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How to Build a Beersbee Set
|
1. Making the Poles
1-1. Purchase two 10 ft (3.0 m) lengths of 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) PVC pipe.
Find the PVC pipe in the plumbing section of a home improvement center. A diameter of 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) is ideal so that the poles can be easily hammered into the ground as well as support a bottle or can.
The 1.5 in (3.8 cm) diameter PVC pipe will be a little less sturdy than the 2 in (5.1 cm) pipe. A sturdier pipe makes the game a little harder since it will be harder to knock off the bottle.
1-2. Measure and mark each length of PVC pipe at 6 ft (1.8 m).
Use a measuring tape to measure 6 ft (1.8 m) from 1 end of the PVC pipe. Make a line with a permanent marker.
This will be your cut line for the bottom of the pole.
1-3. Cut each length of PVC pipe at a 45-degree angle away from the cut line.
Place the blade of a hacksaw or handheld saw against the cut line you marked and tilt it at an approximately 45-degree angle towards the shorter side of the line. Carefully saw through the PVC pipe all the way so you are left with a 6 ft (1.8 m) section that has a pointed tip and another 4 ft (1.2 m) section.
The angled tip makes it so you can hammer the poles into the ground.
1-4. Wrap duct tape over the flat ends of the poles.
Cover the end of each pole in a couple pieces of duct tape so that the hole is covered. Then, wrap a strip horizontally around the side of the end a few times to secure piece covering the hole.
The duct tape helps a can or bottle sit on top of the poles more easily.
If you don’t have duct tape, you could also use electrical tape.
2. Setting the Game Up
2-1. Lay the poles about 30–40 ft (9.1–12.2 m) apart.
Lay 1 pole on the ground at the end of a yard or field. Walk 30-40 steps, 1 foot in front of the other, to the other side of the field or lawn and lay the other pole down.
You can increase or decrease the distance between poles depending on your preference and the players’ level of skill. Anything less than about 25 ft (7.6 m), however, may feel a little close.
2-2. Hammer the poles into the ground with a rubber mallet.
Hold the pole as straight up-and-down as possible, with the pointed side facing towards the ground. Pound the flat end of the pole a few times with a rubber mallet until the pole is securely in the ground and it stands up straight on its own.
If you don’t have a rubber mallet, you can improvise with something else flat. For example, a wooden board, a rock, or even the lid of a plastic cooler could work in a pinch.
2-3. Set an empty bottle or can on top of each pole.
Be careful not to bump into the pole after setting up the cans!
To keep the game fair, you'll want to use either 2 cans or 2 bottles, but not 1 of each.
If you use cans, make sure you have a supply of extras ready to use as replacements. They will get crushed easily while you play the game.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:18",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the Poles\\n1-1. Purchase two 10 ft (3.0 m) lengths of 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) PVC pipe.\\nFind the PVC pipe in the plumbing section of a home improvement center. A diameter of 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) is ideal so that the poles can be easily hammered into the ground as well as support a bottle or can.\\nThe 1.5 in (3.8 cm) diameter PVC pipe will be a little less sturdy than the 2 in (5.1 cm) pipe. A sturdier pipe makes the game a little harder since it will be harder to knock off the bottle.\\n1-2. Measure and mark each length of PVC pipe at 6 ft (1.8 m).\\nUse a measuring tape to measure 6 ft (1.8 m) from 1 end of the PVC pipe. Make a line with a permanent marker.\\nThis will be your cut line for the bottom of the pole.\\n1-3. Cut each length of PVC pipe at a 45-degree angle away from the cut line.\\nPlace the blade of a hacksaw or handheld saw against the cut line you marked and tilt it at an approximately 45-degree angle towards the shorter side of the line. Carefully saw through the PVC pipe all the way so you are left with a 6 ft (1.8 m) section that has a pointed tip and another 4 ft (1.2 m) section.\\nThe angled tip makes it so you can hammer the poles into the ground.\\n1-4. Wrap duct tape over the flat ends of the poles.\\nCover the end of each pole in a couple pieces of duct tape so that the hole is covered. Then, wrap a strip horizontally around the side of the end a few times to secure piece covering the hole.\\nThe duct tape helps a can or bottle sit on top of the poles more easily.\\nIf you don’t have duct tape, you could also use electrical tape.\\n2. Setting the Game Up\\n2-1. Lay the poles about 30–40 ft (9.1–12.2 m) apart.\\nLay 1 pole on the ground at the end of a yard or field. Walk 30-40 steps, 1 foot in front of the other, to the other side of the field or lawn and lay the other pole down.\\nYou can increase or decrease the distance between poles depending on your preference and the players’ level of skill. Anything less than about 25 ft (7.6 m), however, may feel a little close.\\n2-2. Hammer the poles into the ground with a rubber mallet.\\nHold the pole as straight up-and-down as possible, with the pointed side facing towards the ground. Pound the flat end of the pole a few times with a rubber mallet until the pole is securely in the ground and it stands up straight on its own.\\nIf you don’t have a rubber mallet, you can improvise with something else flat. For example, a wooden board, a rock, or even the lid of a plastic cooler could work in a pinch.\\n2-3. Set an empty bottle or can on top of each pole.\\nBe careful not to bump into the pole after setting up the cans!\\nTo keep the game fair, you'll want to use either 2 cans or 2 bottles, but not 1 of each.\\nIf you use cans, make sure you have a supply of extras ready to use as replacements. They will get crushed easily while you play the game.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"\\\"Beersbee,\\\" also known as \\\"Polish Horseshoes,\\\" is a frisbee tossing game that can be played in a backyard or on any grass lawn. Teams of 2 players toss a frisbee back and forth, trying to knock a bottle or can off of the opposing team's pole to accumulate points. It’s an easy game to make and play. All you need is some basic supplies that you can find at a home improvement store and you’ll be playing beersbee in no time!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the Poles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase two 10 ft (3.0 m) lengths of 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) PVC pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Find the PVC pipe in the plumbing section of a home improvement center. A diameter of 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) is ideal so that the poles can be easily hammered into the ground as well as support a bottle or can.\\nThe 1.5 in (3.8 cm) diameter PVC pipe will be a little less sturdy than the 2 in (5.1 cm) pipe. A sturdier pipe makes the game a little harder since it will be harder to knock off the bottle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and mark each length of PVC pipe at 6 ft (1.8 m).\", \"描述\": \"Use a measuring tape to measure 6 ft (1.8 m) from 1 end of the PVC pipe. Make a line with a permanent marker.\\nThis will be your cut line for the bottom of the pole.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut each length of PVC pipe at a 45-degree angle away from the cut line.\", \"描述\": \"Place the blade of a hacksaw or handheld saw against the cut line you marked and tilt it at an approximately 45-degree angle towards the shorter side of the line. Carefully saw through the PVC pipe all the way so you are left with a 6 ft (1.8 m) section that has a pointed tip and another 4 ft (1.2 m) section.\\nThe angled tip makes it so you can hammer the poles into the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wrap duct tape over the flat ends of the poles.\", \"描述\": \"Cover the end of each pole in a couple pieces of duct tape so that the hole is covered. Then, wrap a strip horizontally around the side of the end a few times to secure piece covering the hole.\\nThe duct tape helps a can or bottle sit on top of the poles more easily.\\nIf you don’t have duct tape, you could also use electrical tape.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Setting the Game Up\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay the poles about 30–40 ft (9.1–12.2 m) apart.\", \"描述\": \"Lay 1 pole on the ground at the end of a yard or field. Walk 30-40 steps, 1 foot in front of the other, to the other side of the field or lawn and lay the other pole down.\\nYou can increase or decrease the distance between poles depending on your preference and the players’ level of skill. Anything less than about 25 ft (7.6 m), however, may feel a little close.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hammer the poles into the ground with a rubber mallet.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the pole as straight up-and-down as possible, with the pointed side facing towards the ground. Pound the flat end of the pole a few times with a rubber mallet until the pole is securely in the ground and it stands up straight on its own.\\nIf you don’t have a rubber mallet, you can improvise with something else flat. For example, a wooden board, a rock, or even the lid of a plastic cooler could work in a pinch.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set an empty bottle or can on top of each pole.\", \"描述\": \"Be careful not to bump into the pole after setting up the cans!\\nTo keep the game fair, you'll want to use either 2 cans or 2 bottles, but not 1 of each.\\nIf you use cans, make sure you have a supply of extras ready to use as replacements. They will get crushed easily while you play the game.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,220 |
How to Build a Beginner Yu Gi Oh! Deck
|
1. Steps
1-1. Know the rules of Yu-Gi-Oh.
If you aren't very familiar with them, keep the guidebook close by to refer to when you duel or build a deck.
1-2. Pick a theme for your deck (i.e. Elemental HEROs, Dinosaur, Pyro, Exodia).
Decks focused around a central archetype or theme will be more consistent and have access to good support, making you more likely to win. Do research to see what kinds of cards are good, or try to find cards you have lying around that work with each other. You won't be able to use archetypes, or cards with the same names, right off the bat, but you can use cards centered around an attribute or type, like "Allure of Darkness" or "Onslaught of the Fire Kings" to support a deck with a majority of monsters of one attribute or otherwise. Also keep in mind that some cards, like "Mystical Space Typhoon" or "Raigeki" can be used in every deck with success.
1-3. Find the cards you need.
Look through your collection and pick out cards belonging to or supporting your archetype, or research good cards online. If you need, buy or trade for some cards.
1-4. Pick some monster cards (around 15-20) that correlate with your deck theme.
(i.e. Dinosaur monsters for a dinosaur deck.) Use effect monsters with helpful effects, such as Man-Eater Bug and Neo-Spacian Grand Mole, as well as some with good attack. Good attack stats for monsters below level 4 are 1600-1800, monsters level 5-6 should have at least 2300, and ones with levels 7 or higher should have at least 2500. Don't include more than 4 or 5 high level monsters in your deck, unless you can reliably special summon them. Also, remember that attack points are not everything. A weak monster can have devastating effects, and a powerful monster could be easily destroyed by a spell or trap.
1-5. Pick spell cards (10-15 cards) that correlate with your deck theme.
Ensure you pick power-ups for your type of monster. If you don't have a specific type, then choose general ones. You should have good sources of spell/trap destruction, monster destruction, searching, and summoning.
1-6. Pick trap cards (8-12 cards) that will help you.
It may be harder to find trap cards that support your deck, so you can just go for generic traps. You should have good sources of attack protection, effect negation, summon negation, and/or spell/trap negation, depending on your deck type.
1-7. Build an Extra Deck.
The Extra deck can contain up to 15 cards, and you should fill it if possible. Add your archetype support cards, then get good generic Xyz monsters. They will work in almost any deck, as long as you have at least 3 monsters of the same level. Include Synchro monsters if you have a tuner. Fusion monsters are for more specialized decks.
1-8. If you're building this deck for tournaments, you'll want a side deck.
A side deck consists of up to 15 cards which are kept separate from your main deck. Between each duel in a Match (best out of three duels) you can swap cards between your Side and Main/Extra deck, depending on what you are facing. Side in cards that will help a lot against certain matchups, but are too situational to put in your Main deck. If you aren't planning to play in tournaments, you won't need to build a side deck.
1-9. Review your deck and see if it fits well.
Make sure all the cards work well together and you will not get too many dead draws. Try it out against a friend in a duel to see how it runs. If there are cards that help a lot, try to maximize them while cutting out unhelpful, hard-to-use cards.
1-10. Remember to try out new combinations of cards, as you could come up with something good.
Also, don't give up if it doesn't seem to work. Change some cards and try again.
Tips
Don't have too many of one type of card (Spell, Trap, Monster).
Approximately half of your deck should be spells and traps. The other half should be monsters.
A deck must contain between 40 and 60 cards. Your deck should be 40 cards, or as close to 40 as possible. The limit is 42. With too many cards, it will be harder to draw what you actually need.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:18",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Know the rules of Yu-Gi-Oh.\\nIf you aren't very familiar with them, keep the guidebook close by to refer to when you duel or build a deck.\\n1-2. Pick a theme for your deck (i.e. Elemental HEROs, Dinosaur, Pyro, Exodia).\\nDecks focused around a central archetype or theme will be more consistent and have access to good support, making you more likely to win. Do research to see what kinds of cards are good, or try to find cards you have lying around that work with each other. You won't be able to use archetypes, or cards with the same names, right off the bat, but you can use cards centered around an attribute or type, like \\\"Allure of Darkness\\\" or \\\"Onslaught of the Fire Kings\\\" to support a deck with a majority of monsters of one attribute or otherwise. Also keep in mind that some cards, like \\\"Mystical Space Typhoon\\\" or \\\"Raigeki\\\" can be used in every deck with success.\\n1-3. Find the cards you need.\\nLook through your collection and pick out cards belonging to or supporting your archetype, or research good cards online. If you need, buy or trade for some cards.\\n1-4. Pick some monster cards (around 15-20) that correlate with your deck theme.\\n(i.e. Dinosaur monsters for a dinosaur deck.) Use effect monsters with helpful effects, such as Man-Eater Bug and Neo-Spacian Grand Mole, as well as some with good attack. Good attack stats for monsters below level 4 are 1600-1800, monsters level 5-6 should have at least 2300, and ones with levels 7 or higher should have at least 2500. Don't include more than 4 or 5 high level monsters in your deck, unless you can reliably special summon them. Also, remember that attack points are not everything. A weak monster can have devastating effects, and a powerful monster could be easily destroyed by a spell or trap.\\n1-5. Pick spell cards (10-15 cards) that correlate with your deck theme.\\nEnsure you pick power-ups for your type of monster. If you don't have a specific type, then choose general ones. You should have good sources of spell/trap destruction, monster destruction, searching, and summoning.\\n1-6. Pick trap cards (8-12 cards) that will help you.\\nIt may be harder to find trap cards that support your deck, so you can just go for generic traps. You should have good sources of attack protection, effect negation, summon negation, and/or spell/trap negation, depending on your deck type.\\n1-7. Build an Extra Deck.\\nThe Extra deck can contain up to 15 cards, and you should fill it if possible. Add your archetype support cards, then get good generic Xyz monsters. They will work in almost any deck, as long as you have at least 3 monsters of the same level. Include Synchro monsters if you have a tuner. Fusion monsters are for more specialized decks.\\n1-8. If you're building this deck for tournaments, you'll want a side deck.\\nA side deck consists of up to 15 cards which are kept separate from your main deck. Between each duel in a Match (best out of three duels) you can swap cards between your Side and Main/Extra deck, depending on what you are facing. Side in cards that will help a lot against certain matchups, but are too situational to put in your Main deck. If you aren't planning to play in tournaments, you won't need to build a side deck.\\n1-9. Review your deck and see if it fits well.\\nMake sure all the cards work well together and you will not get too many dead draws. Try it out against a friend in a duel to see how it runs. If there are cards that help a lot, try to maximize them while cutting out unhelpful, hard-to-use cards.\\n1-10. Remember to try out new combinations of cards, as you could come up with something good.\\nAlso, don't give up if it doesn't seem to work. Change some cards and try again.\\nTips\\nDon't have too many of one type of card (Spell, Trap, Monster).\\nApproximately half of your deck should be spells and traps. The other half should be monsters.\\nA deck must contain between 40 and 60 cards. Your deck should be 40 cards, or as close to 40 as possible. The limit is 42. With too many cards, it will be harder to draw what you actually need.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Yu-Gi-Oh! is a great yet difficult game with an overwhelming choice of cards. Here's some deck building tips for people just starting to get into the game. With these steps, you can create a powerful deck in no time.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know the rules of Yu-Gi-Oh.\", \"描述\": \"If you aren't very familiar with them, keep the guidebook close by to refer to when you duel or build a deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick a theme for your deck (i.e. Elemental HEROs, Dinosaur, Pyro, Exodia).\", \"描述\": \"Decks focused around a central archetype or theme will be more consistent and have access to good support, making you more likely to win. Do research to see what kinds of cards are good, or try to find cards you have lying around that work with each other. You won't be able to use archetypes, or cards with the same names, right off the bat, but you can use cards centered around an attribute or type, like \\\"Allure of Darkness\\\" or \\\"Onslaught of the Fire Kings\\\" to support a deck with a majority of monsters of one attribute or otherwise. Also keep in mind that some cards, like \\\"Mystical Space Typhoon\\\" or \\\"Raigeki\\\" can be used in every deck with success.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find the cards you need.\", \"描述\": \"Look through your collection and pick out cards belonging to or supporting your archetype, or research good cards online. If you need, buy or trade for some cards.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pick some monster cards (around 15-20) that correlate with your deck theme.\", \"描述\": \"(i.e. Dinosaur monsters for a dinosaur deck.) Use effect monsters with helpful effects, such as Man-Eater Bug and Neo-Spacian Grand Mole, as well as some with good attack. Good attack stats for monsters below level 4 are 1600-1800, monsters level 5-6 should have at least 2300, and ones with levels 7 or higher should have at least 2500. Don't include more than 4 or 5 high level monsters in your deck, unless you can reliably special summon them. Also, remember that attack points are not everything. A weak monster can have devastating effects, and a powerful monster could be easily destroyed by a spell or trap.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pick spell cards (10-15 cards) that correlate with your deck theme.\", \"描述\": \"Ensure you pick power-ups for your type of monster. If you don't have a specific type, then choose general ones. You should have good sources of spell/trap destruction, monster destruction, searching, and summoning.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pick trap cards (8-12 cards) that will help you.\", \"描述\": \"It may be harder to find trap cards that support your deck, so you can just go for generic traps. You should have good sources of attack protection, effect negation, summon negation, and/or spell/trap negation, depending on your deck type.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Build an Extra Deck.\", \"描述\": \"The Extra deck can contain up to 15 cards, and you should fill it if possible. Add your archetype support cards, then get good generic Xyz monsters. They will work in almost any deck, as long as you have at least 3 monsters of the same level. Include Synchro monsters if you have a tuner. Fusion monsters are for more specialized decks.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"If you're building this deck for tournaments, you'll want a side deck.\", \"描述\": \"A side deck consists of up to 15 cards which are kept separate from your main deck. Between each duel in a Match (best out of three duels) you can swap cards between your Side and Main/Extra deck, depending on what you are facing. Side in cards that will help a lot against certain matchups, but are too situational to put in your Main deck. If you aren't planning to play in tournaments, you won't need to build a side deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Review your deck and see if it fits well.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure all the cards work well together and you will not get too many dead draws. Try it out against a friend in a duel to see how it runs. If there are cards that help a lot, try to maximize them while cutting out unhelpful, hard-to-use cards.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Remember to try out new combinations of cards, as you could come up with something good.\", \"描述\": \"Also, don't give up if it doesn't seem to work. Change some cards and try again.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Don't have too many of one type of card (Spell, Trap, Monster).\\n\", \"Approximately half of your deck should be spells and traps. The other half should be monsters.\\n\", \"A deck must contain between 40 and 60 cards. Your deck should be 40 cards, or as close to 40 as possible. The limit is 42. With too many cards, it will be harder to draw what you actually need.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,221 |
How to Build a Berm
|
1. Building a Berm for Your Garden
1-1. Plan the shape of your berm.
A berm looks most natural when it follows a curve or sinuous shape, blending into other curves in the landscape. As a guideline, keep the berm about 4 to 6 times as long as it is wide.
1-2. Determine the slope and height.
To minimize problems with erosion, water runoff, and mowing difficulty, keep the maximum gradient below 5:1 (five times as wide as it is tall). 4:1 is possible but risky, and anything steeper requires specialized plants and erosion control. Most berms in home gardens are no taller than 24 inches (61 cm).
An asymmetric appearance improves the aesthetics, with an off-center peak and a variety of slopes along the berm's length.
1-3. Consider the drainage.
Berms can act as miniature dams, altering the water flow in your garden. You may need to dig swales between the berms, build a culvert running through the berm, or regrade your garden. You may want to discuss this with a professional landscaper if you are building a tall berm (especially above 24 inches / 61 cm), or if you live in a rainy climate.
A flat top reduces runoff and provides more water to plants growing on the side of the berm.
While building your berm, do your best to avoid compacting the soil at the base with heavy equipment. If it's already compacted, loosen the soil by digging 8 inches (20 cm) deep to improve drainage.
1-4. Break up the soil lightly.
Dig into the surface of the area along the path of your berm. This creates a stronger bond with the next layer of soil.
1-5. Build the base from affordable materials .
With a shovel or bobcat, pile on fill dirt, compacting it periodically. Shape it according to the layout you decided on, except 1 ft (30 cm) smaller on all sides. Rake it smooth and get all proportions as exact as possible.
Well-compacted clay soil is recommended for steep or tall berms. Loam will typically collapse at slopes steeper than 35%.
Gravel is cheaper, but the soil tends to wash through it — and it is not compliant with some local codes. If you use it, cover it with at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of compacted clay.
1-6. Add the topsoil layer.
Spread out a layer of topsoil over the entire berm, mixing it with the top 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) of clay. Pile on more topsoil to form a layer 1 ft (30 cm) thick.
1-7. Compact the soil lightly.
Roll an empty lawn roller over the top layer of soil, or tamp it down with your feet or a board. The berm will settle over time as water seeps through it, but a light compaction should be enough to minimize erosion.
1-8. Plant on the surface.
Establish a lawn over the berm, along with shrubs and trees in a pattern that doesn't interfere with mowing or walking. Add mulch while the plants are establishing roots to prevent erosion.
2. Building a Berm for Mountain Biking
2-1. Plan the shape and location of the berm.
Also called an inslope turn, a berm is a turn with a surface tilted toward the inside of the curve, helping bikers navigate it smoothly without losing speed. Whether your berm is a slight curve or a full semicircle, keep the radius between 10 and 15 feet (3–45.m). The slope of the berm can be as gentle as a 7% slope, but steep downhill turns require a steeper angle.
Building the turn around a tree, large rock, or other obstacle discourages bikers from short-cutting the turn. Make sure the obstacle doesn't block line of sight, and that it's not close enough to hit someone's head when they lean into the turn.
For your first berm, avoid a sideslope (slope between the two sides of the turn) steeper than a 4:1 gradient (25%). Steeper slopes require a turning platform, which takes a lot more work.
2-2. Clear all organic material from the area.
This includes topsoil, which will decompose and crumble if used on your trail. Build your berm with bare, mineral soil only.
2-3. Build a retaining wall if necessary
Steep berms and berms built onto steep slopes require a retaining wall to prevent collapse. This is a big job, so consider working with experienced builders, or building a berm with a gentle slope instead (10 degrees, for instance). There are two approaches if you decide to go this route:
Flat, square stones weighing at least 50 lbs (23 kg) make the best retaining walls. Lock the stones together with smaller rocks and "deadmen" logs extending into the bank to prevent wobbling, then backfill each layer with small rocks and mineral soil.
Wooden retaining walls take less labor, but rot over time. Use pressure treated wood rated for ground contact ("heavy duty" or "extreme" ground contact in wet climates). Lay deadmen logs into the bank, attached to the wall with notched log cabin construction.
2-4. Tamp down a thin layer of dirt.
To support mountain biking without eroding, the berm must be extra sturdy. Lay down 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) along the turn in the trail, and compact it as hard as you can using a McLeod rake or hoe. Trying to compact the whole pile of dirt at once will create a weak berm that won't hold together for long.
The soil must compact and cohere well. If it is too loose and sandy, mix in clay fill.
Powered compaction tools are difficult to use for this project, since they flatten the curve of the riding surface.
2-5. Direct water off the trail.
As you build, incorporate a wide drain at the downhill edge of the turn to direct water off the trail surface. Add a slight grade in the opposite direction before and after your turn for the same reason.
2-6. Build the berm up in layers.
Rough up the surface of the berm a little, add another 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) of soil, and compact again. Repeat this to build the berm to the desired shape and height.
The rough surface helps the layers attach to each other, improving strength. A light sprinkle of water also helps.
You can incorporate small rocks in the lower layers, but the top surface should be pure mineral soil only.
2-7. Perfect the surface.
Once your berm has reached the desired height and shape, make the surface as smooth as possible, with a constant slope. Give the berm a test ride and make adjustments until the turn feels smooth. For instance, if the turn feels too abrupt, you may need a wider radius, or a longer lead up into the berm.
Tips
The mountain bike instruction describe a traditional berm built up above the surface, but it's also possible to create a sloped turn by digging into the ground. This takes less effort, but it can be hard to achieve a smooth transition between the turn and the flat trail.[8]
X
Research source
Starter fertilizer or rooting hormones can help new sod establish roots.
Berms can help block sound. For best results, build your berm with a gentle slope and cover it in bark mulch instead of grass. A short wall on top (less than half the height of the berm) also helps.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Berm for Your Garden\\n1-1. Plan the shape of your berm.\\nA berm looks most natural when it follows a curve or sinuous shape, blending into other curves in the landscape. As a guideline, keep the berm about 4 to 6 times as long as it is wide.\\n1-2. Determine the slope and height.\\nTo minimize problems with erosion, water runoff, and mowing difficulty, keep the maximum gradient below 5:1 (five times as wide as it is tall). 4:1 is possible but risky, and anything steeper requires specialized plants and erosion control. Most berms in home gardens are no taller than 24 inches (61 cm).\\nAn asymmetric appearance improves the aesthetics, with an off-center peak and a variety of slopes along the berm's length.\\n1-3. Consider the drainage.\\nBerms can act as miniature dams, altering the water flow in your garden. You may need to dig swales between the berms, build a culvert running through the berm, or regrade your garden. You may want to discuss this with a professional landscaper if you are building a tall berm (especially above 24 inches / 61 cm), or if you live in a rainy climate.\\nA flat top reduces runoff and provides more water to plants growing on the side of the berm.\\nWhile building your berm, do your best to avoid compacting the soil at the base with heavy equipment. If it's already compacted, loosen the soil by digging 8 inches (20 cm) deep to improve drainage.\\n1-4. Break up the soil lightly.\\nDig into the surface of the area along the path of your berm. This creates a stronger bond with the next layer of soil.\\n1-5. Build the base from affordable materials .\\nWith a shovel or bobcat, pile on fill dirt, compacting it periodically. Shape it according to the layout you decided on, except 1 ft (30 cm) smaller on all sides. Rake it smooth and get all proportions as exact as possible.\\nWell-compacted clay soil is recommended for steep or tall berms. Loam will typically collapse at slopes steeper than 35%.\\nGravel is cheaper, but the soil tends to wash through it — and it is not compliant with some local codes. If you use it, cover it with at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of compacted clay.\\n1-6. Add the topsoil layer.\\nSpread out a layer of topsoil over the entire berm, mixing it with the top 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) of clay. Pile on more topsoil to form a layer 1 ft (30 cm) thick.\\n1-7. Compact the soil lightly.\\nRoll an empty lawn roller over the top layer of soil, or tamp it down with your feet or a board. The berm will settle over time as water seeps through it, but a light compaction should be enough to minimize erosion.\\n1-8. Plant on the surface.\\nEstablish a lawn over the berm, along with shrubs and trees in a pattern that doesn't interfere with mowing or walking. Add mulch while the plants are establishing roots to prevent erosion.\\n2. Building a Berm for Mountain Biking\\n2-1. Plan the shape and location of the berm.\\nAlso called an inslope turn, a berm is a turn with a surface tilted toward the inside of the curve, helping bikers navigate it smoothly without losing speed. Whether your berm is a slight curve or a full semicircle, keep the radius between 10 and 15 feet (3–45.m). The slope of the berm can be as gentle as a 7% slope, but steep downhill turns require a steeper angle.\\nBuilding the turn around a tree, large rock, or other obstacle discourages bikers from short-cutting the turn. Make sure the obstacle doesn't block line of sight, and that it's not close enough to hit someone's head when they lean into the turn.\\nFor your first berm, avoid a sideslope (slope between the two sides of the turn) steeper than a 4:1 gradient (25%). Steeper slopes require a turning platform, which takes a lot more work.\\n2-2. Clear all organic material from the area.\\nThis includes topsoil, which will decompose and crumble if used on your trail. Build your berm with bare, mineral soil only.\\n2-3. Build a retaining wall if necessary\\nSteep berms and berms built onto steep slopes require a retaining wall to prevent collapse. This is a big job, so consider working with experienced builders, or building a berm with a gentle slope instead (10 degrees, for instance). There are two approaches if you decide to go this route:\\nFlat, square stones weighing at least 50 lbs (23 kg) make the best retaining walls. Lock the stones together with smaller rocks and \\\"deadmen\\\" logs extending into the bank to prevent wobbling, then backfill each layer with small rocks and mineral soil.\\nWooden retaining walls take less labor, but rot over time. Use pressure treated wood rated for ground contact (\\\"heavy duty\\\" or \\\"extreme\\\" ground contact in wet climates). Lay deadmen logs into the bank, attached to the wall with notched log cabin construction.\\n2-4. Tamp down a thin layer of dirt.\\nTo support mountain biking without eroding, the berm must be extra sturdy. Lay down 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) along the turn in the trail, and compact it as hard as you can using a McLeod rake or hoe. Trying to compact the whole pile of dirt at once will create a weak berm that won't hold together for long.\\nThe soil must compact and cohere well. If it is too loose and sandy, mix in clay fill.\\nPowered compaction tools are difficult to use for this project, since they flatten the curve of the riding surface.\\n2-5. Direct water off the trail.\\nAs you build, incorporate a wide drain at the downhill edge of the turn to direct water off the trail surface. Add a slight grade in the opposite direction before and after your turn for the same reason.\\n2-6. Build the berm up in layers.\\nRough up the surface of the berm a little, add another 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) of soil, and compact again. Repeat this to build the berm to the desired shape and height.\\nThe rough surface helps the layers attach to each other, improving strength. A light sprinkle of water also helps.\\nYou can incorporate small rocks in the lower layers, but the top surface should be pure mineral soil only.\\n2-7. Perfect the surface.\\nOnce your berm has reached the desired height and shape, make the surface as smooth as possible, with a constant slope. Give the berm a test ride and make adjustments until the turn feels smooth. For instance, if the turn feels too abrupt, you may need a wider radius, or a longer lead up into the berm.\\nTips\\nThe mountain bike instruction describe a traditional berm built up above the surface, but it's also possible to create a sloped turn by digging into the ground. This takes less effort, but it can be hard to achieve a smooth transition between the turn and the flat trail.[8]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nStarter fertilizer or rooting hormones can help new sod establish roots.\\nBerms can help block sound. For best results, build your berm with a gentle slope and cover it in bark mulch instead of grass. A short wall on top (less than half the height of the berm) also helps.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Berms are raised mounds of earth, usually forming a long ridge. These attractive landscaping features provide more soil depth for planting and help block sound and wind. Mountain bikers build heavy-duty berms to create banked turns.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Berm for Your Garden\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan the shape of your berm.\", \"描述\": \"A berm looks most natural when it follows a curve or sinuous shape, blending into other curves in the landscape. As a guideline, keep the berm about 4 to 6 times as long as it is wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine the slope and height.\", \"描述\": \"To minimize problems with erosion, water runoff, and mowing difficulty, keep the maximum gradient below 5:1 (five times as wide as it is tall). 4:1 is possible but risky, and anything steeper requires specialized plants and erosion control. Most berms in home gardens are no taller than 24 inches (61 cm).\\nAn asymmetric appearance improves the aesthetics, with an off-center peak and a variety of slopes along the berm's length.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider the drainage.\", \"描述\": \"Berms can act as miniature dams, altering the water flow in your garden. You may need to dig swales between the berms, build a culvert running through the berm, or regrade your garden. You may want to discuss this with a professional landscaper if you are building a tall berm (especially above 24 inches / 61 cm), or if you live in a rainy climate.\\nA flat top reduces runoff and provides more water to plants growing on the side of the berm.\\nWhile building your berm, do your best to avoid compacting the soil at the base with heavy equipment. If it's already compacted, loosen the soil by digging 8 inches (20 cm) deep to improve drainage.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Break up the soil lightly.\", \"描述\": \"Dig into the surface of the area along the path of your berm. This creates a stronger bond with the next layer of soil.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build the base from affordable materials .\", \"描述\": \"With a shovel or bobcat, pile on fill dirt, compacting it periodically. Shape it according to the layout you decided on, except 1 ft (30 cm) smaller on all sides. Rake it smooth and get all proportions as exact as possible.\\nWell-compacted clay soil is recommended for steep or tall berms. Loam will typically collapse at slopes steeper than 35%.\\nGravel is cheaper, but the soil tends to wash through it — and it is not compliant with some local codes. If you use it, cover it with at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of compacted clay.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add the topsoil layer.\", \"描述\": \"Spread out a layer of topsoil over the entire berm, mixing it with the top 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) of clay. Pile on more topsoil to form a layer 1 ft (30 cm) thick.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Compact the soil lightly.\", \"描述\": \"Roll an empty lawn roller over the top layer of soil, or tamp it down with your feet or a board. The berm will settle over time as water seeps through it, but a light compaction should be enough to minimize erosion.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Plant on the surface.\", \"描述\": \"Establish a lawn over the berm, along with shrubs and trees in a pattern that doesn't interfere with mowing or walking. Add mulch while the plants are establishing roots to prevent erosion.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Berm for Mountain Biking\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan the shape and location of the berm.\", \"描述\": \"Also called an inslope turn, a berm is a turn with a surface tilted toward the inside of the curve, helping bikers navigate it smoothly without losing speed. Whether your berm is a slight curve or a full semicircle, keep the radius between 10 and 15 feet (3–45.m). The slope of the berm can be as gentle as a 7% slope, but steep downhill turns require a steeper angle.\\nBuilding the turn around a tree, large rock, or other obstacle discourages bikers from short-cutting the turn. Make sure the obstacle doesn't block line of sight, and that it's not close enough to hit someone's head when they lean into the turn.\\nFor your first berm, avoid a sideslope (slope between the two sides of the turn) steeper than a 4:1 gradient (25%). Steeper slopes require a turning platform, which takes a lot more work.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Clear all organic material from the area.\", \"描述\": \"This includes topsoil, which will decompose and crumble if used on your trail. Build your berm with bare, mineral soil only.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a retaining wall if necessary\", \"描述\": \"Steep berms and berms built onto steep slopes require a retaining wall to prevent collapse. This is a big job, so consider working with experienced builders, or building a berm with a gentle slope instead (10 degrees, for instance). There are two approaches if you decide to go this route:\\nFlat, square stones weighing at least 50 lbs (23 kg) make the best retaining walls. Lock the stones together with smaller rocks and \\\"deadmen\\\" logs extending into the bank to prevent wobbling, then backfill each layer with small rocks and mineral soil.\\nWooden retaining walls take less labor, but rot over time. Use pressure treated wood rated for ground contact (\\\"heavy duty\\\" or \\\"extreme\\\" ground contact in wet climates). Lay deadmen logs into the bank, attached to the wall with notched log cabin construction.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tamp down a thin layer of dirt.\", \"描述\": \"To support mountain biking without eroding, the berm must be extra sturdy. Lay down 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) along the turn in the trail, and compact it as hard as you can using a McLeod rake or hoe. Trying to compact the whole pile of dirt at once will create a weak berm that won't hold together for long.\\nThe soil must compact and cohere well. If it is too loose and sandy, mix in clay fill.\\nPowered compaction tools are difficult to use for this project, since they flatten the curve of the riding surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Direct water off the trail.\", \"描述\": \"As you build, incorporate a wide drain at the downhill edge of the turn to direct water off the trail surface. Add a slight grade in the opposite direction before and after your turn for the same reason.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build the berm up in layers.\", \"描述\": \"Rough up the surface of the berm a little, add another 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) of soil, and compact again. Repeat this to build the berm to the desired shape and height.\\nThe rough surface helps the layers attach to each other, improving strength. A light sprinkle of water also helps.\\nYou can incorporate small rocks in the lower layers, but the top surface should be pure mineral soil only.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Perfect the surface.\", \"描述\": \"Once your berm has reached the desired height and shape, make the surface as smooth as possible, with a constant slope. Give the berm a test ride and make adjustments until the turn feels smooth. For instance, if the turn feels too abrupt, you may need a wider radius, or a longer lead up into the berm.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The mountain bike instruction describe a traditional berm built up above the surface, but it's also possible to create a sloped turn by digging into the ground. This takes less effort, but it can be hard to achieve a smooth transition between the turn and the flat trail.[8]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Starter fertilizer or rooting hormones can help new sod establish roots.\\n\", \"Berms can help block sound. For best results, build your berm with a gentle slope and cover it in bark mulch instead of grass. A short wall on top (less than half the height of the berm) also helps.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,222 |
How to Build a Bicycle Cargo Trailer
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1. Constructing the Frame
1-1. Sketch a plan of the trailer with measurements.
Think about what you plan to carry and how big the trailer needs to be to carry it. Draw a sketch of the outline of the trailer and write down the length and width.
You will need to have a pair of matching bicycle wheels for the trailer already so you can use them to space the side pieces of the frame after you cut all the pieces to size.
For example, if you have a bin of some kind that you want to be able to tow, you can measure the bin and make the trailer at least large enough to hold it. If you want to haul a plastic tub that is 24 in (61 cm) by 18 in (46 cm) big, you could make the trailer about 26 in (66 cm) long by 20 in (51 cm) wide.
An example of dimensions you can use if you don’t have a specific size in mind is 32 in (81 cm) long by 22 in (56 cm) wide. This will give you a manageable trailer with plenty of room to haul stuff like groceries or tools.
1-2. Cut 6 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of lumber for the frame.
Use a power saw or hand saw to cut 2 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of lumber to the width you want the trailer to be for the front and back of the frame. Cut 4 more 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of lumber to the length you want the trailer to be for the sides of the frame, minus 2 in (5.1 cm) to account for the front and back pieces that will cap the side pieces.
If you don’t have the tools to cut the lumber yourself, get it pre-cut for you at a home improvement center or lumber yard.
Note that you need 4 long pieces for the sides of the frame because the wheels will fit between them.
1-3. Lay out the frame on the ground or a large flat work surface.
Position 2 of the side pieces along with the front and back pieces in a square or rectangle. Place the other 2 side pieces inside the outer frame, parallel to the first 2 side pieces. Space the side pieces so that the bicycle wheels you have fit between them with the axles of the wheels above the wood.
Use any 2 bicycle wheels of the same size for the trailer. Try to find used wheels rather than buying new ones. You can check local thrift shops or used bicycle stores if you don’t already have a pair of wheels.
1-4. Attach the frame pieces together using 90-degree metal brackets and screws.
Place a 90-degree metal bracket in each corner where 2 pieces of lumber meet, on the inside of the frame. Use an electric drill to drive 0.5–0.75 in (1.3–1.9 cm) wood screws through the holes in the brackets into the wood of the frame.
Use metal brackets that have at least 4 screw holes in them for more stability.
This also applies to where the inner side pieces of the frame meet the front and back of the frame. You will need 12 brackets in total; 4 for the outer corners and 8 to hold the inner side pieces of the frame in place.
1-5. Cover the frame with plywood.
Cut a piece of 0.25 in (0.64 cm) thick plywood to the size of the frame. Use a jigsaw or reciprocating saw to make cutouts on each side that are big enough for the wheels to fit through. Attach the plywood to the frame by driving 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) wood screws through the plywood into the pieces of lumber below it every 6 in (15 cm) or so.
It’s best not to use plywood any thicker than 0.25 in (0.64 cm) or you will end up adding a lot of weight to the trailer.
The plywood creates a bed on the frame of the trailer that you can set things on to haul them. You can use ropes or bungee cords to secure items or put some kind of bin on the trailer bed to hold things.
Again, if you don’t have the tools to cut the plywood yourself, just provide the measurements to the staff at a home improvement center or lumber yard and have them cut the trailer bed for you.
2. Attaching the Wheels
2-1. Bend 4 electrical box plate covers to fit on top of the frame’s side pieces.
Place 1 in (2.5 cm) of the short side of an electrical box plate cover into a vice. Hit the exposed metal with a rubber mallet until it is flat against the top of the vise so it’s bent at a 90-degree angle. Repeat this for 3 more electrical box plate covers.
Electrical box plate covers are thin, flat pieces of metal that are normally used to cover electrical boxes. They work well for this because they are easy to bend and work with. You can purchase them at a home improvement center or online.
Once the wheels are bolted to the plates, the plates will be attached by screwing them to the plywood deck and into the innermost side pieces of the frame, so the wheels are held in place and sticking up through the gaps in the plywood deck of the trailer.
2-2. Drill axle holes 0.5 in (1.3 cm) up from the bottom edge of each plate.
Measure 0.5 in (1.3 cm) up from the bottom edge, then measure an even distance towards the center from each side and make a mark. Use an electric drill with a metal drill bit that is the same size as the wheels’ axles to drill a hole in each plate.
Standard electrical box plate covers are at least 4.5 in (11 cm) long, so drilling the holes 0.5 in (1.3 cm) up from the bottom will ensure that the axles have plenty of clearance between them and the wood of the frame.
2-3. Drill screw holes in the metal plates to attach them to the frame.
Use a metal drill bit the size of your wood screws to drill 2 holes in the bent part of each metal plate. Drill 2 holes, offset from the 2 holes at the top, in the side of each metal plate.
The exact positioning of the holes doesn’t matter, so don’t worry about measuring them. Just make sure to offset the side holes enough from the top holes so the screws don’t intersect in the wood.
2-4. Bolt the metal plates onto the wheels.
Slide a metal plate onto each side of the wheels’ axles using the holes you drilled for the axles. Secure the wheels in place on the metal plates by twisting the wheel nuts onto the ends of the axles.
If your wheels don’t have nuts, you can order some bicycle wheel nuts online or buy some at a bike shop.
2-5. Screw the metal plate brackets into place on the side pieces of the frame.
Position the brackets on top of the frame with the wheels sticking through the gaps in the plywood trailer bed. Drive 0.5–0.75 in (1.3–1.9 cm) wood screws through the screw holes you drilled in the plates to attach them to the frame.
It’s easiest to do this if you set the trailer on top of something to raise it up so the wheels clear the ground when you position them. You can use something like cinder blocks or bricks to do this.
3. Adding a Trailer Arm
3-1. Purchase a bicycle trailer arm and hitch.
Browse bike shops or search online for kits that come with the two parts or look for a separate arm and hitch that are compatible. Buy the parts and take them home or order them online ad wait for them to arrive.
This can cost anywhere from about $30-$100 USD if you purchase the parts online.
3-2. Attach the trailer hitch to the rear left wheel hub of your bike.
Remove the nut from the left side of the rear wheel hub on your bicycle. Slide the hitch onto the end of the wheel’s axle, where you just removed the wheel nut from, then reattach the nut to hold everything in place.
This applies to side-mounted trailer hitches that go on the rear wheel hub on the left side of the bike. There are also some trailer hitch and arm kits that attach higher up to the rear seat post that you can try if you prefer.
3-3. Screw the trailer arm onto the left side of the trailer.
Position the arm on the left side of the trailer, against the outer piece of the frame, as far forward as the screw holes will let you put it. Attach it to the frame by driving the provided screws through the holes into the wood of the frame using an electric drill.
Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for any special mounting guidelines.
3-4. Couple the arm and the hitch.
Insert the end of trailer’s arm into the hitch to connect them. Secure the arm in place in the hitch by sliding the pin through the hole in the hitch. Snap any straps in place or tighten any other connecting hardware.
The exact method for coupling the arm and hitch varies depending on the model and brand. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for specific directions about safely securing the trailer to the hitch.
Warnings
This trailer is designed for hauling cargo only.
Never use this homemade trailer for carrying kids.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the Frame\\n1-1. Sketch a plan of the trailer with measurements.\\nThink about what you plan to carry and how big the trailer needs to be to carry it. Draw a sketch of the outline of the trailer and write down the length and width.\\nYou will need to have a pair of matching bicycle wheels for the trailer already so you can use them to space the side pieces of the frame after you cut all the pieces to size.\\nFor example, if you have a bin of some kind that you want to be able to tow, you can measure the bin and make the trailer at least large enough to hold it. If you want to haul a plastic tub that is 24 in (61 cm) by 18 in (46 cm) big, you could make the trailer about 26 in (66 cm) long by 20 in (51 cm) wide.\\nAn example of dimensions you can use if you don’t have a specific size in mind is 32 in (81 cm) long by 22 in (56 cm) wide. This will give you a manageable trailer with plenty of room to haul stuff like groceries or tools.\\n1-2. Cut 6 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of lumber for the frame.\\nUse a power saw or hand saw to cut 2 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of lumber to the width you want the trailer to be for the front and back of the frame. Cut 4 more 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of lumber to the length you want the trailer to be for the sides of the frame, minus 2 in (5.1 cm) to account for the front and back pieces that will cap the side pieces.\\nIf you don’t have the tools to cut the lumber yourself, get it pre-cut for you at a home improvement center or lumber yard.\\nNote that you need 4 long pieces for the sides of the frame because the wheels will fit between them.\\n1-3. Lay out the frame on the ground or a large flat work surface.\\nPosition 2 of the side pieces along with the front and back pieces in a square or rectangle. Place the other 2 side pieces inside the outer frame, parallel to the first 2 side pieces. Space the side pieces so that the bicycle wheels you have fit between them with the axles of the wheels above the wood.\\nUse any 2 bicycle wheels of the same size for the trailer. Try to find used wheels rather than buying new ones. You can check local thrift shops or used bicycle stores if you don’t already have a pair of wheels.\\n1-4. Attach the frame pieces together using 90-degree metal brackets and screws.\\nPlace a 90-degree metal bracket in each corner where 2 pieces of lumber meet, on the inside of the frame. Use an electric drill to drive 0.5–0.75 in (1.3–1.9 cm) wood screws through the holes in the brackets into the wood of the frame.\\nUse metal brackets that have at least 4 screw holes in them for more stability.\\nThis also applies to where the inner side pieces of the frame meet the front and back of the frame. You will need 12 brackets in total; 4 for the outer corners and 8 to hold the inner side pieces of the frame in place.\\n1-5. Cover the frame with plywood.\\nCut a piece of 0.25 in (0.64 cm) thick plywood to the size of the frame. Use a jigsaw or reciprocating saw to make cutouts on each side that are big enough for the wheels to fit through. Attach the plywood to the frame by driving 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) wood screws through the plywood into the pieces of lumber below it every 6 in (15 cm) or so.\\nIt’s best not to use plywood any thicker than 0.25 in (0.64 cm) or you will end up adding a lot of weight to the trailer.\\nThe plywood creates a bed on the frame of the trailer that you can set things on to haul them. You can use ropes or bungee cords to secure items or put some kind of bin on the trailer bed to hold things.\\nAgain, if you don’t have the tools to cut the plywood yourself, just provide the measurements to the staff at a home improvement center or lumber yard and have them cut the trailer bed for you.\\n2. Attaching the Wheels\\n2-1. Bend 4 electrical box plate covers to fit on top of the frame’s side pieces.\\nPlace 1 in (2.5 cm) of the short side of an electrical box plate cover into a vice. Hit the exposed metal with a rubber mallet until it is flat against the top of the vise so it’s bent at a 90-degree angle. Repeat this for 3 more electrical box plate covers.\\nElectrical box plate covers are thin, flat pieces of metal that are normally used to cover electrical boxes. They work well for this because they are easy to bend and work with. You can purchase them at a home improvement center or online.\\nOnce the wheels are bolted to the plates, the plates will be attached by screwing them to the plywood deck and into the innermost side pieces of the frame, so the wheels are held in place and sticking up through the gaps in the plywood deck of the trailer.\\n2-2. Drill axle holes 0.5 in (1.3 cm) up from the bottom edge of each plate.\\nMeasure 0.5 in (1.3 cm) up from the bottom edge, then measure an even distance towards the center from each side and make a mark. Use an electric drill with a metal drill bit that is the same size as the wheels’ axles to drill a hole in each plate.\\nStandard electrical box plate covers are at least 4.5 in (11 cm) long, so drilling the holes 0.5 in (1.3 cm) up from the bottom will ensure that the axles have plenty of clearance between them and the wood of the frame.\\n2-3. Drill screw holes in the metal plates to attach them to the frame.\\nUse a metal drill bit the size of your wood screws to drill 2 holes in the bent part of each metal plate. Drill 2 holes, offset from the 2 holes at the top, in the side of each metal plate.\\nThe exact positioning of the holes doesn’t matter, so don’t worry about measuring them. Just make sure to offset the side holes enough from the top holes so the screws don’t intersect in the wood.\\n2-4. Bolt the metal plates onto the wheels.\\nSlide a metal plate onto each side of the wheels’ axles using the holes you drilled for the axles. Secure the wheels in place on the metal plates by twisting the wheel nuts onto the ends of the axles.\\nIf your wheels don’t have nuts, you can order some bicycle wheel nuts online or buy some at a bike shop.\\n2-5. Screw the metal plate brackets into place on the side pieces of the frame.\\nPosition the brackets on top of the frame with the wheels sticking through the gaps in the plywood trailer bed. Drive 0.5–0.75 in (1.3–1.9 cm) wood screws through the screw holes you drilled in the plates to attach them to the frame.\\nIt’s easiest to do this if you set the trailer on top of something to raise it up so the wheels clear the ground when you position them. You can use something like cinder blocks or bricks to do this.\\n3. Adding a Trailer Arm\\n3-1. Purchase a bicycle trailer arm and hitch.\\nBrowse bike shops or search online for kits that come with the two parts or look for a separate arm and hitch that are compatible. Buy the parts and take them home or order them online ad wait for them to arrive.\\nThis can cost anywhere from about $30-$100 USD if you purchase the parts online.\\n3-2. Attach the trailer hitch to the rear left wheel hub of your bike.\\nRemove the nut from the left side of the rear wheel hub on your bicycle. Slide the hitch onto the end of the wheel’s axle, where you just removed the wheel nut from, then reattach the nut to hold everything in place.\\nThis applies to side-mounted trailer hitches that go on the rear wheel hub on the left side of the bike. There are also some trailer hitch and arm kits that attach higher up to the rear seat post that you can try if you prefer.\\n3-3. Screw the trailer arm onto the left side of the trailer.\\nPosition the arm on the left side of the trailer, against the outer piece of the frame, as far forward as the screw holes will let you put it. Attach it to the frame by driving the provided screws through the holes into the wood of the frame using an electric drill.\\nAlways refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for any special mounting guidelines.\\n3-4. Couple the arm and the hitch.\\nInsert the end of trailer’s arm into the hitch to connect them. Secure the arm in place in the hitch by sliding the pin through the hole in the hitch. Snap any straps in place or tighten any other connecting hardware.\\nThe exact method for coupling the arm and hitch varies depending on the model and brand. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for specific directions about safely securing the trailer to the hitch.\\nWarnings\\nThis trailer is designed for hauling cargo only.\\nNever use this homemade trailer for carrying kids.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you love using your bicycle to get around, but find it difficult to carry everything you need with you, you might want a cargo trailer to haul more stuff. Build a simple, inexpensive cargo trailer to attach to your bicycle with a few pieces of lumber, two bicycle wheels, and some other easy-to-acquire parts. Make the trailer according to the dimensions you need for the size of load you want to carry. Use a bicycle trailer hitch and arm kit to attach the cargo trailer to your bike and start hauling away!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sketch a plan of the trailer with measurements.\", \"描述\": \"Think about what you plan to carry and how big the trailer needs to be to carry it. Draw a sketch of the outline of the trailer and write down the length and width.\\nYou will need to have a pair of matching bicycle wheels for the trailer already so you can use them to space the side pieces of the frame after you cut all the pieces to size.\\nFor example, if you have a bin of some kind that you want to be able to tow, you can measure the bin and make the trailer at least large enough to hold it. If you want to haul a plastic tub that is 24 in (61 cm) by 18 in (46 cm) big, you could make the trailer about 26 in (66 cm) long by 20 in (51 cm) wide.\\nAn example of dimensions you can use if you don’t have a specific size in mind is 32 in (81 cm) long by 22 in (56 cm) wide. This will give you a manageable trailer with plenty of room to haul stuff like groceries or tools.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut 6 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of lumber for the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Use a power saw or hand saw to cut 2 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of lumber to the width you want the trailer to be for the front and back of the frame. Cut 4 more 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of lumber to the length you want the trailer to be for the sides of the frame, minus 2 in (5.1 cm) to account for the front and back pieces that will cap the side pieces.\\nIf you don’t have the tools to cut the lumber yourself, get it pre-cut for you at a home improvement center or lumber yard.\\nNote that you need 4 long pieces for the sides of the frame because the wheels will fit between them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay out the frame on the ground or a large flat work surface.\", \"描述\": \"Position 2 of the side pieces along with the front and back pieces in a square or rectangle. Place the other 2 side pieces inside the outer frame, parallel to the first 2 side pieces. Space the side pieces so that the bicycle wheels you have fit between them with the axles of the wheels above the wood.\\nUse any 2 bicycle wheels of the same size for the trailer. Try to find used wheels rather than buying new ones. You can check local thrift shops or used bicycle stores if you don’t already have a pair of wheels.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the frame pieces together using 90-degree metal brackets and screws.\", \"描述\": \"Place a 90-degree metal bracket in each corner where 2 pieces of lumber meet, on the inside of the frame. Use an electric drill to drive 0.5–0.75 in (1.3–1.9 cm) wood screws through the holes in the brackets into the wood of the frame.\\nUse metal brackets that have at least 4 screw holes in them for more stability.\\nThis also applies to where the inner side pieces of the frame meet the front and back of the frame. You will need 12 brackets in total; 4 for the outer corners and 8 to hold the inner side pieces of the frame in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cover the frame with plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a piece of 0.25 in (0.64 cm) thick plywood to the size of the frame. Use a jigsaw or reciprocating saw to make cutouts on each side that are big enough for the wheels to fit through. Attach the plywood to the frame by driving 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) wood screws through the plywood into the pieces of lumber below it every 6 in (15 cm) or so.\\nIt’s best not to use plywood any thicker than 0.25 in (0.64 cm) or you will end up adding a lot of weight to the trailer.\\nThe plywood creates a bed on the frame of the trailer that you can set things on to haul them. You can use ropes or bungee cords to secure items or put some kind of bin on the trailer bed to hold things.\\nAgain, if you don’t have the tools to cut the plywood yourself, just provide the measurements to the staff at a home improvement center or lumber yard and have them cut the trailer bed for you.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Wheels\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bend 4 electrical box plate covers to fit on top of the frame’s side pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Place 1 in (2.5 cm) of the short side of an electrical box plate cover into a vice. Hit the exposed metal with a rubber mallet until it is flat against the top of the vise so it’s bent at a 90-degree angle. Repeat this for 3 more electrical box plate covers.\\nElectrical box plate covers are thin, flat pieces of metal that are normally used to cover electrical boxes. They work well for this because they are easy to bend and work with. You can purchase them at a home improvement center or online.\\nOnce the wheels are bolted to the plates, the plates will be attached by screwing them to the plywood deck and into the innermost side pieces of the frame, so the wheels are held in place and sticking up through the gaps in the plywood deck of the trailer.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill axle holes 0.5 in (1.3 cm) up from the bottom edge of each plate.\", \"描述\": \"Measure 0.5 in (1.3 cm) up from the bottom edge, then measure an even distance towards the center from each side and make a mark. Use an electric drill with a metal drill bit that is the same size as the wheels’ axles to drill a hole in each plate.\\nStandard electrical box plate covers are at least 4.5 in (11 cm) long, so drilling the holes 0.5 in (1.3 cm) up from the bottom will ensure that the axles have plenty of clearance between them and the wood of the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill screw holes in the metal plates to attach them to the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Use a metal drill bit the size of your wood screws to drill 2 holes in the bent part of each metal plate. Drill 2 holes, offset from the 2 holes at the top, in the side of each metal plate.\\nThe exact positioning of the holes doesn’t matter, so don’t worry about measuring them. Just make sure to offset the side holes enough from the top holes so the screws don’t intersect in the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Bolt the metal plates onto the wheels.\", \"描述\": \"Slide a metal plate onto each side of the wheels’ axles using the holes you drilled for the axles. Secure the wheels in place on the metal plates by twisting the wheel nuts onto the ends of the axles.\\nIf your wheels don’t have nuts, you can order some bicycle wheel nuts online or buy some at a bike shop.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw the metal plate brackets into place on the side pieces of the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Position the brackets on top of the frame with the wheels sticking through the gaps in the plywood trailer bed. Drive 0.5–0.75 in (1.3–1.9 cm) wood screws through the screw holes you drilled in the plates to attach them to the frame.\\nIt’s easiest to do this if you set the trailer on top of something to raise it up so the wheels clear the ground when you position them. You can use something like cinder blocks or bricks to do this.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding a Trailer Arm\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase a bicycle trailer arm and hitch.\", \"描述\": \"Browse bike shops or search online for kits that come with the two parts or look for a separate arm and hitch that are compatible. Buy the parts and take them home or order them online ad wait for them to arrive.\\nThis can cost anywhere from about $30-$100 USD if you purchase the parts online.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the trailer hitch to the rear left wheel hub of your bike.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the nut from the left side of the rear wheel hub on your bicycle. Slide the hitch onto the end of the wheel’s axle, where you just removed the wheel nut from, then reattach the nut to hold everything in place.\\nThis applies to side-mounted trailer hitches that go on the rear wheel hub on the left side of the bike. There are also some trailer hitch and arm kits that attach higher up to the rear seat post that you can try if you prefer.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw the trailer arm onto the left side of the trailer.\", \"描述\": \"Position the arm on the left side of the trailer, against the outer piece of the frame, as far forward as the screw holes will let you put it. Attach it to the frame by driving the provided screws through the holes into the wood of the frame using an electric drill.\\nAlways refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for any special mounting guidelines.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Couple the arm and the hitch.\", \"描述\": \"Insert the end of trailer’s arm into the hitch to connect them. Secure the arm in place in the hitch by sliding the pin through the hole in the hitch. Snap any straps in place or tighten any other connecting hardware.\\nThe exact method for coupling the arm and hitch varies depending on the model and brand. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for specific directions about safely securing the trailer to the hitch.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"This trailer is designed for hauling cargo only.\\n\", \"Never use this homemade trailer for carrying kids.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,223 |
How to Build a Big Chest
|
1. Focusing on Muscle Growth
1-1. Take an explosive approach to weight training.
Studies show that lifting fast and hard causes muscles to grow more quickly than lifting slowly. "Explosive" weight training is the key to getting bigger chest muscles. Instead of counting your reps, you can try timing your workouts. Set a timer for a minute or two and do as many reps as fast as you can during the allotted time period.
This type of training requires perfect technique. "Fast on the concentric, slow on the eccentric" is the most effective way to build muscle. In bench press, the push up is the concentric, and lowering the bar to your chest is the eccentric. In pec flyes, bringing the arms together is the concentric, and lowering your arms to the sides is the eccentric.
1-2. Try as hard as you can.
In addition to exercising more quickly, you should take a more intense approach to working out. Muscles need to be challenged in order to grow. That means you should be lifting as much weight as you can for ten reps or so. It doesn't matter how much weight you lift in relation to others; if you're lifting enough to challenge yourself, you'll see muscle growth.
Determine how much weight you should be lifting by experimenting with different weights until you find the one you can lift about 10 times before you have to stop. If you can only lift a weight 6 or so times, it's too heavy. If you can lift it 15 times, it's too light.
Working with a trainer is a good idea if you're a beginner. Make sure you don't push yourself too hard, or you'll risk injuring yourself.
1-3. Check your weight target every couple weeks.
One method of weight training is to gradually move on to heavier weights. Every other week or so, see if you can handle a little more weight. It's not helpful to push yourself to exhaustion or to risk injury, but it's good to find that sweet spot where your workout is doable but challenging.
1-4. Rest your muscles effectively.
You shouldn't work out your chest muscles every single day. They need time to recover and build up stronger and bigger in between workouts. On the days when you aren't exercising your pecs, work on your legs or back. Be sure to get a good night's sleep each night, too, so your muscles repair fully after workouts.
1-5. Keep up moderate cardio.
Cardio exercises like running, biking, swimming, and team sports improve heart health and provide other benefits weight training cannot. Now's not the time to spend all your energy running marathons, but aim for cardio sessions that last at least 30 minutes, five days a week.
If cardio is getting in the way of your lifting, switch your priorities and do weight training first, then cardio second.
2. Doing Chest Exercises
2-1. Do bench presses.
The bench press is considered the single most effective exercise for those seeking to build a big chest. Lifting heavy weights with few repetitions is the best way to build muscle. You can use a bench press machine, barbell or even dumbbells to perform this exercise.
Have someone spot you. If you're lifting to failure (or the point where your muscles physically cannot support the lift), you absolutely need a spotter to catch the weight for you. Make sure that person is physically capable of catching whatever you might drop.
Select a weight that you can lift at 7 to 10 times.
Lie on a weight bench on your back. Grip the bar with hands slightly wider than shoulder-width apart.
Lower the bar slowly until it touches your chest. Then return to the starting position.
Repeat until you have completed this movement 5 to 7 times, or reached failure.
Rest for a bit, then do 2 more sets.
If you can perform 10 repetitions easily, add more weight.
2-2. Use dumbbells or a cable station to do flyes.
Lighter weights are recommended for this exercise. The weight limit is determined by your shoulder, which is the pivot of a long lever formed by your extended arm.
Lie on your back and grasp a dumbbell or cable handle in each hand.
Extend your arms straight up in front of you.
Keep your arms extended and slowly lower your hands to either side of your body.
Return to the starting position.
Repeat for a total of 3 sets of 10 to 12 repetitions.
Increase weight after you can perform 12 repetitions easily.
2-3. Superset two or more exercises in order.
Supersets force your muscles to work harder, because you're doing one exercise right after another. They can be very effective in building up muscle.
For instance, after doing 10 reps of the flat bench press, go immediately to dumbbell flyes and perform as many reps as you can. Or, follow the bench press with as many push-ups as you can do.
2-4. Try drop sets.
For a drop set, lessen the weight on each successive set and go to failure.
Perform at least 10 reps of the bench press or flyes. Immediately remove 10 pounds and perform the exercise to failure. Then, remove 10 pounds again and once more perform the exercise to failure.
2-5. Do push-ups.
For maximum benefits, do a variety of push-ups. There's nothing more effective than the classic move:
Space your hands farther than shoulder-width apart, shoulder-width apart or close together.
Place your feet on a bench and do decline push-ups, or place feet on the floor and hands on a bench for incline push-ups.
Push yourself to failure for each set.
2-6. Do dips.
These can be performed on a dip bar or even between two high-backed chairs.
Hold yourself upright between the bars or chairs, then bend your elbows and lower your body until you feel a stretch in your chest.
Return to the starting position and repeat.
For added benefit, tie a weight plate around your waist or grasp a dumbbell between your ankles or knees while performing this exercise.
2-7. Do pull-ups or chin-ups.
Pull-ups will not increase the size of your chest, but they complement your efforts by strengthening the back and stomach. Chin-ups (with arms closer together in an underhand grip) do engage your pectoralis major, but still focus primarily on other muscles.
3. Eating for Bigger Muscles
3-1. Eat plenty of healthy food.
Your body will consume muscle if you do not intake enough calories to sustain your activity level. If you want to gain muscle, you need to create a calorie surplus, and most of that should be complex carbohydrates and protein. Avoid overloading on simple carbs and fats, which do not provide long-term energy and can encourage fat gain instead of muscle.
Eat a balanced diet of whole grains, protein (meat, fish, eggs, tofu, etc.), fruits and veggies and fiber.
Avoid sugary drinks and desserts, fast food, meat that is laden with nitrates and hormones, and salty snack foods.
3-2. Eat more than three meals a day.
When you're focusing on muscle growth, your body needs a lot of fuel. Eating three regular-sized meals a day isn't going to cut it. Add two more meals, each with a protein source roughly the size of your palm. You may have to eat more than you actually feel hungry for, but you'll be happy with the results when you see your chest getting bulkier.
If you are lean and want to gain muscle weight, increase portion sizes. If you have excess fat you'd like to lose, keep portion sizes under control.
Eat a healthy meal an hour or so before working out. Go for healthy carbohydrates like quinoa, beans, or brown rice, paired with a light protein.
Eat another meal after you work out to help your muscles repair and build up stronger.
3-3. Drink plenty of water.
You should be drinking 8-10 glasses a day, both to keep you hydrated and to help your muscles process the protein you're taking in. Drink water before and after each workout.
3-4. Take supplements.
Big muscle growth is often helped along with supplements. Creatine replicates a natural enzyme the body produces to promote muscle growth and strength. Taking the recommended dosage has been shown to help muscles get bigger, faster.
Tips
Incline or decline the bench when doing bench presses to attack the chest muscles from a different angle.
Warm up before performing any exercises by stretching and doing 1 set with a light weight to avoid muscle strain.
Consult your physician before beginning any exercise program.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Focusing on Muscle Growth\\n1-1. Take an explosive approach to weight training.\\nStudies show that lifting fast and hard causes muscles to grow more quickly than lifting slowly. \\\"Explosive\\\" weight training is the key to getting bigger chest muscles. Instead of counting your reps, you can try timing your workouts. Set a timer for a minute or two and do as many reps as fast as you can during the allotted time period.\\nThis type of training requires perfect technique. \\\"Fast on the concentric, slow on the eccentric\\\" is the most effective way to build muscle. In bench press, the push up is the concentric, and lowering the bar to your chest is the eccentric. In pec flyes, bringing the arms together is the concentric, and lowering your arms to the sides is the eccentric.\\n1-2. Try as hard as you can.\\nIn addition to exercising more quickly, you should take a more intense approach to working out. Muscles need to be challenged in order to grow. That means you should be lifting as much weight as you can for ten reps or so. It doesn't matter how much weight you lift in relation to others; if you're lifting enough to challenge yourself, you'll see muscle growth.\\nDetermine how much weight you should be lifting by experimenting with different weights until you find the one you can lift about 10 times before you have to stop. If you can only lift a weight 6 or so times, it's too heavy. If you can lift it 15 times, it's too light.\\nWorking with a trainer is a good idea if you're a beginner. Make sure you don't push yourself too hard, or you'll risk injuring yourself.\\n1-3. Check your weight target every couple weeks.\\nOne method of weight training is to gradually move on to heavier weights. Every other week or so, see if you can handle a little more weight. It's not helpful to push yourself to exhaustion or to risk injury, but it's good to find that sweet spot where your workout is doable but challenging.\\n1-4. Rest your muscles effectively.\\nYou shouldn't work out your chest muscles every single day. They need time to recover and build up stronger and bigger in between workouts. On the days when you aren't exercising your pecs, work on your legs or back. Be sure to get a good night's sleep each night, too, so your muscles repair fully after workouts.\\n1-5. Keep up moderate cardio.\\nCardio exercises like running, biking, swimming, and team sports improve heart health and provide other benefits weight training cannot. Now's not the time to spend all your energy running marathons, but aim for cardio sessions that last at least 30 minutes, five days a week.\\nIf cardio is getting in the way of your lifting, switch your priorities and do weight training first, then cardio second.\\n2. Doing Chest Exercises\\n2-1. Do bench presses.\\nThe bench press is considered the single most effective exercise for those seeking to build a big chest. Lifting heavy weights with few repetitions is the best way to build muscle. You can use a bench press machine, barbell or even dumbbells to perform this exercise.\\nHave someone spot you. If you're lifting to failure (or the point where your muscles physically cannot support the lift), you absolutely need a spotter to catch the weight for you. Make sure that person is physically capable of catching whatever you might drop.\\nSelect a weight that you can lift at 7 to 10 times.\\nLie on a weight bench on your back. Grip the bar with hands slightly wider than shoulder-width apart.\\nLower the bar slowly until it touches your chest. Then return to the starting position.\\nRepeat until you have completed this movement 5 to 7 times, or reached failure.\\nRest for a bit, then do 2 more sets.\\nIf you can perform 10 repetitions easily, add more weight.\\n2-2. Use dumbbells or a cable station to do flyes.\\nLighter weights are recommended for this exercise. The weight limit is determined by your shoulder, which is the pivot of a long lever formed by your extended arm.\\nLie on your back and grasp a dumbbell or cable handle in each hand.\\nExtend your arms straight up in front of you.\\nKeep your arms extended and slowly lower your hands to either side of your body.\\nReturn to the starting position.\\nRepeat for a total of 3 sets of 10 to 12 repetitions.\\nIncrease weight after you can perform 12 repetitions easily.\\n2-3. Superset two or more exercises in order.\\nSupersets force your muscles to work harder, because you're doing one exercise right after another. They can be very effective in building up muscle.\\nFor instance, after doing 10 reps of the flat bench press, go immediately to dumbbell flyes and perform as many reps as you can. Or, follow the bench press with as many push-ups as you can do.\\n2-4. Try drop sets.\\nFor a drop set, lessen the weight on each successive set and go to failure.\\nPerform at least 10 reps of the bench press or flyes. Immediately remove 10 pounds and perform the exercise to failure. Then, remove 10 pounds again and once more perform the exercise to failure.\\n2-5. Do push-ups.\\nFor maximum benefits, do a variety of push-ups. There's nothing more effective than the classic move:\\nSpace your hands farther than shoulder-width apart, shoulder-width apart or close together.\\nPlace your feet on a bench and do decline push-ups, or place feet on the floor and hands on a bench for incline push-ups.\\nPush yourself to failure for each set.\\n2-6. Do dips.\\nThese can be performed on a dip bar or even between two high-backed chairs.\\nHold yourself upright between the bars or chairs, then bend your elbows and lower your body until you feel a stretch in your chest.\\nReturn to the starting position and repeat.\\nFor added benefit, tie a weight plate around your waist or grasp a dumbbell between your ankles or knees while performing this exercise.\\n2-7. Do pull-ups or chin-ups.\\nPull-ups will not increase the size of your chest, but they complement your efforts by strengthening the back and stomach. Chin-ups (with arms closer together in an underhand grip) do engage your pectoralis major, but still focus primarily on other muscles.\\n3. Eating for Bigger Muscles\\n3-1. Eat plenty of healthy food.\\nYour body will consume muscle if you do not intake enough calories to sustain your activity level. If you want to gain muscle, you need to create a calorie surplus, and most of that should be complex carbohydrates and protein. Avoid overloading on simple carbs and fats, which do not provide long-term energy and can encourage fat gain instead of muscle.\\nEat a balanced diet of whole grains, protein (meat, fish, eggs, tofu, etc.), fruits and veggies and fiber.\\nAvoid sugary drinks and desserts, fast food, meat that is laden with nitrates and hormones, and salty snack foods.\\n3-2. Eat more than three meals a day.\\nWhen you're focusing on muscle growth, your body needs a lot of fuel. Eating three regular-sized meals a day isn't going to cut it. Add two more meals, each with a protein source roughly the size of your palm. You may have to eat more than you actually feel hungry for, but you'll be happy with the results when you see your chest getting bulkier.\\nIf you are lean and want to gain muscle weight, increase portion sizes. If you have excess fat you'd like to lose, keep portion sizes under control.\\nEat a healthy meal an hour or so before working out. Go for healthy carbohydrates like quinoa, beans, or brown rice, paired with a light protein.\\nEat another meal after you work out to help your muscles repair and build up stronger.\\n3-3. Drink plenty of water.\\nYou should be drinking 8-10 glasses a day, both to keep you hydrated and to help your muscles process the protein you're taking in. Drink water before and after each workout.\\n3-4. Take supplements.\\nBig muscle growth is often helped along with supplements. Creatine replicates a natural enzyme the body produces to promote muscle growth and strength. Taking the recommended dosage has been shown to help muscles get bigger, faster.\\nTips\\nIncline or decline the bench when doing bench presses to attack the chest muscles from a different angle.\\nWarm up before performing any exercises by stretching and doing 1 set with a light weight to avoid muscle strain.\\nConsult your physician before beginning any exercise program.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Are you ready to impress people at the gym or at the beach, with a bigger, more muscular chest? By adding more intensity to your exercise regimen, eating plenty of calories to fuel your workouts, and doing exercises that target your pecs, you can build muscle there within a matter of weeks. Whether you seek to become a professional bodybuilder or simply improve your physique, a big, muscular chest is an impressive accomplishment.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Focusing on Muscle Growth\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take an explosive approach to weight training.\", \"描述\": \"Studies show that lifting fast and hard causes muscles to grow more quickly than lifting slowly. \\\"Explosive\\\" weight training is the key to getting bigger chest muscles. Instead of counting your reps, you can try timing your workouts. Set a timer for a minute or two and do as many reps as fast as you can during the allotted time period.\\nThis type of training requires perfect technique. \\\"Fast on the concentric, slow on the eccentric\\\" is the most effective way to build muscle. In bench press, the push up is the concentric, and lowering the bar to your chest is the eccentric. In pec flyes, bringing the arms together is the concentric, and lowering your arms to the sides is the eccentric.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Try as hard as you can.\", \"描述\": \"In addition to exercising more quickly, you should take a more intense approach to working out. Muscles need to be challenged in order to grow. That means you should be lifting as much weight as you can for ten reps or so. It doesn't matter how much weight you lift in relation to others; if you're lifting enough to challenge yourself, you'll see muscle growth.\\nDetermine how much weight you should be lifting by experimenting with different weights until you find the one you can lift about 10 times before you have to stop. If you can only lift a weight 6 or so times, it's too heavy. If you can lift it 15 times, it's too light.\\nWorking with a trainer is a good idea if you're a beginner. Make sure you don't push yourself too hard, or you'll risk injuring yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Check your weight target every couple weeks.\", \"描述\": \"One method of weight training is to gradually move on to heavier weights. Every other week or so, see if you can handle a little more weight. It's not helpful to push yourself to exhaustion or to risk injury, but it's good to find that sweet spot where your workout is doable but challenging.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Rest your muscles effectively.\", \"描述\": \"You shouldn't work out your chest muscles every single day. They need time to recover and build up stronger and bigger in between workouts. On the days when you aren't exercising your pecs, work on your legs or back. Be sure to get a good night's sleep each night, too, so your muscles repair fully after workouts.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Keep up moderate cardio.\", \"描述\": \"Cardio exercises like running, biking, swimming, and team sports improve heart health and provide other benefits weight training cannot. Now's not the time to spend all your energy running marathons, but aim for cardio sessions that last at least 30 minutes, five days a week.\\nIf cardio is getting in the way of your lifting, switch your priorities and do weight training first, then cardio second.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Doing Chest Exercises\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Do bench presses.\", \"描述\": \"The bench press is considered the single most effective exercise for those seeking to build a big chest. Lifting heavy weights with few repetitions is the best way to build muscle. You can use a bench press machine, barbell or even dumbbells to perform this exercise.\\nHave someone spot you. If you're lifting to failure (or the point where your muscles physically cannot support the lift), you absolutely need a spotter to catch the weight for you. Make sure that person is physically capable of catching whatever you might drop.\\nSelect a weight that you can lift at 7 to 10 times.\\nLie on a weight bench on your back. Grip the bar with hands slightly wider than shoulder-width apart.\\nLower the bar slowly until it touches your chest. Then return to the starting position.\\nRepeat until you have completed this movement 5 to 7 times, or reached failure.\\nRest for a bit, then do 2 more sets.\\nIf you can perform 10 repetitions easily, add more weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use dumbbells or a cable station to do flyes.\", \"描述\": \"Lighter weights are recommended for this exercise. The weight limit is determined by your shoulder, which is the pivot of a long lever formed by your extended arm.\\nLie on your back and grasp a dumbbell or cable handle in each hand.\\nExtend your arms straight up in front of you.\\nKeep your arms extended and slowly lower your hands to either side of your body.\\nReturn to the starting position.\\nRepeat for a total of 3 sets of 10 to 12 repetitions.\\nIncrease weight after you can perform 12 repetitions easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Superset two or more exercises in order.\", \"描述\": \"Supersets force your muscles to work harder, because you're doing one exercise right after another. They can be very effective in building up muscle.\\nFor instance, after doing 10 reps of the flat bench press, go immediately to dumbbell flyes and perform as many reps as you can. Or, follow the bench press with as many push-ups as you can do.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try drop sets.\", \"描述\": \"For a drop set, lessen the weight on each successive set and go to failure.\\nPerform at least 10 reps of the bench press or flyes. Immediately remove 10 pounds and perform the exercise to failure. Then, remove 10 pounds again and once more perform the exercise to failure.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Do push-ups.\", \"描述\": \"For maximum benefits, do a variety of push-ups. There's nothing more effective than the classic move:\\nSpace your hands farther than shoulder-width apart, shoulder-width apart or close together.\\nPlace your feet on a bench and do decline push-ups, or place feet on the floor and hands on a bench for incline push-ups.\\nPush yourself to failure for each set.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Do dips.\", \"描述\": \"These can be performed on a dip bar or even between two high-backed chairs.\\nHold yourself upright between the bars or chairs, then bend your elbows and lower your body until you feel a stretch in your chest.\\nReturn to the starting position and repeat.\\nFor added benefit, tie a weight plate around your waist or grasp a dumbbell between your ankles or knees while performing this exercise.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Do pull-ups or chin-ups.\", \"描述\": \"Pull-ups will not increase the size of your chest, but they complement your efforts by strengthening the back and stomach. Chin-ups (with arms closer together in an underhand grip) do engage your pectoralis major, but still focus primarily on other muscles.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Eating for Bigger Muscles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Eat plenty of healthy food.\", \"描述\": \"Your body will consume muscle if you do not intake enough calories to sustain your activity level. If you want to gain muscle, you need to create a calorie surplus, and most of that should be complex carbohydrates and protein. Avoid overloading on simple carbs and fats, which do not provide long-term energy and can encourage fat gain instead of muscle.\\nEat a balanced diet of whole grains, protein (meat, fish, eggs, tofu, etc.), fruits and veggies and fiber.\\nAvoid sugary drinks and desserts, fast food, meat that is laden with nitrates and hormones, and salty snack foods.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Eat more than three meals a day.\", \"描述\": \"When you're focusing on muscle growth, your body needs a lot of fuel. Eating three regular-sized meals a day isn't going to cut it. Add two more meals, each with a protein source roughly the size of your palm. You may have to eat more than you actually feel hungry for, but you'll be happy with the results when you see your chest getting bulkier.\\nIf you are lean and want to gain muscle weight, increase portion sizes. If you have excess fat you'd like to lose, keep portion sizes under control.\\nEat a healthy meal an hour or so before working out. Go for healthy carbohydrates like quinoa, beans, or brown rice, paired with a light protein.\\nEat another meal after you work out to help your muscles repair and build up stronger.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drink plenty of water.\", \"描述\": \"You should be drinking 8-10 glasses a day, both to keep you hydrated and to help your muscles process the protein you're taking in. Drink water before and after each workout.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take supplements.\", \"描述\": \"Big muscle growth is often helped along with supplements. Creatine replicates a natural enzyme the body produces to promote muscle growth and strength. Taking the recommended dosage has been shown to help muscles get bigger, faster.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Incline or decline the bench when doing bench presses to attack the chest muscles from a different angle.\\n\", \"Warm up before performing any exercises by stretching and doing 1 set with a light weight to avoid muscle strain.\\n\", \"Consult your physician before beginning any exercise program.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,224 |
How to Build a Bike Stand
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1. Assembling a Metal Work Stand
1-1. Buy your metal pipes, joint, bracket, and clamp from a hardware store.
Drive over to your local home improvement or hardware store and head to the plumbing aisle. Buy a ⁄4 by 48 inches (1.9 by 121.9 cm) metal pipe with threading on both ends. Then, pick up a ⁄4 by 12 inches (1.9 by 30.5 cm) pipe in the same color. Grab a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) elbow bracket and a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) base plate with screw slots. Pick up some matching screws if you don’t have any at home. Finish by picking up a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) pipe clamp.
This shouldn’t cost you more than $25-35 depending on the cost of the pipe clamp.
The pipe clamp will be the piece that holds your bike in the air by gripping the seat bar. Make sure that you get a clamp with jaws wide enough for your specific bike.
You can replace all of these parts with PVC pipes and joints of the same size if you prefer, but metal piping is much stronger and is less likely to break over time.
1-2. Screw the elbow joint into either end of the longer pipe.
Hold the ⁄4 by 48 in (1.9 by 121.9 cm) pipe in your nondominant hand. Hold the end of the elbow joint over the end of the pipe and turn it clockwise until the threading on the joint catches on the pipe. Keep turning it until you can’t turn it any further to secure it.
The threading on both sides of the elbow joint and both ends of the longer pipe are identical. It doesn’t matter which end or which direction you do this in.
1-3. Attach the shorter pipe into the open end of the elbow joint.
Hold the longer pipe in your nondominant hand with the elbow joint at the top. Take the 12 in (30 cm) pipe and screw it into the open end of the elbow joint. Turn the pipe clockwise until the threading catches and continue turning it until the pipe won’t turn any further.
The bike will hang from this short pipe, so it’s really important that this piece is screwed in tight.
1-4. Slide half of the pipe clamp over the end of the shorter pipe.
Pipe clamps come in 2 pieces. Grab the smaller piece and squeeze the 2 handles together. While holding the handles down, slide the opening over the shorter pipe. Release the handles when the smaller piece is 6 inches (15 cm) from the end of the pipe.
The side with the jaw on it, which is the flat platform that matches an identical platform on the other end, must be facing towards the opening of the pipe with the clamp parallel to the floor.
1-5. Attach the other half of the clamp to the pipe and line the jaws up.
Take the larger piece of the pipe clamp and slide the opening in the middle over the end of the pipe. Turn it clockwise to attach it to the end of the pipe. Line up the jaw on the larger piece with the jaw on the other half of the clamp that you already attached.
1-6. Drill the bracket into 2 sheets of plywood for a movable stand.
Take your bracket and hold it 1 in (2.5 cm) from the edge of any side of the board in the middle. Drill the bracket into the board using wood screws that are long enough to go through the board. Cap the screws on the other side with nuts to brace them. Then, cut out a small section of the second board with a jigsaw to make space for the screws. Use wood glue to secure the boards together before screwing the open end of the long pipe into the bracket.
You can use smaller screws and single sheet of ply wood if you’d like, but the bike will be more likely to tip over if you do this.
The 12 in (30 cm) pipe must be oriented with the clamp hanging on the other side of the plywood, not away from it. The natural weight of the bike combined with the shape of the plywood will keep the bike from falling over.
1-7. Install the bracket in a ceiling joist for a hanging work stand.
If you want to install the bracket in the ceiling, make sure that you either find a stud in the ceiling with a stud finder or hang it in the garage or basement on an exposed joist. Hold the bracket over the joist and use 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wood screws to drill it into the ceiling. Then, screw the empty end of the long pipe into the bracket by turning it clockwise until it won’t turn any further.
1-8. Hang the seat on top of the pipe clamp to secure it to the stand.
To put the bike on the stand, lift it up by the frame and slide the bar under the seat between the jaws of the pipe clamp. Rest the seat on top of the clamp and turn the adjustable bar on the pipe clamp clockwise to tighten the jaws against the seat.
Don’t turn the clamp so hard that you damage your bike! Your frame will be fine so long as the jaws are resting against the bar.
2. Making a Wooden Storage Rack
2-1. Pick up 2 wood boards from a construction supply store.
Head to your local construction supply store and pick up a 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood board that is at least 3 feet (0.91 m) in length. Also, grab a 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) board that is equally long. You can create a simple freestanding bike rack just from these pieces.
This is a really simple DIY project that doesn’t really require a ton of woodworking knowledge. You do need to make a few simple cuts with a saw, though.
You can’t purchase the boards pre-cut since you need to build the stand based on the size of your specific tire and wheel. All bike tires are not the same size, so you’ll need to cut them yourself after measuring them with the boards in place.
2-2. Cut the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) board into two 16 in (41 cm) lengths.
Use a measuring tape to measure off 16 inches (41 cm) from the edge of the board. Mark this distance off with a carpentry pencil. Then, use a miter saw, circular saw, or handsaw to cut the board to size. Repeat this process again to create 2 16 inches (41 cm) boards.
You can cut the boards to be 18 inches (46 cm) in length if you own a heavier bike or want a slightly bigger stand.
2-3. Place the two 16 in (41 cm) lengths under your front tire.
Set the kickstand down on your bike or lean it against a wall. Adjust the handlebars so that your front tire is straight. Place the 2 boards you cut underneath the end of each tire so that they’re resting perpendicular to the rubber on either side.
The boards must be resting directly against the rubber of the tire without lifting your bike up off of the ground.
Make sure that the boards are roughly parallel with one another. They don’t need to be perfect, but they should be relatively straight.
2-4. Measure the distance between the boards from end to end.
Grab a measuring tape and measure the distance from the exterior edge of 1 board to the exterior edge of the board on the other side. Note this measurement. Then, repeat this process on the opposite side to make sure that they match.
If you get 2 different measurements on both sides, adjust the angle of each board to straighten them out and measure again to make sure that you get the same length on each side.
For most bikes, this measurement should be roughly 20–30 inches (51–76 cm).
2-5. Create 2 boards out of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) piece to match your measurement.
Take your 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) board and mark off your first cut based on the measurement between the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards on the ground. Cut this board the same way you cut the first set. Repeat this process again to create 2 boards of equal size.
For example, if the distance between the 2 boards on the floor was 24 inches (61 cm), cut your 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) board into two 24 in (61 cm) pieces.
You can trim a triangular piece out of the top of each board on each side if you’d like the stand to have a more aesthetically pleasing look.
2-6. Place the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards on the open sides of the tire.
Take your boards to the bike and set them on top of the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards vertically so that they’re bracing the wheel on either side. Line the exterior edges of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards up with the wood planks on the floor so their sides are flush.
This should look like you’re making a rectangle with 2 taller sides holding the tire in place.
2-7. Mark the edge where the boards meet with a pencil.
Grab a carpentry pencil and trace the edges of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards on each of the 4 ends where they’re meeting the longer boards underneath. You will assemble the stand upside down, so extend your markings along the side of the longer boards so that you can see them when the pieces are upside down.
The more references you can add for yourself, the better. Attaching the boards isn’t particularly hard but it can be kind of tricky to line the pieces up with one another.
2-8. Turn the pieces upside down and line the boards up with your marks.
Set the entire set of boards upside down on the ground. Line the edges of the thinner boards up with the edges of the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards. Check the marks you made on the sides of the boards to ensure that the entire assembly matches the shape you set up on the ground.
2-9. Drill the boards together with 4 in (10 cm) wood screws.
Grab a set of with 4 in (10 cm) wood screws. Hold the first screw over the center of a junction where 2 boards meet. Carefully and slowly drive the drill through the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) board and into the middle of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) piece. Continue drilling until the screw is flush with the wood. Repeat this process with the other 3 junctions where the boards meet.
If you’re struggling to brace the boards while drilling, drill a pilot hole through both sets of boards before attaching the screws. Use a pilot bit slightly smaller than the screws you’re using.
You can use wood glue to reinforce the seams between the boards if you’d like some extra support.
Alternatively, you can buy a new bike. Think about the purpose for which you will use it.
Consider whether you will use it for transportation, recreational rides, or fitness.
Find a bike that suits your budget and meets your needs.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling a Metal Work Stand\\n1-1. Buy your metal pipes, joint, bracket, and clamp from a hardware store.\\nDrive over to your local home improvement or hardware store and head to the plumbing aisle. Buy a ⁄4 by 48 inches (1.9 by 121.9 cm) metal pipe with threading on both ends. Then, pick up a ⁄4 by 12 inches (1.9 by 30.5 cm) pipe in the same color. Grab a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) elbow bracket and a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) base plate with screw slots. Pick up some matching screws if you don’t have any at home. Finish by picking up a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) pipe clamp.\\nThis shouldn’t cost you more than $25-35 depending on the cost of the pipe clamp.\\nThe pipe clamp will be the piece that holds your bike in the air by gripping the seat bar. Make sure that you get a clamp with jaws wide enough for your specific bike.\\nYou can replace all of these parts with PVC pipes and joints of the same size if you prefer, but metal piping is much stronger and is less likely to break over time.\\n1-2. Screw the elbow joint into either end of the longer pipe.\\nHold the ⁄4 by 48 in (1.9 by 121.9 cm) pipe in your nondominant hand. Hold the end of the elbow joint over the end of the pipe and turn it clockwise until the threading on the joint catches on the pipe. Keep turning it until you can’t turn it any further to secure it.\\nThe threading on both sides of the elbow joint and both ends of the longer pipe are identical. It doesn’t matter which end or which direction you do this in.\\n1-3. Attach the shorter pipe into the open end of the elbow joint.\\nHold the longer pipe in your nondominant hand with the elbow joint at the top. Take the 12 in (30 cm) pipe and screw it into the open end of the elbow joint. Turn the pipe clockwise until the threading catches and continue turning it until the pipe won’t turn any further.\\nThe bike will hang from this short pipe, so it’s really important that this piece is screwed in tight.\\n1-4. Slide half of the pipe clamp over the end of the shorter pipe.\\nPipe clamps come in 2 pieces. Grab the smaller piece and squeeze the 2 handles together. While holding the handles down, slide the opening over the shorter pipe. Release the handles when the smaller piece is 6 inches (15 cm) from the end of the pipe.\\nThe side with the jaw on it, which is the flat platform that matches an identical platform on the other end, must be facing towards the opening of the pipe with the clamp parallel to the floor.\\n1-5. Attach the other half of the clamp to the pipe and line the jaws up.\\nTake the larger piece of the pipe clamp and slide the opening in the middle over the end of the pipe. Turn it clockwise to attach it to the end of the pipe. Line up the jaw on the larger piece with the jaw on the other half of the clamp that you already attached.\\n1-6. Drill the bracket into 2 sheets of plywood for a movable stand.\\nTake your bracket and hold it 1 in (2.5 cm) from the edge of any side of the board in the middle. Drill the bracket into the board using wood screws that are long enough to go through the board. Cap the screws on the other side with nuts to brace them. Then, cut out a small section of the second board with a jigsaw to make space for the screws. Use wood glue to secure the boards together before screwing the open end of the long pipe into the bracket.\\nYou can use smaller screws and single sheet of ply wood if you’d like, but the bike will be more likely to tip over if you do this.\\nThe 12 in (30 cm) pipe must be oriented with the clamp hanging on the other side of the plywood, not away from it. The natural weight of the bike combined with the shape of the plywood will keep the bike from falling over.\\n1-7. Install the bracket in a ceiling joist for a hanging work stand.\\nIf you want to install the bracket in the ceiling, make sure that you either find a stud in the ceiling with a stud finder or hang it in the garage or basement on an exposed joist. Hold the bracket over the joist and use 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wood screws to drill it into the ceiling. Then, screw the empty end of the long pipe into the bracket by turning it clockwise until it won’t turn any further.\\n1-8. Hang the seat on top of the pipe clamp to secure it to the stand.\\nTo put the bike on the stand, lift it up by the frame and slide the bar under the seat between the jaws of the pipe clamp. Rest the seat on top of the clamp and turn the adjustable bar on the pipe clamp clockwise to tighten the jaws against the seat.\\nDon’t turn the clamp so hard that you damage your bike! Your frame will be fine so long as the jaws are resting against the bar.\\n2. Making a Wooden Storage Rack\\n2-1. Pick up 2 wood boards from a construction supply store.\\nHead to your local construction supply store and pick up a 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood board that is at least 3 feet (0.91 m) in length. Also, grab a 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) board that is equally long. You can create a simple freestanding bike rack just from these pieces.\\nThis is a really simple DIY project that doesn’t really require a ton of woodworking knowledge. You do need to make a few simple cuts with a saw, though.\\nYou can’t purchase the boards pre-cut since you need to build the stand based on the size of your specific tire and wheel. All bike tires are not the same size, so you’ll need to cut them yourself after measuring them with the boards in place.\\n2-2. Cut the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) board into two 16 in (41 cm) lengths.\\nUse a measuring tape to measure off 16 inches (41 cm) from the edge of the board. Mark this distance off with a carpentry pencil. Then, use a miter saw, circular saw, or handsaw to cut the board to size. Repeat this process again to create 2 16 inches (41 cm) boards.\\nYou can cut the boards to be 18 inches (46 cm) in length if you own a heavier bike or want a slightly bigger stand.\\n2-3. Place the two 16 in (41 cm) lengths under your front tire.\\nSet the kickstand down on your bike or lean it against a wall. Adjust the handlebars so that your front tire is straight. Place the 2 boards you cut underneath the end of each tire so that they’re resting perpendicular to the rubber on either side.\\nThe boards must be resting directly against the rubber of the tire without lifting your bike up off of the ground.\\nMake sure that the boards are roughly parallel with one another. They don’t need to be perfect, but they should be relatively straight.\\n2-4. Measure the distance between the boards from end to end.\\nGrab a measuring tape and measure the distance from the exterior edge of 1 board to the exterior edge of the board on the other side. Note this measurement. Then, repeat this process on the opposite side to make sure that they match.\\nIf you get 2 different measurements on both sides, adjust the angle of each board to straighten them out and measure again to make sure that you get the same length on each side.\\nFor most bikes, this measurement should be roughly 20–30 inches (51–76 cm).\\n2-5. Create 2 boards out of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) piece to match your measurement.\\nTake your 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) board and mark off your first cut based on the measurement between the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards on the ground. Cut this board the same way you cut the first set. Repeat this process again to create 2 boards of equal size.\\nFor example, if the distance between the 2 boards on the floor was 24 inches (61 cm), cut your 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) board into two 24 in (61 cm) pieces.\\nYou can trim a triangular piece out of the top of each board on each side if you’d like the stand to have a more aesthetically pleasing look.\\n2-6. Place the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards on the open sides of the tire.\\nTake your boards to the bike and set them on top of the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards vertically so that they’re bracing the wheel on either side. Line the exterior edges of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards up with the wood planks on the floor so their sides are flush.\\nThis should look like you’re making a rectangle with 2 taller sides holding the tire in place.\\n2-7. Mark the edge where the boards meet with a pencil.\\nGrab a carpentry pencil and trace the edges of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards on each of the 4 ends where they’re meeting the longer boards underneath. You will assemble the stand upside down, so extend your markings along the side of the longer boards so that you can see them when the pieces are upside down.\\nThe more references you can add for yourself, the better. Attaching the boards isn’t particularly hard but it can be kind of tricky to line the pieces up with one another.\\n2-8. Turn the pieces upside down and line the boards up with your marks.\\nSet the entire set of boards upside down on the ground. Line the edges of the thinner boards up with the edges of the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards. Check the marks you made on the sides of the boards to ensure that the entire assembly matches the shape you set up on the ground.\\n2-9. Drill the boards together with 4 in (10 cm) wood screws.\\nGrab a set of with 4 in (10 cm) wood screws. Hold the first screw over the center of a junction where 2 boards meet. Carefully and slowly drive the drill through the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) board and into the middle of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) piece. Continue drilling until the screw is flush with the wood. Repeat this process with the other 3 junctions where the boards meet.\\nIf you’re struggling to brace the boards while drilling, drill a pilot hole through both sets of boards before attaching the screws. Use a pilot bit slightly smaller than the screws you’re using.\\nYou can use wood glue to reinforce the seams between the boards if you’d like some extra support.\\nAlternatively, you can buy a new bike. Think about the purpose for which you will use it.\\nConsider whether you will use it for transportation, recreational rides, or fitness.\\nFind a bike that suits your budget and meets your needs.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"There’s nothing more frustrating than trying to work on your bike while it’s sitting on its kickstand or against the wall. It makes it hard to focus on what you’re doing when the bike is constantly in danger of tipping over, and it’s hard to tighten something or take a piece off when the wheels roll so easily! Luckily, you can make a simple bike work stand for less than $40. If home storage is getting frustrating, you can also create a simple floor stand with 2 wood boards and a few simple cuts with a power saw.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling a Metal Work Stand\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy your metal pipes, joint, bracket, and clamp from a hardware store.\", \"描述\": \"Drive over to your local home improvement or hardware store and head to the plumbing aisle. Buy a ⁄4 by 48 inches (1.9 by 121.9 cm) metal pipe with threading on both ends. Then, pick up a ⁄4 by 12 inches (1.9 by 30.5 cm) pipe in the same color. Grab a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) elbow bracket and a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) base plate with screw slots. Pick up some matching screws if you don’t have any at home. Finish by picking up a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) pipe clamp.\\nThis shouldn’t cost you more than $25-35 depending on the cost of the pipe clamp.\\nThe pipe clamp will be the piece that holds your bike in the air by gripping the seat bar. Make sure that you get a clamp with jaws wide enough for your specific bike.\\nYou can replace all of these parts with PVC pipes and joints of the same size if you prefer, but metal piping is much stronger and is less likely to break over time.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw the elbow joint into either end of the longer pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the ⁄4 by 48 in (1.9 by 121.9 cm) pipe in your nondominant hand. Hold the end of the elbow joint over the end of the pipe and turn it clockwise until the threading on the joint catches on the pipe. Keep turning it until you can’t turn it any further to secure it.\\nThe threading on both sides of the elbow joint and both ends of the longer pipe are identical. It doesn’t matter which end or which direction you do this in.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the shorter pipe into the open end of the elbow joint.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the longer pipe in your nondominant hand with the elbow joint at the top. Take the 12 in (30 cm) pipe and screw it into the open end of the elbow joint. Turn the pipe clockwise until the threading catches and continue turning it until the pipe won’t turn any further.\\nThe bike will hang from this short pipe, so it’s really important that this piece is screwed in tight.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Slide half of the pipe clamp over the end of the shorter pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Pipe clamps come in 2 pieces. Grab the smaller piece and squeeze the 2 handles together. While holding the handles down, slide the opening over the shorter pipe. Release the handles when the smaller piece is 6 inches (15 cm) from the end of the pipe.\\nThe side with the jaw on it, which is the flat platform that matches an identical platform on the other end, must be facing towards the opening of the pipe with the clamp parallel to the floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the other half of the clamp to the pipe and line the jaws up.\", \"描述\": \"Take the larger piece of the pipe clamp and slide the opening in the middle over the end of the pipe. Turn it clockwise to attach it to the end of the pipe. Line up the jaw on the larger piece with the jaw on the other half of the clamp that you already attached.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill the bracket into 2 sheets of plywood for a movable stand.\", \"描述\": \"Take your bracket and hold it 1 in (2.5 cm) from the edge of any side of the board in the middle. Drill the bracket into the board using wood screws that are long enough to go through the board. Cap the screws on the other side with nuts to brace them. Then, cut out a small section of the second board with a jigsaw to make space for the screws. Use wood glue to secure the boards together before screwing the open end of the long pipe into the bracket.\\nYou can use smaller screws and single sheet of ply wood if you’d like, but the bike will be more likely to tip over if you do this.\\nThe 12 in (30 cm) pipe must be oriented with the clamp hanging on the other side of the plywood, not away from it. The natural weight of the bike combined with the shape of the plywood will keep the bike from falling over.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install the bracket in a ceiling joist for a hanging work stand.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to install the bracket in the ceiling, make sure that you either find a stud in the ceiling with a stud finder or hang it in the garage or basement on an exposed joist. Hold the bracket over the joist and use 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wood screws to drill it into the ceiling. Then, screw the empty end of the long pipe into the bracket by turning it clockwise until it won’t turn any further.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Hang the seat on top of the pipe clamp to secure it to the stand.\", \"描述\": \"To put the bike on the stand, lift it up by the frame and slide the bar under the seat between the jaws of the pipe clamp. Rest the seat on top of the clamp and turn the adjustable bar on the pipe clamp clockwise to tighten the jaws against the seat.\\nDon’t turn the clamp so hard that you damage your bike! Your frame will be fine so long as the jaws are resting against the bar.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Wooden Storage Rack\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick up 2 wood boards from a construction supply store.\", \"描述\": \"Head to your local construction supply store and pick up a 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood board that is at least 3 feet (0.91 m) in length. Also, grab a 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) board that is equally long. You can create a simple freestanding bike rack just from these pieces.\\nThis is a really simple DIY project that doesn’t really require a ton of woodworking knowledge. You do need to make a few simple cuts with a saw, though.\\nYou can’t purchase the boards pre-cut since you need to build the stand based on the size of your specific tire and wheel. All bike tires are not the same size, so you’ll need to cut them yourself after measuring them with the boards in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) board into two 16 in (41 cm) lengths.\", \"描述\": \"Use a measuring tape to measure off 16 inches (41 cm) from the edge of the board. Mark this distance off with a carpentry pencil. Then, use a miter saw, circular saw, or handsaw to cut the board to size. Repeat this process again to create 2 16 inches (41 cm) boards.\\nYou can cut the boards to be 18 inches (46 cm) in length if you own a heavier bike or want a slightly bigger stand.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the two 16 in (41 cm) lengths under your front tire.\", \"描述\": \"Set the kickstand down on your bike or lean it against a wall. Adjust the handlebars so that your front tire is straight. Place the 2 boards you cut underneath the end of each tire so that they’re resting perpendicular to the rubber on either side.\\nThe boards must be resting directly against the rubber of the tire without lifting your bike up off of the ground.\\nMake sure that the boards are roughly parallel with one another. They don’t need to be perfect, but they should be relatively straight.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure the distance between the boards from end to end.\", \"描述\": \"Grab a measuring tape and measure the distance from the exterior edge of 1 board to the exterior edge of the board on the other side. Note this measurement. Then, repeat this process on the opposite side to make sure that they match.\\nIf you get 2 different measurements on both sides, adjust the angle of each board to straighten them out and measure again to make sure that you get the same length on each side.\\nFor most bikes, this measurement should be roughly 20–30 inches (51–76 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create 2 boards out of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) piece to match your measurement.\", \"描述\": \"Take your 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) board and mark off your first cut based on the measurement between the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards on the ground. Cut this board the same way you cut the first set. Repeat this process again to create 2 boards of equal size.\\nFor example, if the distance between the 2 boards on the floor was 24 inches (61 cm), cut your 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) board into two 24 in (61 cm) pieces.\\nYou can trim a triangular piece out of the top of each board on each side if you’d like the stand to have a more aesthetically pleasing look.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards on the open sides of the tire.\", \"描述\": \"Take your boards to the bike and set them on top of the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards vertically so that they’re bracing the wheel on either side. Line the exterior edges of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards up with the wood planks on the floor so their sides are flush.\\nThis should look like you’re making a rectangle with 2 taller sides holding the tire in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Mark the edge where the boards meet with a pencil.\", \"描述\": \"Grab a carpentry pencil and trace the edges of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards on each of the 4 ends where they’re meeting the longer boards underneath. You will assemble the stand upside down, so extend your markings along the side of the longer boards so that you can see them when the pieces are upside down.\\nThe more references you can add for yourself, the better. Attaching the boards isn’t particularly hard but it can be kind of tricky to line the pieces up with one another.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Turn the pieces upside down and line the boards up with your marks.\", \"描述\": \"Set the entire set of boards upside down on the ground. Line the edges of the thinner boards up with the edges of the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards. Check the marks you made on the sides of the boards to ensure that the entire assembly matches the shape you set up on the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Drill the boards together with 4 in (10 cm) wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"Grab a set of with 4 in (10 cm) wood screws. Hold the first screw over the center of a junction where 2 boards meet. Carefully and slowly drive the drill through the 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) board and into the middle of the 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) piece. Continue drilling until the screw is flush with the wood. Repeat this process with the other 3 junctions where the boards meet.\\nIf you’re struggling to brace the boards while drilling, drill a pilot hole through both sets of boards before attaching the screws. Use a pilot bit slightly smaller than the screws you’re using.\\nYou can use wood glue to reinforce the seams between the boards if you’d like some extra support.\\nAlternatively, you can buy a new bike. Think about the purpose for which you will use it.\\nConsider whether you will use it for transportation, recreational rides, or fitness.\\nFind a bike that suits your budget and meets your needs.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,225 |
How to Build a Bird Table
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1. Constructing the Tabletop
1-1. Trim a large, ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick piece of wood to your desired size.
Use a measuring tape to mark out the desired size of your bird table tabletop. With a handsaw or circular saw, trim off any excess wood to bring your tabletop to the right size.
If you’re unsure, start with a tabletop roughly 12 by 18 inches (30 by 46 cm) in size.
The top of your table won’t need to support a large amount of weight, so any large sheet of wood should work.
Make sure the wood you use for the tabletop and all other parts of the table is properly weather treated. If it’s not, you can waterproof the wood yourself.
1-2. Cut 4 pieces of 1 by 1 in (2.5 by 2.5 cm) wood to make trim for the table.
Trim around the edges of the table will help prevent the bird food from being blown away. Cut 4 pieces of 1 by 1 in (2.5 by 2.5 cm) wood so that they are roughly 2 inches (5.1 cm) shorter than the each of the edges of your tabletop.
Making the trim shorter than the tabletop will allow water to drain off it when it rains.
If you’re making a table that is 12 by 18 inches (30 by 46 cm) in size, for example, you will need 2 pieces of trim 10 inches (25 cm) in length and 2 pieces that are 16 inches (41 cm) long.
1-3. Glue the wooden trim to the middle of each edge on the tabletop.
Use a tape measure to find and mark the middle of each side on your tabletop and each piece of trim wood. Cover one side of each piece of trim with a small amount of wood glue and press it onto the tabletop. The edge should be flush with the edge of the tabletop, and the 2 marks made should line up.
Use clamps to hold the wood in place as the glue dries fully.
Make sure that you put the smaller pieces of trim on the shorter sides of the table.
You should have a flat tabletop with trim around the edges, leaving a small gap between each piece of trim in the 4 corners.
The wood glue should be dry after around 30 minutes to 1 hour. Check the instructions on your specific brand of wood glue for further advice on drying times.
1-4. Screw the trim into place.
While the wood glue will hold the trim steady, it won’t be as long-lasting as screwing the trim in place. Use 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screws or deck screws to drill through the bottom of the tabletop and into the pieces of trim. Use 3 screws on each piece, with 1 in the middle and 1 roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) from each end.
To make sure the screws go into the wood straight, drill some pilot holes first. Use a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drill bit to drill a small hole through the bottom of the tabletop and roughly ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) into the trim.
2. Building the Base
2-1. Cut 2 pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to the length of the tabletop.
In order to ensure the bird table can stand properly, you will need a wide base to support it. Measure 2 pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to the largest dimension of your tabletop and cut it to this size.
If you’re making a bird table that is 30 by 50 inches (76 by 127 cm) in size, your 2 base pieces should be 50 inches (130 cm) in length.
This will make a very sturdy table, but you could also make the base smaller than this. Try finding a measurement between the 2 dimensions of your tabletop. Anything too much smaller than the shorter dimension may be too unsteady, but something halfway between should work well.
If you don’t want to make a base for your bird table, you could also screw it into the top of a wooden fence post installed somewhere in your yard.
2-2. Remove a 1 by 4 in (2.5 by 10.2 cm) notch from the center of each piece of wood.
Use a tape measure to find the middle of each piece of wood and mark a point 2 inches (5.1 cm) away from the middle in each direction. Use a circular saw, table saw, or even a handsaw to cut a notch into the 2 pieces of wood, 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in between the 2 marks you made.
This should leave you with a 4 in (10 cm) wide notch that goes halfway through each piece of wood.
2-3. Connect the 2 pieces of wood to create a cross.
Turn 1 piece of wood upside down and rotate it 90-degrees so that the 2 notches on the wood match up. Press the notches together and use a rubber or wooden mallet to knock them into each other. If the notches are cut correctly and this is done properly, you should have a flat cross of wood.
This will create a flat bottom on which the bird table can sit.
For extra stability, cover the inside of each notch with a little wood glue to hold the cross together.
2-4. Trim a 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) post to the desired height of your bird table.
The post is what will connect the base of the bird table to the tabletop itself. Measure a 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) post to be roughly 3 feet (91 cm) in length and use a saw to cut it to down to size. Make sure that the cut is as flat and straight as possible to avoid a crooked bird table.
If you have a different wooden post that you’d like to use, such as an old table leg or a different dimension of wood, this will work as well. Make sure it's not bigger than 4 by 4 inches (10 by 10 cm), or else it will overlap the wooden base.
2-5. Drill a pilot hole in the center of the post and the wooden cross.
Use a measuring tape to find and mark the middle of both the wooden post and the cross. Attach a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drillbit to an electric drill and drill through the center of the wooden cross. Repeat on the base of the wooden post, going roughly ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) into the post.
A pilot hole will help make sure that screws go in properly and that everything is lined up perfectly.
Rather than using a measuring tape, you can rule a straight line from each diagonal corner of the wooden post. The place where the 2 lines intersect is the center.
2-6. Screw the cross and the post together.
Turn the wooden post upside down so that the pilot hole is facing upward. Place the wooden cross over the post so that the pilot holes line up perfectly. Use an electric drill or screwdriver to screw in a 3 in (7.6 cm) deck or wood screw until it is flush with the bottom of the cross.
For extra stability, you could drill pilot holes and add additional screws in other corners of the post. This will prevent it from rotating, so make sure it is perfectly square with the base before doing so.
2-7. Cut 8 12 in (30 cm) pieces of 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) wood.
These will form the braces that will keep the post connecting the top and bottom of the table steady. Use a tape measure to mark 8 lengths of 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) wood at 12 inches (30 cm). Use a handsaw or something similar to cut them to size.
If you are using a smaller base or making a larger table, you may need braces of a different size. Position a ruler at a 45-degree angle between the post and brace. Adjust it until the length looks good relative to the size of your table and use that measurement instead.
2-8. Cut a 45-degree angle into each end of your cut wooden braces.
Working 1 piece at a time, clamp a wooden brace into a miter box or onto a circular saw that can cut on an angle. Set the saw or miter box to a 45-degree angle and begin cutting your braces. Repeat for each end of each brace until you have 8 even trapezoids.
If you don't have a miter box or circular saw, you could also mark a 45-degree line on the wood with a protractor and pencil. This won't be as accurate, but with a little extra sanding and some wood glue, it should still be functional.
2-9. Glue and screw the angled wood to each side of the post and cross.
Coat the angled sides of each piece of wood with a small amount of wood glue. Press each piece onto the faces of the cross and post to create a triangle with the corner between them. Screw 1 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screw through each end of the angled wood into the face of the post and into the cross.
It may help to drill pilot holes with a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drillbit first.
The screws should go through the angled wood at an angle so that they go into the post or the cross completely straight.
3. Assembling the Table
3-1. Drill a pilot hole through the center point of the tabletop and the wooden post.
Use a measuring tape to find and mark the center point of both the wooden tabletop and the post on which you’ll be mounting it. Use a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drill bit to drill through the center of the tabletop and the center of the wooden post.
This will help ensure that the tabletop is perfectly balanced on the post and perfectly centered.
You can also find the middle point of a post and the tabletop by drawing a straight line between each diagonal corner. The point where they intersect is the middle.
3-2. Glue and screw the tabletop to the wooden post.
Coat the top of the post with a small amount of wood glue. Place the tabletop onto the post so that the 2 pilot holes line up. Screw a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screw through the pilot hole in the tabletop and into the wooden post.
For extra stability, drill extra screws through the tabletop and into the post.
3-3. Sand down
Any sharp edges or splintering wood on the table may catch or hurt birds that try and eat from it. Use a medium grit sandpaper, around 120-grit, to sand down all exposed areas on your table to a smooth finish.
If you have an orbital sander available, it will make this process go much faster.
3-4. Stain
If the standard color of the wood you used doesn’t look great in your yard, you could stain or paint it a different color. Choose a paint or wood stain that is graded for external use and apply it to the bird table according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Make sure that whichever paint or stain you choose won’t be harmful to any birds. As they eat off the table, they may ingest small amounts of paint or stain, so make sure it is completely non-toxic.
3-5. Place the table in your yard and scatter birdseed over it.
Once the table is assembled and completely sanded, it’s ready to be displayed and used. Place the bird table in an exposed and easily accessible area of your yard or garden and scatter it with a few small handfuls of bird seed.
You can buy bird seed online or from your local pet store.
For extra stability, hammer some metal or wooden pegs into the ground on either side of each plank in the base of your table. Tie a piece of rope over each plank between the pegs to hold the table in stronger winds.
Tips
Choose a quiet location, away from pets, to place the bird table.
Keep bird tables clean. They should be cleaned daily, disinfected weekly and moved every now and then to prevent a build-up of bird droppings in the same spot.
Over time, you'll learn how much food to leave out for the birds, gauging this from what is left uneaten or how quickly the birds feed.
Warnings
Once you start putting birdseed on your table, many birds will come to rely on this source of food. If you want to cease feeding birds, do not do so until the warmer months, when finding food is much easier for the birds and they can safely wean themselves off your supply.
If you use any sealant, paint or varnish on the bird table, be certain it is bird safe. Many of the common stains, paints, polishes, and glues that humans can tolerate are poisonous to birds.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the Tabletop\\n1-1. Trim a large, ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick piece of wood to your desired size.\\nUse a measuring tape to mark out the desired size of your bird table tabletop. With a handsaw or circular saw, trim off any excess wood to bring your tabletop to the right size.\\nIf you’re unsure, start with a tabletop roughly 12 by 18 inches (30 by 46 cm) in size.\\nThe top of your table won’t need to support a large amount of weight, so any large sheet of wood should work.\\nMake sure the wood you use for the tabletop and all other parts of the table is properly weather treated. If it’s not, you can waterproof the wood yourself.\\n1-2. Cut 4 pieces of 1 by 1 in (2.5 by 2.5 cm) wood to make trim for the table.\\nTrim around the edges of the table will help prevent the bird food from being blown away. Cut 4 pieces of 1 by 1 in (2.5 by 2.5 cm) wood so that they are roughly 2 inches (5.1 cm) shorter than the each of the edges of your tabletop.\\nMaking the trim shorter than the tabletop will allow water to drain off it when it rains.\\nIf you’re making a table that is 12 by 18 inches (30 by 46 cm) in size, for example, you will need 2 pieces of trim 10 inches (25 cm) in length and 2 pieces that are 16 inches (41 cm) long.\\n1-3. Glue the wooden trim to the middle of each edge on the tabletop.\\nUse a tape measure to find and mark the middle of each side on your tabletop and each piece of trim wood. Cover one side of each piece of trim with a small amount of wood glue and press it onto the tabletop. The edge should be flush with the edge of the tabletop, and the 2 marks made should line up.\\nUse clamps to hold the wood in place as the glue dries fully.\\nMake sure that you put the smaller pieces of trim on the shorter sides of the table.\\nYou should have a flat tabletop with trim around the edges, leaving a small gap between each piece of trim in the 4 corners.\\nThe wood glue should be dry after around 30 minutes to 1 hour. Check the instructions on your specific brand of wood glue for further advice on drying times.\\n1-4. Screw the trim into place.\\nWhile the wood glue will hold the trim steady, it won’t be as long-lasting as screwing the trim in place. Use 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screws or deck screws to drill through the bottom of the tabletop and into the pieces of trim. Use 3 screws on each piece, with 1 in the middle and 1 roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) from each end.\\nTo make sure the screws go into the wood straight, drill some pilot holes first. Use a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drill bit to drill a small hole through the bottom of the tabletop and roughly ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) into the trim.\\n2. Building the Base\\n2-1. Cut 2 pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to the length of the tabletop.\\nIn order to ensure the bird table can stand properly, you will need a wide base to support it. Measure 2 pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to the largest dimension of your tabletop and cut it to this size.\\nIf you’re making a bird table that is 30 by 50 inches (76 by 127 cm) in size, your 2 base pieces should be 50 inches (130 cm) in length.\\nThis will make a very sturdy table, but you could also make the base smaller than this. Try finding a measurement between the 2 dimensions of your tabletop. Anything too much smaller than the shorter dimension may be too unsteady, but something halfway between should work well.\\nIf you don’t want to make a base for your bird table, you could also screw it into the top of a wooden fence post installed somewhere in your yard.\\n2-2. Remove a 1 by 4 in (2.5 by 10.2 cm) notch from the center of each piece of wood.\\nUse a tape measure to find the middle of each piece of wood and mark a point 2 inches (5.1 cm) away from the middle in each direction. Use a circular saw, table saw, or even a handsaw to cut a notch into the 2 pieces of wood, 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in between the 2 marks you made.\\nThis should leave you with a 4 in (10 cm) wide notch that goes halfway through each piece of wood.\\n2-3. Connect the 2 pieces of wood to create a cross.\\nTurn 1 piece of wood upside down and rotate it 90-degrees so that the 2 notches on the wood match up. Press the notches together and use a rubber or wooden mallet to knock them into each other. If the notches are cut correctly and this is done properly, you should have a flat cross of wood.\\nThis will create a flat bottom on which the bird table can sit.\\nFor extra stability, cover the inside of each notch with a little wood glue to hold the cross together.\\n2-4. Trim a 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) post to the desired height of your bird table.\\nThe post is what will connect the base of the bird table to the tabletop itself. Measure a 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) post to be roughly 3 feet (91 cm) in length and use a saw to cut it to down to size. Make sure that the cut is as flat and straight as possible to avoid a crooked bird table.\\nIf you have a different wooden post that you’d like to use, such as an old table leg or a different dimension of wood, this will work as well. Make sure it's not bigger than 4 by 4 inches (10 by 10 cm), or else it will overlap the wooden base.\\n2-5. Drill a pilot hole in the center of the post and the wooden cross.\\nUse a measuring tape to find and mark the middle of both the wooden post and the cross. Attach a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drillbit to an electric drill and drill through the center of the wooden cross. Repeat on the base of the wooden post, going roughly ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) into the post.\\nA pilot hole will help make sure that screws go in properly and that everything is lined up perfectly.\\nRather than using a measuring tape, you can rule a straight line from each diagonal corner of the wooden post. The place where the 2 lines intersect is the center.\\n2-6. Screw the cross and the post together.\\nTurn the wooden post upside down so that the pilot hole is facing upward. Place the wooden cross over the post so that the pilot holes line up perfectly. Use an electric drill or screwdriver to screw in a 3 in (7.6 cm) deck or wood screw until it is flush with the bottom of the cross.\\nFor extra stability, you could drill pilot holes and add additional screws in other corners of the post. This will prevent it from rotating, so make sure it is perfectly square with the base before doing so.\\n2-7. Cut 8 12 in (30 cm) pieces of 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) wood.\\nThese will form the braces that will keep the post connecting the top and bottom of the table steady. Use a tape measure to mark 8 lengths of 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) wood at 12 inches (30 cm). Use a handsaw or something similar to cut them to size.\\nIf you are using a smaller base or making a larger table, you may need braces of a different size. Position a ruler at a 45-degree angle between the post and brace. Adjust it until the length looks good relative to the size of your table and use that measurement instead.\\n2-8. Cut a 45-degree angle into each end of your cut wooden braces.\\nWorking 1 piece at a time, clamp a wooden brace into a miter box or onto a circular saw that can cut on an angle. Set the saw or miter box to a 45-degree angle and begin cutting your braces. Repeat for each end of each brace until you have 8 even trapezoids.\\nIf you don't have a miter box or circular saw, you could also mark a 45-degree line on the wood with a protractor and pencil. This won't be as accurate, but with a little extra sanding and some wood glue, it should still be functional.\\n2-9. Glue and screw the angled wood to each side of the post and cross.\\nCoat the angled sides of each piece of wood with a small amount of wood glue. Press each piece onto the faces of the cross and post to create a triangle with the corner between them. Screw 1 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screw through each end of the angled wood into the face of the post and into the cross.\\nIt may help to drill pilot holes with a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drillbit first.\\nThe screws should go through the angled wood at an angle so that they go into the post or the cross completely straight.\\n3. Assembling the Table\\n3-1. Drill a pilot hole through the center point of the tabletop and the wooden post.\\nUse a measuring tape to find and mark the center point of both the wooden tabletop and the post on which you’ll be mounting it. Use a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drill bit to drill through the center of the tabletop and the center of the wooden post.\\nThis will help ensure that the tabletop is perfectly balanced on the post and perfectly centered.\\nYou can also find the middle point of a post and the tabletop by drawing a straight line between each diagonal corner. The point where they intersect is the middle.\\n3-2. Glue and screw the tabletop to the wooden post.\\nCoat the top of the post with a small amount of wood glue. Place the tabletop onto the post so that the 2 pilot holes line up. Screw a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screw through the pilot hole in the tabletop and into the wooden post.\\nFor extra stability, drill extra screws through the tabletop and into the post.\\n3-3. Sand down\\nAny sharp edges or splintering wood on the table may catch or hurt birds that try and eat from it. Use a medium grit sandpaper, around 120-grit, to sand down all exposed areas on your table to a smooth finish.\\nIf you have an orbital sander available, it will make this process go much faster.\\n3-4. Stain\\nIf the standard color of the wood you used doesn’t look great in your yard, you could stain or paint it a different color. Choose a paint or wood stain that is graded for external use and apply it to the bird table according to the manufacturer’s instructions.\\nMake sure that whichever paint or stain you choose won’t be harmful to any birds. As they eat off the table, they may ingest small amounts of paint or stain, so make sure it is completely non-toxic.\\n3-5. Place the table in your yard and scatter birdseed over it.\\nOnce the table is assembled and completely sanded, it’s ready to be displayed and used. Place the bird table in an exposed and easily accessible area of your yard or garden and scatter it with a few small handfuls of bird seed.\\nYou can buy bird seed online or from your local pet store.\\nFor extra stability, hammer some metal or wooden pegs into the ground on either side of each plank in the base of your table. Tie a piece of rope over each plank between the pegs to hold the table in stronger winds.\\nTips\\nChoose a quiet location, away from pets, to place the bird table.\\nKeep bird tables clean. They should be cleaned daily, disinfected weekly and moved every now and then to prevent a build-up of bird droppings in the same spot.\\nOver time, you'll learn how much food to leave out for the birds, gauging this from what is left uneaten or how quickly the birds feed.\\nWarnings\\nOnce you start putting birdseed on your table, many birds will come to rely on this source of food. If you want to cease feeding birds, do not do so until the warmer months, when finding food is much easier for the birds and they can safely wean themselves off your supply.\\nIf you use any sealant, paint or varnish on the bird table, be certain it is bird safe. Many of the common stains, paints, polishes, and glues that humans can tolerate are poisonous to birds.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A bird table is a wonderful way to attract birds to your garden and keep them fed at the same time. While bird tables or other bird feeders are available to buy from your local hardware store, they’re easy to make with some wood and a little time. By constructing the tabletop and the base separately before combining them, you can put a beautiful and functional bird table together in an afternoon.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Tabletop\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Trim a large, ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick piece of wood to your desired size.\", \"描述\": \"Use a measuring tape to mark out the desired size of your bird table tabletop. With a handsaw or circular saw, trim off any excess wood to bring your tabletop to the right size.\\nIf you’re unsure, start with a tabletop roughly 12 by 18 inches (30 by 46 cm) in size.\\nThe top of your table won’t need to support a large amount of weight, so any large sheet of wood should work.\\nMake sure the wood you use for the tabletop and all other parts of the table is properly weather treated. If it’s not, you can waterproof the wood yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut 4 pieces of 1 by 1 in (2.5 by 2.5 cm) wood to make trim for the table.\", \"描述\": \"Trim around the edges of the table will help prevent the bird food from being blown away. Cut 4 pieces of 1 by 1 in (2.5 by 2.5 cm) wood so that they are roughly 2 inches (5.1 cm) shorter than the each of the edges of your tabletop.\\nMaking the trim shorter than the tabletop will allow water to drain off it when it rains.\\nIf you’re making a table that is 12 by 18 inches (30 by 46 cm) in size, for example, you will need 2 pieces of trim 10 inches (25 cm) in length and 2 pieces that are 16 inches (41 cm) long.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue the wooden trim to the middle of each edge on the tabletop.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tape measure to find and mark the middle of each side on your tabletop and each piece of trim wood. Cover one side of each piece of trim with a small amount of wood glue and press it onto the tabletop. The edge should be flush with the edge of the tabletop, and the 2 marks made should line up.\\nUse clamps to hold the wood in place as the glue dries fully.\\nMake sure that you put the smaller pieces of trim on the shorter sides of the table.\\nYou should have a flat tabletop with trim around the edges, leaving a small gap between each piece of trim in the 4 corners.\\nThe wood glue should be dry after around 30 minutes to 1 hour. Check the instructions on your specific brand of wood glue for further advice on drying times.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw the trim into place.\", \"描述\": \"While the wood glue will hold the trim steady, it won’t be as long-lasting as screwing the trim in place. Use 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screws or deck screws to drill through the bottom of the tabletop and into the pieces of trim. Use 3 screws on each piece, with 1 in the middle and 1 roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) from each end.\\nTo make sure the screws go into the wood straight, drill some pilot holes first. Use a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drill bit to drill a small hole through the bottom of the tabletop and roughly ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) into the trim.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to the length of the tabletop.\", \"描述\": \"In order to ensure the bird table can stand properly, you will need a wide base to support it. Measure 2 pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to the largest dimension of your tabletop and cut it to this size.\\nIf you’re making a bird table that is 30 by 50 inches (76 by 127 cm) in size, your 2 base pieces should be 50 inches (130 cm) in length.\\nThis will make a very sturdy table, but you could also make the base smaller than this. Try finding a measurement between the 2 dimensions of your tabletop. Anything too much smaller than the shorter dimension may be too unsteady, but something halfway between should work well.\\nIf you don’t want to make a base for your bird table, you could also screw it into the top of a wooden fence post installed somewhere in your yard.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove a 1 by 4 in (2.5 by 10.2 cm) notch from the center of each piece of wood.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tape measure to find the middle of each piece of wood and mark a point 2 inches (5.1 cm) away from the middle in each direction. Use a circular saw, table saw, or even a handsaw to cut a notch into the 2 pieces of wood, 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in between the 2 marks you made.\\nThis should leave you with a 4 in (10 cm) wide notch that goes halfway through each piece of wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the 2 pieces of wood to create a cross.\", \"描述\": \"Turn 1 piece of wood upside down and rotate it 90-degrees so that the 2 notches on the wood match up. Press the notches together and use a rubber or wooden mallet to knock them into each other. If the notches are cut correctly and this is done properly, you should have a flat cross of wood.\\nThis will create a flat bottom on which the bird table can sit.\\nFor extra stability, cover the inside of each notch with a little wood glue to hold the cross together.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Trim a 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) post to the desired height of your bird table.\", \"描述\": \"The post is what will connect the base of the bird table to the tabletop itself. Measure a 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) post to be roughly 3 feet (91 cm) in length and use a saw to cut it to down to size. Make sure that the cut is as flat and straight as possible to avoid a crooked bird table.\\nIf you have a different wooden post that you’d like to use, such as an old table leg or a different dimension of wood, this will work as well. Make sure it's not bigger than 4 by 4 inches (10 by 10 cm), or else it will overlap the wooden base.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill a pilot hole in the center of the post and the wooden cross.\", \"描述\": \"Use a measuring tape to find and mark the middle of both the wooden post and the cross. Attach a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drillbit to an electric drill and drill through the center of the wooden cross. Repeat on the base of the wooden post, going roughly ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) into the post.\\nA pilot hole will help make sure that screws go in properly and that everything is lined up perfectly.\\nRather than using a measuring tape, you can rule a straight line from each diagonal corner of the wooden post. The place where the 2 lines intersect is the center.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Screw the cross and the post together.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the wooden post upside down so that the pilot hole is facing upward. Place the wooden cross over the post so that the pilot holes line up perfectly. Use an electric drill or screwdriver to screw in a 3 in (7.6 cm) deck or wood screw until it is flush with the bottom of the cross.\\nFor extra stability, you could drill pilot holes and add additional screws in other corners of the post. This will prevent it from rotating, so make sure it is perfectly square with the base before doing so.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut 8 12 in (30 cm) pieces of 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) wood.\", \"描述\": \"These will form the braces that will keep the post connecting the top and bottom of the table steady. Use a tape measure to mark 8 lengths of 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) wood at 12 inches (30 cm). Use a handsaw or something similar to cut them to size.\\nIf you are using a smaller base or making a larger table, you may need braces of a different size. Position a ruler at a 45-degree angle between the post and brace. Adjust it until the length looks good relative to the size of your table and use that measurement instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut a 45-degree angle into each end of your cut wooden braces.\", \"描述\": \"Working 1 piece at a time, clamp a wooden brace into a miter box or onto a circular saw that can cut on an angle. Set the saw or miter box to a 45-degree angle and begin cutting your braces. Repeat for each end of each brace until you have 8 even trapezoids.\\nIf you don't have a miter box or circular saw, you could also mark a 45-degree line on the wood with a protractor and pencil. This won't be as accurate, but with a little extra sanding and some wood glue, it should still be functional.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Glue and screw the angled wood to each side of the post and cross.\", \"描述\": \"Coat the angled sides of each piece of wood with a small amount of wood glue. Press each piece onto the faces of the cross and post to create a triangle with the corner between them. Screw 1 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screw through each end of the angled wood into the face of the post and into the cross.\\nIt may help to drill pilot holes with a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drillbit first.\\nThe screws should go through the angled wood at an angle so that they go into the post or the cross completely straight.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Table\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drill a pilot hole through the center point of the tabletop and the wooden post.\", \"描述\": \"Use a measuring tape to find and mark the center point of both the wooden tabletop and the post on which you’ll be mounting it. Use a ⁄32 inch (0.24 cm) drill bit to drill through the center of the tabletop and the center of the wooden post.\\nThis will help ensure that the tabletop is perfectly balanced on the post and perfectly centered.\\nYou can also find the middle point of a post and the tabletop by drawing a straight line between each diagonal corner. The point where they intersect is the middle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Glue and screw the tabletop to the wooden post.\", \"描述\": \"Coat the top of the post with a small amount of wood glue. Place the tabletop onto the post so that the 2 pilot holes line up. Screw a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screw through the pilot hole in the tabletop and into the wooden post.\\nFor extra stability, drill extra screws through the tabletop and into the post.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sand down\", \"描述\": \"Any sharp edges or splintering wood on the table may catch or hurt birds that try and eat from it. Use a medium grit sandpaper, around 120-grit, to sand down all exposed areas on your table to a smooth finish.\\nIf you have an orbital sander available, it will make this process go much faster.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stain\", \"描述\": \"If the standard color of the wood you used doesn’t look great in your yard, you could stain or paint it a different color. Choose a paint or wood stain that is graded for external use and apply it to the bird table according to the manufacturer’s instructions.\\nMake sure that whichever paint or stain you choose won’t be harmful to any birds. As they eat off the table, they may ingest small amounts of paint or stain, so make sure it is completely non-toxic.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the table in your yard and scatter birdseed over it.\", \"描述\": \"Once the table is assembled and completely sanded, it’s ready to be displayed and used. Place the bird table in an exposed and easily accessible area of your yard or garden and scatter it with a few small handfuls of bird seed.\\nYou can buy bird seed online or from your local pet store.\\nFor extra stability, hammer some metal or wooden pegs into the ground on either side of each plank in the base of your table. Tie a piece of rope over each plank between the pegs to hold the table in stronger winds.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Choose a quiet location, away from pets, to place the bird table.\\n\", \"Keep bird tables clean. They should be cleaned daily, disinfected weekly and moved every now and then to prevent a build-up of bird droppings in the same spot.\\n\", \"Over time, you'll learn how much food to leave out for the birds, gauging this from what is left uneaten or how quickly the birds feed.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Once you start putting birdseed on your table, many birds will come to rely on this source of food. If you want to cease feeding birds, do not do so until the warmer months, when finding food is much easier for the birds and they can safely wean themselves off your supply.\\n\", \"If you use any sealant, paint or varnish on the bird table, be certain it is bird safe. Many of the common stains, paints, polishes, and glues that humans can tolerate are poisonous to birds.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,226 |
How to Build a Birdhouse
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1. Acquiring and Preparing the Materials
1-1. Purchase untreated wood that is 1 by 8 inches (2.5 cm × 20.3 cm) by 8 feet (240 cm) long.
Purchasing untreated and unpainted wood, such as cedar or cypress, will ensure that the birdhouse isn’t worn or damaged by weather. Buy this wood from a local hardware store and request these specific lengths and dimensions.
The 1x8in measurement refers to the width and thickness of the wood, and the 8 feet (2.4 m) measurement refers to the wood’s length.
Woods like cedar or cypress don’t rot and will last longer than other kinds.
If you do not have a saw at home, the hardware store employees can cut the wood to 8 feet (2.4 m) for you.
Untreated wood will also allow you to paint the birdhouse different colors later on.
1-2. Buy a box of galvanized screws.
Instead of using nails, which will loosen and make your birdcage fragile over time, galvanized screws will tightly seal your birdhouse. Purchase galvanized screws from your local hardware store or online.
Galvanized screws will need to be set with a drill, so consider purchasing one from the hardware store if you do not own one already.
1-3. Purchase C-clamps from a hardware store.
C-clamps will be used to secure the birdhouse while glue dries and while drilling the galvanized screws. These clamps are tighten with knobs that allow you to adjust the strength and pressure of the clamps. Ask a hardware store employee for help if you are having trouble identifying the C-clamps.
1-4. Cut the 1x8inch piece of wood into different parts.
Using a bandsaw, cut your large piece of wood into the parts listed below. You can use a regular saw and a ruler to cut the wood, or pay someone at the hardware store or lumberyard to cut the wood into the specific dimensions for you. At the end of the cutting, you should have seven different pieces of wood. The different cuts you will need are:
Two pieces that are 4 by 3.5 inches (10.2 by 8.9 cm) for the side walls.
A single piece that is 5 by 3.25 inches (12.7 by 8.3 cm) for the floor.
One piece that is 4.75 by 7 inches (12.1 by 17.8 cm) for the right side of the roof.
A piece that is 5.5 by 7 inches (14 by 18 cm) for the left side of the roof.
Two separate pieces that are 5 by 8 inches (13 by 20 cm) for the front and back walls.
1-5. Drill a hole that is 1 to 3 inches (2.5 to 7.6 cm) in circumference.
The front wall is one of the 5x8in pieces. This will be the place where the birds will enter the birdhouse. Depending on the size of the birds in your area, drill a hole that is between 1 and 3 inches (2.5 and 7.6 cm). Drill the hole into the top two thirds of the piece of wood.
Use a drill press to cut the hole, or have it professionally drilled at a hardware store.
1-6. Sand the edges of the newly drilled hole.
Once the hole is drilled, jagged shards of wood will be protruding out of the edges, making it dangerous for the bird to enter. Use a fine grit sandpaper, such as #220, to soften these edges. Go over the edges on both sides of the wood until they feel smooth to the touch.
The size of the hole that is drilled will determine what species of birds can and will enter.
2. Assembling the Birdhouse
2-1. Paint or stain the wood before you assemble the pieces.
Painting, staining, or any kind of finishing work should be done to each individual piece of wood before putting them together. Pick up some stain or natural looking paint from the hardware store. Apply the stain or paint with a paint brush and let it dry for as long as necessary.
Bright, flashy colors may scare off the birds and keep them from enjoying your birdhouse, so pick paints with neutral and natural tones.
Do not paint the inside of the birdhouse, as birds will peck at the inside and may digest the paint.
2-2. Place the 5x3.25in floor piece on a flat surface.
Whether you prefer to work on a workbench or on the ground, finding a flat surface is important. Lay out your tools on the surface so that they are easily reachable, and keep the other pieces of wood nearby.
Using a workbench or table will allow you to build the birdhouse without bending down or sitting on the floor.
2-3. Spread wood glue on the connecting edges of the birdhouse walls.
With a wooden stick or paint brush, spread the wood glue on the outward facing parts of the walls and connect them. Go one piece at a time until you have the four birdhouse walls glued together. Position the rough part of the wood on the inside of the birdhouse if the wood is untreated on one side.
2-4. Clamp the four walls of the birdhouse together and leave them to dry.
Attach the clamps to each corner, putting pressure on the connecting edges. After attaching the clamps to all four walls, the wood glue will need to cure for at least thirty minutes. Clamp the pieces of wood firmly, but be cautious not to damage the wood or crack the walls by screwing them too tightly.
The clamps put pressure on the wood and ensure that the glue sets properly.
2-5. Attach the floor piece with screws.
It is important to attach the bottom panel with screws so that you can clean the birdhouse when necessary. With small galvanized screws and a drill, set the floor panel even with the four walls and screw it in.
Do not glue the floor panel, as it will be difficult to access the inside of the birdhouse if you do.
2-6. Glue the wooden roof pieces to the four walls at a 90 degree angle.
The roof panels should overlap, with the left side (the longer piece) sitting higher than the right. Slope the roof panels, connecting the two pieces with wood glue and clamping them for thirty minutes prior to attaching them to the four walls.
Attach the clamps tightly so that they put pressure on the connecting edges of the roof.
The angled slope of the roof will keep water or snow from accumulating on top of the birdhouse.
2-7. Screw the roof panels into the walls.
After the glue has dried, use the galvanized screws to set the roof panels into the front and back walls. Align your screws with the outer edges of the birdhouse walls carefully. Drill through the roof panels and into the outer edges of the front and back walls until the roof panels feel firm and secure.
3. Finding the Right Place for the Birdhouse
3-1. Mount the birdhouse to a pole or to the side of a building.
Hanging your birdhouse from a branch or from your home is not recommended, as birds do not like when birdhouses sway in the wind. If there are poles or natural structures in the area, mount the birdhouse to one of them.
Mounting it to an existing metal pole, or drilling it into the side of a barn or wood building are both great ways to set up a birdhouse. Mounting the birdhouse to an existing metal pole also protects the birdhouse from predators.
3-2. Face the birdhouse east.
Although this is not a necessity, birds are more attracted to birdhouses that receive natural sunlight in the mornings. Facing the birdhouse toward the east will also keep it from getting too hot in the afternoon, especially during the summer months or in hotter climates.
3-3. Keep the birdhouse at least 5 feet (1.5 m) off the ground.
Mounting the birdhouse at this level will make it easier for you to clean it out when necessary, and will also keep it away from most predators. Do not hang or mount your birdhouse lower than 5 feet (1.5 m), but feel free to mount it as high as 12 feet (3.7 m).
The height range depends on the bird, so keep track of which birds are able to reach your birdhouse and make adjustments if need be.
3-4. Hang or set the birdhouse under an awning, roof overhang, or eaves.
Keeping your birdhouse safe from weather will ensure that it lasts and that the birds are protected from rain or snow while they visit. Whether you hang the birdhouse or set it on a pole, keep it under some kind of existing overhang to prevent it from being damaged.
Warnings
Do not put a perch on your birdhouse, as these will make it easier for predators to get inside.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Acquiring and Preparing the Materials\\n1-1. Purchase untreated wood that is 1 by 8 inches (2.5 cm × 20.3 cm) by 8 feet (240 cm) long.\\nPurchasing untreated and unpainted wood, such as cedar or cypress, will ensure that the birdhouse isn’t worn or damaged by weather. Buy this wood from a local hardware store and request these specific lengths and dimensions.\\nThe 1x8in measurement refers to the width and thickness of the wood, and the 8 feet (2.4 m) measurement refers to the wood’s length.\\nWoods like cedar or cypress don’t rot and will last longer than other kinds.\\nIf you do not have a saw at home, the hardware store employees can cut the wood to 8 feet (2.4 m) for you.\\nUntreated wood will also allow you to paint the birdhouse different colors later on.\\n1-2. Buy a box of galvanized screws.\\nInstead of using nails, which will loosen and make your birdcage fragile over time, galvanized screws will tightly seal your birdhouse. Purchase galvanized screws from your local hardware store or online.\\nGalvanized screws will need to be set with a drill, so consider purchasing one from the hardware store if you do not own one already.\\n1-3. Purchase C-clamps from a hardware store.\\nC-clamps will be used to secure the birdhouse while glue dries and while drilling the galvanized screws. These clamps are tighten with knobs that allow you to adjust the strength and pressure of the clamps. Ask a hardware store employee for help if you are having trouble identifying the C-clamps.\\n1-4. Cut the 1x8inch piece of wood into different parts.\\nUsing a bandsaw, cut your large piece of wood into the parts listed below. You can use a regular saw and a ruler to cut the wood, or pay someone at the hardware store or lumberyard to cut the wood into the specific dimensions for you. At the end of the cutting, you should have seven different pieces of wood. The different cuts you will need are:\\nTwo pieces that are 4 by 3.5 inches (10.2 by 8.9 cm) for the side walls.\\nA single piece that is 5 by 3.25 inches (12.7 by 8.3 cm) for the floor.\\nOne piece that is 4.75 by 7 inches (12.1 by 17.8 cm) for the right side of the roof.\\nA piece that is 5.5 by 7 inches (14 by 18 cm) for the left side of the roof.\\nTwo separate pieces that are 5 by 8 inches (13 by 20 cm) for the front and back walls.\\n1-5. Drill a hole that is 1 to 3 inches (2.5 to 7.6 cm) in circumference.\\nThe front wall is one of the 5x8in pieces. This will be the place where the birds will enter the birdhouse. Depending on the size of the birds in your area, drill a hole that is between 1 and 3 inches (2.5 and 7.6 cm). Drill the hole into the top two thirds of the piece of wood.\\nUse a drill press to cut the hole, or have it professionally drilled at a hardware store.\\n1-6. Sand the edges of the newly drilled hole.\\nOnce the hole is drilled, jagged shards of wood will be protruding out of the edges, making it dangerous for the bird to enter. Use a fine grit sandpaper, such as #220, to soften these edges. Go over the edges on both sides of the wood until they feel smooth to the touch.\\nThe size of the hole that is drilled will determine what species of birds can and will enter.\\n2. Assembling the Birdhouse\\n2-1. Paint or stain the wood before you assemble the pieces.\\nPainting, staining, or any kind of finishing work should be done to each individual piece of wood before putting them together. Pick up some stain or natural looking paint from the hardware store. Apply the stain or paint with a paint brush and let it dry for as long as necessary.\\nBright, flashy colors may scare off the birds and keep them from enjoying your birdhouse, so pick paints with neutral and natural tones.\\nDo not paint the inside of the birdhouse, as birds will peck at the inside and may digest the paint.\\n2-2. Place the 5x3.25in floor piece on a flat surface.\\nWhether you prefer to work on a workbench or on the ground, finding a flat surface is important. Lay out your tools on the surface so that they are easily reachable, and keep the other pieces of wood nearby.\\nUsing a workbench or table will allow you to build the birdhouse without bending down or sitting on the floor.\\n2-3. Spread wood glue on the connecting edges of the birdhouse walls.\\nWith a wooden stick or paint brush, spread the wood glue on the outward facing parts of the walls and connect them. Go one piece at a time until you have the four birdhouse walls glued together. Position the rough part of the wood on the inside of the birdhouse if the wood is untreated on one side.\\n2-4. Clamp the four walls of the birdhouse together and leave them to dry.\\nAttach the clamps to each corner, putting pressure on the connecting edges. After attaching the clamps to all four walls, the wood glue will need to cure for at least thirty minutes. Clamp the pieces of wood firmly, but be cautious not to damage the wood or crack the walls by screwing them too tightly.\\nThe clamps put pressure on the wood and ensure that the glue sets properly.\\n2-5. Attach the floor piece with screws.\\nIt is important to attach the bottom panel with screws so that you can clean the birdhouse when necessary. With small galvanized screws and a drill, set the floor panel even with the four walls and screw it in.\\nDo not glue the floor panel, as it will be difficult to access the inside of the birdhouse if you do.\\n2-6. Glue the wooden roof pieces to the four walls at a 90 degree angle.\\nThe roof panels should overlap, with the left side (the longer piece) sitting higher than the right. Slope the roof panels, connecting the two pieces with wood glue and clamping them for thirty minutes prior to attaching them to the four walls.\\nAttach the clamps tightly so that they put pressure on the connecting edges of the roof.\\nThe angled slope of the roof will keep water or snow from accumulating on top of the birdhouse.\\n2-7. Screw the roof panels into the walls.\\nAfter the glue has dried, use the galvanized screws to set the roof panels into the front and back walls. Align your screws with the outer edges of the birdhouse walls carefully. Drill through the roof panels and into the outer edges of the front and back walls until the roof panels feel firm and secure.\\n3. Finding the Right Place for the Birdhouse\\n3-1. Mount the birdhouse to a pole or to the side of a building.\\nHanging your birdhouse from a branch or from your home is not recommended, as birds do not like when birdhouses sway in the wind. If there are poles or natural structures in the area, mount the birdhouse to one of them.\\nMounting it to an existing metal pole, or drilling it into the side of a barn or wood building are both great ways to set up a birdhouse. Mounting the birdhouse to an existing metal pole also protects the birdhouse from predators.\\n3-2. Face the birdhouse east.\\nAlthough this is not a necessity, birds are more attracted to birdhouses that receive natural sunlight in the mornings. Facing the birdhouse toward the east will also keep it from getting too hot in the afternoon, especially during the summer months or in hotter climates.\\n3-3. Keep the birdhouse at least 5 feet (1.5 m) off the ground.\\nMounting the birdhouse at this level will make it easier for you to clean it out when necessary, and will also keep it away from most predators. Do not hang or mount your birdhouse lower than 5 feet (1.5 m), but feel free to mount it as high as 12 feet (3.7 m).\\nThe height range depends on the bird, so keep track of which birds are able to reach your birdhouse and make adjustments if need be.\\n3-4. Hang or set the birdhouse under an awning, roof overhang, or eaves.\\nKeeping your birdhouse safe from weather will ensure that it lasts and that the birds are protected from rain or snow while they visit. Whether you hang the birdhouse or set it on a pole, keep it under some kind of existing overhang to prevent it from being damaged.\\nWarnings\\nDo not put a perch on your birdhouse, as these will make it easier for predators to get inside.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you are making a birdhouse for your backyard or giving it to someone as a gift, nesting boxes are a great way to provide sanctuary and shelter to the birds that inhabit your area. Creating a solid, impenetrable birdhouse means using untreated wood, galvanized screws, and wood glue during construction. Also, providing the birds with a safe, predator-free environment means setting up the birdhouse in a high, difficult to reach place.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Acquiring and Preparing the Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase untreated wood that is 1 by 8 inches (2.5 cm × 20.3 cm) by 8 feet (240 cm) long.\", \"描述\": \"Purchasing untreated and unpainted wood, such as cedar or cypress, will ensure that the birdhouse isn’t worn or damaged by weather. Buy this wood from a local hardware store and request these specific lengths and dimensions.\\nThe 1x8in measurement refers to the width and thickness of the wood, and the 8 feet (2.4 m) measurement refers to the wood’s length.\\nWoods like cedar or cypress don’t rot and will last longer than other kinds.\\nIf you do not have a saw at home, the hardware store employees can cut the wood to 8 feet (2.4 m) for you.\\nUntreated wood will also allow you to paint the birdhouse different colors later on.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy a box of galvanized screws.\", \"描述\": \"Instead of using nails, which will loosen and make your birdcage fragile over time, galvanized screws will tightly seal your birdhouse. Purchase galvanized screws from your local hardware store or online.\\nGalvanized screws will need to be set with a drill, so consider purchasing one from the hardware store if you do not own one already.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase C-clamps from a hardware store.\", \"描述\": \"C-clamps will be used to secure the birdhouse while glue dries and while drilling the galvanized screws. These clamps are tighten with knobs that allow you to adjust the strength and pressure of the clamps. Ask a hardware store employee for help if you are having trouble identifying the C-clamps.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the 1x8inch piece of wood into different parts.\", \"描述\": \"Using a bandsaw, cut your large piece of wood into the parts listed below. You can use a regular saw and a ruler to cut the wood, or pay someone at the hardware store or lumberyard to cut the wood into the specific dimensions for you. At the end of the cutting, you should have seven different pieces of wood. The different cuts you will need are:\\nTwo pieces that are 4 by 3.5 inches (10.2 by 8.9 cm) for the side walls.\\nA single piece that is 5 by 3.25 inches (12.7 by 8.3 cm) for the floor.\\nOne piece that is 4.75 by 7 inches (12.1 by 17.8 cm) for the right side of the roof.\\nA piece that is 5.5 by 7 inches (14 by 18 cm) for the left side of the roof.\\nTwo separate pieces that are 5 by 8 inches (13 by 20 cm) for the front and back walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole that is 1 to 3 inches (2.5 to 7.6 cm) in circumference.\", \"描述\": \"The front wall is one of the 5x8in pieces. This will be the place where the birds will enter the birdhouse. Depending on the size of the birds in your area, drill a hole that is between 1 and 3 inches (2.5 and 7.6 cm). Drill the hole into the top two thirds of the piece of wood.\\nUse a drill press to cut the hole, or have it professionally drilled at a hardware store.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Sand the edges of the newly drilled hole.\", \"描述\": \"Once the hole is drilled, jagged shards of wood will be protruding out of the edges, making it dangerous for the bird to enter. Use a fine grit sandpaper, such as #220, to soften these edges. Go over the edges on both sides of the wood until they feel smooth to the touch.\\nThe size of the hole that is drilled will determine what species of birds can and will enter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Birdhouse\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Paint or stain the wood before you assemble the pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Painting, staining, or any kind of finishing work should be done to each individual piece of wood before putting them together. Pick up some stain or natural looking paint from the hardware store. Apply the stain or paint with a paint brush and let it dry for as long as necessary.\\nBright, flashy colors may scare off the birds and keep them from enjoying your birdhouse, so pick paints with neutral and natural tones.\\nDo not paint the inside of the birdhouse, as birds will peck at the inside and may digest the paint.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the 5x3.25in floor piece on a flat surface.\", \"描述\": \"Whether you prefer to work on a workbench or on the ground, finding a flat surface is important. Lay out your tools on the surface so that they are easily reachable, and keep the other pieces of wood nearby.\\nUsing a workbench or table will allow you to build the birdhouse without bending down or sitting on the floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Spread wood glue on the connecting edges of the birdhouse walls.\", \"描述\": \"With a wooden stick or paint brush, spread the wood glue on the outward facing parts of the walls and connect them. Go one piece at a time until you have the four birdhouse walls glued together. Position the rough part of the wood on the inside of the birdhouse if the wood is untreated on one side.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Clamp the four walls of the birdhouse together and leave them to dry.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the clamps to each corner, putting pressure on the connecting edges. After attaching the clamps to all four walls, the wood glue will need to cure for at least thirty minutes. Clamp the pieces of wood firmly, but be cautious not to damage the wood or crack the walls by screwing them too tightly.\\nThe clamps put pressure on the wood and ensure that the glue sets properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the floor piece with screws.\", \"描述\": \"It is important to attach the bottom panel with screws so that you can clean the birdhouse when necessary. With small galvanized screws and a drill, set the floor panel even with the four walls and screw it in.\\nDo not glue the floor panel, as it will be difficult to access the inside of the birdhouse if you do.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Glue the wooden roof pieces to the four walls at a 90 degree angle.\", \"描述\": \"The roof panels should overlap, with the left side (the longer piece) sitting higher than the right. Slope the roof panels, connecting the two pieces with wood glue and clamping them for thirty minutes prior to attaching them to the four walls.\\nAttach the clamps tightly so that they put pressure on the connecting edges of the roof.\\nThe angled slope of the roof will keep water or snow from accumulating on top of the birdhouse.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Screw the roof panels into the walls.\", \"描述\": \"After the glue has dried, use the galvanized screws to set the roof panels into the front and back walls. Align your screws with the outer edges of the birdhouse walls carefully. Drill through the roof panels and into the outer edges of the front and back walls until the roof panels feel firm and secure.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finding the Right Place for the Birdhouse\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mount the birdhouse to a pole or to the side of a building.\", \"描述\": \"Hanging your birdhouse from a branch or from your home is not recommended, as birds do not like when birdhouses sway in the wind. If there are poles or natural structures in the area, mount the birdhouse to one of them.\\nMounting it to an existing metal pole, or drilling it into the side of a barn or wood building are both great ways to set up a birdhouse. Mounting the birdhouse to an existing metal pole also protects the birdhouse from predators.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Face the birdhouse east.\", \"描述\": \"Although this is not a necessity, birds are more attracted to birdhouses that receive natural sunlight in the mornings. Facing the birdhouse toward the east will also keep it from getting too hot in the afternoon, especially during the summer months or in hotter climates.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep the birdhouse at least 5 feet (1.5 m) off the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Mounting the birdhouse at this level will make it easier for you to clean it out when necessary, and will also keep it away from most predators. Do not hang or mount your birdhouse lower than 5 feet (1.5 m), but feel free to mount it as high as 12 feet (3.7 m).\\nThe height range depends on the bird, so keep track of which birds are able to reach your birdhouse and make adjustments if need be.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Hang or set the birdhouse under an awning, roof overhang, or eaves.\", \"描述\": \"Keeping your birdhouse safe from weather will ensure that it lasts and that the birds are protected from rain or snow while they visit. Whether you hang the birdhouse or set it on a pole, keep it under some kind of existing overhang to prevent it from being damaged.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not put a perch on your birdhouse, as these will make it easier for predators to get inside.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,227 |
How to Build a Blair Latrine
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1. Steps
1-1. Select a suitable site that is at least 30 meters (98.4 ft) from wells or bore holes.
This will help to ensure that human waste doesn't end up in the water supply.
1-2. Dig a pit in the ground.
Make the pit 1.3 meters (4.3 ft) wide and 3 meters (9.8 ft) deep.
1-3. Line the pit around with bricks.
Mortar the bricks in place with cement. Use a trowel to neaten the mortar and remove excess mortar.
1-4. Cover the completed brick pit with a round cement slab the same diameter as the hole (1.3 metres wide).
The slab needs to have one hole for ventilation via a chimney and another hole to squat over. Cut these out before sealing the slab in place.
1-5. Seal the gap between the slab and the pit well.
Use cement mortar again. Sealing it is vital because it will trap any flies and prevent them from congregating.
1-6. Build brick walls around the toilet base.
This is for privacy.
1-7. Attach a chimney to the ventilation hole and bring it up through the roof of the toilet.
This ensures that dangerous odors and gases are ventilated upward and out into the air away from ground level.Place fly screen material over the top of the chimney.
1-8. Plaster the outer walls and chimney with adobe.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Select a suitable site that is at least 30 meters (98.4 ft) from wells or bore holes.\\nThis will help to ensure that human waste doesn't end up in the water supply.\\n1-2. Dig a pit in the ground.\\nMake the pit 1.3 meters (4.3 ft) wide and 3 meters (9.8 ft) deep.\\n1-3. Line the pit around with bricks.\\nMortar the bricks in place with cement. Use a trowel to neaten the mortar and remove excess mortar.\\n1-4. Cover the completed brick pit with a round cement slab the same diameter as the hole (1.3 metres wide).\\nThe slab needs to have one hole for ventilation via a chimney and another hole to squat over. Cut these out before sealing the slab in place.\\n1-5. Seal the gap between the slab and the pit well.\\nUse cement mortar again. Sealing it is vital because it will trap any flies and prevent them from congregating.\\n1-6. Build brick walls around the toilet base.\\nThis is for privacy.\\n1-7. Attach a chimney to the ventilation hole and bring it up through the roof of the toilet.\\nThis ensures that dangerous odors and gases are ventilated upward and out into the air away from ground level.Place fly screen material over the top of the chimney.\\n1-8. Plaster the outer walls and chimney with adobe.\\n\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The Blair latrine was invented by Dr Peter Morgan from the Blair Institute. It features an odorless and fly-free squat toilet suitable for many villages in places like Africa where sanitation is vital and the lack of plumbing makes it difficult to install modern toilets. Here is how to build a Blair latrine.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select a suitable site that is at least 30 meters (98.4 ft) from wells or bore holes.\", \"描述\": \"This will help to ensure that human waste doesn't end up in the water supply.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig a pit in the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Make the pit 1.3 meters (4.3 ft) wide and 3 meters (9.8 ft) deep.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Line the pit around with bricks.\", \"描述\": \"Mortar the bricks in place with cement. Use a trowel to neaten the mortar and remove excess mortar.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the completed brick pit with a round cement slab the same diameter as the hole (1.3 metres wide).\", \"描述\": \"The slab needs to have one hole for ventilation via a chimney and another hole to squat over. Cut these out before sealing the slab in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Seal the gap between the slab and the pit well.\", \"描述\": \"Use cement mortar again. Sealing it is vital because it will trap any flies and prevent them from congregating.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build brick walls around the toilet base.\", \"描述\": \"This is for privacy.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach a chimney to the ventilation hole and bring it up through the roof of the toilet.\", \"描述\": \"This ensures that dangerous odors and gases are ventilated upward and out into the air away from ground level.Place fly screen material over the top of the chimney.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Plaster the outer walls and chimney with adobe.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,228 |
How to Build a Blimp
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1. Building the Blimp Bag
1-1. Fold, cut, and rub the bag material.
Fold your mylar or other bag material over so that the shiny side faces outward. Have the top layer overlap the bottom by 33 inches (84 cm) and cut away extra bag material so that your bag is 33 inches (84 cm) by 38 inches (97 cm). Finally, rub the folded bag material with a terry cloth towel to remove wrinkles and any trapped air.
You can make your bag out of mylar or latex; however, mylar is more malleable and thus can be made into a more aerodynamic shape than latex can. You can buy a mylar blanket from a camping or sporting goods store.
If you don’t want to build your own blimp bag, you can also buy a mylar balloon off the shelf. Just make sure it meets the dimensions above.
1-2. Iron seams along the sides of the bag, leaving space for a fill spout.
Mark a bottom border 32 inches (81 cm) from the top fold line with a yardstick and felt tip pen. Place the yardstick along the left side of the material, leaving .5 inches (1.3 cm) of room. Iron a seam alongside the yardstick with a continuous sweeping motion.
Repeat this process for the right and bottom sides of the material, making sure to leave room for a fill spout the size of a plastic drinking straw in the bottom left corner.
When you’re finished, flip the bag over and repeat this ironing process on the opposite side.
Place 2 pieces of clear packing tape along the sides of the fill spout. The tape gives the fill spout extra protection.
1-3. Test the blimp bag for holes or leaks.
Insert a drinking straw into the fill spout and fill the blimp bag partway with air. Tape the spout to seal it, then leave the bag alone for 1 hour. If its size remains the same after an hour, it has no leaks.
If you have a leak, locate it by shining a light on one side of the balloon and looking through the other side to look for light shining through. Make sure you do this in a darkened room.
You can patch holes in the balloon with adhesive tape or remove the air from the bag and redo any seams that are leaking.
Remove all the air from the balloon before repairing any leaks that are more than .25 inches (0.64 cm) in diameter.
1-4. Fill the blimp bag with helium from a helium tank.
Once you’ve made sure your balloon bag has no leaks, it’s time to inflate it. Place the fill spout on the nozzle of the helium tank and hold it firmly with one hand. With the other hand, press on the nozzle to release helium into the balloon. Once the balloon is sufficiently filled, tape the fill spout closed.
You only need to fill the bag with enough helium for it to start floating. Don’t feel compelled to inflate it to the greatest possible extent.
You can buy a helium tank for filling balloons at many balloon and party shops. If you’d rather not buy a tank, take your bag to a balloon shop and have them fill it for you.
2. Assembling the Lower Half
2-1. Create a battery mount on a metal rod.
Attach one piece of Scotch tape to half of another, sticky side to sticky side, leaving a non-stick area at least as long the circumference of your battery. Attach this piece of combined tape perpendicularly near the front end of your rod and fold it closed, leaving a loop that is big enough for the battery to slide in and out.
You should place this loop roughly ¼ of the way from the aft side of the rod.
2-2. Attach a motor and propeller to the front of the rod.
Use elastic bands to attach your servo motor to the front end of the rod. Make sure it is directed forward (in the direction of motion) and attach your propeller to it. Once you’re comfortable with the positioning, lock the motor in place with superglue.
After it’s locked in place, use leads to attach the motor to the battery.
2-3. Tape the rod and ballast to the balloon.
Use 2 pieces of Scotch tape to attach the rod to the bottom of the balloon bag, making sure to maintain the integrity of the wiring. Then, use Scotch tape to attach some ballast (e.g., a couple of small coins) to the bottom of the blimp so that it will descend when it isn’t powered.
2-4. Add a tail fin to make your blimp fly smoothly.
Having tail fin on your blimp will ensure it flies in a straight direction. Attach a small piece of cardboard or Depron to the rear of the blimp using 2 pieces of Scotch tape.
Attach your tail fin to hang downward in order to help protect your propeller from hitting the floor.
To make sure your blimp will still float, hold it in the air after you’ve attached the tail fin and carefully loosen your grip until you’re no longer holding on to it. If it doesn’t stay buoyant, you’ll need to reduce the weight of the fin.
2-5. Flip the power switch on your motor to start your blimp.
Once your blimp is fully assembled and you’ve made sure it’s buoyant, it’s ready to fly. Holding the blimp in the air, turn on the motors that your batteries are connected to to start the propellers. Then, gradually loosen your grip until you’re no longer holding on to it and watch it fly.
Tips
You may be able to make tail-fins and a rudder from light balsa wood or Styrofoam and a light, adhesive, plastic shrink wrap used in building model aircraft.
Airships, also called dirigibles, are categorized as rigid, semi-rigid or non-rigid. Rigid airships, such as the Hindenburg, had an internal frame structure. Semi-rigid airships usually had a rigid lower keel attached to or hung beneath the gas-filled envelope. Non-rigid airships-blimps-are the most popular type today.
If you want to control your blimp, you can remove the motors and remote control receiver from a small RC car and attach them along with some propellers and a AAA battery to your blimp; just make sure it's still light enough to fly!
Warnings
Do not fly blimps with metalized nylon blimp bags into power lines. Doing so could cause a severe power outage.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Blimp Bag\\n1-1. Fold, cut, and rub the bag material.\\nFold your mylar or other bag material over so that the shiny side faces outward. Have the top layer overlap the bottom by 33 inches (84 cm) and cut away extra bag material so that your bag is 33 inches (84 cm) by 38 inches (97 cm). Finally, rub the folded bag material with a terry cloth towel to remove wrinkles and any trapped air.\\nYou can make your bag out of mylar or latex; however, mylar is more malleable and thus can be made into a more aerodynamic shape than latex can. You can buy a mylar blanket from a camping or sporting goods store.\\nIf you don’t want to build your own blimp bag, you can also buy a mylar balloon off the shelf. Just make sure it meets the dimensions above.\\n1-2. Iron seams along the sides of the bag, leaving space for a fill spout.\\nMark a bottom border 32 inches (81 cm) from the top fold line with a yardstick and felt tip pen. Place the yardstick along the left side of the material, leaving .5 inches (1.3 cm) of room. Iron a seam alongside the yardstick with a continuous sweeping motion.\\nRepeat this process for the right and bottom sides of the material, making sure to leave room for a fill spout the size of a plastic drinking straw in the bottom left corner.\\nWhen you’re finished, flip the bag over and repeat this ironing process on the opposite side.\\nPlace 2 pieces of clear packing tape along the sides of the fill spout. The tape gives the fill spout extra protection.\\n1-3. Test the blimp bag for holes or leaks.\\nInsert a drinking straw into the fill spout and fill the blimp bag partway with air. Tape the spout to seal it, then leave the bag alone for 1 hour. If its size remains the same after an hour, it has no leaks.\\nIf you have a leak, locate it by shining a light on one side of the balloon and looking through the other side to look for light shining through. Make sure you do this in a darkened room.\\nYou can patch holes in the balloon with adhesive tape or remove the air from the bag and redo any seams that are leaking.\\nRemove all the air from the balloon before repairing any leaks that are more than .25 inches (0.64 cm) in diameter.\\n1-4. Fill the blimp bag with helium from a helium tank.\\nOnce you’ve made sure your balloon bag has no leaks, it’s time to inflate it. Place the fill spout on the nozzle of the helium tank and hold it firmly with one hand. With the other hand, press on the nozzle to release helium into the balloon. Once the balloon is sufficiently filled, tape the fill spout closed.\\nYou only need to fill the bag with enough helium for it to start floating. Don’t feel compelled to inflate it to the greatest possible extent.\\nYou can buy a helium tank for filling balloons at many balloon and party shops. If you’d rather not buy a tank, take your bag to a balloon shop and have them fill it for you.\\n2. Assembling the Lower Half\\n2-1. Create a battery mount on a metal rod.\\nAttach one piece of Scotch tape to half of another, sticky side to sticky side, leaving a non-stick area at least as long the circumference of your battery. Attach this piece of combined tape perpendicularly near the front end of your rod and fold it closed, leaving a loop that is big enough for the battery to slide in and out.\\nYou should place this loop roughly ¼ of the way from the aft side of the rod.\\n2-2. Attach a motor and propeller to the front of the rod.\\nUse elastic bands to attach your servo motor to the front end of the rod. Make sure it is directed forward (in the direction of motion) and attach your propeller to it. Once you’re comfortable with the positioning, lock the motor in place with superglue.\\nAfter it’s locked in place, use leads to attach the motor to the battery.\\n2-3. Tape the rod and ballast to the balloon.\\nUse 2 pieces of Scotch tape to attach the rod to the bottom of the balloon bag, making sure to maintain the integrity of the wiring. Then, use Scotch tape to attach some ballast (e.g., a couple of small coins) to the bottom of the blimp so that it will descend when it isn’t powered.\\n2-4. Add a tail fin to make your blimp fly smoothly.\\nHaving tail fin on your blimp will ensure it flies in a straight direction. Attach a small piece of cardboard or Depron to the rear of the blimp using 2 pieces of Scotch tape.\\nAttach your tail fin to hang downward in order to help protect your propeller from hitting the floor.\\nTo make sure your blimp will still float, hold it in the air after you’ve attached the tail fin and carefully loosen your grip until you’re no longer holding on to it. If it doesn’t stay buoyant, you’ll need to reduce the weight of the fin.\\n2-5. Flip the power switch on your motor to start your blimp.\\nOnce your blimp is fully assembled and you’ve made sure it’s buoyant, it’s ready to fly. Holding the blimp in the air, turn on the motors that your batteries are connected to to start the propellers. Then, gradually loosen your grip until you’re no longer holding on to it and watch it fly.\\nTips\\nYou may be able to make tail-fins and a rudder from light balsa wood or Styrofoam and a light, adhesive, plastic shrink wrap used in building model aircraft.\\nAirships, also called dirigibles, are categorized as rigid, semi-rigid or non-rigid. Rigid airships, such as the Hindenburg, had an internal frame structure. Semi-rigid airships usually had a rigid lower keel attached to or hung beneath the gas-filled envelope. Non-rigid airships-blimps-are the most popular type today.\\nIf you want to control your blimp, you can remove the motors and remote control receiver from a small RC car and attach them along with some propellers and a AAA battery to your blimp; just make sure it's still light enough to fly!\\nWarnings\\nDo not fly blimps with metalized nylon blimp bags into power lines. Doing so could cause a severe power outage.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a blimp, whether as a science fair project or just as a way to spend an afternoon, is a fun do-it-yourself activity that anybody of almost any age can enjoy. Blimps are relatively simple flying machines; they use a gas that is lighter than air, such as helium, in order to be able to float, while using motored propellers on a bottom structure to move forwards and backwards. By building your own blimp bag out of mylar, filling it with helium, and attaching it to a motorized bottom, you can construct your own relatively inexpensive indoor blimp.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Blimp Bag\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fold, cut, and rub the bag material.\", \"描述\": \"Fold your mylar or other bag material over so that the shiny side faces outward. Have the top layer overlap the bottom by 33 inches (84 cm) and cut away extra bag material so that your bag is 33 inches (84 cm) by 38 inches (97 cm). Finally, rub the folded bag material with a terry cloth towel to remove wrinkles and any trapped air.\\nYou can make your bag out of mylar or latex; however, mylar is more malleable and thus can be made into a more aerodynamic shape than latex can. You can buy a mylar blanket from a camping or sporting goods store.\\nIf you don’t want to build your own blimp bag, you can also buy a mylar balloon off the shelf. Just make sure it meets the dimensions above.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Iron seams along the sides of the bag, leaving space for a fill spout.\", \"描述\": \"Mark a bottom border 32 inches (81 cm) from the top fold line with a yardstick and felt tip pen. Place the yardstick along the left side of the material, leaving .5 inches (1.3 cm) of room. Iron a seam alongside the yardstick with a continuous sweeping motion.\\nRepeat this process for the right and bottom sides of the material, making sure to leave room for a fill spout the size of a plastic drinking straw in the bottom left corner.\\nWhen you’re finished, flip the bag over and repeat this ironing process on the opposite side.\\nPlace 2 pieces of clear packing tape along the sides of the fill spout. The tape gives the fill spout extra protection.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Test the blimp bag for holes or leaks.\", \"描述\": \"Insert a drinking straw into the fill spout and fill the blimp bag partway with air. Tape the spout to seal it, then leave the bag alone for 1 hour. If its size remains the same after an hour, it has no leaks.\\nIf you have a leak, locate it by shining a light on one side of the balloon and looking through the other side to look for light shining through. Make sure you do this in a darkened room.\\nYou can patch holes in the balloon with adhesive tape or remove the air from the bag and redo any seams that are leaking.\\nRemove all the air from the balloon before repairing any leaks that are more than .25 inches (0.64 cm) in diameter.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill the blimp bag with helium from a helium tank.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve made sure your balloon bag has no leaks, it’s time to inflate it. Place the fill spout on the nozzle of the helium tank and hold it firmly with one hand. With the other hand, press on the nozzle to release helium into the balloon. Once the balloon is sufficiently filled, tape the fill spout closed.\\nYou only need to fill the bag with enough helium for it to start floating. Don’t feel compelled to inflate it to the greatest possible extent.\\nYou can buy a helium tank for filling balloons at many balloon and party shops. If you’d rather not buy a tank, take your bag to a balloon shop and have them fill it for you.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Lower Half\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a battery mount on a metal rod.\", \"描述\": \"Attach one piece of Scotch tape to half of another, sticky side to sticky side, leaving a non-stick area at least as long the circumference of your battery. Attach this piece of combined tape perpendicularly near the front end of your rod and fold it closed, leaving a loop that is big enough for the battery to slide in and out.\\nYou should place this loop roughly ¼ of the way from the aft side of the rod.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach a motor and propeller to the front of the rod.\", \"描述\": \"Use elastic bands to attach your servo motor to the front end of the rod. Make sure it is directed forward (in the direction of motion) and attach your propeller to it. Once you’re comfortable with the positioning, lock the motor in place with superglue.\\nAfter it’s locked in place, use leads to attach the motor to the battery.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tape the rod and ballast to the balloon.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2 pieces of Scotch tape to attach the rod to the bottom of the balloon bag, making sure to maintain the integrity of the wiring. Then, use Scotch tape to attach some ballast (e.g., a couple of small coins) to the bottom of the blimp so that it will descend when it isn’t powered.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a tail fin to make your blimp fly smoothly.\", \"描述\": \"Having tail fin on your blimp will ensure it flies in a straight direction. Attach a small piece of cardboard or Depron to the rear of the blimp using 2 pieces of Scotch tape.\\nAttach your tail fin to hang downward in order to help protect your propeller from hitting the floor.\\nTo make sure your blimp will still float, hold it in the air after you’ve attached the tail fin and carefully loosen your grip until you’re no longer holding on to it. If it doesn’t stay buoyant, you’ll need to reduce the weight of the fin.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Flip the power switch on your motor to start your blimp.\", \"描述\": \"Once your blimp is fully assembled and you’ve made sure it’s buoyant, it’s ready to fly. Holding the blimp in the air, turn on the motors that your batteries are connected to to start the propellers. Then, gradually loosen your grip until you’re no longer holding on to it and watch it fly.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You may be able to make tail-fins and a rudder from light balsa wood or Styrofoam and a light, adhesive, plastic shrink wrap used in building model aircraft.\\n\", \"Airships, also called dirigibles, are categorized as rigid, semi-rigid or non-rigid. Rigid airships, such as the Hindenburg, had an internal frame structure. Semi-rigid airships usually had a rigid lower keel attached to or hung beneath the gas-filled envelope. Non-rigid airships-blimps-are the most popular type today.\\n\", \"If you want to control your blimp, you can remove the motors and remote control receiver from a small RC car and attach them along with some propellers and a AAA battery to your blimp; just make sure it's still light enough to fly!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not fly blimps with metalized nylon blimp bags into power lines. Doing so could cause a severe power outage.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,229 |
How to Build a Blinking Light Circuit Using Basic Components
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1. Building a Simple Circuit Manually
1-1. Buy all the required materials.
You will need 100 Kiloohms Trimmer (Breadboard potentiometer), two 9 Volts batteries, 22 Microfarad Capacitor, one LED light (can be Red, Blue, Green, or White), Breadboard, two 1 Kilohms resistors, one 100 ohms resistor, LM 741 Amplifier, and jumping wires.
1-2. Read the manual that comes with the amplifier.
The purpose of this step is to learn how the pins are numbered on the amplifier. Usually, the first pin is located on the top left corner (there is usually a little dot to indicate it), and the 8th pin is located on the top right corner.
pin number 2 is called the inverting input.
pin number 3 is called the non- inverting input.
pin number 6 is the amplifier output.
pin number 4 and pin number 7 are used to power up the circuit.
1-3. Read the manual that comes with the breadboard.
The purpose of this step is to fully understand how the breadboard works:
Usually the rows are connected.
The ground is located at one of the sides.
Some breadboards have different segments, so it’s a good idea to read the manual before building.
1-4. Place the amplifier in the middle of the breadboard.
The purpose of placing the amplifier in the middle is to have enough space to work with on the top and the bottom. Make sure the little dot on the amplifier is on the top right corner to make identifying pins easier.
1-5. Place the trimmer on the breadboard.
Note that the trimmer has three pins. However, only the middle and one of the side pins will be used. Make sure that each pin is placed on a different row.
1-6. Connect the capacitor to pin number 2 on the amplifier.
Note: some capacitors are polarized (the two leads of the capacitor have different lengths).
Connect the longer lead to pin number 2 on the amplifier.
Connect the shorter lead to the ground (using jumping wires may be required, it depends how far is the ground pins).
If the capacitor is not polarized, both leads will have the same length.
1-7. Connect the pins for the potentiometer by using jumping wires.
Connect the middle pin on the potentiometer to pin number 2 on the amplifier.
Make sure that pin number 2 of the amplifier, one side of the capacitor, and the middle pin of the potentiometer are connected on the same row.
Connect one of the potentiometer’s side pins to pin number 6 of the amplifier (output pin).
The remaining pin is unused.
1-8. Place one of 1 kiloohms resistors on the beadboard.
All resistors have two sides.
Connect the first side to pin number 6, and the second side to any close empty row.
1-9. Place the second 1 kiloohms resistor on the breadboard.
Connect one side to the same row as the first 1 kiloohms resistor (to the same close empty row).
Connect the second side to the ground (using jumping wire may be necessary because the resistor is not long enough).
1-10. Place the 100 ohms resistor on the breadboard.
Choose two empty rows in between the two the 1 kiloohms resistors and connect the 100 kiloohms resistor across of them.
By using a jumping wire, connect the bottom row to the ground.
1-11. Place a jumping wire between the row where the two 1 kiloohms resistors intersect and pin number 3.
1-12. Place the LED light on the breadboard.
Connect the longer lead to pin number 6, and the shorter lead to the same top row for the 100 kiloohms resistor.
1-13. Power up the circuit by using two 9 volts batteries.
Connect the negative side of the first battery to pin number 4 and the positive side to the ground. Connect the positive side of the second battery to the to pin number 7 and the negative side to the ground.
1-14. Turn the knob on the potentiometer to speed up or slow down the blinking.
By turning the potentiometer, the total resistance will be changed and that will change the charging and discharging frequency for the capacitor.
2. Using Multisim Software
2-1. Place the LM 741 I the middle of the screen.
To place any components in Multisim, click on “place components” in the toolbar, then click on the search button on the side, after selecting the component, double click on it to place it on the screen.
2-2. Place the capacitor on the screen.
If 22 microfarad is not found, place any capacitor, then double click on it to change the value.
2-3. Place a common ground or multiple grounds.
to place the ground, go to " place components" and find it under " Power sources".
2-4. Double click on the screen to get virtual wires.
Double click on the screen at the starting point, then move the cursor to the ending point then click the mouse again. This method has to be used for all required connections.
2-5. Connect the capacitor.
Connect one side to pin number 2 on the amplifier (inverting pin).
Connect another side to the common ground.
2-6. Search for all components.
Search and place all the remaining components by using the same method as the previous steps.
2-7. Connect the potentiometer.
Connect the first side of the potentiometer to pin number 2 and the second side to pin number 6 (output).
2-8. Connect the two 1 kiloohms resistor.
Connect the two of them together.
Connect one side to pin number 6.
Connect another side to the common ground.
2-9. Connect the non-inverting pin (pin number 3).
By using a virtual wire, connect pin number 3 to the intersection between the two 1 kiloohms resistors.
2-10. Connect the LED light.
Connect the positive side of the LED to one of the leads of the 100 ohms resistor. Connect the second lead of the 100 ohms resistor to the common ground.
2-11. Power up the virtual circuit.
Power up the virtual circuit by connecting the negative side of the first DC power source (battery) to pin number 4 and the positive side to the common ground. Also, Connect the positive side of the second battery to pin number 7 and the negative side to the common ground.
2-12. Change the resistance percentage on the virtual potentiometer.
By changing the percentage, the speed of the blinking light will change.
2-13. Compare all the connections to the schematic provided in this step.
The purpose of this step is to make sure that all connections in the previous steps have been done correctly.
Tips
Buy a big breadboard to make it easier to follow the steps
Watch a YouTube video about how to use Mutism if you could not figure it out by yourself or by the instruction I gave.
Read the steps very carefully.
Warnings
Do not flip the order of the batteries, if that occurred, change the amplifier because it will be burnt.
If a burning smell appears, Disconnect the batteries immediately.
Do not place the batteries close to each other.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Simple Circuit Manually\\n1-1. Buy all the required materials.\\nYou will need 100 Kiloohms Trimmer (Breadboard potentiometer), two 9 Volts batteries, 22 Microfarad Capacitor, one LED light (can be Red, Blue, Green, or White), Breadboard, two 1 Kilohms resistors, one 100 ohms resistor, LM 741 Amplifier, and jumping wires.\\n1-2. Read the manual that comes with the amplifier.\\nThe purpose of this step is to learn how the pins are numbered on the amplifier. Usually, the first pin is located on the top left corner (there is usually a little dot to indicate it), and the 8th pin is located on the top right corner.\\npin number 2 is called the inverting input.\\npin number 3 is called the non- inverting input.\\npin number 6 is the amplifier output.\\npin number 4 and pin number 7 are used to power up the circuit.\\n1-3. Read the manual that comes with the breadboard.\\nThe purpose of this step is to fully understand how the breadboard works:\\nUsually the rows are connected.\\nThe ground is located at one of the sides.\\nSome breadboards have different segments, so it’s a good idea to read the manual before building.\\n1-4. Place the amplifier in the middle of the breadboard.\\nThe purpose of placing the amplifier in the middle is to have enough space to work with on the top and the bottom. Make sure the little dot on the amplifier is on the top right corner to make identifying pins easier.\\n1-5. Place the trimmer on the breadboard.\\nNote that the trimmer has three pins. However, only the middle and one of the side pins will be used. Make sure that each pin is placed on a different row.\\n1-6. Connect the capacitor to pin number 2 on the amplifier.\\nNote: some capacitors are polarized (the two leads of the capacitor have different lengths).\\nConnect the longer lead to pin number 2 on the amplifier.\\nConnect the shorter lead to the ground (using jumping wires may be required, it depends how far is the ground pins).\\nIf the capacitor is not polarized, both leads will have the same length.\\n1-7. Connect the pins for the potentiometer by using jumping wires.\\nConnect the middle pin on the potentiometer to pin number 2 on the amplifier.\\nMake sure that pin number 2 of the amplifier, one side of the capacitor, and the middle pin of the potentiometer are connected on the same row.\\nConnect one of the potentiometer’s side pins to pin number 6 of the amplifier (output pin).\\nThe remaining pin is unused.\\n1-8. Place one of 1 kiloohms resistors on the beadboard.\\nAll resistors have two sides.\\nConnect the first side to pin number 6, and the second side to any close empty row.\\n1-9. Place the second 1 kiloohms resistor on the breadboard.\\nConnect one side to the same row as the first 1 kiloohms resistor (to the same close empty row).\\nConnect the second side to the ground (using jumping wire may be necessary because the resistor is not long enough).\\n1-10. Place the 100 ohms resistor on the breadboard.\\nChoose two empty rows in between the two the 1 kiloohms resistors and connect the 100 kiloohms resistor across of them.\\nBy using a jumping wire, connect the bottom row to the ground.\\n1-11. Place a jumping wire between the row where the two 1 kiloohms resistors intersect and pin number 3.\\n\\n1-12. Place the LED light on the breadboard.\\nConnect the longer lead to pin number 6, and the shorter lead to the same top row for the 100 kiloohms resistor.\\n1-13. Power up the circuit by using two 9 volts batteries.\\nConnect the negative side of the first battery to pin number 4 and the positive side to the ground. Connect the positive side of the second battery to the to pin number 7 and the negative side to the ground.\\n1-14. Turn the knob on the potentiometer to speed up or slow down the blinking.\\nBy turning the potentiometer, the total resistance will be changed and that will change the charging and discharging frequency for the capacitor.\\n2. Using Multisim Software\\n2-1. Place the LM 741 I the middle of the screen.\\nTo place any components in Multisim, click on “place components” in the toolbar, then click on the search button on the side, after selecting the component, double click on it to place it on the screen.\\n2-2. Place the capacitor on the screen.\\nIf 22 microfarad is not found, place any capacitor, then double click on it to change the value.\\n2-3. Place a common ground or multiple grounds.\\nto place the ground, go to \\\" place components\\\" and find it under \\\" Power sources\\\".\\n2-4. Double click on the screen to get virtual wires.\\nDouble click on the screen at the starting point, then move the cursor to the ending point then click the mouse again. This method has to be used for all required connections.\\n2-5. Connect the capacitor.\\nConnect one side to pin number 2 on the amplifier (inverting pin).\\nConnect another side to the common ground.\\n2-6. Search for all components.\\nSearch and place all the remaining components by using the same method as the previous steps.\\n2-7. Connect the potentiometer.\\nConnect the first side of the potentiometer to pin number 2 and the second side to pin number 6 (output).\\n2-8. Connect the two 1 kiloohms resistor.\\nConnect the two of them together.\\nConnect one side to pin number 6.\\nConnect another side to the common ground.\\n2-9. Connect the non-inverting pin (pin number 3).\\nBy using a virtual wire, connect pin number 3 to the intersection between the two 1 kiloohms resistors.\\n2-10. Connect the LED light.\\nConnect the positive side of the LED to one of the leads of the 100 ohms resistor. Connect the second lead of the 100 ohms resistor to the common ground.\\n2-11. Power up the virtual circuit.\\nPower up the virtual circuit by connecting the negative side of the first DC power source (battery) to pin number 4 and the positive side to the common ground. Also, Connect the positive side of the second battery to pin number 7 and the negative side to the common ground.\\n2-12. Change the resistance percentage on the virtual potentiometer.\\nBy changing the percentage, the speed of the blinking light will change.\\n2-13. Compare all the connections to the schematic provided in this step.\\nThe purpose of this step is to make sure that all connections in the previous steps have been done correctly.\\nTips\\nBuy a big breadboard to make it easier to follow the steps\\nWatch a YouTube video about how to use Mutism if you could not figure it out by yourself or by the instruction I gave.\\nRead the steps very carefully.\\nWarnings\\nDo not flip the order of the batteries, if that occurred, change the amplifier because it will be burnt.\\nIf a burning smell appears, Disconnect the batteries immediately.\\nDo not place the batteries close to each other.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a blinking light circuit is a great method to introduce yourself to the electronics world. The art of building circuits that serve a purpose has been around for many years, but the beauty of this circuit is that it can be built by buying only a handful of components that will not cost a lot of money.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Simple Circuit Manually\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy all the required materials.\", \"描述\": \"You will need 100 Kiloohms Trimmer (Breadboard potentiometer), two 9 Volts batteries, 22 Microfarad Capacitor, one LED light (can be Red, Blue, Green, or White), Breadboard, two 1 Kilohms resistors, one 100 ohms resistor, LM 741 Amplifier, and jumping wires.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Read the manual that comes with the amplifier.\", \"描述\": \"The purpose of this step is to learn how the pins are numbered on the amplifier. Usually, the first pin is located on the top left corner (there is usually a little dot to indicate it), and the 8th pin is located on the top right corner.\\npin number 2 is called the inverting input.\\npin number 3 is called the non- inverting input.\\npin number 6 is the amplifier output.\\npin number 4 and pin number 7 are used to power up the circuit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Read the manual that comes with the breadboard.\", \"描述\": \"The purpose of this step is to fully understand how the breadboard works:\\nUsually the rows are connected.\\nThe ground is located at one of the sides.\\nSome breadboards have different segments, so it’s a good idea to read the manual before building.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the amplifier in the middle of the breadboard.\", \"描述\": \"The purpose of placing the amplifier in the middle is to have enough space to work with on the top and the bottom. Make sure the little dot on the amplifier is on the top right corner to make identifying pins easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the trimmer on the breadboard.\", \"描述\": \"Note that the trimmer has three pins. However, only the middle and one of the side pins will be used. Make sure that each pin is placed on a different row.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Connect the capacitor to pin number 2 on the amplifier.\", \"描述\": \"Note: some capacitors are polarized (the two leads of the capacitor have different lengths).\\nConnect the longer lead to pin number 2 on the amplifier.\\nConnect the shorter lead to the ground (using jumping wires may be required, it depends how far is the ground pins).\\nIf the capacitor is not polarized, both leads will have the same length.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Connect the pins for the potentiometer by using jumping wires.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the middle pin on the potentiometer to pin number 2 on the amplifier.\\nMake sure that pin number 2 of the amplifier, one side of the capacitor, and the middle pin of the potentiometer are connected on the same row.\\nConnect one of the potentiometer’s side pins to pin number 6 of the amplifier (output pin).\\nThe remaining pin is unused.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Place one of 1 kiloohms resistors on the beadboard.\", \"描述\": \"All resistors have two sides.\\nConnect the first side to pin number 6, and the second side to any close empty row.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place the second 1 kiloohms resistor on the breadboard.\", \"描述\": \"Connect one side to the same row as the first 1 kiloohms resistor (to the same close empty row).\\nConnect the second side to the ground (using jumping wire may be necessary because the resistor is not long enough).\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Place the 100 ohms resistor on the breadboard.\", \"描述\": \"Choose two empty rows in between the two the 1 kiloohms resistors and connect the 100 kiloohms resistor across of them.\\nBy using a jumping wire, connect the bottom row to the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Place a jumping wire between the row where the two 1 kiloohms resistors intersect and pin number 3.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Place the LED light on the breadboard.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the longer lead to pin number 6, and the shorter lead to the same top row for the 100 kiloohms resistor.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Power up the circuit by using two 9 volts batteries.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the negative side of the first battery to pin number 4 and the positive side to the ground. Connect the positive side of the second battery to the to pin number 7 and the negative side to the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Turn the knob on the potentiometer to speed up or slow down the blinking.\", \"描述\": \"By turning the potentiometer, the total resistance will be changed and that will change the charging and discharging frequency for the capacitor.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using Multisim Software\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the LM 741 I the middle of the screen.\", \"描述\": \"To place any components in Multisim, click on “place components” in the toolbar, then click on the search button on the side, after selecting the component, double click on it to place it on the screen.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the capacitor on the screen.\", \"描述\": \"If 22 microfarad is not found, place any capacitor, then double click on it to change the value.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place a common ground or multiple grounds.\", \"描述\": \"to place the ground, go to \\\" place components\\\" and find it under \\\" Power sources\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Double click on the screen to get virtual wires.\", \"描述\": \"Double click on the screen at the starting point, then move the cursor to the ending point then click the mouse again. This method has to be used for all required connections.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect the capacitor.\", \"描述\": \"Connect one side to pin number 2 on the amplifier (inverting pin).\\nConnect another side to the common ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Search for all components.\", \"描述\": \"Search and place all the remaining components by using the same method as the previous steps.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Connect the potentiometer.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the first side of the potentiometer to pin number 2 and the second side to pin number 6 (output).\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Connect the two 1 kiloohms resistor.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the two of them together.\\nConnect one side to pin number 6.\\nConnect another side to the common ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Connect the non-inverting pin (pin number 3).\", \"描述\": \"By using a virtual wire, connect pin number 3 to the intersection between the two 1 kiloohms resistors.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Connect the LED light.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the positive side of the LED to one of the leads of the 100 ohms resistor. Connect the second lead of the 100 ohms resistor to the common ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Power up the virtual circuit.\", \"描述\": \"Power up the virtual circuit by connecting the negative side of the first DC power source (battery) to pin number 4 and the positive side to the common ground. Also, Connect the positive side of the second battery to pin number 7 and the negative side to the common ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Change the resistance percentage on the virtual potentiometer.\", \"描述\": \"By changing the percentage, the speed of the blinking light will change.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Compare all the connections to the schematic provided in this step.\", \"描述\": \"The purpose of this step is to make sure that all connections in the previous steps have been done correctly.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Buy a big breadboard to make it easier to follow the steps\\n\", \"Watch a YouTube video about how to use Mutism if you could not figure it out by yourself or by the instruction I gave.\\n\", \"Read the steps very carefully.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not flip the order of the batteries, if that occurred, change the amplifier because it will be burnt.\\n\", \"If a burning smell appears, Disconnect the batteries immediately.\\n\", \"Do not place the batteries close to each other.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,230 |
How to Build a House in Welcome to Bloxburg on Roblox
|
1. Getting Started
1-1. Create an empty plot.
You will be given a free plot and a default home when you join the game for the first time. To make additional plots, it will cost you Blockbux, a currency that must be bought with Robux, which is the currency of Roblox costing real-life USD. If you cannot make a new plot, sell your starter house or current house.
For example, if your house was worth $7,000, you'll only earn $4,900 back. If you don't want to lose money, use Blockbux to create an entirely new plot and save your house.
1-2. Think of a theme for your house.
Decide if you want it to be modern, victorian, a farmhouse, suburban, etc. Choosing a style is normally difficult unless you know exactly what you want. Some descriptions of each house are listed below if you don't know what you want:
Modern-style houses have a tilted or flat roof, wooden walls, large rectangular windows, pillars, and an aesthetic color scheme.
Victorian-style houses have a gable roof, wooden/brick walls, average-sized windows, shutters, pillars, and a monochromatic or vintage color scheme.
Farmhouses have a gambrel roof, wooden walls, open windows, shutters, pillars, and a warm or aesthetic color scheme.
Suburban houses have a gable roof, plastic (texture) or wooden walls, average-sized windows, shutters, pillars, and a monochromatic or analogous color scheme.
1-3. Make a plan for your house.
When you build, it's maybe more difficult when you don't know what you want. Decide on the following to make building easier and more fun:
What rooms do you need?
How many rooms?
What game passes do you have?
Building on a small budget, or with a large amount of money?
Will you add a pool or backyard?
How about a front yard?
Do you intend on having a family?
1-4. Open Bloxburg's build mode.
This will give you the option to edit your current plot. If you go to your mailbox and press E (or tap on it for mobile), the option to enter build mode should appear, along with some other convenient options. Click "Build Mode" and you should be standing on your plot, ready to build.
2. Building the Exterior
2-1. Place the walls.
Make sure there's at least space for a living room, a kitchen, a bedroom, a bathroom, and a garage. Here are some optional rooms that you can add for decoration or roleplay:
Movie room
Playroom
Study
Laundry room
Reading room
2-2. Create the floor.
Add the floor by clicking each corner from left to right, or right to left. To make it quicker and easier, click the automatic version. If you place it manually, make sure you don't skip a corner!
2-3. Make a door for your house.
A door is essential; without them, you can't enter your building. Place a door that fits the house. The best door isn't the most expensive door - it's the door that matches your house and fits in with the color scheme.
2-4. Add windows.
Don't spam windows everywhere, though - instead, place them in spots where they're functional and won't be blocked by stairs, bookshelves, cabinets, beds, etc. It's helpful to place them in these types of places because you'll be able to see if someone is trying to enter your house or if someone is outside.
2-5. Build the roof.
This works a lot like the floor, except it's on top of walls or pillars rather than below them. You can have the roof automatically placed or manually. It's all up to you since this is your own unique house.
2-6. Decorate your house.
Click the Decorations button on the bottom left of your screen, and add objects like plants, paths, garden lights, tables and chairs, doorbells, etc. This is optional, but a nice finishing touch for an aesthetic exterior.
2-7. Paint the exterior of your house.
The paint tool can be found on the bottom of your screen or activated by the F button on your keyboard. The part of the house you're painting should turn blue when you hover over it. Add textures and colors of the color scheme you've selected. Don't forget to paint both sides of the walls!
3. Building the Interior
3-1. Light up your build!
Again, don't spam lights, but add them in places where they make sense. Making light brown or gray lights keep your house from appearing too bright. Many experienced builders use "linen lighting" to prevent extreme brightness.
3-2. Create the living room.
Living rooms are crucial to a detailed build for both living and roleplaying. A living room normally consists of:
Storage (i.e. bookshelves, boxes)
Decorations
A television
A coffee table
Sofas and armchairs
3-3. Decorate the kitchen.
Kitchens are used for increasing your moods or cooking level and are essential to functional houses. A kitchen normally consists of:
Counters and islands
Microwaves and stoves
Coffee makers and kettles
Decorations
Stools
3-4. Add furniture to your bedroom.
Your bedroom is one of the most important rooms in both real houses and Bloxburg houses. Bedrooms usually consist of:
Beds
Desks
Dressers and closets
Decorations
Storage (i.e. bookshelves, boxes)
Curtains
3-5. Move onto the bathroom.
This is another important room for your house since even Robloxians have to clean up. Bathrooms usually consist of:
Toilets
showers or bathtubs
Counters
Sinks
Decorations
3-6. Decorate any optional rooms.
You can skip this part of the process if you don't have any, but if you do, add anything you'd expect in that room. As an example, when decorating a movie room, add a television, armchairs, potted plants, paintings, popcorn machines, etc.
3-7. Paint the interior of your house.
The paint tool can be found on the bottom of your screen or activated by pressing the F button on your keyboard. The part of the house you're painting should turn blue when you hover over it. Add textures and colors of the color scheme you've selected.
Tips
Keep your theme in mind at all times. If you're making a vintage build, don't use modern items. Instead of a radio, try a gramophone. Instead of using a wireless phone, use one connected to the wall that uses a wire.
Try to get inspiration from other houses or designs, just don't copy them!
If you want to add neon colors, use an analogous color scheme to include at least one neon color. Don't use random neon colors together or it won't look as aesthetically appealing.
Warnings
You might not have enough money to build a full house, so try working for it first before taking on building a house in Bloxburg.
Sometimes people might ask to build your house, be careful because they might mess it up and leave the game.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Started\\n1-1. Create an empty plot.\\nYou will be given a free plot and a default home when you join the game for the first time. To make additional plots, it will cost you Blockbux, a currency that must be bought with Robux, which is the currency of Roblox costing real-life USD. If you cannot make a new plot, sell your starter house or current house. \\nFor example, if your house was worth $7,000, you'll only earn $4,900 back. If you don't want to lose money, use Blockbux to create an entirely new plot and save your house.\\n1-2. Think of a theme for your house.\\nDecide if you want it to be modern, victorian, a farmhouse, suburban, etc. Choosing a style is normally difficult unless you know exactly what you want. Some descriptions of each house are listed below if you don't know what you want:\\nModern-style houses have a tilted or flat roof, wooden walls, large rectangular windows, pillars, and an aesthetic color scheme.\\nVictorian-style houses have a gable roof, wooden/brick walls, average-sized windows, shutters, pillars, and a monochromatic or vintage color scheme.\\nFarmhouses have a gambrel roof, wooden walls, open windows, shutters, pillars, and a warm or aesthetic color scheme.\\nSuburban houses have a gable roof, plastic (texture) or wooden walls, average-sized windows, shutters, pillars, and a monochromatic or analogous color scheme.\\n1-3. Make a plan for your house.\\nWhen you build, it's maybe more difficult when you don't know what you want. Decide on the following to make building easier and more fun:\\nWhat rooms do you need?\\nHow many rooms?\\nWhat game passes do you have?\\nBuilding on a small budget, or with a large amount of money?\\nWill you add a pool or backyard?\\nHow about a front yard?\\nDo you intend on having a family?\\n1-4. Open Bloxburg's build mode.\\nThis will give you the option to edit your current plot. If you go to your mailbox and press E (or tap on it for mobile), the option to enter build mode should appear, along with some other convenient options. Click \\\"Build Mode\\\" and you should be standing on your plot, ready to build.\\n2. Building the Exterior\\n2-1. Place the walls.\\nMake sure there's at least space for a living room, a kitchen, a bedroom, a bathroom, and a garage. Here are some optional rooms that you can add for decoration or roleplay:\\nMovie room\\nPlayroom\\nStudy\\nLaundry room\\nReading room\\n2-2. Create the floor.\\nAdd the floor by clicking each corner from left to right, or right to left. To make it quicker and easier, click the automatic version. If you place it manually, make sure you don't skip a corner!\\n2-3. Make a door for your house.\\nA door is essential; without them, you can't enter your building. Place a door that fits the house. The best door isn't the most expensive door - it's the door that matches your house and fits in with the color scheme.\\n2-4. Add windows.\\nDon't spam windows everywhere, though - instead, place them in spots where they're functional and won't be blocked by stairs, bookshelves, cabinets, beds, etc. It's helpful to place them in these types of places because you'll be able to see if someone is trying to enter your house or if someone is outside.\\n2-5. Build the roof.\\nThis works a lot like the floor, except it's on top of walls or pillars rather than below them. You can have the roof automatically placed or manually. It's all up to you since this is your own unique house.\\n2-6. Decorate your house.\\nClick the Decorations button on the bottom left of your screen, and add objects like plants, paths, garden lights, tables and chairs, doorbells, etc. This is optional, but a nice finishing touch for an aesthetic exterior.\\n2-7. Paint the exterior of your house.\\nThe paint tool can be found on the bottom of your screen or activated by the F button on your keyboard. The part of the house you're painting should turn blue when you hover over it. Add textures and colors of the color scheme you've selected. Don't forget to paint both sides of the walls!\\n3. Building the Interior\\n3-1. Light up your build!\\nAgain, don't spam lights, but add them in places where they make sense. Making light brown or gray lights keep your house from appearing too bright. Many experienced builders use \\\"linen lighting\\\" to prevent extreme brightness.\\n3-2. Create the living room.\\nLiving rooms are crucial to a detailed build for both living and roleplaying. A living room normally consists of:\\nStorage (i.e. bookshelves, boxes)\\nDecorations\\nA television\\nA coffee table\\nSofas and armchairs\\n3-3. Decorate the kitchen.\\nKitchens are used for increasing your moods or cooking level and are essential to functional houses. A kitchen normally consists of:\\nCounters and islands\\nMicrowaves and stoves\\nCoffee makers and kettles\\nDecorations\\nStools\\n3-4. Add furniture to your bedroom.\\nYour bedroom is one of the most important rooms in both real houses and Bloxburg houses. Bedrooms usually consist of:\\nBeds\\nDesks\\nDressers and closets\\nDecorations\\nStorage (i.e. bookshelves, boxes)\\nCurtains\\n3-5. Move onto the bathroom.\\nThis is another important room for your house since even Robloxians have to clean up. Bathrooms usually consist of:\\nToilets\\nshowers or bathtubs\\nCounters\\nSinks\\nDecorations\\n3-6. Decorate any optional rooms.\\nYou can skip this part of the process if you don't have any, but if you do, add anything you'd expect in that room. As an example, when decorating a movie room, add a television, armchairs, potted plants, paintings, popcorn machines, etc.\\n3-7. Paint the interior of your house.\\nThe paint tool can be found on the bottom of your screen or activated by pressing the F button on your keyboard. The part of the house you're painting should turn blue when you hover over it. Add textures and colors of the color scheme you've selected.\\nTips\\nKeep your theme in mind at all times. If you're making a vintage build, don't use modern items. Instead of a radio, try a gramophone. Instead of using a wireless phone, use one connected to the wall that uses a wire.\\nTry to get inspiration from other houses or designs, just don't copy them!\\nIf you want to add neon colors, use an analogous color scheme to include at least one neon color. Don't use random neon colors together or it won't look as aesthetically appealing.\\nWarnings\\nYou might not have enough money to build a full house, so try working for it first before taking on building a house in Bloxburg.\\nSometimes people might ask to build your house, be careful because they might mess it up and leave the game.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Bloxburg is a life-simulation game in the game Roblox. It simulates everyday life in a virtual household within a city. If you are trying to build a unique house in Bloxburg in Roblox, then this is the article for you.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Started\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create an empty plot.\", \"描述\": \"You will be given a free plot and a default home when you join the game for the first time. To make additional plots, it will cost you Blockbux, a currency that must be bought with Robux, which is the currency of Roblox costing real-life USD. If you cannot make a new plot, sell your starter house or current house. \\nFor example, if your house was worth $7,000, you'll only earn $4,900 back. If you don't want to lose money, use Blockbux to create an entirely new plot and save your house.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Think of a theme for your house.\", \"描述\": \"Decide if you want it to be modern, victorian, a farmhouse, suburban, etc. Choosing a style is normally difficult unless you know exactly what you want. Some descriptions of each house are listed below if you don't know what you want:\\nModern-style houses have a tilted or flat roof, wooden walls, large rectangular windows, pillars, and an aesthetic color scheme.\\nVictorian-style houses have a gable roof, wooden/brick walls, average-sized windows, shutters, pillars, and a monochromatic or vintage color scheme.\\nFarmhouses have a gambrel roof, wooden walls, open windows, shutters, pillars, and a warm or aesthetic color scheme.\\nSuburban houses have a gable roof, plastic (texture) or wooden walls, average-sized windows, shutters, pillars, and a monochromatic or analogous color scheme.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a plan for your house.\", \"描述\": \"When you build, it's maybe more difficult when you don't know what you want. Decide on the following to make building easier and more fun:\\nWhat rooms do you need?\\nHow many rooms?\\nWhat game passes do you have?\\nBuilding on a small budget, or with a large amount of money?\\nWill you add a pool or backyard?\\nHow about a front yard?\\nDo you intend on having a family?\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Open Bloxburg's build mode.\", \"描述\": \"This will give you the option to edit your current plot. If you go to your mailbox and press E (or tap on it for mobile), the option to enter build mode should appear, along with some other convenient options. Click \\\"Build Mode\\\" and you should be standing on your plot, ready to build.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Exterior\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure there's at least space for a living room, a kitchen, a bedroom, a bathroom, and a garage. Here are some optional rooms that you can add for decoration or roleplay:\\nMovie room\\nPlayroom\\nStudy\\nLaundry room\\nReading room\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Add the floor by clicking each corner from left to right, or right to left. To make it quicker and easier, click the automatic version. If you place it manually, make sure you don't skip a corner!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a door for your house.\", \"描述\": \"A door is essential; without them, you can't enter your building. Place a door that fits the house. The best door isn't the most expensive door - it's the door that matches your house and fits in with the color scheme.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add windows.\", \"描述\": \"Don't spam windows everywhere, though - instead, place them in spots where they're functional and won't be blocked by stairs, bookshelves, cabinets, beds, etc. It's helpful to place them in these types of places because you'll be able to see if someone is trying to enter your house or if someone is outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build the roof.\", \"描述\": \"This works a lot like the floor, except it's on top of walls or pillars rather than below them. You can have the roof automatically placed or manually. It's all up to you since this is your own unique house.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decorate your house.\", \"描述\": \"Click the Decorations button on the bottom left of your screen, and add objects like plants, paths, garden lights, tables and chairs, doorbells, etc. This is optional, but a nice finishing touch for an aesthetic exterior.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Paint the exterior of your house.\", \"描述\": \"The paint tool can be found on the bottom of your screen or activated by the F button on your keyboard. The part of the house you're painting should turn blue when you hover over it. Add textures and colors of the color scheme you've selected. Don't forget to paint both sides of the walls!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Interior\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Light up your build!\", \"描述\": \"Again, don't spam lights, but add them in places where they make sense. Making light brown or gray lights keep your house from appearing too bright. Many experienced builders use \\\"linen lighting\\\" to prevent extreme brightness.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create the living room.\", \"描述\": \"Living rooms are crucial to a detailed build for both living and roleplaying. A living room normally consists of:\\nStorage (i.e. bookshelves, boxes)\\nDecorations\\nA television\\nA coffee table\\nSofas and armchairs\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decorate the kitchen.\", \"描述\": \"Kitchens are used for increasing your moods or cooking level and are essential to functional houses. A kitchen normally consists of:\\nCounters and islands\\nMicrowaves and stoves\\nCoffee makers and kettles\\nDecorations\\nStools\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add furniture to your bedroom.\", \"描述\": \"Your bedroom is one of the most important rooms in both real houses and Bloxburg houses. Bedrooms usually consist of:\\nBeds\\nDesks\\nDressers and closets\\nDecorations\\nStorage (i.e. bookshelves, boxes)\\nCurtains\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Move onto the bathroom.\", \"描述\": \"This is another important room for your house since even Robloxians have to clean up. Bathrooms usually consist of:\\nToilets\\nshowers or bathtubs\\nCounters\\nSinks\\nDecorations\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decorate any optional rooms.\", \"描述\": \"You can skip this part of the process if you don't have any, but if you do, add anything you'd expect in that room. As an example, when decorating a movie room, add a television, armchairs, potted plants, paintings, popcorn machines, etc.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Paint the interior of your house.\", \"描述\": \"The paint tool can be found on the bottom of your screen or activated by pressing the F button on your keyboard. The part of the house you're painting should turn blue when you hover over it. Add textures and colors of the color scheme you've selected.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Keep your theme in mind at all times. If you're making a vintage build, don't use modern items. Instead of a radio, try a gramophone. Instead of using a wireless phone, use one connected to the wall that uses a wire.\\n\", \"Try to get inspiration from other houses or designs, just don't copy them!\\n\", \"If you want to add neon colors, use an analogous color scheme to include at least one neon color. Don't use random neon colors together or it won't look as aesthetically appealing.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"You might not have enough money to build a full house, so try working for it first before taking on building a house in Bloxburg.\\n\", \"Sometimes people might ask to build your house, be careful because they might mess it up and leave the game.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,231 |
How to Build a Bluebird House
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1. Gathering Your Materials
1-1. Cut 3 pieces of wood from a piece of 1 in (2.5 cm) thick unfinished wood.
Start by purchasing a 66 inch (170 cm) long piece of 1 in (2.5 cm) thick unfinished wood. Now, cut it into 3 pieces: one 11 in (28 cm) piece of 1 in × 12 in (2.5 cm × 30.5 cm) wood for the roof; one 23 in (58 cm) piece of 1 in × 8 in (2.5 cm × 20.3 cm) wood for the sides; and one 32 in (81 cm) piece of 1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) wood for the back and front. Although you can choose pretty much any kind of wood you want, white pine and cedar are the easiest to find.
Don't use plywood or particleboard.
1-2. Buy glue made from aliphatic resin, urethane, or construction adhesive.
Make sure you purchase one of these glue types to ensure that your bluebird house stays together in the long-term. Standard glues are not strong enough for the needs of a bluebird house.
If you use a urethane-based glue, such as Gorilla glue, be sure to secure the joints with screws before it dries.
1-3. Purchase 10 exterior grade 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws.
Using these screws you will drill 4 in the front, 4 in the back, and 2 to secure the base. Purchase all of these from the local hardware store or online supplier. If you don't have an electric drill, purchase one as well.
Purchase a twist bit to pre-drill the holes. These also create a countersink, which is the indentation that the screw head sits in.
If you have the money, purchase 2 drills to avoid switching drill bits.
1-4. Cut the wood pieces into the necessary bluebird parts.
The 11.25 by 11 inch (28.6 cm × 27.9 cm) piece doesn't need to be cut. Use a circular saw and ruler to measure and cut your remaining 2 pieces of wood into the bluebird parts listed below. You can also use a bandsaw if you have access to one. If you don't feel comfortable cutting the pieces on your own, pay someone at the local hardware store or lumberyard to create the specific dimensions you need. Regardless, you should have 6 pieces of wood at the end:
Two side pieces 6.5 in (17 cm) wide, angled 12.25 in (31.1 cm) top to bottom in the back and 10.75 in (27.3 cm) in the front.
One front piece 5 in (13 cm) wide and 10.75 in (27.3 cm) tall.
One bottom piece 5 in (13 cm) long and wide
One back piece 5 in (13 cm) wide and 15 in (38 cm) long.
1-5. Angle the side pieces diagonally from the top to bottom.
The top of the side pieces of the bluebird houses angle downward to create a sloped roof. The back end of the pieces are 12.25 in (31.1 cm) tall and the front ends are 10.75 in (27.3 cm). If you're cutting wood on your own, start with 12.25 in (31.1 cm) tall side pieces and mark the spot 1.5 in (3.8 cm) down from the top on each opposing side. Cut from the top of the tall side in a straight line down to the marked spot on the opposing side to create the angle.
Use a ruler to draw a cutline from one 12.25 inch (31.1 cm) side to the opposing side 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) downward.
2. Putting Your Bluebird House Together
2-1. Create a 1.5–1.5625 inch (3.810–3.969 cm) entrance hole in the front piece.
The hole should be placed 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of the wood and 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) from both sides. Use a spade bit, hole saw, or adjustable size hole bit with your drill to create the hole. For best results, drill the hole about 3/4 of the way through, flip the board, and finish the hole by drilling through the reverse side.
For western bluebirds or eastern bluebirds, drill a 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) hole. For mountain bluebirds, create a 1.5625 inch (3.969 cm) hole.
2-2. Create deep crisscrossed scratches on both sides of the panel.
Use a chisel, nail, or knife to create crisscrossed scratches running from the entrance hole to the bottom on both sides of the front piece. This will give young birds traction to climb to the hole and easily leave the nest. It will also give the mother something to land on.
2-3. Drill a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) ventilation holes in each of the side pieces.
Each side piece's ventilation hole should be 1 in (2.5 cm) down from the top of the wood and 2 in (5.1 cm) from both sides. Attach a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) drill bit to your drill and apply downward pressure while pressing the trigger.
Mark off the ventilation hole locations using a ruler and pencil.
Hold the drill perpendicular to the wood as you create the holes.
2-4. Glue the side pieces to the back piece.
Apply a thin strip of glue vertically along the leftmost and rightmost sides of the back piece. Start from the top of the back piece and make the strips 12.25 inches (31.1 cm) long from top to bottom. Now, press the 12.25 inch (31.1 cm) end of each side piece onto the glue strips and hold them in place for 2 to 3 minutes. Each side piece should align as closely as possible to the top of the back piece.
Be sure that the side pieces are perfectly perpendicular to the back piece before holding them in place onto the glue.
2-5. Connect the side pieces to the back with screws.
Drill four 2 inch (5.1 cm) holes with a twist bit horizontally through the back piece and into the side pieces. Each hole should go through the top-most and bottom-most part of each piece. Now, drive 4 exterior grade 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws through the holes.
Place the sides onto a flat surface when attaching the screws.
Hold each screw perpendicular to the wood and firmly but carefully drive them into the side pieces.
Be sure that the sides are screwed flush.
2-6. Drill a ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) ventilation hole in the bottom piece.
Use a spade bit, a hole saw, or an adjustable size hole bit with your electric drill. Place the hole directly in the center of the piece.
2-7. Cut the corners off the bottom piece.
Use a ruler to draw a diagonal line ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) in from the edge of the wood. Afterward, use a circular saw to remove the corner pieces, taking care to cut at a 45-degree angle.
The final shape of the wood is an octagon.
2-8. Glue the bottom to the back and side pieces.
Apply a line of glue onto the inside of the back and side pieces about ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) above the bottom of each piece. Now, press your 5 by 5 inch (13 cm × 13 cm) square bottom piece into place. Align the glue on the back and side pieces to the sides of the bottom piece as carefully as possible.
Always keep the base ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) above the bottom of the side pieces.
2-9. Glue the front piece to the side pieces.
Start by applying a strip of glue down each 10.75 in (27.3 cm) front edge ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the top. Press the front piece against this glue, making sure that its edges are flush with the side pieces.
Always leave a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) gap at the top of the front piece for proper ventilation.
2-10. Screw the front piece to the side pieces.
Start by drilling four 2 inch (5.1 cm) holes with your twist bit horizontally through the front piece into the side pieces. Each hole should go through the front piece into the corners of the side pieces. Finally, drive 4 exterior grade 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws through these holes.
2-11. Glue and nail the roof onto the front piece and side pieces.
Fasten the roof to the top of the front piece and the highest ends of the side pieces. Make sure there is a 2 inch (5.1 cm) overhang across the sides and a 3.75 inch (9.5 cm) overhang across the front. Start by attaching the roof with glue. Afterward, use a twist bit to create vertical holes down through the roof and into the side pieces. Finally, insert nails through the holes.
If there is a crack at the rear of the top piece between the back piece, apply a line of caulking compound to seal it. This will help keep the rain out of the interior.
3. Installing Your Bluebird House
3-1. Keep each bluebird house at least 125 to 150 yards (114 to 137 m) from each other.
If you install multiple homes, give them the recommended space. Without this space, you won't have enough nesting room for each bird, as bluebirds are territorial.
If you decide to install bluebird houses in pairs next to each other, keep them 5 to 25 feet (1.5 to 7.6 m) apart.
3-2. Mount your bluebird house 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) high.
Find a post to mount your bluebird house. Always make sure the entrance faces the nearest shrub or large tree. Try and install it in a location that is open or lightly wooded. For example, pastures with scattered trees or wooded patches are best.
Other locations suitable for bluebird houses are cemeteries, golf courses, new sub-divisions, and farmsteads.
3-3. Clean and repair bluebird houses every February.
Outside of this, try to clean each bluebird house when the young have left. This will prepare the house for more young birds, as it is likely that adults will return to the box for additional broods.
Young birds typically leave about 11 days after their eggs hatch.
Tips
Consider an alternative location if birds do not nest in the first season.
Clean out the old nest after the first brood. Remember that the birds may nest two or three times in a season.
Get creative! Paint the birdhouse in bright colors or your favorite design. Use stamps or stencils too.
Warnings
Wear safety glasses when cutting wood.
Keep children and pets out of the workshop while creating the birdhouse.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Gathering Your Materials\\n1-1. Cut 3 pieces of wood from a piece of 1 in (2.5 cm) thick unfinished wood.\\nStart by purchasing a 66 inch (170 cm) long piece of 1 in (2.5 cm) thick unfinished wood. Now, cut it into 3 pieces: one 11 in (28 cm) piece of 1 in × 12 in (2.5 cm × 30.5 cm) wood for the roof; one 23 in (58 cm) piece of 1 in × 8 in (2.5 cm × 20.3 cm) wood for the sides; and one 32 in (81 cm) piece of 1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) wood for the back and front. Although you can choose pretty much any kind of wood you want, white pine and cedar are the easiest to find.\\nDon't use plywood or particleboard.\\n1-2. Buy glue made from aliphatic resin, urethane, or construction adhesive.\\nMake sure you purchase one of these glue types to ensure that your bluebird house stays together in the long-term. Standard glues are not strong enough for the needs of a bluebird house.\\nIf you use a urethane-based glue, such as Gorilla glue, be sure to secure the joints with screws before it dries.\\n1-3. Purchase 10 exterior grade 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws.\\nUsing these screws you will drill 4 in the front, 4 in the back, and 2 to secure the base. Purchase all of these from the local hardware store or online supplier. If you don't have an electric drill, purchase one as well.\\nPurchase a twist bit to pre-drill the holes. These also create a countersink, which is the indentation that the screw head sits in.\\nIf you have the money, purchase 2 drills to avoid switching drill bits.\\n1-4. Cut the wood pieces into the necessary bluebird parts.\\nThe 11.25 by 11 inch (28.6 cm × 27.9 cm) piece doesn't need to be cut. Use a circular saw and ruler to measure and cut your remaining 2 pieces of wood into the bluebird parts listed below. You can also use a bandsaw if you have access to one. If you don't feel comfortable cutting the pieces on your own, pay someone at the local hardware store or lumberyard to create the specific dimensions you need. Regardless, you should have 6 pieces of wood at the end:\\nTwo side pieces 6.5 in (17 cm) wide, angled 12.25 in (31.1 cm) top to bottom in the back and 10.75 in (27.3 cm) in the front.\\nOne front piece 5 in (13 cm) wide and 10.75 in (27.3 cm) tall.\\nOne bottom piece 5 in (13 cm) long and wide\\nOne back piece 5 in (13 cm) wide and 15 in (38 cm) long.\\n1-5. Angle the side pieces diagonally from the top to bottom.\\nThe top of the side pieces of the bluebird houses angle downward to create a sloped roof. The back end of the pieces are 12.25 in (31.1 cm) tall and the front ends are 10.75 in (27.3 cm). If you're cutting wood on your own, start with 12.25 in (31.1 cm) tall side pieces and mark the spot 1.5 in (3.8 cm) down from the top on each opposing side. Cut from the top of the tall side in a straight line down to the marked spot on the opposing side to create the angle.\\nUse a ruler to draw a cutline from one 12.25 inch (31.1 cm) side to the opposing side 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) downward.\\n2. Putting Your Bluebird House Together\\n2-1. Create a 1.5–1.5625 inch (3.810–3.969 cm) entrance hole in the front piece.\\nThe hole should be placed 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of the wood and 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) from both sides. Use a spade bit, hole saw, or adjustable size hole bit with your drill to create the hole. For best results, drill the hole about 3/4 of the way through, flip the board, and finish the hole by drilling through the reverse side.\\nFor western bluebirds or eastern bluebirds, drill a 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) hole. For mountain bluebirds, create a 1.5625 inch (3.969 cm) hole.\\n2-2. Create deep crisscrossed scratches on both sides of the panel.\\nUse a chisel, nail, or knife to create crisscrossed scratches running from the entrance hole to the bottom on both sides of the front piece. This will give young birds traction to climb to the hole and easily leave the nest. It will also give the mother something to land on.\\n2-3. Drill a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) ventilation holes in each of the side pieces.\\nEach side piece's ventilation hole should be 1 in (2.5 cm) down from the top of the wood and 2 in (5.1 cm) from both sides. Attach a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) drill bit to your drill and apply downward pressure while pressing the trigger.\\nMark off the ventilation hole locations using a ruler and pencil.\\nHold the drill perpendicular to the wood as you create the holes.\\n2-4. Glue the side pieces to the back piece.\\nApply a thin strip of glue vertically along the leftmost and rightmost sides of the back piece. Start from the top of the back piece and make the strips 12.25 inches (31.1 cm) long from top to bottom. Now, press the 12.25 inch (31.1 cm) end of each side piece onto the glue strips and hold them in place for 2 to 3 minutes. Each side piece should align as closely as possible to the top of the back piece.\\nBe sure that the side pieces are perfectly perpendicular to the back piece before holding them in place onto the glue.\\n2-5. Connect the side pieces to the back with screws.\\nDrill four 2 inch (5.1 cm) holes with a twist bit horizontally through the back piece and into the side pieces. Each hole should go through the top-most and bottom-most part of each piece. Now, drive 4 exterior grade 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws through the holes.\\nPlace the sides onto a flat surface when attaching the screws.\\nHold each screw perpendicular to the wood and firmly but carefully drive them into the side pieces.\\nBe sure that the sides are screwed flush.\\n2-6. Drill a ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) ventilation hole in the bottom piece.\\nUse a spade bit, a hole saw, or an adjustable size hole bit with your electric drill. Place the hole directly in the center of the piece.\\n2-7. Cut the corners off the bottom piece.\\nUse a ruler to draw a diagonal line ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) in from the edge of the wood. Afterward, use a circular saw to remove the corner pieces, taking care to cut at a 45-degree angle.\\nThe final shape of the wood is an octagon.\\n2-8. Glue the bottom to the back and side pieces.\\nApply a line of glue onto the inside of the back and side pieces about ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) above the bottom of each piece. Now, press your 5 by 5 inch (13 cm × 13 cm) square bottom piece into place. Align the glue on the back and side pieces to the sides of the bottom piece as carefully as possible.\\nAlways keep the base ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) above the bottom of the side pieces.\\n2-9. Glue the front piece to the side pieces.\\nStart by applying a strip of glue down each 10.75 in (27.3 cm) front edge ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the top. Press the front piece against this glue, making sure that its edges are flush with the side pieces.\\nAlways leave a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) gap at the top of the front piece for proper ventilation.\\n2-10. Screw the front piece to the side pieces.\\nStart by drilling four 2 inch (5.1 cm) holes with your twist bit horizontally through the front piece into the side pieces. Each hole should go through the front piece into the corners of the side pieces. Finally, drive 4 exterior grade 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws through these holes.\\n2-11. Glue and nail the roof onto the front piece and side pieces.\\nFasten the roof to the top of the front piece and the highest ends of the side pieces. Make sure there is a 2 inch (5.1 cm) overhang across the sides and a 3.75 inch (9.5 cm) overhang across the front. Start by attaching the roof with glue. Afterward, use a twist bit to create vertical holes down through the roof and into the side pieces. Finally, insert nails through the holes.\\nIf there is a crack at the rear of the top piece between the back piece, apply a line of caulking compound to seal it. This will help keep the rain out of the interior.\\n3. Installing Your Bluebird House\\n3-1. Keep each bluebird house at least 125 to 150 yards (114 to 137 m) from each other.\\nIf you install multiple homes, give them the recommended space. Without this space, you won't have enough nesting room for each bird, as bluebirds are territorial.\\nIf you decide to install bluebird houses in pairs next to each other, keep them 5 to 25 feet (1.5 to 7.6 m) apart.\\n3-2. Mount your bluebird house 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) high.\\nFind a post to mount your bluebird house. Always make sure the entrance faces the nearest shrub or large tree. Try and install it in a location that is open or lightly wooded. For example, pastures with scattered trees or wooded patches are best.\\nOther locations suitable for bluebird houses are cemeteries, golf courses, new sub-divisions, and farmsteads.\\n3-3. Clean and repair bluebird houses every February.\\nOutside of this, try to clean each bluebird house when the young have left. This will prepare the house for more young birds, as it is likely that adults will return to the box for additional broods.\\nYoung birds typically leave about 11 days after their eggs hatch.\\nTips\\nConsider an alternative location if birds do not nest in the first season.\\nClean out the old nest after the first brood. Remember that the birds may nest two or three times in a season.\\nGet creative! Paint the birdhouse in bright colors or your favorite design. Use stamps or stencils too.\\nWarnings\\nWear safety glasses when cutting wood.\\nKeep children and pets out of the workshop while creating the birdhouse.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The Eastern Bluebird, also known as Sialia sialis, is a member of the thrush family. It is larger than a sparrow but smaller than a blue jay and can be found everywhere from Canada to the Gulf States and East of the Rockies. With the right pieces of wood and some basic power tools, you can build a house for this beautiful bird and give it a place to stay in your yard.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gathering Your Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 3 pieces of wood from a piece of 1 in (2.5 cm) thick unfinished wood.\", \"描述\": \"Start by purchasing a 66 inch (170 cm) long piece of 1 in (2.5 cm) thick unfinished wood. Now, cut it into 3 pieces: one 11 in (28 cm) piece of 1 in × 12 in (2.5 cm × 30.5 cm) wood for the roof; one 23 in (58 cm) piece of 1 in × 8 in (2.5 cm × 20.3 cm) wood for the sides; and one 32 in (81 cm) piece of 1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) wood for the back and front. Although you can choose pretty much any kind of wood you want, white pine and cedar are the easiest to find.\\nDon't use plywood or particleboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy glue made from aliphatic resin, urethane, or construction adhesive.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you purchase one of these glue types to ensure that your bluebird house stays together in the long-term. Standard glues are not strong enough for the needs of a bluebird house.\\nIf you use a urethane-based glue, such as Gorilla glue, be sure to secure the joints with screws before it dries.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase 10 exterior grade 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws.\", \"描述\": \"Using these screws you will drill 4 in the front, 4 in the back, and 2 to secure the base. Purchase all of these from the local hardware store or online supplier. If you don't have an electric drill, purchase one as well.\\nPurchase a twist bit to pre-drill the holes. These also create a countersink, which is the indentation that the screw head sits in.\\nIf you have the money, purchase 2 drills to avoid switching drill bits.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the wood pieces into the necessary bluebird parts.\", \"描述\": \"The 11.25 by 11 inch (28.6 cm × 27.9 cm) piece doesn't need to be cut. Use a circular saw and ruler to measure and cut your remaining 2 pieces of wood into the bluebird parts listed below. You can also use a bandsaw if you have access to one. If you don't feel comfortable cutting the pieces on your own, pay someone at the local hardware store or lumberyard to create the specific dimensions you need. Regardless, you should have 6 pieces of wood at the end:\\nTwo side pieces 6.5 in (17 cm) wide, angled 12.25 in (31.1 cm) top to bottom in the back and 10.75 in (27.3 cm) in the front.\\nOne front piece 5 in (13 cm) wide and 10.75 in (27.3 cm) tall.\\nOne bottom piece 5 in (13 cm) long and wide\\nOne back piece 5 in (13 cm) wide and 15 in (38 cm) long.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Angle the side pieces diagonally from the top to bottom.\", \"描述\": \"The top of the side pieces of the bluebird houses angle downward to create a sloped roof. The back end of the pieces are 12.25 in (31.1 cm) tall and the front ends are 10.75 in (27.3 cm). If you're cutting wood on your own, start with 12.25 in (31.1 cm) tall side pieces and mark the spot 1.5 in (3.8 cm) down from the top on each opposing side. Cut from the top of the tall side in a straight line down to the marked spot on the opposing side to create the angle.\\nUse a ruler to draw a cutline from one 12.25 inch (31.1 cm) side to the opposing side 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) downward.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Putting Your Bluebird House Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a 1.5–1.5625 inch (3.810–3.969 cm) entrance hole in the front piece.\", \"描述\": \"The hole should be placed 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of the wood and 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) from both sides. Use a spade bit, hole saw, or adjustable size hole bit with your drill to create the hole. For best results, drill the hole about 3/4 of the way through, flip the board, and finish the hole by drilling through the reverse side.\\nFor western bluebirds or eastern bluebirds, drill a 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) hole. For mountain bluebirds, create a 1.5625 inch (3.969 cm) hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create deep crisscrossed scratches on both sides of the panel.\", \"描述\": \"Use a chisel, nail, or knife to create crisscrossed scratches running from the entrance hole to the bottom on both sides of the front piece. This will give young birds traction to climb to the hole and easily leave the nest. It will also give the mother something to land on.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) ventilation holes in each of the side pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Each side piece's ventilation hole should be 1 in (2.5 cm) down from the top of the wood and 2 in (5.1 cm) from both sides. Attach a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) drill bit to your drill and apply downward pressure while pressing the trigger.\\nMark off the ventilation hole locations using a ruler and pencil.\\nHold the drill perpendicular to the wood as you create the holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue the side pieces to the back piece.\", \"描述\": \"Apply a thin strip of glue vertically along the leftmost and rightmost sides of the back piece. Start from the top of the back piece and make the strips 12.25 inches (31.1 cm) long from top to bottom. Now, press the 12.25 inch (31.1 cm) end of each side piece onto the glue strips and hold them in place for 2 to 3 minutes. Each side piece should align as closely as possible to the top of the back piece.\\nBe sure that the side pieces are perfectly perpendicular to the back piece before holding them in place onto the glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect the side pieces to the back with screws.\", \"描述\": \"Drill four 2 inch (5.1 cm) holes with a twist bit horizontally through the back piece and into the side pieces. Each hole should go through the top-most and bottom-most part of each piece. Now, drive 4 exterior grade 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws through the holes.\\nPlace the sides onto a flat surface when attaching the screws.\\nHold each screw perpendicular to the wood and firmly but carefully drive them into the side pieces.\\nBe sure that the sides are screwed flush.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill a ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) ventilation hole in the bottom piece.\", \"描述\": \"Use a spade bit, a hole saw, or an adjustable size hole bit with your electric drill. Place the hole directly in the center of the piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut the corners off the bottom piece.\", \"描述\": \"Use a ruler to draw a diagonal line ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) in from the edge of the wood. Afterward, use a circular saw to remove the corner pieces, taking care to cut at a 45-degree angle.\\nThe final shape of the wood is an octagon.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Glue the bottom to the back and side pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Apply a line of glue onto the inside of the back and side pieces about ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) above the bottom of each piece. Now, press your 5 by 5 inch (13 cm × 13 cm) square bottom piece into place. Align the glue on the back and side pieces to the sides of the bottom piece as carefully as possible.\\nAlways keep the base ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) above the bottom of the side pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Glue the front piece to the side pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Start by applying a strip of glue down each 10.75 in (27.3 cm) front edge ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the top. Press the front piece against this glue, making sure that its edges are flush with the side pieces.\\nAlways leave a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) gap at the top of the front piece for proper ventilation.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Screw the front piece to the side pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Start by drilling four 2 inch (5.1 cm) holes with your twist bit horizontally through the front piece into the side pieces. Each hole should go through the front piece into the corners of the side pieces. Finally, drive 4 exterior grade 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws through these holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Glue and nail the roof onto the front piece and side pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Fasten the roof to the top of the front piece and the highest ends of the side pieces. Make sure there is a 2 inch (5.1 cm) overhang across the sides and a 3.75 inch (9.5 cm) overhang across the front. Start by attaching the roof with glue. Afterward, use a twist bit to create vertical holes down through the roof and into the side pieces. Finally, insert nails through the holes.\\nIf there is a crack at the rear of the top piece between the back piece, apply a line of caulking compound to seal it. This will help keep the rain out of the interior.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing Your Bluebird House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep each bluebird house at least 125 to 150 yards (114 to 137 m) from each other.\", \"描述\": \"If you install multiple homes, give them the recommended space. Without this space, you won't have enough nesting room for each bird, as bluebirds are territorial.\\nIf you decide to install bluebird houses in pairs next to each other, keep them 5 to 25 feet (1.5 to 7.6 m) apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mount your bluebird house 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) high.\", \"描述\": \"Find a post to mount your bluebird house. Always make sure the entrance faces the nearest shrub or large tree. Try and install it in a location that is open or lightly wooded. For example, pastures with scattered trees or wooded patches are best.\\nOther locations suitable for bluebird houses are cemeteries, golf courses, new sub-divisions, and farmsteads.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clean and repair bluebird houses every February.\", \"描述\": \"Outside of this, try to clean each bluebird house when the young have left. This will prepare the house for more young birds, as it is likely that adults will return to the box for additional broods.\\nYoung birds typically leave about 11 days after their eggs hatch.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Consider an alternative location if birds do not nest in the first season.\\n\", \"Clean out the old nest after the first brood. Remember that the birds may nest two or three times in a season.\\n\", \"Get creative! Paint the birdhouse in bright colors or your favorite design. Use stamps or stencils too.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wear safety glasses when cutting wood.\\n\", \"Keep children and pets out of the workshop while creating the birdhouse.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,232 |
How to Build a Boat
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1. Building the Frame
1-1. Rip and attach the plywood sheets.
Rip two sheets of 4'x8'x1/8" (door skin plywood) into 24" wide sheets, stack and attach these 24"x 8' sheets together at the top and bottom edges with small nails in a few spots.
1-2. Mark out your measurements.
Lay out the attached panels and mark a vertical line every 12" along the entire 8' length of the plywood. From these 12" vertical lines, measurements are made by marking points on these lines.
A long stick or batten is used to draw a line between these points giving the outlines of the canoe's panels. Make sure the lines drawn for the panels are all fair, smooth curves.
Only three panels are needed per side. The four half sheets of 8' plywood are used to make 12 boat panels, then these 12 panels are put together in matching pairs with butt blocks or scarf joints to make up the total 6 panels or 3 per side.
Finger joints, using a dovetail template and a router will also make good joints to join the panels. You have to allow for the 1" overlap of each panel when making the finger joint, as this gives the boat an attractive finished look.
This system makes a simple but very nice boat and has a recognizable canoe look and shape with a gentle "v" bottom, rather than a flat bottom.
1-3. Cut the panels.
Once the panels have been drawn out and checked for nice curving lines, it's time to cut them out using a saber saw.
Once you have cut the panels out, use a woodworkers rasp (file) to smooth up the edges as close to the lines on the panel as possible. A small block plane could be used instead.
Now you can put the panel pieces together as stated above with finger joints, scarves or butt blocks. More specific instructions on how to do each of these joints is easily available online.
1-4. Drill holes in the panels.
Now that the panels are done, it's time to drill some holes along the bottom edges, about 3/8" from the top and bottom edges of each panel.
This job is easier and faster if you lay the two matching panels (the corresponding panels on either side) together and drill the holes.
This boat has only three panels per side, with each of the three being the same on either side of the canoe.
1-5. Stitch up the panels.
Get some bailing, copper or any soft, easy-to-bend wire from the hardware store. Cut short pieces of wire about 3" long, you will need quite a few of these, about half a pie pan full. However, you can always cut more if you need them.
Lay the two bottom panels on top of each other and wire the center/bottom edges together, but don't pull the wire too tight. Leave the wire loose, so you can open the bottom two panels up like a book. This will be the bottom of your canoe.
Now, starting in the center, wire (stitch) on the next panel, putting a few stitches on each side of the center line. Keep working from side to side doing a few on each side until you get to the ends.
When you get to the upper panels, line up the ends and stitch them together. Try to keep them as even as possible, with a nice canoe end curve. You should begin to see the canoe coming together at this point.
1-6. Review your work.
With the panels stitched together, put a stick about 1" square and 29" long at the top center inside of the canoe. This will hold it to the right width and shape. Now, stand back and look it over.
Is it fair, with nice flowing lines and no twist? If not tighten or loosen the wire stitches as necessary, or even add a stitch if needed. Make sure it looks pleasing to the eye.
Check to see if there is any twist in the canoe, using winding sticks. Make sure the panel edges are all sitting on top of each other nice and tight and not overlapping at any point.
You can also do a trick called cutting a transition joint, which is a 1/4 or 3/8" notch cut 24-36" (depending on the width of the panel and length of the canoe) into the bottom front edge of the top panels. This gives you a nice smooth side. More detailed instructions on how to do a transition joint can be found in many books covering stitch and glue boat building or on the internet.
Finally, be sure that the panels are not pushed out from each other at any one point, you want nice, smooth-stitched seams.
2. Bonding the Panels
2-1. Apply some epoxy.
Mix up just enough epoxy to cover the joints between the panels. This is done by using a mixing cup (8oz.) and a stick. Then use a foam paint brush to apply the epoxy to the joints.
Try to cover each edge about an inch on either side of the joint, making sure that it soaks into the joint to get a good bond. Make it look like you're painting a strip down the joint. Remember that the joints of the panels and stems only get epoxied on the inside for now.
Repeat this process for each of the joints. Try not to let the epoxy run down the sides of the panels -- you only want it on the joint, no runs. If you have any runs, use another brush to wipe them up. This just makes life easier when it comes to sanding the inside of the boat. Remember to check the outside of the seams for runs as well.
Put two coats of epoxy on the joints and stems (stems are the ends of the boat), letting the epoxy dry before re-coating. Be sure the stems are pulled tightly together (using the stitches) before applying the epoxy. Don't use clamps to pull the stems ends together, stitches only!
Each coat of epoxy needs about 24 hours to dry, so try to have a little patience while dreaming of that smooth glassy lake!
2-2. Remove the wire stitches.
When the epoxy is dry, check to ensure that the joints are fully epoxied with no dry spots (areas without epoxy). If they are, you can start cutting and pulling out the wire stitches.
Do this with care, as the panels' joints are still fragile at this point. Try not to break the epoxy join, and don't leave any wire in the boat.
If you pull out a wire and the joint opens, put a stitch back in and epoxy that joint area again.
2-3. Apply a mixture of epoxy and wood flour.
Once all of the wire is out, mix up some epoxy and wood flour (very fine sawdust). You can find wood flour at any boat building supplier. This mixture is known as a fillet.
Mix the wood flour and epoxy to a smooth creamy mixture -- it shouldn't be runny. Apply this fillet to the joints that you put the epoxy on.
Make a nice smooth bead about 1-1/2-2" wide over the center of each joint, then apply a smooth bead of fillet to the inside of the stem ends.
Make the stem end fillets about 3/4" thick on the inside -- although this adds weight, it has the benefit of making the stem nice and strong.
However, you should be careful not to add too much epoxy, as it can become brittle.
2-4. Add fiberglass tape to the inside of the boat.
Now it's time to add a 3" wide fiberglass tape (which is cloth-like, rather than sticky) to the freshly fillet-coated joints and stems.
Apply another coat of epoxy, smoothing it over the fiberglass until it turns clear. To make the joint as smooth as possible, add just enough epoxy to turn the fiberglass clear, then use a squeegee to remove any excess. Remember that applying too much epoxy is as bad as applying too little.
Be gentle while doing this, as you don't want to push the fresh fillet mix out of the joint when you push down on the fiberglass with the squeegee.
When you get to the stems, add a 3" wide strip of fiberglass to the inside of the stems (over the fillet). Allow the stem end fiberglass to come down over the center strip of fiberglass tape, as this will make one complete, strong joint.
You will need to add a second coat of epoxy to these tapes after the first coat cures, again waiting 24 hours between each coat.
2-5. Sand the boat.
Once the second coat of epoxy has dried, it's time to turn the boat over. Enlist the help of another person to turn the boat over -- remember to be very gentle, as the boat is still fragile at this point.
Now use a fine rasp (woodworkers file) to smooth over the edges of the bottom and lower panel joints, being careful not to splinter the thin plywood. Then use sandpaper (80 grit) to smooth up the joint edge, being careful not to sand too deep into the plywood.
Sand the entire outside of the boat, using a 120 grit sandpaper. Make sure to clean up any drips and runs from the epoxy that ran through the joints. Remember to sand with care - don't sand into the thin layers of the 1/8' plywood as this takes away from the canoe's outer skin and leaves hollow flat spots.
When the sanding is done wipe off the excess dust using a cheesecloth, then use compressed air and a clean cloth to remove the more stubborn dust. Sweep the floor, and wait until the dust has settled before proceeding.
2-6. Apply epoxy and fiberglass to the outside of the boat.
Once the dust has settled, you can apply a thin, even coat of epoxy to the smooth, bare wood on the outside of the canoe using a good foam brush. Again, 24 hours to wait for the epoxy to dry.
Lightly sand the epoxy-coated outside of the boat with 120 grit paper. This is only necessary to provide a tooth for the next coat of epoxy and fiberglass to hold to.
Now it's time to add fiberglass cloth to the outside of the boat. The fiberglass can weigh anywhere between 4 oz and 8oz, depending on the intended use of the canoe. The larger the fiberglass the heavier the canoe will be as the heavier fiberglass requires more epoxy.
Use the same technique of applying the fiberglass to the outside of the boat, then applying a layer of epoxy on top. If you have never done this before, it's a good idea to read as much as you can about it first. Being informed will help you do a really nice job on the boat.
2-7. Trim the fiberglass and epoxy.
You will need to trim the epoxy and fiberglass cloth approximately two hours after applying, just before the epoxy starts to harden.
If you wait until the epoxy hardens, it will be very hard to trim the excess fiberglass cloth from the edges of the canoe.
To trim the fiberglass cloth, use a razor knife and trim off the cloth along the gunnel's edges. Be gentle while trimming -- try not to pull on the cloth as it is still wet and it will move and cause you problems.
2-8. Add another coat of epoxy, then sand the boat.
After the first coat of epoxy has been applied to the fiberglass cloth and is dry, add another coat to fill the weave of the cloth, giving you a nice smooth surface.
Be aware that it might take more than two coats to fill the weave of the cloth depending on the type and weight of the cloth.
With the fiberglass on and trimmed, give the outside a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper, then clean off all dust. You can now clear coat or paint the boat.
3. Finishing the Job
3-1. Turn the boat over.
Carefully turn the boat right side up and place it in a cradle or in slings. This is a good time to build a set of saw horses to set and cradle the canoe in so it won't move while you work on the inside.
3-2. Attach the gunnels.
Gunnels are the top rails of the canoe, which are placed on the inside and outside edges on both sides of the canoe.
Gunnels give a completed look to the canoe, while also serving to protect the sides of the canoe as rub rails.
Each gunnel should be about 1-1-1/4"x3/8-1/2" square, with the top outside and inside edges rounded over. Use epoxy and brass or bronze screws to attach the gunnels at the front 24-30" of the gunnels. You can use the epoxy and spring clamps to attach the gunnels to the canoe until the epoxy dries.
At the stem ends on top of the canoe you can fit small decks, on top of the rails or between them, if you take the time and effort to make a good fit. Flush decks look the best.
3-3. Apply a second coat of clear varnish or paint.
Keep in mind that you will have to do one or the other, as epoxy alone will not last when exposed to the sun. When you've finished painting or varnishing the outside, it's time to turn the canoe over and do the inside, clear coat or paint.
3-4. Sand, epoxy and paint the inside of the boat.
Sand the inside of the boat, removing any drips or runs. Try to not sand through the top plywood layer.
When all the sanding is done, it's time to coat the inside of the boat with. For best results, do this in two or three thin layers of epoxy, waiting 24 hours between coats.
When this is all done you can sand the last coat lightly with a 120 grit sandpaper and then a 220 grit to get a really smooth finish.
Wipe away any dust, then paint or varnish the inside.
3-5. Add seats.
You can add seats before or after you epoxy coat the inside of the boat.
All seats should be about 1-1-1/2" from the bottom of the canoe, not hanging from the gunnels.
On a light canoe (such as this one) with a low freeboard, it's best to keep the center of gravity as low in the boat as possible.
3-6. Give the boat time to dry.
Let the whole thing set for about a week -- this gives the layers of epoxy and finish time to dry completely.
Tips
Only use epoxy plenty fresh air (ventilation) when boat building to avoid possible permanent nerve damage caused by inhaling fumes.
Read all you can find about stitch and glue boat building. The more you know the less problems you'll have and the happier you'll be.
Don't get into a hurry, this is very hard to control, but an issue you must work on.
Warnings
A wooden boat won't sink; it may swamp, but will still float, so if you fall out and the boat fills with water, stay with it, it could save your life.
Keep the area you work in clean, well vented and a fire extinguisher on hand all the time.
Epoxy is toxic and you can get very sick from prolonged exposure to epoxy. Try not to breath the fumes or let the epoxy (or its components) come in contact with your skin. Use safety gear, safety glass' prevent splatter into your eyes, an air filter (charcoal) and lots of ventilation are recommended, rubber or vinyl gloves, and an old long sleeve shirt.
Always use Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs) when you are in a boat. Do not sit on your PFDs. Certain states and local laws specifically require PFDs for young people.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Frame\\n1-1. Rip and attach the plywood sheets.\\nRip two sheets of 4'x8'x1/8\\\" (door skin plywood) into 24\\\" wide sheets, stack and attach these 24\\\"x 8' sheets together at the top and bottom edges with small nails in a few spots.\\n1-2. Mark out your measurements.\\nLay out the attached panels and mark a vertical line every 12\\\" along the entire 8' length of the plywood. From these 12\\\" vertical lines, measurements are made by marking points on these lines.\\nA long stick or batten is used to draw a line between these points giving the outlines of the canoe's panels. Make sure the lines drawn for the panels are all fair, smooth curves.\\nOnly three panels are needed per side. The four half sheets of 8' plywood are used to make 12 boat panels, then these 12 panels are put together in matching pairs with butt blocks or scarf joints to make up the total 6 panels or 3 per side.\\nFinger joints, using a dovetail template and a router will also make good joints to join the panels. You have to allow for the 1\\\" overlap of each panel when making the finger joint, as this gives the boat an attractive finished look.\\nThis system makes a simple but very nice boat and has a recognizable canoe look and shape with a gentle \\\"v\\\" bottom, rather than a flat bottom.\\n1-3. Cut the panels.\\nOnce the panels have been drawn out and checked for nice curving lines, it's time to cut them out using a saber saw.\\nOnce you have cut the panels out, use a woodworkers rasp (file) to smooth up the edges as close to the lines on the panel as possible. A small block plane could be used instead.\\nNow you can put the panel pieces together as stated above with finger joints, scarves or butt blocks. More specific instructions on how to do each of these joints is easily available online.\\n1-4. Drill holes in the panels.\\nNow that the panels are done, it's time to drill some holes along the bottom edges, about 3/8\\\" from the top and bottom edges of each panel.\\nThis job is easier and faster if you lay the two matching panels (the corresponding panels on either side) together and drill the holes.\\nThis boat has only three panels per side, with each of the three being the same on either side of the canoe.\\n1-5. Stitch up the panels.\\nGet some bailing, copper or any soft, easy-to-bend wire from the hardware store. Cut short pieces of wire about 3\\\" long, you will need quite a few of these, about half a pie pan full. However, you can always cut more if you need them.\\nLay the two bottom panels on top of each other and wire the center/bottom edges together, but don't pull the wire too tight. Leave the wire loose, so you can open the bottom two panels up like a book. This will be the bottom of your canoe.\\nNow, starting in the center, wire (stitch) on the next panel, putting a few stitches on each side of the center line. Keep working from side to side doing a few on each side until you get to the ends.\\nWhen you get to the upper panels, line up the ends and stitch them together. Try to keep them as even as possible, with a nice canoe end curve. You should begin to see the canoe coming together at this point.\\n1-6. Review your work.\\nWith the panels stitched together, put a stick about 1\\\" square and 29\\\" long at the top center inside of the canoe. This will hold it to the right width and shape. Now, stand back and look it over.\\nIs it fair, with nice flowing lines and no twist? If not tighten or loosen the wire stitches as necessary, or even add a stitch if needed. Make sure it looks pleasing to the eye.\\nCheck to see if there is any twist in the canoe, using winding sticks. Make sure the panel edges are all sitting on top of each other nice and tight and not overlapping at any point.\\nYou can also do a trick called cutting a transition joint, which is a 1/4 or 3/8\\\" notch cut 24-36\\\" (depending on the width of the panel and length of the canoe) into the bottom front edge of the top panels. This gives you a nice smooth side. More detailed instructions on how to do a transition joint can be found in many books covering stitch and glue boat building or on the internet.\\nFinally, be sure that the panels are not pushed out from each other at any one point, you want nice, smooth-stitched seams.\\n2. Bonding the Panels\\n2-1. Apply some epoxy.\\nMix up just enough epoxy to cover the joints between the panels. This is done by using a mixing cup (8oz.) and a stick. Then use a foam paint brush to apply the epoxy to the joints.\\nTry to cover each edge about an inch on either side of the joint, making sure that it soaks into the joint to get a good bond. Make it look like you're painting a strip down the joint. Remember that the joints of the panels and stems only get epoxied on the inside for now.\\nRepeat this process for each of the joints. Try not to let the epoxy run down the sides of the panels -- you only want it on the joint, no runs. If you have any runs, use another brush to wipe them up. This just makes life easier when it comes to sanding the inside of the boat. Remember to check the outside of the seams for runs as well.\\nPut two coats of epoxy on the joints and stems (stems are the ends of the boat), letting the epoxy dry before re-coating. Be sure the stems are pulled tightly together (using the stitches) before applying the epoxy. Don't use clamps to pull the stems ends together, stitches only!\\nEach coat of epoxy needs about 24 hours to dry, so try to have a little patience while dreaming of that smooth glassy lake!\\n2-2. Remove the wire stitches.\\nWhen the epoxy is dry, check to ensure that the joints are fully epoxied with no dry spots (areas without epoxy). If they are, you can start cutting and pulling out the wire stitches.\\nDo this with care, as the panels' joints are still fragile at this point. Try not to break the epoxy join, and don't leave any wire in the boat.\\nIf you pull out a wire and the joint opens, put a stitch back in and epoxy that joint area again.\\n2-3. Apply a mixture of epoxy and wood flour.\\nOnce all of the wire is out, mix up some epoxy and wood flour (very fine sawdust). You can find wood flour at any boat building supplier. This mixture is known as a fillet.\\nMix the wood flour and epoxy to a smooth creamy mixture -- it shouldn't be runny. Apply this fillet to the joints that you put the epoxy on.\\nMake a nice smooth bead about 1-1/2-2\\\" wide over the center of each joint, then apply a smooth bead of fillet to the inside of the stem ends.\\nMake the stem end fillets about 3/4\\\" thick on the inside -- although this adds weight, it has the benefit of making the stem nice and strong.\\nHowever, you should be careful not to add too much epoxy, as it can become brittle.\\n2-4. Add fiberglass tape to the inside of the boat.\\nNow it's time to add a 3\\\" wide fiberglass tape (which is cloth-like, rather than sticky) to the freshly fillet-coated joints and stems.\\nApply another coat of epoxy, smoothing it over the fiberglass until it turns clear. To make the joint as smooth as possible, add just enough epoxy to turn the fiberglass clear, then use a squeegee to remove any excess. Remember that applying too much epoxy is as bad as applying too little.\\nBe gentle while doing this, as you don't want to push the fresh fillet mix out of the joint when you push down on the fiberglass with the squeegee.\\nWhen you get to the stems, add a 3\\\" wide strip of fiberglass to the inside of the stems (over the fillet). Allow the stem end fiberglass to come down over the center strip of fiberglass tape, as this will make one complete, strong joint.\\nYou will need to add a second coat of epoxy to these tapes after the first coat cures, again waiting 24 hours between each coat.\\n2-5. Sand the boat.\\nOnce the second coat of epoxy has dried, it's time to turn the boat over. Enlist the help of another person to turn the boat over -- remember to be very gentle, as the boat is still fragile at this point.\\nNow use a fine rasp (woodworkers file) to smooth over the edges of the bottom and lower panel joints, being careful not to splinter the thin plywood. Then use sandpaper (80 grit) to smooth up the joint edge, being careful not to sand too deep into the plywood.\\nSand the entire outside of the boat, using a 120 grit sandpaper. Make sure to clean up any drips and runs from the epoxy that ran through the joints. Remember to sand with care - don't sand into the thin layers of the 1/8' plywood as this takes away from the canoe's outer skin and leaves hollow flat spots.\\nWhen the sanding is done wipe off the excess dust using a cheesecloth, then use compressed air and a clean cloth to remove the more stubborn dust. Sweep the floor, and wait until the dust has settled before proceeding.\\n2-6. Apply epoxy and fiberglass to the outside of the boat.\\nOnce the dust has settled, you can apply a thin, even coat of epoxy to the smooth, bare wood on the outside of the canoe using a good foam brush. Again, 24 hours to wait for the epoxy to dry.\\nLightly sand the epoxy-coated outside of the boat with 120 grit paper. This is only necessary to provide a tooth for the next coat of epoxy and fiberglass to hold to.\\nNow it's time to add fiberglass cloth to the outside of the boat. The fiberglass can weigh anywhere between 4 oz and 8oz, depending on the intended use of the canoe. The larger the fiberglass the heavier the canoe will be as the heavier fiberglass requires more epoxy.\\nUse the same technique of applying the fiberglass to the outside of the boat, then applying a layer of epoxy on top. If you have never done this before, it's a good idea to read as much as you can about it first. Being informed will help you do a really nice job on the boat.\\n2-7. Trim the fiberglass and epoxy.\\nYou will need to trim the epoxy and fiberglass cloth approximately two hours after applying, just before the epoxy starts to harden.\\nIf you wait until the epoxy hardens, it will be very hard to trim the excess fiberglass cloth from the edges of the canoe.\\nTo trim the fiberglass cloth, use a razor knife and trim off the cloth along the gunnel's edges. Be gentle while trimming -- try not to pull on the cloth as it is still wet and it will move and cause you problems.\\n2-8. Add another coat of epoxy, then sand the boat.\\nAfter the first coat of epoxy has been applied to the fiberglass cloth and is dry, add another coat to fill the weave of the cloth, giving you a nice smooth surface.\\nBe aware that it might take more than two coats to fill the weave of the cloth depending on the type and weight of the cloth.\\nWith the fiberglass on and trimmed, give the outside a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper, then clean off all dust. You can now clear coat or paint the boat.\\n3. Finishing the Job\\n3-1. Turn the boat over.\\nCarefully turn the boat right side up and place it in a cradle or in slings. This is a good time to build a set of saw horses to set and cradle the canoe in so it won't move while you work on the inside.\\n3-2. Attach the gunnels.\\nGunnels are the top rails of the canoe, which are placed on the inside and outside edges on both sides of the canoe. \\nGunnels give a completed look to the canoe, while also serving to protect the sides of the canoe as rub rails.\\nEach gunnel should be about 1-1-1/4\\\"x3/8-1/2\\\" square, with the top outside and inside edges rounded over. Use epoxy and brass or bronze screws to attach the gunnels at the front 24-30\\\" of the gunnels. You can use the epoxy and spring clamps to attach the gunnels to the canoe until the epoxy dries.\\nAt the stem ends on top of the canoe you can fit small decks, on top of the rails or between them, if you take the time and effort to make a good fit. Flush decks look the best.\\n3-3. Apply a second coat of clear varnish or paint.\\nKeep in mind that you will have to do one or the other, as epoxy alone will not last when exposed to the sun. When you've finished painting or varnishing the outside, it's time to turn the canoe over and do the inside, clear coat or paint.\\n3-4. Sand, epoxy and paint the inside of the boat.\\nSand the inside of the boat, removing any drips or runs. Try to not sand through the top plywood layer.\\nWhen all the sanding is done, it's time to coat the inside of the boat with. For best results, do this in two or three thin layers of epoxy, waiting 24 hours between coats.\\nWhen this is all done you can sand the last coat lightly with a 120 grit sandpaper and then a 220 grit to get a really smooth finish.\\nWipe away any dust, then paint or varnish the inside.\\n3-5. Add seats.\\nYou can add seats before or after you epoxy coat the inside of the boat. \\nAll seats should be about 1-1-1/2\\\" from the bottom of the canoe, not hanging from the gunnels.\\nOn a light canoe (such as this one) with a low freeboard, it's best to keep the center of gravity as low in the boat as possible.\\n3-6. Give the boat time to dry.\\nLet the whole thing set for about a week -- this gives the layers of epoxy and finish time to dry completely.\\nTips\\nOnly use epoxy plenty fresh air (ventilation) when boat building to avoid possible permanent nerve damage caused by inhaling fumes.\\nRead all you can find about stitch and glue boat building. The more you know the less problems you'll have and the happier you'll be.\\nDon't get into a hurry, this is very hard to control, but an issue you must work on.\\nWarnings\\nA wooden boat won't sink; it may swamp, but will still float, so if you fall out and the boat fills with water, stay with it, it could save your life.\\nKeep the area you work in clean, well vented and a fire extinguisher on hand all the time.\\nEpoxy is toxic and you can get very sick from prolonged exposure to epoxy. Try not to breath the fumes or let the epoxy (or its components) come in contact with your skin. Use safety gear, safety glass' prevent splatter into your eyes, an air filter (charcoal) and lots of ventilation are recommended, rubber or vinyl gloves, and an old long sleeve shirt.\\nAlways use Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs) when you are in a boat. Do not sit on your PFDs. Certain states and local laws specifically require PFDs for young people.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Little boats are perfect for trips around the lake. They fit on the roof of your car and in the back of truck beds, making them perfect for spontaneous camping trips. This article describes a method for building a canoe, (12'x30\\\", with 11\\\" depth), using a stitch and glue style of boat building.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Rip and attach the plywood sheets.\", \"描述\": \"Rip two sheets of 4'x8'x1/8\\\" (door skin plywood) into 24\\\" wide sheets, stack and attach these 24\\\"x 8' sheets together at the top and bottom edges with small nails in a few spots.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark out your measurements.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out the attached panels and mark a vertical line every 12\\\" along the entire 8' length of the plywood. From these 12\\\" vertical lines, measurements are made by marking points on these lines.\\nA long stick or batten is used to draw a line between these points giving the outlines of the canoe's panels. Make sure the lines drawn for the panels are all fair, smooth curves.\\nOnly three panels are needed per side. The four half sheets of 8' plywood are used to make 12 boat panels, then these 12 panels are put together in matching pairs with butt blocks or scarf joints to make up the total 6 panels or 3 per side.\\nFinger joints, using a dovetail template and a router will also make good joints to join the panels. You have to allow for the 1\\\" overlap of each panel when making the finger joint, as this gives the boat an attractive finished look.\\nThis system makes a simple but very nice boat and has a recognizable canoe look and shape with a gentle \\\"v\\\" bottom, rather than a flat bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the panels.\", \"描述\": \"Once the panels have been drawn out and checked for nice curving lines, it's time to cut them out using a saber saw.\\nOnce you have cut the panels out, use a woodworkers rasp (file) to smooth up the edges as close to the lines on the panel as possible. A small block plane could be used instead.\\nNow you can put the panel pieces together as stated above with finger joints, scarves or butt blocks. More specific instructions on how to do each of these joints is easily available online.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill holes in the panels.\", \"描述\": \"Now that the panels are done, it's time to drill some holes along the bottom edges, about 3/8\\\" from the top and bottom edges of each panel.\\nThis job is easier and faster if you lay the two matching panels (the corresponding panels on either side) together and drill the holes.\\nThis boat has only three panels per side, with each of the three being the same on either side of the canoe.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Stitch up the panels.\", \"描述\": \"Get some bailing, copper or any soft, easy-to-bend wire from the hardware store. Cut short pieces of wire about 3\\\" long, you will need quite a few of these, about half a pie pan full. However, you can always cut more if you need them.\\nLay the two bottom panels on top of each other and wire the center/bottom edges together, but don't pull the wire too tight. Leave the wire loose, so you can open the bottom two panels up like a book. This will be the bottom of your canoe.\\nNow, starting in the center, wire (stitch) on the next panel, putting a few stitches on each side of the center line. Keep working from side to side doing a few on each side until you get to the ends.\\nWhen you get to the upper panels, line up the ends and stitch them together. Try to keep them as even as possible, with a nice canoe end curve. You should begin to see the canoe coming together at this point.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Review your work.\", \"描述\": \"With the panels stitched together, put a stick about 1\\\" square and 29\\\" long at the top center inside of the canoe. This will hold it to the right width and shape. Now, stand back and look it over.\\nIs it fair, with nice flowing lines and no twist? If not tighten or loosen the wire stitches as necessary, or even add a stitch if needed. Make sure it looks pleasing to the eye.\\nCheck to see if there is any twist in the canoe, using winding sticks. Make sure the panel edges are all sitting on top of each other nice and tight and not overlapping at any point.\\nYou can also do a trick called cutting a transition joint, which is a 1/4 or 3/8\\\" notch cut 24-36\\\" (depending on the width of the panel and length of the canoe) into the bottom front edge of the top panels. This gives you a nice smooth side. More detailed instructions on how to do a transition joint can be found in many books covering stitch and glue boat building or on the internet.\\nFinally, be sure that the panels are not pushed out from each other at any one point, you want nice, smooth-stitched seams.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Bonding the Panels\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Apply some epoxy.\", \"描述\": \"Mix up just enough epoxy to cover the joints between the panels. This is done by using a mixing cup (8oz.) and a stick. Then use a foam paint brush to apply the epoxy to the joints.\\nTry to cover each edge about an inch on either side of the joint, making sure that it soaks into the joint to get a good bond. Make it look like you're painting a strip down the joint. Remember that the joints of the panels and stems only get epoxied on the inside for now.\\nRepeat this process for each of the joints. Try not to let the epoxy run down the sides of the panels -- you only want it on the joint, no runs. If you have any runs, use another brush to wipe them up. This just makes life easier when it comes to sanding the inside of the boat. Remember to check the outside of the seams for runs as well.\\nPut two coats of epoxy on the joints and stems (stems are the ends of the boat), letting the epoxy dry before re-coating. Be sure the stems are pulled tightly together (using the stitches) before applying the epoxy. Don't use clamps to pull the stems ends together, stitches only!\\nEach coat of epoxy needs about 24 hours to dry, so try to have a little patience while dreaming of that smooth glassy lake!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove the wire stitches.\", \"描述\": \"When the epoxy is dry, check to ensure that the joints are fully epoxied with no dry spots (areas without epoxy). If they are, you can start cutting and pulling out the wire stitches.\\nDo this with care, as the panels' joints are still fragile at this point. Try not to break the epoxy join, and don't leave any wire in the boat.\\nIf you pull out a wire and the joint opens, put a stitch back in and epoxy that joint area again.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Apply a mixture of epoxy and wood flour.\", \"描述\": \"Once all of the wire is out, mix up some epoxy and wood flour (very fine sawdust). You can find wood flour at any boat building supplier. This mixture is known as a fillet.\\nMix the wood flour and epoxy to a smooth creamy mixture -- it shouldn't be runny. Apply this fillet to the joints that you put the epoxy on.\\nMake a nice smooth bead about 1-1/2-2\\\" wide over the center of each joint, then apply a smooth bead of fillet to the inside of the stem ends.\\nMake the stem end fillets about 3/4\\\" thick on the inside -- although this adds weight, it has the benefit of making the stem nice and strong.\\nHowever, you should be careful not to add too much epoxy, as it can become brittle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add fiberglass tape to the inside of the boat.\", \"描述\": \"Now it's time to add a 3\\\" wide fiberglass tape (which is cloth-like, rather than sticky) to the freshly fillet-coated joints and stems.\\nApply another coat of epoxy, smoothing it over the fiberglass until it turns clear. To make the joint as smooth as possible, add just enough epoxy to turn the fiberglass clear, then use a squeegee to remove any excess. Remember that applying too much epoxy is as bad as applying too little.\\nBe gentle while doing this, as you don't want to push the fresh fillet mix out of the joint when you push down on the fiberglass with the squeegee.\\nWhen you get to the stems, add a 3\\\" wide strip of fiberglass to the inside of the stems (over the fillet). Allow the stem end fiberglass to come down over the center strip of fiberglass tape, as this will make one complete, strong joint.\\nYou will need to add a second coat of epoxy to these tapes after the first coat cures, again waiting 24 hours between each coat.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Sand the boat.\", \"描述\": \"Once the second coat of epoxy has dried, it's time to turn the boat over. Enlist the help of another person to turn the boat over -- remember to be very gentle, as the boat is still fragile at this point.\\nNow use a fine rasp (woodworkers file) to smooth over the edges of the bottom and lower panel joints, being careful not to splinter the thin plywood. Then use sandpaper (80 grit) to smooth up the joint edge, being careful not to sand too deep into the plywood.\\nSand the entire outside of the boat, using a 120 grit sandpaper. Make sure to clean up any drips and runs from the epoxy that ran through the joints. Remember to sand with care - don't sand into the thin layers of the 1/8' plywood as this takes away from the canoe's outer skin and leaves hollow flat spots.\\nWhen the sanding is done wipe off the excess dust using a cheesecloth, then use compressed air and a clean cloth to remove the more stubborn dust. Sweep the floor, and wait until the dust has settled before proceeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Apply epoxy and fiberglass to the outside of the boat.\", \"描述\": \"Once the dust has settled, you can apply a thin, even coat of epoxy to the smooth, bare wood on the outside of the canoe using a good foam brush. Again, 24 hours to wait for the epoxy to dry.\\nLightly sand the epoxy-coated outside of the boat with 120 grit paper. This is only necessary to provide a tooth for the next coat of epoxy and fiberglass to hold to.\\nNow it's time to add fiberglass cloth to the outside of the boat. The fiberglass can weigh anywhere between 4 oz and 8oz, depending on the intended use of the canoe. The larger the fiberglass the heavier the canoe will be as the heavier fiberglass requires more epoxy.\\nUse the same technique of applying the fiberglass to the outside of the boat, then applying a layer of epoxy on top. If you have never done this before, it's a good idea to read as much as you can about it first. Being informed will help you do a really nice job on the boat.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Trim the fiberglass and epoxy.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to trim the epoxy and fiberglass cloth approximately two hours after applying, just before the epoxy starts to harden.\\nIf you wait until the epoxy hardens, it will be very hard to trim the excess fiberglass cloth from the edges of the canoe.\\nTo trim the fiberglass cloth, use a razor knife and trim off the cloth along the gunnel's edges. Be gentle while trimming -- try not to pull on the cloth as it is still wet and it will move and cause you problems.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add another coat of epoxy, then sand the boat.\", \"描述\": \"After the first coat of epoxy has been applied to the fiberglass cloth and is dry, add another coat to fill the weave of the cloth, giving you a nice smooth surface.\\nBe aware that it might take more than two coats to fill the weave of the cloth depending on the type and weight of the cloth.\\nWith the fiberglass on and trimmed, give the outside a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper, then clean off all dust. You can now clear coat or paint the boat.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Job\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Turn the boat over.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully turn the boat right side up and place it in a cradle or in slings. This is a good time to build a set of saw horses to set and cradle the canoe in so it won't move while you work on the inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the gunnels.\", \"描述\": \"Gunnels are the top rails of the canoe, which are placed on the inside and outside edges on both sides of the canoe. \\nGunnels give a completed look to the canoe, while also serving to protect the sides of the canoe as rub rails.\\nEach gunnel should be about 1-1-1/4\\\"x3/8-1/2\\\" square, with the top outside and inside edges rounded over. Use epoxy and brass or bronze screws to attach the gunnels at the front 24-30\\\" of the gunnels. You can use the epoxy and spring clamps to attach the gunnels to the canoe until the epoxy dries.\\nAt the stem ends on top of the canoe you can fit small decks, on top of the rails or between them, if you take the time and effort to make a good fit. Flush decks look the best.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Apply a second coat of clear varnish or paint.\", \"描述\": \"Keep in mind that you will have to do one or the other, as epoxy alone will not last when exposed to the sun. When you've finished painting or varnishing the outside, it's time to turn the canoe over and do the inside, clear coat or paint.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Sand, epoxy and paint the inside of the boat.\", \"描述\": \"Sand the inside of the boat, removing any drips or runs. Try to not sand through the top plywood layer.\\nWhen all the sanding is done, it's time to coat the inside of the boat with. For best results, do this in two or three thin layers of epoxy, waiting 24 hours between coats.\\nWhen this is all done you can sand the last coat lightly with a 120 grit sandpaper and then a 220 grit to get a really smooth finish.\\nWipe away any dust, then paint or varnish the inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add seats.\", \"描述\": \"You can add seats before or after you epoxy coat the inside of the boat. \\nAll seats should be about 1-1-1/2\\\" from the bottom of the canoe, not hanging from the gunnels.\\nOn a light canoe (such as this one) with a low freeboard, it's best to keep the center of gravity as low in the boat as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Give the boat time to dry.\", \"描述\": \"Let the whole thing set for about a week -- this gives the layers of epoxy and finish time to dry completely.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Only use epoxy plenty fresh air (ventilation) when boat building to avoid possible permanent nerve damage caused by inhaling fumes.\\n\", \"Read all you can find about stitch and glue boat building. The more you know the less problems you'll have and the happier you'll be.\\n\", \"Don't get into a hurry, this is very hard to control, but an issue you must work on.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"A wooden boat won't sink; it may swamp, but will still float, so if you fall out and the boat fills with water, stay with it, it could save your life.\\n\", \"Keep the area you work in clean, well vented and a fire extinguisher on hand all the time.\\n\", \"Epoxy is toxic and you can get very sick from prolonged exposure to epoxy. Try not to breath the fumes or let the epoxy (or its components) come in contact with your skin. Use safety gear, safety glass' prevent splatter into your eyes, an air filter (charcoal) and lots of ventilation are recommended, rubber or vinyl gloves, and an old long sleeve shirt.\\n\", \"Always use Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs) when you are in a boat. Do not sit on your PFDs. Certain states and local laws specifically require PFDs for young people.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,233 |
How to Build a Bocce Ball Court
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1. Mapping the Court Dimensions
1-1. Decide how large you would like your court to be.
A regulation-sized bocce ball court measures 13 ft by 91 ft (4 m by 28 m). However, unless you are planning to build a regulation-size bocce ball court, you can build the court any size you would like. As a broad rule of thumb, the court’s ratio of width to length should be between 1:5 and 1:7.
Build a court that will suit the dimensions of your backyard (or wherever you decide to build the court). If you are working with limited space, you could build a bocce court in as little space as 5 ft by 20 ft (1.5 m by 6 m).
1-2. Measure the length and width of your court.
Using a measuring tape, measure out the full length and width of your bocce court on the ground where you plan to build it. Keep in mind that you’ll need to add the dimensions for the backing material (e.g. the court frame) into your total width and length measurements. So, if you’re using 4x4 boards as your frame, you’ll need to add 8 inches (20 cm) to the length and width measurements.
For example, if you’re building a regulation-sized bocce court, you’ll need to measure the outer dimensions of the court to be 13 ft 8 inches by 91 ft 8 inches (4.2 m by 28 m).
1-3. Drive in stakes at the corners of the court.
Once you’ve measured out the length and width of the court, use a hammer to drive a stake into the ground at each corner. These will serve as markers to indicate the size of the court, and indicate the area you’ll excavate.
You can purchase a handful of wooden or plastic stakes at your local hardware store. They should be relatively inexpensive, and do not need to be made of a high-quality material.
2. Creating the Court
2-1. Dig out the court area.
The best way to flatten and level the area for your bocce court is by digging down about 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) into your soil. This will allow you to shovel out any rocks or clumps of soil that would disrupt the surface of the court, and will give you a pit to lay subsequent layers of the court.
The bocce court will need to be built on a level area, otherwise the playing surface will be distorted. If you’re concerned that your bocce court may collect rainfall during wet months, dig down less than 4 inches (10 cm).
2-2. Install and link the wooden border.
Although you can use any wooden material you like for the borders, pressure-treated 4x4 boards work well. Lay the 4x4s along the edges of your excavated bocce pit, setting them end to end. Using a carpenter’s level, make sure that all boards are even with the ground. Then fasten each 4x4 board to the adjacent boards using 10-inch (25 cm) spikes.
You can purchase all of the lumber you’ll need at a local hardware store. Plan ahead before you make your visit: if you’re building a regulation-size bocce court, and are buying 10-foot 3-meter) boards, you’ll need about 14 sections of wood.
2-3. Lay a base of washed crushed stone.
The base layer of your bocce court should be made of relatively large and stable stone. Use a shovel to lay a layer of 1-inch stone throughout the entire bocce court. If you’ve dug the court area 4 inches (10 cm) deep, plan to lay about a 2-inch (5 cm) layer of this large-stone material.
You can buy 1-inch washed crushed stone at a nearby hardware store or gardening center. If you’re having trouble finding the correct material, also try contacting a nearby rock quarry or gravel site.
2-4. Lay a second layer of crushed stone or gravel.
Once you have the 1-inch stone layer covering the entire excavated bocce pit, you can add the second layer. This layer should comprise smaller stones. There are no precise size requirements; gravel would work well, as would ½-inch crushed stone. Use your shovel blade to cover the entire bocce court with the gravel. The layer should be at least 1 inch (2 cm) thick.
As with the 1-inch washed crushed stone, you can purchase gravel or smaller crushed stones from a gravel site or landscaping company.
3. Laying the Playing Surface
3-1. Place a layer of ground oyster shells if you’re building a regulation court.
If you’re planning to build a regulation bocce court (or have dreams of becoming a professional bocce ball player), you’ll need to top your court with processed oyster shell. The layer only needs to be about ¼-inch (0.6 cm) thick. This material is incredibly fine grained, and will not be damaged or disturbed by rain storms.
Unless you live on the West coast of the United States (or in an international costal region), you’ll need to have your processed oyster shell shipped to your address.
You may be able to purchase ground oyster shells from a local landscaping company or from a feed and grain supplier. A small number of online retailers also sell and deliver ground oyster shell.
3-2. Lay sand as your top bocce court layer.
If you’re not looking for a professional playing surface—and want to save some money—you can skip the processed oyster shells. A layer of ordinary sand will provide a suitable playing surface. Pour the sand at least ½-inch (1.2 cm) thick over the underlying layer of stones or gravel, and use a shovel to smooth the sand and press it into all corners of your bocce court.
The primary disadvantage of sand is that it will become soggy and compacted following a rainstorm. You’ll need to rake the sand in order to help it dry and reduce its compactness.
3-3. Finish the court with artificial turf.
If you’d prefer not to play on processed oyster shells or on sand, you can lay artificial turf as the playing surface. This material is inexpensive and simple to maintain: it can be easily swept clean of twigs or debris.
You can obtain artificial turf at a gardening center or plant nursery. Also contact your local hardware store or even a sporting-goods store to see if they can provide the artificial turf.
Depending on the size of your bocce court and the size of turf sections that you can purchase, you may need to buy several sections of turf.
Tips
If you decide that the task of building a bocce ball court is more than you’re up for, you can call a contractor and ask them to install the court for you.
It’s also possible—and fun—to play bocce without a court. You can play on any field or lawn with manicured grass.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Mapping the Court Dimensions\\n1-1. Decide how large you would like your court to be.\\nA regulation-sized bocce ball court measures 13 ft by 91 ft (4 m by 28 m). However, unless you are planning to build a regulation-size bocce ball court, you can build the court any size you would like. As a broad rule of thumb, the court’s ratio of width to length should be between 1:5 and 1:7.\\nBuild a court that will suit the dimensions of your backyard (or wherever you decide to build the court). If you are working with limited space, you could build a bocce court in as little space as 5 ft by 20 ft (1.5 m by 6 m).\\n1-2. Measure the length and width of your court.\\nUsing a measuring tape, measure out the full length and width of your bocce court on the ground where you plan to build it. Keep in mind that you’ll need to add the dimensions for the backing material (e.g. the court frame) into your total width and length measurements. So, if you’re using 4x4 boards as your frame, you’ll need to add 8 inches (20 cm) to the length and width measurements.\\nFor example, if you’re building a regulation-sized bocce court, you’ll need to measure the outer dimensions of the court to be 13 ft 8 inches by 91 ft 8 inches (4.2 m by 28 m).\\n1-3. Drive in stakes at the corners of the court.\\nOnce you’ve measured out the length and width of the court, use a hammer to drive a stake into the ground at each corner. These will serve as markers to indicate the size of the court, and indicate the area you’ll excavate.\\nYou can purchase a handful of wooden or plastic stakes at your local hardware store. They should be relatively inexpensive, and do not need to be made of a high-quality material.\\n2. Creating the Court\\n2-1. Dig out the court area.\\nThe best way to flatten and level the area for your bocce court is by digging down about 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) into your soil. This will allow you to shovel out any rocks or clumps of soil that would disrupt the surface of the court, and will give you a pit to lay subsequent layers of the court.\\nThe bocce court will need to be built on a level area, otherwise the playing surface will be distorted. If you’re concerned that your bocce court may collect rainfall during wet months, dig down less than 4 inches (10 cm).\\n2-2. Install and link the wooden border.\\nAlthough you can use any wooden material you like for the borders, pressure-treated 4x4 boards work well. Lay the 4x4s along the edges of your excavated bocce pit, setting them end to end. Using a carpenter’s level, make sure that all boards are even with the ground. Then fasten each 4x4 board to the adjacent boards using 10-inch (25 cm) spikes.\\nYou can purchase all of the lumber you’ll need at a local hardware store. Plan ahead before you make your visit: if you’re building a regulation-size bocce court, and are buying 10-foot 3-meter) boards, you’ll need about 14 sections of wood.\\n2-3. Lay a base of washed crushed stone.\\nThe base layer of your bocce court should be made of relatively large and stable stone. Use a shovel to lay a layer of 1-inch stone throughout the entire bocce court. If you’ve dug the court area 4 inches (10 cm) deep, plan to lay about a 2-inch (5 cm) layer of this large-stone material.\\nYou can buy 1-inch washed crushed stone at a nearby hardware store or gardening center. If you’re having trouble finding the correct material, also try contacting a nearby rock quarry or gravel site.\\n2-4. Lay a second layer of crushed stone or gravel.\\nOnce you have the 1-inch stone layer covering the entire excavated bocce pit, you can add the second layer. This layer should comprise smaller stones. There are no precise size requirements; gravel would work well, as would ½-inch crushed stone. Use your shovel blade to cover the entire bocce court with the gravel. The layer should be at least 1 inch (2 cm) thick.\\nAs with the 1-inch washed crushed stone, you can purchase gravel or smaller crushed stones from a gravel site or landscaping company.\\n3. Laying the Playing Surface\\n3-1. Place a layer of ground oyster shells if you’re building a regulation court.\\nIf you’re planning to build a regulation bocce court (or have dreams of becoming a professional bocce ball player), you’ll need to top your court with processed oyster shell. The layer only needs to be about ¼-inch (0.6 cm) thick. This material is incredibly fine grained, and will not be damaged or disturbed by rain storms.\\nUnless you live on the West coast of the United States (or in an international costal region), you’ll need to have your processed oyster shell shipped to your address.\\nYou may be able to purchase ground oyster shells from a local landscaping company or from a feed and grain supplier. A small number of online retailers also sell and deliver ground oyster shell.\\n3-2. Lay sand as your top bocce court layer.\\nIf you’re not looking for a professional playing surface—and want to save some money—you can skip the processed oyster shells. A layer of ordinary sand will provide a suitable playing surface. Pour the sand at least ½-inch (1.2 cm) thick over the underlying layer of stones or gravel, and use a shovel to smooth the sand and press it into all corners of your bocce court.\\nThe primary disadvantage of sand is that it will become soggy and compacted following a rainstorm. You’ll need to rake the sand in order to help it dry and reduce its compactness.\\n3-3. Finish the court with artificial turf.\\nIf you’d prefer not to play on processed oyster shells or on sand, you can lay artificial turf as the playing surface. This material is inexpensive and simple to maintain: it can be easily swept clean of twigs or debris.\\nYou can obtain artificial turf at a gardening center or plant nursery. Also contact your local hardware store or even a sporting-goods store to see if they can provide the artificial turf.\\nDepending on the size of your bocce court and the size of turf sections that you can purchase, you may need to buy several sections of turf.\\nTips\\nIf you decide that the task of building a bocce ball court is more than you’re up for, you can call a contractor and ask them to install the court for you.\\nIt’s also possible—and fun—to play bocce without a court. You can play on any field or lawn with manicured grass.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Bocce ball is an old Italian lawn game traditionally played on a flat surface covered with sand or short grass and contained within a wooden border. Bocce is played by tossing different sized balls around the court and calculating points based on the balls' positions. To build a bocce court, you will first need to measure out the court's dimensions. Then lay your wooden border and fill it in with a base layer of rocks and a top layer of fine sand or ground oyster shells.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mapping the Court Dimensions\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide how large you would like your court to be.\", \"描述\": \"A regulation-sized bocce ball court measures 13 ft by 91 ft (4 m by 28 m). However, unless you are planning to build a regulation-size bocce ball court, you can build the court any size you would like. As a broad rule of thumb, the court’s ratio of width to length should be between 1:5 and 1:7.\\nBuild a court that will suit the dimensions of your backyard (or wherever you decide to build the court). If you are working with limited space, you could build a bocce court in as little space as 5 ft by 20 ft (1.5 m by 6 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure the length and width of your court.\", \"描述\": \"Using a measuring tape, measure out the full length and width of your bocce court on the ground where you plan to build it. Keep in mind that you’ll need to add the dimensions for the backing material (e.g. the court frame) into your total width and length measurements. So, if you’re using 4x4 boards as your frame, you’ll need to add 8 inches (20 cm) to the length and width measurements.\\nFor example, if you’re building a regulation-sized bocce court, you’ll need to measure the outer dimensions of the court to be 13 ft 8 inches by 91 ft 8 inches (4.2 m by 28 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drive in stakes at the corners of the court.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve measured out the length and width of the court, use a hammer to drive a stake into the ground at each corner. These will serve as markers to indicate the size of the court, and indicate the area you’ll excavate.\\nYou can purchase a handful of wooden or plastic stakes at your local hardware store. They should be relatively inexpensive, and do not need to be made of a high-quality material.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Court\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig out the court area.\", \"描述\": \"The best way to flatten and level the area for your bocce court is by digging down about 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) into your soil. This will allow you to shovel out any rocks or clumps of soil that would disrupt the surface of the court, and will give you a pit to lay subsequent layers of the court.\\nThe bocce court will need to be built on a level area, otherwise the playing surface will be distorted. If you’re concerned that your bocce court may collect rainfall during wet months, dig down less than 4 inches (10 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install and link the wooden border.\", \"描述\": \"Although you can use any wooden material you like for the borders, pressure-treated 4x4 boards work well. Lay the 4x4s along the edges of your excavated bocce pit, setting them end to end. Using a carpenter’s level, make sure that all boards are even with the ground. Then fasten each 4x4 board to the adjacent boards using 10-inch (25 cm) spikes.\\nYou can purchase all of the lumber you’ll need at a local hardware store. Plan ahead before you make your visit: if you’re building a regulation-size bocce court, and are buying 10-foot 3-meter) boards, you’ll need about 14 sections of wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay a base of washed crushed stone.\", \"描述\": \"The base layer of your bocce court should be made of relatively large and stable stone. Use a shovel to lay a layer of 1-inch stone throughout the entire bocce court. If you’ve dug the court area 4 inches (10 cm) deep, plan to lay about a 2-inch (5 cm) layer of this large-stone material.\\nYou can buy 1-inch washed crushed stone at a nearby hardware store or gardening center. If you’re having trouble finding the correct material, also try contacting a nearby rock quarry or gravel site.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay a second layer of crushed stone or gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the 1-inch stone layer covering the entire excavated bocce pit, you can add the second layer. This layer should comprise smaller stones. There are no precise size requirements; gravel would work well, as would ½-inch crushed stone. Use your shovel blade to cover the entire bocce court with the gravel. The layer should be at least 1 inch (2 cm) thick.\\nAs with the 1-inch washed crushed stone, you can purchase gravel or smaller crushed stones from a gravel site or landscaping company.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Laying the Playing Surface\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place a layer of ground oyster shells if you’re building a regulation court.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re planning to build a regulation bocce court (or have dreams of becoming a professional bocce ball player), you’ll need to top your court with processed oyster shell. The layer only needs to be about ¼-inch (0.6 cm) thick. This material is incredibly fine grained, and will not be damaged or disturbed by rain storms.\\nUnless you live on the West coast of the United States (or in an international costal region), you’ll need to have your processed oyster shell shipped to your address.\\nYou may be able to purchase ground oyster shells from a local landscaping company or from a feed and grain supplier. A small number of online retailers also sell and deliver ground oyster shell.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay sand as your top bocce court layer.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re not looking for a professional playing surface—and want to save some money—you can skip the processed oyster shells. A layer of ordinary sand will provide a suitable playing surface. Pour the sand at least ½-inch (1.2 cm) thick over the underlying layer of stones or gravel, and use a shovel to smooth the sand and press it into all corners of your bocce court.\\nThe primary disadvantage of sand is that it will become soggy and compacted following a rainstorm. You’ll need to rake the sand in order to help it dry and reduce its compactness.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finish the court with artificial turf.\", \"描述\": \"If you’d prefer not to play on processed oyster shells or on sand, you can lay artificial turf as the playing surface. This material is inexpensive and simple to maintain: it can be easily swept clean of twigs or debris.\\nYou can obtain artificial turf at a gardening center or plant nursery. Also contact your local hardware store or even a sporting-goods store to see if they can provide the artificial turf.\\nDepending on the size of your bocce court and the size of turf sections that you can purchase, you may need to buy several sections of turf.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you decide that the task of building a bocce ball court is more than you’re up for, you can call a contractor and ask them to install the court for you.\\n\", \"It’s also possible—and fun—to play bocce without a court. You can play on any field or lawn with manicured grass.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,234 |
How to Build a Bomb Shelter
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1. Steps
1-1. Develop a site plan for the location you plan on building your bomb shelter at.
To be successful on this project (where failure could, one might assume, leave you dead) requires a thorough survey of the site you choose. Here are some explanations why this is critical to success.
Bomb shelters must be able to sustain minimal damage in a near miss or direct hit from exploding ordinance. Soft soil can offer only limited resistance to bomb energy, so building in soft soil requires a deep excavation with highly reinforced construction. In areas with poor drainage or a high water table, the option of building deep will require more engineering than this page will offer.
Building in solid rock, unless you have a suitable cavern to use as a superstructure, will require blasting and drilling, which also will exceed the scope of this page.
Building into the side of a mountain or steep hill is a good choice for people with the resources to do so, and without the depth requirements, the following steps are fairly typical of what needs to be done to successfully complete your bomb shelter project.
Building on stable, flat, well-drained land is the most direct approach to getting the job done, and that will be what we assume the reader plans to do.
1-2. Determine the critical factors to consider in your design.
Basically, there are four things to keep in mind while designing your shelter.
How many people will it house? This will give you information needed to design the shelter in respect to size and accommodation. Since bomb shelters typical are very temporary in nature unless a sustained bombardment is anticipated, you can expect to allow at least 72 square feet of space per person.
Decide what ordinance your structure will need to resist. A typical 500 pound bomb has a blast energy of about 10,000 feet per second using high explosives, and if fused for a ground burst or impact detonation, you will want a minimum of 15 feet of energy absorbing material between the ground and your structural roof. Bunker busters, on the other hand, can penetrate many feet (the exact distance, for obvious reasons, is classified), of reinforced concrete. Since 20 feet is a reasonable limit to excavate and redress, we will assume our design on that depth, other considerations are best left to experts.
1-3. Hire a geotechnical firm to address drainage, soil density, excavation shoring requirements, and other factors to ensure safe digging and building conditions.
With an excavation this deep, shoring, sheet pilings, and other issues will require professional assistance, so the following construction steps are general requirements for minimal performance.
1-4. Hire a structural engineer for detailed construction plans.
If you are knowledgeable about concrete construction methods including load bearing cast in place concrete beams, roofs, and walls, you could do this yourself, however getting an expert is recommended
1-5. Talk with your local planning and zoning office to determine what permits and licenses your project will require.
Most likely, you will need engineered plans and a geotechnical report before a permit will be issued. Now that the technical issues have been addressed, look further down for actual building instructions.
1-6. Mark out your site, erect silt fences, erosion barriers, and other controls needed to begin clearing and excavation.
1-7. Clear sufficient land for your excavation, spoil piles, and haul/storage areas.
For a 12X18 foot shelter, you will want to clear about one acre of land for ancillary use.
1-8. Grade the excavation area to a reasonably flat profile.
Trying to dig a very deep hole on unlevel land is an invitation to disaster.
1-9. Start digging your excavation about 150 feet from your actual shelter's footprint.
This is to allow an access ramp to be created, and will give workment/equipment access in later steps. Continue to build your ramp until you are below the finish floor grade of your shelter.
1-10. Dig the bottom of the shelter pit about 4 feet wider than the outside wall dimensions.
You may use a load for this purpose, but a large excavator, in the 300 to 350 range and with an extended reach boom will give faster and more efficient production.
1-11. Inspect the sides of the excavation often, especially if you enter a different soil layer, to make sure they are stable.
Working in the bottom of a deep pit without cave in protection is illegal and foolish. When unstable soil is encountered, either use shoring systems or sheet piling to protect the workers.
1-12. Dig until you reach the excavation requirements, grade the bottom of your pit, and compact the soil.
You may now want to rough in whatever utilities your shelter will require, such as electrical power, plumbing, and a fresh air supply duct, since these may be installed underneath your shelter foundation.
1-13. Form up the foundation for your bomb shelter.
Since the main structural element of the shelter will be the walls and especially the roof, you will not need an very thick floor, but the exterior walls will require a substantial foundation. This can be placed in a monolithic slab, making the floor itself about 8 inches thick, and the wall foundations about 3 feet thick and 5 feet wide.
1-14. Install the footing and slab reinforcement.
Number 5 rebar on 8 inch centers, the wall footings will need something like 8 number 8 rebar, 4 top and bottom supported by number 4 rebar stirrups on 24 inch centers. You will also want to provide 2 rows of dowels made from number 8 rebar on 12 inch centers spaced 10 inches apart. These will require a minimum of 30 inches embedment and 6 feet of projection. Keep in mind these are general design requirements, if your structural engineer requires more or different configurations, he is the expert.
1-15. Allow an opening on the end of the slab where your ramp enters your pit for a door.
Your bomb shelter should be protected by a blast resistant, reinforced concrete and steel laminated structural door and frame. Consulting a vault door manufacturer like Mosler is probably a good idea.
1-16. Place your concrete foundation and slab.
You will almost certainly require an aerial concrete pump for this part of the project, choose one with sufficient boom and capacity to reach all sides of the slab without getting too near the excavation. These special vehicles can have booms from 30 to 40 meters long, and a pump hose 6 inches in diameter.
1-17. Build or rent forms for your wall concrete placement.
You may use coil rods, snap ties, or other means to secure the forms, along with whalers, stiff backs, and other shoring to keep your walls plumb and uniform in thickness. You will want to go ahead and erect the inside forms to the finished ceiling height of the bomb shelter. Generally, a minimum of 7 foot is required, but 8 foot ceilings are considered standard.
1-18. Install and tie the reinforcing bars for your walls.
The sides will be reinforced with number 8 rebar on twelve inch centers vertically (two rows), and number 6 rebar horizontal at 12 inch maximum centers on each row of vertical bars. Make sure to use corner bar reinforcement at all corners, and lap bars at splices a minimum of 48 bar diameters.
1-19. Build beam pockets if your ceiling/roof span requires structural steel support beams (refer to engineer's recommendations) to allow these beams to be installed prior to building the roof.
1-20. Set the exterior forms, shore and align them, and place the concrete for these.
The tensile strength of the concrete is up to you or a structural engineer, but 4000 psi concrete is recommended. The exterior forms should extend higher than the interior ceiling so they will act as a perimeter form for placing the concrete roof on your bunker. Depending on the blast energy calculation you made earlier, decide on the thickness of the bunker roof. Since it will support the weight of tons of earth as well as resisting the bomb blast, a minimum thickness of 2 feet is suggested.
1-21. Dowel out rebar for the shelter roof from the wall forms.
A minimum to two mats of number 8 rebar at 10 inches on center is needed, for roof spans greater than 16 feet, increase the rebar size, decrease the spacing, and thicken the roof unless steel support beams and columns are used to offset the increase load. You may also consider pouring lateral concrete support beams (and even using high tensile pre-stressed concrete slabs for the roof, if it is in your budget).
1-22. Pour your concrete walls using the same pump you hired for the floor pour.
Make sure the concrete is slumped correctly and that you vibrate it to consolidate the materials while pouring. Using the services of a testing laboratory will help ensure the concrete reaches its required strength.
1-23. Allow the concrete walls to set/cure a minimum of 7 days before removing the forms.
You will want to leave the outside forms in place until the roof has been cast in place.
1-24. Set up shoring for the roof forms.
You may choose to rent metal shoring systems from a form company, but you will need to install a minimum of one 4X4 tee jack at 32 inch cents both ways with the top of the tee 1 inch below the form joist bottoms. Assuming you are using 2X6 pine joists for your form, and the ceiling is 8 feet high, your tee jacks will be 7 feet 5 inches tall. Install diagonal bracing to keep your tee jacks plumb and in line. For the uninitiated, a tee jack is a vertical post built from a 4X4 with a horizontal Tee on top, also usually a 4X4.
1-25. Finish fabricating and installing all of your tee jacks.
After your tee jacks are in place, lay out your joists on 12 to 16 inch centers, then deck the joists with either form panel metal sheeting (preferred) or a minimum 3/4 form ply sheeting.
1-26. Install your rebar reinforcing on top of the platform you have built to act as your ceiling form.
You will have two or three mats of rebar, minimum, so tie your first mat of number 8 rebar on ten inch centers supporting it on rebar chairs sold for this purpose, the support and tie of the second mat using standees to maintain the correct spacing between mats.
1-27. Place the bomb shelter roof with concrete.
As with the walls, higher strength concrete is required, with a minimum yield of 4000 psi, but a preferred design mix of 5000 psi or 850 flexural strength. Allow this concrete placement to cure for a minimum of 7 days before removing the shoring support system. After 28 days, the outside forms can be removed, and backfilling can commence.
1-28. Backfill around the wall perimeter in lifts, using compaction equipment to ensure the soil is compacted in 8 to 12 inch lifts.
If you have installed an air supply duct underneath the slab, you can backfill to the top, otherwise, you will want to install this duct work when you reach the elevation required.
1-29. Backfill the excavation over the roof of the shelter carefully, and avoid using heavy equipment directly over the top of it, especially until the first four or five feet of fill has been installed and compacted.
Do not backfill the access ramp yet, as you will need to construct a tunnel entrance to allow access first.
1-30. Construct an entrance to your bomb shelter.
You will need to create a tunnel at least 50 feet long to reach the door of your bomb shelter. Depending on the size of your door, using a concrete pipe or structural tubing like asphalt coated galvanized steel pipe in 10 or 12 feet diameter is the most practical method. Since tunnel failure can turn your refuge into a tomb in short order, care in choosing and constructing your entrance venue is just as important as designing and building the shelter itself.
1-31. Finish constructing your entrance tunnel and backfilling the excavation.
Restore the vegetation over the top, connect the utilities and air supply ducts, and you are finished.
Tips
Consider any amenities and additional desired design requirements like a toilet, food and water storage, and furnishings in your design.[5]
X
Research source
Designing and building a dome shaped roof creates a stronger shelter roof system, since the dome shape deflects loads towards the perimeter of the structure.
Damp proofing, water proofing, and installing drainage around the foundation should be considered if site conditions suggest water problems.
Warnings
The weight of the materials described in this project are thousands of tons, all due diligence should be exercised when designing, handling, and accommodating them.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Develop a site plan for the location you plan on building your bomb shelter at.\\nTo be successful on this project (where failure could, one might assume, leave you dead) requires a thorough survey of the site you choose. Here are some explanations why this is critical to success.\\nBomb shelters must be able to sustain minimal damage in a near miss or direct hit from exploding ordinance. Soft soil can offer only limited resistance to bomb energy, so building in soft soil requires a deep excavation with highly reinforced construction. In areas with poor drainage or a high water table, the option of building deep will require more engineering than this page will offer.\\nBuilding in solid rock, unless you have a suitable cavern to use as a superstructure, will require blasting and drilling, which also will exceed the scope of this page.\\nBuilding into the side of a mountain or steep hill is a good choice for people with the resources to do so, and without the depth requirements, the following steps are fairly typical of what needs to be done to successfully complete your bomb shelter project.\\nBuilding on stable, flat, well-drained land is the most direct approach to getting the job done, and that will be what we assume the reader plans to do.\\n1-2. Determine the critical factors to consider in your design.\\nBasically, there are four things to keep in mind while designing your shelter.\\nHow many people will it house? This will give you information needed to design the shelter in respect to size and accommodation. Since bomb shelters typical are very temporary in nature unless a sustained bombardment is anticipated, you can expect to allow at least 72 square feet of space per person.\\nDecide what ordinance your structure will need to resist. A typical 500 pound bomb has a blast energy of about 10,000 feet per second using high explosives, and if fused for a ground burst or impact detonation, you will want a minimum of 15 feet of energy absorbing material between the ground and your structural roof. Bunker busters, on the other hand, can penetrate many feet (the exact distance, for obvious reasons, is classified), of reinforced concrete. Since 20 feet is a reasonable limit to excavate and redress, we will assume our design on that depth, other considerations are best left to experts.\\n1-3. Hire a geotechnical firm to address drainage, soil density, excavation shoring requirements, and other factors to ensure safe digging and building conditions.\\nWith an excavation this deep, shoring, sheet pilings, and other issues will require professional assistance, so the following construction steps are general requirements for minimal performance.\\n1-4. Hire a structural engineer for detailed construction plans.\\nIf you are knowledgeable about concrete construction methods including load bearing cast in place concrete beams, roofs, and walls, you could do this yourself, however getting an expert is recommended\\n1-5. Talk with your local planning and zoning office to determine what permits and licenses your project will require.\\nMost likely, you will need engineered plans and a geotechnical report before a permit will be issued. Now that the technical issues have been addressed, look further down for actual building instructions.\\n1-6. Mark out your site, erect silt fences, erosion barriers, and other controls needed to begin clearing and excavation.\\n\\n1-7. Clear sufficient land for your excavation, spoil piles, and haul/storage areas.\\nFor a 12X18 foot shelter, you will want to clear about one acre of land for ancillary use.\\n1-8. Grade the excavation area to a reasonably flat profile.\\nTrying to dig a very deep hole on unlevel land is an invitation to disaster.\\n1-9. Start digging your excavation about 150 feet from your actual shelter's footprint.\\nThis is to allow an access ramp to be created, and will give workment/equipment access in later steps. Continue to build your ramp until you are below the finish floor grade of your shelter.\\n1-10. Dig the bottom of the shelter pit about 4 feet wider than the outside wall dimensions.\\nYou may use a load for this purpose, but a large excavator, in the 300 to 350 range and with an extended reach boom will give faster and more efficient production.\\n1-11. Inspect the sides of the excavation often, especially if you enter a different soil layer, to make sure they are stable.\\nWorking in the bottom of a deep pit without cave in protection is illegal and foolish. When unstable soil is encountered, either use shoring systems or sheet piling to protect the workers.\\n1-12. Dig until you reach the excavation requirements, grade the bottom of your pit, and compact the soil.\\nYou may now want to rough in whatever utilities your shelter will require, such as electrical power, plumbing, and a fresh air supply duct, since these may be installed underneath your shelter foundation.\\n1-13. Form up the foundation for your bomb shelter.\\nSince the main structural element of the shelter will be the walls and especially the roof, you will not need an very thick floor, but the exterior walls will require a substantial foundation. This can be placed in a monolithic slab, making the floor itself about 8 inches thick, and the wall foundations about 3 feet thick and 5 feet wide.\\n1-14. Install the footing and slab reinforcement.\\nNumber 5 rebar on 8 inch centers, the wall footings will need something like 8 number 8 rebar, 4 top and bottom supported by number 4 rebar stirrups on 24 inch centers. You will also want to provide 2 rows of dowels made from number 8 rebar on 12 inch centers spaced 10 inches apart. These will require a minimum of 30 inches embedment and 6 feet of projection. Keep in mind these are general design requirements, if your structural engineer requires more or different configurations, he is the expert.\\n1-15. Allow an opening on the end of the slab where your ramp enters your pit for a door.\\nYour bomb shelter should be protected by a blast resistant, reinforced concrete and steel laminated structural door and frame. Consulting a vault door manufacturer like Mosler is probably a good idea.\\n1-16. Place your concrete foundation and slab.\\nYou will almost certainly require an aerial concrete pump for this part of the project, choose one with sufficient boom and capacity to reach all sides of the slab without getting too near the excavation. These special vehicles can have booms from 30 to 40 meters long, and a pump hose 6 inches in diameter.\\n1-17. Build or rent forms for your wall concrete placement.\\nYou may use coil rods, snap ties, or other means to secure the forms, along with whalers, stiff backs, and other shoring to keep your walls plumb and uniform in thickness. You will want to go ahead and erect the inside forms to the finished ceiling height of the bomb shelter. Generally, a minimum of 7 foot is required, but 8 foot ceilings are considered standard.\\n1-18. Install and tie the reinforcing bars for your walls.\\nThe sides will be reinforced with number 8 rebar on twelve inch centers vertically (two rows), and number 6 rebar horizontal at 12 inch maximum centers on each row of vertical bars. Make sure to use corner bar reinforcement at all corners, and lap bars at splices a minimum of 48 bar diameters.\\n1-19. Build beam pockets if your ceiling/roof span requires structural steel support beams (refer to engineer's recommendations) to allow these beams to be installed prior to building the roof.\\n\\n1-20. Set the exterior forms, shore and align them, and place the concrete for these.\\nThe tensile strength of the concrete is up to you or a structural engineer, but 4000 psi concrete is recommended. The exterior forms should extend higher than the interior ceiling so they will act as a perimeter form for placing the concrete roof on your bunker. Depending on the blast energy calculation you made earlier, decide on the thickness of the bunker roof. Since it will support the weight of tons of earth as well as resisting the bomb blast, a minimum thickness of 2 feet is suggested.\\n1-21. Dowel out rebar for the shelter roof from the wall forms.\\nA minimum to two mats of number 8 rebar at 10 inches on center is needed, for roof spans greater than 16 feet, increase the rebar size, decrease the spacing, and thicken the roof unless steel support beams and columns are used to offset the increase load. You may also consider pouring lateral concrete support beams (and even using high tensile pre-stressed concrete slabs for the roof, if it is in your budget).\\n1-22. Pour your concrete walls using the same pump you hired for the floor pour.\\nMake sure the concrete is slumped correctly and that you vibrate it to consolidate the materials while pouring. Using the services of a testing laboratory will help ensure the concrete reaches its required strength.\\n1-23. Allow the concrete walls to set/cure a minimum of 7 days before removing the forms.\\nYou will want to leave the outside forms in place until the roof has been cast in place.\\n1-24. Set up shoring for the roof forms.\\nYou may choose to rent metal shoring systems from a form company, but you will need to install a minimum of one 4X4 tee jack at 32 inch cents both ways with the top of the tee 1 inch below the form joist bottoms. Assuming you are using 2X6 pine joists for your form, and the ceiling is 8 feet high, your tee jacks will be 7 feet 5 inches tall. Install diagonal bracing to keep your tee jacks plumb and in line. For the uninitiated, a tee jack is a vertical post built from a 4X4 with a horizontal Tee on top, also usually a 4X4.\\n1-25. Finish fabricating and installing all of your tee jacks.\\nAfter your tee jacks are in place, lay out your joists on 12 to 16 inch centers, then deck the joists with either form panel metal sheeting (preferred) or a minimum 3/4 form ply sheeting.\\n1-26. Install your rebar reinforcing on top of the platform you have built to act as your ceiling form.\\nYou will have two or three mats of rebar, minimum, so tie your first mat of number 8 rebar on ten inch centers supporting it on rebar chairs sold for this purpose, the support and tie of the second mat using standees to maintain the correct spacing between mats.\\n1-27. Place the bomb shelter roof with concrete.\\nAs with the walls, higher strength concrete is required, with a minimum yield of 4000 psi, but a preferred design mix of 5000 psi or 850 flexural strength. Allow this concrete placement to cure for a minimum of 7 days before removing the shoring support system. After 28 days, the outside forms can be removed, and backfilling can commence.\\n1-28. Backfill around the wall perimeter in lifts, using compaction equipment to ensure the soil is compacted in 8 to 12 inch lifts.\\nIf you have installed an air supply duct underneath the slab, you can backfill to the top, otherwise, you will want to install this duct work when you reach the elevation required.\\n1-29. Backfill the excavation over the roof of the shelter carefully, and avoid using heavy equipment directly over the top of it, especially until the first four or five feet of fill has been installed and compacted.\\nDo not backfill the access ramp yet, as you will need to construct a tunnel entrance to allow access first.\\n1-30. Construct an entrance to your bomb shelter.\\nYou will need to create a tunnel at least 50 feet long to reach the door of your bomb shelter. Depending on the size of your door, using a concrete pipe or structural tubing like asphalt coated galvanized steel pipe in 10 or 12 feet diameter is the most practical method. Since tunnel failure can turn your refuge into a tomb in short order, care in choosing and constructing your entrance venue is just as important as designing and building the shelter itself.\\n1-31. Finish constructing your entrance tunnel and backfilling the excavation.\\nRestore the vegetation over the top, connect the utilities and air supply ducts, and you are finished.\\nTips\\nConsider any amenities and additional desired design requirements like a toilet, food and water storage, and furnishings in your design.[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nDesigning and building a dome shaped roof creates a stronger shelter roof system, since the dome shape deflects loads towards the perimeter of the structure.\\nDamp proofing, water proofing, and installing drainage around the foundation should be considered if site conditions suggest water problems.\\nWarnings\\nThe weight of the materials described in this project are thousands of tons, all due diligence should be exercised when designing, handling, and accommodating them.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a bomb shelter is different from the construction of storm shelters, fallout shelters, and other structures in that it is built in anticipation of direct exposure to explosive ordinance. This project requires special materials and construction practices, and is not for a novice or hobbyist. Nevertheless, here are steps to help you learn how to accomplish this task.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Develop a site plan for the location you plan on building your bomb shelter at.\", \"描述\": \"To be successful on this project (where failure could, one might assume, leave you dead) requires a thorough survey of the site you choose. Here are some explanations why this is critical to success.\\nBomb shelters must be able to sustain minimal damage in a near miss or direct hit from exploding ordinance. Soft soil can offer only limited resistance to bomb energy, so building in soft soil requires a deep excavation with highly reinforced construction. In areas with poor drainage or a high water table, the option of building deep will require more engineering than this page will offer.\\nBuilding in solid rock, unless you have a suitable cavern to use as a superstructure, will require blasting and drilling, which also will exceed the scope of this page.\\nBuilding into the side of a mountain or steep hill is a good choice for people with the resources to do so, and without the depth requirements, the following steps are fairly typical of what needs to be done to successfully complete your bomb shelter project.\\nBuilding on stable, flat, well-drained land is the most direct approach to getting the job done, and that will be what we assume the reader plans to do.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine the critical factors to consider in your design.\", \"描述\": \"Basically, there are four things to keep in mind while designing your shelter.\\nHow many people will it house? This will give you information needed to design the shelter in respect to size and accommodation. Since bomb shelters typical are very temporary in nature unless a sustained bombardment is anticipated, you can expect to allow at least 72 square feet of space per person.\\nDecide what ordinance your structure will need to resist. A typical 500 pound bomb has a blast energy of about 10,000 feet per second using high explosives, and if fused for a ground burst or impact detonation, you will want a minimum of 15 feet of energy absorbing material between the ground and your structural roof. Bunker busters, on the other hand, can penetrate many feet (the exact distance, for obvious reasons, is classified), of reinforced concrete. Since 20 feet is a reasonable limit to excavate and redress, we will assume our design on that depth, other considerations are best left to experts.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hire a geotechnical firm to address drainage, soil density, excavation shoring requirements, and other factors to ensure safe digging and building conditions.\", \"描述\": \"With an excavation this deep, shoring, sheet pilings, and other issues will require professional assistance, so the following construction steps are general requirements for minimal performance.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Hire a structural engineer for detailed construction plans.\", \"描述\": \"If you are knowledgeable about concrete construction methods including load bearing cast in place concrete beams, roofs, and walls, you could do this yourself, however getting an expert is recommended\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Talk with your local planning and zoning office to determine what permits and licenses your project will require.\", \"描述\": \"Most likely, you will need engineered plans and a geotechnical report before a permit will be issued. Now that the technical issues have been addressed, look further down for actual building instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Mark out your site, erect silt fences, erosion barriers, and other controls needed to begin clearing and excavation.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Clear sufficient land for your excavation, spoil piles, and haul/storage areas.\", \"描述\": \"For a 12X18 foot shelter, you will want to clear about one acre of land for ancillary use.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Grade the excavation area to a reasonably flat profile.\", \"描述\": \"Trying to dig a very deep hole on unlevel land is an invitation to disaster.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Start digging your excavation about 150 feet from your actual shelter's footprint.\", \"描述\": \"This is to allow an access ramp to be created, and will give workment/equipment access in later steps. Continue to build your ramp until you are below the finish floor grade of your shelter.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Dig the bottom of the shelter pit about 4 feet wider than the outside wall dimensions.\", \"描述\": \"You may use a load for this purpose, but a large excavator, in the 300 to 350 range and with an extended reach boom will give faster and more efficient production.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Inspect the sides of the excavation often, especially if you enter a different soil layer, to make sure they are stable.\", \"描述\": \"Working in the bottom of a deep pit without cave in protection is illegal and foolish. When unstable soil is encountered, either use shoring systems or sheet piling to protect the workers.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Dig until you reach the excavation requirements, grade the bottom of your pit, and compact the soil.\", \"描述\": \"You may now want to rough in whatever utilities your shelter will require, such as electrical power, plumbing, and a fresh air supply duct, since these may be installed underneath your shelter foundation.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Form up the foundation for your bomb shelter.\", \"描述\": \"Since the main structural element of the shelter will be the walls and especially the roof, you will not need an very thick floor, but the exterior walls will require a substantial foundation. This can be placed in a monolithic slab, making the floor itself about 8 inches thick, and the wall foundations about 3 feet thick and 5 feet wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Install the footing and slab reinforcement.\", \"描述\": \"Number 5 rebar on 8 inch centers, the wall footings will need something like 8 number 8 rebar, 4 top and bottom supported by number 4 rebar stirrups on 24 inch centers. You will also want to provide 2 rows of dowels made from number 8 rebar on 12 inch centers spaced 10 inches apart. These will require a minimum of 30 inches embedment and 6 feet of projection. Keep in mind these are general design requirements, if your structural engineer requires more or different configurations, he is the expert.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Allow an opening on the end of the slab where your ramp enters your pit for a door.\", \"描述\": \"Your bomb shelter should be protected by a blast resistant, reinforced concrete and steel laminated structural door and frame. Consulting a vault door manufacturer like Mosler is probably a good idea.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Place your concrete foundation and slab.\", \"描述\": \"You will almost certainly require an aerial concrete pump for this part of the project, choose one with sufficient boom and capacity to reach all sides of the slab without getting too near the excavation. These special vehicles can have booms from 30 to 40 meters long, and a pump hose 6 inches in diameter.\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Build or rent forms for your wall concrete placement.\", \"描述\": \"You may use coil rods, snap ties, or other means to secure the forms, along with whalers, stiff backs, and other shoring to keep your walls plumb and uniform in thickness. You will want to go ahead and erect the inside forms to the finished ceiling height of the bomb shelter. Generally, a minimum of 7 foot is required, but 8 foot ceilings are considered standard.\"}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Install and tie the reinforcing bars for your walls.\", \"描述\": \"The sides will be reinforced with number 8 rebar on twelve inch centers vertically (two rows), and number 6 rebar horizontal at 12 inch maximum centers on each row of vertical bars. Make sure to use corner bar reinforcement at all corners, and lap bars at splices a minimum of 48 bar diameters.\"}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"Build beam pockets if your ceiling/roof span requires structural steel support beams (refer to engineer's recommendations) to allow these beams to be installed prior to building the roof.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 20, \"标题\": \"Set the exterior forms, shore and align them, and place the concrete for these.\", \"描述\": \"The tensile strength of the concrete is up to you or a structural engineer, but 4000 psi concrete is recommended. The exterior forms should extend higher than the interior ceiling so they will act as a perimeter form for placing the concrete roof on your bunker. Depending on the blast energy calculation you made earlier, decide on the thickness of the bunker roof. Since it will support the weight of tons of earth as well as resisting the bomb blast, a minimum thickness of 2 feet is suggested.\"}, {\"编号\": 21, \"标题\": \"Dowel out rebar for the shelter roof from the wall forms.\", \"描述\": \"A minimum to two mats of number 8 rebar at 10 inches on center is needed, for roof spans greater than 16 feet, increase the rebar size, decrease the spacing, and thicken the roof unless steel support beams and columns are used to offset the increase load. You may also consider pouring lateral concrete support beams (and even using high tensile pre-stressed concrete slabs for the roof, if it is in your budget).\"}, {\"编号\": 22, \"标题\": \"Pour your concrete walls using the same pump you hired for the floor pour.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the concrete is slumped correctly and that you vibrate it to consolidate the materials while pouring. Using the services of a testing laboratory will help ensure the concrete reaches its required strength.\"}, {\"编号\": 23, \"标题\": \"Allow the concrete walls to set/cure a minimum of 7 days before removing the forms.\", \"描述\": \"You will want to leave the outside forms in place until the roof has been cast in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 24, \"标题\": \"Set up shoring for the roof forms.\", \"描述\": \"You may choose to rent metal shoring systems from a form company, but you will need to install a minimum of one 4X4 tee jack at 32 inch cents both ways with the top of the tee 1 inch below the form joist bottoms. Assuming you are using 2X6 pine joists for your form, and the ceiling is 8 feet high, your tee jacks will be 7 feet 5 inches tall. Install diagonal bracing to keep your tee jacks plumb and in line. For the uninitiated, a tee jack is a vertical post built from a 4X4 with a horizontal Tee on top, also usually a 4X4.\"}, {\"编号\": 25, \"标题\": \"Finish fabricating and installing all of your tee jacks.\", \"描述\": \"After your tee jacks are in place, lay out your joists on 12 to 16 inch centers, then deck the joists with either form panel metal sheeting (preferred) or a minimum 3/4 form ply sheeting.\"}, {\"编号\": 26, \"标题\": \"Install your rebar reinforcing on top of the platform you have built to act as your ceiling form.\", \"描述\": \"You will have two or three mats of rebar, minimum, so tie your first mat of number 8 rebar on ten inch centers supporting it on rebar chairs sold for this purpose, the support and tie of the second mat using standees to maintain the correct spacing between mats.\"}, {\"编号\": 27, \"标题\": \"Place the bomb shelter roof with concrete.\", \"描述\": \"As with the walls, higher strength concrete is required, with a minimum yield of 4000 psi, but a preferred design mix of 5000 psi or 850 flexural strength. Allow this concrete placement to cure for a minimum of 7 days before removing the shoring support system. After 28 days, the outside forms can be removed, and backfilling can commence.\"}, {\"编号\": 28, \"标题\": \"Backfill around the wall perimeter in lifts, using compaction equipment to ensure the soil is compacted in 8 to 12 inch lifts.\", \"描述\": \"If you have installed an air supply duct underneath the slab, you can backfill to the top, otherwise, you will want to install this duct work when you reach the elevation required.\"}, {\"编号\": 29, \"标题\": \"Backfill the excavation over the roof of the shelter carefully, and avoid using heavy equipment directly over the top of it, especially until the first four or five feet of fill has been installed and compacted.\", \"描述\": \"Do not backfill the access ramp yet, as you will need to construct a tunnel entrance to allow access first.\"}, {\"编号\": 30, \"标题\": \"Construct an entrance to your bomb shelter.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to create a tunnel at least 50 feet long to reach the door of your bomb shelter. Depending on the size of your door, using a concrete pipe or structural tubing like asphalt coated galvanized steel pipe in 10 or 12 feet diameter is the most practical method. Since tunnel failure can turn your refuge into a tomb in short order, care in choosing and constructing your entrance venue is just as important as designing and building the shelter itself.\"}, {\"编号\": 31, \"标题\": \"Finish constructing your entrance tunnel and backfilling the excavation.\", \"描述\": \"Restore the vegetation over the top, connect the utilities and air supply ducts, and you are finished.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Consider any amenities and additional desired design requirements like a toilet, food and water storage, and furnishings in your design.[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Designing and building a dome shaped roof creates a stronger shelter roof system, since the dome shape deflects loads towards the perimeter of the structure.\\n\", \"Damp proofing, water proofing, and installing drainage around the foundation should be considered if site conditions suggest water problems.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"The weight of the materials described in this project are thousands of tons, all due diligence should be exercised when designing, handling, and accommodating them.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,235 |
How to Build a Bookshelf
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1. Preparation
1-1. Design and measure.
You can build a bookshelf to fit a particular space in your home or make one that's a standard size so that it can work in a variety of locations.
Measure the space where the bookshelf will sit. Decide how tall you want the finished shelf unit to be and how wide. Bookshelves are traditionally 12" or 16" deep; of course, you can customize to suit your needs.
Decide if your bookshelf will have an open or a closed back. If you keep the back open, your books may lean on or touch the wall behind the bookshelf.
Decide it you'll use it to house paperback, hardback or coffee table-sized books. For maximum versatility, this project uses adjustable shelving so any size book will fit.
Standard bookshelves come in two-, three-, four- and five-shelf varieties, but you can make as many shelves as you want for your project.
1-2. Choose your wood.
The wood you use will greatly impact the finished look of your piece as well as its cost and durability. Since solid wood could cost thousands of dollars, you'll likely want to use plywood with a hardwood veneer. Choose a 3/4" plywood for the body and shelves of the bookshelf, and a 1/4" piece of plywood for the back.
A plywood sheet is 4' wide, but keep in mind that a saw blade takes off 1/8". Calculate how many 8' long boards you can get from one sheet and use that to figure out how many sheets you will need. For this project, you'll need just one sheet.
2. Cutting
2-1. Choose the right saw.
Use a table saw or a circular saw to cut your boards. Cutting plywood can be difficult and dangerous, so it's important to set yourself up for success.
2-2. Cut your sides.
Start by cutting your long boards to the width you want. Remember that standard widths are 12" or 16"; for this project, our depth will be 12". Push the wood through the saw at a consistent rate to ensure a cleaner cut.
Enlist the help of a friend. One of the challenges of working with plywood is that it comes in large 4' x 8' sheets,so it can be a bit difficult to handle on your own. Use saw horses or a roller table to also provide support.
Rip a piece of ¾" birch plywood into a 12½" wide strip. If you're using a circular saw, be sure to use a straight-edge guide.
Cut the strip into two 41¾" pieces to make the two bookcase sides. You can adjust this measurement up or down if you want your bookshelf to be taller or shorter.
2-3. Cut your bookshelf bottom and shelves.
Remember that the width of the saw blade is 1/8" and factor that into your measurements.
Rip a strip of 3/4" plywood 11⅞" wide to make the shelves.
Rip a second strip 12 1/8" to make the top and bottom shelves.
Cut the other two strips into 30½-" pieces to make the top, bottom and two shelves.
2-4. Cut the rabbet joints.
A rabbet is a groove cut into a piece of wood. In this case, creating rabbet joints will allow the top of the bookcase to sit squarely and securely on the two sides.
Set a saw to make a 3/8" cut. Cut a track into the end of the shelf by making cuts straight across the shelf in 1/8" increments until the track is as wide as the thickness of the plywood sides.
Alternately, use a router fitted with a ball-bearing-piloted rabbeting bit to make your cuts.
2-5. Drill the holes for adjustable shelving along the bookshelf sides.
Since book sizes differ and your needs may change, it's best to make your shelves adjustable so that you can arrange and rearrange them as best suits you.
Clamp a pegboard (this will be your template for the holes)in place so that the first holes will be 4" above and 4" below the center shelf.
If you don't have a pegboard, you make a hole-drilling template out of ¾-inch pine cut to the same length as the bookcase sides. Use a drill/driver fitted with a ⅝-inch spade bit to bore a series of equally spaced holes in the template board.
Use a drill bit that's the same diameter as the shelf-support pegs and drill holes 2" from the edge in 2" increments.
Drill approximately 1/8" deeper than the length of the pegs. Put a piece of tape or a drill stop on the bit to guide you in drilling to the correct depth and take into account the thickness of the pegboard.
3. Assembly
3-1. Attach the top to the sides.
Apply glue the length of the rabbet groove and put the top in place. Add pocket screws to secure the top.
3-2. Add support blocks.
If you'd like, you can use support blocks for the center and bottom shelves; they'll strength the frame without adding excessive bulk. If you do add these blocks, be aware that your center shelf will be fixed; you won't be able to adjust it.
Glue 1" x 2" support blocks in place for the center and bottom shelf and secure them with finish nails
Drive the nails until each head is just above the surface of the wood, then use a nail set to drive it just below the surface.
Drill and countersink pilot holes for the top of the bookshelf. Attach it with glue and 2" wood screws.
3-3. Put the center and bottom shelves in place.
Once the top of the bookshelf is secure, attach the bottom shelf.
Apply wood glue to the support blocks for the bottom shelf and set the shelf in position.
Drill and countersink pilot holes in the side of the bookshelf and attach the shelf with 2" wood screws.
If you decided to use support blocks for the center shelf as well, install it now as you did the bottom shelf.
3-4. Attach the back panel.
A back panel gives a bookshelf a finished look and protects the paint on the wall behind the bookshelf.
Make sure the bookshelf is square. Tighten any screws if necessary to get the shelf to stand in place with perfect right angles.
Measure and cut the back panel.
Start in one corner and use 1" brads to fasten the back panel in place.
3-5. Attach the trim.
Trim or molding will give your bookshelf a custom look. If you've measured it to fit a particular nook in your home, the addition of trim can create the look of a built-in unit.
Attach 1" x 2" trim pieces to the side and bottom edges of the bookshelf with sixpenny nails and glue.
You may want to miter the corners of the trim pieces; the finished look is up to you.
Once the trim is in place, use a router with a 1/2" round over bit to smooth sharp edges.
Glue and nail edge molding to the shelves taking care not to split the molding.
If you'd prefer to a sleeker look, use veneer banding instead of molding to cover the plywood edges.
Using an iron set to a low heat, apply iron-on birch veneer edge banding to the front edges of the plywood sides, shelves, top and bottom.
Then press the veneer tightly to the plywood using a J-roller. Cut the veneer to length with a utility knife.
Use a veneer trimmer to slice off the overhanging edges of the veneer and hand-sand the edges with 120-grit sandpaper so that it's flush with the plywood.
4. Finishing Touches
4-1. Sand the bookshelf.
Proper sanding is essential to the final appearance of any finished surface and affects the success of the staining process. Stain will appear dark and blotchy if the surface isn't well-sanded.
For best results, use a 150 grit sandpaper to remove all handling marks and raised grain.
Use a hand block and/or pad sander to cover 100% of the surface with even pressure. Sand the entire surface, don't rely on your eye to sand only the spots that look irregular to you, sand the whole bookshelf.
4-2. Paint or seal the unit.
The final touch is to put a protective coating on your new book shelf--whether that's paint or a clear finish.
You can use any interior paint. A higher quality paint will last longer.
Use a brush to get in the corners first. Then use a roller.
Apply primer and paint. Primer helps the wood absorb the paint more evenly for a more uniform finish. Apply a coat of primer and let it dry. Sand the unit lightly and remove the dust with cheesecloth or a soft, cotton rag, Apply a coat of paint. After the first coat dries, sand again, dust and apply the final coat.
Choose a white primer if your paint color is light; choose gray if your paint color is dark. You can also have your primer tinted to match the color of your paint.
Apply a clear finish. If you've chosen a more exotic wood for your bookshelf, you'll want to use a clear, polyurethane finish to highlight the natural beauty of the grain. Apply the first coat and let it dry before sanding with a fine grit sandpaper. Remove the dust with cheesecloth or a soft, cotton rag and apply a second coat. Again, let it dry before sanding with a fine grit sandpaper. Apply a third and final coat of the finish.
Don’t spend a lot of time applying the finish by going over and over again. Just put on a nice thin even coat. Most small bubbles will come out on their own, or you will fix them when you sand.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparation\\n1-1. Design and measure.\\nYou can build a bookshelf to fit a particular space in your home or make one that's a standard size so that it can work in a variety of locations.\\nMeasure the space where the bookshelf will sit. Decide how tall you want the finished shelf unit to be and how wide. Bookshelves are traditionally 12\\\" or 16\\\" deep; of course, you can customize to suit your needs.\\nDecide if your bookshelf will have an open or a closed back. If you keep the back open, your books may lean on or touch the wall behind the bookshelf.\\nDecide it you'll use it to house paperback, hardback or coffee table-sized books. For maximum versatility, this project uses adjustable shelving so any size book will fit.\\nStandard bookshelves come in two-, three-, four- and five-shelf varieties, but you can make as many shelves as you want for your project.\\n1-2. Choose your wood.\\nThe wood you use will greatly impact the finished look of your piece as well as its cost and durability. Since solid wood could cost thousands of dollars, you'll likely want to use plywood with a hardwood veneer. Choose a 3/4\\\" plywood for the body and shelves of the bookshelf, and a 1/4\\\" piece of plywood for the back.\\nA plywood sheet is 4' wide, but keep in mind that a saw blade takes off 1/8\\\". Calculate how many 8' long boards you can get from one sheet and use that to figure out how many sheets you will need. For this project, you'll need just one sheet.\\n2. Cutting\\n2-1. Choose the right saw.\\nUse a table saw or a circular saw to cut your boards. Cutting plywood can be difficult and dangerous, so it's important to set yourself up for success.\\n2-2. Cut your sides.\\nStart by cutting your long boards to the width you want. Remember that standard widths are 12\\\" or 16\\\"; for this project, our depth will be 12\\\". Push the wood through the saw at a consistent rate to ensure a cleaner cut. \\nEnlist the help of a friend. One of the challenges of working with plywood is that it comes in large 4' x 8' sheets,so it can be a bit difficult to handle on your own. Use saw horses or a roller table to also provide support.\\nRip a piece of ¾\\\" birch plywood into a 12½\\\" wide strip. If you're using a circular saw, be sure to use a straight-edge guide.\\nCut the strip into two 41¾\\\" pieces to make the two bookcase sides. You can adjust this measurement up or down if you want your bookshelf to be taller or shorter.\\n2-3. Cut your bookshelf bottom and shelves.\\nRemember that the width of the saw blade is 1/8\\\" and factor that into your measurements.\\nRip a strip of 3/4\\\" plywood 11⅞\\\" wide to make the shelves.\\nRip a second strip 12 1/8\\\" to make the top and bottom shelves.\\nCut the other two strips into 30½-\\\" pieces to make the top, bottom and two shelves.\\n2-4. Cut the rabbet joints.\\nA rabbet is a groove cut into a piece of wood. In this case, creating rabbet joints will allow the top of the bookcase to sit squarely and securely on the two sides.\\nSet a saw to make a 3/8\\\" cut. Cut a track into the end of the shelf by making cuts straight across the shelf in 1/8\\\" increments until the track is as wide as the thickness of the plywood sides.\\n\\n\\n\\nAlternately, use a router fitted with a ball-bearing-piloted rabbeting bit to make your cuts.\\n2-5. Drill the holes for adjustable shelving along the bookshelf sides.\\nSince book sizes differ and your needs may change, it's best to make your shelves adjustable so that you can arrange and rearrange them as best suits you.\\nClamp a pegboard (this will be your template for the holes)in place so that the first holes will be 4\\\" above and 4\\\" below the center shelf.\\nIf you don't have a pegboard, you make a hole-drilling template out of ¾-inch pine cut to the same length as the bookcase sides. Use a drill/driver fitted with a ⅝-inch spade bit to bore a series of equally spaced holes in the template board. \\n\\nUse a drill bit that's the same diameter as the shelf-support pegs and drill holes 2\\\" from the edge in 2\\\" increments.\\nDrill approximately 1/8\\\" deeper than the length of the pegs. Put a piece of tape or a drill stop on the bit to guide you in drilling to the correct depth and take into account the thickness of the pegboard.\\n3. Assembly\\n3-1. Attach the top to the sides.\\nApply glue the length of the rabbet groove and put the top in place. Add pocket screws to secure the top.\\n3-2. Add support blocks.\\nIf you'd like, you can use support blocks for the center and bottom shelves; they'll strength the frame without adding excessive bulk. If you do add these blocks, be aware that your center shelf will be fixed; you won't be able to adjust it.\\nGlue 1\\\" x 2\\\" support blocks in place for the center and bottom shelf and secure them with finish nails\\n\\n\\nDrive the nails until each head is just above the surface of the wood, then use a nail set to drive it just below the surface.\\nDrill and countersink pilot holes for the top of the bookshelf. Attach it with glue and 2\\\" wood screws.\\n3-3. Put the center and bottom shelves in place.\\nOnce the top of the bookshelf is secure, attach the bottom shelf.\\nApply wood glue to the support blocks for the bottom shelf and set the shelf in position.\\nDrill and countersink pilot holes in the side of the bookshelf and attach the shelf with 2\\\" wood screws.\\nIf you decided to use support blocks for the center shelf as well, install it now as you did the bottom shelf.\\n3-4. Attach the back panel.\\nA back panel gives a bookshelf a finished look and protects the paint on the wall behind the bookshelf.\\nMake sure the bookshelf is square. Tighten any screws if necessary to get the shelf to stand in place with perfect right angles.\\nMeasure and cut the back panel.\\nStart in one corner and use 1\\\" brads to fasten the back panel in place.\\n3-5. Attach the trim.\\nTrim or molding will give your bookshelf a custom look. If you've measured it to fit a particular nook in your home, the addition of trim can create the look of a built-in unit.\\nAttach 1\\\" x 2\\\" trim pieces to the side and bottom edges of the bookshelf with sixpenny nails and glue.\\n\\n\\nYou may want to miter the corners of the trim pieces; the finished look is up to you.\\nOnce the trim is in place, use a router with a 1/2\\\" round over bit to smooth sharp edges.\\n\\n\\n\\nGlue and nail edge molding to the shelves taking care not to split the molding.\\nIf you'd prefer to a sleeker look, use veneer banding instead of molding to cover the plywood edges.\\n\\n\\n\\nUsing an iron set to a low heat, apply iron-on birch veneer edge banding to the front edges of the plywood sides, shelves, top and bottom.\\nThen press the veneer tightly to the plywood using a J-roller. Cut the veneer to length with a utility knife.\\nUse a veneer trimmer to slice off the overhanging edges of the veneer and hand-sand the edges with 120-grit sandpaper so that it's flush with the plywood.\\n4. Finishing Touches\\n4-1. Sand the bookshelf.\\nProper sanding is essential to the final appearance of any finished surface and affects the success of the staining process. Stain will appear dark and blotchy if the surface isn't well-sanded.\\nFor best results, use a 150 grit sandpaper to remove all handling marks and raised grain.\\nUse a hand block and/or pad sander to cover 100% of the surface with even pressure. Sand the entire surface, don't rely on your eye to sand only the spots that look irregular to you, sand the whole bookshelf.\\n4-2. Paint or seal the unit.\\nThe final touch is to put a protective coating on your new book shelf--whether that's paint or a clear finish.\\nYou can use any interior paint. A higher quality paint will last longer.\\nUse a brush to get in the corners first. Then use a roller.\\nApply primer and paint. Primer helps the wood absorb the paint more evenly for a more uniform finish. Apply a coat of primer and let it dry. Sand the unit lightly and remove the dust with cheesecloth or a soft, cotton rag, Apply a coat of paint. After the first coat dries, sand again, dust and apply the final coat.\\n\\n\\nChoose a white primer if your paint color is light; choose gray if your paint color is dark. You can also have your primer tinted to match the color of your paint.\\nApply a clear finish. If you've chosen a more exotic wood for your bookshelf, you'll want to use a clear, polyurethane finish to highlight the natural beauty of the grain. Apply the first coat and let it dry before sanding with a fine grit sandpaper. Remove the dust with cheesecloth or a soft, cotton rag and apply a second coat. Again, let it dry before sanding with a fine grit sandpaper. Apply a third and final coat of the finish.\\n\\n\\nDon’t spend a lot of time applying the finish by going over and over again. Just put on a nice thin even coat. Most small bubbles will come out on their own, or you will fix them when you sand.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If books are overflowing from your desktop, stacked around your living room or stuffed into plastic milk crates, it may be time for a bookshelf. Building your own bookshelf is easy. We give you the steps below for building a small bookshelf, but you can easily adjust the measurements to construct a case that even more successfully meets your storage needs.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Design and measure.\", \"描述\": \"You can build a bookshelf to fit a particular space in your home or make one that's a standard size so that it can work in a variety of locations.\\nMeasure the space where the bookshelf will sit. Decide how tall you want the finished shelf unit to be and how wide. Bookshelves are traditionally 12\\\" or 16\\\" deep; of course, you can customize to suit your needs.\\nDecide if your bookshelf will have an open or a closed back. If you keep the back open, your books may lean on or touch the wall behind the bookshelf.\\nDecide it you'll use it to house paperback, hardback or coffee table-sized books. For maximum versatility, this project uses adjustable shelving so any size book will fit.\\nStandard bookshelves come in two-, three-, four- and five-shelf varieties, but you can make as many shelves as you want for your project.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your wood.\", \"描述\": \"The wood you use will greatly impact the finished look of your piece as well as its cost and durability. Since solid wood could cost thousands of dollars, you'll likely want to use plywood with a hardwood veneer. Choose a 3/4\\\" plywood for the body and shelves of the bookshelf, and a 1/4\\\" piece of plywood for the back.\\nA plywood sheet is 4' wide, but keep in mind that a saw blade takes off 1/8\\\". Calculate how many 8' long boards you can get from one sheet and use that to figure out how many sheets you will need. For this project, you'll need just one sheet.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cutting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the right saw.\", \"描述\": \"Use a table saw or a circular saw to cut your boards. Cutting plywood can be difficult and dangerous, so it's important to set yourself up for success.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your sides.\", \"描述\": \"Start by cutting your long boards to the width you want. Remember that standard widths are 12\\\" or 16\\\"; for this project, our depth will be 12\\\". Push the wood through the saw at a consistent rate to ensure a cleaner cut. \\nEnlist the help of a friend. One of the challenges of working with plywood is that it comes in large 4' x 8' sheets,so it can be a bit difficult to handle on your own. Use saw horses or a roller table to also provide support.\\nRip a piece of ¾\\\" birch plywood into a 12½\\\" wide strip. If you're using a circular saw, be sure to use a straight-edge guide.\\nCut the strip into two 41¾\\\" pieces to make the two bookcase sides. You can adjust this measurement up or down if you want your bookshelf to be taller or shorter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut your bookshelf bottom and shelves.\", \"描述\": \"Remember that the width of the saw blade is 1/8\\\" and factor that into your measurements.\\nRip a strip of 3/4\\\" plywood 11⅞\\\" wide to make the shelves.\\nRip a second strip 12 1/8\\\" to make the top and bottom shelves.\\nCut the other two strips into 30½-\\\" pieces to make the top, bottom and two shelves.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the rabbet joints.\", \"描述\": \"A rabbet is a groove cut into a piece of wood. In this case, creating rabbet joints will allow the top of the bookcase to sit squarely and securely on the two sides.\\nSet a saw to make a 3/8\\\" cut. Cut a track into the end of the shelf by making cuts straight across the shelf in 1/8\\\" increments until the track is as wide as the thickness of the plywood sides.\\n\\n\\n\\nAlternately, use a router fitted with a ball-bearing-piloted rabbeting bit to make your cuts.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill the holes for adjustable shelving along the bookshelf sides.\", \"描述\": \"Since book sizes differ and your needs may change, it's best to make your shelves adjustable so that you can arrange and rearrange them as best suits you.\\nClamp a pegboard (this will be your template for the holes)in place so that the first holes will be 4\\\" above and 4\\\" below the center shelf.\\nIf you don't have a pegboard, you make a hole-drilling template out of ¾-inch pine cut to the same length as the bookcase sides. Use a drill/driver fitted with a ⅝-inch spade bit to bore a series of equally spaced holes in the template board. \\n\\nUse a drill bit that's the same diameter as the shelf-support pegs and drill holes 2\\\" from the edge in 2\\\" increments.\\nDrill approximately 1/8\\\" deeper than the length of the pegs. Put a piece of tape or a drill stop on the bit to guide you in drilling to the correct depth and take into account the thickness of the pegboard.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembly\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach the top to the sides.\", \"描述\": \"Apply glue the length of the rabbet groove and put the top in place. Add pocket screws to secure the top.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add support blocks.\", \"描述\": \"If you'd like, you can use support blocks for the center and bottom shelves; they'll strength the frame without adding excessive bulk. If you do add these blocks, be aware that your center shelf will be fixed; you won't be able to adjust it.\\nGlue 1\\\" x 2\\\" support blocks in place for the center and bottom shelf and secure them with finish nails\\n\\n\\nDrive the nails until each head is just above the surface of the wood, then use a nail set to drive it just below the surface.\\nDrill and countersink pilot holes for the top of the bookshelf. Attach it with glue and 2\\\" wood screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put the center and bottom shelves in place.\", \"描述\": \"Once the top of the bookshelf is secure, attach the bottom shelf.\\nApply wood glue to the support blocks for the bottom shelf and set the shelf in position.\\nDrill and countersink pilot holes in the side of the bookshelf and attach the shelf with 2\\\" wood screws.\\nIf you decided to use support blocks for the center shelf as well, install it now as you did the bottom shelf.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the back panel.\", \"描述\": \"A back panel gives a bookshelf a finished look and protects the paint on the wall behind the bookshelf.\\nMake sure the bookshelf is square. Tighten any screws if necessary to get the shelf to stand in place with perfect right angles.\\nMeasure and cut the back panel.\\nStart in one corner and use 1\\\" brads to fasten the back panel in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the trim.\", \"描述\": \"Trim or molding will give your bookshelf a custom look. If you've measured it to fit a particular nook in your home, the addition of trim can create the look of a built-in unit.\\nAttach 1\\\" x 2\\\" trim pieces to the side and bottom edges of the bookshelf with sixpenny nails and glue.\\n\\n\\nYou may want to miter the corners of the trim pieces; the finished look is up to you.\\nOnce the trim is in place, use a router with a 1/2\\\" round over bit to smooth sharp edges.\\n\\n\\n\\nGlue and nail edge molding to the shelves taking care not to split the molding.\\nIf you'd prefer to a sleeker look, use veneer banding instead of molding to cover the plywood edges.\\n\\n\\n\\nUsing an iron set to a low heat, apply iron-on birch veneer edge banding to the front edges of the plywood sides, shelves, top and bottom.\\nThen press the veneer tightly to the plywood using a J-roller. Cut the veneer to length with a utility knife.\\nUse a veneer trimmer to slice off the overhanging edges of the veneer and hand-sand the edges with 120-grit sandpaper so that it's flush with the plywood.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finishing Touches\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sand the bookshelf.\", \"描述\": \"Proper sanding is essential to the final appearance of any finished surface and affects the success of the staining process. Stain will appear dark and blotchy if the surface isn't well-sanded.\\nFor best results, use a 150 grit sandpaper to remove all handling marks and raised grain.\\nUse a hand block and/or pad sander to cover 100% of the surface with even pressure. Sand the entire surface, don't rely on your eye to sand only the spots that look irregular to you, sand the whole bookshelf.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint or seal the unit.\", \"描述\": \"The final touch is to put a protective coating on your new book shelf--whether that's paint or a clear finish.\\nYou can use any interior paint. A higher quality paint will last longer.\\nUse a brush to get in the corners first. Then use a roller.\\nApply primer and paint. Primer helps the wood absorb the paint more evenly for a more uniform finish. Apply a coat of primer and let it dry. Sand the unit lightly and remove the dust with cheesecloth or a soft, cotton rag, Apply a coat of paint. After the first coat dries, sand again, dust and apply the final coat.\\n\\n\\nChoose a white primer if your paint color is light; choose gray if your paint color is dark. You can also have your primer tinted to match the color of your paint.\\nApply a clear finish. If you've chosen a more exotic wood for your bookshelf, you'll want to use a clear, polyurethane finish to highlight the natural beauty of the grain. Apply the first coat and let it dry before sanding with a fine grit sandpaper. Remove the dust with cheesecloth or a soft, cotton rag and apply a second coat. Again, let it dry before sanding with a fine grit sandpaper. Apply a third and final coat of the finish.\\n\\n\\nDon’t spend a lot of time applying the finish by going over and over again. Just put on a nice thin even coat. Most small bubbles will come out on their own, or you will fix them when you sand.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,236 |
How to Build a Bottle Rocket
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1. Making a One Bottle Rocket with a Launcher
1-1. Roll a piece of paper into a cone or use a plastic cone that is easily available in the market.
This will be the nose cone of the rocket. Feel free to use colored or patterned paper to design the rocket.
Colored construction paper is both durable and nice-looking!
1-2. Wrap the nose cone with duct tape.
This will have it stronger and more water-resistant.
If you want to add a bit of color to your rocket, you can use colored duct tape to wrap the nose cone.
You can also paint the plastic bottle if you’d like to decorate it further. Feel free to also add a design or logo to the plastic bottle (or body of) the rocket.
1-3. Attach the nose cone to the bottom of the bottle.
You can glue it or use duct tape and, if you have it, wire tape.
Try to put it on as straight as you can onto the bottle and make sure it is secure.
1-4. Take thin cardboard and cut out 3-4 triangles.
Since these will be the fins of your rocket, try to cut them at right angles so they can help the rocket stand straight.
Use cardboard, construction paper, or normal paper as material for the fins. Signboards, such as the ones that say “For Rent” or “For Sale” are also very good fin material.
Place the fins on the lower part of the rocket.
Bend “tabs” into the sides of the fins so that they can attach to the rocket body more easily. Then, tape or glue them on.
If you line up the bottoms of the fins with the bottom of the rocket, it should be able to stand on its own.
1-5. Add ballast to give the rocket weight.
Ballast can be any material that provides weight for the rocket and ensures the rocket can coast once it is launched. The mass should be *above* the fins. The farther the better.
Use Play-Doh or clay as ballast as it is soft, malleable, and unlike pebbles or marbles, won’t fall out or scatter when the rocket launches.
Mold about half a cup of Play-Doh or clay into the ridges on the bottom of the bottle to form a rounded end on the outside of the bottle.
Cover it with duct tape to keep it secure.
1-6. Fill up the bottle with water.
Pour 1 liter (0.26 US gal) of water into the bottle.
1-7. Make a very small hole through a cork.
Make sure the hole is the same size as the valve of your bicycle pump valve.
1-8. Stuff the cork into the bottle opening.
You can also wedge it in with pliers for a tighter squeeze.
1-9. Place the needle-like valve of a bicycle pump into the opening of the cork.
Make sure it fits into the cork tightly.
1-10. Turn the rocket right-side up.
Hold it by the neck of the bottle onto the bicycle pump valve, and aim it away from your face.
1-11. Launch the bottle rocket.
Make sure you are in an open, outdoor area. The rocket will shoot up quite fast and high so remove any obstructions and warn anyone around you before you launch it. To launch the rocket:
Hold the rocket by the neck of the bottle and pump air into it. The rocket will go off when the cork can no longer withstand the pressure building up in the bottle.
Let go of the bottle. The water will shoot out everywhere when the bottle rocket takes off, so be prepared to get a bit wet.
Do not approach the rocket once you start pumping, even if it appears that nothing is happening with the launch, as this can lead to injury.
2. Making a Two Bottle Rocket with a Launcher
2-1. Cut off the cap end of one of the bottles.
Use scissors or a box cutter. You want a nice, clean-cut so the bottles can be taped together cleanly and straight.
Cutting off the cap end of the bottle will make the rocket more aerodynamic and durable. A rounded end is also softer so it will do less damage to any objects if the rocket hits something when it lands.
2-2. Keep the other bottle intact.
It will act as the firing chamber that will hold the water and pressurized air. It will also be attached to the launcher or another bottle.
2-3. Add any decorative paint or designs to the bottles.
Feel free to personalize the two bottle rocket with any logos or patterns. Be creative!
2-4. Put ballast into the cut bottle.
You can use Play-Doh, similar to the procedure for the one bottle rocket, or kitty litter. Kitty litter is cheap, heavy, and when wet, will stay in place well.
To put in the kitty litter, tip the cut bottle and pour in about ½ inch of kitty litter. Then, add enough water to wet the kitty litter completely. Add another ¼ inch of kitty litter and soak it again.
Avoid dumping in too much kitty litter as this can create a dry layer of kitty litter than could get loose and scatter when the rocket is launched. Too much kitty litter, or weight, in the rocket, can also cause the rocket to hit hard when it comes down.
Dry the inside walls of the bottle and use duct tape to help hold the kitty litter in place.
2-5. Tape together the two bottles.
Line them up so that the cut bottle is on the bottom of the intact bottle. Press the bottles together, so that the edge of the bottom, cut bottle goes over the intact bottle and tape them together with duct tape.
2-6. Take thin cardboard and cut out 3-4 triangles.
These will be the fins of your rocket, so try to cut them at perfect right angles. This way, they will hold the two bottle rocket straight and make sure it coasts smoothly.
Place the fins on the lower part of the cut bottle.
Bend “tabs” into the sides of the fins so that they can attach to the rocket body more easily. Then, tape or glue them on.
2-7. Make a very small hole in a cork.
Ensure the hole is the same size as the valve of your bicycle pump valve.
2-8. Stuff the cork into the opening of the intact bottle.
You can also wedge it in with pliers for a tighter fit.
2-9. Place the needle-like valve of a bicycle pump into the opening of the cork.
Make sure it fits into the cork tightly.
2-10. Turn the rocket right-side up.
Hold it by the neck of the bottle and place it onto the bicycle pump valve.
2-11. Launch the bottle rocket.
Make sure you are in an open, outdoor area. The rocket will shoot up quite fast and high so remove any obstructions and warn anyone around you before you launch it. To launch the rocket:
Pump air into the bottle. The rocket will go off when the cork can no longer withstand the pressure building up in the bottle. This is usually at around 80 psi.
Release the bottle. The water will shoot out everywhere when the bottle rocket takes off, so be prepared to get a bit wet.
Be cautious once you start pumping and do not approach the rocket, even if it appears that nothing is happening with the launch, as this can lead to injury.
Warnings
Be careful when using sharp objects to cut the bottle or the cardboard, especially if you are under 10 years old.
Keep your watchers (spectators) away from at least 5 meters.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a One Bottle Rocket with a Launcher\\n1-1. Roll a piece of paper into a cone or use a plastic cone that is easily available in the market.\\nThis will be the nose cone of the rocket. Feel free to use colored or patterned paper to design the rocket.\\nColored construction paper is both durable and nice-looking!\\n1-2. Wrap the nose cone with duct tape.\\nThis will have it stronger and more water-resistant.\\nIf you want to add a bit of color to your rocket, you can use colored duct tape to wrap the nose cone.\\nYou can also paint the plastic bottle if you’d like to decorate it further. Feel free to also add a design or logo to the plastic bottle (or body of) the rocket.\\n1-3. Attach the nose cone to the bottom of the bottle.\\nYou can glue it or use duct tape and, if you have it, wire tape.\\nTry to put it on as straight as you can onto the bottle and make sure it is secure.\\n1-4. Take thin cardboard and cut out 3-4 triangles.\\nSince these will be the fins of your rocket, try to cut them at right angles so they can help the rocket stand straight.\\nUse cardboard, construction paper, or normal paper as material for the fins. Signboards, such as the ones that say “For Rent” or “For Sale” are also very good fin material.\\nPlace the fins on the lower part of the rocket.\\nBend “tabs” into the sides of the fins so that they can attach to the rocket body more easily. Then, tape or glue them on.\\nIf you line up the bottoms of the fins with the bottom of the rocket, it should be able to stand on its own.\\n1-5. Add ballast to give the rocket weight.\\nBallast can be any material that provides weight for the rocket and ensures the rocket can coast once it is launched. The mass should be *above* the fins. The farther the better.\\nUse Play-Doh or clay as ballast as it is soft, malleable, and unlike pebbles or marbles, won’t fall out or scatter when the rocket launches.\\nMold about half a cup of Play-Doh or clay into the ridges on the bottom of the bottle to form a rounded end on the outside of the bottle.\\nCover it with duct tape to keep it secure.\\n1-6. Fill up the bottle with water.\\nPour 1 liter (0.26 US gal) of water into the bottle.\\n1-7. Make a very small hole through a cork.\\nMake sure the hole is the same size as the valve of your bicycle pump valve.\\n1-8. Stuff the cork into the bottle opening.\\nYou can also wedge it in with pliers for a tighter squeeze.\\n1-9. Place the needle-like valve of a bicycle pump into the opening of the cork.\\nMake sure it fits into the cork tightly.\\n1-10. Turn the rocket right-side up.\\nHold it by the neck of the bottle onto the bicycle pump valve, and aim it away from your face.\\n1-11. Launch the bottle rocket.\\nMake sure you are in an open, outdoor area. The rocket will shoot up quite fast and high so remove any obstructions and warn anyone around you before you launch it. To launch the rocket:\\nHold the rocket by the neck of the bottle and pump air into it. The rocket will go off when the cork can no longer withstand the pressure building up in the bottle.\\nLet go of the bottle. The water will shoot out everywhere when the bottle rocket takes off, so be prepared to get a bit wet.\\nDo not approach the rocket once you start pumping, even if it appears that nothing is happening with the launch, as this can lead to injury.\\n2. Making a Two Bottle Rocket with a Launcher\\n2-1. Cut off the cap end of one of the bottles.\\nUse scissors or a box cutter. You want a nice, clean-cut so the bottles can be taped together cleanly and straight.\\nCutting off the cap end of the bottle will make the rocket more aerodynamic and durable. A rounded end is also softer so it will do less damage to any objects if the rocket hits something when it lands.\\n2-2. Keep the other bottle intact.\\nIt will act as the firing chamber that will hold the water and pressurized air. It will also be attached to the launcher or another bottle.\\n2-3. Add any decorative paint or designs to the bottles.\\nFeel free to personalize the two bottle rocket with any logos or patterns. Be creative!\\n2-4. Put ballast into the cut bottle.\\nYou can use Play-Doh, similar to the procedure for the one bottle rocket, or kitty litter. Kitty litter is cheap, heavy, and when wet, will stay in place well.\\nTo put in the kitty litter, tip the cut bottle and pour in about ½ inch of kitty litter. Then, add enough water to wet the kitty litter completely. Add another ¼ inch of kitty litter and soak it again.\\nAvoid dumping in too much kitty litter as this can create a dry layer of kitty litter than could get loose and scatter when the rocket is launched. Too much kitty litter, or weight, in the rocket, can also cause the rocket to hit hard when it comes down.\\nDry the inside walls of the bottle and use duct tape to help hold the kitty litter in place.\\n2-5. Tape together the two bottles.\\nLine them up so that the cut bottle is on the bottom of the intact bottle. Press the bottles together, so that the edge of the bottom, cut bottle goes over the intact bottle and tape them together with duct tape.\\n2-6. Take thin cardboard and cut out 3-4 triangles.\\nThese will be the fins of your rocket, so try to cut them at perfect right angles. This way, they will hold the two bottle rocket straight and make sure it coasts smoothly.\\nPlace the fins on the lower part of the cut bottle.\\nBend “tabs” into the sides of the fins so that they can attach to the rocket body more easily. Then, tape or glue them on.\\n2-7. Make a very small hole in a cork.\\nEnsure the hole is the same size as the valve of your bicycle pump valve.\\n2-8. Stuff the cork into the opening of the intact bottle.\\nYou can also wedge it in with pliers for a tighter fit.\\n2-9. Place the needle-like valve of a bicycle pump into the opening of the cork.\\nMake sure it fits into the cork tightly.\\n2-10. Turn the rocket right-side up.\\nHold it by the neck of the bottle and place it onto the bicycle pump valve.\\n2-11. Launch the bottle rocket.\\nMake sure you are in an open, outdoor area. The rocket will shoot up quite fast and high so remove any obstructions and warn anyone around you before you launch it. To launch the rocket:\\nPump air into the bottle. The rocket will go off when the cork can no longer withstand the pressure building up in the bottle. This is usually at around 80 psi.\\nRelease the bottle. The water will shoot out everywhere when the bottle rocket takes off, so be prepared to get a bit wet.\\nBe cautious once you start pumping and do not approach the rocket, even if it appears that nothing is happening with the launch, as this can lead to injury.\\nWarnings\\nBe careful when using sharp objects to cut the bottle or the cardboard, especially if you are under 10 years old.\\nKeep your watchers (spectators) away from at least 5 meters.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Bottle rockets are great projects for you to make, or to give your students to make. Anyone can make bottle rockets because they are quite easy to build.The materials are also pretty easy to find, which makes it a great fit for day off from school or fun in the summer. But, figuring out exactly what to do can be hard, and it can be hard to know where to start. This article will teach you two different ways to make a bottle rocket that is definitely going to be a success.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a One Bottle Rocket with a Launcher\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Roll a piece of paper into a cone or use a plastic cone that is easily available in the market.\", \"描述\": \"This will be the nose cone of the rocket. Feel free to use colored or patterned paper to design the rocket.\\nColored construction paper is both durable and nice-looking!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wrap the nose cone with duct tape.\", \"描述\": \"This will have it stronger and more water-resistant.\\nIf you want to add a bit of color to your rocket, you can use colored duct tape to wrap the nose cone.\\nYou can also paint the plastic bottle if you’d like to decorate it further. Feel free to also add a design or logo to the plastic bottle (or body of) the rocket.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the nose cone to the bottom of the bottle.\", \"描述\": \"You can glue it or use duct tape and, if you have it, wire tape.\\nTry to put it on as straight as you can onto the bottle and make sure it is secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take thin cardboard and cut out 3-4 triangles.\", \"描述\": \"Since these will be the fins of your rocket, try to cut them at right angles so they can help the rocket stand straight.\\nUse cardboard, construction paper, or normal paper as material for the fins. Signboards, such as the ones that say “For Rent” or “For Sale” are also very good fin material.\\nPlace the fins on the lower part of the rocket.\\nBend “tabs” into the sides of the fins so that they can attach to the rocket body more easily. Then, tape or glue them on.\\nIf you line up the bottoms of the fins with the bottom of the rocket, it should be able to stand on its own.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add ballast to give the rocket weight.\", \"描述\": \"Ballast can be any material that provides weight for the rocket and ensures the rocket can coast once it is launched. The mass should be *above* the fins. The farther the better.\\nUse Play-Doh or clay as ballast as it is soft, malleable, and unlike pebbles or marbles, won’t fall out or scatter when the rocket launches.\\nMold about half a cup of Play-Doh or clay into the ridges on the bottom of the bottle to form a rounded end on the outside of the bottle.\\nCover it with duct tape to keep it secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fill up the bottle with water.\", \"描述\": \"Pour 1 liter (0.26 US gal) of water into the bottle.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make a very small hole through a cork.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the hole is the same size as the valve of your bicycle pump valve.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Stuff the cork into the bottle opening.\", \"描述\": \"You can also wedge it in with pliers for a tighter squeeze.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place the needle-like valve of a bicycle pump into the opening of the cork.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure it fits into the cork tightly.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Turn the rocket right-side up.\", \"描述\": \"Hold it by the neck of the bottle onto the bicycle pump valve, and aim it away from your face.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Launch the bottle rocket.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you are in an open, outdoor area. The rocket will shoot up quite fast and high so remove any obstructions and warn anyone around you before you launch it. To launch the rocket:\\nHold the rocket by the neck of the bottle and pump air into it. The rocket will go off when the cork can no longer withstand the pressure building up in the bottle.\\nLet go of the bottle. The water will shoot out everywhere when the bottle rocket takes off, so be prepared to get a bit wet.\\nDo not approach the rocket once you start pumping, even if it appears that nothing is happening with the launch, as this can lead to injury.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Two Bottle Rocket with a Launcher\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut off the cap end of one of the bottles.\", \"描述\": \"Use scissors or a box cutter. You want a nice, clean-cut so the bottles can be taped together cleanly and straight.\\nCutting off the cap end of the bottle will make the rocket more aerodynamic and durable. A rounded end is also softer so it will do less damage to any objects if the rocket hits something when it lands.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep the other bottle intact.\", \"描述\": \"It will act as the firing chamber that will hold the water and pressurized air. It will also be attached to the launcher or another bottle.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add any decorative paint or designs to the bottles.\", \"描述\": \"Feel free to personalize the two bottle rocket with any logos or patterns. Be creative!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put ballast into the cut bottle.\", \"描述\": \"You can use Play-Doh, similar to the procedure for the one bottle rocket, or kitty litter. Kitty litter is cheap, heavy, and when wet, will stay in place well.\\nTo put in the kitty litter, tip the cut bottle and pour in about ½ inch of kitty litter. Then, add enough water to wet the kitty litter completely. Add another ¼ inch of kitty litter and soak it again.\\nAvoid dumping in too much kitty litter as this can create a dry layer of kitty litter than could get loose and scatter when the rocket is launched. Too much kitty litter, or weight, in the rocket, can also cause the rocket to hit hard when it comes down.\\nDry the inside walls of the bottle and use duct tape to help hold the kitty litter in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tape together the two bottles.\", \"描述\": \"Line them up so that the cut bottle is on the bottom of the intact bottle. Press the bottles together, so that the edge of the bottom, cut bottle goes over the intact bottle and tape them together with duct tape.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Take thin cardboard and cut out 3-4 triangles.\", \"描述\": \"These will be the fins of your rocket, so try to cut them at perfect right angles. This way, they will hold the two bottle rocket straight and make sure it coasts smoothly.\\nPlace the fins on the lower part of the cut bottle.\\nBend “tabs” into the sides of the fins so that they can attach to the rocket body more easily. Then, tape or glue them on.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make a very small hole in a cork.\", \"描述\": \"Ensure the hole is the same size as the valve of your bicycle pump valve.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Stuff the cork into the opening of the intact bottle.\", \"描述\": \"You can also wedge it in with pliers for a tighter fit.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place the needle-like valve of a bicycle pump into the opening of the cork.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure it fits into the cork tightly.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Turn the rocket right-side up.\", \"描述\": \"Hold it by the neck of the bottle and place it onto the bicycle pump valve.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Launch the bottle rocket.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you are in an open, outdoor area. The rocket will shoot up quite fast and high so remove any obstructions and warn anyone around you before you launch it. To launch the rocket:\\nPump air into the bottle. The rocket will go off when the cork can no longer withstand the pressure building up in the bottle. This is usually at around 80 psi.\\nRelease the bottle. The water will shoot out everywhere when the bottle rocket takes off, so be prepared to get a bit wet.\\nBe cautious once you start pumping and do not approach the rocket, even if it appears that nothing is happening with the launch, as this can lead to injury.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful when using sharp objects to cut the bottle or the cardboard, especially if you are under 10 years old.\\n\", \"Keep your watchers (spectators) away from at least 5 meters.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,237 |
How to Build a Box
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1. Making a Metal Box
1-1. Obtain sheet metal.
You'll want metal that's thick enough to make for a sturdy box, but thin enough to bend. Duct metal is a good material. You'll want to start with a rectangular piece.
1-2. Measure your cuts and bends.
Layout line on your sheet metal to designate where you will be cutting and bending. You will be bending the four sides up to make the walls, so measure out equal lines parallel to the edges. These lines will mark where the walls are bent.
You will also be bending over the top of each wall to hide the sharp edge. Draw a parallel line a short distance down from each of the edges.
Mark out equal squares on each corner of the rectangle. This square may already be present because of the bending lines that you drew earlier. This square will be cut out to create flaps that become the sides of the box.
1-3. Cut the squares out.
Clamp the sheet metal to the workbench so that it doesn't shake or vibrate during the cutting. Use a jigsaw or other metal saw and work slowly to ensure that you are cutting straight lines.
1-4. Bend the top edges over.
Once all of the squares are cut out, you'll be left with the four flaps. You'll be bending over the edges of these flaps to make smooth edges for the top of the box. Insert the first edge into a bending brake. Make sure that it is lined up with the line you measured earlier. Bend the edge 90°. This will create a lip.
If you don't have a bending brake, lay the sheet on the edge of a table and place a piece of wood on top. Clamp the wood to the table as tight as possible. The piece of wood will act as the brace of the bending brake, allowing you to bend the metal by hand or with a mallet.
1-5. Hammer the lip down.
Continue the folding process by hammering the lip down so that it is flush with the flap. Repeat this process on all four flaps.
1-6. Bend the walls up.
Now that the tops of the walls are finished, it's time to start raising them. Insert one flap into the bending brake, lining up the bending line you measured earlier. Bend the wall up at a 90° angle. Repeat this process for each wall.
1-7. Secure the corners.
At this point, you box should look almost complete. The four walls should all be up, and the top edges all folded over. Now you will need to secure the corners with smaller pieces of metal.
Measure the height of the box. Cut four strips of metal, each long enough to reach from the bottom to the top of the box, and wide enough to be bent in half and secured (usually about an inch or so on each side, so 2-3 inches total width).
Insert each strip lengthwise into the bending brake, with half in and half out. Bend each strip lengthwise at 90°
1-8. Attach the corner securing plates.
Once they've been bent, place a corner securing plate onto the corner of the box, and drill holes through the plate and the box. Place tow holes on each side of the fold, at the top and the bottom. Insert rivets into each of the holes. Use a ball-peen hammer or rivet gun to set the rivets.
Once all the rivets are set, the box is complete.
2. Building a Wood Box
2-1. Measure your wood.
You will need to make sure that all of your wall pieces are the same height. The opposite walls need to be the same length. You will also need a bottom piece that will fit inside of the finished box.
2-2. Prepare the corners.
At the ends of each of the wall piece, cut a 45° angle out from the inside of each edge. These 45° angles will meet and create flush corners with no grain showing.
Use a miter box to create exact angles. This will make for seamless joints. Make sure that when you cut the 45° angle that you do not affect the overall length of the wall pieces.
2-3. Lay out a long piece of packing tape.
Place each wall piece end to end on the tape so that the edges are touching. The pieces are laid out as if the box walls have been “unrolled”.
2-4. Glue the bottom to one of the walls.
Let the glue set and keep pressure applied by using a clamp. Once the glue is set, apply glue to the rest of the exposed edges of the bottom piece.
2-5. Apply glue to the corners.
Apply a strong wood glue to the 45° wall corners. Score the edges with a file before applying glue to improve the strength of the bond.
2-6. Roll up the walls.
With the tape still attached, roll the walls up so that the 45° angles fit into each other. If it was measured correctly, the bottom piece should fit snugly into the wall pieces. Clamp the sides and let the glue set.
2-7. Add a lid.
You can create a simple lid by measuring a piece of wood that extends an out beyond the edge of the box. Glue small pieces of wood around the edge of the new piece to keep the lid from falling off.
2-8. Decorate the box.
You can sand the edges down if you'd like them to be more curved. Paint the box to your liking.
Tips
It makes things easier if you have sketched your box out on paper, listing the dimensions.
Warnings
Avoid cutting your hands on the sheet metal while bending and handling by wearing heavy work gloves.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Metal Box\\n1-1. Obtain sheet metal.\\nYou'll want metal that's thick enough to make for a sturdy box, but thin enough to bend. Duct metal is a good material. You'll want to start with a rectangular piece.\\n1-2. Measure your cuts and bends.\\nLayout line on your sheet metal to designate where you will be cutting and bending. You will be bending the four sides up to make the walls, so measure out equal lines parallel to the edges. These lines will mark where the walls are bent.\\nYou will also be bending over the top of each wall to hide the sharp edge. Draw a parallel line a short distance down from each of the edges.\\nMark out equal squares on each corner of the rectangle. This square may already be present because of the bending lines that you drew earlier. This square will be cut out to create flaps that become the sides of the box.\\n1-3. Cut the squares out.\\nClamp the sheet metal to the workbench so that it doesn't shake or vibrate during the cutting. Use a jigsaw or other metal saw and work slowly to ensure that you are cutting straight lines.\\n1-4. Bend the top edges over.\\nOnce all of the squares are cut out, you'll be left with the four flaps. You'll be bending over the edges of these flaps to make smooth edges for the top of the box. Insert the first edge into a bending brake. Make sure that it is lined up with the line you measured earlier. Bend the edge 90°. This will create a lip.\\nIf you don't have a bending brake, lay the sheet on the edge of a table and place a piece of wood on top. Clamp the wood to the table as tight as possible. The piece of wood will act as the brace of the bending brake, allowing you to bend the metal by hand or with a mallet.\\n1-5. Hammer the lip down.\\nContinue the folding process by hammering the lip down so that it is flush with the flap. Repeat this process on all four flaps.\\n1-6. Bend the walls up.\\nNow that the tops of the walls are finished, it's time to start raising them. Insert one flap into the bending brake, lining up the bending line you measured earlier. Bend the wall up at a 90° angle. Repeat this process for each wall.\\n1-7. Secure the corners.\\nAt this point, you box should look almost complete. The four walls should all be up, and the top edges all folded over. Now you will need to secure the corners with smaller pieces of metal.\\nMeasure the height of the box. Cut four strips of metal, each long enough to reach from the bottom to the top of the box, and wide enough to be bent in half and secured (usually about an inch or so on each side, so 2-3 inches total width).\\nInsert each strip lengthwise into the bending brake, with half in and half out. Bend each strip lengthwise at 90°\\n1-8. Attach the corner securing plates.\\nOnce they've been bent, place a corner securing plate onto the corner of the box, and drill holes through the plate and the box. Place tow holes on each side of the fold, at the top and the bottom. Insert rivets into each of the holes. Use a ball-peen hammer or rivet gun to set the rivets.\\nOnce all the rivets are set, the box is complete.\\n2. Building a Wood Box\\n2-1. Measure your wood.\\nYou will need to make sure that all of your wall pieces are the same height. The opposite walls need to be the same length. You will also need a bottom piece that will fit inside of the finished box.\\n2-2. Prepare the corners.\\nAt the ends of each of the wall piece, cut a 45° angle out from the inside of each edge. These 45° angles will meet and create flush corners with no grain showing.\\nUse a miter box to create exact angles. This will make for seamless joints. Make sure that when you cut the 45° angle that you do not affect the overall length of the wall pieces.\\n2-3. Lay out a long piece of packing tape.\\nPlace each wall piece end to end on the tape so that the edges are touching. The pieces are laid out as if the box walls have been “unrolled”.\\n2-4. Glue the bottom to one of the walls.\\nLet the glue set and keep pressure applied by using a clamp. Once the glue is set, apply glue to the rest of the exposed edges of the bottom piece.\\n2-5. Apply glue to the corners.\\nApply a strong wood glue to the 45° wall corners. Score the edges with a file before applying glue to improve the strength of the bond.\\n2-6. Roll up the walls.\\nWith the tape still attached, roll the walls up so that the 45° angles fit into each other. If it was measured correctly, the bottom piece should fit snugly into the wall pieces. Clamp the sides and let the glue set.\\n2-7. Add a lid.\\nYou can create a simple lid by measuring a piece of wood that extends an out beyond the edge of the box. Glue small pieces of wood around the edge of the new piece to keep the lid from falling off.\\n2-8. Decorate the box.\\nYou can sand the edges down if you'd like them to be more curved. Paint the box to your liking.\\nTips\\nIt makes things easier if you have sketched your box out on paper, listing the dimensions.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid cutting your hands on the sheet metal while bending and handling by wearing heavy work gloves.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Boxes come in all shapes, sizes and material. Building a box is a great way to get into the basics of wood- or metalworking. These projects are simple to complete and can familiarize you with the machinery and tools associated with the craft. Follow this guide to make simple boxes that have a huge number of uses.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Metal Box\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain sheet metal.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want metal that's thick enough to make for a sturdy box, but thin enough to bend. Duct metal is a good material. You'll want to start with a rectangular piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure your cuts and bends.\", \"描述\": \"Layout line on your sheet metal to designate where you will be cutting and bending. You will be bending the four sides up to make the walls, so measure out equal lines parallel to the edges. These lines will mark where the walls are bent.\\nYou will also be bending over the top of each wall to hide the sharp edge. Draw a parallel line a short distance down from each of the edges.\\nMark out equal squares on each corner of the rectangle. This square may already be present because of the bending lines that you drew earlier. This square will be cut out to create flaps that become the sides of the box.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the squares out.\", \"描述\": \"Clamp the sheet metal to the workbench so that it doesn't shake or vibrate during the cutting. Use a jigsaw or other metal saw and work slowly to ensure that you are cutting straight lines.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Bend the top edges over.\", \"描述\": \"Once all of the squares are cut out, you'll be left with the four flaps. You'll be bending over the edges of these flaps to make smooth edges for the top of the box. Insert the first edge into a bending brake. Make sure that it is lined up with the line you measured earlier. Bend the edge 90°. This will create a lip.\\nIf you don't have a bending brake, lay the sheet on the edge of a table and place a piece of wood on top. Clamp the wood to the table as tight as possible. The piece of wood will act as the brace of the bending brake, allowing you to bend the metal by hand or with a mallet.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Hammer the lip down.\", \"描述\": \"Continue the folding process by hammering the lip down so that it is flush with the flap. Repeat this process on all four flaps.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Bend the walls up.\", \"描述\": \"Now that the tops of the walls are finished, it's time to start raising them. Insert one flap into the bending brake, lining up the bending line you measured earlier. Bend the wall up at a 90° angle. Repeat this process for each wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Secure the corners.\", \"描述\": \"At this point, you box should look almost complete. The four walls should all be up, and the top edges all folded over. Now you will need to secure the corners with smaller pieces of metal.\\nMeasure the height of the box. Cut four strips of metal, each long enough to reach from the bottom to the top of the box, and wide enough to be bent in half and secured (usually about an inch or so on each side, so 2-3 inches total width).\\nInsert each strip lengthwise into the bending brake, with half in and half out. Bend each strip lengthwise at 90°\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach the corner securing plates.\", \"描述\": \"Once they've been bent, place a corner securing plate onto the corner of the box, and drill holes through the plate and the box. Place tow holes on each side of the fold, at the top and the bottom. Insert rivets into each of the holes. Use a ball-peen hammer or rivet gun to set the rivets.\\nOnce all the rivets are set, the box is complete.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Wood Box\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your wood.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to make sure that all of your wall pieces are the same height. The opposite walls need to be the same length. You will also need a bottom piece that will fit inside of the finished box.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare the corners.\", \"描述\": \"At the ends of each of the wall piece, cut a 45° angle out from the inside of each edge. These 45° angles will meet and create flush corners with no grain showing.\\nUse a miter box to create exact angles. This will make for seamless joints. Make sure that when you cut the 45° angle that you do not affect the overall length of the wall pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay out a long piece of packing tape.\", \"描述\": \"Place each wall piece end to end on the tape so that the edges are touching. The pieces are laid out as if the box walls have been “unrolled”.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue the bottom to one of the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Let the glue set and keep pressure applied by using a clamp. Once the glue is set, apply glue to the rest of the exposed edges of the bottom piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Apply glue to the corners.\", \"描述\": \"Apply a strong wood glue to the 45° wall corners. Score the edges with a file before applying glue to improve the strength of the bond.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Roll up the walls.\", \"描述\": \"With the tape still attached, roll the walls up so that the 45° angles fit into each other. If it was measured correctly, the bottom piece should fit snugly into the wall pieces. Clamp the sides and let the glue set.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add a lid.\", \"描述\": \"You can create a simple lid by measuring a piece of wood that extends an out beyond the edge of the box. Glue small pieces of wood around the edge of the new piece to keep the lid from falling off.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Decorate the box.\", \"描述\": \"You can sand the edges down if you'd like them to be more curved. Paint the box to your liking.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"It makes things easier if you have sketched your box out on paper, listing the dimensions.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid cutting your hands on the sheet metal while bending and handling by wearing heavy work gloves.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,238 |
How to Build a Box Trap
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1. Steps
1-1. Acquire the tools and materials necessary to make the box.
The items are: a hammer, small box of 8 penny (1 and ½ inch galvanized) nails, one 10 foot long pine (1 inch x 8 inch) wood plank, circular saw, jig saw, safety goggles, tape measure, pencil, speed or “T” square, drill, 1 inch paddle bit, wire (old phone cord would work), a wooden dowel (approximately broom handle width) 3 feet in length (long enough for a 18 inch and 11 inch sections), bait can, and some form of bait.
1-2. Cut the materials to size.
Using the circular saw, cut the 1 x 8 pine plank into: three lengths of 2 feet (bottom and side boards), 1 length of 22 inches (top board), one length of 9 inches (back board), one length of 10 inches (door board), four lengths of 1 inch (rail boards), and one length of 2 inches (fulcrum board).
1-3. Then cut the wooden dowel into one length of 11 inches (trigger) and one length of 18 inches (lever).
1-4. Lastly, cut two 8 inch lengths of the wire.
1-5. Attach the rails to create a channel for the door.
Using two of the three two foot lengths, attach the rails (four 1 inch length) to the front of the side pieces. This is done by first nailing the 1 inch length flush with the end of the side board but raised ¾ inches above the top, use at least two nails per rail. The second rail is spaced 1 inch from the initial rail and runs parallel to it. Using a speed-square will assist with correct spacing. Unlike the initial rail this second one will be flush with the top and bottom of the side board. The channel formed by the rails must have consistent one inch spacing to ensure the door slides properly. This should be repeated on the other side board.
1-6. Nail the side boards to the bottom board.
Lay the bottom board on its side so that the underneath portion of the board is facing the assembler. Lay the right side board, with rails facing up, parallel to the top/inside of the bottom board. The ends of the bottom and side board should be flush with one another. Nail the two boards together, making sure to drive no less than four nails through the bottom board into the right side board. Now, the left side board can be attached to the bottom. This is done by rotating the partial assembly 180 degrees. With the underneath portion of the bottom board still facing the assembler, lay the left side board, with the rails facing up, parallel to the bottom board. Make sure the rails of both sides are facing one another at the front of the trap and that the side and bottom form a 90 degree angle. Note that the ends of the side of the end of the side and bottom boards should be flush.
1-7. Attach the back board.
Place the back end of the trap toward the assembler. Position the 9 inch length so that it is flush with the bottom and side boards, but uneven with the top leaving it ¾ inches above the top of the side boards. This will allow the top board to be flush with the back board once it is attached. Drive the nails through the back board into the edge of the side and bottom boards, using no less than two nails for each of the three boards.
1-8. Prepare the top board.
Place the 22 inch length top so that a hole, using the one inch paddle bit, can be drilled 4 ½ inches from the rear and three and ¾ inches from the side of the board. After drilling the hole, make sure the edges of the hole are smooth. A “V” shape notch is removed (cut) from the end of the fulcrum board by the jig saw. Then nail the non-notched end of the fulcrum board 10 ½ inches from the front of the top board; making sure that it is equal distance from each side and that the “V” notch is visible from the front and back of the top board.
1-9. Attach the top board to the assembly.
Place the top board on the assembly, making sure it is butted up against the back board and flush to the sides prior to attaching it. The hole in the top board will be closer to the back of the trap and the fulcrum is extended up. Then nail through the top board into the edges side boards, four nails for each of the sides. Two nails will then be driven through the back board into the edge of the top board.
1-10. Prepare and place the door.
Using the 1 inch paddle bit, drill a partial hole 1 ½ inch from the top of the door (ten inch length), making sure the center is equal distance from each of the sides. The depth of the partial hole should be approximately ½ inch and should not completely penetrate the board. With the partially drilled hole facing inward slide the door into the rail channels, making sure the door smoothly slides up and down.
1-11. Prepare the trigger dowel.
Drill a hole, 1inch from the end of the trigger dowel, using an 1/8 inch bit; making sure the hole is equal distance from each side. Place one of the two wires through the hole and knot is on one end. A notch that goes halfway through the trigger dowel is cut 5 inches from the bait end and continues 2 inches toward the lever end. Make sure that the notch can catch onto the underside of the top board, but will easily be tripped.
1-12. Prepare the lever dowel.
Drill a hole, using an 1/8 inch bit, 1 inch from the end of the lever dowel. Place the wire, previously run through the trigger dowel, through the lever dowel hole and knot the wire so the trigger and lever are closely connected; making sure the ends of the two dowels do not bind.
1-13. Set the trap.
A can containing bait is placed in the trap, directly beneath the trigger dowel hole. The trigger dowel is slid through the hole in the top of trap with the notch facing the front of the trap. The lever dowel is placed on the fulcrum notch and the end of the dowel is inserted into the door notch while the door is in the open position. At the same time, the notch of the trigger dowel must catch the underside of the top of trap. The trap is now ready to be used.
Tips
Place completed trap in area were varmint will frequent.
Jig saw is best for notching fulcrum board and trigger dowel.
Sanding the rail channel and door will ensure no-stick closure.
Warnings
Ensure rails are wide enough apart for door to slide easily.
Safety goggles should be worn during cutting and nailing.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Acquire the tools and materials necessary to make the box.\\nThe items are: a hammer, small box of 8 penny (1 and ½ inch galvanized) nails, one 10 foot long pine (1 inch x 8 inch) wood plank, circular saw, jig saw, safety goggles, tape measure, pencil, speed or “T” square, drill, 1 inch paddle bit, wire (old phone cord would work), a wooden dowel (approximately broom handle width) 3 feet in length (long enough for a 18 inch and 11 inch sections), bait can, and some form of bait.\\n1-2. Cut the materials to size.\\nUsing the circular saw, cut the 1 x 8 pine plank into: three lengths of 2 feet (bottom and side boards), 1 length of 22 inches (top board), one length of 9 inches (back board), one length of 10 inches (door board), four lengths of 1 inch (rail boards), and one length of 2 inches (fulcrum board).\\n1-3. Then cut the wooden dowel into one length of 11 inches (trigger) and one length of 18 inches (lever).\\n\\n1-4. Lastly, cut two 8 inch lengths of the wire.\\n\\n1-5. Attach the rails to create a channel for the door.\\nUsing two of the three two foot lengths, attach the rails (four 1 inch length) to the front of the side pieces. This is done by first nailing the 1 inch length flush with the end of the side board but raised ¾ inches above the top, use at least two nails per rail. The second rail is spaced 1 inch from the initial rail and runs parallel to it. Using a speed-square will assist with correct spacing. Unlike the initial rail this second one will be flush with the top and bottom of the side board. The channel formed by the rails must have consistent one inch spacing to ensure the door slides properly. This should be repeated on the other side board.\\n1-6. Nail the side boards to the bottom board.\\nLay the bottom board on its side so that the underneath portion of the board is facing the assembler. Lay the right side board, with rails facing up, parallel to the top/inside of the bottom board. The ends of the bottom and side board should be flush with one another. Nail the two boards together, making sure to drive no less than four nails through the bottom board into the right side board. Now, the left side board can be attached to the bottom. This is done by rotating the partial assembly 180 degrees. With the underneath portion of the bottom board still facing the assembler, lay the left side board, with the rails facing up, parallel to the bottom board. Make sure the rails of both sides are facing one another at the front of the trap and that the side and bottom form a 90 degree angle. Note that the ends of the side of the end of the side and bottom boards should be flush.\\n1-7. Attach the back board.\\nPlace the back end of the trap toward the assembler. Position the 9 inch length so that it is flush with the bottom and side boards, but uneven with the top leaving it ¾ inches above the top of the side boards. This will allow the top board to be flush with the back board once it is attached. Drive the nails through the back board into the edge of the side and bottom boards, using no less than two nails for each of the three boards.\\n1-8. Prepare the top board.\\nPlace the 22 inch length top so that a hole, using the one inch paddle bit, can be drilled 4 ½ inches from the rear and three and ¾ inches from the side of the board. After drilling the hole, make sure the edges of the hole are smooth. A “V” shape notch is removed (cut) from the end of the fulcrum board by the jig saw. Then nail the non-notched end of the fulcrum board 10 ½ inches from the front of the top board; making sure that it is equal distance from each side and that the “V” notch is visible from the front and back of the top board.\\n1-9. Attach the top board to the assembly.\\nPlace the top board on the assembly, making sure it is butted up against the back board and flush to the sides prior to attaching it. The hole in the top board will be closer to the back of the trap and the fulcrum is extended up. Then nail through the top board into the edges side boards, four nails for each of the sides. Two nails will then be driven through the back board into the edge of the top board.\\n1-10. Prepare and place the door.\\nUsing the 1 inch paddle bit, drill a partial hole 1 ½ inch from the top of the door (ten inch length), making sure the center is equal distance from each of the sides. The depth of the partial hole should be approximately ½ inch and should not completely penetrate the board. With the partially drilled hole facing inward slide the door into the rail channels, making sure the door smoothly slides up and down.\\n1-11. Prepare the trigger dowel.\\nDrill a hole, 1inch from the end of the trigger dowel, using an 1/8 inch bit; making sure the hole is equal distance from each side. Place one of the two wires through the hole and knot is on one end. A notch that goes halfway through the trigger dowel is cut 5 inches from the bait end and continues 2 inches toward the lever end. Make sure that the notch can catch onto the underside of the top board, but will easily be tripped.\\n1-12. Prepare the lever dowel.\\nDrill a hole, using an 1/8 inch bit, 1 inch from the end of the lever dowel. Place the wire, previously run through the trigger dowel, through the lever dowel hole and knot the wire so the trigger and lever are closely connected; making sure the ends of the two dowels do not bind.\\n1-13. Set the trap.\\nA can containing bait is placed in the trap, directly beneath the trigger dowel hole. The trigger dowel is slid through the hole in the top of trap with the notch facing the front of the trap. The lever dowel is placed on the fulcrum notch and the end of the dowel is inserted into the door notch while the door is in the open position. At the same time, the notch of the trigger dowel must catch the underside of the top of trap. The trap is now ready to be used.\\nTips\\nPlace completed trap in area were varmint will frequent.\\nJig saw is best for notching fulcrum board and trigger dowel.\\nSanding the rail channel and door will ensure no-stick closure.\\nWarnings\\nEnsure rails are wide enough apart for door to slide easily.\\nSafety goggles should be worn during cutting and nailing.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pests are a big problem. They are a nuisance and often damage the house, yard, or other structures. Unfortunately, hiring professionals to get rid of them can be costly. One can save themselves the expense of repairs and professional pest removal by making a box trap. Although building a box trap takes some effort and money, it is well worth it to get rid of unwanted critters.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Acquire the tools and materials necessary to make the box.\", \"描述\": \"The items are: a hammer, small box of 8 penny (1 and ½ inch galvanized) nails, one 10 foot long pine (1 inch x 8 inch) wood plank, circular saw, jig saw, safety goggles, tape measure, pencil, speed or “T” square, drill, 1 inch paddle bit, wire (old phone cord would work), a wooden dowel (approximately broom handle width) 3 feet in length (long enough for a 18 inch and 11 inch sections), bait can, and some form of bait.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the materials to size.\", \"描述\": \"Using the circular saw, cut the 1 x 8 pine plank into: three lengths of 2 feet (bottom and side boards), 1 length of 22 inches (top board), one length of 9 inches (back board), one length of 10 inches (door board), four lengths of 1 inch (rail boards), and one length of 2 inches (fulcrum board).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Then cut the wooden dowel into one length of 11 inches (trigger) and one length of 18 inches (lever).\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lastly, cut two 8 inch lengths of the wire.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the rails to create a channel for the door.\", \"描述\": \"Using two of the three two foot lengths, attach the rails (four 1 inch length) to the front of the side pieces. This is done by first nailing the 1 inch length flush with the end of the side board but raised ¾ inches above the top, use at least two nails per rail. The second rail is spaced 1 inch from the initial rail and runs parallel to it. Using a speed-square will assist with correct spacing. Unlike the initial rail this second one will be flush with the top and bottom of the side board. The channel formed by the rails must have consistent one inch spacing to ensure the door slides properly. This should be repeated on the other side board.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Nail the side boards to the bottom board.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the bottom board on its side so that the underneath portion of the board is facing the assembler. Lay the right side board, with rails facing up, parallel to the top/inside of the bottom board. The ends of the bottom and side board should be flush with one another. Nail the two boards together, making sure to drive no less than four nails through the bottom board into the right side board. Now, the left side board can be attached to the bottom. This is done by rotating the partial assembly 180 degrees. With the underneath portion of the bottom board still facing the assembler, lay the left side board, with the rails facing up, parallel to the bottom board. Make sure the rails of both sides are facing one another at the front of the trap and that the side and bottom form a 90 degree angle. Note that the ends of the side of the end of the side and bottom boards should be flush.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the back board.\", \"描述\": \"Place the back end of the trap toward the assembler. Position the 9 inch length so that it is flush with the bottom and side boards, but uneven with the top leaving it ¾ inches above the top of the side boards. This will allow the top board to be flush with the back board once it is attached. Drive the nails through the back board into the edge of the side and bottom boards, using no less than two nails for each of the three boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Prepare the top board.\", \"描述\": \"Place the 22 inch length top so that a hole, using the one inch paddle bit, can be drilled 4 ½ inches from the rear and three and ¾ inches from the side of the board. After drilling the hole, make sure the edges of the hole are smooth. A “V” shape notch is removed (cut) from the end of the fulcrum board by the jig saw. Then nail the non-notched end of the fulcrum board 10 ½ inches from the front of the top board; making sure that it is equal distance from each side and that the “V” notch is visible from the front and back of the top board.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Attach the top board to the assembly.\", \"描述\": \"Place the top board on the assembly, making sure it is butted up against the back board and flush to the sides prior to attaching it. The hole in the top board will be closer to the back of the trap and the fulcrum is extended up. Then nail through the top board into the edges side boards, four nails for each of the sides. Two nails will then be driven through the back board into the edge of the top board.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Prepare and place the door.\", \"描述\": \"Using the 1 inch paddle bit, drill a partial hole 1 ½ inch from the top of the door (ten inch length), making sure the center is equal distance from each of the sides. The depth of the partial hole should be approximately ½ inch and should not completely penetrate the board. With the partially drilled hole facing inward slide the door into the rail channels, making sure the door smoothly slides up and down.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Prepare the trigger dowel.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a hole, 1inch from the end of the trigger dowel, using an 1/8 inch bit; making sure the hole is equal distance from each side. Place one of the two wires through the hole and knot is on one end. A notch that goes halfway through the trigger dowel is cut 5 inches from the bait end and continues 2 inches toward the lever end. Make sure that the notch can catch onto the underside of the top board, but will easily be tripped.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Prepare the lever dowel.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a hole, using an 1/8 inch bit, 1 inch from the end of the lever dowel. Place the wire, previously run through the trigger dowel, through the lever dowel hole and knot the wire so the trigger and lever are closely connected; making sure the ends of the two dowels do not bind.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Set the trap.\", \"描述\": \"A can containing bait is placed in the trap, directly beneath the trigger dowel hole. The trigger dowel is slid through the hole in the top of trap with the notch facing the front of the trap. The lever dowel is placed on the fulcrum notch and the end of the dowel is inserted into the door notch while the door is in the open position. At the same time, the notch of the trigger dowel must catch the underside of the top of trap. The trap is now ready to be used.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Place completed trap in area were varmint will frequent.\\n\", \"Jig saw is best for notching fulcrum board and trigger dowel.\\n\", \"Sanding the rail channel and door will ensure no-stick closure.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Ensure rails are wide enough apart for door to slide easily.\\n\", \"Safety goggles should be worn during cutting and nailing.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,239 |
How to Build a Brand
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1. Creating an Authentic Look and Message
1-1. Pinpoint your mission
What are qualities, values, and experiences are you going to offer your customers? To make your brand seem authentic and efficient, you need to project a truthful image of what your brand strives to provide. Before you can do that, it’s important to articulate your company’s mission so that you’re clear on what sets you apart from other competitors. Think about the following questions:
Why did you start this business?
What are the goals you want to achieve?
Who are the people you want to provide a solution to?
What makes your company unique among others?
1-2. You have to decide how you want to be seen.
In each step of your business, create a positive impression for customers to think of your brand almost like a living and breathing person they can trust. Emotionally, they need to feel that your brand is the one they should turn to when they are in need. Taking your mission into account, decide what type of attitude you want to project. What spin are you going to put on your mission?
Maybe you want your product to be seen as the ticket to an adventure or a brand new life or a second chance at youth. This approach is often taken by upscale food companies that sell products like goji berry juice or sprouted grain granola bars.
Maybe you want to present your brand as smart and cutting edge. Being seen with your product will make customers feel cool like they’re in a special club. Brands like Urban Outfitters and Apple take this approach.
Another approach would be offering your customers a reliable, completely trustworthy option that will never let them down. This is a good approach if you’re selling a product that should never malfunction, like tires, or if you’re building a brand for your law practice.
You could also rely on nostalgia to build your brand. People feel connected to things that remind them of childhood and carefree times.
1-3. Think from the customer's perspective.
When you buy a product, why do you buy it? What makes you choose a particular brand? See if you can use your answer to help you figure out how your own brand will come across. Find out what your customers are longing to feel and make your brand help them feel that way. Do they want to feel powerful? Responsible? Conscientious? Smart? Unique? Your brand needs to evoke this feeling with all of its copy, marketing, and design. Cue these feelings not only with language but with colors and product design as well.
Basically, you want to think about who you're trying to reach. Who is your market? What do they tend to enjoy hearing or seeing in other brands that they like?
According to brand name psychology, when customers hear your brand name for the first time, they receive a set of images, feelings, or even a storyline that triggers them emotionally to engage with your brand. According to research and studies, most of the decisions made by customers are based on these emotions rather than being rational.
1-4. Refine your brand language.
Choose a perfect brand name, a catchphrase or slogan and some keywords that you want to be associated with your branding strategies. The words should be closely aligned with your mission statement, make sense for customers, and be memorable enough to recall whenever needed. Use your brand language not only in the copy of your products and advertising but also when you discuss your business and make contacts in person.
Keep your text as streamlined and basic as you can because it is more memorable that way. A good example of this was the tagline Apple was using for much of the '90s and into the 2000s: "Think Different". This worked on multiple levels, because it painted the brand as smart and unique, and the concept was easily slipped into discussions and other branding platforms. Two words: ingeniously effective branding.
All copy associated with your brand, including what appears on your product’s label, on your website, and in advertising materials, should match the tone you’re trying to project. For example, your company is meant to be seen as trustworthy and comfortably old-fashioned, use slightly formal language that will make your customers feel that the people who run your business are as dependable as their third-grade teacher.
1-5. Choose a design scheme.
Your brand needs a look that’s in keeping with the tone of your brand mission and language. Are you modern and sleek? Fun and colorful? Traditional and classic? This look should be synchronized across all of your media (brochures, website, product, offices, etc.).
Design a great logo. Rather than representing your brand, your logo is useful to help embed your brand in your customer's right side of the brain. For example, when someone sees a checkmark, they remember Nike, even if there is no other clue that represents Nike. Your logo must be well designed by a professional and you should use it frequently and place it prominently.
Choose the colors that will represent your brand wisely. These colors will be used as often as possible on promotional materials to help evoke your brand. Examples include McDonald's gold and red, Google's red, yellow, green, and blue, or wikiHow's green and white.
Remember to keep both your brand name and logo simple. You want your brand to be easily recognized and unforgettable. The best way to do that is to be unique and simple.
You might want to get legal protection for your visual branding and any distinctive phrases you use to describe your business or your offer.
1-6. Involve your employees.
Communicate the importance of your brand to your employees and explain why and how you arrived at the brand identity you are promoting. You will need their support for your new branding to be effective.
Remember that everything your business does is linked to your brand in the eyes of the customer. Even the way your employees dress and behave.
Your employees may have their own image of your business. They'll have ideas about what your business stands for, and whether it is delivering on its promises. Employees can provide invaluable insights along the way. Ask your employees how they believe your product or service is being received on the market and don’t discount their opinions.
2. Gaining Customer Loyalty
2-1. Back up your message with a great product or service.
If your messaging sounds good but you don’t deliver on your promises, your customers will go elsewhere, and your brand won’t catch on. If your brand delivers exactly what it promises, you’ll easily gain your customers’ trust. Before long, they’ll start spreading the word about your quality of service, and your brand’s reputation will soon speak for itself.
Make sure that your customers’ association with your brand lines up with what you’re offering, too. For example, if you promise that your margarita-flavored lemonade is the most refreshing drink on the market, but your customers routinely complain that they took a sip and were surprised it didn’t contain tequila, there’s something off about the way you’re pitching the product. You have to rename the drink so that your customers don’t feel let down or tricked when they are trying your product.
Being transparent about your business practices is essential, too. Trust is a really important part of brand recognition because your customers need to feel like they know your brand perfectly well. Let your customers see how you work, how you care about them, and what your real priorities are in business. Even if the information isn't always the best, it should at least be true and painted in the best possible light.
2-2. Conduct market research to find out who you’re serving.
What's the age group and demographic of your main customer base? You might be surprised at the answer, so it’s important to conduct some research to find out who’s interested in the product you’re offering, and how they’re responding to your branding.
Consider running a focus group so you can test out how your product is received by people from different demographics. Ask them to describe their perception of your product before and after trying it.
Targeting a specific demographic is often more effective than trying to be universally appealing. You might find that you’ll decide to narrow your focus after learning who’s buying your product. For example, if you find that teenage boys are the most likely group to buy your snack mix, you may want to change your branding strategy to make your product even more appealing to this demographic.
2-3. Do a competitive analysis
Conduct research to find out what your competitors are offering, their strengths, and weaknesses as well. Then you can decide how your company should be better and unique among them. Your branding should focus on the difference, on what makes your product better than the rest. Finding that special something that sets you apart is essential, because your customers have so many choices that they’ll never even know your product exists unless you help it stand out.
You might find that a certain company has already cornered a particular segment of the market, but that doesn’t mean that your product won’t appeal to a slightly different demographic.
If you find that the market is saturated with great products, consider pivoting in a different direction. Either change your branding approach or tweak your product.
2-4. Talk with your customers.
It’s important to interact with the people who buy your product. Not only will they give you essential feedback on how your business could improve, but it’s a way for them to feel that they know your brand and what it stands for. Represent your brand's values in how you talk and how you act. And constantly give your customers the freedom to give feedback and ask questions so that they get the chance to become familiar and eventually trust your brand as potential customers.
Respond promptly to feedback when you receive it. If someone complains, make sure to hear him or her out with care and respect and resolve the issue to address the person’s concerns. Most importantly, do not ignore the negative feedback.
Avoid using automatic replies to emails. Try to make your business seem as personable and friendly as you can. Let your customers see your enthusiasm and your level of caring for them.
3. Promoting Your Brand
3-1. Develop a marketing strategy.
Have a plan in place to get your brand name in as many stores and in front of as many people as possible. Depending on the product or service you’re offering, you might want to consider taking out ads online, in newspapers, in magazines, and wherever you might find new customers.
Apply your branding, including your visual brand and brand messages, to all of your materials—from packaging, signage, and stationery, to your website and marketing materials. Don’t be shy about boldly branding your products and displaying them in as many venues as possible. You want your brand to be everywhere people look.
Advertise your brand in unexpected places. Radio advertisements, employee uniforms, and freebies with logos (such as tissues or pens) are all relatively inexpensive yet creative ways to promote your brand.
See if you can get publicity from a local newspaper, TV station, or a blog that will review your product or service.
3-2. Have a presence on social media.
Social media presence is one of the best methods to build up a potential brand these days. Get basic but relevant social media accounts and update them regularly with pictures, deals, and other information about your brand. Find things that are related and appeal to your customers and give them the chance to interact.
For example, if you're a travel company, you can post a picture of a beautiful location with a catchy message like: "Counting down the weeks to summer vacation and some time to unwind! Where do you want to travel this year?"
Do not become spam. Avoid constantly pushing your brand in an annoying way or without context or to people that have no interest. Stay out of your customer's recycle bins. Be real and conversational, not a metaphorical sleazy car salesman.
3-3. Have a killer website.
This is the age of the Internet and social media, so having a website is central to building a sustainable brand. It's fine to base your business in the flesh and traditional media, but if you don't at least have a website, you'll be seen as old-fashioned and inaccessible. Hire a professional or use a template to come up with a nice-looking website. This should, at a minimum, discuss what your brand is about, where your offices can be found, what your hours are, and how you can be contacted.
Use your site as an opportunity to tell your story with pride. People have an easier time understanding something that fits into a story, and they'll especially identify with things that let them feel like they're a part of that story. Give your customers a story that they can be a part of if you want to build your brand into a big name. Publish it on your website’s “about” page or distribute it in your publicity materials.
For example, in the '80s and '90s, Microsoft painted themselves as a company that pulled themselves up by their bootstraps in order to become the most innovative and effective product in their field. This resonated with business-oriented individuals, who wanted to see their own lives in the same way and who could feel a part of that spirit of greatness by buying Microsoft products.
3-4. Be involved in the community.
Having an in-person presence helps to build trust and spread the word about your brand. Throw events, attend events put on by others, do volunteer work, and be civically active. This is a great way for your customers and potential customers to see what your brand stands for.
Street fairs and other daytime events often provide opportunities for businesses to set up a table and hand out information. Take advantage of this opportunity to forge bonds with people in your community who could potentially be customers.
Giving back to your community through donations and sponsorships is another good way to get your brand out there. You could sponsor a little league team or a girl scout troop to build up your community presence.
Tips
Differentiate, innovate, cultivate, collaborate, move with the times and grow.
Know how much money you need to put into this. It can take some hundreds of dollars to make one, so don’t think you can just make one without a lot of money.
Have a role model. Don't think you are copying someone, you're just giving yourself an example.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating an Authentic Look and Message\\n1-1. Pinpoint your mission\\nWhat are qualities, values, and experiences are you going to offer your customers? To make your brand seem authentic and efficient, you need to project a truthful image of what your brand strives to provide. Before you can do that, it’s important to articulate your company’s mission so that you’re clear on what sets you apart from other competitors. Think about the following questions:\\nWhy did you start this business?\\nWhat are the goals you want to achieve?\\nWho are the people you want to provide a solution to?\\nWhat makes your company unique among others?\\n1-2. You have to decide how you want to be seen.\\nIn each step of your business, create a positive impression for customers to think of your brand almost like a living and breathing person they can trust. Emotionally, they need to feel that your brand is the one they should turn to when they are in need. Taking your mission into account, decide what type of attitude you want to project. What spin are you going to put on your mission? \\nMaybe you want your product to be seen as the ticket to an adventure or a brand new life or a second chance at youth. This approach is often taken by upscale food companies that sell products like goji berry juice or sprouted grain granola bars.\\nMaybe you want to present your brand as smart and cutting edge. Being seen with your product will make customers feel cool like they’re in a special club. Brands like Urban Outfitters and Apple take this approach.\\nAnother approach would be offering your customers a reliable, completely trustworthy option that will never let them down. This is a good approach if you’re selling a product that should never malfunction, like tires, or if you’re building a brand for your law practice.\\nYou could also rely on nostalgia to build your brand. People feel connected to things that remind them of childhood and carefree times.\\n1-3. Think from the customer's perspective.\\nWhen you buy a product, why do you buy it? What makes you choose a particular brand? See if you can use your answer to help you figure out how your own brand will come across. Find out what your customers are longing to feel and make your brand help them feel that way. Do they want to feel powerful? Responsible? Conscientious? Smart? Unique? Your brand needs to evoke this feeling with all of its copy, marketing, and design. Cue these feelings not only with language but with colors and product design as well.\\nBasically, you want to think about who you're trying to reach. Who is your market? What do they tend to enjoy hearing or seeing in other brands that they like?\\nAccording to brand name psychology, when customers hear your brand name for the first time, they receive a set of images, feelings, or even a storyline that triggers them emotionally to engage with your brand. According to research and studies, most of the decisions made by customers are based on these emotions rather than being rational.\\n1-4. Refine your brand language.\\nChoose a perfect brand name, a catchphrase or slogan and some keywords that you want to be associated with your branding strategies. The words should be closely aligned with your mission statement, make sense for customers, and be memorable enough to recall whenever needed. Use your brand language not only in the copy of your products and advertising but also when you discuss your business and make contacts in person. \\nKeep your text as streamlined and basic as you can because it is more memorable that way. A good example of this was the tagline Apple was using for much of the '90s and into the 2000s: \\\"Think Different\\\". This worked on multiple levels, because it painted the brand as smart and unique, and the concept was easily slipped into discussions and other branding platforms. Two words: ingeniously effective branding.\\nAll copy associated with your brand, including what appears on your product’s label, on your website, and in advertising materials, should match the tone you’re trying to project. For example, your company is meant to be seen as trustworthy and comfortably old-fashioned, use slightly formal language that will make your customers feel that the people who run your business are as dependable as their third-grade teacher.\\n1-5. Choose a design scheme.\\nYour brand needs a look that’s in keeping with the tone of your brand mission and language. Are you modern and sleek? Fun and colorful? Traditional and classic? This look should be synchronized across all of your media (brochures, website, product, offices, etc.).\\nDesign a great logo. Rather than representing your brand, your logo is useful to help embed your brand in your customer's right side of the brain. For example, when someone sees a checkmark, they remember Nike, even if there is no other clue that represents Nike. Your logo must be well designed by a professional and you should use it frequently and place it prominently.\\nChoose the colors that will represent your brand wisely. These colors will be used as often as possible on promotional materials to help evoke your brand. Examples include McDonald's gold and red, Google's red, yellow, green, and blue, or wikiHow's green and white.\\nRemember to keep both your brand name and logo simple. You want your brand to be easily recognized and unforgettable. The best way to do that is to be unique and simple.\\nYou might want to get legal protection for your visual branding and any distinctive phrases you use to describe your business or your offer.\\n1-6. Involve your employees.\\nCommunicate the importance of your brand to your employees and explain why and how you arrived at the brand identity you are promoting. You will need their support for your new branding to be effective.\\nRemember that everything your business does is linked to your brand in the eyes of the customer. Even the way your employees dress and behave.\\nYour employees may have their own image of your business. They'll have ideas about what your business stands for, and whether it is delivering on its promises. Employees can provide invaluable insights along the way. Ask your employees how they believe your product or service is being received on the market and don’t discount their opinions.\\n2. Gaining Customer Loyalty\\n2-1. Back up your message with a great product or service.\\nIf your messaging sounds good but you don’t deliver on your promises, your customers will go elsewhere, and your brand won’t catch on. If your brand delivers exactly what it promises, you’ll easily gain your customers’ trust. Before long, they’ll start spreading the word about your quality of service, and your brand’s reputation will soon speak for itself.\\nMake sure that your customers’ association with your brand lines up with what you’re offering, too. For example, if you promise that your margarita-flavored lemonade is the most refreshing drink on the market, but your customers routinely complain that they took a sip and were surprised it didn’t contain tequila, there’s something off about the way you’re pitching the product. You have to rename the drink so that your customers don’t feel let down or tricked when they are trying your product.\\nBeing transparent about your business practices is essential, too. Trust is a really important part of brand recognition because your customers need to feel like they know your brand perfectly well. Let your customers see how you work, how you care about them, and what your real priorities are in business. Even if the information isn't always the best, it should at least be true and painted in the best possible light.\\n2-2. Conduct market research to find out who you’re serving.\\nWhat's the age group and demographic of your main customer base? You might be surprised at the answer, so it’s important to conduct some research to find out who’s interested in the product you’re offering, and how they’re responding to your branding.\\nConsider running a focus group so you can test out how your product is received by people from different demographics. Ask them to describe their perception of your product before and after trying it.\\nTargeting a specific demographic is often more effective than trying to be universally appealing. You might find that you’ll decide to narrow your focus after learning who’s buying your product. For example, if you find that teenage boys are the most likely group to buy your snack mix, you may want to change your branding strategy to make your product even more appealing to this demographic.\\n2-3. Do a competitive analysis\\nConduct research to find out what your competitors are offering, their strengths, and weaknesses as well. Then you can decide how your company should be better and unique among them. Your branding should focus on the difference, on what makes your product better than the rest. Finding that special something that sets you apart is essential, because your customers have so many choices that they’ll never even know your product exists unless you help it stand out.\\nYou might find that a certain company has already cornered a particular segment of the market, but that doesn’t mean that your product won’t appeal to a slightly different demographic.\\nIf you find that the market is saturated with great products, consider pivoting in a different direction. Either change your branding approach or tweak your product.\\n2-4. Talk with your customers.\\nIt’s important to interact with the people who buy your product. Not only will they give you essential feedback on how your business could improve, but it’s a way for them to feel that they know your brand and what it stands for. Represent your brand's values in how you talk and how you act. And constantly give your customers the freedom to give feedback and ask questions so that they get the chance to become familiar and eventually trust your brand as potential customers.\\nRespond promptly to feedback when you receive it. If someone complains, make sure to hear him or her out with care and respect and resolve the issue to address the person’s concerns. Most importantly, do not ignore the negative feedback.\\nAvoid using automatic replies to emails. Try to make your business seem as personable and friendly as you can. Let your customers see your enthusiasm and your level of caring for them.\\n3. Promoting Your Brand\\n3-1. Develop a marketing strategy.\\nHave a plan in place to get your brand name in as many stores and in front of as many people as possible. Depending on the product or service you’re offering, you might want to consider taking out ads online, in newspapers, in magazines, and wherever you might find new customers.\\nApply your branding, including your visual brand and brand messages, to all of your materials—from packaging, signage, and stationery, to your website and marketing materials. Don’t be shy about boldly branding your products and displaying them in as many venues as possible. You want your brand to be everywhere people look.\\nAdvertise your brand in unexpected places. Radio advertisements, employee uniforms, and freebies with logos (such as tissues or pens) are all relatively inexpensive yet creative ways to promote your brand.\\nSee if you can get publicity from a local newspaper, TV station, or a blog that will review your product or service.\\n3-2. Have a presence on social media.\\nSocial media presence is one of the best methods to build up a potential brand these days. Get basic but relevant social media accounts and update them regularly with pictures, deals, and other information about your brand. Find things that are related and appeal to your customers and give them the chance to interact.\\nFor example, if you're a travel company, you can post a picture of a beautiful location with a catchy message like: \\\"Counting down the weeks to summer vacation and some time to unwind! Where do you want to travel this year?\\\"\\nDo not become spam. Avoid constantly pushing your brand in an annoying way or without context or to people that have no interest. Stay out of your customer's recycle bins. Be real and conversational, not a metaphorical sleazy car salesman.\\n3-3. Have a killer website.\\nThis is the age of the Internet and social media, so having a website is central to building a sustainable brand. It's fine to base your business in the flesh and traditional media, but if you don't at least have a website, you'll be seen as old-fashioned and inaccessible. Hire a professional or use a template to come up with a nice-looking website. This should, at a minimum, discuss what your brand is about, where your offices can be found, what your hours are, and how you can be contacted.\\nUse your site as an opportunity to tell your story with pride. People have an easier time understanding something that fits into a story, and they'll especially identify with things that let them feel like they're a part of that story. Give your customers a story that they can be a part of if you want to build your brand into a big name. Publish it on your website’s “about” page or distribute it in your publicity materials.\\nFor example, in the '80s and '90s, Microsoft painted themselves as a company that pulled themselves up by their bootstraps in order to become the most innovative and effective product in their field. This resonated with business-oriented individuals, who wanted to see their own lives in the same way and who could feel a part of that spirit of greatness by buying Microsoft products.\\n3-4. Be involved in the community.\\nHaving an in-person presence helps to build trust and spread the word about your brand. Throw events, attend events put on by others, do volunteer work, and be civically active. This is a great way for your customers and potential customers to see what your brand stands for.\\nStreet fairs and other daytime events often provide opportunities for businesses to set up a table and hand out information. Take advantage of this opportunity to forge bonds with people in your community who could potentially be customers.\\nGiving back to your community through donations and sponsorships is another good way to get your brand out there. You could sponsor a little league team or a girl scout troop to build up your community presence.\\nTips\\nDifferentiate, innovate, cultivate, collaborate, move with the times and grow.\\nKnow how much money you need to put into this. It can take some hundreds of dollars to make one, so don’t think you can just make one without a lot of money.\\nHave a role model. Don't think you are copying someone, you're just giving yourself an example.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Successful branding is the key to outdoing competitors and creating customer loyalty. Rather than selling or marketing something, branding is more of an emotional connection with your target customer base. It requires careful consideration of your mission, creative thinking, and a strong desire to connect with the people who will ultimately make your company successful. Start by realizing what is special about your brand; What makes your product worth someone's time? From there, develop an appealing brand name, a logo, and a slogan that represents your company's unique spirit. Then start promoting your brand with all your might.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating an Authentic Look and Message\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pinpoint your mission\", \"描述\": \"What are qualities, values, and experiences are you going to offer your customers? To make your brand seem authentic and efficient, you need to project a truthful image of what your brand strives to provide. Before you can do that, it’s important to articulate your company’s mission so that you’re clear on what sets you apart from other competitors. Think about the following questions:\\nWhy did you start this business?\\nWhat are the goals you want to achieve?\\nWho are the people you want to provide a solution to?\\nWhat makes your company unique among others?\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"You have to decide how you want to be seen.\", \"描述\": \"In each step of your business, create a positive impression for customers to think of your brand almost like a living and breathing person they can trust. Emotionally, they need to feel that your brand is the one they should turn to when they are in need. Taking your mission into account, decide what type of attitude you want to project. What spin are you going to put on your mission? \\nMaybe you want your product to be seen as the ticket to an adventure or a brand new life or a second chance at youth. This approach is often taken by upscale food companies that sell products like goji berry juice or sprouted grain granola bars.\\nMaybe you want to present your brand as smart and cutting edge. Being seen with your product will make customers feel cool like they’re in a special club. Brands like Urban Outfitters and Apple take this approach.\\nAnother approach would be offering your customers a reliable, completely trustworthy option that will never let them down. This is a good approach if you’re selling a product that should never malfunction, like tires, or if you’re building a brand for your law practice.\\nYou could also rely on nostalgia to build your brand. People feel connected to things that remind them of childhood and carefree times.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Think from the customer's perspective.\", \"描述\": \"When you buy a product, why do you buy it? What makes you choose a particular brand? See if you can use your answer to help you figure out how your own brand will come across. Find out what your customers are longing to feel and make your brand help them feel that way. Do they want to feel powerful? Responsible? Conscientious? Smart? Unique? Your brand needs to evoke this feeling with all of its copy, marketing, and design. Cue these feelings not only with language but with colors and product design as well.\\nBasically, you want to think about who you're trying to reach. Who is your market? What do they tend to enjoy hearing or seeing in other brands that they like?\\nAccording to brand name psychology, when customers hear your brand name for the first time, they receive a set of images, feelings, or even a storyline that triggers them emotionally to engage with your brand. According to research and studies, most of the decisions made by customers are based on these emotions rather than being rational.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Refine your brand language.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a perfect brand name, a catchphrase or slogan and some keywords that you want to be associated with your branding strategies. The words should be closely aligned with your mission statement, make sense for customers, and be memorable enough to recall whenever needed. Use your brand language not only in the copy of your products and advertising but also when you discuss your business and make contacts in person. \\nKeep your text as streamlined and basic as you can because it is more memorable that way. A good example of this was the tagline Apple was using for much of the '90s and into the 2000s: \\\"Think Different\\\". This worked on multiple levels, because it painted the brand as smart and unique, and the concept was easily slipped into discussions and other branding platforms. Two words: ingeniously effective branding.\\nAll copy associated with your brand, including what appears on your product’s label, on your website, and in advertising materials, should match the tone you’re trying to project. For example, your company is meant to be seen as trustworthy and comfortably old-fashioned, use slightly formal language that will make your customers feel that the people who run your business are as dependable as their third-grade teacher.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose a design scheme.\", \"描述\": \"Your brand needs a look that’s in keeping with the tone of your brand mission and language. Are you modern and sleek? Fun and colorful? Traditional and classic? This look should be synchronized across all of your media (brochures, website, product, offices, etc.).\\nDesign a great logo. Rather than representing your brand, your logo is useful to help embed your brand in your customer's right side of the brain. For example, when someone sees a checkmark, they remember Nike, even if there is no other clue that represents Nike. Your logo must be well designed by a professional and you should use it frequently and place it prominently.\\nChoose the colors that will represent your brand wisely. These colors will be used as often as possible on promotional materials to help evoke your brand. Examples include McDonald's gold and red, Google's red, yellow, green, and blue, or wikiHow's green and white.\\nRemember to keep both your brand name and logo simple. You want your brand to be easily recognized and unforgettable. The best way to do that is to be unique and simple.\\nYou might want to get legal protection for your visual branding and any distinctive phrases you use to describe your business or your offer.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Involve your employees.\", \"描述\": \"Communicate the importance of your brand to your employees and explain why and how you arrived at the brand identity you are promoting. You will need their support for your new branding to be effective.\\nRemember that everything your business does is linked to your brand in the eyes of the customer. Even the way your employees dress and behave.\\nYour employees may have their own image of your business. They'll have ideas about what your business stands for, and whether it is delivering on its promises. Employees can provide invaluable insights along the way. Ask your employees how they believe your product or service is being received on the market and don’t discount their opinions.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gaining Customer Loyalty\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Back up your message with a great product or service.\", \"描述\": \"If your messaging sounds good but you don’t deliver on your promises, your customers will go elsewhere, and your brand won’t catch on. If your brand delivers exactly what it promises, you’ll easily gain your customers’ trust. Before long, they’ll start spreading the word about your quality of service, and your brand’s reputation will soon speak for itself.\\nMake sure that your customers’ association with your brand lines up with what you’re offering, too. For example, if you promise that your margarita-flavored lemonade is the most refreshing drink on the market, but your customers routinely complain that they took a sip and were surprised it didn’t contain tequila, there’s something off about the way you’re pitching the product. You have to rename the drink so that your customers don’t feel let down or tricked when they are trying your product.\\nBeing transparent about your business practices is essential, too. Trust is a really important part of brand recognition because your customers need to feel like they know your brand perfectly well. Let your customers see how you work, how you care about them, and what your real priorities are in business. Even if the information isn't always the best, it should at least be true and painted in the best possible light.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Conduct market research to find out who you’re serving.\", \"描述\": \"What's the age group and demographic of your main customer base? You might be surprised at the answer, so it’s important to conduct some research to find out who’s interested in the product you’re offering, and how they’re responding to your branding.\\nConsider running a focus group so you can test out how your product is received by people from different demographics. Ask them to describe their perception of your product before and after trying it.\\nTargeting a specific demographic is often more effective than trying to be universally appealing. You might find that you’ll decide to narrow your focus after learning who’s buying your product. For example, if you find that teenage boys are the most likely group to buy your snack mix, you may want to change your branding strategy to make your product even more appealing to this demographic.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Do a competitive analysis\", \"描述\": \"Conduct research to find out what your competitors are offering, their strengths, and weaknesses as well. Then you can decide how your company should be better and unique among them. Your branding should focus on the difference, on what makes your product better than the rest. Finding that special something that sets you apart is essential, because your customers have so many choices that they’ll never even know your product exists unless you help it stand out.\\nYou might find that a certain company has already cornered a particular segment of the market, but that doesn’t mean that your product won’t appeal to a slightly different demographic.\\nIf you find that the market is saturated with great products, consider pivoting in a different direction. Either change your branding approach or tweak your product.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Talk with your customers.\", \"描述\": \"It’s important to interact with the people who buy your product. Not only will they give you essential feedback on how your business could improve, but it’s a way for them to feel that they know your brand and what it stands for. Represent your brand's values in how you talk and how you act. And constantly give your customers the freedom to give feedback and ask questions so that they get the chance to become familiar and eventually trust your brand as potential customers.\\nRespond promptly to feedback when you receive it. If someone complains, make sure to hear him or her out with care and respect and resolve the issue to address the person’s concerns. Most importantly, do not ignore the negative feedback.\\nAvoid using automatic replies to emails. Try to make your business seem as personable and friendly as you can. Let your customers see your enthusiasm and your level of caring for them.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Promoting Your Brand\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Develop a marketing strategy.\", \"描述\": \"Have a plan in place to get your brand name in as many stores and in front of as many people as possible. Depending on the product or service you’re offering, you might want to consider taking out ads online, in newspapers, in magazines, and wherever you might find new customers.\\nApply your branding, including your visual brand and brand messages, to all of your materials—from packaging, signage, and stationery, to your website and marketing materials. Don’t be shy about boldly branding your products and displaying them in as many venues as possible. You want your brand to be everywhere people look.\\nAdvertise your brand in unexpected places. Radio advertisements, employee uniforms, and freebies with logos (such as tissues or pens) are all relatively inexpensive yet creative ways to promote your brand.\\nSee if you can get publicity from a local newspaper, TV station, or a blog that will review your product or service.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Have a presence on social media.\", \"描述\": \"Social media presence is one of the best methods to build up a potential brand these days. Get basic but relevant social media accounts and update them regularly with pictures, deals, and other information about your brand. Find things that are related and appeal to your customers and give them the chance to interact.\\nFor example, if you're a travel company, you can post a picture of a beautiful location with a catchy message like: \\\"Counting down the weeks to summer vacation and some time to unwind! Where do you want to travel this year?\\\"\\nDo not become spam. Avoid constantly pushing your brand in an annoying way or without context or to people that have no interest. Stay out of your customer's recycle bins. Be real and conversational, not a metaphorical sleazy car salesman.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Have a killer website.\", \"描述\": \"This is the age of the Internet and social media, so having a website is central to building a sustainable brand. It's fine to base your business in the flesh and traditional media, but if you don't at least have a website, you'll be seen as old-fashioned and inaccessible. Hire a professional or use a template to come up with a nice-looking website. This should, at a minimum, discuss what your brand is about, where your offices can be found, what your hours are, and how you can be contacted.\\nUse your site as an opportunity to tell your story with pride. People have an easier time understanding something that fits into a story, and they'll especially identify with things that let them feel like they're a part of that story. Give your customers a story that they can be a part of if you want to build your brand into a big name. Publish it on your website’s “about” page or distribute it in your publicity materials.\\nFor example, in the '80s and '90s, Microsoft painted themselves as a company that pulled themselves up by their bootstraps in order to become the most innovative and effective product in their field. This resonated with business-oriented individuals, who wanted to see their own lives in the same way and who could feel a part of that spirit of greatness by buying Microsoft products.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Be involved in the community.\", \"描述\": \"Having an in-person presence helps to build trust and spread the word about your brand. Throw events, attend events put on by others, do volunteer work, and be civically active. This is a great way for your customers and potential customers to see what your brand stands for.\\nStreet fairs and other daytime events often provide opportunities for businesses to set up a table and hand out information. Take advantage of this opportunity to forge bonds with people in your community who could potentially be customers.\\nGiving back to your community through donations and sponsorships is another good way to get your brand out there. You could sponsor a little league team or a girl scout troop to build up your community presence.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Differentiate, innovate, cultivate, collaborate, move with the times and grow.\\n\", \"Know how much money you need to put into this. It can take some hundreds of dollars to make one, so don’t think you can just make one without a lot of money.\\n\", \"Have a role model. Don't think you are copying someone, you're just giving yourself an example.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,240 |
How to Build a Brick Fireplace With a Chimney in Minecraft
|
1. Making Brick Blocks for Your Fireplace
1-1. Gather clay.
You can find clay in veins along the bottom of shallow rivers, swamps or inside of mason houses (plains, savanna, and desert villages).
You can break clay blocks with your hand, but using a shovel works best.
Breaking clay blocks always drops 4 clay balls, regardless of Fortune.
1-2. Turn the clay into bricks.
Add a clay ball and a fuel source, like coal or planks, to your furnace, to smelt the clay balls into bricks.
Make sure you smelt the clay balls, and not the clay block. Smelting the clay block will give Hardened Clay/Terracotta which can't be turned back to normal clay.
1-3. Craft the bricks.
Brick items, need to be crafted into blocks first before they can be used to build with. To do this, place 4 bricks in a 2x2 square in your crafting menu.
Bricks (the item not the block) can also be used to craft flower pots.
1-4. Trading with Villagers.
Alternatively, you can trade emeralds for bricks with a Stone Mason villager instead of gathering the clay yourself.
Stone Masons houses can naturally spawn as part of a village, but you can also convert an unemployed villager into a stone mason by placing a Stonecutter close to them.
This method is recommended for large projects as less time is spent just looking for clay.
For a smaller project like this you shouldn't need to trade with too many villagers, but for a larger build, its a good idea to invest in a trading hall.
2. Making a Brick Fireplace with a Chimney
2-1. Dig out a 2 brick by 4 brick hole up to the ceiling on an exterior wall of your base.
2-2. Dig out the 2 bricks on the floor in the center of the hole you just made.
2-3. Line the hole with brick blocks.
Place 2 netherrack in the floor holes and cover the rest of the fireplace 1 block deeper.
If you want a fireplace escape route make the fireplace either 2x1x3 or 2x2x3 (these dimensions are: height x width x length/back) with a hallway that leads somewhere safe (like a hidden bunker) and a minecart behind where the flame will be.(it will work even if the fire is... flaming, but just in case dig a 1x1 hole in the hall and place a bucket of water)
2-4. Extend the chimney as high as you want out of the side of your base.
2-5. Light up the netherrack with your flint and steel to complete your fireplace.
Tips
Add metal bars in front of the fire to avoid spreading, and you or any mobs in your base from accidentally walking into the fire.
If you don't have access to the Nether, flammable blocks like wood or wool are a good alternative.
Netherrack, Soul Soil, Bedrock (only in the End), and Magma Blocks will burn until you (the player) put them out. This only applies to the top of the block, not the sides or bottom.
Warnings
If you have flammable blocks less than 4 blocks above the fire or above adjacent blocks, then those blocks will ignite, so make sure no flammable blocks are within this zone.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making Brick Blocks for Your Fireplace\\n1-1. Gather clay.\\nYou can find clay in veins along the bottom of shallow rivers, swamps or inside of mason houses (plains, savanna, and desert villages).\\nYou can break clay blocks with your hand, but using a shovel works best.\\nBreaking clay blocks always drops 4 clay balls, regardless of Fortune.\\n1-2. Turn the clay into bricks.\\nAdd a clay ball and a fuel source, like coal or planks, to your furnace, to smelt the clay balls into bricks.\\nMake sure you smelt the clay balls, and not the clay block. Smelting the clay block will give Hardened Clay/Terracotta which can't be turned back to normal clay.\\n1-3. Craft the bricks.\\nBrick items, need to be crafted into blocks first before they can be used to build with. To do this, place 4 bricks in a 2x2 square in your crafting menu.\\nBricks (the item not the block) can also be used to craft flower pots.\\n1-4. Trading with Villagers.\\nAlternatively, you can trade emeralds for bricks with a Stone Mason villager instead of gathering the clay yourself.\\nStone Masons houses can naturally spawn as part of a village, but you can also convert an unemployed villager into a stone mason by placing a Stonecutter close to them.\\nThis method is recommended for large projects as less time is spent just looking for clay.\\nFor a smaller project like this you shouldn't need to trade with too many villagers, but for a larger build, its a good idea to invest in a trading hall.\\n2. Making a Brick Fireplace with a Chimney\\n2-1. Dig out a 2 brick by 4 brick hole up to the ceiling on an exterior wall of your base.\\n\\n2-2. Dig out the 2 bricks on the floor in the center of the hole you just made.\\n\\n2-3. Line the hole with brick blocks.\\nPlace 2 netherrack in the floor holes and cover the rest of the fireplace 1 block deeper.\\nIf you want a fireplace escape route make the fireplace either 2x1x3 or 2x2x3 (these dimensions are: height x width x length/back) with a hallway that leads somewhere safe (like a hidden bunker) and a minecart behind where the flame will be.(it will work even if the fire is... flaming, but just in case dig a 1x1 hole in the hall and place a bucket of water)\\n2-4. Extend the chimney as high as you want out of the side of your base.\\n\\n2-5. Light up the netherrack with your flint and steel to complete your fireplace.\\n\\nTips\\nAdd metal bars in front of the fire to avoid spreading, and you or any mobs in your base from accidentally walking into the fire.\\nIf you don't have access to the Nether, flammable blocks like wood or wool are a good alternative.\\nNetherrack, Soul Soil, Bedrock (only in the End), and Magma Blocks will burn until you (the player) put them out. This only applies to the top of the block, not the sides or bottom.\\nWarnings\\nIf you have flammable blocks less than 4 blocks above the fire or above adjacent blocks, then those blocks will ignite, so make sure no flammable blocks are within this zone.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"While a fireplace has no specific function in Minecraft, it can add a nice touch to your home. Follow this guide to learn how to build a brick fireplace with a chimney in Minecraft.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making Brick Blocks for Your Fireplace\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather clay.\", \"描述\": \"You can find clay in veins along the bottom of shallow rivers, swamps or inside of mason houses (plains, savanna, and desert villages).\\nYou can break clay blocks with your hand, but using a shovel works best.\\nBreaking clay blocks always drops 4 clay balls, regardless of Fortune.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Turn the clay into bricks.\", \"描述\": \"Add a clay ball and a fuel source, like coal or planks, to your furnace, to smelt the clay balls into bricks.\\nMake sure you smelt the clay balls, and not the clay block. Smelting the clay block will give Hardened Clay/Terracotta which can't be turned back to normal clay.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Craft the bricks.\", \"描述\": \"Brick items, need to be crafted into blocks first before they can be used to build with. To do this, place 4 bricks in a 2x2 square in your crafting menu.\\nBricks (the item not the block) can also be used to craft flower pots.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Trading with Villagers.\", \"描述\": \"Alternatively, you can trade emeralds for bricks with a Stone Mason villager instead of gathering the clay yourself.\\nStone Masons houses can naturally spawn as part of a village, but you can also convert an unemployed villager into a stone mason by placing a Stonecutter close to them.\\nThis method is recommended for large projects as less time is spent just looking for clay.\\nFor a smaller project like this you shouldn't need to trade with too many villagers, but for a larger build, its a good idea to invest in a trading hall.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Brick Fireplace with a Chimney\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig out a 2 brick by 4 brick hole up to the ceiling on an exterior wall of your base.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig out the 2 bricks on the floor in the center of the hole you just made.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Line the hole with brick blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Place 2 netherrack in the floor holes and cover the rest of the fireplace 1 block deeper.\\nIf you want a fireplace escape route make the fireplace either 2x1x3 or 2x2x3 (these dimensions are: height x width x length/back) with a hallway that leads somewhere safe (like a hidden bunker) and a minecart behind where the flame will be.(it will work even if the fire is... flaming, but just in case dig a 1x1 hole in the hall and place a bucket of water)\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Extend the chimney as high as you want out of the side of your base.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Light up the netherrack with your flint and steel to complete your fireplace.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Add metal bars in front of the fire to avoid spreading, and you or any mobs in your base from accidentally walking into the fire.\\n\", \"If you don't have access to the Nether, flammable blocks like wood or wool are a good alternative.\\n\", \"Netherrack, Soul Soil, Bedrock (only in the End), and Magma Blocks will burn until you (the player) put them out. This only applies to the top of the block, not the sides or bottom.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you have flammable blocks less than 4 blocks above the fire or above adjacent blocks, then those blocks will ignite, so make sure no flammable blocks are within this zone.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,241 |
How to Build a Brick Wall
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1. Preparing the Wall
1-1. Select your bricks.
There are many varieties of brick, but they all fall into three main categories:
Severe weathering (SW) bricks can withstand direct contact with the ground and moisture. Use these for foundations, patios, garden walls, and so on.
Medium weathering (MW) bricks can withstand freezing temperatures and above ground exterior work (not direct ground contact).
No weathering (NW) bricks are for interior work only.
1-2. Purchase the right amount of bricks.
Bricks come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but the most important thing to remember is that you must adjust the size bricks you buy to account for the mortar. The most common brick, a modular brick, has "specified" dimensions 3⅝" wide, 2¼" tall, and 7⅝" long (even if they are sold under nominal whole number measurements). They are typically used with mortar joints ½" thick. Taking the mortar into account, each brick will take up 4⅛" x 2¾" x 8¼" of space.
You must add the mortar measurements when planning your wall. The combination measurement of brick and mortar is called the brick's "nominal" size.
Three rows of bricks stacked on top of each other will be 8" tall.
For example, to make a wall 2 ft tall x 6 ft long, calculate (24" / 2¾") for height and (72" / 8¼") for length, rounding up. In this case, you'll need 81 bricks, 9 rows tall x 9 bricks long.
Purchase at least five extra bricks to cut in half to begin new rows, plus an additional one brick per row in case of damaged bricks.
If the ground is uneven or sloped, plan to install an additional one or two rows of bricks below the finished grade level to create a level base.
1-3. Dig out a trench for your foundation.
You need to dig out a trench to seat the wall in, which you then make solid with a layer of concrete. This is often called a footer, or concrete foundation. Dig out a rectangular trench the length and width of your planned wall, roughly 1 foot deep.
If your wall is more than 2 feet tall, you may need a deeper or wider trench. If the "footer" you install (as described below) is not strong enough to support the wall, the wall can sag or collapse. You can look up recommended dimensions online based on your soil's load bearing capacity and the size of your project.
Make sure the footer will have good water drainage away from the wall. Water pooling around the footer can cause wall failure.
1-4. Drive level wooden stakes into your trench.
Take several wooden stakes and drive them into the soil so that the tops of them are all level. Find the nominal height of your bricks (the height of the bricks plus 1/2" for mortar), then drive the posts so that they are all this height below the top of the trench. Use a level to ensure that the tops of the stakes are completely level.
For this example, with 2-2/3" bricks, you would want 2-2/3" of space between the top of your guide posts and the lip of the trench. This is so the first row of bricks is completely seated in your foundation.
Space these posts 2-4 feet apart, depending on the length of your wall.
1-5. Mix and pour concrete up to the top of the guideposts
Fill in the trench up to the top of the stakes, leaving the space you measured for your bricks. The concrete needs 2-3 days to dry and set, so use this time to start gathering supplies and preparing your measurements.
Use a finishing trowel to make sure the top of the concrete is smooth and level before it starts drying.
You can notch a "keyway joint" or "V" into the middle of the footer to help interlock it into the mortar bed.
1-6. Make your guideposts.
Also called gauging rods, these will ensure that your wall is level. Take 2 long wooden boards or posts and measure out each row of the brick wall, also known as a course. Mark the boards where each brick should be, including the mortar lines. Make sure you can drive the posts into the ground so that they can be freestanding. They should be as tall as your wall will be.
For the 2x6ft wall, make a mark 2-1/4" up from the bottom -- this is the height of the first brick. Make another mark 1/2" above that, then continue this pattern up to the top of the wall, here 2 feet high. You want two of these, one for each side of the wall.
These rods will be the rulers for your wall, and need to be identically lined up. Use a level and your tape measure to make sure the wall is immaculately planned.
1-7. Gather your supplies while the foundation dries.
You'll need quite a bit of stuff to build your wall, all things considered. Once the foundation is set and your guideposts are built, it's time to get your building materials in order. You will need:
String and clamps/nails (to create guidelines)
Mortar and a mixing bucket
Level
Brick jointer
Club hammer
Tape measure
Water
Dry bristle brush
Tarps or plywood to lay at base of wall
Small torpedo level to check individual bricks
4 ft level
2. Building The First Row
2-1. Put down tarps or plywood to catch mortar.
Lay down tarps or 2 ft wide plywood at the base of the wall to catch excess mortar as it falls. Keep this surface clean and avoid walking on it so you can reuse this mortar.
2-2. Lay your first row of bricks in the foundation for a dry run.
Space them out appropriately, accounting for the mortar. Use your tape measure to make sure that they are the correct distance apart, and make sure that they fit in the trench snugly. Plan out the whole first row like this before you start any work.
If you do not have bricklaying experience, read through this entire section first. You may need to practice a few techniques before you begin.
2-3. Clamp a string on your first guideline.
This is going to be for the second layer of bricks, as the first one will be buried in the trench. Run the string from one gauging rod to the other so that you have a straight, level line to work with.
Don't let the line sag. This must be kept "true" for a solid, level wall without major structural issues.
It's really important that you ensure everything is symmetrical and perfectly squared for the first 2-3 courses so the rest of your brick wall turns out straight and even.
2-4. Soak the bricks and let dry.
Soak the bricks in water, then lay them out to drip dry. The bricks should be thoroughly wet so the mortar bonds correctly. That said, wait until there is no more water running off the bricks, or the mortar may become too runny.
2-5. Lay the first 1/2 inch of mortar along the base of the foundation.
When in doubt, add a little bit extra mortar, as you will be pushing the brick down slightly. Use your trowel to lightly press into the mortar along the center line, leaving little intents. The mortar will look like little waves.
2-6. Press the first brick into the mortar.
Push down slightly, then use your level to check that the brick even with the ground. To do so, press the level up against the side of the brick and then check it with your string sting line.
Scrape any excess mortar down the line. You can use this mortar for the next bricks as long as it is free from contaminants.
2-7. Lay mortar down for the next 2-3 bricks.
Once you're sure your first brick is set, lay down some mortar for the next few. You only want to work with 2-3 bricks worth of mortar at a time.
2-8. Butter the end of the next brick with mortar and press it into place.
Take a slab of mortar and coat the end of the brick that will be pushed up against the first brick. You want a nice, even pat of mortar, just a little more than a 1/2" worth. Press it into place against to the first brick and use your tape measure to make sure they are 1/2" apart and joined by mortar.
This is a very important step that ensures a strong bond between bricks. If you skip this and try to fill the mortar in between laid bricks, the joint will eventually fail. For best results, practice this several times on spare bricks before you move on to the real wall.
2-9. Press the brick lightly into the 1/2" of mortar you've laid down so that it is level with the first brick.
Use the level to ensure that the bricks are flush and at an even height, pushing on them lightly to make sure that they are perfect.
2-10. Scrape away any excess mortar as you work.
You've pressed the bricks together, you'll notice that mortar starts to squeeze out as you work to get 1/2" joints. Use your trowel to scrape the mortar away and down onto the tarp or plywood at the base of the wall. As long as that surface is kept clean, you can reuse the mortar for the next brick.
2-11. Keep adding bricks until the row is finished.
Continue laying bricks down in this fashion -- mortar bottom and side, press in, check evenness with the level-- until your first row, or course, is complete.
You can never check if the wall is level enough. You should be using your level and tape measure with almost every brick.
3. Building Additional Rows
3-1. Move your guideline up to the next marker.
It should be the 1/2 mortar marker that joins your 1st and 2nd rows. For the second row it should already be in place, but you need to remember to move the line each time you move up a row so that you know the height you have to hit.
3-2. Cut a brick in half with a firm tap from the pointed end of a hammer.
You can also use a bolster, which may make a cleaner cut. Still, bricks are meant to break cleanly. Tap on the point you want to cut the brick with the back of a hammer until you see a crack, then hit this spot hard, once, to cut the brick in half.
You need to stagger your bricks, meaning that one brick in the second row sits on two bricks in the row below it. To do this, you'll start every other new row with half a brick.
You don't need a perfectly clean, smooth cut. The rough edges will help hold the mortar.
3-3. Start the second row with 1/2 a brick on both ends.
You do not want to make the next row right on top of the first one, so that the joints line up. Mortar and place the half brick, then place a full brick next it like normal. Do this on both ends of the wall, so that each side has a half brick and a full brick in place.
3-4. Mortar and place one full brick on top of your ends.
To help you stay level, you build the ends of the wall up a course higher than you're working on, making it appear like there are staircases on the ends of the wall. You then fill in the bottom row, build the sides up a little higher, then continue until you reach the top.
Remember to use the guideline and your level together to make sure the bricks are even and at the right height.
Your gauging rods should help you place the end bricks, as they will line up right with the marks planted at the end of your wall.
3-5. Fill in the entire bottom row.
Place roughly 1/2" of mortar down, press the brick into place, check the straightness with the guideline and level, and wipe up any excess mortar. Then repeat until the second row is done.
3-6. Continue building your wall from the ends inward.
You want to have the ends of your wall one course higher than the row you are currently working on. This is especially important if the wall has pillars on either end. With each row, the process is the same. However, remember to use half-bricks every other row to ensure that the joints in each row are not perfectly lined up.
Move the guideline.
Apply mortar.
Press a brick into either end of the wall, using the guidelines and level to make sure they are at the right height.
Do the same thing one row above the one you're currently working on.
Measure, mortar, and build the bottommost row, (infill the courses).
Repeat the process one row higher.
4. Finishing the Wall
4-1. Try unique brick patterns for the top of the wall.
Depending on what you built, you can finish your wall by turning or angling your bricks differently at any time. Popular options include:
or standing the bricks up so that they are up straight, like soldiers at attention.
are when the shortest side of the brick points out. The top row of bricks is spun 90 degrees from the bottom one.
4-2. Fill in any missing patches of mortar along the wall.
Use your trowel to fill in any patches or gaps in the joints, making sure there is a nice, even amount of mortar holding your wall together. Wait roughly 45-60 minutes before continuing -- the mortar should be slightly hardened, but not set, before moving on.
4-3. Use a brick jointer to indent the mortar professionally.
Brick jointers are cheap little tools that help you get the professional, curved in joints on your wall. Firmly press the tool into the joints and run it down the mortar, trimming and polishing your wall.
4-4. Consider other jointing patterns for your wall.
A single brick width wall is easy to make, but not incredibly strong. More common is a double-brick wall, which can be easily adapted to your needs. Instead of alternating half bricks with full ones you simply need to alternate turning each brick on the ends, since 1 brick is as long as the width of two bricks. Every other row would begin with a brick that faces perpendicular to the direction of the wall, helping you keep the joints staggered.
To help you remember where to place the bricks, think of how the wall looks when you're facing it. Every other row has a small, "square" brick, followed by the long bricks running parallel to the wall.
4-5. Add pillars to your design.
Pillars are not incredibly difficult to add, but they do take some planning. They are basically squared "mini-wall," designed so that half of middle bricks "pokes out" into the wall, connecting everything together. Once you've decided on your pillar design, make sure you build them up at least 1-2 rows higher than the courses in between. You need to build the pillars up a few rows, then fill in the wall between them, only getting to the top of the wall after you've already finished both pillars.
Tips
Keep all tools and worksites clean. Wash tools frequently for easier use, but make sure they are dry before contacting the mortar.
The first course height is not as important to get perfect because it can be fixed in the second and third courses.
If you're building a wall against an existing wall, you still need gauging rods to get the height right. However, you can use the existing wall for help and support too.
Warnings
Always wear safety goggles and gloves when cutting bricks and mixing mortar. Mortar mix is very corrosive and will chap the hands. Lightly rubbing petroleum jelly (Vaseline) into your hands will help, but make sure your hands are not greasy. Most liquid hand soaps have some oil in them and can help if you do not have any petroleum jelly but you will have to wash your hands more frequently to get the benefit.
Wear hard hats, especially if someone is working above you.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing the Wall\\n1-1. Select your bricks.\\nThere are many varieties of brick, but they all fall into three main categories:\\nSevere weathering (SW) bricks can withstand direct contact with the ground and moisture. Use these for foundations, patios, garden walls, and so on.\\nMedium weathering (MW) bricks can withstand freezing temperatures and above ground exterior work (not direct ground contact).\\nNo weathering (NW) bricks are for interior work only.\\n1-2. Purchase the right amount of bricks.\\nBricks come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but the most important thing to remember is that you must adjust the size bricks you buy to account for the mortar. The most common brick, a modular brick, has \\\"specified\\\" dimensions 3⅝\\\" wide, 2¼\\\" tall, and 7⅝\\\" long (even if they are sold under nominal whole number measurements). They are typically used with mortar joints ½\\\" thick. Taking the mortar into account, each brick will take up 4⅛\\\" x 2¾\\\" x 8¼\\\" of space.\\nYou must add the mortar measurements when planning your wall. The combination measurement of brick and mortar is called the brick's \\\"nominal\\\" size.\\nThree rows of bricks stacked on top of each other will be 8\\\" tall.\\nFor example, to make a wall 2 ft tall x 6 ft long, calculate (24\\\" / 2¾\\\") for height and (72\\\" / 8¼\\\") for length, rounding up. In this case, you'll need 81 bricks, 9 rows tall x 9 bricks long.\\nPurchase at least five extra bricks to cut in half to begin new rows, plus an additional one brick per row in case of damaged bricks.\\nIf the ground is uneven or sloped, plan to install an additional one or two rows of bricks below the finished grade level to create a level base.\\n1-3. Dig out a trench for your foundation.\\nYou need to dig out a trench to seat the wall in, which you then make solid with a layer of concrete. This is often called a footer, or concrete foundation. Dig out a rectangular trench the length and width of your planned wall, roughly 1 foot deep.\\nIf your wall is more than 2 feet tall, you may need a deeper or wider trench. If the \\\"footer\\\" you install (as described below) is not strong enough to support the wall, the wall can sag or collapse. You can look up recommended dimensions online based on your soil's load bearing capacity and the size of your project.\\nMake sure the footer will have good water drainage away from the wall. Water pooling around the footer can cause wall failure.\\n1-4. Drive level wooden stakes into your trench.\\nTake several wooden stakes and drive them into the soil so that the tops of them are all level. Find the nominal height of your bricks (the height of the bricks plus 1/2\\\" for mortar), then drive the posts so that they are all this height below the top of the trench. Use a level to ensure that the tops of the stakes are completely level.\\nFor this example, with 2-2/3\\\" bricks, you would want 2-2/3\\\" of space between the top of your guide posts and the lip of the trench. This is so the first row of bricks is completely seated in your foundation.\\nSpace these posts 2-4 feet apart, depending on the length of your wall.\\n1-5. Mix and pour concrete up to the top of the guideposts\\nFill in the trench up to the top of the stakes, leaving the space you measured for your bricks. The concrete needs 2-3 days to dry and set, so use this time to start gathering supplies and preparing your measurements.\\nUse a finishing trowel to make sure the top of the concrete is smooth and level before it starts drying.\\nYou can notch a \\\"keyway joint\\\" or \\\"V\\\" into the middle of the footer to help interlock it into the mortar bed.\\n1-6. Make your guideposts.\\nAlso called gauging rods, these will ensure that your wall is level. Take 2 long wooden boards or posts and measure out each row of the brick wall, also known as a course. Mark the boards where each brick should be, including the mortar lines. Make sure you can drive the posts into the ground so that they can be freestanding. They should be as tall as your wall will be.\\nFor the 2x6ft wall, make a mark 2-1/4\\\" up from the bottom -- this is the height of the first brick. Make another mark 1/2\\\" above that, then continue this pattern up to the top of the wall, here 2 feet high. You want two of these, one for each side of the wall.\\nThese rods will be the rulers for your wall, and need to be identically lined up. Use a level and your tape measure to make sure the wall is immaculately planned.\\n1-7. Gather your supplies while the foundation dries.\\nYou'll need quite a bit of stuff to build your wall, all things considered. Once the foundation is set and your guideposts are built, it's time to get your building materials in order. You will need:\\nString and clamps/nails (to create guidelines)\\nMortar and a mixing bucket\\nLevel\\nBrick jointer\\nClub hammer\\nTape measure\\nWater\\nDry bristle brush\\nTarps or plywood to lay at base of wall\\nSmall torpedo level to check individual bricks\\n4 ft level\\n2. Building The First Row\\n2-1. Put down tarps or plywood to catch mortar.\\nLay down tarps or 2 ft wide plywood at the base of the wall to catch excess mortar as it falls. Keep this surface clean and avoid walking on it so you can reuse this mortar.\\n2-2. Lay your first row of bricks in the foundation for a dry run.\\nSpace them out appropriately, accounting for the mortar. Use your tape measure to make sure that they are the correct distance apart, and make sure that they fit in the trench snugly. Plan out the whole first row like this before you start any work.\\nIf you do not have bricklaying experience, read through this entire section first. You may need to practice a few techniques before you begin.\\n2-3. Clamp a string on your first guideline.\\nThis is going to be for the second layer of bricks, as the first one will be buried in the trench. Run the string from one gauging rod to the other so that you have a straight, level line to work with.\\nDon't let the line sag. This must be kept \\\"true\\\" for a solid, level wall without major structural issues.\\nIt's really important that you ensure everything is symmetrical and perfectly squared for the first 2-3 courses so the rest of your brick wall turns out straight and even.\\n2-4. Soak the bricks and let dry.\\nSoak the bricks in water, then lay them out to drip dry. The bricks should be thoroughly wet so the mortar bonds correctly. That said, wait until there is no more water running off the bricks, or the mortar may become too runny.\\n2-5. Lay the first 1/2 inch of mortar along the base of the foundation.\\nWhen in doubt, add a little bit extra mortar, as you will be pushing the brick down slightly. Use your trowel to lightly press into the mortar along the center line, leaving little intents. The mortar will look like little waves.\\n2-6. Press the first brick into the mortar.\\nPush down slightly, then use your level to check that the brick even with the ground. To do so, press the level up against the side of the brick and then check it with your string sting line.\\nScrape any excess mortar down the line. You can use this mortar for the next bricks as long as it is free from contaminants.\\n2-7. Lay mortar down for the next 2-3 bricks.\\nOnce you're sure your first brick is set, lay down some mortar for the next few. You only want to work with 2-3 bricks worth of mortar at a time.\\n2-8. Butter the end of the next brick with mortar and press it into place.\\nTake a slab of mortar and coat the end of the brick that will be pushed up against the first brick. You want a nice, even pat of mortar, just a little more than a 1/2\\\" worth. Press it into place against to the first brick and use your tape measure to make sure they are 1/2\\\" apart and joined by mortar.\\nThis is a very important step that ensures a strong bond between bricks. If you skip this and try to fill the mortar in between laid bricks, the joint will eventually fail. For best results, practice this several times on spare bricks before you move on to the real wall.\\n2-9. Press the brick lightly into the 1/2\\\" of mortar you've laid down so that it is level with the first brick.\\nUse the level to ensure that the bricks are flush and at an even height, pushing on them lightly to make sure that they are perfect.\\n2-10. Scrape away any excess mortar as you work.\\nYou've pressed the bricks together, you'll notice that mortar starts to squeeze out as you work to get 1/2\\\" joints. Use your trowel to scrape the mortar away and down onto the tarp or plywood at the base of the wall. As long as that surface is kept clean, you can reuse the mortar for the next brick.\\n2-11. Keep adding bricks until the row is finished.\\nContinue laying bricks down in this fashion -- mortar bottom and side, press in, check evenness with the level-- until your first row, or course, is complete.\\nYou can never check if the wall is level enough. You should be using your level and tape measure with almost every brick.\\n3. Building Additional Rows\\n3-1. Move your guideline up to the next marker.\\nIt should be the 1/2 mortar marker that joins your 1st and 2nd rows. For the second row it should already be in place, but you need to remember to move the line each time you move up a row so that you know the height you have to hit.\\n3-2. Cut a brick in half with a firm tap from the pointed end of a hammer.\\nYou can also use a bolster, which may make a cleaner cut. Still, bricks are meant to break cleanly. Tap on the point you want to cut the brick with the back of a hammer until you see a crack, then hit this spot hard, once, to cut the brick in half.\\nYou need to stagger your bricks, meaning that one brick in the second row sits on two bricks in the row below it. To do this, you'll start every other new row with half a brick.\\nYou don't need a perfectly clean, smooth cut. The rough edges will help hold the mortar.\\n3-3. Start the second row with 1/2 a brick on both ends.\\nYou do not want to make the next row right on top of the first one, so that the joints line up. Mortar and place the half brick, then place a full brick next it like normal. Do this on both ends of the wall, so that each side has a half brick and a full brick in place.\\n3-4. Mortar and place one full brick on top of your ends.\\nTo help you stay level, you build the ends of the wall up a course higher than you're working on, making it appear like there are staircases on the ends of the wall. You then fill in the bottom row, build the sides up a little higher, then continue until you reach the top.\\nRemember to use the guideline and your level together to make sure the bricks are even and at the right height.\\nYour gauging rods should help you place the end bricks, as they will line up right with the marks planted at the end of your wall.\\n3-5. Fill in the entire bottom row.\\nPlace roughly 1/2\\\" of mortar down, press the brick into place, check the straightness with the guideline and level, and wipe up any excess mortar. Then repeat until the second row is done.\\n3-6. Continue building your wall from the ends inward.\\nYou want to have the ends of your wall one course higher than the row you are currently working on. This is especially important if the wall has pillars on either end. With each row, the process is the same. However, remember to use half-bricks every other row to ensure that the joints in each row are not perfectly lined up.\\nMove the guideline.\\nApply mortar.\\nPress a brick into either end of the wall, using the guidelines and level to make sure they are at the right height.\\nDo the same thing one row above the one you're currently working on.\\nMeasure, mortar, and build the bottommost row, (infill the courses).\\nRepeat the process one row higher.\\n4. Finishing the Wall\\n4-1. Try unique brick patterns for the top of the wall.\\nDepending on what you built, you can finish your wall by turning or angling your bricks differently at any time. Popular options include:\\n\\n or standing the bricks up so that they are up straight, like soldiers at attention.\\n are when the shortest side of the brick points out. The top row of bricks is spun 90 degrees from the bottom one.\\n4-2. Fill in any missing patches of mortar along the wall.\\nUse your trowel to fill in any patches or gaps in the joints, making sure there is a nice, even amount of mortar holding your wall together. Wait roughly 45-60 minutes before continuing -- the mortar should be slightly hardened, but not set, before moving on.\\n4-3. Use a brick jointer to indent the mortar professionally.\\nBrick jointers are cheap little tools that help you get the professional, curved in joints on your wall. Firmly press the tool into the joints and run it down the mortar, trimming and polishing your wall.\\n4-4. Consider other jointing patterns for your wall.\\nA single brick width wall is easy to make, but not incredibly strong. More common is a double-brick wall, which can be easily adapted to your needs. Instead of alternating half bricks with full ones you simply need to alternate turning each brick on the ends, since 1 brick is as long as the width of two bricks. Every other row would begin with a brick that faces perpendicular to the direction of the wall, helping you keep the joints staggered.\\nTo help you remember where to place the bricks, think of how the wall looks when you're facing it. Every other row has a small, \\\"square\\\" brick, followed by the long bricks running parallel to the wall.\\n4-5. Add pillars to your design.\\nPillars are not incredibly difficult to add, but they do take some planning. They are basically squared \\\"mini-wall,\\\" designed so that half of middle bricks \\\"pokes out\\\" into the wall, connecting everything together. Once you've decided on your pillar design, make sure you build them up at least 1-2 rows higher than the courses in between. You need to build the pillars up a few rows, then fill in the wall between them, only getting to the top of the wall after you've already finished both pillars.\\nTips\\nKeep all tools and worksites clean. Wash tools frequently for easier use, but make sure they are dry before contacting the mortar.\\nThe first course height is not as important to get perfect because it can be fixed in the second and third courses.\\nIf you're building a wall against an existing wall, you still need gauging rods to get the height right. However, you can use the existing wall for help and support too.\\nWarnings\\nAlways wear safety goggles and gloves when cutting bricks and mixing mortar. Mortar mix is very corrosive and will chap the hands. Lightly rubbing petroleum jelly (Vaseline) into your hands will help, but make sure your hands are not greasy. Most liquid hand soaps have some oil in them and can help if you do not have any petroleum jelly but you will have to wash your hands more frequently to get the benefit.\\nWear hard hats, especially if someone is working above you.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A DIY brick wall is a budget-friendly and fun project. Whether you're looking to build a garden wall or just learn the fundamentals of bricklaying, we've got you covered. But while the basics of brick and mortar are easy to understand, achieving a professional quality wall takes planning and practice. That's why we're here to help you out with a step-by-step guide to building a brick wall.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select your bricks.\", \"描述\": \"There are many varieties of brick, but they all fall into three main categories:\\nSevere weathering (SW) bricks can withstand direct contact with the ground and moisture. Use these for foundations, patios, garden walls, and so on.\\nMedium weathering (MW) bricks can withstand freezing temperatures and above ground exterior work (not direct ground contact).\\nNo weathering (NW) bricks are for interior work only.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase the right amount of bricks.\", \"描述\": \"Bricks come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but the most important thing to remember is that you must adjust the size bricks you buy to account for the mortar. The most common brick, a modular brick, has \\\"specified\\\" dimensions 3⅝\\\" wide, 2¼\\\" tall, and 7⅝\\\" long (even if they are sold under nominal whole number measurements). They are typically used with mortar joints ½\\\" thick. Taking the mortar into account, each brick will take up 4⅛\\\" x 2¾\\\" x 8¼\\\" of space.\\nYou must add the mortar measurements when planning your wall. The combination measurement of brick and mortar is called the brick's \\\"nominal\\\" size.\\nThree rows of bricks stacked on top of each other will be 8\\\" tall.\\nFor example, to make a wall 2 ft tall x 6 ft long, calculate (24\\\" / 2¾\\\") for height and (72\\\" / 8¼\\\") for length, rounding up. In this case, you'll need 81 bricks, 9 rows tall x 9 bricks long.\\nPurchase at least five extra bricks to cut in half to begin new rows, plus an additional one brick per row in case of damaged bricks.\\nIf the ground is uneven or sloped, plan to install an additional one or two rows of bricks below the finished grade level to create a level base.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig out a trench for your foundation.\", \"描述\": \"You need to dig out a trench to seat the wall in, which you then make solid with a layer of concrete. This is often called a footer, or concrete foundation. Dig out a rectangular trench the length and width of your planned wall, roughly 1 foot deep.\\nIf your wall is more than 2 feet tall, you may need a deeper or wider trench. If the \\\"footer\\\" you install (as described below) is not strong enough to support the wall, the wall can sag or collapse. You can look up recommended dimensions online based on your soil's load bearing capacity and the size of your project.\\nMake sure the footer will have good water drainage away from the wall. Water pooling around the footer can cause wall failure.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drive level wooden stakes into your trench.\", \"描述\": \"Take several wooden stakes and drive them into the soil so that the tops of them are all level. Find the nominal height of your bricks (the height of the bricks plus 1/2\\\" for mortar), then drive the posts so that they are all this height below the top of the trench. Use a level to ensure that the tops of the stakes are completely level.\\nFor this example, with 2-2/3\\\" bricks, you would want 2-2/3\\\" of space between the top of your guide posts and the lip of the trench. This is so the first row of bricks is completely seated in your foundation.\\nSpace these posts 2-4 feet apart, depending on the length of your wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mix and pour concrete up to the top of the guideposts\", \"描述\": \"Fill in the trench up to the top of the stakes, leaving the space you measured for your bricks. The concrete needs 2-3 days to dry and set, so use this time to start gathering supplies and preparing your measurements.\\nUse a finishing trowel to make sure the top of the concrete is smooth and level before it starts drying.\\nYou can notch a \\\"keyway joint\\\" or \\\"V\\\" into the middle of the footer to help interlock it into the mortar bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make your guideposts.\", \"描述\": \"Also called gauging rods, these will ensure that your wall is level. Take 2 long wooden boards or posts and measure out each row of the brick wall, also known as a course. Mark the boards where each brick should be, including the mortar lines. Make sure you can drive the posts into the ground so that they can be freestanding. They should be as tall as your wall will be.\\nFor the 2x6ft wall, make a mark 2-1/4\\\" up from the bottom -- this is the height of the first brick. Make another mark 1/2\\\" above that, then continue this pattern up to the top of the wall, here 2 feet high. You want two of these, one for each side of the wall.\\nThese rods will be the rulers for your wall, and need to be identically lined up. Use a level and your tape measure to make sure the wall is immaculately planned.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies while the foundation dries.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need quite a bit of stuff to build your wall, all things considered. Once the foundation is set and your guideposts are built, it's time to get your building materials in order. You will need:\\nString and clamps/nails (to create guidelines)\\nMortar and a mixing bucket\\nLevel\\nBrick jointer\\nClub hammer\\nTape measure\\nWater\\nDry bristle brush\\nTarps or plywood to lay at base of wall\\nSmall torpedo level to check individual bricks\\n4 ft level\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building The First Row\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put down tarps or plywood to catch mortar.\", \"描述\": \"Lay down tarps or 2 ft wide plywood at the base of the wall to catch excess mortar as it falls. Keep this surface clean and avoid walking on it so you can reuse this mortar.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay your first row of bricks in the foundation for a dry run.\", \"描述\": \"Space them out appropriately, accounting for the mortar. Use your tape measure to make sure that they are the correct distance apart, and make sure that they fit in the trench snugly. Plan out the whole first row like this before you start any work.\\nIf you do not have bricklaying experience, read through this entire section first. You may need to practice a few techniques before you begin.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clamp a string on your first guideline.\", \"描述\": \"This is going to be for the second layer of bricks, as the first one will be buried in the trench. Run the string from one gauging rod to the other so that you have a straight, level line to work with.\\nDon't let the line sag. This must be kept \\\"true\\\" for a solid, level wall without major structural issues.\\nIt's really important that you ensure everything is symmetrical and perfectly squared for the first 2-3 courses so the rest of your brick wall turns out straight and even.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Soak the bricks and let dry.\", \"描述\": \"Soak the bricks in water, then lay them out to drip dry. The bricks should be thoroughly wet so the mortar bonds correctly. That said, wait until there is no more water running off the bricks, or the mortar may become too runny.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lay the first 1/2 inch of mortar along the base of the foundation.\", \"描述\": \"When in doubt, add a little bit extra mortar, as you will be pushing the brick down slightly. Use your trowel to lightly press into the mortar along the center line, leaving little intents. The mortar will look like little waves.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Press the first brick into the mortar.\", \"描述\": \"Push down slightly, then use your level to check that the brick even with the ground. To do so, press the level up against the side of the brick and then check it with your string sting line.\\nScrape any excess mortar down the line. You can use this mortar for the next bricks as long as it is free from contaminants.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Lay mortar down for the next 2-3 bricks.\", \"描述\": \"Once you're sure your first brick is set, lay down some mortar for the next few. You only want to work with 2-3 bricks worth of mortar at a time.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Butter the end of the next brick with mortar and press it into place.\", \"描述\": \"Take a slab of mortar and coat the end of the brick that will be pushed up against the first brick. You want a nice, even pat of mortar, just a little more than a 1/2\\\" worth. Press it into place against to the first brick and use your tape measure to make sure they are 1/2\\\" apart and joined by mortar.\\nThis is a very important step that ensures a strong bond between bricks. If you skip this and try to fill the mortar in between laid bricks, the joint will eventually fail. For best results, practice this several times on spare bricks before you move on to the real wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Press the brick lightly into the 1/2\\\" of mortar you've laid down so that it is level with the first brick.\", \"描述\": \"Use the level to ensure that the bricks are flush and at an even height, pushing on them lightly to make sure that they are perfect.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Scrape away any excess mortar as you work.\", \"描述\": \"You've pressed the bricks together, you'll notice that mortar starts to squeeze out as you work to get 1/2\\\" joints. Use your trowel to scrape the mortar away and down onto the tarp or plywood at the base of the wall. As long as that surface is kept clean, you can reuse the mortar for the next brick.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Keep adding bricks until the row is finished.\", \"描述\": \"Continue laying bricks down in this fashion -- mortar bottom and side, press in, check evenness with the level-- until your first row, or course, is complete.\\nYou can never check if the wall is level enough. You should be using your level and tape measure with almost every brick.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building Additional Rows\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Move your guideline up to the next marker.\", \"描述\": \"It should be the 1/2 mortar marker that joins your 1st and 2nd rows. For the second row it should already be in place, but you need to remember to move the line each time you move up a row so that you know the height you have to hit.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut a brick in half with a firm tap from the pointed end of a hammer.\", \"描述\": \"You can also use a bolster, which may make a cleaner cut. Still, bricks are meant to break cleanly. Tap on the point you want to cut the brick with the back of a hammer until you see a crack, then hit this spot hard, once, to cut the brick in half.\\nYou need to stagger your bricks, meaning that one brick in the second row sits on two bricks in the row below it. To do this, you'll start every other new row with half a brick.\\nYou don't need a perfectly clean, smooth cut. The rough edges will help hold the mortar.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Start the second row with 1/2 a brick on both ends.\", \"描述\": \"You do not want to make the next row right on top of the first one, so that the joints line up. Mortar and place the half brick, then place a full brick next it like normal. Do this on both ends of the wall, so that each side has a half brick and a full brick in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mortar and place one full brick on top of your ends.\", \"描述\": \"To help you stay level, you build the ends of the wall up a course higher than you're working on, making it appear like there are staircases on the ends of the wall. You then fill in the bottom row, build the sides up a little higher, then continue until you reach the top.\\nRemember to use the guideline and your level together to make sure the bricks are even and at the right height.\\nYour gauging rods should help you place the end bricks, as they will line up right with the marks planted at the end of your wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fill in the entire bottom row.\", \"描述\": \"Place roughly 1/2\\\" of mortar down, press the brick into place, check the straightness with the guideline and level, and wipe up any excess mortar. Then repeat until the second row is done.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Continue building your wall from the ends inward.\", \"描述\": \"You want to have the ends of your wall one course higher than the row you are currently working on. This is especially important if the wall has pillars on either end. With each row, the process is the same. However, remember to use half-bricks every other row to ensure that the joints in each row are not perfectly lined up.\\nMove the guideline.\\nApply mortar.\\nPress a brick into either end of the wall, using the guidelines and level to make sure they are at the right height.\\nDo the same thing one row above the one you're currently working on.\\nMeasure, mortar, and build the bottommost row, (infill the courses).\\nRepeat the process one row higher.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try unique brick patterns for the top of the wall.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on what you built, you can finish your wall by turning or angling your bricks differently at any time. Popular options include:\\n\\n or standing the bricks up so that they are up straight, like soldiers at attention.\\n are when the shortest side of the brick points out. The top row of bricks is spun 90 degrees from the bottom one.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill in any missing patches of mortar along the wall.\", \"描述\": \"Use your trowel to fill in any patches or gaps in the joints, making sure there is a nice, even amount of mortar holding your wall together. Wait roughly 45-60 minutes before continuing -- the mortar should be slightly hardened, but not set, before moving on.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a brick jointer to indent the mortar professionally.\", \"描述\": \"Brick jointers are cheap little tools that help you get the professional, curved in joints on your wall. Firmly press the tool into the joints and run it down the mortar, trimming and polishing your wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider other jointing patterns for your wall.\", \"描述\": \"A single brick width wall is easy to make, but not incredibly strong. More common is a double-brick wall, which can be easily adapted to your needs. Instead of alternating half bricks with full ones you simply need to alternate turning each brick on the ends, since 1 brick is as long as the width of two bricks. Every other row would begin with a brick that faces perpendicular to the direction of the wall, helping you keep the joints staggered.\\nTo help you remember where to place the bricks, think of how the wall looks when you're facing it. Every other row has a small, \\\"square\\\" brick, followed by the long bricks running parallel to the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add pillars to your design.\", \"描述\": \"Pillars are not incredibly difficult to add, but they do take some planning. They are basically squared \\\"mini-wall,\\\" designed so that half of middle bricks \\\"pokes out\\\" into the wall, connecting everything together. Once you've decided on your pillar design, make sure you build them up at least 1-2 rows higher than the courses in between. You need to build the pillars up a few rows, then fill in the wall between them, only getting to the top of the wall after you've already finished both pillars.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Keep all tools and worksites clean. Wash tools frequently for easier use, but make sure they are dry before contacting the mortar.\\n\", \"The first course height is not as important to get perfect because it can be fixed in the second and third courses.\\n\", \"If you're building a wall against an existing wall, you still need gauging rods to get the height right. However, you can use the existing wall for help and support too.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always wear safety goggles and gloves when cutting bricks and mixing mortar. Mortar mix is very corrosive and will chap the hands. Lightly rubbing petroleum jelly (Vaseline) into your hands will help, but make sure your hands are not greasy. Most liquid hand soaps have some oil in them and can help if you do not have any petroleum jelly but you will have to wash your hands more frequently to get the benefit.\\n\", \"Wear hard hats, especially if someone is working above you.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,242 |
How to Build a Bridge with Popsicle Sticks
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1. Planning out Your Bridge
1-1. Determine the length of your bridge.
You should consider how long you want to make your bridge before you even go shopping for supplies. There are multiple different sizes of popsicle stick that will be available at your local grocery or craft store. You may want to:
Lay out a yardstick on your work space.
Note the approximate length of your bridge.
Lay your yardstick crosswise to note the width of your bridge.
Estimate the amount of popsicle sticks based on these dimensions, and the size of popsicle stick you decide on using.
1-2. Gather your supplies.
Your popsicle bridge building supplies can be purchased at a local grocery store, general retailer, or craft store. The kind of popsicle stick you decide on using will depend on the vision you have for your bridge, but be sure you purchase a goodly amount so you don't run out mid-building. Including your sticks, you'll also need:
Popsicle sticks
Hot glue gun (and glue)
Large piece of cardboard or construction paper
Paper (for designing)
Pencil
Scissors or shears (for cutting popsicle sticks)
Yardstick or ruler
1-3. Ready your work space for action.
Place a piece of cardboard or construction paper on a table or any other type of smooth, flat, level surface. Make sure that the size of your work space is large enough to accommodate the bridge you will be constructing by measuring out its rough dimensions against the area available on your work space.
1-4. Decide on the kind of bridge you will make.
There are several different kinds of bridge you can decide between, including suspension bridges, draw bridges, and truss bridges. Since a truss bridge uses triangles in its frame to support and strengthen its structural integrity, it is ideal for a popsicle stick bridge.
For the purposes of providing a guided example, the following model bridge will be built following the classic Warren truss bridge structure.
1-5. Imagine a blueprint for your bridge.
A blueprint is a drawing that will serve as a plan for your design. Truss bridges can varying degrees of complexity, and you should investigate a few designs on your own before coming up with your design. Generally, a truss bridge has:
Crosswise floor beams and struts.
A deck, that forms the walkway or road of the bridge.
Longways laying stringer beams beneath the deck.
An external frame, composed of squares divided into triangles for better integrity.
Cross bracing forming an X along the top sections of the bridge.
Sway bracing beneath the top crosswise struts.
1-6. Draw your blueprint.
Now that you have a general idea of the structure you're trying to build, as well as the tried and true essential parts of a truss bridge, you're ready to use your imagination. Take some time to sketch out your design. Don't worry too much about being true to life; your blueprint is a plan, not a perfect representation.
2. Constructing the Beams of the Truss
2-1. Plan out your truss beam layout in finer detail.
Allow your general blueprint to guide you, but now you have to get down to arranging your popsicle sticks for actual construction. The trusses are the four beams that will run the length of the top and bottom of your bridge. Later, you'll add triangles to these for improved support. To lay out your truss:
Lay out four rows of popsicle sticks with each row being three sticks wide. Each row should be equal in length.
Cut four popsicle sticks in half. Place each of the halved popsicle sticks at both ends of each of the truss beams, in the middle position of the three-wide popsicle sticks.
The component three-wide popsicle sticks of each truss will be glued together to form a truss three sticks thick.
2-2. Glue your truss beams together.
Take the component popsicle sticks of each of your four rows and, remembering to keep the popsicle sticks even, hot glue your truss beam together. This will create four, three-stick-thick truss beams.
Hot glue dries very quickly! For best results, press and/or clamp your popsicle sticks together as soon as the glue has been applied.
Press the popsicle sticks together and apply firm pressure so your trusses are securely glued.
2-3. Lay out your trusses and allow the glue to set for a short while.
If you are using hot glue, this won't take long, but by allowing the glue to fully dry, you can prevent yourself (or others) from knocking loose a popsicle stick from your truss. Other kinds of glue, like wood glue or general purpose glue, should be allowed to rest 10 to 15 minutes.
If, when you touch your glued truss, the bond feels weak, tacky, or loose, allow the glue to dry for another 15 minutes.
2-4. Measure your cross supports for your truss.
Use your pencil and yardstick or ruler to measure out regular intervals where you will support and connect your trusses with cross bracing popsicle sticks. For the purposes of this model, you will be using two sticks side by side in a W pattern.
Another way to think of this: each line of the W pattern that will connect two trusses together represents two popsicle sticks laid side by side.
The more bracing you have, the stronger your bridge will be. However, too many popsicle sticks might make it difficult to see anything move across the deck of your bridge.
2-5. Unite the beams of your trusses.
With the W pattern marked out, you should be able to determine how many popsicle sticks you will need. Count out the appropriate number to have at the ready, and:
Position your popsicle sticks along the truss beams before gluing to verify the final structure of the wall truss.
Use hot glue, or another suitable glue, to adhere the popsicle stick cross braces to the truss beams.
Wait sufficient time until the glue you are using sets.
3. Constructing the Deck
3-1. Lay out the deck of your bridge.
Set your two trusses flat on your workspace so that each lay parallel. Then, take your popsicle sticks, laying several crosswise between each of your trusses. These will form the deck, or the road, that runs the length of your bridge between the truss walls. Lay out popsicle sticks until your deck stretches the distance of the trusses.
The distance between your crosswise popsicle stick deck will determine the width of your bridge deck.
Be sure that all of your popsicle sticks are even, otherwise the deck leading over your bridge will look irregular.
3-2. Anchor your deck with staggered lengthwise supports.
Larger sized popsicle provide more stability, but smaller popsicle sticks should work just fine if you don't have any larger ones on hand. Lay your sticks in a staggered formation lengthwise to join your deck into one, continuous piece.
Once your deck supports are in position, use your hot glue gun or some other suitable glue to fasten your supports in place.
If you are using wood glue or general purpose glue, allow some time for the glue to dry before handling the deck.
3-3. Measure for cradle supports for your deck and truss joiners.
Take your yardstick or ruler and measure the length of your deck. You'll need to created union braces for your deck to rest upon. These will also connect the walls of your trusses crosswise together. Take the measure of your deck and the thickness of either truss.
3-4. Cut your cradle supports and truss joiners.
If you have popsicle sticks of assorted sizes, you may be able to use this, so long as it is as long or longer than the total width of your deck and both trusses. If you are using a yardstick or ruler and your deck/truss measurements, you'll need to:
Multiply the width of your truss measurement by two to account for the width of both trusses and then add the width of the deck.
Cut three or four popsicle sticks to this length.
If your popsicle sticks are too short, make a longer one. Cut two sticks and, with glue, join each by attaching another stick to the bottom for support.
4. Putting It All Together
4-1. Unite the truss walls.
You may want to consider having a friend help you for this part of the bridge assembly, or you might use books to lean your trusses up against to make gluing more manageable. You should:
Secure the first two deck cradle beams within the cross braces of the trusses at both ends of the bridge.
Use your glue to attach your cradle beams on the truss beam. Hold the glue firmly until it sets and is well bonded to the truss.
4-2. Lay additional deck support beams as needed.
The more braces you add and the more triangles you create with the frame of your bridge, the stronger it will be. Use your glue to add additional deck cradle beams to support the truss walls.
4-3. Attach your deck, if desired.
You may want to leave your deck loose, so that you can show off every aspect of your bridge's construction. However, if you want the deck connected to the cradle beams, simply add glue to the cradle beams and lay your deck into place.
Try to move quickly during this step, especially if using hot glue. It would be unfortunate if the glue dried before you were able to lay the deck into place.
4-4. Add upper support beams.
If you have long popsicle sticks, you can simply lay these across the top of the struts and then glue each into place. However, if your popsicle sticks aren't long enough, you may make longer ones. Cut a few and join these into a longer stick using a stick glued to the bottom as support.
Equal distance spacing will give the appearance of the real thing.
Tips
For the construction of this bridge, there were two sizes of popsicle sticks used. However, you should be able to accomplish this design even with only one size of popsicle stick.
If you have difficulty getting your glue to set firmly, you might consider using binder clips to maintain pressure between two glued popsicle sticks until the glue dries.
When layering sticks together, a process sometimes called "lamination," you can achieve better strength by staggering your popsicle sticks.
Warnings
Always exercise caution when operating a hot glue gun. Improper handling can result in you getting burned. Be very careful and be prepared.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning out Your Bridge\\n1-1. Determine the length of your bridge.\\nYou should consider how long you want to make your bridge before you even go shopping for supplies. There are multiple different sizes of popsicle stick that will be available at your local grocery or craft store. You may want to:\\nLay out a yardstick on your work space.\\nNote the approximate length of your bridge.\\nLay your yardstick crosswise to note the width of your bridge.\\nEstimate the amount of popsicle sticks based on these dimensions, and the size of popsicle stick you decide on using.\\n1-2. Gather your supplies.\\nYour popsicle bridge building supplies can be purchased at a local grocery store, general retailer, or craft store. The kind of popsicle stick you decide on using will depend on the vision you have for your bridge, but be sure you purchase a goodly amount so you don't run out mid-building. Including your sticks, you'll also need:\\nPopsicle sticks\\nHot glue gun (and glue)\\nLarge piece of cardboard or construction paper\\nPaper (for designing)\\nPencil\\nScissors or shears (for cutting popsicle sticks)\\nYardstick or ruler\\n1-3. Ready your work space for action.\\nPlace a piece of cardboard or construction paper on a table or any other type of smooth, flat, level surface. Make sure that the size of your work space is large enough to accommodate the bridge you will be constructing by measuring out its rough dimensions against the area available on your work space.\\n1-4. Decide on the kind of bridge you will make.\\nThere are several different kinds of bridge you can decide between, including suspension bridges, draw bridges, and truss bridges. Since a truss bridge uses triangles in its frame to support and strengthen its structural integrity, it is ideal for a popsicle stick bridge.\\nFor the purposes of providing a guided example, the following model bridge will be built following the classic Warren truss bridge structure.\\n1-5. Imagine a blueprint for your bridge.\\nA blueprint is a drawing that will serve as a plan for your design. Truss bridges can varying degrees of complexity, and you should investigate a few designs on your own before coming up with your design. Generally, a truss bridge has:\\nCrosswise floor beams and struts.\\nA deck, that forms the walkway or road of the bridge.\\nLongways laying stringer beams beneath the deck.\\nAn external frame, composed of squares divided into triangles for better integrity.\\nCross bracing forming an X along the top sections of the bridge.\\nSway bracing beneath the top crosswise struts.\\n1-6. Draw your blueprint.\\nNow that you have a general idea of the structure you're trying to build, as well as the tried and true essential parts of a truss bridge, you're ready to use your imagination. Take some time to sketch out your design. Don't worry too much about being true to life; your blueprint is a plan, not a perfect representation.\\n2. Constructing the Beams of the Truss\\n2-1. Plan out your truss beam layout in finer detail.\\nAllow your general blueprint to guide you, but now you have to get down to arranging your popsicle sticks for actual construction. The trusses are the four beams that will run the length of the top and bottom of your bridge. Later, you'll add triangles to these for improved support. To lay out your truss:\\nLay out four rows of popsicle sticks with each row being three sticks wide. Each row should be equal in length.\\nCut four popsicle sticks in half. Place each of the halved popsicle sticks at both ends of each of the truss beams, in the middle position of the three-wide popsicle sticks.\\nThe component three-wide popsicle sticks of each truss will be glued together to form a truss three sticks thick.\\n2-2. Glue your truss beams together.\\nTake the component popsicle sticks of each of your four rows and, remembering to keep the popsicle sticks even, hot glue your truss beam together. This will create four, three-stick-thick truss beams.\\nHot glue dries very quickly! For best results, press and/or clamp your popsicle sticks together as soon as the glue has been applied.\\nPress the popsicle sticks together and apply firm pressure so your trusses are securely glued.\\n2-3. Lay out your trusses and allow the glue to set for a short while.\\nIf you are using hot glue, this won't take long, but by allowing the glue to fully dry, you can prevent yourself (or others) from knocking loose a popsicle stick from your truss. Other kinds of glue, like wood glue or general purpose glue, should be allowed to rest 10 to 15 minutes.\\nIf, when you touch your glued truss, the bond feels weak, tacky, or loose, allow the glue to dry for another 15 minutes.\\n2-4. Measure your cross supports for your truss.\\nUse your pencil and yardstick or ruler to measure out regular intervals where you will support and connect your trusses with cross bracing popsicle sticks. For the purposes of this model, you will be using two sticks side by side in a W pattern.\\nAnother way to think of this: each line of the W pattern that will connect two trusses together represents two popsicle sticks laid side by side.\\nThe more bracing you have, the stronger your bridge will be. However, too many popsicle sticks might make it difficult to see anything move across the deck of your bridge.\\n2-5. Unite the beams of your trusses.\\nWith the W pattern marked out, you should be able to determine how many popsicle sticks you will need. Count out the appropriate number to have at the ready, and:\\nPosition your popsicle sticks along the truss beams before gluing to verify the final structure of the wall truss.\\nUse hot glue, or another suitable glue, to adhere the popsicle stick cross braces to the truss beams.\\nWait sufficient time until the glue you are using sets.\\n3. Constructing the Deck\\n3-1. Lay out the deck of your bridge.\\nSet your two trusses flat on your workspace so that each lay parallel. Then, take your popsicle sticks, laying several crosswise between each of your trusses. These will form the deck, or the road, that runs the length of your bridge between the truss walls. Lay out popsicle sticks until your deck stretches the distance of the trusses.\\nThe distance between your crosswise popsicle stick deck will determine the width of your bridge deck.\\nBe sure that all of your popsicle sticks are even, otherwise the deck leading over your bridge will look irregular.\\n3-2. Anchor your deck with staggered lengthwise supports.\\nLarger sized popsicle provide more stability, but smaller popsicle sticks should work just fine if you don't have any larger ones on hand. Lay your sticks in a staggered formation lengthwise to join your deck into one, continuous piece.\\nOnce your deck supports are in position, use your hot glue gun or some other suitable glue to fasten your supports in place.\\nIf you are using wood glue or general purpose glue, allow some time for the glue to dry before handling the deck.\\n3-3. Measure for cradle supports for your deck and truss joiners.\\nTake your yardstick or ruler and measure the length of your deck. You'll need to created union braces for your deck to rest upon. These will also connect the walls of your trusses crosswise together. Take the measure of your deck and the thickness of either truss.\\n3-4. Cut your cradle supports and truss joiners.\\nIf you have popsicle sticks of assorted sizes, you may be able to use this, so long as it is as long or longer than the total width of your deck and both trusses. If you are using a yardstick or ruler and your deck/truss measurements, you'll need to:\\nMultiply the width of your truss measurement by two to account for the width of both trusses and then add the width of the deck.\\nCut three or four popsicle sticks to this length.\\nIf your popsicle sticks are too short, make a longer one. Cut two sticks and, with glue, join each by attaching another stick to the bottom for support.\\n4. Putting It All Together\\n4-1. Unite the truss walls.\\nYou may want to consider having a friend help you for this part of the bridge assembly, or you might use books to lean your trusses up against to make gluing more manageable. You should:\\nSecure the first two deck cradle beams within the cross braces of the trusses at both ends of the bridge.\\nUse your glue to attach your cradle beams on the truss beam. Hold the glue firmly until it sets and is well bonded to the truss.\\n4-2. Lay additional deck support beams as needed.\\nThe more braces you add and the more triangles you create with the frame of your bridge, the stronger it will be. Use your glue to add additional deck cradle beams to support the truss walls.\\n4-3. Attach your deck, if desired.\\nYou may want to leave your deck loose, so that you can show off every aspect of your bridge's construction. However, if you want the deck connected to the cradle beams, simply add glue to the cradle beams and lay your deck into place.\\nTry to move quickly during this step, especially if using hot glue. It would be unfortunate if the glue dried before you were able to lay the deck into place.\\n4-4. Add upper support beams.\\nIf you have long popsicle sticks, you can simply lay these across the top of the struts and then glue each into place. However, if your popsicle sticks aren't long enough, you may make longer ones. Cut a few and join these into a longer stick using a stick glued to the bottom as support.\\nEqual distance spacing will give the appearance of the real thing.\\nTips\\nFor the construction of this bridge, there were two sizes of popsicle sticks used. However, you should be able to accomplish this design even with only one size of popsicle stick.\\nIf you have difficulty getting your glue to set firmly, you might consider using binder clips to maintain pressure between two glued popsicle sticks until the glue dries.\\nWhen layering sticks together, a process sometimes called \\\"lamination,\\\" you can achieve better strength by staggering your popsicle sticks.\\nWarnings\\nAlways exercise caution when operating a hot glue gun. Improper handling can result in you getting burned. Be very careful and be prepared.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Bridges across the globe make up some of the most beautiful landmarks on this Earth. However, it would be quite impossible to bring them to the kitchen table. Luckily, with a few bridge building techniques, a few popsicle sticks, a creative mind, and a few other household items, you can now build a glorious bridge of your very own.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning out Your Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the length of your bridge.\", \"描述\": \"You should consider how long you want to make your bridge before you even go shopping for supplies. There are multiple different sizes of popsicle stick that will be available at your local grocery or craft store. You may want to:\\nLay out a yardstick on your work space.\\nNote the approximate length of your bridge.\\nLay your yardstick crosswise to note the width of your bridge.\\nEstimate the amount of popsicle sticks based on these dimensions, and the size of popsicle stick you decide on using.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"Your popsicle bridge building supplies can be purchased at a local grocery store, general retailer, or craft store. The kind of popsicle stick you decide on using will depend on the vision you have for your bridge, but be sure you purchase a goodly amount so you don't run out mid-building. Including your sticks, you'll also need:\\nPopsicle sticks\\nHot glue gun (and glue)\\nLarge piece of cardboard or construction paper\\nPaper (for designing)\\nPencil\\nScissors or shears (for cutting popsicle sticks)\\nYardstick or ruler\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ready your work space for action.\", \"描述\": \"Place a piece of cardboard or construction paper on a table or any other type of smooth, flat, level surface. Make sure that the size of your work space is large enough to accommodate the bridge you will be constructing by measuring out its rough dimensions against the area available on your work space.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decide on the kind of bridge you will make.\", \"描述\": \"There are several different kinds of bridge you can decide between, including suspension bridges, draw bridges, and truss bridges. Since a truss bridge uses triangles in its frame to support and strengthen its structural integrity, it is ideal for a popsicle stick bridge.\\nFor the purposes of providing a guided example, the following model bridge will be built following the classic Warren truss bridge structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Imagine a blueprint for your bridge.\", \"描述\": \"A blueprint is a drawing that will serve as a plan for your design. Truss bridges can varying degrees of complexity, and you should investigate a few designs on your own before coming up with your design. Generally, a truss bridge has:\\nCrosswise floor beams and struts.\\nA deck, that forms the walkway or road of the bridge.\\nLongways laying stringer beams beneath the deck.\\nAn external frame, composed of squares divided into triangles for better integrity.\\nCross bracing forming an X along the top sections of the bridge.\\nSway bracing beneath the top crosswise struts.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Draw your blueprint.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have a general idea of the structure you're trying to build, as well as the tried and true essential parts of a truss bridge, you're ready to use your imagination. Take some time to sketch out your design. Don't worry too much about being true to life; your blueprint is a plan, not a perfect representation.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Beams of the Truss\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan out your truss beam layout in finer detail.\", \"描述\": \"Allow your general blueprint to guide you, but now you have to get down to arranging your popsicle sticks for actual construction. The trusses are the four beams that will run the length of the top and bottom of your bridge. Later, you'll add triangles to these for improved support. To lay out your truss:\\nLay out four rows of popsicle sticks with each row being three sticks wide. Each row should be equal in length.\\nCut four popsicle sticks in half. Place each of the halved popsicle sticks at both ends of each of the truss beams, in the middle position of the three-wide popsicle sticks.\\nThe component three-wide popsicle sticks of each truss will be glued together to form a truss three sticks thick.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Glue your truss beams together.\", \"描述\": \"Take the component popsicle sticks of each of your four rows and, remembering to keep the popsicle sticks even, hot glue your truss beam together. This will create four, three-stick-thick truss beams.\\nHot glue dries very quickly! For best results, press and/or clamp your popsicle sticks together as soon as the glue has been applied.\\nPress the popsicle sticks together and apply firm pressure so your trusses are securely glued.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay out your trusses and allow the glue to set for a short while.\", \"描述\": \"If you are using hot glue, this won't take long, but by allowing the glue to fully dry, you can prevent yourself (or others) from knocking loose a popsicle stick from your truss. Other kinds of glue, like wood glue or general purpose glue, should be allowed to rest 10 to 15 minutes.\\nIf, when you touch your glued truss, the bond feels weak, tacky, or loose, allow the glue to dry for another 15 minutes.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure your cross supports for your truss.\", \"描述\": \"Use your pencil and yardstick or ruler to measure out regular intervals where you will support and connect your trusses with cross bracing popsicle sticks. For the purposes of this model, you will be using two sticks side by side in a W pattern.\\nAnother way to think of this: each line of the W pattern that will connect two trusses together represents two popsicle sticks laid side by side.\\nThe more bracing you have, the stronger your bridge will be. However, too many popsicle sticks might make it difficult to see anything move across the deck of your bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Unite the beams of your trusses.\", \"描述\": \"With the W pattern marked out, you should be able to determine how many popsicle sticks you will need. Count out the appropriate number to have at the ready, and:\\nPosition your popsicle sticks along the truss beams before gluing to verify the final structure of the wall truss.\\nUse hot glue, or another suitable glue, to adhere the popsicle stick cross braces to the truss beams.\\nWait sufficient time until the glue you are using sets.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Deck\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out the deck of your bridge.\", \"描述\": \"Set your two trusses flat on your workspace so that each lay parallel. Then, take your popsicle sticks, laying several crosswise between each of your trusses. These will form the deck, or the road, that runs the length of your bridge between the truss walls. Lay out popsicle sticks until your deck stretches the distance of the trusses.\\nThe distance between your crosswise popsicle stick deck will determine the width of your bridge deck.\\nBe sure that all of your popsicle sticks are even, otherwise the deck leading over your bridge will look irregular.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Anchor your deck with staggered lengthwise supports.\", \"描述\": \"Larger sized popsicle provide more stability, but smaller popsicle sticks should work just fine if you don't have any larger ones on hand. Lay your sticks in a staggered formation lengthwise to join your deck into one, continuous piece.\\nOnce your deck supports are in position, use your hot glue gun or some other suitable glue to fasten your supports in place.\\nIf you are using wood glue or general purpose glue, allow some time for the glue to dry before handling the deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure for cradle supports for your deck and truss joiners.\", \"描述\": \"Take your yardstick or ruler and measure the length of your deck. You'll need to created union braces for your deck to rest upon. These will also connect the walls of your trusses crosswise together. Take the measure of your deck and the thickness of either truss.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut your cradle supports and truss joiners.\", \"描述\": \"If you have popsicle sticks of assorted sizes, you may be able to use this, so long as it is as long or longer than the total width of your deck and both trusses. If you are using a yardstick or ruler and your deck/truss measurements, you'll need to:\\nMultiply the width of your truss measurement by two to account for the width of both trusses and then add the width of the deck.\\nCut three or four popsicle sticks to this length.\\nIf your popsicle sticks are too short, make a longer one. Cut two sticks and, with glue, join each by attaching another stick to the bottom for support.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Putting It All Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Unite the truss walls.\", \"描述\": \"You may want to consider having a friend help you for this part of the bridge assembly, or you might use books to lean your trusses up against to make gluing more manageable. You should:\\nSecure the first two deck cradle beams within the cross braces of the trusses at both ends of the bridge.\\nUse your glue to attach your cradle beams on the truss beam. Hold the glue firmly until it sets and is well bonded to the truss.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay additional deck support beams as needed.\", \"描述\": \"The more braces you add and the more triangles you create with the frame of your bridge, the stronger it will be. Use your glue to add additional deck cradle beams to support the truss walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach your deck, if desired.\", \"描述\": \"You may want to leave your deck loose, so that you can show off every aspect of your bridge's construction. However, if you want the deck connected to the cradle beams, simply add glue to the cradle beams and lay your deck into place.\\nTry to move quickly during this step, especially if using hot glue. It would be unfortunate if the glue dried before you were able to lay the deck into place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add upper support beams.\", \"描述\": \"If you have long popsicle sticks, you can simply lay these across the top of the struts and then glue each into place. However, if your popsicle sticks aren't long enough, you may make longer ones. Cut a few and join these into a longer stick using a stick glued to the bottom as support.\\nEqual distance spacing will give the appearance of the real thing.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"For the construction of this bridge, there were two sizes of popsicle sticks used. However, you should be able to accomplish this design even with only one size of popsicle stick.\\n\", \"If you have difficulty getting your glue to set firmly, you might consider using binder clips to maintain pressure between two glued popsicle sticks until the glue dries.\\n\", \"When layering sticks together, a process sometimes called \\\"lamination,\\\" you can achieve better strength by staggering your popsicle sticks.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always exercise caution when operating a hot glue gun. Improper handling can result in you getting burned. Be very careful and be prepared.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,243 |
How to Build a Building
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1. Planning a Successful Build
1-1. Identify your build site.
Make sure to choose a location that is on your property and meets your specific needs. A garage needs street access, but a workshop may not. Consider what purpose the building will serve, what utilities will need to be run to it, your construction limitations, and your budget when finding a spot.
Think about how you’ll get the concrete and lumber to your build site and if it needs vehicle access.
The more level the site is, the cheaper and easier it will be to prepare for building.
1-2. Consider neighbors, sunlight, and property lines when planning the structure.
If your building will have windows, you may want to orient them to get sun in the mornings or afternoons. Position the main doorway on the side of the building you’ll commonly approach it from. Develop a plan in your head for how you want the building to face and where entrances, exits, and walkways may need to be.
If your structure will be for a business, you may want the door and large windows facing the street.
If you are building a garage, the garage bay door needs to be oriented toward the street as well.
If you are building a workshop or out-building, you may want to front door pointed at the back door of your house, since that’s where you’ll be approaching it from.
1-3. Hire an architect or purchase a building plan.
Designing a building is a complex process that is best left to the professionals. Depending on the type of building you want, you may be able to purchase off-the-shelf construction plans (for garages, outbuildings, and even houses). However, for a specialized project, you should enlist the services of an architect to ensure your building is designed to be structurally sound and within local codes.
There are websites that offer free construction plans for sheds and small structures, as well as others that sell plans for more complex buildings.
Many architects can create plans for buildings ranging from simple to complex, with pricing that usually matches complexity.
Pre-fabricated structures like sheds and even garages come with the plans and supplies you need.
1-4. Secure the appropriate permits.
There are a number of different permits you may potentially need to secure before you start construction, depending on where you live, the size of the building, and what the building will be used for. Contact your local town or city government office to inquire about building permits and how to go about getting the ones you need.
Many town and city governments have websites devoted to helping you locate and apply for the correct permits.
Do not begin construction without securing the necessary permits, or you may be subject to legal penalties or fines.
1-5. Use the plans to determine what work you can do yourself.
Once you have a building plan, you can begin to break the project down into a sort of to-do list. You may want to do all of it yourself, or you may need to outsource some of the work to local contractors. Decide what you can and can’t do on your own beforehand so you can set up your budget. If need be, you can get a construction loan to help pay outside work.
The job will require building various types of framing with wood, starting with a frame for the foundation and continuing through the walls and roof.
You will also need to pour a large amount of concrete for the structure’s foundation, which may require the use of a concrete delivery service.
Wiring, HVAC, and plumbing may be concerns depending on the size and use of your building.
2. Laying the Foundation
2-1. Level the build site
This process may be simple or difficult and expensive, depending on the site you’ve chosen. For small buildings, you may be able to level the site using a shovel and a tamp. However, for large buildings, you may need to use heavy machinery like a bulldozer.
Drive stakes into the ground at all four corners of the build site, then tie a string from post to post, using a level to ensure they are perfectly straight. From there, measure the distance from the string to the ground in different spots to see how high or low they are compared to the rest. Then add or remove dirt as necessary.
Once the surface is even, tamp it down so it’s firm and flat.
2-2. Pour the concrete foundation
First, use the stakes you laid out to guide you as you install the right size lumber for your specific foundation. Different structures will have different depth requirements for the concrete, so adhere to the specifications on your building plan. Once the forms are complete, either pour the concrete yourself or hire a concrete delivery service to pour it for you.
You can purchase concrete by the bag and mix it yourself, but for larger applications, you may want to have a concrete delivery service pour pre-mixed concrete straight into your forms from the truck.
2-3. Add rebar or mesh to the concrete for strength.
Adding the additional steel for support will strengthen the building’s foundation and reduce the chances of cracking or damage. Typically either number 4 rebar on 12 inch (30.5 cm) centers or 6X6 welded wire reinforcing wire fabric are your best options.
You can buy either mesh or rebar at your local hardware store.
Insert the steel reinforcement about halfway through your pour so it will have concrete above and below it.
2-4. Finish pouring the concrete and let it set for 24 hours.
After the metal reinforcement is set, fill the wood forms the rest of the way with concrete and then brush off any excess to ensure the surface is perfectly flat.
Allow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before doing any more work on the structure.
2-5. Have the site inspected if applicable.
Depending on where you’re doing the construction, you may now need to have an inspector evaluate your foundation before you can set about framing the walls. If your local ordinances require an inspection, have them come once the concrete has cured.
You can find out what inspections are necessary and how to schedule them on your local town or city government website or at City Hall.
Failing to schedule mandatory inspections could result in fines. The inspections are intended to ensure your structure is being built safely.
3. Constructing a Shell
3-1. Contact your local lumber yard to help with your materials list.
Instead of purchasing the wood from your local hardware store (which may not be feasible depending on the size of your project), contact your local lumber yard and use the architectural plans to place a large order of all the wood you’ll need. Many lumber yards will even deliver the order to you.
Ordering large amounts of wood at once will reduce the overall cost.
Lumber yards can often help you determine exactly what you need based on your plans thanks to their experience with construction firms.
3-2. Frame the exterior walls
On smaller buildings, build the wall first, then have friends help you raise the wall and secure it in place. On larger buildings, however, you’ll need to build the wall frames directly onto the foundation. The studs in your exterior walls should be 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm), but exterior walls on larger structures should be 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 6 inches (15 cm).
Follow the plans for your building specifically when building and placing the wall frames.
Pay close attention to detail while building the walls. One incorrect measurement could result in an uneven wall that could create a gap between the top of the wall and the roof.
3-3. Add temporary wall bracing for support.
Until all of the walls are completed and the roof is installed overhead, you can keep the walls standing properly by screwing temporary beams of wood into the walls that connect them to one another. These beams should be removed once you install the roof trusses.
Use screws rather than nails so it’s easy to unscrew the braces when the structure is stable.
This step is often only necessary until the full frame is complete.
3-4. Install the roof trusses
You may purchase completed trusses from the lumber supply company, or you may prefer making them yourself. Roof trusses can be complex and time-consuming, so purchasing completed ones is often preferred. Attach them to the tops of the frame walls, lining up the trusses with the studs.
Larger building may utilize a different roof framing, but trusses are the most common for small structures.
3-5. Attach plywood to the exterior of the wall frames.
Use nails to secure the plywood to the outside of the framed walls. Cut spaces in the plywood for any window or door frames. This plywood will serve as the beginning of the exterior walls.
Do not install plywood on the interior side of the walls.
Nail the plywood directly into the studs to secure them in place.
3-6. Install the roof decking.
You can start by nailing plywood into place on the roof to be covered and then shingled, or you may choose to use single piece metal roofing for buildings like sheds or garages. Nail or screw the decking of your choice into place along the roof trusses.
Once done, the building will look like a nearly completed structure, but there’s still quite a bit left to do.
3-7. Call in the inspectors.
At this stage, you may need to have the building inspected again to ensure your structure is up to code. Refer to local ordinances to know for sure what inspections your specific type of building is subject to.
The inspectors will be looking at building materials, stud spacing and signs of damage.
4. Finishing the Structure
4-1. Run the wiring, HVAC, and plumbing through the walls.
Traditionally speaking, plumbing should be done first, followed by HVAC and electrical wiring, but in practice, elements of each project will overlap. These jobs may be best left to plumbers and electricians, as they require specific skills and expertise.
Have contractors tasked with each job work together to coordinate the installations.
Ensure there is no electricity flowing to the structure when working on its wiring.
4-2. Install permanent fixtures that may affect wall placement, like bathtubs.
Before the interior walls are finished, move large fixtures into place and position them where they will be once the building is complete.
It’s easier to move large things into place before all the walls are finished.
You’ll need to know the positioning of things like bathtubs and toilets when installing interior walls.
4-3. Put in the insulation if applicable.
Sheds and some garages are often not insulated, but if your building will be, there are a number of options to choose from. Blanket insulation is the most common for new construction and can be unrolled between the studs of the walls and stapled into place.
You could also wait until the interior walls are in place and then add loose-fill or blown-in insulation into the gap between the exterior and interior walls.
Spray foam insulation and fiberglass insulation are alternatives.
Always wear eye protection, a particulate mask, and gloves when working with fiberglass insulation.
4-4. Staple or nail paper roofing felt to the roof if needed.
If you used plywood on your roof, unroll paper roofing felt over the plywood and secure it in place. This will create a sealed barrier beneath the roofing shingles you apply.
Cut any excess paper roofing felt off with a razor blade.
Make sure to staple or nail the roofing felt in place all along the perimeter to avoid it blowing up and off while you work.
4-5. Nail down overlapping rows of shingles
Start by laying a row of shingles along the roof’s bottom edge. Nail each shingle into place 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the edge and then overlap the nail with the next shingle. Then lay a second row with 6 inches (17 centimeters) behind the first one and continue until the entire roof is covered.
Use ridge shingles on the corner created by the top point of the roof.
4-6. Hang drywall
Measure and cut each piece of drywall, then have a friend help to put it in place. Screw the drywall into the wall studs to secure it. Then repeat that process to hang the ceiling drywall as well. Once all the drywall is in place, tape and mud it to give the drywall a smooth, paintable finish.
Once the drywall is done, you can paint the interior walls.
You may also choose to cover the drywall with wallpaper.
4-7. Apply overlapped siding
Overlapping siding works just like roof shingles to protect the exterior wall of your building. Start by installing a starter strip and corner posts using nails, then cut and install layers of siding to the walls starting at the bottom.
Overlap adjoining panels of siding to prevent moisture from getting in.
Tips
You’ll usually need to have inspections done after laying the concrete foundation, installing the floors, and after putting up the external walls and roof. Other inspections may be specified by local laws and regulations.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning a Successful Build\\n1-1. Identify your build site.\\nMake sure to choose a location that is on your property and meets your specific needs. A garage needs street access, but a workshop may not. Consider what purpose the building will serve, what utilities will need to be run to it, your construction limitations, and your budget when finding a spot.\\nThink about how you’ll get the concrete and lumber to your build site and if it needs vehicle access.\\nThe more level the site is, the cheaper and easier it will be to prepare for building.\\n1-2. Consider neighbors, sunlight, and property lines when planning the structure.\\nIf your building will have windows, you may want to orient them to get sun in the mornings or afternoons. Position the main doorway on the side of the building you’ll commonly approach it from. Develop a plan in your head for how you want the building to face and where entrances, exits, and walkways may need to be.\\nIf your structure will be for a business, you may want the door and large windows facing the street.\\nIf you are building a garage, the garage bay door needs to be oriented toward the street as well.\\nIf you are building a workshop or out-building, you may want to front door pointed at the back door of your house, since that’s where you’ll be approaching it from.\\n1-3. Hire an architect or purchase a building plan.\\nDesigning a building is a complex process that is best left to the professionals. Depending on the type of building you want, you may be able to purchase off-the-shelf construction plans (for garages, outbuildings, and even houses). However, for a specialized project, you should enlist the services of an architect to ensure your building is designed to be structurally sound and within local codes.\\nThere are websites that offer free construction plans for sheds and small structures, as well as others that sell plans for more complex buildings.\\nMany architects can create plans for buildings ranging from simple to complex, with pricing that usually matches complexity.\\nPre-fabricated structures like sheds and even garages come with the plans and supplies you need.\\n1-4. Secure the appropriate permits.\\nThere are a number of different permits you may potentially need to secure before you start construction, depending on where you live, the size of the building, and what the building will be used for. Contact your local town or city government office to inquire about building permits and how to go about getting the ones you need.\\nMany town and city governments have websites devoted to helping you locate and apply for the correct permits.\\nDo not begin construction without securing the necessary permits, or you may be subject to legal penalties or fines.\\n1-5. Use the plans to determine what work you can do yourself.\\nOnce you have a building plan, you can begin to break the project down into a sort of to-do list. You may want to do all of it yourself, or you may need to outsource some of the work to local contractors. Decide what you can and can’t do on your own beforehand so you can set up your budget. If need be, you can get a construction loan to help pay outside work.\\nThe job will require building various types of framing with wood, starting with a frame for the foundation and continuing through the walls and roof.\\nYou will also need to pour a large amount of concrete for the structure’s foundation, which may require the use of a concrete delivery service.\\nWiring, HVAC, and plumbing may be concerns depending on the size and use of your building.\\n2. Laying the Foundation\\n2-1. Level the build site\\nThis process may be simple or difficult and expensive, depending on the site you’ve chosen. For small buildings, you may be able to level the site using a shovel and a tamp. However, for large buildings, you may need to use heavy machinery like a bulldozer.\\nDrive stakes into the ground at all four corners of the build site, then tie a string from post to post, using a level to ensure they are perfectly straight. From there, measure the distance from the string to the ground in different spots to see how high or low they are compared to the rest. Then add or remove dirt as necessary.\\nOnce the surface is even, tamp it down so it’s firm and flat.\\n2-2. Pour the concrete foundation\\nFirst, use the stakes you laid out to guide you as you install the right size lumber for your specific foundation. Different structures will have different depth requirements for the concrete, so adhere to the specifications on your building plan. Once the forms are complete, either pour the concrete yourself or hire a concrete delivery service to pour it for you.\\nYou can purchase concrete by the bag and mix it yourself, but for larger applications, you may want to have a concrete delivery service pour pre-mixed concrete straight into your forms from the truck.\\n2-3. Add rebar or mesh to the concrete for strength.\\nAdding the additional steel for support will strengthen the building’s foundation and reduce the chances of cracking or damage. Typically either number 4 rebar on 12 inch (30.5 cm) centers or 6X6 welded wire reinforcing wire fabric are your best options.\\nYou can buy either mesh or rebar at your local hardware store.\\nInsert the steel reinforcement about halfway through your pour so it will have concrete above and below it.\\n2-4. Finish pouring the concrete and let it set for 24 hours.\\nAfter the metal reinforcement is set, fill the wood forms the rest of the way with concrete and then brush off any excess to ensure the surface is perfectly flat.\\nAllow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before doing any more work on the structure.\\n2-5. Have the site inspected if applicable.\\nDepending on where you’re doing the construction, you may now need to have an inspector evaluate your foundation before you can set about framing the walls. If your local ordinances require an inspection, have them come once the concrete has cured.\\nYou can find out what inspections are necessary and how to schedule them on your local town or city government website or at City Hall.\\nFailing to schedule mandatory inspections could result in fines. The inspections are intended to ensure your structure is being built safely.\\n3. Constructing a Shell\\n3-1. Contact your local lumber yard to help with your materials list.\\nInstead of purchasing the wood from your local hardware store (which may not be feasible depending on the size of your project), contact your local lumber yard and use the architectural plans to place a large order of all the wood you’ll need. Many lumber yards will even deliver the order to you.\\nOrdering large amounts of wood at once will reduce the overall cost.\\nLumber yards can often help you determine exactly what you need based on your plans thanks to their experience with construction firms.\\n3-2. Frame the exterior walls\\nOn smaller buildings, build the wall first, then have friends help you raise the wall and secure it in place. On larger buildings, however, you’ll need to build the wall frames directly onto the foundation. The studs in your exterior walls should be 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm), but exterior walls on larger structures should be 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 6 inches (15 cm).\\nFollow the plans for your building specifically when building and placing the wall frames.\\nPay close attention to detail while building the walls. One incorrect measurement could result in an uneven wall that could create a gap between the top of the wall and the roof.\\n3-3. Add temporary wall bracing for support.\\nUntil all of the walls are completed and the roof is installed overhead, you can keep the walls standing properly by screwing temporary beams of wood into the walls that connect them to one another. These beams should be removed once you install the roof trusses.\\nUse screws rather than nails so it’s easy to unscrew the braces when the structure is stable.\\nThis step is often only necessary until the full frame is complete.\\n3-4. Install the roof trusses\\nYou may purchase completed trusses from the lumber supply company, or you may prefer making them yourself. Roof trusses can be complex and time-consuming, so purchasing completed ones is often preferred. Attach them to the tops of the frame walls, lining up the trusses with the studs.\\nLarger building may utilize a different roof framing, but trusses are the most common for small structures.\\n3-5. Attach plywood to the exterior of the wall frames.\\nUse nails to secure the plywood to the outside of the framed walls. Cut spaces in the plywood for any window or door frames. This plywood will serve as the beginning of the exterior walls.\\nDo not install plywood on the interior side of the walls.\\nNail the plywood directly into the studs to secure them in place.\\n3-6. Install the roof decking.\\nYou can start by nailing plywood into place on the roof to be covered and then shingled, or you may choose to use single piece metal roofing for buildings like sheds or garages. Nail or screw the decking of your choice into place along the roof trusses.\\nOnce done, the building will look like a nearly completed structure, but there’s still quite a bit left to do.\\n3-7. Call in the inspectors.\\nAt this stage, you may need to have the building inspected again to ensure your structure is up to code. Refer to local ordinances to know for sure what inspections your specific type of building is subject to.\\nThe inspectors will be looking at building materials, stud spacing and signs of damage.\\n4. Finishing the Structure\\n4-1. Run the wiring, HVAC, and plumbing through the walls.\\nTraditionally speaking, plumbing should be done first, followed by HVAC and electrical wiring, but in practice, elements of each project will overlap. These jobs may be best left to plumbers and electricians, as they require specific skills and expertise.\\nHave contractors tasked with each job work together to coordinate the installations.\\nEnsure there is no electricity flowing to the structure when working on its wiring.\\n4-2. Install permanent fixtures that may affect wall placement, like bathtubs.\\nBefore the interior walls are finished, move large fixtures into place and position them where they will be once the building is complete.\\nIt’s easier to move large things into place before all the walls are finished.\\nYou’ll need to know the positioning of things like bathtubs and toilets when installing interior walls.\\n4-3. Put in the insulation if applicable.\\nSheds and some garages are often not insulated, but if your building will be, there are a number of options to choose from. Blanket insulation is the most common for new construction and can be unrolled between the studs of the walls and stapled into place.\\nYou could also wait until the interior walls are in place and then add loose-fill or blown-in insulation into the gap between the exterior and interior walls.\\nSpray foam insulation and fiberglass insulation are alternatives.\\nAlways wear eye protection, a particulate mask, and gloves when working with fiberglass insulation.\\n4-4. Staple or nail paper roofing felt to the roof if needed.\\nIf you used plywood on your roof, unroll paper roofing felt over the plywood and secure it in place. This will create a sealed barrier beneath the roofing shingles you apply.\\nCut any excess paper roofing felt off with a razor blade.\\nMake sure to staple or nail the roofing felt in place all along the perimeter to avoid it blowing up and off while you work.\\n4-5. Nail down overlapping rows of shingles\\nStart by laying a row of shingles along the roof’s bottom edge. Nail each shingle into place 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the edge and then overlap the nail with the next shingle. Then lay a second row with 6 inches (17 centimeters) behind the first one and continue until the entire roof is covered.\\nUse ridge shingles on the corner created by the top point of the roof.\\n4-6. Hang drywall\\nMeasure and cut each piece of drywall, then have a friend help to put it in place. Screw the drywall into the wall studs to secure it. Then repeat that process to hang the ceiling drywall as well. Once all the drywall is in place, tape and mud it to give the drywall a smooth, paintable finish.\\nOnce the drywall is done, you can paint the interior walls.\\nYou may also choose to cover the drywall with wallpaper.\\n4-7. Apply overlapped siding\\nOverlapping siding works just like roof shingles to protect the exterior wall of your building. Start by installing a starter strip and corner posts using nails, then cut and install layers of siding to the walls starting at the bottom.\\nOverlap adjoining panels of siding to prevent moisture from getting in.\\nTips\\nYou’ll usually need to have inspections done after laying the concrete foundation, installing the floors, and after putting up the external walls and roof. Other inspections may be specified by local laws and regulations.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The construction process can be a long, complicated, and expensive one. Depending on your level of expertise, however, you may be able to save quite a bit of money by doing some or even all of the work yourself. You can use the same fundamentals of building construction to guide you when building large, complex structures as well as small, simple ones like sheds or treehouses. Remember to adhere to all local and national laws pertaining to constructing the type of building you choose.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning a Successful Build\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Identify your build site.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to choose a location that is on your property and meets your specific needs. A garage needs street access, but a workshop may not. Consider what purpose the building will serve, what utilities will need to be run to it, your construction limitations, and your budget when finding a spot.\\nThink about how you’ll get the concrete and lumber to your build site and if it needs vehicle access.\\nThe more level the site is, the cheaper and easier it will be to prepare for building.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider neighbors, sunlight, and property lines when planning the structure.\", \"描述\": \"If your building will have windows, you may want to orient them to get sun in the mornings or afternoons. Position the main doorway on the side of the building you’ll commonly approach it from. Develop a plan in your head for how you want the building to face and where entrances, exits, and walkways may need to be.\\nIf your structure will be for a business, you may want the door and large windows facing the street.\\nIf you are building a garage, the garage bay door needs to be oriented toward the street as well.\\nIf you are building a workshop or out-building, you may want to front door pointed at the back door of your house, since that’s where you’ll be approaching it from.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hire an architect or purchase a building plan.\", \"描述\": \"Designing a building is a complex process that is best left to the professionals. Depending on the type of building you want, you may be able to purchase off-the-shelf construction plans (for garages, outbuildings, and even houses). However, for a specialized project, you should enlist the services of an architect to ensure your building is designed to be structurally sound and within local codes.\\nThere are websites that offer free construction plans for sheds and small structures, as well as others that sell plans for more complex buildings.\\nMany architects can create plans for buildings ranging from simple to complex, with pricing that usually matches complexity.\\nPre-fabricated structures like sheds and even garages come with the plans and supplies you need.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Secure the appropriate permits.\", \"描述\": \"There are a number of different permits you may potentially need to secure before you start construction, depending on where you live, the size of the building, and what the building will be used for. Contact your local town or city government office to inquire about building permits and how to go about getting the ones you need.\\nMany town and city governments have websites devoted to helping you locate and apply for the correct permits.\\nDo not begin construction without securing the necessary permits, or you may be subject to legal penalties or fines.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use the plans to determine what work you can do yourself.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have a building plan, you can begin to break the project down into a sort of to-do list. You may want to do all of it yourself, or you may need to outsource some of the work to local contractors. Decide what you can and can’t do on your own beforehand so you can set up your budget. If need be, you can get a construction loan to help pay outside work.\\nThe job will require building various types of framing with wood, starting with a frame for the foundation and continuing through the walls and roof.\\nYou will also need to pour a large amount of concrete for the structure’s foundation, which may require the use of a concrete delivery service.\\nWiring, HVAC, and plumbing may be concerns depending on the size and use of your building.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Laying the Foundation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Level the build site\", \"描述\": \"This process may be simple or difficult and expensive, depending on the site you’ve chosen. For small buildings, you may be able to level the site using a shovel and a tamp. However, for large buildings, you may need to use heavy machinery like a bulldozer.\\nDrive stakes into the ground at all four corners of the build site, then tie a string from post to post, using a level to ensure they are perfectly straight. From there, measure the distance from the string to the ground in different spots to see how high or low they are compared to the rest. Then add or remove dirt as necessary.\\nOnce the surface is even, tamp it down so it’s firm and flat.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pour the concrete foundation\", \"描述\": \"First, use the stakes you laid out to guide you as you install the right size lumber for your specific foundation. Different structures will have different depth requirements for the concrete, so adhere to the specifications on your building plan. Once the forms are complete, either pour the concrete yourself or hire a concrete delivery service to pour it for you.\\nYou can purchase concrete by the bag and mix it yourself, but for larger applications, you may want to have a concrete delivery service pour pre-mixed concrete straight into your forms from the truck.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add rebar or mesh to the concrete for strength.\", \"描述\": \"Adding the additional steel for support will strengthen the building’s foundation and reduce the chances of cracking or damage. Typically either number 4 rebar on 12 inch (30.5 cm) centers or 6X6 welded wire reinforcing wire fabric are your best options.\\nYou can buy either mesh or rebar at your local hardware store.\\nInsert the steel reinforcement about halfway through your pour so it will have concrete above and below it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finish pouring the concrete and let it set for 24 hours.\", \"描述\": \"After the metal reinforcement is set, fill the wood forms the rest of the way with concrete and then brush off any excess to ensure the surface is perfectly flat.\\nAllow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before doing any more work on the structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Have the site inspected if applicable.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on where you’re doing the construction, you may now need to have an inspector evaluate your foundation before you can set about framing the walls. If your local ordinances require an inspection, have them come once the concrete has cured.\\nYou can find out what inspections are necessary and how to schedule them on your local town or city government website or at City Hall.\\nFailing to schedule mandatory inspections could result in fines. The inspections are intended to ensure your structure is being built safely.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Constructing a Shell\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Contact your local lumber yard to help with your materials list.\", \"描述\": \"Instead of purchasing the wood from your local hardware store (which may not be feasible depending on the size of your project), contact your local lumber yard and use the architectural plans to place a large order of all the wood you’ll need. Many lumber yards will even deliver the order to you.\\nOrdering large amounts of wood at once will reduce the overall cost.\\nLumber yards can often help you determine exactly what you need based on your plans thanks to their experience with construction firms.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Frame the exterior walls\", \"描述\": \"On smaller buildings, build the wall first, then have friends help you raise the wall and secure it in place. On larger buildings, however, you’ll need to build the wall frames directly onto the foundation. The studs in your exterior walls should be 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm), but exterior walls on larger structures should be 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 6 inches (15 cm).\\nFollow the plans for your building specifically when building and placing the wall frames.\\nPay close attention to detail while building the walls. One incorrect measurement could result in an uneven wall that could create a gap between the top of the wall and the roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add temporary wall bracing for support.\", \"描述\": \"Until all of the walls are completed and the roof is installed overhead, you can keep the walls standing properly by screwing temporary beams of wood into the walls that connect them to one another. These beams should be removed once you install the roof trusses.\\nUse screws rather than nails so it’s easy to unscrew the braces when the structure is stable.\\nThis step is often only necessary until the full frame is complete.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the roof trusses\", \"描述\": \"You may purchase completed trusses from the lumber supply company, or you may prefer making them yourself. Roof trusses can be complex and time-consuming, so purchasing completed ones is often preferred. Attach them to the tops of the frame walls, lining up the trusses with the studs.\\nLarger building may utilize a different roof framing, but trusses are the most common for small structures.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach plywood to the exterior of the wall frames.\", \"描述\": \"Use nails to secure the plywood to the outside of the framed walls. Cut spaces in the plywood for any window or door frames. This plywood will serve as the beginning of the exterior walls.\\nDo not install plywood on the interior side of the walls.\\nNail the plywood directly into the studs to secure them in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install the roof decking.\", \"描述\": \"You can start by nailing plywood into place on the roof to be covered and then shingled, or you may choose to use single piece metal roofing for buildings like sheds or garages. Nail or screw the decking of your choice into place along the roof trusses.\\nOnce done, the building will look like a nearly completed structure, but there’s still quite a bit left to do.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Call in the inspectors.\", \"描述\": \"At this stage, you may need to have the building inspected again to ensure your structure is up to code. Refer to local ordinances to know for sure what inspections your specific type of building is subject to.\\nThe inspectors will be looking at building materials, stud spacing and signs of damage.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Run the wiring, HVAC, and plumbing through the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Traditionally speaking, plumbing should be done first, followed by HVAC and electrical wiring, but in practice, elements of each project will overlap. These jobs may be best left to plumbers and electricians, as they require specific skills and expertise.\\nHave contractors tasked with each job work together to coordinate the installations.\\nEnsure there is no electricity flowing to the structure when working on its wiring.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install permanent fixtures that may affect wall placement, like bathtubs.\", \"描述\": \"Before the interior walls are finished, move large fixtures into place and position them where they will be once the building is complete.\\nIt’s easier to move large things into place before all the walls are finished.\\nYou’ll need to know the positioning of things like bathtubs and toilets when installing interior walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put in the insulation if applicable.\", \"描述\": \"Sheds and some garages are often not insulated, but if your building will be, there are a number of options to choose from. Blanket insulation is the most common for new construction and can be unrolled between the studs of the walls and stapled into place.\\nYou could also wait until the interior walls are in place and then add loose-fill or blown-in insulation into the gap between the exterior and interior walls.\\nSpray foam insulation and fiberglass insulation are alternatives.\\nAlways wear eye protection, a particulate mask, and gloves when working with fiberglass insulation.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Staple or nail paper roofing felt to the roof if needed.\", \"描述\": \"If you used plywood on your roof, unroll paper roofing felt over the plywood and secure it in place. This will create a sealed barrier beneath the roofing shingles you apply.\\nCut any excess paper roofing felt off with a razor blade.\\nMake sure to staple or nail the roofing felt in place all along the perimeter to avoid it blowing up and off while you work.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Nail down overlapping rows of shingles\", \"描述\": \"Start by laying a row of shingles along the roof’s bottom edge. Nail each shingle into place 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the edge and then overlap the nail with the next shingle. Then lay a second row with 6 inches (17 centimeters) behind the first one and continue until the entire roof is covered.\\nUse ridge shingles on the corner created by the top point of the roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Hang drywall\", \"描述\": \"Measure and cut each piece of drywall, then have a friend help to put it in place. Screw the drywall into the wall studs to secure it. Then repeat that process to hang the ceiling drywall as well. Once all the drywall is in place, tape and mud it to give the drywall a smooth, paintable finish.\\nOnce the drywall is done, you can paint the interior walls.\\nYou may also choose to cover the drywall with wallpaper.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Apply overlapped siding\", \"描述\": \"Overlapping siding works just like roof shingles to protect the exterior wall of your building. Start by installing a starter strip and corner posts using nails, then cut and install layers of siding to the walls starting at the bottom.\\nOverlap adjoining panels of siding to prevent moisture from getting in.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You’ll usually need to have inspections done after laying the concrete foundation, installing the floors, and after putting up the external walls and roof. Other inspections may be specified by local laws and regulations.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,244 |
How to Build a Bunker in Minecraft
|
1. Steps
1-1. Dig downwards.
This bunker is going to be near the bedrock level. Dig a two-by-one shaft so that you can avoid falling into lava and the like. Stop when you reach around y=15.
1-2. Hollow out a space to stay in.
A 7-wide, 13-long, 4-high space works well.
1-3. Place a nether portal in one of the walls.
It will probably look better in one of the short walls.
1-4. Fill in the shaft to the surface and place a second nether portal on the surface.
You will use this portal to access your bunker.
1-5. Go through the top portal and dig a tunnel in the nether that links the top and bottom portals.
This is probably the most dangerous part of the build. Once you have built the tunnel, you may wish to fill it with security devices.
1-6. Go through the portals and into your bunker.
If you turn off the portal in your bunker, then anybody going through the portal system will be sent back out the top portal.
1-7. Decorate your bunker walls to make it more homely.
If you add a layer of obsidian behind the walls, it will prevent people from using TNT to enter your bunker.
1-8. Add survival systems to your bunker.
You are potentially going to be staying in your bunker for extended periods of time, so you want several mechanisms to allow you to survive. In addition, these mechanisms do not want to be dependent on outside resources, such as bonemeal.
A chicken farm. Fully automatic.
A bonemeal-less crop farm.
A bed
A clock
A storage system. A shulker box loader will help.
A furnace and an enchanting table. Not strictly resource-less (they use coal and lapis), but they won't be used very often.
An ender pearl station. Again, not strictly resource-less, but won't be used often.
An under-floor armory.
1-9. Congrats!
You now have an underground bunker! You can expand it with the following suggestions:
A small tree farm, to provide wood and charcoal
A charcoal smelter.
A backup nether portal, as an emergency exit.
Rooms for more people.
If you are near one, a skeleton spawner farm. With this providing bonemeal and XP, you can make all your other farms more compact.
Melon, pumpkin, sugar and cocoa bean farms.
Whatever else you can imagine. At this point, it's becoming less of an underground bunker and more of an underground city!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Dig downwards.\\nThis bunker is going to be near the bedrock level. Dig a two-by-one shaft so that you can avoid falling into lava and the like. Stop when you reach around y=15.\\n1-2. Hollow out a space to stay in.\\nA 7-wide, 13-long, 4-high space works well.\\n1-3. Place a nether portal in one of the walls.\\nIt will probably look better in one of the short walls.\\n1-4. Fill in the shaft to the surface and place a second nether portal on the surface.\\nYou will use this portal to access your bunker.\\n1-5. Go through the top portal and dig a tunnel in the nether that links the top and bottom portals.\\nThis is probably the most dangerous part of the build. Once you have built the tunnel, you may wish to fill it with security devices.\\n1-6. Go through the portals and into your bunker.\\nIf you turn off the portal in your bunker, then anybody going through the portal system will be sent back out the top portal.\\n1-7. Decorate your bunker walls to make it more homely.\\nIf you add a layer of obsidian behind the walls, it will prevent people from using TNT to enter your bunker.\\n1-8. Add survival systems to your bunker.\\nYou are potentially going to be staying in your bunker for extended periods of time, so you want several mechanisms to allow you to survive. In addition, these mechanisms do not want to be dependent on outside resources, such as bonemeal.\\nA chicken farm. Fully automatic.\\nA bonemeal-less crop farm.\\nA bed\\nA clock\\nA storage system. A shulker box loader will help.\\nA furnace and an enchanting table. Not strictly resource-less (they use coal and lapis), but they won't be used very often.\\nAn ender pearl station. Again, not strictly resource-less, but won't be used often.\\nAn under-floor armory.\\n1-9. Congrats!\\nYou now have an underground bunker! You can expand it with the following suggestions:\\nA small tree farm, to provide wood and charcoal\\nA charcoal smelter.\\nA backup nether portal, as an emergency exit.\\nRooms for more people.\\nIf you are near one, a skeleton spawner farm. With this providing bonemeal and XP, you can make all your other farms more compact.\\nMelon, pumpkin, sugar and cocoa bean farms.\\nWhatever else you can imagine. At this point, it's becoming less of an underground bunker and more of an underground city!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Need a place to hide out and protect your resources in Minecraft? Building an underground survival bunker will help keep you safe from the dangers of the Overworld. If you need ideas for designing the perfect underground base with everything you'll need to survive, we've got you covered. Read on to find out how to build a secure Minecraft bunker!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig downwards.\", \"描述\": \"This bunker is going to be near the bedrock level. Dig a two-by-one shaft so that you can avoid falling into lava and the like. Stop when you reach around y=15.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hollow out a space to stay in.\", \"描述\": \"A 7-wide, 13-long, 4-high space works well.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place a nether portal in one of the walls.\", \"描述\": \"It will probably look better in one of the short walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill in the shaft to the surface and place a second nether portal on the surface.\", \"描述\": \"You will use this portal to access your bunker.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Go through the top portal and dig a tunnel in the nether that links the top and bottom portals.\", \"描述\": \"This is probably the most dangerous part of the build. Once you have built the tunnel, you may wish to fill it with security devices.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Go through the portals and into your bunker.\", \"描述\": \"If you turn off the portal in your bunker, then anybody going through the portal system will be sent back out the top portal.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Decorate your bunker walls to make it more homely.\", \"描述\": \"If you add a layer of obsidian behind the walls, it will prevent people from using TNT to enter your bunker.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add survival systems to your bunker.\", \"描述\": \"You are potentially going to be staying in your bunker for extended periods of time, so you want several mechanisms to allow you to survive. In addition, these mechanisms do not want to be dependent on outside resources, such as bonemeal.\\nA chicken farm. Fully automatic.\\nA bonemeal-less crop farm.\\nA bed\\nA clock\\nA storage system. A shulker box loader will help.\\nA furnace and an enchanting table. Not strictly resource-less (they use coal and lapis), but they won't be used very often.\\nAn ender pearl station. Again, not strictly resource-less, but won't be used often.\\nAn under-floor armory.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Congrats!\", \"描述\": \"You now have an underground bunker! You can expand it with the following suggestions:\\nA small tree farm, to provide wood and charcoal\\nA charcoal smelter.\\nA backup nether portal, as an emergency exit.\\nRooms for more people.\\nIf you are near one, a skeleton spawner farm. With this providing bonemeal and XP, you can make all your other farms more compact.\\nMelon, pumpkin, sugar and cocoa bean farms.\\nWhatever else you can imagine. At this point, it's becoming less of an underground bunker and more of an underground city!\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,245 |
How to Build a Butterfly House
|
1. Making the Pieces
1-1. Use untreated wood.
To create the butterfly house, you will need pine wood which can be purchased at your local hardware store. Your materials do not need to be perfectly sanded down or anything of that nature. Using raw wood will work just fine. You will be able to create an entire butterfly house with two boards. One measuring 1" x 8" x 8' and the second measuring 1" x 10" x 4'.
Consider recycling scrap wood you have around the house if available.
If purchasing materials from a store, ask to have everything cut to size for easier assembling and time savings once at home.
1-2. Grab the 1”x 8” x 8’ board.
With a measuring tape, mark three equal parts, each measuring 30” in length. These three pieces will serve as the back and two sides. The remaining piece of this particular board will be used as the bottom of the house. You can customize your butterfly house as you see fit and adjust the measurements to create a larger or smaller version.
Using the jigsaw, cut out each piece. Take every precaution when using power tools like this one. Read all instructions, wear gloves and goggles. If you are not trained in using this machine, a handsaw will work as well.
1-3. Cut out the floor.
From the same board, the remaining piece of wood will measure 8” x 5 ¾”, cut this piece to measure 5 ¾” x 5 5/8”.
1-4. Grab the 1”x 10” x 4’ board.
Out of this piece, you will create the front of the house, the roof and roof block (the roof block with sit inside the house when closed to seal the unit shut). Measure and cut 30” x 5 5/8” to make the front. Measure and cut 5 ¾” x 5 ½” to make the roof block.
1-5. Make the roof.
From the remaining piece of this board, measure and cut 9 ½” x 8 5/8” for the roof.
1-6. Create the slots.
Butterflies will use the slots to enter and exit the house. Grab the front piece you’ve just made (the 30” x 5 5/8” piece). Measure and mark six vertical rectangles. Each should measure 4” long x ½” wide. These can be spaced as you see fit. Using the ½ inch drill bit, drill a hole through the top and the bottom of the rectangles to create 6 pairs of holes.
Using the jigsaw, cut the space in between each of the paired holes to create the openings/slots.
You can add more or less slots if you prefer.
Keep in mind that making the slots any larger will encourage other, perhaps unwanted, animals to make this house their home.
2. Building the House
2-1. Grab the back and two side pieces (these each measure 30" in length).
Lay the back piece flat on your work surface with a side piece up against it to create a 90 degree angle. Attach the first side piece to the back edge using a screw gun. You will only need three screws to attach the side. They should be placed 10” apart. One at the bottom, one in the middle and one at the top.
Use 1 1/2" deck or galvanized wood screws to prevent rusting.
Repeat this for the other side of the house.
If a screw gun isn't available, you can use a screw driver.
2-2. Place the floor.
Put the piece measuring 5 ¾” x 5 5/8”, in the interior of the back and the sides. The floor should be flush with the bottom of the back board and side boards. Using the screw gun or screw driver, drill a screw through the side into the edge of the bottom piece and repeat on opposite side.
Drill another screw through the back wall, into the side of the bottom piece.
2-3. Stand the house upright.
Slide the 30" long front piece with slots up against the bottom block, mirroring the back piece. Attach with screw gun or screw driver by drilling through the side, into the edge of the front piece. This is exactly how you attached the back piece, every 10”. Place one screw through the front piece, into the bottom block.
2-4. Attach the roof block to roof.
Remember, the roof block with sit inside the house when closed to seal the unit shut. The roof block will need to be centered on the underside of the roof. Put the roof piece flat on a table lengthwise vertically. Measure 1” off the back edge and draw a horizontal line. Mark the center of this line which is 4 5/16”. Draw a vertical line from this point to the front edge of the roof piece.
Also mark a center line on the shorter edge (5 ½”) of the roof block, which is 2 ¾”.
Place the roof block along the horizontal line. Be sure to line up the center marks on both the roof piece and roof block. This will center the roof block on the roof and allow for equal overhang.
2-5. Nail the roof block to the roof.
Use 1 1/2" galvanized nails and hammer in one on each corner.
Nails should be short enough to avoid going completely through the roof.
2-6. Place lid on top of standing butterfly house.
Check to make sure everything looks secure and stable.
3. Attracting Butterflies
3-1. Use sugar.
Mix one part sugar with four parts water and bring to a boil. This will help dissolve the sugar completely. Get a brand new sponge and a small dish. Pour the water into the dish on top of the sponge so it is about halfway full. Place the dish with sponge in the butterfly house.
Check the solution daily to ensure it isn’t growing mold or other bacteria.
Rather than throwing out the remaining sugar water, store it in the fridge for later use.
3-2. Paint the outside.
Butterflies are attracted to bright colors so decorate the house. Pick a color that will really pop amongst the other foliage like yellow, pink or red. Draw flowers and trees on the house for even more appeal.
Be sure to use non-toxic paint.
Consider placing a piece of tree bark inside the house to create a more real environment.
3-3. Plant flowers.
You probably are well aware that butterflies are drawn to certain plants and flowers. Plant a few around your home like strawberry, dandelion or blueberry. These flowers provide nectar for feeding.
You can place a few inside the butterfly house too. Aster, clover, honeydew and thistle are great choices.
Skip anything that has been treated with pesticides as this could harm them.
3-4. Keep the house in the sun.
Shaded areas will not attract the butterflies. They love to swirl around in the bright sun during feeding and mating. Because of this, having water around will ensure they stick around for longer periods of time.
Place a shallow water source outside the house.
Pour water on rocks or stone paths in your garden.
3-5. Leave rotting fruit.
This may not sound too appealing to you but butterflies love it! Throw out some fruit cores and peels whenever you have them.
Overly ripe bananas are an especially good trick. Simply place pieces around the garden and watch the butterflies swarm.
Tips
Feel free to include kids in the building process!
Warnings
Pesticides will kill the butterflies as well has harm the environment. Search for alternative solutions to unwanted insects like companionship planting.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the Pieces\\n1-1. Use untreated wood.\\nTo create the butterfly house, you will need pine wood which can be purchased at your local hardware store. Your materials do not need to be perfectly sanded down or anything of that nature. Using raw wood will work just fine. You will be able to create an entire butterfly house with two boards. One measuring 1\\\" x 8\\\" x 8' and the second measuring 1\\\" x 10\\\" x 4'.\\nConsider recycling scrap wood you have around the house if available.\\nIf purchasing materials from a store, ask to have everything cut to size for easier assembling and time savings once at home.\\n1-2. Grab the 1”x 8” x 8’ board.\\nWith a measuring tape, mark three equal parts, each measuring 30” in length. These three pieces will serve as the back and two sides. The remaining piece of this particular board will be used as the bottom of the house. You can customize your butterfly house as you see fit and adjust the measurements to create a larger or smaller version.\\nUsing the jigsaw, cut out each piece. Take every precaution when using power tools like this one. Read all instructions, wear gloves and goggles. If you are not trained in using this machine, a handsaw will work as well.\\n1-3. Cut out the floor.\\nFrom the same board, the remaining piece of wood will measure 8” x 5 ¾”, cut this piece to measure 5 ¾” x 5 5/8”.\\n1-4. Grab the 1”x 10” x 4’ board.\\nOut of this piece, you will create the front of the house, the roof and roof block (the roof block with sit inside the house when closed to seal the unit shut). Measure and cut 30” x 5 5/8” to make the front. Measure and cut 5 ¾” x 5 ½” to make the roof block.\\n1-5. Make the roof.\\nFrom the remaining piece of this board, measure and cut 9 ½” x 8 5/8” for the roof.\\n1-6. Create the slots.\\nButterflies will use the slots to enter and exit the house. Grab the front piece you’ve just made (the 30” x 5 5/8” piece). Measure and mark six vertical rectangles. Each should measure 4” long x ½” wide. These can be spaced as you see fit. Using the ½ inch drill bit, drill a hole through the top and the bottom of the rectangles to create 6 pairs of holes.\\nUsing the jigsaw, cut the space in between each of the paired holes to create the openings/slots.\\nYou can add more or less slots if you prefer.\\nKeep in mind that making the slots any larger will encourage other, perhaps unwanted, animals to make this house their home.\\n2. Building the House\\n2-1. Grab the back and two side pieces (these each measure 30\\\" in length).\\nLay the back piece flat on your work surface with a side piece up against it to create a 90 degree angle. Attach the first side piece to the back edge using a screw gun. You will only need three screws to attach the side. They should be placed 10” apart. One at the bottom, one in the middle and one at the top.\\nUse 1 1/2\\\" deck or galvanized wood screws to prevent rusting.\\nRepeat this for the other side of the house.\\nIf a screw gun isn't available, you can use a screw driver.\\n2-2. Place the floor.\\nPut the piece measuring 5 ¾” x 5 5/8”, in the interior of the back and the sides. The floor should be flush with the bottom of the back board and side boards. Using the screw gun or screw driver, drill a screw through the side into the edge of the bottom piece and repeat on opposite side.\\nDrill another screw through the back wall, into the side of the bottom piece.\\n2-3. Stand the house upright.\\nSlide the 30\\\" long front piece with slots up against the bottom block, mirroring the back piece. Attach with screw gun or screw driver by drilling through the side, into the edge of the front piece. This is exactly how you attached the back piece, every 10”. Place one screw through the front piece, into the bottom block.\\n2-4. Attach the roof block to roof.\\nRemember, the roof block with sit inside the house when closed to seal the unit shut. The roof block will need to be centered on the underside of the roof. Put the roof piece flat on a table lengthwise vertically. Measure 1” off the back edge and draw a horizontal line. Mark the center of this line which is 4 5/16”. Draw a vertical line from this point to the front edge of the roof piece.\\nAlso mark a center line on the shorter edge (5 ½”) of the roof block, which is 2 ¾”.\\nPlace the roof block along the horizontal line. Be sure to line up the center marks on both the roof piece and roof block. This will center the roof block on the roof and allow for equal overhang.\\n2-5. Nail the roof block to the roof.\\nUse 1 1/2\\\" galvanized nails and hammer in one on each corner.\\nNails should be short enough to avoid going completely through the roof.\\n2-6. Place lid on top of standing butterfly house.\\nCheck to make sure everything looks secure and stable.\\n3. Attracting Butterflies\\n3-1. Use sugar.\\nMix one part sugar with four parts water and bring to a boil. This will help dissolve the sugar completely. Get a brand new sponge and a small dish. Pour the water into the dish on top of the sponge so it is about halfway full. Place the dish with sponge in the butterfly house.\\nCheck the solution daily to ensure it isn’t growing mold or other bacteria.\\nRather than throwing out the remaining sugar water, store it in the fridge for later use.\\n3-2. Paint the outside.\\nButterflies are attracted to bright colors so decorate the house. Pick a color that will really pop amongst the other foliage like yellow, pink or red. Draw flowers and trees on the house for even more appeal.\\nBe sure to use non-toxic paint.\\nConsider placing a piece of tree bark inside the house to create a more real environment.\\n3-3. Plant flowers.\\nYou probably are well aware that butterflies are drawn to certain plants and flowers. Plant a few around your home like strawberry, dandelion or blueberry. These flowers provide nectar for feeding.\\nYou can place a few inside the butterfly house too. Aster, clover, honeydew and thistle are great choices.\\nSkip anything that has been treated with pesticides as this could harm them.\\n3-4. Keep the house in the sun.\\nShaded areas will not attract the butterflies. They love to swirl around in the bright sun during feeding and mating. Because of this, having water around will ensure they stick around for longer periods of time.\\nPlace a shallow water source outside the house.\\nPour water on rocks or stone paths in your garden.\\n3-5. Leave rotting fruit.\\nThis may not sound too appealing to you but butterflies love it! Throw out some fruit cores and peels whenever you have them.\\nOverly ripe bananas are an especially good trick. Simply place pieces around the garden and watch the butterflies swarm.\\nTips\\nFeel free to include kids in the building process!\\nWarnings\\nPesticides will kill the butterflies as well has harm the environment. Search for alternative solutions to unwanted insects like companionship planting.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"In many backyards, there’s a house for the dog, the birds and now you can have one for butterflies. A butterfly house is an enclosed wooden structure with narrow slits on the front, designed to mimic a tree. This encourages the insects to congregate around the house. The houses come in all shapes and even more sizes. Many butterflies will use it as a mating ground, feeding area or protection from predators and harsh weather. Build your own butterfly house to attract one of the nearly 17,000 species to your garden and watch them come and go with delight.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use untreated wood.\", \"描述\": \"To create the butterfly house, you will need pine wood which can be purchased at your local hardware store. Your materials do not need to be perfectly sanded down or anything of that nature. Using raw wood will work just fine. You will be able to create an entire butterfly house with two boards. One measuring 1\\\" x 8\\\" x 8' and the second measuring 1\\\" x 10\\\" x 4'.\\nConsider recycling scrap wood you have around the house if available.\\nIf purchasing materials from a store, ask to have everything cut to size for easier assembling and time savings once at home.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Grab the 1”x 8” x 8’ board.\", \"描述\": \"With a measuring tape, mark three equal parts, each measuring 30” in length. These three pieces will serve as the back and two sides. The remaining piece of this particular board will be used as the bottom of the house. You can customize your butterfly house as you see fit and adjust the measurements to create a larger or smaller version.\\nUsing the jigsaw, cut out each piece. Take every precaution when using power tools like this one. Read all instructions, wear gloves and goggles. If you are not trained in using this machine, a handsaw will work as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut out the floor.\", \"描述\": \"From the same board, the remaining piece of wood will measure 8” x 5 ¾”, cut this piece to measure 5 ¾” x 5 5/8”.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Grab the 1”x 10” x 4’ board.\", \"描述\": \"Out of this piece, you will create the front of the house, the roof and roof block (the roof block with sit inside the house when closed to seal the unit shut). Measure and cut 30” x 5 5/8” to make the front. Measure and cut 5 ¾” x 5 ½” to make the roof block.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make the roof.\", \"描述\": \"From the remaining piece of this board, measure and cut 9 ½” x 8 5/8” for the roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create the slots.\", \"描述\": \"Butterflies will use the slots to enter and exit the house. Grab the front piece you’ve just made (the 30” x 5 5/8” piece). Measure and mark six vertical rectangles. Each should measure 4” long x ½” wide. These can be spaced as you see fit. Using the ½ inch drill bit, drill a hole through the top and the bottom of the rectangles to create 6 pairs of holes.\\nUsing the jigsaw, cut the space in between each of the paired holes to create the openings/slots.\\nYou can add more or less slots if you prefer.\\nKeep in mind that making the slots any larger will encourage other, perhaps unwanted, animals to make this house their home.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Grab the back and two side pieces (these each measure 30\\\" in length).\", \"描述\": \"Lay the back piece flat on your work surface with a side piece up against it to create a 90 degree angle. Attach the first side piece to the back edge using a screw gun. You will only need three screws to attach the side. They should be placed 10” apart. One at the bottom, one in the middle and one at the top.\\nUse 1 1/2\\\" deck or galvanized wood screws to prevent rusting.\\nRepeat this for the other side of the house.\\nIf a screw gun isn't available, you can use a screw driver.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Put the piece measuring 5 ¾” x 5 5/8”, in the interior of the back and the sides. The floor should be flush with the bottom of the back board and side boards. Using the screw gun or screw driver, drill a screw through the side into the edge of the bottom piece and repeat on opposite side.\\nDrill another screw through the back wall, into the side of the bottom piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stand the house upright.\", \"描述\": \"Slide the 30\\\" long front piece with slots up against the bottom block, mirroring the back piece. Attach with screw gun or screw driver by drilling through the side, into the edge of the front piece. This is exactly how you attached the back piece, every 10”. Place one screw through the front piece, into the bottom block.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the roof block to roof.\", \"描述\": \"Remember, the roof block with sit inside the house when closed to seal the unit shut. The roof block will need to be centered on the underside of the roof. Put the roof piece flat on a table lengthwise vertically. Measure 1” off the back edge and draw a horizontal line. Mark the center of this line which is 4 5/16”. Draw a vertical line from this point to the front edge of the roof piece.\\nAlso mark a center line on the shorter edge (5 ½”) of the roof block, which is 2 ¾”.\\nPlace the roof block along the horizontal line. Be sure to line up the center marks on both the roof piece and roof block. This will center the roof block on the roof and allow for equal overhang.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Nail the roof block to the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Use 1 1/2\\\" galvanized nails and hammer in one on each corner.\\nNails should be short enough to avoid going completely through the roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place lid on top of standing butterfly house.\", \"描述\": \"Check to make sure everything looks secure and stable.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attracting Butterflies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use sugar.\", \"描述\": \"Mix one part sugar with four parts water and bring to a boil. This will help dissolve the sugar completely. Get a brand new sponge and a small dish. Pour the water into the dish on top of the sponge so it is about halfway full. Place the dish with sponge in the butterfly house.\\nCheck the solution daily to ensure it isn’t growing mold or other bacteria.\\nRather than throwing out the remaining sugar water, store it in the fridge for later use.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint the outside.\", \"描述\": \"Butterflies are attracted to bright colors so decorate the house. Pick a color that will really pop amongst the other foliage like yellow, pink or red. Draw flowers and trees on the house for even more appeal.\\nBe sure to use non-toxic paint.\\nConsider placing a piece of tree bark inside the house to create a more real environment.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plant flowers.\", \"描述\": \"You probably are well aware that butterflies are drawn to certain plants and flowers. Plant a few around your home like strawberry, dandelion or blueberry. These flowers provide nectar for feeding.\\nYou can place a few inside the butterfly house too. Aster, clover, honeydew and thistle are great choices.\\nSkip anything that has been treated with pesticides as this could harm them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep the house in the sun.\", \"描述\": \"Shaded areas will not attract the butterflies. They love to swirl around in the bright sun during feeding and mating. Because of this, having water around will ensure they stick around for longer periods of time.\\nPlace a shallow water source outside the house.\\nPour water on rocks or stone paths in your garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Leave rotting fruit.\", \"描述\": \"This may not sound too appealing to you but butterflies love it! Throw out some fruit cores and peels whenever you have them.\\nOverly ripe bananas are an especially good trick. Simply place pieces around the garden and watch the butterflies swarm.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Feel free to include kids in the building process!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Pesticides will kill the butterflies as well has harm the environment. Search for alternative solutions to unwanted insects like companionship planting.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,246 |
How to Build a Cabinet: An Easy Guide
|
1. Planning the Project
1-1. Measure the space where the cabinets will go.
Your cabinets may differ slightly depending on where you’re installing them. Grab a tape measure and write down the height, width, and depth of the space that you’re going to put your cabinets.
Focus on building for convenience instead of aesthetic appeal. Make sure the cabinets fit your space and store things within your reach.
Try to build with manufactured wood, which is easier to use than solid wood.
1-2. Decide on the dimensions of each cabinet.
Standard cabinets are about 36 in (91 cm) tall, including countertops. The depth is typically around 24 in (61 cm), unless you’re building upper cabinets, in which case the depth is around 12 in (30 cm). Most cabinets sit on top of toe kicks that are 4 in (10 cm) tall and set in about 3 in (7.6 cm) from the front of the cabinet.
You can adjust these measurements slightly to fit your space if you need to. This is your project, so pick the dimensions that work best for your space.
If you'd like to save time, look into flat pack options. These contain pre-cut and drilled cabinet pieces that only require assembly.
1-3. Choose between faceless and face frame cabinets.
Cabinets with a face frame are a bit more traditional. They have a wooden “frame” around the doors that provide an aesthetically pleasing finish to the cabinet. Faceless cabinets don’t have this frame, and are generally easier to make for beginners.
If you’re going to build cabinets with a face frame, prepare to buy a little extra wood and spend a little extra time on this project.
Faceless cabinets are also called European cabinets.
2. Cutting Pieces
2-1. Cut 3/4 inch plywood into manageable pieces.
The majority of the cabinet is going to be built using plywood. Head to your local hardware store and pick up some 3/4 inch plywood sheets, then use a circular saw or a track saw to cut them down into 23 in (58 cm) wide strips.
If you’re using a circular saw, make sure you have a straight edge to act as a guide as you cut through your pieces.
Always wear gloves, safety goggles, and ear plugs when using power tools. If you have long hair, tie it up so it doesn’t get caught in your tools.
2-2. Cut 34.5 in x 24 in panels for the sides of the cabinet.
Cut out the side pieces out of 3/4" MDF, plywood, or an appropriate type of laminate using a band saw. As the sides will not be seen, the material appearance does not matter, only the strength and durability. These panels will be 34.5" high and 24" wide.
If you’re making upper or wall cabinets, the measurements should reflect your personal tastes. Standard depth is around 12-14". Height depends on how tall you want them to be and how high your ceilings are.
If you adjusted the measurements or your cabinets are a non-standard size, use your own size guidelines instead of the measurements provided here.
2-3. Use a jigsaw to cut a toe kick into 1 corner.
Clamp the two panels that you just cut together and then use a jigsaw to cut a 3x5.5" toe-kick in one corner of the panels. This will be your bottom front corner.
If you are making upper cabinets, skip this step. You don’t need a toe kick for upper cabinets.
2-4. Cut the bottom piece 24 in (61 cm) deep.
The bottom piece of your cabinet is dictated by the dimensions of your kitchen. Standard cabinets are 24 in (61 cm) deep, but the width depends on where you’re putting the cabinet. Once you’ve cut it to the right depth, cut the width as well.
Again, for wall cabinets, the depth will be somewhere between 12-14", not 24". Cut 2 of these pieces per cabinet for wall cabinets.
2-5. Cut the front and back base panels.
Use 1x6 lumber and cut 2 pieces to the width that you cut your bottom panel. If you’re making wall cabinets, you can skip this step.
2-6. Cut the top brace panels.
Cut 2 more pieces at the same width to hold the top ends together. Skip this step if you’re making wall cabinets.
2-7. Cut the facing panels out of dimensional lumber.
The facing panels will be assembled like a picture frame and will be the main part of the cabinets that show. Since this is the case, you will want to use dimensional lumber in a wood that appeals to you in order to make these panels. Use your table saw to cut wood that will fit the dimensions of the front of your cabinet.
Good sizes to use, depending on the part of the face and the style you want, include 1x2, 1x3, and 1x4.
Since these pieces are like a “frame,” cut 2 pieces for the height of the cabinet and 2 pieces for the width of the cabinet.
3. Assembling the Cabinet Base
3-1. Join the base panels to the bottom structure.
Align and glue the base panels so that one flat face is flush with the back edge of the panel and the other is 3 in (7.6 cm) back from the front end. Then, using butt joints, screw through the cabinet base and into the edge of the panels. Pilot holes are a good idea here.
Butt joints are easy joints to make, even for beginning woodworkers. All you have to do is join your pieces together so they butt up against one another and sit flush with each other.
Using wood glue isn’t strictly necessary here, but it’s a nice way to reinforce the joints and keep your pieces together.
3-2. Join the sides to the bottom piece.
Glue and then secure (again with butt joints) the side panels to the base and bottom structure, fitting the toe-kick in with the gap you made. Make sure all of the edges are flush.
To be sure that all the edges are flush, use clamps to hold your pieces in place, then use an angle measuring tool to measure each angle.
3-3. Secure the top brace panels.
Next glue and secure (with butt joints) the back brace panel so that it will sit flat against the wall. Place the front brace panel so that it will sit flush with the countertop once the countertop is placed.
3-4. Nail on a back panel.
Use a nail gun to attach a 1/2" plywood back panel. A thicker back panel will be needed for wall cabinets, like 3/4" MDF.
3-5. Reinforce the joints with corner brackets.
Use screws to install corner brackets inside each of the joints. This will help keep the cabinet frame secure so it doesn’t wobble as you install the shelves or the face frame.
Use short screws so that they don’t poke through the back of the cabinet.
3-6. Install the shelves using corner brackets.
Use 2 corner brackets per side, and install them on either side of the cabinet where you’d like the shelves to go. Slide in pieces of plywood to sit on top of the corner brackets and act as shelves.
If you’re building wall cabinets, wait to install the shelves until they’re up on the wall. That way, they won’t slide out during installation.
4. Installing Face Panels and Doors
4-1. Add the facing panels.
Assemble the facing panels into one unit like you would assemble a picture frame. You can use flat joints or you can miter them. You can use pocket holes, dowels, or mortise and tenon joints to join the pieces together. Nail and the countersink the nails to attach the completed face to the cabinet.
The facing panels sit in front of the cabinet itself but behind the door.
4-2. Install the cabinets in their permanent location.
Screw through the back panel and into the wall studs to secure the cabinet in place. Upper cabinets may require more support, such as L brackets (than can be covered up by a backsplash), if you plan to put heavy items, like dishes, in the cabinet.
It’s important to attach cabinets to studs, even if they’re sitting on the ground. Otherwise, heavy items may tip your cabinets over and away from the wall.
4-3. Install the doors using hinges.
Buy cabinet doors and install them using the hinges that are included. Once you add the doors, give your cabinets a nice finish with some wood polish before letting them dry.
You can also install drawers in your cabinets if you’d like to. However, creating drawers is a complicated process, and it’s not easy for a beginner to take on.
Tips
Make sure all the blades on the equipment you are using are sharp and tightened into place before using.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning the Project\\n1-1. Measure the space where the cabinets will go.\\nYour cabinets may differ slightly depending on where you’re installing them. Grab a tape measure and write down the height, width, and depth of the space that you’re going to put your cabinets.\\nFocus on building for convenience instead of aesthetic appeal. Make sure the cabinets fit your space and store things within your reach.\\nTry to build with manufactured wood, which is easier to use than solid wood.\\n1-2. Decide on the dimensions of each cabinet.\\nStandard cabinets are about 36 in (91 cm) tall, including countertops. The depth is typically around 24 in (61 cm), unless you’re building upper cabinets, in which case the depth is around 12 in (30 cm). Most cabinets sit on top of toe kicks that are 4 in (10 cm) tall and set in about 3 in (7.6 cm) from the front of the cabinet.\\nYou can adjust these measurements slightly to fit your space if you need to. This is your project, so pick the dimensions that work best for your space.\\nIf you'd like to save time, look into flat pack options. These contain pre-cut and drilled cabinet pieces that only require assembly.\\n1-3. Choose between faceless and face frame cabinets.\\nCabinets with a face frame are a bit more traditional. They have a wooden “frame” around the doors that provide an aesthetically pleasing finish to the cabinet. Faceless cabinets don’t have this frame, and are generally easier to make for beginners.\\nIf you’re going to build cabinets with a face frame, prepare to buy a little extra wood and spend a little extra time on this project.\\nFaceless cabinets are also called European cabinets.\\n2. Cutting Pieces\\n2-1. Cut 3/4 inch plywood into manageable pieces.\\nThe majority of the cabinet is going to be built using plywood. Head to your local hardware store and pick up some 3/4 inch plywood sheets, then use a circular saw or a track saw to cut them down into 23 in (58 cm) wide strips.\\nIf you’re using a circular saw, make sure you have a straight edge to act as a guide as you cut through your pieces.\\nAlways wear gloves, safety goggles, and ear plugs when using power tools. If you have long hair, tie it up so it doesn’t get caught in your tools.\\n2-2. Cut 34.5 in x 24 in panels for the sides of the cabinet.\\nCut out the side pieces out of 3/4\\\" MDF, plywood, or an appropriate type of laminate using a band saw. As the sides will not be seen, the material appearance does not matter, only the strength and durability. These panels will be 34.5\\\" high and 24\\\" wide.\\nIf you’re making upper or wall cabinets, the measurements should reflect your personal tastes. Standard depth is around 12-14\\\". Height depends on how tall you want them to be and how high your ceilings are.\\nIf you adjusted the measurements or your cabinets are a non-standard size, use your own size guidelines instead of the measurements provided here.\\n2-3. Use a jigsaw to cut a toe kick into 1 corner.\\nClamp the two panels that you just cut together and then use a jigsaw to cut a 3x5.5\\\" toe-kick in one corner of the panels. This will be your bottom front corner.\\nIf you are making upper cabinets, skip this step. You don’t need a toe kick for upper cabinets.\\n2-4. Cut the bottom piece 24 in (61 cm) deep.\\nThe bottom piece of your cabinet is dictated by the dimensions of your kitchen. Standard cabinets are 24 in (61 cm) deep, but the width depends on where you’re putting the cabinet. Once you’ve cut it to the right depth, cut the width as well.\\nAgain, for wall cabinets, the depth will be somewhere between 12-14\\\", not 24\\\". Cut 2 of these pieces per cabinet for wall cabinets.\\n2-5. Cut the front and back base panels.\\nUse 1x6 lumber and cut 2 pieces to the width that you cut your bottom panel. If you’re making wall cabinets, you can skip this step.\\n2-6. Cut the top brace panels.\\nCut 2 more pieces at the same width to hold the top ends together. Skip this step if you’re making wall cabinets.\\n2-7. Cut the facing panels out of dimensional lumber.\\nThe facing panels will be assembled like a picture frame and will be the main part of the cabinets that show. Since this is the case, you will want to use dimensional lumber in a wood that appeals to you in order to make these panels. Use your table saw to cut wood that will fit the dimensions of the front of your cabinet.\\nGood sizes to use, depending on the part of the face and the style you want, include 1x2, 1x3, and 1x4.\\nSince these pieces are like a “frame,” cut 2 pieces for the height of the cabinet and 2 pieces for the width of the cabinet.\\n3. Assembling the Cabinet Base\\n3-1. Join the base panels to the bottom structure.\\nAlign and glue the base panels so that one flat face is flush with the back edge of the panel and the other is 3 in (7.6 cm) back from the front end. Then, using butt joints, screw through the cabinet base and into the edge of the panels. Pilot holes are a good idea here.\\nButt joints are easy joints to make, even for beginning woodworkers. All you have to do is join your pieces together so they butt up against one another and sit flush with each other.\\nUsing wood glue isn’t strictly necessary here, but it’s a nice way to reinforce the joints and keep your pieces together.\\n3-2. Join the sides to the bottom piece.\\nGlue and then secure (again with butt joints) the side panels to the base and bottom structure, fitting the toe-kick in with the gap you made. Make sure all of the edges are flush.\\nTo be sure that all the edges are flush, use clamps to hold your pieces in place, then use an angle measuring tool to measure each angle.\\n3-3. Secure the top brace panels.\\nNext glue and secure (with butt joints) the back brace panel so that it will sit flat against the wall. Place the front brace panel so that it will sit flush with the countertop once the countertop is placed.\\n3-4. Nail on a back panel.\\nUse a nail gun to attach a 1/2\\\" plywood back panel. A thicker back panel will be needed for wall cabinets, like 3/4\\\" MDF.\\n3-5. Reinforce the joints with corner brackets.\\nUse screws to install corner brackets inside each of the joints. This will help keep the cabinet frame secure so it doesn’t wobble as you install the shelves or the face frame.\\nUse short screws so that they don’t poke through the back of the cabinet.\\n3-6. Install the shelves using corner brackets.\\nUse 2 corner brackets per side, and install them on either side of the cabinet where you’d like the shelves to go. Slide in pieces of plywood to sit on top of the corner brackets and act as shelves.\\nIf you’re building wall cabinets, wait to install the shelves until they’re up on the wall. That way, they won’t slide out during installation.\\n4. Installing Face Panels and Doors\\n4-1. Add the facing panels.\\nAssemble the facing panels into one unit like you would assemble a picture frame. You can use flat joints or you can miter them. You can use pocket holes, dowels, or mortise and tenon joints to join the pieces together. Nail and the countersink the nails to attach the completed face to the cabinet.\\nThe facing panels sit in front of the cabinet itself but behind the door.\\n4-2. Install the cabinets in their permanent location.\\nScrew through the back panel and into the wall studs to secure the cabinet in place. Upper cabinets may require more support, such as L brackets (than can be covered up by a backsplash), if you plan to put heavy items, like dishes, in the cabinet.\\nIt’s important to attach cabinets to studs, even if they’re sitting on the ground. Otherwise, heavy items may tip your cabinets over and away from the wall.\\n4-3. Install the doors using hinges.\\nBuy cabinet doors and install them using the hinges that are included. Once you add the doors, give your cabinets a nice finish with some wood polish before letting them dry.\\nYou can also install drawers in your cabinets if you’d like to. However, creating drawers is a complicated process, and it’s not easy for a beginner to take on.\\nTips\\nMake sure all the blades on the equipment you are using are sharp and tightened into place before using.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building your own cabinets can save you thousands of dollars, and it gives you more freedom over what the finished product looks like. Plus, building DIY cabinets actually isn't that complicated. To help you get started, we've put together a comprehensive guide to building cabinets that covers everything you'll need to know from start to finish. Keep reading to start building your own custom cabinets today.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the Project\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the space where the cabinets will go.\", \"描述\": \"Your cabinets may differ slightly depending on where you’re installing them. Grab a tape measure and write down the height, width, and depth of the space that you’re going to put your cabinets.\\nFocus on building for convenience instead of aesthetic appeal. Make sure the cabinets fit your space and store things within your reach.\\nTry to build with manufactured wood, which is easier to use than solid wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide on the dimensions of each cabinet.\", \"描述\": \"Standard cabinets are about 36 in (91 cm) tall, including countertops. The depth is typically around 24 in (61 cm), unless you’re building upper cabinets, in which case the depth is around 12 in (30 cm). Most cabinets sit on top of toe kicks that are 4 in (10 cm) tall and set in about 3 in (7.6 cm) from the front of the cabinet.\\nYou can adjust these measurements slightly to fit your space if you need to. This is your project, so pick the dimensions that work best for your space.\\nIf you'd like to save time, look into flat pack options. These contain pre-cut and drilled cabinet pieces that only require assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose between faceless and face frame cabinets.\", \"描述\": \"Cabinets with a face frame are a bit more traditional. They have a wooden “frame” around the doors that provide an aesthetically pleasing finish to the cabinet. Faceless cabinets don’t have this frame, and are generally easier to make for beginners.\\nIf you’re going to build cabinets with a face frame, prepare to buy a little extra wood and spend a little extra time on this project.\\nFaceless cabinets are also called European cabinets.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cutting Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 3/4 inch plywood into manageable pieces.\", \"描述\": \"The majority of the cabinet is going to be built using plywood. Head to your local hardware store and pick up some 3/4 inch plywood sheets, then use a circular saw or a track saw to cut them down into 23 in (58 cm) wide strips.\\nIf you’re using a circular saw, make sure you have a straight edge to act as a guide as you cut through your pieces.\\nAlways wear gloves, safety goggles, and ear plugs when using power tools. If you have long hair, tie it up so it doesn’t get caught in your tools.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut 34.5 in x 24 in panels for the sides of the cabinet.\", \"描述\": \"Cut out the side pieces out of 3/4\\\" MDF, plywood, or an appropriate type of laminate using a band saw. As the sides will not be seen, the material appearance does not matter, only the strength and durability. These panels will be 34.5\\\" high and 24\\\" wide.\\nIf you’re making upper or wall cabinets, the measurements should reflect your personal tastes. Standard depth is around 12-14\\\". Height depends on how tall you want them to be and how high your ceilings are.\\nIf you adjusted the measurements or your cabinets are a non-standard size, use your own size guidelines instead of the measurements provided here.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a jigsaw to cut a toe kick into 1 corner.\", \"描述\": \"Clamp the two panels that you just cut together and then use a jigsaw to cut a 3x5.5\\\" toe-kick in one corner of the panels. This will be your bottom front corner.\\nIf you are making upper cabinets, skip this step. You don’t need a toe kick for upper cabinets.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the bottom piece 24 in (61 cm) deep.\", \"描述\": \"The bottom piece of your cabinet is dictated by the dimensions of your kitchen. Standard cabinets are 24 in (61 cm) deep, but the width depends on where you’re putting the cabinet. Once you’ve cut it to the right depth, cut the width as well.\\nAgain, for wall cabinets, the depth will be somewhere between 12-14\\\", not 24\\\". Cut 2 of these pieces per cabinet for wall cabinets.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the front and back base panels.\", \"描述\": \"Use 1x6 lumber and cut 2 pieces to the width that you cut your bottom panel. If you’re making wall cabinets, you can skip this step.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut the top brace panels.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 2 more pieces at the same width to hold the top ends together. Skip this step if you’re making wall cabinets.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut the facing panels out of dimensional lumber.\", \"描述\": \"The facing panels will be assembled like a picture frame and will be the main part of the cabinets that show. Since this is the case, you will want to use dimensional lumber in a wood that appeals to you in order to make these panels. Use your table saw to cut wood that will fit the dimensions of the front of your cabinet.\\nGood sizes to use, depending on the part of the face and the style you want, include 1x2, 1x3, and 1x4.\\nSince these pieces are like a “frame,” cut 2 pieces for the height of the cabinet and 2 pieces for the width of the cabinet.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Cabinet Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Join the base panels to the bottom structure.\", \"描述\": \"Align and glue the base panels so that one flat face is flush with the back edge of the panel and the other is 3 in (7.6 cm) back from the front end. Then, using butt joints, screw through the cabinet base and into the edge of the panels. Pilot holes are a good idea here.\\nButt joints are easy joints to make, even for beginning woodworkers. All you have to do is join your pieces together so they butt up against one another and sit flush with each other.\\nUsing wood glue isn’t strictly necessary here, but it’s a nice way to reinforce the joints and keep your pieces together.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Join the sides to the bottom piece.\", \"描述\": \"Glue and then secure (again with butt joints) the side panels to the base and bottom structure, fitting the toe-kick in with the gap you made. Make sure all of the edges are flush.\\nTo be sure that all the edges are flush, use clamps to hold your pieces in place, then use an angle measuring tool to measure each angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Secure the top brace panels.\", \"描述\": \"Next glue and secure (with butt joints) the back brace panel so that it will sit flat against the wall. Place the front brace panel so that it will sit flush with the countertop once the countertop is placed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Nail on a back panel.\", \"描述\": \"Use a nail gun to attach a 1/2\\\" plywood back panel. A thicker back panel will be needed for wall cabinets, like 3/4\\\" MDF.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Reinforce the joints with corner brackets.\", \"描述\": \"Use screws to install corner brackets inside each of the joints. This will help keep the cabinet frame secure so it doesn’t wobble as you install the shelves or the face frame.\\nUse short screws so that they don’t poke through the back of the cabinet.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install the shelves using corner brackets.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2 corner brackets per side, and install them on either side of the cabinet where you’d like the shelves to go. Slide in pieces of plywood to sit on top of the corner brackets and act as shelves.\\nIf you’re building wall cabinets, wait to install the shelves until they’re up on the wall. That way, they won’t slide out during installation.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Installing Face Panels and Doors\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add the facing panels.\", \"描述\": \"Assemble the facing panels into one unit like you would assemble a picture frame. You can use flat joints or you can miter them. You can use pocket holes, dowels, or mortise and tenon joints to join the pieces together. Nail and the countersink the nails to attach the completed face to the cabinet.\\nThe facing panels sit in front of the cabinet itself but behind the door.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install the cabinets in their permanent location.\", \"描述\": \"Screw through the back panel and into the wall studs to secure the cabinet in place. Upper cabinets may require more support, such as L brackets (than can be covered up by a backsplash), if you plan to put heavy items, like dishes, in the cabinet.\\nIt’s important to attach cabinets to studs, even if they’re sitting on the ground. Otherwise, heavy items may tip your cabinets over and away from the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the doors using hinges.\", \"描述\": \"Buy cabinet doors and install them using the hinges that are included. Once you add the doors, give your cabinets a nice finish with some wood polish before letting them dry.\\nYou can also install drawers in your cabinets if you’d like to. However, creating drawers is a complicated process, and it’s not easy for a beginner to take on.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Make sure all the blades on the equipment you are using are sharp and tightened into place before using.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,247 |
How to Build a Cajon
|
1. Getting Started
1-1. Get enough plywood to build your cajon.
Generally, a cajon is made of two different thicknesses of wood, thinner for the striking surface and slightly thicker for the rest of the instrument.
Use 1/8 inch plywood for the tapa. The tapa is the striking surface of the instrument, and you'll generally use a piece sized 13 inch by 19 inch for most cajons.
For the other sides of the instrument, use 1/2 inch plywood.
1-2. Cut out the required sheets of plywood.
Prepare the body of the cajon by cutting the correct measurements to form the basic box. Make sure the cuts are very straight by clamping a metal ruler to the sheet of plywood and using a jigsaw or circular saw.
The top and bottom pieces should be 13 inch by 13 inch
The single rear piece should be 13 inch by 18 inch
The sides should be 12 1/2 inch by 18 inch
1-3. Trace a 12cm diameter hole on the rear piece.
Drill a hole towards the edge of the marked sound hole, and use that as a starting point to cut out the sound hole with a jigsaw.
Round and sand the edges to create an even and clean edge.
1-4. Fashion your snares.
One of the distinctive things about the sound of the cajon is the snare-drum-like rattle made when hitting the tapa. This comes from attaching several strings of snares you can either make yourself, salvage from an old snare drum, or use new snares and attach to the inside of the drum.
A snare is basically a string or wire stretched to tension and outfitted with something that rattles. If you wanted to make your own, using old guitar strings, fishing line, or other wire would be perfectly appropriate for a homemade cajon. For rattles, try paperclips, sinkers, or other tiny metal salvaged materials that make a good rattling sound.
2. Gluing the Frame
2-1. Glue the basic frame.
Start with the base and one of the side pieces, applying a liberal amount of wood glue. Next, glue the other side piece and the top to create the basic frame.
Have a helper steady the pieces as you add the glue and keep them as straight as possible, or cut guide pieces to keep inside the box and ensure straight angles.
2-2. Apply pressure.
Big carpentry clamps would be ideal, but luggage straps will do in a pinch. Strap ample pressure to the piece while the wood glue dries. Let it sit for several hours before adding the back, tapa, and snares.
Wipe off any excess glue with a wet cloth and read the instructions for the particular variety of wood glue you purchase for advice about pressure and drying time.
2-3. Attach the snares before gluing on the tapa.
Depending on what you're using for snares, you can do this in a variety of different ways. Ideally, you might purchase some tuning pegs from the music store to be able to "tune" the snares periodically.
Stretch the snares diagonally from the top corners of the side that will be the tapa, roughly 3 inches from each corner on the top and on the side. Screw them in with wood screws, or attach them to tuning pegs for more control over the sound.
2-4. Glue on the tapa and the back piece.
Apply the front and back piece as before and apply pressure for the same length of time. Orient the back piece so that the sound hole is at the base of the instrument, and the snares are at the top. You might also consider applying wood screws for added stability in your instrument. You're going to be sitting on it, so it's worth putting some extra strength into it.
3. Finishing the Cajon
3-1. Cut out feet from leftover pieces of wood and screw them to the bottom.
Rubber or cork can also be used. It's ideal to have a somewhat cushioning surface to set the box on, since it's going to be holding up your weight as well. Putting plywood on the ground can scratch some surfaces.
3-2. Round the top side corners to make it more comfortable to sit on.
Use sandpaper and take some time smoothing out the edges and the surfaces. Sand your cajon with progressively finer sanding paper, then finish to your liking.
3-3. Give it some flair.
Decorate the instrument with your own personal style. Finish it with wood stain for a professional and classy look, or hook it up with psychedelic Neptunes and polar bears for a wild hippie look. Have fun with it.
Warnings
Protect your eyes and ears when working with power tools. Wear safety glasses and earplugs or earmuffs.[3]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Started\\n1-1. Get enough plywood to build your cajon.\\nGenerally, a cajon is made of two different thicknesses of wood, thinner for the striking surface and slightly thicker for the rest of the instrument.\\nUse 1/8 inch plywood for the tapa. The tapa is the striking surface of the instrument, and you'll generally use a piece sized 13 inch by 19 inch for most cajons.\\nFor the other sides of the instrument, use 1/2 inch plywood.\\n1-2. Cut out the required sheets of plywood.\\nPrepare the body of the cajon by cutting the correct measurements to form the basic box. Make sure the cuts are very straight by clamping a metal ruler to the sheet of plywood and using a jigsaw or circular saw.\\nThe top and bottom pieces should be 13 inch by 13 inch\\nThe single rear piece should be 13 inch by 18 inch\\nThe sides should be 12 1/2 inch by 18 inch\\n1-3. Trace a 12cm diameter hole on the rear piece.\\nDrill a hole towards the edge of the marked sound hole, and use that as a starting point to cut out the sound hole with a jigsaw.\\nRound and sand the edges to create an even and clean edge.\\n1-4. Fashion your snares.\\nOne of the distinctive things about the sound of the cajon is the snare-drum-like rattle made when hitting the tapa. This comes from attaching several strings of snares you can either make yourself, salvage from an old snare drum, or use new snares and attach to the inside of the drum.\\nA snare is basically a string or wire stretched to tension and outfitted with something that rattles. If you wanted to make your own, using old guitar strings, fishing line, or other wire would be perfectly appropriate for a homemade cajon. For rattles, try paperclips, sinkers, or other tiny metal salvaged materials that make a good rattling sound.\\n2. Gluing the Frame\\n2-1. Glue the basic frame.\\nStart with the base and one of the side pieces, applying a liberal amount of wood glue. Next, glue the other side piece and the top to create the basic frame.\\nHave a helper steady the pieces as you add the glue and keep them as straight as possible, or cut guide pieces to keep inside the box and ensure straight angles.\\n2-2. Apply pressure.\\nBig carpentry clamps would be ideal, but luggage straps will do in a pinch. Strap ample pressure to the piece while the wood glue dries. Let it sit for several hours before adding the back, tapa, and snares.\\nWipe off any excess glue with a wet cloth and read the instructions for the particular variety of wood glue you purchase for advice about pressure and drying time.\\n2-3. Attach the snares before gluing on the tapa.\\nDepending on what you're using for snares, you can do this in a variety of different ways. Ideally, you might purchase some tuning pegs from the music store to be able to \\\"tune\\\" the snares periodically.\\nStretch the snares diagonally from the top corners of the side that will be the tapa, roughly 3 inches from each corner on the top and on the side. Screw them in with wood screws, or attach them to tuning pegs for more control over the sound.\\n2-4. Glue on the tapa and the back piece.\\nApply the front and back piece as before and apply pressure for the same length of time. Orient the back piece so that the sound hole is at the base of the instrument, and the snares are at the top. You might also consider applying wood screws for added stability in your instrument. You're going to be sitting on it, so it's worth putting some extra strength into it.\\n3. Finishing the Cajon\\n3-1. Cut out feet from leftover pieces of wood and screw them to the bottom.\\nRubber or cork can also be used. It's ideal to have a somewhat cushioning surface to set the box on, since it's going to be holding up your weight as well. Putting plywood on the ground can scratch some surfaces.\\n3-2. Round the top side corners to make it more comfortable to sit on.\\nUse sandpaper and take some time smoothing out the edges and the surfaces. Sand your cajon with progressively finer sanding paper, then finish to your liking.\\n3-3. Give it some flair.\\nDecorate the instrument with your own personal style. Finish it with wood stain for a professional and classy look, or hook it up with psychedelic Neptunes and polar bears for a wild hippie look. Have fun with it.\\nWarnings\\nProtect your eyes and ears when working with power tools. Wear safety glasses and earplugs or earmuffs.[3]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A cajon is a six-sided Peruvian drum that's a popular DIY instrument project. It's a versatile and exciting instrument that can be played with your hands and feet simultaneously, producing a wide variety of tones and rhythms. You can take on this carpentry project with the right materials and a good plan. See Step 1 for more information.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Started\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get enough plywood to build your cajon.\", \"描述\": \"Generally, a cajon is made of two different thicknesses of wood, thinner for the striking surface and slightly thicker for the rest of the instrument.\\nUse 1/8 inch plywood for the tapa. The tapa is the striking surface of the instrument, and you'll generally use a piece sized 13 inch by 19 inch for most cajons.\\nFor the other sides of the instrument, use 1/2 inch plywood.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut out the required sheets of plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Prepare the body of the cajon by cutting the correct measurements to form the basic box. Make sure the cuts are very straight by clamping a metal ruler to the sheet of plywood and using a jigsaw or circular saw.\\nThe top and bottom pieces should be 13 inch by 13 inch\\nThe single rear piece should be 13 inch by 18 inch\\nThe sides should be 12 1/2 inch by 18 inch\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Trace a 12cm diameter hole on the rear piece.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a hole towards the edge of the marked sound hole, and use that as a starting point to cut out the sound hole with a jigsaw.\\nRound and sand the edges to create an even and clean edge.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fashion your snares.\", \"描述\": \"One of the distinctive things about the sound of the cajon is the snare-drum-like rattle made when hitting the tapa. This comes from attaching several strings of snares you can either make yourself, salvage from an old snare drum, or use new snares and attach to the inside of the drum.\\nA snare is basically a string or wire stretched to tension and outfitted with something that rattles. If you wanted to make your own, using old guitar strings, fishing line, or other wire would be perfectly appropriate for a homemade cajon. For rattles, try paperclips, sinkers, or other tiny metal salvaged materials that make a good rattling sound.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gluing the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Glue the basic frame.\", \"描述\": \"Start with the base and one of the side pieces, applying a liberal amount of wood glue. Next, glue the other side piece and the top to create the basic frame.\\nHave a helper steady the pieces as you add the glue and keep them as straight as possible, or cut guide pieces to keep inside the box and ensure straight angles.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply pressure.\", \"描述\": \"Big carpentry clamps would be ideal, but luggage straps will do in a pinch. Strap ample pressure to the piece while the wood glue dries. Let it sit for several hours before adding the back, tapa, and snares.\\nWipe off any excess glue with a wet cloth and read the instructions for the particular variety of wood glue you purchase for advice about pressure and drying time.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the snares before gluing on the tapa.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on what you're using for snares, you can do this in a variety of different ways. Ideally, you might purchase some tuning pegs from the music store to be able to \\\"tune\\\" the snares periodically.\\nStretch the snares diagonally from the top corners of the side that will be the tapa, roughly 3 inches from each corner on the top and on the side. Screw them in with wood screws, or attach them to tuning pegs for more control over the sound.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue on the tapa and the back piece.\", \"描述\": \"Apply the front and back piece as before and apply pressure for the same length of time. Orient the back piece so that the sound hole is at the base of the instrument, and the snares are at the top. You might also consider applying wood screws for added stability in your instrument. You're going to be sitting on it, so it's worth putting some extra strength into it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Cajon\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut out feet from leftover pieces of wood and screw them to the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Rubber or cork can also be used. It's ideal to have a somewhat cushioning surface to set the box on, since it's going to be holding up your weight as well. Putting plywood on the ground can scratch some surfaces.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Round the top side corners to make it more comfortable to sit on.\", \"描述\": \"Use sandpaper and take some time smoothing out the edges and the surfaces. Sand your cajon with progressively finer sanding paper, then finish to your liking.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Give it some flair.\", \"描述\": \"Decorate the instrument with your own personal style. Finish it with wood stain for a professional and classy look, or hook it up with psychedelic Neptunes and polar bears for a wild hippie look. Have fun with it.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Protect your eyes and ears when working with power tools. Wear safety glasses and earplugs or earmuffs.[3]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,248 |
How to Build a Calorimeter
|
1. Building the Calorimeter
1-1. Get a small metal can.
This can will be used to contain water that will be heated as part of the calorimetric measurements. Any small metal can will work, such as those used to package vegetables, or a soda can. Make sure that it is empty, clean, and open on one end. If you are using a soda can, the opening used for drinking out of the can will suffice.
1-2. Get a larger metal can.
You will need a second metal can, large enough that the small metal can will fit inside it with room to spare. Any larger metal can will work, such as a coffee can. Make sure that it is empty, clean, and open on both ends.
1-3. Puncture four small holes in the small can.
Using a hole punch, ice pick, or other implement, carefully puncture four small holes (each one directly across from another) in the small metal can. Position the holes just below the rim of the open end of the can.
1-4. Slide two thin rods between the four holes in the can.
Slide one rod through the can to the other side, then repeat with the other rod and the two remaining holes; the two rods should cross each other. These rods will be used to support the small can in the calorimeter. Temperature-resistant glass rods are ideal. If you do not have any, try any kind of sturdy, nonflammable rod.
1-5. Fill the small can with water.
Using a graduated cylinder, flask, or other container, pour 100 mL of distilled water in the small metal can.
1-6. Measure the temperature of the water.
Using a mercury thermometer (not a digital one), take the initial temperature of your water. You may need to leave the thermometer in the water for some time so that it can get an accurate reading of the water (which may change temperature as it adjusts to room temperature).
Leave the thermometer in the water; you will need it to take another reading later.
1-7. Place the small can inside of the larger one.
The small metal can should rest securely inside the larger one, supported by the rods made of glass or another nonflammable material.
1-8. Unfold a paperclip and insert one end into a cork.
A standard-size paperclip will be used to hold the food inside the calorimeter. Completely unfold the paperclip so that it forms a single long strand. Insert one end of the strand into the cork. Make sure it can stand upright with the unfolded paperclip sticking up.
2. Using the Calorimeter
2-1. Obtain some food to test.
Weigh the food using an accurate scale, and record the measurement. You will only need a small amount of the food. Good choices include a shelled peanut, potato chip, or other high-fat food.
2-2. Prepare the cork food holder.
Carefully wrap the end of the paperclip that is not sticking in the cork around the food you will test (or pierce it with the paperclip).
2-3. Light the food.
Set the cork on a flat, nonflammable surface so that the food on the paperclip is sticking up. Light the food, using a butane lighter or other device. As soon as it catches fire, place the cans over it.
Be very careful lighting the food and placing the cans over it so that you don’t burn yourself.
2-4. Let the food burn.
Keep the cans over the food for as long as it takes to burn completely. As the food burns, it will heat the water in the small can that is suspending in the large can.
Carefully watch the food as it burns. If it goes out quickly, before the food burns completely, relight it.
2-5. Check the temperature of the water.
Once the food has completely burned out, stir the water in the small can using the thermometer. Record the temperature of the heated water.
Be careful moving or touching the calorimeter, as the cans and other parts may be very hot.
2-6. Weigh the burnt food.
Once the burnt food has cooled completely, remove it from the paperclip. Weigh it again, and record the measurement.
3. Calculating
3-1. Understand the formula you will need to calculate calories.
The formula used to determine the caloric value of a sample of food using a homemade calorimeter is relatively simple: calories = volume of water (in mL) x the temperature change (in Celsius) of the water.
3-2. Gather the data you need to calculate.
If you filled the small can with exactly 100 mL of distilled water, then you already know the volume of water (100 mL). If you recorded the initial temperature of the water, and its temperature after the food was burned, you can determine the temperature change by subtracting the smaller value from the larger.
For instance, if the water in the can was initially 35 degrees Celsius, then 39 degrees Celsius after the food was burned, then you have a temperature change of 4 degrees (39-35 = 4).
3-3. Calculate the calories contained in the food.
Using the formula and the data you collected, determine how many calories were in the food you analyzed.
For instance, if you had a temperature change of 4 degrees, then the food contained 400 calories (400 = 100 mL x 4, using the formula calories = volume of water x the temperature change of the water)
To determine Kcal of the food, multiply the temperature change of the water by the volume of water in liters. Using the example above, the sample would contain 0.4 Kcal (0.4 Kcal = 0.100 L water x 4)
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Calorimeter\\n1-1. Get a small metal can.\\nThis can will be used to contain water that will be heated as part of the calorimetric measurements. Any small metal can will work, such as those used to package vegetables, or a soda can. Make sure that it is empty, clean, and open on one end. If you are using a soda can, the opening used for drinking out of the can will suffice.\\n1-2. Get a larger metal can.\\nYou will need a second metal can, large enough that the small metal can will fit inside it with room to spare. Any larger metal can will work, such as a coffee can. Make sure that it is empty, clean, and open on both ends.\\n1-3. Puncture four small holes in the small can.\\nUsing a hole punch, ice pick, or other implement, carefully puncture four small holes (each one directly across from another) in the small metal can. Position the holes just below the rim of the open end of the can.\\n1-4. Slide two thin rods between the four holes in the can.\\nSlide one rod through the can to the other side, then repeat with the other rod and the two remaining holes; the two rods should cross each other. These rods will be used to support the small can in the calorimeter. Temperature-resistant glass rods are ideal. If you do not have any, try any kind of sturdy, nonflammable rod.\\n1-5. Fill the small can with water.\\nUsing a graduated cylinder, flask, or other container, pour 100 mL of distilled water in the small metal can.\\n1-6. Measure the temperature of the water.\\nUsing a mercury thermometer (not a digital one), take the initial temperature of your water. You may need to leave the thermometer in the water for some time so that it can get an accurate reading of the water (which may change temperature as it adjusts to room temperature).\\nLeave the thermometer in the water; you will need it to take another reading later.\\n1-7. Place the small can inside of the larger one.\\nThe small metal can should rest securely inside the larger one, supported by the rods made of glass or another nonflammable material.\\n1-8. Unfold a paperclip and insert one end into a cork.\\nA standard-size paperclip will be used to hold the food inside the calorimeter. Completely unfold the paperclip so that it forms a single long strand. Insert one end of the strand into the cork. Make sure it can stand upright with the unfolded paperclip sticking up.\\n2. Using the Calorimeter\\n2-1. Obtain some food to test.\\nWeigh the food using an accurate scale, and record the measurement. You will only need a small amount of the food. Good choices include a shelled peanut, potato chip, or other high-fat food.\\n2-2. Prepare the cork food holder.\\nCarefully wrap the end of the paperclip that is not sticking in the cork around the food you will test (or pierce it with the paperclip).\\n2-3. Light the food.\\nSet the cork on a flat, nonflammable surface so that the food on the paperclip is sticking up. Light the food, using a butane lighter or other device. As soon as it catches fire, place the cans over it.\\nBe very careful lighting the food and placing the cans over it so that you don’t burn yourself.\\n2-4. Let the food burn.\\nKeep the cans over the food for as long as it takes to burn completely. As the food burns, it will heat the water in the small can that is suspending in the large can.\\nCarefully watch the food as it burns. If it goes out quickly, before the food burns completely, relight it.\\n2-5. Check the temperature of the water.\\nOnce the food has completely burned out, stir the water in the small can using the thermometer. Record the temperature of the heated water.\\nBe careful moving or touching the calorimeter, as the cans and other parts may be very hot.\\n2-6. Weigh the burnt food.\\nOnce the burnt food has cooled completely, remove it from the paperclip. Weigh it again, and record the measurement.\\n3. Calculating\\n3-1. Understand the formula you will need to calculate calories.\\nThe formula used to determine the caloric value of a sample of food using a homemade calorimeter is relatively simple: calories = volume of water (in mL) x the temperature change (in Celsius) of the water.\\n3-2. Gather the data you need to calculate.\\nIf you filled the small can with exactly 100 mL of distilled water, then you already know the volume of water (100 mL). If you recorded the initial temperature of the water, and its temperature after the food was burned, you can determine the temperature change by subtracting the smaller value from the larger.\\nFor instance, if the water in the can was initially 35 degrees Celsius, then 39 degrees Celsius after the food was burned, then you have a temperature change of 4 degrees (39-35 = 4).\\n3-3. Calculate the calories contained in the food.\\nUsing the formula and the data you collected, determine how many calories were in the food you analyzed.\\nFor instance, if you had a temperature change of 4 degrees, then the food contained 400 calories (400 = 100 mL x 4, using the formula calories = volume of water x the temperature change of the water)\\nTo determine Kcal of the food, multiply the temperature change of the water by the volume of water in liters. Using the example above, the sample would contain 0.4 Kcal (0.4 Kcal = 0.100 L water x 4)\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Calorimeters are used to measure potential energy. A calorie is the energy it takes to heat 1 mL of water 1 degree Celsius. These calories are not the same as those used to refer to food on nutrition labels, dietary plans, etc., which are known as Calories or Kcal (1000 normal calories). With some simple, everyday materials, you can construct a homemade calorimeter to determine either the calories or Kcal of a sample of food.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Calorimeter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a small metal can.\", \"描述\": \"This can will be used to contain water that will be heated as part of the calorimetric measurements. Any small metal can will work, such as those used to package vegetables, or a soda can. Make sure that it is empty, clean, and open on one end. If you are using a soda can, the opening used for drinking out of the can will suffice.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get a larger metal can.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a second metal can, large enough that the small metal can will fit inside it with room to spare. Any larger metal can will work, such as a coffee can. Make sure that it is empty, clean, and open on both ends.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Puncture four small holes in the small can.\", \"描述\": \"Using a hole punch, ice pick, or other implement, carefully puncture four small holes (each one directly across from another) in the small metal can. Position the holes just below the rim of the open end of the can.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Slide two thin rods between the four holes in the can.\", \"描述\": \"Slide one rod through the can to the other side, then repeat with the other rod and the two remaining holes; the two rods should cross each other. These rods will be used to support the small can in the calorimeter. Temperature-resistant glass rods are ideal. If you do not have any, try any kind of sturdy, nonflammable rod.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fill the small can with water.\", \"描述\": \"Using a graduated cylinder, flask, or other container, pour 100 mL of distilled water in the small metal can.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Measure the temperature of the water.\", \"描述\": \"Using a mercury thermometer (not a digital one), take the initial temperature of your water. You may need to leave the thermometer in the water for some time so that it can get an accurate reading of the water (which may change temperature as it adjusts to room temperature).\\nLeave the thermometer in the water; you will need it to take another reading later.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place the small can inside of the larger one.\", \"描述\": \"The small metal can should rest securely inside the larger one, supported by the rods made of glass or another nonflammable material.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Unfold a paperclip and insert one end into a cork.\", \"描述\": \"A standard-size paperclip will be used to hold the food inside the calorimeter. Completely unfold the paperclip so that it forms a single long strand. Insert one end of the strand into the cork. Make sure it can stand upright with the unfolded paperclip sticking up.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using the Calorimeter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain some food to test.\", \"描述\": \"Weigh the food using an accurate scale, and record the measurement. You will only need a small amount of the food. Good choices include a shelled peanut, potato chip, or other high-fat food.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare the cork food holder.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully wrap the end of the paperclip that is not sticking in the cork around the food you will test (or pierce it with the paperclip).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Light the food.\", \"描述\": \"Set the cork on a flat, nonflammable surface so that the food on the paperclip is sticking up. Light the food, using a butane lighter or other device. As soon as it catches fire, place the cans over it.\\nBe very careful lighting the food and placing the cans over it so that you don’t burn yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Let the food burn.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the cans over the food for as long as it takes to burn completely. As the food burns, it will heat the water in the small can that is suspending in the large can.\\nCarefully watch the food as it burns. If it goes out quickly, before the food burns completely, relight it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Check the temperature of the water.\", \"描述\": \"Once the food has completely burned out, stir the water in the small can using the thermometer. Record the temperature of the heated water.\\nBe careful moving or touching the calorimeter, as the cans and other parts may be very hot.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Weigh the burnt food.\", \"描述\": \"Once the burnt food has cooled completely, remove it from the paperclip. Weigh it again, and record the measurement.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Calculating\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the formula you will need to calculate calories.\", \"描述\": \"The formula used to determine the caloric value of a sample of food using a homemade calorimeter is relatively simple: calories = volume of water (in mL) x the temperature change (in Celsius) of the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather the data you need to calculate.\", \"描述\": \"If you filled the small can with exactly 100 mL of distilled water, then you already know the volume of water (100 mL). If you recorded the initial temperature of the water, and its temperature after the food was burned, you can determine the temperature change by subtracting the smaller value from the larger.\\nFor instance, if the water in the can was initially 35 degrees Celsius, then 39 degrees Celsius after the food was burned, then you have a temperature change of 4 degrees (39-35 = 4).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Calculate the calories contained in the food.\", \"描述\": \"Using the formula and the data you collected, determine how many calories were in the food you analyzed.\\nFor instance, if you had a temperature change of 4 degrees, then the food contained 400 calories (400 = 100 mL x 4, using the formula calories = volume of water x the temperature change of the water)\\nTo determine Kcal of the food, multiply the temperature change of the water by the volume of water in liters. Using the example above, the sample would contain 0.4 Kcal (0.4 Kcal = 0.100 L water x 4)\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,249 |
How to Build a Campfire
|
1. Build a fire ring in a safe location.
Create a fire ring
Use a shovel to clear a circle of bare dirt about 10 feet (3.0 m) wide. In the center, dig a shallow fire pit 2 feet (0.61 m) wide and 6 inches (15 cm) deep. Use dirt or medium-sized stones from nearby to build a circular barrier around the central pit.
Look for a spot on level ground away from overhanging branches, dry grass, or brush. Stay away from the bases of any hills (escaped fires travel quickly uphill).
Whenever possible, it’s best to use an existing fire ring to safely contain your fire and preserve the beauty of the campground or backcountry.
2. Collect your tinder.
Tinder is any very dry, small material that will catch fire quickly.
Look for tiny dried twigs, dry leaves or grass, or pine needles to start your fire with. You can even use crumpled newspaper or dryer lint from home if you plan ahead. Place your tinder in the center of your fire ring.
More options for making tinder for your fire could be wood chips or shavings, pieces or strips of cardboard, candle wax, cotton balls, or a commercial fire starter.
All of your tinder material—including twigs or sticks—should be small enough to fit in your cupped hands and very thin (around the width of pencil lead).
3. Gather kindling and firewood.
Look on the ground for dry, dead sticks and branches.
The best kindling sticks will be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide and long enough to reach from your elbow to your fingertips. Firewood will be larger—about the thickness of an adult wrist (or more) and as long as an arm.Buy firewood or kindling from a store near the campground if your site or park doesn’t allow collection, like in many national parks.
Only use firewood found or bought near the campsite. Wood from home can harbor pests that can interfere with the site or park’s local ecosystem if they escape and spread.
Keep large piles of kindling and firewood near the fire so you don’t have to leave it unattended to gather more.
4. Arrange the kindling and firewood.
Fires for cooking or for warmth require different arrangements of wood.
While any configuration can technically work, set up your kindling and firewood for success based on your needs. Here are some common and useful ways to build your campfire:
A is simple and effective. Lean your kindling together to make a teepee (cone) shape over your tinder. Leave space between the sticks so air can feed your flames. As the fire grows, add bigger pieces of firewood.
A is great for long lasting warmth. Lay 2 large pieces of firewood parallel to each other. Put 2 more logs on top, perpendicular to the base. Build a few more layers like this, then make a teepee with kindling around the base.
Build a to cook over your open flames. Make a base of 2 or 3 large logs lying horizontally. Then place smaller logs vertically on top. Build a small teepee of kindling at the very top so the fire burns downward.
Build a when you’re low on firewood. Make a small teepee with kindling, then lay several logs around the teepee so that only one end of each log is touching the teepee. The logs will be slowly consumed by the fire.
Make a to protect against wind and rain. Put down one large log, then lean smaller pieces of firewood against it perpendicularly to make a lean-to. Make a mini-teepee under the lean-to.
5. Light the fire.
Ignite the tinder
Once the tinder catches the kindling on fire, keep adding kindling to sustain and grow the flames. Add firewood once the fire is large and stable enough to light bigger pieces of wood. For safety, use only matches, a lighter, or a small amount of lighter fluid if the tinder won’t catch.
As you add wood, leave room for air to circulate within the fire. Only use dry kindling and firewood when possible (it burns easier and smokes less).
Besides lighter fluid, avoid other accelerants (chemicals that ignite raging fires) like gasoline since they can easily burn out of control and become dangerous.
Never squirt or spray lighter fluid or any other chemicals onto embers or an open flame. This could result in sudden flare ups, burns, or spreading the fire.
6. Put out your fire.
Fully extinguish your fire since burnt wood can stay hot for hours.
A gust of wind can reignite or spread embers when you’re not looking, so this is extra important. Check to see if your campfire is still too hot to touch. If it is, pour water over the fire, logs, and pit to put it out completely.
If you don’t have water, cover the embers and logs with dirt. Use a poker or shovel to continually stir the dirt and embers around until they are fully extinguished.
It's best not to use sand to cover a campfire. The fire may look like it's out on the surface but still burn underneath the sand (because it's insulating). If sand is all you have available, make sure to stir it around and put out the embers, not just cover the fire.
A good rule of thumb for putting out campfires is “if it’s too hot to touch, it’s too hot to leave.”
7. Cleanup all traces of your fire.
"Leave no trace” of your fire to reduce your impact on the environment.
Replace any soil you used where you found it, and scatter unburnt wood to make the area look as natural as possible. Make sure your wood or coals are completely burnt and crushed into dust, then scatter them over a large area away from your campsite.
Clean up any litter, including uneaten food you roasted or garbage you burnt, and dispose of it according to the rules of your campsite.
Wait until your fire is completely extinguished and cool before you begin cleanup.
Tips
Only gather dead wood you find on the ground. Never cut or break branches from living or downed trees since they’re part of the local ecosystem and provide food and shelter for animals.[16]
X
Research source
To start a fire with wet wood, make sure that your kindling material is dry to begin with. Build a raised fire bed to keep your fire off the wet ground, and chip away the bark or outer layers of wet firewood to reveal the drier wood inside.[17]
X
Research source
Always review your campground or local area’s rules about where you can build a campfire and how big you’re allowed to make it.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Build a fire ring in a safe location.\\nCreate a fire ring\\nUse a shovel to clear a circle of bare dirt about 10 feet (3.0 m) wide. In the center, dig a shallow fire pit 2 feet (0.61 m) wide and 6 inches (15 cm) deep. Use dirt or medium-sized stones from nearby to build a circular barrier around the central pit.\\nLook for a spot on level ground away from overhanging branches, dry grass, or brush. Stay away from the bases of any hills (escaped fires travel quickly uphill).\\nWhenever possible, it’s best to use an existing fire ring to safely contain your fire and preserve the beauty of the campground or backcountry.\\n2. Collect your tinder.\\nTinder is any very dry, small material that will catch fire quickly.\\nLook for tiny dried twigs, dry leaves or grass, or pine needles to start your fire with. You can even use crumpled newspaper or dryer lint from home if you plan ahead. Place your tinder in the center of your fire ring.\\nMore options for making tinder for your fire could be wood chips or shavings, pieces or strips of cardboard, candle wax, cotton balls, or a commercial fire starter.\\nAll of your tinder material—including twigs or sticks—should be small enough to fit in your cupped hands and very thin (around the width of pencil lead).\\n3. Gather kindling and firewood.\\nLook on the ground for dry, dead sticks and branches.\\nThe best kindling sticks will be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide and long enough to reach from your elbow to your fingertips. Firewood will be larger—about the thickness of an adult wrist (or more) and as long as an arm.Buy firewood or kindling from a store near the campground if your site or park doesn’t allow collection, like in many national parks.\\nOnly use firewood found or bought near the campsite. Wood from home can harbor pests that can interfere with the site or park’s local ecosystem if they escape and spread.\\nKeep large piles of kindling and firewood near the fire so you don’t have to leave it unattended to gather more.\\n4. Arrange the kindling and firewood.\\nFires for cooking or for warmth require different arrangements of wood.\\nWhile any configuration can technically work, set up your kindling and firewood for success based on your needs. Here are some common and useful ways to build your campfire:\\nA is simple and effective. Lean your kindling together to make a teepee (cone) shape over your tinder. Leave space between the sticks so air can feed your flames. As the fire grows, add bigger pieces of firewood.\\nA is great for long lasting warmth. Lay 2 large pieces of firewood parallel to each other. Put 2 more logs on top, perpendicular to the base. Build a few more layers like this, then make a teepee with kindling around the base.\\nBuild a to cook over your open flames. Make a base of 2 or 3 large logs lying horizontally. Then place smaller logs vertically on top. Build a small teepee of kindling at the very top so the fire burns downward.\\nBuild a when you’re low on firewood. Make a small teepee with kindling, then lay several logs around the teepee so that only one end of each log is touching the teepee. The logs will be slowly consumed by the fire.\\nMake a to protect against wind and rain. Put down one large log, then lean smaller pieces of firewood against it perpendicularly to make a lean-to. Make a mini-teepee under the lean-to.\\n5. Light the fire.\\nIgnite the tinder\\nOnce the tinder catches the kindling on fire, keep adding kindling to sustain and grow the flames. Add firewood once the fire is large and stable enough to light bigger pieces of wood. For safety, use only matches, a lighter, or a small amount of lighter fluid if the tinder won’t catch.\\nAs you add wood, leave room for air to circulate within the fire. Only use dry kindling and firewood when possible (it burns easier and smokes less).\\nBesides lighter fluid, avoid other accelerants (chemicals that ignite raging fires) like gasoline since they can easily burn out of control and become dangerous.\\nNever squirt or spray lighter fluid or any other chemicals onto embers or an open flame. This could result in sudden flare ups, burns, or spreading the fire.\\n6. Put out your fire.\\nFully extinguish your fire since burnt wood can stay hot for hours.\\nA gust of wind can reignite or spread embers when you’re not looking, so this is extra important. Check to see if your campfire is still too hot to touch. If it is, pour water over the fire, logs, and pit to put it out completely.\\nIf you don’t have water, cover the embers and logs with dirt. Use a poker or shovel to continually stir the dirt and embers around until they are fully extinguished.\\nIt's best not to use sand to cover a campfire. The fire may look like it's out on the surface but still burn underneath the sand (because it's insulating). If sand is all you have available, make sure to stir it around and put out the embers, not just cover the fire.\\nA good rule of thumb for putting out campfires is “if it’s too hot to touch, it’s too hot to leave.”\\n7. Cleanup all traces of your fire.\\n\\\"Leave no trace” of your fire to reduce your impact on the environment.\\nReplace any soil you used where you found it, and scatter unburnt wood to make the area look as natural as possible. Make sure your wood or coals are completely burnt and crushed into dust, then scatter them over a large area away from your campsite.\\nClean up any litter, including uneaten food you roasted or garbage you burnt, and dispose of it according to the rules of your campsite.\\nWait until your fire is completely extinguished and cool before you begin cleanup.\\nTips\\nOnly gather dead wood you find on the ground. Never cut or break branches from living or downed trees since they’re part of the local ecosystem and provide food and shelter for animals.[16]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nTo start a fire with wet wood, make sure that your kindling material is dry to begin with. Build a raised fire bed to keep your fire off the wet ground, and chip away the bark or outer layers of wet firewood to reveal the drier wood inside.[17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nAlways review your campground or local area’s rules about where you can build a campfire and how big you’re allowed to make it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Summertime isn’t complete without a good ole campfire, but how do you build one? Starting a campfire at a campground or in backcountry is a breeze once you know which sticks to grab and how to arrange them. That’s why we’ve put together a step-by-step guide to safely and successfully building your own friendly campfire. Keep scrolling so you can get to those roasted marshmallows and campfire songs!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a fire ring in a safe location.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a fire ring\", \"描述\": \"Use a shovel to clear a circle of bare dirt about 10 feet (3.0 m) wide. In the center, dig a shallow fire pit 2 feet (0.61 m) wide and 6 inches (15 cm) deep. Use dirt or medium-sized stones from nearby to build a circular barrier around the central pit.\\nLook for a spot on level ground away from overhanging branches, dry grass, or brush. Stay away from the bases of any hills (escaped fires travel quickly uphill).\\nWhenever possible, it’s best to use an existing fire ring to safely contain your fire and preserve the beauty of the campground or backcountry.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Collect your tinder.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Tinder is any very dry, small material that will catch fire quickly.\", \"描述\": \"Look for tiny dried twigs, dry leaves or grass, or pine needles to start your fire with. You can even use crumpled newspaper or dryer lint from home if you plan ahead. Place your tinder in the center of your fire ring.\\nMore options for making tinder for your fire could be wood chips or shavings, pieces or strips of cardboard, candle wax, cotton balls, or a commercial fire starter.\\nAll of your tinder material—including twigs or sticks—should be small enough to fit in your cupped hands and very thin (around the width of pencil lead).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather kindling and firewood.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look on the ground for dry, dead sticks and branches.\", \"描述\": \"The best kindling sticks will be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide and long enough to reach from your elbow to your fingertips. Firewood will be larger—about the thickness of an adult wrist (or more) and as long as an arm.Buy firewood or kindling from a store near the campground if your site or park doesn’t allow collection, like in many national parks.\\nOnly use firewood found or bought near the campsite. Wood from home can harbor pests that can interfere with the site or park’s local ecosystem if they escape and spread.\\nKeep large piles of kindling and firewood near the fire so you don’t have to leave it unattended to gather more.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Arrange the kindling and firewood.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fires for cooking or for warmth require different arrangements of wood.\", \"描述\": \"While any configuration can technically work, set up your kindling and firewood for success based on your needs. Here are some common and useful ways to build your campfire:\\nA is simple and effective. Lean your kindling together to make a teepee (cone) shape over your tinder. Leave space between the sticks so air can feed your flames. As the fire grows, add bigger pieces of firewood.\\nA is great for long lasting warmth. Lay 2 large pieces of firewood parallel to each other. Put 2 more logs on top, perpendicular to the base. Build a few more layers like this, then make a teepee with kindling around the base.\\nBuild a to cook over your open flames. Make a base of 2 or 3 large logs lying horizontally. Then place smaller logs vertically on top. Build a small teepee of kindling at the very top so the fire burns downward.\\nBuild a when you’re low on firewood. Make a small teepee with kindling, then lay several logs around the teepee so that only one end of each log is touching the teepee. The logs will be slowly consumed by the fire.\\nMake a to protect against wind and rain. Put down one large log, then lean smaller pieces of firewood against it perpendicularly to make a lean-to. Make a mini-teepee under the lean-to.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Light the fire.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ignite the tinder\", \"描述\": \"Once the tinder catches the kindling on fire, keep adding kindling to sustain and grow the flames. Add firewood once the fire is large and stable enough to light bigger pieces of wood. For safety, use only matches, a lighter, or a small amount of lighter fluid if the tinder won’t catch.\\nAs you add wood, leave room for air to circulate within the fire. Only use dry kindling and firewood when possible (it burns easier and smokes less).\\nBesides lighter fluid, avoid other accelerants (chemicals that ignite raging fires) like gasoline since they can easily burn out of control and become dangerous.\\nNever squirt or spray lighter fluid or any other chemicals onto embers or an open flame. This could result in sudden flare ups, burns, or spreading the fire.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Put out your fire.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fully extinguish your fire since burnt wood can stay hot for hours.\", \"描述\": \"A gust of wind can reignite or spread embers when you’re not looking, so this is extra important. Check to see if your campfire is still too hot to touch. If it is, pour water over the fire, logs, and pit to put it out completely.\\nIf you don’t have water, cover the embers and logs with dirt. Use a poker or shovel to continually stir the dirt and embers around until they are fully extinguished.\\nIt's best not to use sand to cover a campfire. The fire may look like it's out on the surface but still burn underneath the sand (because it's insulating). If sand is all you have available, make sure to stir it around and put out the embers, not just cover the fire.\\nA good rule of thumb for putting out campfires is “if it’s too hot to touch, it’s too hot to leave.”\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cleanup all traces of your fire.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"\\\"Leave no trace” of your fire to reduce your impact on the environment.\", \"描述\": \"Replace any soil you used where you found it, and scatter unburnt wood to make the area look as natural as possible. Make sure your wood or coals are completely burnt and crushed into dust, then scatter them over a large area away from your campsite.\\nClean up any litter, including uneaten food you roasted or garbage you burnt, and dispose of it according to the rules of your campsite.\\nWait until your fire is completely extinguished and cool before you begin cleanup.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Only gather dead wood you find on the ground. Never cut or break branches from living or downed trees since they’re part of the local ecosystem and provide food and shelter for animals.[16]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"To start a fire with wet wood, make sure that your kindling material is dry to begin with. Build a raised fire bed to keep your fire off the wet ground, and chip away the bark or outer layers of wet firewood to reveal the drier wood inside.[17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Always review your campground or local area’s rules about where you can build a campfire and how big you’re allowed to make it.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,250 |
How to Build a Campfire Pit
|
1. Selecting the Area for the Pit
1-1. Make sure it’s legal to start a fire in your area.
Before you build a campfire pit, you need to make sure it’s allowed and if there any special steps or precautions that you’re required to take. If you’re at a campground or a park, ask the park ranger or check the rules about building a fire. There may be rules about where or how large of a fire you can build. If you’re not sure, don’t build a fire!
Check the local fire-danger level, which is usually displayed at ranger stations or along roads. If you can’t find one, try looking online or calling the local government office.
Respect established fire pits. Do not make a new fire pit unless it is necessary. Using established fire pits avoids damaging the soil and local flora.
1-2. Select a flat spot away from trees, dry grass, and lots of leaves.
Low hanging branches from trees and lots of brush or dry grass can easily catch fire and get out of control quickly. Choosing flat and level ground to build a campfire pit will also help prevent any coals or embers from rolling away. A good rule of thumb is to choose an area that is at least 5–10 feet (1.5–3.0 m) away from trees and brush.
1-3. Pick a spot that protects your fire pit from the wind.
Take note of strong prevailing winds and choose a location that is protected from direct exposure to them. Strong winds can blow coals from the fire and spread it. Try to avoid building a campfire pit in an open area exposed to high winds.
Use natural features like hills or boulders to shield your fire pit from the wind.
Arrange your camp so that the wind is at your back to block or deflect it from blowing directly onto your fire.
If the wind is strong enough to blow debris around, it’s too windy to start a fire!
1-4. Choose a place at least 15 feet (4.6 m) away from your lodging.
It may be tempting to build a nice fire near the entrance of your cabin or tent to help keep warm, but the materials that make up your tent, cabin, or other form of lodging may not need to be exposed to a direct flame to heat up and catch fire. Be sure to choose a place for your fire pit that’s far enough away from your lodging and camping supplies.
Don’t place a sleeping bag next to a campfire because the material could catch fire before you notice it!
2. Building a Containment Ring
2-1. Clear an area at least 10 feet (3.0 m) around the pit.
Before you start to build the containment ring for your fire, you should remove any fire hazards that could cause the fire to spread. Pick up any sticks, leaves, or other flammable material around the area of your fire pit.
Even if the leaves or branches are damp, you still need to clear them from the area because they could dry out and catch fire.
Try to rake up any dry leaves as well.
2-2. Dig out a bowl-shaped indentation about 5 inches (13 cm) deep.
A small indentation in the ground will help contain the coals and protect them from the wind. It also allows your fire to burn bright and hot with less smoke because the coals are concentrated in the bowl. Use a shovel or a sturdy stick to dig out the indentation.
The width of the bowl could vary depending on how large of a fire you’re building, but a 1 foot (0.30 m) diameter bowl should be sufficient for most campfires.
2-3. Use rocks or large logs to form a 2 feet (0.61 m) diameter ring.
Rocks that are fist-sized or larger are great for making a containment ring. Place them side by side without any gaps in between them to form a containment circle. You could also use large logs to make a ring around the fire pit—just make sure they’re not so dry that they’ll catch fire easily.
A ring with a 2 feet (0.61 m) diameter should be large enough for a medium-sized fire, but you can make a larger ring if needed.
2-4. Build a fire
Gather some small brush or leaves for tinder, some dry, medium-sized branches for kindling, and larger dry logs to use as fuel for your fire. Make a teepee structure with your tinder and kindling and light the tinder at the center of the teepee. Add the larger logs when the fire gets going.
You’ll need about 4-5 logs to keep a campfire burning for 2 hours, so make sure you gather enough.
Keep the logs you plan to use as fuel at least 10 feet (3.0 m) away from the fire pit so there’s no chance they could catch fire.
Make sure you gather enough fuel to last for as long as you need a fire.
Bring your own firewood if there isn’t any available around you or if you’re not permitted to collect it. Contact a park ranger or a local government office to make sure you can gather and burn wood around you.
2-5. Keep a bucket that holds 2 gallons (7.6 L) of water nearby.
It’s always a good idea to keep a bucket or large container of water near the area of the fire pit in case you need to put out any sparks or embers that pop out of the fire. A fire can get out of control quickly, so keep enough water to put the whole fire out at a moment’s notice.
Always put out your fire when you are ready to leave. Soak the pit with water before you leave, even if you let the fire die out on its own.
Keep a fire extinguisher on hand as well to prevent a possible forest fire.
Having water nearby also makes the job of extinguishing the fire quick and easy.
If you don't have water, you may also use dirt or sand to cover the embers.
Warnings
Never leave a campfire unattended. Make sure your fire is completely extinguished before you leave the area or go to sleep.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Selecting the Area for the Pit\\n1-1. Make sure it’s legal to start a fire in your area.\\nBefore you build a campfire pit, you need to make sure it’s allowed and if there any special steps or precautions that you’re required to take. If you’re at a campground or a park, ask the park ranger or check the rules about building a fire. There may be rules about where or how large of a fire you can build. If you’re not sure, don’t build a fire!\\nCheck the local fire-danger level, which is usually displayed at ranger stations or along roads. If you can’t find one, try looking online or calling the local government office.\\nRespect established fire pits. Do not make a new fire pit unless it is necessary. Using established fire pits avoids damaging the soil and local flora.\\n1-2. Select a flat spot away from trees, dry grass, and lots of leaves.\\nLow hanging branches from trees and lots of brush or dry grass can easily catch fire and get out of control quickly. Choosing flat and level ground to build a campfire pit will also help prevent any coals or embers from rolling away. A good rule of thumb is to choose an area that is at least 5–10 feet (1.5–3.0 m) away from trees and brush.\\n1-3. Pick a spot that protects your fire pit from the wind.\\nTake note of strong prevailing winds and choose a location that is protected from direct exposure to them. Strong winds can blow coals from the fire and spread it. Try to avoid building a campfire pit in an open area exposed to high winds.\\nUse natural features like hills or boulders to shield your fire pit from the wind.\\nArrange your camp so that the wind is at your back to block or deflect it from blowing directly onto your fire.\\nIf the wind is strong enough to blow debris around, it’s too windy to start a fire!\\n1-4. Choose a place at least 15 feet (4.6 m) away from your lodging.\\nIt may be tempting to build a nice fire near the entrance of your cabin or tent to help keep warm, but the materials that make up your tent, cabin, or other form of lodging may not need to be exposed to a direct flame to heat up and catch fire. Be sure to choose a place for your fire pit that’s far enough away from your lodging and camping supplies.\\nDon’t place a sleeping bag next to a campfire because the material could catch fire before you notice it!\\n2. Building a Containment Ring\\n2-1. Clear an area at least 10 feet (3.0 m) around the pit.\\nBefore you start to build the containment ring for your fire, you should remove any fire hazards that could cause the fire to spread. Pick up any sticks, leaves, or other flammable material around the area of your fire pit.\\nEven if the leaves or branches are damp, you still need to clear them from the area because they could dry out and catch fire.\\nTry to rake up any dry leaves as well.\\n2-2. Dig out a bowl-shaped indentation about 5 inches (13 cm) deep.\\nA small indentation in the ground will help contain the coals and protect them from the wind. It also allows your fire to burn bright and hot with less smoke because the coals are concentrated in the bowl. Use a shovel or a sturdy stick to dig out the indentation.\\nThe width of the bowl could vary depending on how large of a fire you’re building, but a 1 foot (0.30 m) diameter bowl should be sufficient for most campfires.\\n2-3. Use rocks or large logs to form a 2 feet (0.61 m) diameter ring.\\nRocks that are fist-sized or larger are great for making a containment ring. Place them side by side without any gaps in between them to form a containment circle. You could also use large logs to make a ring around the fire pit—just make sure they’re not so dry that they’ll catch fire easily.\\nA ring with a 2 feet (0.61 m) diameter should be large enough for a medium-sized fire, but you can make a larger ring if needed.\\n2-4. Build a fire\\nGather some small brush or leaves for tinder, some dry, medium-sized branches for kindling, and larger dry logs to use as fuel for your fire. Make a teepee structure with your tinder and kindling and light the tinder at the center of the teepee. Add the larger logs when the fire gets going.\\nYou’ll need about 4-5 logs to keep a campfire burning for 2 hours, so make sure you gather enough.\\nKeep the logs you plan to use as fuel at least 10 feet (3.0 m) away from the fire pit so there’s no chance they could catch fire.\\nMake sure you gather enough fuel to last for as long as you need a fire.\\nBring your own firewood if there isn’t any available around you or if you’re not permitted to collect it. Contact a park ranger or a local government office to make sure you can gather and burn wood around you.\\n2-5. Keep a bucket that holds 2 gallons (7.6 L) of water nearby.\\nIt’s always a good idea to keep a bucket or large container of water near the area of the fire pit in case you need to put out any sparks or embers that pop out of the fire. A fire can get out of control quickly, so keep enough water to put the whole fire out at a moment’s notice.\\nAlways put out your fire when you are ready to leave. Soak the pit with water before you leave, even if you let the fire die out on its own.\\nKeep a fire extinguisher on hand as well to prevent a possible forest fire.\\nHaving water nearby also makes the job of extinguishing the fire quick and easy.\\nIf you don't have water, you may also use dirt or sand to cover the embers.\\nWarnings\\nNever leave a campfire unattended. Make sure your fire is completely extinguished before you leave the area or go to sleep.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Enjoying a night under the stars in the great outdoors with a crackling campfire nearby is tough to beat. However, it's important to remember that a successful campfire is a safe campfire. Choosing the right spot for your fire, crafting a containment ring to keep the coals from escaping, and keeping supplies handy to quickly extinguish the flames are the keys to building a safe campfire.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Selecting the Area for the Pit\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure it’s legal to start a fire in your area.\", \"描述\": \"Before you build a campfire pit, you need to make sure it’s allowed and if there any special steps or precautions that you’re required to take. If you’re at a campground or a park, ask the park ranger or check the rules about building a fire. There may be rules about where or how large of a fire you can build. If you’re not sure, don’t build a fire!\\nCheck the local fire-danger level, which is usually displayed at ranger stations or along roads. If you can’t find one, try looking online or calling the local government office.\\nRespect established fire pits. Do not make a new fire pit unless it is necessary. Using established fire pits avoids damaging the soil and local flora.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Select a flat spot away from trees, dry grass, and lots of leaves.\", \"描述\": \"Low hanging branches from trees and lots of brush or dry grass can easily catch fire and get out of control quickly. Choosing flat and level ground to build a campfire pit will also help prevent any coals or embers from rolling away. A good rule of thumb is to choose an area that is at least 5–10 feet (1.5–3.0 m) away from trees and brush.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pick a spot that protects your fire pit from the wind.\", \"描述\": \"Take note of strong prevailing winds and choose a location that is protected from direct exposure to them. Strong winds can blow coals from the fire and spread it. Try to avoid building a campfire pit in an open area exposed to high winds.\\nUse natural features like hills or boulders to shield your fire pit from the wind.\\nArrange your camp so that the wind is at your back to block or deflect it from blowing directly onto your fire.\\nIf the wind is strong enough to blow debris around, it’s too windy to start a fire!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose a place at least 15 feet (4.6 m) away from your lodging.\", \"描述\": \"It may be tempting to build a nice fire near the entrance of your cabin or tent to help keep warm, but the materials that make up your tent, cabin, or other form of lodging may not need to be exposed to a direct flame to heat up and catch fire. Be sure to choose a place for your fire pit that’s far enough away from your lodging and camping supplies.\\nDon’t place a sleeping bag next to a campfire because the material could catch fire before you notice it!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Containment Ring\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Clear an area at least 10 feet (3.0 m) around the pit.\", \"描述\": \"Before you start to build the containment ring for your fire, you should remove any fire hazards that could cause the fire to spread. Pick up any sticks, leaves, or other flammable material around the area of your fire pit.\\nEven if the leaves or branches are damp, you still need to clear them from the area because they could dry out and catch fire.\\nTry to rake up any dry leaves as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig out a bowl-shaped indentation about 5 inches (13 cm) deep.\", \"描述\": \"A small indentation in the ground will help contain the coals and protect them from the wind. It also allows your fire to burn bright and hot with less smoke because the coals are concentrated in the bowl. Use a shovel or a sturdy stick to dig out the indentation.\\nThe width of the bowl could vary depending on how large of a fire you’re building, but a 1 foot (0.30 m) diameter bowl should be sufficient for most campfires.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use rocks or large logs to form a 2 feet (0.61 m) diameter ring.\", \"描述\": \"Rocks that are fist-sized or larger are great for making a containment ring. Place them side by side without any gaps in between them to form a containment circle. You could also use large logs to make a ring around the fire pit—just make sure they’re not so dry that they’ll catch fire easily.\\nA ring with a 2 feet (0.61 m) diameter should be large enough for a medium-sized fire, but you can make a larger ring if needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build a fire\", \"描述\": \"Gather some small brush or leaves for tinder, some dry, medium-sized branches for kindling, and larger dry logs to use as fuel for your fire. Make a teepee structure with your tinder and kindling and light the tinder at the center of the teepee. Add the larger logs when the fire gets going.\\nYou’ll need about 4-5 logs to keep a campfire burning for 2 hours, so make sure you gather enough.\\nKeep the logs you plan to use as fuel at least 10 feet (3.0 m) away from the fire pit so there’s no chance they could catch fire.\\nMake sure you gather enough fuel to last for as long as you need a fire.\\nBring your own firewood if there isn’t any available around you or if you’re not permitted to collect it. Contact a park ranger or a local government office to make sure you can gather and burn wood around you.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Keep a bucket that holds 2 gallons (7.6 L) of water nearby.\", \"描述\": \"It’s always a good idea to keep a bucket or large container of water near the area of the fire pit in case you need to put out any sparks or embers that pop out of the fire. A fire can get out of control quickly, so keep enough water to put the whole fire out at a moment’s notice.\\nAlways put out your fire when you are ready to leave. Soak the pit with water before you leave, even if you let the fire die out on its own.\\nKeep a fire extinguisher on hand as well to prevent a possible forest fire.\\nHaving water nearby also makes the job of extinguishing the fire quick and easy.\\nIf you don't have water, you may also use dirt or sand to cover the embers.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Never leave a campfire unattended. Make sure your fire is completely extinguished before you leave the area or go to sleep.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,251 |
How to Build a Capacitor
|
1. Steps
1-1. Fill a non-metallic vessel (such as a paper cup, or a plastic bottle) with warm saltwater.
Use warm water to dissolve the salt.
1-2. Wrap the outside of the vessel with aluminum foil, or tin foil.
1-3. Place a metal object (such as a knife, a nail, etc) in the saltwater.
The foil is one terminal, and the water/metal object combination is the other. Do not allow the water or the metal object to touch the foil or spill over the side. This will short the capacitor and make it impossible to charge.
Later you can use a voltmeter to verify if the capacitor can hold a charge.
1-4. Charge it up, by applying the voltage from an ordinary household battery, to both terminals.
After a few seconds disconnect the battery and connect the voltmeter to the terminals of the capacitor. Any reading (mV-V) will indicate a charge.
1-5. Congratulations, you have a working capacitor, capable of holding an electric charge!
Tips
You can charge it up with a battery, or with static electricity. You cannot charge a capacitor with an alternating current, only with a direct current.
Warnings
Capacitors are very dangerous. Do not touch one after it has been charged by a power source, because it will shock you.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Fill a non-metallic vessel (such as a paper cup, or a plastic bottle) with warm saltwater.\\nUse warm water to dissolve the salt.\\n1-2. Wrap the outside of the vessel with aluminum foil, or tin foil.\\n\\n1-3. Place a metal object (such as a knife, a nail, etc) in the saltwater.\\nThe foil is one terminal, and the water/metal object combination is the other. Do not allow the water or the metal object to touch the foil or spill over the side. This will short the capacitor and make it impossible to charge. \\nLater you can use a voltmeter to verify if the capacitor can hold a charge.\\n1-4. Charge it up, by applying the voltage from an ordinary household battery, to both terminals.\\nAfter a few seconds disconnect the battery and connect the voltmeter to the terminals of the capacitor. Any reading (mV-V) will indicate a charge.\\n1-5. Congratulations, you have a working capacitor, capable of holding an electric charge!\\n\\nTips\\nYou can charge it up with a battery, or with static electricity. You cannot charge a capacitor with an alternating current, only with a direct current.\\nWarnings\\nCapacitors are very dangerous. Do not touch one after it has been charged by a power source, because it will shock you.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Capacitors range from a simple, low-voltage setup to complex high-voltage machinery. If you just want to try your hand at making a simple capactior, our how-to guide will show you how!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fill a non-metallic vessel (such as a paper cup, or a plastic bottle) with warm saltwater.\", \"描述\": \"Use warm water to dissolve the salt.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wrap the outside of the vessel with aluminum foil, or tin foil.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place a metal object (such as a knife, a nail, etc) in the saltwater.\", \"描述\": \"The foil is one terminal, and the water/metal object combination is the other. Do not allow the water or the metal object to touch the foil or spill over the side. This will short the capacitor and make it impossible to charge. \\nLater you can use a voltmeter to verify if the capacitor can hold a charge.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Charge it up, by applying the voltage from an ordinary household battery, to both terminals.\", \"描述\": \"After a few seconds disconnect the battery and connect the voltmeter to the terminals of the capacitor. Any reading (mV-V) will indicate a charge.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Congratulations, you have a working capacitor, capable of holding an electric charge!\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can charge it up with a battery, or with static electricity. You cannot charge a capacitor with an alternating current, only with a direct current.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Capacitors are very dangerous. Do not touch one after it has been charged by a power source, because it will shock you.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,252 |
How to Build a Captain's Bed from Two Dressers
|
1. Steps
1-1. Measure the dressers to get an idea of how the mattress will fit on them.
A standard queen mattress is 60" wide and 80" long. A full size is 54" wide and 75" long. The dressers used in this tutorial are 72" long and 22" wide. To make a queen sized bed, add 4" to the head and foot ends for length and leave a 17" gap between the dressers for width.
If there is a rail against the back as there is here it can be easily removed with a screwdriver. You can reuse it for the side rails of the bed.
1-2. Replace the original flat brackets with new L-brackets to attach it to the top of the dresser.
Here you can see both the original and new ones.
1-3. Center the rail on the front edge of the top of the dresser, just above the drawers.
Mark and drill pilot holes and attach the rail to the top with screws. Remove the top drawers and check the construction of the dresser to find appropriate places to attach it. Select the length of screws you use carefully so the sharp ends won't protrude into your dresser.
You can see here, the rail is now above the drawers. It will keep the box spring or mattress from shifting side to side.
1-4. Add two shelf brackets to each end of each dresser.
Again, look inside the dressers to place your brackets where there is wood to attach them. The top of the bracket should be flush with the top of the dresser. Mark and drill pilot holes and attach the shelf brackets with screws.
1-5. The bed will be very heavy once attached, so position your dressers approximately where you would like the bed to stay.
Leave enough room at each end to access the shelf brackets. Measure the width and adjust the dressers until they are approximately 1/4" wider than your mattress size. Aim for a snug fit. Use a level to make sure they are parallel and even.
1-6. You will need about five slats to support your box spring or platform.
Three in the middle can be 3-4" wide and as long as your mattress is wide (60" for a queen, 54" for a full). The two end ones may need to be longer to add length. In this case, it was necessary to add 4" on each end, so the boards are 7-8" wide.
1-7. Flip the end boards over and mark a line where the overhang should be (4" in this case) along the length of the board.
Turn them over and line it up along the edge of both dressers. Attach the end boards to the shelf brackets with screws.
1-8. Attach two corner brackets to each end board to hold the box spring or mattress in place head to foot.
1-9. With help, slide the finished bed into place.
1-10. You have a choice here:
use a box spring or create a platform. Use a box spring if you already have the mattress set. It does create a very high bed, you might need a step to climb in and out. If you'd rather create a platform bed, cut two pieces of plywood to fit your bed, so that the joint between them falls directly onto one of your slats. Secure with screws and place the mattress on this platform. Otherwise, simply place the box spring into place and top with the mattress.
Tips
Plan ahead so you get all the hardware ahead of time. Once you have everything, the construction should take a couple hours, but running back and forth for parts will slow things down considerably.
Investigate the dressers ahead of time to be sure they are sturdy and strong. Also, they should have sufficient structural pieces to drill and screw into.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Measure the dressers to get an idea of how the mattress will fit on them.\\nA standard queen mattress is 60\\\" wide and 80\\\" long. A full size is 54\\\" wide and 75\\\" long. The dressers used in this tutorial are 72\\\" long and 22\\\" wide. To make a queen sized bed, add 4\\\" to the head and foot ends for length and leave a 17\\\" gap between the dressers for width.\\nIf there is a rail against the back as there is here it can be easily removed with a screwdriver. You can reuse it for the side rails of the bed.\\n1-2. Replace the original flat brackets with new L-brackets to attach it to the top of the dresser.\\nHere you can see both the original and new ones.\\n1-3. Center the rail on the front edge of the top of the dresser, just above the drawers.\\nMark and drill pilot holes and attach the rail to the top with screws. Remove the top drawers and check the construction of the dresser to find appropriate places to attach it. Select the length of screws you use carefully so the sharp ends won't protrude into your dresser.\\nYou can see here, the rail is now above the drawers. It will keep the box spring or mattress from shifting side to side.\\n1-4. Add two shelf brackets to each end of each dresser.\\nAgain, look inside the dressers to place your brackets where there is wood to attach them. The top of the bracket should be flush with the top of the dresser. Mark and drill pilot holes and attach the shelf brackets with screws.\\n1-5. The bed will be very heavy once attached, so position your dressers approximately where you would like the bed to stay.\\nLeave enough room at each end to access the shelf brackets. Measure the width and adjust the dressers until they are approximately 1/4\\\" wider than your mattress size. Aim for a snug fit. Use a level to make sure they are parallel and even.\\n1-6. You will need about five slats to support your box spring or platform.\\nThree in the middle can be 3-4\\\" wide and as long as your mattress is wide (60\\\" for a queen, 54\\\" for a full). The two end ones may need to be longer to add length. In this case, it was necessary to add 4\\\" on each end, so the boards are 7-8\\\" wide.\\n1-7. Flip the end boards over and mark a line where the overhang should be (4\\\" in this case) along the length of the board.\\nTurn them over and line it up along the edge of both dressers. Attach the end boards to the shelf brackets with screws.\\n1-8. Attach two corner brackets to each end board to hold the box spring or mattress in place head to foot.\\n\\n1-9. With help, slide the finished bed into place.\\n\\n1-10. You have a choice here:\\nuse a box spring or create a platform. Use a box spring if you already have the mattress set. It does create a very high bed, you might need a step to climb in and out. If you'd rather create a platform bed, cut two pieces of plywood to fit your bed, so that the joint between them falls directly onto one of your slats. Secure with screws and place the mattress on this platform. Otherwise, simply place the box spring into place and top with the mattress.\\nTips\\nPlan ahead so you get all the hardware ahead of time. Once you have everything, the construction should take a couple hours, but running back and forth for parts will slow things down considerably.\\nInvestigate the dressers ahead of time to be sure they are sturdy and strong. Also, they should have sufficient structural pieces to drill and screw into.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you have two long dressers that are very sturdy, you can turn them into a queen-sized captain's bed to save space. Then you'll have plenty of clothes storage under the bed and the room will feel much more spacious.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the dressers to get an idea of how the mattress will fit on them.\", \"描述\": \"A standard queen mattress is 60\\\" wide and 80\\\" long. A full size is 54\\\" wide and 75\\\" long. The dressers used in this tutorial are 72\\\" long and 22\\\" wide. To make a queen sized bed, add 4\\\" to the head and foot ends for length and leave a 17\\\" gap between the dressers for width.\\nIf there is a rail against the back as there is here it can be easily removed with a screwdriver. You can reuse it for the side rails of the bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Replace the original flat brackets with new L-brackets to attach it to the top of the dresser.\", \"描述\": \"Here you can see both the original and new ones.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Center the rail on the front edge of the top of the dresser, just above the drawers.\", \"描述\": \"Mark and drill pilot holes and attach the rail to the top with screws. Remove the top drawers and check the construction of the dresser to find appropriate places to attach it. Select the length of screws you use carefully so the sharp ends won't protrude into your dresser.\\nYou can see here, the rail is now above the drawers. It will keep the box spring or mattress from shifting side to side.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add two shelf brackets to each end of each dresser.\", \"描述\": \"Again, look inside the dressers to place your brackets where there is wood to attach them. The top of the bracket should be flush with the top of the dresser. Mark and drill pilot holes and attach the shelf brackets with screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"The bed will be very heavy once attached, so position your dressers approximately where you would like the bed to stay.\", \"描述\": \"Leave enough room at each end to access the shelf brackets. Measure the width and adjust the dressers until they are approximately 1/4\\\" wider than your mattress size. Aim for a snug fit. Use a level to make sure they are parallel and even.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"You will need about five slats to support your box spring or platform.\", \"描述\": \"Three in the middle can be 3-4\\\" wide and as long as your mattress is wide (60\\\" for a queen, 54\\\" for a full). The two end ones may need to be longer to add length. In this case, it was necessary to add 4\\\" on each end, so the boards are 7-8\\\" wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Flip the end boards over and mark a line where the overhang should be (4\\\" in this case) along the length of the board.\", \"描述\": \"Turn them over and line it up along the edge of both dressers. Attach the end boards to the shelf brackets with screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach two corner brackets to each end board to hold the box spring or mattress in place head to foot.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"With help, slide the finished bed into place.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"You have a choice here:\", \"描述\": \"use a box spring or create a platform. Use a box spring if you already have the mattress set. It does create a very high bed, you might need a step to climb in and out. If you'd rather create a platform bed, cut two pieces of plywood to fit your bed, so that the joint between them falls directly onto one of your slats. Secure with screws and place the mattress on this platform. Otherwise, simply place the box spring into place and top with the mattress.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Plan ahead so you get all the hardware ahead of time. Once you have everything, the construction should take a couple hours, but running back and forth for parts will slow things down considerably.\\n\", \"Investigate the dressers ahead of time to be sure they are sturdy and strong. Also, they should have sufficient structural pieces to drill and screw into.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,253 |
DIY Cardboard Boat That Won’t Sink
|
1. Designing the Boat
1-1. Check the rules if you’re entering your boat in a contest.
As a general rule of thumb, stick with corrugated cardboard, cardboard blocks, cardboard tubes, duct or masking tape, glue, latex paint, and varnish for your boat. Most regattas have a pretty strict list of materials that you can and can’t use, so you don’t want to get disqualified before the race even starts!
Many regattas ban materials like wood, styrofoam, plastic sheathing, metal, and fiberglass. Coated cardboard is often off-limits as well, along with caulk, staples, clamps, and screws. Basically, your boat can only be made with cardboard, paint, and some type of basic adhesive.
Contest rules also limit the types of boats you can make. Raft- and canoe-style boats make the cut, while surfboard-style boats typically aren’t allowed.
1-2. Build a flat-bottom boat to prevent it from tipping in the water.
A flat-bottomed boat offers lots of stability, which is great if you’re racing across a pool or lake. Boats with V-shaped bottoms have a greater chance of capsizing once you’re in the water.
1-3. Design the boat to be 18-48 in (46-122 cm) wide and 18 in (36 cm) tall.
If you’re sailing solo, 18-30 in (46-76 cm) gives you enough wiggle room along the width of your boat. If you’re planning on sitting side-by-side with someone in your boat, give yourself 48 in (122 cm) of breathing room. Then, plan for your boat to be about 18 in (36 cm) high—this gives you enough space to paddle in the boat while kneeling or sitting down.
1-4. Make the boat between 8 and 12 ft (2.4 and 3.7 m) long.
Factor in your crew size when you’re finalizing the dimensions of your boat. An 8 ft (2.4 m) long boat might be best if you’re sailing by yourself, while a 12 ft (3.7 m) long boat would work better for a larger crew.
Your boat’s length plays a big role in how easy (or hard!) it is to control. Boats that are less than 10 ft (3.0 m) long are difficult to keep pointed in one direction, while boats that are more than 12 ft (3.7 m) long can be difficult to turn.
1-5. Give your boat a pointed bow if you’d like it to go faster.
When your boat has a squared-off bow, the water hits the very front of the boat and creates some water resistance. When your boat has a triangular front, you run into far less of that water resistance—this makes you cut faster through the water!
This isn’t to say that there’s anything wrong with a simple, squared-off bow! Plenty of people have entered regattas with square boats. Plus, a square-shaped boat works well with certain themes and decorations, like a school bus or fire truck.
1-6. Build a horizontal block across the boat to give it extra support.
Plan on making a “support block” that spans horizontally along your boat. You can either position this piece so it separates the hull from the crew compartment, or put it in the center of the boat to create 2 separate crew compartments—just be sure to balance the weight in each.
1-7. Multiply the boat’s volume by 62.4 (28.3 metric) to ensure it can hold your crew.
Find the volume of your boat by multiplying the width by the height and length. Then, multiply this number by 62.4 (26.3), since water weights 62.4 lb per cubic foot (28.3 kg per cubic meter). This number is the total amount of weight your boat can support without sinking.
For instance, if the boat is 10 ft (3.0 m) long, 3 ft (0.91 m) wide, and 1 ft (0.30 m) tall, the volume is 30 ft (0.819 m). Multiply 30 cu ft (0.819 m by 62.4 lb/cu ft (1,000 kg/m), which gives you 1,872 lbs (819 kg). In other words, your boat can support 1,872 lbs (819 kg) of combined weight without sinking.
Believe it or not, a 1 by 1 by 3 ft (0.30 by 0.30 by 0.91 m) box can support someone who weighs up to 187 lb (85 kg) without sinking. If your boat is large enough to physically hold you, it’s likely sturdy enough to float.
1-8. Build and test a small, to-scale model of your boat design to make sure it works.
Grab a manila folder or piece of thin cardboard—this will be sturdy enough to make your mini boat. Fold and cut the material into your design so you can see if the structure seems viable or not.
An easy way to scale down the dimensions of your boat is to use the same number of smaller units. For example, if your finished boat will be 10 by 3 by 1 ft (3.05 by 0.91 by 0.30 m), switch the units to inches to make the boat smaller but keep the model proportionate. In this case, you’d make your model 10 by 3 by 1 in (25.4 by 7.6 by 2.5 cm).
Stick a couple of coins or rocks into your boat to represent you and your fellow crew members.
Don’t be discouraged if your first model doesn’t work out. It’s better to work out the kinks in the planning phase than to have a huge chunk of cardboard that doesn’t float properly!
2. Constructing the Boat
2-1. Build your boat with big, flat sheets of corrugated cardboard.
Stop by your local pharmacy, recycling center, or big-box store and see if they have any spare cardboard boxes they’re tossing away. Grab as many sheets of corrugated cardboard from these places as you can—this type of cardboard is much sturdier and will give your boat much more structure.
Grocery stores, fast food restaurants, bookstores, coffee shops, and schools might also have leftover boxes they’re no longer using. You also check out sites like CraigsList and Freecycle to see if people in your community have some extra cardboard lying around.
2-2. Cut or fold the pieces of cardboard together to shape your boat.
Reference the sketch and model you made earlier to guide your work. Using a box cutter, carefully slice any smaller pieces or components from a larger sheet of cardboard. To fold the cardboard, just crease it with the blunt bottom of your box cutter (make sure it’s retracted first!).
You can also use a tool like a screen roller to crease the cardboard.
2-3. Paint the cardboard
Pull out your paint color of choice and go over all of the cardboard you’d like to paint. Latex paint takes around 4 hours to completely dry, so make sure your cardboard has enough time to air-dry between coats.
House paint works really well for cardboard boats.
Any type of water-based paint will work for this project.
2-4. Glue the pieces of cardboard together and clamp them in place.
Grab a bottle of carpenter’s glue or Liquid Nails—these are pretty heavy-duty and will give your boat a lot of structure. Thoroughly coat 1 of the joints or pieces of cardboard with an even layer of glue and stick it to the adjoining piece. Then, secure the pieces with clamps to make sure that the cardboard doesn’t move or come apart. Wait for the glue to dry completely before removing the clamps.
Check your glue’s packaging to see how much time it needs to dry and cure.
Never use hot glue for this—it could melt in the hot weather when you’re outside.
2-5. Add an extra layer of cardboard on top of the first layer for reinforcement.
Once you’ve built a basic framework for your boat, glue an extra layer to the outside of your boat with polyurethane adhesive. An extra layer of cardboard help make your boat’s hull extra sturdy. Clamp the pieces of cardboard together to help them dry in the correct shape.
Layer the sheets of cardboard so the corrugations in each sheet run in perpendicular directions.
Give the bottom of your boat some extra security with 2 extra layers of cardboard.
Make sure that the painted pieces of cardboard are always facing out.
2-6. Cover the seams with reinforced paper tape.
Go over both the inside and outside of each seam with several pieces of tape to make sure that they’re watertight with no visible cracks or crevices. Duct tape or clear tape can work in a pinch since you’ve already painted your boat.
Duct tape shrinks down when you paint over it, and clear tape tends to melt beneath a coat of paint. Don’t use either of these tapes if you plan on painting your boat some more.
2-7. Add a coat of varnish
Go over both the inside and outside of your cardboard boat to make sure that it’s totally waterproof before the regatta.
Check the varnish label to see how long to dry and cure.
2-8. Decorate the boat so it matches your theme.
If you’re racing in a cardboard boat regatta, there’s a good chance that you and your crew have chosen a theme for your boat. Now, it’s time to have fun decorating and jazzing your boat up! Just make sure that your additions won’t mess with the structural integrity of the boat or break the rules.
For instance, if you want your boat to look like a pirate ship, add a mast and sail, Jolly Roger flag, cannons, anchors, and a crow’s nest.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing the Boat\\n1-1. Check the rules if you’re entering your boat in a contest.\\nAs a general rule of thumb, stick with corrugated cardboard, cardboard blocks, cardboard tubes, duct or masking tape, glue, latex paint, and varnish for your boat. Most regattas have a pretty strict list of materials that you can and can’t use, so you don’t want to get disqualified before the race even starts! \\nMany regattas ban materials like wood, styrofoam, plastic sheathing, metal, and fiberglass. Coated cardboard is often off-limits as well, along with caulk, staples, clamps, and screws. Basically, your boat can only be made with cardboard, paint, and some type of basic adhesive.\\nContest rules also limit the types of boats you can make. Raft- and canoe-style boats make the cut, while surfboard-style boats typically aren’t allowed.\\n1-2. Build a flat-bottom boat to prevent it from tipping in the water.\\nA flat-bottomed boat offers lots of stability, which is great if you’re racing across a pool or lake. Boats with V-shaped bottoms have a greater chance of capsizing once you’re in the water.\\n1-3. Design the boat to be 18-48 in (46-122 cm) wide and 18 in (36 cm) tall.\\nIf you’re sailing solo, 18-30 in (46-76 cm) gives you enough wiggle room along the width of your boat. If you’re planning on sitting side-by-side with someone in your boat, give yourself 48 in (122 cm) of breathing room. Then, plan for your boat to be about 18 in (36 cm) high—this gives you enough space to paddle in the boat while kneeling or sitting down.\\n1-4. Make the boat between 8 and 12 ft (2.4 and 3.7 m) long.\\nFactor in your crew size when you’re finalizing the dimensions of your boat. An 8 ft (2.4 m) long boat might be best if you’re sailing by yourself, while a 12 ft (3.7 m) long boat would work better for a larger crew.\\nYour boat’s length plays a big role in how easy (or hard!) it is to control. Boats that are less than 10 ft (3.0 m) long are difficult to keep pointed in one direction, while boats that are more than 12 ft (3.7 m) long can be difficult to turn.\\n1-5. Give your boat a pointed bow if you’d like it to go faster.\\nWhen your boat has a squared-off bow, the water hits the very front of the boat and creates some water resistance. When your boat has a triangular front, you run into far less of that water resistance—this makes you cut faster through the water!\\nThis isn’t to say that there’s anything wrong with a simple, squared-off bow! Plenty of people have entered regattas with square boats. Plus, a square-shaped boat works well with certain themes and decorations, like a school bus or fire truck.\\n1-6. Build a horizontal block across the boat to give it extra support.\\nPlan on making a “support block” that spans horizontally along your boat. You can either position this piece so it separates the hull from the crew compartment, or put it in the center of the boat to create 2 separate crew compartments—just be sure to balance the weight in each.\\n1-7. Multiply the boat’s volume by 62.4 (28.3 metric) to ensure it can hold your crew.\\nFind the volume of your boat by multiplying the width by the height and length. Then, multiply this number by 62.4 (26.3), since water weights 62.4 lb per cubic foot (28.3 kg per cubic meter). This number is the total amount of weight your boat can support without sinking.\\nFor instance, if the boat is 10 ft (3.0 m) long, 3 ft (0.91 m) wide, and 1 ft (0.30 m) tall, the volume is 30 ft (0.819 m). Multiply 30 cu ft (0.819 m by 62.4 lb/cu ft (1,000 kg/m), which gives you 1,872 lbs (819 kg). In other words, your boat can support 1,872 lbs (819 kg) of combined weight without sinking.\\nBelieve it or not, a 1 by 1 by 3 ft (0.30 by 0.30 by 0.91 m) box can support someone who weighs up to 187 lb (85 kg) without sinking. If your boat is large enough to physically hold you, it’s likely sturdy enough to float.\\n1-8. Build and test a small, to-scale model of your boat design to make sure it works.\\nGrab a manila folder or piece of thin cardboard—this will be sturdy enough to make your mini boat. Fold and cut the material into your design so you can see if the structure seems viable or not.\\nAn easy way to scale down the dimensions of your boat is to use the same number of smaller units. For example, if your finished boat will be 10 by 3 by 1 ft (3.05 by 0.91 by 0.30 m), switch the units to inches to make the boat smaller but keep the model proportionate. In this case, you’d make your model 10 by 3 by 1 in (25.4 by 7.6 by 2.5 cm).\\nStick a couple of coins or rocks into your boat to represent you and your fellow crew members.\\nDon’t be discouraged if your first model doesn’t work out. It’s better to work out the kinks in the planning phase than to have a huge chunk of cardboard that doesn’t float properly!\\n2. Constructing the Boat\\n2-1. Build your boat with big, flat sheets of corrugated cardboard.\\nStop by your local pharmacy, recycling center, or big-box store and see if they have any spare cardboard boxes they’re tossing away. Grab as many sheets of corrugated cardboard from these places as you can—this type of cardboard is much sturdier and will give your boat much more structure.\\nGrocery stores, fast food restaurants, bookstores, coffee shops, and schools might also have leftover boxes they’re no longer using. You also check out sites like CraigsList and Freecycle to see if people in your community have some extra cardboard lying around.\\n2-2. Cut or fold the pieces of cardboard together to shape your boat.\\nReference the sketch and model you made earlier to guide your work. Using a box cutter, carefully slice any smaller pieces or components from a larger sheet of cardboard. To fold the cardboard, just crease it with the blunt bottom of your box cutter (make sure it’s retracted first!).\\nYou can also use a tool like a screen roller to crease the cardboard.\\n2-3. Paint the cardboard\\nPull out your paint color of choice and go over all of the cardboard you’d like to paint. Latex paint takes around 4 hours to completely dry, so make sure your cardboard has enough time to air-dry between coats.\\nHouse paint works really well for cardboard boats.\\nAny type of water-based paint will work for this project.\\n2-4. Glue the pieces of cardboard together and clamp them in place.\\nGrab a bottle of carpenter’s glue or Liquid Nails—these are pretty heavy-duty and will give your boat a lot of structure. Thoroughly coat 1 of the joints or pieces of cardboard with an even layer of glue and stick it to the adjoining piece. Then, secure the pieces with clamps to make sure that the cardboard doesn’t move or come apart. Wait for the glue to dry completely before removing the clamps.\\nCheck your glue’s packaging to see how much time it needs to dry and cure.\\nNever use hot glue for this—it could melt in the hot weather when you’re outside.\\n2-5. Add an extra layer of cardboard on top of the first layer for reinforcement.\\nOnce you’ve built a basic framework for your boat, glue an extra layer to the outside of your boat with polyurethane adhesive. An extra layer of cardboard help make your boat’s hull extra sturdy. Clamp the pieces of cardboard together to help them dry in the correct shape.\\nLayer the sheets of cardboard so the corrugations in each sheet run in perpendicular directions.\\nGive the bottom of your boat some extra security with 2 extra layers of cardboard.\\nMake sure that the painted pieces of cardboard are always facing out.\\n2-6. Cover the seams with reinforced paper tape.\\nGo over both the inside and outside of each seam with several pieces of tape to make sure that they’re watertight with no visible cracks or crevices. Duct tape or clear tape can work in a pinch since you’ve already painted your boat.\\nDuct tape shrinks down when you paint over it, and clear tape tends to melt beneath a coat of paint. Don’t use either of these tapes if you plan on painting your boat some more.\\n2-7. Add a coat of varnish\\nGo over both the inside and outside of your cardboard boat to make sure that it’s totally waterproof before the regatta.\\nCheck the varnish label to see how long to dry and cure.\\n2-8. Decorate the boat so it matches your theme.\\nIf you’re racing in a cardboard boat regatta, there’s a good chance that you and your crew have chosen a theme for your boat. Now, it’s time to have fun decorating and jazzing your boat up! Just make sure that your additions won’t mess with the structural integrity of the boat or break the rules.\\nFor instance, if you want your boat to look like a pirate ship, add a mast and sail, Jolly Roger flag, cannons, anchors, and a crow’s nest.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Gearing up for the big cardboard boat regatta in your community? Victory is within your reach—the key is building a sleek, unsinkable boat that can support you and your crew. We’ll help you get started with some pro design ideas, along with some handy construction tips that will float you to the top of your competition. With just a few simple supplies, you’ll be ready to set sail!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing the Boat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check the rules if you’re entering your boat in a contest.\", \"描述\": \"As a general rule of thumb, stick with corrugated cardboard, cardboard blocks, cardboard tubes, duct or masking tape, glue, latex paint, and varnish for your boat. Most regattas have a pretty strict list of materials that you can and can’t use, so you don’t want to get disqualified before the race even starts! \\nMany regattas ban materials like wood, styrofoam, plastic sheathing, metal, and fiberglass. Coated cardboard is often off-limits as well, along with caulk, staples, clamps, and screws. Basically, your boat can only be made with cardboard, paint, and some type of basic adhesive.\\nContest rules also limit the types of boats you can make. Raft- and canoe-style boats make the cut, while surfboard-style boats typically aren’t allowed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a flat-bottom boat to prevent it from tipping in the water.\", \"描述\": \"A flat-bottomed boat offers lots of stability, which is great if you’re racing across a pool or lake. Boats with V-shaped bottoms have a greater chance of capsizing once you’re in the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Design the boat to be 18-48 in (46-122 cm) wide and 18 in (36 cm) tall.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re sailing solo, 18-30 in (46-76 cm) gives you enough wiggle room along the width of your boat. If you’re planning on sitting side-by-side with someone in your boat, give yourself 48 in (122 cm) of breathing room. Then, plan for your boat to be about 18 in (36 cm) high—this gives you enough space to paddle in the boat while kneeling or sitting down.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make the boat between 8 and 12 ft (2.4 and 3.7 m) long.\", \"描述\": \"Factor in your crew size when you’re finalizing the dimensions of your boat. An 8 ft (2.4 m) long boat might be best if you’re sailing by yourself, while a 12 ft (3.7 m) long boat would work better for a larger crew.\\nYour boat’s length plays a big role in how easy (or hard!) it is to control. Boats that are less than 10 ft (3.0 m) long are difficult to keep pointed in one direction, while boats that are more than 12 ft (3.7 m) long can be difficult to turn.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Give your boat a pointed bow if you’d like it to go faster.\", \"描述\": \"When your boat has a squared-off bow, the water hits the very front of the boat and creates some water resistance. When your boat has a triangular front, you run into far less of that water resistance—this makes you cut faster through the water!\\nThis isn’t to say that there’s anything wrong with a simple, squared-off bow! Plenty of people have entered regattas with square boats. Plus, a square-shaped boat works well with certain themes and decorations, like a school bus or fire truck.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build a horizontal block across the boat to give it extra support.\", \"描述\": \"Plan on making a “support block” that spans horizontally along your boat. You can either position this piece so it separates the hull from the crew compartment, or put it in the center of the boat to create 2 separate crew compartments—just be sure to balance the weight in each.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Multiply the boat’s volume by 62.4 (28.3 metric) to ensure it can hold your crew.\", \"描述\": \"Find the volume of your boat by multiplying the width by the height and length. Then, multiply this number by 62.4 (26.3), since water weights 62.4 lb per cubic foot (28.3 kg per cubic meter). This number is the total amount of weight your boat can support without sinking.\\nFor instance, if the boat is 10 ft (3.0 m) long, 3 ft (0.91 m) wide, and 1 ft (0.30 m) tall, the volume is 30 ft (0.819 m). Multiply 30 cu ft (0.819 m by 62.4 lb/cu ft (1,000 kg/m), which gives you 1,872 lbs (819 kg). In other words, your boat can support 1,872 lbs (819 kg) of combined weight without sinking.\\nBelieve it or not, a 1 by 1 by 3 ft (0.30 by 0.30 by 0.91 m) box can support someone who weighs up to 187 lb (85 kg) without sinking. If your boat is large enough to physically hold you, it’s likely sturdy enough to float.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Build and test a small, to-scale model of your boat design to make sure it works.\", \"描述\": \"Grab a manila folder or piece of thin cardboard—this will be sturdy enough to make your mini boat. Fold and cut the material into your design so you can see if the structure seems viable or not.\\nAn easy way to scale down the dimensions of your boat is to use the same number of smaller units. For example, if your finished boat will be 10 by 3 by 1 ft (3.05 by 0.91 by 0.30 m), switch the units to inches to make the boat smaller but keep the model proportionate. In this case, you’d make your model 10 by 3 by 1 in (25.4 by 7.6 by 2.5 cm).\\nStick a couple of coins or rocks into your boat to represent you and your fellow crew members.\\nDon’t be discouraged if your first model doesn’t work out. It’s better to work out the kinks in the planning phase than to have a huge chunk of cardboard that doesn’t float properly!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Boat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build your boat with big, flat sheets of corrugated cardboard.\", \"描述\": \"Stop by your local pharmacy, recycling center, or big-box store and see if they have any spare cardboard boxes they’re tossing away. Grab as many sheets of corrugated cardboard from these places as you can—this type of cardboard is much sturdier and will give your boat much more structure.\\nGrocery stores, fast food restaurants, bookstores, coffee shops, and schools might also have leftover boxes they’re no longer using. You also check out sites like CraigsList and Freecycle to see if people in your community have some extra cardboard lying around.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut or fold the pieces of cardboard together to shape your boat.\", \"描述\": \"Reference the sketch and model you made earlier to guide your work. Using a box cutter, carefully slice any smaller pieces or components from a larger sheet of cardboard. To fold the cardboard, just crease it with the blunt bottom of your box cutter (make sure it’s retracted first!).\\nYou can also use a tool like a screen roller to crease the cardboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint the cardboard\", \"描述\": \"Pull out your paint color of choice and go over all of the cardboard you’d like to paint. Latex paint takes around 4 hours to completely dry, so make sure your cardboard has enough time to air-dry between coats.\\nHouse paint works really well for cardboard boats.\\nAny type of water-based paint will work for this project.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue the pieces of cardboard together and clamp them in place.\", \"描述\": \"Grab a bottle of carpenter’s glue or Liquid Nails—these are pretty heavy-duty and will give your boat a lot of structure. Thoroughly coat 1 of the joints or pieces of cardboard with an even layer of glue and stick it to the adjoining piece. Then, secure the pieces with clamps to make sure that the cardboard doesn’t move or come apart. Wait for the glue to dry completely before removing the clamps.\\nCheck your glue’s packaging to see how much time it needs to dry and cure.\\nNever use hot glue for this—it could melt in the hot weather when you’re outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add an extra layer of cardboard on top of the first layer for reinforcement.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve built a basic framework for your boat, glue an extra layer to the outside of your boat with polyurethane adhesive. An extra layer of cardboard help make your boat’s hull extra sturdy. Clamp the pieces of cardboard together to help them dry in the correct shape.\\nLayer the sheets of cardboard so the corrugations in each sheet run in perpendicular directions.\\nGive the bottom of your boat some extra security with 2 extra layers of cardboard.\\nMake sure that the painted pieces of cardboard are always facing out.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cover the seams with reinforced paper tape.\", \"描述\": \"Go over both the inside and outside of each seam with several pieces of tape to make sure that they’re watertight with no visible cracks or crevices. Duct tape or clear tape can work in a pinch since you’ve already painted your boat.\\nDuct tape shrinks down when you paint over it, and clear tape tends to melt beneath a coat of paint. Don’t use either of these tapes if you plan on painting your boat some more.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add a coat of varnish\", \"描述\": \"Go over both the inside and outside of your cardboard boat to make sure that it’s totally waterproof before the regatta.\\nCheck the varnish label to see how long to dry and cure.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Decorate the boat so it matches your theme.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re racing in a cardboard boat regatta, there’s a good chance that you and your crew have chosen a theme for your boat. Now, it’s time to have fun decorating and jazzing your boat up! Just make sure that your additions won’t mess with the structural integrity of the boat or break the rules.\\nFor instance, if you want your boat to look like a pirate ship, add a mast and sail, Jolly Roger flag, cannons, anchors, and a crow’s nest.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,254 |
How to Build a Cardboard House
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1. Making a Cardboard Model House
1-1. Pick a box to use.
Use one slightly larger than a shoe box if you have one.
1-2. Place one of the open ends on the bottom.
You can close the flaps or cut them off, depending on what you want.
If you want to have a removable roof, you should leave the bottom on.
1-3. Create the roof structure.
Cut flat lines on two opposite sides. On the other two sides, go up to a point in the middle, like a roof. Basically, you're creating a triangle shape on top of a rectangle or square shape. For this part, you can use scissors.
1-4. Cut out the roof.
The roof should be a single piece of cardboard large enough to reach over the edges of the roof space. Bend it in half so it rests correctly over the roof angle.
1-5. Cut out the doors and windows.
Use a pencil to draw where you want doors and windows. Use a craft knife or scissors to cut them out. For the doors, leave one edge uncut, so you have a door that opens and shuts.
1-6. Glue the roof on.
Use hot glue to glue the roof in place. Trace the glue along the top edges of the cardboard, and then set the roof in place.
You can leave the roof off if you want a removable roof, as long as you left the bottom on for structure.
2. Creating a Criss-cross Cardboard Dollhouse
2-1. Choose a large box.
It should have large sections that aren't bent.
This type of dollhouse has a center wall with pieces fitted through the center to create rooms on either side.
2-2. Cut the box into sections.
Follow the folding lines to create large pieces of cardboard.
2-3. Cut a large rectangle for the center wall.
This piece will be the largest one for your dollhouse, and it determines the length.
2-4. Cut equal-sized squares or rectangles.
These should be the same height as the original wall and should be able to extend out on either side of it to create good-sized rooms.
How many of these walls you make depends on how long you made the original wall. You need a wall on each end, but you may have one, two, or three dividing walls in between. One wall in between will create four rooms, while two will create six rooms and three will create eight rooms.
2-5. Mark each of the smaller walls in the middle.
You should measure lengthwise, and use a pencil to mark the middle. Also measure to the middle height-wise.
2-6. Cut a narrow strip down the middle of the cardboard.
Cut into the middle lengthwise, going down to the middle height-wise.
Repeat for each smaller wall piece.
2-7. Line up the pieces.
Place the pieces on the long piece of cardboard, lining them up where you want them to go. Use a pencil to mark the places.
Use the strip you cut to line them up. Insert the large wall into the cut strip. The smaller walls will sit up too high, which is why you will cut strips in the large wall in the next step.
2-8. Cut a narrow strip for each wall to the middle height-wise.
The strip should run the same direction you had the walls standing up.
For the end pieces, move in a half-inch or so from the outer edge to cut the strip.
2-9. Add windows and doors.
Draw and cut out windows and doors in the walls.
2-10. Place and glue the walls.
Put the walls together. The small walls should fit into the large wall like a puzzle piece, with each side straddling the other. Glue the walls in place with hot glue.
3. Making a Cardboard Playhouse
3-1. Find a large box.
The best boxes for this activity are refrigerator boxes or other boxes of that size. Dishwasher boxes also work fine.
3-2. Cut off the bottom flaps.
Reserve the flaps for later.
3-3. Cut out a door and windows.
On the door, leave one edge uncut. Bend it back to make the door open.
3-4. Attach the flaps to the top in a triangle.
Bend the flaps or tape two together to create the roof, resting it on two edges of the top of the box. You will need to add a triangle piece of cardboard at the front and back to match the slope of the roof. Glue the roof in place.
3-5. Cut out squares.
Attach them to the roof in a shingle pattern. Beginning at the bottom edge, glue the shingles on in a row with the bottom part hanging over. Only glue the top edge on. Glue the next row in, also leaving the bottoms unglued. Each layer should hang over the layer below.
3-6. Add eaves, if desired.
Cut out scalloped pieces of cardboard, and glue them under the front edge of the roof to create eaves.
4. Decorating Your House with Paint
4-1. Lay out newspaper.
The decorating process can be messy, so make sure you protect your table or other painting surface by spreading out newspaper.
4-2. Coat the house in a layer of gesso.
Gesso is a primer used to prepare surfaces for acrylic paint. It dries hard and white, both covering up the brown of the cardboard or any ink on the cardboard and providing a smooth surface for the even application of paint.
Gesso can be purchased in any craft or art supply store.
Using a clean brush, apply the gesso in an even coat to the entire surface of the house.
Use long, parallel strokes to ensure an even coating.
Let the gesso dry completely before painting the house.
4-3. Sketch details in pencil.
When the gesso has dried, you’ll have a white surface on which you can sketch any details you might want to include on your house. Using your ruler, sketch out flowers, eaves, or anything else you want to paint on your house. If you don't want to cut out windows in an earlier step, you can draw and paint them instead.
4-4. Paint the house.
Use a small brush on the smaller house so you can control the detail, or else you might end up with a smudgy door or windows. For the playhouse, you can use a larger brush.
Paint the exterior walls first, being careful not to let the paint bleed over the lines you’ve sketched for your doors and windows.
Paint the background first, then add the details.
Clean the brush with fresh water when switching between colors.
If you have to apply one color over another — a black doorknob on a red door, for example — let the bottom layer of paint dry completely before applying the second color.
Apply the paint in thin layers, so it doesn’t drip down. Even if you have newspaper under the house, the dripping will leave an uneven texture on the surface of the house.
4-5. Let the paint dry before applying a second layer.
Leave the house in the sun, if possible, to speed up the drying process. After an hour or two, lightly brush your finger along the paint surface to see if any comes off on your skin. If not, you’re ready to apply a second layer of paint to cover up the gesso underneath.
Once your second layer of paint has dried, you’re finished.
5. Decorating Your House with Paper
5-1. Pick an appropriately-sized piece of paper.
For larger houses, try wrapping paper. For smaller houses, try scrapbook paper.
5-2. Use it to decorate the inside or outside of the house.
Inside, it works as wallpaper and carpet. Outside, it can work as paint.
5-3. Cut the paper to fit.
Measure the size of the space, and cut the paper down to size.
5-4. Glue it into place.
Smooth out the paper as you go.
5-5. Add paper flowers to the yard.
You can make flowers out of paper and create a yard or window box.
For a simple paper flower, cut out a round circle of paper. It should be about an inch across.
Cut out a simple spiral with two edges. Wave the lines as you cut.
Beginning on the outside of the paper, roll up the spiral tightly. Once you've got it curled up, let it unravel slightly to form a flower.
Glue the bottom of the spiral to the circle you made in the beginning.
Warnings
Be careful when using hot glue. It can quickly burn fingers.
Always cut away from yourself when using a craft knife. Otherwise, the knife can slip and cut towards you.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Cardboard Model House\\n1-1. Pick a box to use.\\nUse one slightly larger than a shoe box if you have one.\\n1-2. Place one of the open ends on the bottom.\\nYou can close the flaps or cut them off, depending on what you want.\\nIf you want to have a removable roof, you should leave the bottom on.\\n1-3. Create the roof structure.\\nCut flat lines on two opposite sides. On the other two sides, go up to a point in the middle, like a roof. Basically, you're creating a triangle shape on top of a rectangle or square shape. For this part, you can use scissors.\\n1-4. Cut out the roof.\\nThe roof should be a single piece of cardboard large enough to reach over the edges of the roof space. Bend it in half so it rests correctly over the roof angle.\\n1-5. Cut out the doors and windows.\\nUse a pencil to draw where you want doors and windows. Use a craft knife or scissors to cut them out. For the doors, leave one edge uncut, so you have a door that opens and shuts.\\n1-6. Glue the roof on.\\nUse hot glue to glue the roof in place. Trace the glue along the top edges of the cardboard, and then set the roof in place.\\nYou can leave the roof off if you want a removable roof, as long as you left the bottom on for structure.\\n2. Creating a Criss-cross Cardboard Dollhouse\\n2-1. Choose a large box.\\nIt should have large sections that aren't bent.\\nThis type of dollhouse has a center wall with pieces fitted through the center to create rooms on either side.\\n2-2. Cut the box into sections.\\nFollow the folding lines to create large pieces of cardboard.\\n2-3. Cut a large rectangle for the center wall.\\nThis piece will be the largest one for your dollhouse, and it determines the length.\\n2-4. Cut equal-sized squares or rectangles.\\nThese should be the same height as the original wall and should be able to extend out on either side of it to create good-sized rooms.\\nHow many of these walls you make depends on how long you made the original wall. You need a wall on each end, but you may have one, two, or three dividing walls in between. One wall in between will create four rooms, while two will create six rooms and three will create eight rooms.\\n2-5. Mark each of the smaller walls in the middle.\\nYou should measure lengthwise, and use a pencil to mark the middle. Also measure to the middle height-wise.\\n2-6. Cut a narrow strip down the middle of the cardboard.\\nCut into the middle lengthwise, going down to the middle height-wise.\\nRepeat for each smaller wall piece.\\n2-7. Line up the pieces.\\nPlace the pieces on the long piece of cardboard, lining them up where you want them to go. Use a pencil to mark the places.\\nUse the strip you cut to line them up. Insert the large wall into the cut strip. The smaller walls will sit up too high, which is why you will cut strips in the large wall in the next step.\\n2-8. Cut a narrow strip for each wall to the middle height-wise.\\nThe strip should run the same direction you had the walls standing up.\\nFor the end pieces, move in a half-inch or so from the outer edge to cut the strip.\\n2-9. Add windows and doors.\\nDraw and cut out windows and doors in the walls.\\n2-10. Place and glue the walls.\\nPut the walls together. The small walls should fit into the large wall like a puzzle piece, with each side straddling the other. Glue the walls in place with hot glue.\\n3. Making a Cardboard Playhouse\\n3-1. Find a large box.\\nThe best boxes for this activity are refrigerator boxes or other boxes of that size. Dishwasher boxes also work fine.\\n3-2. Cut off the bottom flaps.\\nReserve the flaps for later.\\n3-3. Cut out a door and windows.\\nOn the door, leave one edge uncut. Bend it back to make the door open.\\n3-4. Attach the flaps to the top in a triangle.\\nBend the flaps or tape two together to create the roof, resting it on two edges of the top of the box. You will need to add a triangle piece of cardboard at the front and back to match the slope of the roof. Glue the roof in place.\\n3-5. Cut out squares.\\nAttach them to the roof in a shingle pattern. Beginning at the bottom edge, glue the shingles on in a row with the bottom part hanging over. Only glue the top edge on. Glue the next row in, also leaving the bottoms unglued. Each layer should hang over the layer below.\\n3-6. Add eaves, if desired.\\nCut out scalloped pieces of cardboard, and glue them under the front edge of the roof to create eaves.\\n4. Decorating Your House with Paint\\n4-1. Lay out newspaper.\\nThe decorating process can be messy, so make sure you protect your table or other painting surface by spreading out newspaper.\\n4-2. Coat the house in a layer of gesso.\\nGesso is a primer used to prepare surfaces for acrylic paint. It dries hard and white, both covering up the brown of the cardboard or any ink on the cardboard and providing a smooth surface for the even application of paint.\\nGesso can be purchased in any craft or art supply store.\\nUsing a clean brush, apply the gesso in an even coat to the entire surface of the house.\\nUse long, parallel strokes to ensure an even coating.\\nLet the gesso dry completely before painting the house.\\n4-3. Sketch details in pencil.\\nWhen the gesso has dried, you’ll have a white surface on which you can sketch any details you might want to include on your house. Using your ruler, sketch out flowers, eaves, or anything else you want to paint on your house. If you don't want to cut out windows in an earlier step, you can draw and paint them instead.\\n4-4. Paint the house.\\nUse a small brush on the smaller house so you can control the detail, or else you might end up with a smudgy door or windows. For the playhouse, you can use a larger brush.\\nPaint the exterior walls first, being careful not to let the paint bleed over the lines you’ve sketched for your doors and windows.\\nPaint the background first, then add the details.\\nClean the brush with fresh water when switching between colors.\\nIf you have to apply one color over another — a black doorknob on a red door, for example — let the bottom layer of paint dry completely before applying the second color.\\nApply the paint in thin layers, so it doesn’t drip down. Even if you have newspaper under the house, the dripping will leave an uneven texture on the surface of the house.\\n4-5. Let the paint dry before applying a second layer.\\nLeave the house in the sun, if possible, to speed up the drying process. After an hour or two, lightly brush your finger along the paint surface to see if any comes off on your skin. If not, you’re ready to apply a second layer of paint to cover up the gesso underneath.\\nOnce your second layer of paint has dried, you’re finished.\\n5. Decorating Your House with Paper\\n5-1. Pick an appropriately-sized piece of paper.\\nFor larger houses, try wrapping paper. For smaller houses, try scrapbook paper.\\n5-2. Use it to decorate the inside or outside of the house.\\nInside, it works as wallpaper and carpet. Outside, it can work as paint.\\n5-3. Cut the paper to fit.\\nMeasure the size of the space, and cut the paper down to size.\\n5-4. Glue it into place.\\nSmooth out the paper as you go.\\n5-5. Add paper flowers to the yard.\\nYou can make flowers out of paper and create a yard or window box.\\nFor a simple paper flower, cut out a round circle of paper. It should be about an inch across.\\nCut out a simple spiral with two edges. Wave the lines as you cut.\\nBeginning on the outside of the paper, roll up the spiral tightly. Once you've got it curled up, let it unravel slightly to form a flower.\\nGlue the bottom of the spiral to the circle you made in the beginning.\\nWarnings\\nBe careful when using hot glue. It can quickly burn fingers.\\nAlways cut away from yourself when using a craft knife. Otherwise, the knife can slip and cut towards you.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you're helping a child or younger sibling with a school project or just trying to keep yourself amused on a rainy day, a cardboard house is a fun and easy craft project. You can make a simple model house, a dollhouse, or even a large cardboard playhouse. These houses can be made from materials you likely already have around your house, although you might need to visit an art supply store if you want to decorate it.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Cardboard Model House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick a box to use.\", \"描述\": \"Use one slightly larger than a shoe box if you have one.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place one of the open ends on the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"You can close the flaps or cut them off, depending on what you want.\\nIf you want to have a removable roof, you should leave the bottom on.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create the roof structure.\", \"描述\": \"Cut flat lines on two opposite sides. On the other two sides, go up to a point in the middle, like a roof. Basically, you're creating a triangle shape on top of a rectangle or square shape. For this part, you can use scissors.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut out the roof.\", \"描述\": \"The roof should be a single piece of cardboard large enough to reach over the edges of the roof space. Bend it in half so it rests correctly over the roof angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut out the doors and windows.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pencil to draw where you want doors and windows. Use a craft knife or scissors to cut them out. For the doors, leave one edge uncut, so you have a door that opens and shuts.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Glue the roof on.\", \"描述\": \"Use hot glue to glue the roof in place. Trace the glue along the top edges of the cardboard, and then set the roof in place.\\nYou can leave the roof off if you want a removable roof, as long as you left the bottom on for structure.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating a Criss-cross Cardboard Dollhouse\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a large box.\", \"描述\": \"It should have large sections that aren't bent.\\nThis type of dollhouse has a center wall with pieces fitted through the center to create rooms on either side.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the box into sections.\", \"描述\": \"Follow the folding lines to create large pieces of cardboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut a large rectangle for the center wall.\", \"描述\": \"This piece will be the largest one for your dollhouse, and it determines the length.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut equal-sized squares or rectangles.\", \"描述\": \"These should be the same height as the original wall and should be able to extend out on either side of it to create good-sized rooms.\\nHow many of these walls you make depends on how long you made the original wall. You need a wall on each end, but you may have one, two, or three dividing walls in between. One wall in between will create four rooms, while two will create six rooms and three will create eight rooms.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mark each of the smaller walls in the middle.\", \"描述\": \"You should measure lengthwise, and use a pencil to mark the middle. Also measure to the middle height-wise.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut a narrow strip down the middle of the cardboard.\", \"描述\": \"Cut into the middle lengthwise, going down to the middle height-wise.\\nRepeat for each smaller wall piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Line up the pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Place the pieces on the long piece of cardboard, lining them up where you want them to go. Use a pencil to mark the places.\\nUse the strip you cut to line them up. Insert the large wall into the cut strip. The smaller walls will sit up too high, which is why you will cut strips in the large wall in the next step.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut a narrow strip for each wall to the middle height-wise.\", \"描述\": \"The strip should run the same direction you had the walls standing up.\\nFor the end pieces, move in a half-inch or so from the outer edge to cut the strip.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Add windows and doors.\", \"描述\": \"Draw and cut out windows and doors in the walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Place and glue the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Put the walls together. The small walls should fit into the large wall like a puzzle piece, with each side straddling the other. Glue the walls in place with hot glue.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making a Cardboard Playhouse\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a large box.\", \"描述\": \"The best boxes for this activity are refrigerator boxes or other boxes of that size. Dishwasher boxes also work fine.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut off the bottom flaps.\", \"描述\": \"Reserve the flaps for later.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut out a door and windows.\", \"描述\": \"On the door, leave one edge uncut. Bend it back to make the door open.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the flaps to the top in a triangle.\", \"描述\": \"Bend the flaps or tape two together to create the roof, resting it on two edges of the top of the box. You will need to add a triangle piece of cardboard at the front and back to match the slope of the roof. Glue the roof in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut out squares.\", \"描述\": \"Attach them to the roof in a shingle pattern. Beginning at the bottom edge, glue the shingles on in a row with the bottom part hanging over. Only glue the top edge on. Glue the next row in, also leaving the bottoms unglued. Each layer should hang over the layer below.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add eaves, if desired.\", \"描述\": \"Cut out scalloped pieces of cardboard, and glue them under the front edge of the roof to create eaves.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decorating Your House with Paint\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out newspaper.\", \"描述\": \"The decorating process can be messy, so make sure you protect your table or other painting surface by spreading out newspaper.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Coat the house in a layer of gesso.\", \"描述\": \"Gesso is a primer used to prepare surfaces for acrylic paint. It dries hard and white, both covering up the brown of the cardboard or any ink on the cardboard and providing a smooth surface for the even application of paint.\\nGesso can be purchased in any craft or art supply store.\\nUsing a clean brush, apply the gesso in an even coat to the entire surface of the house.\\nUse long, parallel strokes to ensure an even coating.\\nLet the gesso dry completely before painting the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sketch details in pencil.\", \"描述\": \"When the gesso has dried, you’ll have a white surface on which you can sketch any details you might want to include on your house. Using your ruler, sketch out flowers, eaves, or anything else you want to paint on your house. If you don't want to cut out windows in an earlier step, you can draw and paint them instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Paint the house.\", \"描述\": \"Use a small brush on the smaller house so you can control the detail, or else you might end up with a smudgy door or windows. For the playhouse, you can use a larger brush.\\nPaint the exterior walls first, being careful not to let the paint bleed over the lines you’ve sketched for your doors and windows.\\nPaint the background first, then add the details.\\nClean the brush with fresh water when switching between colors.\\nIf you have to apply one color over another — a black doorknob on a red door, for example — let the bottom layer of paint dry completely before applying the second color.\\nApply the paint in thin layers, so it doesn’t drip down. Even if you have newspaper under the house, the dripping will leave an uneven texture on the surface of the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Let the paint dry before applying a second layer.\", \"描述\": \"Leave the house in the sun, if possible, to speed up the drying process. After an hour or two, lightly brush your finger along the paint surface to see if any comes off on your skin. If not, you’re ready to apply a second layer of paint to cover up the gesso underneath.\\nOnce your second layer of paint has dried, you’re finished.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Decorating Your House with Paper\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick an appropriately-sized piece of paper.\", \"描述\": \"For larger houses, try wrapping paper. For smaller houses, try scrapbook paper.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use it to decorate the inside or outside of the house.\", \"描述\": \"Inside, it works as wallpaper and carpet. Outside, it can work as paint.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the paper to fit.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the size of the space, and cut the paper down to size.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue it into place.\", \"描述\": \"Smooth out the paper as you go.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add paper flowers to the yard.\", \"描述\": \"You can make flowers out of paper and create a yard or window box.\\nFor a simple paper flower, cut out a round circle of paper. It should be about an inch across.\\nCut out a simple spiral with two edges. Wave the lines as you cut.\\nBeginning on the outside of the paper, roll up the spiral tightly. Once you've got it curled up, let it unravel slightly to form a flower.\\nGlue the bottom of the spiral to the circle you made in the beginning.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful when using hot glue. It can quickly burn fingers.\\n\", \"Always cut away from yourself when using a craft knife. Otherwise, the knife can slip and cut towards you.\\n\"]}]}}",
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"扩展字段": ""
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wikihow
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7,255 |
How to Build a Cardboard Stool
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1. Making the stool base
1-1. Bend a rectangular piece of cardboard at each third of the cardboard piece.
This is needed so as form the cardboard into a triangle. For guidance in where to bend, see the bend lines provided in the image.
1-2. Cut a slit into each end of the cardboard piece.
The slit at one end should be on the bottom corner, while the slit at the other end should be on the top corner. See the image for the precise locations of the slits. These slits allow for clipping into each other to form a locked triangle when folded in place.
1-3. Make the triangle.
Fold the cardboard piece to make two triangles in exactly the same way. When done, you should have something that looks like the triangles in the image. Make a halfway cut at the arrow marks shown in the image, on both triangles.
1-4. Clip the two triangles together.
Refer to the image to help you with the over-locking.
2. Making the seat
2-1. Take a large piece of cardboard and place it under the stool base.
2-2. Draw a line around it to help you see what you have to cut out when the stool base is removed.
2-3. Cut the seat out.
By following the line you'd drawn in place, it should fit perfectly on your stool.
2-4. Glue the seat onto the stool.
Allow to try firmly.
2-5. Test out the stool.
Sit on it gently and enjoy making your own easy furniture.
Tips
These stools are only for temporary use. They won't withstand prolonged usage.
Choose thick cardboard. If you use simple craft cardboard, it's unlikely to hold anything.
Warnings
If the stool gets wet, it may disintegrate.
Do not swing on the stool or sit on it heavily, it will likely break.
When cutting out the cardboard be sure to be careful with the knife/scissor you're using.
If you're making this project and under the age of 15, it is highly recommended that you get supervision from an adult because it can be tricky to get the measurements right.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the stool base\\n1-1. Bend a rectangular piece of cardboard at each third of the cardboard piece.\\nThis is needed so as form the cardboard into a triangle. For guidance in where to bend, see the bend lines provided in the image.\\n1-2. Cut a slit into each end of the cardboard piece.\\nThe slit at one end should be on the bottom corner, while the slit at the other end should be on the top corner. See the image for the precise locations of the slits. These slits allow for clipping into each other to form a locked triangle when folded in place.\\n1-3. Make the triangle.\\nFold the cardboard piece to make two triangles in exactly the same way. When done, you should have something that looks like the triangles in the image. Make a halfway cut at the arrow marks shown in the image, on both triangles.\\n1-4. Clip the two triangles together.\\nRefer to the image to help you with the over-locking.\\n2. Making the seat\\n2-1. Take a large piece of cardboard and place it under the stool base.\\n\\n2-2. Draw a line around it to help you see what you have to cut out when the stool base is removed.\\n\\n2-3. Cut the seat out.\\nBy following the line you'd drawn in place, it should fit perfectly on your stool.\\n2-4. Glue the seat onto the stool.\\nAllow to try firmly.\\n2-5. Test out the stool.\\nSit on it gently and enjoy making your own easy furniture.\\nTips\\nThese stools are only for temporary use. They won't withstand prolonged usage.\\nChoose thick cardboard. If you use simple craft cardboard, it's unlikely to hold anything.\\nWarnings\\nIf the stool gets wet, it may disintegrate.\\nDo not swing on the stool or sit on it heavily, it will likely break.\\nWhen cutting out the cardboard be sure to be careful with the knife/scissor you're using.\\nIf you're making this project and under the age of 15, it is highly recommended that you get supervision from an adult because it can be tricky to get the measurements right.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A nifty stool can be created using strong cardboard and your cutting and gluing skills. This cardboard stool is a cool design project for high school students or something great to kill the time. It might also be useful if you need more seats for your next student party.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the stool base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bend a rectangular piece of cardboard at each third of the cardboard piece.\", \"描述\": \"This is needed so as form the cardboard into a triangle. For guidance in where to bend, see the bend lines provided in the image.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut a slit into each end of the cardboard piece.\", \"描述\": \"The slit at one end should be on the bottom corner, while the slit at the other end should be on the top corner. See the image for the precise locations of the slits. These slits allow for clipping into each other to form a locked triangle when folded in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make the triangle.\", \"描述\": \"Fold the cardboard piece to make two triangles in exactly the same way. When done, you should have something that looks like the triangles in the image. Make a halfway cut at the arrow marks shown in the image, on both triangles.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Clip the two triangles together.\", \"描述\": \"Refer to the image to help you with the over-locking.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making the seat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take a large piece of cardboard and place it under the stool base.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Draw a line around it to help you see what you have to cut out when the stool base is removed.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the seat out.\", \"描述\": \"By following the line you'd drawn in place, it should fit perfectly on your stool.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue the seat onto the stool.\", \"描述\": \"Allow to try firmly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Test out the stool.\", \"描述\": \"Sit on it gently and enjoy making your own easy furniture.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"These stools are only for temporary use. They won't withstand prolonged usage.\\n\", \"Choose thick cardboard. If you use simple craft cardboard, it's unlikely to hold anything.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If the stool gets wet, it may disintegrate.\\n\", \"Do not swing on the stool or sit on it heavily, it will likely break.\\n\", \"When cutting out the cardboard be sure to be careful with the knife/scissor you're using.\\n\", \"If you're making this project and under the age of 15, it is highly recommended that you get supervision from an adult because it can be tricky to get the measurements right.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,256 |
How to Build a Carpenter Bee Trap
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1. Cutting the Wood
1-1. Purchase pressure-treated wood to make the base of the trap.
Carpenter bees build their nests in soft pieces of wood, so avoid untreated lumber. Head to a hardware store or repurpose any wood scraps you have laying around. Pine and cedar are a couple of options for an inexpensive but effective trap. For an easy trap that doesn’t require a lot of cutting, get:
A 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) wood post at least 7 in (18 cm) in height.
Pressure-treated wood often has a faint green hue and smells like oil. The wood may also have a stamp like “L P22” on it to indicate that it has been treated.
You can design your trap differently if you wish to. For instance, if you’re good with crafts, try cutting boards and nailing them together to make a square box.
1-2. Put on eye goggles and a dust mask before working on the trap.
Whenever you plan on cutting or drilling wood for the trap, cover up to avoid sawdust and wood shards. Keep other people out of the areas while you work. Consider also working outdoors or ventilating your workspace by opening nearby doors and windows.
Wear a short-sleeved shirt so you don’t have to worry about loose fabric getting caught in your tools. Also, don’t wear jewelry and tie back your hair if it is long.
1-3. Cut the wood post until it’s 7 in (18 cm) in length.
If you’re working with a long post, trim it to size first. Measure up from one end of the post and mark the distance in pencil. Then, use a circular saw or handsaw to cut horizontally across the post. Set aside the part you aren’t planning on using for the trap.
The post doesn’t have to be very long in order to direct bees into the trap. In fact, leaving the post relatively small makes the trap easier to handle.
If you have excess wood to spare, you could make additional traps with the material you cut.
1-4. Measure and mark a diagonal angle at the top of the post.
Measure about 7 in (18 cm) up along one side of the post. Make another mark about 4 in (10 cm) up the opposite side of the post. Use a ruler to draw a diagonal line connecting the points. The line will be at about a 45-degree angle and is used to cut the top part of the trap.
Making this angle helps later with creating tunnels for the bees to enter. You could also do it without cutting the post at an angle, but it makes the tunnels trickier to line up.
If you don’t wish to do this, you could leave the top alone and instead make a tunnel all the way through the post. Then, cover the top hole with a plank so the bees can’t escape that way.
1-5. Use a saw to trim the post along the traced line.
Hold the post still again. To make the cutting process easier if you’re using a handsaw, pin it to a workbench or sawhorse with a bench clamp. If you’re using a circular saw, hold the wood so the saw slices across the line you made. This will leave the post with an angled top you can use to hang the trap later.
The angled top prevents light from filtering into the trap’s tunnels, so the bees won’t have as much of an opportunity to escape.
If you don’t plan on cutting the top, try nailing a board to it. The board will cover up any holes as well as give you a place to safely install a hanging mechanism.
2. Creating the Bee Tunnels
2-1. Drill through the bottom of the post using a ⁄8 in (2.2 cm) bit.
Flip the post over so the flat, bottom edge faces upward. Position the drill bit directly over the center of the post. Carefully drill straight down, creating a hole about 4 in (10 cm) deep.
You can measure your drill bit ahead of time to ensure the hole is the correct length. If the drill bit is too long, mark it with tape so you know when to stop drilling.
2-2. Mark entry holes 2 in (5.1 cm) up the sides of the post.
Measure up from the bottom edge of the post on one side. The holes also need to be about ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) from the sides of the post in order to keep your trap sturdy. Mark the spot in pencil, then repeat the process on the other 3 sides.
Make sure the marks are well-positioned before you start drilling! These will be the entrance points for the bees, so if they aren’t in the right spot, they won’t connect.
2-3. Position a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) drill bit diagonally on the mark.
Lay the post flat and start with one of the marks you made on the sides of the trap. Point the drill bit up toward the top of the trap at a 45-degree angle. If you angle the drill properly, the new holes will end up connecting to the center tunnel, giving the bees nowhere to go but down.
The tunnels have to be angled upward in order to prevent light from getting into the trap. It causes the bees to head toward the clear jar placed at the bottom of the trap.
2-4. Drill through the marks you made on the trap’s sides.
Drill all the way in until you reach the center of the trap. The hole needs to be about 4 in (10 cm) deep. You will eventually feel the drill bit reach the initial tunnel you made through the bottom of the post. Drill through the remaining sides make a few entrances for the bees.
Drill the other marks as well to make multiple ways for the bees to crawl into your trap.
If you aren’t able to connect the tunnels together, don’t worry. You could try widening the holes or drilling down through the top of the post to connect them all.
3. Installing the Trap
3-1. Twist the lid off of a Mason jar.
A half-pint jar has a lid about 2.8 in (7.1 cm) wide, the perfect size for your trap. Turn the metal ring on top of the jar counterclockwise by hand to free the lid. The lid is the flat piece of metal inside the ring. Pick up the lid and set it aside.
If you don’t want to use a breakable jar, get a few plastic soda bottles instead. Try cutting open one bottle and stapling the bottom half to the trap. Fit a second bottle half over it to hold the bees.
3-2. Use a marker to mark the spots you need to punch through the lid.
Use a ruler to measure the lid’s diameter. Find where the center is and mark it. Then, calculate the halfway points between the center and the rim of the lid. Mark these spots as well.
Make sure you measure across the center of the lid. Hold the ruler very still until you’re done so the spots are properly aligned.
The center marking will be an opening for the bees to crawl through. The other spots are there to secure the lid to the trap.
3-3. Use a metal punch to poke holes through the lid.
Set the lid on top of a piece of scrap wood. Then, position a metal punch over one of the marks. Hammer the opposite end of the punch until it breaks through the lid. Repeat this with the other marks you made..
The punch can damage any surface underneath it. Work over something you don’t plan on keeping, such as a piece of scrap wood.
3-4. Widen the center hole using a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) metal drill bit.
This time you’re going to need to drill through a harder material, so make sure you’re using a heavy-duty bit designed to cut through metal. Drill down through the center hole to widen it. Keep widening it until it matches the tunnel hole you made on the bottom of the wood post.
Be careful not to damage anything underneath the thin lid. Hold it down firmly against a piece of scrap wood that the drill bit can pass through without issue. Throw away the scrap wood when you’re done.
If you use the wrong drill bit, it could burn out your drill as well as ruin the lid, so choose carefully.
3-5. Screw the lid to the underside of the trap.
Place the lid back inside the Mason jar’s ring. Then, position the ring over the hole on the bottom edge of the wood post. Fit a pair of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) wood screws into the smaller holes you punched through the lid. Finish securing the lid by using a screwdriver to turn the screws clockwise.
Screw the holes straight into the wood so they don’t end up crossing into the bee tunnel. Then, make sure the lid is securely in place before attempting to position a Mason jar on it.
3-6. Make a pilot hole through the trap’s top if you plan on hanging it.
You will need a wood drill bit approximately ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) in size. Flip the trap over so the Mason jar side is facedown. Position your drill bit along the center of the trap, then drill down into it. This hole only needs to be short so it doesn’t reach the bee tunnels you made earlier.
The length of the hole depends on the length of the eye screw you plan on using. It needs to be the same length as the screw. Normally, it will be 2 in (5.1 cm) or less.
If you made your bee trap differently, be careful not to drill all the way through the wood. For instance, if you made a box using flat boards, don’t let the drill pierce through the top of the trap.
3-7. Twist an eye screw into the hole to hang the trap.
Use a screw the same length as the hole you made. Set the screw end in the hole, then turn it clockwise until it feels tight and sturdy. You can then hang the trap by threading a rope or a hanging hook through the screw’s eye. Find space for the trap near your deck or other spots carpenter bees tend to invade.
Hang the trap near where you notice bees or near spots you think they might visit. With a screw hook, you can hang up a trap just about anywhere.
If you’re not planning on hanging the trap, set it up on a stable surface near where the bees gather. Put it up high, such as on a table or railing.
3-8. Fit the Mason Jar onto the lid to complete the trap.
After hanging up the trap, move the Mason jar toward the lid. It should fit into the ring holding the lid in place. Turn the jar counterclockwise until it hangs in place. When the jar fills with bees, you can unscrew it again to clean it out.
The jar is where the bees go when they want to leave. The light attracts them there. It works the same way whether you use a jar, plastic bottles, or another clear material.
Tips
There are many ways to customize a bee trap, such as by using different material or making it a different shape. You could also make a bigger trap if you need to.
To identify carpenter bee nests, look for holes and sawdust in wood. Spray a powder insecticide into the holes, then plug them up after the bees are gone.
To drown the bees quickly, add a couple of drops of liquid dish soap to 1⁄4 cup (59 mL) water. When you empty the trap, replace the water.
Warnings
The trap could possibly catch other types of bees pollinating nearby flowers and plants. To avoid this, set up the trap only near wood with carpenter bee nests.
Carpenter bees are not aggressive but can sting you if they feel threatened. Be careful when approaching their nests.
Power tools and saws are dangerous, so always use common safety practices. That includes wearing eye goggles and a dust mask.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Cutting the Wood\\n1-1. Purchase pressure-treated wood to make the base of the trap.\\nCarpenter bees build their nests in soft pieces of wood, so avoid untreated lumber. Head to a hardware store or repurpose any wood scraps you have laying around. Pine and cedar are a couple of options for an inexpensive but effective trap. For an easy trap that doesn’t require a lot of cutting, get:\\nA 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) wood post at least 7 in (18 cm) in height.\\nPressure-treated wood often has a faint green hue and smells like oil. The wood may also have a stamp like “L P22” on it to indicate that it has been treated.\\nYou can design your trap differently if you wish to. For instance, if you’re good with crafts, try cutting boards and nailing them together to make a square box.\\n1-2. Put on eye goggles and a dust mask before working on the trap.\\nWhenever you plan on cutting or drilling wood for the trap, cover up to avoid sawdust and wood shards. Keep other people out of the areas while you work. Consider also working outdoors or ventilating your workspace by opening nearby doors and windows.\\nWear a short-sleeved shirt so you don’t have to worry about loose fabric getting caught in your tools. Also, don’t wear jewelry and tie back your hair if it is long.\\n1-3. Cut the wood post until it’s 7 in (18 cm) in length.\\nIf you’re working with a long post, trim it to size first. Measure up from one end of the post and mark the distance in pencil. Then, use a circular saw or handsaw to cut horizontally across the post. Set aside the part you aren’t planning on using for the trap.\\nThe post doesn’t have to be very long in order to direct bees into the trap. In fact, leaving the post relatively small makes the trap easier to handle.\\nIf you have excess wood to spare, you could make additional traps with the material you cut.\\n1-4. Measure and mark a diagonal angle at the top of the post.\\nMeasure about 7 in (18 cm) up along one side of the post. Make another mark about 4 in (10 cm) up the opposite side of the post. Use a ruler to draw a diagonal line connecting the points. The line will be at about a 45-degree angle and is used to cut the top part of the trap.\\nMaking this angle helps later with creating tunnels for the bees to enter. You could also do it without cutting the post at an angle, but it makes the tunnels trickier to line up.\\nIf you don’t wish to do this, you could leave the top alone and instead make a tunnel all the way through the post. Then, cover the top hole with a plank so the bees can’t escape that way.\\n1-5. Use a saw to trim the post along the traced line.\\nHold the post still again. To make the cutting process easier if you’re using a handsaw, pin it to a workbench or sawhorse with a bench clamp. If you’re using a circular saw, hold the wood so the saw slices across the line you made. This will leave the post with an angled top you can use to hang the trap later.\\nThe angled top prevents light from filtering into the trap’s tunnels, so the bees won’t have as much of an opportunity to escape.\\nIf you don’t plan on cutting the top, try nailing a board to it. The board will cover up any holes as well as give you a place to safely install a hanging mechanism.\\n2. Creating the Bee Tunnels\\n2-1. Drill through the bottom of the post using a ⁄8 in (2.2 cm) bit.\\nFlip the post over so the flat, bottom edge faces upward. Position the drill bit directly over the center of the post. Carefully drill straight down, creating a hole about 4 in (10 cm) deep.\\nYou can measure your drill bit ahead of time to ensure the hole is the correct length. If the drill bit is too long, mark it with tape so you know when to stop drilling.\\n2-2. Mark entry holes 2 in (5.1 cm) up the sides of the post.\\nMeasure up from the bottom edge of the post on one side. The holes also need to be about ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) from the sides of the post in order to keep your trap sturdy. Mark the spot in pencil, then repeat the process on the other 3 sides.\\nMake sure the marks are well-positioned before you start drilling! These will be the entrance points for the bees, so if they aren’t in the right spot, they won’t connect.\\n2-3. Position a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) drill bit diagonally on the mark.\\nLay the post flat and start with one of the marks you made on the sides of the trap. Point the drill bit up toward the top of the trap at a 45-degree angle. If you angle the drill properly, the new holes will end up connecting to the center tunnel, giving the bees nowhere to go but down.\\nThe tunnels have to be angled upward in order to prevent light from getting into the trap. It causes the bees to head toward the clear jar placed at the bottom of the trap.\\n2-4. Drill through the marks you made on the trap’s sides.\\nDrill all the way in until you reach the center of the trap. The hole needs to be about 4 in (10 cm) deep. You will eventually feel the drill bit reach the initial tunnel you made through the bottom of the post. Drill through the remaining sides make a few entrances for the bees.\\nDrill the other marks as well to make multiple ways for the bees to crawl into your trap.\\nIf you aren’t able to connect the tunnels together, don’t worry. You could try widening the holes or drilling down through the top of the post to connect them all.\\n3. Installing the Trap\\n3-1. Twist the lid off of a Mason jar.\\nA half-pint jar has a lid about 2.8 in (7.1 cm) wide, the perfect size for your trap. Turn the metal ring on top of the jar counterclockwise by hand to free the lid. The lid is the flat piece of metal inside the ring. Pick up the lid and set it aside.\\nIf you don’t want to use a breakable jar, get a few plastic soda bottles instead. Try cutting open one bottle and stapling the bottom half to the trap. Fit a second bottle half over it to hold the bees.\\n3-2. Use a marker to mark the spots you need to punch through the lid.\\nUse a ruler to measure the lid’s diameter. Find where the center is and mark it. Then, calculate the halfway points between the center and the rim of the lid. Mark these spots as well.\\nMake sure you measure across the center of the lid. Hold the ruler very still until you’re done so the spots are properly aligned.\\nThe center marking will be an opening for the bees to crawl through. The other spots are there to secure the lid to the trap.\\n3-3. Use a metal punch to poke holes through the lid.\\nSet the lid on top of a piece of scrap wood. Then, position a metal punch over one of the marks. Hammer the opposite end of the punch until it breaks through the lid. Repeat this with the other marks you made..\\nThe punch can damage any surface underneath it. Work over something you don’t plan on keeping, such as a piece of scrap wood.\\n3-4. Widen the center hole using a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) metal drill bit.\\nThis time you’re going to need to drill through a harder material, so make sure you’re using a heavy-duty bit designed to cut through metal. Drill down through the center hole to widen it. Keep widening it until it matches the tunnel hole you made on the bottom of the wood post.\\nBe careful not to damage anything underneath the thin lid. Hold it down firmly against a piece of scrap wood that the drill bit can pass through without issue. Throw away the scrap wood when you’re done.\\nIf you use the wrong drill bit, it could burn out your drill as well as ruin the lid, so choose carefully.\\n3-5. Screw the lid to the underside of the trap.\\nPlace the lid back inside the Mason jar’s ring. Then, position the ring over the hole on the bottom edge of the wood post. Fit a pair of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) wood screws into the smaller holes you punched through the lid. Finish securing the lid by using a screwdriver to turn the screws clockwise.\\nScrew the holes straight into the wood so they don’t end up crossing into the bee tunnel. Then, make sure the lid is securely in place before attempting to position a Mason jar on it.\\n3-6. Make a pilot hole through the trap’s top if you plan on hanging it.\\nYou will need a wood drill bit approximately ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) in size. Flip the trap over so the Mason jar side is facedown. Position your drill bit along the center of the trap, then drill down into it. This hole only needs to be short so it doesn’t reach the bee tunnels you made earlier.\\nThe length of the hole depends on the length of the eye screw you plan on using. It needs to be the same length as the screw. Normally, it will be 2 in (5.1 cm) or less.\\nIf you made your bee trap differently, be careful not to drill all the way through the wood. For instance, if you made a box using flat boards, don’t let the drill pierce through the top of the trap.\\n3-7. Twist an eye screw into the hole to hang the trap.\\nUse a screw the same length as the hole you made. Set the screw end in the hole, then turn it clockwise until it feels tight and sturdy. You can then hang the trap by threading a rope or a hanging hook through the screw’s eye. Find space for the trap near your deck or other spots carpenter bees tend to invade.\\nHang the trap near where you notice bees or near spots you think they might visit. With a screw hook, you can hang up a trap just about anywhere.\\nIf you’re not planning on hanging the trap, set it up on a stable surface near where the bees gather. Put it up high, such as on a table or railing.\\n3-8. Fit the Mason Jar onto the lid to complete the trap.\\nAfter hanging up the trap, move the Mason jar toward the lid. It should fit into the ring holding the lid in place. Turn the jar counterclockwise until it hangs in place. When the jar fills with bees, you can unscrew it again to clean it out.\\nThe jar is where the bees go when they want to leave. The light attracts them there. It works the same way whether you use a jar, plastic bottles, or another clear material.\\nTips\\nThere are many ways to customize a bee trap, such as by using different material or making it a different shape. You could also make a bigger trap if you need to.\\nTo identify carpenter bee nests, look for holes and sawdust in wood. Spray a powder insecticide into the holes, then plug them up after the bees are gone.\\nTo drown the bees quickly, add a couple of drops of liquid dish soap to 1⁄4 cup (59 mL) water. When you empty the trap, replace the water.\\nWarnings\\nThe trap could possibly catch other types of bees pollinating nearby flowers and plants. To avoid this, set up the trap only near wood with carpenter bee nests.\\nCarpenter bees are not aggressive but can sting you if they feel threatened. Be careful when approaching their nests.\\nPower tools and saws are dangerous, so always use common safety practices. That includes wearing eye goggles and a dust mask.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Carpenter bees are a destructive nuisance that dig nesting holes through fascia boards, decks, and other wood structures. Although they aren’t dangerous, they do a lot of damage when they show up in spring. Fortunately, you can build an environmentally-friendly trap even if you don’t have a lot of crafting experience. Gather a wooden post along with a few other supplies, then make tunnels for the bees to enter the trap. Install a Mason jar or another transparent object to hold the bees. Then, check back every day as the trap rids your home of the unwanted pests.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cutting the Wood\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase pressure-treated wood to make the base of the trap.\", \"描述\": \"Carpenter bees build their nests in soft pieces of wood, so avoid untreated lumber. Head to a hardware store or repurpose any wood scraps you have laying around. Pine and cedar are a couple of options for an inexpensive but effective trap. For an easy trap that doesn’t require a lot of cutting, get:\\nA 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) wood post at least 7 in (18 cm) in height.\\nPressure-treated wood often has a faint green hue and smells like oil. The wood may also have a stamp like “L P22” on it to indicate that it has been treated.\\nYou can design your trap differently if you wish to. For instance, if you’re good with crafts, try cutting boards and nailing them together to make a square box.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put on eye goggles and a dust mask before working on the trap.\", \"描述\": \"Whenever you plan on cutting or drilling wood for the trap, cover up to avoid sawdust and wood shards. Keep other people out of the areas while you work. Consider also working outdoors or ventilating your workspace by opening nearby doors and windows.\\nWear a short-sleeved shirt so you don’t have to worry about loose fabric getting caught in your tools. Also, don’t wear jewelry and tie back your hair if it is long.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the wood post until it’s 7 in (18 cm) in length.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re working with a long post, trim it to size first. Measure up from one end of the post and mark the distance in pencil. Then, use a circular saw or handsaw to cut horizontally across the post. Set aside the part you aren’t planning on using for the trap.\\nThe post doesn’t have to be very long in order to direct bees into the trap. In fact, leaving the post relatively small makes the trap easier to handle.\\nIf you have excess wood to spare, you could make additional traps with the material you cut.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure and mark a diagonal angle at the top of the post.\", \"描述\": \"Measure about 7 in (18 cm) up along one side of the post. Make another mark about 4 in (10 cm) up the opposite side of the post. Use a ruler to draw a diagonal line connecting the points. The line will be at about a 45-degree angle and is used to cut the top part of the trap.\\nMaking this angle helps later with creating tunnels for the bees to enter. You could also do it without cutting the post at an angle, but it makes the tunnels trickier to line up.\\nIf you don’t wish to do this, you could leave the top alone and instead make a tunnel all the way through the post. Then, cover the top hole with a plank so the bees can’t escape that way.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use a saw to trim the post along the traced line.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the post still again. To make the cutting process easier if you’re using a handsaw, pin it to a workbench or sawhorse with a bench clamp. If you’re using a circular saw, hold the wood so the saw slices across the line you made. This will leave the post with an angled top you can use to hang the trap later.\\nThe angled top prevents light from filtering into the trap’s tunnels, so the bees won’t have as much of an opportunity to escape.\\nIf you don’t plan on cutting the top, try nailing a board to it. The board will cover up any holes as well as give you a place to safely install a hanging mechanism.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Bee Tunnels\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drill through the bottom of the post using a ⁄8 in (2.2 cm) bit.\", \"描述\": \"Flip the post over so the flat, bottom edge faces upward. Position the drill bit directly over the center of the post. Carefully drill straight down, creating a hole about 4 in (10 cm) deep.\\nYou can measure your drill bit ahead of time to ensure the hole is the correct length. If the drill bit is too long, mark it with tape so you know when to stop drilling.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark entry holes 2 in (5.1 cm) up the sides of the post.\", \"描述\": \"Measure up from the bottom edge of the post on one side. The holes also need to be about ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) from the sides of the post in order to keep your trap sturdy. Mark the spot in pencil, then repeat the process on the other 3 sides.\\nMake sure the marks are well-positioned before you start drilling! These will be the entrance points for the bees, so if they aren’t in the right spot, they won’t connect.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Position a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) drill bit diagonally on the mark.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the post flat and start with one of the marks you made on the sides of the trap. Point the drill bit up toward the top of the trap at a 45-degree angle. If you angle the drill properly, the new holes will end up connecting to the center tunnel, giving the bees nowhere to go but down.\\nThe tunnels have to be angled upward in order to prevent light from getting into the trap. It causes the bees to head toward the clear jar placed at the bottom of the trap.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill through the marks you made on the trap’s sides.\", \"描述\": \"Drill all the way in until you reach the center of the trap. The hole needs to be about 4 in (10 cm) deep. You will eventually feel the drill bit reach the initial tunnel you made through the bottom of the post. Drill through the remaining sides make a few entrances for the bees.\\nDrill the other marks as well to make multiple ways for the bees to crawl into your trap.\\nIf you aren’t able to connect the tunnels together, don’t worry. You could try widening the holes or drilling down through the top of the post to connect them all.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Trap\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Twist the lid off of a Mason jar.\", \"描述\": \"A half-pint jar has a lid about 2.8 in (7.1 cm) wide, the perfect size for your trap. Turn the metal ring on top of the jar counterclockwise by hand to free the lid. The lid is the flat piece of metal inside the ring. Pick up the lid and set it aside.\\nIf you don’t want to use a breakable jar, get a few plastic soda bottles instead. Try cutting open one bottle and stapling the bottom half to the trap. Fit a second bottle half over it to hold the bees.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a marker to mark the spots you need to punch through the lid.\", \"描述\": \"Use a ruler to measure the lid’s diameter. Find where the center is and mark it. Then, calculate the halfway points between the center and the rim of the lid. Mark these spots as well.\\nMake sure you measure across the center of the lid. Hold the ruler very still until you’re done so the spots are properly aligned.\\nThe center marking will be an opening for the bees to crawl through. The other spots are there to secure the lid to the trap.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a metal punch to poke holes through the lid.\", \"描述\": \"Set the lid on top of a piece of scrap wood. Then, position a metal punch over one of the marks. Hammer the opposite end of the punch until it breaks through the lid. Repeat this with the other marks you made..\\nThe punch can damage any surface underneath it. Work over something you don’t plan on keeping, such as a piece of scrap wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Widen the center hole using a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) metal drill bit.\", \"描述\": \"This time you’re going to need to drill through a harder material, so make sure you’re using a heavy-duty bit designed to cut through metal. Drill down through the center hole to widen it. Keep widening it until it matches the tunnel hole you made on the bottom of the wood post.\\nBe careful not to damage anything underneath the thin lid. Hold it down firmly against a piece of scrap wood that the drill bit can pass through without issue. Throw away the scrap wood when you’re done.\\nIf you use the wrong drill bit, it could burn out your drill as well as ruin the lid, so choose carefully.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw the lid to the underside of the trap.\", \"描述\": \"Place the lid back inside the Mason jar’s ring. Then, position the ring over the hole on the bottom edge of the wood post. Fit a pair of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) wood screws into the smaller holes you punched through the lid. Finish securing the lid by using a screwdriver to turn the screws clockwise.\\nScrew the holes straight into the wood so they don’t end up crossing into the bee tunnel. Then, make sure the lid is securely in place before attempting to position a Mason jar on it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make a pilot hole through the trap’s top if you plan on hanging it.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a wood drill bit approximately ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) in size. Flip the trap over so the Mason jar side is facedown. Position your drill bit along the center of the trap, then drill down into it. This hole only needs to be short so it doesn’t reach the bee tunnels you made earlier.\\nThe length of the hole depends on the length of the eye screw you plan on using. It needs to be the same length as the screw. Normally, it will be 2 in (5.1 cm) or less.\\nIf you made your bee trap differently, be careful not to drill all the way through the wood. For instance, if you made a box using flat boards, don’t let the drill pierce through the top of the trap.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Twist an eye screw into the hole to hang the trap.\", \"描述\": \"Use a screw the same length as the hole you made. Set the screw end in the hole, then turn it clockwise until it feels tight and sturdy. You can then hang the trap by threading a rope or a hanging hook through the screw’s eye. Find space for the trap near your deck or other spots carpenter bees tend to invade.\\nHang the trap near where you notice bees or near spots you think they might visit. With a screw hook, you can hang up a trap just about anywhere.\\nIf you’re not planning on hanging the trap, set it up on a stable surface near where the bees gather. Put it up high, such as on a table or railing.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Fit the Mason Jar onto the lid to complete the trap.\", \"描述\": \"After hanging up the trap, move the Mason jar toward the lid. It should fit into the ring holding the lid in place. Turn the jar counterclockwise until it hangs in place. When the jar fills with bees, you can unscrew it again to clean it out.\\nThe jar is where the bees go when they want to leave. The light attracts them there. It works the same way whether you use a jar, plastic bottles, or another clear material.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"There are many ways to customize a bee trap, such as by using different material or making it a different shape. You could also make a bigger trap if you need to.\\n\", \"To identify carpenter bee nests, look for holes and sawdust in wood. Spray a powder insecticide into the holes, then plug them up after the bees are gone.\\n\", \"To drown the bees quickly, add a couple of drops of liquid dish soap to 1⁄4 cup (59 mL) water. When you empty the trap, replace the water.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"The trap could possibly catch other types of bees pollinating nearby flowers and plants. To avoid this, set up the trap only near wood with carpenter bee nests.\\n\", \"Carpenter bees are not aggressive but can sting you if they feel threatened. Be careful when approaching their nests.\\n\", \"Power tools and saws are dangerous, so always use common safety practices. That includes wearing eye goggles and a dust mask.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,257 |
How to Build a Carport
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1. Preparing the Ground
1-1. Get the necessary building permits.
Check with your local city planning office to make sure your building project is up to code. Additions and construction on residential property can significantly affect the property value of the home, making it important to clear projects with the city. In some areas, you'll likely need to produce structurally sound building drawings bearing the signature of a licensed structural engineer. To obtain the necessary permits, you'll likely need to produce:
Proof of property ownership
Permit application worksheets, provided by the city
Construction drawings
1-2. Purchase the necessary building materials.
You can build carports from wood or metal, depending on the style and type of precipitation from which you hope to guard your vehicle. Depending on the climate where you live, different materials and designs may be more or less appropriate. Feel free to customize the basic design and use whatever materials are available or cheap, depending on the type of carport you want to make. It's a good opportunity to experiment.
may be more appropriate for drier climates, but will prove to be more durable and customizable in the long run regardless of the climate. A wooden structure built properly will be much sturdier than other structures. If you want a long-term place to park a car, go with lumber.
"Galvanized metal" carports are much cheaper and quicker to install, though ultimately less sturdy in the long run. If you need a quick, cheap place to house a daily-driver, it's a good option. Often, pre-fabricated carports made of galvanized metal are the best bet for a DIYer in need of a quick project.
1-3. Measure the ground.
To accommodate an average-sized car, measure a rectangle at least 16 feet (4.9 m) long and nine feet wide. Plot this rectangle on the ground. A basic carport requires six posts, one at each corner of the rectangle, and two more at the middle positions along the 16 foot (4.9 m) length.
If you've got a bigger car or truck, or you want to make a carport for multiple vehicles, make the necessary adjustments to accommodate for the size structure you hope to create.
1-4. Level the ground
Remove any grass in layers with a shovel, raking over the under layers with a metal rake, tamping it with foot-pressure and the same rake. It doesn't need to be perfect, but you might consider measuring for grade to make sure your ground is as flat as possible.
If you want to build a carport on an existing concrete pad, or the end of your driveway, that's perfectly appropriate. Measure the dimensions of your concrete pad and shape the structure to the ground, rather than the other way around. You can either build the structure with the poles to either side of the pad, anchoring them in the ground.
1-5. Pour ground cover, if necessary.
Bare ground is fine in some cases, but consider putting down a layer of crushed granite to avoid tracking dirt into the house and wearing down the ground around the carport over time. If you don't want to lay gravel, consider laying some dark weed matting down to keep grass and weeds from re-growing.
The best idea would be to pour concrete, or build on top of pre-existing concrete slab. This will give your carport the most life and durability.
1-6. Consider using a pre-fab carport kit.
The materials and the time can make building a carport a fairly intensive project, which might mean that a pre-fabricated kit might be more appropriate, given your wishes and your abilities.
Metal building materials are usually available for cheaper than the price of a lumber carport kit, complete with installation instructions. You can put it up in a day or so.
2. Building the Beams
2-1. Dig the holes for the posts.
Equally space hole posts around the perimeter of your measured outline for the carport, then use post-hole diggers to dig the holes. The holes should be at least two feet deep, and at least 4 feet deep for a more stable structure if you live in a high-wind climate, an area that receives lots of heavy snowfall or wherever frost occurs at grade.
2-2. Set the six posts.
For the simplest kind of structure, you'll need heavy-duty posts at least nine feet high on one side of the carport and 11 feet (3.4 m) high on the other side to give the roof enough of a slant to clear any amount of rainwater. The three higher posts should be on the side of the carport closest to the house to divert water away from the foundation of the home.
To set the posts, pour concrete six inches deep in the two-foot deep hole, then plant the post into the hole so it rests on the bottom. After the concrete has hardened, this will become your post footer, now you can back fill the hole with soil and tamp in the layers. Pour more concrete until the hole is filled. Use a level and make adjustments as the concrete is hardening to ensure that the post is perfectly vertical. Allow the concrete to harden for at least one full day before nailing on the beams.
2-3. Fasten the front and back beams first.
To secure the walls of the carport, you'll basically build a simple rectangular box approximately 16 feet (4.9 m) long, nine feet wide, and roughly seven feet high, secured onto the posts.
Secure two supporting crossbeams flat on the top of the shorter corner posts and extend to the higher corner posts about two feet down from their tops. Next, nail them to the higher posts using T-shape hangers that can be purchased at any hardware store. Before nailing the beams down through the T-shape hangers, make sure they are level.
2-4. Fasten the side beams.
Nail crossbeams across your posts to secure them to the proper code specifications. The beam on the lower side should be nailed on top of the front and back beams, which themselves have been already nailed to the top of the corner posts. If necessary, you can shim to connect them by nailing on top of the middle post on the lower side, making the beam level across all three posts.
It's important to make your structure as secure as possible, especially if you live in snowy, windy, or other severe climates. For load-bearing specifications, you need to research the requirements in your area. There's no single, universal way of doing it, so defer to your local guidelines always.
3. Building the Roof
3-1. Fasten the rafters to the side beams.
The six 2” x 4” x 10' rafters that will support the roof can be fastened to the core box in one of two ways: the notch method or the hanger method. In either case, the front rafter and back rafter should be fastened flush with the front beam and the back beam. The remaining four rafters should be arranged equidistant from each other, along the length of the 16-foot side beams, about every 3–4 feet (0.9–1.2 m).
, the idea is to rest them on edge of the beams. To do this, put the front rafter in position, and note where it comes into contact with the side beams with a pencil mark. At that point, notch the rafter with the circular saw so that in the finished position the rafter sinks about 1/3 of the four inches onto the beam. Once you are satisfied with how this first rafter rests on the side beams, take it down and use it as a template to notch the other five rafters. When fastening the rafters, angle nails through the side of the rafter into the beam below. Note that notching will not work if you need it to remain flush with the beam.
, buy some metal joist hangers at the hardware store. There are many different shapes and styles of metal hangers that fasten 2” x 4”s to other structural elements in a variety of orientations. The relevant angle in this structure, the angle of the rafters to the beams, is about 25 degrees. These metal hangers can bend to accommodate small variations, so don't worry about finding the perfect one. Unlike with the notch method, with the hanger method the rafters rest on top of the beams. Your nails will go through the hanger into the rafter, then into the beam.
3-2. Fasten the plywood roof boards to the rafters.
Arrange the plywood sheets so that they produce a six-inch overhang on the front and back of the carport as well. This way you will have a uniform look to the carport.
Buy plywood sheets as large as you can get them. Typically, they come in 4' x 8' sheets, but sizes vary. The entire roof surface is 10' x 17'. Cut elements with the circular saw to produce the fewest number of seams. The fewer the seams, the less potential for water leakage.
The core box of your carport is nine feet wide and the rafters are ten feet long. This means that when the roof elements are in place, you will need enough plywood for about a six-inch overhang on either side of the cart port. If you want it to be longer, accommodate by buying more plywood.
Plywood comes in a variety of thicknesses. For this project you can use ½ inch thick plywood.
3-3. Check the stability of the structure.
Now that the roof is in place, your structure should be quite solid. Nothing you do from this point in the process to the end will improve the carport's overall stability, so if there is excessive movement, you will have to add stability braces on the outside of the structure to reinforce it.
4. Finishing the Job
4-1. Caulk the plywood roof seams
To keep the elements out, it's important to cover the roof with tar paper or a synthetic paper and create as waterproof a surface as possible before shingling over it. There's no sense in creating a carport to keep your car out of the rain if it leaks.
Would it be smarter to insulate the structure? Maybe, but probably not cost-effective. Remember, you're not building an addition to your house, you're building a simple structure to keep junk off your car.
4-2. Fasten shingles on top of the plywood roof elements
Visit the hardware store and buy enough three-tab shingles to lay over the plywood and finish the surface of the carport. It might be a good idea to nail some weather sheeting over the plywood before you lay the shingles for an extra layer of protection.
Alternatively, if you don't want to shingle the roof, you could skip the plywood roof step altogether and install a metal roof over the shingles. A slanted aluminum roof is common in outbuildings and you'll be that much closer to being finished. It might be a good idea, if you can stand the look of it and the loud sound of rain on metal.
4-3. Reinforce the joints with metal plates.
For extra stability in the places where the structure meets, it's a good idea to reinforce with metal bracing. Your hardware store sells a variety of metal plates that can be nailed onto the various joints in the structural composition, especially where the posts meet the beams, where the beams meet the rafters, and at other places.
4-4. Stain the wooden elements
Since you've gone to all the work, it's a good idea to treat the exposed wood with a coat of protecting stain. This will increase the life of the wood and keep you from having to repeat the project in a few years.
It's a good idea to restain regularly to keep the life of the structure up. Revisit your work periodically to catch up with repairs before they become a major problem.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing the Ground\\n1-1. Get the necessary building permits.\\nCheck with your local city planning office to make sure your building project is up to code. Additions and construction on residential property can significantly affect the property value of the home, making it important to clear projects with the city. In some areas, you'll likely need to produce structurally sound building drawings bearing the signature of a licensed structural engineer. To obtain the necessary permits, you'll likely need to produce:\\nProof of property ownership\\nPermit application worksheets, provided by the city\\nConstruction drawings\\n1-2. Purchase the necessary building materials.\\nYou can build carports from wood or metal, depending on the style and type of precipitation from which you hope to guard your vehicle. Depending on the climate where you live, different materials and designs may be more or less appropriate. Feel free to customize the basic design and use whatever materials are available or cheap, depending on the type of carport you want to make. It's a good opportunity to experiment.\\n\\n may be more appropriate for drier climates, but will prove to be more durable and customizable in the long run regardless of the climate. A wooden structure built properly will be much sturdier than other structures. If you want a long-term place to park a car, go with lumber.\\n\\\"Galvanized metal\\\" carports are much cheaper and quicker to install, though ultimately less sturdy in the long run. If you need a quick, cheap place to house a daily-driver, it's a good option. Often, pre-fabricated carports made of galvanized metal are the best bet for a DIYer in need of a quick project.\\n1-3. Measure the ground.\\nTo accommodate an average-sized car, measure a rectangle at least 16 feet (4.9 m) long and nine feet wide. Plot this rectangle on the ground. A basic carport requires six posts, one at each corner of the rectangle, and two more at the middle positions along the 16 foot (4.9 m) length.\\nIf you've got a bigger car or truck, or you want to make a carport for multiple vehicles, make the necessary adjustments to accommodate for the size structure you hope to create.\\n1-4. Level the ground\\nRemove any grass in layers with a shovel, raking over the under layers with a metal rake, tamping it with foot-pressure and the same rake. It doesn't need to be perfect, but you might consider measuring for grade to make sure your ground is as flat as possible.\\nIf you want to build a carport on an existing concrete pad, or the end of your driveway, that's perfectly appropriate. Measure the dimensions of your concrete pad and shape the structure to the ground, rather than the other way around. You can either build the structure with the poles to either side of the pad, anchoring them in the ground.\\n1-5. Pour ground cover, if necessary.\\nBare ground is fine in some cases, but consider putting down a layer of crushed granite to avoid tracking dirt into the house and wearing down the ground around the carport over time. If you don't want to lay gravel, consider laying some dark weed matting down to keep grass and weeds from re-growing.\\nThe best idea would be to pour concrete, or build on top of pre-existing concrete slab. This will give your carport the most life and durability.\\n1-6. Consider using a pre-fab carport kit.\\nThe materials and the time can make building a carport a fairly intensive project, which might mean that a pre-fabricated kit might be more appropriate, given your wishes and your abilities.\\nMetal building materials are usually available for cheaper than the price of a lumber carport kit, complete with installation instructions. You can put it up in a day or so.\\n2. Building the Beams\\n2-1. Dig the holes for the posts.\\nEqually space hole posts around the perimeter of your measured outline for the carport, then use post-hole diggers to dig the holes. The holes should be at least two feet deep, and at least 4 feet deep for a more stable structure if you live in a high-wind climate, an area that receives lots of heavy snowfall or wherever frost occurs at grade.\\n2-2. Set the six posts.\\nFor the simplest kind of structure, you'll need heavy-duty posts at least nine feet high on one side of the carport and 11 feet (3.4 m) high on the other side to give the roof enough of a slant to clear any amount of rainwater. The three higher posts should be on the side of the carport closest to the house to divert water away from the foundation of the home.\\nTo set the posts, pour concrete six inches deep in the two-foot deep hole, then plant the post into the hole so it rests on the bottom. After the concrete has hardened, this will become your post footer, now you can back fill the hole with soil and tamp in the layers. Pour more concrete until the hole is filled. Use a level and make adjustments as the concrete is hardening to ensure that the post is perfectly vertical. Allow the concrete to harden for at least one full day before nailing on the beams.\\n2-3. Fasten the front and back beams first.\\nTo secure the walls of the carport, you'll basically build a simple rectangular box approximately 16 feet (4.9 m) long, nine feet wide, and roughly seven feet high, secured onto the posts.\\nSecure two supporting crossbeams flat on the top of the shorter corner posts and extend to the higher corner posts about two feet down from their tops. Next, nail them to the higher posts using T-shape hangers that can be purchased at any hardware store. Before nailing the beams down through the T-shape hangers, make sure they are level.\\n2-4. Fasten the side beams.\\nNail crossbeams across your posts to secure them to the proper code specifications. The beam on the lower side should be nailed on top of the front and back beams, which themselves have been already nailed to the top of the corner posts. If necessary, you can shim to connect them by nailing on top of the middle post on the lower side, making the beam level across all three posts.\\nIt's important to make your structure as secure as possible, especially if you live in snowy, windy, or other severe climates. For load-bearing specifications, you need to research the requirements in your area. There's no single, universal way of doing it, so defer to your local guidelines always.\\n3. Building the Roof\\n3-1. Fasten the rafters to the side beams.\\nThe six 2” x 4” x 10' rafters that will support the roof can be fastened to the core box in one of two ways: the notch method or the hanger method. In either case, the front rafter and back rafter should be fastened flush with the front beam and the back beam. The remaining four rafters should be arranged equidistant from each other, along the length of the 16-foot side beams, about every 3–4 feet (0.9–1.2 m).\\n\\n, the idea is to rest them on edge of the beams. To do this, put the front rafter in position, and note where it comes into contact with the side beams with a pencil mark. At that point, notch the rafter with the circular saw so that in the finished position the rafter sinks about 1/3 of the four inches onto the beam. Once you are satisfied with how this first rafter rests on the side beams, take it down and use it as a template to notch the other five rafters. When fastening the rafters, angle nails through the side of the rafter into the beam below. Note that notching will not work if you need it to remain flush with the beam.\\n, buy some metal joist hangers at the hardware store. There are many different shapes and styles of metal hangers that fasten 2” x 4”s to other structural elements in a variety of orientations. The relevant angle in this structure, the angle of the rafters to the beams, is about 25 degrees. These metal hangers can bend to accommodate small variations, so don't worry about finding the perfect one. Unlike with the notch method, with the hanger method the rafters rest on top of the beams. Your nails will go through the hanger into the rafter, then into the beam.\\n3-2. Fasten the plywood roof boards to the rafters.\\nArrange the plywood sheets so that they produce a six-inch overhang on the front and back of the carport as well. This way you will have a uniform look to the carport.\\nBuy plywood sheets as large as you can get them. Typically, they come in 4' x 8' sheets, but sizes vary. The entire roof surface is 10' x 17'. Cut elements with the circular saw to produce the fewest number of seams. The fewer the seams, the less potential for water leakage.\\nThe core box of your carport is nine feet wide and the rafters are ten feet long. This means that when the roof elements are in place, you will need enough plywood for about a six-inch overhang on either side of the cart port. If you want it to be longer, accommodate by buying more plywood.\\nPlywood comes in a variety of thicknesses. For this project you can use ½ inch thick plywood.\\n3-3. Check the stability of the structure.\\nNow that the roof is in place, your structure should be quite solid. Nothing you do from this point in the process to the end will improve the carport's overall stability, so if there is excessive movement, you will have to add stability braces on the outside of the structure to reinforce it.\\n4. Finishing the Job\\n4-1. Caulk the plywood roof seams\\nTo keep the elements out, it's important to cover the roof with tar paper or a synthetic paper and create as waterproof a surface as possible before shingling over it. There's no sense in creating a carport to keep your car out of the rain if it leaks.\\nWould it be smarter to insulate the structure? Maybe, but probably not cost-effective. Remember, you're not building an addition to your house, you're building a simple structure to keep junk off your car.\\n4-2. Fasten shingles on top of the plywood roof elements\\nVisit the hardware store and buy enough three-tab shingles to lay over the plywood and finish the surface of the carport. It might be a good idea to nail some weather sheeting over the plywood before you lay the shingles for an extra layer of protection.\\nAlternatively, if you don't want to shingle the roof, you could skip the plywood roof step altogether and install a metal roof over the shingles. A slanted aluminum roof is common in outbuildings and you'll be that much closer to being finished. It might be a good idea, if you can stand the look of it and the loud sound of rain on metal.\\n4-3. Reinforce the joints with metal plates.\\nFor extra stability in the places where the structure meets, it's a good idea to reinforce with metal bracing. Your hardware store sells a variety of metal plates that can be nailed onto the various joints in the structural composition, especially where the posts meet the beams, where the beams meet the rafters, and at other places.\\n4-4. Stain the wooden elements\\nSince you've gone to all the work, it's a good idea to treat the exposed wood with a coat of protecting stain. This will increase the life of the wood and keep you from having to repeat the project in a few years.\\nIt's a good idea to restain regularly to keep the life of the structure up. Revisit your work periodically to catch up with repairs before they become a major problem.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Carports are standalone structures useful for protecting your car, boat, or other motor vehicle from the elements. Some are built on top of secure foundations while others are freestanding structures. If you've been parking your vehicles outside, investing in a protective structure to house them in can increase the life of your vehicles and even increase the value of the home if you build your project to code. Learning to prep the ground, plan the appropriate kind of structure, and build it from the ground up is a lot easier than you may think.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Ground\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get the necessary building permits.\", \"描述\": \"Check with your local city planning office to make sure your building project is up to code. Additions and construction on residential property can significantly affect the property value of the home, making it important to clear projects with the city. In some areas, you'll likely need to produce structurally sound building drawings bearing the signature of a licensed structural engineer. To obtain the necessary permits, you'll likely need to produce:\\nProof of property ownership\\nPermit application worksheets, provided by the city\\nConstruction drawings\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase the necessary building materials.\", \"描述\": \"You can build carports from wood or metal, depending on the style and type of precipitation from which you hope to guard your vehicle. Depending on the climate where you live, different materials and designs may be more or less appropriate. Feel free to customize the basic design and use whatever materials are available or cheap, depending on the type of carport you want to make. It's a good opportunity to experiment.\\n\\n may be more appropriate for drier climates, but will prove to be more durable and customizable in the long run regardless of the climate. A wooden structure built properly will be much sturdier than other structures. If you want a long-term place to park a car, go with lumber.\\n\\\"Galvanized metal\\\" carports are much cheaper and quicker to install, though ultimately less sturdy in the long run. If you need a quick, cheap place to house a daily-driver, it's a good option. Often, pre-fabricated carports made of galvanized metal are the best bet for a DIYer in need of a quick project.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure the ground.\", \"描述\": \"To accommodate an average-sized car, measure a rectangle at least 16 feet (4.9 m) long and nine feet wide. Plot this rectangle on the ground. A basic carport requires six posts, one at each corner of the rectangle, and two more at the middle positions along the 16 foot (4.9 m) length.\\nIf you've got a bigger car or truck, or you want to make a carport for multiple vehicles, make the necessary adjustments to accommodate for the size structure you hope to create.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Level the ground\", \"描述\": \"Remove any grass in layers with a shovel, raking over the under layers with a metal rake, tamping it with foot-pressure and the same rake. It doesn't need to be perfect, but you might consider measuring for grade to make sure your ground is as flat as possible.\\nIf you want to build a carport on an existing concrete pad, or the end of your driveway, that's perfectly appropriate. Measure the dimensions of your concrete pad and shape the structure to the ground, rather than the other way around. You can either build the structure with the poles to either side of the pad, anchoring them in the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pour ground cover, if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Bare ground is fine in some cases, but consider putting down a layer of crushed granite to avoid tracking dirt into the house and wearing down the ground around the carport over time. If you don't want to lay gravel, consider laying some dark weed matting down to keep grass and weeds from re-growing.\\nThe best idea would be to pour concrete, or build on top of pre-existing concrete slab. This will give your carport the most life and durability.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Consider using a pre-fab carport kit.\", \"描述\": \"The materials and the time can make building a carport a fairly intensive project, which might mean that a pre-fabricated kit might be more appropriate, given your wishes and your abilities.\\nMetal building materials are usually available for cheaper than the price of a lumber carport kit, complete with installation instructions. You can put it up in a day or so.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Beams\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig the holes for the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Equally space hole posts around the perimeter of your measured outline for the carport, then use post-hole diggers to dig the holes. The holes should be at least two feet deep, and at least 4 feet deep for a more stable structure if you live in a high-wind climate, an area that receives lots of heavy snowfall or wherever frost occurs at grade.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set the six posts.\", \"描述\": \"For the simplest kind of structure, you'll need heavy-duty posts at least nine feet high on one side of the carport and 11 feet (3.4 m) high on the other side to give the roof enough of a slant to clear any amount of rainwater. The three higher posts should be on the side of the carport closest to the house to divert water away from the foundation of the home.\\nTo set the posts, pour concrete six inches deep in the two-foot deep hole, then plant the post into the hole so it rests on the bottom. After the concrete has hardened, this will become your post footer, now you can back fill the hole with soil and tamp in the layers. Pour more concrete until the hole is filled. Use a level and make adjustments as the concrete is hardening to ensure that the post is perfectly vertical. Allow the concrete to harden for at least one full day before nailing on the beams.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fasten the front and back beams first.\", \"描述\": \"To secure the walls of the carport, you'll basically build a simple rectangular box approximately 16 feet (4.9 m) long, nine feet wide, and roughly seven feet high, secured onto the posts.\\nSecure two supporting crossbeams flat on the top of the shorter corner posts and extend to the higher corner posts about two feet down from their tops. Next, nail them to the higher posts using T-shape hangers that can be purchased at any hardware store. Before nailing the beams down through the T-shape hangers, make sure they are level.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fasten the side beams.\", \"描述\": \"Nail crossbeams across your posts to secure them to the proper code specifications. The beam on the lower side should be nailed on top of the front and back beams, which themselves have been already nailed to the top of the corner posts. If necessary, you can shim to connect them by nailing on top of the middle post on the lower side, making the beam level across all three posts.\\nIt's important to make your structure as secure as possible, especially if you live in snowy, windy, or other severe climates. For load-bearing specifications, you need to research the requirements in your area. There's no single, universal way of doing it, so defer to your local guidelines always.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fasten the rafters to the side beams.\", \"描述\": \"The six 2” x 4” x 10' rafters that will support the roof can be fastened to the core box in one of two ways: the notch method or the hanger method. In either case, the front rafter and back rafter should be fastened flush with the front beam and the back beam. The remaining four rafters should be arranged equidistant from each other, along the length of the 16-foot side beams, about every 3–4 feet (0.9–1.2 m).\\n\\n, the idea is to rest them on edge of the beams. To do this, put the front rafter in position, and note where it comes into contact with the side beams with a pencil mark. At that point, notch the rafter with the circular saw so that in the finished position the rafter sinks about 1/3 of the four inches onto the beam. Once you are satisfied with how this first rafter rests on the side beams, take it down and use it as a template to notch the other five rafters. When fastening the rafters, angle nails through the side of the rafter into the beam below. Note that notching will not work if you need it to remain flush with the beam.\\n, buy some metal joist hangers at the hardware store. There are many different shapes and styles of metal hangers that fasten 2” x 4”s to other structural elements in a variety of orientations. The relevant angle in this structure, the angle of the rafters to the beams, is about 25 degrees. These metal hangers can bend to accommodate small variations, so don't worry about finding the perfect one. Unlike with the notch method, with the hanger method the rafters rest on top of the beams. Your nails will go through the hanger into the rafter, then into the beam.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fasten the plywood roof boards to the rafters.\", \"描述\": \"Arrange the plywood sheets so that they produce a six-inch overhang on the front and back of the carport as well. This way you will have a uniform look to the carport.\\nBuy plywood sheets as large as you can get them. Typically, they come in 4' x 8' sheets, but sizes vary. The entire roof surface is 10' x 17'. Cut elements with the circular saw to produce the fewest number of seams. The fewer the seams, the less potential for water leakage.\\nThe core box of your carport is nine feet wide and the rafters are ten feet long. This means that when the roof elements are in place, you will need enough plywood for about a six-inch overhang on either side of the cart port. If you want it to be longer, accommodate by buying more plywood.\\nPlywood comes in a variety of thicknesses. For this project you can use ½ inch thick plywood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Check the stability of the structure.\", \"描述\": \"Now that the roof is in place, your structure should be quite solid. Nothing you do from this point in the process to the end will improve the carport's overall stability, so if there is excessive movement, you will have to add stability braces on the outside of the structure to reinforce it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Job\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Caulk the plywood roof seams\", \"描述\": \"To keep the elements out, it's important to cover the roof with tar paper or a synthetic paper and create as waterproof a surface as possible before shingling over it. There's no sense in creating a carport to keep your car out of the rain if it leaks.\\nWould it be smarter to insulate the structure? Maybe, but probably not cost-effective. Remember, you're not building an addition to your house, you're building a simple structure to keep junk off your car.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fasten shingles on top of the plywood roof elements\", \"描述\": \"Visit the hardware store and buy enough three-tab shingles to lay over the plywood and finish the surface of the carport. It might be a good idea to nail some weather sheeting over the plywood before you lay the shingles for an extra layer of protection.\\nAlternatively, if you don't want to shingle the roof, you could skip the plywood roof step altogether and install a metal roof over the shingles. A slanted aluminum roof is common in outbuildings and you'll be that much closer to being finished. It might be a good idea, if you can stand the look of it and the loud sound of rain on metal.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Reinforce the joints with metal plates.\", \"描述\": \"For extra stability in the places where the structure meets, it's a good idea to reinforce with metal bracing. Your hardware store sells a variety of metal plates that can be nailed onto the various joints in the structural composition, especially where the posts meet the beams, where the beams meet the rafters, and at other places.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stain the wooden elements\", \"描述\": \"Since you've gone to all the work, it's a good idea to treat the exposed wood with a coat of protecting stain. This will increase the life of the wood and keep you from having to repeat the project in a few years.\\nIt's a good idea to restain regularly to keep the life of the structure up. Revisit your work periodically to catch up with repairs before they become a major problem.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,258 |
How to Build a Cart for a Kayak or Canoe
|
1. Steps
1-1. Connect one 10" PVC into each side of a T junction.
Do this twice to form the rails that the cart will rest on.
1-2. Slide the 8" pool noodles over the four 10" PVCs from the previous step.
1-3. Connect the 4" PVCs into the bottom hole on each T.
1-4. Connect the second set of T's into the bottom of the PVCs in the previous step.
1-5. Connect the 8-1/2" PVC between the two Ts to unite the two rails as one piece.
1-6. Insert the 2" PVCs in the bottom of these Ts.
1-7. Attach end caps to all open ended PVC pipes.
1-8. Put all caps in place.
Drill a 3/4" hole into each of the 2" pipes for the axle to fit through. Then insert the axle.
1-9. Put 1 washer, 1 lock washer and 1 nut on each side of each tire.
Then put the wheels with the hardware on the axle.
1-10. Ensure all fittings and fixtures are secure.
Your cart is now ready to be used for transporting your kayak/canoe.
Tips
The PVC cement is optional. If you would like your cart to be permanent, then you can apply the PVC cement at every connection (following the manufacturers instruction) to ensure that the pipes do not move. If you think that you may make changes to the cart in the future, do not use the cement.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Connect one 10\\\" PVC into each side of a T junction.\\nDo this twice to form the rails that the cart will rest on.\\n1-2. Slide the 8\\\" pool noodles over the four 10\\\" PVCs from the previous step.\\n\\n1-3. Connect the 4\\\" PVCs into the bottom hole on each T.\\n\\n1-4. Connect the second set of T's into the bottom of the PVCs in the previous step.\\n\\n1-5. Connect the 8-1/2\\\" PVC between the two Ts to unite the two rails as one piece.\\n\\n1-6. Insert the 2\\\" PVCs in the bottom of these Ts.\\n\\n1-7. Attach end caps to all open ended PVC pipes.\\n\\n1-8. Put all caps in place.\\nDrill a 3/4\\\" hole into each of the 2\\\" pipes for the axle to fit through. Then insert the axle.\\n1-9. Put 1 washer, 1 lock washer and 1 nut on each side of each tire.\\nThen put the wheels with the hardware on the axle.\\n1-10. Ensure all fittings and fixtures are secure.\\nYour cart is now ready to be used for transporting your kayak/canoe.\\nTips\\nThe PVC cement is optional. If you would like your cart to be permanent, then you can apply the PVC cement at every connection (following the manufacturers instruction) to ensure that the pipes do not move. If you think that you may make changes to the cart in the future, do not use the cement.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you have your own kayak or canoe, you may have struggled with how to transport it easily. With a little bit of work, you can make your own easy, affordable transportation cart.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect one 10\\\" PVC into each side of a T junction.\", \"描述\": \"Do this twice to form the rails that the cart will rest on.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Slide the 8\\\" pool noodles over the four 10\\\" PVCs from the previous step.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the 4\\\" PVCs into the bottom hole on each T.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the second set of T's into the bottom of the PVCs in the previous step.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect the 8-1/2\\\" PVC between the two Ts to unite the two rails as one piece.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Insert the 2\\\" PVCs in the bottom of these Ts.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach end caps to all open ended PVC pipes.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Put all caps in place.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a 3/4\\\" hole into each of the 2\\\" pipes for the axle to fit through. Then insert the axle.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Put 1 washer, 1 lock washer and 1 nut on each side of each tire.\", \"描述\": \"Then put the wheels with the hardware on the axle.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Ensure all fittings and fixtures are secure.\", \"描述\": \"Your cart is now ready to be used for transporting your kayak/canoe.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The PVC cement is optional. If you would like your cart to be permanent, then you can apply the PVC cement at every connection (following the manufacturers instruction) to ensure that the pipes do not move. If you think that you may make changes to the cart in the future, do not use the cement.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,259 |
How to Build a Castle out of Cardboard Boxes
|
1. Crafting a Model Castle
1-1. Find suitable cardboard boxes.
A sturdy, nicely shaped box would be best. A good example is a box used for printer paper. Cereal boxes, tissue boxes, or shoe boxes would work as well. Also collect four cardboard rolls, these can either be toilet paper or paper towel rolls depending on the size of your castle.
The cardboard rolls will make the turrets on your castle, so make sure that the other boxes you choose are shorter.
If you can't find any cardboard rolls, make your own using poster paper. You can make them whatever height you want.
1-2. Plan your castle design.
Look at photos or illustrations of real castles for inspiration and create a design on paper. In the case of this article, it's going to be kept simple with just four walls with a traditional rampart design, and four rolls to act as turrets. Then a moat will be added surrounding the castle. If you do design the castle with more complexity, consider:
Creating turrets which are cut out separately and can stand alone.
Making one central tall tower for the prince or princess to be stuck in, with a window for the unfortunate royal to stare through.
1-3. Set the cardboard pieces in place to get an idea of the shape of the castle.
With the box on your working surface, set the four long rolls to each corner of the photocopy paper box (don't physically attach them yet––this gets done later.) Assess the size of the turrets to the main castle box. Adjust the turret size if needed.
If you would like the turrets to be taller, you can switch to a longer roll, like a paper towel or wrapping paper roll.
To make the turrets shorter, simply cut the current rolls down to size. Be sure that you measure and cut all four rolls to the same height.
1-4. Cut the ramparts design into the top of the box.
Ramparts are the surrounding walls of the castle and commonly have alternating squares and open square spaces. Use a ruler to measure and trace evenly spaced squares on the top of your box. Using scissors, cut out every other square to create the rampart walls of the castle.
Another option is cutting a square template from a piece of cardboard and tracing that square all the way around the box.
Attempt to measure the square to a size which will fit all the way around the box in even spacing.
1-5. Draw a stone design on a large sheet of tin foil.
Measure out enough tin foil to cover a wall of the castle. Lay this sheet of foil on your working surface and draw an alternating stone pattern using a permanent black marker.
To do this, start at the bottom and draw rectangles of approximately the same size, one connected to the other, all the way across the bottom of the tin foil.
To create the next row of stones above this one, start at the center point of the first rectangle on the bottom row and draw a rectangle which covers the left half of the top of the first brick and the right half of the top of the second brick.
Continue following this pattern until you have reached the top.
If you prefer a more muted look to your castle, you can opt to use gray or tan Bristol Board or craft paper.
1-6. Cover the entire castle in the decorated foil.
This will get rid of the cardboard look and it will create the smooth, shiny surface. Apply a decent coverage of craft glue to the cardboard and press the foil in place on each wall and wrapped around the turrets. The walls should be covered on both the front and back.
Wrap the excess foil around the tops of the walls to cover any exposed cardboard.
Gather the foil together at the top of the turrets to cover the hole in the top of the roll.
1-7. Attach the turrets to the corners of your castle wall.
Measure the height of the corner of your castle wall. Draw a line in pencil up the side of the turret which matches the length of the corner of the castle wall. Start at the bottom and continue drawing up toward the top of the turret. Using scissors, cut slits in the turrets along this line. Place glue along the cut edges. Wedge each turret onto a corner of the box. Press and hold the glued edges to the corner of the castle wall until it feels secure.
Alternatively, you can hot glue the turrets to the corners of the castle.
1-8. Create a moat around the castle.
Cut a piece of blue Bristol Board or craft into a square shape with rounded edges, that is larger than the castle and gives the appearance of a lake or moat surrounding the castle. The reflection on the foil makes for a nice water effect.
1-9. Build the castle bridge.
Cut a small piece of black craft paper into a rectangle with a rounded top for the appearance of space going into the castle. Then trace around that black doorway onto a piece of brown paper or cardboard and cut that brown shape out to form the bridge. Glue the black piece to the front wall of the castle to create the door space. Place the brown piece flat down in front of the door space and glue it to the moat.
Measure to be sure the bridge will be long enough to cross the moat.
To create a drawbridge effect, glue a piece of string to each side of the top of the black doorway. Glue the other end of the strings to top of the bridge on each side. This will create the effect of the chains used to draw up the bridge.
1-10. Add anything else that you think completes the castle's overall appearance.
In this case, the turrets have been finished with roofs and flags and some banners have been hung from the ramparts.
To make turret roofs, simply make cones from paper in the correct width and glue into place over the top of each turret tube.
Cut medieval flag and banner shapes from craft paper and glue them to toothpicks to create flags which you can glue into the tops of your turret roofs. You can also glue banners on the front, top end of your rampart wall over the doorway.
2. Building a Play Castle
2-1. Start with a large cardboard box.
Some of your best options would be a wardrobe box or a refrigerator box. You want something large enough that your child can crawl inside and play.
You can purchase wardrobe boxes from a moving company.
Try getting free boxes from a local store which sells appliances.
For multiple sections and levels to your castle, choose boxes of different shapes and sizes. Washer and dryer boxes would work well for this.
2-2. Reinforce the box with tape.
Set up the box with the top flaps reaching upward. Tape the corners of the flaps together on the inside of the box using packaging tape. This creates more height with an opening on top of the box.
If you would like to add some fun color to your box, you can use a colored tape, like painters tape on the outside of the corners instead. Consider also using this tape to create the stone effect all around the outside.
2-3. Create a rampart wall effect along the top of the box.
Measure the top of one side of the box from corner to corner. Divide that length by an even number such as 12 or 8. Using a ruler, and starting in the corner of one side of the top of the box, measure out and draw a square with sides the length of one section according to your calculations. Using a box-cutter, cut out this square. You will use this as a template.
If your box is 24x24x24, and you divide by 12, your template would be a 2-inch square.
Place the template next to the cut square hole in the top of the box. Line the edge of the square to one side of the cut.
Trace the other side of the template onto the top of the box, then move the template, lining an edge on this line. Finish tracing the rest of the square and cut it out of the top of the box.
Repeat this process all the way around the top of the box, creating an alternating square and cut section to make the rampart effect.
2-4. Create a window.
Draw a window on the top, left corner of your castle. This should be a thin rectangle with a rounded top. You want it to be just large enough for your child to be able to peek through. Cut the window out using a box cutting knife.
For a Gothic castle make the windows peaked on top, like an ^.
2-5. Make a doorway.
On the bottom, left of the box, draw a rectangle with a rounded top. This should be larger than your window and wide enough for your child to crawl through. Cut this door out with your box cutting knife. Only cut the two sides and the top, leaving the bottom section attached to the box.
Be careful when cutting out the doorway that you do not damage the piece which is being cut to make the space. This will become your drawbridge.
2-6. Attach a drawbridge.
Using a drill or screwdriver, puncture two holes in the box, one on each side of the top of the doorway. Thread a piece of nylon rope through these holes from front to back, then tie a knot on the inside of the box. Puncture two more holes one each side of the top of the drawbridge section you have cut out. Push the other end of each rope through these holes and tie knots on the section that is touching the ground to secure the rope in place.
It is helpful to reinforce these holes by taping around the cut edges with packaging tape. This will make the area more durable.
Your child can raise and lower the drawbridge by pulling on the knots in the rope from the inside the box.
2-7. Draw details around your window and doorway.
Using a large marker or paint, draw a keystone at the top of the arch of the doorway. This is a quadrilateral slightly larger than a square, with the two sides expanding at a slight angle. The top side will, consequently, be slightly larger than the bottom. You can make this top side slightly rounded.
Using the keystone as your starting point, draw similar quadrilaterals from the top of the arch, all the way to the bottom of the doorway. Repeat this on the other side.
Use this same technique to create detail around the window. Also draw squares along the bottom of the window. These should be roughly the same size as your quadrilaterals.
2-8. Draw your castle walls.
Using paint or a thick, permanent marker, draw a stone design onto your box. Start by drawing a horizontal rectangle along the bottom of your box and connecting equally-sized rectangles all the way around the bottom.
To draw the second layer, Start at the center point of one of the rectangles and draw a line upward from there to create the side of the rectangle to begin your second layer of stones. The other side should rise up from the center of the next stone on the bottom layer. Connect these sides with a line on the top.
Repeat this system until you have covered the walls of your castle in stones.
This step is great for getting your child involved. You can also draw the lines in pencil and have your child trace them with a marker or paint.
2-9. Expand your castle.
If you would like to make a larger castle, attach another box to this main one. Using a smaller box than the original, line it up to the side of the main box and trace the square where it will fit. Cut this square out of the main box. Slide one set of flaps from the new box through the square and tape them to the inside of the main box to hold it in place.
Proceed with adding windows, details, and drawing stones on each new section which is added to the castle.
Tips
Recycle everything––this project should be easy to make from stuff around the house or things not wanted in the office.
You don't need new cardboard boxes, you can use recycled bits.
You don't need to use a hot glue gun––just use really good glue or strong tape.
Warnings
If you have any raw pieces of cardboard (i.e., not covered in foil), it's not recommended to paint them as they risk turning soggy––only use markers on such pieces.
Young children must be supervised when using sharp items such as scissors.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Crafting a Model Castle\\n1-1. Find suitable cardboard boxes.\\nA sturdy, nicely shaped box would be best. A good example is a box used for printer paper. Cereal boxes, tissue boxes, or shoe boxes would work as well. Also collect four cardboard rolls, these can either be toilet paper or paper towel rolls depending on the size of your castle.\\nThe cardboard rolls will make the turrets on your castle, so make sure that the other boxes you choose are shorter.\\nIf you can't find any cardboard rolls, make your own using poster paper. You can make them whatever height you want.\\n1-2. Plan your castle design.\\nLook at photos or illustrations of real castles for inspiration and create a design on paper. In the case of this article, it's going to be kept simple with just four walls with a traditional rampart design, and four rolls to act as turrets. Then a moat will be added surrounding the castle. If you do design the castle with more complexity, consider:\\nCreating turrets which are cut out separately and can stand alone.\\nMaking one central tall tower for the prince or princess to be stuck in, with a window for the unfortunate royal to stare through.\\n1-3. Set the cardboard pieces in place to get an idea of the shape of the castle.\\nWith the box on your working surface, set the four long rolls to each corner of the photocopy paper box (don't physically attach them yet––this gets done later.) Assess the size of the turrets to the main castle box. Adjust the turret size if needed.\\nIf you would like the turrets to be taller, you can switch to a longer roll, like a paper towel or wrapping paper roll.\\nTo make the turrets shorter, simply cut the current rolls down to size. Be sure that you measure and cut all four rolls to the same height.\\n1-4. Cut the ramparts design into the top of the box.\\nRamparts are the surrounding walls of the castle and commonly have alternating squares and open square spaces. Use a ruler to measure and trace evenly spaced squares on the top of your box. Using scissors, cut out every other square to create the rampart walls of the castle.\\nAnother option is cutting a square template from a piece of cardboard and tracing that square all the way around the box.\\nAttempt to measure the square to a size which will fit all the way around the box in even spacing.\\n1-5. Draw a stone design on a large sheet of tin foil.\\nMeasure out enough tin foil to cover a wall of the castle. Lay this sheet of foil on your working surface and draw an alternating stone pattern using a permanent black marker.\\nTo do this, start at the bottom and draw rectangles of approximately the same size, one connected to the other, all the way across the bottom of the tin foil.\\nTo create the next row of stones above this one, start at the center point of the first rectangle on the bottom row and draw a rectangle which covers the left half of the top of the first brick and the right half of the top of the second brick.\\nContinue following this pattern until you have reached the top.\\nIf you prefer a more muted look to your castle, you can opt to use gray or tan Bristol Board or craft paper.\\n1-6. Cover the entire castle in the decorated foil.\\nThis will get rid of the cardboard look and it will create the smooth, shiny surface. Apply a decent coverage of craft glue to the cardboard and press the foil in place on each wall and wrapped around the turrets. The walls should be covered on both the front and back.\\nWrap the excess foil around the tops of the walls to cover any exposed cardboard.\\nGather the foil together at the top of the turrets to cover the hole in the top of the roll.\\n1-7. Attach the turrets to the corners of your castle wall.\\nMeasure the height of the corner of your castle wall. Draw a line in pencil up the side of the turret which matches the length of the corner of the castle wall. Start at the bottom and continue drawing up toward the top of the turret. Using scissors, cut slits in the turrets along this line. Place glue along the cut edges. Wedge each turret onto a corner of the box. Press and hold the glued edges to the corner of the castle wall until it feels secure.\\nAlternatively, you can hot glue the turrets to the corners of the castle.\\n1-8. Create a moat around the castle.\\nCut a piece of blue Bristol Board or craft into a square shape with rounded edges, that is larger than the castle and gives the appearance of a lake or moat surrounding the castle. The reflection on the foil makes for a nice water effect.\\n1-9. Build the castle bridge.\\nCut a small piece of black craft paper into a rectangle with a rounded top for the appearance of space going into the castle. Then trace around that black doorway onto a piece of brown paper or cardboard and cut that brown shape out to form the bridge. Glue the black piece to the front wall of the castle to create the door space. Place the brown piece flat down in front of the door space and glue it to the moat.\\nMeasure to be sure the bridge will be long enough to cross the moat.\\nTo create a drawbridge effect, glue a piece of string to each side of the top of the black doorway. Glue the other end of the strings to top of the bridge on each side. This will create the effect of the chains used to draw up the bridge.\\n1-10. Add anything else that you think completes the castle's overall appearance.\\nIn this case, the turrets have been finished with roofs and flags and some banners have been hung from the ramparts.\\nTo make turret roofs, simply make cones from paper in the correct width and glue into place over the top of each turret tube.\\nCut medieval flag and banner shapes from craft paper and glue them to toothpicks to create flags which you can glue into the tops of your turret roofs. You can also glue banners on the front, top end of your rampart wall over the doorway.\\n2. Building a Play Castle\\n2-1. Start with a large cardboard box.\\nSome of your best options would be a wardrobe box or a refrigerator box. You want something large enough that your child can crawl inside and play.\\nYou can purchase wardrobe boxes from a moving company.\\nTry getting free boxes from a local store which sells appliances.\\nFor multiple sections and levels to your castle, choose boxes of different shapes and sizes. Washer and dryer boxes would work well for this.\\n2-2. Reinforce the box with tape.\\nSet up the box with the top flaps reaching upward. Tape the corners of the flaps together on the inside of the box using packaging tape. This creates more height with an opening on top of the box.\\nIf you would like to add some fun color to your box, you can use a colored tape, like painters tape on the outside of the corners instead. Consider also using this tape to create the stone effect all around the outside.\\n2-3. Create a rampart wall effect along the top of the box.\\nMeasure the top of one side of the box from corner to corner. Divide that length by an even number such as 12 or 8. Using a ruler, and starting in the corner of one side of the top of the box, measure out and draw a square with sides the length of one section according to your calculations. Using a box-cutter, cut out this square. You will use this as a template.\\nIf your box is 24x24x24, and you divide by 12, your template would be a 2-inch square.\\nPlace the template next to the cut square hole in the top of the box. Line the edge of the square to one side of the cut.\\nTrace the other side of the template onto the top of the box, then move the template, lining an edge on this line. Finish tracing the rest of the square and cut it out of the top of the box.\\nRepeat this process all the way around the top of the box, creating an alternating square and cut section to make the rampart effect.\\n2-4. Create a window.\\nDraw a window on the top, left corner of your castle. This should be a thin rectangle with a rounded top. You want it to be just large enough for your child to be able to peek through. Cut the window out using a box cutting knife.\\nFor a Gothic castle make the windows peaked on top, like an ^.\\n2-5. Make a doorway.\\nOn the bottom, left of the box, draw a rectangle with a rounded top. This should be larger than your window and wide enough for your child to crawl through. Cut this door out with your box cutting knife. Only cut the two sides and the top, leaving the bottom section attached to the box.\\nBe careful when cutting out the doorway that you do not damage the piece which is being cut to make the space. This will become your drawbridge.\\n2-6. Attach a drawbridge.\\nUsing a drill or screwdriver, puncture two holes in the box, one on each side of the top of the doorway. Thread a piece of nylon rope through these holes from front to back, then tie a knot on the inside of the box. Puncture two more holes one each side of the top of the drawbridge section you have cut out. Push the other end of each rope through these holes and tie knots on the section that is touching the ground to secure the rope in place.\\nIt is helpful to reinforce these holes by taping around the cut edges with packaging tape. This will make the area more durable.\\nYour child can raise and lower the drawbridge by pulling on the knots in the rope from the inside the box.\\n2-7. Draw details around your window and doorway.\\nUsing a large marker or paint, draw a keystone at the top of the arch of the doorway. This is a quadrilateral slightly larger than a square, with the two sides expanding at a slight angle. The top side will, consequently, be slightly larger than the bottom. You can make this top side slightly rounded.\\nUsing the keystone as your starting point, draw similar quadrilaterals from the top of the arch, all the way to the bottom of the doorway. Repeat this on the other side.\\nUse this same technique to create detail around the window. Also draw squares along the bottom of the window. These should be roughly the same size as your quadrilaterals.\\n2-8. Draw your castle walls.\\nUsing paint or a thick, permanent marker, draw a stone design onto your box. Start by drawing a horizontal rectangle along the bottom of your box and connecting equally-sized rectangles all the way around the bottom.\\nTo draw the second layer, Start at the center point of one of the rectangles and draw a line upward from there to create the side of the rectangle to begin your second layer of stones. The other side should rise up from the center of the next stone on the bottom layer. Connect these sides with a line on the top.\\nRepeat this system until you have covered the walls of your castle in stones.\\nThis step is great for getting your child involved. You can also draw the lines in pencil and have your child trace them with a marker or paint.\\n2-9. Expand your castle.\\nIf you would like to make a larger castle, attach another box to this main one. Using a smaller box than the original, line it up to the side of the main box and trace the square where it will fit. Cut this square out of the main box. Slide one set of flaps from the new box through the square and tape them to the inside of the main box to hold it in place.\\nProceed with adding windows, details, and drawing stones on each new section which is added to the castle.\\nTips\\nRecycle everything––this project should be easy to make from stuff around the house or things not wanted in the office.\\nYou don't need new cardboard boxes, you can use recycled bits.\\nYou don't need to use a hot glue gun––just use really good glue or strong tape.\\nWarnings\\nIf you have any raw pieces of cardboard (i.e., not covered in foil), it's not recommended to paint them as they risk turning soggy––only use markers on such pieces.\\nYoung children must be supervised when using sharp items such as scissors.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Cardboard castles are a fun project for any castle enthusiast. Recycle your used boxes to create a medieval fortress for a class project or a child's fort. You will have a chance to be creative, while also being Earth-friendly.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Crafting a Model Castle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find suitable cardboard boxes.\", \"描述\": \"A sturdy, nicely shaped box would be best. A good example is a box used for printer paper. Cereal boxes, tissue boxes, or shoe boxes would work as well. Also collect four cardboard rolls, these can either be toilet paper or paper towel rolls depending on the size of your castle.\\nThe cardboard rolls will make the turrets on your castle, so make sure that the other boxes you choose are shorter.\\nIf you can't find any cardboard rolls, make your own using poster paper. You can make them whatever height you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan your castle design.\", \"描述\": \"Look at photos or illustrations of real castles for inspiration and create a design on paper. In the case of this article, it's going to be kept simple with just four walls with a traditional rampart design, and four rolls to act as turrets. Then a moat will be added surrounding the castle. If you do design the castle with more complexity, consider:\\nCreating turrets which are cut out separately and can stand alone.\\nMaking one central tall tower for the prince or princess to be stuck in, with a window for the unfortunate royal to stare through.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set the cardboard pieces in place to get an idea of the shape of the castle.\", \"描述\": \"With the box on your working surface, set the four long rolls to each corner of the photocopy paper box (don't physically attach them yet––this gets done later.) Assess the size of the turrets to the main castle box. Adjust the turret size if needed.\\nIf you would like the turrets to be taller, you can switch to a longer roll, like a paper towel or wrapping paper roll.\\nTo make the turrets shorter, simply cut the current rolls down to size. Be sure that you measure and cut all four rolls to the same height.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the ramparts design into the top of the box.\", \"描述\": \"Ramparts are the surrounding walls of the castle and commonly have alternating squares and open square spaces. Use a ruler to measure and trace evenly spaced squares on the top of your box. Using scissors, cut out every other square to create the rampart walls of the castle.\\nAnother option is cutting a square template from a piece of cardboard and tracing that square all the way around the box.\\nAttempt to measure the square to a size which will fit all the way around the box in even spacing.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Draw a stone design on a large sheet of tin foil.\", \"描述\": \"Measure out enough tin foil to cover a wall of the castle. Lay this sheet of foil on your working surface and draw an alternating stone pattern using a permanent black marker.\\nTo do this, start at the bottom and draw rectangles of approximately the same size, one connected to the other, all the way across the bottom of the tin foil.\\nTo create the next row of stones above this one, start at the center point of the first rectangle on the bottom row and draw a rectangle which covers the left half of the top of the first brick and the right half of the top of the second brick.\\nContinue following this pattern until you have reached the top.\\nIf you prefer a more muted look to your castle, you can opt to use gray or tan Bristol Board or craft paper.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cover the entire castle in the decorated foil.\", \"描述\": \"This will get rid of the cardboard look and it will create the smooth, shiny surface. Apply a decent coverage of craft glue to the cardboard and press the foil in place on each wall and wrapped around the turrets. The walls should be covered on both the front and back.\\nWrap the excess foil around the tops of the walls to cover any exposed cardboard.\\nGather the foil together at the top of the turrets to cover the hole in the top of the roll.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the turrets to the corners of your castle wall.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the height of the corner of your castle wall. Draw a line in pencil up the side of the turret which matches the length of the corner of the castle wall. Start at the bottom and continue drawing up toward the top of the turret. Using scissors, cut slits in the turrets along this line. Place glue along the cut edges. Wedge each turret onto a corner of the box. Press and hold the glued edges to the corner of the castle wall until it feels secure.\\nAlternatively, you can hot glue the turrets to the corners of the castle.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Create a moat around the castle.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a piece of blue Bristol Board or craft into a square shape with rounded edges, that is larger than the castle and gives the appearance of a lake or moat surrounding the castle. The reflection on the foil makes for a nice water effect.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Build the castle bridge.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a small piece of black craft paper into a rectangle with a rounded top for the appearance of space going into the castle. Then trace around that black doorway onto a piece of brown paper or cardboard and cut that brown shape out to form the bridge. Glue the black piece to the front wall of the castle to create the door space. Place the brown piece flat down in front of the door space and glue it to the moat.\\nMeasure to be sure the bridge will be long enough to cross the moat.\\nTo create a drawbridge effect, glue a piece of string to each side of the top of the black doorway. Glue the other end of the strings to top of the bridge on each side. This will create the effect of the chains used to draw up the bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add anything else that you think completes the castle's overall appearance.\", \"描述\": \"In this case, the turrets have been finished with roofs and flags and some banners have been hung from the ramparts.\\nTo make turret roofs, simply make cones from paper in the correct width and glue into place over the top of each turret tube.\\nCut medieval flag and banner shapes from craft paper and glue them to toothpicks to create flags which you can glue into the tops of your turret roofs. You can also glue banners on the front, top end of your rampart wall over the doorway.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Play Castle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start with a large cardboard box.\", \"描述\": \"Some of your best options would be a wardrobe box or a refrigerator box. You want something large enough that your child can crawl inside and play.\\nYou can purchase wardrobe boxes from a moving company.\\nTry getting free boxes from a local store which sells appliances.\\nFor multiple sections and levels to your castle, choose boxes of different shapes and sizes. Washer and dryer boxes would work well for this.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Reinforce the box with tape.\", \"描述\": \"Set up the box with the top flaps reaching upward. Tape the corners of the flaps together on the inside of the box using packaging tape. This creates more height with an opening on top of the box.\\nIf you would like to add some fun color to your box, you can use a colored tape, like painters tape on the outside of the corners instead. Consider also using this tape to create the stone effect all around the outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a rampart wall effect along the top of the box.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the top of one side of the box from corner to corner. Divide that length by an even number such as 12 or 8. Using a ruler, and starting in the corner of one side of the top of the box, measure out and draw a square with sides the length of one section according to your calculations. Using a box-cutter, cut out this square. You will use this as a template.\\nIf your box is 24x24x24, and you divide by 12, your template would be a 2-inch square.\\nPlace the template next to the cut square hole in the top of the box. Line the edge of the square to one side of the cut.\\nTrace the other side of the template onto the top of the box, then move the template, lining an edge on this line. Finish tracing the rest of the square and cut it out of the top of the box.\\nRepeat this process all the way around the top of the box, creating an alternating square and cut section to make the rampart effect.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a window.\", \"描述\": \"Draw a window on the top, left corner of your castle. This should be a thin rectangle with a rounded top. You want it to be just large enough for your child to be able to peek through. Cut the window out using a box cutting knife.\\nFor a Gothic castle make the windows peaked on top, like an ^.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make a doorway.\", \"描述\": \"On the bottom, left of the box, draw a rectangle with a rounded top. This should be larger than your window and wide enough for your child to crawl through. Cut this door out with your box cutting knife. Only cut the two sides and the top, leaving the bottom section attached to the box.\\nBe careful when cutting out the doorway that you do not damage the piece which is being cut to make the space. This will become your drawbridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach a drawbridge.\", \"描述\": \"Using a drill or screwdriver, puncture two holes in the box, one on each side of the top of the doorway. Thread a piece of nylon rope through these holes from front to back, then tie a knot on the inside of the box. Puncture two more holes one each side of the top of the drawbridge section you have cut out. Push the other end of each rope through these holes and tie knots on the section that is touching the ground to secure the rope in place.\\nIt is helpful to reinforce these holes by taping around the cut edges with packaging tape. This will make the area more durable.\\nYour child can raise and lower the drawbridge by pulling on the knots in the rope from the inside the box.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Draw details around your window and doorway.\", \"描述\": \"Using a large marker or paint, draw a keystone at the top of the arch of the doorway. This is a quadrilateral slightly larger than a square, with the two sides expanding at a slight angle. The top side will, consequently, be slightly larger than the bottom. You can make this top side slightly rounded.\\nUsing the keystone as your starting point, draw similar quadrilaterals from the top of the arch, all the way to the bottom of the doorway. Repeat this on the other side.\\nUse this same technique to create detail around the window. Also draw squares along the bottom of the window. These should be roughly the same size as your quadrilaterals.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Draw your castle walls.\", \"描述\": \"Using paint or a thick, permanent marker, draw a stone design onto your box. Start by drawing a horizontal rectangle along the bottom of your box and connecting equally-sized rectangles all the way around the bottom.\\nTo draw the second layer, Start at the center point of one of the rectangles and draw a line upward from there to create the side of the rectangle to begin your second layer of stones. The other side should rise up from the center of the next stone on the bottom layer. Connect these sides with a line on the top.\\nRepeat this system until you have covered the walls of your castle in stones.\\nThis step is great for getting your child involved. You can also draw the lines in pencil and have your child trace them with a marker or paint.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Expand your castle.\", \"描述\": \"If you would like to make a larger castle, attach another box to this main one. Using a smaller box than the original, line it up to the side of the main box and trace the square where it will fit. Cut this square out of the main box. Slide one set of flaps from the new box through the square and tape them to the inside of the main box to hold it in place.\\nProceed with adding windows, details, and drawing stones on each new section which is added to the castle.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Recycle everything––this project should be easy to make from stuff around the house or things not wanted in the office.\\n\", \"You don't need new cardboard boxes, you can use recycled bits.\\n\", \"You don't need to use a hot glue gun––just use really good glue or strong tape.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you have any raw pieces of cardboard (i.e., not covered in foil), it's not recommended to paint them as they risk turning soggy––only use markers on such pieces.\\n\", \"Young children must be supervised when using sharp items such as scissors.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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How to Build a Cat Condo
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1. Making a Simple Cat Condo
1-1. Find a cardboard box large enough to fit your cat.
If there is a large cardboard box that your cat already likes to sleep in, consider using that.
1-2. Lay the box down on its side.
If the box has a top part that folds down, cut it off using a box cutter. You can also fold the flaps inward and secure them with glue.
1-3. Consider painting the box or covering it with fabric.
You can paint the box using spray paint or acrylic paint. You can also cover it with glue and fabric.
Apply acrylic paint using a wide paint brush or a foam brush. To reduce brushstrokes, apply the paint in thin layers. Let each layer dry before applying another one.
If you are spray painting the box, go outside or work in a well-ventilated area. Be sure to cover your work surface with lots of newspaper.
To cover your box with fabric: Cut five pieces of fabric. Each one needs to be large enough to cover each side of the box. Cover the box with glue, and press the fabric down onto it. Work on one side at a time.
1-4. Place a towel or a fleece blanket inside the box.
You can cut it down to fit inside the box, or just fold it. This will make the box more comfortable for your cat.
1-5. Consider draping a curtain over the front opening of the box.
Cats love dark, private places. Cut a piece of fabric that is the same with as your box, and about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) taller. Draw a ½ inch wide line of fabric glue along the top edge, closest to the opening. Press the edge of the curtain down into the glue.
Consider gluing a ½ to 1 inch wide ribbon all the way around the edge of the box opening. This will not only hide the top edge of the curtain, but also give the box some contrast.
1-6. Place the cat condo in a place your cat will notice.
To encourage your cat to use the box, scatter some cat treats or catnip inside the box.
2. Making a Cardboard Cat Condo
2-1. Find two cube shaped boxes large enough for your cat to fit inside.
Both boxes need to be the same size. A great place to pick up boxes is at an art store, an office supply store, or a post office. You can also ask your local shops for any shipping boxes. Most stores toss them out once they unpack their products.
2-2. Use a pencil to draw a doorway in the first box.
It must be large enough for your cat to craw through. Use your cat's whiskers as a guideline for the width. Cats will not go through anything they can't get their whiskers through. The doorway can be any shape you want, but make sure that it is as close to the bottom edge as possible. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Set circle and paw print shaped doors about 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) up from the bottom edge. Use a plate to trace the circle or paw pad. Use a small cup to trace the "fingers" of the paw.
Set arched, square, and triangular doors right against the bottom edge.
2-3. Cut the doorway out using a box cutter.
If your box came flat or unfolded, slide a self-heating cutting mat inside box before you start cutting. Be sure to erase any remaining pencil marks after you cut the doorway out.
2-4. Secure the top and bottom of the first box, if necessary.
If your box came flat or unfolded, put it together first. Glue the bottom flaps shut using tacky glue, wood glue, or white glue.
2-5. Consider adding a window to the second box.
Make it smaller than the doorway, and set it fight in the middle of the box side. You can make it any shape you want, but it might look better if it matches the doorway. Use a pencil to draw the shape, and a box cutter to cut it out. Carefully erase any pencil marks that are left over after you cut the window out.
If your second box came flat/unfolded, slip a self-healing cutting mat inside before cutting it.
2-6. Secure the bottom of the second box with glue.
Do not secure the top part just yet. Once again, if your second box came flat or unfolded, put it together first. Glue the flaps shut like you did with the first box. You are leaving the second box open so that you can add a crawl hole into the floor later.
2-7. Glue the second box on top of the first box and let the glue dry.
Use a wide paintbrush or a foam brush to apply the glue to the top of the first box, and the bottom of the second box. Press both boxes together. The window and doorway can be facing the same direction, or they can be facing in different directions.
2-8. Use a marker to trace a crawl hole in the floor of the second box.
Place a plate down in the corner of the box, about 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) away from both edges. Draw around the plate using a marker, and lift the plate away.
2-9. Cut hole out using a box cutter.
You may need to cut around the hole a few times in order to get through all of the cardboard layers. The hole needs to be large enough for your cat to crawl through. If the hole is too small, make it larger.
2-10. Secure top of the second box and let the glue dry.
Glue the top flaps shut using tacky glue, wood glue, or white glue.
2-11. Consider painting the cat condo.
You can paint both boxes the same color, or contrasting colors. If you want, you can even paint the inside rim of the windows and doorways a contrasting color. This will help them stand out more. You can use spray paint or acrylic paint.
If you are using spray paint, be sure to cover your work space with newspaper. Paint outside or in a well-ventilated area.
If you are using acrylic paint, apply the paint using a wide paintbrush or a foam brush. To get a smooth finish, apply several thin coats of paint rather than one thick coat.
2-12. Consider adding a fleece blanket or a towel inside the cat condo.
You can cut the blanket or towel down to fit inside your box, or you can fold it. You put it inside either floor of your cat condo, or even both floors. Do not glue the blanket or towel down; you want to be able to take it out so that you can wash it from time to time.
If you are putting a blanket or towel on the second floor, make sure that you are not covering up the crawl hole.
2-13. Set the cat condo down in a place where your cat will notice it.
To entice your cat to use it, scatter some cat treats or catnip in both boxes.
3. Making a Cat Condo Using Tables
3-1. Find two coffee tables.
One needs to be cube-shaped while the other needs to be rectangular. Both need to be about the same width. It is fine if the rectangular table is a few inches/centimeters wider, however. The rectangular coffee table will make the bottom of the condo, and the cube-shaped one will make the top.
The cube-shaped coffee table should not have a shelf between the legs. It is fine if the rectangular one has a shelf, however.
3-2. Consider painting the coffee tables.
If the color does not appeal to you, you can always paint the tables. The quickest way to do this would be with spray paint, but you can use acrylic paint and a wide paint brush as well. You can paint both tables the same color. You can also paint them using contrasting colors instead.
You will be gluing rope to some of the table legs in a later step. You might want to leave those legs unpainted.
If you will be gluing some carpet down to the top of the square table (or the shelf on the rectangular table), leave that part unpainted.
3-3. Place the square table on top of the rectangular table and secure it with wood glue or metal brackets.
Position the square table at one of the narrow ends of the rectangular table. The other half of the rectangular table should be bare. This will create a shelf for the cat to sit on. If you left some of the legs unpainted, those legs should be facing the longer/bare part of the rectangular table.
If you are using wood glue: paint the bottom of the square table's legs with a thick layer of wood glue. Place the table down on top of the rectangular table and let the glue dry.
If you are using metal brackets: Take four L-shaped metal brackets, and screw them to the inside of each of the square table's legs. Set the table down on top of the rectangular table. Screw the brackets to the top of the rectangular table.
3-4. Wrap sisal rope around two legs of the square table.
Make sure that the legs you are wrapping are facing the shelf/bare part of the rectangular table. Scuff the entire leg up with rough sandpaper, then paint the first few inches/centimeters of the leg with wood glue. Wrap the rope around the leg until you cover the glue. Paint the leg with a few more inches/centimeters of glue, and wrap more rope around it. Keep painting glue and wrapping rope until you cover the entire leg. Repeat this step for the other leg.
Consider wrapping some of the legs on the rectangular table as well. You can wrap whatever legs you want. They don't have to be right next to each other, like with the square table.
These rope-wrapped legs will act as scratching posts for your cat, and save your furniture.
3-5. Consider covering top of the square table with carpet.
This will make it more comfortable for your cat. Measure the top of your square table and buy some carpet according to those measurements. Scuff the top with rough sandpaper, and paint the entire surface with wood glue. Paint the back of the carpet with wood glue, then press the carpet down onto the table top.
If your rectangular table has a shelf, consider cover that with carpet as well.
You can use any color of carpet you like. It can match the table color, or contrast it. For example, if your table is white, consider blue or teal for the carpet.
3-6. Set the cat condo down where your cat will see it.
Give your cat some time to get used to the condo. You can also encourage your cat to use it by leaving some cat treats or catnip on it.
4. Making a Wooden Cat Condo
4-1. Get four cube-shaped boxes, each one 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) smaller than the last one.
The largest box needs to have a top and bottom, but the smaller boxes only need a top. They don't need a bottom as they will be stacked on top of each other. The smallest box needs to be large enough for your cat to curl up inside.
For a standard-sized cat, start with18 inches (45.72 centimeters) as your largest box. The other three boxes are as follows: 16 inches (40.64 centimeters), 14 inches (35.56 centimeters), and 12 inches (30.48 centimeters). If you have a large cat, such as a Maine Coon, you will need bigger boxes.
The boxes can be made out of wood or cardboard. Wooden boxes, however, will be more durable.
You can buy the boxes, or build them yourself using cheap wood or particle board. Use nails or wood glue to put the boxes together.
4-2. Cut doorways and windows into the sides of the boxes using a saw.
Each box needs to have at least one doorway. Use the width of your cat's whiskers as a guideline for cutting the doors. Cats will not crawl through anything that is narrower than their whiskers.
You can make the windows and doors any shape you want, but circles and paw prints are the most popular.
If you are adding windows, make them smaller than the doorways.
4-3. Cut a crawl hole into the top corner of the three largest boxes.
Use a small plate to trace the hole, and a saw to cut it out. Make sure that the hole fits inside the smaller box on top of it. Also, make sure that the craw holes are not in the same spot; you want them to be staggered.
Keep in mind that you will be stacking these boxes. You don't want the holes to be peeking out from under the upper box.
4-4. Paint outside and inside of the boxes.
You can paint them using acrylic paint or spray paint. If you are using spray paint, wood outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. If you are using acrylic paint, apply the paint using a paintbrush or a foam brush. Apply the acrylic paint using many, thin layers rather than one thick layer. This will prevent any brush strokes.
You can paint the boxes all the same color, or contrasting colors.
You can paint the inside of the boxes the same color as the outside. You can also paint the inside a different color.
Consider painting the inside rims of the doors and windows using a contrasting color. This will help them stand out more.
4-5. Stack the boxes and secure them with wood glue.
Place the largest box down on the floor. Cover the bottom edges of the second largest box with wood glue. Place the box down on top of the largest box, making sure that one of the corners and two of the sides are aligned. You will end up with a thick ledge around the smaller box. Repeat this process of the other boxes. Make sure that all of the boxes are aligned on the same corner.
Make sure that the doorways are facing the ledges.
4-6. Consider glue carpet down onto the boxes.
This can make your cat condo cozier and more comfy for your cat. You can glue carpet down to just the inside floor of each box, or just the ledges. You can also glue carpet down to both the inside floor and the ledges. #* Consider gluing carpet down to the top of the smallest box. Your cat will likely perch on top of this box at some point. You might as well make it a comfortable perch.
4-7. Place the cat condo in a place your cat will frequent.
To encourage your cat to use the condo, scatter some catnip or cat treats inside it.
Tips
Encourage your cat to use the condo with toys. Consider leaving your cat's favorite toy inside the condo. If your cat likes to chase string or cat teasers, consider guiding your cat into/onto the cat condo with it.[4]
X
Research source
Reward your cat when she uses the condo with affection and attention. It may take some time before your cat uses her condo. When she does, give her lots of attention. If she likes getting scratched under the chin or behind the ear, do that. If she likes a certain cat treat, give her a few.[5]
X
Research source
Place the cat condo in a place your cat frequents. Your cat will be more likely to notice the cat condo. It may also help your cat that it is for her.
Warnings
Make sure no cats are nearby while you make this. Cats are curious creatures. The last thing you'd want is to get paint on your cat.
Be careful of the types of toys you leave inside the condo. Don't leave anything that will come apart easily or that your cat can choke on.
Do not force your cat to use it. If you do, your cat will start to associate bad things with it and avoid it.
Some cats just don't like cat condos. If your cat does not use the cat condo, try scattering some cat treats or catnip inside.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Simple Cat Condo\\n1-1. Find a cardboard box large enough to fit your cat.\\nIf there is a large cardboard box that your cat already likes to sleep in, consider using that.\\n1-2. Lay the box down on its side.\\nIf the box has a top part that folds down, cut it off using a box cutter. You can also fold the flaps inward and secure them with glue.\\n1-3. Consider painting the box or covering it with fabric.\\nYou can paint the box using spray paint or acrylic paint. You can also cover it with glue and fabric.\\nApply acrylic paint using a wide paint brush or a foam brush. To reduce brushstrokes, apply the paint in thin layers. Let each layer dry before applying another one.\\nIf you are spray painting the box, go outside or work in a well-ventilated area. Be sure to cover your work surface with lots of newspaper.\\nTo cover your box with fabric: Cut five pieces of fabric. Each one needs to be large enough to cover each side of the box. Cover the box with glue, and press the fabric down onto it. Work on one side at a time.\\n1-4. Place a towel or a fleece blanket inside the box.\\nYou can cut it down to fit inside the box, or just fold it. This will make the box more comfortable for your cat.\\n1-5. Consider draping a curtain over the front opening of the box.\\nCats love dark, private places. Cut a piece of fabric that is the same with as your box, and about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) taller. Draw a ½ inch wide line of fabric glue along the top edge, closest to the opening. Press the edge of the curtain down into the glue.\\nConsider gluing a ½ to 1 inch wide ribbon all the way around the edge of the box opening. This will not only hide the top edge of the curtain, but also give the box some contrast.\\n1-6. Place the cat condo in a place your cat will notice.\\nTo encourage your cat to use the box, scatter some cat treats or catnip inside the box.\\n2. Making a Cardboard Cat Condo\\n2-1. Find two cube shaped boxes large enough for your cat to fit inside.\\nBoth boxes need to be the same size. A great place to pick up boxes is at an art store, an office supply store, or a post office. You can also ask your local shops for any shipping boxes. Most stores toss them out once they unpack their products.\\n2-2. Use a pencil to draw a doorway in the first box.\\nIt must be large enough for your cat to craw through. Use your cat's whiskers as a guideline for the width. Cats will not go through anything they can't get their whiskers through. The doorway can be any shape you want, but make sure that it is as close to the bottom edge as possible. Here are some ideas to get you started:\\nSet circle and paw print shaped doors about 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) up from the bottom edge. Use a plate to trace the circle or paw pad. Use a small cup to trace the \\\"fingers\\\" of the paw.\\nSet arched, square, and triangular doors right against the bottom edge.\\n2-3. Cut the doorway out using a box cutter.\\nIf your box came flat or unfolded, slide a self-heating cutting mat inside box before you start cutting. Be sure to erase any remaining pencil marks after you cut the doorway out.\\n2-4. Secure the top and bottom of the first box, if necessary.\\nIf your box came flat or unfolded, put it together first. Glue the bottom flaps shut using tacky glue, wood glue, or white glue.\\n2-5. Consider adding a window to the second box.\\nMake it smaller than the doorway, and set it fight in the middle of the box side. You can make it any shape you want, but it might look better if it matches the doorway. Use a pencil to draw the shape, and a box cutter to cut it out. Carefully erase any pencil marks that are left over after you cut the window out.\\nIf your second box came flat/unfolded, slip a self-healing cutting mat inside before cutting it.\\n2-6. Secure the bottom of the second box with glue.\\nDo not secure the top part just yet. Once again, if your second box came flat or unfolded, put it together first. Glue the flaps shut like you did with the first box. You are leaving the second box open so that you can add a crawl hole into the floor later.\\n2-7. Glue the second box on top of the first box and let the glue dry.\\nUse a wide paintbrush or a foam brush to apply the glue to the top of the first box, and the bottom of the second box. Press both boxes together. The window and doorway can be facing the same direction, or they can be facing in different directions.\\n2-8. Use a marker to trace a crawl hole in the floor of the second box.\\nPlace a plate down in the corner of the box, about 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) away from both edges. Draw around the plate using a marker, and lift the plate away.\\n2-9. Cut hole out using a box cutter.\\nYou may need to cut around the hole a few times in order to get through all of the cardboard layers. The hole needs to be large enough for your cat to crawl through. If the hole is too small, make it larger.\\n2-10. Secure top of the second box and let the glue dry.\\nGlue the top flaps shut using tacky glue, wood glue, or white glue.\\n2-11. Consider painting the cat condo.\\nYou can paint both boxes the same color, or contrasting colors. If you want, you can even paint the inside rim of the windows and doorways a contrasting color. This will help them stand out more. You can use spray paint or acrylic paint.\\nIf you are using spray paint, be sure to cover your work space with newspaper. Paint outside or in a well-ventilated area.\\nIf you are using acrylic paint, apply the paint using a wide paintbrush or a foam brush. To get a smooth finish, apply several thin coats of paint rather than one thick coat.\\n2-12. Consider adding a fleece blanket or a towel inside the cat condo.\\nYou can cut the blanket or towel down to fit inside your box, or you can fold it. You put it inside either floor of your cat condo, or even both floors. Do not glue the blanket or towel down; you want to be able to take it out so that you can wash it from time to time.\\nIf you are putting a blanket or towel on the second floor, make sure that you are not covering up the crawl hole.\\n2-13. Set the cat condo down in a place where your cat will notice it.\\nTo entice your cat to use it, scatter some cat treats or catnip in both boxes.\\n3. Making a Cat Condo Using Tables\\n3-1. Find two coffee tables.\\nOne needs to be cube-shaped while the other needs to be rectangular. Both need to be about the same width. It is fine if the rectangular table is a few inches/centimeters wider, however. The rectangular coffee table will make the bottom of the condo, and the cube-shaped one will make the top.\\nThe cube-shaped coffee table should not have a shelf between the legs. It is fine if the rectangular one has a shelf, however.\\n3-2. Consider painting the coffee tables.\\nIf the color does not appeal to you, you can always paint the tables. The quickest way to do this would be with spray paint, but you can use acrylic paint and a wide paint brush as well. You can paint both tables the same color. You can also paint them using contrasting colors instead.\\nYou will be gluing rope to some of the table legs in a later step. You might want to leave those legs unpainted.\\nIf you will be gluing some carpet down to the top of the square table (or the shelf on the rectangular table), leave that part unpainted.\\n3-3. Place the square table on top of the rectangular table and secure it with wood glue or metal brackets.\\nPosition the square table at one of the narrow ends of the rectangular table. The other half of the rectangular table should be bare. This will create a shelf for the cat to sit on. If you left some of the legs unpainted, those legs should be facing the longer/bare part of the rectangular table.\\nIf you are using wood glue: paint the bottom of the square table's legs with a thick layer of wood glue. Place the table down on top of the rectangular table and let the glue dry.\\nIf you are using metal brackets: Take four L-shaped metal brackets, and screw them to the inside of each of the square table's legs. Set the table down on top of the rectangular table. Screw the brackets to the top of the rectangular table.\\n3-4. Wrap sisal rope around two legs of the square table.\\nMake sure that the legs you are wrapping are facing the shelf/bare part of the rectangular table. Scuff the entire leg up with rough sandpaper, then paint the first few inches/centimeters of the leg with wood glue. Wrap the rope around the leg until you cover the glue. Paint the leg with a few more inches/centimeters of glue, and wrap more rope around it. Keep painting glue and wrapping rope until you cover the entire leg. Repeat this step for the other leg.\\nConsider wrapping some of the legs on the rectangular table as well. You can wrap whatever legs you want. They don't have to be right next to each other, like with the square table.\\nThese rope-wrapped legs will act as scratching posts for your cat, and save your furniture.\\n3-5. Consider covering top of the square table with carpet.\\nThis will make it more comfortable for your cat. Measure the top of your square table and buy some carpet according to those measurements. Scuff the top with rough sandpaper, and paint the entire surface with wood glue. Paint the back of the carpet with wood glue, then press the carpet down onto the table top.\\nIf your rectangular table has a shelf, consider cover that with carpet as well.\\nYou can use any color of carpet you like. It can match the table color, or contrast it. For example, if your table is white, consider blue or teal for the carpet.\\n3-6. Set the cat condo down where your cat will see it.\\nGive your cat some time to get used to the condo. You can also encourage your cat to use it by leaving some cat treats or catnip on it.\\n4. Making a Wooden Cat Condo\\n4-1. Get four cube-shaped boxes, each one 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) smaller than the last one.\\nThe largest box needs to have a top and bottom, but the smaller boxes only need a top. They don't need a bottom as they will be stacked on top of each other. The smallest box needs to be large enough for your cat to curl up inside.\\nFor a standard-sized cat, start with18 inches (45.72 centimeters) as your largest box. The other three boxes are as follows: 16 inches (40.64 centimeters), 14 inches (35.56 centimeters), and 12 inches (30.48 centimeters). If you have a large cat, such as a Maine Coon, you will need bigger boxes.\\nThe boxes can be made out of wood or cardboard. Wooden boxes, however, will be more durable.\\nYou can buy the boxes, or build them yourself using cheap wood or particle board. Use nails or wood glue to put the boxes together.\\n4-2. Cut doorways and windows into the sides of the boxes using a saw.\\nEach box needs to have at least one doorway. Use the width of your cat's whiskers as a guideline for cutting the doors. Cats will not crawl through anything that is narrower than their whiskers.\\nYou can make the windows and doors any shape you want, but circles and paw prints are the most popular.\\nIf you are adding windows, make them smaller than the doorways.\\n4-3. Cut a crawl hole into the top corner of the three largest boxes.\\nUse a small plate to trace the hole, and a saw to cut it out. Make sure that the hole fits inside the smaller box on top of it. Also, make sure that the craw holes are not in the same spot; you want them to be staggered.\\nKeep in mind that you will be stacking these boxes. You don't want the holes to be peeking out from under the upper box.\\n4-4. Paint outside and inside of the boxes.\\nYou can paint them using acrylic paint or spray paint. If you are using spray paint, wood outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. If you are using acrylic paint, apply the paint using a paintbrush or a foam brush. Apply the acrylic paint using many, thin layers rather than one thick layer. This will prevent any brush strokes.\\nYou can paint the boxes all the same color, or contrasting colors.\\nYou can paint the inside of the boxes the same color as the outside. You can also paint the inside a different color.\\nConsider painting the inside rims of the doors and windows using a contrasting color. This will help them stand out more.\\n4-5. Stack the boxes and secure them with wood glue.\\nPlace the largest box down on the floor. Cover the bottom edges of the second largest box with wood glue. Place the box down on top of the largest box, making sure that one of the corners and two of the sides are aligned. You will end up with a thick ledge around the smaller box. Repeat this process of the other boxes. Make sure that all of the boxes are aligned on the same corner.\\nMake sure that the doorways are facing the ledges.\\n4-6. Consider glue carpet down onto the boxes.\\nThis can make your cat condo cozier and more comfy for your cat. You can glue carpet down to just the inside floor of each box, or just the ledges. You can also glue carpet down to both the inside floor and the ledges. #* Consider gluing carpet down to the top of the smallest box. Your cat will likely perch on top of this box at some point. You might as well make it a comfortable perch.\\n4-7. Place the cat condo in a place your cat will frequent.\\nTo encourage your cat to use the condo, scatter some catnip or cat treats inside it.\\nTips\\nEncourage your cat to use the condo with toys. Consider leaving your cat's favorite toy inside the condo. If your cat likes to chase string or cat teasers, consider guiding your cat into/onto the cat condo with it.[4]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nReward your cat when she uses the condo with affection and attention. It may take some time before your cat uses her condo. When she does, give her lots of attention. If she likes getting scratched under the chin or behind the ear, do that. If she likes a certain cat treat, give her a few.[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nPlace the cat condo in a place your cat frequents. Your cat will be more likely to notice the cat condo. It may also help your cat that it is for her.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure no cats are nearby while you make this. Cats are curious creatures. The last thing you'd want is to get paint on your cat.\\nBe careful of the types of toys you leave inside the condo. Don't leave anything that will come apart easily or that your cat can choke on.\\nDo not force your cat to use it. If you do, your cat will start to associate bad things with it and avoid it.\\nSome cats just don't like cat condos. If your cat does not use the cat condo, try scattering some cat treats or catnip inside.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Cat condos are different from cat trees in that they contain more cubbies for the cat to hide in. They are great for houses with children or dogs because they will give the cat a place to hide in. This article will show you a few ways of creating a cat condo. It will also give you a few tips on how to encourage your cat to use the condo.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Simple Cat Condo\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a cardboard box large enough to fit your cat.\", \"描述\": \"If there is a large cardboard box that your cat already likes to sleep in, consider using that.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay the box down on its side.\", \"描述\": \"If the box has a top part that folds down, cut it off using a box cutter. You can also fold the flaps inward and secure them with glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider painting the box or covering it with fabric.\", \"描述\": \"You can paint the box using spray paint or acrylic paint. You can also cover it with glue and fabric.\\nApply acrylic paint using a wide paint brush or a foam brush. To reduce brushstrokes, apply the paint in thin layers. Let each layer dry before applying another one.\\nIf you are spray painting the box, go outside or work in a well-ventilated area. Be sure to cover your work surface with lots of newspaper.\\nTo cover your box with fabric: Cut five pieces of fabric. Each one needs to be large enough to cover each side of the box. Cover the box with glue, and press the fabric down onto it. Work on one side at a time.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place a towel or a fleece blanket inside the box.\", \"描述\": \"You can cut it down to fit inside the box, or just fold it. This will make the box more comfortable for your cat.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider draping a curtain over the front opening of the box.\", \"描述\": \"Cats love dark, private places. Cut a piece of fabric that is the same with as your box, and about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) taller. Draw a ½ inch wide line of fabric glue along the top edge, closest to the opening. Press the edge of the curtain down into the glue.\\nConsider gluing a ½ to 1 inch wide ribbon all the way around the edge of the box opening. This will not only hide the top edge of the curtain, but also give the box some contrast.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the cat condo in a place your cat will notice.\", \"描述\": \"To encourage your cat to use the box, scatter some cat treats or catnip inside the box.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Cardboard Cat Condo\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find two cube shaped boxes large enough for your cat to fit inside.\", \"描述\": \"Both boxes need to be the same size. A great place to pick up boxes is at an art store, an office supply store, or a post office. You can also ask your local shops for any shipping boxes. Most stores toss them out once they unpack their products.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a pencil to draw a doorway in the first box.\", \"描述\": \"It must be large enough for your cat to craw through. Use your cat's whiskers as a guideline for the width. Cats will not go through anything they can't get their whiskers through. The doorway can be any shape you want, but make sure that it is as close to the bottom edge as possible. Here are some ideas to get you started:\\nSet circle and paw print shaped doors about 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) up from the bottom edge. Use a plate to trace the circle or paw pad. Use a small cup to trace the \\\"fingers\\\" of the paw.\\nSet arched, square, and triangular doors right against the bottom edge.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the doorway out using a box cutter.\", \"描述\": \"If your box came flat or unfolded, slide a self-heating cutting mat inside box before you start cutting. Be sure to erase any remaining pencil marks after you cut the doorway out.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Secure the top and bottom of the first box, if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"If your box came flat or unfolded, put it together first. Glue the bottom flaps shut using tacky glue, wood glue, or white glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider adding a window to the second box.\", \"描述\": \"Make it smaller than the doorway, and set it fight in the middle of the box side. You can make it any shape you want, but it might look better if it matches the doorway. Use a pencil to draw the shape, and a box cutter to cut it out. Carefully erase any pencil marks that are left over after you cut the window out.\\nIf your second box came flat/unfolded, slip a self-healing cutting mat inside before cutting it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Secure the bottom of the second box with glue.\", \"描述\": \"Do not secure the top part just yet. Once again, if your second box came flat or unfolded, put it together first. Glue the flaps shut like you did with the first box. You are leaving the second box open so that you can add a crawl hole into the floor later.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Glue the second box on top of the first box and let the glue dry.\", \"描述\": \"Use a wide paintbrush or a foam brush to apply the glue to the top of the first box, and the bottom of the second box. Press both boxes together. The window and doorway can be facing the same direction, or they can be facing in different directions.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Use a marker to trace a crawl hole in the floor of the second box.\", \"描述\": \"Place a plate down in the corner of the box, about 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) away from both edges. Draw around the plate using a marker, and lift the plate away.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Cut hole out using a box cutter.\", \"描述\": \"You may need to cut around the hole a few times in order to get through all of the cardboard layers. The hole needs to be large enough for your cat to crawl through. If the hole is too small, make it larger.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Secure top of the second box and let the glue dry.\", \"描述\": \"Glue the top flaps shut using tacky glue, wood glue, or white glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Consider painting the cat condo.\", \"描述\": \"You can paint both boxes the same color, or contrasting colors. If you want, you can even paint the inside rim of the windows and doorways a contrasting color. This will help them stand out more. You can use spray paint or acrylic paint.\\nIf you are using spray paint, be sure to cover your work space with newspaper. Paint outside or in a well-ventilated area.\\nIf you are using acrylic paint, apply the paint using a wide paintbrush or a foam brush. To get a smooth finish, apply several thin coats of paint rather than one thick coat.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Consider adding a fleece blanket or a towel inside the cat condo.\", \"描述\": \"You can cut the blanket or towel down to fit inside your box, or you can fold it. You put it inside either floor of your cat condo, or even both floors. Do not glue the blanket or towel down; you want to be able to take it out so that you can wash it from time to time.\\nIf you are putting a blanket or towel on the second floor, make sure that you are not covering up the crawl hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Set the cat condo down in a place where your cat will notice it.\", \"描述\": \"To entice your cat to use it, scatter some cat treats or catnip in both boxes.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making a Cat Condo Using Tables\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find two coffee tables.\", \"描述\": \"One needs to be cube-shaped while the other needs to be rectangular. Both need to be about the same width. It is fine if the rectangular table is a few inches/centimeters wider, however. The rectangular coffee table will make the bottom of the condo, and the cube-shaped one will make the top.\\nThe cube-shaped coffee table should not have a shelf between the legs. It is fine if the rectangular one has a shelf, however.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider painting the coffee tables.\", \"描述\": \"If the color does not appeal to you, you can always paint the tables. The quickest way to do this would be with spray paint, but you can use acrylic paint and a wide paint brush as well. You can paint both tables the same color. You can also paint them using contrasting colors instead.\\nYou will be gluing rope to some of the table legs in a later step. You might want to leave those legs unpainted.\\nIf you will be gluing some carpet down to the top of the square table (or the shelf on the rectangular table), leave that part unpainted.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the square table on top of the rectangular table and secure it with wood glue or metal brackets.\", \"描述\": \"Position the square table at one of the narrow ends of the rectangular table. The other half of the rectangular table should be bare. This will create a shelf for the cat to sit on. If you left some of the legs unpainted, those legs should be facing the longer/bare part of the rectangular table.\\nIf you are using wood glue: paint the bottom of the square table's legs with a thick layer of wood glue. Place the table down on top of the rectangular table and let the glue dry.\\nIf you are using metal brackets: Take four L-shaped metal brackets, and screw them to the inside of each of the square table's legs. Set the table down on top of the rectangular table. Screw the brackets to the top of the rectangular table.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wrap sisal rope around two legs of the square table.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the legs you are wrapping are facing the shelf/bare part of the rectangular table. Scuff the entire leg up with rough sandpaper, then paint the first few inches/centimeters of the leg with wood glue. Wrap the rope around the leg until you cover the glue. Paint the leg with a few more inches/centimeters of glue, and wrap more rope around it. Keep painting glue and wrapping rope until you cover the entire leg. Repeat this step for the other leg.\\nConsider wrapping some of the legs on the rectangular table as well. You can wrap whatever legs you want. They don't have to be right next to each other, like with the square table.\\nThese rope-wrapped legs will act as scratching posts for your cat, and save your furniture.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider covering top of the square table with carpet.\", \"描述\": \"This will make it more comfortable for your cat. Measure the top of your square table and buy some carpet according to those measurements. Scuff the top with rough sandpaper, and paint the entire surface with wood glue. Paint the back of the carpet with wood glue, then press the carpet down onto the table top.\\nIf your rectangular table has a shelf, consider cover that with carpet as well.\\nYou can use any color of carpet you like. It can match the table color, or contrast it. For example, if your table is white, consider blue or teal for the carpet.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Set the cat condo down where your cat will see it.\", \"描述\": \"Give your cat some time to get used to the condo. You can also encourage your cat to use it by leaving some cat treats or catnip on it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Making a Wooden Cat Condo\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get four cube-shaped boxes, each one 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) smaller than the last one.\", \"描述\": \"The largest box needs to have a top and bottom, but the smaller boxes only need a top. They don't need a bottom as they will be stacked on top of each other. The smallest box needs to be large enough for your cat to curl up inside.\\nFor a standard-sized cat, start with18 inches (45.72 centimeters) as your largest box. The other three boxes are as follows: 16 inches (40.64 centimeters), 14 inches (35.56 centimeters), and 12 inches (30.48 centimeters). If you have a large cat, such as a Maine Coon, you will need bigger boxes.\\nThe boxes can be made out of wood or cardboard. Wooden boxes, however, will be more durable.\\nYou can buy the boxes, or build them yourself using cheap wood or particle board. Use nails or wood glue to put the boxes together.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut doorways and windows into the sides of the boxes using a saw.\", \"描述\": \"Each box needs to have at least one doorway. Use the width of your cat's whiskers as a guideline for cutting the doors. Cats will not crawl through anything that is narrower than their whiskers.\\nYou can make the windows and doors any shape you want, but circles and paw prints are the most popular.\\nIf you are adding windows, make them smaller than the doorways.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut a crawl hole into the top corner of the three largest boxes.\", \"描述\": \"Use a small plate to trace the hole, and a saw to cut it out. Make sure that the hole fits inside the smaller box on top of it. Also, make sure that the craw holes are not in the same spot; you want them to be staggered.\\nKeep in mind that you will be stacking these boxes. You don't want the holes to be peeking out from under the upper box.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Paint outside and inside of the boxes.\", \"描述\": \"You can paint them using acrylic paint or spray paint. If you are using spray paint, wood outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. If you are using acrylic paint, apply the paint using a paintbrush or a foam brush. Apply the acrylic paint using many, thin layers rather than one thick layer. This will prevent any brush strokes.\\nYou can paint the boxes all the same color, or contrasting colors.\\nYou can paint the inside of the boxes the same color as the outside. You can also paint the inside a different color.\\nConsider painting the inside rims of the doors and windows using a contrasting color. This will help them stand out more.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Stack the boxes and secure them with wood glue.\", \"描述\": \"Place the largest box down on the floor. Cover the bottom edges of the second largest box with wood glue. Place the box down on top of the largest box, making sure that one of the corners and two of the sides are aligned. You will end up with a thick ledge around the smaller box. Repeat this process of the other boxes. Make sure that all of the boxes are aligned on the same corner.\\nMake sure that the doorways are facing the ledges.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Consider glue carpet down onto the boxes.\", \"描述\": \"This can make your cat condo cozier and more comfy for your cat. You can glue carpet down to just the inside floor of each box, or just the ledges. You can also glue carpet down to both the inside floor and the ledges. #* Consider gluing carpet down to the top of the smallest box. Your cat will likely perch on top of this box at some point. You might as well make it a comfortable perch.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place the cat condo in a place your cat will frequent.\", \"描述\": \"To encourage your cat to use the condo, scatter some catnip or cat treats inside it.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Encourage your cat to use the condo with toys. Consider leaving your cat's favorite toy inside the condo. If your cat likes to chase string or cat teasers, consider guiding your cat into/onto the cat condo with it.[4]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Reward your cat when she uses the condo with affection and attention. It may take some time before your cat uses her condo. When she does, give her lots of attention. If she likes getting scratched under the chin or behind the ear, do that. If she likes a certain cat treat, give her a few.[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Place the cat condo in a place your cat frequents. Your cat will be more likely to notice the cat condo. It may also help your cat that it is for her.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure no cats are nearby while you make this. Cats are curious creatures. The last thing you'd want is to get paint on your cat.\\n\", \"Be careful of the types of toys you leave inside the condo. Don't leave anything that will come apart easily or that your cat can choke on.\\n\", \"Do not force your cat to use it. If you do, your cat will start to associate bad things with it and avoid it.\\n\", \"Some cats just don't like cat condos. If your cat does not use the cat condo, try scattering some cat treats or catnip inside.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,261 |
How to Build a Cat House
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1. Outdoor Cat House
1-1. Find building materials.
Outdoor cats need shelter from wind, rain, and cold. Use sturdy building materials or repurpose an existing container. Try these:
Plastic storage tub from a hardware store (about 35 gallons / 132 L) (Easiest option)
Old doghouse from a friend or neighbor
Plywood or lumber (one 4 x 8 ft sheet, or assorted scrap)
1-2. Size it for a snug fit.
A cat's body heat can only warm up a small space. There's no magic size to aim for, but the largest shelters top out at about 26" tall x 26" x 32" (66 x 66 x 81 cm). If you're using an existing container significantly larger than this, saw it apart or divide it using plywood.
These dog house instructions will work for cats as well, with the modifications described below. Use these if you're building the house from lumber or plywood.
1-3. Make the roof removable.
A removable roof lets you easily change dirty bedding and check on an injured animal if it wanders in. If you're building the house yourself, attach the roof to the walls using a hinge.
If you're using a plastic storage tub, use the lid as a roof. Once complete, you can weigh down the roof using rocks or other heavy objects.
1-4. Raise the house off the ground (if necessary).
The shelter must be raised if you expect snowdrifts or floods in your area. 18 inches (46 cm) is enough for most areas, but 12" (30 cm) or less will work in areas with less severe weather. There are several solutions possible:
Keep the shelter on a covered, raised patio.
Stack the shelter on stacks of scrap lumber, concrete blocks, or other objects. The stack must be completely flat and sturdy. Surround it with heavy objects if necessary to prevent collapse.
Keep it on a sturdy plywood sheet raised off the ground by four 2x4s (38 x 89mm) legs attached with coated deck screws.
1-5. Create an entrance and exit.
Cats prefer shelters with two entrances, so they can escape from predators sniffing in one. Cut two 6 x 6" (15 x 15 cm) doorways on different sides. If using plastic, cover the sharp edges with duct tape.
If the house is not raised, start cutting the doorway about 2" (5 cm) above the ground to prevent flooding from rain.
If the house is raised, cut the entrance on a side with a ledge in front of it (from the plywood or stacked objects) so the cat can jump up to it. Cut the exit somewhere with no ledge beneath it, so predators can't easily access it.
For added warmth, staple or glue canvas drop cloth over the interior of each doorway.
1-6. Waterproof the shelter (if necessary).
The plastic storage tub is already waterproof, letting you skip this step. If you are using plywood or lumber, or a doghouse, sand and paint it to protect it from rain.
For serious protection and further insulation, cover the roof with roofing material.
1-7. Insulate the walls and roof.
A lumber cat house may be warm enough without this step, but any other material requires insulation. Line each wall by gluing on 1" (2.5 cm) thick foam insulation board from a home improvement store. Leave a 3" (7.5 cm) gap at the top of the walls. rest an additional piece of foam on top of the walls, to insulate the roof.
In areas with severe winter, consider using Mylar instead, which will reflect the cat's body heat. You may line the floor with Mylar as well.
Cut the foam with a utility knife.
1-8. Fill the house with burrowing materials.
Put in plenty of straw, without blocking the doorways, for cats to burrow in for additional warmth. If you don't have a straw, use pillowcases loosely stuffed with packing peanuts or shredded newspaper.
Do not use hay, which absorbs moisture and can cause allergies.
Do not use blankets, towels, or loose newspaper. These can absorb body heat and chill the cat.
Some cats will eat packing peanuts, which can cause intestinal blockage. Double-bag them with pillowcases to minimize this risk.
1-9. Provide food and water.
You can keep food inside the shelter, but water should be left outside to avoid spilling. Keep the water dish nearby.
In temperatures below freezing, use an electrically heated water dish. If you can't afford one, use a ceramic or thick plastic dish and surround it with styrofoam.
1-10. Lure cats in with catnip.
Invite feral cats into the shelter with a small amount of catnip just inside the entrance.
2. Indoor Cat House
2-1. Find several cardboard boxes.
For an indoor playhouse, a cardboard or Styrofoam box makes an especially easy house. You can build your own from corrugated cardboard, poster board, or any other lightweight material, but an existing box will be much sturdier. If the box is smaller than 2 x 3 feet (60 x 90 cm), you'll need multiple boxes to make the house big enough.
Cats may chew the cardboard or Styrofoam, so don't use anything you want to reuse.
2-2. Cut a couple of doors.
Use a utility knife to cut through one of the cardboard boxes. Each doorway should be 6 inches (15 cm) high to fit the cat comfortably.
Cut a couple of small windows or viewing strips if you want to watch the cat while it plays inside.
Glue rags or spare fabric over the doors and windows so you can give your cat some alone time.
2-3. Tape on additional boxes.
Add a couple of rooms to your cat's home with the additional boxes. To make a second story, cut a 6" (15 cm) hole in the ceiling and tape another box upside-down over it. There should be enough of a floor left for the cat to walk on.
Use packing tape, duct tape, or another sturdy tape.
2-4. Make it cozy and fun.
Add a small blanket or a cat bed inside. A scratching post or rough towel gives your cat something to scratch. And of course, what cat doesn't like a cat toy?
If you have a multistory cat house put an extra-fun toy on the highest level, so the cat has fun working out how to reach it.
2-5. Keep food, water, and litter outside the house.
Keeping them in the house usually leads to a mess, which might even collapse the cardboard. You can move them nearby, but show your cat their new location to make sure he doesn't return to his old bathroom spot.
Tips
Most cats have trouble adjusting to change. Check your outdoor shelter for annual repairs and maintenance before it gets cold, so you don't have to change it once a cat's found it.
If you find a stray cat and it is staying around you, build an outdoor house but make sure it has additional warmth so she/he will stay warm. Also, refill and clean bowls every day.
Warnings
If you paint the box let it dry before letting the cat in. You don't want paw prints all over your house.
If you Trap-Neuter-Release (TNR) in winter, make sure the shelters are extra well-insulated. Cats recovering from surgery need extra protection.[11]
X
Trustworthy Source
The Humane Society of the United States
National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare
Go to source
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Outdoor Cat House\\n1-1. Find building materials.\\nOutdoor cats need shelter from wind, rain, and cold. Use sturdy building materials or repurpose an existing container. Try these:\\nPlastic storage tub from a hardware store (about 35 gallons / 132 L) (Easiest option)\\nOld doghouse from a friend or neighbor\\nPlywood or lumber (one 4 x 8 ft sheet, or assorted scrap)\\n1-2. Size it for a snug fit.\\nA cat's body heat can only warm up a small space. There's no magic size to aim for, but the largest shelters top out at about 26\\\" tall x 26\\\" x 32\\\" (66 x 66 x 81 cm). If you're using an existing container significantly larger than this, saw it apart or divide it using plywood.\\nThese dog house instructions will work for cats as well, with the modifications described below. Use these if you're building the house from lumber or plywood.\\n1-3. Make the roof removable.\\nA removable roof lets you easily change dirty bedding and check on an injured animal if it wanders in. If you're building the house yourself, attach the roof to the walls using a hinge.\\nIf you're using a plastic storage tub, use the lid as a roof. Once complete, you can weigh down the roof using rocks or other heavy objects.\\n1-4. Raise the house off the ground (if necessary).\\nThe shelter must be raised if you expect snowdrifts or floods in your area. 18 inches (46 cm) is enough for most areas, but 12\\\" (30 cm) or less will work in areas with less severe weather. There are several solutions possible:\\nKeep the shelter on a covered, raised patio.\\nStack the shelter on stacks of scrap lumber, concrete blocks, or other objects. The stack must be completely flat and sturdy. Surround it with heavy objects if necessary to prevent collapse.\\nKeep it on a sturdy plywood sheet raised off the ground by four 2x4s (38 x 89mm) legs attached with coated deck screws.\\n1-5. Create an entrance and exit.\\nCats prefer shelters with two entrances, so they can escape from predators sniffing in one. Cut two 6 x 6\\\" (15 x 15 cm) doorways on different sides. If using plastic, cover the sharp edges with duct tape.\\nIf the house is not raised, start cutting the doorway about 2\\\" (5 cm) above the ground to prevent flooding from rain.\\nIf the house is raised, cut the entrance on a side with a ledge in front of it (from the plywood or stacked objects) so the cat can jump up to it. Cut the exit somewhere with no ledge beneath it, so predators can't easily access it.\\nFor added warmth, staple or glue canvas drop cloth over the interior of each doorway.\\n1-6. Waterproof the shelter (if necessary).\\nThe plastic storage tub is already waterproof, letting you skip this step. If you are using plywood or lumber, or a doghouse, sand and paint it to protect it from rain.\\nFor serious protection and further insulation, cover the roof with roofing material.\\n1-7. Insulate the walls and roof.\\nA lumber cat house may be warm enough without this step, but any other material requires insulation. Line each wall by gluing on 1\\\" (2.5 cm) thick foam insulation board from a home improvement store. Leave a 3\\\" (7.5 cm) gap at the top of the walls. rest an additional piece of foam on top of the walls, to insulate the roof.\\nIn areas with severe winter, consider using Mylar instead, which will reflect the cat's body heat. You may line the floor with Mylar as well.\\nCut the foam with a utility knife.\\n1-8. Fill the house with burrowing materials.\\nPut in plenty of straw, without blocking the doorways, for cats to burrow in for additional warmth. If you don't have a straw, use pillowcases loosely stuffed with packing peanuts or shredded newspaper.\\nDo not use hay, which absorbs moisture and can cause allergies.\\nDo not use blankets, towels, or loose newspaper. These can absorb body heat and chill the cat.\\nSome cats will eat packing peanuts, which can cause intestinal blockage. Double-bag them with pillowcases to minimize this risk.\\n1-9. Provide food and water.\\nYou can keep food inside the shelter, but water should be left outside to avoid spilling. Keep the water dish nearby.\\nIn temperatures below freezing, use an electrically heated water dish. If you can't afford one, use a ceramic or thick plastic dish and surround it with styrofoam.\\n1-10. Lure cats in with catnip.\\nInvite feral cats into the shelter with a small amount of catnip just inside the entrance.\\n2. Indoor Cat House\\n2-1. Find several cardboard boxes.\\nFor an indoor playhouse, a cardboard or Styrofoam box makes an especially easy house. You can build your own from corrugated cardboard, poster board, or any other lightweight material, but an existing box will be much sturdier. If the box is smaller than 2 x 3 feet (60 x 90 cm), you'll need multiple boxes to make the house big enough.\\nCats may chew the cardboard or Styrofoam, so don't use anything you want to reuse.\\n2-2. Cut a couple of doors.\\nUse a utility knife to cut through one of the cardboard boxes. Each doorway should be 6 inches (15 cm) high to fit the cat comfortably.\\nCut a couple of small windows or viewing strips if you want to watch the cat while it plays inside.\\nGlue rags or spare fabric over the doors and windows so you can give your cat some alone time.\\n2-3. Tape on additional boxes.\\nAdd a couple of rooms to your cat's home with the additional boxes. To make a second story, cut a 6\\\" (15 cm) hole in the ceiling and tape another box upside-down over it. There should be enough of a floor left for the cat to walk on.\\nUse packing tape, duct tape, or another sturdy tape.\\n2-4. Make it cozy and fun.\\nAdd a small blanket or a cat bed inside. A scratching post or rough towel gives your cat something to scratch. And of course, what cat doesn't like a cat toy?\\nIf you have a multistory cat house put an extra-fun toy on the highest level, so the cat has fun working out how to reach it.\\n2-5. Keep food, water, and litter outside the house.\\nKeeping them in the house usually leads to a mess, which might even collapse the cardboard. You can move them nearby, but show your cat their new location to make sure he doesn't return to his old bathroom spot.\\nTips\\nMost cats have trouble adjusting to change. Check your outdoor shelter for annual repairs and maintenance before it gets cold, so you don't have to change it once a cat's found it.\\nIf you find a stray cat and it is staying around you, build an outdoor house but make sure it has additional warmth so she/he will stay warm. Also, refill and clean bowls every day.\\nWarnings\\nIf you paint the box let it dry before letting the cat in. You don't want paw prints all over your house.\\nIf you Trap-Neuter-Release (TNR) in winter, make sure the shelters are extra well-insulated. Cats recovering from surgery need extra protection.[11]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nThe Humane Society of the United States\\nNational organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare\\nGo to source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A small, warm house can save a feral cat's life in winter. These are easy to construct from a plastic storage container, or from scrap lumber if you have a little carpentry experience. The indoor version is even easier and will entertain your cat and yourself as it scampers through cardboard boxes.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Outdoor Cat House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find building materials.\", \"描述\": \"Outdoor cats need shelter from wind, rain, and cold. Use sturdy building materials or repurpose an existing container. Try these:\\nPlastic storage tub from a hardware store (about 35 gallons / 132 L) (Easiest option)\\nOld doghouse from a friend or neighbor\\nPlywood or lumber (one 4 x 8 ft sheet, or assorted scrap)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Size it for a snug fit.\", \"描述\": \"A cat's body heat can only warm up a small space. There's no magic size to aim for, but the largest shelters top out at about 26\\\" tall x 26\\\" x 32\\\" (66 x 66 x 81 cm). If you're using an existing container significantly larger than this, saw it apart or divide it using plywood.\\nThese dog house instructions will work for cats as well, with the modifications described below. Use these if you're building the house from lumber or plywood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make the roof removable.\", \"描述\": \"A removable roof lets you easily change dirty bedding and check on an injured animal if it wanders in. If you're building the house yourself, attach the roof to the walls using a hinge.\\nIf you're using a plastic storage tub, use the lid as a roof. Once complete, you can weigh down the roof using rocks or other heavy objects.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Raise the house off the ground (if necessary).\", \"描述\": \"The shelter must be raised if you expect snowdrifts or floods in your area. 18 inches (46 cm) is enough for most areas, but 12\\\" (30 cm) or less will work in areas with less severe weather. There are several solutions possible:\\nKeep the shelter on a covered, raised patio.\\nStack the shelter on stacks of scrap lumber, concrete blocks, or other objects. The stack must be completely flat and sturdy. Surround it with heavy objects if necessary to prevent collapse.\\nKeep it on a sturdy plywood sheet raised off the ground by four 2x4s (38 x 89mm) legs attached with coated deck screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create an entrance and exit.\", \"描述\": \"Cats prefer shelters with two entrances, so they can escape from predators sniffing in one. Cut two 6 x 6\\\" (15 x 15 cm) doorways on different sides. If using plastic, cover the sharp edges with duct tape.\\nIf the house is not raised, start cutting the doorway about 2\\\" (5 cm) above the ground to prevent flooding from rain.\\nIf the house is raised, cut the entrance on a side with a ledge in front of it (from the plywood or stacked objects) so the cat can jump up to it. Cut the exit somewhere with no ledge beneath it, so predators can't easily access it.\\nFor added warmth, staple or glue canvas drop cloth over the interior of each doorway.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Waterproof the shelter (if necessary).\", \"描述\": \"The plastic storage tub is already waterproof, letting you skip this step. If you are using plywood or lumber, or a doghouse, sand and paint it to protect it from rain.\\nFor serious protection and further insulation, cover the roof with roofing material.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Insulate the walls and roof.\", \"描述\": \"A lumber cat house may be warm enough without this step, but any other material requires insulation. Line each wall by gluing on 1\\\" (2.5 cm) thick foam insulation board from a home improvement store. Leave a 3\\\" (7.5 cm) gap at the top of the walls. rest an additional piece of foam on top of the walls, to insulate the roof.\\nIn areas with severe winter, consider using Mylar instead, which will reflect the cat's body heat. You may line the floor with Mylar as well.\\nCut the foam with a utility knife.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Fill the house with burrowing materials.\", \"描述\": \"Put in plenty of straw, without blocking the doorways, for cats to burrow in for additional warmth. If you don't have a straw, use pillowcases loosely stuffed with packing peanuts or shredded newspaper.\\nDo not use hay, which absorbs moisture and can cause allergies.\\nDo not use blankets, towels, or loose newspaper. These can absorb body heat and chill the cat.\\nSome cats will eat packing peanuts, which can cause intestinal blockage. Double-bag them with pillowcases to minimize this risk.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Provide food and water.\", \"描述\": \"You can keep food inside the shelter, but water should be left outside to avoid spilling. Keep the water dish nearby.\\nIn temperatures below freezing, use an electrically heated water dish. If you can't afford one, use a ceramic or thick plastic dish and surround it with styrofoam.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Lure cats in with catnip.\", \"描述\": \"Invite feral cats into the shelter with a small amount of catnip just inside the entrance.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Indoor Cat House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find several cardboard boxes.\", \"描述\": \"For an indoor playhouse, a cardboard or Styrofoam box makes an especially easy house. You can build your own from corrugated cardboard, poster board, or any other lightweight material, but an existing box will be much sturdier. If the box is smaller than 2 x 3 feet (60 x 90 cm), you'll need multiple boxes to make the house big enough.\\nCats may chew the cardboard or Styrofoam, so don't use anything you want to reuse.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut a couple of doors.\", \"描述\": \"Use a utility knife to cut through one of the cardboard boxes. Each doorway should be 6 inches (15 cm) high to fit the cat comfortably.\\nCut a couple of small windows or viewing strips if you want to watch the cat while it plays inside.\\nGlue rags or spare fabric over the doors and windows so you can give your cat some alone time.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tape on additional boxes.\", \"描述\": \"Add a couple of rooms to your cat's home with the additional boxes. To make a second story, cut a 6\\\" (15 cm) hole in the ceiling and tape another box upside-down over it. There should be enough of a floor left for the cat to walk on.\\nUse packing tape, duct tape, or another sturdy tape.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make it cozy and fun.\", \"描述\": \"Add a small blanket or a cat bed inside. A scratching post or rough towel gives your cat something to scratch. And of course, what cat doesn't like a cat toy?\\nIf you have a multistory cat house put an extra-fun toy on the highest level, so the cat has fun working out how to reach it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Keep food, water, and litter outside the house.\", \"描述\": \"Keeping them in the house usually leads to a mess, which might even collapse the cardboard. You can move them nearby, but show your cat their new location to make sure he doesn't return to his old bathroom spot.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Most cats have trouble adjusting to change. Check your outdoor shelter for annual repairs and maintenance before it gets cold, so you don't have to change it once a cat's found it.\\n\", \"If you find a stray cat and it is staying around you, build an outdoor house but make sure it has additional warmth so she/he will stay warm. Also, refill and clean bowls every day.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you paint the box let it dry before letting the cat in. You don't want paw prints all over your house.\\n\", \"If you Trap-Neuter-Release (TNR) in winter, make sure the shelters are extra well-insulated. Cats recovering from surgery need extra protection.[11]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nThe Humane Society of the United States\\nNational organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare\\nGo to source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,262 |
How to Build a Cedar Fence
|
1. Situating Your Fence
1-1. Find your property line.
Before you start planning your project, walk the perimeter of your yard and identify the property stakes that show where your land ends and your neighbor's begins. A metal detector will beep whenever you come across buried marker pins. Sometimes, property stakes are driven above ground. In this case, a colored flag will make them plainly visible.
Oftentimes there may be a utility or municipality easement along your property lines, so be sure to check for them when you inquire with local authorities for codes and permitting.
If there's any confusion about how your property lines are drawn, call a surveyor out to have a look.
Building your fence in the wrong place can have consequences—if you're even slightly over your property line, you could be subjected to a fine, or even asked to take it down. In some cases, it may be safer to build your fence slightly inside the property lines so that you are the only one building and maintaining the fence. This could help protect you against future claims over your fence's placing.
1-2. Determine how tall your fence should be
To get an idea of how high your fence needs to be, consider its primary purpose. Is it meant to screen the entire backyard from sight, or is it simply to add some rustic character to your surroundings? Putting some thought into your specific needs will allow you to buy just the right amount of materials and avoid wasteful overspending.
Generally, a privacy fence should be at least 6 feet (1.8 m) tall in order to keep others from being able to see into your property.
Local ordinances or homeowner's association regulations may limit how tall your fence can be. Review the building codes for your city, county, province, or township to find out how tall your fence can legally be.
1-3. Clear the area where your fence will be built.
You should clear a work area that includes 2 feet (0.61 m) on both sides of the fence location. Remove all vegetation, obstacles, and debris from the area, then level the ground as best as possible.
1-4. Call your nationwide "Digline" utility locate number.
Before driving, pushing, or digging any more than just a few inches or centimeters - no more than 6 inches (15 centimeters) - in the ground, you must call the "Digline" number and request the locations of utility service companies in your area. This will help you avoid striking or disturbing utility lines in the area. Call at least a full two days prior to disturbing any soil. Follow all directions to avoid any possible fines, liability of repairs, personal or property damage, and even death.
It is a free call in the U.S.A. The number is 811.
1-5. Drive stakes where your fence's support posts will go.
Set your corner posts first before laying out the rest of your support posts. Drive two temporary steel posts to help you stake the fence. Tie a string between the posts at the top and bottom to act as guidelines. A good rule of thumb is to keep the posts less than 8 feet (2.4 m) apart. Proper spacing will prevent the horizontal rails from sagging over time. Once you've figured out the best place for each post, the stakes will mark their position until you begin construction.
You could also use marking paint instead of stakes, which would avoid creating a trip hazard.
To determine the ideal number of posts and spacing between them, try the following: measure the planned fence length (e.g., 75 feet (23 m)); divide it by the maximum recommended post spacing (8 feet (2.4 m)), and, if needed, reduce this divisor by regular intervals (e.g., 7.5 ft, 7 ft, 6.5 ft) until your result is a whole number (without decimals) or very near one (e.g., 7.5 feet (2.3 m) for a 75 foot (23 m) fence). Add one to the result (e.g., 75 / 7.5 = 10; 10 + 1 = 11) to determine the number of posts.
Take into consideration any gate posts, bracing posts for gates, and corner posts as well.
1-6. Sight your post lines using string.
Run the string from one post marker stake to the next, looping it around the tops of the stakes as you go. Pull the string taut so that it forms a straight line. You'll now have an easier time visualizing the path your fence will follow.
Use brightly-colored string or yarn that's easy to see so you can survey the prospective fence line from every part of your property.
The string will create a tripping hazard, so move carefully around your work site to avoid tripping.
2. Setting the Posts
2-1. Dig holes for the posts.
Use a manual post hole digger to scoop out an opening over each of the spots where your marker stakes are located, pulling up the stakes as you go. For a standard 6 foot (1.8 m) (1.8m) privacy fence, each of your post holes should be approximately 2.5–3 feet (0.76–0.91 m) deep. For any fence height, always make sure your posts are at least 20 inches in the ground. Alternatively, at least 1/3 of the length of the post should be in the ground, and 2/3 of the length of the post should be above ground.
Be sure to measure the posts you're working with so you'll know exactly how deep you'll need to dig.
Since gate and corner posts are often larger in diameter, they should be placed far enough in the ground to support the weight of the gate and bracing.
A gas-powered auger can cut down on your digging time, if you have access to one.
2-2. Pour gravel into the bottom of the post holes.
Add roughly 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) inches per hole. The gravel will provide a more stable base for the posts and promote drainage within the soil. Over time, this can help safeguard your fence posts from rotting, splitting, and other moisture-related complications.
You can also use a mixture of aggregate, gravel, and sand for more firmly-packed substrate.
2-3. Insert the posts into the holes
Slide the ends of the posts into the openings, then slowly lower them as you stand them up. Take a moment to double check that the posts are perfectly straight by plumbing them on both sides with a level, are spaced evenly between posts, and are within your property line before pouring in concrete—sight each post with the one beside it and use your level to ensure that they don't slant.
Measure the first post you set to confirm that it's the right height. You can use this post as a visual reference when installing the remaining posts. As an alternative, you could install a very tight string line at the desired fence height between the corner posts or corner to gate posts.
Double check your measurements often and before your concrete sets.
Cedar posts can be quite heavy, so you may need a couple extra sets of hands for this step.
Make sure that your bracing material is ready to use on two sides of the post, including 2 stakes, 1x4-inch (2.5x10 cm) or 2x4-inch (2.54x5 cm) lumber, hammer, nails or screws, or an electric drill. This will firmly hold the posts in place while the cement sets.
2-4. Fill the remaining space with quick set concrete.
Have a helper hold the posts upright, making sure the faces and corners are square. Shovel the wet concrete into the empty space around each post. It will take at least 15 to 20 minutes for the concrete to set. It will take another 24 hours for the concrete to cure.
Mix your concrete in a wheelbarrow so you can transport it from post to post without difficulty.
You'll likely need at least 2-3 bags of ready-made concrete for your project.
3. Installing the Rails
3-1. Mark the position of the horizontal rails.
For a 6 foot (1.8m) fence, the top rails should sit somewhere around 8 inches (20 cm) beneath the head of the support posts, while the bottom rails should terminate about 9 inches (23 cm) above ground level. Notch a dark line to indicate the outer edge against which the rails will be centered.
Draw your lines on the lower edge of the top rails and the upper edge of the bottom rails. This will allow you to keep an eye on them while positioning the rails.
To keep the height of the rails consistent, be sure to measure and mark each post separately.
3-2. Screw the rails to the support posts.
Position the rails at the appropriate height and use a level to make sure they're not lopsided. Crown the rails by sighting down both sides of them to check for any curvature to the rail, and then place the high side up before installing them. Then, attach the rails using heavy-duty 3 inch (7.6 cm) rust-resistant wood screws. For maximum stability, place the screws a couple inches apart at the top and bottom of the rails.
It may be helpful to pre-drill pilot holes to prevent the end of the rail boards from splitting when you install screw anchors.
Keep in mind that your rails will go on the backside of the fence (the side visible from your property).
If you're working alone, you may need to clamp or tie the rails in place until you can fasten them.
3-3. Trim the ends of the rails.
Fire up your circular saw and cut away the excess wood so the rails are even with the support posts. If your privacy fence extends from your home, leave the rails slightly longer on the closest end so that they run flush against the side of the house.
Make sure that the rail only covers part of the fence post, leaving room for the rail on the other side. Each fence post will hold up two rail posts, one on each side.
It may be easiest to get your lumber precut if you've already plotted out the dimensions of your fence in detail. That way, you'll be able to simply assemble the separate pieces once they've been properly measured and positioned.
4. Attaching the Pickets
4-1. Set the pickets at the appropriate height.
The bottom of the pickets, or the vertical slats that will create most of the fence's coverage, should come within about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) of the ground or just a bit higher to prevent rotting—not too high or too low. One simple way to ensure correct placement is to place a 2x4 on the ground and stand the pickets on top while you line them up. This way, you can guarantee that each of the pickets is the same height.
Alternatively, you can install two pickets on either end, run a string between them and line up the remaining pickets with the string.
The exact height of the pickets is largely a matter of preference. You might choose to make the tops of your fence's pickets even with the support posts, or lower them a few inches for a gradated look if your fence is built on a hillside.
Be sure to occasionally check the pickets to make sure they are plumb, using a level for vertical straightness.
4-2. Space the pickets evenly.
It's a good idea to use a thin spacer, such as a ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) piece of scrap plywood, to keep the pickets at regular intervals. You'll attach the first picket, then hold the spacer perpendicularly while positioning the next one and so on. This method is much more efficient than stopping to measure each space separately, and much more reliable than trying to eyeball it.
Since privacy is the goal, it's not recommended that you space the pickets more than ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) apart.
4-3. Fasten the pickets into place
Check the placement of the pickets, then nail or screw them to the horizontal rails one at a time. Use 2 nails or screws for each rail to reinforce the attachment site and make sure the fence holds up for a good long time. Repeat until you've filled in each open section of fencing.As you did with the rails, it may be helpful to devise a way to hold the pickets steady while you secure them.
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4-4. Spray the completed fence with a protective finish.
A thin layer of semitransparent wood stain or oil-based varnish will help seal the pores in the cedar, improving its odds against the elements. Apply the finish using a pump sprayer or an airless paint sprayer and work one section at a time, aiming for full coverage. Go over both sides of the fence, and don't forget to touch up the exposed end grain, as well.
While cedar's properties make it naturally water resistant, a quality finish can be invaluable for increasing your fence's lifespan.
Once the stain or varnish has had time to fully dry, you can proceed to paint your fence if so desired.
Tips
Use stainless steel nails and screws to prevent your fence from rusting.[24]
X
Expert Source
Melissa & Michael GabsoRemodel & Redesign Experts
Expert Interview. 7 October 2020.
Always use pressure-treated wood for your fence structures.[25]
X
Expert Source
Melissa & Michael GabsoRemodel & Redesign Experts
Expert Interview. 7 October 2020.
Read up on the building codes in your area to make sure your fence is in compliance with local ordinances and other regulations, such as homeowner's association guidelines.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Situating Your Fence\\n1-1. Find your property line.\\nBefore you start planning your project, walk the perimeter of your yard and identify the property stakes that show where your land ends and your neighbor's begins. A metal detector will beep whenever you come across buried marker pins. Sometimes, property stakes are driven above ground. In this case, a colored flag will make them plainly visible.\\nOftentimes there may be a utility or municipality easement along your property lines, so be sure to check for them when you inquire with local authorities for codes and permitting.\\nIf there's any confusion about how your property lines are drawn, call a surveyor out to have a look.\\nBuilding your fence in the wrong place can have consequences—if you're even slightly over your property line, you could be subjected to a fine, or even asked to take it down. In some cases, it may be safer to build your fence slightly inside the property lines so that you are the only one building and maintaining the fence. This could help protect you against future claims over your fence's placing.\\n1-2. Determine how tall your fence should be\\nTo get an idea of how high your fence needs to be, consider its primary purpose. Is it meant to screen the entire backyard from sight, or is it simply to add some rustic character to your surroundings? Putting some thought into your specific needs will allow you to buy just the right amount of materials and avoid wasteful overspending.\\nGenerally, a privacy fence should be at least 6 feet (1.8 m) tall in order to keep others from being able to see into your property.\\nLocal ordinances or homeowner's association regulations may limit how tall your fence can be. Review the building codes for your city, county, province, or township to find out how tall your fence can legally be.\\n1-3. Clear the area where your fence will be built.\\nYou should clear a work area that includes 2 feet (0.61 m) on both sides of the fence location. Remove all vegetation, obstacles, and debris from the area, then level the ground as best as possible.\\n1-4. Call your nationwide \\\"Digline\\\" utility locate number.\\nBefore driving, pushing, or digging any more than just a few inches or centimeters - no more than 6 inches (15 centimeters) - in the ground, you must call the \\\"Digline\\\" number and request the locations of utility service companies in your area. This will help you avoid striking or disturbing utility lines in the area. Call at least a full two days prior to disturbing any soil. Follow all directions to avoid any possible fines, liability of repairs, personal or property damage, and even death. \\nIt is a free call in the U.S.A. The number is 811.\\n1-5. Drive stakes where your fence's support posts will go.\\nSet your corner posts first before laying out the rest of your support posts. Drive two temporary steel posts to help you stake the fence. Tie a string between the posts at the top and bottom to act as guidelines. A good rule of thumb is to keep the posts less than 8 feet (2.4 m) apart. Proper spacing will prevent the horizontal rails from sagging over time. Once you've figured out the best place for each post, the stakes will mark their position until you begin construction.\\nYou could also use marking paint instead of stakes, which would avoid creating a trip hazard.\\nTo determine the ideal number of posts and spacing between them, try the following: measure the planned fence length (e.g., 75 feet (23 m)); divide it by the maximum recommended post spacing (8 feet (2.4 m)), and, if needed, reduce this divisor by regular intervals (e.g., 7.5 ft, 7 ft, 6.5 ft) until your result is a whole number (without decimals) or very near one (e.g., 7.5 feet (2.3 m) for a 75 foot (23 m) fence). Add one to the result (e.g., 75 / 7.5 = 10; 10 + 1 = 11) to determine the number of posts.\\nTake into consideration any gate posts, bracing posts for gates, and corner posts as well.\\n1-6. Sight your post lines using string.\\nRun the string from one post marker stake to the next, looping it around the tops of the stakes as you go. Pull the string taut so that it forms a straight line. You'll now have an easier time visualizing the path your fence will follow.\\nUse brightly-colored string or yarn that's easy to see so you can survey the prospective fence line from every part of your property.\\nThe string will create a tripping hazard, so move carefully around your work site to avoid tripping.\\n2. Setting the Posts\\n2-1. Dig holes for the posts.\\nUse a manual post hole digger to scoop out an opening over each of the spots where your marker stakes are located, pulling up the stakes as you go. For a standard 6 foot (1.8 m) (1.8m) privacy fence, each of your post holes should be approximately 2.5–3 feet (0.76–0.91 m) deep. For any fence height, always make sure your posts are at least 20 inches in the ground. Alternatively, at least 1/3 of the length of the post should be in the ground, and 2/3 of the length of the post should be above ground. \\nBe sure to measure the posts you're working with so you'll know exactly how deep you'll need to dig.\\nSince gate and corner posts are often larger in diameter, they should be placed far enough in the ground to support the weight of the gate and bracing.\\nA gas-powered auger can cut down on your digging time, if you have access to one.\\n2-2. Pour gravel into the bottom of the post holes.\\nAdd roughly 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) inches per hole. The gravel will provide a more stable base for the posts and promote drainage within the soil. Over time, this can help safeguard your fence posts from rotting, splitting, and other moisture-related complications.\\nYou can also use a mixture of aggregate, gravel, and sand for more firmly-packed substrate.\\n2-3. Insert the posts into the holes\\nSlide the ends of the posts into the openings, then slowly lower them as you stand them up. Take a moment to double check that the posts are perfectly straight by plumbing them on both sides with a level, are spaced evenly between posts, and are within your property line before pouring in concrete—sight each post with the one beside it and use your level to ensure that they don't slant.\\nMeasure the first post you set to confirm that it's the right height. You can use this post as a visual reference when installing the remaining posts. As an alternative, you could install a very tight string line at the desired fence height between the corner posts or corner to gate posts.\\nDouble check your measurements often and before your concrete sets.\\nCedar posts can be quite heavy, so you may need a couple extra sets of hands for this step.\\nMake sure that your bracing material is ready to use on two sides of the post, including 2 stakes, 1x4-inch (2.5x10 cm) or 2x4-inch (2.54x5 cm) lumber, hammer, nails or screws, or an electric drill. This will firmly hold the posts in place while the cement sets.\\n2-4. Fill the remaining space with quick set concrete.\\nHave a helper hold the posts upright, making sure the faces and corners are square. Shovel the wet concrete into the empty space around each post. It will take at least 15 to 20 minutes for the concrete to set. It will take another 24 hours for the concrete to cure.\\nMix your concrete in a wheelbarrow so you can transport it from post to post without difficulty.\\nYou'll likely need at least 2-3 bags of ready-made concrete for your project.\\n3. Installing the Rails\\n3-1. Mark the position of the horizontal rails.\\nFor a 6 foot (1.8m) fence, the top rails should sit somewhere around 8 inches (20 cm) beneath the head of the support posts, while the bottom rails should terminate about 9 inches (23 cm) above ground level. Notch a dark line to indicate the outer edge against which the rails will be centered.\\nDraw your lines on the lower edge of the top rails and the upper edge of the bottom rails. This will allow you to keep an eye on them while positioning the rails.\\nTo keep the height of the rails consistent, be sure to measure and mark each post separately.\\n3-2. Screw the rails to the support posts.\\nPosition the rails at the appropriate height and use a level to make sure they're not lopsided. Crown the rails by sighting down both sides of them to check for any curvature to the rail, and then place the high side up before installing them. Then, attach the rails using heavy-duty 3 inch (7.6 cm) rust-resistant wood screws. For maximum stability, place the screws a couple inches apart at the top and bottom of the rails.\\nIt may be helpful to pre-drill pilot holes to prevent the end of the rail boards from splitting when you install screw anchors.\\nKeep in mind that your rails will go on the backside of the fence (the side visible from your property).\\nIf you're working alone, you may need to clamp or tie the rails in place until you can fasten them.\\n3-3. Trim the ends of the rails.\\nFire up your circular saw and cut away the excess wood so the rails are even with the support posts. If your privacy fence extends from your home, leave the rails slightly longer on the closest end so that they run flush against the side of the house.\\nMake sure that the rail only covers part of the fence post, leaving room for the rail on the other side. Each fence post will hold up two rail posts, one on each side.\\nIt may be easiest to get your lumber precut if you've already plotted out the dimensions of your fence in detail. That way, you'll be able to simply assemble the separate pieces once they've been properly measured and positioned.\\n4. Attaching the Pickets\\n4-1. Set the pickets at the appropriate height.\\nThe bottom of the pickets, or the vertical slats that will create most of the fence's coverage, should come within about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) of the ground or just a bit higher to prevent rotting—not too high or too low. One simple way to ensure correct placement is to place a 2x4 on the ground and stand the pickets on top while you line them up. This way, you can guarantee that each of the pickets is the same height.\\nAlternatively, you can install two pickets on either end, run a string between them and line up the remaining pickets with the string.\\nThe exact height of the pickets is largely a matter of preference. You might choose to make the tops of your fence's pickets even with the support posts, or lower them a few inches for a gradated look if your fence is built on a hillside.\\nBe sure to occasionally check the pickets to make sure they are plumb, using a level for vertical straightness.\\n4-2. Space the pickets evenly.\\nIt's a good idea to use a thin spacer, such as a ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) piece of scrap plywood, to keep the pickets at regular intervals. You'll attach the first picket, then hold the spacer perpendicularly while positioning the next one and so on. This method is much more efficient than stopping to measure each space separately, and much more reliable than trying to eyeball it.\\nSince privacy is the goal, it's not recommended that you space the pickets more than ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) apart.\\n4-3. Fasten the pickets into place\\nCheck the placement of the pickets, then nail or screw them to the horizontal rails one at a time. Use 2 nails or screws for each rail to reinforce the attachment site and make sure the fence holds up for a good long time. Repeat until you've filled in each open section of fencing.As you did with the rails, it may be helpful to devise a way to hold the pickets steady while you secure them. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/79\\\\/9436250-17.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-9436250-17.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/79\\\\/9436250-17.jpg\\\\/aid9436250-v4-728px-9436250-17.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n4-4. Spray the completed fence with a protective finish.\\nA thin layer of semitransparent wood stain or oil-based varnish will help seal the pores in the cedar, improving its odds against the elements. Apply the finish using a pump sprayer or an airless paint sprayer and work one section at a time, aiming for full coverage. Go over both sides of the fence, and don't forget to touch up the exposed end grain, as well.\\nWhile cedar's properties make it naturally water resistant, a quality finish can be invaluable for increasing your fence's lifespan.\\nOnce the stain or varnish has had time to fully dry, you can proceed to paint your fence if so desired.\\nTips\\nUse stainless steel nails and screws to prevent your fence from rusting.[24]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nMelissa & Michael GabsoRemodel & Redesign Experts\\nExpert Interview. 7 October 2020.\\nAlways use pressure-treated wood for your fence structures.[25]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nMelissa & Michael GabsoRemodel & Redesign Experts\\nExpert Interview. 7 October 2020.\\nRead up on the building codes in your area to make sure your fence is in compliance with local ordinances and other regulations, such as homeowner's association guidelines.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If enjoying the peace and quiet in your backyard leaves you feeling exposed, a privacy fence may be just what you need. And when it comes to building prominent structures like fences, cedar is one of the best materials out there. It's strong, long-lasting, and naturally water resistant, and makes an attractive addition to any property. To get started building your own fence, you'll first need to identify your property boundaries and dig holes for the support posts. Once those are properly spaced and set, you can install the horizontal rails and begin the process of attaching the individual pickets to shield your idyllic outdoor sanctuary from prying eyes.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Situating Your Fence\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find your property line.\", \"描述\": \"Before you start planning your project, walk the perimeter of your yard and identify the property stakes that show where your land ends and your neighbor's begins. A metal detector will beep whenever you come across buried marker pins. Sometimes, property stakes are driven above ground. In this case, a colored flag will make them plainly visible.\\nOftentimes there may be a utility or municipality easement along your property lines, so be sure to check for them when you inquire with local authorities for codes and permitting.\\nIf there's any confusion about how your property lines are drawn, call a surveyor out to have a look.\\nBuilding your fence in the wrong place can have consequences—if you're even slightly over your property line, you could be subjected to a fine, or even asked to take it down. In some cases, it may be safer to build your fence slightly inside the property lines so that you are the only one building and maintaining the fence. This could help protect you against future claims over your fence's placing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine how tall your fence should be\", \"描述\": \"To get an idea of how high your fence needs to be, consider its primary purpose. Is it meant to screen the entire backyard from sight, or is it simply to add some rustic character to your surroundings? Putting some thought into your specific needs will allow you to buy just the right amount of materials and avoid wasteful overspending.\\nGenerally, a privacy fence should be at least 6 feet (1.8 m) tall in order to keep others from being able to see into your property.\\nLocal ordinances or homeowner's association regulations may limit how tall your fence can be. Review the building codes for your city, county, province, or township to find out how tall your fence can legally be.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clear the area where your fence will be built.\", \"描述\": \"You should clear a work area that includes 2 feet (0.61 m) on both sides of the fence location. Remove all vegetation, obstacles, and debris from the area, then level the ground as best as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Call your nationwide \\\"Digline\\\" utility locate number.\", \"描述\": \"Before driving, pushing, or digging any more than just a few inches or centimeters - no more than 6 inches (15 centimeters) - in the ground, you must call the \\\"Digline\\\" number and request the locations of utility service companies in your area. This will help you avoid striking or disturbing utility lines in the area. Call at least a full two days prior to disturbing any soil. Follow all directions to avoid any possible fines, liability of repairs, personal or property damage, and even death. \\nIt is a free call in the U.S.A. The number is 811.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drive stakes where your fence's support posts will go.\", \"描述\": \"Set your corner posts first before laying out the rest of your support posts. Drive two temporary steel posts to help you stake the fence. Tie a string between the posts at the top and bottom to act as guidelines. A good rule of thumb is to keep the posts less than 8 feet (2.4 m) apart. Proper spacing will prevent the horizontal rails from sagging over time. Once you've figured out the best place for each post, the stakes will mark their position until you begin construction.\\nYou could also use marking paint instead of stakes, which would avoid creating a trip hazard.\\nTo determine the ideal number of posts and spacing between them, try the following: measure the planned fence length (e.g., 75 feet (23 m)); divide it by the maximum recommended post spacing (8 feet (2.4 m)), and, if needed, reduce this divisor by regular intervals (e.g., 7.5 ft, 7 ft, 6.5 ft) until your result is a whole number (without decimals) or very near one (e.g., 7.5 feet (2.3 m) for a 75 foot (23 m) fence). Add one to the result (e.g., 75 / 7.5 = 10; 10 + 1 = 11) to determine the number of posts.\\nTake into consideration any gate posts, bracing posts for gates, and corner posts as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Sight your post lines using string.\", \"描述\": \"Run the string from one post marker stake to the next, looping it around the tops of the stakes as you go. Pull the string taut so that it forms a straight line. You'll now have an easier time visualizing the path your fence will follow.\\nUse brightly-colored string or yarn that's easy to see so you can survey the prospective fence line from every part of your property.\\nThe string will create a tripping hazard, so move carefully around your work site to avoid tripping.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Setting the Posts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig holes for the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Use a manual post hole digger to scoop out an opening over each of the spots where your marker stakes are located, pulling up the stakes as you go. For a standard 6 foot (1.8 m) (1.8m) privacy fence, each of your post holes should be approximately 2.5–3 feet (0.76–0.91 m) deep. For any fence height, always make sure your posts are at least 20 inches in the ground. Alternatively, at least 1/3 of the length of the post should be in the ground, and 2/3 of the length of the post should be above ground. \\nBe sure to measure the posts you're working with so you'll know exactly how deep you'll need to dig.\\nSince gate and corner posts are often larger in diameter, they should be placed far enough in the ground to support the weight of the gate and bracing.\\nA gas-powered auger can cut down on your digging time, if you have access to one.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pour gravel into the bottom of the post holes.\", \"描述\": \"Add roughly 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) inches per hole. The gravel will provide a more stable base for the posts and promote drainage within the soil. Over time, this can help safeguard your fence posts from rotting, splitting, and other moisture-related complications.\\nYou can also use a mixture of aggregate, gravel, and sand for more firmly-packed substrate.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert the posts into the holes\", \"描述\": \"Slide the ends of the posts into the openings, then slowly lower them as you stand them up. Take a moment to double check that the posts are perfectly straight by plumbing them on both sides with a level, are spaced evenly between posts, and are within your property line before pouring in concrete—sight each post with the one beside it and use your level to ensure that they don't slant.\\nMeasure the first post you set to confirm that it's the right height. You can use this post as a visual reference when installing the remaining posts. As an alternative, you could install a very tight string line at the desired fence height between the corner posts or corner to gate posts.\\nDouble check your measurements often and before your concrete sets.\\nCedar posts can be quite heavy, so you may need a couple extra sets of hands for this step.\\nMake sure that your bracing material is ready to use on two sides of the post, including 2 stakes, 1x4-inch (2.5x10 cm) or 2x4-inch (2.54x5 cm) lumber, hammer, nails or screws, or an electric drill. This will firmly hold the posts in place while the cement sets.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill the remaining space with quick set concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Have a helper hold the posts upright, making sure the faces and corners are square. Shovel the wet concrete into the empty space around each post. It will take at least 15 to 20 minutes for the concrete to set. It will take another 24 hours for the concrete to cure.\\nMix your concrete in a wheelbarrow so you can transport it from post to post without difficulty.\\nYou'll likely need at least 2-3 bags of ready-made concrete for your project.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Rails\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark the position of the horizontal rails.\", \"描述\": \"For a 6 foot (1.8m) fence, the top rails should sit somewhere around 8 inches (20 cm) beneath the head of the support posts, while the bottom rails should terminate about 9 inches (23 cm) above ground level. Notch a dark line to indicate the outer edge against which the rails will be centered.\\nDraw your lines on the lower edge of the top rails and the upper edge of the bottom rails. This will allow you to keep an eye on them while positioning the rails.\\nTo keep the height of the rails consistent, be sure to measure and mark each post separately.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw the rails to the support posts.\", \"描述\": \"Position the rails at the appropriate height and use a level to make sure they're not lopsided. Crown the rails by sighting down both sides of them to check for any curvature to the rail, and then place the high side up before installing them. Then, attach the rails using heavy-duty 3 inch (7.6 cm) rust-resistant wood screws. For maximum stability, place the screws a couple inches apart at the top and bottom of the rails.\\nIt may be helpful to pre-drill pilot holes to prevent the end of the rail boards from splitting when you install screw anchors.\\nKeep in mind that your rails will go on the backside of the fence (the side visible from your property).\\nIf you're working alone, you may need to clamp or tie the rails in place until you can fasten them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Trim the ends of the rails.\", \"描述\": \"Fire up your circular saw and cut away the excess wood so the rails are even with the support posts. If your privacy fence extends from your home, leave the rails slightly longer on the closest end so that they run flush against the side of the house.\\nMake sure that the rail only covers part of the fence post, leaving room for the rail on the other side. Each fence post will hold up two rail posts, one on each side.\\nIt may be easiest to get your lumber precut if you've already plotted out the dimensions of your fence in detail. That way, you'll be able to simply assemble the separate pieces once they've been properly measured and positioned.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Pickets\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set the pickets at the appropriate height.\", \"描述\": \"The bottom of the pickets, or the vertical slats that will create most of the fence's coverage, should come within about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) of the ground or just a bit higher to prevent rotting—not too high or too low. One simple way to ensure correct placement is to place a 2x4 on the ground and stand the pickets on top while you line them up. This way, you can guarantee that each of the pickets is the same height.\\nAlternatively, you can install two pickets on either end, run a string between them and line up the remaining pickets with the string.\\nThe exact height of the pickets is largely a matter of preference. You might choose to make the tops of your fence's pickets even with the support posts, or lower them a few inches for a gradated look if your fence is built on a hillside.\\nBe sure to occasionally check the pickets to make sure they are plumb, using a level for vertical straightness.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Space the pickets evenly.\", \"描述\": \"It's a good idea to use a thin spacer, such as a ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) piece of scrap plywood, to keep the pickets at regular intervals. You'll attach the first picket, then hold the spacer perpendicularly while positioning the next one and so on. This method is much more efficient than stopping to measure each space separately, and much more reliable than trying to eyeball it.\\nSince privacy is the goal, it's not recommended that you space the pickets more than ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fasten the pickets into place\", \"描述\": \"Check the placement of the pickets, then nail or screw them to the horizontal rails one at a time. Use 2 nails or screws for each rail to reinforce the attachment site and make sure the fence holds up for a good long time. Repeat until you've filled in each open section of fencing.As you did with the rails, it may be helpful to devise a way to hold the pickets steady while you secure them. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/79\\\\/9436250-17.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-9436250-17.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/79\\\\/9436250-17.jpg\\\\/aid9436250-v4-728px-9436250-17.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Spray the completed fence with a protective finish.\", \"描述\": \"A thin layer of semitransparent wood stain or oil-based varnish will help seal the pores in the cedar, improving its odds against the elements. Apply the finish using a pump sprayer or an airless paint sprayer and work one section at a time, aiming for full coverage. Go over both sides of the fence, and don't forget to touch up the exposed end grain, as well.\\nWhile cedar's properties make it naturally water resistant, a quality finish can be invaluable for increasing your fence's lifespan.\\nOnce the stain or varnish has had time to fully dry, you can proceed to paint your fence if so desired.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use stainless steel nails and screws to prevent your fence from rusting.[24]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nMelissa & Michael GabsoRemodel & Redesign Experts\\nExpert Interview. 7 October 2020.\\n\", \"Always use pressure-treated wood for your fence structures.[25]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nMelissa & Michael GabsoRemodel & Redesign Experts\\nExpert Interview. 7 October 2020.\\n\", \"Read up on the building codes in your area to make sure your fence is in compliance with local ordinances and other regulations, such as homeowner's association guidelines.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,263 |
How to Build a Chair in Minecraft
|
1. Steps
1-1. Make sure that you collect 3 trapdoors, 1 minecart, some rails, and a pickaxe of any type (optional).
1-2. Place the three trapdoors in a box pattern so that the doors take on a chair-like formation.
Leave the front side where you want your seat to be empty.
1-3. Place the two rails facing towards the spot where you want to sit.
A basic diagram is below.
_ | | ^
The rails would be faced in the direction the small arrow ( ^ ) is.
1-4. Place the minecart on the rail farthest away from your chair and push it into place.
This can take a few attempts, so if at first you don't succeed, try, try again!
1-5. Remove the rails, and voila!
A working chair in Minecraft!
Tips
This chair can take about 30 seconds to a minute to build if you have practiced it a few times and have all the necessary materials.
Don't get frustrated if you can't get the trapdoors right the first few times. It takes practice, so if you need a break, just come back to it later.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Make sure that you collect 3 trapdoors, 1 minecart, some rails, and a pickaxe of any type (optional).\\n\\n1-2. Place the three trapdoors in a box pattern so that the doors take on a chair-like formation.\\nLeave the front side where you want your seat to be empty.\\n1-3. Place the two rails facing towards the spot where you want to sit.\\nA basic diagram is below.\\n_ | | ^\\nThe rails would be faced in the direction the small arrow ( ^ ) is.\\n1-4. Place the minecart on the rail farthest away from your chair and push it into place.\\nThis can take a few attempts, so if at first you don't succeed, try, try again!\\n1-5. Remove the rails, and voila!\\nA working chair in Minecraft!\\nTips\\nThis chair can take about 30 seconds to a minute to build if you have practiced it a few times and have all the necessary materials.\\nDon't get frustrated if you can't get the trapdoors right the first few times. It takes practice, so if you need a break, just come back to it later.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Minecraft allows you to craft all manner of things. But making them actually useful and usable can be trickier. If you want to build a chair that \\\"works\\\" - one that you can actually sit on - it is doable once you know how.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure that you collect 3 trapdoors, 1 minecart, some rails, and a pickaxe of any type (optional).\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the three trapdoors in a box pattern so that the doors take on a chair-like formation.\", \"描述\": \"Leave the front side where you want your seat to be empty.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the two rails facing towards the spot where you want to sit.\", \"描述\": \"A basic diagram is below.\\n_ | | ^\\nThe rails would be faced in the direction the small arrow ( ^ ) is.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the minecart on the rail farthest away from your chair and push it into place.\", \"描述\": \"This can take a few attempts, so if at first you don't succeed, try, try again!\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Remove the rails, and voila!\", \"描述\": \"A working chair in Minecraft!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"This chair can take about 30 seconds to a minute to build if you have practiced it a few times and have all the necessary materials.\\n\", \"Don't get frustrated if you can't get the trapdoors right the first few times. It takes practice, so if you need a break, just come back to it later.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,264 |
How to Build a Cheap Gaming Computer
|
1. Steps
1-1. Pick a fast and cheap processor (CPU).
If your budget is below $1000 an AMD Ryzen processor, especially the 1600 or the 2700, will be your best value. Options are also available by Intel that usually carry more raw performance, but come with a larger price tag, like the i7 8700K. If you want to build a PC for cheaper (sub $350), you want to look for a CPU with a powerful integrated GPU (APU). The best APU currently available is the AMD Ryzen 3 2400G.
1-2. Pick a good video/graphics card.
You'll want a good video card. It is recommended for newer games to operate well. The rule of thumb is that the graphics card takes up one third of the budget. It is worth to take a look at used graphics cards in a very tight budget, especially the models GTX 960, GTX 970 and GTX 1050. For any larger budget any new graphics card by AMD or NVIDIA will suffice. The best value is carried by the series AMD RX 5xx and the GTX 1660Ti.
1-3. Pick a case that you can afford.
You'll want to save as much room as you can on the case. Just make sure that the case has enough room for air-ventilation to prevent overheating. Hardware reviewers offer long lists that compare PC cases in component temperature and do in-depth reviews.
1-4. Pick a large and fast storage drive.
Storage comes in two types: hard drive (HDD) and solid state (SSD) storage. HDDs use mechanical components which makes them cheaper, but also slower. SSDs are a newer technology which is very fast due to being free of moving parts. SSDs can be 2x to 50x as expensive as a HDD. Make sure your mainboard is compatible to the drive: Many SSDs and almost all HDDs come with the common SATA connector, while some high-end SSDs use the M.2 connector. Usually a 1 TB 7200RPM hard drive is enough to store many games, but if the budget allows for it, you should include a small, 120GB-256GB SSD for your operating system and your favourite games to load faster.
1-5. Pick a compatible motherboard.
ASUS, Gigabyte, EVGA and plenty more are out there. Just make sure it is fully compatible with your CPU and video card. Preferrably, pick a motherboard with 4 RAM slots, ATX form factor and many USB ports. More expensive mainboards do not measurably increase performance, they provide you with advanced features.
1-6. Pick enough RAM.
Nowadays 8GB should be seen as a minimum for any modern game, with few games requiring 16 GB of RAM. If you buy an APU, RAM speed and latency is especially important. 3000MHz CL16 (lower CL/more MHz is better) is a good value option. "Dual-Rank" kits that split memory on two modules increase performance at the expense of cost.
1-7. Pick a speaker.
Unless you are in need of a 7.1 Surround Sound system, go for a budget speaker. 2.1, 2 satellite speakers with one sub-woofer will give you good sounds. Many gamers use headsets for their integrated microphone.
1-8. Choose a monitor.
Unless you are in need of a cinema, go for a 24" 1080p monitor. Highly competitive games like CS:GO might profit from a high refreshrate 144Hz monitor, meaning the monitor can reproduce higher detail in moving objects. You should check reviews to find out if your graphics card is fast enough for this to make a difference.
1-9. Buy a keyboard and mouse.
Unless you are in need of super-high-end gaming inputs, go for a budget mouse and keyboard.
1-10. Make sure you get a power supply that corresponds with your needs.
Check How to Buy a Power Supply for an explanation.
Tips
Having a friend that knows his/her way around computers will be really helpful.
You can ask tips from computer forums on the internet.
You can ask tips from local computer shops.
Warnings
When putting your system together, always ground yourself to prevent electrostatic charges from reaching the components or it will damage the parts (or you).
You can use an electrostatic wristband.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Pick a fast and cheap processor (CPU).\\nIf your budget is below $1000 an AMD Ryzen processor, especially the 1600 or the 2700, will be your best value. Options are also available by Intel that usually carry more raw performance, but come with a larger price tag, like the i7 8700K. If you want to build a PC for cheaper (sub $350), you want to look for a CPU with a powerful integrated GPU (APU). The best APU currently available is the AMD Ryzen 3 2400G.\\n1-2. Pick a good video/graphics card.\\nYou'll want a good video card. It is recommended for newer games to operate well. The rule of thumb is that the graphics card takes up one third of the budget. It is worth to take a look at used graphics cards in a very tight budget, especially the models GTX 960, GTX 970 and GTX 1050. For any larger budget any new graphics card by AMD or NVIDIA will suffice. The best value is carried by the series AMD RX 5xx and the GTX 1660Ti.\\n1-3. Pick a case that you can afford.\\nYou'll want to save as much room as you can on the case. Just make sure that the case has enough room for air-ventilation to prevent overheating. Hardware reviewers offer long lists that compare PC cases in component temperature and do in-depth reviews.\\n1-4. Pick a large and fast storage drive.\\nStorage comes in two types: hard drive (HDD) and solid state (SSD) storage. HDDs use mechanical components which makes them cheaper, but also slower. SSDs are a newer technology which is very fast due to being free of moving parts. SSDs can be 2x to 50x as expensive as a HDD. Make sure your mainboard is compatible to the drive: Many SSDs and almost all HDDs come with the common SATA connector, while some high-end SSDs use the M.2 connector. Usually a 1 TB 7200RPM hard drive is enough to store many games, but if the budget allows for it, you should include a small, 120GB-256GB SSD for your operating system and your favourite games to load faster.\\n1-5. Pick a compatible motherboard.\\nASUS, Gigabyte, EVGA and plenty more are out there. Just make sure it is fully compatible with your CPU and video card. Preferrably, pick a motherboard with 4 RAM slots, ATX form factor and many USB ports. More expensive mainboards do not measurably increase performance, they provide you with advanced features.\\n1-6. Pick enough RAM.\\nNowadays 8GB should be seen as a minimum for any modern game, with few games requiring 16 GB of RAM. If you buy an APU, RAM speed and latency is especially important. 3000MHz CL16 (lower CL/more MHz is better) is a good value option. \\\"Dual-Rank\\\" kits that split memory on two modules increase performance at the expense of cost.\\n1-7. Pick a speaker.\\nUnless you are in need of a 7.1 Surround Sound system, go for a budget speaker. 2.1, 2 satellite speakers with one sub-woofer will give you good sounds. Many gamers use headsets for their integrated microphone.\\n1-8. Choose a monitor.\\nUnless you are in need of a cinema, go for a 24\\\" 1080p monitor. Highly competitive games like CS:GO might profit from a high refreshrate 144Hz monitor, meaning the monitor can reproduce higher detail in moving objects. You should check reviews to find out if your graphics card is fast enough for this to make a difference.\\n1-9. Buy a keyboard and mouse.\\nUnless you are in need of super-high-end gaming inputs, go for a budget mouse and keyboard.\\n1-10. Make sure you get a power supply that corresponds with your needs.\\nCheck How to Buy a Power Supply for an explanation.\\nTips\\nHaving a friend that knows his/her way around computers will be really helpful.\\nYou can ask tips from computer forums on the internet.\\nYou can ask tips from local computer shops.\\nWarnings\\nWhen putting your system together, always ground yourself to prevent electrostatic charges from reaching the components or it will damage the parts (or you).\\nYou can use an electrostatic wristband.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Tired of lag and delays on your old computer while playing games? Try these steps to build a cheap gaming PC.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick a fast and cheap processor (CPU).\", \"描述\": \"If your budget is below $1000 an AMD Ryzen processor, especially the 1600 or the 2700, will be your best value. Options are also available by Intel that usually carry more raw performance, but come with a larger price tag, like the i7 8700K. If you want to build a PC for cheaper (sub $350), you want to look for a CPU with a powerful integrated GPU (APU). The best APU currently available is the AMD Ryzen 3 2400G.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick a good video/graphics card.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want a good video card. It is recommended for newer games to operate well. The rule of thumb is that the graphics card takes up one third of the budget. It is worth to take a look at used graphics cards in a very tight budget, especially the models GTX 960, GTX 970 and GTX 1050. For any larger budget any new graphics card by AMD or NVIDIA will suffice. The best value is carried by the series AMD RX 5xx and the GTX 1660Ti.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pick a case that you can afford.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want to save as much room as you can on the case. Just make sure that the case has enough room for air-ventilation to prevent overheating. Hardware reviewers offer long lists that compare PC cases in component temperature and do in-depth reviews.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pick a large and fast storage drive.\", \"描述\": \"Storage comes in two types: hard drive (HDD) and solid state (SSD) storage. HDDs use mechanical components which makes them cheaper, but also slower. SSDs are a newer technology which is very fast due to being free of moving parts. SSDs can be 2x to 50x as expensive as a HDD. Make sure your mainboard is compatible to the drive: Many SSDs and almost all HDDs come with the common SATA connector, while some high-end SSDs use the M.2 connector. Usually a 1 TB 7200RPM hard drive is enough to store many games, but if the budget allows for it, you should include a small, 120GB-256GB SSD for your operating system and your favourite games to load faster.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pick a compatible motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"ASUS, Gigabyte, EVGA and plenty more are out there. Just make sure it is fully compatible with your CPU and video card. Preferrably, pick a motherboard with 4 RAM slots, ATX form factor and many USB ports. More expensive mainboards do not measurably increase performance, they provide you with advanced features.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pick enough RAM.\", \"描述\": \"Nowadays 8GB should be seen as a minimum for any modern game, with few games requiring 16 GB of RAM. If you buy an APU, RAM speed and latency is especially important. 3000MHz CL16 (lower CL/more MHz is better) is a good value option. \\\"Dual-Rank\\\" kits that split memory on two modules increase performance at the expense of cost.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Pick a speaker.\", \"描述\": \"Unless you are in need of a 7.1 Surround Sound system, go for a budget speaker. 2.1, 2 satellite speakers with one sub-woofer will give you good sounds. Many gamers use headsets for their integrated microphone.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Choose a monitor.\", \"描述\": \"Unless you are in need of a cinema, go for a 24\\\" 1080p monitor. Highly competitive games like CS:GO might profit from a high refreshrate 144Hz monitor, meaning the monitor can reproduce higher detail in moving objects. You should check reviews to find out if your graphics card is fast enough for this to make a difference.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Buy a keyboard and mouse.\", \"描述\": \"Unless you are in need of super-high-end gaming inputs, go for a budget mouse and keyboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Make sure you get a power supply that corresponds with your needs.\", \"描述\": \"Check How to Buy a Power Supply for an explanation.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Having a friend that knows his/her way around computers will be really helpful.\\n\", \"You can ask tips from computer forums on the internet.\\n\", \"You can ask tips from local computer shops.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"When putting your system together, always ground yourself to prevent electrostatic charges from reaching the components or it will damage the parts (or you).\\nYou can use an electrostatic wristband.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,265 |
How to Build a Cheap PC
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1. Determining Your Needs
Come up with a rough idea of the kind of performance you want from your machine.
The easiest way to do that is to split builds it up into general categories:
Low Performance: If you’re looking for a simple PC for web browsing, email checking, or video watching, a low-performance machine is probably the way to go. These are small, very low budget, don’t draw a lot of power, and are usually pretty quiet (obviously you won't need much performance for that activity). Home theater PCs and simple office work PCs fit into this category. Such machines range from $200 to $500.
Mid Performance: This is a great option for the majority of users, especially since you can stretch the machine’s power and your budget to fit almost any scenario. Such machines will sit in a smaller case, with enough power to play some casual games and run multiple programs at once. If you’re looking for a multipurpose computer that won’t break the bank, this is where you want to go. Such machines can vary quite a bit in price, but in general, they range from $500 to $800.
High Performance: These will stretch your budget to its end. Users doing more resource-intensive tasks: converting and editing video, playing latest games at low to mid settings, making 3D art, running operating systems in virtual machines will need more performance. These also use a generous amount of electricity. Typically such a machine may cost anywhere from $800 to $1200.
2. Choosing Parts
2-1. Do specific research on the parts you need.
Even with the following steps, this process is going to be overwhelming—especially if you don’t keep up with all the latest hardware news (as many of us don’t). Note that these descriptions are bound to become outdated as time goes on, so in addition to reading the information below, check out some pre-built systems comparable to what you want to build. That’ll help you figure out what kind of processor applies to mid-range builds, how much RAM you’d find in a high-end build, and so on.
You should also consider the OS you want to run, and the programs you’ll be using, and check their recommended system requirements. Make sure you avoid bottlenecks, where one component can’t reach its full potential because another part is too slow. There will be a few reputable brands mentioned in each category, but we recommend reading up on when brand really matters (and when it doesn’t) so you don’t fall into advertising trap.
2-2. Pick a processor.
The Processor (CPU) is the “brain” of your computer. Better CPUs can perform more tasks at once, and perform them faster.The high performance models are only really crucial if you’re performing intensive tasks. It’s also one of the most expensive parts of a machine.Hence picking the “right” processor is important, you should do some research so you don’t want to end up wasting money. Lets start with the basics:
Consider clock speed and number of cores. A processor’s clock speed determines how many instructions one core can carry out in one second. Thus, higher clock speed means your computer carries out instructions faster, while more cores means it can carry out more sets of instructions at one time. Some programs can utilize multiple cores at once, making them extremely efficient with multi-core CPUs, but also multitask well since they can carry out multiple sets of instructions simultaneously. Low performance machines probably will need a dual/quad-core processors, mid-range builds will probably want quad/six-core processors, and high-powered machines will definitely want six/eight-core or above.
Look at clock speed to determine how fast that processor is. For gaming, clock speed is more important than number of cores, since most games are not designed to use more than one or two cores (though this is starting to change). Assuming you never do any CPU-intensive tasks, a dual-core is probably the highest you need—no hyper-threading needed. If you’re converting video or gaming, the program you use might support multiple cores, in which case a higher number of cores is more important.
Those are two basics, but not the only ones, and you don’t want to rely on them alone. It's recommended to look at benchmarks for the processors you’re interested in, to get an idea of how they compare.
Be sure to look for other features you may need, too. If you aren’t gaming or editing video, you’ll want to make sure your CPU supports integrated graphics.
Brands to Watch For: AMD and Intel are the two CPU heavyweights. Although Intel has received more of the market share in past years, AMD's Ryzen processors are just as good, and simply an alternative to Intel's.
2-3. Pick a motherboard.
The motherboard connects all the other components to one another. It is the physical base upon which you build everything else. It contains a lot of your machine’s core features, like the number of USB ports, the number of expansion cards you can put in (such as graphics card, etc), and also partially determines how big your computer size will be. Which motherboard you pick will depend on whether you build a low, medium, or high performance machine. As you look at motherboards, you’ll want to pay attention to quite a few things. Here are some of the more important features:
Socket Type: Your socket type (such as AMD’s AM4 socket, or Intel’s LGA 1151, etc) determines which processors you can use with that board. So, if you’ve already narrowed down the kind of processor you want, this is a good first step to narrowing down your motherboard. Look for a model with a socket type that matches your processor to ensure that the two are compatible.
Size: Motherboards generally come in three sizes: Mini ITX, Micro ATX, and full ATX. The more advanced features you need, the larger the motherboard will need to be, which will also determine the size of your case.
Number and Types of External Ports: Look at the ports available on the motherboard. Do you need a lot of USB ports? You’ll either want a motherboard that has them or enough PCI slots to support extra USB adapters. Do you need HDMI out? If you aren’t using a graphics card, make sure your motherboard has the right video output for your monitor. How many USB 3.0 ports do you want? Some have more than others. If you’re set on a motherboard that doesn’t have a feature you need, you can add most with expansion cards, but life is always easier if the motherboard has them built in.
Amount of Supported RAM: If you plan on having a lot of RAM in your machine, you’ll need a motherboard that supports it. Look at how many slots your board has, and how much RAM it allows for.
Integrated Graphics: If all you’re going to do is browse the web, use Microsoft Office, and perform other simple tasks, you may be better off choosing a motherboard with integrated graphics. You only need to shell out for a separate graphics card if you’re doing graphics-intensive activities such as playing video games. If you’re getting a separate graphics card, then don't choose a motherboard with integrated graphics as this may save some cost.
Number of SATA Ports: This determines how many internal hard drives and optical drives you can have. For most builds, this is only really a concern if you plan on having a lot of drives in your computer (like if you’re building a server or a NAS)..
Number of PCI Slots: You can only have as many expansion cards as you have PCI slots, so if you want a dedicated video card (or two), extra USB ports, extra LAN ports, a Wi-Fi adapter, or other expansion cards, you need to make sure your motherboard has enough of them.
Chipset: Your motherboard’s chipset determines a lot of the more advanced features it has. Some chipsets support overclocking, some do not. Some support SLI and Crossfire (using multiple video cards in tandem), some do not. Others support SSD caching. Others are better for turning into Hackintoshes. If you didn’t understand any of the aforementioned terms, you probably don’t need to pay too close attention to this—but if you want certain advanced features, chipsets will narrow your selection considerably.
Generally, the more of these features you require on the motherboard, the larger in size and price they become, so keep that in mind.
Brands to Watch For: ASUS, GIGABYTE, and MSI are probably the biggest names in motherboards. However, BIOSTAR and ASRock are well known for good budget boards, if you’re trying to keep the cost down.
2-4. Choose your power supply.
The power supply (or PSU) directs electricity to the other components in your machine. Generally speaking, if you have a high performance computer with a fast processor, a graphics card, and a few drives, you’ll need a higher wattage power supply than you would if you were building a low-end PC. This is probably the last component you’ll shop for, once you’ve nailed down your other parts and how much electricity they’ll require (some cases come with their own PSU). The power supply is actually one of the most important choices in your build. This is not an area you want to skimp. Reviews on the net are rarely useful. The best you can do is buy from a good brand (see below) and look for these features:
Wattage: Obviously, if you have a low performance machine, you’ll need fewer watts to power it than you would a high performance machine. Generally, give yourself 100 more watts than what you need, in case you end up upgrading the computer or using that power supply in a later build.
Efficiency: Most units will have a percentage value that denotes how efficient they are. For example, an “80 plus certified” 400W PSU will actually pull something like 500W from your wall. So look for something with a high efficiency, as they’ll run cooler (but they probably won’t save you a ton of money).
Cable Types: Try to look for a “modular” power supply if you can. This means that the cables come detached from the power supply, so you can use only the ones you need and not have the others wasting space in your case. Also make sure it comes with long cables, since cables that are too short can make your life difficult.
Brands to Watch For: This is one area where you don’t want to be thrifty. It’s hard to keep track of all the brands out there, but quality manufacturers include Corsair, Enermax, Enhance, EVGA, and Rosewill. Spend the extra $20 if given the choice; you don’t want to end up skimping and frying a $1000 machine in the process.
Note: Many cases actually come with power supplies, so if yours does, you don’t necessarily need to buy one separately. That said, the power supplies you’ll buy separately are usually better than the ones that come with cases, but it’s up to you. It’s just something to watch for when you’re shopping for these two parts.
2-5. Consider RAM.
Random Access Memory (or RAM for short) stores data your computer needs quick access to. The size determines how fast your programs run, and help you run more programs at one time. Thus, if you run a lot of programs at once, you’ll want a computer with more RAM. If you use virtual machines, you’ll want higher RAM, since it has to run its own programs in addition to yours. RAM seems simple, but you need to make sure it’s compatible with your motherboard. When looking at RAM, think about:
Type of Computer: Since most system now are 64 bit, some older model CPU's are 32 bit, especially if you are buying second hand parts. You must know that 32 bit CPU's can only handle 4 GB of RAM.
Amount of RAM: At the time of this writing, 4-16 GB seems to be the average for a normal machine. If you’re running virtual machines or using other RAM-hungry apps, you might want 16 GB, but most machines should be fine with around 8 GB. Keep in mind that RAM is easy to upgrade, and if your motherboard has four slots, you can always get two sticks now and add two more sticks later. There’s no need to get a ton of RAM now in the name of “future-proofing”.
Channels: Your motherboard will support either dual, triple, or quad channel RAM. This decides how many sticks of RAM you get. If you have a dual channel motherboard, you’ll want to buy RAM in sets of two—for example, two 2GB sticks for a total of 4GB (or four 1GB sticks). Triple channel motherboards take RAM in sets of three, and quad channel is most optimal with a set of four or eight sticks.
Type: Most RAM nowadays is “DDR4”, though DDR5 and DDR5X is starting to pop up in graphics cards. You shouldn’t have to worry about this too much. Just check your motherboard’s spec list to find out what type of RAM it supports and buy accordingly.
Speed: Your motherboard will support a number of different RAM speeds (e.g., “800/1066/1333”). When you buy your RAM, it will have one of these numbers attached to it. RAM speed traditionally doesn’t make a huge difference, but it’s starting to become more useful. Buy what you can afford, and make sure your motherboard supports it.
Brands to Watch For: You won’t find a huge difference between brands. Popular brands include Crucial, Corsair, Kingston, PNY, OCZ, G.Skill, Mushkin, and Patriot. Again, reading reviews of specific sticks of RAM can be very helpful.
2-6. Get a graphics card (optional).
This is a processor specifically designed to handle graphics. Some processors come with a GPU already integrated, which is enough to manage light productivity but not enough for playing the latest 3D games. For those, you’ll need a dedicated graphics card and choosing graphics card is one of the hardest parts of the process. If all you need is something that can play HD video, you don’t need to go too crazy—find a well-reviewed card under $100 and call it a day (or just go with integrated graphics). However, if you’re gaming, you have a lot more to think about.
Instead of looking at the specs, it’s usually easier to just read reviews and look at gaming benchmarks. Passmark ranks cards by straight-up performance tests, and Anandtech benchmarks many cards using real-world gaming situations. Think about your budget for a video card, then try to find the best performing card in that price range.
Some manufacturers also factory overclock their cards, which gives them a performance edge over other manufacturer’s version of the same card, so be on the lookout for those. Also be on the lookout for versions with different levels of VRAM. Higher VRAM cards are useful for high resolution or multiple monitor, but are more expensive.
Brands to Watch For: The two main chipset manufacturers are NVIDIA and AMD. The battle between them both is pretty close with each card that comes out. Unless you’re using Linux (for which NVIDIA has better support), worry more about the individual cards than the chipset manufacturer. Go with whatever gives you the best cost to performance ratio at your price point.
When it comes to the card manufacturers themselves, you have a few to choose from. Look for brands with good cooling and good customer support—XFX and EVGA both have pretty fantastic warranties on most of their cards, which is why they’re two of the most popular manufacturers around. MSI tends to have very good cooling. Other popular brands include ASUS, ZOTAC, and Sapphire.
2-7. Pick your storage.
Your storage device stores all of your data, ranging from your operating system to your documents, music, and movies. The type of storage you choose will be determined mainly by how much data you need to store, but certain types of storage can also affect your computer’s speed. When it comes to specs, there are a few things you want to look for in your drives:
Type: The two most common choices for PC storage are (hard disk drives) and (solid state drives)). The main physical difference here is the mechanism. A HDD contains moving parts, while a SSD does not (hence the name 'solid state'). A SSD is typically much faster than a HDD, and is therefore the go to choice for storing files that will need to be accessed frequently and quickly. Usually, a PC builder will install their operating system on a SSD, as this will allow the computer to both boot and run much faster. HDDs are typically used for long-term data storage that won't need to be accessed regularly, and are commonly paired with an SSD. The benefits of an SSD do come with a price tag though, as these drives are usually much more expensive than their equivalent HDD.
There are also different types of SSDs, with the most common being a SATA SSD. These are usually a credit-card sized drive and many cases include storage options specifically for this type of drive. Another common option is an M.2 SSD, a small drive similar to a stick of RAM (although shorter) that slots directly into many motherboards
Size: Obviously, you want enough space on your hard drive to hold all your data, with room for expansion. Hard drives are pretty cheap and easy to upgrade, so you can always add more later if you’re on a budget. SSDs are more expensive, although a low-size SSD can be paired with a HDD to increase the speed of the OS (stored on the SSD), while still keeping costs low.
Speed: The faster your hard drive is, the faster your computer will boot, launch programs, and open files. These days, you get a 7200 RPM HDD for a relatively cheap price. SSDs are more expensive but offer much faster read/write speeds than a hard drive
Brands to Watch For: Western Digital, Hitachi, Samsung, and Toshiba are all good choices.
2-8. Select an optical drive, if desired.
An optical drive, more commonly known as a CD or DVD drive, is what you’ll use to read CDs, DVDs, and even Blu-Ray discs. These drives are becoming less and less common in computers today, as new technologies (such as USBs) have revolutionised data transfer.
If you’re buying a CD or DVD drive, you probably won’t find a ton of difference between the different models. Most burn discs at around the same speeds. If you’re looking at Blu-Ray drives and Blu-Ray burners, though, pay attention to the read and write speeds. The higher the read speeds, the faster you can rip a Blu-Ray disc, and the faster the write speed on a burner, the faster you can burn a Blu-Ray disc. Obviously, you’ll have to pay more for higher speeds.
Brands to Watch For: It doesn’t make a huge difference who you go with here. Lite-On, Samsung, Sony, and LG are all great manufacturers and the prices should be pretty much the same.
2-9. Choose a case.
The case holds all of your computer’s parts together. It is less about features of how your computer runs and more about features that affect you and your home—that is, how quiet it is, how well it cools your components, how big it is, and how it looks. Still, it’s an important consideration that is dependent on your other choices, so you might want to think about what you want in terms of a case before moving on to the shopping step (some cases come with their own PSU which increase their overall cost, also you might want to check their power rating Watts and how much you require). Your case may not seem like a super important part of your build, but it’s about more than looks. A good case will be easier to build in, last you a long time, and keep your machine cool. Here’s what you’ll need to look for:
Size: Cases come in a number of shapes and sizes, and what size case you choose should match the kind of motherboard you’re buying. If you chose a Mini-ITX motherboard, then a Mini-ITX Tower or Mini-ITX Desktop box is for you. A Micro ATX mini tower is the size you’ll find in most pre-built computers, so know that mid and full towers are probably bigger than what you’re used to.
Airflow: This is something you’ll have to look for in user reviews. Every case is a little different, and the better your fans are placed, the better airflow you’ll have inside (which will keep your computer from overheating). Look for cases with lots of air vents, especially on the front, to allow heat to escape your computer easily and for cool air to be drawn in.
Noise: While you want good airflow, some fans are particularly loud, which can be annoying to some people. If you want your computer to stay relatively quiet, check the user reviews and see what people say about the case’s loudness.
Number of Drive Bays: If you need more than just a hard drive an optical drive, count the number of drive bays on your case and make sure you have enough. Keep in mind other things, like card readers, will take up drive bays as well. Internal 3.5” drive bays are for hard drives, external 3.5” drive bays are for card readers, and external 5.25” drives are for optical drives (and other stuff).
Ports on the Front: Almost every case you buy will have a number of ports on the front, which usually include a few USB ports, a headphone jack, and a microphone jack. If you want easy access to USB 3.0, for example, you’ll want to make sure it’s on the front of your case.
Cable Management: As you build, you’ll realize there are a lot of cables inside a computer. Unfortunately, if you just leave them hanging where they fall, they’ll block a lot of air from flowing correctly through the case, so you want to organize them as best you can. Some cases have built-in holes through which you can route cables, while some leave you to figure it out yourself with zip ties. The former is, obviously, a lot less work, so see what user reviews say about cable management options.
Keep in mind that a case is something you can use for multiple builds down the road. You don’t need to buy a new case every time you build a computer. Get a quality one now and it should last many builds into the future.
Brands to Watch for: Corsair, NZXT, Antec, and Cooler Master both make some of the best cases on the market. Thermaltake, Rosewill, Fractal Design,and Silverstone are also trusted manufacturers.
2-10. Choose peripherals.
A very good low priced keyboard and mouse can easily be obtained for your daily needs. But if your computer usage is high, then it may be worth it to spend more on an ergonomically good mouse and keyboard to prevent wrist pain or save endless clicks on the scroll wheel. You'll also need a monitor, so consider your use case when selecting features (refresh rate, resolution etc.) See this article for details.
3. Assembling the PC
3-1. Don't be too daunted.
The process of assembling your own PC is actually very simple in contrast to most people’s expectations. Compared to our researching part section, actual assembly is a much simpler task. Most users are often overwhelmed at the idea of assembling their own PC from scratch. However, over the years, the desktop PC industry has become quite standardized. It’s almost impossible these days to install the individual pieces, cables and connectors in the wrong location. The guide below can be followed step by step to achieve your goal.
3-2. Gather your tools.
You'll need:
Phillips Head Screwdriver: The only real tool you will need apart from your hands to complete the build successfully. A magnetic screwdriver is always helpful for getting screws in tricky positions and to ensure you don’t drop one in an annoying location to reach.
Cable Ties (optional): Very often cable ties are bundled in with the computer case accessories with the screws. You may want to pick up a pack for cheap if you know your case does not and want a clean cable managed build. An alternative and less permanent solution to this is to reuse twist ties which are often used in component packaging to hold cables together.
3-3. Take precautions before you start.
Static electricity has the potential to damage delicate and expensive components. A very common question is what precautions can be taken and which are necessary. The vast majority of experienced PC builders use grounded wrist straps and similar solutions. They also take basic precautions such as touching a grounded object (for instance the metal case of a plugged in appliance).
A method some builders use is to plug their PSU in (without turning it on) and touch it every so often to discharge static. Also, don’t build on carpet and avoid wearing socks or loose fitting clothing.
Parts being broken on arrival or breaking in use is a very rare occurrence, however it definitely can happen. For this reason, you will want to keep all packaging and boxes for your parts for the length of their warranties (which can be a very long time depending on the component).
Since motherboards are the first thing to be touched and used, a good trick is to place the board on the card box in which it was packed in. This avoids physical damage to the board itself.
3-4. Install the CPU.
Take the motherboard out of its protective bag and place it on top of its box (a perfect non-conductive workspace which is the right size to fit the motherboard on). Do not place the motherboard on the anti-static bag it was in, as this is not a good work surface and you are better off just using the box as the bag only offers protection when parts are inside of it.
Unbox your CPU at this stage and remove it from the protective cover.
Lift the CPU retention bracket lever to reveal the socket and its pins. These are incredibly delicate and easy to bend (which motherboard manufacturers will not accept an RMA for), so be very careful when working around the socket.
All CPUs have an arrow in one corner corresponding to an arrow printed on or around a corner of the motherboard CPU socket to indicate which way round it fits. In addition to this, Intel CPUs also have notched sides on the upper left and right edges which match up with the shape of the socket. Gently lower the CPU into the socket in the correct position. You should do this so that the CPU stays as horizontal as you can and makes contact with all pins as close to the same time as possible, however there is obviously some room for error. No force needs to be applied at this stage as this is the job of the retention bracket - the CPU should just fit neatly in its place.
Gently lower the bracket over the CPU, sliding it onto the raised pillar on the motherboard.
Push down the retention bracket arm and hook it back under the latch where it was originally. This may take some force, and may even cause some rather worrying noises, however if you have placed the CPU in the correct position in the socket no harm will be done and this process ensures that the CPU is in proper contact with the socket. If you are unsure you can watch detailed video guides to check that you are doing the right thing and applying a normal amount of force.
The protective cover will pop off as you lower the lever. Be sure to keep this in a safe place, as you will need this if you have to send your motherboard back to the manufacturer to protect the socket during shipping. Your CPU is now installed into the motherboard.
3-5. Install the CPU cooler.
If you are using an Intel/AMD stock cooler (one which is bundled in the box with the CPU) remove it from the packaging and place the pins in the corners through the holes surrounding the CPU socket (ensuring that the pins at the corners are rotated to an unlocked position by rotating the top of them in the direction of the arrows). After this, turn the top of the pins in the opposite direction to that shown by the arrows to lock it in place. You can check that it is seated correctly by attempting to gently twist it - there should not be any significant movement. Be sure to arrange the fan cable so it doesn’t interfere with the spinning of the fan.
Plug the 4-pin PWM fan connector on the end of the wire coming from your CPU fan into the CPU_FAN header on your motherboard at this stage. Watch that the cable isn’t in the way of the fan blade.
3-6. Install the RAM.
Read the motherboard manual to find out which slots you should be using for the number of sticks of RAM you have (they are usually color coded and so can be easily referenced). First, pull back the clips on either side of the RAM slots you are going to use.
Notice the clear off-centre notch at a point both on the slot and the RAM stick to indicate which way round the sticks should be placed and ensure they can only be placed one way.
Place each RAM stick in a slot and push down evenly on both sides until the clips engage.
3-7. Install the motherboard into the PC case.
Screws and other accessories which are bundled with the case. Find the standoffs for your case. Do not forget the standoffs. Screw the standoffs into the motherboard tray and the screws into that to offset the motherboard from the case and prevent it from shorting out. These sit between your motherboard and the screw in order to stop the motherboard from touching the case and are vitally important. Screwing the standoffs into the case in the locations where your motherboard has a matching hole for a screw.
Install the motherboard I/O shield. This is a metal panel which goes in your motherboard I/O connectors in the cutout at the back of the case. Ensure this is the correct way round. Place the metal panel into the gap at the back of the case and push firmly around the corners and outside edges until it clicks to secure it.
Take the motherboard and place it in the case. It is best to lie the case on its side as you do this. Lower the motherboard into place. Line up the connectors with the gaps in the I/O panel and push the connectors into the panel before lowering it all the way onto the standoffs. You may need to apply some pressure in the direction of the back of the case to line up the screw holes with the standoffs - this is normal.
3-8. Start on proper cable management.
Connect any 3 pin fan headers from case fans to 3 or 4 pin fan headers on the motherboard. See the motherboard manual if you can't find their location.
A first build can be tempting to not bother to manage cables and that you will 'sort it out another time' but that way it takes more work later or never gets done - so do it now. It ensures that cables do not get in the way, gather dust or obstruct airflow.
3-9. Install a graphics card (optional).
Next we can move on to the installation of the graphics card. Remove the PCIe blanking plates corresponding to the slot on the case you will be placing your graphics card in. Again, your motherboard manual will assist you in making a decision about which slot to use, but usually you should use the topmost PCIe x16 slot for your graphics card (and you will need to take off another below when you are using a usual dual graphics card).
Press back the clip at the edge of the slot similarly to the RAM slots ready for you to insert the graphics card. Lower the card into position and push down evenly at both ends until the clip engages.
Screw the graphics card in to secure it in place - the graphics card will have holes in it similarly to those on the blanking plates allowing you to screw the card with case.
3-10. Focus on cable management.
Now things get more fiddly as we begin cabling. First sort out front panel connections before moving on to installing the power supply within the case to keep clutter to a minimum.
Focus on the front panel header connections which will be separate very small wires, with labels on each for switches and LEDs. Pass them through a case cutout to the front of the build (will be hiding cables as much as possible behind the motherboard tray where they are out of sight and do not disrupt airflow).
Connect these cables to the motherboard. Use motherboard manual as each motherboard has a different arrangement of pins on their front panel header (which is why all the cables are separate rather than being bundled into one larger connector). Double check your positives and negatives on LED connections.
After this tedious job is over you will be pleased to know that all the other cables are relatively simple. If your case has front panel audio connections/USB ports the next job will be connecting the 'HD Audio' connector / Front USB connector to the respective header on the motherboard. Again use manual if you are not sure of location of connector.
With all the case connections dealt with we can now focus on a small amount of cable management before proceeding. Make use of cable ties to group cables together and pull the excess behind the motherboard tray.
3-11. Install the power supply.
Next we will be inserting the power supply. This simply slides into place above/underneath the motherboard - depending on case design - and will sit against the back of the case. Which way up you place the fan depends on your case and the airflow.
3-12. Connect Power Cables.
First take all the connectors straight through the large cutout in the case to the rear of the motherboard tray and pull through all the excess.
Place and connect the 20/24pin ATX power cable and the 4 or 8pin EPS power cable (which is commonly labelled 'CPU Power') back through the cutouts closest to their headers. The EPS power connector will be at the top of your motherboard near to processor and 20/24pin cable along the edge. In most cases there is a cutout in the upper left corner of the motherboard to route the 4 or 8pin EPS power cable through in order to reduce cable clutter.
Do not plug PCIe connectors into your EPS power connector. This may seem very obvious (8 pin PCIe is differently keyed to 8pin CPU power) but some people connecting a 6 pin PCIe power connector to their 4 pin PCIe power (with 2 pins hanging over the edge). If the number of pins does not match or the connector is impossible to insert for any cable due to keying, it is a safe bet that you are doing it wrong.
Route any required PCIe connectors for your graphics card through the motherboard backplate cutout closest to the graphics card. All PCIe power connectors on the graphics card must be filled by a cable in order to successfully power the card. 8 pin PCIe power connectors from the PSU are often designed to split into 6 pin and a 2 pin optional part - feel free to use just the 6 pin part if you have a graphics card with a 6 pin connector you need to fill leaving the other 2 pins (this step is optional as some low to mid-end graphics card do not require extra power connector and draw all needed power through the PCIe connectors). Connect these cables into the graphics card PCIe connectors which will be located at the side or end of the card.
3-13. Install storage..
Drives, including optical drives in the 5.25" bay, require two connectors - SATA data and SATA power. Both connectors are "L" shaped so you can take a look before connecting it to see the correct orientation. SATA power can require a moderate amount of pressure to plug into stiff connectors. First connect one end of the SATA data cable which will be supplied with your motherboard and/or drive to the drive, and the other to a SATA port on the motherboard. It will usually connect with a satisfying click as the clip engages.
Next, take a SATA power cable from your PSU and connect it to the SATA power connector on the drive (next to SATA data).
Consult your motherboard's manual for instructions on how to install an M.2 SSD, as this can vary from board to board.
3-14. Complete the final touches.
Now you are completely finished with building. Only problem is a lot of excess cabling at the rear side of the motherboard tray. Use cable tie points on the case to secure cables out of sight and route them in a channel along the edge of the tray.
After this, place the front and back panels back on the PC and you are ready to go. Enjoy your brand new PC!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Determining Your Needs\\nCome up with a rough idea of the kind of performance you want from your machine.\\nThe easiest way to do that is to split builds it up into general categories:\\n\\nLow Performance: If you’re looking for a simple PC for web browsing, email checking, or video watching, a low-performance machine is probably the way to go. These are small, very low budget, don’t draw a lot of power, and are usually pretty quiet (obviously you won't need much performance for that activity). Home theater PCs and simple office work PCs fit into this category. Such machines range from $200 to $500.\\nMid Performance: This is a great option for the majority of users, especially since you can stretch the machine’s power and your budget to fit almost any scenario. Such machines will sit in a smaller case, with enough power to play some casual games and run multiple programs at once. If you’re looking for a multipurpose computer that won’t break the bank, this is where you want to go. Such machines can vary quite a bit in price, but in general, they range from $500 to $800.\\nHigh Performance: These will stretch your budget to its end. Users doing more resource-intensive tasks: converting and editing video, playing latest games at low to mid settings, making 3D art, running operating systems in virtual machines will need more performance. These also use a generous amount of electricity. Typically such a machine may cost anywhere from $800 to $1200.\\n2. Choosing Parts\\n2-1. Do specific research on the parts you need.\\nEven with the following steps, this process is going to be overwhelming—especially if you don’t keep up with all the latest hardware news (as many of us don’t). Note that these descriptions are bound to become outdated as time goes on, so in addition to reading the information below, check out some pre-built systems comparable to what you want to build. That’ll help you figure out what kind of processor applies to mid-range builds, how much RAM you’d find in a high-end build, and so on.\\nYou should also consider the OS you want to run, and the programs you’ll be using, and check their recommended system requirements. Make sure you avoid bottlenecks, where one component can’t reach its full potential because another part is too slow. There will be a few reputable brands mentioned in each category, but we recommend reading up on when brand really matters (and when it doesn’t) so you don’t fall into advertising trap.\\n2-2. Pick a processor.\\nThe Processor (CPU) is the “brain” of your computer. Better CPUs can perform more tasks at once, and perform them faster.The high performance models are only really crucial if you’re performing intensive tasks. It’s also one of the most expensive parts of a machine.Hence picking the “right” processor is important, you should do some research so you don’t want to end up wasting money. Lets start with the basics:\\nConsider clock speed and number of cores. A processor’s clock speed determines how many instructions one core can carry out in one second. Thus, higher clock speed means your computer carries out instructions faster, while more cores means it can carry out more sets of instructions at one time. Some programs can utilize multiple cores at once, making them extremely efficient with multi-core CPUs, but also multitask well since they can carry out multiple sets of instructions simultaneously. Low performance machines probably will need a dual/quad-core processors, mid-range builds will probably want quad/six-core processors, and high-powered machines will definitely want six/eight-core or above.\\nLook at clock speed to determine how fast that processor is. For gaming, clock speed is more important than number of cores, since most games are not designed to use more than one or two cores (though this is starting to change). Assuming you never do any CPU-intensive tasks, a dual-core is probably the highest you need—no hyper-threading needed. If you’re converting video or gaming, the program you use might support multiple cores, in which case a higher number of cores is more important.\\nThose are two basics, but not the only ones, and you don’t want to rely on them alone. It's recommended to look at benchmarks for the processors you’re interested in, to get an idea of how they compare.\\nBe sure to look for other features you may need, too. If you aren’t gaming or editing video, you’ll want to make sure your CPU supports integrated graphics.\\nBrands to Watch For: AMD and Intel are the two CPU heavyweights. Although Intel has received more of the market share in past years, AMD's Ryzen processors are just as good, and simply an alternative to Intel's.\\n2-3. Pick a motherboard.\\nThe motherboard connects all the other components to one another. It is the physical base upon which you build everything else. It contains a lot of your machine’s core features, like the number of USB ports, the number of expansion cards you can put in (such as graphics card, etc), and also partially determines how big your computer size will be. Which motherboard you pick will depend on whether you build a low, medium, or high performance machine. As you look at motherboards, you’ll want to pay attention to quite a few things. Here are some of the more important features:\\n\\nSocket Type: Your socket type (such as AMD’s AM4 socket, or Intel’s LGA 1151, etc) determines which processors you can use with that board. So, if you’ve already narrowed down the kind of processor you want, this is a good first step to narrowing down your motherboard. Look for a model with a socket type that matches your processor to ensure that the two are compatible.\\nSize: Motherboards generally come in three sizes: Mini ITX, Micro ATX, and full ATX. The more advanced features you need, the larger the motherboard will need to be, which will also determine the size of your case.\\nNumber and Types of External Ports: Look at the ports available on the motherboard. Do you need a lot of USB ports? You’ll either want a motherboard that has them or enough PCI slots to support extra USB adapters. Do you need HDMI out? If you aren’t using a graphics card, make sure your motherboard has the right video output for your monitor. How many USB 3.0 ports do you want? Some have more than others. If you’re set on a motherboard that doesn’t have a feature you need, you can add most with expansion cards, but life is always easier if the motherboard has them built in.\\nAmount of Supported RAM: If you plan on having a lot of RAM in your machine, you’ll need a motherboard that supports it. Look at how many slots your board has, and how much RAM it allows for.\\nIntegrated Graphics: If all you’re going to do is browse the web, use Microsoft Office, and perform other simple tasks, you may be better off choosing a motherboard with integrated graphics. You only need to shell out for a separate graphics card if you’re doing graphics-intensive activities such as playing video games. If you’re getting a separate graphics card, then don't choose a motherboard with integrated graphics as this may save some cost.\\nNumber of SATA Ports: This determines how many internal hard drives and optical drives you can have. For most builds, this is only really a concern if you plan on having a lot of drives in your computer (like if you’re building a server or a NAS)..\\nNumber of PCI Slots: You can only have as many expansion cards as you have PCI slots, so if you want a dedicated video card (or two), extra USB ports, extra LAN ports, a Wi-Fi adapter, or other expansion cards, you need to make sure your motherboard has enough of them.\\nChipset: Your motherboard’s chipset determines a lot of the more advanced features it has. Some chipsets support overclocking, some do not. Some support SLI and Crossfire (using multiple video cards in tandem), some do not. Others support SSD caching. Others are better for turning into Hackintoshes. If you didn’t understand any of the aforementioned terms, you probably don’t need to pay too close attention to this—but if you want certain advanced features, chipsets will narrow your selection considerably.\\nGenerally, the more of these features you require on the motherboard, the larger in size and price they become, so keep that in mind.\\nBrands to Watch For: ASUS, GIGABYTE, and MSI are probably the biggest names in motherboards. However, BIOSTAR and ASRock are well known for good budget boards, if you’re trying to keep the cost down.\\n2-4. Choose your power supply.\\nThe power supply (or PSU) directs electricity to the other components in your machine. Generally speaking, if you have a high performance computer with a fast processor, a graphics card, and a few drives, you’ll need a higher wattage power supply than you would if you were building a low-end PC. This is probably the last component you’ll shop for, once you’ve nailed down your other parts and how much electricity they’ll require (some cases come with their own PSU). The power supply is actually one of the most important choices in your build. This is not an area you want to skimp. Reviews on the net are rarely useful. The best you can do is buy from a good brand (see below) and look for these features:\\nWattage: Obviously, if you have a low performance machine, you’ll need fewer watts to power it than you would a high performance machine. Generally, give yourself 100 more watts than what you need, in case you end up upgrading the computer or using that power supply in a later build.\\nEfficiency: Most units will have a percentage value that denotes how efficient they are. For example, an “80 plus certified” 400W PSU will actually pull something like 500W from your wall. So look for something with a high efficiency, as they’ll run cooler (but they probably won’t save you a ton of money).\\nCable Types: Try to look for a “modular” power supply if you can. This means that the cables come detached from the power supply, so you can use only the ones you need and not have the others wasting space in your case. Also make sure it comes with long cables, since cables that are too short can make your life difficult.\\nBrands to Watch For: This is one area where you don’t want to be thrifty. It’s hard to keep track of all the brands out there, but quality manufacturers include Corsair, Enermax, Enhance, EVGA, and Rosewill. Spend the extra $20 if given the choice; you don’t want to end up skimping and frying a $1000 machine in the process.\\nNote: Many cases actually come with power supplies, so if yours does, you don’t necessarily need to buy one separately. That said, the power supplies you’ll buy separately are usually better than the ones that come with cases, but it’s up to you. It’s just something to watch for when you’re shopping for these two parts.\\n2-5. Consider RAM.\\nRandom Access Memory (or RAM for short) stores data your computer needs quick access to. The size determines how fast your programs run, and help you run more programs at one time. Thus, if you run a lot of programs at once, you’ll want a computer with more RAM. If you use virtual machines, you’ll want higher RAM, since it has to run its own programs in addition to yours. RAM seems simple, but you need to make sure it’s compatible with your motherboard. When looking at RAM, think about:\\n\\nType of Computer: Since most system now are 64 bit, some older model CPU's are 32 bit, especially if you are buying second hand parts. You must know that 32 bit CPU's can only handle 4 GB of RAM.\\nAmount of RAM: At the time of this writing, 4-16 GB seems to be the average for a normal machine. If you’re running virtual machines or using other RAM-hungry apps, you might want 16 GB, but most machines should be fine with around 8 GB. Keep in mind that RAM is easy to upgrade, and if your motherboard has four slots, you can always get two sticks now and add two more sticks later. There’s no need to get a ton of RAM now in the name of “future-proofing”.\\nChannels: Your motherboard will support either dual, triple, or quad channel RAM. This decides how many sticks of RAM you get. If you have a dual channel motherboard, you’ll want to buy RAM in sets of two—for example, two 2GB sticks for a total of 4GB (or four 1GB sticks). Triple channel motherboards take RAM in sets of three, and quad channel is most optimal with a set of four or eight sticks.\\nType: Most RAM nowadays is “DDR4”, though DDR5 and DDR5X is starting to pop up in graphics cards. You shouldn’t have to worry about this too much. Just check your motherboard’s spec list to find out what type of RAM it supports and buy accordingly.\\nSpeed: Your motherboard will support a number of different RAM speeds (e.g., “800/1066/1333”). When you buy your RAM, it will have one of these numbers attached to it. RAM speed traditionally doesn’t make a huge difference, but it’s starting to become more useful. Buy what you can afford, and make sure your motherboard supports it.\\nBrands to Watch For: You won’t find a huge difference between brands. Popular brands include Crucial, Corsair, Kingston, PNY, OCZ, G.Skill, Mushkin, and Patriot. Again, reading reviews of specific sticks of RAM can be very helpful.\\n2-6. Get a graphics card (optional).\\nThis is a processor specifically designed to handle graphics. Some processors come with a GPU already integrated, which is enough to manage light productivity but not enough for playing the latest 3D games. For those, you’ll need a dedicated graphics card and choosing graphics card is one of the hardest parts of the process. If all you need is something that can play HD video, you don’t need to go too crazy—find a well-reviewed card under $100 and call it a day (or just go with integrated graphics). However, if you’re gaming, you have a lot more to think about.\\nInstead of looking at the specs, it’s usually easier to just read reviews and look at gaming benchmarks. Passmark ranks cards by straight-up performance tests, and Anandtech benchmarks many cards using real-world gaming situations. Think about your budget for a video card, then try to find the best performing card in that price range.\\nSome manufacturers also factory overclock their cards, which gives them a performance edge over other manufacturer’s version of the same card, so be on the lookout for those. Also be on the lookout for versions with different levels of VRAM. Higher VRAM cards are useful for high resolution or multiple monitor, but are more expensive.\\nBrands to Watch For: The two main chipset manufacturers are NVIDIA and AMD. The battle between them both is pretty close with each card that comes out. Unless you’re using Linux (for which NVIDIA has better support), worry more about the individual cards than the chipset manufacturer. Go with whatever gives you the best cost to performance ratio at your price point.\\nWhen it comes to the card manufacturers themselves, you have a few to choose from. Look for brands with good cooling and good customer support—XFX and EVGA both have pretty fantastic warranties on most of their cards, which is why they’re two of the most popular manufacturers around. MSI tends to have very good cooling. Other popular brands include ASUS, ZOTAC, and Sapphire.\\n2-7. Pick your storage.\\nYour storage device stores all of your data, ranging from your operating system to your documents, music, and movies. The type of storage you choose will be determined mainly by how much data you need to store, but certain types of storage can also affect your computer’s speed. When it comes to specs, there are a few things you want to look for in your drives:\\n\\nType: The two most common choices for PC storage are (hard disk drives) and (solid state drives)). The main physical difference here is the mechanism. A HDD contains moving parts, while a SSD does not (hence the name 'solid state'). A SSD is typically much faster than a HDD, and is therefore the go to choice for storing files that will need to be accessed frequently and quickly. Usually, a PC builder will install their operating system on a SSD, as this will allow the computer to both boot and run much faster. HDDs are typically used for long-term data storage that won't need to be accessed regularly, and are commonly paired with an SSD. The benefits of an SSD do come with a price tag though, as these drives are usually much more expensive than their equivalent HDD.\\nThere are also different types of SSDs, with the most common being a SATA SSD. These are usually a credit-card sized drive and many cases include storage options specifically for this type of drive. Another common option is an M.2 SSD, a small drive similar to a stick of RAM (although shorter) that slots directly into many motherboards\\n\\nSize: Obviously, you want enough space on your hard drive to hold all your data, with room for expansion. Hard drives are pretty cheap and easy to upgrade, so you can always add more later if you’re on a budget. SSDs are more expensive, although a low-size SSD can be paired with a HDD to increase the speed of the OS (stored on the SSD), while still keeping costs low.\\nSpeed: The faster your hard drive is, the faster your computer will boot, launch programs, and open files. These days, you get a 7200 RPM HDD for a relatively cheap price. SSDs are more expensive but offer much faster read/write speeds than a hard drive\\n\\nBrands to Watch For: Western Digital, Hitachi, Samsung, and Toshiba are all good choices.\\n2-8. Select an optical drive, if desired.\\nAn optical drive, more commonly known as a CD or DVD drive, is what you’ll use to read CDs, DVDs, and even Blu-Ray discs. These drives are becoming less and less common in computers today, as new technologies (such as USBs) have revolutionised data transfer.\\nIf you’re buying a CD or DVD drive, you probably won’t find a ton of difference between the different models. Most burn discs at around the same speeds. If you’re looking at Blu-Ray drives and Blu-Ray burners, though, pay attention to the read and write speeds. The higher the read speeds, the faster you can rip a Blu-Ray disc, and the faster the write speed on a burner, the faster you can burn a Blu-Ray disc. Obviously, you’ll have to pay more for higher speeds.\\nBrands to Watch For: It doesn’t make a huge difference who you go with here. Lite-On, Samsung, Sony, and LG are all great manufacturers and the prices should be pretty much the same.\\n2-9. Choose a case.\\nThe case holds all of your computer’s parts together. It is less about features of how your computer runs and more about features that affect you and your home—that is, how quiet it is, how well it cools your components, how big it is, and how it looks. Still, it’s an important consideration that is dependent on your other choices, so you might want to think about what you want in terms of a case before moving on to the shopping step (some cases come with their own PSU which increase their overall cost, also you might want to check their power rating Watts and how much you require). Your case may not seem like a super important part of your build, but it’s about more than looks. A good case will be easier to build in, last you a long time, and keep your machine cool. Here’s what you’ll need to look for:\\n\\nSize: Cases come in a number of shapes and sizes, and what size case you choose should match the kind of motherboard you’re buying. If you chose a Mini-ITX motherboard, then a Mini-ITX Tower or Mini-ITX Desktop box is for you. A Micro ATX mini tower is the size you’ll find in most pre-built computers, so know that mid and full towers are probably bigger than what you’re used to.\\nAirflow: This is something you’ll have to look for in user reviews. Every case is a little different, and the better your fans are placed, the better airflow you’ll have inside (which will keep your computer from overheating). Look for cases with lots of air vents, especially on the front, to allow heat to escape your computer easily and for cool air to be drawn in.\\nNoise: While you want good airflow, some fans are particularly loud, which can be annoying to some people. If you want your computer to stay relatively quiet, check the user reviews and see what people say about the case’s loudness.\\nNumber of Drive Bays: If you need more than just a hard drive an optical drive, count the number of drive bays on your case and make sure you have enough. Keep in mind other things, like card readers, will take up drive bays as well. Internal 3.5” drive bays are for hard drives, external 3.5” drive bays are for card readers, and external 5.25” drives are for optical drives (and other stuff).\\nPorts on the Front: Almost every case you buy will have a number of ports on the front, which usually include a few USB ports, a headphone jack, and a microphone jack. If you want easy access to USB 3.0, for example, you’ll want to make sure it’s on the front of your case.\\nCable Management: As you build, you’ll realize there are a lot of cables inside a computer. Unfortunately, if you just leave them hanging where they fall, they’ll block a lot of air from flowing correctly through the case, so you want to organize them as best you can. Some cases have built-in holes through which you can route cables, while some leave you to figure it out yourself with zip ties. The former is, obviously, a lot less work, so see what user reviews say about cable management options.\\nKeep in mind that a case is something you can use for multiple builds down the road. You don’t need to buy a new case every time you build a computer. Get a quality one now and it should last many builds into the future.\\nBrands to Watch for: Corsair, NZXT, Antec, and Cooler Master both make some of the best cases on the market. Thermaltake, Rosewill, Fractal Design,and Silverstone are also trusted manufacturers.\\n2-10. Choose peripherals.\\nA very good low priced keyboard and mouse can easily be obtained for your daily needs. But if your computer usage is high, then it may be worth it to spend more on an ergonomically good mouse and keyboard to prevent wrist pain or save endless clicks on the scroll wheel. You'll also need a monitor, so consider your use case when selecting features (refresh rate, resolution etc.) See this article for details.\\n3. Assembling the PC\\n3-1. Don't be too daunted.\\nThe process of assembling your own PC is actually very simple in contrast to most people’s expectations. Compared to our researching part section, actual assembly is a much simpler task. Most users are often overwhelmed at the idea of assembling their own PC from scratch. However, over the years, the desktop PC industry has become quite standardized. It’s almost impossible these days to install the individual pieces, cables and connectors in the wrong location. The guide below can be followed step by step to achieve your goal.\\n3-2. Gather your tools.\\nYou'll need:\\nPhillips Head Screwdriver: The only real tool you will need apart from your hands to complete the build successfully. A magnetic screwdriver is always helpful for getting screws in tricky positions and to ensure you don’t drop one in an annoying location to reach.\\nCable Ties (optional): Very often cable ties are bundled in with the computer case accessories with the screws. You may want to pick up a pack for cheap if you know your case does not and want a clean cable managed build. An alternative and less permanent solution to this is to reuse twist ties which are often used in component packaging to hold cables together.\\n3-3. Take precautions before you start.\\nStatic electricity has the potential to damage delicate and expensive components. A very common question is what precautions can be taken and which are necessary. The vast majority of experienced PC builders use grounded wrist straps and similar solutions. They also take basic precautions such as touching a grounded object (for instance the metal case of a plugged in appliance).\\nA method some builders use is to plug their PSU in (without turning it on) and touch it every so often to discharge static. Also, don’t build on carpet and avoid wearing socks or loose fitting clothing.\\nParts being broken on arrival or breaking in use is a very rare occurrence, however it definitely can happen. For this reason, you will want to keep all packaging and boxes for your parts for the length of their warranties (which can be a very long time depending on the component).\\nSince motherboards are the first thing to be touched and used, a good trick is to place the board on the card box in which it was packed in. This avoids physical damage to the board itself.\\n3-4. Install the CPU.\\nTake the motherboard out of its protective bag and place it on top of its box (a perfect non-conductive workspace which is the right size to fit the motherboard on). Do not place the motherboard on the anti-static bag it was in, as this is not a good work surface and you are better off just using the box as the bag only offers protection when parts are inside of it.\\nUnbox your CPU at this stage and remove it from the protective cover.\\nLift the CPU retention bracket lever to reveal the socket and its pins. These are incredibly delicate and easy to bend (which motherboard manufacturers will not accept an RMA for), so be very careful when working around the socket.\\nAll CPUs have an arrow in one corner corresponding to an arrow printed on or around a corner of the motherboard CPU socket to indicate which way round it fits. In addition to this, Intel CPUs also have notched sides on the upper left and right edges which match up with the shape of the socket. Gently lower the CPU into the socket in the correct position. You should do this so that the CPU stays as horizontal as you can and makes contact with all pins as close to the same time as possible, however there is obviously some room for error. No force needs to be applied at this stage as this is the job of the retention bracket - the CPU should just fit neatly in its place.\\nGently lower the bracket over the CPU, sliding it onto the raised pillar on the motherboard.\\nPush down the retention bracket arm and hook it back under the latch where it was originally. This may take some force, and may even cause some rather worrying noises, however if you have placed the CPU in the correct position in the socket no harm will be done and this process ensures that the CPU is in proper contact with the socket. If you are unsure you can watch detailed video guides to check that you are doing the right thing and applying a normal amount of force.\\nThe protective cover will pop off as you lower the lever. Be sure to keep this in a safe place, as you will need this if you have to send your motherboard back to the manufacturer to protect the socket during shipping. Your CPU is now installed into the motherboard.\\n3-5. Install the CPU cooler.\\nIf you are using an Intel/AMD stock cooler (one which is bundled in the box with the CPU) remove it from the packaging and place the pins in the corners through the holes surrounding the CPU socket (ensuring that the pins at the corners are rotated to an unlocked position by rotating the top of them in the direction of the arrows). After this, turn the top of the pins in the opposite direction to that shown by the arrows to lock it in place. You can check that it is seated correctly by attempting to gently twist it - there should not be any significant movement. Be sure to arrange the fan cable so it doesn’t interfere with the spinning of the fan.\\nPlug the 4-pin PWM fan connector on the end of the wire coming from your CPU fan into the CPU_FAN header on your motherboard at this stage. Watch that the cable isn’t in the way of the fan blade.\\n3-6. Install the RAM.\\nRead the motherboard manual to find out which slots you should be using for the number of sticks of RAM you have (they are usually color coded and so can be easily referenced). First, pull back the clips on either side of the RAM slots you are going to use.\\nNotice the clear off-centre notch at a point both on the slot and the RAM stick to indicate which way round the sticks should be placed and ensure they can only be placed one way.\\nPlace each RAM stick in a slot and push down evenly on both sides until the clips engage.\\n3-7. Install the motherboard into the PC case.\\nScrews and other accessories which are bundled with the case. Find the standoffs for your case. Do not forget the standoffs. Screw the standoffs into the motherboard tray and the screws into that to offset the motherboard from the case and prevent it from shorting out. These sit between your motherboard and the screw in order to stop the motherboard from touching the case and are vitally important. Screwing the standoffs into the case in the locations where your motherboard has a matching hole for a screw.\\nInstall the motherboard I/O shield. This is a metal panel which goes in your motherboard I/O connectors in the cutout at the back of the case. Ensure this is the correct way round. Place the metal panel into the gap at the back of the case and push firmly around the corners and outside edges until it clicks to secure it.\\nTake the motherboard and place it in the case. It is best to lie the case on its side as you do this. Lower the motherboard into place. Line up the connectors with the gaps in the I/O panel and push the connectors into the panel before lowering it all the way onto the standoffs. You may need to apply some pressure in the direction of the back of the case to line up the screw holes with the standoffs - this is normal.\\n3-8. Start on proper cable management.\\nConnect any 3 pin fan headers from case fans to 3 or 4 pin fan headers on the motherboard. See the motherboard manual if you can't find their location.\\nA first build can be tempting to not bother to manage cables and that you will 'sort it out another time' but that way it takes more work later or never gets done - so do it now. It ensures that cables do not get in the way, gather dust or obstruct airflow.\\n3-9. Install a graphics card (optional).\\nNext we can move on to the installation of the graphics card. Remove the PCIe blanking plates corresponding to the slot on the case you will be placing your graphics card in. Again, your motherboard manual will assist you in making a decision about which slot to use, but usually you should use the topmost PCIe x16 slot for your graphics card (and you will need to take off another below when you are using a usual dual graphics card).\\nPress back the clip at the edge of the slot similarly to the RAM slots ready for you to insert the graphics card. Lower the card into position and push down evenly at both ends until the clip engages.\\nScrew the graphics card in to secure it in place - the graphics card will have holes in it similarly to those on the blanking plates allowing you to screw the card with case.\\n3-10. Focus on cable management.\\nNow things get more fiddly as we begin cabling. First sort out front panel connections before moving on to installing the power supply within the case to keep clutter to a minimum.\\nFocus on the front panel header connections which will be separate very small wires, with labels on each for switches and LEDs. Pass them through a case cutout to the front of the build (will be hiding cables as much as possible behind the motherboard tray where they are out of sight and do not disrupt airflow).\\nConnect these cables to the motherboard. Use motherboard manual as each motherboard has a different arrangement of pins on their front panel header (which is why all the cables are separate rather than being bundled into one larger connector). Double check your positives and negatives on LED connections.\\nAfter this tedious job is over you will be pleased to know that all the other cables are relatively simple. If your case has front panel audio connections/USB ports the next job will be connecting the 'HD Audio' connector / Front USB connector to the respective header on the motherboard. Again use manual if you are not sure of location of connector.\\nWith all the case connections dealt with we can now focus on a small amount of cable management before proceeding. Make use of cable ties to group cables together and pull the excess behind the motherboard tray.\\n3-11. Install the power supply.\\nNext we will be inserting the power supply. This simply slides into place above/underneath the motherboard - depending on case design - and will sit against the back of the case. Which way up you place the fan depends on your case and the airflow.\\n3-12. Connect Power Cables.\\nFirst take all the connectors straight through the large cutout in the case to the rear of the motherboard tray and pull through all the excess.\\nPlace and connect the 20/24pin ATX power cable and the 4 or 8pin EPS power cable (which is commonly labelled 'CPU Power') back through the cutouts closest to their headers. The EPS power connector will be at the top of your motherboard near to processor and 20/24pin cable along the edge. In most cases there is a cutout in the upper left corner of the motherboard to route the 4 or 8pin EPS power cable through in order to reduce cable clutter.\\nDo not plug PCIe connectors into your EPS power connector. This may seem very obvious (8 pin PCIe is differently keyed to 8pin CPU power) but some people connecting a 6 pin PCIe power connector to their 4 pin PCIe power (with 2 pins hanging over the edge). If the number of pins does not match or the connector is impossible to insert for any cable due to keying, it is a safe bet that you are doing it wrong.\\nRoute any required PCIe connectors for your graphics card through the motherboard backplate cutout closest to the graphics card. All PCIe power connectors on the graphics card must be filled by a cable in order to successfully power the card. 8 pin PCIe power connectors from the PSU are often designed to split into 6 pin and a 2 pin optional part - feel free to use just the 6 pin part if you have a graphics card with a 6 pin connector you need to fill leaving the other 2 pins (this step is optional as some low to mid-end graphics card do not require extra power connector and draw all needed power through the PCIe connectors). Connect these cables into the graphics card PCIe connectors which will be located at the side or end of the card.\\n3-13. Install storage..\\nDrives, including optical drives in the 5.25\\\" bay, require two connectors - SATA data and SATA power. Both connectors are \\\"L\\\" shaped so you can take a look before connecting it to see the correct orientation. SATA power can require a moderate amount of pressure to plug into stiff connectors. First connect one end of the SATA data cable which will be supplied with your motherboard and/or drive to the drive, and the other to a SATA port on the motherboard. It will usually connect with a satisfying click as the clip engages.\\nNext, take a SATA power cable from your PSU and connect it to the SATA power connector on the drive (next to SATA data).\\nConsult your motherboard's manual for instructions on how to install an M.2 SSD, as this can vary from board to board.\\n3-14. Complete the final touches.\\nNow you are completely finished with building. Only problem is a lot of excess cabling at the rear side of the motherboard tray. Use cable tie points on the case to secure cables out of sight and route them in a channel along the edge of the tray.\\nAfter this, place the front and back panels back on the PC and you are ready to go. Enjoy your brand new PC!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a computer is easy, but building a budget computer is hard, especially if you're aiming for performance. However, you might find that you’re happier with a custom-built machine, especially if you want maximum performance for your budget. It also means it’s perfectly crafted to fit your needs, whether you’re a gamer, video editor, or just trying to build a home theater PC. In some instances, your budget PC may be more powerful than a pre-built desktop. That said, selecting parts, buying and building consumes time. In this wikiHow, you'll learn about the buying of parts, building, and installation process, step-by-step.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determining Your Needs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Come up with a rough idea of the kind of performance you want from your machine.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest way to do that is to split builds it up into general categories:\\n\\nLow Performance: If you’re looking for a simple PC for web browsing, email checking, or video watching, a low-performance machine is probably the way to go. These are small, very low budget, don’t draw a lot of power, and are usually pretty quiet (obviously you won't need much performance for that activity). Home theater PCs and simple office work PCs fit into this category. Such machines range from $200 to $500.\\nMid Performance: This is a great option for the majority of users, especially since you can stretch the machine’s power and your budget to fit almost any scenario. Such machines will sit in a smaller case, with enough power to play some casual games and run multiple programs at once. If you’re looking for a multipurpose computer that won’t break the bank, this is where you want to go. Such machines can vary quite a bit in price, but in general, they range from $500 to $800.\\nHigh Performance: These will stretch your budget to its end. Users doing more resource-intensive tasks: converting and editing video, playing latest games at low to mid settings, making 3D art, running operating systems in virtual machines will need more performance. These also use a generous amount of electricity. Typically such a machine may cost anywhere from $800 to $1200.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choosing Parts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Do specific research on the parts you need.\", \"描述\": \"Even with the following steps, this process is going to be overwhelming—especially if you don’t keep up with all the latest hardware news (as many of us don’t). Note that these descriptions are bound to become outdated as time goes on, so in addition to reading the information below, check out some pre-built systems comparable to what you want to build. That’ll help you figure out what kind of processor applies to mid-range builds, how much RAM you’d find in a high-end build, and so on.\\nYou should also consider the OS you want to run, and the programs you’ll be using, and check their recommended system requirements. Make sure you avoid bottlenecks, where one component can’t reach its full potential because another part is too slow. There will be a few reputable brands mentioned in each category, but we recommend reading up on when brand really matters (and when it doesn’t) so you don’t fall into advertising trap.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick a processor.\", \"描述\": \"The Processor (CPU) is the “brain” of your computer. Better CPUs can perform more tasks at once, and perform them faster.The high performance models are only really crucial if you’re performing intensive tasks. It’s also one of the most expensive parts of a machine.Hence picking the “right” processor is important, you should do some research so you don’t want to end up wasting money. Lets start with the basics:\\nConsider clock speed and number of cores. A processor’s clock speed determines how many instructions one core can carry out in one second. Thus, higher clock speed means your computer carries out instructions faster, while more cores means it can carry out more sets of instructions at one time. Some programs can utilize multiple cores at once, making them extremely efficient with multi-core CPUs, but also multitask well since they can carry out multiple sets of instructions simultaneously. Low performance machines probably will need a dual/quad-core processors, mid-range builds will probably want quad/six-core processors, and high-powered machines will definitely want six/eight-core or above.\\nLook at clock speed to determine how fast that processor is. For gaming, clock speed is more important than number of cores, since most games are not designed to use more than one or two cores (though this is starting to change). Assuming you never do any CPU-intensive tasks, a dual-core is probably the highest you need—no hyper-threading needed. If you’re converting video or gaming, the program you use might support multiple cores, in which case a higher number of cores is more important.\\nThose are two basics, but not the only ones, and you don’t want to rely on them alone. It's recommended to look at benchmarks for the processors you’re interested in, to get an idea of how they compare.\\nBe sure to look for other features you may need, too. If you aren’t gaming or editing video, you’ll want to make sure your CPU supports integrated graphics.\\nBrands to Watch For: AMD and Intel are the two CPU heavyweights. Although Intel has received more of the market share in past years, AMD's Ryzen processors are just as good, and simply an alternative to Intel's.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pick a motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"The motherboard connects all the other components to one another. It is the physical base upon which you build everything else. It contains a lot of your machine’s core features, like the number of USB ports, the number of expansion cards you can put in (such as graphics card, etc), and also partially determines how big your computer size will be. Which motherboard you pick will depend on whether you build a low, medium, or high performance machine. As you look at motherboards, you’ll want to pay attention to quite a few things. Here are some of the more important features:\\n\\nSocket Type: Your socket type (such as AMD’s AM4 socket, or Intel’s LGA 1151, etc) determines which processors you can use with that board. So, if you’ve already narrowed down the kind of processor you want, this is a good first step to narrowing down your motherboard. Look for a model with a socket type that matches your processor to ensure that the two are compatible.\\nSize: Motherboards generally come in three sizes: Mini ITX, Micro ATX, and full ATX. The more advanced features you need, the larger the motherboard will need to be, which will also determine the size of your case.\\nNumber and Types of External Ports: Look at the ports available on the motherboard. Do you need a lot of USB ports? You’ll either want a motherboard that has them or enough PCI slots to support extra USB adapters. Do you need HDMI out? If you aren’t using a graphics card, make sure your motherboard has the right video output for your monitor. How many USB 3.0 ports do you want? Some have more than others. If you’re set on a motherboard that doesn’t have a feature you need, you can add most with expansion cards, but life is always easier if the motherboard has them built in.\\nAmount of Supported RAM: If you plan on having a lot of RAM in your machine, you’ll need a motherboard that supports it. Look at how many slots your board has, and how much RAM it allows for.\\nIntegrated Graphics: If all you’re going to do is browse the web, use Microsoft Office, and perform other simple tasks, you may be better off choosing a motherboard with integrated graphics. You only need to shell out for a separate graphics card if you’re doing graphics-intensive activities such as playing video games. If you’re getting a separate graphics card, then don't choose a motherboard with integrated graphics as this may save some cost.\\nNumber of SATA Ports: This determines how many internal hard drives and optical drives you can have. For most builds, this is only really a concern if you plan on having a lot of drives in your computer (like if you’re building a server or a NAS)..\\nNumber of PCI Slots: You can only have as many expansion cards as you have PCI slots, so if you want a dedicated video card (or two), extra USB ports, extra LAN ports, a Wi-Fi adapter, or other expansion cards, you need to make sure your motherboard has enough of them.\\nChipset: Your motherboard’s chipset determines a lot of the more advanced features it has. Some chipsets support overclocking, some do not. Some support SLI and Crossfire (using multiple video cards in tandem), some do not. Others support SSD caching. Others are better for turning into Hackintoshes. If you didn’t understand any of the aforementioned terms, you probably don’t need to pay too close attention to this—but if you want certain advanced features, chipsets will narrow your selection considerably.\\nGenerally, the more of these features you require on the motherboard, the larger in size and price they become, so keep that in mind.\\nBrands to Watch For: ASUS, GIGABYTE, and MSI are probably the biggest names in motherboards. However, BIOSTAR and ASRock are well known for good budget boards, if you’re trying to keep the cost down.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose your power supply.\", \"描述\": \"The power supply (or PSU) directs electricity to the other components in your machine. Generally speaking, if you have a high performance computer with a fast processor, a graphics card, and a few drives, you’ll need a higher wattage power supply than you would if you were building a low-end PC. This is probably the last component you’ll shop for, once you’ve nailed down your other parts and how much electricity they’ll require (some cases come with their own PSU). The power supply is actually one of the most important choices in your build. This is not an area you want to skimp. Reviews on the net are rarely useful. The best you can do is buy from a good brand (see below) and look for these features:\\nWattage: Obviously, if you have a low performance machine, you’ll need fewer watts to power it than you would a high performance machine. Generally, give yourself 100 more watts than what you need, in case you end up upgrading the computer or using that power supply in a later build.\\nEfficiency: Most units will have a percentage value that denotes how efficient they are. For example, an “80 plus certified” 400W PSU will actually pull something like 500W from your wall. So look for something with a high efficiency, as they’ll run cooler (but they probably won’t save you a ton of money).\\nCable Types: Try to look for a “modular” power supply if you can. This means that the cables come detached from the power supply, so you can use only the ones you need and not have the others wasting space in your case. Also make sure it comes with long cables, since cables that are too short can make your life difficult.\\nBrands to Watch For: This is one area where you don’t want to be thrifty. It’s hard to keep track of all the brands out there, but quality manufacturers include Corsair, Enermax, Enhance, EVGA, and Rosewill. Spend the extra $20 if given the choice; you don’t want to end up skimping and frying a $1000 machine in the process.\\nNote: Many cases actually come with power supplies, so if yours does, you don’t necessarily need to buy one separately. That said, the power supplies you’ll buy separately are usually better than the ones that come with cases, but it’s up to you. It’s just something to watch for when you’re shopping for these two parts.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider RAM.\", \"描述\": \"Random Access Memory (or RAM for short) stores data your computer needs quick access to. The size determines how fast your programs run, and help you run more programs at one time. Thus, if you run a lot of programs at once, you’ll want a computer with more RAM. If you use virtual machines, you’ll want higher RAM, since it has to run its own programs in addition to yours. RAM seems simple, but you need to make sure it’s compatible with your motherboard. When looking at RAM, think about:\\n\\nType of Computer: Since most system now are 64 bit, some older model CPU's are 32 bit, especially if you are buying second hand parts. You must know that 32 bit CPU's can only handle 4 GB of RAM.\\nAmount of RAM: At the time of this writing, 4-16 GB seems to be the average for a normal machine. If you’re running virtual machines or using other RAM-hungry apps, you might want 16 GB, but most machines should be fine with around 8 GB. Keep in mind that RAM is easy to upgrade, and if your motherboard has four slots, you can always get two sticks now and add two more sticks later. There’s no need to get a ton of RAM now in the name of “future-proofing”.\\nChannels: Your motherboard will support either dual, triple, or quad channel RAM. This decides how many sticks of RAM you get. If you have a dual channel motherboard, you’ll want to buy RAM in sets of two—for example, two 2GB sticks for a total of 4GB (or four 1GB sticks). Triple channel motherboards take RAM in sets of three, and quad channel is most optimal with a set of four or eight sticks.\\nType: Most RAM nowadays is “DDR4”, though DDR5 and DDR5X is starting to pop up in graphics cards. You shouldn’t have to worry about this too much. Just check your motherboard’s spec list to find out what type of RAM it supports and buy accordingly.\\nSpeed: Your motherboard will support a number of different RAM speeds (e.g., “800/1066/1333”). When you buy your RAM, it will have one of these numbers attached to it. RAM speed traditionally doesn’t make a huge difference, but it’s starting to become more useful. Buy what you can afford, and make sure your motherboard supports it.\\nBrands to Watch For: You won’t find a huge difference between brands. Popular brands include Crucial, Corsair, Kingston, PNY, OCZ, G.Skill, Mushkin, and Patriot. Again, reading reviews of specific sticks of RAM can be very helpful.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Get a graphics card (optional).\", \"描述\": \"This is a processor specifically designed to handle graphics. Some processors come with a GPU already integrated, which is enough to manage light productivity but not enough for playing the latest 3D games. For those, you’ll need a dedicated graphics card and choosing graphics card is one of the hardest parts of the process. If all you need is something that can play HD video, you don’t need to go too crazy—find a well-reviewed card under $100 and call it a day (or just go with integrated graphics). However, if you’re gaming, you have a lot more to think about.\\nInstead of looking at the specs, it’s usually easier to just read reviews and look at gaming benchmarks. Passmark ranks cards by straight-up performance tests, and Anandtech benchmarks many cards using real-world gaming situations. Think about your budget for a video card, then try to find the best performing card in that price range.\\nSome manufacturers also factory overclock their cards, which gives them a performance edge over other manufacturer’s version of the same card, so be on the lookout for those. Also be on the lookout for versions with different levels of VRAM. Higher VRAM cards are useful for high resolution or multiple monitor, but are more expensive.\\nBrands to Watch For: The two main chipset manufacturers are NVIDIA and AMD. The battle between them both is pretty close with each card that comes out. Unless you’re using Linux (for which NVIDIA has better support), worry more about the individual cards than the chipset manufacturer. Go with whatever gives you the best cost to performance ratio at your price point.\\nWhen it comes to the card manufacturers themselves, you have a few to choose from. Look for brands with good cooling and good customer support—XFX and EVGA both have pretty fantastic warranties on most of their cards, which is why they’re two of the most popular manufacturers around. MSI tends to have very good cooling. Other popular brands include ASUS, ZOTAC, and Sapphire.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Pick your storage.\", \"描述\": \"Your storage device stores all of your data, ranging from your operating system to your documents, music, and movies. The type of storage you choose will be determined mainly by how much data you need to store, but certain types of storage can also affect your computer’s speed. When it comes to specs, there are a few things you want to look for in your drives:\\n\\nType: The two most common choices for PC storage are (hard disk drives) and (solid state drives)). The main physical difference here is the mechanism. A HDD contains moving parts, while a SSD does not (hence the name 'solid state'). A SSD is typically much faster than a HDD, and is therefore the go to choice for storing files that will need to be accessed frequently and quickly. Usually, a PC builder will install their operating system on a SSD, as this will allow the computer to both boot and run much faster. HDDs are typically used for long-term data storage that won't need to be accessed regularly, and are commonly paired with an SSD. The benefits of an SSD do come with a price tag though, as these drives are usually much more expensive than their equivalent HDD.\\nThere are also different types of SSDs, with the most common being a SATA SSD. These are usually a credit-card sized drive and many cases include storage options specifically for this type of drive. Another common option is an M.2 SSD, a small drive similar to a stick of RAM (although shorter) that slots directly into many motherboards\\n\\nSize: Obviously, you want enough space on your hard drive to hold all your data, with room for expansion. Hard drives are pretty cheap and easy to upgrade, so you can always add more later if you’re on a budget. SSDs are more expensive, although a low-size SSD can be paired with a HDD to increase the speed of the OS (stored on the SSD), while still keeping costs low.\\nSpeed: The faster your hard drive is, the faster your computer will boot, launch programs, and open files. These days, you get a 7200 RPM HDD for a relatively cheap price. SSDs are more expensive but offer much faster read/write speeds than a hard drive\\n\\nBrands to Watch For: Western Digital, Hitachi, Samsung, and Toshiba are all good choices.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Select an optical drive, if desired.\", \"描述\": \"An optical drive, more commonly known as a CD or DVD drive, is what you’ll use to read CDs, DVDs, and even Blu-Ray discs. These drives are becoming less and less common in computers today, as new technologies (such as USBs) have revolutionised data transfer.\\nIf you’re buying a CD or DVD drive, you probably won’t find a ton of difference between the different models. Most burn discs at around the same speeds. If you’re looking at Blu-Ray drives and Blu-Ray burners, though, pay attention to the read and write speeds. The higher the read speeds, the faster you can rip a Blu-Ray disc, and the faster the write speed on a burner, the faster you can burn a Blu-Ray disc. Obviously, you’ll have to pay more for higher speeds.\\nBrands to Watch For: It doesn’t make a huge difference who you go with here. Lite-On, Samsung, Sony, and LG are all great manufacturers and the prices should be pretty much the same.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Choose a case.\", \"描述\": \"The case holds all of your computer’s parts together. It is less about features of how your computer runs and more about features that affect you and your home—that is, how quiet it is, how well it cools your components, how big it is, and how it looks. Still, it’s an important consideration that is dependent on your other choices, so you might want to think about what you want in terms of a case before moving on to the shopping step (some cases come with their own PSU which increase their overall cost, also you might want to check their power rating Watts and how much you require). Your case may not seem like a super important part of your build, but it’s about more than looks. A good case will be easier to build in, last you a long time, and keep your machine cool. Here’s what you’ll need to look for:\\n\\nSize: Cases come in a number of shapes and sizes, and what size case you choose should match the kind of motherboard you’re buying. If you chose a Mini-ITX motherboard, then a Mini-ITX Tower or Mini-ITX Desktop box is for you. A Micro ATX mini tower is the size you’ll find in most pre-built computers, so know that mid and full towers are probably bigger than what you’re used to.\\nAirflow: This is something you’ll have to look for in user reviews. Every case is a little different, and the better your fans are placed, the better airflow you’ll have inside (which will keep your computer from overheating). Look for cases with lots of air vents, especially on the front, to allow heat to escape your computer easily and for cool air to be drawn in.\\nNoise: While you want good airflow, some fans are particularly loud, which can be annoying to some people. If you want your computer to stay relatively quiet, check the user reviews and see what people say about the case’s loudness.\\nNumber of Drive Bays: If you need more than just a hard drive an optical drive, count the number of drive bays on your case and make sure you have enough. Keep in mind other things, like card readers, will take up drive bays as well. Internal 3.5” drive bays are for hard drives, external 3.5” drive bays are for card readers, and external 5.25” drives are for optical drives (and other stuff).\\nPorts on the Front: Almost every case you buy will have a number of ports on the front, which usually include a few USB ports, a headphone jack, and a microphone jack. If you want easy access to USB 3.0, for example, you’ll want to make sure it’s on the front of your case.\\nCable Management: As you build, you’ll realize there are a lot of cables inside a computer. Unfortunately, if you just leave them hanging where they fall, they’ll block a lot of air from flowing correctly through the case, so you want to organize them as best you can. Some cases have built-in holes through which you can route cables, while some leave you to figure it out yourself with zip ties. The former is, obviously, a lot less work, so see what user reviews say about cable management options.\\nKeep in mind that a case is something you can use for multiple builds down the road. You don’t need to buy a new case every time you build a computer. Get a quality one now and it should last many builds into the future.\\nBrands to Watch for: Corsair, NZXT, Antec, and Cooler Master both make some of the best cases on the market. Thermaltake, Rosewill, Fractal Design,and Silverstone are also trusted manufacturers.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Choose peripherals.\", \"描述\": \"A very good low priced keyboard and mouse can easily be obtained for your daily needs. But if your computer usage is high, then it may be worth it to spend more on an ergonomically good mouse and keyboard to prevent wrist pain or save endless clicks on the scroll wheel. You'll also need a monitor, so consider your use case when selecting features (refresh rate, resolution etc.) See this article for details.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the PC\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Don't be too daunted.\", \"描述\": \"The process of assembling your own PC is actually very simple in contrast to most people’s expectations. Compared to our researching part section, actual assembly is a much simpler task. Most users are often overwhelmed at the idea of assembling their own PC from scratch. However, over the years, the desktop PC industry has become quite standardized. It’s almost impossible these days to install the individual pieces, cables and connectors in the wrong location. The guide below can be followed step by step to achieve your goal.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather your tools.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need:\\nPhillips Head Screwdriver: The only real tool you will need apart from your hands to complete the build successfully. A magnetic screwdriver is always helpful for getting screws in tricky positions and to ensure you don’t drop one in an annoying location to reach.\\nCable Ties (optional): Very often cable ties are bundled in with the computer case accessories with the screws. You may want to pick up a pack for cheap if you know your case does not and want a clean cable managed build. An alternative and less permanent solution to this is to reuse twist ties which are often used in component packaging to hold cables together.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Take precautions before you start.\", \"描述\": \"Static electricity has the potential to damage delicate and expensive components. A very common question is what precautions can be taken and which are necessary. The vast majority of experienced PC builders use grounded wrist straps and similar solutions. They also take basic precautions such as touching a grounded object (for instance the metal case of a plugged in appliance).\\nA method some builders use is to plug their PSU in (without turning it on) and touch it every so often to discharge static. Also, don’t build on carpet and avoid wearing socks or loose fitting clothing.\\nParts being broken on arrival or breaking in use is a very rare occurrence, however it definitely can happen. For this reason, you will want to keep all packaging and boxes for your parts for the length of their warranties (which can be a very long time depending on the component).\\nSince motherboards are the first thing to be touched and used, a good trick is to place the board on the card box in which it was packed in. This avoids physical damage to the board itself.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the CPU.\", \"描述\": \"Take the motherboard out of its protective bag and place it on top of its box (a perfect non-conductive workspace which is the right size to fit the motherboard on). Do not place the motherboard on the anti-static bag it was in, as this is not a good work surface and you are better off just using the box as the bag only offers protection when parts are inside of it.\\nUnbox your CPU at this stage and remove it from the protective cover.\\nLift the CPU retention bracket lever to reveal the socket and its pins. These are incredibly delicate and easy to bend (which motherboard manufacturers will not accept an RMA for), so be very careful when working around the socket.\\nAll CPUs have an arrow in one corner corresponding to an arrow printed on or around a corner of the motherboard CPU socket to indicate which way round it fits. In addition to this, Intel CPUs also have notched sides on the upper left and right edges which match up with the shape of the socket. Gently lower the CPU into the socket in the correct position. You should do this so that the CPU stays as horizontal as you can and makes contact with all pins as close to the same time as possible, however there is obviously some room for error. No force needs to be applied at this stage as this is the job of the retention bracket - the CPU should just fit neatly in its place.\\nGently lower the bracket over the CPU, sliding it onto the raised pillar on the motherboard.\\nPush down the retention bracket arm and hook it back under the latch where it was originally. This may take some force, and may even cause some rather worrying noises, however if you have placed the CPU in the correct position in the socket no harm will be done and this process ensures that the CPU is in proper contact with the socket. If you are unsure you can watch detailed video guides to check that you are doing the right thing and applying a normal amount of force.\\nThe protective cover will pop off as you lower the lever. Be sure to keep this in a safe place, as you will need this if you have to send your motherboard back to the manufacturer to protect the socket during shipping. Your CPU is now installed into the motherboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install the CPU cooler.\", \"描述\": \"If you are using an Intel/AMD stock cooler (one which is bundled in the box with the CPU) remove it from the packaging and place the pins in the corners through the holes surrounding the CPU socket (ensuring that the pins at the corners are rotated to an unlocked position by rotating the top of them in the direction of the arrows). After this, turn the top of the pins in the opposite direction to that shown by the arrows to lock it in place. You can check that it is seated correctly by attempting to gently twist it - there should not be any significant movement. Be sure to arrange the fan cable so it doesn’t interfere with the spinning of the fan.\\nPlug the 4-pin PWM fan connector on the end of the wire coming from your CPU fan into the CPU_FAN header on your motherboard at this stage. Watch that the cable isn’t in the way of the fan blade.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install the RAM.\", \"描述\": \"Read the motherboard manual to find out which slots you should be using for the number of sticks of RAM you have (they are usually color coded and so can be easily referenced). First, pull back the clips on either side of the RAM slots you are going to use.\\nNotice the clear off-centre notch at a point both on the slot and the RAM stick to indicate which way round the sticks should be placed and ensure they can only be placed one way.\\nPlace each RAM stick in a slot and push down evenly on both sides until the clips engage.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install the motherboard into the PC case.\", \"描述\": \"Screws and other accessories which are bundled with the case. Find the standoffs for your case. Do not forget the standoffs. Screw the standoffs into the motherboard tray and the screws into that to offset the motherboard from the case and prevent it from shorting out. These sit between your motherboard and the screw in order to stop the motherboard from touching the case and are vitally important. Screwing the standoffs into the case in the locations where your motherboard has a matching hole for a screw.\\nInstall the motherboard I/O shield. This is a metal panel which goes in your motherboard I/O connectors in the cutout at the back of the case. Ensure this is the correct way round. Place the metal panel into the gap at the back of the case and push firmly around the corners and outside edges until it clicks to secure it.\\nTake the motherboard and place it in the case. It is best to lie the case on its side as you do this. Lower the motherboard into place. Line up the connectors with the gaps in the I/O panel and push the connectors into the panel before lowering it all the way onto the standoffs. You may need to apply some pressure in the direction of the back of the case to line up the screw holes with the standoffs - this is normal.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Start on proper cable management.\", \"描述\": \"Connect any 3 pin fan headers from case fans to 3 or 4 pin fan headers on the motherboard. See the motherboard manual if you can't find their location.\\nA first build can be tempting to not bother to manage cables and that you will 'sort it out another time' but that way it takes more work later or never gets done - so do it now. It ensures that cables do not get in the way, gather dust or obstruct airflow.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Install a graphics card (optional).\", \"描述\": \"Next we can move on to the installation of the graphics card. Remove the PCIe blanking plates corresponding to the slot on the case you will be placing your graphics card in. Again, your motherboard manual will assist you in making a decision about which slot to use, but usually you should use the topmost PCIe x16 slot for your graphics card (and you will need to take off another below when you are using a usual dual graphics card).\\nPress back the clip at the edge of the slot similarly to the RAM slots ready for you to insert the graphics card. Lower the card into position and push down evenly at both ends until the clip engages.\\nScrew the graphics card in to secure it in place - the graphics card will have holes in it similarly to those on the blanking plates allowing you to screw the card with case.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Focus on cable management.\", \"描述\": \"Now things get more fiddly as we begin cabling. First sort out front panel connections before moving on to installing the power supply within the case to keep clutter to a minimum.\\nFocus on the front panel header connections which will be separate very small wires, with labels on each for switches and LEDs. Pass them through a case cutout to the front of the build (will be hiding cables as much as possible behind the motherboard tray where they are out of sight and do not disrupt airflow).\\nConnect these cables to the motherboard. Use motherboard manual as each motherboard has a different arrangement of pins on their front panel header (which is why all the cables are separate rather than being bundled into one larger connector). Double check your positives and negatives on LED connections.\\nAfter this tedious job is over you will be pleased to know that all the other cables are relatively simple. If your case has front panel audio connections/USB ports the next job will be connecting the 'HD Audio' connector / Front USB connector to the respective header on the motherboard. Again use manual if you are not sure of location of connector.\\nWith all the case connections dealt with we can now focus on a small amount of cable management before proceeding. Make use of cable ties to group cables together and pull the excess behind the motherboard tray.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Install the power supply.\", \"描述\": \"Next we will be inserting the power supply. This simply slides into place above/underneath the motherboard - depending on case design - and will sit against the back of the case. Which way up you place the fan depends on your case and the airflow.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Connect Power Cables.\", \"描述\": \"First take all the connectors straight through the large cutout in the case to the rear of the motherboard tray and pull through all the excess.\\nPlace and connect the 20/24pin ATX power cable and the 4 or 8pin EPS power cable (which is commonly labelled 'CPU Power') back through the cutouts closest to their headers. The EPS power connector will be at the top of your motherboard near to processor and 20/24pin cable along the edge. In most cases there is a cutout in the upper left corner of the motherboard to route the 4 or 8pin EPS power cable through in order to reduce cable clutter.\\nDo not plug PCIe connectors into your EPS power connector. This may seem very obvious (8 pin PCIe is differently keyed to 8pin CPU power) but some people connecting a 6 pin PCIe power connector to their 4 pin PCIe power (with 2 pins hanging over the edge). If the number of pins does not match or the connector is impossible to insert for any cable due to keying, it is a safe bet that you are doing it wrong.\\nRoute any required PCIe connectors for your graphics card through the motherboard backplate cutout closest to the graphics card. All PCIe power connectors on the graphics card must be filled by a cable in order to successfully power the card. 8 pin PCIe power connectors from the PSU are often designed to split into 6 pin and a 2 pin optional part - feel free to use just the 6 pin part if you have a graphics card with a 6 pin connector you need to fill leaving the other 2 pins (this step is optional as some low to mid-end graphics card do not require extra power connector and draw all needed power through the PCIe connectors). Connect these cables into the graphics card PCIe connectors which will be located at the side or end of the card.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Install storage..\", \"描述\": \"Drives, including optical drives in the 5.25\\\" bay, require two connectors - SATA data and SATA power. Both connectors are \\\"L\\\" shaped so you can take a look before connecting it to see the correct orientation. SATA power can require a moderate amount of pressure to plug into stiff connectors. First connect one end of the SATA data cable which will be supplied with your motherboard and/or drive to the drive, and the other to a SATA port on the motherboard. It will usually connect with a satisfying click as the clip engages.\\nNext, take a SATA power cable from your PSU and connect it to the SATA power connector on the drive (next to SATA data).\\nConsult your motherboard's manual for instructions on how to install an M.2 SSD, as this can vary from board to board.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Complete the final touches.\", \"描述\": \"Now you are completely finished with building. Only problem is a lot of excess cabling at the rear side of the motherboard tray. Use cable tie points on the case to secure cables out of sight and route them in a channel along the edge of the tray.\\nAfter this, place the front and back panels back on the PC and you are ready to go. Enjoy your brand new PC!\"}]}]}}",
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wikihow
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7,266 |
How to Build a Cheap Wrestling Ring
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1. Steps
1-1. Make sure that wherever you're going to build your ring, you make sure that you have enough room.
Also, think about the size of your audience. Will it be large or small?
1-2. Gather metal poles, plywood, some tires and tarps.
Most of these items can either be purchased or if possible maybe a junkyard for the like say the tires.
1-3. Start by using the plywood create like a bed.
Make sure that you use enough plywood so it's high enough.
1-4. Fill that bed with rubber tires.
Once the bed is full, put a layer of something soft like a bunch of old blankets or a lot of towels, and put them over the tires.
1-5. Cover the bed with a tarp and nail it into the wooden sides of the ring.
1-6. Grab four metal poles and set them at each corner of the ring.
Then, connect them to the sides of the ring in the corners.
1-7. Get some rope, drill and screws.
Using a drill, screw in eye hooks into the ring posts (three in each post).
1-8. Make a square.
After all hooks are attached using a bunch or rope, thread it through the eye hook all the way around the ring, creating a square.
1-9. Tie the ropes off and you are ready to rumble!
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Make sure that wherever you're going to build your ring, you make sure that you have enough room.\\nAlso, think about the size of your audience. Will it be large or small?\\n1-2. Gather metal poles, plywood, some tires and tarps.\\nMost of these items can either be purchased or if possible maybe a junkyard for the like say the tires.\\n1-3. Start by using the plywood create like a bed.\\nMake sure that you use enough plywood so it's high enough.\\n1-4. Fill that bed with rubber tires.\\nOnce the bed is full, put a layer of something soft like a bunch of old blankets or a lot of towels, and put them over the tires.\\n1-5. Cover the bed with a tarp and nail it into the wooden sides of the ring.\\n\\n1-6. Grab four metal poles and set them at each corner of the ring.\\nThen, connect them to the sides of the ring in the corners.\\n1-7. Get some rope, drill and screws.\\nUsing a drill, screw in eye hooks into the ring posts (three in each post).\\n1-8. Make a square.\\nAfter all hooks are attached using a bunch or rope, thread it through the eye hook all the way around the ring, creating a square.\\n1-9. Tie the ropes off and you are ready to rumble!\\n\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You might enjoy wrestling. Part of this is building a wrestling ring, which can be done with a few simple steps.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure that wherever you're going to build your ring, you make sure that you have enough room.\", \"描述\": \"Also, think about the size of your audience. Will it be large or small?\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather metal poles, plywood, some tires and tarps.\", \"描述\": \"Most of these items can either be purchased or if possible maybe a junkyard for the like say the tires.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Start by using the plywood create like a bed.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that you use enough plywood so it's high enough.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill that bed with rubber tires.\", \"描述\": \"Once the bed is full, put a layer of something soft like a bunch of old blankets or a lot of towels, and put them over the tires.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cover the bed with a tarp and nail it into the wooden sides of the ring.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Grab four metal poles and set them at each corner of the ring.\", \"描述\": \"Then, connect them to the sides of the ring in the corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Get some rope, drill and screws.\", \"描述\": \"Using a drill, screw in eye hooks into the ring posts (three in each post).\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Make a square.\", \"描述\": \"After all hooks are attached using a bunch or rope, thread it through the eye hook all the way around the ring, creating a square.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Tie the ropes off and you are ready to rumble!\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}]}}",
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wikihow
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7,267 |
How to Build a Chicken Coop
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1. Planning
1-1. Decide on the size of your chicken coop.
The ideal size of a coop changes drastically, depending on the type of coop and how many chickens you have. Below are some rules of thumb for some of the most common types of chicken coops:
Coop without an outdoor pen: This is the most basic type of chicken coop, consisting only of the physical indoor structure. The chickens will be confined to the indoor space until someone specifically lets them out, so allow at least 5 square feet per chicken.
Outdoor chicken run: This is slightly more difficult to build than the simple coop, but it will allow your chickens more space, as well as the option of being outside. Allow 2 to 3 square feet per chicken for the coop, and at least 4 square feet per chicken for the outside run.
Winter only coop: This coop is used to keep chickens inside during the winter months. Since it is unlikely that the chickens will be allowed outside during sad months, allow between 7 and 10 square feet per chicken.
Note that egg-laying hens will also require a nesting area of at least 1 square foot per 4 hens, as well as a roosting area of 6 to 10 inches (15.2 to 25.4 cm) per chicken. Roosts should be at least 2 feet (0.6 m) off the ground (the elevation will keep your chickens dry during wet weather).
1-2. Choose a location for the coop.
If possible, place your coop partially underneath a large tree, which will offer shade in the summer and keep your chickens from overheating.
Sunlight encourages egg-laying, so try not to place your coop directly in the shade. Alternatively, you can use warm yellow lights inside the coop to increase egg production (white or blue light will have no effect).
1-3. Know what you will need to put inside the coop.
The more you add inside the coop, the less space the chickens will have. Therefore, it is important to have a clear idea of the objects you will be putting inside so that you can account for the loss of space in your building plans.
Perching Area. Often just a thick stick or piece of wood hung between the walls in the coop, and elevated perch allows for extra space, as well as a comfortable sleeping area for your chickens.
Nesting Area. You can make a nest by stuffing boxes or baskets with straw or sawdust. Without enough nesting space, your chickens will lay eggs on the ground, increasing the likelihood that they will break. Keep in mind that the average chicken will lay an egg every one to two days. The size of your nesting area should reflect both the number of chickens and how often you plan to collect eggs. In general, one nesting area per 4 to 5 hens should be sufficient.
Other than the fact that elevated nests will discourage predation, the height of your nests is not as important as the location. Be sure that the nests are placed in a clean, dry place, and that they are separate from the roosting area (or you risk chicken manure on your eggs!).
Ventilation. To avoid disease caused by stale air, proper ventilation systems are necessary. If you plan to build a year-round, closed coop, be sure to include little windows covered in chicken wire to allow for proper air flow.
Dust Boxes. Chickens often clean themselves with dust bathing. To keep your chickens happy and smell-free, consider adding a couple boxes filled with dirt or sand.
1-4. Decide whether to build a coop from scratch or repurpose an old structure.
If you have an unused garage, shed, or even a large dog crate, you may be able to save yourself some work and repurpose it as a chicken coop by adding the amenities mentioned above. If you are building the coop from scratch, choose a plan that fits your needs as described above. The method outlined below will help you build a simple coop, ideal for using in conjunction with an outdoor pen. If that does not fit your needs, you can find hundreds of plans by searching "Chicken coop building plans" in your favorite search engine.
Consider convenience. Remember that you will need to clean out the chicken coop, as well as regularly change the food and water. If you do not want to build a coop that is large enough to stand up in, look for a plan that gives you a few options, such as multiple "access doors."
If you decide to repurpose an old structure, avoid lumber that's been coated with lead paint or that was used to house harmful chemicals, or you risk damaging the health of both you and your chickens.
2. Floor and Wall Construction
2-1. Scale the measurements.
This basic coop is 4 feet (1.2 m) by 6 feet (1.8 m) (24 square feet of floor space). If you need more or less space, feel free to scale the measurements accordingly.
2-2. Build the floor.
To make both building and cleaning as easy as possible, start with a piece of plywood cut to the ideal size (in this case, 4 feet by 6 feet). Be sure that the plywood is between ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) and ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) thick.
If you are cutting the plywood yourself, use a straight edge and an easy-to-see pen to make lines before you cut.
Screw on the frame. To keep the floor sturdy, screw 2x4s around the bottom perimeter. You may also want to screw one across the middle of the floor for extra security. To ensure a tight joint on the corners, use a long pipe clamp.
2-3. Build the solid wall.
This is the only one of the walls that will not have an opening, and thus it is the easiest to build. Use a 6 foot (1.8 m) long, ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick piece of plywood. Screw 2x2s to the underside of the vertical edges. Be sure that the 2x2s stop 4 inches (10.2 cm) from the bottom of the plywood.
2-4. Connect the floor to the wall.
Place the wall on the floor so that the extra 4 inches (10.2 cm) of plywood covers the 2x4s on the underside of the floor. Then, secure the wall in place using 1 ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) screws and construction glue.
2-5. Make the front panel.
Use 1 and 1/2 inch screws and construction glue to attach a 4 foot (1.2 m) long, ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick piece of plywood to the front of the coop. Screw the plywood into the 2x4s on the bottom of the coop and the 2x2s on the solid side wall. Then, cut the door opening.
Plan the front door opening before you cut. The door opening should be 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) wide. Cut the height according to your preferences, but keep in mind that you should leave 6 to 10 inches (15.2 to 25.4 cm) between the edges of the door and the top and bottom of the plywood panel.
Use a Jigsaw to make the cut. This will give you the easiest, smoothest cut. When you are done, reinforce the top of the door using a piece of scrap wood about 20 inches (50.8 cm) long and thick enough to attach using plenty of screws and glue.
2-6. Build the back wall.
Attach the second 4 foot (1.2 m) piece of plywood to the back of the coop using the same method as you did for the front panel. Then, cut and reinforce the door opening, again as you did for the front.
2-7. Construct the last wall.
This will be done using 3 smaller pieces of plywood, rather than one large piece. To begin, cut two 2 foot (0.6 m) long pieces of plywood, and one 4 to 5 foot (1.2 to 1.5 m) long piece of plywood that is 1/2 as wide as your coop is tall. Then, attach a 2x2 to the underside of one of the vertical edges of a 2 foot (0.6 m) long piece of plywood. Repeat this step on the second 2 foot (0.6 m) long piece of plywood.
As with the other side, be sure that the 2x2s stop 4 inches (10.2 cm) from the bottom of the plywood. This will allow the plywood to hang down over the 2x4s on the underside of the floor.
2-8. Attach the wall.
Screw one 2 foot (0.6 m) long panel directly next to the front of the coop, and the other directly next to the back. Attach the longer panel between the 2 foot (0.6 m) long panels. Be sure to line the edge up with the tops of the 2 foot (0.6 m) panels so that the opening is near the floor.
Reinforce the middle panel by attaching two pieces of scrap wood where the panel joins with the two side panels. Be sure that the scrap wood is as long (vertically) as your middle panel.
3. Roof Construction
3-1. Cut out your gables.
A gable is a triangular piece of wood that sits on top of the front and back walls of the coop, supporting the roof. Therefore, in this case, both gables should be 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Use a Jigsaw to cut the gables out of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) thick oriented strand board.
Use an angle finder to determine the exact pitch of the roof. If you don't have an angle finder, you can eyeball the pitch (just make sure it's the same for both gables!)
Notch the gables. In order for the gables to fit correctly, you'll need to make notches where you reinforced the openings. If the wood you used for the front is exactly the same size as the back, you can make exactly the same cut on both gables. However, if you used scrap wood, you'll need to make unique cuts for each gable.
3-2. Screw on the gables.
Place the front gable against the inside of the front wall and attach it using construction glue and screws. Repeat for the back gable.
It's okay if there is a little bit of wiggle room between the reinforcement wood and the notches. The important thing is that the gable is sturdy once attached to the wall.
3-3. Build a truss.
The truss, like a gable, supports the roof. However, rather than supporting the ends of the roof, the truss supports the middle. To ensure that the angle of your truss matches the angle of your gables, clamp two 2x2s to the slanted edges of one of your gables. Be sure that the 2x2s hang slightly longer (2 to 4 inches) than the edges of the gable.
Strengthen your truss by cutting a crosstie from ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) thick plywood. Cut it to the same measurements as your gable, and then screw it to the 2x2s.
3-4. Notch the truss.
Once you've screwed the crosstie to the 2x2s, you can remove the clamps. Rest the truss in the middle of the coop and mark where the side walls intersect the 2x2s of the truss. Then, make a ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) notch in the wood where you put each mark. This will allow you to slip the truss onto the top of the side walls.
3-5. Make the roof.
To make a simple roof, join two 40 inch (101.6 cm) by 84 inch (213.4 cm) pieces of plywood with some inexpensive hinges. Be sure to join them along the 84 inch (213.4 cm) sides so that the roof with cover the entire chicken coop.
Place the roof on top of the coop. Check to see that there is an overhang at both the front and back of the coop. The overhang is necessary for both structural and aesthetic reasons.
3-6. Build a gable trim.
Screw a pair of 2x2s to bottom edge of the front and back overhangs. In addition to looking nice, this will stiffen the roof and help prevent structural failures.
3-7. Attach and finish the roof.
Screw the roof to the truss and gables. Then, add a roof top cap to keep the roof weather-proof. The easiest way to do this is to cover the roof with a layer of tar paper and galvanized roofing. Attach the tar paper with staples and use exterior-grade screws for the galvanized roofing.
4. Door Installation
4-1. Cut the wood.
Use a well finished medium-density fiberboard for the doors. The size of the pieces will depend on the chosen height of your chicken coop. Each door should be as tall and half as wide as the door opening.
4-2. Install a door frame.
Screw a 2x2 along each side of each door opening, as well as along the tops. This will give you a sturdy place to screw the door hinges.
4-3. Attach the front doors.
Screw in two hinges per door—one about four inches from the top of the door and the other about four inches from the bottom. Note that you may need a third hinge directly in the middle, depending on how tall your chicken coop is.
4-4. Repeat this process for the other two openings.
You can use the same measurements for the back of the coop as you did for the front, but remember to take new measurements for the doors on the side of the coop.
4-5. Add closures.
Brass hook catches are an inexpensive, efficient closure to use, but any type of closure will work, so long as it is not easily opened by common predators such as dogs or skunks.
5. Raising the Coop
5-1. Add legs.
While not necessary, a raised chicken coop with give your flock added protection from predators, as well as help to keep them dry during rain or snow.
Use four 2x4s for the legs. Use beefy screws to attach them to the 2x4s on the bottom corners of the chicken coop.
5-2. Build a ladder.
Attach 2x2s to a 2x4 to make a ladder that will be easy for your chickens to use, while still being too narrow for predators. Attach the ladder with a small hinge.
Tips
Painting your coop adds protection against weathering. This will also make the coop more aesthetically pleasing.
Position open windows or vents towards the east so that the morning sun wakes up the hens. This will help both with egg production and overall flock happiness—the more sunlight, the less cooped up (so to speak) they'll feel.
You could add wood shavings instead of newspaper as well. You can add a plant to the wood to make it more pleasing and a snack for your chickens.
Warnings
Chicken use their gizzards to grind their food. Your soil should therefore have enough grit, if this is not so they will need an additional source of grit.
Be sure and build a design that is right for your climate. If you build a primarily wire coop in a location that receives a lot of snow and cold your chickens will suffer from frostbite in the winters. Likewise, a coop designed to keep chickens warm could cause overheating in places with hot summers.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning\\n1-1. Decide on the size of your chicken coop.\\nThe ideal size of a coop changes drastically, depending on the type of coop and how many chickens you have. Below are some rules of thumb for some of the most common types of chicken coops:\\n\\nCoop without an outdoor pen: This is the most basic type of chicken coop, consisting only of the physical indoor structure. The chickens will be confined to the indoor space until someone specifically lets them out, so allow at least 5 square feet per chicken.\\nOutdoor chicken run: This is slightly more difficult to build than the simple coop, but it will allow your chickens more space, as well as the option of being outside. Allow 2 to 3 square feet per chicken for the coop, and at least 4 square feet per chicken for the outside run.\\nWinter only coop: This coop is used to keep chickens inside during the winter months. Since it is unlikely that the chickens will be allowed outside during sad months, allow between 7 and 10 square feet per chicken.\\nNote that egg-laying hens will also require a nesting area of at least 1 square foot per 4 hens, as well as a roosting area of 6 to 10 inches (15.2 to 25.4 cm) per chicken. Roosts should be at least 2 feet (0.6 m) off the ground (the elevation will keep your chickens dry during wet weather).\\n1-2. Choose a location for the coop.\\nIf possible, place your coop partially underneath a large tree, which will offer shade in the summer and keep your chickens from overheating.\\nSunlight encourages egg-laying, so try not to place your coop directly in the shade. Alternatively, you can use warm yellow lights inside the coop to increase egg production (white or blue light will have no effect).\\n1-3. Know what you will need to put inside the coop.\\nThe more you add inside the coop, the less space the chickens will have. Therefore, it is important to have a clear idea of the objects you will be putting inside so that you can account for the loss of space in your building plans.\\n\\nPerching Area. Often just a thick stick or piece of wood hung between the walls in the coop, and elevated perch allows for extra space, as well as a comfortable sleeping area for your chickens.\\n Nesting Area. You can make a nest by stuffing boxes or baskets with straw or sawdust. Without enough nesting space, your chickens will lay eggs on the ground, increasing the likelihood that they will break. Keep in mind that the average chicken will lay an egg every one to two days. The size of your nesting area should reflect both the number of chickens and how often you plan to collect eggs. In general, one nesting area per 4 to 5 hens should be sufficient.\\nOther than the fact that elevated nests will discourage predation, the height of your nests is not as important as the location. Be sure that the nests are placed in a clean, dry place, and that they are separate from the roosting area (or you risk chicken manure on your eggs!).\\n\\nVentilation. To avoid disease caused by stale air, proper ventilation systems are necessary. If you plan to build a year-round, closed coop, be sure to include little windows covered in chicken wire to allow for proper air flow.\\nDust Boxes. Chickens often clean themselves with dust bathing. To keep your chickens happy and smell-free, consider adding a couple boxes filled with dirt or sand.\\n1-4. Decide whether to build a coop from scratch or repurpose an old structure.\\nIf you have an unused garage, shed, or even a large dog crate, you may be able to save yourself some work and repurpose it as a chicken coop by adding the amenities mentioned above. If you are building the coop from scratch, choose a plan that fits your needs as described above. The method outlined below will help you build a simple coop, ideal for using in conjunction with an outdoor pen. If that does not fit your needs, you can find hundreds of plans by searching \\\"Chicken coop building plans\\\" in your favorite search engine.\\nConsider convenience. Remember that you will need to clean out the chicken coop, as well as regularly change the food and water. If you do not want to build a coop that is large enough to stand up in, look for a plan that gives you a few options, such as multiple \\\"access doors.\\\"\\nIf you decide to repurpose an old structure, avoid lumber that's been coated with lead paint or that was used to house harmful chemicals, or you risk damaging the health of both you and your chickens.\\n2. Floor and Wall Construction\\n2-1. Scale the measurements.\\nThis basic coop is 4 feet (1.2 m) by 6 feet (1.8 m) (24 square feet of floor space). If you need more or less space, feel free to scale the measurements accordingly.\\n2-2. Build the floor.\\nTo make both building and cleaning as easy as possible, start with a piece of plywood cut to the ideal size (in this case, 4 feet by 6 feet). Be sure that the plywood is between ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) and ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) thick.\\nIf you are cutting the plywood yourself, use a straight edge and an easy-to-see pen to make lines before you cut.\\nScrew on the frame. To keep the floor sturdy, screw 2x4s around the bottom perimeter. You may also want to screw one across the middle of the floor for extra security. To ensure a tight joint on the corners, use a long pipe clamp.\\n2-3. Build the solid wall.\\nThis is the only one of the walls that will not have an opening, and thus it is the easiest to build. Use a 6 foot (1.8 m) long, ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick piece of plywood. Screw 2x2s to the underside of the vertical edges. Be sure that the 2x2s stop 4 inches (10.2 cm) from the bottom of the plywood.\\n2-4. Connect the floor to the wall.\\nPlace the wall on the floor so that the extra 4 inches (10.2 cm) of plywood covers the 2x4s on the underside of the floor. Then, secure the wall in place using 1 ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) screws and construction glue.\\n2-5. Make the front panel.\\nUse 1 and 1/2 inch screws and construction glue to attach a 4 foot (1.2 m) long, ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick piece of plywood to the front of the coop. Screw the plywood into the 2x4s on the bottom of the coop and the 2x2s on the solid side wall. Then, cut the door opening.\\nPlan the front door opening before you cut. The door opening should be 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) wide. Cut the height according to your preferences, but keep in mind that you should leave 6 to 10 inches (15.2 to 25.4 cm) between the edges of the door and the top and bottom of the plywood panel.\\nUse a Jigsaw to make the cut. This will give you the easiest, smoothest cut. When you are done, reinforce the top of the door using a piece of scrap wood about 20 inches (50.8 cm) long and thick enough to attach using plenty of screws and glue.\\n2-6. Build the back wall.\\nAttach the second 4 foot (1.2 m) piece of plywood to the back of the coop using the same method as you did for the front panel. Then, cut and reinforce the door opening, again as you did for the front.\\n2-7. Construct the last wall.\\nThis will be done using 3 smaller pieces of plywood, rather than one large piece. To begin, cut two 2 foot (0.6 m) long pieces of plywood, and one 4 to 5 foot (1.2 to 1.5 m) long piece of plywood that is 1/2 as wide as your coop is tall. Then, attach a 2x2 to the underside of one of the vertical edges of a 2 foot (0.6 m) long piece of plywood. Repeat this step on the second 2 foot (0.6 m) long piece of plywood.\\nAs with the other side, be sure that the 2x2s stop 4 inches (10.2 cm) from the bottom of the plywood. This will allow the plywood to hang down over the 2x4s on the underside of the floor.\\n2-8. Attach the wall.\\nScrew one 2 foot (0.6 m) long panel directly next to the front of the coop, and the other directly next to the back. Attach the longer panel between the 2 foot (0.6 m) long panels. Be sure to line the edge up with the tops of the 2 foot (0.6 m) panels so that the opening is near the floor.\\nReinforce the middle panel by attaching two pieces of scrap wood where the panel joins with the two side panels. Be sure that the scrap wood is as long (vertically) as your middle panel.\\n3. Roof Construction\\n3-1. Cut out your gables.\\nA gable is a triangular piece of wood that sits on top of the front and back walls of the coop, supporting the roof. Therefore, in this case, both gables should be 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Use a Jigsaw to cut the gables out of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) thick oriented strand board.\\nUse an angle finder to determine the exact pitch of the roof. If you don't have an angle finder, you can eyeball the pitch (just make sure it's the same for both gables!)\\nNotch the gables. In order for the gables to fit correctly, you'll need to make notches where you reinforced the openings. If the wood you used for the front is exactly the same size as the back, you can make exactly the same cut on both gables. However, if you used scrap wood, you'll need to make unique cuts for each gable.\\n3-2. Screw on the gables.\\nPlace the front gable against the inside of the front wall and attach it using construction glue and screws. Repeat for the back gable.\\nIt's okay if there is a little bit of wiggle room between the reinforcement wood and the notches. The important thing is that the gable is sturdy once attached to the wall.\\n3-3. Build a truss.\\nThe truss, like a gable, supports the roof. However, rather than supporting the ends of the roof, the truss supports the middle. To ensure that the angle of your truss matches the angle of your gables, clamp two 2x2s to the slanted edges of one of your gables. Be sure that the 2x2s hang slightly longer (2 to 4 inches) than the edges of the gable.\\nStrengthen your truss by cutting a crosstie from ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) thick plywood. Cut it to the same measurements as your gable, and then screw it to the 2x2s.\\n3-4. Notch the truss.\\nOnce you've screwed the crosstie to the 2x2s, you can remove the clamps. Rest the truss in the middle of the coop and mark where the side walls intersect the 2x2s of the truss. Then, make a ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) notch in the wood where you put each mark. This will allow you to slip the truss onto the top of the side walls.\\n3-5. Make the roof.\\nTo make a simple roof, join two 40 inch (101.6 cm) by 84 inch (213.4 cm) pieces of plywood with some inexpensive hinges. Be sure to join them along the 84 inch (213.4 cm) sides so that the roof with cover the entire chicken coop.\\nPlace the roof on top of the coop. Check to see that there is an overhang at both the front and back of the coop. The overhang is necessary for both structural and aesthetic reasons.\\n3-6. Build a gable trim.\\nScrew a pair of 2x2s to bottom edge of the front and back overhangs. In addition to looking nice, this will stiffen the roof and help prevent structural failures.\\n3-7. Attach and finish the roof.\\nScrew the roof to the truss and gables. Then, add a roof top cap to keep the roof weather-proof. The easiest way to do this is to cover the roof with a layer of tar paper and galvanized roofing. Attach the tar paper with staples and use exterior-grade screws for the galvanized roofing.\\n4. Door Installation\\n4-1. Cut the wood.\\nUse a well finished medium-density fiberboard for the doors. The size of the pieces will depend on the chosen height of your chicken coop. Each door should be as tall and half as wide as the door opening.\\n4-2. Install a door frame.\\nScrew a 2x2 along each side of each door opening, as well as along the tops. This will give you a sturdy place to screw the door hinges.\\n4-3. Attach the front doors.\\nScrew in two hinges per door—one about four inches from the top of the door and the other about four inches from the bottom. Note that you may need a third hinge directly in the middle, depending on how tall your chicken coop is.\\n4-4. Repeat this process for the other two openings.\\nYou can use the same measurements for the back of the coop as you did for the front, but remember to take new measurements for the doors on the side of the coop.\\n4-5. Add closures.\\nBrass hook catches are an inexpensive, efficient closure to use, but any type of closure will work, so long as it is not easily opened by common predators such as dogs or skunks.\\n5. Raising the Coop\\n5-1. Add legs.\\nWhile not necessary, a raised chicken coop with give your flock added protection from predators, as well as help to keep them dry during rain or snow.\\nUse four 2x4s for the legs. Use beefy screws to attach them to the 2x4s on the bottom corners of the chicken coop.\\n5-2. Build a ladder.\\nAttach 2x2s to a 2x4 to make a ladder that will be easy for your chickens to use, while still being too narrow for predators. Attach the ladder with a small hinge.\\nTips\\nPainting your coop adds protection against weathering. This will also make the coop more aesthetically pleasing.\\nPosition open windows or vents towards the east so that the morning sun wakes up the hens. This will help both with egg production and overall flock happiness—the more sunlight, the less cooped up (so to speak) they'll feel.\\nYou could add wood shavings instead of newspaper as well. You can add a plant to the wood to make it more pleasing and a snack for your chickens.\\nWarnings\\nChicken use their gizzards to grind their food. Your soil should therefore have enough grit, if this is not so they will need an additional source of grit.\\nBe sure and build a design that is right for your climate. If you build a primarily wire coop in a location that receives a lot of snow and cold your chickens will suffer from frostbite in the winters. Likewise, a coop designed to keep chickens warm could cause overheating in places with hot summers.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"It's storming, you're bored, and you've just inherited some chickens. You could sit on your couch and count the minutes. Or, you could dig out the toolkit and those scraps of wood in your garage and put together a home for your new fowl.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide on the size of your chicken coop.\", \"描述\": \"The ideal size of a coop changes drastically, depending on the type of coop and how many chickens you have. Below are some rules of thumb for some of the most common types of chicken coops:\\n\\nCoop without an outdoor pen: This is the most basic type of chicken coop, consisting only of the physical indoor structure. The chickens will be confined to the indoor space until someone specifically lets them out, so allow at least 5 square feet per chicken.\\nOutdoor chicken run: This is slightly more difficult to build than the simple coop, but it will allow your chickens more space, as well as the option of being outside. Allow 2 to 3 square feet per chicken for the coop, and at least 4 square feet per chicken for the outside run.\\nWinter only coop: This coop is used to keep chickens inside during the winter months. Since it is unlikely that the chickens will be allowed outside during sad months, allow between 7 and 10 square feet per chicken.\\nNote that egg-laying hens will also require a nesting area of at least 1 square foot per 4 hens, as well as a roosting area of 6 to 10 inches (15.2 to 25.4 cm) per chicken. Roosts should be at least 2 feet (0.6 m) off the ground (the elevation will keep your chickens dry during wet weather).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a location for the coop.\", \"描述\": \"If possible, place your coop partially underneath a large tree, which will offer shade in the summer and keep your chickens from overheating.\\nSunlight encourages egg-laying, so try not to place your coop directly in the shade. Alternatively, you can use warm yellow lights inside the coop to increase egg production (white or blue light will have no effect).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Know what you will need to put inside the coop.\", \"描述\": \"The more you add inside the coop, the less space the chickens will have. Therefore, it is important to have a clear idea of the objects you will be putting inside so that you can account for the loss of space in your building plans.\\n\\nPerching Area. Often just a thick stick or piece of wood hung between the walls in the coop, and elevated perch allows for extra space, as well as a comfortable sleeping area for your chickens.\\n Nesting Area. You can make a nest by stuffing boxes or baskets with straw or sawdust. Without enough nesting space, your chickens will lay eggs on the ground, increasing the likelihood that they will break. Keep in mind that the average chicken will lay an egg every one to two days. The size of your nesting area should reflect both the number of chickens and how often you plan to collect eggs. In general, one nesting area per 4 to 5 hens should be sufficient.\\nOther than the fact that elevated nests will discourage predation, the height of your nests is not as important as the location. Be sure that the nests are placed in a clean, dry place, and that they are separate from the roosting area (or you risk chicken manure on your eggs!).\\n\\nVentilation. To avoid disease caused by stale air, proper ventilation systems are necessary. If you plan to build a year-round, closed coop, be sure to include little windows covered in chicken wire to allow for proper air flow.\\nDust Boxes. Chickens often clean themselves with dust bathing. To keep your chickens happy and smell-free, consider adding a couple boxes filled with dirt or sand.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decide whether to build a coop from scratch or repurpose an old structure.\", \"描述\": \"If you have an unused garage, shed, or even a large dog crate, you may be able to save yourself some work and repurpose it as a chicken coop by adding the amenities mentioned above. If you are building the coop from scratch, choose a plan that fits your needs as described above. The method outlined below will help you build a simple coop, ideal for using in conjunction with an outdoor pen. If that does not fit your needs, you can find hundreds of plans by searching \\\"Chicken coop building plans\\\" in your favorite search engine.\\nConsider convenience. Remember that you will need to clean out the chicken coop, as well as regularly change the food and water. If you do not want to build a coop that is large enough to stand up in, look for a plan that gives you a few options, such as multiple \\\"access doors.\\\"\\nIf you decide to repurpose an old structure, avoid lumber that's been coated with lead paint or that was used to house harmful chemicals, or you risk damaging the health of both you and your chickens.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Floor and Wall Construction\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Scale the measurements.\", \"描述\": \"This basic coop is 4 feet (1.2 m) by 6 feet (1.8 m) (24 square feet of floor space). If you need more or less space, feel free to scale the measurements accordingly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the floor.\", \"描述\": \"To make both building and cleaning as easy as possible, start with a piece of plywood cut to the ideal size (in this case, 4 feet by 6 feet). Be sure that the plywood is between ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) and ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) thick.\\nIf you are cutting the plywood yourself, use a straight edge and an easy-to-see pen to make lines before you cut.\\nScrew on the frame. To keep the floor sturdy, screw 2x4s around the bottom perimeter. You may also want to screw one across the middle of the floor for extra security. To ensure a tight joint on the corners, use a long pipe clamp.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the solid wall.\", \"描述\": \"This is the only one of the walls that will not have an opening, and thus it is the easiest to build. Use a 6 foot (1.8 m) long, ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick piece of plywood. Screw 2x2s to the underside of the vertical edges. Be sure that the 2x2s stop 4 inches (10.2 cm) from the bottom of the plywood.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the floor to the wall.\", \"描述\": \"Place the wall on the floor so that the extra 4 inches (10.2 cm) of plywood covers the 2x4s on the underside of the floor. Then, secure the wall in place using 1 ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) screws and construction glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make the front panel.\", \"描述\": \"Use 1 and 1/2 inch screws and construction glue to attach a 4 foot (1.2 m) long, ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick piece of plywood to the front of the coop. Screw the plywood into the 2x4s on the bottom of the coop and the 2x2s on the solid side wall. Then, cut the door opening.\\nPlan the front door opening before you cut. The door opening should be 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) wide. Cut the height according to your preferences, but keep in mind that you should leave 6 to 10 inches (15.2 to 25.4 cm) between the edges of the door and the top and bottom of the plywood panel.\\nUse a Jigsaw to make the cut. This will give you the easiest, smoothest cut. When you are done, reinforce the top of the door using a piece of scrap wood about 20 inches (50.8 cm) long and thick enough to attach using plenty of screws and glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build the back wall.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the second 4 foot (1.2 m) piece of plywood to the back of the coop using the same method as you did for the front panel. Then, cut and reinforce the door opening, again as you did for the front.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Construct the last wall.\", \"描述\": \"This will be done using 3 smaller pieces of plywood, rather than one large piece. To begin, cut two 2 foot (0.6 m) long pieces of plywood, and one 4 to 5 foot (1.2 to 1.5 m) long piece of plywood that is 1/2 as wide as your coop is tall. Then, attach a 2x2 to the underside of one of the vertical edges of a 2 foot (0.6 m) long piece of plywood. Repeat this step on the second 2 foot (0.6 m) long piece of plywood.\\nAs with the other side, be sure that the 2x2s stop 4 inches (10.2 cm) from the bottom of the plywood. This will allow the plywood to hang down over the 2x4s on the underside of the floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach the wall.\", \"描述\": \"Screw one 2 foot (0.6 m) long panel directly next to the front of the coop, and the other directly next to the back. Attach the longer panel between the 2 foot (0.6 m) long panels. Be sure to line the edge up with the tops of the 2 foot (0.6 m) panels so that the opening is near the floor.\\nReinforce the middle panel by attaching two pieces of scrap wood where the panel joins with the two side panels. Be sure that the scrap wood is as long (vertically) as your middle panel.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Roof Construction\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut out your gables.\", \"描述\": \"A gable is a triangular piece of wood that sits on top of the front and back walls of the coop, supporting the roof. Therefore, in this case, both gables should be 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Use a Jigsaw to cut the gables out of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) thick oriented strand board.\\nUse an angle finder to determine the exact pitch of the roof. If you don't have an angle finder, you can eyeball the pitch (just make sure it's the same for both gables!)\\nNotch the gables. In order for the gables to fit correctly, you'll need to make notches where you reinforced the openings. If the wood you used for the front is exactly the same size as the back, you can make exactly the same cut on both gables. However, if you used scrap wood, you'll need to make unique cuts for each gable.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw on the gables.\", \"描述\": \"Place the front gable against the inside of the front wall and attach it using construction glue and screws. Repeat for the back gable.\\nIt's okay if there is a little bit of wiggle room between the reinforcement wood and the notches. The important thing is that the gable is sturdy once attached to the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a truss.\", \"描述\": \"The truss, like a gable, supports the roof. However, rather than supporting the ends of the roof, the truss supports the middle. To ensure that the angle of your truss matches the angle of your gables, clamp two 2x2s to the slanted edges of one of your gables. Be sure that the 2x2s hang slightly longer (2 to 4 inches) than the edges of the gable.\\nStrengthen your truss by cutting a crosstie from ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) thick plywood. Cut it to the same measurements as your gable, and then screw it to the 2x2s.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Notch the truss.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've screwed the crosstie to the 2x2s, you can remove the clamps. Rest the truss in the middle of the coop and mark where the side walls intersect the 2x2s of the truss. Then, make a ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) notch in the wood where you put each mark. This will allow you to slip the truss onto the top of the side walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make the roof.\", \"描述\": \"To make a simple roof, join two 40 inch (101.6 cm) by 84 inch (213.4 cm) pieces of plywood with some inexpensive hinges. Be sure to join them along the 84 inch (213.4 cm) sides so that the roof with cover the entire chicken coop.\\nPlace the roof on top of the coop. Check to see that there is an overhang at both the front and back of the coop. The overhang is necessary for both structural and aesthetic reasons.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build a gable trim.\", \"描述\": \"Screw a pair of 2x2s to bottom edge of the front and back overhangs. In addition to looking nice, this will stiffen the roof and help prevent structural failures.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach and finish the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Screw the roof to the truss and gables. Then, add a roof top cap to keep the roof weather-proof. The easiest way to do this is to cover the roof with a layer of tar paper and galvanized roofing. Attach the tar paper with staples and use exterior-grade screws for the galvanized roofing.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Door Installation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the wood.\", \"描述\": \"Use a well finished medium-density fiberboard for the doors. The size of the pieces will depend on the chosen height of your chicken coop. Each door should be as tall and half as wide as the door opening.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install a door frame.\", \"描述\": \"Screw a 2x2 along each side of each door opening, as well as along the tops. This will give you a sturdy place to screw the door hinges.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the front doors.\", \"描述\": \"Screw in two hinges per door—one about four inches from the top of the door and the other about four inches from the bottom. Note that you may need a third hinge directly in the middle, depending on how tall your chicken coop is.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat this process for the other two openings.\", \"描述\": \"You can use the same measurements for the back of the coop as you did for the front, but remember to take new measurements for the doors on the side of the coop.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add closures.\", \"描述\": \"Brass hook catches are an inexpensive, efficient closure to use, but any type of closure will work, so long as it is not easily opened by common predators such as dogs or skunks.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Raising the Coop\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add legs.\", \"描述\": \"While not necessary, a raised chicken coop with give your flock added protection from predators, as well as help to keep them dry during rain or snow.\\nUse four 2x4s for the legs. Use beefy screws to attach them to the 2x4s on the bottom corners of the chicken coop.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a ladder.\", \"描述\": \"Attach 2x2s to a 2x4 to make a ladder that will be easy for your chickens to use, while still being too narrow for predators. Attach the ladder with a small hinge.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Painting your coop adds protection against weathering. This will also make the coop more aesthetically pleasing.\\n\", \"Position open windows or vents towards the east so that the morning sun wakes up the hens. This will help both with egg production and overall flock happiness—the more sunlight, the less cooped up (so to speak) they'll feel.\\n\", \"You could add wood shavings instead of newspaper as well. You can add a plant to the wood to make it more pleasing and a snack for your chickens.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Chicken use their gizzards to grind their food. Your soil should therefore have enough grit, if this is not so they will need an additional source of grit.\\n\", \"Be sure and build a design that is right for your climate. If you build a primarily wire coop in a location that receives a lot of snow and cold your chickens will suffer from frostbite in the winters. Likewise, a coop designed to keep chickens warm could cause overheating in places with hot summers.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,268 |
How to Build a Chicken Run
|
1. Planning the Size and Location
1-1. Create at least 10 sq ft (0.93 m) of outdoor space per chicken.
Count how many chickens you have and calculate the total area your run needs to be. For example, if you have 10 chickens, you would need 100 sq ft (9.3 m) minimum for your chickens to be comfortable.
Build your chicken run larger than you need if you plan to grow your flock in the coming years.
1-2. Plan the layout of your run next to your chicken coop.
Lay boards on the ground to get an idea of the shape and size your chicken run will be. Aim to make the sides similar in length rather than long and narrow. This gives your chickens more room for roaming around.
Measure the planned length and width of the run to find the total area. Compare the area of the chicken run to the minimum requirement for the size of your flock.
Make sure one of the sides aligns with the small door built into the coop so the chickens can get in and out. If your coop doesn’t have a small door, cut one into the side with a saw.
Think about where you want to install the gate so you can access the run easily.
Account for how tall you need to make your run. You should comfortably be able to walk in and out of the run once it’s finished, so it should be over 6 ft (1.8 m) tall.
1-3. Keep the run in the shade in warmer climates.
Temperatures consistently over 90 °F (32 °C) can be lethal for chickens if they’re in direct heat. Chickens adapt to the cold better than the heat, so make sure the run isn’t in direct heat. Build your run so it has tree cover or another source of consistent shade throughout the day.
Plant new trees near your run if you don’t have any existing shade.
1-4. Let the run get full sun in cooler climates.
Chickens can easily survive in low temperatures, but they don’t want to be cold all of the time. If you live in a climate that gets below 20 °F (−7 °C) often, make sure your run isn’t shaded.
Find an area that gets even amounts of sun and shade throughout the day if you live in a climate that gets extreme highs and lows.
2. Placing Posts and Building the Frame
2-1. Dig a hole 12 in (30 cm) deep for your first fence post.
Place the first 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) fence post about 3 ft (0.91 m) from your coop so you can place a gate there. Use a shovel or a post digger to make a hole that is 6 in (15 cm) on each side.
Make sure your fence posts are at least 7 ft (2.1 m) tall.
Place a 2 in (5.1 cm) layer of gravel on the bottom of the hole to protect the post’s end from moisture.
Opt for a rot-resistant wood like cedar or white oak for your fence posts and supports.
2-2. Set the post
Hold the pole firmly while you fill it back in with the dirt you removed. Compact the dirt with the bottom of your shovel or with your foot around the entire post. Use the extra dirt to form a mound around the bottom of the post to keep it in place.
Make concrete to fill your hole to keep your post from rotting in the future if you want.
2-3. Space the other fence posts 6 to 8 ft (1.8 to 2.4 m) from one another.
Use a tape measure to make sure the fence posts are equal distances apart so your chicken run has even support. Make sure the posts on opposite sides are in line with one another. Dig a hole and place the posts until they’re all set.
If your run is larger than 10 ft (3.0 m) wide, put a fence post inside the run for an added support beam. Make sure the post is in line with the outer posts on each side.
Saw the tops of the fence posts to the same height if they aren’t on level ground. Use a handsaw and a level so all of your posts are the same height. Make your chicken run at least 6 ft (1.8 m) tall so you can easily walk inside.
2-4. Attach 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards across the top of the run.
Run the boards horizontally so they go from one fence post on one side to a post on the other side. Use a drill with the screwdriver bit attached to attach 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws to the top of the fence posts.
If you have supports in the middle of your run, make sure to attach screws to them as well.
3. Installing the Fencing
3-1. Use ⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) welded wire to keep out predators.
Calculate the area of fencing you need by measuring the height and length of one side of your run and multiplying them together. Add 4 inches (10 cm) to each height measurement as excess. Repeat this for each side as well as the top of the run and add the areas together to find the total amount of fencing you need.
Fencing can be purchased at your local hardware or farm animal care stores.
The wire is small enough so raccoons, foxes, and weasels are kept out of your run and coop.
If you have larger predators in your area, such as bears, use a chain link dog fence wrapped in smaller welded wires to protect your birds.
Fencing on top of the chicken run will help protect your flock from owls, hawks, and other predatory birds.
3-2. Dig a 4 in (10 cm) deep trench around the perimeter of your run.
Use a shovel to dig your trench. Place the bottom of your fence in the trench on the outside of the fence posts and fill the dirt back in. Having your fence below the ground will protect your flock from digging animals like foxes and coyotes.
3-3. Staple the fence every 6 in (15 cm) to the fence posts.
Wrap the fence horizontally around the outside of the fence posts. Use a staple gun or a hammer to drive U-shaped staples into the fence posts. Place the staple in the middle of the post so that the ends of the staple go into 2 different links.
Leave a gap in the fencing where you plan to hang your gate.
3-4. Lay the fence on top of the run.
Use a ladder to reach the top of your run and cover the entire area with fencing to keep out flying or climbing predators, like hawks or raccoons. Staple the fence on top of the posts you’ve set in the ground to secure it.
3-5. Frame your fence with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to secure it.
First, screw horizontal supports on the top, middle, and bottom of each fence post so the fence is sandwiched between the wood. Use your drill and wood screws to keep the boards in place and make sure they are flush with one another. Then add boards vertically between the horizontal supports by screwing them in every 1 ft (30 cm).
4. Adding Finishing Touches
4-1. Install a gate with a spring so the door shuts automatically.
Attach 2 hinges 18 in (46 cm) from the top and bottom of the fence post with screws and a drill. Hang the door so the bottom is flush with the ground. Screw in the hinges on the side of the door to attach it. Hook one end of a hooked spring to the fencing on the gate and the other end to the fencing of your run.
Gate doors can be purchased or built on your own.
Make sure the door opens out from the run. Otherwise, the spring won’t force the door closed.
Make sure the spring is tight and unstretched. This way, the gate will snap back into place after it’s been opened.
4-2. Line the bottom of the run with straw or a bedding alternative.
Spread chopped straw evenly on the ground of the run so your chickens feel comfortable while they are outside. Alternatives to straw are leaves, construction-grade sand, or wood shavings.
Chopped straw can be purchased at your local farm care store.
Rake your leaves into the run in the fall once they start to fall for free outdoor bedding.
Change the bedding once it starts to smell or once it looks soiled.
4-3. Place a container of food and water inside the run.
Cover the top of the feeder with foil so your chickens can’t get into it and so it is protected from the elements. Hang a chicken waterer from one of the supports on the top of your run with an eye-bolt so the water stays clean.
If your coop has enough space, keep your food and water inside to protect it from the elements and mold. Make sure the chickens all can fit comfortably inside along with them.
Warnings
Predatory birds or climbing predators will try to access your chickens through the top of the run. Cover it with fencing as well to make sure your birds are protected.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning the Size and Location\\n1-1. Create at least 10 sq ft (0.93 m) of outdoor space per chicken.\\nCount how many chickens you have and calculate the total area your run needs to be. For example, if you have 10 chickens, you would need 100 sq ft (9.3 m) minimum for your chickens to be comfortable.\\nBuild your chicken run larger than you need if you plan to grow your flock in the coming years.\\n1-2. Plan the layout of your run next to your chicken coop.\\nLay boards on the ground to get an idea of the shape and size your chicken run will be. Aim to make the sides similar in length rather than long and narrow. This gives your chickens more room for roaming around.\\nMeasure the planned length and width of the run to find the total area. Compare the area of the chicken run to the minimum requirement for the size of your flock.\\nMake sure one of the sides aligns with the small door built into the coop so the chickens can get in and out. If your coop doesn’t have a small door, cut one into the side with a saw.\\nThink about where you want to install the gate so you can access the run easily.\\nAccount for how tall you need to make your run. You should comfortably be able to walk in and out of the run once it’s finished, so it should be over 6 ft (1.8 m) tall.\\n1-3. Keep the run in the shade in warmer climates.\\nTemperatures consistently over 90 °F (32 °C) can be lethal for chickens if they’re in direct heat. Chickens adapt to the cold better than the heat, so make sure the run isn’t in direct heat. Build your run so it has tree cover or another source of consistent shade throughout the day.\\nPlant new trees near your run if you don’t have any existing shade.\\n1-4. Let the run get full sun in cooler climates.\\nChickens can easily survive in low temperatures, but they don’t want to be cold all of the time. If you live in a climate that gets below 20 °F (−7 °C) often, make sure your run isn’t shaded.\\nFind an area that gets even amounts of sun and shade throughout the day if you live in a climate that gets extreme highs and lows.\\n2. Placing Posts and Building the Frame\\n2-1. Dig a hole 12 in (30 cm) deep for your first fence post.\\nPlace the first 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) fence post about 3 ft (0.91 m) from your coop so you can place a gate there. Use a shovel or a post digger to make a hole that is 6 in (15 cm) on each side.\\nMake sure your fence posts are at least 7 ft (2.1 m) tall.\\nPlace a 2 in (5.1 cm) layer of gravel on the bottom of the hole to protect the post’s end from moisture.\\nOpt for a rot-resistant wood like cedar or white oak for your fence posts and supports.\\n2-2. Set the post\\nHold the pole firmly while you fill it back in with the dirt you removed. Compact the dirt with the bottom of your shovel or with your foot around the entire post. Use the extra dirt to form a mound around the bottom of the post to keep it in place.\\nMake concrete to fill your hole to keep your post from rotting in the future if you want.\\n2-3. Space the other fence posts 6 to 8 ft (1.8 to 2.4 m) from one another.\\nUse a tape measure to make sure the fence posts are equal distances apart so your chicken run has even support. Make sure the posts on opposite sides are in line with one another. Dig a hole and place the posts until they’re all set.\\nIf your run is larger than 10 ft (3.0 m) wide, put a fence post inside the run for an added support beam. Make sure the post is in line with the outer posts on each side.\\nSaw the tops of the fence posts to the same height if they aren’t on level ground. Use a handsaw and a level so all of your posts are the same height. Make your chicken run at least 6 ft (1.8 m) tall so you can easily walk inside.\\n2-4. Attach 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards across the top of the run.\\nRun the boards horizontally so they go from one fence post on one side to a post on the other side. Use a drill with the screwdriver bit attached to attach 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws to the top of the fence posts.\\nIf you have supports in the middle of your run, make sure to attach screws to them as well.\\n3. Installing the Fencing\\n3-1. Use ⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) welded wire to keep out predators.\\nCalculate the area of fencing you need by measuring the height and length of one side of your run and multiplying them together. Add 4 inches (10 cm) to each height measurement as excess. Repeat this for each side as well as the top of the run and add the areas together to find the total amount of fencing you need.\\nFencing can be purchased at your local hardware or farm animal care stores.\\nThe wire is small enough so raccoons, foxes, and weasels are kept out of your run and coop.\\nIf you have larger predators in your area, such as bears, use a chain link dog fence wrapped in smaller welded wires to protect your birds.\\nFencing on top of the chicken run will help protect your flock from owls, hawks, and other predatory birds.\\n3-2. Dig a 4 in (10 cm) deep trench around the perimeter of your run.\\nUse a shovel to dig your trench. Place the bottom of your fence in the trench on the outside of the fence posts and fill the dirt back in. Having your fence below the ground will protect your flock from digging animals like foxes and coyotes.\\n3-3. Staple the fence every 6 in (15 cm) to the fence posts.\\nWrap the fence horizontally around the outside of the fence posts. Use a staple gun or a hammer to drive U-shaped staples into the fence posts. Place the staple in the middle of the post so that the ends of the staple go into 2 different links.\\nLeave a gap in the fencing where you plan to hang your gate.\\n3-4. Lay the fence on top of the run.\\nUse a ladder to reach the top of your run and cover the entire area with fencing to keep out flying or climbing predators, like hawks or raccoons. Staple the fence on top of the posts you’ve set in the ground to secure it.\\n3-5. Frame your fence with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to secure it.\\nFirst, screw horizontal supports on the top, middle, and bottom of each fence post so the fence is sandwiched between the wood. Use your drill and wood screws to keep the boards in place and make sure they are flush with one another. Then add boards vertically between the horizontal supports by screwing them in every 1 ft (30 cm).\\n4. Adding Finishing Touches\\n4-1. Install a gate with a spring so the door shuts automatically.\\nAttach 2 hinges 18 in (46 cm) from the top and bottom of the fence post with screws and a drill. Hang the door so the bottom is flush with the ground. Screw in the hinges on the side of the door to attach it. Hook one end of a hooked spring to the fencing on the gate and the other end to the fencing of your run.\\nGate doors can be purchased or built on your own.\\nMake sure the door opens out from the run. Otherwise, the spring won’t force the door closed.\\nMake sure the spring is tight and unstretched. This way, the gate will snap back into place after it’s been opened.\\n4-2. Line the bottom of the run with straw or a bedding alternative.\\nSpread chopped straw evenly on the ground of the run so your chickens feel comfortable while they are outside. Alternatives to straw are leaves, construction-grade sand, or wood shavings.\\nChopped straw can be purchased at your local farm care store.\\nRake your leaves into the run in the fall once they start to fall for free outdoor bedding.\\nChange the bedding once it starts to smell or once it looks soiled.\\n4-3. Place a container of food and water inside the run.\\nCover the top of the feeder with foil so your chickens can’t get into it and so it is protected from the elements. Hang a chicken waterer from one of the supports on the top of your run with an eye-bolt so the water stays clean.\\nIf your coop has enough space, keep your food and water inside to protect it from the elements and mold. Make sure the chickens all can fit comfortably inside along with them.\\nWarnings\\nPredatory birds or climbing predators will try to access your chickens through the top of the run. Cover it with fencing as well to make sure your birds are protected.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Are your chickens cooped up but you want to let them run outside? A chicken run, or an outdoor pen attached to the coop, will help solve your problems and protect your birds from any predators that may be lurking about. With standard tools and supplies that you can pick up from your hardware store, you can build your own safe enclosure and let your birds roam!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the Size and Location\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create at least 10 sq ft (0.93 m) of outdoor space per chicken.\", \"描述\": \"Count how many chickens you have and calculate the total area your run needs to be. For example, if you have 10 chickens, you would need 100 sq ft (9.3 m) minimum for your chickens to be comfortable.\\nBuild your chicken run larger than you need if you plan to grow your flock in the coming years.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan the layout of your run next to your chicken coop.\", \"描述\": \"Lay boards on the ground to get an idea of the shape and size your chicken run will be. Aim to make the sides similar in length rather than long and narrow. This gives your chickens more room for roaming around.\\nMeasure the planned length and width of the run to find the total area. Compare the area of the chicken run to the minimum requirement for the size of your flock.\\nMake sure one of the sides aligns with the small door built into the coop so the chickens can get in and out. If your coop doesn’t have a small door, cut one into the side with a saw.\\nThink about where you want to install the gate so you can access the run easily.\\nAccount for how tall you need to make your run. You should comfortably be able to walk in and out of the run once it’s finished, so it should be over 6 ft (1.8 m) tall.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep the run in the shade in warmer climates.\", \"描述\": \"Temperatures consistently over 90 °F (32 °C) can be lethal for chickens if they’re in direct heat. Chickens adapt to the cold better than the heat, so make sure the run isn’t in direct heat. Build your run so it has tree cover or another source of consistent shade throughout the day.\\nPlant new trees near your run if you don’t have any existing shade.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Let the run get full sun in cooler climates.\", \"描述\": \"Chickens can easily survive in low temperatures, but they don’t want to be cold all of the time. If you live in a climate that gets below 20 °F (−7 °C) often, make sure your run isn’t shaded.\\nFind an area that gets even amounts of sun and shade throughout the day if you live in a climate that gets extreme highs and lows.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Placing Posts and Building the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig a hole 12 in (30 cm) deep for your first fence post.\", \"描述\": \"Place the first 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) fence post about 3 ft (0.91 m) from your coop so you can place a gate there. Use a shovel or a post digger to make a hole that is 6 in (15 cm) on each side.\\nMake sure your fence posts are at least 7 ft (2.1 m) tall.\\nPlace a 2 in (5.1 cm) layer of gravel on the bottom of the hole to protect the post’s end from moisture.\\nOpt for a rot-resistant wood like cedar or white oak for your fence posts and supports.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set the post\", \"描述\": \"Hold the pole firmly while you fill it back in with the dirt you removed. Compact the dirt with the bottom of your shovel or with your foot around the entire post. Use the extra dirt to form a mound around the bottom of the post to keep it in place.\\nMake concrete to fill your hole to keep your post from rotting in the future if you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Space the other fence posts 6 to 8 ft (1.8 to 2.4 m) from one another.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tape measure to make sure the fence posts are equal distances apart so your chicken run has even support. Make sure the posts on opposite sides are in line with one another. Dig a hole and place the posts until they’re all set.\\nIf your run is larger than 10 ft (3.0 m) wide, put a fence post inside the run for an added support beam. Make sure the post is in line with the outer posts on each side.\\nSaw the tops of the fence posts to the same height if they aren’t on level ground. Use a handsaw and a level so all of your posts are the same height. Make your chicken run at least 6 ft (1.8 m) tall so you can easily walk inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards across the top of the run.\", \"描述\": \"Run the boards horizontally so they go from one fence post on one side to a post on the other side. Use a drill with the screwdriver bit attached to attach 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws to the top of the fence posts.\\nIf you have supports in the middle of your run, make sure to attach screws to them as well.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Fencing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use ⁄2 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) welded wire to keep out predators.\", \"描述\": \"Calculate the area of fencing you need by measuring the height and length of one side of your run and multiplying them together. Add 4 inches (10 cm) to each height measurement as excess. Repeat this for each side as well as the top of the run and add the areas together to find the total amount of fencing you need.\\nFencing can be purchased at your local hardware or farm animal care stores.\\nThe wire is small enough so raccoons, foxes, and weasels are kept out of your run and coop.\\nIf you have larger predators in your area, such as bears, use a chain link dog fence wrapped in smaller welded wires to protect your birds.\\nFencing on top of the chicken run will help protect your flock from owls, hawks, and other predatory birds.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig a 4 in (10 cm) deep trench around the perimeter of your run.\", \"描述\": \"Use a shovel to dig your trench. Place the bottom of your fence in the trench on the outside of the fence posts and fill the dirt back in. Having your fence below the ground will protect your flock from digging animals like foxes and coyotes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Staple the fence every 6 in (15 cm) to the fence posts.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap the fence horizontally around the outside of the fence posts. Use a staple gun or a hammer to drive U-shaped staples into the fence posts. Place the staple in the middle of the post so that the ends of the staple go into 2 different links.\\nLeave a gap in the fencing where you plan to hang your gate.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay the fence on top of the run.\", \"描述\": \"Use a ladder to reach the top of your run and cover the entire area with fencing to keep out flying or climbing predators, like hawks or raccoons. Staple the fence on top of the posts you’ve set in the ground to secure it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Frame your fence with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to secure it.\", \"描述\": \"First, screw horizontal supports on the top, middle, and bottom of each fence post so the fence is sandwiched between the wood. Use your drill and wood screws to keep the boards in place and make sure they are flush with one another. Then add boards vertically between the horizontal supports by screwing them in every 1 ft (30 cm).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Adding Finishing Touches\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install a gate with a spring so the door shuts automatically.\", \"描述\": \"Attach 2 hinges 18 in (46 cm) from the top and bottom of the fence post with screws and a drill. Hang the door so the bottom is flush with the ground. Screw in the hinges on the side of the door to attach it. Hook one end of a hooked spring to the fencing on the gate and the other end to the fencing of your run.\\nGate doors can be purchased or built on your own.\\nMake sure the door opens out from the run. Otherwise, the spring won’t force the door closed.\\nMake sure the spring is tight and unstretched. This way, the gate will snap back into place after it’s been opened.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Line the bottom of the run with straw or a bedding alternative.\", \"描述\": \"Spread chopped straw evenly on the ground of the run so your chickens feel comfortable while they are outside. Alternatives to straw are leaves, construction-grade sand, or wood shavings.\\nChopped straw can be purchased at your local farm care store.\\nRake your leaves into the run in the fall once they start to fall for free outdoor bedding.\\nChange the bedding once it starts to smell or once it looks soiled.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place a container of food and water inside the run.\", \"描述\": \"Cover the top of the feeder with foil so your chickens can’t get into it and so it is protected from the elements. Hang a chicken waterer from one of the supports on the top of your run with an eye-bolt so the water stays clean.\\nIf your coop has enough space, keep your food and water inside to protect it from the elements and mold. Make sure the chickens all can fit comfortably inside along with them.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Predatory birds or climbing predators will try to access your chickens through the top of the run. Cover it with fencing as well to make sure your birds are protected.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,269 |
How to Build a Child's Self Esteem
|
1. Praising Appropriately
1-1. Praise their effort rather than a trait or accomplishment.
When you praise a child, acknowledge the amount of effort they put into their activity. This encourages their hard work -- they realize their hard work is noticed and valued by others. Focusing praise on a result or a personality trait, however, emphasizes you value something they may not necessarily able to control.
For example, if your child shows you a picture they drew, praise the effort that went into it. You could say, “I can tell you spent a lot of time on this picture. Look how much detail you put on the bird’s feathers!” Do not praise the child for “being such a good artist” or blanket praise the picture with a non-specific “Good job!”
For example, if your child brings home a good grade on an exam, you could say, “I’m so proud of you! You studied hard for this unit, and it paid off.” This would be better than saying, “You’re always so smart in social studies!” or “That A+ will look great on our refrigerator!”
Focusing on intelligence and outcome can be problematic because there will be times when a subject doesn’t naturally come easily to them. There will also be times when they will work very hard and still fall short of their goal. Focusing on a characteristic or end result doesn’t encourage pride in one’s own effort.
1-2. Avoid insincere praising.
Adults often fall into the trap of too much praise, fearing that one non-positive comment will damage their children’s self-esteem. However, too much praise will seem insincere to the child. It can also create a sense of entitlement -- the child believes they can do no wrong -- and they may come to depend on it in order to accomplish anything.
Children may not develop an “internal cheerleader” that helps them feel good about themselves, if they are constantly hearing empty praise from others. Instead, they can be led to believe that they’re only good if someone tells them they are.
As a result of too much praise, children may be afraid to take risks and try new things. They begin to believe that their value lies in their accomplishments, rather than their efforts, and they are reluctant to set themselves up to fail with something new.
1-3. Encourage good behavior through targeted praise.
Acknowledge a completed chore, a positive sibling interaction, or other behaviors you’d like to encourage with appreciation. Naming the valued behavior in a positive way will help reinforce the behavior for your child.
For example, you could say, “Carlos, thank you for putting away your toys this afternoon without being asked. That was very helpful.”
2. Encouraging Resiliency
2-1. Remind them that no one is perfect.
Kids, like adults, are surrounded by images of people at the top of their game, succeeding and accomplishing important goals every day. Your child may be frustrated when they realize they can’t emulate their favorite singer or baseball player. Teach your child that no one is born knowing how to do anything perfectly.
2-2. Remind your child of the value of working toward a goal.
You could use their childhood idol as an example. You could say, “Yes, LeBron James is incredibly talented. But he didn’t just get where he was by walking in off the street and trying out for the team. When he was your age, I bet he was shooting baskets at the park every day.”
2-3. Help your child understand and set realistic expectations for themselves.
If a child is disappointed that they’re not a star tennis player, they are likely not going to feel very good about themselves. Help your child understand that most goals take a long time to accomplish, and that they can take baby steps every day to work towards that goal.Encourage them to be proud of the effort they put in and the progress they make, rather than focusing on how far they are from achieving a goal.
2-4. Choose correction over criticism.
Building a child’s self-esteem does not mean avoiding discipline. Ignoring a child’s mistakes means that you are depriving them an opportunity to learn from wrongdoings and make other choices to change their behavior in the future. Provide teaching opportunities while disciplining your child, rather than limiting your discipline to criticism.
Instead of saying, “Your dresser is a mess! All your clothes are just thrown in there and now they’re wrinkled! You can’t seem to keep anything neat!” you could say, “Have I shown you how to fold your clothes? Let me show you. It’s helpful to have a good way to organize your dresser, so you can find something easily. Your clothes won’t get so wrinkled, either.”
It’s okay to tell your child that you are upset with something they did. It’s important to teach a child that their behavior impacts other people. For example, you could say, “Mommy is very upset that you hit the baby. We never hit each other, because hitting hurts. What will you do the next time you are upset that the baby took your toy instead?”
Avoid name-calling or using loaded language when disciplining, like “You’re so clumsy!” or “Can’t you ever get this right?” If you find that you are losing your temper, give yourself a timeout.
Establish clear boundaries and rules in your home. Indicate consequences for not following the rules, and follow through with them as necessary. Your child will feel confident in knowing what is expected of them.
2-5. Use their natural talents to teach them about hard work.
If your child shows a natural ability in sports, the arts, or another area, give the child plenty of opportunity to develop those talents. If they are naturally talented in these areas, they will see how some effort will easily pay dividends. Then you can show them how hard work can carry over into other aspects of their lives.
A child’s talents and success will improve their self-esteem and make them feel more confident that they can accomplish goals in other areas.
If your child feels daunted by a difficult task, remind them of their previous successes. For example, “Do you remember your piano recital? You had a really difficult piece to play, but you practiced note by note and page by page until you mastered the piece. Because you worked so hard, you had an excellent performance. The same goes for your math homework. Look at this problem by problem and keep trying until you get it right.”
2-6. Encourage them to play sports.
Through athletics, kids learn that they can practice to improve their skills and achieve goals, building self-esteem. It also helps kids learn to handle setbacks and defeat.
Enroll your child in a team sport to learn teamwork, sportsmanship, and make new friends.
Allow your child to participate in the decision as much as possible. If there are a variety of sports to choose from in your area, let your child pick which one they would like to try out.
If your child is not into team sports, find a solo athletic activity they could participate in, like martial arts or dance.
Sports also help your child stay physically fit and healthy, which further boosts self-esteem.
2-7. Give them chores.
Children as young as two can have basic chores around the house. Having chores helps children feel more valuable, building self-esteem, and it also helps build resiliency and self-discipline. Sometimes work must happen before fun.
You may want to make a chore chart to help your child see their responsibilities and track their completion.
Assign chores according to age and ability. Give kids jobs that they will be able to complete with little to no adult supervision.
3. Helping Your Child’s Social Growth
3-1. Avoid making comparisons.
Don’t compare your child with their classmates, siblings, or even yourself as a child. Show your child that you value them as an individual, not by how they are better or worse than others.
Don’t say, “Your older brother was such a better reader at your age,” or “Why can’t you be more social, like your friend Bianca?”
If your child is worried about how they measure up against their peers, reassure them that you love them no matter what, and that everyone has different strengths and weaknesses. You could say, “I know Ian is the best in your class at math, so it must be really frustrating to sit next to him sometimes. But I know how creative you are, and how much you enjoy writing stories.”
3-2. Pay attention to your child’s friends.
Make sure your child is friends with other children who appreciate them and treat them with respect. You likely want your child to be surrounded by people who bring out the best in them and will help give them self-confidence, so monitor their friends and relationships closely.
Notice your child’s behavior after playing with a friend. If they do not seem like they are in a good mood following a playdate, it may be helpful to keep a closer eye on the relationship to ensure good compatibility with the friend. Good friendships have positive influences on a child’s self-esteem, but bad friendships can be harmful.
If you are concerned about your child’s friend being a bad influence on your child or that the friendship is incompatible, do not hesitate to intervene. Kids often need a lot of help figuring out how to have healthy friendships.
3-3. Create a welcoming environment for other children.
Welcome your child’s friends into your home. You will have a noisier home and more bags of pretzels to purchase, but you get the benefit of watching how your child interacts with their friends. If your child and their friends need extra assistance, you can step in and role model appropriate behavior.
If children are able to develop their self-confidence in social situations at home, the more likely they will remain confident in new social situations away from your watchful eye.
If kids aren’t getting along or behaving inappropriately, you can step in and correct the behavior. You could say, “In our house, we don’t exclude friends. Everybody is playing the game,” or “How do you think you could solve this problem? Both of you want to play with the truck.”
3-4. Spend time with your child.
If possible, schedule some one-on-one time with you and your child once a week. Have a special outing or set aside some time to just be together. This shows your child how much you value them and the time you spend together.
Younger children may want to play, while older children may want to do a special activity. Ask your child what they might like to do. You could give them a choice, for example, “Would you rather go to the park or go for a bike ride together tomorrow?”
3-5. Give your child plenty of opportunities for play.
Make sure your child has lots of opportunity for unstructured play during their day, both with and without others. Children learn through play, and through it they gain feelings of accomplishment and confidence.
Play with your child. Take time to play with your child as often as you can. Let them choose the activity -- it will make them feel important and special to know that you are playing “their” special game.
4. Role Modeling Self-Esteem for Your Child
4-1. Show them your love.
A child’s self-esteem begins with a parent or other trusted adult showing them love and acceptance. Laying this groundwork for them means that they can learn ways to love and accept themselves. Make it a point to frequently remind them that you love them.
Give them lots of hugs and kisses.
Snuggle up together and read a book.
Be responsive when they are upset. It shows that you are paying attention to them and what they have to say matters. Hold them when they cry and help them feel safe and loved as they express difficult feelings.
4-2. Express your feelings.
It’s okay to show your child that you are upset. Show how feelings can be expressed appropriately. Your child will see what those emotions look like, how you deal with anger or sadness, and it will increase your child’s emotional awareness.
Seeing you upset can help your child learn ways to make you (and others) feel better, boosting their self-confidence.
If your child spots you crying, you could say, “Yes, I’m sad right now. My friend told me some bad news. Sometimes when I’m sad it helps me feel better to cry. Do you ever feel better after you cry?”
4-3. Cultivate a positive body image.
Be proud of your body, and share your pride with your child. Avoid putting too much emphasis on the valuing the appearance of your or other people’s bodies. Role model body positivity so your child can know how to be proud of their body, as well.
You could say, “What I like best about my body is that I have arms to give you a hug! I like that I can run and swim and hike with my body. I also like how my eyes look brown in some light and green in others. What do you like best about your body?”
Participate in a race or other athletic event so your child can see you using your body in a healthy way.
Avoid criticizing your appearance in front of your child. Don’t complain about your weight or something about your appearance you dislike.
4-4. Avoid name-calling or sarcasm.
Being around children who are constantly demanding can be stressful, and a parent or other caregiver can feel overwhelmed by their needs. It can feel like an easy release to lash out or be sarcastic with your child, but diminishing their feelings only leads them to believe that their feelings are not important. Over the long term, this can harm their self-esteem.
If you are feeling stressed out or frustrated, try to take a short break from the child, even if it is just going into another room for a moment to collect yourself.
Role model appropriate behavior by not using name-calling words to describe other people. For example, when someone cuts you off while driving, don’t yell, “You idiot!” with your child in the car.
Apologize to your child if necessary. It role models how to say you’re sorry, and it helps a child feel secure that a grown-up can admit when they are wrong. Saying you’re sorry shows that you have good enough self-esteem to face the consequences of your actions.
You could say, “Miles, I’m sorry for not using kind words with you earlier. I was upset, and I should have taken a break rather than lash out at you. You didn’t do anything wrong, I did. I’m sorry I hurt your feelings.”
4-5. Model positive self-talk.
When you feel proud that you have accomplished a goal, let your child know. Celebrate your successes with your child. Talk about how mistakes you’ve made don’t make you a failure.
For example, if you get a promotion at work, share your news with your child. You could say, “I am so proud of myself today! I’ve been working on a project for a long time, and today my boss told me that I did such a great job on it, they know I am ready for more responsibility, so I am getting a higher position at work. I reached a goal, and I am feeling great!”
Role model what your child can say to themselves when they make a mistake, even a small one. For example, if you spill something in front of your child, you could say, “Oops, I just knocked over the water glass. I made a mistake, but I can fix it. I’ll get a towel. I screwed up, but it’s okay.”
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Praising Appropriately\\n1-1. Praise their effort rather than a trait or accomplishment.\\nWhen you praise a child, acknowledge the amount of effort they put into their activity. This encourages their hard work -- they realize their hard work is noticed and valued by others. Focusing praise on a result or a personality trait, however, emphasizes you value something they may not necessarily able to control.\\nFor example, if your child shows you a picture they drew, praise the effort that went into it. You could say, “I can tell you spent a lot of time on this picture. Look how much detail you put on the bird’s feathers!” Do not praise the child for “being such a good artist” or blanket praise the picture with a non-specific “Good job!”\\nFor example, if your child brings home a good grade on an exam, you could say, “I’m so proud of you! You studied hard for this unit, and it paid off.” This would be better than saying, “You’re always so smart in social studies!” or “That A+ will look great on our refrigerator!”\\nFocusing on intelligence and outcome can be problematic because there will be times when a subject doesn’t naturally come easily to them. There will also be times when they will work very hard and still fall short of their goal. Focusing on a characteristic or end result doesn’t encourage pride in one’s own effort.\\n1-2. Avoid insincere praising.\\nAdults often fall into the trap of too much praise, fearing that one non-positive comment will damage their children’s self-esteem. However, too much praise will seem insincere to the child. It can also create a sense of entitlement -- the child believes they can do no wrong -- and they may come to depend on it in order to accomplish anything.\\nChildren may not develop an “internal cheerleader” that helps them feel good about themselves, if they are constantly hearing empty praise from others. Instead, they can be led to believe that they’re only good if someone tells them they are.\\nAs a result of too much praise, children may be afraid to take risks and try new things. They begin to believe that their value lies in their accomplishments, rather than their efforts, and they are reluctant to set themselves up to fail with something new.\\n1-3. Encourage good behavior through targeted praise.\\nAcknowledge a completed chore, a positive sibling interaction, or other behaviors you’d like to encourage with appreciation. Naming the valued behavior in a positive way will help reinforce the behavior for your child.\\nFor example, you could say, “Carlos, thank you for putting away your toys this afternoon without being asked. That was very helpful.”\\n2. Encouraging Resiliency\\n2-1. Remind them that no one is perfect.\\nKids, like adults, are surrounded by images of people at the top of their game, succeeding and accomplishing important goals every day. Your child may be frustrated when they realize they can’t emulate their favorite singer or baseball player. Teach your child that no one is born knowing how to do anything perfectly.\\n2-2. Remind your child of the value of working toward a goal.\\nYou could use their childhood idol as an example. You could say, “Yes, LeBron James is incredibly talented. But he didn’t just get where he was by walking in off the street and trying out for the team. When he was your age, I bet he was shooting baskets at the park every day.”\\n2-3. Help your child understand and set realistic expectations for themselves.\\nIf a child is disappointed that they’re not a star tennis player, they are likely not going to feel very good about themselves. Help your child understand that most goals take a long time to accomplish, and that they can take baby steps every day to work towards that goal.Encourage them to be proud of the effort they put in and the progress they make, rather than focusing on how far they are from achieving a goal.\\n2-4. Choose correction over criticism.\\nBuilding a child’s self-esteem does not mean avoiding discipline. Ignoring a child’s mistakes means that you are depriving them an opportunity to learn from wrongdoings and make other choices to change their behavior in the future. Provide teaching opportunities while disciplining your child, rather than limiting your discipline to criticism.\\nInstead of saying, “Your dresser is a mess! All your clothes are just thrown in there and now they’re wrinkled! You can’t seem to keep anything neat!” you could say, “Have I shown you how to fold your clothes? Let me show you. It’s helpful to have a good way to organize your dresser, so you can find something easily. Your clothes won’t get so wrinkled, either.”\\nIt’s okay to tell your child that you are upset with something they did. It’s important to teach a child that their behavior impacts other people. For example, you could say, “Mommy is very upset that you hit the baby. We never hit each other, because hitting hurts. What will you do the next time you are upset that the baby took your toy instead?”\\nAvoid name-calling or using loaded language when disciplining, like “You’re so clumsy!” or “Can’t you ever get this right?” If you find that you are losing your temper, give yourself a timeout.\\nEstablish clear boundaries and rules in your home. Indicate consequences for not following the rules, and follow through with them as necessary. Your child will feel confident in knowing what is expected of them.\\n2-5. Use their natural talents to teach them about hard work.\\nIf your child shows a natural ability in sports, the arts, or another area, give the child plenty of opportunity to develop those talents. If they are naturally talented in these areas, they will see how some effort will easily pay dividends. Then you can show them how hard work can carry over into other aspects of their lives.\\nA child’s talents and success will improve their self-esteem and make them feel more confident that they can accomplish goals in other areas.\\nIf your child feels daunted by a difficult task, remind them of their previous successes. For example, “Do you remember your piano recital? You had a really difficult piece to play, but you practiced note by note and page by page until you mastered the piece. Because you worked so hard, you had an excellent performance. The same goes for your math homework. Look at this problem by problem and keep trying until you get it right.”\\n2-6. Encourage them to play sports.\\nThrough athletics, kids learn that they can practice to improve their skills and achieve goals, building self-esteem. It also helps kids learn to handle setbacks and defeat.\\nEnroll your child in a team sport to learn teamwork, sportsmanship, and make new friends.\\nAllow your child to participate in the decision as much as possible. If there are a variety of sports to choose from in your area, let your child pick which one they would like to try out.\\nIf your child is not into team sports, find a solo athletic activity they could participate in, like martial arts or dance.\\nSports also help your child stay physically fit and healthy, which further boosts self-esteem.\\n2-7. Give them chores.\\nChildren as young as two can have basic chores around the house. Having chores helps children feel more valuable, building self-esteem, and it also helps build resiliency and self-discipline. Sometimes work must happen before fun.\\nYou may want to make a chore chart to help your child see their responsibilities and track their completion.\\nAssign chores according to age and ability. Give kids jobs that they will be able to complete with little to no adult supervision.\\n3. Helping Your Child’s Social Growth\\n3-1. Avoid making comparisons.\\nDon’t compare your child with their classmates, siblings, or even yourself as a child. Show your child that you value them as an individual, not by how they are better or worse than others.\\nDon’t say, “Your older brother was such a better reader at your age,” or “Why can’t you be more social, like your friend Bianca?”\\nIf your child is worried about how they measure up against their peers, reassure them that you love them no matter what, and that everyone has different strengths and weaknesses. You could say, “I know Ian is the best in your class at math, so it must be really frustrating to sit next to him sometimes. But I know how creative you are, and how much you enjoy writing stories.”\\n3-2. Pay attention to your child’s friends.\\nMake sure your child is friends with other children who appreciate them and treat them with respect. You likely want your child to be surrounded by people who bring out the best in them and will help give them self-confidence, so monitor their friends and relationships closely.\\nNotice your child’s behavior after playing with a friend. If they do not seem like they are in a good mood following a playdate, it may be helpful to keep a closer eye on the relationship to ensure good compatibility with the friend. Good friendships have positive influences on a child’s self-esteem, but bad friendships can be harmful.\\nIf you are concerned about your child’s friend being a bad influence on your child or that the friendship is incompatible, do not hesitate to intervene. Kids often need a lot of help figuring out how to have healthy friendships.\\n3-3. Create a welcoming environment for other children.\\nWelcome your child’s friends into your home. You will have a noisier home and more bags of pretzels to purchase, but you get the benefit of watching how your child interacts with their friends. If your child and their friends need extra assistance, you can step in and role model appropriate behavior.\\nIf children are able to develop their self-confidence in social situations at home, the more likely they will remain confident in new social situations away from your watchful eye.\\nIf kids aren’t getting along or behaving inappropriately, you can step in and correct the behavior. You could say, “In our house, we don’t exclude friends. Everybody is playing the game,” or “How do you think you could solve this problem? Both of you want to play with the truck.”\\n3-4. Spend time with your child.\\nIf possible, schedule some one-on-one time with you and your child once a week. Have a special outing or set aside some time to just be together. This shows your child how much you value them and the time you spend together.\\nYounger children may want to play, while older children may want to do a special activity. Ask your child what they might like to do. You could give them a choice, for example, “Would you rather go to the park or go for a bike ride together tomorrow?”\\n3-5. Give your child plenty of opportunities for play.\\nMake sure your child has lots of opportunity for unstructured play during their day, both with and without others. Children learn through play, and through it they gain feelings of accomplishment and confidence.\\nPlay with your child. Take time to play with your child as often as you can. Let them choose the activity -- it will make them feel important and special to know that you are playing “their” special game.\\n4. Role Modeling Self-Esteem for Your Child\\n4-1. Show them your love.\\nA child’s self-esteem begins with a parent or other trusted adult showing them love and acceptance. Laying this groundwork for them means that they can learn ways to love and accept themselves. Make it a point to frequently remind them that you love them.\\nGive them lots of hugs and kisses.\\nSnuggle up together and read a book.\\nBe responsive when they are upset. It shows that you are paying attention to them and what they have to say matters. Hold them when they cry and help them feel safe and loved as they express difficult feelings.\\n4-2. Express your feelings.\\nIt’s okay to show your child that you are upset. Show how feelings can be expressed appropriately. Your child will see what those emotions look like, how you deal with anger or sadness, and it will increase your child’s emotional awareness.\\nSeeing you upset can help your child learn ways to make you (and others) feel better, boosting their self-confidence.\\nIf your child spots you crying, you could say, “Yes, I’m sad right now. My friend told me some bad news. Sometimes when I’m sad it helps me feel better to cry. Do you ever feel better after you cry?”\\n4-3. Cultivate a positive body image.\\nBe proud of your body, and share your pride with your child. Avoid putting too much emphasis on the valuing the appearance of your or other people’s bodies. Role model body positivity so your child can know how to be proud of their body, as well.\\nYou could say, “What I like best about my body is that I have arms to give you a hug! I like that I can run and swim and hike with my body. I also like how my eyes look brown in some light and green in others. What do you like best about your body?”\\nParticipate in a race or other athletic event so your child can see you using your body in a healthy way.\\nAvoid criticizing your appearance in front of your child. Don’t complain about your weight or something about your appearance you dislike.\\n4-4. Avoid name-calling or sarcasm.\\nBeing around children who are constantly demanding can be stressful, and a parent or other caregiver can feel overwhelmed by their needs. It can feel like an easy release to lash out or be sarcastic with your child, but diminishing their feelings only leads them to believe that their feelings are not important. Over the long term, this can harm their self-esteem.\\nIf you are feeling stressed out or frustrated, try to take a short break from the child, even if it is just going into another room for a moment to collect yourself.\\nRole model appropriate behavior by not using name-calling words to describe other people. For example, when someone cuts you off while driving, don’t yell, “You idiot!” with your child in the car.\\nApologize to your child if necessary. It role models how to say you’re sorry, and it helps a child feel secure that a grown-up can admit when they are wrong. Saying you’re sorry shows that you have good enough self-esteem to face the consequences of your actions.\\nYou could say, “Miles, I’m sorry for not using kind words with you earlier. I was upset, and I should have taken a break rather than lash out at you. You didn’t do anything wrong, I did. I’m sorry I hurt your feelings.”\\n4-5. Model positive self-talk.\\nWhen you feel proud that you have accomplished a goal, let your child know. Celebrate your successes with your child. Talk about how mistakes you’ve made don’t make you a failure.\\nFor example, if you get a promotion at work, share your news with your child. You could say, “I am so proud of myself today! I’ve been working on a project for a long time, and today my boss told me that I did such a great job on it, they know I am ready for more responsibility, so I am getting a higher position at work. I reached a goal, and I am feeling great!”\\nRole model what your child can say to themselves when they make a mistake, even a small one. For example, if you spill something in front of your child, you could say, “Oops, I just knocked over the water glass. I made a mistake, but I can fix it. I’ll get a towel. I screwed up, but it’s okay.”\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Ensuring a child’s self-esteem is an important component of raising or caring for a child. Children with good self-esteem have a good sense of belonging and being valued for who they are, think positively of themselves, and are willing to try new things. As a parent or other caring adult in a child’s life, you can help a child develop self-esteem by knowing correct ways to praise a child so they can feel proud of their efforts. Focusing on their efforts encourages resiliency, a stick-to-it attitude that helps kids feel good about themselves through working toward a goal. You can also help encourage good self-esteem by helping your child succeed in social situations, and you can role model behavior that shows how a person feels good about themselves.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Praising Appropriately\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Praise their effort rather than a trait or accomplishment.\", \"描述\": \"When you praise a child, acknowledge the amount of effort they put into their activity. This encourages their hard work -- they realize their hard work is noticed and valued by others. Focusing praise on a result or a personality trait, however, emphasizes you value something they may not necessarily able to control.\\nFor example, if your child shows you a picture they drew, praise the effort that went into it. You could say, “I can tell you spent a lot of time on this picture. Look how much detail you put on the bird’s feathers!” Do not praise the child for “being such a good artist” or blanket praise the picture with a non-specific “Good job!”\\nFor example, if your child brings home a good grade on an exam, you could say, “I’m so proud of you! You studied hard for this unit, and it paid off.” This would be better than saying, “You’re always so smart in social studies!” or “That A+ will look great on our refrigerator!”\\nFocusing on intelligence and outcome can be problematic because there will be times when a subject doesn’t naturally come easily to them. There will also be times when they will work very hard and still fall short of their goal. Focusing on a characteristic or end result doesn’t encourage pride in one’s own effort.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Avoid insincere praising.\", \"描述\": \"Adults often fall into the trap of too much praise, fearing that one non-positive comment will damage their children’s self-esteem. However, too much praise will seem insincere to the child. It can also create a sense of entitlement -- the child believes they can do no wrong -- and they may come to depend on it in order to accomplish anything.\\nChildren may not develop an “internal cheerleader” that helps them feel good about themselves, if they are constantly hearing empty praise from others. Instead, they can be led to believe that they’re only good if someone tells them they are.\\nAs a result of too much praise, children may be afraid to take risks and try new things. They begin to believe that their value lies in their accomplishments, rather than their efforts, and they are reluctant to set themselves up to fail with something new.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Encourage good behavior through targeted praise.\", \"描述\": \"Acknowledge a completed chore, a positive sibling interaction, or other behaviors you’d like to encourage with appreciation. Naming the valued behavior in a positive way will help reinforce the behavior for your child.\\nFor example, you could say, “Carlos, thank you for putting away your toys this afternoon without being asked. That was very helpful.”\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Encouraging Resiliency\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Remind them that no one is perfect.\", \"描述\": \"Kids, like adults, are surrounded by images of people at the top of their game, succeeding and accomplishing important goals every day. Your child may be frustrated when they realize they can’t emulate their favorite singer or baseball player. Teach your child that no one is born knowing how to do anything perfectly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remind your child of the value of working toward a goal.\", \"描述\": \"You could use their childhood idol as an example. You could say, “Yes, LeBron James is incredibly talented. But he didn’t just get where he was by walking in off the street and trying out for the team. When he was your age, I bet he was shooting baskets at the park every day.”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Help your child understand and set realistic expectations for themselves.\", \"描述\": \"If a child is disappointed that they’re not a star tennis player, they are likely not going to feel very good about themselves. Help your child understand that most goals take a long time to accomplish, and that they can take baby steps every day to work towards that goal.Encourage them to be proud of the effort they put in and the progress they make, rather than focusing on how far they are from achieving a goal.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose correction over criticism.\", \"描述\": \"Building a child’s self-esteem does not mean avoiding discipline. Ignoring a child’s mistakes means that you are depriving them an opportunity to learn from wrongdoings and make other choices to change their behavior in the future. Provide teaching opportunities while disciplining your child, rather than limiting your discipline to criticism.\\nInstead of saying, “Your dresser is a mess! All your clothes are just thrown in there and now they’re wrinkled! You can’t seem to keep anything neat!” you could say, “Have I shown you how to fold your clothes? Let me show you. It’s helpful to have a good way to organize your dresser, so you can find something easily. Your clothes won’t get so wrinkled, either.”\\nIt’s okay to tell your child that you are upset with something they did. It’s important to teach a child that their behavior impacts other people. For example, you could say, “Mommy is very upset that you hit the baby. We never hit each other, because hitting hurts. What will you do the next time you are upset that the baby took your toy instead?”\\nAvoid name-calling or using loaded language when disciplining, like “You’re so clumsy!” or “Can’t you ever get this right?” If you find that you are losing your temper, give yourself a timeout.\\nEstablish clear boundaries and rules in your home. Indicate consequences for not following the rules, and follow through with them as necessary. Your child will feel confident in knowing what is expected of them.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use their natural talents to teach them about hard work.\", \"描述\": \"If your child shows a natural ability in sports, the arts, or another area, give the child plenty of opportunity to develop those talents. If they are naturally talented in these areas, they will see how some effort will easily pay dividends. Then you can show them how hard work can carry over into other aspects of their lives.\\nA child’s talents and success will improve their self-esteem and make them feel more confident that they can accomplish goals in other areas.\\nIf your child feels daunted by a difficult task, remind them of their previous successes. For example, “Do you remember your piano recital? You had a really difficult piece to play, but you practiced note by note and page by page until you mastered the piece. Because you worked so hard, you had an excellent performance. The same goes for your math homework. Look at this problem by problem and keep trying until you get it right.”\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Encourage them to play sports.\", \"描述\": \"Through athletics, kids learn that they can practice to improve their skills and achieve goals, building self-esteem. It also helps kids learn to handle setbacks and defeat.\\nEnroll your child in a team sport to learn teamwork, sportsmanship, and make new friends.\\nAllow your child to participate in the decision as much as possible. If there are a variety of sports to choose from in your area, let your child pick which one they would like to try out.\\nIf your child is not into team sports, find a solo athletic activity they could participate in, like martial arts or dance.\\nSports also help your child stay physically fit and healthy, which further boosts self-esteem.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Give them chores.\", \"描述\": \"Children as young as two can have basic chores around the house. Having chores helps children feel more valuable, building self-esteem, and it also helps build resiliency and self-discipline. Sometimes work must happen before fun.\\nYou may want to make a chore chart to help your child see their responsibilities and track their completion.\\nAssign chores according to age and ability. Give kids jobs that they will be able to complete with little to no adult supervision.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Helping Your Child’s Social Growth\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Avoid making comparisons.\", \"描述\": \"Don’t compare your child with their classmates, siblings, or even yourself as a child. Show your child that you value them as an individual, not by how they are better or worse than others.\\nDon’t say, “Your older brother was such a better reader at your age,” or “Why can’t you be more social, like your friend Bianca?”\\nIf your child is worried about how they measure up against their peers, reassure them that you love them no matter what, and that everyone has different strengths and weaknesses. You could say, “I know Ian is the best in your class at math, so it must be really frustrating to sit next to him sometimes. But I know how creative you are, and how much you enjoy writing stories.”\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pay attention to your child’s friends.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure your child is friends with other children who appreciate them and treat them with respect. You likely want your child to be surrounded by people who bring out the best in them and will help give them self-confidence, so monitor their friends and relationships closely.\\nNotice your child’s behavior after playing with a friend. If they do not seem like they are in a good mood following a playdate, it may be helpful to keep a closer eye on the relationship to ensure good compatibility with the friend. Good friendships have positive influences on a child’s self-esteem, but bad friendships can be harmful.\\nIf you are concerned about your child’s friend being a bad influence on your child or that the friendship is incompatible, do not hesitate to intervene. Kids often need a lot of help figuring out how to have healthy friendships.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a welcoming environment for other children.\", \"描述\": \"Welcome your child’s friends into your home. You will have a noisier home and more bags of pretzels to purchase, but you get the benefit of watching how your child interacts with their friends. If your child and their friends need extra assistance, you can step in and role model appropriate behavior.\\nIf children are able to develop their self-confidence in social situations at home, the more likely they will remain confident in new social situations away from your watchful eye.\\nIf kids aren’t getting along or behaving inappropriately, you can step in and correct the behavior. You could say, “In our house, we don’t exclude friends. Everybody is playing the game,” or “How do you think you could solve this problem? Both of you want to play with the truck.”\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Spend time with your child.\", \"描述\": \"If possible, schedule some one-on-one time with you and your child once a week. Have a special outing or set aside some time to just be together. This shows your child how much you value them and the time you spend together.\\nYounger children may want to play, while older children may want to do a special activity. Ask your child what they might like to do. You could give them a choice, for example, “Would you rather go to the park or go for a bike ride together tomorrow?”\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Give your child plenty of opportunities for play.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure your child has lots of opportunity for unstructured play during their day, both with and without others. Children learn through play, and through it they gain feelings of accomplishment and confidence.\\nPlay with your child. Take time to play with your child as often as you can. Let them choose the activity -- it will make them feel important and special to know that you are playing “their” special game.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Role Modeling Self-Esteem for Your Child\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Show them your love.\", \"描述\": \"A child’s self-esteem begins with a parent or other trusted adult showing them love and acceptance. Laying this groundwork for them means that they can learn ways to love and accept themselves. Make it a point to frequently remind them that you love them.\\nGive them lots of hugs and kisses.\\nSnuggle up together and read a book.\\nBe responsive when they are upset. It shows that you are paying attention to them and what they have to say matters. Hold them when they cry and help them feel safe and loved as they express difficult feelings.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Express your feelings.\", \"描述\": \"It’s okay to show your child that you are upset. Show how feelings can be expressed appropriately. Your child will see what those emotions look like, how you deal with anger or sadness, and it will increase your child’s emotional awareness.\\nSeeing you upset can help your child learn ways to make you (and others) feel better, boosting their self-confidence.\\nIf your child spots you crying, you could say, “Yes, I’m sad right now. My friend told me some bad news. Sometimes when I’m sad it helps me feel better to cry. Do you ever feel better after you cry?”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cultivate a positive body image.\", \"描述\": \"Be proud of your body, and share your pride with your child. Avoid putting too much emphasis on the valuing the appearance of your or other people’s bodies. Role model body positivity so your child can know how to be proud of their body, as well.\\nYou could say, “What I like best about my body is that I have arms to give you a hug! I like that I can run and swim and hike with my body. I also like how my eyes look brown in some light and green in others. What do you like best about your body?”\\nParticipate in a race or other athletic event so your child can see you using your body in a healthy way.\\nAvoid criticizing your appearance in front of your child. Don’t complain about your weight or something about your appearance you dislike.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Avoid name-calling or sarcasm.\", \"描述\": \"Being around children who are constantly demanding can be stressful, and a parent or other caregiver can feel overwhelmed by their needs. It can feel like an easy release to lash out or be sarcastic with your child, but diminishing their feelings only leads them to believe that their feelings are not important. Over the long term, this can harm their self-esteem.\\nIf you are feeling stressed out or frustrated, try to take a short break from the child, even if it is just going into another room for a moment to collect yourself.\\nRole model appropriate behavior by not using name-calling words to describe other people. For example, when someone cuts you off while driving, don’t yell, “You idiot!” with your child in the car.\\nApologize to your child if necessary. It role models how to say you’re sorry, and it helps a child feel secure that a grown-up can admit when they are wrong. Saying you’re sorry shows that you have good enough self-esteem to face the consequences of your actions.\\nYou could say, “Miles, I’m sorry for not using kind words with you earlier. I was upset, and I should have taken a break rather than lash out at you. You didn’t do anything wrong, I did. I’m sorry I hurt your feelings.”\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Model positive self-talk.\", \"描述\": \"When you feel proud that you have accomplished a goal, let your child know. Celebrate your successes with your child. Talk about how mistakes you’ve made don’t make you a failure.\\nFor example, if you get a promotion at work, share your news with your child. You could say, “I am so proud of myself today! I’ve been working on a project for a long time, and today my boss told me that I did such a great job on it, they know I am ready for more responsibility, so I am getting a higher position at work. I reached a goal, and I am feeling great!”\\nRole model what your child can say to themselves when they make a mistake, even a small one. For example, if you spill something in front of your child, you could say, “Oops, I just knocked over the water glass. I made a mistake, but I can fix it. I’ll get a towel. I screwed up, but it’s okay.”\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,270 |
How to Build a Child Custody Case
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1. Researching Your Case
1-1. Consider hiring an attorney.
Family law is detailed and far reaching, and judges have great latitude for discretion. If you file on your own, keep in mind you'll be expected to understand the law and know the procedural rules as well as any attorney.
1-2. Understand the different types of child custody.
You need to know the difference between types of custody so you know what arrangement to ask the court for.
If you have physical custody of the child, that means the child lives with you most of the time, or even all of the time.
If you have legal custody, that means you have the right to make decisions about the child's life, such as where the child will go to school or if the child will go to church.
Courts award joint custody or sole custody. Sole custody means you are the only parent with that type of custody, while joint custody means both parents share it. For example, you may have joint physical custody and sole legal custody.
1-3. Learn your state's requirements for filing a custody case.
These requirements will differ depending on whether you are filing for an initial order or for modification of an existing order.
An initial request for a custody determination typically is made alongside a divorce case, but they may also be filed during a case to settle paternity, if the parents were never married. In some states that recognize legal separation, you may request a court custody order when you file for legal separation.
For modification of an existing order, generally you must show that there has been a significant change in circumstances since the court made its original ruling. These changed circumstances must have such a profound effect on the child that a custody modification is essential to the child's welfare.
1-4. Decide specifically what you want out of the case.
You need to know precise details of the arrangement you want, especially if you're asking for changes to an existing order. A broad request such as "I want custody" likely will be insufficient.
Divide a sheet of paper into three columns, and write down each thing you want separately in the first column. For example, if you want to make all schooling decisions for your child, that would be one item on your list. If you also wanted to have your child with you every Christmas, that would be another item.
As you conduct your research, use the second column to write down what you must prove to get the thing you want. Use the third column to list evidence you can gather to prove all of that.
For example, suppose you want to make all your child's schooling decisions, and your state prefers both parents make these decisions equally unless it would endanger your child. In the second column, you would have to prove that allowing the other parent to assist in schooling decisions would endanger your child. If the other parent refused to let your child participate in special needs programs despite the fact that your child was diagnosed with a learning disability, this would be evidence that might prove that allowing the other parent to help make schooling decisions would be a danger to your child.
1-5. Understand your state's standards and presumptions.
All states determine child custody based on the best interests of the child, although the factors analyzed in making this decision vary among states and on a case-by-case basis.
Factors evaluated by courts in determining the child's best interests include where the parents want the child to live, where the child wants to live, how the child gets along with the parents, siblings, or anyone else in the home, the child's adjustment to her school and community, and any evidence of abuse or neglect.
The law presumes certain custody arrangements to be in the child's best interests. If you want the court to reach a different result, you must overcome that presumption by proving that following it would endanger the child's health and welfare.
For example, many states presume it is in the best interest of the child if both parents share decision-making power and residential time. To overcome such a presumption, you must demonstrate that allowing the other parent to make decisions or spend significant time alone with the child would endanger the child.
If there are factors weighing against this in your case, you must emphasize those. For example, if your child's other parent is an alcoholic and frequently is neglectful, that could weigh against that parent having equal time with the child.
1-6. Read applicable case law.
Judges not only look to statutes to rule on a case, they also consider case law – decisions already made by higher courts such as the state supreme court in similar cases.
You may be able to find a searchable database online at the website of your state's highest court. If one is not available, you also can find case law resources at the law library in your local courthouse.
As you read cases, write down any cases that are similar to yours. If a case supports what you want, make a note of it. If a case goes against what you want, figure out how to distinguish the case from your own – in other words, be prepared to explain to the judge how your case is different from the one that's already been decided and was contrary to your position.
2. Preparing Your Case
2-1. Make a list of your strengths and weaknesses.
Nobody's perfect, and your judge will know that. Rather than trying to present yourself as a superhero or a knight in shining armor, acknowledging and accepting that you aren't as effective in some areas will go a long way.
You don't necessarily have to include these things in your paperwork to the court, but assessing yourself objectively can help you have a more balanced approach.
2-2. Make a list of the other parent's strengths and weaknesses.
Try to avoid being too critical, because the judge will be able to tell when you're being biased for reasons that have nothing to do with the child's best interests.
It's all too easy to focus on the other parent's faults, because you wouldn't be filing for custody if you thought he was a great parent. But keep in mind that he also loves the child, and if there are things he can do well, those are areas where you can compromise and give him a larger role in the child's life.
2-3. Find out where you need to file your case.
If you're asking for a modification, the court that issued the original order most likely is the court that will hear the request for modification. If you are seeking a divorce and custody order, the correct court most likely will be in the county where you or your spouse live.
If the child has moved to another state with the approval of the court, the court where the child has lived for at least six months may be the appropriate court. In this situation, it would be advisable to consult an attorney.
2-4. Go to the court and observe the judge.
Once you know the judge who will be hearing your case, spend some time sitting in that judge's courtroom gallery while court is in session.
In smaller counties, there may be only one judge who hears family law cases, so you would know immediately who would be hearing your case. In larger courts, you won't be assigned a judge until you file your documents.
Once you know who your judge will be, go online or to the clerk's office and get the court's calendar. Most domestic relations and custody hearings are open to the public. Look for motion days, because there will be a lot of people in the courtroom on those days.
Sitting in court allows you to get a feel for the type of issues that tend to come up during a custody case, and how your judge handles those issues. Make a note of how your judge interacts with people who don't have attorneys, including whether she seems to be harder on them or whether she is more understanding and helps them navigate the system.
2-5. Revise your lists based on your observations.
After you've seen your judge in action, you can revise your list of what you want out of your custody case to accommodate the judge's preferences.
2-6. Gather evidence to support your argument.
You can't win a custody case simply by telling the judge that you'd be a better parent – you must make factual statements and be able to back them up with concrete evidence.
Talk to an attorney if you're unsure about the legality of your methods for gathering evidence. For example, in some states it's perfectly legal to record your own phone conversations with anyone without telling them they're being recorded, but in other states it may not be.
In some situations you may have to file your case before you can get the evidence you need. Once you've filed a case, you can request certain documents or information from the other side, interview the other party under oath, and inspect relevant property or other items, and the other side generally must comply with your requests.
Make estimated budgets and calculate your income to show how you could provide for the child. If you have additional resources that would be available only if you had custody of the child, you should include those as well. For example, perhaps if your child is living with you, his grandparents will be able to pick him up from school, saving you the cost of after-school care.
2-7. Decide if you can get together with the other parent and work out a temporary or even permanent arrangement on your own without filing a case in court.
If you and the other parent have relatively amicable relations, you may be able to come to your own agreement with the help of a neutral third party such as a certified mediator.
3. Filing Your Case
3-1. Fill out forms or draft the necessary documents.
If you are filing for an initial custody order, you will need to file a petition and open a new case. For modification of an existing order, on the other hand, you typically would file a motion in the same court that issued the original order.
Most states have forms available online and in the clerk's office of your local court. If you have trouble completing them, you can talk to someone in your nearest legal self-help center and they will walk you through the process.
3-2. Sign in front of a notary, if necessary.
If any of your documents include a notary block, you must wait until you're in the presence of a notary so she can witness you signing those documents. The courthouse usually has notary services available, although you may be charged a small fee.
3-3. Assemble your signed documents together with all exhibits and make copies.
You'll need to make at least three copies of your packet of paperwork before filing. Review the instructions that came with your forms or talk to someone in the clerk's office to verify exactly how many copies you'll need.
3-4. File your documents with the clerk of court.
When you take your paperwork to the clerk's office and pay the filing fee, the clerk will stamp your originals and copies "filed" and give you back the copies. At least one of these copies will be for your records; the other you'll need to send to the other parent.
The fees you're charged will vary depending on the court where you file and whether you're filing for an initial order or modification of an existing order. However, you generally can expect to pay less than $200. If you can't afford the filing fees, the court will have a form you can fill out to apply for a waiver.
The clerk will file your originals with the appropriate court, and schedule a date for your next appearance. In many states, you must complete court-ordered mediation before your case will be heard by a judge.
3-5. Serve your documents on the other parent.
Once you've filed for custody, you'll have to send the paperwork to the other parent or current guardian so they know about your lawsuit and have an opportunity to respond.
Find out if you can serve using certified mail or if the court requires personal service. If personal service is required, you can contact the state marshal's office or the sheriff's department, or hire a private process serving company to complete service for you. The clerk's office should have a list of acceptable process servers.
3-6. Continue building your case.
Now that you've filed your lawsuit, you can use discovery tools such as interrogatories, requests for production and depositions to get additional information from the other parent to use as evidence in your case.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Researching Your Case\\n1-1. Consider hiring an attorney.\\nFamily law is detailed and far reaching, and judges have great latitude for discretion. If you file on your own, keep in mind you'll be expected to understand the law and know the procedural rules as well as any attorney.\\n1-2. Understand the different types of child custody.\\nYou need to know the difference between types of custody so you know what arrangement to ask the court for.\\nIf you have physical custody of the child, that means the child lives with you most of the time, or even all of the time.\\nIf you have legal custody, that means you have the right to make decisions about the child's life, such as where the child will go to school or if the child will go to church.\\nCourts award joint custody or sole custody. Sole custody means you are the only parent with that type of custody, while joint custody means both parents share it. For example, you may have joint physical custody and sole legal custody.\\n1-3. Learn your state's requirements for filing a custody case.\\nThese requirements will differ depending on whether you are filing for an initial order or for modification of an existing order.\\nAn initial request for a custody determination typically is made alongside a divorce case, but they may also be filed during a case to settle paternity, if the parents were never married. In some states that recognize legal separation, you may request a court custody order when you file for legal separation.\\nFor modification of an existing order, generally you must show that there has been a significant change in circumstances since the court made its original ruling. These changed circumstances must have such a profound effect on the child that a custody modification is essential to the child's welfare.\\n1-4. Decide specifically what you want out of the case.\\nYou need to know precise details of the arrangement you want, especially if you're asking for changes to an existing order. A broad request such as \\\"I want custody\\\" likely will be insufficient.\\nDivide a sheet of paper into three columns, and write down each thing you want separately in the first column. For example, if you want to make all schooling decisions for your child, that would be one item on your list. If you also wanted to have your child with you every Christmas, that would be another item.\\nAs you conduct your research, use the second column to write down what you must prove to get the thing you want. Use the third column to list evidence you can gather to prove all of that.\\nFor example, suppose you want to make all your child's schooling decisions, and your state prefers both parents make these decisions equally unless it would endanger your child. In the second column, you would have to prove that allowing the other parent to assist in schooling decisions would endanger your child. If the other parent refused to let your child participate in special needs programs despite the fact that your child was diagnosed with a learning disability, this would be evidence that might prove that allowing the other parent to help make schooling decisions would be a danger to your child.\\n1-5. Understand your state's standards and presumptions.\\nAll states determine child custody based on the best interests of the child, although the factors analyzed in making this decision vary among states and on a case-by-case basis.\\nFactors evaluated by courts in determining the child's best interests include where the parents want the child to live, where the child wants to live, how the child gets along with the parents, siblings, or anyone else in the home, the child's adjustment to her school and community, and any evidence of abuse or neglect.\\nThe law presumes certain custody arrangements to be in the child's best interests. If you want the court to reach a different result, you must overcome that presumption by proving that following it would endanger the child's health and welfare.\\nFor example, many states presume it is in the best interest of the child if both parents share decision-making power and residential time. To overcome such a presumption, you must demonstrate that allowing the other parent to make decisions or spend significant time alone with the child would endanger the child.\\nIf there are factors weighing against this in your case, you must emphasize those. For example, if your child's other parent is an alcoholic and frequently is neglectful, that could weigh against that parent having equal time with the child.\\n1-6. Read applicable case law.\\nJudges not only look to statutes to rule on a case, they also consider case law – decisions already made by higher courts such as the state supreme court in similar cases.\\nYou may be able to find a searchable database online at the website of your state's highest court. If one is not available, you also can find case law resources at the law library in your local courthouse.\\nAs you read cases, write down any cases that are similar to yours. If a case supports what you want, make a note of it. If a case goes against what you want, figure out how to distinguish the case from your own – in other words, be prepared to explain to the judge how your case is different from the one that's already been decided and was contrary to your position.\\n2. Preparing Your Case\\n2-1. Make a list of your strengths and weaknesses.\\nNobody's perfect, and your judge will know that. Rather than trying to present yourself as a superhero or a knight in shining armor, acknowledging and accepting that you aren't as effective in some areas will go a long way.\\nYou don't necessarily have to include these things in your paperwork to the court, but assessing yourself objectively can help you have a more balanced approach.\\n2-2. Make a list of the other parent's strengths and weaknesses.\\nTry to avoid being too critical, because the judge will be able to tell when you're being biased for reasons that have nothing to do with the child's best interests.\\nIt's all too easy to focus on the other parent's faults, because you wouldn't be filing for custody if you thought he was a great parent. But keep in mind that he also loves the child, and if there are things he can do well, those are areas where you can compromise and give him a larger role in the child's life.\\n2-3. Find out where you need to file your case.\\nIf you're asking for a modification, the court that issued the original order most likely is the court that will hear the request for modification. If you are seeking a divorce and custody order, the correct court most likely will be in the county where you or your spouse live.\\nIf the child has moved to another state with the approval of the court, the court where the child has lived for at least six months may be the appropriate court. In this situation, it would be advisable to consult an attorney.\\n2-4. Go to the court and observe the judge.\\nOnce you know the judge who will be hearing your case, spend some time sitting in that judge's courtroom gallery while court is in session.\\nIn smaller counties, there may be only one judge who hears family law cases, so you would know immediately who would be hearing your case. In larger courts, you won't be assigned a judge until you file your documents.\\nOnce you know who your judge will be, go online or to the clerk's office and get the court's calendar. Most domestic relations and custody hearings are open to the public. Look for motion days, because there will be a lot of people in the courtroom on those days.\\nSitting in court allows you to get a feel for the type of issues that tend to come up during a custody case, and how your judge handles those issues. Make a note of how your judge interacts with people who don't have attorneys, including whether she seems to be harder on them or whether she is more understanding and helps them navigate the system.\\n2-5. Revise your lists based on your observations.\\nAfter you've seen your judge in action, you can revise your list of what you want out of your custody case to accommodate the judge's preferences.\\n2-6. Gather evidence to support your argument.\\nYou can't win a custody case simply by telling the judge that you'd be a better parent – you must make factual statements and be able to back them up with concrete evidence.\\nTalk to an attorney if you're unsure about the legality of your methods for gathering evidence. For example, in some states it's perfectly legal to record your own phone conversations with anyone without telling them they're being recorded, but in other states it may not be.\\nIn some situations you may have to file your case before you can get the evidence you need. Once you've filed a case, you can request certain documents or information from the other side, interview the other party under oath, and inspect relevant property or other items, and the other side generally must comply with your requests.\\nMake estimated budgets and calculate your income to show how you could provide for the child. If you have additional resources that would be available only if you had custody of the child, you should include those as well. For example, perhaps if your child is living with you, his grandparents will be able to pick him up from school, saving you the cost of after-school care.\\n2-7. Decide if you can get together with the other parent and work out a temporary or even permanent arrangement on your own without filing a case in court.\\nIf you and the other parent have relatively amicable relations, you may be able to come to your own agreement with the help of a neutral third party such as a certified mediator.\\n3. Filing Your Case\\n3-1. Fill out forms or draft the necessary documents.\\nIf you are filing for an initial custody order, you will need to file a petition and open a new case. For modification of an existing order, on the other hand, you typically would file a motion in the same court that issued the original order.\\nMost states have forms available online and in the clerk's office of your local court. If you have trouble completing them, you can talk to someone in your nearest legal self-help center and they will walk you through the process.\\n3-2. Sign in front of a notary, if necessary.\\nIf any of your documents include a notary block, you must wait until you're in the presence of a notary so she can witness you signing those documents. The courthouse usually has notary services available, although you may be charged a small fee.\\n3-3. Assemble your signed documents together with all exhibits and make copies.\\nYou'll need to make at least three copies of your packet of paperwork before filing. Review the instructions that came with your forms or talk to someone in the clerk's office to verify exactly how many copies you'll need.\\n3-4. File your documents with the clerk of court.\\nWhen you take your paperwork to the clerk's office and pay the filing fee, the clerk will stamp your originals and copies \\\"filed\\\" and give you back the copies. At least one of these copies will be for your records; the other you'll need to send to the other parent.\\nThe fees you're charged will vary depending on the court where you file and whether you're filing for an initial order or modification of an existing order. However, you generally can expect to pay less than $200. If you can't afford the filing fees, the court will have a form you can fill out to apply for a waiver.\\nThe clerk will file your originals with the appropriate court, and schedule a date for your next appearance. In many states, you must complete court-ordered mediation before your case will be heard by a judge.\\n3-5. Serve your documents on the other parent.\\nOnce you've filed for custody, you'll have to send the paperwork to the other parent or current guardian so they know about your lawsuit and have an opportunity to respond.\\nFind out if you can serve using certified mail or if the court requires personal service. If personal service is required, you can contact the state marshal's office or the sheriff's department, or hire a private process serving company to complete service for you. The clerk's office should have a list of acceptable process servers.\\n3-6. Continue building your case.\\nNow that you've filed your lawsuit, you can use discovery tools such as interrogatories, requests for production and depositions to get additional information from the other parent to use as evidence in your case.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"When you are no longer in a relationship with the other parent of your child, you may need the court's help to make suitable arrangements regarding where the child will live and who will make decisions on her behalf. If you plan to file a lawsuit in court for an initial custody order or a modification to an existing order, there are certain actions you can take that may increase your odds of receiving a favorable ruling at trial. However, there's no real formula that's guaranteed in all cases, so you must take your individual circumstances and needs into account.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Researching Your Case\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider hiring an attorney.\", \"描述\": \"Family law is detailed and far reaching, and judges have great latitude for discretion. If you file on your own, keep in mind you'll be expected to understand the law and know the procedural rules as well as any attorney.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Understand the different types of child custody.\", \"描述\": \"You need to know the difference between types of custody so you know what arrangement to ask the court for.\\nIf you have physical custody of the child, that means the child lives with you most of the time, or even all of the time.\\nIf you have legal custody, that means you have the right to make decisions about the child's life, such as where the child will go to school or if the child will go to church.\\nCourts award joint custody or sole custody. Sole custody means you are the only parent with that type of custody, while joint custody means both parents share it. For example, you may have joint physical custody and sole legal custody.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Learn your state's requirements for filing a custody case.\", \"描述\": \"These requirements will differ depending on whether you are filing for an initial order or for modification of an existing order.\\nAn initial request for a custody determination typically is made alongside a divorce case, but they may also be filed during a case to settle paternity, if the parents were never married. In some states that recognize legal separation, you may request a court custody order when you file for legal separation.\\nFor modification of an existing order, generally you must show that there has been a significant change in circumstances since the court made its original ruling. These changed circumstances must have such a profound effect on the child that a custody modification is essential to the child's welfare.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decide specifically what you want out of the case.\", \"描述\": \"You need to know precise details of the arrangement you want, especially if you're asking for changes to an existing order. A broad request such as \\\"I want custody\\\" likely will be insufficient.\\nDivide a sheet of paper into three columns, and write down each thing you want separately in the first column. For example, if you want to make all schooling decisions for your child, that would be one item on your list. If you also wanted to have your child with you every Christmas, that would be another item.\\nAs you conduct your research, use the second column to write down what you must prove to get the thing you want. Use the third column to list evidence you can gather to prove all of that.\\nFor example, suppose you want to make all your child's schooling decisions, and your state prefers both parents make these decisions equally unless it would endanger your child. In the second column, you would have to prove that allowing the other parent to assist in schooling decisions would endanger your child. If the other parent refused to let your child participate in special needs programs despite the fact that your child was diagnosed with a learning disability, this would be evidence that might prove that allowing the other parent to help make schooling decisions would be a danger to your child.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Understand your state's standards and presumptions.\", \"描述\": \"All states determine child custody based on the best interests of the child, although the factors analyzed in making this decision vary among states and on a case-by-case basis.\\nFactors evaluated by courts in determining the child's best interests include where the parents want the child to live, where the child wants to live, how the child gets along with the parents, siblings, or anyone else in the home, the child's adjustment to her school and community, and any evidence of abuse or neglect.\\nThe law presumes certain custody arrangements to be in the child's best interests. If you want the court to reach a different result, you must overcome that presumption by proving that following it would endanger the child's health and welfare.\\nFor example, many states presume it is in the best interest of the child if both parents share decision-making power and residential time. To overcome such a presumption, you must demonstrate that allowing the other parent to make decisions or spend significant time alone with the child would endanger the child.\\nIf there are factors weighing against this in your case, you must emphasize those. For example, if your child's other parent is an alcoholic and frequently is neglectful, that could weigh against that parent having equal time with the child.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Read applicable case law.\", \"描述\": \"Judges not only look to statutes to rule on a case, they also consider case law – decisions already made by higher courts such as the state supreme court in similar cases.\\nYou may be able to find a searchable database online at the website of your state's highest court. If one is not available, you also can find case law resources at the law library in your local courthouse.\\nAs you read cases, write down any cases that are similar to yours. If a case supports what you want, make a note of it. If a case goes against what you want, figure out how to distinguish the case from your own – in other words, be prepared to explain to the judge how your case is different from the one that's already been decided and was contrary to your position.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Preparing Your Case\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a list of your strengths and weaknesses.\", \"描述\": \"Nobody's perfect, and your judge will know that. Rather than trying to present yourself as a superhero or a knight in shining armor, acknowledging and accepting that you aren't as effective in some areas will go a long way.\\nYou don't necessarily have to include these things in your paperwork to the court, but assessing yourself objectively can help you have a more balanced approach.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a list of the other parent's strengths and weaknesses.\", \"描述\": \"Try to avoid being too critical, because the judge will be able to tell when you're being biased for reasons that have nothing to do with the child's best interests.\\nIt's all too easy to focus on the other parent's faults, because you wouldn't be filing for custody if you thought he was a great parent. But keep in mind that he also loves the child, and if there are things he can do well, those are areas where you can compromise and give him a larger role in the child's life.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find out where you need to file your case.\", \"描述\": \"If you're asking for a modification, the court that issued the original order most likely is the court that will hear the request for modification. If you are seeking a divorce and custody order, the correct court most likely will be in the county where you or your spouse live.\\nIf the child has moved to another state with the approval of the court, the court where the child has lived for at least six months may be the appropriate court. In this situation, it would be advisable to consult an attorney.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Go to the court and observe the judge.\", \"描述\": \"Once you know the judge who will be hearing your case, spend some time sitting in that judge's courtroom gallery while court is in session.\\nIn smaller counties, there may be only one judge who hears family law cases, so you would know immediately who would be hearing your case. In larger courts, you won't be assigned a judge until you file your documents.\\nOnce you know who your judge will be, go online or to the clerk's office and get the court's calendar. Most domestic relations and custody hearings are open to the public. Look for motion days, because there will be a lot of people in the courtroom on those days.\\nSitting in court allows you to get a feel for the type of issues that tend to come up during a custody case, and how your judge handles those issues. Make a note of how your judge interacts with people who don't have attorneys, including whether she seems to be harder on them or whether she is more understanding and helps them navigate the system.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Revise your lists based on your observations.\", \"描述\": \"After you've seen your judge in action, you can revise your list of what you want out of your custody case to accommodate the judge's preferences.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Gather evidence to support your argument.\", \"描述\": \"You can't win a custody case simply by telling the judge that you'd be a better parent – you must make factual statements and be able to back them up with concrete evidence.\\nTalk to an attorney if you're unsure about the legality of your methods for gathering evidence. For example, in some states it's perfectly legal to record your own phone conversations with anyone without telling them they're being recorded, but in other states it may not be.\\nIn some situations you may have to file your case before you can get the evidence you need. Once you've filed a case, you can request certain documents or information from the other side, interview the other party under oath, and inspect relevant property or other items, and the other side generally must comply with your requests.\\nMake estimated budgets and calculate your income to show how you could provide for the child. If you have additional resources that would be available only if you had custody of the child, you should include those as well. For example, perhaps if your child is living with you, his grandparents will be able to pick him up from school, saving you the cost of after-school care.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Decide if you can get together with the other parent and work out a temporary or even permanent arrangement on your own without filing a case in court.\", \"描述\": \"If you and the other parent have relatively amicable relations, you may be able to come to your own agreement with the help of a neutral third party such as a certified mediator.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Filing Your Case\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fill out forms or draft the necessary documents.\", \"描述\": \"If you are filing for an initial custody order, you will need to file a petition and open a new case. For modification of an existing order, on the other hand, you typically would file a motion in the same court that issued the original order.\\nMost states have forms available online and in the clerk's office of your local court. If you have trouble completing them, you can talk to someone in your nearest legal self-help center and they will walk you through the process.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sign in front of a notary, if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"If any of your documents include a notary block, you must wait until you're in the presence of a notary so she can witness you signing those documents. The courthouse usually has notary services available, although you may be charged a small fee.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assemble your signed documents together with all exhibits and make copies.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need to make at least three copies of your packet of paperwork before filing. Review the instructions that came with your forms or talk to someone in the clerk's office to verify exactly how many copies you'll need.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"File your documents with the clerk of court.\", \"描述\": \"When you take your paperwork to the clerk's office and pay the filing fee, the clerk will stamp your originals and copies \\\"filed\\\" and give you back the copies. At least one of these copies will be for your records; the other you'll need to send to the other parent.\\nThe fees you're charged will vary depending on the court where you file and whether you're filing for an initial order or modification of an existing order. However, you generally can expect to pay less than $200. If you can't afford the filing fees, the court will have a form you can fill out to apply for a waiver.\\nThe clerk will file your originals with the appropriate court, and schedule a date for your next appearance. In many states, you must complete court-ordered mediation before your case will be heard by a judge.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Serve your documents on the other parent.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've filed for custody, you'll have to send the paperwork to the other parent or current guardian so they know about your lawsuit and have an opportunity to respond.\\nFind out if you can serve using certified mail or if the court requires personal service. If personal service is required, you can contact the state marshal's office or the sheriff's department, or hire a private process serving company to complete service for you. The clerk's office should have a list of acceptable process servers.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Continue building your case.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you've filed your lawsuit, you can use discovery tools such as interrogatories, requests for production and depositions to get additional information from the other parent to use as evidence in your case.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,271 |
How to Build a Chimney
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1. Planning a Chimney
1-1. Consult your local construction codes when designing your chimney.
While each community has its own codes for building chimneys, most codes are based on the National Fire Protection Agencies 211 standard. Go to the NFPA website to review national fire code associated with chimneys. The code is available online for free. This code should guide all aspects of the function of your chimney.
Two general requirements of the 211 standard are that chimneys be at least 3 feet (90 centimeters) taller than the highest point where it goes through the roof of a single structure and 2 feet (60 centimeters) taller than any portion of the building or any adjacent building within 10 feet (3 meters) of the chimney. The taller the chimney, the better it drafts.
A chimney also needs at least a 2-inch (5-centimeter) clearance from combustible material if it is built in or through the walls of a house and a 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) clearance if built alongside the house.
1-2. Decide what material the chimney will be made of.
The most common material for a chimney is brick or masonry, but prefabricated metal chimneys are also widely available. If building a masonry or brick chimney, you will need to figure out how big it will be to estimate how many bricks to order. If using a prefab metal chimney, you will need to measure the distance from your stove, or other appliance, to the location where it is exiting the house.
Masonry chimneys are usually required to have walls at least 4-inches (10-centimeters) thick. Standard chimney bricks should come in this thickness.
1-3. Determine what waste products the chimney is going to vent.
This will determine whether your chimney can vent multiple appliances or if it will vent only one.
It is possible to build chimneys for several appliances and connect them to a main discharge flue, sized to handle the combined output, provided the subordinate flues for the individual chimneys are not angled more than 30 degrees off vertical and they vent the same type of by-product. In other words, a chimney for a gas range can be combined with one for a gas furnace, but not a wood-burning fireplace.
Flues also must not change in shape or size within 6 inches (15 centimeters) above or below a floor, ceiling or roof made of combustible materials.
1-4. Determine the width of the chimney flue.
This is mostly determined by what appliance(s) the chimney is built to vent. Metal chimneys are usually round flue pipes, while masonry chimneys usually have square or rectangular flues. Each type has different diameter requirements depending on what they are venting. Consult local and national fire code to determine the diameter you should use.
Masonry chimneys are typically lined with a clay or ceramic tile flue, which goes up the center of the brick chimney with a gap between the outside brick and the inside flue, so that the ceramic or clay flue is able to expand and contract without moving the brick. However, stainless steel pipe or concrete may also be used in some cases, depending on what the chimney is designed to vent.
Look at local building code to determine the size flue that is required for the appliance you are venting. These differ, so make sure to check for your specific need.
2. Building a Chimney
2-1. Buy all supplies needed for building your chimney.
While this will vary a bit, depending on the type and location of your chimney, you should have all supplies on hand when starting your project.
When installing a metal chimney you will need flashing, prefab chimney box, chimney cap, prefab chimney sections, and chimney roof braces. When passing through a wall or ceiling, you should use a section of chimney that is rated as a wall pass through, so that there is no risk of your wall or roof catching on fire.
When building a masonry chimney you will need to buy the brick and masonry, mortar, support pieces (such as rebar), flashing, a cap, and specialty masonry tools.
2-2. Build the smoke chamber.
You will need to start building your chimney from the ground up. For a masonry chimney, this usually means that you will be building your chimney right off the top of a fireplace (if the chimney is designed to vent a fireplace), using a brick that is similar to that used to build the hearth.
You will need to mix your mortar mix with water, making it the consistency of thick peanut butter. Once it is the right consistency, you will use a mason's trowel to load mortar onto each brick before you set it in place. You need to put enough mortar on each brick so that it oozes out the joints a bit, which guarantees that the entire area between the bricks is filled with mortar.
As you build up the walls of the chimney with bricks, make sure that it is level on all planes. Take a level and check that all walls are level on their vertical and horizontal planes, and that in each line of bricks all the bricks are lined up with the other.
For a prefabricated metal fireplace, the smoke chamber is almost indistinguishable from the rest of the chimney.
The chimney should be built on a very solid base. If you are not building on an existing fireplace or base, you may need to pour a reinforced concrete pad for the chimney to be built upon. Consult local code to determine if it is required and what specifications it should be built to.
2-3. Construct the flue and outside of chimney.
The flue connects the top of the smoke chamber to the roof through the middle of the chimney. As noted in the previous section, it may be made of either brick or metal pipe. If clay or ceramic tiles are used to create the flue in a brick chimney, they are laid as the exterior of the chimney is put up.
Metal liners can be dropped into place, while concrete liners are cast in place by pouring concrete through a flexible hose. For more information on how to install a chimney liner see: How to Install a Chimney Liner.
2-4. Surround the chimney with flashing where it goes through any walls.
You'll want to put metal flashing around the chimney in 2 places: around the chimney where it meets the roof and as a lining underneath the chimney cap. Use a waterproof silicone caulk or polyurethane caulk underneath the flashing to keep water from leaking into the house around the chimney.
2-5. Cap the chimney.
The chimney cap goes over the top of the brick flue housing. It should extend past the chimney wall by at least 2 inches (5 centimeters) and have a drip edge to channel water away from the chimney. Recommended chimney cap materials include stone and concrete either pre-cast or cast in place.
For more information on how to cap a chimney see: How to Cap a Chimney.
A chimney cap is important because it will reduce the amount of moisture that can get down your chimney, keep out animals, block downdrafts, stop sparks from leaving your chimney and also block debris, like leaves and branches, from going down your chimney.
Tips
The most current copy of the National Fire Protection Agencies standard may be obtained by calling 1-800-344-3555. For your local building codes, contact the appropriate municipal agency.
Warnings
If you are unsure or apprehensive about building your own chimney, it may be a good idea to hire a professional to build it for you. Professional masons will not only know how to design and build your chimney in the appropriate way, they will also be able to build it much faster and more efficiently.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning a Chimney\\n1-1. Consult your local construction codes when designing your chimney.\\nWhile each community has its own codes for building chimneys, most codes are based on the National Fire Protection Agencies 211 standard. Go to the NFPA website to review national fire code associated with chimneys. The code is available online for free. This code should guide all aspects of the function of your chimney. \\nTwo general requirements of the 211 standard are that chimneys be at least 3 feet (90 centimeters) taller than the highest point where it goes through the roof of a single structure and 2 feet (60 centimeters) taller than any portion of the building or any adjacent building within 10 feet (3 meters) of the chimney. The taller the chimney, the better it drafts.\\nA chimney also needs at least a 2-inch (5-centimeter) clearance from combustible material if it is built in or through the walls of a house and a 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) clearance if built alongside the house.\\n1-2. Decide what material the chimney will be made of.\\nThe most common material for a chimney is brick or masonry, but prefabricated metal chimneys are also widely available. If building a masonry or brick chimney, you will need to figure out how big it will be to estimate how many bricks to order. If using a prefab metal chimney, you will need to measure the distance from your stove, or other appliance, to the location where it is exiting the house. \\nMasonry chimneys are usually required to have walls at least 4-inches (10-centimeters) thick. Standard chimney bricks should come in this thickness.\\n1-3. Determine what waste products the chimney is going to vent.\\nThis will determine whether your chimney can vent multiple appliances or if it will vent only one. \\nIt is possible to build chimneys for several appliances and connect them to a main discharge flue, sized to handle the combined output, provided the subordinate flues for the individual chimneys are not angled more than 30 degrees off vertical and they vent the same type of by-product. In other words, a chimney for a gas range can be combined with one for a gas furnace, but not a wood-burning fireplace.\\nFlues also must not change in shape or size within 6 inches (15 centimeters) above or below a floor, ceiling or roof made of combustible materials.\\n1-4. Determine the width of the chimney flue.\\nThis is mostly determined by what appliance(s) the chimney is built to vent. Metal chimneys are usually round flue pipes, while masonry chimneys usually have square or rectangular flues. Each type has different diameter requirements depending on what they are venting. Consult local and national fire code to determine the diameter you should use. \\nMasonry chimneys are typically lined with a clay or ceramic tile flue, which goes up the center of the brick chimney with a gap between the outside brick and the inside flue, so that the ceramic or clay flue is able to expand and contract without moving the brick. However, stainless steel pipe or concrete may also be used in some cases, depending on what the chimney is designed to vent.\\nLook at local building code to determine the size flue that is required for the appliance you are venting. These differ, so make sure to check for your specific need.\\n2. Building a Chimney\\n2-1. Buy all supplies needed for building your chimney.\\nWhile this will vary a bit, depending on the type and location of your chimney, you should have all supplies on hand when starting your project.\\nWhen installing a metal chimney you will need flashing, prefab chimney box, chimney cap, prefab chimney sections, and chimney roof braces. When passing through a wall or ceiling, you should use a section of chimney that is rated as a wall pass through, so that there is no risk of your wall or roof catching on fire.\\nWhen building a masonry chimney you will need to buy the brick and masonry, mortar, support pieces (such as rebar), flashing, a cap, and specialty masonry tools.\\n2-2. Build the smoke chamber.\\nYou will need to start building your chimney from the ground up. For a masonry chimney, this usually means that you will be building your chimney right off the top of a fireplace (if the chimney is designed to vent a fireplace), using a brick that is similar to that used to build the hearth. \\nYou will need to mix your mortar mix with water, making it the consistency of thick peanut butter. Once it is the right consistency, you will use a mason's trowel to load mortar onto each brick before you set it in place. You need to put enough mortar on each brick so that it oozes out the joints a bit, which guarantees that the entire area between the bricks is filled with mortar.\\nAs you build up the walls of the chimney with bricks, make sure that it is level on all planes. Take a level and check that all walls are level on their vertical and horizontal planes, and that in each line of bricks all the bricks are lined up with the other.\\nFor a prefabricated metal fireplace, the smoke chamber is almost indistinguishable from the rest of the chimney.\\nThe chimney should be built on a very solid base. If you are not building on an existing fireplace or base, you may need to pour a reinforced concrete pad for the chimney to be built upon. Consult local code to determine if it is required and what specifications it should be built to.\\n2-3. Construct the flue and outside of chimney.\\nThe flue connects the top of the smoke chamber to the roof through the middle of the chimney. As noted in the previous section, it may be made of either brick or metal pipe. If clay or ceramic tiles are used to create the flue in a brick chimney, they are laid as the exterior of the chimney is put up. \\nMetal liners can be dropped into place, while concrete liners are cast in place by pouring concrete through a flexible hose. For more information on how to install a chimney liner see: How to Install a Chimney Liner.\\n2-4. Surround the chimney with flashing where it goes through any walls.\\nYou'll want to put metal flashing around the chimney in 2 places: around the chimney where it meets the roof and as a lining underneath the chimney cap. Use a waterproof silicone caulk or polyurethane caulk underneath the flashing to keep water from leaking into the house around the chimney.\\n2-5. Cap the chimney.\\nThe chimney cap goes over the top of the brick flue housing. It should extend past the chimney wall by at least 2 inches (5 centimeters) and have a drip edge to channel water away from the chimney. Recommended chimney cap materials include stone and concrete either pre-cast or cast in place.\\nFor more information on how to cap a chimney see: How to Cap a Chimney.\\nA chimney cap is important because it will reduce the amount of moisture that can get down your chimney, keep out animals, block downdrafts, stop sparks from leaving your chimney and also block debris, like leaves and branches, from going down your chimney.\\nTips\\nThe most current copy of the National Fire Protection Agencies standard may be obtained by calling 1-800-344-3555. For your local building codes, contact the appropriate municipal agency.\\nWarnings\\nIf you are unsure or apprehensive about building your own chimney, it may be a good idea to hire a professional to build it for you. Professional masons will not only know how to design and build your chimney in the appropriate way, they will also be able to build it much faster and more efficiently.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"We all know that a chimney is the way Santa Claus enters a house to deliver Christmas presents but the real purpose of a chimney is to safely vent ash and gases from a house. Chimneys can be made of brick and masonry or of metal and they should be attached to all fireplaces, furnaces or heating stoves that burn any kind of combustible fuel. Regardless of the material your chimney is made of, it is important that it be built correctly to prevent the possibility of damage to your house or your family. Here are some things to consider when building your chimney.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning a Chimney\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consult your local construction codes when designing your chimney.\", \"描述\": \"While each community has its own codes for building chimneys, most codes are based on the National Fire Protection Agencies 211 standard. Go to the NFPA website to review national fire code associated with chimneys. The code is available online for free. This code should guide all aspects of the function of your chimney. \\nTwo general requirements of the 211 standard are that chimneys be at least 3 feet (90 centimeters) taller than the highest point where it goes through the roof of a single structure and 2 feet (60 centimeters) taller than any portion of the building or any adjacent building within 10 feet (3 meters) of the chimney. The taller the chimney, the better it drafts.\\nA chimney also needs at least a 2-inch (5-centimeter) clearance from combustible material if it is built in or through the walls of a house and a 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) clearance if built alongside the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide what material the chimney will be made of.\", \"描述\": \"The most common material for a chimney is brick or masonry, but prefabricated metal chimneys are also widely available. If building a masonry or brick chimney, you will need to figure out how big it will be to estimate how many bricks to order. If using a prefab metal chimney, you will need to measure the distance from your stove, or other appliance, to the location where it is exiting the house. \\nMasonry chimneys are usually required to have walls at least 4-inches (10-centimeters) thick. Standard chimney bricks should come in this thickness.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Determine what waste products the chimney is going to vent.\", \"描述\": \"This will determine whether your chimney can vent multiple appliances or if it will vent only one. \\nIt is possible to build chimneys for several appliances and connect them to a main discharge flue, sized to handle the combined output, provided the subordinate flues for the individual chimneys are not angled more than 30 degrees off vertical and they vent the same type of by-product. In other words, a chimney for a gas range can be combined with one for a gas furnace, but not a wood-burning fireplace.\\nFlues also must not change in shape or size within 6 inches (15 centimeters) above or below a floor, ceiling or roof made of combustible materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Determine the width of the chimney flue.\", \"描述\": \"This is mostly determined by what appliance(s) the chimney is built to vent. Metal chimneys are usually round flue pipes, while masonry chimneys usually have square or rectangular flues. Each type has different diameter requirements depending on what they are venting. Consult local and national fire code to determine the diameter you should use. \\nMasonry chimneys are typically lined with a clay or ceramic tile flue, which goes up the center of the brick chimney with a gap between the outside brick and the inside flue, so that the ceramic or clay flue is able to expand and contract without moving the brick. However, stainless steel pipe or concrete may also be used in some cases, depending on what the chimney is designed to vent.\\nLook at local building code to determine the size flue that is required for the appliance you are venting. These differ, so make sure to check for your specific need.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Chimney\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy all supplies needed for building your chimney.\", \"描述\": \"While this will vary a bit, depending on the type and location of your chimney, you should have all supplies on hand when starting your project.\\nWhen installing a metal chimney you will need flashing, prefab chimney box, chimney cap, prefab chimney sections, and chimney roof braces. When passing through a wall or ceiling, you should use a section of chimney that is rated as a wall pass through, so that there is no risk of your wall or roof catching on fire.\\nWhen building a masonry chimney you will need to buy the brick and masonry, mortar, support pieces (such as rebar), flashing, a cap, and specialty masonry tools.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the smoke chamber.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to start building your chimney from the ground up. For a masonry chimney, this usually means that you will be building your chimney right off the top of a fireplace (if the chimney is designed to vent a fireplace), using a brick that is similar to that used to build the hearth. \\nYou will need to mix your mortar mix with water, making it the consistency of thick peanut butter. Once it is the right consistency, you will use a mason's trowel to load mortar onto each brick before you set it in place. You need to put enough mortar on each brick so that it oozes out the joints a bit, which guarantees that the entire area between the bricks is filled with mortar.\\nAs you build up the walls of the chimney with bricks, make sure that it is level on all planes. Take a level and check that all walls are level on their vertical and horizontal planes, and that in each line of bricks all the bricks are lined up with the other.\\nFor a prefabricated metal fireplace, the smoke chamber is almost indistinguishable from the rest of the chimney.\\nThe chimney should be built on a very solid base. If you are not building on an existing fireplace or base, you may need to pour a reinforced concrete pad for the chimney to be built upon. Consult local code to determine if it is required and what specifications it should be built to.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Construct the flue and outside of chimney.\", \"描述\": \"The flue connects the top of the smoke chamber to the roof through the middle of the chimney. As noted in the previous section, it may be made of either brick or metal pipe. If clay or ceramic tiles are used to create the flue in a brick chimney, they are laid as the exterior of the chimney is put up. \\nMetal liners can be dropped into place, while concrete liners are cast in place by pouring concrete through a flexible hose. For more information on how to install a chimney liner see: How to Install a Chimney Liner.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Surround the chimney with flashing where it goes through any walls.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want to put metal flashing around the chimney in 2 places: around the chimney where it meets the roof and as a lining underneath the chimney cap. Use a waterproof silicone caulk or polyurethane caulk underneath the flashing to keep water from leaking into the house around the chimney.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cap the chimney.\", \"描述\": \"The chimney cap goes over the top of the brick flue housing. It should extend past the chimney wall by at least 2 inches (5 centimeters) and have a drip edge to channel water away from the chimney. Recommended chimney cap materials include stone and concrete either pre-cast or cast in place.\\nFor more information on how to cap a chimney see: How to Cap a Chimney.\\nA chimney cap is important because it will reduce the amount of moisture that can get down your chimney, keep out animals, block downdrafts, stop sparks from leaving your chimney and also block debris, like leaves and branches, from going down your chimney.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The most current copy of the National Fire Protection Agencies standard may be obtained by calling 1-800-344-3555. For your local building codes, contact the appropriate municipal agency.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you are unsure or apprehensive about building your own chimney, it may be a good idea to hire a professional to build it for you. Professional masons will not only know how to design and build your chimney in the appropriate way, they will also be able to build it much faster and more efficiently.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,272 |
How to Build a Chopper Motorcycle
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1. Modifying a Motorcycle
1-1. Take advantage of an already-working motorcycle and chop it to taste.
Running the original motorcycle allows you to maintain registration or licensing more easily, as you are running an original manufacturer’s vehicle with their registration numbers.
Ride the motorcycle, get a feel for what you like "as is" and what you want to modify.
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Modify any original parts, taking advantage of the original mounting brackets and hardware.
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Add or subtract parts as time and money allow, while keeping the bike in running order, to minimize down time and prolong your riding enjoyment.
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1-2. Purchase and customize the rolling chassis.
A rolling chassis includes the frame, both wheels, the front forks, handlebars and clamps that hold the bars to the forks, and customize with body work and drivetrain.
The registration numbers belong to the frame, so you can start either with a salvage project from an original manufacturer, or with an aftermarket manufacturer specializing in rolling frames.
1-3. Install the drivetrain of your choice.
As the wheels, front suspension and frame already work together as a unit, you know what drivetrain will fit the basic dimensions of your bike, lessening the guesswork involved.
2. Building a New Kit Bike
2-1. Combine the challenge of building a new chopper from the ground up with the convenience of sourcing all the major components from one manufacturer.
This option may appeal to first-time builders in particular, as all the parts are designed and built to fit together; the manufacturer can address problems or warranty issues.
2-2. Prepare for added time, effort and space.
Have a well-lit, uncluttered space you can dedicate solely to the project. You will be building in stages, leaving you with a partially assembled chopper in this space for a long period of time.
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This option may cost the most up front, as you will be purchasing most or all the components of a new motorcycle at the same time.
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3. Building With Salvaged Parts
3-1. Start with one object, such as a gas tank, carburetor or set of wheels, and build a custom chopper around the theme imagined from that part.
Usually only advanced mechanics take on this option, as it entails a lot of time, resources and skill. Experienced chopper builders also understand what works or fits together and what doesn’t.
3-2. Work with a trusted source for parts.
Look for a large motorcycle shop or even a junkyard that has a dedicated area for motorcycles as a starting point, both as a parts source and a place to turn to for advice.
3-3. Develop a solid relationship with a speed shop.
Get mechanical assistance in building or rebuilding drivetrains, creating or modifying custom body parts and painting or plating bare metal.
Tips
Keep the original parts in case you don’t like the modification, or to use as a backup in case of breakdown. You can also sell the original parts to another owner of your make and model motorcycle.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Modifying a Motorcycle\\n1-1. Take advantage of an already-working motorcycle and chop it to taste.\\nRunning the original motorcycle allows you to maintain registration or licensing more easily, as you are running an original manufacturer’s vehicle with their registration numbers.\\nRide the motorcycle, get a feel for what you like \\\"as is\\\" and what you want to modify.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/0e\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/0e\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid694251-v4-728px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nModify any original parts, taking advantage of the original mounting brackets and hardware.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7f\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7f\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid694251-v4-728px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nAdd or subtract parts as time and money allow, while keeping the bike in running order, to minimize down time and prolong your riding enjoyment.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2e\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2e\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\\/aid694251-v4-728px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-2. Purchase and customize the rolling chassis.\\nA rolling chassis includes the frame, both wheels, the front forks, handlebars and clamps that hold the bars to the forks, and customize with body work and drivetrain.\\nThe registration numbers belong to the frame, so you can start either with a salvage project from an original manufacturer, or with an aftermarket manufacturer specializing in rolling frames.\\n1-3. Install the drivetrain of your choice.\\nAs the wheels, front suspension and frame already work together as a unit, you know what drivetrain will fit the basic dimensions of your bike, lessening the guesswork involved.\\n2. Building a New Kit Bike\\n2-1. Combine the challenge of building a new chopper from the ground up with the convenience of sourcing all the major components from one manufacturer.\\nThis option may appeal to first-time builders in particular, as all the parts are designed and built to fit together; the manufacturer can address problems or warranty issues.\\n2-2. Prepare for added time, effort and space.\\nHave a well-lit, uncluttered space you can dedicate solely to the project. You will be building in stages, leaving you with a partially assembled chopper in this space for a long period of time.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/ea\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/ea\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid694251-v4-728px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThis option may cost the most up front, as you will be purchasing most or all the components of a new motorcycle at the same time.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/e4\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/e4\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid694251-v4-728px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n3. Building With Salvaged Parts\\n3-1. Start with one object, such as a gas tank, carburetor or set of wheels, and build a custom chopper around the theme imagined from that part.\\nUsually only advanced mechanics take on this option, as it entails a lot of time, resources and skill. Experienced chopper builders also understand what works or fits together and what doesn’t.\\n3-2. Work with a trusted source for parts.\\nLook for a large motorcycle shop or even a junkyard that has a dedicated area for motorcycles as a starting point, both as a parts source and a place to turn to for advice.\\n3-3. Develop a solid relationship with a speed shop.\\nGet mechanical assistance in building or rebuilding drivetrains, creating or modifying custom body parts and painting or plating bare metal.\\nTips\\nKeep the original parts in case you don’t like the modification, or to use as a backup in case of breakdown. You can also sell the original parts to another owner of your make and model motorcycle.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Most motorcycle enthusiasts trace choppers back to World War II vets coming home from tours of duty, particularly in Europe, who wanted to rekindle some of the two-wheeled thrills experienced overseas. However, the US manufacturers produced bulkier bikes with bodywork, particularly fenders and bumpers, that resembled automobiles more than Europe’s lighter bikes. So riders started chopping off parts to lose weight and gain speed. Choppers were born. You can unleash the inner artist yourself, pursuing any of four main avenues to build a chopper motorcycle.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Modifying a Motorcycle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take advantage of an already-working motorcycle and chop it to taste.\", \"描述\": \"Running the original motorcycle allows you to maintain registration or licensing more easily, as you are running an original manufacturer’s vehicle with their registration numbers.\\nRide the motorcycle, get a feel for what you like \\\"as is\\\" and what you want to modify.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/0e\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/0e\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid694251-v4-728px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nModify any original parts, taking advantage of the original mounting brackets and hardware.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7f\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7f\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid694251-v4-728px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nAdd or subtract parts as time and money allow, while keeping the bike in running order, to minimize down time and prolong your riding enjoyment.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2e\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2e\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\\/aid694251-v4-728px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase and customize the rolling chassis.\", \"描述\": \"A rolling chassis includes the frame, both wheels, the front forks, handlebars and clamps that hold the bars to the forks, and customize with body work and drivetrain.\\nThe registration numbers belong to the frame, so you can start either with a salvage project from an original manufacturer, or with an aftermarket manufacturer specializing in rolling frames.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the drivetrain of your choice.\", \"描述\": \"As the wheels, front suspension and frame already work together as a unit, you know what drivetrain will fit the basic dimensions of your bike, lessening the guesswork involved.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a New Kit Bike\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Combine the challenge of building a new chopper from the ground up with the convenience of sourcing all the major components from one manufacturer.\", \"描述\": \"This option may appeal to first-time builders in particular, as all the parts are designed and built to fit together; the manufacturer can address problems or warranty issues.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare for added time, effort and space.\", \"描述\": \"Have a well-lit, uncluttered space you can dedicate solely to the project. You will be building in stages, leaving you with a partially assembled chopper in this space for a long period of time.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/ea\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/ea\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid694251-v4-728px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThis option may cost the most up front, as you will be purchasing most or all the components of a new motorcycle at the same time.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/e4\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/e4\\\\/Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid694251-v4-728px-Build-a-Chopper-Motorcycle-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building With Salvaged Parts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start with one object, such as a gas tank, carburetor or set of wheels, and build a custom chopper around the theme imagined from that part.\", \"描述\": \"Usually only advanced mechanics take on this option, as it entails a lot of time, resources and skill. Experienced chopper builders also understand what works or fits together and what doesn’t.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Work with a trusted source for parts.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a large motorcycle shop or even a junkyard that has a dedicated area for motorcycles as a starting point, both as a parts source and a place to turn to for advice.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Develop a solid relationship with a speed shop.\", \"描述\": \"Get mechanical assistance in building or rebuilding drivetrains, creating or modifying custom body parts and painting or plating bare metal.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Keep the original parts in case you don’t like the modification, or to use as a backup in case of breakdown. You can also sell the original parts to another owner of your make and model motorcycle.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,273 |
How to Build a Cinder Block Wall
|
1. Pouring the Footing
1-1. Determine the width of your wall.
To determine the width of your future wall, decide how many cinder blocks you want to use for the wall width, then calculate the width using the block's measurements. For example, if your cinder blocks are 8x8 in (20x20 cm) and you want to use 2 blocks to make up the wall's width, your total wall width would be 16 in (40 cm).
1-2. Measure the footing area.
The footing is the foundational base of the cinder block wall. It should be at least two times wider than the width of your block. Start by measuring the width of your future wall, then calculate the footing area. Use a tape measure to find the dimensions of the footing area on the ground.
For example, if your wall will be 3 feet (0.91 m) wide, your footing area should be between 6 feet (1.8 m) and 9 feet (2.7 m) wide.
Footing helps to spread the weight of a load-bearing wall across an area of soil. The taller and heavier your wall is, the wider the footing should be.
Your footers should be free any potential water seeping or pooling. Make sure that your planned footing areas are all set up to drain water away from the footing.
Remember to check with local building codes to make sure you are in compliance, as well.
1-3. Mark the footing area with 4 stakes.
Place a stake in each corner of the footing area. This will help you contain your poured footing in the enclosed space. The length of the wall is up to you, just remember to mark 2-3 times the width of your wall so you can install the footing.
1-4. Tie string along each stake to mark the perimeter of the footing area.
The string will create a barrier and help you stay within the marked lines when pouring the footing. Tie string from stake to stake around the perimeter of the area. This creates 4 straight lines -- 1 for each side of your wall.
1-5. Dig out the space between the lines.
Use a shovel to remove dirt from the footing area. Dig out about as much depth as the cinder blocks are long, plus 3 inches (7.6 cm). For example, if your cinder blocks are 7 inches (18 cm) long, dig out the footing area about 10 inches (25 cm) deep, making sure that the footing is located below the frost line.
If you are in the U.S., call the national Digline to request information for any local utilities that may run through your project area. Call at least 2 days in advance, and follow all guidelines and directions you receive.
1-6. Place steel rebars into your trench.
You'll have to use a rebar bender to form an “L” shape with your steel bars. One should be placed in each corner and be about half the width of your trench on each side. Once the rebar benders are in place, apply pressure until your 90 degree bend is completed. You will also want rebar placed vertically in every other masonry core, stabilized with coarse fill grout.
If your wall will be load-bearing, the horizontal tie rods should be set at least 6 inches (15 cm) into the footing.
Tap the block lightly with a rubber mallet to help the grout settle.
1-7. Mix concrete in a wheelbarrow.
Concrete mixes vary slightly from brand to brand, but most of them require adding water. Be sure to check the specific instructions for your concrete before doing any mixing. Follow the directions for mixing ratios and stir until the concrete mixture is fully combined.
Put on goggles, gloves, long sleeves and pants, and a mask before you mix the concrete.
1-8. Pour the wet concrete mixture into your footing trench.
Starting in 1 corner, tilt the wheelbarrow up by its handles and let the wet concrete drain out of it. Move slowly to the opposite end, continuing to pour. Repeat on the other side. Keep pouring until the trench is completely filled.
Use a hoe or a flat nosed shovel if any concrete sticks to the wheelbarrow.
Pour the concrete with great care. Kicking up dirt or debris could contaminate your mixture and create a non-binding or crumbling mix.
1-9. Smooth the surface of the concrete with a float.
After pouring wet concrete, it probably won't be perfectly flat or smooth. Use a float to smooth out any rough or spotty areas on the surface of your concrete. Let the concrete harden overnight before proceeding.
Use a notched trowel can provide a little bit of texture in the top of your concrete. The notches it creates will help the first row of blocks better adhere to the footer than they would on flat, smooth concrete.
2. Building the Base
2-1. Lay out the first layer of cinder blocks.
Starting at one end of the wall, lay out the cinder blocks, end to end, until you reach the first turn in the wall. If your wall is straight, line up the first layer of cinder blocks from one end to the other end. Put ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) plywood spacers in between the blocks. You will use spacers for straight walls and walls with turns.
2-2. Trace around the edges of the bricks from end to end.
Use a pencil to lightly trace around the entire chain of cinder blocks you set up. Trace around all 4 sides and mark where the spacers are, as well. Then pick the cinder blocks up and put them aside.
2-3. Spread mortar on the footing inside the marked area of the first block.
The mortar should completely cover the area where the first block will sit. Use a trowel to add mortar to the area between your traced lines. Spread the mortar to be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick.
You can use premixed mortar or buy a bag of mortar mix and mix it yourself according to the package directions. Mixing it yourself is usually the cheaper option.
2-4. Place the first cinder block on top of the mortar.
Line the cinder block up right over the prepared area, then gently lower it onto the mortar. Push the cinder block into the mortar very gently until it's sitting ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) above the footing.
2-5. Butter the "ears" of the second block with mortar.
The "ears" are the 2 protrusions (also called flanges) running from top to bottom on both ends of every cinder block. Buttering the ears simply means use your trowel to apply mortar directly on top of both flanges on 1 end of a cinder block. This connects the flanges of this block to the flanges of the 1 already in place.
You only need to use enough mortar to thinly cover the surface of the ears.
You only need to use mortar on the ears. Do not apply it to the space between the ears.
2-6. Push the new block into the base block.
Slide the block into the preceding block until their mortars meet. Keep pushing until there's only about ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) of mortar between each block.
2-7. Repeat the same process for the rest of the first layer of cinder blocks.
Spread 1 inch (2.5 cm) of mortar on the footing within the lines you traced for the block. Line the new block directly over the area, then gently place it on top of the mortar. Push the block into the mortar until it's sitting ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) above the footing. Butter the ears of the next block and continue.
2-8. Wipe any excess mortar off periodically.
Use your trowel to scrape any protruding mortar from the side of your wall. Do this every few blocks to make sure your mortar doesn't set before you have a chance to fix it.
3. Building Up and Around a Corner
3-1. Grab a half block.
Your brick set should have half blocks included. This will help to stagger the layout of your bricks and make your wall sturdier. You will also end each row with a half block. Half blocks are also known as corner blocks.
3-2. Spread mortar on the footing and ear of the half block.
Place it directly on top of your base block. Continue to build out along your base, spreading mortar on both the ears and footing of each cinder block.
3-3. Check your base blocks often with a level.
This will prevent you from building a crooked wall! Use a level often, every 10 minutes or so, so your mortar doesn't have a chance to harden before you can find and fix any issues. Be sure to check vertically as well as horizontally.
Press the mortar with your thumb once in a while to check for hardness. Once you can just barely dent the mortar with your thumb, it means the mortar is close to being set.
3-4. Use the same technique to build the wall up.
Repeat the buttering and laying blocks technique to build out the wall's second layer. Start the third layer with a regular cinder block and build out. Start the fourth layer with a half block, and continue starting layers with half blocks every other layer until your wall has reached the desired height.
3-5. Strike the joints with a rubber mallet or sledgehammer.
This will help to solidify the bricks in place. Do this shortly after checking the mortar to make sure it has hardened somewhat, but not completely.
If you choose to use a sledgehammer, be sure to use one that is 2 pounds (0.91 kg) or less. Rubber mallets tend to produce more consistent results with less chance of causing damage.
Strike the horizontal joints first using gentle pressure. Then strike the vertical joints gently. Scrape off the excess mortar and strike both joints once more.
3-6. Build up the corner with cinder blocks.
Once your wall is 3-4 blocks high, you're ready to turn the corner of your wall. Do the same things listed above, but remember to use alternating half blocks in either direction to make sure your wall remains sturdy. Use a large level often to make sure the corners are plumb and square.
Be sure that the joint line is staggered from block to block.
Tips
Build the corners first about 3 to 5 blocks high, then set the blocks in between them.
Use corner blocks on each end. These are the blocks with one finished end.
Warnings
Before building, be sure to check with your building code official. There may be certain restrictions on your wall.[20]
X
Research source
If your wall is over 4 feet (1.2 m), it most likely requires extra engineering and installation precautions.[21]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Pouring the Footing\\n1-1. Determine the width of your wall.\\nTo determine the width of your future wall, decide how many cinder blocks you want to use for the wall width, then calculate the width using the block's measurements. For example, if your cinder blocks are 8x8 in (20x20 cm) and you want to use 2 blocks to make up the wall's width, your total wall width would be 16 in (40 cm).\\n1-2. Measure the footing area.\\nThe footing is the foundational base of the cinder block wall. It should be at least two times wider than the width of your block. Start by measuring the width of your future wall, then calculate the footing area. Use a tape measure to find the dimensions of the footing area on the ground.\\nFor example, if your wall will be 3 feet (0.91 m) wide, your footing area should be between 6 feet (1.8 m) and 9 feet (2.7 m) wide.\\nFooting helps to spread the weight of a load-bearing wall across an area of soil. The taller and heavier your wall is, the wider the footing should be.\\nYour footers should be free any potential water seeping or pooling. Make sure that your planned footing areas are all set up to drain water away from the footing.\\nRemember to check with local building codes to make sure you are in compliance, as well.\\n1-3. Mark the footing area with 4 stakes.\\nPlace a stake in each corner of the footing area. This will help you contain your poured footing in the enclosed space. The length of the wall is up to you, just remember to mark 2-3 times the width of your wall so you can install the footing.\\n1-4. Tie string along each stake to mark the perimeter of the footing area.\\nThe string will create a barrier and help you stay within the marked lines when pouring the footing. Tie string from stake to stake around the perimeter of the area. This creates 4 straight lines -- 1 for each side of your wall.\\n1-5. Dig out the space between the lines.\\nUse a shovel to remove dirt from the footing area. Dig out about as much depth as the cinder blocks are long, plus 3 inches (7.6 cm). For example, if your cinder blocks are 7 inches (18 cm) long, dig out the footing area about 10 inches (25 cm) deep, making sure that the footing is located below the frost line.\\nIf you are in the U.S., call the national Digline to request information for any local utilities that may run through your project area. Call at least 2 days in advance, and follow all guidelines and directions you receive.\\n1-6. Place steel rebars into your trench.\\nYou'll have to use a rebar bender to form an “L” shape with your steel bars. One should be placed in each corner and be about half the width of your trench on each side. Once the rebar benders are in place, apply pressure until your 90 degree bend is completed. You will also want rebar placed vertically in every other masonry core, stabilized with coarse fill grout.\\nIf your wall will be load-bearing, the horizontal tie rods should be set at least 6 inches (15 cm) into the footing.\\nTap the block lightly with a rubber mallet to help the grout settle.\\n1-7. Mix concrete in a wheelbarrow.\\nConcrete mixes vary slightly from brand to brand, but most of them require adding water. Be sure to check the specific instructions for your concrete before doing any mixing. Follow the directions for mixing ratios and stir until the concrete mixture is fully combined.\\nPut on goggles, gloves, long sleeves and pants, and a mask before you mix the concrete.\\n1-8. Pour the wet concrete mixture into your footing trench.\\nStarting in 1 corner, tilt the wheelbarrow up by its handles and let the wet concrete drain out of it. Move slowly to the opposite end, continuing to pour. Repeat on the other side. Keep pouring until the trench is completely filled.\\nUse a hoe or a flat nosed shovel if any concrete sticks to the wheelbarrow.\\nPour the concrete with great care. Kicking up dirt or debris could contaminate your mixture and create a non-binding or crumbling mix.\\n1-9. Smooth the surface of the concrete with a float.\\nAfter pouring wet concrete, it probably won't be perfectly flat or smooth. Use a float to smooth out any rough or spotty areas on the surface of your concrete. Let the concrete harden overnight before proceeding.\\nUse a notched trowel can provide a little bit of texture in the top of your concrete. The notches it creates will help the first row of blocks better adhere to the footer than they would on flat, smooth concrete.\\n2. Building the Base\\n2-1. Lay out the first layer of cinder blocks.\\nStarting at one end of the wall, lay out the cinder blocks, end to end, until you reach the first turn in the wall. If your wall is straight, line up the first layer of cinder blocks from one end to the other end. Put ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) plywood spacers in between the blocks. You will use spacers for straight walls and walls with turns.\\n2-2. Trace around the edges of the bricks from end to end.\\nUse a pencil to lightly trace around the entire chain of cinder blocks you set up. Trace around all 4 sides and mark where the spacers are, as well. Then pick the cinder blocks up and put them aside.\\n2-3. Spread mortar on the footing inside the marked area of the first block.\\nThe mortar should completely cover the area where the first block will sit. Use a trowel to add mortar to the area between your traced lines. Spread the mortar to be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick.\\nYou can use premixed mortar or buy a bag of mortar mix and mix it yourself according to the package directions. Mixing it yourself is usually the cheaper option.\\n2-4. Place the first cinder block on top of the mortar.\\nLine the cinder block up right over the prepared area, then gently lower it onto the mortar. Push the cinder block into the mortar very gently until it's sitting ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) above the footing.\\n2-5. Butter the \\\"ears\\\" of the second block with mortar.\\nThe \\\"ears\\\" are the 2 protrusions (also called flanges) running from top to bottom on both ends of every cinder block. Buttering the ears simply means use your trowel to apply mortar directly on top of both flanges on 1 end of a cinder block. This connects the flanges of this block to the flanges of the 1 already in place.\\nYou only need to use enough mortar to thinly cover the surface of the ears.\\nYou only need to use mortar on the ears. Do not apply it to the space between the ears.\\n2-6. Push the new block into the base block.\\nSlide the block into the preceding block until their mortars meet. Keep pushing until there's only about ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) of mortar between each block.\\n2-7. Repeat the same process for the rest of the first layer of cinder blocks.\\nSpread 1 inch (2.5 cm) of mortar on the footing within the lines you traced for the block. Line the new block directly over the area, then gently place it on top of the mortar. Push the block into the mortar until it's sitting ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) above the footing. Butter the ears of the next block and continue.\\n2-8. Wipe any excess mortar off periodically.\\nUse your trowel to scrape any protruding mortar from the side of your wall. Do this every few blocks to make sure your mortar doesn't set before you have a chance to fix it.\\n3. Building Up and Around a Corner\\n3-1. Grab a half block.\\nYour brick set should have half blocks included. This will help to stagger the layout of your bricks and make your wall sturdier. You will also end each row with a half block. Half blocks are also known as corner blocks.\\n3-2. Spread mortar on the footing and ear of the half block.\\nPlace it directly on top of your base block. Continue to build out along your base, spreading mortar on both the ears and footing of each cinder block.\\n3-3. Check your base blocks often with a level.\\nThis will prevent you from building a crooked wall! Use a level often, every 10 minutes or so, so your mortar doesn't have a chance to harden before you can find and fix any issues. Be sure to check vertically as well as horizontally.\\nPress the mortar with your thumb once in a while to check for hardness. Once you can just barely dent the mortar with your thumb, it means the mortar is close to being set.\\n3-4. Use the same technique to build the wall up.\\nRepeat the buttering and laying blocks technique to build out the wall's second layer. Start the third layer with a regular cinder block and build out. Start the fourth layer with a half block, and continue starting layers with half blocks every other layer until your wall has reached the desired height.\\n3-5. Strike the joints with a rubber mallet or sledgehammer.\\nThis will help to solidify the bricks in place. Do this shortly after checking the mortar to make sure it has hardened somewhat, but not completely.\\nIf you choose to use a sledgehammer, be sure to use one that is 2 pounds (0.91 kg) or less. Rubber mallets tend to produce more consistent results with less chance of causing damage.\\nStrike the horizontal joints first using gentle pressure. Then strike the vertical joints gently. Scrape off the excess mortar and strike both joints once more.\\n3-6. Build up the corner with cinder blocks.\\nOnce your wall is 3-4 blocks high, you're ready to turn the corner of your wall. Do the same things listed above, but remember to use alternating half blocks in either direction to make sure your wall remains sturdy. Use a large level often to make sure the corners are plumb and square.\\nBe sure that the joint line is staggered from block to block.\\nTips\\nBuild the corners first about 3 to 5 blocks high, then set the blocks in between them.\\nUse corner blocks on each end. These are the blocks with one finished end.\\nWarnings\\nBefore building, be sure to check with your building code official. There may be certain restrictions on your wall.[20]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nIf your wall is over 4 feet (1.2 m), it most likely requires extra engineering and installation precautions.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you're building a retaining wall or just need some extra privacy, a cinder block wall is an affordable way to get the job done. Once you've got your base set up, it just takes some finesse in building the wall up and turning corners. Just a heads up, this can be an awfully tiring task so you may want to enlist a friend for some help!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pouring the Footing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the width of your wall.\", \"描述\": \"To determine the width of your future wall, decide how many cinder blocks you want to use for the wall width, then calculate the width using the block's measurements. For example, if your cinder blocks are 8x8 in (20x20 cm) and you want to use 2 blocks to make up the wall's width, your total wall width would be 16 in (40 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure the footing area.\", \"描述\": \"The footing is the foundational base of the cinder block wall. It should be at least two times wider than the width of your block. Start by measuring the width of your future wall, then calculate the footing area. Use a tape measure to find the dimensions of the footing area on the ground.\\nFor example, if your wall will be 3 feet (0.91 m) wide, your footing area should be between 6 feet (1.8 m) and 9 feet (2.7 m) wide.\\nFooting helps to spread the weight of a load-bearing wall across an area of soil. The taller and heavier your wall is, the wider the footing should be.\\nYour footers should be free any potential water seeping or pooling. Make sure that your planned footing areas are all set up to drain water away from the footing.\\nRemember to check with local building codes to make sure you are in compliance, as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the footing area with 4 stakes.\", \"描述\": \"Place a stake in each corner of the footing area. This will help you contain your poured footing in the enclosed space. The length of the wall is up to you, just remember to mark 2-3 times the width of your wall so you can install the footing.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tie string along each stake to mark the perimeter of the footing area.\", \"描述\": \"The string will create a barrier and help you stay within the marked lines when pouring the footing. Tie string from stake to stake around the perimeter of the area. This creates 4 straight lines -- 1 for each side of your wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Dig out the space between the lines.\", \"描述\": \"Use a shovel to remove dirt from the footing area. Dig out about as much depth as the cinder blocks are long, plus 3 inches (7.6 cm). For example, if your cinder blocks are 7 inches (18 cm) long, dig out the footing area about 10 inches (25 cm) deep, making sure that the footing is located below the frost line.\\nIf you are in the U.S., call the national Digline to request information for any local utilities that may run through your project area. Call at least 2 days in advance, and follow all guidelines and directions you receive.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place steel rebars into your trench.\", \"描述\": \"You'll have to use a rebar bender to form an “L” shape with your steel bars. One should be placed in each corner and be about half the width of your trench on each side. Once the rebar benders are in place, apply pressure until your 90 degree bend is completed. You will also want rebar placed vertically in every other masonry core, stabilized with coarse fill grout.\\nIf your wall will be load-bearing, the horizontal tie rods should be set at least 6 inches (15 cm) into the footing.\\nTap the block lightly with a rubber mallet to help the grout settle.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Mix concrete in a wheelbarrow.\", \"描述\": \"Concrete mixes vary slightly from brand to brand, but most of them require adding water. Be sure to check the specific instructions for your concrete before doing any mixing. Follow the directions for mixing ratios and stir until the concrete mixture is fully combined.\\nPut on goggles, gloves, long sleeves and pants, and a mask before you mix the concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Pour the wet concrete mixture into your footing trench.\", \"描述\": \"Starting in 1 corner, tilt the wheelbarrow up by its handles and let the wet concrete drain out of it. Move slowly to the opposite end, continuing to pour. Repeat on the other side. Keep pouring until the trench is completely filled.\\nUse a hoe or a flat nosed shovel if any concrete sticks to the wheelbarrow.\\nPour the concrete with great care. Kicking up dirt or debris could contaminate your mixture and create a non-binding or crumbling mix.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Smooth the surface of the concrete with a float.\", \"描述\": \"After pouring wet concrete, it probably won't be perfectly flat or smooth. Use a float to smooth out any rough or spotty areas on the surface of your concrete. Let the concrete harden overnight before proceeding.\\nUse a notched trowel can provide a little bit of texture in the top of your concrete. The notches it creates will help the first row of blocks better adhere to the footer than they would on flat, smooth concrete.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out the first layer of cinder blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Starting at one end of the wall, lay out the cinder blocks, end to end, until you reach the first turn in the wall. If your wall is straight, line up the first layer of cinder blocks from one end to the other end. Put ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) plywood spacers in between the blocks. You will use spacers for straight walls and walls with turns.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Trace around the edges of the bricks from end to end.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pencil to lightly trace around the entire chain of cinder blocks you set up. Trace around all 4 sides and mark where the spacers are, as well. Then pick the cinder blocks up and put them aside.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Spread mortar on the footing inside the marked area of the first block.\", \"描述\": \"The mortar should completely cover the area where the first block will sit. Use a trowel to add mortar to the area between your traced lines. Spread the mortar to be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick.\\nYou can use premixed mortar or buy a bag of mortar mix and mix it yourself according to the package directions. Mixing it yourself is usually the cheaper option.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the first cinder block on top of the mortar.\", \"描述\": \"Line the cinder block up right over the prepared area, then gently lower it onto the mortar. Push the cinder block into the mortar very gently until it's sitting ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) above the footing.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Butter the \\\"ears\\\" of the second block with mortar.\", \"描述\": \"The \\\"ears\\\" are the 2 protrusions (also called flanges) running from top to bottom on both ends of every cinder block. Buttering the ears simply means use your trowel to apply mortar directly on top of both flanges on 1 end of a cinder block. This connects the flanges of this block to the flanges of the 1 already in place.\\nYou only need to use enough mortar to thinly cover the surface of the ears.\\nYou only need to use mortar on the ears. Do not apply it to the space between the ears.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Push the new block into the base block.\", \"描述\": \"Slide the block into the preceding block until their mortars meet. Keep pushing until there's only about ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) of mortar between each block.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Repeat the same process for the rest of the first layer of cinder blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Spread 1 inch (2.5 cm) of mortar on the footing within the lines you traced for the block. Line the new block directly over the area, then gently place it on top of the mortar. Push the block into the mortar until it's sitting ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) above the footing. Butter the ears of the next block and continue.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Wipe any excess mortar off periodically.\", \"描述\": \"Use your trowel to scrape any protruding mortar from the side of your wall. Do this every few blocks to make sure your mortar doesn't set before you have a chance to fix it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building Up and Around a Corner\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Grab a half block.\", \"描述\": \"Your brick set should have half blocks included. This will help to stagger the layout of your bricks and make your wall sturdier. You will also end each row with a half block. Half blocks are also known as corner blocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Spread mortar on the footing and ear of the half block.\", \"描述\": \"Place it directly on top of your base block. Continue to build out along your base, spreading mortar on both the ears and footing of each cinder block.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Check your base blocks often with a level.\", \"描述\": \"This will prevent you from building a crooked wall! Use a level often, every 10 minutes or so, so your mortar doesn't have a chance to harden before you can find and fix any issues. Be sure to check vertically as well as horizontally.\\nPress the mortar with your thumb once in a while to check for hardness. Once you can just barely dent the mortar with your thumb, it means the mortar is close to being set.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use the same technique to build the wall up.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat the buttering and laying blocks technique to build out the wall's second layer. Start the third layer with a regular cinder block and build out. Start the fourth layer with a half block, and continue starting layers with half blocks every other layer until your wall has reached the desired height.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Strike the joints with a rubber mallet or sledgehammer.\", \"描述\": \"This will help to solidify the bricks in place. Do this shortly after checking the mortar to make sure it has hardened somewhat, but not completely.\\nIf you choose to use a sledgehammer, be sure to use one that is 2 pounds (0.91 kg) or less. Rubber mallets tend to produce more consistent results with less chance of causing damage.\\nStrike the horizontal joints first using gentle pressure. Then strike the vertical joints gently. Scrape off the excess mortar and strike both joints once more.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build up the corner with cinder blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Once your wall is 3-4 blocks high, you're ready to turn the corner of your wall. Do the same things listed above, but remember to use alternating half blocks in either direction to make sure your wall remains sturdy. Use a large level often to make sure the corners are plumb and square.\\nBe sure that the joint line is staggered from block to block.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Build the corners first about 3 to 5 blocks high, then set the blocks in between them.\\n\", \"Use corner blocks on each end. These are the blocks with one finished end.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Before building, be sure to check with your building code official. There may be certain restrictions on your wall.[20]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"If your wall is over 4 feet (1.2 m), it most likely requires extra engineering and installation precautions.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,274 |
How to Build a Circuit Board
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1. Design
1-1. Select your method of imprinting the circuit schematic on the copper board.
You can do this either using a Sharpie for a simple circuit or a printed out version from a computer program. Only one of these is needed, so select according to your preference.
1-2. Draw the circuit schematic on either graph paper or a simulation programs such as MultiSim or Eagle CAD.
The schematic should contain a detailed description of all parts, as well as easy to follow connections.
1-3. If a simulation program is being used, test the circuit thoroughly in the simulated environment.
If no simulation program is used, assemble and test one or more prototypes of the circuit on a breadboard. Breadboards are very easy to use, and allow one to view the results of a circuit in real time without the need for solder or permanent etches.
1-4. Make sure the circuit functions on the breadboard, or in the simulation software.
1-5. Acquire a circuit board.
Circuit boards are about a dollar apiece, and are simply a layer of copper over an insulator. The typical size is usually 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) by 5 inches (12.7 cm). Drawing is simple; all that is required is an indelible marker, such as a Sharpie. A ruler is also helpful.
1-6. Apply a printed design.
(Skip this step if you aren’t using the computer program and are using the Sharpie method.) Print the design out from the software's print menu. Make sure the print is on a glossy paper (like those in magazines or separate glossy paper).
Turn on the electric iron (the same one used for clothes).
Carefully cut out the design and position it on the circuit board.
Put the hot iron directly on top of the circuit board for about 45 seconds.
Take the circuit board (careful it's hot). Wash the paper out such that the black ink is stuck to the copper circuit board.
1-7. Alternatively:
Draw out your circuit on your board with the Sharpie. Note that it's really difficult to draw out a circuit design in real life, unless it's as simple as a led and a battery.
Keep in mind that copper cannot be between components, for example, if connecting an LED, there must be a gap in the copper between the positive and negative points of connectivity. Without a gap, the electricity would flow around the LED, as opposed to through it. Remember laws of electricity, all circuits must end at either a negative or ground, or no current will flow.
Use thin lines, but lay the ink on thick, it is important that the copper is dissolved before the ink, and that there are no thin patches in the ink exposing copper.
2. Etching
2-1. Put on old clothes, gloves and safety goggles.
2-2. Warm the ferric chloride, stored in a non-corrosive jar and sealed with a non-corrosive lid, in a bucket of warm water.
Do not heat it above 115 F (46 C) to prevent toxic fumes from being released.
2-3. Pour only enough ferric chloride to fill a plastic tray that has plastic risers in it to rest the circuit board on.
Be sure to do this in a well-ventilated space.
2-4. Use plastic tongs to lay the circuit board face down on the risers in the tray.
Allow 5 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of your circuit board, for the exposed copper to drop off the board as it etches away. Use the plastic tongs to agitate the board and tray to allow for faster etching if necessary.
2-5. Wash all the etching equipment and the circuit board thoroughly with plenty of running water.
2-6. Drill 0.03 inch (0.8 mm) lead component holes into your circuit board with high-speed steel or carbide drill bits.
Wear safety goggles and a protective mask to protect your eyes and lungs while you drill.
2-7. Scrub the board clean with a scouring pad and running water
Add your board's electrical components and solder them into place.
3. Assembly
3-1. Gather the following tools:
Hand-held Drill or Drill Press
Various drill bits
Soldering iron
Solder
3-2. Before drilling, locate all the positions of the through-hole components.
Copper dust is toxic, wear a dust mask.
3-3. Drill through the board with a bit wide enough to accommodate whatever part must be placed at that location.
Remember not to make the hole to wide, or soldering will be very difficult.
There are two types of components: Through hole components (have long legs) and SMDs (surface mount devices). For SMDs you don't need to drill because they are surface mounted, but through holes need holes in order for them to be soldered on. Through hole components enter the board from the opposite side of the copper.
3-4. Place the components on to the circuit board at their designated locations.
Gently bend the legs of the component against the underside of the board, to hold the part in place. Make sure parts with polarity are lined up correctly with the corresponding positive and negative. Check and double-check the location of all parts before soldering.
3-5. Soldering is a skill that requires practice, although it is not inherently difficult.
Please see Soldering Electronics for help.
3-6. Test your circuit board before installing it into its permanent location.
Use a multimeter, if possible, to diagnose connection problems. A De-soldering gun can be used to make minor switches and repairs.
Tips
Read a book on how to make printed circuit boards to help you understand how to design and build one.
Ammonium persulfate is an alternative etchant, or chemical used for etching, to ferric chloride.
Always wear old clothes, safety goggles, and gloves when handling ferric chloride or another dangerous chemical for the etching process.
Warnings
Never pour used ferric chloride down metal pipes or store it in a metal container. Ferric chloride corrodes metal and is poisonous.
Etching chemicals can stain clothes or plumbing fixtures. Store any etchant you use safely and exercise caution when using it.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Design\\n1-1. Select your method of imprinting the circuit schematic on the copper board.\\nYou can do this either using a Sharpie for a simple circuit or a printed out version from a computer program. Only one of these is needed, so select according to your preference.\\n1-2. Draw the circuit schematic on either graph paper or a simulation programs such as MultiSim or Eagle CAD.\\nThe schematic should contain a detailed description of all parts, as well as easy to follow connections.\\n1-3. If a simulation program is being used, test the circuit thoroughly in the simulated environment.\\nIf no simulation program is used, assemble and test one or more prototypes of the circuit on a breadboard. Breadboards are very easy to use, and allow one to view the results of a circuit in real time without the need for solder or permanent etches.\\n1-4. Make sure the circuit functions on the breadboard, or in the simulation software.\\n\\n1-5. Acquire a circuit board.\\nCircuit boards are about a dollar apiece, and are simply a layer of copper over an insulator. The typical size is usually 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) by 5 inches (12.7 cm). Drawing is simple; all that is required is an indelible marker, such as a Sharpie. A ruler is also helpful.\\n1-6. Apply a printed design.\\n(Skip this step if you aren’t using the computer program and are using the Sharpie method.) Print the design out from the software's print menu. Make sure the print is on a glossy paper (like those in magazines or separate glossy paper).\\nTurn on the electric iron (the same one used for clothes).\\nCarefully cut out the design and position it on the circuit board.\\nPut the hot iron directly on top of the circuit board for about 45 seconds.\\nTake the circuit board (careful it's hot). Wash the paper out such that the black ink is stuck to the copper circuit board.\\n1-7. Alternatively:\\nDraw out your circuit on your board with the Sharpie. Note that it's really difficult to draw out a circuit design in real life, unless it's as simple as a led and a battery.\\nKeep in mind that copper cannot be between components, for example, if connecting an LED, there must be a gap in the copper between the positive and negative points of connectivity. Without a gap, the electricity would flow around the LED, as opposed to through it. Remember laws of electricity, all circuits must end at either a negative or ground, or no current will flow.\\nUse thin lines, but lay the ink on thick, it is important that the copper is dissolved before the ink, and that there are no thin patches in the ink exposing copper.\\n2. Etching\\n2-1. Put on old clothes, gloves and safety goggles.\\n\\n2-2. Warm the ferric chloride, stored in a non-corrosive jar and sealed with a non-corrosive lid, in a bucket of warm water.\\nDo not heat it above 115 F (46 C) to prevent toxic fumes from being released.\\n2-3. Pour only enough ferric chloride to fill a plastic tray that has plastic risers in it to rest the circuit board on.\\nBe sure to do this in a well-ventilated space.\\n2-4. Use plastic tongs to lay the circuit board face down on the risers in the tray.\\nAllow 5 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of your circuit board, for the exposed copper to drop off the board as it etches away. Use the plastic tongs to agitate the board and tray to allow for faster etching if necessary.\\n2-5. Wash all the etching equipment and the circuit board thoroughly with plenty of running water.\\n\\n2-6. Drill 0.03 inch (0.8 mm) lead component holes into your circuit board with high-speed steel or carbide drill bits.\\nWear safety goggles and a protective mask to protect your eyes and lungs while you drill.\\n2-7. Scrub the board clean with a scouring pad and running water\\nAdd your board's electrical components and solder them into place.\\n3. Assembly\\n3-1. Gather the following tools:\\nHand-held Drill or Drill Press\\nVarious drill bits\\nSoldering iron\\nSolder\\n3-2. Before drilling, locate all the positions of the through-hole components.\\nCopper dust is toxic, wear a dust mask.\\n3-3. Drill through the board with a bit wide enough to accommodate whatever part must be placed at that location.\\nRemember not to make the hole to wide, or soldering will be very difficult.\\nThere are two types of components: Through hole components (have long legs) and SMDs (surface mount devices). For SMDs you don't need to drill because they are surface mounted, but through holes need holes in order for them to be soldered on. Through hole components enter the board from the opposite side of the copper.\\n3-4. Place the components on to the circuit board at their designated locations.\\nGently bend the legs of the component against the underside of the board, to hold the part in place. Make sure parts with polarity are lined up correctly with the corresponding positive and negative. Check and double-check the location of all parts before soldering.\\n3-5. Soldering is a skill that requires practice, although it is not inherently difficult.\\nPlease see Soldering Electronics for help.\\n3-6. Test your circuit board before installing it into its permanent location.\\nUse a multimeter, if possible, to diagnose connection problems. A De-soldering gun can be used to make minor switches and repairs.\\nTips\\nRead a book on how to make printed circuit boards to help you understand how to design and build one.\\nAmmonium persulfate is an alternative etchant, or chemical used for etching, to ferric chloride.\\nAlways wear old clothes, safety goggles, and gloves when handling ferric chloride or another dangerous chemical for the etching process.\\nWarnings\\nNever pour used ferric chloride down metal pipes or store it in a metal container. Ferric chloride corrodes metal and is poisonous.\\nEtching chemicals can stain clothes or plumbing fixtures. Store any etchant you use safely and exercise caution when using it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A handmade printed circuit board (PCB) is often used in robotics and electronics in general. Here are the basic steps to build a circuit board.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Design\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select your method of imprinting the circuit schematic on the copper board.\", \"描述\": \"You can do this either using a Sharpie for a simple circuit or a printed out version from a computer program. Only one of these is needed, so select according to your preference.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Draw the circuit schematic on either graph paper or a simulation programs such as MultiSim or Eagle CAD.\", \"描述\": \"The schematic should contain a detailed description of all parts, as well as easy to follow connections.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"If a simulation program is being used, test the circuit thoroughly in the simulated environment.\", \"描述\": \"If no simulation program is used, assemble and test one or more prototypes of the circuit on a breadboard. Breadboards are very easy to use, and allow one to view the results of a circuit in real time without the need for solder or permanent etches.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure the circuit functions on the breadboard, or in the simulation software.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Acquire a circuit board.\", \"描述\": \"Circuit boards are about a dollar apiece, and are simply a layer of copper over an insulator. The typical size is usually 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) by 5 inches (12.7 cm). Drawing is simple; all that is required is an indelible marker, such as a Sharpie. A ruler is also helpful.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Apply a printed design.\", \"描述\": \"(Skip this step if you aren’t using the computer program and are using the Sharpie method.) Print the design out from the software's print menu. Make sure the print is on a glossy paper (like those in magazines or separate glossy paper).\\nTurn on the electric iron (the same one used for clothes).\\nCarefully cut out the design and position it on the circuit board.\\nPut the hot iron directly on top of the circuit board for about 45 seconds.\\nTake the circuit board (careful it's hot). Wash the paper out such that the black ink is stuck to the copper circuit board.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Alternatively:\", \"描述\": \"Draw out your circuit on your board with the Sharpie. Note that it's really difficult to draw out a circuit design in real life, unless it's as simple as a led and a battery.\\nKeep in mind that copper cannot be between components, for example, if connecting an LED, there must be a gap in the copper between the positive and negative points of connectivity. Without a gap, the electricity would flow around the LED, as opposed to through it. Remember laws of electricity, all circuits must end at either a negative or ground, or no current will flow.\\nUse thin lines, but lay the ink on thick, it is important that the copper is dissolved before the ink, and that there are no thin patches in the ink exposing copper.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Etching\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put on old clothes, gloves and safety goggles.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Warm the ferric chloride, stored in a non-corrosive jar and sealed with a non-corrosive lid, in a bucket of warm water.\", \"描述\": \"Do not heat it above 115 F (46 C) to prevent toxic fumes from being released.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pour only enough ferric chloride to fill a plastic tray that has plastic risers in it to rest the circuit board on.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to do this in a well-ventilated space.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use plastic tongs to lay the circuit board face down on the risers in the tray.\", \"描述\": \"Allow 5 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of your circuit board, for the exposed copper to drop off the board as it etches away. Use the plastic tongs to agitate the board and tray to allow for faster etching if necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wash all the etching equipment and the circuit board thoroughly with plenty of running water.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill 0.03 inch (0.8 mm) lead component holes into your circuit board with high-speed steel or carbide drill bits.\", \"描述\": \"Wear safety goggles and a protective mask to protect your eyes and lungs while you drill.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Scrub the board clean with a scouring pad and running water\", \"描述\": \"Add your board's electrical components and solder them into place.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembly\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the following tools:\", \"描述\": \"Hand-held Drill or Drill Press\\nVarious drill bits\\nSoldering iron\\nSolder\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Before drilling, locate all the positions of the through-hole components.\", \"描述\": \"Copper dust is toxic, wear a dust mask.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill through the board with a bit wide enough to accommodate whatever part must be placed at that location.\", \"描述\": \"Remember not to make the hole to wide, or soldering will be very difficult.\\nThere are two types of components: Through hole components (have long legs) and SMDs (surface mount devices). For SMDs you don't need to drill because they are surface mounted, but through holes need holes in order for them to be soldered on. Through hole components enter the board from the opposite side of the copper.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the components on to the circuit board at their designated locations.\", \"描述\": \"Gently bend the legs of the component against the underside of the board, to hold the part in place. Make sure parts with polarity are lined up correctly with the corresponding positive and negative. Check and double-check the location of all parts before soldering.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Soldering is a skill that requires practice, although it is not inherently difficult.\", \"描述\": \"Please see Soldering Electronics for help.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Test your circuit board before installing it into its permanent location.\", \"描述\": \"Use a multimeter, if possible, to diagnose connection problems. A De-soldering gun can be used to make minor switches and repairs.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Read a book on how to make printed circuit boards to help you understand how to design and build one.\\n\", \"Ammonium persulfate is an alternative etchant, or chemical used for etching, to ferric chloride.\\n\", \"Always wear old clothes, safety goggles, and gloves when handling ferric chloride or another dangerous chemical for the etching process.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Never pour used ferric chloride down metal pipes or store it in a metal container. Ferric chloride corrodes metal and is poisonous.\\n\", \"Etching chemicals can stain clothes or plumbing fixtures. Store any etchant you use safely and exercise caution when using it.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,275 |
How to Build a City in Minecraft
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1. Choose the biome you want to build your city in.
In the latest update, you can choose a small number of seeds from a picture list.
Usually people prefer the Superflat biome and the terrain, as the name suggests, is flat. However, some people prefer to build in other biomes (Forests, hills, etc...) to give the city a more natural look. Keep in mind that terrains except for Superflat may need moderate to heavy terraforming.
An existing plains, desert or village will provide a place that you can build your structures with the least difficulty. Rugged mountains and natural tunnels can provide suitable funnel points to build walls and doors for security. These will make it more difficult for mobs to attack your team, or vandalize your structures.
2. Terraform the terrain.
Make sure you have a flat surface to start with.
Since houses of any city conventionally need to be built on a single level, or in other words, the base of the house needs to be flat, it is essential to terraform the terrain. Terraforming can be on a large scale (for the whole city/block) or on an individual, per-house scale. Apart from from making building convenient, terraforming also carries an aesthetic value if done properly. (Note: Terraforming can also cover up naturally spawned water bodies which may hinder the construction.)
3. Create a system of roads.
Without a well-designed system of roads, players won't be able to go anywhere.
Create functional roads that allow for many people to walk at the same time.
If you would like an alternate mode of transportation for the people who live in your city, include a Minecart path in the middle of the roads. This makes it so that people can walk or ride the Minecarts to where they need to go.
4. Build homes.
When designing homes, think of a design and layout that's aesthetically pleasing and functional.
You can either choose common materials (e.g wood, cobblestone, glass) or choose materials that fit your city's theme. Build homes that are big enough for one person to live comfortably but small enough for many homes to fit on one road.
Use height to your advantage. Put multiple rooms of the same size on top of each other to make a home that can house more than one person while using the least amount of space.
Make sure your home includes the basic structures for a person to live comfortably. A bed, chest, crafting table, and furnace are needed for a person to survive in Minecraft.
Start with the basic skeleton of the buildings, and add details later. For example, if you're building a hotel, you might want to just create the walls (don't fill them in yet) and place blocks where you want your different levels to be.
5. Create farms.
The people who live in your city will need food to survive.
Good crops to grow are wheat, potatoes, beets, and carrots. Watermelon is also a good crop to grow as it is a fast and renewable food source. Make sure to include water in your farm design as it will help your crops grow faster and more efficiently.
6. Create a mine.
As your city grows, it'll need resources like stone, iron, coal, and ores.
Fence off an area of your city to be a mine. There, mine down using your preferred method. Make sure to store the things you obtain in a chest or some other method of storage.
7. Build a school.
Your city's school should include at least one classroom with a lectern.
Build multiple classrooms on top of one another to make your school more realistic and spacious.
If you want to make your school even more realistic, you can build some of the common rooms found in a school such as a cafeteria, gym, or music room.
Tips
Experienced players can also use redstone contraptions to make it seem more lively.
Make sure you save your "world save" file when you are done.
Build your city with friends for even more fun!
Warnings
When you are in survival make sure you have it on peaceful to make sure that you don't get killed by any mobs.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choose the biome you want to build your city in.\\nIn the latest update, you can choose a small number of seeds from a picture list.\\nUsually people prefer the Superflat biome and the terrain, as the name suggests, is flat. However, some people prefer to build in other biomes (Forests, hills, etc...) to give the city a more natural look. Keep in mind that terrains except for Superflat may need moderate to heavy terraforming.\\nAn existing plains, desert or village will provide a place that you can build your structures with the least difficulty. Rugged mountains and natural tunnels can provide suitable funnel points to build walls and doors for security. These will make it more difficult for mobs to attack your team, or vandalize your structures.\\n2. Terraform the terrain.\\nMake sure you have a flat surface to start with.\\nSince houses of any city conventionally need to be built on a single level, or in other words, the base of the house needs to be flat, it is essential to terraform the terrain. Terraforming can be on a large scale (for the whole city/block) or on an individual, per-house scale. Apart from from making building convenient, terraforming also carries an aesthetic value if done properly. (Note: Terraforming can also cover up naturally spawned water bodies which may hinder the construction.)\\n3. Create a system of roads.\\nWithout a well-designed system of roads, players won't be able to go anywhere.\\nCreate functional roads that allow for many people to walk at the same time.\\nIf you would like an alternate mode of transportation for the people who live in your city, include a Minecart path in the middle of the roads. This makes it so that people can walk or ride the Minecarts to where they need to go.\\n4. Build homes.\\nWhen designing homes, think of a design and layout that's aesthetically pleasing and functional.\\nYou can either choose common materials (e.g wood, cobblestone, glass) or choose materials that fit your city's theme. Build homes that are big enough for one person to live comfortably but small enough for many homes to fit on one road.\\nUse height to your advantage. Put multiple rooms of the same size on top of each other to make a home that can house more than one person while using the least amount of space.\\nMake sure your home includes the basic structures for a person to live comfortably. A bed, chest, crafting table, and furnace are needed for a person to survive in Minecraft.\\nStart with the basic skeleton of the buildings, and add details later. For example, if you're building a hotel, you might want to just create the walls (don't fill them in yet) and place blocks where you want your different levels to be.\\n5. Create farms.\\nThe people who live in your city will need food to survive.\\nGood crops to grow are wheat, potatoes, beets, and carrots. Watermelon is also a good crop to grow as it is a fast and renewable food source. Make sure to include water in your farm design as it will help your crops grow faster and more efficiently.\\n6. Create a mine.\\nAs your city grows, it'll need resources like stone, iron, coal, and ores.\\nFence off an area of your city to be a mine. There, mine down using your preferred method. Make sure to store the things you obtain in a chest or some other method of storage.\\n7. Build a school.\\nYour city's school should include at least one classroom with a lectern.\\nBuild multiple classrooms on top of one another to make your school more realistic and spacious.\\nIf you want to make your school even more realistic, you can build some of the common rooms found in a school such as a cafeteria, gym, or music room.\\nTips\\nExperienced players can also use redstone contraptions to make it seem more lively.\\nMake sure you save your \\\"world save\\\" file when you are done.\\nBuild your city with friends for even more fun!\\nWarnings\\nWhen you are in survival make sure you have it on peaceful to make sure that you don't get killed by any mobs.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Minecraft creations on the Creative Mode have always fascinated us. The internet is full of wonders created in this game, and even you would have tried creating one, thinking, \\\"I'll make it big this time!\\\". But somehow, you end up with a mud house. Here are some things to keep in mind while creating your own city in Minecraft.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the biome you want to build your city in.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"In the latest update, you can choose a small number of seeds from a picture list.\", \"描述\": \"Usually people prefer the Superflat biome and the terrain, as the name suggests, is flat. However, some people prefer to build in other biomes (Forests, hills, etc...) to give the city a more natural look. Keep in mind that terrains except for Superflat may need moderate to heavy terraforming.\\nAn existing plains, desert or village will provide a place that you can build your structures with the least difficulty. Rugged mountains and natural tunnels can provide suitable funnel points to build walls and doors for security. These will make it more difficult for mobs to attack your team, or vandalize your structures.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Terraform the terrain.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure you have a flat surface to start with.\", \"描述\": \"Since houses of any city conventionally need to be built on a single level, or in other words, the base of the house needs to be flat, it is essential to terraform the terrain. Terraforming can be on a large scale (for the whole city/block) or on an individual, per-house scale. Apart from from making building convenient, terraforming also carries an aesthetic value if done properly. (Note: Terraforming can also cover up naturally spawned water bodies which may hinder the construction.)\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a system of roads.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Without a well-designed system of roads, players won't be able to go anywhere.\", \"描述\": \"Create functional roads that allow for many people to walk at the same time.\\nIf you would like an alternate mode of transportation for the people who live in your city, include a Minecart path in the middle of the roads. This makes it so that people can walk or ride the Minecarts to where they need to go.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build homes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"When designing homes, think of a design and layout that's aesthetically pleasing and functional.\", \"描述\": \"You can either choose common materials (e.g wood, cobblestone, glass) or choose materials that fit your city's theme. Build homes that are big enough for one person to live comfortably but small enough for many homes to fit on one road.\\nUse height to your advantage. Put multiple rooms of the same size on top of each other to make a home that can house more than one person while using the least amount of space.\\nMake sure your home includes the basic structures for a person to live comfortably. A bed, chest, crafting table, and furnace are needed for a person to survive in Minecraft.\\nStart with the basic skeleton of the buildings, and add details later. For example, if you're building a hotel, you might want to just create the walls (don't fill them in yet) and place blocks where you want your different levels to be.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create farms.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"The people who live in your city will need food to survive.\", \"描述\": \"Good crops to grow are wheat, potatoes, beets, and carrots. Watermelon is also a good crop to grow as it is a fast and renewable food source. Make sure to include water in your farm design as it will help your crops grow faster and more efficiently.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create a mine.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"As your city grows, it'll need resources like stone, iron, coal, and ores.\", \"描述\": \"Fence off an area of your city to be a mine. There, mine down using your preferred method. Make sure to store the things you obtain in a chest or some other method of storage.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Build a school.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Your city's school should include at least one classroom with a lectern.\", \"描述\": \"Build multiple classrooms on top of one another to make your school more realistic and spacious.\\nIf you want to make your school even more realistic, you can build some of the common rooms found in a school such as a cafeteria, gym, or music room.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Experienced players can also use redstone contraptions to make it seem more lively.\\n\", \"Make sure you save your \\\"world save\\\" file when you are done.\\n\", \"Build your city with friends for even more fun!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"When you are in survival make sure you have it on peaceful to make sure that you don't get killed by any mobs.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,276 |
How to Build a Climbing Wall
|
1. Designing Your Wall
1-1. Attach the climbing wall to the existing framework in your home if you can.
If you are a homeowner and want a permanent fixture for climbing, consider building your wall for added support. This makes it easier to build and design your wall since you have spatial restrictions. Look for a location in your home where you have enough space to maneuver and climb off the ground.
Consult with a contractor to make sure the existing structure can support the weight of your climbing wall while you or others are on it.
A common place to build a climbing wall is in a garage, but account for any storage space you need or space to park your car.
Check if there are electrical outlets in the space you want to build your wall. If so, make sure you can still easily access them if you need to.
1-2. Build a free-standing wall if you can’t put in a permanent fixture.
A free-standing wall doesn’t require anchor points or external support structures because they are already built in. Use a free-standing structure if you don’t want to damage any of the pre-existing walls in your home. You could also build a free-standing climbing wall outdoors.
A free-standing wall is best if you want to transport it or if you’re renting.
Free-standing walls tend to cost and weigh more since you need to build supports that can handle the weight of the wall and the climbers.
Outdoor walls need to be weatherproofed or else the holds will not last as long.
1-3. Visit climbing gyms for design inspiration.
Check your local recreation centers or climbing gyms to see how they have their walls laid out. Write down notes about the wall or draw simple sketches to get new ideas about how you may want to build your wall at home.
Consider putting walls at angles or inclines rather than flat against the wall.
Look online for photos of how others have built climbing walls at home to see the best way to make use of your space.
1-4. Make sketches of your climbing wall design on paper.
Draw the design in pencil so you can get ideas of how you want to lay out the wall in your space and make changes easily. Make your wall about 4 feet (1.2 m) wide by 8 feet (2.4 m) tall.Try out different inclines and angles in your drawing to see what would and wouldn’t work. Narrow down your ideas into the 3 you like the most to give you or the people you live with a choice.
Keep your wall at or below 8 feet (2.4 m) tall, or else falling off the wall could cause serious harm.
You can build a scale model using cardboard or computer software if you want to visualize the wall in 3D.
Typical angles for a climbing wall tend to be between 30-40 degrees from the wall.
1-5. Draw your design ideas on the wall with a pencil.
Use a pencil along with tape, string, and tacks to draw your design on the wall where you plan to build. Make sure everything from the drawing fits well in the actual space, or adjust your design so it fits the space.
Double check for any outlets, vents, or light fixtures that you may need to access when you build the wall.
Use a stud finder on your walls to find anchoring points if you plan on attaching your climbing surface directly to the wall.
2. Building the Framework
2-1. Build a support base if you’re making a free-standing wall.
Use 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to run vertical supports the same height as your wall. Then cut the 2 baseboards of your support so it’s double the length of the wall’s height. Attach the midpoint of the base to the bottom of the vertical support with a plate connector. Measure from the end of the base to the top of the wall to find the length of the angle. Cut 4 boards to that length, and saw each end to a 45-degree angle. Use plate connectors to connect the angled supports to the bases.
Frames can vary in shape and weight depending on the shape and height of the wall you plan on building.
For example, if you want an 8 ft (2.4 m) wall, your 2 bases would be 16 ft (4.9 m) and your 4 angled boards would be about 18 ft (5.5 m).
2-2. Cut 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to your wall’s desired height and width.
Use a circular saw or a hand saw to make your cuts. Cut the longest boards first before working on the shorter boards. Always double-check your measurements before making the final cut in your wood. Set aside each board after you cut them to size.
Purchase your boards from your local lumberyard or building supply store.
Aim to have the width of your wall around 4 feet (1.2 m) and the height around 8 feet (2.4 m)..
2-3. Assemble the boards into an outline of what you want the wall to look like.
Lay the boards on the floor in the shape of your wall so the narrow edges of the boards are face up. Use either a nail gun or hammer where the planks meet and place at least 2 nails at each intersection. Once it’s assembled, you’ll have the outer edges of a frame for your climbing wall.
If your wall is in a corner, make a frame for each climbing surface.
You can also use screws and a drill to make your frames.
If you want a wall that’s 8 ft × 4 ft (2.4 m × 1.2 m), the outline of your frame will be the same size.
2-4. Place vertical support beams every 16 in (41 cm) on center.
Use a pencil and a tape measure to mark your horizontal boards where you need to place a support beam. Cut the beams to size and place them inside your frame, using a nail gun or hammer to set them in place.
The term “on center” refers to spacing the center of each board at the specific distance. In this case, the center of each support board should equal 16 in (41 cm).
For a wall that’s 4 ft (1.2 m) wide on the bottom, you would place 2 more support beams that are 7 ⁄3 feet (2.3 m) in the middle of your frame.
2-5. Anchor the framework to your existing wall or support system.
Drill anchor screws through your frame and into the studs of your wall or support. Add screws every 12 in (30 cm) or wherever you notice the frame bowing away from your wall or support.
Make sure you know where anything may be behind your walls, such as wiring or pipes. Avoid drilling into them.
For a free-standing wall, make sure the support holds the full weight of the frame without tipping over. If there is any wobbling, add more weight to the base with extra boards.
3. Adding the Handholds
3-1. Cut ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood to match the size of your frame.
Make sure you have non-perforated wood rather than particle wood for the best support. Use a table saw or circular saw to cut your plywood down to the correct size to fit the frame. Try to keep the boards in the largest sheets possible so you can easily put the wall together.
Standard plywood sizes tend to be either 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) or 3 ft × 8 ft (0.91 m × 2.44 m). Purchase enough to cover all of the framework.
3-2. Drill holes in the plywood either in a grid or at random.
Use a ⁄16 in (1.1 cm) drill bit for each hole you plan on making. If you want a clean layout, draw a grid on the plywood so each square is 8 in × 8 in (20 cm × 20 cm). Drill your holes where the lines intersect. If you want a more eclectic look, put the holes in random spots.
How you drill the holes is a matter of preference. Either way will work for installing the handholds.
3-3. Hammer T-nuts into the back of each hole.
Use the same number of T-nuts as the number of holes you drilled into the plywood. Flip the sheet of plywood onto its back and use a hammer to pound the nuts into each hole. Make sure the back of the nut is flush with the back of the plywood.
T-nuts serve as an anchor point to attach each of the handholds.
3-4. Attach the plywood to the framework with nails or screws.
Put a nail or screw in the top, middle, and bottom of the plywood at each support beam. If you place 2 pieces of plywood next to one another and notice that it’s bowing, put another nail or screw in so it lays flat.
3-5. Screw in the handholds to make different climbing routes.
Place the hole in the handhold over one of the holes drilled in the wall. Use the screw provided with the handhold and a drill to secure it to the wall. Add as many handholds as you want depending on how easy or difficult you want the wall.
Handholds can be purchased online or at specialty climbing stores.
Some handholds can be attached with screws without a T-nut on the back.
Make routes on the wall using different colored handholds. For example, space red handholds farther apart to make a difficult route or place green handholds close together to make an easy route.
3-6. Place soft padding under the wall in case of falls.
Place foam gymnastic mats or thin mattress under the walls so you have a cushion in case you fall off the wall. Cover the area around your wall since you will not always fall straight down next to the wall.
Use thicker padding or double-layer what you have if you have a wall going higher than 8 feet (2.4 m).
Tips
Paint your climbing wall different colors if you want it pop or leave it plain if you prefer.
Warnings
Pad the bottom of the climbing wall in case anyone falls while they’re on the wall.
Use caution and safe practices when working with power tools.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing Your Wall\\n1-1. Attach the climbing wall to the existing framework in your home if you can.\\nIf you are a homeowner and want a permanent fixture for climbing, consider building your wall for added support. This makes it easier to build and design your wall since you have spatial restrictions. Look for a location in your home where you have enough space to maneuver and climb off the ground.\\nConsult with a contractor to make sure the existing structure can support the weight of your climbing wall while you or others are on it.\\nA common place to build a climbing wall is in a garage, but account for any storage space you need or space to park your car.\\nCheck if there are electrical outlets in the space you want to build your wall. If so, make sure you can still easily access them if you need to.\\n1-2. Build a free-standing wall if you can’t put in a permanent fixture.\\nA free-standing wall doesn’t require anchor points or external support structures because they are already built in. Use a free-standing structure if you don’t want to damage any of the pre-existing walls in your home. You could also build a free-standing climbing wall outdoors.\\nA free-standing wall is best if you want to transport it or if you’re renting.\\nFree-standing walls tend to cost and weigh more since you need to build supports that can handle the weight of the wall and the climbers.\\nOutdoor walls need to be weatherproofed or else the holds will not last as long.\\n1-3. Visit climbing gyms for design inspiration.\\nCheck your local recreation centers or climbing gyms to see how they have their walls laid out. Write down notes about the wall or draw simple sketches to get new ideas about how you may want to build your wall at home.\\nConsider putting walls at angles or inclines rather than flat against the wall.\\nLook online for photos of how others have built climbing walls at home to see the best way to make use of your space.\\n1-4. Make sketches of your climbing wall design on paper.\\nDraw the design in pencil so you can get ideas of how you want to lay out the wall in your space and make changes easily. Make your wall about 4 feet (1.2 m) wide by 8 feet (2.4 m) tall.Try out different inclines and angles in your drawing to see what would and wouldn’t work. Narrow down your ideas into the 3 you like the most to give you or the people you live with a choice.\\nKeep your wall at or below 8 feet (2.4 m) tall, or else falling off the wall could cause serious harm.\\nYou can build a scale model using cardboard or computer software if you want to visualize the wall in 3D.\\nTypical angles for a climbing wall tend to be between 30-40 degrees from the wall.\\n1-5. Draw your design ideas on the wall with a pencil.\\nUse a pencil along with tape, string, and tacks to draw your design on the wall where you plan to build. Make sure everything from the drawing fits well in the actual space, or adjust your design so it fits the space.\\nDouble check for any outlets, vents, or light fixtures that you may need to access when you build the wall.\\nUse a stud finder on your walls to find anchoring points if you plan on attaching your climbing surface directly to the wall.\\n2. Building the Framework\\n2-1. Build a support base if you’re making a free-standing wall.\\nUse 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to run vertical supports the same height as your wall. Then cut the 2 baseboards of your support so it’s double the length of the wall’s height. Attach the midpoint of the base to the bottom of the vertical support with a plate connector. Measure from the end of the base to the top of the wall to find the length of the angle. Cut 4 boards to that length, and saw each end to a 45-degree angle. Use plate connectors to connect the angled supports to the bases.\\nFrames can vary in shape and weight depending on the shape and height of the wall you plan on building.\\nFor example, if you want an 8 ft (2.4 m) wall, your 2 bases would be 16 ft (4.9 m) and your 4 angled boards would be about 18 ft (5.5 m).\\n2-2. Cut 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to your wall’s desired height and width.\\nUse a circular saw or a hand saw to make your cuts. Cut the longest boards first before working on the shorter boards. Always double-check your measurements before making the final cut in your wood. Set aside each board after you cut them to size.\\nPurchase your boards from your local lumberyard or building supply store.\\nAim to have the width of your wall around 4 feet (1.2 m) and the height around 8 feet (2.4 m)..\\n2-3. Assemble the boards into an outline of what you want the wall to look like.\\nLay the boards on the floor in the shape of your wall so the narrow edges of the boards are face up. Use either a nail gun or hammer where the planks meet and place at least 2 nails at each intersection. Once it’s assembled, you’ll have the outer edges of a frame for your climbing wall.\\nIf your wall is in a corner, make a frame for each climbing surface.\\nYou can also use screws and a drill to make your frames.\\nIf you want a wall that’s 8 ft × 4 ft (2.4 m × 1.2 m), the outline of your frame will be the same size.\\n2-4. Place vertical support beams every 16 in (41 cm) on center.\\nUse a pencil and a tape measure to mark your horizontal boards where you need to place a support beam. Cut the beams to size and place them inside your frame, using a nail gun or hammer to set them in place.\\nThe term “on center” refers to spacing the center of each board at the specific distance. In this case, the center of each support board should equal 16 in (41 cm).\\nFor a wall that’s 4 ft (1.2 m) wide on the bottom, you would place 2 more support beams that are 7 ⁄3 feet (2.3 m) in the middle of your frame.\\n2-5. Anchor the framework to your existing wall or support system.\\nDrill anchor screws through your frame and into the studs of your wall or support. Add screws every 12 in (30 cm) or wherever you notice the frame bowing away from your wall or support.\\nMake sure you know where anything may be behind your walls, such as wiring or pipes. Avoid drilling into them.\\nFor a free-standing wall, make sure the support holds the full weight of the frame without tipping over. If there is any wobbling, add more weight to the base with extra boards.\\n3. Adding the Handholds\\n3-1. Cut ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood to match the size of your frame.\\nMake sure you have non-perforated wood rather than particle wood for the best support. Use a table saw or circular saw to cut your plywood down to the correct size to fit the frame. Try to keep the boards in the largest sheets possible so you can easily put the wall together.\\nStandard plywood sizes tend to be either 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) or 3 ft × 8 ft (0.91 m × 2.44 m). Purchase enough to cover all of the framework.\\n3-2. Drill holes in the plywood either in a grid or at random.\\nUse a ⁄16 in (1.1 cm) drill bit for each hole you plan on making. If you want a clean layout, draw a grid on the plywood so each square is 8 in × 8 in (20 cm × 20 cm). Drill your holes where the lines intersect. If you want a more eclectic look, put the holes in random spots.\\nHow you drill the holes is a matter of preference. Either way will work for installing the handholds.\\n3-3. Hammer T-nuts into the back of each hole.\\nUse the same number of T-nuts as the number of holes you drilled into the plywood. Flip the sheet of plywood onto its back and use a hammer to pound the nuts into each hole. Make sure the back of the nut is flush with the back of the plywood.\\nT-nuts serve as an anchor point to attach each of the handholds.\\n3-4. Attach the plywood to the framework with nails or screws.\\nPut a nail or screw in the top, middle, and bottom of the plywood at each support beam. If you place 2 pieces of plywood next to one another and notice that it’s bowing, put another nail or screw in so it lays flat.\\n3-5. Screw in the handholds to make different climbing routes.\\nPlace the hole in the handhold over one of the holes drilled in the wall. Use the screw provided with the handhold and a drill to secure it to the wall. Add as many handholds as you want depending on how easy or difficult you want the wall.\\nHandholds can be purchased online or at specialty climbing stores.\\nSome handholds can be attached with screws without a T-nut on the back.\\nMake routes on the wall using different colored handholds. For example, space red handholds farther apart to make a difficult route or place green handholds close together to make an easy route.\\n3-6. Place soft padding under the wall in case of falls.\\nPlace foam gymnastic mats or thin mattress under the walls so you have a cushion in case you fall off the wall. Cover the area around your wall since you will not always fall straight down next to the wall.\\nUse thicker padding or double-layer what you have if you have a wall going higher than 8 feet (2.4 m).\\nTips\\nPaint your climbing wall different colors if you want it pop or leave it plain if you prefer.\\nWarnings\\nPad the bottom of the climbing wall in case anyone falls while they’re on the wall.\\nUse caution and safe practices when working with power tools.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Climbing is a popular exercise and recreational activity. While many commercial facilities and gyms now offer walls where you can pay to climb, it may be much more convenient and cost-effective to have a climbing wall in your home or backyard. By coming up with an effective design and making the wall, you can easily train and get a great workout at home!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing Your Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach the climbing wall to the existing framework in your home if you can.\", \"描述\": \"If you are a homeowner and want a permanent fixture for climbing, consider building your wall for added support. This makes it easier to build and design your wall since you have spatial restrictions. Look for a location in your home where you have enough space to maneuver and climb off the ground.\\nConsult with a contractor to make sure the existing structure can support the weight of your climbing wall while you or others are on it.\\nA common place to build a climbing wall is in a garage, but account for any storage space you need or space to park your car.\\nCheck if there are electrical outlets in the space you want to build your wall. If so, make sure you can still easily access them if you need to.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a free-standing wall if you can’t put in a permanent fixture.\", \"描述\": \"A free-standing wall doesn’t require anchor points or external support structures because they are already built in. Use a free-standing structure if you don’t want to damage any of the pre-existing walls in your home. You could also build a free-standing climbing wall outdoors.\\nA free-standing wall is best if you want to transport it or if you’re renting.\\nFree-standing walls tend to cost and weigh more since you need to build supports that can handle the weight of the wall and the climbers.\\nOutdoor walls need to be weatherproofed or else the holds will not last as long.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Visit climbing gyms for design inspiration.\", \"描述\": \"Check your local recreation centers or climbing gyms to see how they have their walls laid out. Write down notes about the wall or draw simple sketches to get new ideas about how you may want to build your wall at home.\\nConsider putting walls at angles or inclines rather than flat against the wall.\\nLook online for photos of how others have built climbing walls at home to see the best way to make use of your space.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sketches of your climbing wall design on paper.\", \"描述\": \"Draw the design in pencil so you can get ideas of how you want to lay out the wall in your space and make changes easily. Make your wall about 4 feet (1.2 m) wide by 8 feet (2.4 m) tall.Try out different inclines and angles in your drawing to see what would and wouldn’t work. Narrow down your ideas into the 3 you like the most to give you or the people you live with a choice.\\nKeep your wall at or below 8 feet (2.4 m) tall, or else falling off the wall could cause serious harm.\\nYou can build a scale model using cardboard or computer software if you want to visualize the wall in 3D.\\nTypical angles for a climbing wall tend to be between 30-40 degrees from the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Draw your design ideas on the wall with a pencil.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pencil along with tape, string, and tacks to draw your design on the wall where you plan to build. Make sure everything from the drawing fits well in the actual space, or adjust your design so it fits the space.\\nDouble check for any outlets, vents, or light fixtures that you may need to access when you build the wall.\\nUse a stud finder on your walls to find anchoring points if you plan on attaching your climbing surface directly to the wall.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Framework\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a support base if you’re making a free-standing wall.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to run vertical supports the same height as your wall. Then cut the 2 baseboards of your support so it’s double the length of the wall’s height. Attach the midpoint of the base to the bottom of the vertical support with a plate connector. Measure from the end of the base to the top of the wall to find the length of the angle. Cut 4 boards to that length, and saw each end to a 45-degree angle. Use plate connectors to connect the angled supports to the bases.\\nFrames can vary in shape and weight depending on the shape and height of the wall you plan on building.\\nFor example, if you want an 8 ft (2.4 m) wall, your 2 bases would be 16 ft (4.9 m) and your 4 angled boards would be about 18 ft (5.5 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to your wall’s desired height and width.\", \"描述\": \"Use a circular saw or a hand saw to make your cuts. Cut the longest boards first before working on the shorter boards. Always double-check your measurements before making the final cut in your wood. Set aside each board after you cut them to size.\\nPurchase your boards from your local lumberyard or building supply store.\\nAim to have the width of your wall around 4 feet (1.2 m) and the height around 8 feet (2.4 m)..\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assemble the boards into an outline of what you want the wall to look like.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the boards on the floor in the shape of your wall so the narrow edges of the boards are face up. Use either a nail gun or hammer where the planks meet and place at least 2 nails at each intersection. Once it’s assembled, you’ll have the outer edges of a frame for your climbing wall.\\nIf your wall is in a corner, make a frame for each climbing surface.\\nYou can also use screws and a drill to make your frames.\\nIf you want a wall that’s 8 ft × 4 ft (2.4 m × 1.2 m), the outline of your frame will be the same size.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place vertical support beams every 16 in (41 cm) on center.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pencil and a tape measure to mark your horizontal boards where you need to place a support beam. Cut the beams to size and place them inside your frame, using a nail gun or hammer to set them in place.\\nThe term “on center” refers to spacing the center of each board at the specific distance. In this case, the center of each support board should equal 16 in (41 cm).\\nFor a wall that’s 4 ft (1.2 m) wide on the bottom, you would place 2 more support beams that are 7 ⁄3 feet (2.3 m) in the middle of your frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Anchor the framework to your existing wall or support system.\", \"描述\": \"Drill anchor screws through your frame and into the studs of your wall or support. Add screws every 12 in (30 cm) or wherever you notice the frame bowing away from your wall or support.\\nMake sure you know where anything may be behind your walls, such as wiring or pipes. Avoid drilling into them.\\nFor a free-standing wall, make sure the support holds the full weight of the frame without tipping over. If there is any wobbling, add more weight to the base with extra boards.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding the Handholds\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood to match the size of your frame.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you have non-perforated wood rather than particle wood for the best support. Use a table saw or circular saw to cut your plywood down to the correct size to fit the frame. Try to keep the boards in the largest sheets possible so you can easily put the wall together.\\nStandard plywood sizes tend to be either 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) or 3 ft × 8 ft (0.91 m × 2.44 m). Purchase enough to cover all of the framework.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill holes in the plywood either in a grid or at random.\", \"描述\": \"Use a ⁄16 in (1.1 cm) drill bit for each hole you plan on making. If you want a clean layout, draw a grid on the plywood so each square is 8 in × 8 in (20 cm × 20 cm). Drill your holes where the lines intersect. If you want a more eclectic look, put the holes in random spots.\\nHow you drill the holes is a matter of preference. Either way will work for installing the handholds.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hammer T-nuts into the back of each hole.\", \"描述\": \"Use the same number of T-nuts as the number of holes you drilled into the plywood. Flip the sheet of plywood onto its back and use a hammer to pound the nuts into each hole. Make sure the back of the nut is flush with the back of the plywood.\\nT-nuts serve as an anchor point to attach each of the handholds.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the plywood to the framework with nails or screws.\", \"描述\": \"Put a nail or screw in the top, middle, and bottom of the plywood at each support beam. If you place 2 pieces of plywood next to one another and notice that it’s bowing, put another nail or screw in so it lays flat.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw in the handholds to make different climbing routes.\", \"描述\": \"Place the hole in the handhold over one of the holes drilled in the wall. Use the screw provided with the handhold and a drill to secure it to the wall. Add as many handholds as you want depending on how easy or difficult you want the wall.\\nHandholds can be purchased online or at specialty climbing stores.\\nSome handholds can be attached with screws without a T-nut on the back.\\nMake routes on the wall using different colored handholds. For example, space red handholds farther apart to make a difficult route or place green handholds close together to make an easy route.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place soft padding under the wall in case of falls.\", \"描述\": \"Place foam gymnastic mats or thin mattress under the walls so you have a cushion in case you fall off the wall. Cover the area around your wall since you will not always fall straight down next to the wall.\\nUse thicker padding or double-layer what you have if you have a wall going higher than 8 feet (2.4 m).\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Paint your climbing wall different colors if you want it pop or leave it plain if you prefer.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Pad the bottom of the climbing wall in case anyone falls while they’re on the wall.\\n\", \"Use caution and safe practices when working with power tools.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,277 |
How to Build a Closet
|
1. Steps
1-1. Decide where to locate your closet.
This can be the most difficult part of the process. The most logical place would be an alcove, the end of a hallway or on a wall without windows or doors to work around.
1-2. Lay out the walls and doors.
Whether it is a wall or walk-in closet will depend on the amount of room available to you.
1-3. Remove any base or ceiling trim and carpet from the area you have laid out for construction.
Be careful not to break the trim, since you will want to reuse it.
1-4. Install the framing, beginning with the base and top plate.
Attach the base with deck screws to the floor and the top plate to the ceiling. Use 4-inch (10.2 cm) toggle bolts and construction adhesive.
Nail or screw the end studs to side walls and to the top and base plates and rough in the door opening by nailing the studs to the top and bottom plates. Studs traditionally are on 16 inches (40.8 cm) spacing. Just use the spacing you have if width of your wall is greater than 16 inches (40.8 cm) but less than 24 inches (61.2 cm). Split the difference for better support of the sheathing if the width is greater than 24 inches (61.2 cm).
Rough in the door framing. This will include trimmer studs on each side of the door. Dimensions are normally 6 feet (1.8 m), 10.5 inches (1.83 m x 26.7 cm) tall attached to the wall studs and a doubled 2 x 4-foot (5.1 X 10.2 cm) door header nailed to the door trimmer with the end nailed to the wall stud.
Place short studs (called cripples) between the door header and ceiling plate. This will normally be centered on 16 inches (40.8 cm). The framing is complete.
1-5. Hang .5-inch (1.27 cm) sheetrock or sheathing on the walls.
Both sides of the framing use sheetrock screws. Cut sheetrock to size using a utility knife and a straight edge as a guide. Run the edge of sheathing to the roughed-in door openings.
Score the sheetrock with a utility knife. Begin breaking the sheetrock off with hand pressure and then with a straight edge (along the back side of the sheetrock). The sheetrock should snap off in one piece if it is scored deep enough.
1-6. Position the doors in the closet.
How to do this will depend on the type of doors chosen.
Insert the door into your rough opening if you are using a traditional prehung door (as for a walk-in-closet). Then, with a level, plumb the door using shims to keep it aligned. Install the trim supplied by the manufacturer around the door.
The use of a bi-fold door requires that you first trim out the door opening. Use trim similar to the floor trim you salvaged or that matches the trim in the room. Hang the door in place and adjust to fit, following manufacturer's instructions.
Install the accessories, however elaborate or simple, that fit your needs.
Tips
Prehung doors are the easiest to install in that they come with all of the hardware installed and with the trim to go around the door. These are available at most home improvement stores.[2]
X
Research source
A good way to see how the space for the closet and the room fit together is to chalk out the closet walls, then place any needed furniture to see if it works.
Check to see the width and height requirements for the rough opening for the door you've chosen (when using prehung or bifold doors).
Warnings
You will probably not need a building permit to install a closet. However, if you are adding electrical lighting or plugs, you may need an electrical permit which requires a licensed electrician to do the work. Check your local building codes.
Make sure that there are no existing electrical lines or plumbing in the way before installing or drilling into any existing walls.[3]
X
Research source
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Decide where to locate your closet.\\nThis can be the most difficult part of the process. The most logical place would be an alcove, the end of a hallway or on a wall without windows or doors to work around.\\n1-2. Lay out the walls and doors.\\nWhether it is a wall or walk-in closet will depend on the amount of room available to you.\\n1-3. Remove any base or ceiling trim and carpet from the area you have laid out for construction.\\nBe careful not to break the trim, since you will want to reuse it.\\n1-4. Install the framing, beginning with the base and top plate.\\nAttach the base with deck screws to the floor and the top plate to the ceiling. Use 4-inch (10.2 cm) toggle bolts and construction adhesive.\\nNail or screw the end studs to side walls and to the top and base plates and rough in the door opening by nailing the studs to the top and bottom plates. Studs traditionally are on 16 inches (40.8 cm) spacing. Just use the spacing you have if width of your wall is greater than 16 inches (40.8 cm) but less than 24 inches (61.2 cm). Split the difference for better support of the sheathing if the width is greater than 24 inches (61.2 cm).\\nRough in the door framing. This will include trimmer studs on each side of the door. Dimensions are normally 6 feet (1.8 m), 10.5 inches (1.83 m x 26.7 cm) tall attached to the wall studs and a doubled 2 x 4-foot (5.1 X 10.2 cm) door header nailed to the door trimmer with the end nailed to the wall stud.\\nPlace short studs (called cripples) between the door header and ceiling plate. This will normally be centered on 16 inches (40.8 cm). The framing is complete.\\n1-5. Hang .5-inch (1.27 cm) sheetrock or sheathing on the walls.\\nBoth sides of the framing use sheetrock screws. Cut sheetrock to size using a utility knife and a straight edge as a guide. Run the edge of sheathing to the roughed-in door openings.\\nScore the sheetrock with a utility knife. Begin breaking the sheetrock off with hand pressure and then with a straight edge (along the back side of the sheetrock). The sheetrock should snap off in one piece if it is scored deep enough.\\n1-6. Position the doors in the closet.\\nHow to do this will depend on the type of doors chosen.\\nInsert the door into your rough opening if you are using a traditional prehung door (as for a walk-in-closet). Then, with a level, plumb the door using shims to keep it aligned. Install the trim supplied by the manufacturer around the door.\\nThe use of a bi-fold door requires that you first trim out the door opening. Use trim similar to the floor trim you salvaged or that matches the trim in the room. Hang the door in place and adjust to fit, following manufacturer's instructions.\\nInstall the accessories, however elaborate or simple, that fit your needs.\\nTips\\nPrehung doors are the easiest to install in that they come with all of the hardware installed and with the trim to go around the door. These are available at most home improvement stores.[2]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nA good way to see how the space for the closet and the room fit together is to chalk out the closet walls, then place any needed furniture to see if it works.\\nCheck to see the width and height requirements for the rough opening for the door you've chosen (when using prehung or bifold doors).\\nWarnings\\nYou will probably not need a building permit to install a closet. However, if you are adding electrical lighting or plugs, you may need an electrical permit which requires a licensed electrician to do the work. Check your local building codes.\\nMake sure that there are no existing electrical lines or plumbing in the way before installing or drilling into any existing walls.[3]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A closet is often the most under appreciated room in a house - until you need one. Then the storage space it represents becomes a valuable asset. It does not take a professional to build a closet only a willingness to set aside some time and have access to both hand tools and basic power tools.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide where to locate your closet.\", \"描述\": \"This can be the most difficult part of the process. The most logical place would be an alcove, the end of a hallway or on a wall without windows or doors to work around.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay out the walls and doors.\", \"描述\": \"Whether it is a wall or walk-in closet will depend on the amount of room available to you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove any base or ceiling trim and carpet from the area you have laid out for construction.\", \"描述\": \"Be careful not to break the trim, since you will want to reuse it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the framing, beginning with the base and top plate.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the base with deck screws to the floor and the top plate to the ceiling. Use 4-inch (10.2 cm) toggle bolts and construction adhesive.\\nNail or screw the end studs to side walls and to the top and base plates and rough in the door opening by nailing the studs to the top and bottom plates. Studs traditionally are on 16 inches (40.8 cm) spacing. Just use the spacing you have if width of your wall is greater than 16 inches (40.8 cm) but less than 24 inches (61.2 cm). Split the difference for better support of the sheathing if the width is greater than 24 inches (61.2 cm).\\nRough in the door framing. This will include trimmer studs on each side of the door. Dimensions are normally 6 feet (1.8 m), 10.5 inches (1.83 m x 26.7 cm) tall attached to the wall studs and a doubled 2 x 4-foot (5.1 X 10.2 cm) door header nailed to the door trimmer with the end nailed to the wall stud.\\nPlace short studs (called cripples) between the door header and ceiling plate. This will normally be centered on 16 inches (40.8 cm). The framing is complete.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Hang .5-inch (1.27 cm) sheetrock or sheathing on the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Both sides of the framing use sheetrock screws. Cut sheetrock to size using a utility knife and a straight edge as a guide. Run the edge of sheathing to the roughed-in door openings.\\nScore the sheetrock with a utility knife. Begin breaking the sheetrock off with hand pressure and then with a straight edge (along the back side of the sheetrock). The sheetrock should snap off in one piece if it is scored deep enough.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Position the doors in the closet.\", \"描述\": \"How to do this will depend on the type of doors chosen.\\nInsert the door into your rough opening if you are using a traditional prehung door (as for a walk-in-closet). Then, with a level, plumb the door using shims to keep it aligned. Install the trim supplied by the manufacturer around the door.\\nThe use of a bi-fold door requires that you first trim out the door opening. Use trim similar to the floor trim you salvaged or that matches the trim in the room. Hang the door in place and adjust to fit, following manufacturer's instructions.\\nInstall the accessories, however elaborate or simple, that fit your needs.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Prehung doors are the easiest to install in that they come with all of the hardware installed and with the trim to go around the door. These are available at most home improvement stores.[2]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"A good way to see how the space for the closet and the room fit together is to chalk out the closet walls, then place any needed furniture to see if it works.\\n\", \"Check to see the width and height requirements for the rough opening for the door you've chosen (when using prehung or bifold doors).\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"You will probably not need a building permit to install a closet. However, if you are adding electrical lighting or plugs, you may need an electrical permit which requires a licensed electrician to do the work. Check your local building codes.\\n\", \"Make sure that there are no existing electrical lines or plumbing in the way before installing or drilling into any existing walls.[3]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,278 |
How to Build a Coffee Table
|
1. Making the Apron
1-1. Cut 2 pieces of 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) wood to 42 in (110 cm) long.
Measure the length of your board and mark where you plan to make your cut with a pencil. Use a miter saw to cut an 8 feet (2.4 m) board down to size. If you don't have access to a miter saw, set the board on a workbench or between 2 saw horses and use a handsaw.
Wear eye protection while working with power tools to prevent sawdust from getting in your eyes.
You can work with any kind of wood you want. If you want to be cost-effective, use pine or oak. For an upscale look that's also durable, use maple or walnut.
1-2. Saw 3 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to 24 in (61 cm) long.
Use another 8 ft (2.4 m) board, and cut the 3 shorter pieces with a miter saw or hand saw. Make sure the edges are straight so they lay flush with the other boards.
The size of the table you build can vary depending on how much space you have.
1-3. Arrange the boards in a rectangle on the floor.
Lay the boards so the narrow sides are on the ground. Place 2 of the shorter boards between the ends of the longer ones to form corners. Put the third board in the middle to form a support beam.
If you want the corners to look cleaner, cut the ends of each board to a 45-degree angle before putting them together.
1-4. Nail the corners of the boards together to secure them.
Use 2 in (5.1 cm) finishing nails on the sides of the 42 in (110 cm) boards. Pound 2 nails through the boards on each end of the shorter pieces to hold them in place. Make sure the corners are flush as you secure the boards.
This forms the apron on the underside of the table so you can easily attach the tabletop and legs.
2. Adding a Tabletop
2-1. Use a 48 in × 28 in (122 cm × 71 cm) plywood sheet if you want a solid tabletop.
Use a solid piece of plywood that's at least 1 in (2.5 cm) thick. Make sure you use the same type of wood that you used to make the apron for a consistent look. Avoid using chipboard or particle board since it's not as sturdy. Cut the board with a table saw to bring it down to size.
Visit your local lumber yard to see what sizes of boards are available and see if they can cut it for you.
2-2. Make the surface out of multiple boards for a rustic look.
Purchase 3 1 in × 10 in (2.5 cm × 25.4 cm) boards that are 4 ft (1.2 m) long. Lay one of the boards on the middle of the apron so it's 8 in (20 cm) from each end. Mark where the edges line up with a pencil.
You can use thinner or wider boards depending on how much wood you want to use.
2-3. Apply wood glue to the top of the apron.
Take the boards or plywood off the top of the apron. Squeeze a line of wood glue on top of the apron, and spread it evenly across the surface with a foam brush or finger. Wipe off any excess wood glue with the edge of your foam brush.
If you're making a tabletop out of multiple boards, only put wood glue on the apron where you'll put the middle board.
2-4. Press the tabletop onto the apron so there's 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) of overhang.
Press the sheet of plywood or the middle board onto the surface and hold it there for 30 seconds to 1 minute. This ensures the glue gets a maximum amount of coverage and will hold better.
If you don't want to hold the wood in place after setting it down, place something heavy on the spots you glued.
Work quickly since wood glue can dry within 20 minutes.
2-5. Nail the tabletop into place to secure it.
Use your 2 in (5.1 cm) finishing nails and your hammer to keep the tabletop in place. Drive the nails in from the top of your table into the apron underneath. Put in 2 nails at each end of the tabletop as well as 2 nails into the middle support of the apron. Make sure the nails are flat against the table's surface.
When you're making a tabletop from multiple boards, glue and nail down 1 board at a time.
Look for any areas of the table bowing away from the apron. If you notice this happening, put in more nails to hold it tight.
Although wood glue takes 24 hours to set completely, nailing the tabletop to the apron will hold the pieces together so you can keep building.
3. Attaching the Legs
3-1. Flip the table over so it's upside-down.
Grab the overhang of the table and lift it. Tip the table up and over so the apron faces the ceiling. Gently set the table back down on the ground.
Ask a friend to help you if the table is too heavy to lift on your own.
Don't slide your hands against the wood grain or else you could get a splinter.
3-2. Cut 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) plywood into 4 17 in (43 cm) long pieces.
Cut down an 8 ft (2.4 m) piece of wood into 4 equal sections using a miter saw or hand saw. Make sure the ends of the pieces are flat so they can stand up without wobbling.
If your wood pieces wobble, use a sander to flatten the ends.
Adjust the height of the legs accordingly to how tall you want the table.
3-3. Pre-drill 4 holes in each corner and leg.
Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of your screws. Set the 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) pieces in each corner so the sides of the legs are against the apron. Make 2 holes 2 in (5.1 cm) from the end of the apron, making sure the drill goes into the leg as well. Repeat the process for the other side of the leg against the apron.
Stagger the height of the holes so screws won't run into one another.
3-4. Screw 4 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) construction screws from the apron into each leg.
Hold the screws in the holes you drilled and use an electric screwdriver to secure the legs. Tighten the screws until they lay flush with the surface of the wood so they aren't as noticeable.
Use darker colored screws on darker wood and light colored screws on light wood to conceal them better.
3-5. Sand the legs if they don't lay even.
Flip the table rightside up to see if it wobbles or sits crooked on the floor. If so, use a coarse-grit sandpaper to shorten the longer legs so they're even with the shortest leg.
An electric belt sander will work faster if you have access to one.
Be careful not to over sand the legs or else the table may still wobble.
4. Putting on a Finish
4-1. Sand the entire table with a sanding block.
Use a 320-grit sanding block to smooth all the surfaces on your table. Work across the top, sides, legs, and apron so there's no chance of anyone getting a splinter if they run their hand across it. Round the corners of the tabletop if you don't want them to have a sharp edge.
Use an electric sander if you want to get your work done faster.
Wear a face mask and eye protection so sawdust doesn't get in your eyes.
4-2. Stain the wood
Pick a dark or light stain depending on the rest of the room's design. Dip the bristles of a paintbrush into the stain and let the excess drip off. Work in long back and forth strokes to evenly coat the table. Wipe off excess stain with a dry cloth to get a uniform finish. Let the stain dry for 8 hours before adding a second coat.
Put your table on a painter's tarp so you don't spill stain on your floors.
4-3. Paint the wood to make it a solid color.
Put a thin coat of primer on the surface of your table so the paint can bond easier and stay true to its color. Allow the primer to dry for 1-2 hours before putting on any paint. Work in long back and forth strokes along the wood grain to evenly coat the table. Let the paint dry for at least 3-4 hours before applying a second coat.
Paint your table a color to match other furniture in your room.
4-4. Apply a polyurethane wood finish
Work in a well-ventilated area when applying the finish. Use a paintbrush and work with the grain of the table to seal the wood and prevent moisture from coming in. Let the polyurethane coat dry for an hour or 2 before applying a second coat.
Polyurethane finish can be purchased at your local hardware store.
Tips
Use coasters on your table to help it last longer.
Attach felt to the bottom of the legs if you want the table to slide around without damaging your floors.
Warnings
Wear eye protection when working with power tools or while sanding to avoid getting sawdust in your eyes.
Use caution when working with electric saws.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the Apron\\n1-1. Cut 2 pieces of 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) wood to 42 in (110 cm) long.\\nMeasure the length of your board and mark where you plan to make your cut with a pencil. Use a miter saw to cut an 8 feet (2.4 m) board down to size. If you don't have access to a miter saw, set the board on a workbench or between 2 saw horses and use a handsaw.\\nWear eye protection while working with power tools to prevent sawdust from getting in your eyes.\\nYou can work with any kind of wood you want. If you want to be cost-effective, use pine or oak. For an upscale look that's also durable, use maple or walnut.\\n1-2. Saw 3 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to 24 in (61 cm) long.\\nUse another 8 ft (2.4 m) board, and cut the 3 shorter pieces with a miter saw or hand saw. Make sure the edges are straight so they lay flush with the other boards.\\nThe size of the table you build can vary depending on how much space you have.\\n1-3. Arrange the boards in a rectangle on the floor.\\nLay the boards so the narrow sides are on the ground. Place 2 of the shorter boards between the ends of the longer ones to form corners. Put the third board in the middle to form a support beam.\\nIf you want the corners to look cleaner, cut the ends of each board to a 45-degree angle before putting them together.\\n1-4. Nail the corners of the boards together to secure them.\\nUse 2 in (5.1 cm) finishing nails on the sides of the 42 in (110 cm) boards. Pound 2 nails through the boards on each end of the shorter pieces to hold them in place. Make sure the corners are flush as you secure the boards.\\nThis forms the apron on the underside of the table so you can easily attach the tabletop and legs.\\n2. Adding a Tabletop\\n2-1. Use a 48 in × 28 in (122 cm × 71 cm) plywood sheet if you want a solid tabletop.\\nUse a solid piece of plywood that's at least 1 in (2.5 cm) thick. Make sure you use the same type of wood that you used to make the apron for a consistent look. Avoid using chipboard or particle board since it's not as sturdy. Cut the board with a table saw to bring it down to size.\\nVisit your local lumber yard to see what sizes of boards are available and see if they can cut it for you.\\n2-2. Make the surface out of multiple boards for a rustic look.\\nPurchase 3 1 in × 10 in (2.5 cm × 25.4 cm) boards that are 4 ft (1.2 m) long. Lay one of the boards on the middle of the apron so it's 8 in (20 cm) from each end. Mark where the edges line up with a pencil.\\nYou can use thinner or wider boards depending on how much wood you want to use.\\n2-3. Apply wood glue to the top of the apron.\\nTake the boards or plywood off the top of the apron. Squeeze a line of wood glue on top of the apron, and spread it evenly across the surface with a foam brush or finger. Wipe off any excess wood glue with the edge of your foam brush.\\nIf you're making a tabletop out of multiple boards, only put wood glue on the apron where you'll put the middle board.\\n2-4. Press the tabletop onto the apron so there's 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) of overhang.\\nPress the sheet of plywood or the middle board onto the surface and hold it there for 30 seconds to 1 minute. This ensures the glue gets a maximum amount of coverage and will hold better.\\nIf you don't want to hold the wood in place after setting it down, place something heavy on the spots you glued.\\nWork quickly since wood glue can dry within 20 minutes.\\n2-5. Nail the tabletop into place to secure it.\\nUse your 2 in (5.1 cm) finishing nails and your hammer to keep the tabletop in place. Drive the nails in from the top of your table into the apron underneath. Put in 2 nails at each end of the tabletop as well as 2 nails into the middle support of the apron. Make sure the nails are flat against the table's surface.\\nWhen you're making a tabletop from multiple boards, glue and nail down 1 board at a time.\\nLook for any areas of the table bowing away from the apron. If you notice this happening, put in more nails to hold it tight.\\nAlthough wood glue takes 24 hours to set completely, nailing the tabletop to the apron will hold the pieces together so you can keep building.\\n3. Attaching the Legs\\n3-1. Flip the table over so it's upside-down.\\nGrab the overhang of the table and lift it. Tip the table up and over so the apron faces the ceiling. Gently set the table back down on the ground.\\nAsk a friend to help you if the table is too heavy to lift on your own.\\nDon't slide your hands against the wood grain or else you could get a splinter.\\n3-2. Cut 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) plywood into 4 17 in (43 cm) long pieces.\\nCut down an 8 ft (2.4 m) piece of wood into 4 equal sections using a miter saw or hand saw. Make sure the ends of the pieces are flat so they can stand up without wobbling.\\nIf your wood pieces wobble, use a sander to flatten the ends.\\nAdjust the height of the legs accordingly to how tall you want the table.\\n3-3. Pre-drill 4 holes in each corner and leg.\\nUse a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of your screws. Set the 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) pieces in each corner so the sides of the legs are against the apron. Make 2 holes 2 in (5.1 cm) from the end of the apron, making sure the drill goes into the leg as well. Repeat the process for the other side of the leg against the apron.\\nStagger the height of the holes so screws won't run into one another.\\n3-4. Screw 4 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) construction screws from the apron into each leg.\\nHold the screws in the holes you drilled and use an electric screwdriver to secure the legs. Tighten the screws until they lay flush with the surface of the wood so they aren't as noticeable.\\nUse darker colored screws on darker wood and light colored screws on light wood to conceal them better.\\n3-5. Sand the legs if they don't lay even.\\nFlip the table rightside up to see if it wobbles or sits crooked on the floor. If so, use a coarse-grit sandpaper to shorten the longer legs so they're even with the shortest leg.\\nAn electric belt sander will work faster if you have access to one.\\nBe careful not to over sand the legs or else the table may still wobble.\\n4. Putting on a Finish\\n4-1. Sand the entire table with a sanding block.\\nUse a 320-grit sanding block to smooth all the surfaces on your table. Work across the top, sides, legs, and apron so there's no chance of anyone getting a splinter if they run their hand across it. Round the corners of the tabletop if you don't want them to have a sharp edge.\\nUse an electric sander if you want to get your work done faster.\\nWear a face mask and eye protection so sawdust doesn't get in your eyes.\\n4-2. Stain the wood\\nPick a dark or light stain depending on the rest of the room's design. Dip the bristles of a paintbrush into the stain and let the excess drip off. Work in long back and forth strokes to evenly coat the table. Wipe off excess stain with a dry cloth to get a uniform finish. Let the stain dry for 8 hours before adding a second coat.\\nPut your table on a painter's tarp so you don't spill stain on your floors.\\n4-3. Paint the wood to make it a solid color.\\nPut a thin coat of primer on the surface of your table so the paint can bond easier and stay true to its color. Allow the primer to dry for 1-2 hours before putting on any paint. Work in long back and forth strokes along the wood grain to evenly coat the table. Let the paint dry for at least 3-4 hours before applying a second coat.\\nPaint your table a color to match other furniture in your room.\\n4-4. Apply a polyurethane wood finish\\nWork in a well-ventilated area when applying the finish. Use a paintbrush and work with the grain of the table to seal the wood and prevent moisture from coming in. Let the polyurethane coat dry for an hour or 2 before applying a second coat.\\nPolyurethane finish can be purchased at your local hardware store.\\nTips\\nUse coasters on your table to help it last longer.\\nAttach felt to the bottom of the legs if you want the table to slide around without damaging your floors.\\nWarnings\\nWear eye protection when working with power tools or while sanding to avoid getting sawdust in your eyes.\\nUse caution when working with electric saws.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Coffee tables are easy to make if you're just starting in woodworking or if you want custom furniture in your home. A table consists of the top, an apron that hangs down underneath the table, and the legs. With a few simple tools, you can make your own table that's a great centerpiece for your home!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the Apron\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 pieces of 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) wood to 42 in (110 cm) long.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the length of your board and mark where you plan to make your cut with a pencil. Use a miter saw to cut an 8 feet (2.4 m) board down to size. If you don't have access to a miter saw, set the board on a workbench or between 2 saw horses and use a handsaw.\\nWear eye protection while working with power tools to prevent sawdust from getting in your eyes.\\nYou can work with any kind of wood you want. If you want to be cost-effective, use pine or oak. For an upscale look that's also durable, use maple or walnut.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Saw 3 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to 24 in (61 cm) long.\", \"描述\": \"Use another 8 ft (2.4 m) board, and cut the 3 shorter pieces with a miter saw or hand saw. Make sure the edges are straight so they lay flush with the other boards.\\nThe size of the table you build can vary depending on how much space you have.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Arrange the boards in a rectangle on the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the boards so the narrow sides are on the ground. Place 2 of the shorter boards between the ends of the longer ones to form corners. Put the third board in the middle to form a support beam.\\nIf you want the corners to look cleaner, cut the ends of each board to a 45-degree angle before putting them together.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Nail the corners of the boards together to secure them.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2 in (5.1 cm) finishing nails on the sides of the 42 in (110 cm) boards. Pound 2 nails through the boards on each end of the shorter pieces to hold them in place. Make sure the corners are flush as you secure the boards.\\nThis forms the apron on the underside of the table so you can easily attach the tabletop and legs.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding a Tabletop\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use a 48 in × 28 in (122 cm × 71 cm) plywood sheet if you want a solid tabletop.\", \"描述\": \"Use a solid piece of plywood that's at least 1 in (2.5 cm) thick. Make sure you use the same type of wood that you used to make the apron for a consistent look. Avoid using chipboard or particle board since it's not as sturdy. Cut the board with a table saw to bring it down to size.\\nVisit your local lumber yard to see what sizes of boards are available and see if they can cut it for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make the surface out of multiple boards for a rustic look.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase 3 1 in × 10 in (2.5 cm × 25.4 cm) boards that are 4 ft (1.2 m) long. Lay one of the boards on the middle of the apron so it's 8 in (20 cm) from each end. Mark where the edges line up with a pencil.\\nYou can use thinner or wider boards depending on how much wood you want to use.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Apply wood glue to the top of the apron.\", \"描述\": \"Take the boards or plywood off the top of the apron. Squeeze a line of wood glue on top of the apron, and spread it evenly across the surface with a foam brush or finger. Wipe off any excess wood glue with the edge of your foam brush.\\nIf you're making a tabletop out of multiple boards, only put wood glue on the apron where you'll put the middle board.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Press the tabletop onto the apron so there's 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) of overhang.\", \"描述\": \"Press the sheet of plywood or the middle board onto the surface and hold it there for 30 seconds to 1 minute. This ensures the glue gets a maximum amount of coverage and will hold better.\\nIf you don't want to hold the wood in place after setting it down, place something heavy on the spots you glued.\\nWork quickly since wood glue can dry within 20 minutes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Nail the tabletop into place to secure it.\", \"描述\": \"Use your 2 in (5.1 cm) finishing nails and your hammer to keep the tabletop in place. Drive the nails in from the top of your table into the apron underneath. Put in 2 nails at each end of the tabletop as well as 2 nails into the middle support of the apron. Make sure the nails are flat against the table's surface.\\nWhen you're making a tabletop from multiple boards, glue and nail down 1 board at a time.\\nLook for any areas of the table bowing away from the apron. If you notice this happening, put in more nails to hold it tight.\\nAlthough wood glue takes 24 hours to set completely, nailing the tabletop to the apron will hold the pieces together so you can keep building.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Legs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Flip the table over so it's upside-down.\", \"描述\": \"Grab the overhang of the table and lift it. Tip the table up and over so the apron faces the ceiling. Gently set the table back down on the ground.\\nAsk a friend to help you if the table is too heavy to lift on your own.\\nDon't slide your hands against the wood grain or else you could get a splinter.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) plywood into 4 17 in (43 cm) long pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Cut down an 8 ft (2.4 m) piece of wood into 4 equal sections using a miter saw or hand saw. Make sure the ends of the pieces are flat so they can stand up without wobbling.\\nIf your wood pieces wobble, use a sander to flatten the ends.\\nAdjust the height of the legs accordingly to how tall you want the table.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pre-drill 4 holes in each corner and leg.\", \"描述\": \"Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of your screws. Set the 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) pieces in each corner so the sides of the legs are against the apron. Make 2 holes 2 in (5.1 cm) from the end of the apron, making sure the drill goes into the leg as well. Repeat the process for the other side of the leg against the apron.\\nStagger the height of the holes so screws won't run into one another.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw 4 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) construction screws from the apron into each leg.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the screws in the holes you drilled and use an electric screwdriver to secure the legs. Tighten the screws until they lay flush with the surface of the wood so they aren't as noticeable.\\nUse darker colored screws on darker wood and light colored screws on light wood to conceal them better.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Sand the legs if they don't lay even.\", \"描述\": \"Flip the table rightside up to see if it wobbles or sits crooked on the floor. If so, use a coarse-grit sandpaper to shorten the longer legs so they're even with the shortest leg.\\nAn electric belt sander will work faster if you have access to one.\\nBe careful not to over sand the legs or else the table may still wobble.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Putting on a Finish\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sand the entire table with a sanding block.\", \"描述\": \"Use a 320-grit sanding block to smooth all the surfaces on your table. Work across the top, sides, legs, and apron so there's no chance of anyone getting a splinter if they run their hand across it. Round the corners of the tabletop if you don't want them to have a sharp edge.\\nUse an electric sander if you want to get your work done faster.\\nWear a face mask and eye protection so sawdust doesn't get in your eyes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Stain the wood\", \"描述\": \"Pick a dark or light stain depending on the rest of the room's design. Dip the bristles of a paintbrush into the stain and let the excess drip off. Work in long back and forth strokes to evenly coat the table. Wipe off excess stain with a dry cloth to get a uniform finish. Let the stain dry for 8 hours before adding a second coat.\\nPut your table on a painter's tarp so you don't spill stain on your floors.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint the wood to make it a solid color.\", \"描述\": \"Put a thin coat of primer on the surface of your table so the paint can bond easier and stay true to its color. Allow the primer to dry for 1-2 hours before putting on any paint. Work in long back and forth strokes along the wood grain to evenly coat the table. Let the paint dry for at least 3-4 hours before applying a second coat.\\nPaint your table a color to match other furniture in your room.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Apply a polyurethane wood finish\", \"描述\": \"Work in a well-ventilated area when applying the finish. Use a paintbrush and work with the grain of the table to seal the wood and prevent moisture from coming in. Let the polyurethane coat dry for an hour or 2 before applying a second coat.\\nPolyurethane finish can be purchased at your local hardware store.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use coasters on your table to help it last longer.\\n\", \"Attach felt to the bottom of the legs if you want the table to slide around without damaging your floors.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wear eye protection when working with power tools or while sanding to avoid getting sawdust in your eyes.\\n\", \"Use caution when working with electric saws.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,279 |
How to Build a Collaborative Team Environment
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1. Set an overall goal for the team to achieve.
Teams are more effective when they know what they’re working toward.
When you get your team together, let every member know exactly what you’re expecting from the end result. That way, everyone stays on the same page and can focus on what needs to be done to complete it fully. Make sure you can explain why what you’re working on is important and why the members should care about it so they feel motivated.
For example, you could pull a team together to develop a new marketing campaign that’s targeted toward teens so you can find new customers.
You may want to determine your overall goal before putting a team together so you can think of a few people who would fit the project really well.
2. Set clear standards and expectations for the group.
Keep everyone in the loop to prevent them from going in different directions.
Try to avoid letting your team members loose without any guidance towards how to complete your overall goal. Instead, thoroughly cover what you expect at the end of the project and some guidelines for your colleagues to follow. Give clear direction about the steps that need to get done, set deadlines for when tasks should be completed, and discuss the work ethic you want from the group.
Some questions you can pose to your team include “How do you envision this project if we do it successfully?” or “What actions can we take to meet our standards?” This helps the group feel more involved right from the start.
It’s okay for you to set some of the expectations yourself without consulting the group. For example, you may set a strict deadline for each of the actions you decide on.
3. Delegate responsibilities based on strengths.
People are more successful doing something they’re proficient in.
Go around to each team member and ask them about which areas they have the most proficiency in. When someone’s skill set lines up with any of the tasks, have them work on it so you can get the best results. Try to break down all of the things you need to do to reach your overall goal and give each team member a good balance of things to do.
For example, if you’re working on an ad campaign, you may have a graphic designer mockup some example advertisements, a writer work on the copy, and a social media manager find the audience and determine what will provide the most engagement.
Look for ways to pair people up in your group so you can get multiple perspectives on a task.
If the people you’re with don’t slot well into any of the tasks you need to complete, try to find the one that they’re most interested in so they feel engaged.
4. Use collaborative online tools.
Many programs let you work on the same files, even if you’re remote.
Look for a project management app to use so everyone can see what tasks need to be done and what’s already been completed. If you need to work on the same things, sign up for a cloud storage service to share files or work on web documents that multiple people can edit simultaneously, like Google Docs. That way, you can all see what you and your other team members should be working on.
Some good project management apps include Microsoft Project, Basecamp, Trello, or Teamwork.
Cloud storage options include Google Drive, Dropbox, OneDrive, and iCloud.
5. Meet regularly to discuss the work you’ve done.
Checking in helps everyone stay on task.
Try to set up a daily huddle where you can discuss what needs to get done for the day and where you left off on your duties. If you can’t meet every day, at least get together once a week to talk about your progress and the next steps to take to reach your goal.
If you’re working as a remote team, hop on a video call so you can still talk face-to-face.
6. Share new information and news openly.
Your team is more likely to open up if they see you do the same thing first.
At least once a day, share any updates or news about what you’re working on so they stay in the know. This could be at an in-person meeting, over a remote video call, or just through a messaging app. Be fully open and honest with your team members, especially if you make a mistake, since it shows your colleagues that it’s safe to open up.
If there is an issue, try to troubleshoot it right away so team members recognize that it’s okay to make a mistake and you’ll be able to work through it.
7. Let team members share their thoughts.
Your team will appreciate feeling heard and offering their opinions.
Open the discussion up to everyone on your team and ask them if they have any recommendations or concerns. As someone is speaking, give them your full attention and avoid cutting them off. Use the topic they mentioned as a jumping-off point for the next part of the conversation.
Be open and receptive to everyone’s suggestions, or else your team won’t feel like they can speak their mind. If someone hasn’t had a chance to say something, ask them for their input.
Give each team member the same amount of time to speak to make sure everyone feels heard. If you only have time for a short meeting, set a strict time limit for each person so everyone has a chance to chime in.
Give your team the opportunity to approach you outside of meetings too so they can talk to you whenever they feel the need to.
8. Ask questions to get clarifications.
Show you’re interested in what your team has to say by following up.
If you’re having trouble understanding someone’s point, try to delve deeper into what they’re thinking so they can explain it better. Keep asking questions until you fully grasp what the person is saying so you can consider it for the project.
Pose questions like, “Can you help me understand your thinking behind this?” or “How does this relate to your other concerns?” Both of these questions are non-aggressive and only help you get more clarity.
Try your best to avoid judging someone for what they’ve said. You never know if it’s a good idea until you talk it out or try it.
9. Work on giving constructive criticism.
Positive reinforcement works better than saying what’s wrong.
Rather than telling someone they had a bad idea, say something positive before expressing your concerns. If it’s something you really disagree with, frame your thoughts as your personal opinion rather than an attack on the person so it doesn’t come across as negatively.
For example, you could say, “I love the color choices that you made for this ad, but I wonder if we can explore other layouts to really make them stand out more.”
You could also say something like, “Here’s what I believe about the subject,” before stating your opinion.
10. Split your focus between team relationships and the goal.
Stay aware of deadlines, but don’t forget about your team’s needs.
It can be really easy to have a one-track mind as you try to complete your goal, but try to balance your attention. Keep open communication so you can bond and feel comfortable discussing issues that come up. If your team needs a break, look for ways to ease their workload, such as delegating part of their task to someone else or taking over a portion of it. However, always keep the task at hand on your mind to make sure you’re still making progress toward the end goal you want to achieve.
11. Remain open to new suggestions and ideas.
Show that you’re willing to make changes so your team feels heard.
Even though your team has a set goal, listen to what the other members have to say. Allow them to bounce ideas around and consider everything they say if it helps out with the project. Explore all the options you can so your team feels heard, and incorporate their thoughts into the final result.
You don’t have to use every idea that someone comes up with, but you should at least discuss it to see if it would be beneficial.
Avoid shooting down recommendations right away. Instead, ask for further explanation if you’re confused.
12. Follow through with promises and requests.
Let your team know you’re reliable by doing what you say you will.
Whenever you say you’re going to do something, complete it in a timely manner. Stick to your own deadlines and put in your best effort so your team knows they can rely on you. If one of your team members asks you to do something or make a change, do your best to help them out so they feel like you’re listening to them.
For example, if someone asks to work more on the creative side of a project, look for tasks that you can substitute into their workload.
13. Model the behavior you want to see.
Your team will learn how to act by your example.
Follow the exact same expectations you have for the rest of your team to help them get more involved. Make sure you open up to them with ideas, ask how you can help, and put in the work you say you’re going to do so your team can rely on you. Since your team’s looking up to you, they’re more likely to mimic what they see you doing.
For example, if your teammates see you aren’t engaged when someone else is talking, they may think it’s okay to ignore someone’s ideas too. Instead, give people your full attention so they know you’re listening.
14. Maintain a positive mindset.
Positivity boosts your team’s mood and makes you more approachable.
When you’re in a good mood, your team will feel a lot more comfortable coming to you with issues or ideas. Flash your smile regularly and avoid complaining about things while you’re at work. You can also take a moment to thank your colleagues for their hard work, and help them out when they need it so positivity spreads throughout your workplace.
When a teammate is enthusiastic about something, get excited with them.
15. Mentor your team members to help them improve.
Pass on your knowledge to help pay it forward.
As you’re working with your colleagues, give them helpful advice that you wish you would have known in their position. Integrate coaching and mentoring into your everyday activities by offering advice, connecting your teammates with other people you work with, and training them in new, applicable skills.
Mentoring can help your team feel involved and make them more eager to work every day.
You can also encourage more experienced team members to mentor newer team members by having them work together on a task.
16. Socialize with the team in your free time.
Build a deeper connection by having fun with one another.
Plan a time where you can get together and casually hang out with your team outside of the workplace. Plan a lunch, a company picnic, or a work party so you can bond with the other members of your team. Talk about your interests outside of work and get to know each other better so you feel more tight-knit and open to discussion.
17. Celebrate the team’s hard work.
Recognize your team’s efforts so they feel appreciated.
Give them credit for everything they completed and tell them why they were important in making your goal successful. Share the information with the rest of the team and company so others can celebrate with them.
For example, you could send out an email or distribute a newsletter showcasing the work someone put in and letting them know how much you appreciate it.
18. Avoid micromanaging.
Micromanaging prevents your team from putting their ideas out there.
It’s really easy to have a specific vision of how to reach your goal, but be flexible and let your colleagues do the work themselves. Do your best to avoid questioning someone’s abilities or telling them how to do their own work. Trust that your teammates will be responsible and work toward the goals you set at the beginning.
It’s still okay to ask questions and give constructive criticism, but don’t try to take control of the entire project on your own.
Tips
Pay attention to everyone’s body language and tone while they’re talking so you’re more clued in with how they’re feeling.[21]
X
Research source
If you’re required to work with a large team, try breaking it down into smaller groups of 4 or 5 based on goals and tasks that need to get done.[22]
X
Research source
Diversify your team members to get different perspectives. Try to find people that have different nationalities, ages, and education levels so they can offer another point of view on the work you’re doing.[23]
X
Trustworthy Source
Nature
Respected Multidisciplinary Scientific Journal
Go to source
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Set an overall goal for the team to achieve.\\nTeams are more effective when they know what they’re working toward.\\nWhen you get your team together, let every member know exactly what you’re expecting from the end result. That way, everyone stays on the same page and can focus on what needs to be done to complete it fully. Make sure you can explain why what you’re working on is important and why the members should care about it so they feel motivated.\\nFor example, you could pull a team together to develop a new marketing campaign that’s targeted toward teens so you can find new customers.\\nYou may want to determine your overall goal before putting a team together so you can think of a few people who would fit the project really well.\\n2. Set clear standards and expectations for the group.\\nKeep everyone in the loop to prevent them from going in different directions.\\nTry to avoid letting your team members loose without any guidance towards how to complete your overall goal. Instead, thoroughly cover what you expect at the end of the project and some guidelines for your colleagues to follow. Give clear direction about the steps that need to get done, set deadlines for when tasks should be completed, and discuss the work ethic you want from the group.\\nSome questions you can pose to your team include “How do you envision this project if we do it successfully?” or “What actions can we take to meet our standards?” This helps the group feel more involved right from the start.\\nIt’s okay for you to set some of the expectations yourself without consulting the group. For example, you may set a strict deadline for each of the actions you decide on.\\n3. Delegate responsibilities based on strengths.\\nPeople are more successful doing something they’re proficient in.\\nGo around to each team member and ask them about which areas they have the most proficiency in. When someone’s skill set lines up with any of the tasks, have them work on it so you can get the best results. Try to break down all of the things you need to do to reach your overall goal and give each team member a good balance of things to do.\\nFor example, if you’re working on an ad campaign, you may have a graphic designer mockup some example advertisements, a writer work on the copy, and a social media manager find the audience and determine what will provide the most engagement.\\nLook for ways to pair people up in your group so you can get multiple perspectives on a task.\\nIf the people you’re with don’t slot well into any of the tasks you need to complete, try to find the one that they’re most interested in so they feel engaged.\\n4. Use collaborative online tools.\\nMany programs let you work on the same files, even if you’re remote.\\nLook for a project management app to use so everyone can see what tasks need to be done and what’s already been completed. If you need to work on the same things, sign up for a cloud storage service to share files or work on web documents that multiple people can edit simultaneously, like Google Docs. That way, you can all see what you and your other team members should be working on.\\nSome good project management apps include Microsoft Project, Basecamp, Trello, or Teamwork.\\nCloud storage options include Google Drive, Dropbox, OneDrive, and iCloud.\\n5. Meet regularly to discuss the work you’ve done.\\nChecking in helps everyone stay on task.\\nTry to set up a daily huddle where you can discuss what needs to get done for the day and where you left off on your duties. If you can’t meet every day, at least get together once a week to talk about your progress and the next steps to take to reach your goal.\\nIf you’re working as a remote team, hop on a video call so you can still talk face-to-face.\\n6. Share new information and news openly.\\nYour team is more likely to open up if they see you do the same thing first.\\nAt least once a day, share any updates or news about what you’re working on so they stay in the know. This could be at an in-person meeting, over a remote video call, or just through a messaging app. Be fully open and honest with your team members, especially if you make a mistake, since it shows your colleagues that it’s safe to open up.\\nIf there is an issue, try to troubleshoot it right away so team members recognize that it’s okay to make a mistake and you’ll be able to work through it.\\n7. Let team members share their thoughts.\\nYour team will appreciate feeling heard and offering their opinions.\\nOpen the discussion up to everyone on your team and ask them if they have any recommendations or concerns. As someone is speaking, give them your full attention and avoid cutting them off. Use the topic they mentioned as a jumping-off point for the next part of the conversation.\\nBe open and receptive to everyone’s suggestions, or else your team won’t feel like they can speak their mind. If someone hasn’t had a chance to say something, ask them for their input.\\nGive each team member the same amount of time to speak to make sure everyone feels heard. If you only have time for a short meeting, set a strict time limit for each person so everyone has a chance to chime in.\\nGive your team the opportunity to approach you outside of meetings too so they can talk to you whenever they feel the need to.\\n8. Ask questions to get clarifications.\\nShow you’re interested in what your team has to say by following up.\\nIf you’re having trouble understanding someone’s point, try to delve deeper into what they’re thinking so they can explain it better. Keep asking questions until you fully grasp what the person is saying so you can consider it for the project.\\nPose questions like, “Can you help me understand your thinking behind this?” or “How does this relate to your other concerns?” Both of these questions are non-aggressive and only help you get more clarity.\\nTry your best to avoid judging someone for what they’ve said. You never know if it’s a good idea until you talk it out or try it.\\n9. Work on giving constructive criticism.\\nPositive reinforcement works better than saying what’s wrong.\\nRather than telling someone they had a bad idea, say something positive before expressing your concerns. If it’s something you really disagree with, frame your thoughts as your personal opinion rather than an attack on the person so it doesn’t come across as negatively.\\nFor example, you could say, “I love the color choices that you made for this ad, but I wonder if we can explore other layouts to really make them stand out more.”\\nYou could also say something like, “Here’s what I believe about the subject,” before stating your opinion.\\n10. Split your focus between team relationships and the goal.\\nStay aware of deadlines, but don’t forget about your team’s needs.\\nIt can be really easy to have a one-track mind as you try to complete your goal, but try to balance your attention. Keep open communication so you can bond and feel comfortable discussing issues that come up. If your team needs a break, look for ways to ease their workload, such as delegating part of their task to someone else or taking over a portion of it. However, always keep the task at hand on your mind to make sure you’re still making progress toward the end goal you want to achieve.\\n11. Remain open to new suggestions and ideas.\\nShow that you’re willing to make changes so your team feels heard.\\nEven though your team has a set goal, listen to what the other members have to say. Allow them to bounce ideas around and consider everything they say if it helps out with the project. Explore all the options you can so your team feels heard, and incorporate their thoughts into the final result.\\nYou don’t have to use every idea that someone comes up with, but you should at least discuss it to see if it would be beneficial.\\nAvoid shooting down recommendations right away. Instead, ask for further explanation if you’re confused.\\n12. Follow through with promises and requests.\\nLet your team know you’re reliable by doing what you say you will.\\nWhenever you say you’re going to do something, complete it in a timely manner. Stick to your own deadlines and put in your best effort so your team knows they can rely on you. If one of your team members asks you to do something or make a change, do your best to help them out so they feel like you’re listening to them.\\nFor example, if someone asks to work more on the creative side of a project, look for tasks that you can substitute into their workload.\\n13. Model the behavior you want to see.\\nYour team will learn how to act by your example.\\nFollow the exact same expectations you have for the rest of your team to help them get more involved. Make sure you open up to them with ideas, ask how you can help, and put in the work you say you’re going to do so your team can rely on you. Since your team’s looking up to you, they’re more likely to mimic what they see you doing.\\nFor example, if your teammates see you aren’t engaged when someone else is talking, they may think it’s okay to ignore someone’s ideas too. Instead, give people your full attention so they know you’re listening.\\n14. Maintain a positive mindset.\\nPositivity boosts your team’s mood and makes you more approachable.\\nWhen you’re in a good mood, your team will feel a lot more comfortable coming to you with issues or ideas. Flash your smile regularly and avoid complaining about things while you’re at work. You can also take a moment to thank your colleagues for their hard work, and help them out when they need it so positivity spreads throughout your workplace.\\nWhen a teammate is enthusiastic about something, get excited with them.\\n15. Mentor your team members to help them improve.\\nPass on your knowledge to help pay it forward.\\nAs you’re working with your colleagues, give them helpful advice that you wish you would have known in their position. Integrate coaching and mentoring into your everyday activities by offering advice, connecting your teammates with other people you work with, and training them in new, applicable skills.\\nMentoring can help your team feel involved and make them more eager to work every day.\\nYou can also encourage more experienced team members to mentor newer team members by having them work together on a task.\\n16. Socialize with the team in your free time.\\nBuild a deeper connection by having fun with one another.\\nPlan a time where you can get together and casually hang out with your team outside of the workplace. Plan a lunch, a company picnic, or a work party so you can bond with the other members of your team. Talk about your interests outside of work and get to know each other better so you feel more tight-knit and open to discussion.\\n17. Celebrate the team’s hard work.\\nRecognize your team’s efforts so they feel appreciated.\\nGive them credit for everything they completed and tell them why they were important in making your goal successful. Share the information with the rest of the team and company so others can celebrate with them.\\nFor example, you could send out an email or distribute a newsletter showcasing the work someone put in and letting them know how much you appreciate it.\\n18. Avoid micromanaging.\\nMicromanaging prevents your team from putting their ideas out there.\\nIt’s really easy to have a specific vision of how to reach your goal, but be flexible and let your colleagues do the work themselves. Do your best to avoid questioning someone’s abilities or telling them how to do their own work. Trust that your teammates will be responsible and work toward the goals you set at the beginning.\\nIt’s still okay to ask questions and give constructive criticism, but don’t try to take control of the entire project on your own.\\nTips\\nPay attention to everyone’s body language and tone while they’re talking so you’re more clued in with how they’re feeling.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nIf you’re required to work with a large team, try breaking it down into smaller groups of 4 or 5 based on goals and tasks that need to get done.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nDiversify your team members to get different perspectives. Try to find people that have different nationalities, ages, and education levels so they can offer another point of view on the work you’re doing.[23]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nNature\\nRespected Multidisciplinary Scientific Journal\\nGo to source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Doesn’t it feel great when you can work together easily with your colleagues on a project? Developing an open and trusting team may take a little while to get used to, but it’ll make any project you work on a lot easier to manage. If you want a more open and engaged team, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know, from setting goals to managing multiple people for the most productivity!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set an overall goal for the team to achieve.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Teams are more effective when they know what they’re working toward.\", \"描述\": \"When you get your team together, let every member know exactly what you’re expecting from the end result. That way, everyone stays on the same page and can focus on what needs to be done to complete it fully. Make sure you can explain why what you’re working on is important and why the members should care about it so they feel motivated.\\nFor example, you could pull a team together to develop a new marketing campaign that’s targeted toward teens so you can find new customers.\\nYou may want to determine your overall goal before putting a team together so you can think of a few people who would fit the project really well.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set clear standards and expectations for the group.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep everyone in the loop to prevent them from going in different directions.\", \"描述\": \"Try to avoid letting your team members loose without any guidance towards how to complete your overall goal. Instead, thoroughly cover what you expect at the end of the project and some guidelines for your colleagues to follow. Give clear direction about the steps that need to get done, set deadlines for when tasks should be completed, and discuss the work ethic you want from the group.\\nSome questions you can pose to your team include “How do you envision this project if we do it successfully?” or “What actions can we take to meet our standards?” This helps the group feel more involved right from the start.\\nIt’s okay for you to set some of the expectations yourself without consulting the group. For example, you may set a strict deadline for each of the actions you decide on.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Delegate responsibilities based on strengths.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"People are more successful doing something they’re proficient in.\", \"描述\": \"Go around to each team member and ask them about which areas they have the most proficiency in. When someone’s skill set lines up with any of the tasks, have them work on it so you can get the best results. Try to break down all of the things you need to do to reach your overall goal and give each team member a good balance of things to do.\\nFor example, if you’re working on an ad campaign, you may have a graphic designer mockup some example advertisements, a writer work on the copy, and a social media manager find the audience and determine what will provide the most engagement.\\nLook for ways to pair people up in your group so you can get multiple perspectives on a task.\\nIf the people you’re with don’t slot well into any of the tasks you need to complete, try to find the one that they’re most interested in so they feel engaged.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use collaborative online tools.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Many programs let you work on the same files, even if you’re remote.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a project management app to use so everyone can see what tasks need to be done and what’s already been completed. If you need to work on the same things, sign up for a cloud storage service to share files or work on web documents that multiple people can edit simultaneously, like Google Docs. That way, you can all see what you and your other team members should be working on.\\nSome good project management apps include Microsoft Project, Basecamp, Trello, or Teamwork.\\nCloud storage options include Google Drive, Dropbox, OneDrive, and iCloud.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Meet regularly to discuss the work you’ve done.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Checking in helps everyone stay on task.\", \"描述\": \"Try to set up a daily huddle where you can discuss what needs to get done for the day and where you left off on your duties. If you can’t meet every day, at least get together once a week to talk about your progress and the next steps to take to reach your goal.\\nIf you’re working as a remote team, hop on a video call so you can still talk face-to-face.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Share new information and news openly.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Your team is more likely to open up if they see you do the same thing first.\", \"描述\": \"At least once a day, share any updates or news about what you’re working on so they stay in the know. This could be at an in-person meeting, over a remote video call, or just through a messaging app. Be fully open and honest with your team members, especially if you make a mistake, since it shows your colleagues that it’s safe to open up.\\nIf there is an issue, try to troubleshoot it right away so team members recognize that it’s okay to make a mistake and you’ll be able to work through it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Let team members share their thoughts.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Your team will appreciate feeling heard and offering their opinions.\", \"描述\": \"Open the discussion up to everyone on your team and ask them if they have any recommendations or concerns. As someone is speaking, give them your full attention and avoid cutting them off. Use the topic they mentioned as a jumping-off point for the next part of the conversation.\\nBe open and receptive to everyone’s suggestions, or else your team won’t feel like they can speak their mind. If someone hasn’t had a chance to say something, ask them for their input.\\nGive each team member the same amount of time to speak to make sure everyone feels heard. If you only have time for a short meeting, set a strict time limit for each person so everyone has a chance to chime in.\\nGive your team the opportunity to approach you outside of meetings too so they can talk to you whenever they feel the need to.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Ask questions to get clarifications.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Show you’re interested in what your team has to say by following up.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re having trouble understanding someone’s point, try to delve deeper into what they’re thinking so they can explain it better. Keep asking questions until you fully grasp what the person is saying so you can consider it for the project.\\nPose questions like, “Can you help me understand your thinking behind this?” or “How does this relate to your other concerns?” Both of these questions are non-aggressive and only help you get more clarity.\\nTry your best to avoid judging someone for what they’ve said. You never know if it’s a good idea until you talk it out or try it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Work on giving constructive criticism.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Positive reinforcement works better than saying what’s wrong.\", \"描述\": \"Rather than telling someone they had a bad idea, say something positive before expressing your concerns. If it’s something you really disagree with, frame your thoughts as your personal opinion rather than an attack on the person so it doesn’t come across as negatively.\\nFor example, you could say, “I love the color choices that you made for this ad, but I wonder if we can explore other layouts to really make them stand out more.”\\nYou could also say something like, “Here’s what I believe about the subject,” before stating your opinion.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Split your focus between team relationships and the goal.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Stay aware of deadlines, but don’t forget about your team’s needs.\", \"描述\": \"It can be really easy to have a one-track mind as you try to complete your goal, but try to balance your attention. Keep open communication so you can bond and feel comfortable discussing issues that come up. If your team needs a break, look for ways to ease their workload, such as delegating part of their task to someone else or taking over a portion of it. However, always keep the task at hand on your mind to make sure you’re still making progress toward the end goal you want to achieve.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Remain open to new suggestions and ideas.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Show that you’re willing to make changes so your team feels heard.\", \"描述\": \"Even though your team has a set goal, listen to what the other members have to say. Allow them to bounce ideas around and consider everything they say if it helps out with the project. Explore all the options you can so your team feels heard, and incorporate their thoughts into the final result.\\nYou don’t have to use every idea that someone comes up with, but you should at least discuss it to see if it would be beneficial.\\nAvoid shooting down recommendations right away. Instead, ask for further explanation if you’re confused.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Follow through with promises and requests.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Let your team know you’re reliable by doing what you say you will.\", \"描述\": \"Whenever you say you’re going to do something, complete it in a timely manner. Stick to your own deadlines and put in your best effort so your team knows they can rely on you. If one of your team members asks you to do something or make a change, do your best to help them out so they feel like you’re listening to them.\\nFor example, if someone asks to work more on the creative side of a project, look for tasks that you can substitute into their workload.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Model the behavior you want to see.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Your team will learn how to act by your example.\", \"描述\": \"Follow the exact same expectations you have for the rest of your team to help them get more involved. Make sure you open up to them with ideas, ask how you can help, and put in the work you say you’re going to do so your team can rely on you. Since your team’s looking up to you, they’re more likely to mimic what they see you doing.\\nFor example, if your teammates see you aren’t engaged when someone else is talking, they may think it’s okay to ignore someone’s ideas too. Instead, give people your full attention so they know you’re listening.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Maintain a positive mindset.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Positivity boosts your team’s mood and makes you more approachable.\", \"描述\": \"When you’re in a good mood, your team will feel a lot more comfortable coming to you with issues or ideas. Flash your smile regularly and avoid complaining about things while you’re at work. You can also take a moment to thank your colleagues for their hard work, and help them out when they need it so positivity spreads throughout your workplace.\\nWhen a teammate is enthusiastic about something, get excited with them.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Mentor your team members to help them improve.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pass on your knowledge to help pay it forward.\", \"描述\": \"As you’re working with your colleagues, give them helpful advice that you wish you would have known in their position. Integrate coaching and mentoring into your everyday activities by offering advice, connecting your teammates with other people you work with, and training them in new, applicable skills.\\nMentoring can help your team feel involved and make them more eager to work every day.\\nYou can also encourage more experienced team members to mentor newer team members by having them work together on a task.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Socialize with the team in your free time.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a deeper connection by having fun with one another.\", \"描述\": \"Plan a time where you can get together and casually hang out with your team outside of the workplace. Plan a lunch, a company picnic, or a work party so you can bond with the other members of your team. Talk about your interests outside of work and get to know each other better so you feel more tight-knit and open to discussion.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Celebrate the team’s hard work.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Recognize your team’s efforts so they feel appreciated.\", \"描述\": \"Give them credit for everything they completed and tell them why they were important in making your goal successful. Share the information with the rest of the team and company so others can celebrate with them.\\nFor example, you could send out an email or distribute a newsletter showcasing the work someone put in and letting them know how much you appreciate it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Avoid micromanaging.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Micromanaging prevents your team from putting their ideas out there.\", \"描述\": \"It’s really easy to have a specific vision of how to reach your goal, but be flexible and let your colleagues do the work themselves. Do your best to avoid questioning someone’s abilities or telling them how to do their own work. Trust that your teammates will be responsible and work toward the goals you set at the beginning.\\nIt’s still okay to ask questions and give constructive criticism, but don’t try to take control of the entire project on your own.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Pay attention to everyone’s body language and tone while they’re talking so you’re more clued in with how they’re feeling.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"If you’re required to work with a large team, try breaking it down into smaller groups of 4 or 5 based on goals and tasks that need to get done.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Diversify your team members to get different perspectives. Try to find people that have different nationalities, ages, and education levels so they can offer another point of view on the work you’re doing.[23]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nNature\\nRespected Multidisciplinary Scientific Journal\\nGo to source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,280 |
How to Build a Competitive Pokémon Team on a Pokémon Battling Simulator
|
1. Steps
1-1. Choose the tier you want to build a team in.
Tiers are determined in general by Smogon and can be viewed on their site. More information about the tiers and the tier system can also be found under policy review on their forums.
1-2. Choose whether or not to run weather.
Weather may be more viable in some tiers than others, and some weathers may be more viable in some tiers than in others. Running weather gives a team certain advantages and disadvantages. First, it allows a team to take advantage of many Pokémon's abilities (such as Toxicroak's Dry Skin or Landorus' Sand Force) and overpower another team that cannot do this. Furthermore, Hail and Sandstorm can take advantage of the attrition that those weathers bring to non-ice or non-Ground, Rock, and Steel-types respectively, while Rain and Sun can take advantage of the fact that they boost water-type moves and weaken fire-type moves or vice versa, respectively. If weather is chosen, an appropriate weather starter should be the first member of the team. This Pokémon will be able to create unending weather through an ability that activates each time that Pokémon switches in. The weather inducers are: Politoed and Pelipper for rain, Tyranitar, Hippowdon, Hippopotas, and Gigalith for sandstorm, Ninetales and Torkoal for sun, and Abomasnow, Alolan Ninetales, and Snover for hail.
1-3. Choose team goal and strategy.
This is a crucial part of team building and never should be overlooked. Will the built team seek to win by overpowering the opponent for the win, out-stalling the opposition with moves such as Toxic and "walls" that cannot be touched, or a mixture of both? These team strategies are called Offense, Stall, and Balanced. Within these three overarching strategies are more specific strategies, such as Bulky Offense (an offensive team that also packs Pokémon with high defenses to give the team some endurance), Hyper Offense (an offensive team that solely focuses on taking down the opponent's Pokémon as fast as possible), or Rain Stall (a Rain team that takes advantage of the fact that water-types typically have high HP and defenses to out-stall the opponent). There are many more strategies that can be played -- for more information see the Dragonspiral Tower section of the Smogon site or the Rate My Team forum, also of Smogon.
1-4. Based on the above, pick roles for your team.
Depending on what you have decided so far, you should have a general idea of what your team is trying to achieve and a rough outline of what kinds of Pokémon to have on your team. This is where you finalize this. A standard balanced team will have a special sweeper, a physical sweeper, a special wall, a physical wall, a lead, and a support Pokémon. However, your team may be different. If you are running weather, replace the generic lead with a weather inducer. If you are running Offense, you might want to replace the wall(s) and/or supporter with (a) sweeper(s). If you want to run a Stall team, you might want to increase the number of walls or supporters on your team. If you are running a weather team, you want to make sure that many of your Pokémon benefit from the weather you are creating.
1-5. Choose possible Pokémon.
Up until now, we have carefully avoided the topic of choosing Pokémon to eliminate all bias. The first place to start choosing Pokémon is a list of all the Pokémon in the tier that you are attempting to build a team in. Read analyses of these Pokémon (even just the overview section) on Smogon. This will give you an idea of what each Pokémon does on a team. For each role that you aim to have on your final team, choose three (or more) Pokémon from that tier that might fit in that role. Rank them from 1-3 (or higher) based on how well you think they will do.
1-6. Look for team synergy.
You now have plenty of options for Pokémon. What you now want to do is actually choose which of those three Pokémon you are going to use for your first draft of the team. Look to make sure the Pokémon on your team resist each others' weaknesses and no more than two or three Pokémon on your team share a common weakness. If three Pokémon share a weakness, make sure you have an immunity to that type in your party or a couple of good counters to the common attackers using that type in your tier.
1-7. Look for checks and counters to common Pokémon.
First, let us define a check and a counter. A counter can switch into a Pokémon with little or no risk, and ensure the opposing Pokémon's defeat. A check can sometimes switch into a Pokémon safely, and sometimes ensure it's defeat. In many battles, you will see the same Pokémon over and over again. Make sure none of these Pokémon will be able to set up and run rampant on your team. In fact, if there are still some party slots in which multiple Pokémon could still be chosen, you might want to consider one that counters or checks the most commonly used Pokémon rather than simply provides a little extra team support.
1-8. Choose movesets.
Now that you have finalized what you believe to be the Pokémon you are going to use on your team, look at the Smogon analyses, and choose the moveset that you think will carry out that Pokémon's role most efficiently. Often you can tell which this will be from the name of the set (for example, for a Dragonite Rain Mixed Attacker in OU, choose the Mixed Attacker (Rain) set). If you are new to competitive battling, make sure you don't disregard stat-boosting moves -- they do come in handy.
1-9. Create the first draft of team in the Pokémon Battle Simulator.
Currently, the best simulator for the Fifth Generation is probably Pokémon Online, so this guide will assume that you are using this program. First, open it. Click "Teambuilder." Then click the "Pokémon" tab at the top of the pop-up window. Now you can enter the species of your Pokémon, it's nickname (not necessary), it's moves, it's gender, it's Hidden Power type and IV's, it's EV's, it's nature, and pretty much anything else. In the simulated battling world, it is assumed that you have spent your entire life breeding or soft-resetting for perfect Pokémon (even though you haven't -- this saves you time!), and so you can use almost unrealistic, but NOT HACKED Pokémon.
1-10. Battle with your team.
This guide recommends battling on Smogon's server, as you will encounter the best trainers there who will easily show you through the course of battle where your weaknesses lie. Battle at least 10 separate opponents until the end of the battle (or until it is obvious who will be the victor and the losing side forfeits). Ensure these battles are saved to a folder so you can go back over the logs.
1-11. Review your logs.
Look specifically to see if there are any pertinent weaknesses on your team or any of your Pokémon are failing to carry out a role for a particular reason. Make sure the Pokémon that looked good or looked like they would work together well on paper actually were or did. After reading through each log, rank your Pokémon from 1-6 based on their positive impacts on the battle. Tally up the totals. Pokémon with higher numbers perhaps should have a moveset changed or species changed to help the team more. You can make more than one change between drafts, but it is not advised -- one change can make a huge difference on its own while the second change may muddle results. In this stage, keep to the Smogon analyses; the new player with a new team will not have the experience to create strong sets and EV spreads yet.
1-12. Repeat steps 10 and 11.
Continue to let your team change and make sure you seem to be winning more and more often. If not, perhaps the changes you are making are actually detrimental. Once you seem to be unable to boost your wins higher (this will take a while and many team drafts), you have a couple options available to you. Continue to the next step.
1-13. Fine-tune your Pokémon.
Now you can stray from the Smogon analyses. Is it frustrating that many Conkeldurr just outspeed your Gastrodon? Consider taking some EV's from Attack or Special Attack and moving them to Speed. Would it be more helpful to your team for Starmie to know Psychic instead of Scald? Replace them and see if your winnings are boosted. Besides customizing your Pokémon to be better on your team, you also add a bit of unpredictability to your Pokémon. Some Conkeldurr users will expect to outspeed Gastrodon and you will surprise them. Perhaps some unwitting trainer will switch in Gengar to your Starmie and you will OHKO with Psychic from sheer surprise. Eventually, you will get stuck here too. When you do, move to the next step.
1-14. Post to the Rate My Team Forum on Smogon.
This will allow other Pokémon trainers to view your team and may point out some weaknesses or offer advice to help your team grow and get better. One note of caution -- make sure to put a lot of analysis about each of your Pokémon. People will underrate your team if they think that you have not put a lot of effort into it's creation (which you have, if you have followed this guide). Now you can fine-tune again with the new suggestions and edit your Rate My Team submission. Eventually, your team will peak, and no longer be able to do any better.
1-15. Start over!
Choose a different tier, a different strategy, or different roles. You can still use your old team in tournaments, but it is likely that you have got a bunch of great ideas from the multitude of teams you faced while fighting and want to try them out too. If you are especially pleased with your team, consider creating it (albeit imperfectly) in your game cartridge of Pokémon Black or White.
Tips
Smogon is full of people who know a huge amount about Pokémon. Lurking there is definitely a good idea.
Don't get too attached to any of your Pokémon or even a strategy. You may find your team that you originally intended to be offensive to become more and more stall.
Despite the fact that this guide says only to look at Pokémon in the tier you are building from, there are a few times when a lower-tiered Pokémon may fill a niche in your team that is perfect. Don't be afraid to try these Pokémon too!
Warnings
Don't post on Smogon unless you can back up what you say, and please lurk before you do anything silly!
Don't use gimmicks unless you are looking to lose. Pokémon like Reflect Type Latias may look cool, but eventually you will begin to lose again and again.
Make sure you know your clauses and banlists. Don't cheat by accident -- people will still be angry with you.
Don't let your obsession with your new team overtake your schoolwork so you fall behind.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Choose the tier you want to build a team in.\\nTiers are determined in general by Smogon and can be viewed on their site. More information about the tiers and the tier system can also be found under policy review on their forums.\\n1-2. Choose whether or not to run weather.\\nWeather may be more viable in some tiers than others, and some weathers may be more viable in some tiers than in others. Running weather gives a team certain advantages and disadvantages. First, it allows a team to take advantage of many Pokémon's abilities (such as Toxicroak's Dry Skin or Landorus' Sand Force) and overpower another team that cannot do this. Furthermore, Hail and Sandstorm can take advantage of the attrition that those weathers bring to non-ice or non-Ground, Rock, and Steel-types respectively, while Rain and Sun can take advantage of the fact that they boost water-type moves and weaken fire-type moves or vice versa, respectively. If weather is chosen, an appropriate weather starter should be the first member of the team. This Pokémon will be able to create unending weather through an ability that activates each time that Pokémon switches in. The weather inducers are: Politoed and Pelipper for rain, Tyranitar, Hippowdon, Hippopotas, and Gigalith for sandstorm, Ninetales and Torkoal for sun, and Abomasnow, Alolan Ninetales, and Snover for hail.\\n1-3. Choose team goal and strategy.\\nThis is a crucial part of team building and never should be overlooked. Will the built team seek to win by overpowering the opponent for the win, out-stalling the opposition with moves such as Toxic and \\\"walls\\\" that cannot be touched, or a mixture of both? These team strategies are called Offense, Stall, and Balanced. Within these three overarching strategies are more specific strategies, such as Bulky Offense (an offensive team that also packs Pokémon with high defenses to give the team some endurance), Hyper Offense (an offensive team that solely focuses on taking down the opponent's Pokémon as fast as possible), or Rain Stall (a Rain team that takes advantage of the fact that water-types typically have high HP and defenses to out-stall the opponent). There are many more strategies that can be played -- for more information see the Dragonspiral Tower section of the Smogon site or the Rate My Team forum, also of Smogon.\\n1-4. Based on the above, pick roles for your team.\\nDepending on what you have decided so far, you should have a general idea of what your team is trying to achieve and a rough outline of what kinds of Pokémon to have on your team. This is where you finalize this. A standard balanced team will have a special sweeper, a physical sweeper, a special wall, a physical wall, a lead, and a support Pokémon. However, your team may be different. If you are running weather, replace the generic lead with a weather inducer. If you are running Offense, you might want to replace the wall(s) and/or supporter with (a) sweeper(s). If you want to run a Stall team, you might want to increase the number of walls or supporters on your team. If you are running a weather team, you want to make sure that many of your Pokémon benefit from the weather you are creating.\\n1-5. Choose possible Pokémon.\\nUp until now, we have carefully avoided the topic of choosing Pokémon to eliminate all bias. The first place to start choosing Pokémon is a list of all the Pokémon in the tier that you are attempting to build a team in. Read analyses of these Pokémon (even just the overview section) on Smogon. This will give you an idea of what each Pokémon does on a team. For each role that you aim to have on your final team, choose three (or more) Pokémon from that tier that might fit in that role. Rank them from 1-3 (or higher) based on how well you think they will do.\\n1-6. Look for team synergy.\\nYou now have plenty of options for Pokémon. What you now want to do is actually choose which of those three Pokémon you are going to use for your first draft of the team. Look to make sure the Pokémon on your team resist each others' weaknesses and no more than two or three Pokémon on your team share a common weakness. If three Pokémon share a weakness, make sure you have an immunity to that type in your party or a couple of good counters to the common attackers using that type in your tier.\\n1-7. Look for checks and counters to common Pokémon.\\nFirst, let us define a check and a counter. A counter can switch into a Pokémon with little or no risk, and ensure the opposing Pokémon's defeat. A check can sometimes switch into a Pokémon safely, and sometimes ensure it's defeat. In many battles, you will see the same Pokémon over and over again. Make sure none of these Pokémon will be able to set up and run rampant on your team. In fact, if there are still some party slots in which multiple Pokémon could still be chosen, you might want to consider one that counters or checks the most commonly used Pokémon rather than simply provides a little extra team support.\\n1-8. Choose movesets.\\nNow that you have finalized what you believe to be the Pokémon you are going to use on your team, look at the Smogon analyses, and choose the moveset that you think will carry out that Pokémon's role most efficiently. Often you can tell which this will be from the name of the set (for example, for a Dragonite Rain Mixed Attacker in OU, choose the Mixed Attacker (Rain) set). If you are new to competitive battling, make sure you don't disregard stat-boosting moves -- they do come in handy.\\n1-9. Create the first draft of team in the Pokémon Battle Simulator.\\nCurrently, the best simulator for the Fifth Generation is probably Pokémon Online, so this guide will assume that you are using this program. First, open it. Click \\\"Teambuilder.\\\" Then click the \\\"Pokémon\\\" tab at the top of the pop-up window. Now you can enter the species of your Pokémon, it's nickname (not necessary), it's moves, it's gender, it's Hidden Power type and IV's, it's EV's, it's nature, and pretty much anything else. In the simulated battling world, it is assumed that you have spent your entire life breeding or soft-resetting for perfect Pokémon (even though you haven't -- this saves you time!), and so you can use almost unrealistic, but NOT HACKED Pokémon.\\n1-10. Battle with your team.\\nThis guide recommends battling on Smogon's server, as you will encounter the best trainers there who will easily show you through the course of battle where your weaknesses lie. Battle at least 10 separate opponents until the end of the battle (or until it is obvious who will be the victor and the losing side forfeits). Ensure these battles are saved to a folder so you can go back over the logs.\\n1-11. Review your logs.\\nLook specifically to see if there are any pertinent weaknesses on your team or any of your Pokémon are failing to carry out a role for a particular reason. Make sure the Pokémon that looked good or looked like they would work together well on paper actually were or did. After reading through each log, rank your Pokémon from 1-6 based on their positive impacts on the battle. Tally up the totals. Pokémon with higher numbers perhaps should have a moveset changed or species changed to help the team more. You can make more than one change between drafts, but it is not advised -- one change can make a huge difference on its own while the second change may muddle results. In this stage, keep to the Smogon analyses; the new player with a new team will not have the experience to create strong sets and EV spreads yet.\\n1-12. Repeat steps 10 and 11.\\nContinue to let your team change and make sure you seem to be winning more and more often. If not, perhaps the changes you are making are actually detrimental. Once you seem to be unable to boost your wins higher (this will take a while and many team drafts), you have a couple options available to you. Continue to the next step.\\n1-13. Fine-tune your Pokémon.\\nNow you can stray from the Smogon analyses. Is it frustrating that many Conkeldurr just outspeed your Gastrodon? Consider taking some EV's from Attack or Special Attack and moving them to Speed. Would it be more helpful to your team for Starmie to know Psychic instead of Scald? Replace them and see if your winnings are boosted. Besides customizing your Pokémon to be better on your team, you also add a bit of unpredictability to your Pokémon. Some Conkeldurr users will expect to outspeed Gastrodon and you will surprise them. Perhaps some unwitting trainer will switch in Gengar to your Starmie and you will OHKO with Psychic from sheer surprise. Eventually, you will get stuck here too. When you do, move to the next step.\\n1-14. Post to the Rate My Team Forum on Smogon.\\nThis will allow other Pokémon trainers to view your team and may point out some weaknesses or offer advice to help your team grow and get better. One note of caution -- make sure to put a lot of analysis about each of your Pokémon. People will underrate your team if they think that you have not put a lot of effort into it's creation (which you have, if you have followed this guide). Now you can fine-tune again with the new suggestions and edit your Rate My Team submission. Eventually, your team will peak, and no longer be able to do any better.\\n1-15. Start over!\\nChoose a different tier, a different strategy, or different roles. You can still use your old team in tournaments, but it is likely that you have got a bunch of great ideas from the multitude of teams you faced while fighting and want to try them out too. If you are especially pleased with your team, consider creating it (albeit imperfectly) in your game cartridge of Pokémon Black or White.\\nTips\\nSmogon is full of people who know a huge amount about Pokémon. Lurking there is definitely a good idea.\\nDon't get too attached to any of your Pokémon or even a strategy. You may find your team that you originally intended to be offensive to become more and more stall.\\nDespite the fact that this guide says only to look at Pokémon in the tier you are building from, there are a few times when a lower-tiered Pokémon may fill a niche in your team that is perfect. Don't be afraid to try these Pokémon too!\\nWarnings\\nDon't post on Smogon unless you can back up what you say, and please lurk before you do anything silly!\\nDon't use gimmicks unless you are looking to lose. Pokémon like Reflect Type Latias may look cool, but eventually you will begin to lose again and again.\\nMake sure you know your clauses and banlists. Don't cheat by accident -- people will still be angry with you.\\nDon't let your obsession with your new team overtake your schoolwork so you fall behind.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"For a beginning Pokémon player, it can be surprisingly difficult to build a good Pokémon team. This guide will help teach the basics of team building and offer suggestions to aid the new trainer in creating their first team.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the tier you want to build a team in.\", \"描述\": \"Tiers are determined in general by Smogon and can be viewed on their site. More information about the tiers and the tier system can also be found under policy review on their forums.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose whether or not to run weather.\", \"描述\": \"Weather may be more viable in some tiers than others, and some weathers may be more viable in some tiers than in others. Running weather gives a team certain advantages and disadvantages. First, it allows a team to take advantage of many Pokémon's abilities (such as Toxicroak's Dry Skin or Landorus' Sand Force) and overpower another team that cannot do this. Furthermore, Hail and Sandstorm can take advantage of the attrition that those weathers bring to non-ice or non-Ground, Rock, and Steel-types respectively, while Rain and Sun can take advantage of the fact that they boost water-type moves and weaken fire-type moves or vice versa, respectively. If weather is chosen, an appropriate weather starter should be the first member of the team. This Pokémon will be able to create unending weather through an ability that activates each time that Pokémon switches in. The weather inducers are: Politoed and Pelipper for rain, Tyranitar, Hippowdon, Hippopotas, and Gigalith for sandstorm, Ninetales and Torkoal for sun, and Abomasnow, Alolan Ninetales, and Snover for hail.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose team goal and strategy.\", \"描述\": \"This is a crucial part of team building and never should be overlooked. Will the built team seek to win by overpowering the opponent for the win, out-stalling the opposition with moves such as Toxic and \\\"walls\\\" that cannot be touched, or a mixture of both? These team strategies are called Offense, Stall, and Balanced. Within these three overarching strategies are more specific strategies, such as Bulky Offense (an offensive team that also packs Pokémon with high defenses to give the team some endurance), Hyper Offense (an offensive team that solely focuses on taking down the opponent's Pokémon as fast as possible), or Rain Stall (a Rain team that takes advantage of the fact that water-types typically have high HP and defenses to out-stall the opponent). There are many more strategies that can be played -- for more information see the Dragonspiral Tower section of the Smogon site or the Rate My Team forum, also of Smogon.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Based on the above, pick roles for your team.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on what you have decided so far, you should have a general idea of what your team is trying to achieve and a rough outline of what kinds of Pokémon to have on your team. This is where you finalize this. A standard balanced team will have a special sweeper, a physical sweeper, a special wall, a physical wall, a lead, and a support Pokémon. However, your team may be different. If you are running weather, replace the generic lead with a weather inducer. If you are running Offense, you might want to replace the wall(s) and/or supporter with (a) sweeper(s). If you want to run a Stall team, you might want to increase the number of walls or supporters on your team. If you are running a weather team, you want to make sure that many of your Pokémon benefit from the weather you are creating.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose possible Pokémon.\", \"描述\": \"Up until now, we have carefully avoided the topic of choosing Pokémon to eliminate all bias. The first place to start choosing Pokémon is a list of all the Pokémon in the tier that you are attempting to build a team in. Read analyses of these Pokémon (even just the overview section) on Smogon. This will give you an idea of what each Pokémon does on a team. For each role that you aim to have on your final team, choose three (or more) Pokémon from that tier that might fit in that role. Rank them from 1-3 (or higher) based on how well you think they will do.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Look for team synergy.\", \"描述\": \"You now have plenty of options for Pokémon. What you now want to do is actually choose which of those three Pokémon you are going to use for your first draft of the team. Look to make sure the Pokémon on your team resist each others' weaknesses and no more than two or three Pokémon on your team share a common weakness. If three Pokémon share a weakness, make sure you have an immunity to that type in your party or a couple of good counters to the common attackers using that type in your tier.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Look for checks and counters to common Pokémon.\", \"描述\": \"First, let us define a check and a counter. A counter can switch into a Pokémon with little or no risk, and ensure the opposing Pokémon's defeat. A check can sometimes switch into a Pokémon safely, and sometimes ensure it's defeat. In many battles, you will see the same Pokémon over and over again. Make sure none of these Pokémon will be able to set up and run rampant on your team. In fact, if there are still some party slots in which multiple Pokémon could still be chosen, you might want to consider one that counters or checks the most commonly used Pokémon rather than simply provides a little extra team support.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Choose movesets.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have finalized what you believe to be the Pokémon you are going to use on your team, look at the Smogon analyses, and choose the moveset that you think will carry out that Pokémon's role most efficiently. Often you can tell which this will be from the name of the set (for example, for a Dragonite Rain Mixed Attacker in OU, choose the Mixed Attacker (Rain) set). If you are new to competitive battling, make sure you don't disregard stat-boosting moves -- they do come in handy.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Create the first draft of team in the Pokémon Battle Simulator.\", \"描述\": \"Currently, the best simulator for the Fifth Generation is probably Pokémon Online, so this guide will assume that you are using this program. First, open it. Click \\\"Teambuilder.\\\" Then click the \\\"Pokémon\\\" tab at the top of the pop-up window. Now you can enter the species of your Pokémon, it's nickname (not necessary), it's moves, it's gender, it's Hidden Power type and IV's, it's EV's, it's nature, and pretty much anything else. In the simulated battling world, it is assumed that you have spent your entire life breeding or soft-resetting for perfect Pokémon (even though you haven't -- this saves you time!), and so you can use almost unrealistic, but NOT HACKED Pokémon.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Battle with your team.\", \"描述\": \"This guide recommends battling on Smogon's server, as you will encounter the best trainers there who will easily show you through the course of battle where your weaknesses lie. Battle at least 10 separate opponents until the end of the battle (or until it is obvious who will be the victor and the losing side forfeits). Ensure these battles are saved to a folder so you can go back over the logs.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Review your logs.\", \"描述\": \"Look specifically to see if there are any pertinent weaknesses on your team or any of your Pokémon are failing to carry out a role for a particular reason. Make sure the Pokémon that looked good or looked like they would work together well on paper actually were or did. After reading through each log, rank your Pokémon from 1-6 based on their positive impacts on the battle. Tally up the totals. Pokémon with higher numbers perhaps should have a moveset changed or species changed to help the team more. You can make more than one change between drafts, but it is not advised -- one change can make a huge difference on its own while the second change may muddle results. In this stage, keep to the Smogon analyses; the new player with a new team will not have the experience to create strong sets and EV spreads yet.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Repeat steps 10 and 11.\", \"描述\": \"Continue to let your team change and make sure you seem to be winning more and more often. If not, perhaps the changes you are making are actually detrimental. Once you seem to be unable to boost your wins higher (this will take a while and many team drafts), you have a couple options available to you. Continue to the next step.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Fine-tune your Pokémon.\", \"描述\": \"Now you can stray from the Smogon analyses. Is it frustrating that many Conkeldurr just outspeed your Gastrodon? Consider taking some EV's from Attack or Special Attack and moving them to Speed. Would it be more helpful to your team for Starmie to know Psychic instead of Scald? Replace them and see if your winnings are boosted. Besides customizing your Pokémon to be better on your team, you also add a bit of unpredictability to your Pokémon. Some Conkeldurr users will expect to outspeed Gastrodon and you will surprise them. Perhaps some unwitting trainer will switch in Gengar to your Starmie and you will OHKO with Psychic from sheer surprise. Eventually, you will get stuck here too. When you do, move to the next step.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Post to the Rate My Team Forum on Smogon.\", \"描述\": \"This will allow other Pokémon trainers to view your team and may point out some weaknesses or offer advice to help your team grow and get better. One note of caution -- make sure to put a lot of analysis about each of your Pokémon. People will underrate your team if they think that you have not put a lot of effort into it's creation (which you have, if you have followed this guide). Now you can fine-tune again with the new suggestions and edit your Rate My Team submission. Eventually, your team will peak, and no longer be able to do any better.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Start over!\", \"描述\": \"Choose a different tier, a different strategy, or different roles. You can still use your old team in tournaments, but it is likely that you have got a bunch of great ideas from the multitude of teams you faced while fighting and want to try them out too. If you are especially pleased with your team, consider creating it (albeit imperfectly) in your game cartridge of Pokémon Black or White.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Smogon is full of people who know a huge amount about Pokémon. Lurking there is definitely a good idea.\\n\", \"Don't get too attached to any of your Pokémon or even a strategy. You may find your team that you originally intended to be offensive to become more and more stall.\\n\", \"Despite the fact that this guide says only to look at Pokémon in the tier you are building from, there are a few times when a lower-tiered Pokémon may fill a niche in your team that is perfect. Don't be afraid to try these Pokémon too!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't post on Smogon unless you can back up what you say, and please lurk before you do anything silly!\\n\", \"Don't use gimmicks unless you are looking to lose. Pokémon like Reflect Type Latias may look cool, but eventually you will begin to lose again and again.\\n\", \"Make sure you know your clauses and banlists. Don't cheat by accident -- people will still be angry with you.\\n\", \"Don't let your obsession with your new team overtake your schoolwork so you fall behind.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,281 |
How to Build a Compost Bin
|
1. Building a General-Purpose Compost Bin
1-1. Gather your materials.
For this basic compost bin, you'll want untreated wood. Untreated wood will last for a plenty long time, and the treatment won't interfere with the composting process or overwhelm helpful fauna. Cedar is a great option. You'll need:
Four pieces of 2 x 2s or 4 x9s lumber, cut to 3' lengths. These posts will serve as the four corners to your square compost bin. Opt for rough, unplaned wood.
8-16 pieces of 2 x 6 lumber, again cut to 3' length. These boards will make up the walls of your compost bin. Most compost bins have spaces between the exterior boards for aeration; how big you want your spaces to be will depend on whether you use 8, 12, or 16 pieces of lumber.
9 square foot cover, preferably made of solid wood. A solid cover will help maintain a more consistent internal temperature for your compost bin.
Galvanized nails or coated deck screws.
1-2. Nail one 2 x 6 board across the bottom of two 4 x 4s.
Place the two 4 x 4s on the ground, 3' apart so that the 2 x 6 fits evenly on either end. Measure off one or two inches from the bottom of each 4 x 4 so that the 2 x 6 will be level. Place the 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4s and drive two nails into each 4 x 4.
1-3. Measure the amount of space you want between each 2 x 6 board.
You'll want to continue building the wall by nailing 2 x 6s onto the stakes, but you'll also want a little bit of space between each 2 x 6. How much space you choose is up to you. At any rate, you'll want the space between each board to be the same, or else the bin will look less professional and put-together.
An inch or two is pretty standard. Any gap larger than two inches won't effectively hold in the material and will leave it exposed to small animals, such as raccoons and opossums.
1-4. Having chosen your spacing, nail another 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4 above the previous one.
Continue nailing 2 x 6s into place, factoring in the desired spacing, until you reach the top of the wall. At the end of this step, you'll have two vertical 4 x 4s cross-beamed with three or four perpendicular 2 x 6s. This is 1/4 of your square bin.
1-5. Create another section of the wall in the exact same manner.
Put down two 4 x 4s. Measure off one or two inches for your starting point. Then lay a 2 x 6 board perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s, hammering it into place with four nails. Continue placing, then hammering, 2 x 6s perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s — leaving the proper spacing — until you have wall no. 2 assembled. The two walls should be mirror images of one another.
1-6. Prop up the two walls parallel to one another and connect the back end of the bin with a perpendicular 2 x 6.
As with the previous 2 x 6s, measure off from the bottom, drive in four nails, and space each one evenly. Hammer down 2 x 6s across the back wall of the 4 x 4 until the bin has three walls entirely built.
Make sure to offset the nails you drive into the 2 x 6s so that they don't collide with the nails driven into the 4 x 4s in the previous steps.
1-7. Complete the bin by placing the final boards perpendicularly across the front side.
Hammer three or four 2 x 6s across the front face of the bin, following the same routine and remembering to offset the nails.
For greater ease of use, make the front side removable either by adding hinges to the front boards or grooves for them to slide in and out of. This will make the easier to stir, turn, or remove the compost when needed.
1-8. Cover with a 9 square foot cover.
You can use a tarp or wood for the compost bin, although wood is decidedly better at retaining heat over the long run. If you desire, consider making two small wooden handles and attaching them to either side of your cover for easier placement.
1-9. Consider making one or two more identical bins so that you can have a turning unit.
One bin contains active compost material; another bin contains processed (or processing) compost materials; the final bin contains soil you'll use to cover the active compost bin.
2. Building a Yard-Waste-Only Compost Bin
2-1. Cut out a large rectangle of chicken wire.
This will form the body of your compost bin, which will be a cylinder shape. This bin will be able to compost things like yard waste, sawdust, and leaves. It can only be used outdoors over soil and will compost very slowly.
The height of the rectangle will be the height of your bin.
The length of the rectangle will be the diameter of your bin.
If you're not sure where to begin, hold the uncut chicken wire in front of you to get a sense of how tall and wide you'd like it to be. Since you'll be filling this bin with yard waste, err on the large side.
2-2. Make four stakes out of scrap wood.
These will be staked into the ground to maintain the shape of your wire bin, so be sure that they are longer than the height of your chicken wire.
2-3. Flatten your rectangle of chicken wire onto the ground.
Stretching it out will make it easier to work with.
2-4. Using a staple gun, attach a stake along one of the short edges of your chicken wire.
This works best of you place the stake beneath the wire. The top of the stake should stick out slightly above the top of the wire.
2-5. Roll the other side of the chicken wire up and over so that the unstacked end overlaps the staked end.
Your chicken wire should now be in the shape of a cylinder.
2-6. Staple the edge of your chicken wire along the stake.
It may be necessary to crawl inside the wire to reach the stake better.
2-7. Stake your unfinished bin into the ground.
Make sure you choose a spot that won't get in your way later.
2-8. Drive your other three stakes into the ground around the bin.
Be sure to stake them close enough to the wire that they don't pull it out of shape. When you are done, the four stakes should be in the shape of a square.
2-9. Staple the remaining stakes to the chicken wire.
Once the bin is fully secured, you can start filling it with yard waste.
3. Using Your Compost Bin
3-1. Put anything into your compost bin except the following materials.
All organic matter will eventually decompose if you give it enough time. Grass, garden clippings, leftover fruits and vegetables, and certain animal manure are all fair game for your compost bin. Less advised is throwing meat, bones, and dairy (cheese, etc.) into the compost heap. Animal manure like cow and chicken manure is fine, but try to avoid cat or dog manure.
3-2. Know your greens and browns.
Green compostable materials, which contain essential sources of nitrogen, include grasses, garden clippings, and green leaves. They are mostly moist. Brown compostable materials, which contain carbon-rich materials, include drier materials such as hay, twigs, and shredded cardboard. A mix of two parts green to one part brown is the ideal compost ratio.
You don't have to be exact with your ratios. As long as you don't have an abundance of greens or an abundance of browns, your compost should turn out nutrient-rich and successful.
3-3. Shred your materials up for expedited composting.
If you want to speed up the pace of your compost cycle, make sure to shred your materials before adding them to the bin. Grass clippings, of course, come pre-shredded, but you may want to put your twigs, hay, and other dry matter through the shredder in order to enlarge its surface area. The larger the surface area, the more the small animals and bacteria can process.
3-4. Pay attention to heat and moisture in your compost pile.
In order to get the composting kickstarted, your pile needs to be hot and wet. The two biggest problems a compost system encounters are lack of heat and lack of moisture. These affect the composting process in different ways.
Try to keep the internal heat of your compost bin at 110 °F (43 °C) or higher. Between 110 °F (43 °C) and 140 °F (60 °C) is the ideal temperature for your pile. If your pile dips below 110 °F (43 °C), consider adding more green nitrogen-rich material or more water.
Try to keep the compost pile damp throughout — never soaked and never dry. A moist pile will heat up more efficiently, allowing for better composing in the end.
3-5. Stir your compost with a strong pole or tool, making sure to cover your food scraps with dirt.
A pitchfork is recommended and will work best. Mixing the compost will help breakdown the scraps faster. Mixing sinks the superficial compost to the bottom and brings the bottom-dwelling compost up top. Give your compost a stir every other day, especially if you notice it not getting hot enough.
3-6. Keep the compost cover anchored down with a heavy object in order to discourage looting from animals.
A couple heavy bricks, placed near the center of your compost cover, will effectively keep animals like raccoons and opossums from throwing off the cover and looting your compost for easy pickings.
Tips
Compost can be used as mulch to cover flower beds, as potting soil and sprinkled over your grass as a lawn conditioner. Don't use it all though; save at least 1/3 of your original compost so you can start the process all over again.
For faster decomposition, chop the materials into smaller pieces rather than big pieces. Smaller pieces decompose faster and decomposition time is reduced.
Wait 2 to 3 months to use compost from the general-purpose bin. The yard-waste bin will take longer and be more dependent on weather conditions.
Warnings
Since the chemical reactions that occur during composting produce heat, fresh compost can damage plants. Be sure to cool your compost before adding it to your flower beds.
Fruit flies can become a nuisance with compost bins. If your compost is far enough away from your house you won't have a problem, but if not, just cover the top of you compost with a small scrap of carpet or some plastic with a small rock on top.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a General-Purpose Compost Bin\\n1-1. Gather your materials.\\nFor this basic compost bin, you'll want untreated wood. Untreated wood will last for a plenty long time, and the treatment won't interfere with the composting process or overwhelm helpful fauna. Cedar is a great option. You'll need:\\nFour pieces of 2 x 2s or 4 x9s lumber, cut to 3' lengths. These posts will serve as the four corners to your square compost bin. Opt for rough, unplaned wood.\\n8-16 pieces of 2 x 6 lumber, again cut to 3' length. These boards will make up the walls of your compost bin. Most compost bins have spaces between the exterior boards for aeration; how big you want your spaces to be will depend on whether you use 8, 12, or 16 pieces of lumber.\\n9 square foot cover, preferably made of solid wood. A solid cover will help maintain a more consistent internal temperature for your compost bin.\\nGalvanized nails or coated deck screws.\\n1-2. Nail one 2 x 6 board across the bottom of two 4 x 4s.\\nPlace the two 4 x 4s on the ground, 3' apart so that the 2 x 6 fits evenly on either end. Measure off one or two inches from the bottom of each 4 x 4 so that the 2 x 6 will be level. Place the 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4s and drive two nails into each 4 x 4.\\n1-3. Measure the amount of space you want between each 2 x 6 board.\\nYou'll want to continue building the wall by nailing 2 x 6s onto the stakes, but you'll also want a little bit of space between each 2 x 6. How much space you choose is up to you. At any rate, you'll want the space between each board to be the same, or else the bin will look less professional and put-together.\\nAn inch or two is pretty standard. Any gap larger than two inches won't effectively hold in the material and will leave it exposed to small animals, such as raccoons and opossums.\\n1-4. Having chosen your spacing, nail another 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4 above the previous one.\\nContinue nailing 2 x 6s into place, factoring in the desired spacing, until you reach the top of the wall. At the end of this step, you'll have two vertical 4 x 4s cross-beamed with three or four perpendicular 2 x 6s. This is 1/4 of your square bin.\\n1-5. Create another section of the wall in the exact same manner.\\nPut down two 4 x 4s. Measure off one or two inches for your starting point. Then lay a 2 x 6 board perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s, hammering it into place with four nails. Continue placing, then hammering, 2 x 6s perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s — leaving the proper spacing — until you have wall no. 2 assembled. The two walls should be mirror images of one another.\\n1-6. Prop up the two walls parallel to one another and connect the back end of the bin with a perpendicular 2 x 6.\\nAs with the previous 2 x 6s, measure off from the bottom, drive in four nails, and space each one evenly. Hammer down 2 x 6s across the back wall of the 4 x 4 until the bin has three walls entirely built.\\nMake sure to offset the nails you drive into the 2 x 6s so that they don't collide with the nails driven into the 4 x 4s in the previous steps.\\n1-7. Complete the bin by placing the final boards perpendicularly across the front side.\\nHammer three or four 2 x 6s across the front face of the bin, following the same routine and remembering to offset the nails.\\nFor greater ease of use, make the front side removable either by adding hinges to the front boards or grooves for them to slide in and out of. This will make the easier to stir, turn, or remove the compost when needed.\\n1-8. Cover with a 9 square foot cover.\\nYou can use a tarp or wood for the compost bin, although wood is decidedly better at retaining heat over the long run. If you desire, consider making two small wooden handles and attaching them to either side of your cover for easier placement.\\n1-9. Consider making one or two more identical bins so that you can have a turning unit.\\nOne bin contains active compost material; another bin contains processed (or processing) compost materials; the final bin contains soil you'll use to cover the active compost bin.\\n2. Building a Yard-Waste-Only Compost Bin\\n2-1. Cut out a large rectangle of chicken wire.\\nThis will form the body of your compost bin, which will be a cylinder shape. This bin will be able to compost things like yard waste, sawdust, and leaves. It can only be used outdoors over soil and will compost very slowly. \\nThe height of the rectangle will be the height of your bin.\\nThe length of the rectangle will be the diameter of your bin.\\nIf you're not sure where to begin, hold the uncut chicken wire in front of you to get a sense of how tall and wide you'd like it to be. Since you'll be filling this bin with yard waste, err on the large side.\\n2-2. Make four stakes out of scrap wood.\\nThese will be staked into the ground to maintain the shape of your wire bin, so be sure that they are longer than the height of your chicken wire.\\n2-3. Flatten your rectangle of chicken wire onto the ground.\\nStretching it out will make it easier to work with.\\n2-4. Using a staple gun, attach a stake along one of the short edges of your chicken wire.\\nThis works best of you place the stake beneath the wire. The top of the stake should stick out slightly above the top of the wire.\\n2-5. Roll the other side of the chicken wire up and over so that the unstacked end overlaps the staked end.\\nYour chicken wire should now be in the shape of a cylinder.\\n2-6. Staple the edge of your chicken wire along the stake.\\nIt may be necessary to crawl inside the wire to reach the stake better.\\n2-7. Stake your unfinished bin into the ground.\\nMake sure you choose a spot that won't get in your way later.\\n2-8. Drive your other three stakes into the ground around the bin.\\nBe sure to stake them close enough to the wire that they don't pull it out of shape. When you are done, the four stakes should be in the shape of a square.\\n2-9. Staple the remaining stakes to the chicken wire.\\nOnce the bin is fully secured, you can start filling it with yard waste.\\n3. Using Your Compost Bin\\n3-1. Put anything into your compost bin except the following materials.\\nAll organic matter will eventually decompose if you give it enough time. Grass, garden clippings, leftover fruits and vegetables, and certain animal manure are all fair game for your compost bin. Less advised is throwing meat, bones, and dairy (cheese, etc.) into the compost heap. Animal manure like cow and chicken manure is fine, but try to avoid cat or dog manure.\\n3-2. Know your greens and browns.\\nGreen compostable materials, which contain essential sources of nitrogen, include grasses, garden clippings, and green leaves. They are mostly moist. Brown compostable materials, which contain carbon-rich materials, include drier materials such as hay, twigs, and shredded cardboard. A mix of two parts green to one part brown is the ideal compost ratio.\\nYou don't have to be exact with your ratios. As long as you don't have an abundance of greens or an abundance of browns, your compost should turn out nutrient-rich and successful.\\n3-3. Shred your materials up for expedited composting.\\nIf you want to speed up the pace of your compost cycle, make sure to shred your materials before adding them to the bin. Grass clippings, of course, come pre-shredded, but you may want to put your twigs, hay, and other dry matter through the shredder in order to enlarge its surface area. The larger the surface area, the more the small animals and bacteria can process.\\n3-4. Pay attention to heat and moisture in your compost pile.\\nIn order to get the composting kickstarted, your pile needs to be hot and wet. The two biggest problems a compost system encounters are lack of heat and lack of moisture. These affect the composting process in different ways.\\nTry to keep the internal heat of your compost bin at 110 °F (43 °C) or higher. Between 110 °F (43 °C) and 140 °F (60 °C) is the ideal temperature for your pile. If your pile dips below 110 °F (43 °C), consider adding more green nitrogen-rich material or more water.\\nTry to keep the compost pile damp throughout — never soaked and never dry. A moist pile will heat up more efficiently, allowing for better composing in the end.\\n3-5. Stir your compost with a strong pole or tool, making sure to cover your food scraps with dirt.\\nA pitchfork is recommended and will work best. Mixing the compost will help breakdown the scraps faster. Mixing sinks the superficial compost to the bottom and brings the bottom-dwelling compost up top. Give your compost a stir every other day, especially if you notice it not getting hot enough.\\n3-6. Keep the compost cover anchored down with a heavy object in order to discourage looting from animals.\\nA couple heavy bricks, placed near the center of your compost cover, will effectively keep animals like raccoons and opossums from throwing off the cover and looting your compost for easy pickings.\\nTips\\nCompost can be used as mulch to cover flower beds, as potting soil and sprinkled over your grass as a lawn conditioner. Don't use it all though; save at least 1/3 of your original compost so you can start the process all over again.\\nFor faster decomposition, chop the materials into smaller pieces rather than big pieces. Smaller pieces decompose faster and decomposition time is reduced.\\nWait 2 to 3 months to use compost from the general-purpose bin. The yard-waste bin will take longer and be more dependent on weather conditions.\\nWarnings\\nSince the chemical reactions that occur during composting produce heat, fresh compost can damage plants. Be sure to cool your compost before adding it to your flower beds.\\nFruit flies can become a nuisance with compost bins. If your compost is far enough away from your house you won't have a problem, but if not, just cover the top of you compost with a small scrap of carpet or some plastic with a small rock on top.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A compost bin is easy to build, and cleaner and more convenient than a compost pile. Whether you've been meaning to build one for a long time or very recently got the green thumb, there's no excuse to procrastinate. Here are instructions on building a general-purpose bin as well as a yard-waste-only bin for composting.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a General-Purpose Compost Bin\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"For this basic compost bin, you'll want untreated wood. Untreated wood will last for a plenty long time, and the treatment won't interfere with the composting process or overwhelm helpful fauna. Cedar is a great option. You'll need:\\nFour pieces of 2 x 2s or 4 x9s lumber, cut to 3' lengths. These posts will serve as the four corners to your square compost bin. Opt for rough, unplaned wood.\\n8-16 pieces of 2 x 6 lumber, again cut to 3' length. These boards will make up the walls of your compost bin. Most compost bins have spaces between the exterior boards for aeration; how big you want your spaces to be will depend on whether you use 8, 12, or 16 pieces of lumber.\\n9 square foot cover, preferably made of solid wood. A solid cover will help maintain a more consistent internal temperature for your compost bin.\\nGalvanized nails or coated deck screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Nail one 2 x 6 board across the bottom of two 4 x 4s.\", \"描述\": \"Place the two 4 x 4s on the ground, 3' apart so that the 2 x 6 fits evenly on either end. Measure off one or two inches from the bottom of each 4 x 4 so that the 2 x 6 will be level. Place the 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4s and drive two nails into each 4 x 4.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure the amount of space you want between each 2 x 6 board.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want to continue building the wall by nailing 2 x 6s onto the stakes, but you'll also want a little bit of space between each 2 x 6. How much space you choose is up to you. At any rate, you'll want the space between each board to be the same, or else the bin will look less professional and put-together.\\nAn inch or two is pretty standard. Any gap larger than two inches won't effectively hold in the material and will leave it exposed to small animals, such as raccoons and opossums.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Having chosen your spacing, nail another 2 x 6 onto the 4 x 4 above the previous one.\", \"描述\": \"Continue nailing 2 x 6s into place, factoring in the desired spacing, until you reach the top of the wall. At the end of this step, you'll have two vertical 4 x 4s cross-beamed with three or four perpendicular 2 x 6s. This is 1/4 of your square bin.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create another section of the wall in the exact same manner.\", \"描述\": \"Put down two 4 x 4s. Measure off one or two inches for your starting point. Then lay a 2 x 6 board perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s, hammering it into place with four nails. Continue placing, then hammering, 2 x 6s perpendicularly over the 4 x 4s — leaving the proper spacing — until you have wall no. 2 assembled. The two walls should be mirror images of one another.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Prop up the two walls parallel to one another and connect the back end of the bin with a perpendicular 2 x 6.\", \"描述\": \"As with the previous 2 x 6s, measure off from the bottom, drive in four nails, and space each one evenly. Hammer down 2 x 6s across the back wall of the 4 x 4 until the bin has three walls entirely built.\\nMake sure to offset the nails you drive into the 2 x 6s so that they don't collide with the nails driven into the 4 x 4s in the previous steps.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Complete the bin by placing the final boards perpendicularly across the front side.\", \"描述\": \"Hammer three or four 2 x 6s across the front face of the bin, following the same routine and remembering to offset the nails.\\nFor greater ease of use, make the front side removable either by adding hinges to the front boards or grooves for them to slide in and out of. This will make the easier to stir, turn, or remove the compost when needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cover with a 9 square foot cover.\", \"描述\": \"You can use a tarp or wood for the compost bin, although wood is decidedly better at retaining heat over the long run. If you desire, consider making two small wooden handles and attaching them to either side of your cover for easier placement.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Consider making one or two more identical bins so that you can have a turning unit.\", \"描述\": \"One bin contains active compost material; another bin contains processed (or processing) compost materials; the final bin contains soil you'll use to cover the active compost bin.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Yard-Waste-Only Compost Bin\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut out a large rectangle of chicken wire.\", \"描述\": \"This will form the body of your compost bin, which will be a cylinder shape. This bin will be able to compost things like yard waste, sawdust, and leaves. It can only be used outdoors over soil and will compost very slowly. \\nThe height of the rectangle will be the height of your bin.\\nThe length of the rectangle will be the diameter of your bin.\\nIf you're not sure where to begin, hold the uncut chicken wire in front of you to get a sense of how tall and wide you'd like it to be. Since you'll be filling this bin with yard waste, err on the large side.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make four stakes out of scrap wood.\", \"描述\": \"These will be staked into the ground to maintain the shape of your wire bin, so be sure that they are longer than the height of your chicken wire.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Flatten your rectangle of chicken wire onto the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Stretching it out will make it easier to work with.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Using a staple gun, attach a stake along one of the short edges of your chicken wire.\", \"描述\": \"This works best of you place the stake beneath the wire. The top of the stake should stick out slightly above the top of the wire.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Roll the other side of the chicken wire up and over so that the unstacked end overlaps the staked end.\", \"描述\": \"Your chicken wire should now be in the shape of a cylinder.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Staple the edge of your chicken wire along the stake.\", \"描述\": \"It may be necessary to crawl inside the wire to reach the stake better.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Stake your unfinished bin into the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you choose a spot that won't get in your way later.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Drive your other three stakes into the ground around the bin.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to stake them close enough to the wire that they don't pull it out of shape. When you are done, the four stakes should be in the shape of a square.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Staple the remaining stakes to the chicken wire.\", \"描述\": \"Once the bin is fully secured, you can start filling it with yard waste.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using Your Compost Bin\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put anything into your compost bin except the following materials.\", \"描述\": \"All organic matter will eventually decompose if you give it enough time. Grass, garden clippings, leftover fruits and vegetables, and certain animal manure are all fair game for your compost bin. Less advised is throwing meat, bones, and dairy (cheese, etc.) into the compost heap. Animal manure like cow and chicken manure is fine, but try to avoid cat or dog manure.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Know your greens and browns.\", \"描述\": \"Green compostable materials, which contain essential sources of nitrogen, include grasses, garden clippings, and green leaves. They are mostly moist. Brown compostable materials, which contain carbon-rich materials, include drier materials such as hay, twigs, and shredded cardboard. A mix of two parts green to one part brown is the ideal compost ratio.\\nYou don't have to be exact with your ratios. As long as you don't have an abundance of greens or an abundance of browns, your compost should turn out nutrient-rich and successful.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Shred your materials up for expedited composting.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to speed up the pace of your compost cycle, make sure to shred your materials before adding them to the bin. Grass clippings, of course, come pre-shredded, but you may want to put your twigs, hay, and other dry matter through the shredder in order to enlarge its surface area. The larger the surface area, the more the small animals and bacteria can process.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pay attention to heat and moisture in your compost pile.\", \"描述\": \"In order to get the composting kickstarted, your pile needs to be hot and wet. The two biggest problems a compost system encounters are lack of heat and lack of moisture. These affect the composting process in different ways.\\nTry to keep the internal heat of your compost bin at 110 °F (43 °C) or higher. Between 110 °F (43 °C) and 140 °F (60 °C) is the ideal temperature for your pile. If your pile dips below 110 °F (43 °C), consider adding more green nitrogen-rich material or more water.\\nTry to keep the compost pile damp throughout — never soaked and never dry. A moist pile will heat up more efficiently, allowing for better composing in the end.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Stir your compost with a strong pole or tool, making sure to cover your food scraps with dirt.\", \"描述\": \"A pitchfork is recommended and will work best. Mixing the compost will help breakdown the scraps faster. Mixing sinks the superficial compost to the bottom and brings the bottom-dwelling compost up top. Give your compost a stir every other day, especially if you notice it not getting hot enough.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Keep the compost cover anchored down with a heavy object in order to discourage looting from animals.\", \"描述\": \"A couple heavy bricks, placed near the center of your compost cover, will effectively keep animals like raccoons and opossums from throwing off the cover and looting your compost for easy pickings.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Compost can be used as mulch to cover flower beds, as potting soil and sprinkled over your grass as a lawn conditioner. Don't use it all though; save at least 1/3 of your original compost so you can start the process all over again.\\n\", \"For faster decomposition, chop the materials into smaller pieces rather than big pieces. Smaller pieces decompose faster and decomposition time is reduced.\\n\", \"Wait 2 to 3 months to use compost from the general-purpose bin. The yard-waste bin will take longer and be more dependent on weather conditions.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Since the chemical reactions that occur during composting produce heat, fresh compost can damage plants. Be sure to cool your compost before adding it to your flower beds.\\n\", \"Fruit flies can become a nuisance with compost bins. If your compost is far enough away from your house you won't have a problem, but if not, just cover the top of you compost with a small scrap of carpet or some plastic with a small rock on top.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,282 |
How to Build a Compost Container
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1. Making a Simple Pallet Container
1-1. Choose a level area of your yard and clear out any grass.
Look for a nice, flat spot in your yard that gets some sunlight that can warm your compost and help it break down. Use a shovel to clear away any grass in the area and use a tamper if you need to level out the ground.
If you can build your compost container near a water source, like a hose, even better. Compost needs to be slightly damp, so having water nearby will make things easier later on.
1-2. Select 4 pallets and clean them with soap and water.
Pick up some standard shipping pallets that don’t have any cracks or damaged boards. Scrub them down with some mild soap and water and rinse away the soap with clean water.
Look for pallets at your local hardware store or shipping supply store. You may also be able to find some free ones at local grocery stores.
1-3. Stand 1 pallet upright on one of its long edges.
This will be the back of your container.
1-4. Drive a wooden stake into the ground at each end of the pallet.
Use long wooden stakes for this (they'll need to be taller than the pallet when it's standing upright). Slide one of the stakes through the slats at one end of the pallet until it makes contact with the ground. Use a sledgehammer to drive the stake about 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) deep into the soil. Then, drive another stake into the ground at the other end of the pallet so it’s nice and stable.
If you want the stakes to be flush with the top of the pallet after you drive them into the ground, you can trim them down with a bone saw.
Look for stakes at your local hardware or home improvement store.
1-5. Connect 2 pallets at right angles to the first to make the sides.
Take another one of your pallets and stand it up on its long edge so it’s flush against the back pallet and forms a right angle with the rear side. Drive stakes about 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) deep into the ground between the slats at each end of the pallet so it’s firmly held upright. Then, stand up another pallet on its long edge so it’s flush against the backside to form another right angle. Drive stakes between the slats at each end of the pallet so you have a 3-sided structure.
1-6. Attach the 4th pallet to the front with 2-3 metal hinges to make a door.
Screw metal hinges onto one of the long edges of the last pallet. Then, connect the hinges to the long edge of one of the sides of the pallets secured to the ground so you have a door that swings open and shut.
Having a door makes it easier for you to add material and remove compost whenever you need it.
1-7. Staple chicken wire or wire netting to the inside of the container.
Wrap the wire or netting along all of the sides except the front door of the container. Use U-shaped nails or a staple gun to fasten the wire or netting to the pallets on the inside of the container.
The wire or mesh will help keep the compost from spilling out of the container.
Look for chicken wire or netting at your local hardware or home improvement store.
1-8. Stain the exterior of the container if you want to spruce it up.
Choose a stain color that you like and use a paintbrush to apply an even layer to the outside of your pallets. Allow the stain to dry and add additional layers if you want it to be darker.
Make sure you only apply stain to the exterior of your container so the chemicals don’t leach into your compost.
1-9. Fill your container with browns, greens, and kitchen scraps.
Start with browns such as dried leaves and torn pieces of cardboard. Add fresh green material like grass and vegetables. Then, start adding any kitchen scraps to the pile.
Try to keep a good balance of browns and greens so air can penetrate the compost and help speed up the decomposition process.
2. Creating an Indoor Container
2-1. Choose a plastic storage container with a lid.
Pick up a clean plastic container from your local home improvement or hardware store. Choose one that has a lid and is large enough to hold your food scraps but is small enough to fit wherever you plan to keep it.
Good places to keep an indoor compost container include beneath your sink, on a shelf in your pantry, or simply on your counter.
A lid will help keep out flies and other insects, so make sure you’ve got a container with a lid that fits well!
2-2. Drill 5 holes in the lid of the container.
Take a power drill and allow the bit to get up to speed. Press the end of the bit against the surface of the lid and gently push it through to create a clean hole with smooth sides. Drill 4 more holes into the lid to allow for plenty of ventilation.
The size of the drill bit doesn't really matter here—you just need holes so air can flow in and out of the container.
Having good airflow in your container will help the materials break down and turn into compost.
2-3. Cut a piece of nylon screen large enough to cover the air holes.
Take a sheet of nylon screen and lay it over the lid of your container. Mark the areas you need to trim with a marker. Take a pair of scissors and cut the screen to size.
Try to trim the screen as neatly as you can so it doesn’t hang over the edge of the lid.
2-4. Cover the air holes with the nylon screen.
Place the screen against the underside of the lid so it covers the air holes. Apply hot glue to the screen to firmly attach it to the lid so fruit flies and other insects can’t get inside.
2-5. Line the bottom of the container with newspaper and garden soil.
Take sheets of newspaper and tear them up into shreds. Add the shredded newspaper to the bottom of the container to help soak up any extra moisture. Then, add a layer of garden soil and your container is ready to go!
The garden soil introduces the microbes that will help break down your food scraps into compost.
2-6. Add 1 pound (0.45 kg) of red worms for every 3.5 pounds (1.6 kg) of waste.
If you want to help your food scraps break down more quickly, red worms (Eisenia Foetida or Lumbricus rubellus) will do the trick. Add them into your container and they’ll start eating the scraps and turning them into black gold, a.k.a. high-quality compost.
Look for red worms at your local gardening supply store or nursery. You can also order them online and you may even be able to find them at a local fishing supply store in the bait section.
2-7. Fill your container with kitchen scraps every day.
Add banana peels, coffee grounds, eggshells, and veggies as you cook or clean out your fridge. Break them up into smaller pieces so they’ll decompose more quickly in the compost.
Try not to add fat, meat, or dairy to your compost container or it could start to smell and potentially attract pests or rodents.
Once your container gets full of compost, you can add it to an outdoor compost pile, use it in your garden, or donate it to a collection site!
Tips
Your compost bin should be slightly damp at all times. If it looks dried out, add some water with a watering can.[22]
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Research source
When you add food scraps, bury them into the layer of compost to help them start to break down.
Warnings
Avoid adding meats, dairy, or fats to your compost bin so you don’t attract rodents and pests.[23]
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Research source
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Simple Pallet Container\\n1-1. Choose a level area of your yard and clear out any grass.\\nLook for a nice, flat spot in your yard that gets some sunlight that can warm your compost and help it break down. Use a shovel to clear away any grass in the area and use a tamper if you need to level out the ground.\\nIf you can build your compost container near a water source, like a hose, even better. Compost needs to be slightly damp, so having water nearby will make things easier later on.\\n1-2. Select 4 pallets and clean them with soap and water.\\nPick up some standard shipping pallets that don’t have any cracks or damaged boards. Scrub them down with some mild soap and water and rinse away the soap with clean water.\\nLook for pallets at your local hardware store or shipping supply store. You may also be able to find some free ones at local grocery stores.\\n1-3. Stand 1 pallet upright on one of its long edges.\\nThis will be the back of your container.\\n1-4. Drive a wooden stake into the ground at each end of the pallet.\\nUse long wooden stakes for this (they'll need to be taller than the pallet when it's standing upright). Slide one of the stakes through the slats at one end of the pallet until it makes contact with the ground. Use a sledgehammer to drive the stake about 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) deep into the soil. Then, drive another stake into the ground at the other end of the pallet so it’s nice and stable.\\nIf you want the stakes to be flush with the top of the pallet after you drive them into the ground, you can trim them down with a bone saw.\\nLook for stakes at your local hardware or home improvement store.\\n1-5. Connect 2 pallets at right angles to the first to make the sides.\\nTake another one of your pallets and stand it up on its long edge so it’s flush against the back pallet and forms a right angle with the rear side. Drive stakes about 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) deep into the ground between the slats at each end of the pallet so it’s firmly held upright. Then, stand up another pallet on its long edge so it’s flush against the backside to form another right angle. Drive stakes between the slats at each end of the pallet so you have a 3-sided structure.\\n1-6. Attach the 4th pallet to the front with 2-3 metal hinges to make a door.\\nScrew metal hinges onto one of the long edges of the last pallet. Then, connect the hinges to the long edge of one of the sides of the pallets secured to the ground so you have a door that swings open and shut.\\nHaving a door makes it easier for you to add material and remove compost whenever you need it.\\n1-7. Staple chicken wire or wire netting to the inside of the container.\\nWrap the wire or netting along all of the sides except the front door of the container. Use U-shaped nails or a staple gun to fasten the wire or netting to the pallets on the inside of the container.\\nThe wire or mesh will help keep the compost from spilling out of the container.\\nLook for chicken wire or netting at your local hardware or home improvement store.\\n1-8. Stain the exterior of the container if you want to spruce it up.\\nChoose a stain color that you like and use a paintbrush to apply an even layer to the outside of your pallets. Allow the stain to dry and add additional layers if you want it to be darker.\\nMake sure you only apply stain to the exterior of your container so the chemicals don’t leach into your compost.\\n1-9. Fill your container with browns, greens, and kitchen scraps.\\nStart with browns such as dried leaves and torn pieces of cardboard. Add fresh green material like grass and vegetables. Then, start adding any kitchen scraps to the pile.\\nTry to keep a good balance of browns and greens so air can penetrate the compost and help speed up the decomposition process.\\n2. Creating an Indoor Container\\n2-1. Choose a plastic storage container with a lid.\\nPick up a clean plastic container from your local home improvement or hardware store. Choose one that has a lid and is large enough to hold your food scraps but is small enough to fit wherever you plan to keep it.\\nGood places to keep an indoor compost container include beneath your sink, on a shelf in your pantry, or simply on your counter.\\nA lid will help keep out flies and other insects, so make sure you’ve got a container with a lid that fits well!\\n2-2. Drill 5 holes in the lid of the container.\\nTake a power drill and allow the bit to get up to speed. Press the end of the bit against the surface of the lid and gently push it through to create a clean hole with smooth sides. Drill 4 more holes into the lid to allow for plenty of ventilation.\\nThe size of the drill bit doesn't really matter here—you just need holes so air can flow in and out of the container.\\nHaving good airflow in your container will help the materials break down and turn into compost.\\n2-3. Cut a piece of nylon screen large enough to cover the air holes.\\nTake a sheet of nylon screen and lay it over the lid of your container. Mark the areas you need to trim with a marker. Take a pair of scissors and cut the screen to size.\\nTry to trim the screen as neatly as you can so it doesn’t hang over the edge of the lid.\\n2-4. Cover the air holes with the nylon screen.\\nPlace the screen against the underside of the lid so it covers the air holes. Apply hot glue to the screen to firmly attach it to the lid so fruit flies and other insects can’t get inside.\\n2-5. Line the bottom of the container with newspaper and garden soil.\\nTake sheets of newspaper and tear them up into shreds. Add the shredded newspaper to the bottom of the container to help soak up any extra moisture. Then, add a layer of garden soil and your container is ready to go!\\nThe garden soil introduces the microbes that will help break down your food scraps into compost.\\n2-6. Add 1 pound (0.45 kg) of red worms for every 3.5 pounds (1.6 kg) of waste.\\nIf you want to help your food scraps break down more quickly, red worms (Eisenia Foetida or Lumbricus rubellus) will do the trick. Add them into your container and they’ll start eating the scraps and turning them into black gold, a.k.a. high-quality compost.\\nLook for red worms at your local gardening supply store or nursery. You can also order them online and you may even be able to find them at a local fishing supply store in the bait section.\\n2-7. Fill your container with kitchen scraps every day.\\nAdd banana peels, coffee grounds, eggshells, and veggies as you cook or clean out your fridge. Break them up into smaller pieces so they’ll decompose more quickly in the compost.\\nTry not to add fat, meat, or dairy to your compost container or it could start to smell and potentially attract pests or rodents.\\nOnce your container gets full of compost, you can add it to an outdoor compost pile, use it in your garden, or donate it to a collection site!\\nTips\\nYour compost bin should be slightly damp at all times. If it looks dried out, add some water with a watering can.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWhen you add food scraps, bury them into the layer of compost to help them start to break down.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid adding meats, dairy, or fats to your compost bin so you don’t attract rodents and pests.[23]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Composting is a simple way to recycle your food waste and make your own all-natural fertilizer that your plants will just love. It’s also easy to do—all you really need is a good container to hold the material while it breaks down. Whether you’re looking to build a container in your yard or collect and compost your food scraps indoors, we’ve got some great options for you to choose from so you can get to it!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Simple Pallet Container\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a level area of your yard and clear out any grass.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a nice, flat spot in your yard that gets some sunlight that can warm your compost and help it break down. Use a shovel to clear away any grass in the area and use a tamper if you need to level out the ground.\\nIf you can build your compost container near a water source, like a hose, even better. Compost needs to be slightly damp, so having water nearby will make things easier later on.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Select 4 pallets and clean them with soap and water.\", \"描述\": \"Pick up some standard shipping pallets that don’t have any cracks or damaged boards. Scrub them down with some mild soap and water and rinse away the soap with clean water.\\nLook for pallets at your local hardware store or shipping supply store. You may also be able to find some free ones at local grocery stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stand 1 pallet upright on one of its long edges.\", \"描述\": \"This will be the back of your container.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drive a wooden stake into the ground at each end of the pallet.\", \"描述\": \"Use long wooden stakes for this (they'll need to be taller than the pallet when it's standing upright). Slide one of the stakes through the slats at one end of the pallet until it makes contact with the ground. Use a sledgehammer to drive the stake about 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) deep into the soil. Then, drive another stake into the ground at the other end of the pallet so it’s nice and stable.\\nIf you want the stakes to be flush with the top of the pallet after you drive them into the ground, you can trim them down with a bone saw.\\nLook for stakes at your local hardware or home improvement store.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect 2 pallets at right angles to the first to make the sides.\", \"描述\": \"Take another one of your pallets and stand it up on its long edge so it’s flush against the back pallet and forms a right angle with the rear side. Drive stakes about 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) deep into the ground between the slats at each end of the pallet so it’s firmly held upright. Then, stand up another pallet on its long edge so it’s flush against the backside to form another right angle. Drive stakes between the slats at each end of the pallet so you have a 3-sided structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the 4th pallet to the front with 2-3 metal hinges to make a door.\", \"描述\": \"Screw metal hinges onto one of the long edges of the last pallet. Then, connect the hinges to the long edge of one of the sides of the pallets secured to the ground so you have a door that swings open and shut.\\nHaving a door makes it easier for you to add material and remove compost whenever you need it.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Staple chicken wire or wire netting to the inside of the container.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap the wire or netting along all of the sides except the front door of the container. Use U-shaped nails or a staple gun to fasten the wire or netting to the pallets on the inside of the container.\\nThe wire or mesh will help keep the compost from spilling out of the container.\\nLook for chicken wire or netting at your local hardware or home improvement store.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Stain the exterior of the container if you want to spruce it up.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a stain color that you like and use a paintbrush to apply an even layer to the outside of your pallets. Allow the stain to dry and add additional layers if you want it to be darker.\\nMake sure you only apply stain to the exterior of your container so the chemicals don’t leach into your compost.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Fill your container with browns, greens, and kitchen scraps.\", \"描述\": \"Start with browns such as dried leaves and torn pieces of cardboard. Add fresh green material like grass and vegetables. Then, start adding any kitchen scraps to the pile.\\nTry to keep a good balance of browns and greens so air can penetrate the compost and help speed up the decomposition process.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating an Indoor Container\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a plastic storage container with a lid.\", \"描述\": \"Pick up a clean plastic container from your local home improvement or hardware store. Choose one that has a lid and is large enough to hold your food scraps but is small enough to fit wherever you plan to keep it.\\nGood places to keep an indoor compost container include beneath your sink, on a shelf in your pantry, or simply on your counter.\\nA lid will help keep out flies and other insects, so make sure you’ve got a container with a lid that fits well!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill 5 holes in the lid of the container.\", \"描述\": \"Take a power drill and allow the bit to get up to speed. Press the end of the bit against the surface of the lid and gently push it through to create a clean hole with smooth sides. Drill 4 more holes into the lid to allow for plenty of ventilation.\\nThe size of the drill bit doesn't really matter here—you just need holes so air can flow in and out of the container.\\nHaving good airflow in your container will help the materials break down and turn into compost.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut a piece of nylon screen large enough to cover the air holes.\", \"描述\": \"Take a sheet of nylon screen and lay it over the lid of your container. Mark the areas you need to trim with a marker. Take a pair of scissors and cut the screen to size.\\nTry to trim the screen as neatly as you can so it doesn’t hang over the edge of the lid.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the air holes with the nylon screen.\", \"描述\": \"Place the screen against the underside of the lid so it covers the air holes. Apply hot glue to the screen to firmly attach it to the lid so fruit flies and other insects can’t get inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Line the bottom of the container with newspaper and garden soil.\", \"描述\": \"Take sheets of newspaper and tear them up into shreds. Add the shredded newspaper to the bottom of the container to help soak up any extra moisture. Then, add a layer of garden soil and your container is ready to go!\\nThe garden soil introduces the microbes that will help break down your food scraps into compost.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add 1 pound (0.45 kg) of red worms for every 3.5 pounds (1.6 kg) of waste.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to help your food scraps break down more quickly, red worms (Eisenia Foetida or Lumbricus rubellus) will do the trick. Add them into your container and they’ll start eating the scraps and turning them into black gold, a.k.a. high-quality compost.\\nLook for red worms at your local gardening supply store or nursery. You can also order them online and you may even be able to find them at a local fishing supply store in the bait section.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fill your container with kitchen scraps every day.\", \"描述\": \"Add banana peels, coffee grounds, eggshells, and veggies as you cook or clean out your fridge. Break them up into smaller pieces so they’ll decompose more quickly in the compost.\\nTry not to add fat, meat, or dairy to your compost container or it could start to smell and potentially attract pests or rodents.\\nOnce your container gets full of compost, you can add it to an outdoor compost pile, use it in your garden, or donate it to a collection site!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Your compost bin should be slightly damp at all times. If it looks dried out, add some water with a watering can.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"When you add food scraps, bury them into the layer of compost to help them start to break down.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid adding meats, dairy, or fats to your compost bin so you don’t attract rodents and pests.[23]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,283 |
How to Build a Compost Pile
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1. Setting Up Your Compost Pile Foundation
1-1. Select the best location.
The pile should be easily accessible, and, depending on your preferences, hidden from the main view of your yard/garden. Some people do not mind looking at their compost pile in their garden, but if you prefer not to see it, be sure to find a location out of sight or screen it off.
The reason the pile must be easily accessible is because you will be using it — a lot. You will add to, turn and remove the finished compost from the pile, and you do not want it to be a chore just getting to the pile!
You will also need to add water during dry spells, so locate the pile within reach of the hose. It is important to locate the pile away from all structures, since the composting process is one of decay and rotting your house, shed or fence should be avoided.
Check your municipality for local ordinances against placing compost piles close to lot lines; you may not be able to simply place your compost pile wherever you want.
1-2. Start your compost pile during the right time of the year.
While you can set up your compost pile during any season, certain times are better than others. During the spring or summer, high-nitrogen materials are ever-present, but not that much carbon material exists. Fall is when both high-nitrogen (lawn trimmings) and high-carbon materials (dead leaves) are plentiful.
1-3. Decide how much containment you want.
The fastest compost pile to build is a simple mound — just throw everything to be composted into a heap and let it rot. Or, you can enclose the pile with rocks, boards, concrete chunks or fencing.
If you decide you want a faster, more efficient means of composting, try using a composting bin and introduce your own vermicompost system. Because of the enclosure, compost bins are generally more efficient at breaking down organic materials than compost piles.
1-4. Try building a very basic container for your pile.
There are as many different ways to build a pile foundation as there are ways to dream it up. A very basic pile is all you really need, although you can upgrade to fancier, more aesthetically-pleasing containers if you'd like. Here's how to build your super-basic container:
Measure out a plot at least 3'x3'. This will be big enough to accommodate a lot of organic material without creating an eyesore in your back yard.
Get some wooden 2x4s or similarly-sized wooden stakes (bonus points for medium branches that have more of a rustic look). Grab enough so that you can drive the 2x4s into a 3'x'3 square about every half-foot along the perimeter. This will take anywhere from 15 to 20 stakes.
Drive a stake into the ground about every half-foot, until you've sectioned off a square. You may want to leave an opening on one of the sides. This will make it easy to reach your pile and turn it with a shovel or fork.
2. Starting a Regular Cycle
2-1. Know what not to put in your pile.
You can compost anything that rots — except greasy or diseased plants. Foods like cheese or meat do not decay properly and will lead to rodent and non-beneficial insect problems.
Diseased plants are best composted in a container where the heating process can kill the pathogens. A compost pile heats unevenly, unless you turn it every few days being diligent in making sure that all plant material spends time in the center of the pile. So, it’s easiest to just leave the diseased plants out and avoid the possibility of spreading trouble in your garden.
2-2. Aim for a balance of carbon (dead/brown/dry) and nitrogen (green) material.
It is usually recommended that you add 60% carbon to 40% nitrogen. Layer your materials with a slight mist from a garden hose to dampen (do not wet or soak) each layer.
If all you have is green plant material (like grass), you can add newspaper as the carbon source. Other sources of compostable carbon include:
Straw
Dry leaves
Used animal bedding
Shredded cardboard
Sawdust and wood chips
Small branches/twigs
Paper towel
2-3. Decide whether you want to shred your materials.
It is up to you whether you shred the material or not. If you want a faster composting cycle, then shredding speeds the process up considerably. Shredding also makes for a neater looking pile and one that is easier to turn.
What does shredding do? Shredding creates a bigger surface area for organic materials, thereby exposing them to more bacterial invasion. Larger pieces of organic material impede aerobic decomposition.
Do not shred highly vegetative or moist organic materials. These materials become too soggy. Their moisture contents make aerobic decomposition a lot more tricky.
2-4. Start layering.
This part is the most fun. Every time you add to your compost pile, try to add in layers. There are three basic layers in a compost pile, and putting them down together and in the right order is important:
— carbon: Materials that will provide carbon include hay, sod, straw, leaves, untreated sawdust, chopped corncobs, corn stalks, or small twigs. Put the bulkier items at the bottom of the pile, and lighter materials on top.
— nitrogen: This is the ignition, so to speak, that starts the composting process. Manures, fertilizers, vegetable wastes, grass clippings, garden debris, and starters provide nitrogen for your microbial army.
— topsoil: Avoid sterile potting soils or those soils treated with insecticides, as these do not contain or nurture much-needed microbes.
2-5. Be sure to add twigs if you have them.
Every 8 inches (20.3 cm) or so, add some coarser material to guarantee proper air flow. Twigs or large plant stems can be good. You can use non-compostable material as well, so long as it does not leak toxins into your compost. The compost is, in a way, a living, breathing thing. The decay process is completed by microbes, beneficial insects and worms — all of which need air and water to survive.
3. Maintaining the Compost Pile
3-1. Occasionally “stir” the pile.
This is done by lifting the middle to the outer edges and the outer edges to the middle using a pitchfork. Also, water if dry. This will ensure proper and even distribution of the decomposition process.
3-2. Maintain the pile.
You want to keep the center of the pile hot and evenly moist. Whenever the center of the pile dips below 110 °F (43 °C), use a shovel to stir the pile and turn organic material around.
You will know if the pile is hot, because in cooler weather you will see steam. In warmer weather, you can feel the heat when you turn the pile.
Remember that too much water will drown the microbes and chase away the worms; this can also cause the pile to get a "rotten" odor. If the pile gets too dry, the decay process stops. Aim for evenly moist.
3-3. For less active compost piles, turn and water every 4 to 6 weeks.
If you seldom add new layers to your compost, you won't have to stir very often. A small compost pile that's assembled in the fall should be ready to use 3 or 4 months later at the beginning of spring.
3-4. Keep it hot.
A hot pile rots faster, but it is not necessary. You can decide to just throw all of your vegetation onto the pile and let nature take care of it. This is a slower process and takes about a year to decay most plants. To keep the pile hot, every few days go out and turn it.
4. Diagnosing Common Composting Problems
Finished.
Tips
If you decide that a pile is too untidy for you, do a search about building a compost bin. There are as many ways to make a bin as there are gardeners. The type of composter that is the easiest to use is one that can be turned.
The compost is ready when it no longer heats up and looks similar to dirt. It will have a fresh earthy scent, too.
The amazing thing about compost – it happens without any help.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting Up Your Compost Pile Foundation\\n1-1. Select the best location.\\nThe pile should be easily accessible, and, depending on your preferences, hidden from the main view of your yard/garden. Some people do not mind looking at their compost pile in their garden, but if you prefer not to see it, be sure to find a location out of sight or screen it off.\\nThe reason the pile must be easily accessible is because you will be using it — a lot. You will add to, turn and remove the finished compost from the pile, and you do not want it to be a chore just getting to the pile!\\nYou will also need to add water during dry spells, so locate the pile within reach of the hose. It is important to locate the pile away from all structures, since the composting process is one of decay and rotting your house, shed or fence should be avoided.\\nCheck your municipality for local ordinances against placing compost piles close to lot lines; you may not be able to simply place your compost pile wherever you want.\\n1-2. Start your compost pile during the right time of the year.\\nWhile you can set up your compost pile during any season, certain times are better than others. During the spring or summer, high-nitrogen materials are ever-present, but not that much carbon material exists. Fall is when both high-nitrogen (lawn trimmings) and high-carbon materials (dead leaves) are plentiful.\\n1-3. Decide how much containment you want.\\nThe fastest compost pile to build is a simple mound — just throw everything to be composted into a heap and let it rot. Or, you can enclose the pile with rocks, boards, concrete chunks or fencing.\\nIf you decide you want a faster, more efficient means of composting, try using a composting bin and introduce your own vermicompost system. Because of the enclosure, compost bins are generally more efficient at breaking down organic materials than compost piles.\\n1-4. Try building a very basic container for your pile.\\nThere are as many different ways to build a pile foundation as there are ways to dream it up. A very basic pile is all you really need, although you can upgrade to fancier, more aesthetically-pleasing containers if you'd like. Here's how to build your super-basic container:\\nMeasure out a plot at least 3'x3'. This will be big enough to accommodate a lot of organic material without creating an eyesore in your back yard.\\nGet some wooden 2x4s or similarly-sized wooden stakes (bonus points for medium branches that have more of a rustic look). Grab enough so that you can drive the 2x4s into a 3'x'3 square about every half-foot along the perimeter. This will take anywhere from 15 to 20 stakes.\\nDrive a stake into the ground about every half-foot, until you've sectioned off a square. You may want to leave an opening on one of the sides. This will make it easy to reach your pile and turn it with a shovel or fork.\\n2. Starting a Regular Cycle\\n2-1. Know what not to put in your pile.\\nYou can compost anything that rots — except greasy or diseased plants. Foods like cheese or meat do not decay properly and will lead to rodent and non-beneficial insect problems.\\nDiseased plants are best composted in a container where the heating process can kill the pathogens. A compost pile heats unevenly, unless you turn it every few days being diligent in making sure that all plant material spends time in the center of the pile. So, it’s easiest to just leave the diseased plants out and avoid the possibility of spreading trouble in your garden.\\n2-2. Aim for a balance of carbon (dead/brown/dry) and nitrogen (green) material.\\nIt is usually recommended that you add 60% carbon to 40% nitrogen. Layer your materials with a slight mist from a garden hose to dampen (do not wet or soak) each layer.\\nIf all you have is green plant material (like grass), you can add newspaper as the carbon source. Other sources of compostable carbon include:\\nStraw\\nDry leaves\\nUsed animal bedding\\nShredded cardboard\\nSawdust and wood chips\\nSmall branches/twigs\\nPaper towel\\n2-3. Decide whether you want to shred your materials.\\nIt is up to you whether you shred the material or not. If you want a faster composting cycle, then shredding speeds the process up considerably. Shredding also makes for a neater looking pile and one that is easier to turn.\\nWhat does shredding do? Shredding creates a bigger surface area for organic materials, thereby exposing them to more bacterial invasion. Larger pieces of organic material impede aerobic decomposition.\\nDo not shred highly vegetative or moist organic materials. These materials become too soggy. Their moisture contents make aerobic decomposition a lot more tricky.\\n2-4. Start layering.\\nThis part is the most fun. Every time you add to your compost pile, try to add in layers. There are three basic layers in a compost pile, and putting them down together and in the right order is important:\\n\\n — carbon: Materials that will provide carbon include hay, sod, straw, leaves, untreated sawdust, chopped corncobs, corn stalks, or small twigs. Put the bulkier items at the bottom of the pile, and lighter materials on top.\\n — nitrogen: This is the ignition, so to speak, that starts the composting process. Manures, fertilizers, vegetable wastes, grass clippings, garden debris, and starters provide nitrogen for your microbial army.\\n — topsoil: Avoid sterile potting soils or those soils treated with insecticides, as these do not contain or nurture much-needed microbes.\\n2-5. Be sure to add twigs if you have them.\\nEvery 8 inches (20.3 cm) or so, add some coarser material to guarantee proper air flow. Twigs or large plant stems can be good. You can use non-compostable material as well, so long as it does not leak toxins into your compost. The compost is, in a way, a living, breathing thing. The decay process is completed by microbes, beneficial insects and worms — all of which need air and water to survive.\\n3. Maintaining the Compost Pile\\n3-1. Occasionally “stir” the pile.\\nThis is done by lifting the middle to the outer edges and the outer edges to the middle using a pitchfork. Also, water if dry. This will ensure proper and even distribution of the decomposition process.\\n3-2. Maintain the pile.\\nYou want to keep the center of the pile hot and evenly moist. Whenever the center of the pile dips below 110 °F (43 °C), use a shovel to stir the pile and turn organic material around.\\nYou will know if the pile is hot, because in cooler weather you will see steam. In warmer weather, you can feel the heat when you turn the pile.\\nRemember that too much water will drown the microbes and chase away the worms; this can also cause the pile to get a \\\"rotten\\\" odor. If the pile gets too dry, the decay process stops. Aim for evenly moist.\\n3-3. For less active compost piles, turn and water every 4 to 6 weeks.\\nIf you seldom add new layers to your compost, you won't have to stir very often. A small compost pile that's assembled in the fall should be ready to use 3 or 4 months later at the beginning of spring.\\n3-4. Keep it hot.\\nA hot pile rots faster, but it is not necessary. You can decide to just throw all of your vegetation onto the pile and let nature take care of it. This is a slower process and takes about a year to decay most plants. To keep the pile hot, every few days go out and turn it.\\n4. Diagnosing Common Composting Problems\\nFinished.\\n\\nTips\\nIf you decide that a pile is too untidy for you, do a search about building a compost bin. There are as many ways to make a bin as there are gardeners. The type of composter that is the easiest to use is one that can be turned.\\nThe compost is ready when it no longer heats up and looks similar to dirt. It will have a fresh earthy scent, too.\\nThe amazing thing about compost – it happens without any help.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a compost pile is one of the easiest gardening projects you will ever undertake and one of the most important. Given time and exposure to elements, organic material will break down on its own. But you can also speed the process up. That's where composting comes in. Compost provides excellent nutrition for plants, builds the soil, feeds beneficial microbes, and keeps valuable resources out of landfills. Not to mention it's fun! Here's how to build your very own compost pile.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting Up Your Compost Pile Foundation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select the best location.\", \"描述\": \"The pile should be easily accessible, and, depending on your preferences, hidden from the main view of your yard/garden. Some people do not mind looking at their compost pile in their garden, but if you prefer not to see it, be sure to find a location out of sight or screen it off.\\nThe reason the pile must be easily accessible is because you will be using it — a lot. You will add to, turn and remove the finished compost from the pile, and you do not want it to be a chore just getting to the pile!\\nYou will also need to add water during dry spells, so locate the pile within reach of the hose. It is important to locate the pile away from all structures, since the composting process is one of decay and rotting your house, shed or fence should be avoided.\\nCheck your municipality for local ordinances against placing compost piles close to lot lines; you may not be able to simply place your compost pile wherever you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start your compost pile during the right time of the year.\", \"描述\": \"While you can set up your compost pile during any season, certain times are better than others. During the spring or summer, high-nitrogen materials are ever-present, but not that much carbon material exists. Fall is when both high-nitrogen (lawn trimmings) and high-carbon materials (dead leaves) are plentiful.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide how much containment you want.\", \"描述\": \"The fastest compost pile to build is a simple mound — just throw everything to be composted into a heap and let it rot. Or, you can enclose the pile with rocks, boards, concrete chunks or fencing.\\nIf you decide you want a faster, more efficient means of composting, try using a composting bin and introduce your own vermicompost system. Because of the enclosure, compost bins are generally more efficient at breaking down organic materials than compost piles.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try building a very basic container for your pile.\", \"描述\": \"There are as many different ways to build a pile foundation as there are ways to dream it up. A very basic pile is all you really need, although you can upgrade to fancier, more aesthetically-pleasing containers if you'd like. Here's how to build your super-basic container:\\nMeasure out a plot at least 3'x3'. This will be big enough to accommodate a lot of organic material without creating an eyesore in your back yard.\\nGet some wooden 2x4s or similarly-sized wooden stakes (bonus points for medium branches that have more of a rustic look). Grab enough so that you can drive the 2x4s into a 3'x'3 square about every half-foot along the perimeter. This will take anywhere from 15 to 20 stakes.\\nDrive a stake into the ground about every half-foot, until you've sectioned off a square. You may want to leave an opening on one of the sides. This will make it easy to reach your pile and turn it with a shovel or fork.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Starting a Regular Cycle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know what not to put in your pile.\", \"描述\": \"You can compost anything that rots — except greasy or diseased plants. Foods like cheese or meat do not decay properly and will lead to rodent and non-beneficial insect problems.\\nDiseased plants are best composted in a container where the heating process can kill the pathogens. A compost pile heats unevenly, unless you turn it every few days being diligent in making sure that all plant material spends time in the center of the pile. So, it’s easiest to just leave the diseased plants out and avoid the possibility of spreading trouble in your garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Aim for a balance of carbon (dead/brown/dry) and nitrogen (green) material.\", \"描述\": \"It is usually recommended that you add 60% carbon to 40% nitrogen. Layer your materials with a slight mist from a garden hose to dampen (do not wet or soak) each layer.\\nIf all you have is green plant material (like grass), you can add newspaper as the carbon source. Other sources of compostable carbon include:\\nStraw\\nDry leaves\\nUsed animal bedding\\nShredded cardboard\\nSawdust and wood chips\\nSmall branches/twigs\\nPaper towel\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide whether you want to shred your materials.\", \"描述\": \"It is up to you whether you shred the material or not. If you want a faster composting cycle, then shredding speeds the process up considerably. Shredding also makes for a neater looking pile and one that is easier to turn.\\nWhat does shredding do? Shredding creates a bigger surface area for organic materials, thereby exposing them to more bacterial invasion. Larger pieces of organic material impede aerobic decomposition.\\nDo not shred highly vegetative or moist organic materials. These materials become too soggy. Their moisture contents make aerobic decomposition a lot more tricky.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Start layering.\", \"描述\": \"This part is the most fun. Every time you add to your compost pile, try to add in layers. There are three basic layers in a compost pile, and putting them down together and in the right order is important:\\n\\n — carbon: Materials that will provide carbon include hay, sod, straw, leaves, untreated sawdust, chopped corncobs, corn stalks, or small twigs. Put the bulkier items at the bottom of the pile, and lighter materials on top.\\n — nitrogen: This is the ignition, so to speak, that starts the composting process. Manures, fertilizers, vegetable wastes, grass clippings, garden debris, and starters provide nitrogen for your microbial army.\\n — topsoil: Avoid sterile potting soils or those soils treated with insecticides, as these do not contain or nurture much-needed microbes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Be sure to add twigs if you have them.\", \"描述\": \"Every 8 inches (20.3 cm) or so, add some coarser material to guarantee proper air flow. Twigs or large plant stems can be good. You can use non-compostable material as well, so long as it does not leak toxins into your compost. The compost is, in a way, a living, breathing thing. The decay process is completed by microbes, beneficial insects and worms — all of which need air and water to survive.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Maintaining the Compost Pile\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Occasionally “stir” the pile.\", \"描述\": \"This is done by lifting the middle to the outer edges and the outer edges to the middle using a pitchfork. Also, water if dry. This will ensure proper and even distribution of the decomposition process.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Maintain the pile.\", \"描述\": \"You want to keep the center of the pile hot and evenly moist. Whenever the center of the pile dips below 110 °F (43 °C), use a shovel to stir the pile and turn organic material around.\\nYou will know if the pile is hot, because in cooler weather you will see steam. In warmer weather, you can feel the heat when you turn the pile.\\nRemember that too much water will drown the microbes and chase away the worms; this can also cause the pile to get a \\\"rotten\\\" odor. If the pile gets too dry, the decay process stops. Aim for evenly moist.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"For less active compost piles, turn and water every 4 to 6 weeks.\", \"描述\": \"If you seldom add new layers to your compost, you won't have to stir very often. A small compost pile that's assembled in the fall should be ready to use 3 or 4 months later at the beginning of spring.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep it hot.\", \"描述\": \"A hot pile rots faster, but it is not necessary. You can decide to just throw all of your vegetation onto the pile and let nature take care of it. This is a slower process and takes about a year to decay most plants. To keep the pile hot, every few days go out and turn it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Diagnosing Common Composting Problems\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you decide that a pile is too untidy for you, do a search about building a compost bin. There are as many ways to make a bin as there are gardeners. The type of composter that is the easiest to use is one that can be turned.\\n\", \"The compost is ready when it no longer heats up and looks similar to dirt. It will have a fresh earthy scent, too.\\n\", \"The amazing thing about compost – it happens without any help.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,284 |
How to Build a Computer
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1. Planning and Budgeting
1-1. Determine your computer's use.
Before you buy any components or establish a budget, you'll need to know what you plan on using the computer for. Standard desktop PCs which are used for things like browsing and minor programs (e.g., Microsoft Word and Excel) can use older, less expensive parts, while gaming- or editing-focused computers will need more powerful, up-to-date parts.
1-2. Establish a budget.
It's too easy to start buying attractive parts without sticking to a budget, only to realize that you're out of money and don't have all of the necessary equipment to build your PC. Figure out a soft limit (e.g., $300) and a hard limit (e.g., $400) and try to stay within that range.
Common sense should guide your purchasing as well. For example, if the processor for which you budget is $100 but a nicer, newer model is discounted from $200 to $120 at your local tech store, spending the extra $20 is probably a better long-term investment.
1-3. Know which components you need to buy.
No matter how expensive your computer, you will need the following components for your project:
Processor (CPU) — Acts as the "brain" of your computer. In most builds, the CPU is usually the most expensive component.
Motherboard — Serves as an interface between all of your computer's components and the processor.
RAM — Random Access Memory. More RAM will provide more "workspace" to increase your computer's performance. Think about the RAM as a table: more RAM gives you more room for doing things on that table. Less RAM is like having a smaller table!
Storage Drive — Stores data. You can buy a traditional hard disk drive (HDD), or you can opt for a more expensive solid state drive (SSD) if you want an exceptionally fast drive.
Power supply — Powers all of your computer's individual components. The power supply is also the interface between your computer and the wall socket into which you plug your computer.
Case — Necessary for storing and cooling your components.
Graphics card — Used to render images on your computer. While most processors have a built-in graphics processing unit (GPU), you can buy a dedicated graphics card if you plan on gaming or using your computer for intensive editing.
Cooling system — This includes case fans and coolers for specific parts and keeps the inside of your case at a safe temperature. Only necessary for gaming and editing PCs—regular PCs should be fine with a stock cooler.
2. Buying Components
2-1. Know where to buy components.
In-store locations such as Best Buy will stock computer components, but you can usually find comparable parts for cheaper if you shop online. Common online locations include Amazon, eBay, and NewEgg.
Don't write off used parts, especially if the parts are listed as "Like New" or are in new condition. You can often buy such parts at a heavily discounted price for little to no change in function.
Waiting for sales (e.g. Black Friday Sales) can often pay off, as parts can be heavily discounted, allowing you to either save money or opt for better components for the same price.
Some online retailers may offer a 'free shipping' deal if you spend a certain amount of money. Consider buying enough parts from those sites to save on shipping, which is often expensive. This doesn't mean you should pay more for components cheaper elsewhere though!
2-2. Research every component you intend to purchase.
Read magazines and online consumer review sites for more information. Remember, this is one of the most important steps, because everything will depend on your hardware working correctly.
A few relevant articles on wikiHow include How to Build a Cheap Gaming Computer, How to Choose Components for Building a Computer, and How to Build a Powerful Quiet Computer.
Look for good reviews for your preferred product, both on the site from which you're considering purchasing it and elsewhere. Stay away from marketing graphs or numbers - there is always some trickery to make the numbers seem better than they are. Some reputable hardware reviewers are Linus Tech Tips, Tom's Hardware or Gamers Nexus.
Once you've found a decently reviewed component, look for negative reviews of the component. You may find that the component is great for certain uses, but inappropriate for your own preferences. Many review sites will have filters you can use to exclude good reviews for this purpose.
2-3. Find a processor (CPU).
The CPU (central processing unit) is the core of your computer's performance. The higher the processor's speed in gigahertz (GHz), the faster it can process data. Many applications use multiple threads at the same time, so more cores can improve performance.
The processor will usually entail a large part of your budget.
Processors typically come in quad-core, hexa-core or higher. Unless you're building an ultra-high-performance gaming PC, you should stick to around 6 cores.
Intel and AMD are two of the main processor manufacturers. Research your specific CPU to find its alternative from the other brand, and read comparisons to find out which one will be better for your specific needs.
2-4. Get a motherboard which fits your processor.
You'll want to select a motherboard which is compatible with your processor, which can be accomplished by checking the socket of the CPU and motherboard. Other aspects to look for in a motherboard include the following:
Onboard Wi-Fi (ensures that your computer will have wireless capabilities)
Bluetooth
Multiple RAM slots/high RAM capacity
Support for graphics cards if necessary (PCIe x16 slot)
2-5. Purchase RAM.
RAM is responsible for storing data from running programs, so having enough of it is important. Before buying RAM, be sure to check both your processor and your motherboard for the type of RAM which is supported.
There is a limit to how much RAM your computer can use, and that limit is dictated by your processor's capabilities (typically 128GB), and your applications. If a program stores only 1GB data in the RAM, more RAM won't accelerate the task. 8GB tends to be the standard for RAM capacity, although the increasing needs of more complex programs is pushing this standard towards 16GB, although 8GB is plenty for basic word processing and non-demanding tasks.
Depending on your motherboard, you'll usually buy either DDR3 RAM or, more commonly, DDR4 RAM. The type of RAM that is supported by your motherboard will be noted in the motherboard's documentation.
2-6. Buy a storage device.
Comparatively speaking, purchasing a storage device is easy—most drives are compatible with virtually all motherboards and processors, though you may need to make sure the drive you find will fit in your case. For this step, you must choose whether you want a hard disk drive (HDD) or a solid state drive (SSD). SSDs are much faster than traditional HDDs, and contain no moving parts, as well as being a much smaller size. An SSD either comes as a standalone drive (about the size of a credit card) or an M.2 drive, which slots directly into your motherboard. Standalone SSDs and HDDs typically connect to your motherboard via a SATA cable.
Your average HDD has a speed of 7200 RPM.
HDDs can also use IDE instead of SATA as their connections, but SATA is newer and thus supported on all modern motherboards.
The added benefits of an SSD also come with a higher price tag.
Many PC users choose a relatively small capacity (200-500GB) SSD to use as their boot drive (the drive the operating system runs on), and then use a larger (500GB-1TB) HDD for their files. This makes the computer run much faster, as the operating system will benefit from the increased speeds of the SSD.
2-7. Purchase a graphics card if necessary.
A dedicated graphics card (sometimes called a GPU or video card) is essential for playing the latest games, but not a major issue for a computer you plan on using for daily tasks. If you watch or edit a lot of HD video or play a lot of games, you'll want a dedicated graphics card.
As with any other component, make sure that your graphics card is compatible with your motherboard. However, you are unlikely to get issues.
After the CPU (or in some cases, before the CPU), the graphics card should be the most expensive component in your PC, depending on what you want to do with it.
Graphics cards are also referred to as "video cards" or "GPU".
2-8. Make sure your power supply can handle the load.
The power supply powers all of your components in your computer. Some cases come with a power supply already installed, but others require you to provide your own. The power supply should be powerful enough to run all of your components; don't worry about it being so powerful that you waste electricity by powering more than you need, as it will only output as many watts as you use and the number on its wattage is only its max capacity.
It's best to buy more watts than you need, as this will make future component upgrades easier, and switching your PSU out for a higher wattage one is a complex process.
2-9. Pick up a case that is both functional and easy on the eyes.
The case is what holds your computer components. A few cases come with a power supply included, but if you are making a gaming build then getting a separate power supply is recommended, as the power supplies that come with cases are usually not very high quality.
The size of the case will be based on how many drives bays and card slots it has, as well as the size and type of your motherboard.
Be sure to select a case which can fit all of your components, including your hard drive.
Cases might obstruct air flow causing some higher-end components with larger power draw to overheat.
If you're looking to save money, this is one area where you can spend a little less and not compromise on performance.
3. Assembling the Parts
3-1. Ground yourself
Use an antistatic wrist-strap cable to prevent electrostatic discharge (ESD) which can be deadly to computer electronics. Alternatively, touch a large metal body like a radiator to discharge yourself.
3-2. Open the case.
Unscrew the side panel (or slide it toward the back of the case) to do so.
3-3. Install the power supply.
Some cases come with the power supply already installed, while others will require you to purchase the power supply separately and install it yourself. Make sure that the power supply is installed in the correct orientation, and that nothing is blocking the power supply's fan.
The power supply will usually go near the top or the bottom rear of the case. You can determine where the power supply is supposed to sit by looking for a missing section on the back of the case.
3-4. Add components to the motherboard.
This is usually easiest to do before you install the motherboard, as the case can limit your ability to wire components:
Attach the processor to the motherboard by finding the processor port on the motherboard's surface. There is a small, golden triangle on the corner of every CPU, which must be matched with a similar triangle on your motherboard.
Attach your RAM to the motherboard by finding the RAM slots and inserting the RAM appropriately (they should only fit one way).
Attach your power supply to the motherboard's power connectors.
Locate (but do not attach) the motherboard's hard drive SATA port. You'll use this to connect the hard drive to the motherboard later.
3-5. Apply thermal paste to the processor if necessary.
Put a small dot (around the size of a grain of rice or a pea) of thermal paste on the CPU. Adding too much thermal paste will create a mess, such as getting paste into the motherboard socket, which may short circuit components and decrease the motherboard's value if you plan to sell it later.
3-6. Attach the CPU cooler.
This varies from cooler to cooler, so read the instructions for your processor.
Most stock coolers attach directly over the processor and screw into the motherboard.
Aftermarket coolers may have brackets that need to be attached underneath the motherboard.
3-7. Prepare your case.
You may need to knock the plates out of the back of the case in order to fit your components into the correct positions.
If your case has separate shelving units to hold your hard drive, install the units using the included screws.
You may need to install and wire your case's fans before you can install any components. If so, follow your case's fan installation instructions.
3-8. Secure the motherboard.
Once the standoffs are installed, place the motherboard in the case and push it up against the backplate. All of the back ports should fit into the holes in the I/O backplate.
Use the screws provided to secure the motherboard to the standoffs through the shielded screw holes on the motherboard.
3-9. Plug in the case connectors.
These tend to be located together on the motherboard near the front of the case. The order in which these are connected will depend on which is easiest. Make sure that you connect the USB ports, the Power and Reset switches, the LED power and hard drive lights, and the audio cable. Your motherboard’s documentation will show you where on your motherboard these connectors attach.
There is typically only one way that these connectors can attach to the motherboard. Don’t try to force anything to fit.
The pins of these connectors are often very thin and delicate, so take extreme care not to bend or break any.
3-10. Install your storage drive/s.
This process will vary slightly depending on your case, but should typically go as follows:
Remove any front panels on the case (if you're installing an optical drive, you will usually install it near the top of the case).
Insert the hard drive into its slot (again, usually near the top of the case).
Tighten any screws needed to hold the drive in place.
Plug the drive's SATA cable into the SATA slot on the motherboard.
If you're using an M.2 SSD, you'll need to slot this into the motherboard, and screw it down to the small post on the end opposite to the slot. Many motherboards have heatsinks over M.2 slots, so make sure you remove any plastic backing after installing your drive and replacing the heatsink.
3-11. Connect the power supply to any necessary components.
If you haven't already connected the power supply to components which need power, make sure that it is connected to the following locations:
Motherboard. This is connected with the largest plug: a (usually) 24 pin connector.
Graphics card(s). These draw 75W of power from the PCIe slot on the motherboard, but may require additional power in the form of 6 or 8 pin connectors on the card.
Storage devices. These connect with SATA cables to both the power supply and motherboard.
3-12. Finish your computer assembly.
Once you've placed and connected the various internal components for your computer, all that's left to do is ensure that none of the wires interfere with circulation and close up the case.
Many cases will have a panel which either slides back into place or screws onto the side of the case.
4. Powering On Your Computer
4-1. Attach your computer to an outlet.
Using your power source's power cable, plug your computer into a wall outlet or power strip.
You may first have to attach the electrical cable to the power source input on the back of your computer's case.
4-2. Plug a monitor into your computer.
You'll typically use the graphics card output that's near the bottom of the case, though some motherboards may have this port on the right or left side of the case.
The output here is usually a DisplayPort or HDMI port.
4-3. Turn on your computer.
Press the computer's {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/5\/5d\/Windowspower.png","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/5\/5d\/Windowspower.png\/30px-Windowspower.png","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":460,"bigWidth":30,"bigHeight":30,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>I edited this screenshot of a Windows icon.\n<\/p><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Public_domain\">Public Domain<\/a><br>\n<\/p><\/div>"} button on the front or back of the case. If everything's properly connected, your computer should start up.
4-4. Install Windows or Linux.
Windows is compatible basically all PCs and will make full use of their various features (e.g., Bluetooth), but you will have to purchase a copy of Windows if you don't have a product key. Linux is becoming more and more popular, and offers a free alternative to Windows.
If you don't have an installation USB drive, you'll need to create one on another computer before you can install your operating system.
4-5. Install your drivers
Once your operating system is installed, you will need to install your drivers. Almost all of the hardware that you purchased should come with discs that contain the driver software needed for the hardware to work, although it's usually better to search for the relevant drivers online and download those, as the discs are usually old and outdated, by the time you receive them.
Modern versions of Windows and Linux will install most drivers automatically when connected to the Internet.
Tips
Some power supplies have a built in 115/230V converter. If you are in the U.S., use the 115V setting.[15]
X
Research source
Each power supply cable will only fit in the correct orientation, but pressure will still be needed to push the cables in. If using a newer power supply with an 8-pin EPS 12V connector and a PCI Express 8-pin connector, don't attempt to force the cables into place.
If you install a water cooling system instead of a typical fan, you should run a 24-hour test to check for leaks before actually installing it in your computer.
Warnings
Use care when working around the sharp, sheet metal edges of a computer case. It is easy to cut yourself, especially with very small cases.
Avoid electrostatic discharge when installing components. Wear a static wristband or regularly ground yourself by touching a metal part of the case before handling components.
Make sure all parts are compatible with your motherboard!
Don't touch the resistors and the pins on the CPU or the socket.
Be sure to buy a power supply with the specific needs for your system and from a reputable company, as cheaper ones can be faulty and completely damage your system.
Do not buy any computer parts from any untrusted retailer online; you might get scammed, or the computer part may be defective.
Wash your hands before building a computer.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning and Budgeting\\n1-1. Determine your computer's use.\\nBefore you buy any components or establish a budget, you'll need to know what you plan on using the computer for. Standard desktop PCs which are used for things like browsing and minor programs (e.g., Microsoft Word and Excel) can use older, less expensive parts, while gaming- or editing-focused computers will need more powerful, up-to-date parts.\\n1-2. Establish a budget.\\nIt's too easy to start buying attractive parts without sticking to a budget, only to realize that you're out of money and don't have all of the necessary equipment to build your PC. Figure out a soft limit (e.g., $300) and a hard limit (e.g., $400) and try to stay within that range.\\nCommon sense should guide your purchasing as well. For example, if the processor for which you budget is $100 but a nicer, newer model is discounted from $200 to $120 at your local tech store, spending the extra $20 is probably a better long-term investment.\\n1-3. Know which components you need to buy.\\nNo matter how expensive your computer, you will need the following components for your project:\\n\\nProcessor (CPU) — Acts as the \\\"brain\\\" of your computer. In most builds, the CPU is usually the most expensive component.\\nMotherboard — Serves as an interface between all of your computer's components and the processor.\\nRAM — Random Access Memory. More RAM will provide more \\\"workspace\\\" to increase your computer's performance. Think about the RAM as a table: more RAM gives you more room for doing things on that table. Less RAM is like having a smaller table!\\nStorage Drive — Stores data. You can buy a traditional hard disk drive (HDD), or you can opt for a more expensive solid state drive (SSD) if you want an exceptionally fast drive.\\nPower supply — Powers all of your computer's individual components. The power supply is also the interface between your computer and the wall socket into which you plug your computer.\\nCase — Necessary for storing and cooling your components.\\nGraphics card — Used to render images on your computer. While most processors have a built-in graphics processing unit (GPU), you can buy a dedicated graphics card if you plan on gaming or using your computer for intensive editing.\\nCooling system — This includes case fans and coolers for specific parts and keeps the inside of your case at a safe temperature. Only necessary for gaming and editing PCs—regular PCs should be fine with a stock cooler.\\n2. Buying Components\\n2-1. Know where to buy components.\\nIn-store locations such as Best Buy will stock computer components, but you can usually find comparable parts for cheaper if you shop online. Common online locations include Amazon, eBay, and NewEgg.\\nDon't write off used parts, especially if the parts are listed as \\\"Like New\\\" or are in new condition. You can often buy such parts at a heavily discounted price for little to no change in function.\\nWaiting for sales (e.g. Black Friday Sales) can often pay off, as parts can be heavily discounted, allowing you to either save money or opt for better components for the same price.\\nSome online retailers may offer a 'free shipping' deal if you spend a certain amount of money. Consider buying enough parts from those sites to save on shipping, which is often expensive. This doesn't mean you should pay more for components cheaper elsewhere though!\\n2-2. Research every component you intend to purchase.\\nRead magazines and online consumer review sites for more information. Remember, this is one of the most important steps, because everything will depend on your hardware working correctly.\\nA few relevant articles on wikiHow include How to Build a Cheap Gaming Computer, How to Choose Components for Building a Computer, and How to Build a Powerful Quiet Computer.\\nLook for good reviews for your preferred product, both on the site from which you're considering purchasing it and elsewhere. Stay away from marketing graphs or numbers - there is always some trickery to make the numbers seem better than they are. Some reputable hardware reviewers are Linus Tech Tips, Tom's Hardware or Gamers Nexus.\\nOnce you've found a decently reviewed component, look for negative reviews of the component. You may find that the component is great for certain uses, but inappropriate for your own preferences. Many review sites will have filters you can use to exclude good reviews for this purpose.\\n2-3. Find a processor (CPU).\\nThe CPU (central processing unit) is the core of your computer's performance. The higher the processor's speed in gigahertz (GHz), the faster it can process data. Many applications use multiple threads at the same time, so more cores can improve performance.\\nThe processor will usually entail a large part of your budget.\\nProcessors typically come in quad-core, hexa-core or higher. Unless you're building an ultra-high-performance gaming PC, you should stick to around 6 cores.\\nIntel and AMD are two of the main processor manufacturers. Research your specific CPU to find its alternative from the other brand, and read comparisons to find out which one will be better for your specific needs.\\n2-4. Get a motherboard which fits your processor.\\nYou'll want to select a motherboard which is compatible with your processor, which can be accomplished by checking the socket of the CPU and motherboard. Other aspects to look for in a motherboard include the following:\\nOnboard Wi-Fi (ensures that your computer will have wireless capabilities)\\nBluetooth\\nMultiple RAM slots/high RAM capacity\\nSupport for graphics cards if necessary (PCIe x16 slot)\\n2-5. Purchase RAM.\\nRAM is responsible for storing data from running programs, so having enough of it is important. Before buying RAM, be sure to check both your processor and your motherboard for the type of RAM which is supported.\\nThere is a limit to how much RAM your computer can use, and that limit is dictated by your processor's capabilities (typically 128GB), and your applications. If a program stores only 1GB data in the RAM, more RAM won't accelerate the task. 8GB tends to be the standard for RAM capacity, although the increasing needs of more complex programs is pushing this standard towards 16GB, although 8GB is plenty for basic word processing and non-demanding tasks.\\nDepending on your motherboard, you'll usually buy either DDR3 RAM or, more commonly, DDR4 RAM. The type of RAM that is supported by your motherboard will be noted in the motherboard's documentation.\\n2-6. Buy a storage device.\\nComparatively speaking, purchasing a storage device is easy—most drives are compatible with virtually all motherboards and processors, though you may need to make sure the drive you find will fit in your case. For this step, you must choose whether you want a hard disk drive (HDD) or a solid state drive (SSD). SSDs are much faster than traditional HDDs, and contain no moving parts, as well as being a much smaller size. An SSD either comes as a standalone drive (about the size of a credit card) or an M.2 drive, which slots directly into your motherboard. Standalone SSDs and HDDs typically connect to your motherboard via a SATA cable.\\nYour average HDD has a speed of 7200 RPM.\\nHDDs can also use IDE instead of SATA as their connections, but SATA is newer and thus supported on all modern motherboards.\\nThe added benefits of an SSD also come with a higher price tag.\\nMany PC users choose a relatively small capacity (200-500GB) SSD to use as their boot drive (the drive the operating system runs on), and then use a larger (500GB-1TB) HDD for their files. This makes the computer run much faster, as the operating system will benefit from the increased speeds of the SSD.\\n2-7. Purchase a graphics card if necessary.\\nA dedicated graphics card (sometimes called a GPU or video card) is essential for playing the latest games, but not a major issue for a computer you plan on using for daily tasks. If you watch or edit a lot of HD video or play a lot of games, you'll want a dedicated graphics card.\\nAs with any other component, make sure that your graphics card is compatible with your motherboard. However, you are unlikely to get issues.\\nAfter the CPU (or in some cases, before the CPU), the graphics card should be the most expensive component in your PC, depending on what you want to do with it.\\nGraphics cards are also referred to as \\\"video cards\\\" or \\\"GPU\\\".\\n2-8. Make sure your power supply can handle the load.\\nThe power supply powers all of your components in your computer. Some cases come with a power supply already installed, but others require you to provide your own. The power supply should be powerful enough to run all of your components; don't worry about it being so powerful that you waste electricity by powering more than you need, as it will only output as many watts as you use and the number on its wattage is only its max capacity.\\nIt's best to buy more watts than you need, as this will make future component upgrades easier, and switching your PSU out for a higher wattage one is a complex process.\\n2-9. Pick up a case that is both functional and easy on the eyes.\\nThe case is what holds your computer components. A few cases come with a power supply included, but if you are making a gaming build then getting a separate power supply is recommended, as the power supplies that come with cases are usually not very high quality.\\nThe size of the case will be based on how many drives bays and card slots it has, as well as the size and type of your motherboard.\\nBe sure to select a case which can fit all of your components, including your hard drive.\\nCases might obstruct air flow causing some higher-end components with larger power draw to overheat.\\nIf you're looking to save money, this is one area where you can spend a little less and not compromise on performance.\\n3. Assembling the Parts\\n3-1. Ground yourself\\nUse an antistatic wrist-strap cable to prevent electrostatic discharge (ESD) which can be deadly to computer electronics. Alternatively, touch a large metal body like a radiator to discharge yourself.\\n3-2. Open the case.\\nUnscrew the side panel (or slide it toward the back of the case) to do so.\\n3-3. Install the power supply.\\nSome cases come with the power supply already installed, while others will require you to purchase the power supply separately and install it yourself. Make sure that the power supply is installed in the correct orientation, and that nothing is blocking the power supply's fan.\\nThe power supply will usually go near the top or the bottom rear of the case. You can determine where the power supply is supposed to sit by looking for a missing section on the back of the case.\\n3-4. Add components to the motherboard.\\nThis is usually easiest to do before you install the motherboard, as the case can limit your ability to wire components:\\nAttach the processor to the motherboard by finding the processor port on the motherboard's surface. There is a small, golden triangle on the corner of every CPU, which must be matched with a similar triangle on your motherboard.\\nAttach your RAM to the motherboard by finding the RAM slots and inserting the RAM appropriately (they should only fit one way).\\nAttach your power supply to the motherboard's power connectors.\\nLocate (but do not attach) the motherboard's hard drive SATA port. You'll use this to connect the hard drive to the motherboard later.\\n3-5. Apply thermal paste to the processor if necessary.\\nPut a small dot (around the size of a grain of rice or a pea) of thermal paste on the CPU. Adding too much thermal paste will create a mess, such as getting paste into the motherboard socket, which may short circuit components and decrease the motherboard's value if you plan to sell it later.\\n3-6. Attach the CPU cooler.\\nThis varies from cooler to cooler, so read the instructions for your processor.\\nMost stock coolers attach directly over the processor and screw into the motherboard.\\nAftermarket coolers may have brackets that need to be attached underneath the motherboard.\\n3-7. Prepare your case.\\nYou may need to knock the plates out of the back of the case in order to fit your components into the correct positions.\\nIf your case has separate shelving units to hold your hard drive, install the units using the included screws.\\nYou may need to install and wire your case's fans before you can install any components. If so, follow your case's fan installation instructions.\\n3-8. Secure the motherboard.\\nOnce the standoffs are installed, place the motherboard in the case and push it up against the backplate. All of the back ports should fit into the holes in the I/O backplate.\\nUse the screws provided to secure the motherboard to the standoffs through the shielded screw holes on the motherboard.\\n3-9. Plug in the case connectors.\\nThese tend to be located together on the motherboard near the front of the case. The order in which these are connected will depend on which is easiest. Make sure that you connect the USB ports, the Power and Reset switches, the LED power and hard drive lights, and the audio cable. Your motherboard’s documentation will show you where on your motherboard these connectors attach.\\nThere is typically only one way that these connectors can attach to the motherboard. Don’t try to force anything to fit.\\nThe pins of these connectors are often very thin and delicate, so take extreme care not to bend or break any.\\n3-10. Install your storage drive/s.\\nThis process will vary slightly depending on your case, but should typically go as follows:\\nRemove any front panels on the case (if you're installing an optical drive, you will usually install it near the top of the case).\\nInsert the hard drive into its slot (again, usually near the top of the case).\\nTighten any screws needed to hold the drive in place.\\nPlug the drive's SATA cable into the SATA slot on the motherboard.\\nIf you're using an M.2 SSD, you'll need to slot this into the motherboard, and screw it down to the small post on the end opposite to the slot. Many motherboards have heatsinks over M.2 slots, so make sure you remove any plastic backing after installing your drive and replacing the heatsink.\\n3-11. Connect the power supply to any necessary components.\\nIf you haven't already connected the power supply to components which need power, make sure that it is connected to the following locations:\\nMotherboard. This is connected with the largest plug: a (usually) 24 pin connector.\\nGraphics card(s). These draw 75W of power from the PCIe slot on the motherboard, but may require additional power in the form of 6 or 8 pin connectors on the card.\\nStorage devices. These connect with SATA cables to both the power supply and motherboard.\\n3-12. Finish your computer assembly.\\nOnce you've placed and connected the various internal components for your computer, all that's left to do is ensure that none of the wires interfere with circulation and close up the case.\\nMany cases will have a panel which either slides back into place or screws onto the side of the case.\\n4. Powering On Your Computer\\n4-1. Attach your computer to an outlet.\\nUsing your power source's power cable, plug your computer into a wall outlet or power strip.\\nYou may first have to attach the electrical cable to the power source input on the back of your computer's case.\\n4-2. Plug a monitor into your computer.\\nYou'll typically use the graphics card output that's near the bottom of the case, though some motherboards may have this port on the right or left side of the case.\\nThe output here is usually a DisplayPort or HDMI port.\\n4-3. Turn on your computer.\\nPress the computer's {\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/5\\\\/5d\\\\/Windowspower.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/5d\\\\/Windowspower.png\\\\/30px-Windowspower.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":460,\\\"bigWidth\\\":30,\\\"bigHeight\\\":30,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>I edited this screenshot of a Windows icon.\\\\n<\\\\/p><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"http:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Public_domain\\\\\\\">Public Domain<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"} button on the front or back of the case. If everything's properly connected, your computer should start up.\\n4-4. Install Windows or Linux.\\nWindows is compatible basically all PCs and will make full use of their various features (e.g., Bluetooth), but you will have to purchase a copy of Windows if you don't have a product key. Linux is becoming more and more popular, and offers a free alternative to Windows.\\nIf you don't have an installation USB drive, you'll need to create one on another computer before you can install your operating system.\\n4-5. Install your drivers\\nOnce your operating system is installed, you will need to install your drivers. Almost all of the hardware that you purchased should come with discs that contain the driver software needed for the hardware to work, although it's usually better to search for the relevant drivers online and download those, as the discs are usually old and outdated, by the time you receive them.\\nModern versions of Windows and Linux will install most drivers automatically when connected to the Internet.\\nTips\\nSome power supplies have a built in 115/230V converter. If you are in the U.S., use the 115V setting.[15]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nEach power supply cable will only fit in the correct orientation, but pressure will still be needed to push the cables in. If using a newer power supply with an 8-pin EPS 12V connector and a PCI Express 8-pin connector, don't attempt to force the cables into place.\\nIf you install a water cooling system instead of a typical fan, you should run a 24-hour test to check for leaks before actually installing it in your computer.\\nWarnings\\nUse care when working around the sharp, sheet metal edges of a computer case. It is easy to cut yourself, especially with very small cases.\\nAvoid electrostatic discharge when installing components. Wear a static wristband or regularly ground yourself by touching a metal part of the case before handling components.\\nMake sure all parts are compatible with your motherboard!\\nDon't touch the resistors and the pins on the CPU or the socket.\\nBe sure to buy a power supply with the specific needs for your system and from a reputable company, as cheaper ones can be faulty and completely damage your system.\\nDo not buy any computer parts from any untrusted retailer online; you might get scammed, or the computer part may be defective.\\nWash your hands before building a computer.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This wikiHow teaches you how to build a desktop computer using custom parts. Successfully building a computer is largely contingent on defining your computer goals and budget, buying the right parts, and putting everything together in the correct order.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning and Budgeting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine your computer's use.\", \"描述\": \"Before you buy any components or establish a budget, you'll need to know what you plan on using the computer for. Standard desktop PCs which are used for things like browsing and minor programs (e.g., Microsoft Word and Excel) can use older, less expensive parts, while gaming- or editing-focused computers will need more powerful, up-to-date parts.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Establish a budget.\", \"描述\": \"It's too easy to start buying attractive parts without sticking to a budget, only to realize that you're out of money and don't have all of the necessary equipment to build your PC. Figure out a soft limit (e.g., $300) and a hard limit (e.g., $400) and try to stay within that range.\\nCommon sense should guide your purchasing as well. For example, if the processor for which you budget is $100 but a nicer, newer model is discounted from $200 to $120 at your local tech store, spending the extra $20 is probably a better long-term investment.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Know which components you need to buy.\", \"描述\": \"No matter how expensive your computer, you will need the following components for your project:\\n\\nProcessor (CPU) — Acts as the \\\"brain\\\" of your computer. In most builds, the CPU is usually the most expensive component.\\nMotherboard — Serves as an interface between all of your computer's components and the processor.\\nRAM — Random Access Memory. More RAM will provide more \\\"workspace\\\" to increase your computer's performance. Think about the RAM as a table: more RAM gives you more room for doing things on that table. Less RAM is like having a smaller table!\\nStorage Drive — Stores data. You can buy a traditional hard disk drive (HDD), or you can opt for a more expensive solid state drive (SSD) if you want an exceptionally fast drive.\\nPower supply — Powers all of your computer's individual components. The power supply is also the interface between your computer and the wall socket into which you plug your computer.\\nCase — Necessary for storing and cooling your components.\\nGraphics card — Used to render images on your computer. While most processors have a built-in graphics processing unit (GPU), you can buy a dedicated graphics card if you plan on gaming or using your computer for intensive editing.\\nCooling system — This includes case fans and coolers for specific parts and keeps the inside of your case at a safe temperature. Only necessary for gaming and editing PCs—regular PCs should be fine with a stock cooler.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buying Components\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know where to buy components.\", \"描述\": \"In-store locations such as Best Buy will stock computer components, but you can usually find comparable parts for cheaper if you shop online. Common online locations include Amazon, eBay, and NewEgg.\\nDon't write off used parts, especially if the parts are listed as \\\"Like New\\\" or are in new condition. You can often buy such parts at a heavily discounted price for little to no change in function.\\nWaiting for sales (e.g. Black Friday Sales) can often pay off, as parts can be heavily discounted, allowing you to either save money or opt for better components for the same price.\\nSome online retailers may offer a 'free shipping' deal if you spend a certain amount of money. Consider buying enough parts from those sites to save on shipping, which is often expensive. This doesn't mean you should pay more for components cheaper elsewhere though!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Research every component you intend to purchase.\", \"描述\": \"Read magazines and online consumer review sites for more information. Remember, this is one of the most important steps, because everything will depend on your hardware working correctly.\\nA few relevant articles on wikiHow include How to Build a Cheap Gaming Computer, How to Choose Components for Building a Computer, and How to Build a Powerful Quiet Computer.\\nLook for good reviews for your preferred product, both on the site from which you're considering purchasing it and elsewhere. Stay away from marketing graphs or numbers - there is always some trickery to make the numbers seem better than they are. Some reputable hardware reviewers are Linus Tech Tips, Tom's Hardware or Gamers Nexus.\\nOnce you've found a decently reviewed component, look for negative reviews of the component. You may find that the component is great for certain uses, but inappropriate for your own preferences. Many review sites will have filters you can use to exclude good reviews for this purpose.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find a processor (CPU).\", \"描述\": \"The CPU (central processing unit) is the core of your computer's performance. The higher the processor's speed in gigahertz (GHz), the faster it can process data. Many applications use multiple threads at the same time, so more cores can improve performance.\\nThe processor will usually entail a large part of your budget.\\nProcessors typically come in quad-core, hexa-core or higher. Unless you're building an ultra-high-performance gaming PC, you should stick to around 6 cores.\\nIntel and AMD are two of the main processor manufacturers. Research your specific CPU to find its alternative from the other brand, and read comparisons to find out which one will be better for your specific needs.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get a motherboard which fits your processor.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want to select a motherboard which is compatible with your processor, which can be accomplished by checking the socket of the CPU and motherboard. Other aspects to look for in a motherboard include the following:\\nOnboard Wi-Fi (ensures that your computer will have wireless capabilities)\\nBluetooth\\nMultiple RAM slots/high RAM capacity\\nSupport for graphics cards if necessary (PCIe x16 slot)\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Purchase RAM.\", \"描述\": \"RAM is responsible for storing data from running programs, so having enough of it is important. Before buying RAM, be sure to check both your processor and your motherboard for the type of RAM which is supported.\\nThere is a limit to how much RAM your computer can use, and that limit is dictated by your processor's capabilities (typically 128GB), and your applications. If a program stores only 1GB data in the RAM, more RAM won't accelerate the task. 8GB tends to be the standard for RAM capacity, although the increasing needs of more complex programs is pushing this standard towards 16GB, although 8GB is plenty for basic word processing and non-demanding tasks.\\nDepending on your motherboard, you'll usually buy either DDR3 RAM or, more commonly, DDR4 RAM. The type of RAM that is supported by your motherboard will be noted in the motherboard's documentation.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Buy a storage device.\", \"描述\": \"Comparatively speaking, purchasing a storage device is easy—most drives are compatible with virtually all motherboards and processors, though you may need to make sure the drive you find will fit in your case. For this step, you must choose whether you want a hard disk drive (HDD) or a solid state drive (SSD). SSDs are much faster than traditional HDDs, and contain no moving parts, as well as being a much smaller size. An SSD either comes as a standalone drive (about the size of a credit card) or an M.2 drive, which slots directly into your motherboard. Standalone SSDs and HDDs typically connect to your motherboard via a SATA cable.\\nYour average HDD has a speed of 7200 RPM.\\nHDDs can also use IDE instead of SATA as their connections, but SATA is newer and thus supported on all modern motherboards.\\nThe added benefits of an SSD also come with a higher price tag.\\nMany PC users choose a relatively small capacity (200-500GB) SSD to use as their boot drive (the drive the operating system runs on), and then use a larger (500GB-1TB) HDD for their files. This makes the computer run much faster, as the operating system will benefit from the increased speeds of the SSD.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Purchase a graphics card if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"A dedicated graphics card (sometimes called a GPU or video card) is essential for playing the latest games, but not a major issue for a computer you plan on using for daily tasks. If you watch or edit a lot of HD video or play a lot of games, you'll want a dedicated graphics card.\\nAs with any other component, make sure that your graphics card is compatible with your motherboard. However, you are unlikely to get issues.\\nAfter the CPU (or in some cases, before the CPU), the graphics card should be the most expensive component in your PC, depending on what you want to do with it.\\nGraphics cards are also referred to as \\\"video cards\\\" or \\\"GPU\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Make sure your power supply can handle the load.\", \"描述\": \"The power supply powers all of your components in your computer. Some cases come with a power supply already installed, but others require you to provide your own. The power supply should be powerful enough to run all of your components; don't worry about it being so powerful that you waste electricity by powering more than you need, as it will only output as many watts as you use and the number on its wattage is only its max capacity.\\nIt's best to buy more watts than you need, as this will make future component upgrades easier, and switching your PSU out for a higher wattage one is a complex process.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Pick up a case that is both functional and easy on the eyes.\", \"描述\": \"The case is what holds your computer components. A few cases come with a power supply included, but if you are making a gaming build then getting a separate power supply is recommended, as the power supplies that come with cases are usually not very high quality.\\nThe size of the case will be based on how many drives bays and card slots it has, as well as the size and type of your motherboard.\\nBe sure to select a case which can fit all of your components, including your hard drive.\\nCases might obstruct air flow causing some higher-end components with larger power draw to overheat.\\nIf you're looking to save money, this is one area where you can spend a little less and not compromise on performance.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Parts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ground yourself\", \"描述\": \"Use an antistatic wrist-strap cable to prevent electrostatic discharge (ESD) which can be deadly to computer electronics. Alternatively, touch a large metal body like a radiator to discharge yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Open the case.\", \"描述\": \"Unscrew the side panel (or slide it toward the back of the case) to do so.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the power supply.\", \"描述\": \"Some cases come with the power supply already installed, while others will require you to purchase the power supply separately and install it yourself. Make sure that the power supply is installed in the correct orientation, and that nothing is blocking the power supply's fan.\\nThe power supply will usually go near the top or the bottom rear of the case. You can determine where the power supply is supposed to sit by looking for a missing section on the back of the case.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add components to the motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"This is usually easiest to do before you install the motherboard, as the case can limit your ability to wire components:\\nAttach the processor to the motherboard by finding the processor port on the motherboard's surface. There is a small, golden triangle on the corner of every CPU, which must be matched with a similar triangle on your motherboard.\\nAttach your RAM to the motherboard by finding the RAM slots and inserting the RAM appropriately (they should only fit one way).\\nAttach your power supply to the motherboard's power connectors.\\nLocate (but do not attach) the motherboard's hard drive SATA port. You'll use this to connect the hard drive to the motherboard later.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Apply thermal paste to the processor if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Put a small dot (around the size of a grain of rice or a pea) of thermal paste on the CPU. Adding too much thermal paste will create a mess, such as getting paste into the motherboard socket, which may short circuit components and decrease the motherboard's value if you plan to sell it later.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the CPU cooler.\", \"描述\": \"This varies from cooler to cooler, so read the instructions for your processor.\\nMost stock coolers attach directly over the processor and screw into the motherboard.\\nAftermarket coolers may have brackets that need to be attached underneath the motherboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Prepare your case.\", \"描述\": \"You may need to knock the plates out of the back of the case in order to fit your components into the correct positions.\\nIf your case has separate shelving units to hold your hard drive, install the units using the included screws.\\nYou may need to install and wire your case's fans before you can install any components. If so, follow your case's fan installation instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Secure the motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"Once the standoffs are installed, place the motherboard in the case and push it up against the backplate. All of the back ports should fit into the holes in the I/O backplate.\\nUse the screws provided to secure the motherboard to the standoffs through the shielded screw holes on the motherboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Plug in the case connectors.\", \"描述\": \"These tend to be located together on the motherboard near the front of the case. The order in which these are connected will depend on which is easiest. Make sure that you connect the USB ports, the Power and Reset switches, the LED power and hard drive lights, and the audio cable. Your motherboard’s documentation will show you where on your motherboard these connectors attach.\\nThere is typically only one way that these connectors can attach to the motherboard. Don’t try to force anything to fit.\\nThe pins of these connectors are often very thin and delicate, so take extreme care not to bend or break any.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Install your storage drive/s.\", \"描述\": \"This process will vary slightly depending on your case, but should typically go as follows:\\nRemove any front panels on the case (if you're installing an optical drive, you will usually install it near the top of the case).\\nInsert the hard drive into its slot (again, usually near the top of the case).\\nTighten any screws needed to hold the drive in place.\\nPlug the drive's SATA cable into the SATA slot on the motherboard.\\nIf you're using an M.2 SSD, you'll need to slot this into the motherboard, and screw it down to the small post on the end opposite to the slot. Many motherboards have heatsinks over M.2 slots, so make sure you remove any plastic backing after installing your drive and replacing the heatsink.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Connect the power supply to any necessary components.\", \"描述\": \"If you haven't already connected the power supply to components which need power, make sure that it is connected to the following locations:\\nMotherboard. This is connected with the largest plug: a (usually) 24 pin connector.\\nGraphics card(s). These draw 75W of power from the PCIe slot on the motherboard, but may require additional power in the form of 6 or 8 pin connectors on the card.\\nStorage devices. These connect with SATA cables to both the power supply and motherboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Finish your computer assembly.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've placed and connected the various internal components for your computer, all that's left to do is ensure that none of the wires interfere with circulation and close up the case.\\nMany cases will have a panel which either slides back into place or screws onto the side of the case.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Powering On Your Computer\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach your computer to an outlet.\", \"描述\": \"Using your power source's power cable, plug your computer into a wall outlet or power strip.\\nYou may first have to attach the electrical cable to the power source input on the back of your computer's case.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plug a monitor into your computer.\", \"描述\": \"You'll typically use the graphics card output that's near the bottom of the case, though some motherboards may have this port on the right or left side of the case.\\nThe output here is usually a DisplayPort or HDMI port.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Turn on your computer.\", \"描述\": \"Press the computer's {\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/5\\\\/5d\\\\/Windowspower.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/5d\\\\/Windowspower.png\\\\/30px-Windowspower.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":460,\\\"bigWidth\\\":30,\\\"bigHeight\\\":30,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>I edited this screenshot of a Windows icon.\\\\n<\\\\/p><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"http:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Public_domain\\\\\\\">Public Domain<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"} button on the front or back of the case. If everything's properly connected, your computer should start up.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install Windows or Linux.\", \"描述\": \"Windows is compatible basically all PCs and will make full use of their various features (e.g., Bluetooth), but you will have to purchase a copy of Windows if you don't have a product key. Linux is becoming more and more popular, and offers a free alternative to Windows.\\nIf you don't have an installation USB drive, you'll need to create one on another computer before you can install your operating system.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install your drivers\", \"描述\": \"Once your operating system is installed, you will need to install your drivers. Almost all of the hardware that you purchased should come with discs that contain the driver software needed for the hardware to work, although it's usually better to search for the relevant drivers online and download those, as the discs are usually old and outdated, by the time you receive them.\\nModern versions of Windows and Linux will install most drivers automatically when connected to the Internet.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Some power supplies have a built in 115/230V converter. If you are in the U.S., use the 115V setting.[15]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Each power supply cable will only fit in the correct orientation, but pressure will still be needed to push the cables in. If using a newer power supply with an 8-pin EPS 12V connector and a PCI Express 8-pin connector, don't attempt to force the cables into place.\\n\", \"If you install a water cooling system instead of a typical fan, you should run a 24-hour test to check for leaks before actually installing it in your computer.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Use care when working around the sharp, sheet metal edges of a computer case. It is easy to cut yourself, especially with very small cases.\\n\", \"Avoid electrostatic discharge when installing components. Wear a static wristband or regularly ground yourself by touching a metal part of the case before handling components.\\n\", \"Make sure all parts are compatible with your motherboard!\\n\", \"Don't touch the resistors and the pins on the CPU or the socket.\\n\", \"Be sure to buy a power supply with the specific needs for your system and from a reputable company, as cheaper ones can be faulty and completely damage your system.\\n\", \"Do not buy any computer parts from any untrusted retailer online; you might get scammed, or the computer part may be defective.\\n\", \"Wash your hands before building a computer.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,285 |
How to Build a Computer Lab
|
1. Designing the Lab Space
1-1. Identify the room for the computer lab.
The first step in building a computer lab is knowing where it is going to be set up. You want to choose a room that has plenty of evenly spaced outlets and enough space to fit the number of computers you want to have in the lab.
Rooms that are square or rectangular will work better than rooms that have sharp angles or strange shapes.
1-2. Determine the needs of the computer lab.
Identify the purpose of your computer lab so that you will have an idea of the type of equipment you will need. Is it a lab that people will use for advanced digital design or programming requiring substantial computing power? Or is it just a general school lab with computers that just need to be able to run basic programs such as Word and PowerPoint?
The needs of your lab will help you identify the type of equipment that you will need to provide.
You will also need to consider the purchase of printers, scanners, projectors, and internet modems/wireless routers. At least one printer and internet access are two essential items for the lab.
1-3. Identify how many computers are needed.
Along with determining the needs of your lab, you will need to identify the exact number of computers you will have available. If you know how many students will be using the lab at any given time, you will have an idea of how many computers you need. The number of computers you will have is also dependent upon the size of the room.
If you want users to have access to higher-end computers, but have a limited budget, consider getting a small number of advanced computers and a larger number of mid-range computers.
1-4. Evaluate furniture needs and options.
The height of the desks that the computers are placed on is very important. The ideal desk height is one that allows users to type on the keyboard with their arms parallel to the desk. Try to obtain furniture that fits the needs of the users you are designing the lab for.
Chairs with adjustable heights are the best option for a computer lab so that all users can be comfortable while working.
The top of the computer screen should be about level with the user’s eyes.
1-5. Choose a seating layout.
There are a few configurations available depending on the use of the computer lab. If it will be a teaching space, you will probably arrange the computers differently than if the lab is just a free workspace at a library. Consider the following layouts to decide what will work best for your needs:
Theatre style: This consists of rows of computers all facing one wall. It is good for teaching, but not good for student interaction or collaboration.
Up against the wall: All computers are facing the wall of the room. Good for seeing what everyone is doing on their screen and students have to turn away from computers to face you while giving instructions. Not an efficient use of space.
Rounds: Grouping computers together in round tables of four each. This configuration is great for group work and collaboration, but not good for teaching.
U-shape: Computers are arranged in a U-shape with everyone facing towards the center. It’s easy to see and hear everyone in this configuration, but it requires more space.
1-6. Identify available power sources.
All of these computers are going to need to be plugged in. Use surge protectors to keep the computers from being damaged during power outages. They also increase the number of available outlets allowing you to plug in multiple computers into one surge protector.
A power strip is not the same as a surge protector. Power strips just increase the number of available outlets, but do not protect against power spikes.
You may need to use extension cords attached to surge protectors to get every computer plugged in. This may also affect the layout of your computer lab.
Keep in mind the presence of all of the wires and possible trip hazards when thinking about the layout of the computer lab.
2. Obtaining the Computers
2-1. Call local businesses for donations.
If you are building a computer lab on a budget, it is a good idea to start by calling local businesses to see if they have old computers. When companies update their computer systems they are usually willing to donate their old computers to a good cause.
To encourage donations, let companies know that they can use their contribution as a tax deduction.
2-2. Ask friends and family for old computers.
Similar to asking businesses, you can also go directly to friends and family. Many people just store the old computers in the basement when they buy new ones. These old computers can be repurposed for your computer lab.
Your friends will probably be happy to get rid of those old computers.
2-3. Purchase new computers.
If you have a bigger budget, you can purchase new computers. You should be able to negotiate a good deal because you will be buying the computers in bulk. You probably don’t need a top-of-the-line computer, but a mid-range high-performance computer would be appropriate.
Shop around a few different places to get the best deal.
Remember to get a compatible keyboard, mouse, and monitor for each computer.
2-4. Reset old computers to factory settings.
Before using old computers for your lab, you need to reset them to factory settings. This will improve their performance and erase all information that may have been left on them.
Resetting the computers will depend on the type of computer you have. A quick online search of the computer should yield the proper procedure.
2-5. Choose an operating system to use.
The type of computer purchased for the lab will affect the type of operating system used. Linux is an open-source free operating system that is a great option for a budget computer lab. Other operating systems include Microsoft Windows and Apple OS X.
There are many classes available to take on the use of any of these operating systems. Whole communities of people will be willing to help you get started with whichever one you choose.
3. Building the Lab
3-1. Assemble and arrange the furniture.
Once you have all of the components purchased, you can start building the computer lab. Assemble all of the furniture and place it around the room in the configuration you decide on earlier.
Use caution when assembling all of the desks and furniture.
3-2. Set up the computers.
Arrange all of the computers on top of the desks. Attach all of the monitors, keyboards, and computer mice. Plug everything into the electrical outlets. Turn on the computers and make sure everything is hooked up properly.
Assign each computer a number so they can easily be kept track of.
3-3. Network the computers together.
Getting all of the computers on the same network allows you access information saved to the network on any linked computer. This is good in case your normal computer is taken or damaged.
The network will also incorporate internet access to all of the computers.
3-4. Prevent trip hazards.
Using floor cord covers over exposed cables are an easy way to prevent users from tripping. Covers are inexpensive and easy to install. Use Velcro ties to organize cords together and secure them out of the way.
Cable clips are also a good way to keep cables from becoming unruly hazards.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing the Lab Space\\n1-1. Identify the room for the computer lab.\\nThe first step in building a computer lab is knowing where it is going to be set up. You want to choose a room that has plenty of evenly spaced outlets and enough space to fit the number of computers you want to have in the lab.\\nRooms that are square or rectangular will work better than rooms that have sharp angles or strange shapes.\\n1-2. Determine the needs of the computer lab.\\nIdentify the purpose of your computer lab so that you will have an idea of the type of equipment you will need. Is it a lab that people will use for advanced digital design or programming requiring substantial computing power? Or is it just a general school lab with computers that just need to be able to run basic programs such as Word and PowerPoint?\\nThe needs of your lab will help you identify the type of equipment that you will need to provide.\\nYou will also need to consider the purchase of printers, scanners, projectors, and internet modems/wireless routers. At least one printer and internet access are two essential items for the lab.\\n1-3. Identify how many computers are needed.\\nAlong with determining the needs of your lab, you will need to identify the exact number of computers you will have available. If you know how many students will be using the lab at any given time, you will have an idea of how many computers you need. The number of computers you will have is also dependent upon the size of the room.\\nIf you want users to have access to higher-end computers, but have a limited budget, consider getting a small number of advanced computers and a larger number of mid-range computers.\\n1-4. Evaluate furniture needs and options.\\nThe height of the desks that the computers are placed on is very important. The ideal desk height is one that allows users to type on the keyboard with their arms parallel to the desk. Try to obtain furniture that fits the needs of the users you are designing the lab for.\\nChairs with adjustable heights are the best option for a computer lab so that all users can be comfortable while working.\\nThe top of the computer screen should be about level with the user’s eyes.\\n1-5. Choose a seating layout.\\nThere are a few configurations available depending on the use of the computer lab. If it will be a teaching space, you will probably arrange the computers differently than if the lab is just a free workspace at a library. Consider the following layouts to decide what will work best for your needs:\\nTheatre style: This consists of rows of computers all facing one wall. It is good for teaching, but not good for student interaction or collaboration.\\nUp against the wall: All computers are facing the wall of the room. Good for seeing what everyone is doing on their screen and students have to turn away from computers to face you while giving instructions. Not an efficient use of space.\\nRounds: Grouping computers together in round tables of four each. This configuration is great for group work and collaboration, but not good for teaching.\\nU-shape: Computers are arranged in a U-shape with everyone facing towards the center. It’s easy to see and hear everyone in this configuration, but it requires more space.\\n1-6. Identify available power sources.\\nAll of these computers are going to need to be plugged in. Use surge protectors to keep the computers from being damaged during power outages. They also increase the number of available outlets allowing you to plug in multiple computers into one surge protector.\\nA power strip is not the same as a surge protector. Power strips just increase the number of available outlets, but do not protect against power spikes.\\nYou may need to use extension cords attached to surge protectors to get every computer plugged in. This may also affect the layout of your computer lab.\\nKeep in mind the presence of all of the wires and possible trip hazards when thinking about the layout of the computer lab.\\n2. Obtaining the Computers\\n2-1. Call local businesses for donations.\\nIf you are building a computer lab on a budget, it is a good idea to start by calling local businesses to see if they have old computers. When companies update their computer systems they are usually willing to donate their old computers to a good cause.\\nTo encourage donations, let companies know that they can use their contribution as a tax deduction.\\n2-2. Ask friends and family for old computers.\\nSimilar to asking businesses, you can also go directly to friends and family. Many people just store the old computers in the basement when they buy new ones. These old computers can be repurposed for your computer lab.\\nYour friends will probably be happy to get rid of those old computers.\\n2-3. Purchase new computers.\\nIf you have a bigger budget, you can purchase new computers. You should be able to negotiate a good deal because you will be buying the computers in bulk. You probably don’t need a top-of-the-line computer, but a mid-range high-performance computer would be appropriate. \\nShop around a few different places to get the best deal.\\nRemember to get a compatible keyboard, mouse, and monitor for each computer.\\n2-4. Reset old computers to factory settings.\\nBefore using old computers for your lab, you need to reset them to factory settings. This will improve their performance and erase all information that may have been left on them.\\nResetting the computers will depend on the type of computer you have. A quick online search of the computer should yield the proper procedure.\\n2-5. Choose an operating system to use.\\nThe type of computer purchased for the lab will affect the type of operating system used. Linux is an open-source free operating system that is a great option for a budget computer lab. Other operating systems include Microsoft Windows and Apple OS X.\\nThere are many classes available to take on the use of any of these operating systems. Whole communities of people will be willing to help you get started with whichever one you choose.\\n3. Building the Lab\\n3-1. Assemble and arrange the furniture.\\nOnce you have all of the components purchased, you can start building the computer lab. Assemble all of the furniture and place it around the room in the configuration you decide on earlier.\\nUse caution when assembling all of the desks and furniture.\\n3-2. Set up the computers.\\nArrange all of the computers on top of the desks. Attach all of the monitors, keyboards, and computer mice. Plug everything into the electrical outlets. Turn on the computers and make sure everything is hooked up properly.\\nAssign each computer a number so they can easily be kept track of.\\n3-3. Network the computers together.\\nGetting all of the computers on the same network allows you access information saved to the network on any linked computer. This is good in case your normal computer is taken or damaged. \\nThe network will also incorporate internet access to all of the computers.\\n3-4. Prevent trip hazards.\\nUsing floor cord covers over exposed cables are an easy way to prevent users from tripping. Covers are inexpensive and easy to install. Use Velcro ties to organize cords together and secure them out of the way.\\nCable clips are also a good way to keep cables from becoming unruly hazards.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a computer lab takes time and effort, but is not very difficult once you have everything in one place. With a little work, you can build a low-cost computer lab out of old donated computers. Once you have determined the ideal arrangement of your computer lab, building the lab is just a matter of setting everything up.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing the Lab Space\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Identify the room for the computer lab.\", \"描述\": \"The first step in building a computer lab is knowing where it is going to be set up. You want to choose a room that has plenty of evenly spaced outlets and enough space to fit the number of computers you want to have in the lab.\\nRooms that are square or rectangular will work better than rooms that have sharp angles or strange shapes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine the needs of the computer lab.\", \"描述\": \"Identify the purpose of your computer lab so that you will have an idea of the type of equipment you will need. Is it a lab that people will use for advanced digital design or programming requiring substantial computing power? Or is it just a general school lab with computers that just need to be able to run basic programs such as Word and PowerPoint?\\nThe needs of your lab will help you identify the type of equipment that you will need to provide.\\nYou will also need to consider the purchase of printers, scanners, projectors, and internet modems/wireless routers. At least one printer and internet access are two essential items for the lab.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Identify how many computers are needed.\", \"描述\": \"Along with determining the needs of your lab, you will need to identify the exact number of computers you will have available. If you know how many students will be using the lab at any given time, you will have an idea of how many computers you need. The number of computers you will have is also dependent upon the size of the room.\\nIf you want users to have access to higher-end computers, but have a limited budget, consider getting a small number of advanced computers and a larger number of mid-range computers.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Evaluate furniture needs and options.\", \"描述\": \"The height of the desks that the computers are placed on is very important. The ideal desk height is one that allows users to type on the keyboard with their arms parallel to the desk. Try to obtain furniture that fits the needs of the users you are designing the lab for.\\nChairs with adjustable heights are the best option for a computer lab so that all users can be comfortable while working.\\nThe top of the computer screen should be about level with the user’s eyes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose a seating layout.\", \"描述\": \"There are a few configurations available depending on the use of the computer lab. If it will be a teaching space, you will probably arrange the computers differently than if the lab is just a free workspace at a library. Consider the following layouts to decide what will work best for your needs:\\nTheatre style: This consists of rows of computers all facing one wall. It is good for teaching, but not good for student interaction or collaboration.\\nUp against the wall: All computers are facing the wall of the room. Good for seeing what everyone is doing on their screen and students have to turn away from computers to face you while giving instructions. Not an efficient use of space.\\nRounds: Grouping computers together in round tables of four each. This configuration is great for group work and collaboration, but not good for teaching.\\nU-shape: Computers are arranged in a U-shape with everyone facing towards the center. It’s easy to see and hear everyone in this configuration, but it requires more space.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Identify available power sources.\", \"描述\": \"All of these computers are going to need to be plugged in. Use surge protectors to keep the computers from being damaged during power outages. They also increase the number of available outlets allowing you to plug in multiple computers into one surge protector.\\nA power strip is not the same as a surge protector. Power strips just increase the number of available outlets, but do not protect against power spikes.\\nYou may need to use extension cords attached to surge protectors to get every computer plugged in. This may also affect the layout of your computer lab.\\nKeep in mind the presence of all of the wires and possible trip hazards when thinking about the layout of the computer lab.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Obtaining the Computers\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Call local businesses for donations.\", \"描述\": \"If you are building a computer lab on a budget, it is a good idea to start by calling local businesses to see if they have old computers. When companies update their computer systems they are usually willing to donate their old computers to a good cause.\\nTo encourage donations, let companies know that they can use their contribution as a tax deduction.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ask friends and family for old computers.\", \"描述\": \"Similar to asking businesses, you can also go directly to friends and family. Many people just store the old computers in the basement when they buy new ones. These old computers can be repurposed for your computer lab.\\nYour friends will probably be happy to get rid of those old computers.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase new computers.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a bigger budget, you can purchase new computers. You should be able to negotiate a good deal because you will be buying the computers in bulk. You probably don’t need a top-of-the-line computer, but a mid-range high-performance computer would be appropriate. \\nShop around a few different places to get the best deal.\\nRemember to get a compatible keyboard, mouse, and monitor for each computer.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Reset old computers to factory settings.\", \"描述\": \"Before using old computers for your lab, you need to reset them to factory settings. This will improve their performance and erase all information that may have been left on them.\\nResetting the computers will depend on the type of computer you have. A quick online search of the computer should yield the proper procedure.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose an operating system to use.\", \"描述\": \"The type of computer purchased for the lab will affect the type of operating system used. Linux is an open-source free operating system that is a great option for a budget computer lab. Other operating systems include Microsoft Windows and Apple OS X.\\nThere are many classes available to take on the use of any of these operating systems. Whole communities of people will be willing to help you get started with whichever one you choose.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Lab\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble and arrange the furniture.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have all of the components purchased, you can start building the computer lab. Assemble all of the furniture and place it around the room in the configuration you decide on earlier.\\nUse caution when assembling all of the desks and furniture.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set up the computers.\", \"描述\": \"Arrange all of the computers on top of the desks. Attach all of the monitors, keyboards, and computer mice. Plug everything into the electrical outlets. Turn on the computers and make sure everything is hooked up properly.\\nAssign each computer a number so they can easily be kept track of.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Network the computers together.\", \"描述\": \"Getting all of the computers on the same network allows you access information saved to the network on any linked computer. This is good in case your normal computer is taken or damaged. \\nThe network will also incorporate internet access to all of the computers.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Prevent trip hazards.\", \"描述\": \"Using floor cord covers over exposed cables are an easy way to prevent users from tripping. Covers are inexpensive and easy to install. Use Velcro ties to organize cords together and secure them out of the way.\\nCable clips are also a good way to keep cables from becoming unruly hazards.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,286 |
How to Build a Concrete Base in Preparation for a Garage
|
1. Site Preparation
1-1. In order to make the shuttering easier and to ensure consistent thickness, prepare the ground and get it as flat as possible.
1-2. Assess the firmness of the ground.
If the ground is too soft, use hardcore to firm up.
1-3. If you have soft ground, consider using a steel mesh to reinforce the concrete.
1-4. Install a damp proof membrane if the site where you are erecting the base is prone to damp.
Make sure the membrane is added to the whole of the base to avoid cracking.
1-5. If you are installing the base adjacent to a wall, use damp proof between the concrete and the wall, otherwise damp may transfer.
2. The Shuttering
2-1. Set up your shuttering at least one or two days prior to pouring the concrete.
2-2. Make sure the shuttering is securely pinned in place with time stakes.
2-3. Walk on your shuttering and make sure it is absolutely solid, and doesn’t move.
2-4. Use a strong timber that will remain straight and not bow.
2-5. Ensure the height of the shuttering has been measured in accordance with your chosen concrete thickness.
2-6. Check that the shuttering is completely flat, level, square and over sized – about 150mm longer and wider to allow for any discrepancies.
2-7. Make a removable door within the shuttering, so that you can get access to the area with your wheelbarrow holding the concrete.
2-8. "The concrete pour"
2-9. Before you order the concrete, make sure your site is fully prepared.
2-10. Ensure you have a rake, tamp, shovel, float, spirit level, gloves, wellington boots, hose pipe and wheelbarrow ready to use.
2-11. Order the exact amount of premixed concrete to be delivered.
Ask for a wet mix which will give you a little more time to spread the concrete.
2-12. Where possible, have the concrete poured directly into the base.
If this is not possible, have it poured directly into the wheelbarrow.
2-13. Use the rake to get the concrete as level as possible.
2-14. Use the hose pipe to clean off any concrete spillages before it dries.
2-15. Smooth the concrete with a ‘straight edged’ tamp that is just wider than the concrete base.
Guide the tam across the shuttering to remove any excess concrete.
2-16. Once the concrete is spread, re-insert the shuttering.
2-17. Smooth the outer edge of the concrete with a float (around 250mm).
2-18. Leave the shuttering in place for a few days before removing.
2-19. Allow the concrete to set for at least a week before installing your concrete garage.
2-20. If rain looks likely, cover the base with plastic sheeting.
2-21. "Important"
2-22. Don’t wash concrete down the drains as it will settle, causing the drain to block.
2-23. Laying a base is much easier when done in two’s.
inches from the base of the the concrete
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Site Preparation\\n1-1. In order to make the shuttering easier and to ensure consistent thickness, prepare the ground and get it as flat as possible.\\n\\n1-2. Assess the firmness of the ground.\\nIf the ground is too soft, use hardcore to firm up.\\n1-3. If you have soft ground, consider using a steel mesh to reinforce the concrete.\\n\\n1-4. Install a damp proof membrane if the site where you are erecting the base is prone to damp.\\nMake sure the membrane is added to the whole of the base to avoid cracking.\\n1-5. If you are installing the base adjacent to a wall, use damp proof between the concrete and the wall, otherwise damp may transfer.\\n\\n2. The Shuttering\\n2-1. Set up your shuttering at least one or two days prior to pouring the concrete.\\n\\n2-2. Make sure the shuttering is securely pinned in place with time stakes.\\n\\n2-3. Walk on your shuttering and make sure it is absolutely solid, and doesn’t move.\\n\\n2-4. Use a strong timber that will remain straight and not bow.\\n\\n2-5. Ensure the height of the shuttering has been measured in accordance with your chosen concrete thickness.\\n\\n2-6. Check that the shuttering is completely flat, level, square and over sized – about 150mm longer and wider to allow for any discrepancies.\\n\\n2-7. Make a removable door within the shuttering, so that you can get access to the area with your wheelbarrow holding the concrete.\\n\\n2-8. \\\"The concrete pour\\\"\\n\\n\\n2-9. Before you order the concrete, make sure your site is fully prepared.\\n\\n2-10. Ensure you have a rake, tamp, shovel, float, spirit level, gloves, wellington boots, hose pipe and wheelbarrow ready to use.\\n\\n2-11. Order the exact amount of premixed concrete to be delivered.\\nAsk for a wet mix which will give you a little more time to spread the concrete.\\n2-12. Where possible, have the concrete poured directly into the base.\\nIf this is not possible, have it poured directly into the wheelbarrow.\\n2-13. Use the rake to get the concrete as level as possible.\\n\\n2-14. Use the hose pipe to clean off any concrete spillages before it dries.\\n\\n2-15. Smooth the concrete with a ‘straight edged’ tamp that is just wider than the concrete base.\\nGuide the tam across the shuttering to remove any excess concrete.\\n2-16. Once the concrete is spread, re-insert the shuttering.\\n\\n2-17. Smooth the outer edge of the concrete with a float (around 250mm).\\n\\n2-18. Leave the shuttering in place for a few days before removing.\\n\\n2-19. Allow the concrete to set for at least a week before installing your concrete garage.\\n\\n2-20. If rain looks likely, cover the base with plastic sheeting.\\n\\n2-21. \\\"Important\\\"\\n\\n\\n2-22. Don’t wash concrete down the drains as it will settle, causing the drain to block.\\n\\n2-23. Laying a base is much easier when done in two’s.\\ninches from the base of the the concrete\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Before buying a concrete garage it is extremely important to lay a solid concrete base. This will ensure that the garage remains structurally sound, and avoid the garage door opening mechanism failing.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Site Preparation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"In order to make the shuttering easier and to ensure consistent thickness, prepare the ground and get it as flat as possible.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assess the firmness of the ground.\", \"描述\": \"If the ground is too soft, use hardcore to firm up.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"If you have soft ground, consider using a steel mesh to reinforce the concrete.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install a damp proof membrane if the site where you are erecting the base is prone to damp.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the membrane is added to the whole of the base to avoid cracking.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"If you are installing the base adjacent to a wall, use damp proof between the concrete and the wall, otherwise damp may transfer.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"The Shuttering\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set up your shuttering at least one or two days prior to pouring the concrete.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure the shuttering is securely pinned in place with time stakes.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Walk on your shuttering and make sure it is absolutely solid, and doesn’t move.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use a strong timber that will remain straight and not bow.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Ensure the height of the shuttering has been measured in accordance with your chosen concrete thickness.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Check that the shuttering is completely flat, level, square and over sized – about 150mm longer and wider to allow for any discrepancies.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make a removable door within the shuttering, so that you can get access to the area with your wheelbarrow holding the concrete.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"\\\"The concrete pour\\\"\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Before you order the concrete, make sure your site is fully prepared.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Ensure you have a rake, tamp, shovel, float, spirit level, gloves, wellington boots, hose pipe and wheelbarrow ready to use.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Order the exact amount of premixed concrete to be delivered.\", \"描述\": \"Ask for a wet mix which will give you a little more time to spread the concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Where possible, have the concrete poured directly into the base.\", \"描述\": \"If this is not possible, have it poured directly into the wheelbarrow.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Use the rake to get the concrete as level as possible.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Use the hose pipe to clean off any concrete spillages before it dries.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Smooth the concrete with a ‘straight edged’ tamp that is just wider than the concrete base.\", \"描述\": \"Guide the tam across the shuttering to remove any excess concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Once the concrete is spread, re-insert the shuttering.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Smooth the outer edge of the concrete with a float (around 250mm).\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Leave the shuttering in place for a few days before removing.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"Allow the concrete to set for at least a week before installing your concrete garage.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 20, \"标题\": \"If rain looks likely, cover the base with plastic sheeting.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 21, \"标题\": \"\\\"Important\\\"\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 22, \"标题\": \"Don’t wash concrete down the drains as it will settle, causing the drain to block.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 23, \"标题\": \"Laying a base is much easier when done in two’s.\", \"描述\": \"inches from the base of the the concrete\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,287 |
How to Build a Concrete Driveway
|
1. Making a Plan
1-1. Check local ordinances to know if you need a permit.
Depending on where you live, you may need to get a permit before you can get started building your new concrete driveway. In some states, the height of the driveway above even ground and the width of the driveway you plan to make it may each determine whether or not you need to pull a permit.
If your neighborhood has a homeowner’s association, they may also have rules about how and where you install your driveway.
You can usually find permit applications on your city’s website.
1-2. Plan your driveway’s size, shape and route.
Draw out the basic outline of your driveway. You will want to consider the overall length and width, as well as where you’ll park your vehicles and whether or not you’ll need space to turn around. In general, it’s recommended that you allow at least 18 feet (5.5 m) to 20 feet (6.1 m) for a car and 22 feet (6.7 m) to 24 feet (7.3 m) for vans or trucks.
A single vehicle needs a width of 10 feet (3.0 m) to 12 feet (3.7 m).
Remember, every foot you add to the length of width of the driveway increases the expense significantly.
You’ll be able to use the drawing to determine how much material you need to purchase.
1-3. Determine how much concrete you’ll need.
Concrete is sold in cubic yards, so you’ll need to convert your measurements to feet for this calculation if they’re not already. To determine how many cubic yards of concrete you’ll need, multiply the length of your driveway by the width, then multiply that number by .35 (which is 4 inches (10 cm) in terms of feet). Take that final figure and divide it by 27, which is the number of cubic feet in one cubic yard.
Multiply the length by the width and depth, then divide that figure by 27. Your answer will be how much concrete to order (in cubic yards).
You may want to increase your order by about 10% to allow for spillages and mistakes.
1-4. Decide on your forms and reinforcement materials.
You will need wood to build your forms and stakes to reinforce them, all of which needs to be accounted for in your budget. Pine board that measures 1 inch (2.5 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm) is usually sufficient for laying a driveway, as well as a number of 4 inches (10 cm) stakes.
Your pine board will need to be long enough to enclose the entire driveway as you pour the concrete.
1-5. Do a cost estimate using your concrete order and other supplies.
Be sure to include the cost of any equipment you will rent for grading or finishing, and the cost of labor if you intend to hire workers to help with the project.
Other materials to account for in your estimate include gravel for the base, fabric underlayment, installation labor, delivery charges, sleeving materials, rebar or mesh wire, and any equipment fees.
You may also need to account for the cost of the permit.
1-6. Add sand or clay to firm up the soil.
You’ll need a firm, solid base to support the weight of your concrete. If the base soil is sandy and loose, you can add clay to firm it up. If the soil is too loamy, add sand or gravel to make it level. Whether you add material or not, you should compact the soil to make it firm and even.
You can create a base using gravel or crushed rock, filling soft spots with extra material.
Vibratory plate compactors and rammers can be used to compact and flatten the soil and gravel you lay down.
2. Preparing the Driveway for Concrete
2-1. Lay out the shape of your driveway with stakes.
You can do this by driving small wooden or metal stakes at points where the drive will egress the street, then at the top of the driveway, then tying builder's line on them, to help you visualize the path of the driveway.
Check frequently to ensure your layout matches the driveway plan you developed.
Be sure the length and width are correct, otherwise you may end up over or under ordering the concrete.
2-2. Install the forms for your driveway.
Typically, these will be 1 inch (2.5 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm) pieces of nominal lumber, anchored with wooden stakes sufficiently to support the form boards. These stakes are driven into the soil with a sledgehammer at a spacing to keep the form boards 'on grade and straightly aligned. For curving drives, Masonite or plywood that is strong enough to support the concrete load, but flexible enough to bend.
Using screws and a power drill will make it easy to assemble and then disassemble your forms when you’re done.
Place your stakes every 3 feet (0.91 m) or so to make sure the form holds.
2-3. Excavate the soil away and backfill with roadbase beneath.
Roadbase is a nonspecific compound made of mixed crushed granite and gravel. It stabilizes the ground before you pour concrete. It's not always necessary, but does stabilize your driveway.
The layer should be about five inches thick when compacted before your pour the concrete.
2-4. Use fill material to make sure your base is thick enough.
Usually driveways are at least 4 inches (10 cm) thick; for heavier vehicles or difficult to stabilize soil conditions, thicker concrete is suggested. Grading is done by placing a straightedge or tying a string across the top of your forms and measuring down to the soil, to the correct depth. When you spot areas that aren’t even with the rest, add material or remove it to make the grade even.
Add gravel or crushed rock to places that aren’t as high as the rest.
2-5. Compact the fill material and soil with a plate compactor.
Compactor tools can be rented from a local tool rental establishment, or if there is none available, you can use a hand tamp, from your local hardware store. The important thing is that the compaction of the soil is what will support the weight of the concrete, as well as the subsequent load of vehicles using the drive, so it’s important to have compacted, stable fill material.
Adding a little water as you compact the material can make the process more effective.
You may need to use more fill material on looser soil to keep it even.
2-6. Add reinforcing steel to the concrete if you choose.
This can be a mat of steel reinforcing bars tied in place, typically number 4 rebar on 12 inch (30.5 cm) centers, or 6X6 welded wire reinforcing wire fabric, available at building supply stores. Another option is to have polypropylene fiber reinforcing added to the concrete mixture at the concrete plant.
Adding a steel reinforcement will significantly increase the strength of your driveway and is highly recommended.
The steel will help the concrete support and distribute the weight of your vehicles.
Rebar or heavy-duty mesh ensures the concrete will remain structurally intact.
3. Pouring and Curing the Concrete
3-1. Pour the concrete from the truck or wheelbarrow.
You’ll need to be able to pour the concrete fairly quickly, and wheel barrowing the concrete the length of a substantial driveway is labor-intensive. If you cannot get the concrete trucks in a position to pour their payload directly into your forms, consider hiring a concrete pumping contractor to place the material for you.
You can also rent a piece of equipment with a front bucket, such as a skid steer, tractor, or a mechanical-engine powered wheelbarrow to make the job easier.
For smaller driveways, a wheelbarrow will likely suffice.
3-2. Flatten and level
You will want to get the surface as flat (note, this does not mean level) as possible to avoid bird baths, or standing water, on it. The driveway may slope, but should still be flat.
Not all driveways are level, but the surface should be fairly flat.
You can use a hand trowel to make the surface evenly flat.
3-3. Put in contraction joints about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep.
Concrete will contract as it dries, which can result in cracking. Avoid this by using wood or plastic “zip strips” to add 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep “cracks” or cuts in the concrete every 4 feet (1.2 m) or so.
If you let the concrete dry too much, you may need to use a specialized saw to cut contraction joints in, so it’s best to do it early.
Make sure you separate the contraction joints by the same distance to keep the driveway looking uniform.
3-4. Use a brook or sack to add texture to the concrete.
Perfectly smooth concrete may make it difficult for your vehicle to get traction, especially in wet conditions. Drag a broom or a burlap sack along the concrete as its drying to create a textured surface your tires can grip.
This step must be done while the concrete is still damp enough to accept the texture.
Broom the concrete in the direction you want your driveway to drain if there is a slope.
3-5. Cure the concrete
This is done by creating a moisture retaining barrier on the concrete's surface, either with a layer of plastic sheeting or by applying a chemical curing compound to prevent the concrete from drying out too quickly.
You should protect your concrete drive from extreme weather conditions for at least 3-7 days.
Do not park your vehicle on the driveway until it has cured.
3-6. Park your car on your new driveway.
The first time you park your vehicle on the driveway, lookout for signs of cracking or crumbling. If some cracks do appear, you may be able to repair them. You can then remove the wooden framing you built for the pour.
Be sure the concrete is completely cured before parking a vehicle on it, otherwise you may damage the concrete.
To be safe, wait a minimum of three days for the concrete to cure.
Tips
Select the location of your driveway carefully, considering future plans for any additions to your home or other building projects that it may interfere with.
Consider alternative materials for your drive, such as brick, compacted crushed rock, or concrete pavers.
Use caution when allowing concrete delivery trucks on to your property. Concrete trucks often weigh in excess of 65,000 lbs. In areas with soft or even slightly damp soil these heavy trucks will often leave deep tire ruts in the turf that are hard to repair (due to the soil compression). It is often better when pouring a driveway to have the truck drive on the freshly laid and compacted gravel base layer. Use caution when allowing heavy vehicles over curbs as they can crush the edges of existing curbs and roadways.
Warnings
Concrete can be difficult to grade, level, and finish. Failure to complete the finishing work will result in less than desirable results.
Wear and use proper personal protective equipment during all phases of work. Concrete can cause severe burns and contact dermatitis. Avoid contact with the skin, especially kneeling in the concrete, or getting it into boots. Thoroughly wash any affected area immediately. In case of contact with eyes, irrigate thoroughly and seek medical attention immediately. Burns can appear after several hours and may not appear straightaway.
Concrete is an extremely heavy material which can weigh more than 140 lbs per cubic foot. Shoveling, lifting, raking, or carrying concrete in buckets may cause severe muscle strain in your back, arms, or legs.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Plan\\n1-1. Check local ordinances to know if you need a permit.\\nDepending on where you live, you may need to get a permit before you can get started building your new concrete driveway. In some states, the height of the driveway above even ground and the width of the driveway you plan to make it may each determine whether or not you need to pull a permit.\\nIf your neighborhood has a homeowner’s association, they may also have rules about how and where you install your driveway.\\nYou can usually find permit applications on your city’s website.\\n1-2. Plan your driveway’s size, shape and route.\\nDraw out the basic outline of your driveway. You will want to consider the overall length and width, as well as where you’ll park your vehicles and whether or not you’ll need space to turn around. In general, it’s recommended that you allow at least 18 feet (5.5 m) to 20 feet (6.1 m) for a car and 22 feet (6.7 m) to 24 feet (7.3 m) for vans or trucks.\\nA single vehicle needs a width of 10 feet (3.0 m) to 12 feet (3.7 m).\\nRemember, every foot you add to the length of width of the driveway increases the expense significantly.\\nYou’ll be able to use the drawing to determine how much material you need to purchase.\\n1-3. Determine how much concrete you’ll need.\\nConcrete is sold in cubic yards, so you’ll need to convert your measurements to feet for this calculation if they’re not already. To determine how many cubic yards of concrete you’ll need, multiply the length of your driveway by the width, then multiply that number by .35 (which is 4 inches (10 cm) in terms of feet). Take that final figure and divide it by 27, which is the number of cubic feet in one cubic yard.\\nMultiply the length by the width and depth, then divide that figure by 27. Your answer will be how much concrete to order (in cubic yards).\\nYou may want to increase your order by about 10% to allow for spillages and mistakes.\\n1-4. Decide on your forms and reinforcement materials.\\nYou will need wood to build your forms and stakes to reinforce them, all of which needs to be accounted for in your budget. Pine board that measures 1 inch (2.5 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm) is usually sufficient for laying a driveway, as well as a number of 4 inches (10 cm) stakes.\\nYour pine board will need to be long enough to enclose the entire driveway as you pour the concrete.\\n1-5. Do a cost estimate using your concrete order and other supplies.\\nBe sure to include the cost of any equipment you will rent for grading or finishing, and the cost of labor if you intend to hire workers to help with the project.\\nOther materials to account for in your estimate include gravel for the base, fabric underlayment, installation labor, delivery charges, sleeving materials, rebar or mesh wire, and any equipment fees.\\nYou may also need to account for the cost of the permit.\\n1-6. Add sand or clay to firm up the soil.\\nYou’ll need a firm, solid base to support the weight of your concrete. If the base soil is sandy and loose, you can add clay to firm it up. If the soil is too loamy, add sand or gravel to make it level. Whether you add material or not, you should compact the soil to make it firm and even.\\nYou can create a base using gravel or crushed rock, filling soft spots with extra material.\\nVibratory plate compactors and rammers can be used to compact and flatten the soil and gravel you lay down.\\n2. Preparing the Driveway for Concrete\\n2-1. Lay out the shape of your driveway with stakes.\\nYou can do this by driving small wooden or metal stakes at points where the drive will egress the street, then at the top of the driveway, then tying builder's line on them, to help you visualize the path of the driveway.\\nCheck frequently to ensure your layout matches the driveway plan you developed.\\nBe sure the length and width are correct, otherwise you may end up over or under ordering the concrete.\\n2-2. Install the forms for your driveway.\\nTypically, these will be 1 inch (2.5 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm) pieces of nominal lumber, anchored with wooden stakes sufficiently to support the form boards. These stakes are driven into the soil with a sledgehammer at a spacing to keep the form boards 'on grade and straightly aligned. For curving drives, Masonite or plywood that is strong enough to support the concrete load, but flexible enough to bend.\\nUsing screws and a power drill will make it easy to assemble and then disassemble your forms when you’re done.\\nPlace your stakes every 3 feet (0.91 m) or so to make sure the form holds.\\n2-3. Excavate the soil away and backfill with roadbase beneath.\\nRoadbase is a nonspecific compound made of mixed crushed granite and gravel. It stabilizes the ground before you pour concrete. It's not always necessary, but does stabilize your driveway.\\nThe layer should be about five inches thick when compacted before your pour the concrete.\\n2-4. Use fill material to make sure your base is thick enough.\\nUsually driveways are at least 4 inches (10 cm) thick; for heavier vehicles or difficult to stabilize soil conditions, thicker concrete is suggested. Grading is done by placing a straightedge or tying a string across the top of your forms and measuring down to the soil, to the correct depth. When you spot areas that aren’t even with the rest, add material or remove it to make the grade even.\\nAdd gravel or crushed rock to places that aren’t as high as the rest.\\n2-5. Compact the fill material and soil with a plate compactor.\\nCompactor tools can be rented from a local tool rental establishment, or if there is none available, you can use a hand tamp, from your local hardware store. The important thing is that the compaction of the soil is what will support the weight of the concrete, as well as the subsequent load of vehicles using the drive, so it’s important to have compacted, stable fill material.\\nAdding a little water as you compact the material can make the process more effective.\\nYou may need to use more fill material on looser soil to keep it even.\\n2-6. Add reinforcing steel to the concrete if you choose.\\nThis can be a mat of steel reinforcing bars tied in place, typically number 4 rebar on 12 inch (30.5 cm) centers, or 6X6 welded wire reinforcing wire fabric, available at building supply stores. Another option is to have polypropylene fiber reinforcing added to the concrete mixture at the concrete plant.\\nAdding a steel reinforcement will significantly increase the strength of your driveway and is highly recommended.\\nThe steel will help the concrete support and distribute the weight of your vehicles.\\nRebar or heavy-duty mesh ensures the concrete will remain structurally intact.\\n3. Pouring and Curing the Concrete\\n3-1. Pour the concrete from the truck or wheelbarrow.\\nYou’ll need to be able to pour the concrete fairly quickly, and wheel barrowing the concrete the length of a substantial driveway is labor-intensive. If you cannot get the concrete trucks in a position to pour their payload directly into your forms, consider hiring a concrete pumping contractor to place the material for you.\\nYou can also rent a piece of equipment with a front bucket, such as a skid steer, tractor, or a mechanical-engine powered wheelbarrow to make the job easier.\\nFor smaller driveways, a wheelbarrow will likely suffice.\\n3-2. Flatten and level\\nYou will want to get the surface as flat (note, this does not mean level) as possible to avoid bird baths, or standing water, on it. The driveway may slope, but should still be flat.\\nNot all driveways are level, but the surface should be fairly flat.\\nYou can use a hand trowel to make the surface evenly flat.\\n3-3. Put in contraction joints about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep.\\nConcrete will contract as it dries, which can result in cracking. Avoid this by using wood or plastic “zip strips” to add 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep “cracks” or cuts in the concrete every 4 feet (1.2 m) or so.\\nIf you let the concrete dry too much, you may need to use a specialized saw to cut contraction joints in, so it’s best to do it early.\\nMake sure you separate the contraction joints by the same distance to keep the driveway looking uniform.\\n3-4. Use a brook or sack to add texture to the concrete.\\nPerfectly smooth concrete may make it difficult for your vehicle to get traction, especially in wet conditions. Drag a broom or a burlap sack along the concrete as its drying to create a textured surface your tires can grip.\\nThis step must be done while the concrete is still damp enough to accept the texture.\\nBroom the concrete in the direction you want your driveway to drain if there is a slope.\\n3-5. Cure the concrete\\nThis is done by creating a moisture retaining barrier on the concrete's surface, either with a layer of plastic sheeting or by applying a chemical curing compound to prevent the concrete from drying out too quickly.\\nYou should protect your concrete drive from extreme weather conditions for at least 3-7 days.\\nDo not park your vehicle on the driveway until it has cured.\\n3-6. Park your car on your new driveway.\\nThe first time you park your vehicle on the driveway, lookout for signs of cracking or crumbling. If some cracks do appear, you may be able to repair them. You can then remove the wooden framing you built for the pour.\\nBe sure the concrete is completely cured before parking a vehicle on it, otherwise you may damage the concrete.\\nTo be safe, wait a minimum of three days for the concrete to cure.\\nTips\\nSelect the location of your driveway carefully, considering future plans for any additions to your home or other building projects that it may interfere with.\\nConsider alternative materials for your drive, such as brick, compacted crushed rock, or concrete pavers.\\nUse caution when allowing concrete delivery trucks on to your property. Concrete trucks often weigh in excess of 65,000 lbs. In areas with soft or even slightly damp soil these heavy trucks will often leave deep tire ruts in the turf that are hard to repair (due to the soil compression). It is often better when pouring a driveway to have the truck drive on the freshly laid and compacted gravel base layer. Use caution when allowing heavy vehicles over curbs as they can crush the edges of existing curbs and roadways.\\nWarnings\\nConcrete can be difficult to grade, level, and finish. Failure to complete the finishing work will result in less than desirable results.\\nWear and use proper personal protective equipment during all phases of work. Concrete can cause severe burns and contact dermatitis. Avoid contact with the skin, especially kneeling in the concrete, or getting it into boots. Thoroughly wash any affected area immediately. In case of contact with eyes, irrigate thoroughly and seek medical attention immediately. Burns can appear after several hours and may not appear straightaway.\\nConcrete is an extremely heavy material which can weigh more than 140 lbs per cubic foot. Shoveling, lifting, raking, or carrying concrete in buckets may cause severe muscle strain in your back, arms, or legs.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Concrete driveways are permanent, low maintenance additions to your home that can improve its appearance, give kids a safe place to ride scooters, decrease erosion, and make keeping your car clean easier. Building one can be labor-intensive and costly, but for folks that aren’t afraid to tackle big jobs, building your own driveway can be a rewarding project, just as long as you keep some safety rules in mind.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Plan\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check local ordinances to know if you need a permit.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on where you live, you may need to get a permit before you can get started building your new concrete driveway. In some states, the height of the driveway above even ground and the width of the driveway you plan to make it may each determine whether or not you need to pull a permit.\\nIf your neighborhood has a homeowner’s association, they may also have rules about how and where you install your driveway.\\nYou can usually find permit applications on your city’s website.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan your driveway’s size, shape and route.\", \"描述\": \"Draw out the basic outline of your driveway. You will want to consider the overall length and width, as well as where you’ll park your vehicles and whether or not you’ll need space to turn around. In general, it’s recommended that you allow at least 18 feet (5.5 m) to 20 feet (6.1 m) for a car and 22 feet (6.7 m) to 24 feet (7.3 m) for vans or trucks.\\nA single vehicle needs a width of 10 feet (3.0 m) to 12 feet (3.7 m).\\nRemember, every foot you add to the length of width of the driveway increases the expense significantly.\\nYou’ll be able to use the drawing to determine how much material you need to purchase.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Determine how much concrete you’ll need.\", \"描述\": \"Concrete is sold in cubic yards, so you’ll need to convert your measurements to feet for this calculation if they’re not already. To determine how many cubic yards of concrete you’ll need, multiply the length of your driveway by the width, then multiply that number by .35 (which is 4 inches (10 cm) in terms of feet). Take that final figure and divide it by 27, which is the number of cubic feet in one cubic yard.\\nMultiply the length by the width and depth, then divide that figure by 27. Your answer will be how much concrete to order (in cubic yards).\\nYou may want to increase your order by about 10% to allow for spillages and mistakes.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decide on your forms and reinforcement materials.\", \"描述\": \"You will need wood to build your forms and stakes to reinforce them, all of which needs to be accounted for in your budget. Pine board that measures 1 inch (2.5 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm) is usually sufficient for laying a driveway, as well as a number of 4 inches (10 cm) stakes.\\nYour pine board will need to be long enough to enclose the entire driveway as you pour the concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Do a cost estimate using your concrete order and other supplies.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to include the cost of any equipment you will rent for grading or finishing, and the cost of labor if you intend to hire workers to help with the project.\\nOther materials to account for in your estimate include gravel for the base, fabric underlayment, installation labor, delivery charges, sleeving materials, rebar or mesh wire, and any equipment fees.\\nYou may also need to account for the cost of the permit.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add sand or clay to firm up the soil.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need a firm, solid base to support the weight of your concrete. If the base soil is sandy and loose, you can add clay to firm it up. If the soil is too loamy, add sand or gravel to make it level. Whether you add material or not, you should compact the soil to make it firm and even.\\nYou can create a base using gravel or crushed rock, filling soft spots with extra material.\\nVibratory plate compactors and rammers can be used to compact and flatten the soil and gravel you lay down.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Driveway for Concrete\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out the shape of your driveway with stakes.\", \"描述\": \"You can do this by driving small wooden or metal stakes at points where the drive will egress the street, then at the top of the driveway, then tying builder's line on them, to help you visualize the path of the driveway.\\nCheck frequently to ensure your layout matches the driveway plan you developed.\\nBe sure the length and width are correct, otherwise you may end up over or under ordering the concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install the forms for your driveway.\", \"描述\": \"Typically, these will be 1 inch (2.5 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm) pieces of nominal lumber, anchored with wooden stakes sufficiently to support the form boards. These stakes are driven into the soil with a sledgehammer at a spacing to keep the form boards 'on grade and straightly aligned. For curving drives, Masonite or plywood that is strong enough to support the concrete load, but flexible enough to bend.\\nUsing screws and a power drill will make it easy to assemble and then disassemble your forms when you’re done.\\nPlace your stakes every 3 feet (0.91 m) or so to make sure the form holds.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Excavate the soil away and backfill with roadbase beneath.\", \"描述\": \"Roadbase is a nonspecific compound made of mixed crushed granite and gravel. It stabilizes the ground before you pour concrete. It's not always necessary, but does stabilize your driveway.\\nThe layer should be about five inches thick when compacted before your pour the concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use fill material to make sure your base is thick enough.\", \"描述\": \"Usually driveways are at least 4 inches (10 cm) thick; for heavier vehicles or difficult to stabilize soil conditions, thicker concrete is suggested. Grading is done by placing a straightedge or tying a string across the top of your forms and measuring down to the soil, to the correct depth. When you spot areas that aren’t even with the rest, add material or remove it to make the grade even.\\nAdd gravel or crushed rock to places that aren’t as high as the rest.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Compact the fill material and soil with a plate compactor.\", \"描述\": \"Compactor tools can be rented from a local tool rental establishment, or if there is none available, you can use a hand tamp, from your local hardware store. The important thing is that the compaction of the soil is what will support the weight of the concrete, as well as the subsequent load of vehicles using the drive, so it’s important to have compacted, stable fill material.\\nAdding a little water as you compact the material can make the process more effective.\\nYou may need to use more fill material on looser soil to keep it even.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add reinforcing steel to the concrete if you choose.\", \"描述\": \"This can be a mat of steel reinforcing bars tied in place, typically number 4 rebar on 12 inch (30.5 cm) centers, or 6X6 welded wire reinforcing wire fabric, available at building supply stores. Another option is to have polypropylene fiber reinforcing added to the concrete mixture at the concrete plant.\\nAdding a steel reinforcement will significantly increase the strength of your driveway and is highly recommended.\\nThe steel will help the concrete support and distribute the weight of your vehicles.\\nRebar or heavy-duty mesh ensures the concrete will remain structurally intact.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pouring and Curing the Concrete\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pour the concrete from the truck or wheelbarrow.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need to be able to pour the concrete fairly quickly, and wheel barrowing the concrete the length of a substantial driveway is labor-intensive. If you cannot get the concrete trucks in a position to pour their payload directly into your forms, consider hiring a concrete pumping contractor to place the material for you.\\nYou can also rent a piece of equipment with a front bucket, such as a skid steer, tractor, or a mechanical-engine powered wheelbarrow to make the job easier.\\nFor smaller driveways, a wheelbarrow will likely suffice.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Flatten and level\", \"描述\": \"You will want to get the surface as flat (note, this does not mean level) as possible to avoid bird baths, or standing water, on it. The driveway may slope, but should still be flat.\\nNot all driveways are level, but the surface should be fairly flat.\\nYou can use a hand trowel to make the surface evenly flat.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put in contraction joints about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep.\", \"描述\": \"Concrete will contract as it dries, which can result in cracking. Avoid this by using wood or plastic “zip strips” to add 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep “cracks” or cuts in the concrete every 4 feet (1.2 m) or so.\\nIf you let the concrete dry too much, you may need to use a specialized saw to cut contraction joints in, so it’s best to do it early.\\nMake sure you separate the contraction joints by the same distance to keep the driveway looking uniform.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use a brook or sack to add texture to the concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Perfectly smooth concrete may make it difficult for your vehicle to get traction, especially in wet conditions. Drag a broom or a burlap sack along the concrete as its drying to create a textured surface your tires can grip.\\nThis step must be done while the concrete is still damp enough to accept the texture.\\nBroom the concrete in the direction you want your driveway to drain if there is a slope.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cure the concrete\", \"描述\": \"This is done by creating a moisture retaining barrier on the concrete's surface, either with a layer of plastic sheeting or by applying a chemical curing compound to prevent the concrete from drying out too quickly.\\nYou should protect your concrete drive from extreme weather conditions for at least 3-7 days.\\nDo not park your vehicle on the driveway until it has cured.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Park your car on your new driveway.\", \"描述\": \"The first time you park your vehicle on the driveway, lookout for signs of cracking or crumbling. If some cracks do appear, you may be able to repair them. You can then remove the wooden framing you built for the pour.\\nBe sure the concrete is completely cured before parking a vehicle on it, otherwise you may damage the concrete.\\nTo be safe, wait a minimum of three days for the concrete to cure.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Select the location of your driveway carefully, considering future plans for any additions to your home or other building projects that it may interfere with.\\n\", \"Consider alternative materials for your drive, such as brick, compacted crushed rock, or concrete pavers.\\n\", \"Use caution when allowing concrete delivery trucks on to your property. Concrete trucks often weigh in excess of 65,000 lbs. In areas with soft or even slightly damp soil these heavy trucks will often leave deep tire ruts in the turf that are hard to repair (due to the soil compression). It is often better when pouring a driveway to have the truck drive on the freshly laid and compacted gravel base layer. Use caution when allowing heavy vehicles over curbs as they can crush the edges of existing curbs and roadways.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Concrete can be difficult to grade, level, and finish. Failure to complete the finishing work will result in less than desirable results.\\n\", \"Wear and use proper personal protective equipment during all phases of work. Concrete can cause severe burns and contact dermatitis. Avoid contact with the skin, especially kneeling in the concrete, or getting it into boots. Thoroughly wash any affected area immediately. In case of contact with eyes, irrigate thoroughly and seek medical attention immediately. Burns can appear after several hours and may not appear straightaway.\\n\", \"Concrete is an extremely heavy material which can weigh more than 140 lbs per cubic foot. Shoveling, lifting, raking, or carrying concrete in buckets may cause severe muscle strain in your back, arms, or legs.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,288 |
How to Build a Concrete Foundation
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1. Steps
1-1. Choose the type of foundation to build.
The type of foundation depends on the area of the foundation will be located on and the type of structure that will be placed on it.
Shallow foundations are built on level ground and hard surfaces. Shallow foundations are no more than 3 feet (0.91 m) (91.44 cm) deep and are used primarily for smaller, simpler projects like holding patio furniture, a fountain, or an air conditioning unit.
Deep foundations are used for more complex projects. Deep foundations are also used when soil conditions are poor or when building a structure on a hill. Deep foundations are more than 3 feet (0.91 m) (91.44 cm) deep and can have varying depths throughout. This type of foundation is suited for a shed or a detached garage.
1-2. Set your footings 2 feet (0.61 m) (60.96 cm) across.
Add 2 feet (0.61 m) (60.96 cm) on either side. This properly spaces the form work and allows you the space you need to lay your foundation.
1-3. Align the 2 inch wide by 10 inch long (5.08 cm wide by 25.4 cm long) boards to build the forms for your footings.
Situate and lay down the boards in the planned foundation shape and size.
1-4. Square and level the form.
Adjustments to the form can not be made after the concrete is poured. Because concrete is very heavy, be extra sure your formwork is strong and firmly in place.
1-5. Make your concrete.
Dump the dry cement into the wheelbarrow.
Add the water very slowly. Stir constantly.
Stir the mixture thoroughly. Mix in just enough water so your cement is chunky. Don't let the mixture get too soupy.
Remember to wear safety glasses, gloves, and a mask when mixing concrete.
1-6. Make your concrete foundation.
Pour your ready concrete into your form.
Use your trowel to level it off and smooth it over.
Make grooves with your trowel if you want a non-slippery surface.
1-7. Finish your concrete.
Let the concrete dry.
Remove the forms after the concrete thoroughly dries. This will take at least 24 hours.
Keep the concrete wet to avoid cracking if it's hot outside. Soak it with a hose at least twice daily, three times if it is very hot outside.
Cover the pad if it looks like rain. Rain can cause depressions in the concrete and cause your foundation to be uneven.
Tips
Be sure and clean all your tools right after using them. Hardened concrete is difficult to remove and can damage your tools.[13]
X
Expert Source
Gerber Ortiz-VegaMasonry Specialist
Expert Interview. 10 March 2020.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Choose the type of foundation to build.\\nThe type of foundation depends on the area of the foundation will be located on and the type of structure that will be placed on it.\\nShallow foundations are built on level ground and hard surfaces. Shallow foundations are no more than 3 feet (0.91 m) (91.44 cm) deep and are used primarily for smaller, simpler projects like holding patio furniture, a fountain, or an air conditioning unit.\\nDeep foundations are used for more complex projects. Deep foundations are also used when soil conditions are poor or when building a structure on a hill. Deep foundations are more than 3 feet (0.91 m) (91.44 cm) deep and can have varying depths throughout. This type of foundation is suited for a shed or a detached garage.\\n1-2. Set your footings 2 feet (0.61 m) (60.96 cm) across.\\nAdd 2 feet (0.61 m) (60.96 cm) on either side. This properly spaces the form work and allows you the space you need to lay your foundation.\\n1-3. Align the 2 inch wide by 10 inch long (5.08 cm wide by 25.4 cm long) boards to build the forms for your footings.\\nSituate and lay down the boards in the planned foundation shape and size.\\n1-4. Square and level the form.\\nAdjustments to the form can not be made after the concrete is poured. Because concrete is very heavy, be extra sure your formwork is strong and firmly in place.\\n1-5. Make your concrete.\\nDump the dry cement into the wheelbarrow.\\nAdd the water very slowly. Stir constantly.\\nStir the mixture thoroughly. Mix in just enough water so your cement is chunky. Don't let the mixture get too soupy.\\nRemember to wear safety glasses, gloves, and a mask when mixing concrete.\\n1-6. Make your concrete foundation.\\nPour your ready concrete into your form.\\nUse your trowel to level it off and smooth it over.\\nMake grooves with your trowel if you want a non-slippery surface.\\n1-7. Finish your concrete.\\nLet the concrete dry.\\nRemove the forms after the concrete thoroughly dries. This will take at least 24 hours.\\nKeep the concrete wet to avoid cracking if it's hot outside. Soak it with a hose at least twice daily, three times if it is very hot outside.\\nCover the pad if it looks like rain. Rain can cause depressions in the concrete and cause your foundation to be uneven.\\nTips\\nBe sure and clean all your tools right after using them. Hardened concrete is difficult to remove and can damage your tools.[13]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nGerber Ortiz-VegaMasonry Specialist\\nExpert Interview. 10 March 2020.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A concrete foundation is a base for a structure. The type and size of concrete foundation you will need is based on the structure you will place upon it. You may need a concrete foundation for a fountain, or your patio furniture, or even for an air conditioner unit.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the type of foundation to build.\", \"描述\": \"The type of foundation depends on the area of the foundation will be located on and the type of structure that will be placed on it.\\nShallow foundations are built on level ground and hard surfaces. Shallow foundations are no more than 3 feet (0.91 m) (91.44 cm) deep and are used primarily for smaller, simpler projects like holding patio furniture, a fountain, or an air conditioning unit.\\nDeep foundations are used for more complex projects. Deep foundations are also used when soil conditions are poor or when building a structure on a hill. Deep foundations are more than 3 feet (0.91 m) (91.44 cm) deep and can have varying depths throughout. This type of foundation is suited for a shed or a detached garage.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set your footings 2 feet (0.61 m) (60.96 cm) across.\", \"描述\": \"Add 2 feet (0.61 m) (60.96 cm) on either side. This properly spaces the form work and allows you the space you need to lay your foundation.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Align the 2 inch wide by 10 inch long (5.08 cm wide by 25.4 cm long) boards to build the forms for your footings.\", \"描述\": \"Situate and lay down the boards in the planned foundation shape and size.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Square and level the form.\", \"描述\": \"Adjustments to the form can not be made after the concrete is poured. Because concrete is very heavy, be extra sure your formwork is strong and firmly in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make your concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Dump the dry cement into the wheelbarrow.\\nAdd the water very slowly. Stir constantly.\\nStir the mixture thoroughly. Mix in just enough water so your cement is chunky. Don't let the mixture get too soupy.\\nRemember to wear safety glasses, gloves, and a mask when mixing concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make your concrete foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Pour your ready concrete into your form.\\nUse your trowel to level it off and smooth it over.\\nMake grooves with your trowel if you want a non-slippery surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Finish your concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Let the concrete dry.\\nRemove the forms after the concrete thoroughly dries. This will take at least 24 hours.\\nKeep the concrete wet to avoid cracking if it's hot outside. Soak it with a hose at least twice daily, three times if it is very hot outside.\\nCover the pad if it looks like rain. Rain can cause depressions in the concrete and cause your foundation to be uneven.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Be sure and clean all your tools right after using them. Hardened concrete is difficult to remove and can damage your tools.[13]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nGerber Ortiz-VegaMasonry Specialist\\nExpert Interview. 10 March 2020.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,289 |
How to Build a Concrete Pond
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1. Excavating the Pond
1-1. Clear the area where your pond will go.
Remove any rocks and debris with a wheelbarrow. Completely uproot any trees or bushes that are near where the sides of the pond will be so that the roots won’t grow through the sides of the pond.
You should check the construction plans for your house or contact the civil authorities to make sure there are no utility lines in the area where you want your pond.
The ideal spot for a pond is on level land and away from trees or bushes.
1-2. Make an outline of the shape of the pond with marking paint or a rope.
Mark the outline with a spray can or squeeze bottle of marking paint. Use a rope or cord of some kind to outline the pond if you don’t have marking paint.
The size of your pond is completely up to you, just keep in mind that the bigger it is, the more work it will be to excavate and pour the concrete.
If you have rocky soil, the excavation can be a little tough. You may need to use a jackhammer or hire a crew to excavate the soil for you.
If you plan to swim, then a pond that is 25–30 ft (7.6–9.1 m) long by 10 ft (3.0 m) wide is a suitable size, although smaller ponds work as well if you just want something to plunge in.
A fish pond, such as a koi pond, should be about 12 ft (3.7 m) by 10 ft (3.0 m) to hold up to 10 adult fish.
1-3. Dig the pond out with a shovel or a front-end loader to the desired depth.
You will be able to excavate small-scale ponds using a wheelbarrow and a shovel. Hire a tractor driver with a front-end loader to excavate the pond if it is too large for you to excavate by hand.
5 ft (1.5 m) is a good depth if you are planning on swimming in your pond and want to be able to jump in.
A good size for a pond that you could dig out yourself would be 5 ft (1.5 m) by 8 ft (2.4 m), and 2 ft (0.61 m) deep.
1-4. Slope the sides at a 45-degree angle.
Use a shovel or front-end loader to dig out the sides until they are at approximately a 45-degree angle. This angle will make it easiest to cover the sides in concrete.
Make sure to remove any loose dirt from the bottom of the pool and pack down the soil with your shovel or front-end loader when you are finished excavating and sloping the sides.
1-5. Dig a spillway 4–6 in (10–15 cm) below the ponds lowest edge.
Find which way the pond naturally slopes. Use a shovel to dig a channel 4–6 in (10–15 cm) deep, 6–8 in (15–20 cm) wide, and at least 2 ft (0.61 m) long leading away from the side of the pond.
Place a level around the sides to find the biggest slope if it is not obvious to the eye.
Dig the channel towards a garden or plants to use water that drains from your pond to irrigate your property.
You can line the earthen channel with river rocks to add visual appeal and so that you can walk over it.
2. Pouring the Concrete
2-1. Line the pond with heavy-gauge polythene sheet.
Use a plastic liner that is 0.75 mm (0.029 in) to 1.00 mm (0.039 in) thick. Cover the entire sides and base of the pond with the liner.
Double the depth of your pond and add this number to the length and width of the pond to determine the length and width of liner that you need.
For example, if your pond is 10 ft (3.0 m) by 10 ft (3.0 m), and 2 ft (0.61 m) deep, then you need a piece of plastic that is 14 ft (4.3 m) by 14 ft (4.3 m).
The plastic will act as a moisture barrier, as well as provide something for the concrete to grab onto.
2-2. Mix concrete in an electric mixer following the concrete package’s instructions.
Turn on your electric mixer and pour in the correct ratio of concrete to water. Wait until it is thoroughly mixed and there are no dry spots to start pouring it.
You can use an online concrete calculator to enter the dimensions of your pond and the thickness of the concrete you want to pour to determine how many bags of concrete you will need to complete the project.
The type of electric concrete mixer to use is a small drum on wheels that tilts back and forth on an axis. When you plug it in and turn it on, the drum rotates to mix the concrete together.
If you don’t have an electric mixer, or your pond is very small and you don’t need a lot of concrete, then you can mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow with a shovel.
2-3. Cover the sides and base with 4 in (10 cm) of concrete.
Start with one side of the pond and work your way around. Pour the mixed concrete onto the sides and base and even it out with a shovel until there is a 4 in (10 cm) layer covering all sides.
Make sure that the concrete is not too watery or it will run down the sides of the pond when you pour it on them. If you notice this happening, then reduce the amount of the water in the mix.
You can spread the concrete out with a long rake with tape over the tips so that you don’t have to get into the pond to spread it.
If your pond is too deep to reach the bottom with a rake or shovel, then carry buckets of concrete down to the bottom. Start at one end of the pond, and spread the concrete out evenly with a shovel or rake, working backwards, until you reach the other end and have covered the entire bottom.
2-4. Press chicken wire mesh into the wet concrete.
Use 2 in (5.1 cm) chicken wire mesh. Push the wire mesh into the freshly poured concrete and overlap the wire anywhere that 2 pieces meet.
You can get large rolls of galvanised steel chicken wire mesh at a home improvement center.
The mesh will reinforce the concrete and help prevent cracking in the future.
Measure the side slopes and the bottom of the pool with a measuring tape to figure out how much mesh you need to purchase to cover them.
2-5. Cover the wire mesh with another layer of concrete and smooth it with a trowel.
Pour or shovel another 2 in (5.1 cm) of concrete over the chicken wire. Use a hand trowel to smooth it out evenly.
2 in (5.1 cm) is the recommended thickness for the concrete so it holds up against cracking over time.
Aim to have the concrete completely smoothed out within 2 hours, before it starts to get hard.
You can use a rake or broom to spread out the concrete before you give it a smooth final finish with a trowel.
Carry concrete into the pond with buckets and spread it out, working your way from the bottom to the top, if it is too deep to cover the whole sides with a rake or broom. This way you can cover smooth out any footprints as you make your way up towards the sides of the pond.
2-6. Cover the pond with plastic sheets and let it cure for 3 days.
Spread out the sheets to cover the entire pond and anchor them down with rocks or other heavy objects. Let the concrete dry for 3 days until it is completely cured, and then remove the sheets.
Once the pond is cured, you can install a pond filter system if you want to filter the water for swimming or for fish.
2-7. Spray on a rubber liner to seal the pond if you are using it for fish.
Use a dark-colored rubber liner, hold the can 6 in (15 cm) from the concrete, and spray it on from top to bottom. The liner will seal out the lime in the concrete that is harmful to fish.
You can also use a paint-on rubber liner instead of a spray-on liner. Dip a 4–6 in (10–15 cm) flat brush in the paint and work from top to bottom or left to right to coat the concrete.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Excavating the Pond\\n1-1. Clear the area where your pond will go.\\nRemove any rocks and debris with a wheelbarrow. Completely uproot any trees or bushes that are near where the sides of the pond will be so that the roots won’t grow through the sides of the pond.\\nYou should check the construction plans for your house or contact the civil authorities to make sure there are no utility lines in the area where you want your pond.\\nThe ideal spot for a pond is on level land and away from trees or bushes.\\n1-2. Make an outline of the shape of the pond with marking paint or a rope.\\nMark the outline with a spray can or squeeze bottle of marking paint. Use a rope or cord of some kind to outline the pond if you don’t have marking paint.\\nThe size of your pond is completely up to you, just keep in mind that the bigger it is, the more work it will be to excavate and pour the concrete.\\nIf you have rocky soil, the excavation can be a little tough. You may need to use a jackhammer or hire a crew to excavate the soil for you.\\nIf you plan to swim, then a pond that is 25–30 ft (7.6–9.1 m) long by 10 ft (3.0 m) wide is a suitable size, although smaller ponds work as well if you just want something to plunge in.\\nA fish pond, such as a koi pond, should be about 12 ft (3.7 m) by 10 ft (3.0 m) to hold up to 10 adult fish.\\n1-3. Dig the pond out with a shovel or a front-end loader to the desired depth.\\nYou will be able to excavate small-scale ponds using a wheelbarrow and a shovel. Hire a tractor driver with a front-end loader to excavate the pond if it is too large for you to excavate by hand.\\n5 ft (1.5 m) is a good depth if you are planning on swimming in your pond and want to be able to jump in.\\nA good size for a pond that you could dig out yourself would be 5 ft (1.5 m) by 8 ft (2.4 m), and 2 ft (0.61 m) deep.\\n1-4. Slope the sides at a 45-degree angle.\\nUse a shovel or front-end loader to dig out the sides until they are at approximately a 45-degree angle. This angle will make it easiest to cover the sides in concrete.\\nMake sure to remove any loose dirt from the bottom of the pool and pack down the soil with your shovel or front-end loader when you are finished excavating and sloping the sides.\\n1-5. Dig a spillway 4–6 in (10–15 cm) below the ponds lowest edge.\\nFind which way the pond naturally slopes. Use a shovel to dig a channel 4–6 in (10–15 cm) deep, 6–8 in (15–20 cm) wide, and at least 2 ft (0.61 m) long leading away from the side of the pond.\\nPlace a level around the sides to find the biggest slope if it is not obvious to the eye.\\nDig the channel towards a garden or plants to use water that drains from your pond to irrigate your property.\\nYou can line the earthen channel with river rocks to add visual appeal and so that you can walk over it.\\n2. Pouring the Concrete\\n2-1. Line the pond with heavy-gauge polythene sheet.\\nUse a plastic liner that is 0.75 mm (0.029 in) to 1.00 mm (0.039 in) thick. Cover the entire sides and base of the pond with the liner.\\nDouble the depth of your pond and add this number to the length and width of the pond to determine the length and width of liner that you need.\\nFor example, if your pond is 10 ft (3.0 m) by 10 ft (3.0 m), and 2 ft (0.61 m) deep, then you need a piece of plastic that is 14 ft (4.3 m) by 14 ft (4.3 m).\\nThe plastic will act as a moisture barrier, as well as provide something for the concrete to grab onto.\\n2-2. Mix concrete in an electric mixer following the concrete package’s instructions.\\nTurn on your electric mixer and pour in the correct ratio of concrete to water. Wait until it is thoroughly mixed and there are no dry spots to start pouring it.\\nYou can use an online concrete calculator to enter the dimensions of your pond and the thickness of the concrete you want to pour to determine how many bags of concrete you will need to complete the project.\\nThe type of electric concrete mixer to use is a small drum on wheels that tilts back and forth on an axis. When you plug it in and turn it on, the drum rotates to mix the concrete together.\\nIf you don’t have an electric mixer, or your pond is very small and you don’t need a lot of concrete, then you can mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow with a shovel.\\n2-3. Cover the sides and base with 4 in (10 cm) of concrete.\\nStart with one side of the pond and work your way around. Pour the mixed concrete onto the sides and base and even it out with a shovel until there is a 4 in (10 cm) layer covering all sides.\\nMake sure that the concrete is not too watery or it will run down the sides of the pond when you pour it on them. If you notice this happening, then reduce the amount of the water in the mix.\\nYou can spread the concrete out with a long rake with tape over the tips so that you don’t have to get into the pond to spread it.\\nIf your pond is too deep to reach the bottom with a rake or shovel, then carry buckets of concrete down to the bottom. Start at one end of the pond, and spread the concrete out evenly with a shovel or rake, working backwards, until you reach the other end and have covered the entire bottom.\\n2-4. Press chicken wire mesh into the wet concrete.\\nUse 2 in (5.1 cm) chicken wire mesh. Push the wire mesh into the freshly poured concrete and overlap the wire anywhere that 2 pieces meet.\\nYou can get large rolls of galvanised steel chicken wire mesh at a home improvement center.\\nThe mesh will reinforce the concrete and help prevent cracking in the future.\\nMeasure the side slopes and the bottom of the pool with a measuring tape to figure out how much mesh you need to purchase to cover them.\\n2-5. Cover the wire mesh with another layer of concrete and smooth it with a trowel.\\nPour or shovel another 2 in (5.1 cm) of concrete over the chicken wire. Use a hand trowel to smooth it out evenly.\\n2 in (5.1 cm) is the recommended thickness for the concrete so it holds up against cracking over time.\\nAim to have the concrete completely smoothed out within 2 hours, before it starts to get hard.\\nYou can use a rake or broom to spread out the concrete before you give it a smooth final finish with a trowel.\\nCarry concrete into the pond with buckets and spread it out, working your way from the bottom to the top, if it is too deep to cover the whole sides with a rake or broom. This way you can cover smooth out any footprints as you make your way up towards the sides of the pond.\\n2-6. Cover the pond with plastic sheets and let it cure for 3 days.\\nSpread out the sheets to cover the entire pond and anchor them down with rocks or other heavy objects. Let the concrete dry for 3 days until it is completely cured, and then remove the sheets.\\nOnce the pond is cured, you can install a pond filter system if you want to filter the water for swimming or for fish.\\n2-7. Spray on a rubber liner to seal the pond if you are using it for fish.\\nUse a dark-colored rubber liner, hold the can 6 in (15 cm) from the concrete, and spray it on from top to bottom. The liner will seal out the lime in the concrete that is harmful to fish.\\nYou can also use a paint-on rubber liner instead of a spray-on liner. Dip a 4–6 in (10–15 cm) flat brush in the paint and work from top to bottom or left to right to coat the concrete.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A concrete pond adds beauty and functionality to your landscape. Whether you want a pond purely for aesthetic purposes, or for irrigation and swimming, building a concrete pond is a project that you can do yourself with the right equipment and a lot of sweat! Make sure to properly excavate the pond, then pour concrete to the right thickness, and reinforce it with wire mesh to create a concrete pond that will last for years.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Excavating the Pond\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Clear the area where your pond will go.\", \"描述\": \"Remove any rocks and debris with a wheelbarrow. Completely uproot any trees or bushes that are near where the sides of the pond will be so that the roots won’t grow through the sides of the pond.\\nYou should check the construction plans for your house or contact the civil authorities to make sure there are no utility lines in the area where you want your pond.\\nThe ideal spot for a pond is on level land and away from trees or bushes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make an outline of the shape of the pond with marking paint or a rope.\", \"描述\": \"Mark the outline with a spray can or squeeze bottle of marking paint. Use a rope or cord of some kind to outline the pond if you don’t have marking paint.\\nThe size of your pond is completely up to you, just keep in mind that the bigger it is, the more work it will be to excavate and pour the concrete.\\nIf you have rocky soil, the excavation can be a little tough. You may need to use a jackhammer or hire a crew to excavate the soil for you.\\nIf you plan to swim, then a pond that is 25–30 ft (7.6–9.1 m) long by 10 ft (3.0 m) wide is a suitable size, although smaller ponds work as well if you just want something to plunge in.\\nA fish pond, such as a koi pond, should be about 12 ft (3.7 m) by 10 ft (3.0 m) to hold up to 10 adult fish.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig the pond out with a shovel or a front-end loader to the desired depth.\", \"描述\": \"You will be able to excavate small-scale ponds using a wheelbarrow and a shovel. Hire a tractor driver with a front-end loader to excavate the pond if it is too large for you to excavate by hand.\\n5 ft (1.5 m) is a good depth if you are planning on swimming in your pond and want to be able to jump in.\\nA good size for a pond that you could dig out yourself would be 5 ft (1.5 m) by 8 ft (2.4 m), and 2 ft (0.61 m) deep.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Slope the sides at a 45-degree angle.\", \"描述\": \"Use a shovel or front-end loader to dig out the sides until they are at approximately a 45-degree angle. This angle will make it easiest to cover the sides in concrete.\\nMake sure to remove any loose dirt from the bottom of the pool and pack down the soil with your shovel or front-end loader when you are finished excavating and sloping the sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Dig a spillway 4–6 in (10–15 cm) below the ponds lowest edge.\", \"描述\": \"Find which way the pond naturally slopes. Use a shovel to dig a channel 4–6 in (10–15 cm) deep, 6–8 in (15–20 cm) wide, and at least 2 ft (0.61 m) long leading away from the side of the pond.\\nPlace a level around the sides to find the biggest slope if it is not obvious to the eye.\\nDig the channel towards a garden or plants to use water that drains from your pond to irrigate your property.\\nYou can line the earthen channel with river rocks to add visual appeal and so that you can walk over it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pouring the Concrete\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Line the pond with heavy-gauge polythene sheet.\", \"描述\": \"Use a plastic liner that is 0.75 mm (0.029 in) to 1.00 mm (0.039 in) thick. Cover the entire sides and base of the pond with the liner.\\nDouble the depth of your pond and add this number to the length and width of the pond to determine the length and width of liner that you need.\\nFor example, if your pond is 10 ft (3.0 m) by 10 ft (3.0 m), and 2 ft (0.61 m) deep, then you need a piece of plastic that is 14 ft (4.3 m) by 14 ft (4.3 m).\\nThe plastic will act as a moisture barrier, as well as provide something for the concrete to grab onto.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mix concrete in an electric mixer following the concrete package’s instructions.\", \"描述\": \"Turn on your electric mixer and pour in the correct ratio of concrete to water. Wait until it is thoroughly mixed and there are no dry spots to start pouring it.\\nYou can use an online concrete calculator to enter the dimensions of your pond and the thickness of the concrete you want to pour to determine how many bags of concrete you will need to complete the project.\\nThe type of electric concrete mixer to use is a small drum on wheels that tilts back and forth on an axis. When you plug it in and turn it on, the drum rotates to mix the concrete together.\\nIf you don’t have an electric mixer, or your pond is very small and you don’t need a lot of concrete, then you can mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow with a shovel.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover the sides and base with 4 in (10 cm) of concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Start with one side of the pond and work your way around. Pour the mixed concrete onto the sides and base and even it out with a shovel until there is a 4 in (10 cm) layer covering all sides.\\nMake sure that the concrete is not too watery or it will run down the sides of the pond when you pour it on them. If you notice this happening, then reduce the amount of the water in the mix.\\nYou can spread the concrete out with a long rake with tape over the tips so that you don’t have to get into the pond to spread it.\\nIf your pond is too deep to reach the bottom with a rake or shovel, then carry buckets of concrete down to the bottom. Start at one end of the pond, and spread the concrete out evenly with a shovel or rake, working backwards, until you reach the other end and have covered the entire bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Press chicken wire mesh into the wet concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2 in (5.1 cm) chicken wire mesh. Push the wire mesh into the freshly poured concrete and overlap the wire anywhere that 2 pieces meet.\\nYou can get large rolls of galvanised steel chicken wire mesh at a home improvement center.\\nThe mesh will reinforce the concrete and help prevent cracking in the future.\\nMeasure the side slopes and the bottom of the pool with a measuring tape to figure out how much mesh you need to purchase to cover them.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cover the wire mesh with another layer of concrete and smooth it with a trowel.\", \"描述\": \"Pour or shovel another 2 in (5.1 cm) of concrete over the chicken wire. Use a hand trowel to smooth it out evenly.\\n2 in (5.1 cm) is the recommended thickness for the concrete so it holds up against cracking over time.\\nAim to have the concrete completely smoothed out within 2 hours, before it starts to get hard.\\nYou can use a rake or broom to spread out the concrete before you give it a smooth final finish with a trowel.\\nCarry concrete into the pond with buckets and spread it out, working your way from the bottom to the top, if it is too deep to cover the whole sides with a rake or broom. This way you can cover smooth out any footprints as you make your way up towards the sides of the pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cover the pond with plastic sheets and let it cure for 3 days.\", \"描述\": \"Spread out the sheets to cover the entire pond and anchor them down with rocks or other heavy objects. Let the concrete dry for 3 days until it is completely cured, and then remove the sheets.\\nOnce the pond is cured, you can install a pond filter system if you want to filter the water for swimming or for fish.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Spray on a rubber liner to seal the pond if you are using it for fish.\", \"描述\": \"Use a dark-colored rubber liner, hold the can 6 in (15 cm) from the concrete, and spray it on from top to bottom. The liner will seal out the lime in the concrete that is harmful to fish.\\nYou can also use a paint-on rubber liner instead of a spray-on liner. Dip a 4–6 in (10–15 cm) flat brush in the paint and work from top to bottom or left to right to coat the concrete.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,290 |
How to Build a Concrete Pool
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1. Designing and Documenting Your Pool
1-1. Choose a place to build the pool.
Find a place on your property with enough room for the pool. A spacious backyard area is usually the best option. Note any obstacles that will need to be removed, such as trees, rocks, fences, or even utility lines. Removing these obstacles takes additional time and money.
Think carefully about what you want out of a pool. Leave space for features like pump systems and diving boards. To estimate the size of these features, calculate the size of your pool or how much water it will hold, then look for suitable products.
Underground obstacles like utility lines are difficult to find without digging. Call your local utility companies for advice. Ask them to send a technician to mark the location of your lines.
The location you choose affects your pool. Put your pool above a slope so debris doesn’t wash into it during rainy days. Keep it in sunlight to warm the water naturally.
Pool contractors look at an element called setback, or how far away your pool has to be from your property line. In California, the required setback is 5 ft (1.5 m).
1-2. Sketch a basic design for your pool.
Pick up a pencil and a piece of paper, then create the pool you plan on constructing. Settle on the pool’s shape and size. Then, begin planning the features, including pool steps, lighting, and other accessories. Factor in limitations like the yard space you have available to choose the right pool for your situation.
An average concrete pool is something like 10 ft × 20 ft (3.0 m × 6.1 m) in size with a depth up to 10 ft (3.0 m). All of these dimensions can be changed depending on your ideal pool.
The concrete pool needs to be at least 6 in (15 cm) thick, so widen and deepen the outline as needed to compensate.
Keep in mind that each additional feature raises the cost and time commitment of building a pool.
1-3. Take your design to a professional pool builder for advice.
Search your area for some trustworthy contractors with experience building concrete pools. A good contractor will take a look at your plan and give you advice on how to improve it. Ask to see a valid contractor’s license with pool specialty licensing before hiring anyone.
At the very least, you need contractors to approve your design before you can get a building permit. You have to do this even if you plan on building the pool yourself.
Look for subcontractors specializing in areas like plumbing and electrical wiring. They can help finalize your design.
1-4. Apply for the building permits required by your local government.
Since building a pool involves changing the land and lots of safety concerns, you have to get a permit before construction starts. Head to the building department at your local city hall to apply. Bring your finalized design to show what you plan on constructing.
If applicable, consult your neighborhood’s homeowners association guidebook before completing your application. Some places restrict pools.
Depending on where you live, you may need to get a separate electrical permit before beginning construction.
If you hired a pool builder or subcontractor, ask them for help getting the necessary permits. Many companies handle the application process by default.
2. Excavating the Pool’s Base
2-1. Measure and mark the pool’s dimensions on the ground.
Use marking chalk to create a temporary outline for the pool. Spray the chalk directly on the ground. Note the pool’s borders, then the placement of walls, steps, and other accessories that need to be placed during the excavation.
Remember to dig out enough space to create the thick slabs of concrete for the pool’s floor and walls.
2-2. Dig out the soil to create the basic shape of the pool.
The quickest way to do this is with a backhoe. Locate a rental company or hire a subcontractor to get the job done. Set the excavated soil away from the edge of the pool. Use a tape measure or marked measuring sticks to keep track of the pool’s depth.
For example, if your pool needs to be 6 ft (1.8 m), cut a 6 ft (1.8 m) pole to use as a reference. Make references for the deep and shallow end if your pool has them. Remember that you can always put dirt back if you dig too far down.
Dig out the soil by hand if you can’t get a backhoe. Use a spade or alternative digging tools. Some areas aren’t accessible to heavy equipment and have to be dug out the old-fashioned way.
Make sure you have your permit and know about any utility lines in the ground. Hitting a utility line is a big problem. Hire a contractor to take care of any utility lines needing to be moved.
The leftover soil can be sold, disposed of by a contractor, or repurposed for other projects, such as for plant beds.
2-3. Level the pool’s bottom and walls with a rake.
Even out the bottom of the pool as much as possible with a steel-tined rake. Then, take care of the walls. Flatten the soil as needed with a tamper tool. When you’re done, test various areas of the pool by holding a large carpenter’s level over the soil. Properly leveled pools are stronger and more resistant to damage, so take the time to get this foundation perfect.
To keep track of the pool’s levelness, install stakes in the pool’s corners. Run strings between them. Pack the soil to the same height as the string to ensure it stays level throughout the pool.
Shape your pool according to your original design. For instance, your pool may have a sloped floor. Make the slope as gradual as possible, raking the soil smooth to protect your pool from damage later.
2-4. Frame the pool with steel rebar and plywood boards.
Choose rebar rods about 0.625 in (1.59 cm) in diameter. Lay them along the pool’s interior in a crisscross pattern, spacing them out by 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm). Keep the rebar about 3 in (7.6 cm) above the soil. Then, stand ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-thick plywood around the upper edge of the pool to prevent poured concrete from spilling out.
Use a rebar bender to fit the metal along the walls. Bind bars together as needed with metal ties from a hardware store.
The rebar forms a frame that strengthens the concrete after you pour it. Always place the rebar net before adding the concrete.
2-5. Install the plumbing lines underneath the rebar and plywood.
Refer to your original design to figure out where to place the plumbing lines. You will need to dig trenches to guide PVC pipes from the pool to the pump and filtration system. Make the pipes emerge inside the pool, underneath the plywood barrier. Hook the pipes up to the pump and filter system when you’re done.
Contract a plumber to take care of the water lines. Pool plumbing is complex and building codes vary from community to community. A good plumber will make sure your pool works safely.
2-6. Wire the pool’s filtration system and other electrical components.
Call an experienced electrician to connect pool accessories to your community’s electrical grid. The electrician will lay wire from the pool’s pump and filtration system to your home. They will also hook up lighting systems and other optional components in your design.
Leave the electrical work up to a professional. Messing with community power lines is illegal and dangerous. Poor wiring increases the risk of fires and electrical shock.
Your pool contractor will run another set of PVC lines, which will be made of conduits to run the electrical system.
3. Completing the Pool’s Interior
3-1. Pour concrete
Purchase plenty of shotcrete mix or gunite. Place it all in a mixing truck equipped with a big hose or dumping rail. Dump the concrete onto the rebar or spray it out with a hose attached to the truck. Use enough concrete to make the pool floor at least 6 in (15 cm) thick.
To make pouring the concrete easier, begin spraying the walls as you lay concrete on the floor so you don’t have to walk back and forth across the wet mix as much.
Gunite is cement at 3,500 to 4,000 psi (24,000 to 28,000 kPa). It takes 28 days to cure.
3-2. Spray the walls to coat them with concrete.
Put on some sturdy work boots you don’t mind getting wet, then step into the pool. Coat the walls to make a layer of concrete at least 6 in (15 cm) thick, Also, add concrete to the top lip of the pool marked off by plywood.
Take care not to spray over any exposed pipe openings. Cap them and spray around them.
3-3. Smooth the concrete out with a concrete float.
Step down into the pool to access the concrete slabs. You will need a float, which is like a big broom for concrete. Push the float over the floor to level it, then do the same for the walls.
You can also use a big metal straightedge to smooth out difficult spots along walls and corners. The straightedge is also helpful for smoothing out steps into a block shape.
3-4. Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet for at least 5 days.
For a long-lasting pool, let the concrete cure before continuing to work on it. Purchase a big plastic sheet from a hardware store. Make sure it covers the entire pool. Flatten it against the concrete, then pin it down with stakes, bricks, and other heavy objects.
If you don’t have a good plastic cover, spray the concrete with water from a hose 3 or 4 times a day. Keep it saturated to prevent it from drying out.
You can also place damp canvas or burlap over the concrete to protect it. Add water to the cover as needed to keep it moist.
3-5. Coat the pool basin with tile to waterproof it.
Glass, ceramic, and porcelain tiles are some of the most popular ways to finish a pool. Mix mortar, then spread it over the concrete with a trowel. After waiting at least 24 hours, spread grout over the mortar. Place the tiles on the grout, leaving a ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) gap between each one.
Leave a 6 in (15 cm) gap between the lip of the pool and the top row of tiles.
Make sure the mortar and grout resist chlorine and other chemicals in the water. Tile lasts up to 10 years on average and resist stains better than other finishes, though it tends to be a little more expensive.
Some other finishes to try include plaster, stone, or a water-resistant epoxy paint. Alternative finishes last 5 to 8 years on average.
3-6. Install coping around the lip of the pool.
Coping is visible and provides walking room around the pool’s edge. Tile is a common option, but you can also get concrete, marble, or stone. Each style adds a different aesthetic to your pool, but they all waterproof the exposed concrete. Wait at least 1 to 2 days for the tile and coping to cure before adding water to the pool.
Install the coping with mortar and grout like you did when lining the pool’s interior. Cover the 6 in (15 cm) gap you left inside the pool, then arrange another row of coping material around the pool’s rim.
3-7. Fill the pool with water.
You now have a concrete pool in your yard. All you need to do to make it functional is add the water. Run garden hoses from nearby water spigots to begin. Doing this takes a long time, so find alternative ways to bring in more water. Try renting a water truck to dump large amounts of water into the pool.
If you can’t get a truck to the pool, continue using a hose. It may take all day, but with a little patience, you will soon have a functional pool.
Watch the pool for leaks and other issues. Empty the pool before attempting a fix.
Tips
Drain the pool before attempting repairs. Use the pump and drainage system to empty the pool of water.
To repair cracks, clean them out with a hammer and chisel, then fill them in with new concrete. Use a trowel to apply the concrete patch and smooth it out.
Get a contractor for difficult parts and questions. Pools are expensive and mistakes can be catastrophic, so don’t take any risks.
Warnings
Always get building permits before beginning construction. Without a proper blueprint and permit, you may be asked to tear out the pool.
Electrical and plumbing work is very delicate. Call a contractor for a professional installation in order to create a safe pool that complies with local building codes.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing and Documenting Your Pool\\n1-1. Choose a place to build the pool.\\nFind a place on your property with enough room for the pool. A spacious backyard area is usually the best option. Note any obstacles that will need to be removed, such as trees, rocks, fences, or even utility lines. Removing these obstacles takes additional time and money.\\nThink carefully about what you want out of a pool. Leave space for features like pump systems and diving boards. To estimate the size of these features, calculate the size of your pool or how much water it will hold, then look for suitable products.\\nUnderground obstacles like utility lines are difficult to find without digging. Call your local utility companies for advice. Ask them to send a technician to mark the location of your lines.\\nThe location you choose affects your pool. Put your pool above a slope so debris doesn’t wash into it during rainy days. Keep it in sunlight to warm the water naturally.\\nPool contractors look at an element called setback, or how far away your pool has to be from your property line. In California, the required setback is 5 ft (1.5 m).\\n1-2. Sketch a basic design for your pool.\\nPick up a pencil and a piece of paper, then create the pool you plan on constructing. Settle on the pool’s shape and size. Then, begin planning the features, including pool steps, lighting, and other accessories. Factor in limitations like the yard space you have available to choose the right pool for your situation.\\nAn average concrete pool is something like 10 ft × 20 ft (3.0 m × 6.1 m) in size with a depth up to 10 ft (3.0 m). All of these dimensions can be changed depending on your ideal pool.\\nThe concrete pool needs to be at least 6 in (15 cm) thick, so widen and deepen the outline as needed to compensate.\\nKeep in mind that each additional feature raises the cost and time commitment of building a pool.\\n1-3. Take your design to a professional pool builder for advice.\\nSearch your area for some trustworthy contractors with experience building concrete pools. A good contractor will take a look at your plan and give you advice on how to improve it. Ask to see a valid contractor’s license with pool specialty licensing before hiring anyone.\\nAt the very least, you need contractors to approve your design before you can get a building permit. You have to do this even if you plan on building the pool yourself.\\nLook for subcontractors specializing in areas like plumbing and electrical wiring. They can help finalize your design.\\n1-4. Apply for the building permits required by your local government.\\nSince building a pool involves changing the land and lots of safety concerns, you have to get a permit before construction starts. Head to the building department at your local city hall to apply. Bring your finalized design to show what you plan on constructing.\\nIf applicable, consult your neighborhood’s homeowners association guidebook before completing your application. Some places restrict pools.\\nDepending on where you live, you may need to get a separate electrical permit before beginning construction.\\nIf you hired a pool builder or subcontractor, ask them for help getting the necessary permits. Many companies handle the application process by default.\\n2. Excavating the Pool’s Base\\n2-1. Measure and mark the pool’s dimensions on the ground.\\nUse marking chalk to create a temporary outline for the pool. Spray the chalk directly on the ground. Note the pool’s borders, then the placement of walls, steps, and other accessories that need to be placed during the excavation.\\nRemember to dig out enough space to create the thick slabs of concrete for the pool’s floor and walls.\\n2-2. Dig out the soil to create the basic shape of the pool.\\nThe quickest way to do this is with a backhoe. Locate a rental company or hire a subcontractor to get the job done. Set the excavated soil away from the edge of the pool. Use a tape measure or marked measuring sticks to keep track of the pool’s depth.\\nFor example, if your pool needs to be 6 ft (1.8 m), cut a 6 ft (1.8 m) pole to use as a reference. Make references for the deep and shallow end if your pool has them. Remember that you can always put dirt back if you dig too far down.\\nDig out the soil by hand if you can’t get a backhoe. Use a spade or alternative digging tools. Some areas aren’t accessible to heavy equipment and have to be dug out the old-fashioned way.\\nMake sure you have your permit and know about any utility lines in the ground. Hitting a utility line is a big problem. Hire a contractor to take care of any utility lines needing to be moved.\\nThe leftover soil can be sold, disposed of by a contractor, or repurposed for other projects, such as for plant beds.\\n2-3. Level the pool’s bottom and walls with a rake.\\nEven out the bottom of the pool as much as possible with a steel-tined rake. Then, take care of the walls. Flatten the soil as needed with a tamper tool. When you’re done, test various areas of the pool by holding a large carpenter’s level over the soil. Properly leveled pools are stronger and more resistant to damage, so take the time to get this foundation perfect.\\nTo keep track of the pool’s levelness, install stakes in the pool’s corners. Run strings between them. Pack the soil to the same height as the string to ensure it stays level throughout the pool.\\nShape your pool according to your original design. For instance, your pool may have a sloped floor. Make the slope as gradual as possible, raking the soil smooth to protect your pool from damage later.\\n2-4. Frame the pool with steel rebar and plywood boards.\\nChoose rebar rods about 0.625 in (1.59 cm) in diameter. Lay them along the pool’s interior in a crisscross pattern, spacing them out by 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm). Keep the rebar about 3 in (7.6 cm) above the soil. Then, stand ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-thick plywood around the upper edge of the pool to prevent poured concrete from spilling out.\\nUse a rebar bender to fit the metal along the walls. Bind bars together as needed with metal ties from a hardware store.\\nThe rebar forms a frame that strengthens the concrete after you pour it. Always place the rebar net before adding the concrete.\\n2-5. Install the plumbing lines underneath the rebar and plywood.\\nRefer to your original design to figure out where to place the plumbing lines. You will need to dig trenches to guide PVC pipes from the pool to the pump and filtration system. Make the pipes emerge inside the pool, underneath the plywood barrier. Hook the pipes up to the pump and filter system when you’re done.\\nContract a plumber to take care of the water lines. Pool plumbing is complex and building codes vary from community to community. A good plumber will make sure your pool works safely.\\n2-6. Wire the pool’s filtration system and other electrical components.\\nCall an experienced electrician to connect pool accessories to your community’s electrical grid. The electrician will lay wire from the pool’s pump and filtration system to your home. They will also hook up lighting systems and other optional components in your design.\\nLeave the electrical work up to a professional. Messing with community power lines is illegal and dangerous. Poor wiring increases the risk of fires and electrical shock.\\nYour pool contractor will run another set of PVC lines, which will be made of conduits to run the electrical system.\\n3. Completing the Pool’s Interior\\n3-1. Pour concrete\\nPurchase plenty of shotcrete mix or gunite. Place it all in a mixing truck equipped with a big hose or dumping rail. Dump the concrete onto the rebar or spray it out with a hose attached to the truck. Use enough concrete to make the pool floor at least 6 in (15 cm) thick.\\nTo make pouring the concrete easier, begin spraying the walls as you lay concrete on the floor so you don’t have to walk back and forth across the wet mix as much.\\nGunite is cement at 3,500 to 4,000 psi (24,000 to 28,000 kPa). It takes 28 days to cure.\\n3-2. Spray the walls to coat them with concrete.\\nPut on some sturdy work boots you don’t mind getting wet, then step into the pool. Coat the walls to make a layer of concrete at least 6 in (15 cm) thick, Also, add concrete to the top lip of the pool marked off by plywood.\\nTake care not to spray over any exposed pipe openings. Cap them and spray around them.\\n3-3. Smooth the concrete out with a concrete float.\\nStep down into the pool to access the concrete slabs. You will need a float, which is like a big broom for concrete. Push the float over the floor to level it, then do the same for the walls.\\nYou can also use a big metal straightedge to smooth out difficult spots along walls and corners. The straightedge is also helpful for smoothing out steps into a block shape.\\n3-4. Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet for at least 5 days.\\nFor a long-lasting pool, let the concrete cure before continuing to work on it. Purchase a big plastic sheet from a hardware store. Make sure it covers the entire pool. Flatten it against the concrete, then pin it down with stakes, bricks, and other heavy objects.\\nIf you don’t have a good plastic cover, spray the concrete with water from a hose 3 or 4 times a day. Keep it saturated to prevent it from drying out.\\nYou can also place damp canvas or burlap over the concrete to protect it. Add water to the cover as needed to keep it moist.\\n3-5. Coat the pool basin with tile to waterproof it.\\nGlass, ceramic, and porcelain tiles are some of the most popular ways to finish a pool. Mix mortar, then spread it over the concrete with a trowel. After waiting at least 24 hours, spread grout over the mortar. Place the tiles on the grout, leaving a ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) gap between each one.\\nLeave a 6 in (15 cm) gap between the lip of the pool and the top row of tiles.\\nMake sure the mortar and grout resist chlorine and other chemicals in the water. Tile lasts up to 10 years on average and resist stains better than other finishes, though it tends to be a little more expensive.\\nSome other finishes to try include plaster, stone, or a water-resistant epoxy paint. Alternative finishes last 5 to 8 years on average.\\n3-6. Install coping around the lip of the pool.\\nCoping is visible and provides walking room around the pool’s edge. Tile is a common option, but you can also get concrete, marble, or stone. Each style adds a different aesthetic to your pool, but they all waterproof the exposed concrete. Wait at least 1 to 2 days for the tile and coping to cure before adding water to the pool.\\nInstall the coping with mortar and grout like you did when lining the pool’s interior. Cover the 6 in (15 cm) gap you left inside the pool, then arrange another row of coping material around the pool’s rim.\\n3-7. Fill the pool with water.\\nYou now have a concrete pool in your yard. All you need to do to make it functional is add the water. Run garden hoses from nearby water spigots to begin. Doing this takes a long time, so find alternative ways to bring in more water. Try renting a water truck to dump large amounts of water into the pool.\\nIf you can’t get a truck to the pool, continue using a hose. It may take all day, but with a little patience, you will soon have a functional pool.\\nWatch the pool for leaks and other issues. Empty the pool before attempting a fix.\\nTips\\nDrain the pool before attempting repairs. Use the pump and drainage system to empty the pool of water.\\nTo repair cracks, clean them out with a hammer and chisel, then fill them in with new concrete. Use a trowel to apply the concrete patch and smooth it out.\\nGet a contractor for difficult parts and questions. Pools are expensive and mistakes can be catastrophic, so don’t take any risks.\\nWarnings\\nAlways get building permits before beginning construction. Without a proper blueprint and permit, you may be asked to tear out the pool.\\nElectrical and plumbing work is very delicate. Call a contractor for a professional installation in order to create a safe pool that complies with local building codes.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Concrete is responsible for some of the highest quality swimming pools ever built. When constructed properly, a concrete pool lasts for years before requiring basic maintenance or repairs. Concrete pools are made with shotcrete or gunite, mixtures of concrete or sand sprayed onto a metal frame. Plan carefully and hire contractors to make you a fantastic pool capable of lasting for decades.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing and Documenting Your Pool\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a place to build the pool.\", \"描述\": \"Find a place on your property with enough room for the pool. A spacious backyard area is usually the best option. Note any obstacles that will need to be removed, such as trees, rocks, fences, or even utility lines. Removing these obstacles takes additional time and money.\\nThink carefully about what you want out of a pool. Leave space for features like pump systems and diving boards. To estimate the size of these features, calculate the size of your pool or how much water it will hold, then look for suitable products.\\nUnderground obstacles like utility lines are difficult to find without digging. Call your local utility companies for advice. Ask them to send a technician to mark the location of your lines.\\nThe location you choose affects your pool. Put your pool above a slope so debris doesn’t wash into it during rainy days. Keep it in sunlight to warm the water naturally.\\nPool contractors look at an element called setback, or how far away your pool has to be from your property line. In California, the required setback is 5 ft (1.5 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sketch a basic design for your pool.\", \"描述\": \"Pick up a pencil and a piece of paper, then create the pool you plan on constructing. Settle on the pool’s shape and size. Then, begin planning the features, including pool steps, lighting, and other accessories. Factor in limitations like the yard space you have available to choose the right pool for your situation.\\nAn average concrete pool is something like 10 ft × 20 ft (3.0 m × 6.1 m) in size with a depth up to 10 ft (3.0 m). All of these dimensions can be changed depending on your ideal pool.\\nThe concrete pool needs to be at least 6 in (15 cm) thick, so widen and deepen the outline as needed to compensate.\\nKeep in mind that each additional feature raises the cost and time commitment of building a pool.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Take your design to a professional pool builder for advice.\", \"描述\": \"Search your area for some trustworthy contractors with experience building concrete pools. A good contractor will take a look at your plan and give you advice on how to improve it. Ask to see a valid contractor’s license with pool specialty licensing before hiring anyone.\\nAt the very least, you need contractors to approve your design before you can get a building permit. You have to do this even if you plan on building the pool yourself.\\nLook for subcontractors specializing in areas like plumbing and electrical wiring. They can help finalize your design.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Apply for the building permits required by your local government.\", \"描述\": \"Since building a pool involves changing the land and lots of safety concerns, you have to get a permit before construction starts. Head to the building department at your local city hall to apply. Bring your finalized design to show what you plan on constructing.\\nIf applicable, consult your neighborhood’s homeowners association guidebook before completing your application. Some places restrict pools.\\nDepending on where you live, you may need to get a separate electrical permit before beginning construction.\\nIf you hired a pool builder or subcontractor, ask them for help getting the necessary permits. Many companies handle the application process by default.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Excavating the Pool’s Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and mark the pool’s dimensions on the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Use marking chalk to create a temporary outline for the pool. Spray the chalk directly on the ground. Note the pool’s borders, then the placement of walls, steps, and other accessories that need to be placed during the excavation.\\nRemember to dig out enough space to create the thick slabs of concrete for the pool’s floor and walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig out the soil to create the basic shape of the pool.\", \"描述\": \"The quickest way to do this is with a backhoe. Locate a rental company or hire a subcontractor to get the job done. Set the excavated soil away from the edge of the pool. Use a tape measure or marked measuring sticks to keep track of the pool’s depth.\\nFor example, if your pool needs to be 6 ft (1.8 m), cut a 6 ft (1.8 m) pole to use as a reference. Make references for the deep and shallow end if your pool has them. Remember that you can always put dirt back if you dig too far down.\\nDig out the soil by hand if you can’t get a backhoe. Use a spade or alternative digging tools. Some areas aren’t accessible to heavy equipment and have to be dug out the old-fashioned way.\\nMake sure you have your permit and know about any utility lines in the ground. Hitting a utility line is a big problem. Hire a contractor to take care of any utility lines needing to be moved.\\nThe leftover soil can be sold, disposed of by a contractor, or repurposed for other projects, such as for plant beds.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Level the pool’s bottom and walls with a rake.\", \"描述\": \"Even out the bottom of the pool as much as possible with a steel-tined rake. Then, take care of the walls. Flatten the soil as needed with a tamper tool. When you’re done, test various areas of the pool by holding a large carpenter’s level over the soil. Properly leveled pools are stronger and more resistant to damage, so take the time to get this foundation perfect.\\nTo keep track of the pool’s levelness, install stakes in the pool’s corners. Run strings between them. Pack the soil to the same height as the string to ensure it stays level throughout the pool.\\nShape your pool according to your original design. For instance, your pool may have a sloped floor. Make the slope as gradual as possible, raking the soil smooth to protect your pool from damage later.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Frame the pool with steel rebar and plywood boards.\", \"描述\": \"Choose rebar rods about 0.625 in (1.59 cm) in diameter. Lay them along the pool’s interior in a crisscross pattern, spacing them out by 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm). Keep the rebar about 3 in (7.6 cm) above the soil. Then, stand ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-thick plywood around the upper edge of the pool to prevent poured concrete from spilling out.\\nUse a rebar bender to fit the metal along the walls. Bind bars together as needed with metal ties from a hardware store.\\nThe rebar forms a frame that strengthens the concrete after you pour it. Always place the rebar net before adding the concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install the plumbing lines underneath the rebar and plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Refer to your original design to figure out where to place the plumbing lines. You will need to dig trenches to guide PVC pipes from the pool to the pump and filtration system. Make the pipes emerge inside the pool, underneath the plywood barrier. Hook the pipes up to the pump and filter system when you’re done.\\nContract a plumber to take care of the water lines. Pool plumbing is complex and building codes vary from community to community. A good plumber will make sure your pool works safely.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Wire the pool’s filtration system and other electrical components.\", \"描述\": \"Call an experienced electrician to connect pool accessories to your community’s electrical grid. The electrician will lay wire from the pool’s pump and filtration system to your home. They will also hook up lighting systems and other optional components in your design.\\nLeave the electrical work up to a professional. Messing with community power lines is illegal and dangerous. Poor wiring increases the risk of fires and electrical shock.\\nYour pool contractor will run another set of PVC lines, which will be made of conduits to run the electrical system.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Completing the Pool’s Interior\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pour concrete\", \"描述\": \"Purchase plenty of shotcrete mix or gunite. Place it all in a mixing truck equipped with a big hose or dumping rail. Dump the concrete onto the rebar or spray it out with a hose attached to the truck. Use enough concrete to make the pool floor at least 6 in (15 cm) thick.\\nTo make pouring the concrete easier, begin spraying the walls as you lay concrete on the floor so you don’t have to walk back and forth across the wet mix as much.\\nGunite is cement at 3,500 to 4,000 psi (24,000 to 28,000 kPa). It takes 28 days to cure.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Spray the walls to coat them with concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Put on some sturdy work boots you don’t mind getting wet, then step into the pool. Coat the walls to make a layer of concrete at least 6 in (15 cm) thick, Also, add concrete to the top lip of the pool marked off by plywood.\\nTake care not to spray over any exposed pipe openings. Cap them and spray around them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Smooth the concrete out with a concrete float.\", \"描述\": \"Step down into the pool to access the concrete slabs. You will need a float, which is like a big broom for concrete. Push the float over the floor to level it, then do the same for the walls.\\nYou can also use a big metal straightedge to smooth out difficult spots along walls and corners. The straightedge is also helpful for smoothing out steps into a block shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet for at least 5 days.\", \"描述\": \"For a long-lasting pool, let the concrete cure before continuing to work on it. Purchase a big plastic sheet from a hardware store. Make sure it covers the entire pool. Flatten it against the concrete, then pin it down with stakes, bricks, and other heavy objects.\\nIf you don’t have a good plastic cover, spray the concrete with water from a hose 3 or 4 times a day. Keep it saturated to prevent it from drying out.\\nYou can also place damp canvas or burlap over the concrete to protect it. Add water to the cover as needed to keep it moist.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Coat the pool basin with tile to waterproof it.\", \"描述\": \"Glass, ceramic, and porcelain tiles are some of the most popular ways to finish a pool. Mix mortar, then spread it over the concrete with a trowel. After waiting at least 24 hours, spread grout over the mortar. Place the tiles on the grout, leaving a ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) gap between each one.\\nLeave a 6 in (15 cm) gap between the lip of the pool and the top row of tiles.\\nMake sure the mortar and grout resist chlorine and other chemicals in the water. Tile lasts up to 10 years on average and resist stains better than other finishes, though it tends to be a little more expensive.\\nSome other finishes to try include plaster, stone, or a water-resistant epoxy paint. Alternative finishes last 5 to 8 years on average.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install coping around the lip of the pool.\", \"描述\": \"Coping is visible and provides walking room around the pool’s edge. Tile is a common option, but you can also get concrete, marble, or stone. Each style adds a different aesthetic to your pool, but they all waterproof the exposed concrete. Wait at least 1 to 2 days for the tile and coping to cure before adding water to the pool.\\nInstall the coping with mortar and grout like you did when lining the pool’s interior. Cover the 6 in (15 cm) gap you left inside the pool, then arrange another row of coping material around the pool’s rim.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fill the pool with water.\", \"描述\": \"You now have a concrete pool in your yard. All you need to do to make it functional is add the water. Run garden hoses from nearby water spigots to begin. Doing this takes a long time, so find alternative ways to bring in more water. Try renting a water truck to dump large amounts of water into the pool.\\nIf you can’t get a truck to the pool, continue using a hose. It may take all day, but with a little patience, you will soon have a functional pool.\\nWatch the pool for leaks and other issues. Empty the pool before attempting a fix.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Drain the pool before attempting repairs. Use the pump and drainage system to empty the pool of water.\\n\", \"To repair cracks, clean them out with a hammer and chisel, then fill them in with new concrete. Use a trowel to apply the concrete patch and smooth it out.\\n\", \"Get a contractor for difficult parts and questions. Pools are expensive and mistakes can be catastrophic, so don’t take any risks.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always get building permits before beginning construction. Without a proper blueprint and permit, you may be asked to tear out the pool.\\n\", \"Electrical and plumbing work is very delicate. Call a contractor for a professional installation in order to create a safe pool that complies with local building codes.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,291 |
How to Build a Concrete Sidewalk
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1. Steps
1-1. Plan your sidewalk.
Do you want to make a curved sidewalk or straight? maybe you want to put in a ramp, whatever the case may be, know what you plan to do before you begin.
1-2. Lay out the area.
Mark out a start and end point, as well as layout your potential sidewalk.
1-3. CALL DIG-SAFE (811).
You would be surprised how many utilities are buried less than 4 inches (10.2 cm) underground.
1-4. Establish a finish grade for your sidewalk this will serve as a start point as well as finish point.
For most sidewalks, the use if a sting line and line level are sufficient enough. If you wish to be more technical and precise, you may use a laser or transit to establish grades.
1-5. Begin your excavation.
Dig to your sub-grade, roughly 5–7 inches (12.7–17.8 cm) below your established finish grade.
1-6. Form your sidewalk.
Form your sidewalk using a rigid, yet flexible piece(s) of material. Thin plywood 1/2" to 3/4" is best to use due to its flexibility. Strip plywood into 4" wide sheets.
1-7. Set a string line to your finish grade.
The string should also serve as a guide for the form to follow.
1-8. Set the forms by using either form pins or scrap wood.
Begin by driving the pin or wood into the ground so the material is not able to easily move. Then nail the face of the form to the pin or wood while at the same time following the string. The top of the form should just touch the string.
1-9. Fine grade your excavation.
Use a straight blade rake to level out the ground. If possible, compact the ground after fine grading by using a hand tamper or motorized compactor.
1-10. Apply it at the right temperature.
The temperature of the concrete should be between 50°F and 90°F during placement. This can be checked with a standard thermometer.
If you purchase ready-mix concrete, be sure to request an air-entrainment additive. You should look for air-entrainment to be between 4-8%. This will insure that your concrete is able to withstand colder temperatures.
1-11. Pour the concrete to your finish grade.
Use a screed (Straight edge)to remove excess concrete as well as level off the surface. screed in a sliding motion, pulling the screed back and fourth while at the same time moving it along the form.
1-12. Roll the concrete using a concrete roller.
This pushes the aggregate in the mix down while at the same time raises the cream used to finish the concrete.
1-13. Bull float the concrete.
Push the float over the concrete, to the form then pull it back to you. The slower you do this the better.
1-14. Use a fresno float to float over what you just bull floated.
This will put an extremely smooth surface on the concrete, making it easier to finish.
1-15. Cut your edges and center joints using an edger and center joint.
Push the tools through the concrete while keeping the outside edges of the tools level with the concrete.
Concrete likes to crack in squares. Be sure to put score marks or dummy joints in your sidewalk. These should be spaced apart equal to the length. e.g. 4' wide = Dummy Joints should be spaced every 4"/ 5'=5". Dummy joints should not be spaced more than 6'.
Use a fiberboard expansion material where your concrete meets other structures and every 25' in in your sidewalk.
1-16. Use a magnesium float to remove the score marks left behind by the hand tools you used earlier, if desired.
If you wish to broom finish the concrete, let the mix set up until is becomes tough to float (magnesium float). Pull a horsehair brush lightly across the surface so the stride marks are perpendicular to your form.
Tips
When floating concrete with any floats, slightly lift the leading edge of the float, preventing you from accidentally digging into the concrete and making a hole.
Warnings
If the ambient temperature is below 40°F or above 90°F, you should probably wait for better temperatures. However, use of a curing compound can help if temperatures are too warm. Try finding a compound that will dry clear so it will not stain the surface. This type of compound may appear pink in color. But don't worry, it will disappear once dry. If the temperature is expected to drop below 45°F use of a concrete blanket is advised or any kind of covering that can hold the heat from the concrete in. This should be maintained for 120 hours.
These instructions are intended for use by persons experienced in the construction fields.
Always wear safety glasses.
Always use caution when cutting with any sort of power saw.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Plan your sidewalk.\\nDo you want to make a curved sidewalk or straight? maybe you want to put in a ramp, whatever the case may be, know what you plan to do before you begin.\\n1-2. Lay out the area.\\nMark out a start and end point, as well as layout your potential sidewalk.\\n1-3. CALL DIG-SAFE (811).\\nYou would be surprised how many utilities are buried less than 4 inches (10.2 cm) underground.\\n1-4. Establish a finish grade for your sidewalk this will serve as a start point as well as finish point.\\nFor most sidewalks, the use if a sting line and line level are sufficient enough. If you wish to be more technical and precise, you may use a laser or transit to establish grades.\\n1-5. Begin your excavation.\\nDig to your sub-grade, roughly 5–7 inches (12.7–17.8 cm) below your established finish grade.\\n1-6. Form your sidewalk.\\nForm your sidewalk using a rigid, yet flexible piece(s) of material. Thin plywood 1/2\\\" to 3/4\\\" is best to use due to its flexibility. Strip plywood into 4\\\" wide sheets.\\n1-7. Set a string line to your finish grade.\\nThe string should also serve as a guide for the form to follow.\\n1-8. Set the forms by using either form pins or scrap wood.\\nBegin by driving the pin or wood into the ground so the material is not able to easily move. Then nail the face of the form to the pin or wood while at the same time following the string. The top of the form should just touch the string.\\n1-9. Fine grade your excavation.\\nUse a straight blade rake to level out the ground. If possible, compact the ground after fine grading by using a hand tamper or motorized compactor.\\n1-10. Apply it at the right temperature.\\nThe temperature of the concrete should be between 50°F and 90°F during placement. This can be checked with a standard thermometer.\\nIf you purchase ready-mix concrete, be sure to request an air-entrainment additive. You should look for air-entrainment to be between 4-8%. This will insure that your concrete is able to withstand colder temperatures.\\n1-11. Pour the concrete to your finish grade.\\nUse a screed (Straight edge)to remove excess concrete as well as level off the surface. screed in a sliding motion, pulling the screed back and fourth while at the same time moving it along the form.\\n1-12. Roll the concrete using a concrete roller.\\nThis pushes the aggregate in the mix down while at the same time raises the cream used to finish the concrete.\\n1-13. Bull float the concrete.\\nPush the float over the concrete, to the form then pull it back to you. The slower you do this the better.\\n1-14. Use a fresno float to float over what you just bull floated.\\nThis will put an extremely smooth surface on the concrete, making it easier to finish.\\n1-15. Cut your edges and center joints using an edger and center joint.\\nPush the tools through the concrete while keeping the outside edges of the tools level with the concrete.\\nConcrete likes to crack in squares. Be sure to put score marks or dummy joints in your sidewalk. These should be spaced apart equal to the length. e.g. 4' wide = Dummy Joints should be spaced every 4\\\"/ 5'=5\\\". Dummy joints should not be spaced more than 6'.\\nUse a fiberboard expansion material where your concrete meets other structures and every 25' in in your sidewalk.\\n1-16. Use a magnesium float to remove the score marks left behind by the hand tools you used earlier, if desired.\\nIf you wish to broom finish the concrete, let the mix set up until is becomes tough to float (magnesium float). Pull a horsehair brush lightly across the surface so the stride marks are perpendicular to your form.\\nTips\\nWhen floating concrete with any floats, slightly lift the leading edge of the float, preventing you from accidentally digging into the concrete and making a hole.\\nWarnings\\nIf the ambient temperature is below 40°F or above 90°F, you should probably wait for better temperatures. However, use of a curing compound can help if temperatures are too warm. Try finding a compound that will dry clear so it will not stain the surface. This type of compound may appear pink in color. But don't worry, it will disappear once dry. If the temperature is expected to drop below 45°F use of a concrete blanket is advised or any kind of covering that can hold the heat from the concrete in. This should be maintained for 120 hours.\\nThese instructions are intended for use by persons experienced in the construction fields.\\nAlways wear safety glasses.\\nAlways use caution when cutting with any sort of power saw.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building concrete sidewalks isn't as complicated as one may think. The forms are easy to make, as well as set up. The only part which takes true talent is finishing your concrete.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan your sidewalk.\", \"描述\": \"Do you want to make a curved sidewalk or straight? maybe you want to put in a ramp, whatever the case may be, know what you plan to do before you begin.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay out the area.\", \"描述\": \"Mark out a start and end point, as well as layout your potential sidewalk.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"CALL DIG-SAFE (811).\", \"描述\": \"You would be surprised how many utilities are buried less than 4 inches (10.2 cm) underground.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Establish a finish grade for your sidewalk this will serve as a start point as well as finish point.\", \"描述\": \"For most sidewalks, the use if a sting line and line level are sufficient enough. If you wish to be more technical and precise, you may use a laser or transit to establish grades.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Begin your excavation.\", \"描述\": \"Dig to your sub-grade, roughly 5–7 inches (12.7–17.8 cm) below your established finish grade.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Form your sidewalk.\", \"描述\": \"Form your sidewalk using a rigid, yet flexible piece(s) of material. Thin plywood 1/2\\\" to 3/4\\\" is best to use due to its flexibility. Strip plywood into 4\\\" wide sheets.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Set a string line to your finish grade.\", \"描述\": \"The string should also serve as a guide for the form to follow.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Set the forms by using either form pins or scrap wood.\", \"描述\": \"Begin by driving the pin or wood into the ground so the material is not able to easily move. Then nail the face of the form to the pin or wood while at the same time following the string. The top of the form should just touch the string.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Fine grade your excavation.\", \"描述\": \"Use a straight blade rake to level out the ground. If possible, compact the ground after fine grading by using a hand tamper or motorized compactor.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Apply it at the right temperature.\", \"描述\": \"The temperature of the concrete should be between 50°F and 90°F during placement. This can be checked with a standard thermometer.\\nIf you purchase ready-mix concrete, be sure to request an air-entrainment additive. You should look for air-entrainment to be between 4-8%. This will insure that your concrete is able to withstand colder temperatures.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Pour the concrete to your finish grade.\", \"描述\": \"Use a screed (Straight edge)to remove excess concrete as well as level off the surface. screed in a sliding motion, pulling the screed back and fourth while at the same time moving it along the form.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Roll the concrete using a concrete roller.\", \"描述\": \"This pushes the aggregate in the mix down while at the same time raises the cream used to finish the concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Bull float the concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Push the float over the concrete, to the form then pull it back to you. The slower you do this the better.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Use a fresno float to float over what you just bull floated.\", \"描述\": \"This will put an extremely smooth surface on the concrete, making it easier to finish.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Cut your edges and center joints using an edger and center joint.\", \"描述\": \"Push the tools through the concrete while keeping the outside edges of the tools level with the concrete.\\nConcrete likes to crack in squares. Be sure to put score marks or dummy joints in your sidewalk. These should be spaced apart equal to the length. e.g. 4' wide = Dummy Joints should be spaced every 4\\\"/ 5'=5\\\". Dummy joints should not be spaced more than 6'.\\nUse a fiberboard expansion material where your concrete meets other structures and every 25' in in your sidewalk.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Use a magnesium float to remove the score marks left behind by the hand tools you used earlier, if desired.\", \"描述\": \"If you wish to broom finish the concrete, let the mix set up until is becomes tough to float (magnesium float). Pull a horsehair brush lightly across the surface so the stride marks are perpendicular to your form.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"When floating concrete with any floats, slightly lift the leading edge of the float, preventing you from accidentally digging into the concrete and making a hole.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If the ambient temperature is below 40°F or above 90°F, you should probably wait for better temperatures. However, use of a curing compound can help if temperatures are too warm. Try finding a compound that will dry clear so it will not stain the surface. This type of compound may appear pink in color. But don't worry, it will disappear once dry. If the temperature is expected to drop below 45°F use of a concrete blanket is advised or any kind of covering that can hold the heat from the concrete in. This should be maintained for 120 hours.\\n\", \"These instructions are intended for use by persons experienced in the construction fields.\\n\", \"Always wear safety glasses.\\n\", \"Always use caution when cutting with any sort of power saw.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,292 |
How to Build a Cool House in Sims 3
|
1. Building from Scratch
1-1. Determine the type of house you want to build.
Before you dive into creating a house in your game, you should know the style and general appearance you want to use. Other things to keep in mind include the following:
Number of stories
Approximate size
General materials (e.g., wood, brick, etc.)
1-2. Consider using a model.
Using a real house as a basis for your Sims 3 house's exterior can provide a useful guide in case you're having trouble visualizing what you want your house to look like.
You can find images of houses on real estate sites such as Zillow, or you can simply search Google's images section for pictures of a particular style of house.
1-3. Select an empty lot.
Click a lot on which you want to build your house, then click the paint roller-shaped "Build" icon in the resulting pop-up menu.
1-4. Familiarize yourself with the Sims 3 house-building interface.
Once the lot opens, the building tab will open at the bottom of the screen; you should see a diagram of a house, along with various house components, listed there.
Selecting a specific piece of the house diagram (e.g., the roof) will bring up a list of building options related to the component (for example, clicking the roof will cause several different styles of roof to appear).
1-5. Even out the ground.
Click the mound-shaped "Terrain Tools" icon in the house diagram, then click and drag across your lot to select the whole thing before you release the mouse button.
1-6. Create the foundation.
Click the foundation icon below the house diagram, then click and drag across the lot. This is the base on which your house will rest, and it will determine the shape of your house.
If you want to make an irregular-shaped house (e.g., a house in the shape of an "L"), you can add a piece of foundation to the main foundation by clicking and dragging another section of foundation to connect to the main one.
1-7. Add walls to your foundation.
Click the house diagram's wall (making sure not to click the window instead), then click and drag your wall all the way around your house. This will create the first floor's outer wall.
1-8. Partition your first floor's rooms.
Using the wall tool, click and drag from the outer wall inward to create dividing walls.
Examples of rooms you may wish to create include a kitchen, bedrooms, and a bathroom.
This step isn't necessary if you want to create an open floor plan, though you'll still most likely want to partition off the bathroom.
1-9. Add details for each floor.
You can change the appearance of your house's floors by doing the following:
Click the floor icon in the house diagram.
Click the second tab from the left at the top of the diagram area.
Select a texture you want to use for your floor.
Click and drag across the floor.
1-10. Detail the walls.
Much like you did for the floors, you can add textures, wallpaper, and more to your walls:
Click the wall icon in the house diagram.
Select one of the tabs at the top of the wall section.
Click (or, depending on the texture, click and drag across) the wall.
1-11. Add and decorate a second floor if needed.
To add a floor to your house, click the floor section (above the foundation) of the house diagram, then click and drag across your house's outline.
You can repeat this process to add subsequent stories as needed.
1-12. Add doors and windows.
Click the door or window icon in the house diagram, then select a part of your house to add the door or window, then repeat as needed.
You may first want to select a different door or window preset in the toolbar at the bottom of the screen.
You can also add doors to walls inside your house.
1-13. Put a roof on your house.
Click the roof icon in the house diagram, then select a roof template and click and drag across the top of your house to apply the roof.
If you want to add intersecting roofs to extend your roof to cover an extended part of the house, you can repeat this process by dragging a new roof perpendicular to the existing roof.
1-14. Apply textures to your house's exterior.
The final design element for your house is the exterior appearance. You can change the way your house's outside walls, doors, windows, roof, and other aspects look by doing the following:
Select the part of the house you want to detail (e.g., the door or the wall) in the house diagram.
Click a tab to view available textures (e.g., ).
Select a texture.
Select the part of the house to apply the texture.
1-15. Decorate your house.
Now that your house's structure is complete, all that's left to do is add furniture, interior decorations, and any other details you want to apply. You can do this by clicking the furniture tab above the "Build" tab at the bottom of the screen, selecting different tabs to view their related pieces of furniture or decorations, selecting a piece of furniture or decor, and selecting a space in your house.
2. Using a Template
2-1. Open the Sims 3 Exchange site.
Go to thesims3.com/exchange/lots in your computer's web browser.
Unfortunately, you won't be able to use this method on the console versions of The Sims 3.
2-2. Log in.
If you aren't automatically logged into the Sims 3 Exchange site, click in the top-left corner of the page, then enter your email address and password and click .
If you haven't yet created a Sims 3 account, click the link in the top-right corner of the window, then follow the on-screen instructions to create an account.
2-3. Browse the available houses.
Near the bottom of the page, you'll see a list of available house templates; you can click a house's thumbnail to view it at the top of the page, and you can skip to the next page of templates by clicking the page number in the top-right corner of the house preview section.
2-4. Select a house.
Once you decide on a house, click its thumbnail in the house preview section to open it.
2-5. Click ADD TO GAME.
It's to the right of the house preview. Doing so will open The Sims 3's launcher in a new window.
Make sure that The Sims 3's disc is in your computer if you're playing off of a CD.
If prompted to register your game, go to https://www.thesims3.com/registeragame.html and enter your Sims 3 serial code, then click . You can then go back to the house's page and click again.
2-6. Click the Downloads tab.
This option is on the left side of the launcher window.
2-7. Make sure the house's box is checked.
If you don't see a check in the box to the left of the house's icon in the launcher window, click the box to check it before proceeding.
2-8. Click Install.
It's at the bottom of the launcher window. The house file will begin adding to your Sims 3 game.
2-9. Uncheck the "Run without custom content" box.
This box is at the top of the launcher window.
2-10. Add the house to your Sims 3 game.
Once the house has finished installing and you've opened your Sims 3 game, you can add the house to any empty lot you own by doing the following:
Click in the bottom-left corner of the screen, then click in the pop-up menu.
Click if prompted.
Click the house-shaped tab in the middle of the list of tabs at the bottom of the screen.
Select your downloaded house, then click .
Select a lot for your house, then wait for the house to appear.
Tips
You can enable cheats in your game by pressing Ctrl+⇧ Shift+C (Windows) or ⌘ Command+⇧ Shift+C (Mac), typing in testingcheatsenabled true, and pressing ↵ Enter. This will allow you to enter various cheats which may allow you to access special items or physics.
Warnings
If you move an object with a cheat, your sims may no longer be able to use it once cheats are disabled.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building from Scratch\\n1-1. Determine the type of house you want to build.\\nBefore you dive into creating a house in your game, you should know the style and general appearance you want to use. Other things to keep in mind include the following:\\nNumber of stories\\nApproximate size\\nGeneral materials (e.g., wood, brick, etc.)\\n1-2. Consider using a model.\\nUsing a real house as a basis for your Sims 3 house's exterior can provide a useful guide in case you're having trouble visualizing what you want your house to look like.\\nYou can find images of houses on real estate sites such as Zillow, or you can simply search Google's images section for pictures of a particular style of house.\\n1-3. Select an empty lot.\\nClick a lot on which you want to build your house, then click the paint roller-shaped \\\"Build\\\" icon in the resulting pop-up menu.\\n1-4. Familiarize yourself with the Sims 3 house-building interface.\\nOnce the lot opens, the building tab will open at the bottom of the screen; you should see a diagram of a house, along with various house components, listed there.\\nSelecting a specific piece of the house diagram (e.g., the roof) will bring up a list of building options related to the component (for example, clicking the roof will cause several different styles of roof to appear).\\n1-5. Even out the ground.\\nClick the mound-shaped \\\"Terrain Tools\\\" icon in the house diagram, then click and drag across your lot to select the whole thing before you release the mouse button.\\n1-6. Create the foundation.\\nClick the foundation icon below the house diagram, then click and drag across the lot. This is the base on which your house will rest, and it will determine the shape of your house.\\nIf you want to make an irregular-shaped house (e.g., a house in the shape of an \\\"L\\\"), you can add a piece of foundation to the main foundation by clicking and dragging another section of foundation to connect to the main one.\\n1-7. Add walls to your foundation.\\nClick the house diagram's wall (making sure not to click the window instead), then click and drag your wall all the way around your house. This will create the first floor's outer wall.\\n1-8. Partition your first floor's rooms.\\nUsing the wall tool, click and drag from the outer wall inward to create dividing walls.\\nExamples of rooms you may wish to create include a kitchen, bedrooms, and a bathroom.\\nThis step isn't necessary if you want to create an open floor plan, though you'll still most likely want to partition off the bathroom.\\n1-9. Add details for each floor.\\nYou can change the appearance of your house's floors by doing the following:\\nClick the floor icon in the house diagram.\\nClick the second tab from the left at the top of the diagram area.\\nSelect a texture you want to use for your floor.\\nClick and drag across the floor.\\n1-10. Detail the walls.\\nMuch like you did for the floors, you can add textures, wallpaper, and more to your walls:\\nClick the wall icon in the house diagram.\\nSelect one of the tabs at the top of the wall section.\\nClick (or, depending on the texture, click and drag across) the wall.\\n1-11. Add and decorate a second floor if needed.\\nTo add a floor to your house, click the floor section (above the foundation) of the house diagram, then click and drag across your house's outline.\\nYou can repeat this process to add subsequent stories as needed.\\n1-12. Add doors and windows.\\nClick the door or window icon in the house diagram, then select a part of your house to add the door or window, then repeat as needed.\\nYou may first want to select a different door or window preset in the toolbar at the bottom of the screen.\\nYou can also add doors to walls inside your house.\\n1-13. Put a roof on your house.\\nClick the roof icon in the house diagram, then select a roof template and click and drag across the top of your house to apply the roof.\\nIf you want to add intersecting roofs to extend your roof to cover an extended part of the house, you can repeat this process by dragging a new roof perpendicular to the existing roof.\\n1-14. Apply textures to your house's exterior.\\nThe final design element for your house is the exterior appearance. You can change the way your house's outside walls, doors, windows, roof, and other aspects look by doing the following:\\nSelect the part of the house you want to detail (e.g., the door or the wall) in the house diagram.\\nClick a tab to view available textures (e.g., ).\\nSelect a texture.\\nSelect the part of the house to apply the texture.\\n1-15. Decorate your house.\\nNow that your house's structure is complete, all that's left to do is add furniture, interior decorations, and any other details you want to apply. You can do this by clicking the furniture tab above the \\\"Build\\\" tab at the bottom of the screen, selecting different tabs to view their related pieces of furniture or decorations, selecting a piece of furniture or decor, and selecting a space in your house.\\n2. Using a Template\\n2-1. Open the Sims 3 Exchange site.\\nGo to thesims3.com/exchange/lots in your computer's web browser.\\nUnfortunately, you won't be able to use this method on the console versions of The Sims 3.\\n2-2. Log in.\\nIf you aren't automatically logged into the Sims 3 Exchange site, click in the top-left corner of the page, then enter your email address and password and click .\\nIf you haven't yet created a Sims 3 account, click the link in the top-right corner of the window, then follow the on-screen instructions to create an account.\\n2-3. Browse the available houses.\\nNear the bottom of the page, you'll see a list of available house templates; you can click a house's thumbnail to view it at the top of the page, and you can skip to the next page of templates by clicking the page number in the top-right corner of the house preview section.\\n2-4. Select a house.\\nOnce you decide on a house, click its thumbnail in the house preview section to open it.\\n2-5. Click ADD TO GAME.\\nIt's to the right of the house preview. Doing so will open The Sims 3's launcher in a new window.\\nMake sure that The Sims 3's disc is in your computer if you're playing off of a CD.\\nIf prompted to register your game, go to https://www.thesims3.com/registeragame.html and enter your Sims 3 serial code, then click . You can then go back to the house's page and click again.\\n2-6. Click the Downloads tab.\\nThis option is on the left side of the launcher window.\\n2-7. Make sure the house's box is checked.\\nIf you don't see a check in the box to the left of the house's icon in the launcher window, click the box to check it before proceeding.\\n2-8. Click Install.\\nIt's at the bottom of the launcher window. The house file will begin adding to your Sims 3 game.\\n2-9. Uncheck the \\\"Run without custom content\\\" box.\\nThis box is at the top of the launcher window.\\n2-10. Add the house to your Sims 3 game.\\nOnce the house has finished installing and you've opened your Sims 3 game, you can add the house to any empty lot you own by doing the following:\\nClick in the bottom-left corner of the screen, then click in the pop-up menu.\\nClick if prompted.\\nClick the house-shaped tab in the middle of the list of tabs at the bottom of the screen.\\nSelect your downloaded house, then click .\\nSelect a lot for your house, then wait for the house to appear.\\nTips\\nYou can enable cheats in your game by pressing Ctrl+⇧ Shift+C (Windows) or ⌘ Command+⇧ Shift+C (Mac), typing in testingcheatsenabled true, and pressing ↵ Enter. This will allow you to enter various cheats which may allow you to access special items or physics.\\nWarnings\\nIf you move an object with a cheat, your sims may no longer be able to use it once cheats are disabled.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This wikiHow teaches you how to build a house in The Sims 3. If you'd prefer to use a house that someone else built, you can download a template from The Sims 3 Exchange instead.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building from Scratch\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the type of house you want to build.\", \"描述\": \"Before you dive into creating a house in your game, you should know the style and general appearance you want to use. Other things to keep in mind include the following:\\nNumber of stories\\nApproximate size\\nGeneral materials (e.g., wood, brick, etc.)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider using a model.\", \"描述\": \"Using a real house as a basis for your Sims 3 house's exterior can provide a useful guide in case you're having trouble visualizing what you want your house to look like.\\nYou can find images of houses on real estate sites such as Zillow, or you can simply search Google's images section for pictures of a particular style of house.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Select an empty lot.\", \"描述\": \"Click a lot on which you want to build your house, then click the paint roller-shaped \\\"Build\\\" icon in the resulting pop-up menu.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Familiarize yourself with the Sims 3 house-building interface.\", \"描述\": \"Once the lot opens, the building tab will open at the bottom of the screen; you should see a diagram of a house, along with various house components, listed there.\\nSelecting a specific piece of the house diagram (e.g., the roof) will bring up a list of building options related to the component (for example, clicking the roof will cause several different styles of roof to appear).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Even out the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Click the mound-shaped \\\"Terrain Tools\\\" icon in the house diagram, then click and drag across your lot to select the whole thing before you release the mouse button.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create the foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Click the foundation icon below the house diagram, then click and drag across the lot. This is the base on which your house will rest, and it will determine the shape of your house.\\nIf you want to make an irregular-shaped house (e.g., a house in the shape of an \\\"L\\\"), you can add a piece of foundation to the main foundation by clicking and dragging another section of foundation to connect to the main one.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add walls to your foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Click the house diagram's wall (making sure not to click the window instead), then click and drag your wall all the way around your house. This will create the first floor's outer wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Partition your first floor's rooms.\", \"描述\": \"Using the wall tool, click and drag from the outer wall inward to create dividing walls.\\nExamples of rooms you may wish to create include a kitchen, bedrooms, and a bathroom.\\nThis step isn't necessary if you want to create an open floor plan, though you'll still most likely want to partition off the bathroom.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Add details for each floor.\", \"描述\": \"You can change the appearance of your house's floors by doing the following:\\nClick the floor icon in the house diagram.\\nClick the second tab from the left at the top of the diagram area.\\nSelect a texture you want to use for your floor.\\nClick and drag across the floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Detail the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Much like you did for the floors, you can add textures, wallpaper, and more to your walls:\\nClick the wall icon in the house diagram.\\nSelect one of the tabs at the top of the wall section.\\nClick (or, depending on the texture, click and drag across) the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Add and decorate a second floor if needed.\", \"描述\": \"To add a floor to your house, click the floor section (above the foundation) of the house diagram, then click and drag across your house's outline.\\nYou can repeat this process to add subsequent stories as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Add doors and windows.\", \"描述\": \"Click the door or window icon in the house diagram, then select a part of your house to add the door or window, then repeat as needed.\\nYou may first want to select a different door or window preset in the toolbar at the bottom of the screen.\\nYou can also add doors to walls inside your house.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Put a roof on your house.\", \"描述\": \"Click the roof icon in the house diagram, then select a roof template and click and drag across the top of your house to apply the roof.\\nIf you want to add intersecting roofs to extend your roof to cover an extended part of the house, you can repeat this process by dragging a new roof perpendicular to the existing roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Apply textures to your house's exterior.\", \"描述\": \"The final design element for your house is the exterior appearance. You can change the way your house's outside walls, doors, windows, roof, and other aspects look by doing the following:\\nSelect the part of the house you want to detail (e.g., the door or the wall) in the house diagram.\\nClick a tab to view available textures (e.g., ).\\nSelect a texture.\\nSelect the part of the house to apply the texture.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Decorate your house.\", \"描述\": \"Now that your house's structure is complete, all that's left to do is add furniture, interior decorations, and any other details you want to apply. You can do this by clicking the furniture tab above the \\\"Build\\\" tab at the bottom of the screen, selecting different tabs to view their related pieces of furniture or decorations, selecting a piece of furniture or decor, and selecting a space in your house.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using a Template\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Open the Sims 3 Exchange site.\", \"描述\": \"Go to thesims3.com/exchange/lots in your computer's web browser.\\nUnfortunately, you won't be able to use this method on the console versions of The Sims 3.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Log in.\", \"描述\": \"If you aren't automatically logged into the Sims 3 Exchange site, click in the top-left corner of the page, then enter your email address and password and click .\\nIf you haven't yet created a Sims 3 account, click the link in the top-right corner of the window, then follow the on-screen instructions to create an account.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Browse the available houses.\", \"描述\": \"Near the bottom of the page, you'll see a list of available house templates; you can click a house's thumbnail to view it at the top of the page, and you can skip to the next page of templates by clicking the page number in the top-right corner of the house preview section.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select a house.\", \"描述\": \"Once you decide on a house, click its thumbnail in the house preview section to open it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Click ADD TO GAME.\", \"描述\": \"It's to the right of the house preview. Doing so will open The Sims 3's launcher in a new window.\\nMake sure that The Sims 3's disc is in your computer if you're playing off of a CD.\\nIf prompted to register your game, go to https://www.thesims3.com/registeragame.html and enter your Sims 3 serial code, then click . You can then go back to the house's page and click again.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Click the Downloads tab.\", \"描述\": \"This option is on the left side of the launcher window.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make sure the house's box is checked.\", \"描述\": \"If you don't see a check in the box to the left of the house's icon in the launcher window, click the box to check it before proceeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Click Install.\", \"描述\": \"It's at the bottom of the launcher window. The house file will begin adding to your Sims 3 game.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Uncheck the \\\"Run without custom content\\\" box.\", \"描述\": \"This box is at the top of the launcher window.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add the house to your Sims 3 game.\", \"描述\": \"Once the house has finished installing and you've opened your Sims 3 game, you can add the house to any empty lot you own by doing the following:\\nClick in the bottom-left corner of the screen, then click in the pop-up menu.\\nClick if prompted.\\nClick the house-shaped tab in the middle of the list of tabs at the bottom of the screen.\\nSelect your downloaded house, then click .\\nSelect a lot for your house, then wait for the house to appear.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can enable cheats in your game by pressing Ctrl+⇧ Shift+C (Windows) or ⌘ Command+⇧ Shift+C (Mac), typing in testingcheatsenabled true, and pressing ↵ Enter. This will allow you to enter various cheats which may allow you to access special items or physics.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you move an object with a cheat, your sims may no longer be able to use it once cheats are disabled.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,293 |
How to Build a Copper Bird Feeder Pole
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1. Steps
1-1. Decide on the height.
The starting point is deciding how tall you want the structure so you will know how much pipe is needed. A good size is a pole that is about 8 feet (2.4 m) tall so the feeders hang at between 5 and 7 feet from the ground.
1-2. In addition to the 8 feet (2.4 m) above ground, you will also need about 2 feet (0.6 m) of pipe to drive into the ground; this is the support for the structure and also allows the above ground section to be removed and modified, or swiveled if you like.
Try using a hammer and block of wood to hammer the 2 foot (0.6 m) section into the ground about 1.5 feet (0.5 m) deep. The wood is used so you do not hit the pipe directly with the hammer which would bend the pipe.
1-3. Solder a simple coupler (sleeve) once the pipe is driven to an adequate depth, over the end of the pipe so the upper half of the structure can slide in and out of the coupler as needed and be supported by the pipe in the ground.
1-4. Decide how many "limbs" you want.
(Remember that the more limbs, the more breaks you need in the main pole which will create more movement at the top. You also want to try to equalize the weight distribution of the feeders to each side of the pole so it does not lean over time.) You can decide to have three limbs, two at about 7 feet (2.1 m) and then another off the very top. From this point, you simply cut the main pipe at the height you want the first limb and attach a "T" fitting so you have the ability to add another pipe perpendicular to the main pole. Then add another length of pipe into the "T" fitting that will extend the main pole to the height of the second limb and repeat as desired.
1-5. Prepare and add the actual limbs that you will hang the feeders or houses on.
The further out you want your feeders hung, the less weight the pipe will bear. This image shows somebody using 1" copper pipe which seems to be holding the weight well but it is a soft metal and will kink easily so it is not suggested making the limbs more than 12 or 18 inches (30.5 or 45.7 cm) long. A good idea is to find a way to secure the feeders in such a way that they could spin easily for a different look and could be removed for cleaning and filling. The easiest way some would think to do this was to drill a hole in the bottom of each arm about an inch from the end. A hole is drilled large enough for a deck nail shaft to fit but not the head. Taking a pair of vice grips, the nails are bent so the pointed end acts as a hook which can be fed through the inside of the hole drilled in the pipe so the nail hook is suspended by its head and can spin freely.
1-6. Slide each arm into its respective "T" fitting, stand your pole with the limbs attached into the base coupler and you are ready to hang your feeders on the hooks.
Tips
Use a piece of rebar instead of copper pipe for the portion driven into the ground. You can get it cut to length at many hardware stores. Leave at least 2–3 feet (0.6–0.9 m) sticking out of the ground, and simply slide the copper pipe onto it. Rebar is strong enough to hammer directly into the ground, is a lot cheaper than copper, and will help to keep your copper pipe from kinking or bending under load. You may want to wrap the upper part of the rebar with tape for a snug fit to the copper.
If you do not like the look of new copper or want this structure to have the look of being weathered, you can spray salt water on the pipe and expedite the patina to have that old copper look.
You can try to add the ability to move the feeders around on a regular basis or add more as time goes on so you do not solder every joint. The pole does have some give at each joint and if you want to add a lot of limbs you may find the structure flimsy. You can solder each joint to sturdy the pole if needed but with the limbs being high on the structure, usually, you should not have any issues.
Warnings
If you do put anything on the pole to keep away squirrels, make sure it is not toxic.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Decide on the height.\\nThe starting point is deciding how tall you want the structure so you will know how much pipe is needed. A good size is a pole that is about 8 feet (2.4 m) tall so the feeders hang at between 5 and 7 feet from the ground.\\n1-2. In addition to the 8 feet (2.4 m) above ground, you will also need about 2 feet (0.6 m) of pipe to drive into the ground; this is the support for the structure and also allows the above ground section to be removed and modified, or swiveled if you like.\\nTry using a hammer and block of wood to hammer the 2 foot (0.6 m) section into the ground about 1.5 feet (0.5 m) deep. The wood is used so you do not hit the pipe directly with the hammer which would bend the pipe.\\n1-3. Solder a simple coupler (sleeve) once the pipe is driven to an adequate depth, over the end of the pipe so the upper half of the structure can slide in and out of the coupler as needed and be supported by the pipe in the ground.\\n\\n1-4. Decide how many \\\"limbs\\\" you want.\\n(Remember that the more limbs, the more breaks you need in the main pole which will create more movement at the top. You also want to try to equalize the weight distribution of the feeders to each side of the pole so it does not lean over time.) You can decide to have three limbs, two at about 7 feet (2.1 m) and then another off the very top. From this point, you simply cut the main pipe at the height you want the first limb and attach a \\\"T\\\" fitting so you have the ability to add another pipe perpendicular to the main pole. Then add another length of pipe into the \\\"T\\\" fitting that will extend the main pole to the height of the second limb and repeat as desired.\\n1-5. Prepare and add the actual limbs that you will hang the feeders or houses on.\\nThe further out you want your feeders hung, the less weight the pipe will bear. This image shows somebody using 1\\\" copper pipe which seems to be holding the weight well but it is a soft metal and will kink easily so it is not suggested making the limbs more than 12 or 18 inches (30.5 or 45.7 cm) long. A good idea is to find a way to secure the feeders in such a way that they could spin easily for a different look and could be removed for cleaning and filling. The easiest way some would think to do this was to drill a hole in the bottom of each arm about an inch from the end. A hole is drilled large enough for a deck nail shaft to fit but not the head. Taking a pair of vice grips, the nails are bent so the pointed end acts as a hook which can be fed through the inside of the hole drilled in the pipe so the nail hook is suspended by its head and can spin freely.\\n1-6. Slide each arm into its respective \\\"T\\\" fitting, stand your pole with the limbs attached into the base coupler and you are ready to hang your feeders on the hooks.\\n\\nTips\\nUse a piece of rebar instead of copper pipe for the portion driven into the ground. You can get it cut to length at many hardware stores. Leave at least 2–3 feet (0.6–0.9 m) sticking out of the ground, and simply slide the copper pipe onto it. Rebar is strong enough to hammer directly into the ground, is a lot cheaper than copper, and will help to keep your copper pipe from kinking or bending under load. You may want to wrap the upper part of the rebar with tape for a snug fit to the copper.\\nIf you do not like the look of new copper or want this structure to have the look of being weathered, you can spray salt water on the pipe and expedite the patina to have that old copper look.\\nYou can try to add the ability to move the feeders around on a regular basis or add more as time goes on so you do not solder every joint. The pole does have some give at each joint and if you want to add a lot of limbs you may find the structure flimsy. You can solder each joint to sturdy the pole if needed but with the limbs being high on the structure, usually, you should not have any issues.\\nWarnings\\nIf you do put anything on the pole to keep away squirrels, make sure it is not toxic.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Attracting wildlife to your surroundings can be fun and educational. These instructions will teach you how to construct a beautiful, functional, and adjustable pole on which to hang bird feeders and bird houses.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide on the height.\", \"描述\": \"The starting point is deciding how tall you want the structure so you will know how much pipe is needed. A good size is a pole that is about 8 feet (2.4 m) tall so the feeders hang at between 5 and 7 feet from the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"In addition to the 8 feet (2.4 m) above ground, you will also need about 2 feet (0.6 m) of pipe to drive into the ground; this is the support for the structure and also allows the above ground section to be removed and modified, or swiveled if you like.\", \"描述\": \"Try using a hammer and block of wood to hammer the 2 foot (0.6 m) section into the ground about 1.5 feet (0.5 m) deep. The wood is used so you do not hit the pipe directly with the hammer which would bend the pipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Solder a simple coupler (sleeve) once the pipe is driven to an adequate depth, over the end of the pipe so the upper half of the structure can slide in and out of the coupler as needed and be supported by the pipe in the ground.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decide how many \\\"limbs\\\" you want.\", \"描述\": \"(Remember that the more limbs, the more breaks you need in the main pole which will create more movement at the top. You also want to try to equalize the weight distribution of the feeders to each side of the pole so it does not lean over time.) You can decide to have three limbs, two at about 7 feet (2.1 m) and then another off the very top. From this point, you simply cut the main pipe at the height you want the first limb and attach a \\\"T\\\" fitting so you have the ability to add another pipe perpendicular to the main pole. Then add another length of pipe into the \\\"T\\\" fitting that will extend the main pole to the height of the second limb and repeat as desired.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Prepare and add the actual limbs that you will hang the feeders or houses on.\", \"描述\": \"The further out you want your feeders hung, the less weight the pipe will bear. This image shows somebody using 1\\\" copper pipe which seems to be holding the weight well but it is a soft metal and will kink easily so it is not suggested making the limbs more than 12 or 18 inches (30.5 or 45.7 cm) long. A good idea is to find a way to secure the feeders in such a way that they could spin easily for a different look and could be removed for cleaning and filling. The easiest way some would think to do this was to drill a hole in the bottom of each arm about an inch from the end. A hole is drilled large enough for a deck nail shaft to fit but not the head. Taking a pair of vice grips, the nails are bent so the pointed end acts as a hook which can be fed through the inside of the hole drilled in the pipe so the nail hook is suspended by its head and can spin freely.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Slide each arm into its respective \\\"T\\\" fitting, stand your pole with the limbs attached into the base coupler and you are ready to hang your feeders on the hooks.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use a piece of rebar instead of copper pipe for the portion driven into the ground. You can get it cut to length at many hardware stores. Leave at least 2–3 feet (0.6–0.9 m) sticking out of the ground, and simply slide the copper pipe onto it. Rebar is strong enough to hammer directly into the ground, is a lot cheaper than copper, and will help to keep your copper pipe from kinking or bending under load. You may want to wrap the upper part of the rebar with tape for a snug fit to the copper.\\n\", \"If you do not like the look of new copper or want this structure to have the look of being weathered, you can spray salt water on the pipe and expedite the patina to have that old copper look.\\n\", \"You can try to add the ability to move the feeders around on a regular basis or add more as time goes on so you do not solder every joint. The pole does have some give at each joint and if you want to add a lot of limbs you may find the structure flimsy. You can solder each joint to sturdy the pole if needed but with the limbs being high on the structure, usually, you should not have any issues.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you do put anything on the pole to keep away squirrels, make sure it is not toxic.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,294 |
How to Build a Corner Cabinet
|
1. Steps
1-1. Create a plan that includes the dimensions of the corner cabinet, the type of wood that you will use and what tools you will need to complete the project.
The dimensions of the two side pieces should be: 84 inches (213.36 cm) high by 22 inches (55.88 cm) wide and 84 inches (213.36 cm) high by 21.25 inches (53.98 cm) wide. The dimensions of the triangular top and bottom pieces are (side by side by hypotenuse) 22 inches (55.88 cm) by 22 inches (55.88 cm) by 31.11 inches (79.02 cm). The dimensions of the triangular shelves are 21 inches (53.34 cm) by 21 inches (53.34 cm) by 29.70 inches (75.44 cm).
1-2. Measure the dimensions of the cabinet top, bottom and side pieces on a piece of paper.
Cut out the pieces, then trace them onto your sheets of wood.
1-3. Cut out the top and bottom pieces, the side pieces and the shelves using a table saw or circular saw.
1-4. Attach your side pieces together.
Lay the smaller side piece that is 21.25 inches (53.98 cm) wide on the floor. Stand the wider side on its edge right next to the smaller side piece. Make sure that the edges match up for a tight fit.
Nail through the face of the wider side piece into the edge of the smaller piece. Make sure that the nail goes in perfectly straight so there is no damage to either piece of wood. Your side pieces should now make a "V" shape.
1-5. Attach the top and bottom pieces to the side piece.
Stand the side pieces up on end. Take the triangular top piece and lay it on the top of the side pieces. Make sure that the edges are perfectly aligned for a clean finish.
Nail the pieces together making sure that the nail goes in perfectly straight so there is no damage to either piece of wood. Repeat this process for attaching the bottom piece.
1-6. Measure where you would like to place your shelves from the bottom up.
The spacing between the shelves should be 16.5 inches (41.91 cm). From the bottom, measure up 16.5 inches (41.91 cm), and mark the spot on the back of the cabinet. From that first mark, measure up another 16.5 inches (41.91 cm) and mark that spot. Follow that process 3 more times, for a total of 5 times.
1-7. Pre-drill small holes where you marked the shelve locations.
Using a level, make sure that the shelves are level. Nail through the pre-drilled holes in order to attach each shelf to the cabinet. Again, make sure that you nail with precision.
1-8. Sand all of the surfaces of the cabinet using a rough-grit piece of sandpaper to remove any rough spots or blemishes in the wood.
Repeat with a finer grit of sandpaper to get a smooth surface.
1-9. Apply the stain of your choice carefully with a rag.
Make sure that the stain is applied evenly and that there are no drip marks. Apply as many coats of stain as needed, letting each coat dry completely each time.
1-10. Attach the cabinet to the corner walls, using proper anchor bolts.
This will prevent the cabinet from moving and shifting. Try to attach the cabinet to the studs in the wall.
Tips
Always wear eye protection when working with tools.
Make sure that you exercise good safety practices when using any power tools and hand tools.
Work on a large level surface when building your cabinet.
Warnings
Make sure you measure twice and cut once when cutting out your pieces from the sheet wood. For accuracy reasons, check your measurements often.
When making your cuts, make sure that all of the cut edges are square. If one of your cut edges is not completely square, then it will throw off how tightly the pieces of the finished product fit together.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Create a plan that includes the dimensions of the corner cabinet, the type of wood that you will use and what tools you will need to complete the project.\\nThe dimensions of the two side pieces should be: 84 inches (213.36 cm) high by 22 inches (55.88 cm) wide and 84 inches (213.36 cm) high by 21.25 inches (53.98 cm) wide. The dimensions of the triangular top and bottom pieces are (side by side by hypotenuse) 22 inches (55.88 cm) by 22 inches (55.88 cm) by 31.11 inches (79.02 cm). The dimensions of the triangular shelves are 21 inches (53.34 cm) by 21 inches (53.34 cm) by 29.70 inches (75.44 cm).\\n1-2. Measure the dimensions of the cabinet top, bottom and side pieces on a piece of paper.\\nCut out the pieces, then trace them onto your sheets of wood.\\n1-3. Cut out the top and bottom pieces, the side pieces and the shelves using a table saw or circular saw.\\n\\n1-4. Attach your side pieces together.\\nLay the smaller side piece that is 21.25 inches (53.98 cm) wide on the floor. Stand the wider side on its edge right next to the smaller side piece. Make sure that the edges match up for a tight fit.\\nNail through the face of the wider side piece into the edge of the smaller piece. Make sure that the nail goes in perfectly straight so there is no damage to either piece of wood. Your side pieces should now make a \\\"V\\\" shape.\\n1-5. Attach the top and bottom pieces to the side piece.\\nStand the side pieces up on end. Take the triangular top piece and lay it on the top of the side pieces. Make sure that the edges are perfectly aligned for a clean finish.\\nNail the pieces together making sure that the nail goes in perfectly straight so there is no damage to either piece of wood. Repeat this process for attaching the bottom piece.\\n1-6. Measure where you would like to place your shelves from the bottom up.\\nThe spacing between the shelves should be 16.5 inches (41.91 cm). From the bottom, measure up 16.5 inches (41.91 cm), and mark the spot on the back of the cabinet. From that first mark, measure up another 16.5 inches (41.91 cm) and mark that spot. Follow that process 3 more times, for a total of 5 times.\\n1-7. Pre-drill small holes where you marked the shelve locations.\\nUsing a level, make sure that the shelves are level. Nail through the pre-drilled holes in order to attach each shelf to the cabinet. Again, make sure that you nail with precision.\\n1-8. Sand all of the surfaces of the cabinet using a rough-grit piece of sandpaper to remove any rough spots or blemishes in the wood.\\nRepeat with a finer grit of sandpaper to get a smooth surface.\\n1-9. Apply the stain of your choice carefully with a rag.\\nMake sure that the stain is applied evenly and that there are no drip marks. Apply as many coats of stain as needed, letting each coat dry completely each time.\\n1-10. Attach the cabinet to the corner walls, using proper anchor bolts.\\nThis will prevent the cabinet from moving and shifting. Try to attach the cabinet to the studs in the wall.\\nTips\\nAlways wear eye protection when working with tools.\\nMake sure that you exercise good safety practices when using any power tools and hand tools.\\nWork on a large level surface when building your cabinet.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure you measure twice and cut once when cutting out your pieces from the sheet wood. For accuracy reasons, check your measurements often.\\nWhen making your cuts, make sure that all of the cut edges are square. If one of your cut edges is not completely square, then it will throw off how tightly the pieces of the finished product fit together.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Corner cabinets can add storage and display space in any room without being too intrusive to the room. Corner cabinets are generally triangular in shape to fit right in the corner of your bathroom. Corner cabinets are sometimes on some legs or sometimes can be stuck to the wall floating off the floor.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a plan that includes the dimensions of the corner cabinet, the type of wood that you will use and what tools you will need to complete the project.\", \"描述\": \"The dimensions of the two side pieces should be: 84 inches (213.36 cm) high by 22 inches (55.88 cm) wide and 84 inches (213.36 cm) high by 21.25 inches (53.98 cm) wide. The dimensions of the triangular top and bottom pieces are (side by side by hypotenuse) 22 inches (55.88 cm) by 22 inches (55.88 cm) by 31.11 inches (79.02 cm). The dimensions of the triangular shelves are 21 inches (53.34 cm) by 21 inches (53.34 cm) by 29.70 inches (75.44 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure the dimensions of the cabinet top, bottom and side pieces on a piece of paper.\", \"描述\": \"Cut out the pieces, then trace them onto your sheets of wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut out the top and bottom pieces, the side pieces and the shelves using a table saw or circular saw.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach your side pieces together.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the smaller side piece that is 21.25 inches (53.98 cm) wide on the floor. Stand the wider side on its edge right next to the smaller side piece. Make sure that the edges match up for a tight fit.\\nNail through the face of the wider side piece into the edge of the smaller piece. Make sure that the nail goes in perfectly straight so there is no damage to either piece of wood. Your side pieces should now make a \\\"V\\\" shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the top and bottom pieces to the side piece.\", \"描述\": \"Stand the side pieces up on end. Take the triangular top piece and lay it on the top of the side pieces. Make sure that the edges are perfectly aligned for a clean finish.\\nNail the pieces together making sure that the nail goes in perfectly straight so there is no damage to either piece of wood. Repeat this process for attaching the bottom piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Measure where you would like to place your shelves from the bottom up.\", \"描述\": \"The spacing between the shelves should be 16.5 inches (41.91 cm). From the bottom, measure up 16.5 inches (41.91 cm), and mark the spot on the back of the cabinet. From that first mark, measure up another 16.5 inches (41.91 cm) and mark that spot. Follow that process 3 more times, for a total of 5 times.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Pre-drill small holes where you marked the shelve locations.\", \"描述\": \"Using a level, make sure that the shelves are level. Nail through the pre-drilled holes in order to attach each shelf to the cabinet. Again, make sure that you nail with precision.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Sand all of the surfaces of the cabinet using a rough-grit piece of sandpaper to remove any rough spots or blemishes in the wood.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat with a finer grit of sandpaper to get a smooth surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Apply the stain of your choice carefully with a rag.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the stain is applied evenly and that there are no drip marks. Apply as many coats of stain as needed, letting each coat dry completely each time.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Attach the cabinet to the corner walls, using proper anchor bolts.\", \"描述\": \"This will prevent the cabinet from moving and shifting. Try to attach the cabinet to the studs in the wall.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Always wear eye protection when working with tools.\\n\", \"Make sure that you exercise good safety practices when using any power tools and hand tools.\\n\", \"Work on a large level surface when building your cabinet.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure you measure twice and cut once when cutting out your pieces from the sheet wood. For accuracy reasons, check your measurements often.\\n\", \"When making your cuts, make sure that all of the cut edges are square. If one of your cut edges is not completely square, then it will throw off how tightly the pieces of the finished product fit together.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,295 |
How to Build a Cornhole Game
|
1. Building the Board Top
1-1. Build the top.
You will need a sheet of plywood that is 24 inches (61.0 cm) by 48 inches (121.9 cm). This is the standard size that is promoted by the American Cornhole Organization (ACO).
1-2. Measure 12 inches (30.5 cm) from one side, and 9 inches (22.9 cm) from the end that you decide will be the top.
Mark this spot with your pencil. This marked spot will be the center of your cornhole.
1-3. Draw the hole.
Use a drawing compass to draw a 6-inch diameter hole (3 inch radius). Place the point of the drawing compass on the dot you marked out in the previous step. Spread the compass so that it is 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide and draw a circle. The point of the compass should not leave the board.
If you do not have a drawing compass, place a thumbtack over the pencil mark you have made. Place a piece of string under the thumbtack and push the thumbtack down so it holds the string in place. With a ruler, measure 3 inches (7.6 cm) away from the thumbtack, starting at the very center of the thumbtack. Tie a pencil to the string, making sure that the distance between the pencil tip and thumbtack is 3 inches (7.6 cm). Draw your circle.
1-4. Drill a hole right on the inside of the circle you have just made, up against the pencil circle.
Make sure the hole does not go outside the pencil mark. This hole will act as the starting point for your saw.
1-5. Insert the blade of your jigsaw and cut the hole.
Try to cut as close to the penciled circle as possible. Your cut may not be perfect but that is ok because you can clean it up with sandpaper.
You can also cut the hole using a hole saw or a router.
1-6. Wrap a piece of sandpaper around a cylinder of some sort.
The handle of a hammer or a thin pipe will work. Run the sandpaper along the interior edges of the hole to smooth your cut out and make it even.
2. Building and Attaching the Frame
2-1. Cut all of your wood.
You will need six 2x4 pieces of wood to make one board. Use a mitre saw or a hand saw to cut the boards. Always use caution when using power tools. Don’t forget to factor in the saw’s blade width.
If you are not familiar with using a mitre or hand saw, ask an employee at the lumberyard to cut your wood for you. Make sure you bring the correct measurements to the lumberyard.
2-2. Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 21 inches (53.3 cm) long (these will be the ends of the frame).
Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 48 inches (121.9 cm) long (these will be the sides of the frame). Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 16 inches (40.6 cm) long (these will be the legs that will be used later).
2-3. Build the frame.
Place the 21-inch boards in between the 48-inch boards.
2-4. Using the drill and 2 ½ inch wood screws, screw the boards together by drilling from the outside of the 48-inch board into the end of the 21-inch board where both boards meet.
Use two screws for each corner.
Drill your holes with a drill bit that is slightly smaller than your screws. This ensures that your wood won’t split when you drill the screws in, and allows the screws to go into the wood more easily.
2-5. Place your board top on top of the frame.
Again, before drilling in your screws, drill holes with a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screws you will be using.
2-6. Use 10 long drywall screws to attach the board top to the frame.
Use 4 screws across the top, 4 screws across the bottom, and 2 on each side.
2-7. Countersink
3. Building and Attaching the Legs
3-1. Take one of the 16-inch pieces of wood.
Estimate where your bolt will pass through by using a ruler. Measure the width of your piece of wood and locate the exact middle. Keep in mind that a 2x4 is not actually 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 4 inches (10.2 cm). Your midway point (middle of the wood) should be close to 1 ¾ inches. (To make things clear, let us say that the middle of the width is 1 3/4 inches.)
3-2. Place the ruler at the end of your wood and measure 1 ⁄4 inches (4.4 cm) (or whatever the length to the middle of the board was in the previous step.
) Make a mark indicating this measurement. From that mark, draw a line going across the width of the wood. Extend your previous mark so that both lines form a ‘t’ and are perpendicular to one another.
3-3. Take your drawing compass (or homemade drawing compass) and place the point directly in the center of the ‘t’ you have just made.
Draw a half circle with the curve starting on the side of the board, arching up to the top of the board, and then arching back down to the other side of the board.
3-4. Turn your cornhole table over so that it is face down.
Take a piece of scrap wood (use a leftover piece of a cut 2x4) and place it against one of the top corners of your table so it lays flat against the top (i.e. it should not run parallel to the side of the frame).
3-5. Place one of the legs against the scrap wood so that it lies with the markings you have made facing outward.
It should be perpendicular to the piece of scrap wood (i.e. it should be parallel to the side of the frame).
3-6. Transfer the leg’s midpoint line onto the frame.
Use a straightedge or ruler and draw the line with a pencil. Find the frame’s middle with a ruler and mark it along the line you have just made. Do not include the plywood board in the measurement, just the 2x4 frame.
This intersection will be where the drill bolt goes.
3-7. Make a small hole at the intersection point with an extra screw.
This will help you guide your screw or bolt into the correct position.
3-8. Using a drill or power driver, drill a screw or bolt through the mark you have made.
Make sure it goes through the frame and into the leg. Add the other leg in the same way.
3-9. Measure from the top of the board to the ground.
If it is not 12 inches (30.5 cm), mark where you must cut the legs so that the board is 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the ground.
3-10. Flip the board back over and saw the legs to your measurement.
Saw the legs at an angle so that they run parallel to the ground. Sand them if your cut is slightly jagged.
4. Painting the Board
4-1. Use a putty knife to put wood filler into any holes or cracks on your board.
Check the filler’s box for instructions on how long to let it dry. The surface of your cornhole board should be as smooth as possible. If you put too much filler in a crack, it can be sanded down once it is dried.
4-2. Sand the surface of your table.
A smooth table will allow bean bags to slide better. Use an electric sander if you have one. If you don’t have one, medium grit sandpaper will work well.
4-3. Apply a thin layer of primer paint to all visible surfaces of the board and legs.
You can use a paintbrush or roller. Let the primer dry. The primer will dry white.
4-4. Add a layer of white high-gloss latex paint.
This layer will act as the border if you are following a traditional cornhole design. Let this layer dry.
4-5. Pick out your paint colors and design.
The traditional cornhole table has a white border 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide. It also has a 1.5-inch border around the circle. Use painters tape and cover whatever you want to stay white with the tape.
4-6. Paint the rest of your board with whatever color you choose.
Make sure to use high-gloss latex paint. This type of paint will leave your board smooth so the bean bags will be able to slide more easily. Let the paint dry. If your paint is too light for your liking, add more layers.
If you decide not to do the traditional paint pattern, get creative! Use painters tape to create shapes that you can paint on or around. Use bright colors and make your cornhole board stand out in a crowd.
5. Making the Bean Bags
5-1. Gather your supplies.
You will need a large piece of duck cloth (you can generally purchase swaths of duck cloth that are 7 inches wide and 56 inches long.) You will also need scissors, a ruler, a sewing machine, fabric glue, a bag of feed corn, and a digital baking scale.
You can also use a needle and thread if you do not have a sewing machine.
5-2. Cut the duck cloth into 7-inch by 7-inch squares.
Using your ruler, measure out 7 inches (17.8 cm) at a time to make sure you are accurate. You should make 8 of these squares.
5-3. Match 2 of the squares up so that they are perfectly aligned.
Using either a sewing machine or a needle and thread, sew 3 of the sides closed. Keep in mind that you should be sewing 1/2 an inch in from the edge of the squares.
5-4. Put a line of fabric glue in between the edges of the two squares.
Only do this on the sides that you have sewn up. Even though you have sewed these sides, gluing the extra fabric together will make it less likely that your bean bags will leak.
5-5. Flip your bag inside out.
Again, flipping your bag inside out makes it less likely that your corn will leak out.
5-6. Add 15.5 ounces of feed corn to each bag.
Place the feed corn onto your digital baking scale and add or remove corn until it weighs 15.5 ounces. Then put the corn into the bag.
If you do not have a digital baking scale, 2 cups of feed corn is very close to 15.5 ounces. It may not be exact but it will be close enough.
5-7. Measure 1/2 an inch in on the side that is still open.
Fold the ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) edges into the bag and hold closed. You can use a pin to hold the edges closed.
5-8. Sew the final side shut.
Try to place your stitches as close to the edge as possible. Doing this will make the bag as evenly sized as possible.
Tips
Your local lumber store will most likely cut the 2 x 4s to length for you... this is far less expensive than buying the proper power saw if you don't own it.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Board Top\\n1-1. Build the top.\\nYou will need a sheet of plywood that is 24 inches (61.0 cm) by 48 inches (121.9 cm). This is the standard size that is promoted by the American Cornhole Organization (ACO).\\n1-2. Measure 12 inches (30.5 cm) from one side, and 9 inches (22.9 cm) from the end that you decide will be the top.\\nMark this spot with your pencil. This marked spot will be the center of your cornhole.\\n1-3. Draw the hole.\\nUse a drawing compass to draw a 6-inch diameter hole (3 inch radius). Place the point of the drawing compass on the dot you marked out in the previous step. Spread the compass so that it is 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide and draw a circle. The point of the compass should not leave the board.\\nIf you do not have a drawing compass, place a thumbtack over the pencil mark you have made. Place a piece of string under the thumbtack and push the thumbtack down so it holds the string in place. With a ruler, measure 3 inches (7.6 cm) away from the thumbtack, starting at the very center of the thumbtack. Tie a pencil to the string, making sure that the distance between the pencil tip and thumbtack is 3 inches (7.6 cm). Draw your circle.\\n1-4. Drill a hole right on the inside of the circle you have just made, up against the pencil circle.\\nMake sure the hole does not go outside the pencil mark. This hole will act as the starting point for your saw.\\n1-5. Insert the blade of your jigsaw and cut the hole.\\nTry to cut as close to the penciled circle as possible. Your cut may not be perfect but that is ok because you can clean it up with sandpaper.\\nYou can also cut the hole using a hole saw or a router.\\n1-6. Wrap a piece of sandpaper around a cylinder of some sort.\\nThe handle of a hammer or a thin pipe will work. Run the sandpaper along the interior edges of the hole to smooth your cut out and make it even.\\n2. Building and Attaching the Frame\\n2-1. Cut all of your wood.\\nYou will need six 2x4 pieces of wood to make one board. Use a mitre saw or a hand saw to cut the boards. Always use caution when using power tools. Don’t forget to factor in the saw’s blade width.\\nIf you are not familiar with using a mitre or hand saw, ask an employee at the lumberyard to cut your wood for you. Make sure you bring the correct measurements to the lumberyard.\\n2-2. Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 21 inches (53.3 cm) long (these will be the ends of the frame).\\nCut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 48 inches (121.9 cm) long (these will be the sides of the frame). Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 16 inches (40.6 cm) long (these will be the legs that will be used later).\\n2-3. Build the frame.\\nPlace the 21-inch boards in between the 48-inch boards.\\n2-4. Using the drill and 2 ½ inch wood screws, screw the boards together by drilling from the outside of the 48-inch board into the end of the 21-inch board where both boards meet.\\nUse two screws for each corner.\\nDrill your holes with a drill bit that is slightly smaller than your screws. This ensures that your wood won’t split when you drill the screws in, and allows the screws to go into the wood more easily.\\n2-5. Place your board top on top of the frame.\\nAgain, before drilling in your screws, drill holes with a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screws you will be using.\\n2-6. Use 10 long drywall screws to attach the board top to the frame.\\nUse 4 screws across the top, 4 screws across the bottom, and 2 on each side.\\n2-7. Countersink\\n\\n3. Building and Attaching the Legs\\n3-1. Take one of the 16-inch pieces of wood.\\nEstimate where your bolt will pass through by using a ruler. Measure the width of your piece of wood and locate the exact middle. Keep in mind that a 2x4 is not actually 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 4 inches (10.2 cm). Your midway point (middle of the wood) should be close to 1 ¾ inches. (To make things clear, let us say that the middle of the width is 1 3/4 inches.)\\n3-2. Place the ruler at the end of your wood and measure 1 ⁄4 inches (4.4 cm) (or whatever the length to the middle of the board was in the previous step.\\n) Make a mark indicating this measurement. From that mark, draw a line going across the width of the wood. Extend your previous mark so that both lines form a ‘t’ and are perpendicular to one another.\\n3-3. Take your drawing compass (or homemade drawing compass) and place the point directly in the center of the ‘t’ you have just made.\\nDraw a half circle with the curve starting on the side of the board, arching up to the top of the board, and then arching back down to the other side of the board.\\n3-4. Turn your cornhole table over so that it is face down.\\nTake a piece of scrap wood (use a leftover piece of a cut 2x4) and place it against one of the top corners of your table so it lays flat against the top (i.e. it should not run parallel to the side of the frame).\\n3-5. Place one of the legs against the scrap wood so that it lies with the markings you have made facing outward.\\nIt should be perpendicular to the piece of scrap wood (i.e. it should be parallel to the side of the frame).\\n3-6. Transfer the leg’s midpoint line onto the frame.\\nUse a straightedge or ruler and draw the line with a pencil. Find the frame’s middle with a ruler and mark it along the line you have just made. Do not include the plywood board in the measurement, just the 2x4 frame.\\nThis intersection will be where the drill bolt goes.\\n3-7. Make a small hole at the intersection point with an extra screw.\\nThis will help you guide your screw or bolt into the correct position.\\n3-8. Using a drill or power driver, drill a screw or bolt through the mark you have made.\\nMake sure it goes through the frame and into the leg. Add the other leg in the same way.\\n3-9. Measure from the top of the board to the ground.\\nIf it is not 12 inches (30.5 cm), mark where you must cut the legs so that the board is 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the ground.\\n3-10. Flip the board back over and saw the legs to your measurement.\\nSaw the legs at an angle so that they run parallel to the ground. Sand them if your cut is slightly jagged.\\n4. Painting the Board\\n4-1. Use a putty knife to put wood filler into any holes or cracks on your board.\\nCheck the filler’s box for instructions on how long to let it dry. The surface of your cornhole board should be as smooth as possible. If you put too much filler in a crack, it can be sanded down once it is dried.\\n4-2. Sand the surface of your table.\\nA smooth table will allow bean bags to slide better. Use an electric sander if you have one. If you don’t have one, medium grit sandpaper will work well.\\n4-3. Apply a thin layer of primer paint to all visible surfaces of the board and legs.\\nYou can use a paintbrush or roller. Let the primer dry. The primer will dry white.\\n4-4. Add a layer of white high-gloss latex paint.\\nThis layer will act as the border if you are following a traditional cornhole design. Let this layer dry.\\n4-5. Pick out your paint colors and design.\\nThe traditional cornhole table has a white border 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide. It also has a 1.5-inch border around the circle. Use painters tape and cover whatever you want to stay white with the tape.\\n4-6. Paint the rest of your board with whatever color you choose.\\nMake sure to use high-gloss latex paint. This type of paint will leave your board smooth so the bean bags will be able to slide more easily. Let the paint dry. If your paint is too light for your liking, add more layers.\\nIf you decide not to do the traditional paint pattern, get creative! Use painters tape to create shapes that you can paint on or around. Use bright colors and make your cornhole board stand out in a crowd.\\n5. Making the Bean Bags\\n5-1. Gather your supplies.\\nYou will need a large piece of duck cloth (you can generally purchase swaths of duck cloth that are 7 inches wide and 56 inches long.) You will also need scissors, a ruler, a sewing machine, fabric glue, a bag of feed corn, and a digital baking scale.\\nYou can also use a needle and thread if you do not have a sewing machine.\\n5-2. Cut the duck cloth into 7-inch by 7-inch squares.\\nUsing your ruler, measure out 7 inches (17.8 cm) at a time to make sure you are accurate. You should make 8 of these squares.\\n5-3. Match 2 of the squares up so that they are perfectly aligned.\\nUsing either a sewing machine or a needle and thread, sew 3 of the sides closed. Keep in mind that you should be sewing 1/2 an inch in from the edge of the squares.\\n5-4. Put a line of fabric glue in between the edges of the two squares.\\nOnly do this on the sides that you have sewn up. Even though you have sewed these sides, gluing the extra fabric together will make it less likely that your bean bags will leak.\\n5-5. Flip your bag inside out.\\nAgain, flipping your bag inside out makes it less likely that your corn will leak out.\\n5-6. Add 15.5 ounces of feed corn to each bag.\\nPlace the feed corn onto your digital baking scale and add or remove corn until it weighs 15.5 ounces. Then put the corn into the bag.\\nIf you do not have a digital baking scale, 2 cups of feed corn is very close to 15.5 ounces. It may not be exact but it will be close enough.\\n5-7. Measure 1/2 an inch in on the side that is still open.\\nFold the ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) edges into the bag and hold closed. You can use a pin to hold the edges closed.\\n5-8. Sew the final side shut.\\nTry to place your stitches as close to the edge as possible. Doing this will make the bag as evenly sized as possible.\\nTips\\nYour local lumber store will most likely cut the 2 x 4s to length for you... this is far less expensive than buying the proper power saw if you don't own it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"\\\"Cornhole,\\\" also known as \\\"Baggo,\\\" or just \\\"Bags,\\\" is a bean bag tossing game popular at many colleges and tailgating events around the country. Players toss bean bags and try to get them into a hole in the board. Follow these steps to create your own cornhole game.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Board Top\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build the top.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a sheet of plywood that is 24 inches (61.0 cm) by 48 inches (121.9 cm). This is the standard size that is promoted by the American Cornhole Organization (ACO).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure 12 inches (30.5 cm) from one side, and 9 inches (22.9 cm) from the end that you decide will be the top.\", \"描述\": \"Mark this spot with your pencil. This marked spot will be the center of your cornhole.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Draw the hole.\", \"描述\": \"Use a drawing compass to draw a 6-inch diameter hole (3 inch radius). Place the point of the drawing compass on the dot you marked out in the previous step. Spread the compass so that it is 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide and draw a circle. The point of the compass should not leave the board.\\nIf you do not have a drawing compass, place a thumbtack over the pencil mark you have made. Place a piece of string under the thumbtack and push the thumbtack down so it holds the string in place. With a ruler, measure 3 inches (7.6 cm) away from the thumbtack, starting at the very center of the thumbtack. Tie a pencil to the string, making sure that the distance between the pencil tip and thumbtack is 3 inches (7.6 cm). Draw your circle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole right on the inside of the circle you have just made, up against the pencil circle.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the hole does not go outside the pencil mark. This hole will act as the starting point for your saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Insert the blade of your jigsaw and cut the hole.\", \"描述\": \"Try to cut as close to the penciled circle as possible. Your cut may not be perfect but that is ok because you can clean it up with sandpaper.\\nYou can also cut the hole using a hole saw or a router.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Wrap a piece of sandpaper around a cylinder of some sort.\", \"描述\": \"The handle of a hammer or a thin pipe will work. Run the sandpaper along the interior edges of the hole to smooth your cut out and make it even.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building and Attaching the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut all of your wood.\", \"描述\": \"You will need six 2x4 pieces of wood to make one board. Use a mitre saw or a hand saw to cut the boards. Always use caution when using power tools. Don’t forget to factor in the saw’s blade width.\\nIf you are not familiar with using a mitre or hand saw, ask an employee at the lumberyard to cut your wood for you. Make sure you bring the correct measurements to the lumberyard.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 21 inches (53.3 cm) long (these will be the ends of the frame).\", \"描述\": \"Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 48 inches (121.9 cm) long (these will be the sides of the frame). Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 16 inches (40.6 cm) long (these will be the legs that will be used later).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Place the 21-inch boards in between the 48-inch boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Using the drill and 2 ½ inch wood screws, screw the boards together by drilling from the outside of the 48-inch board into the end of the 21-inch board where both boards meet.\", \"描述\": \"Use two screws for each corner.\\nDrill your holes with a drill bit that is slightly smaller than your screws. This ensures that your wood won’t split when you drill the screws in, and allows the screws to go into the wood more easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place your board top on top of the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Again, before drilling in your screws, drill holes with a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screws you will be using.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Use 10 long drywall screws to attach the board top to the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Use 4 screws across the top, 4 screws across the bottom, and 2 on each side.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Countersink\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building and Attaching the Legs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take one of the 16-inch pieces of wood.\", \"描述\": \"Estimate where your bolt will pass through by using a ruler. Measure the width of your piece of wood and locate the exact middle. Keep in mind that a 2x4 is not actually 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 4 inches (10.2 cm). Your midway point (middle of the wood) should be close to 1 ¾ inches. (To make things clear, let us say that the middle of the width is 1 3/4 inches.)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the ruler at the end of your wood and measure 1 ⁄4 inches (4.4 cm) (or whatever the length to the middle of the board was in the previous step.\", \"描述\": \") Make a mark indicating this measurement. From that mark, draw a line going across the width of the wood. Extend your previous mark so that both lines form a ‘t’ and are perpendicular to one another.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Take your drawing compass (or homemade drawing compass) and place the point directly in the center of the ‘t’ you have just made.\", \"描述\": \"Draw a half circle with the curve starting on the side of the board, arching up to the top of the board, and then arching back down to the other side of the board.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Turn your cornhole table over so that it is face down.\", \"描述\": \"Take a piece of scrap wood (use a leftover piece of a cut 2x4) and place it against one of the top corners of your table so it lays flat against the top (i.e. it should not run parallel to the side of the frame).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place one of the legs against the scrap wood so that it lies with the markings you have made facing outward.\", \"描述\": \"It should be perpendicular to the piece of scrap wood (i.e. it should be parallel to the side of the frame).\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Transfer the leg’s midpoint line onto the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Use a straightedge or ruler and draw the line with a pencil. Find the frame’s middle with a ruler and mark it along the line you have just made. Do not include the plywood board in the measurement, just the 2x4 frame.\\nThis intersection will be where the drill bolt goes.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make a small hole at the intersection point with an extra screw.\", \"描述\": \"This will help you guide your screw or bolt into the correct position.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Using a drill or power driver, drill a screw or bolt through the mark you have made.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure it goes through the frame and into the leg. Add the other leg in the same way.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Measure from the top of the board to the ground.\", \"描述\": \"If it is not 12 inches (30.5 cm), mark where you must cut the legs so that the board is 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Flip the board back over and saw the legs to your measurement.\", \"描述\": \"Saw the legs at an angle so that they run parallel to the ground. Sand them if your cut is slightly jagged.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Painting the Board\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use a putty knife to put wood filler into any holes or cracks on your board.\", \"描述\": \"Check the filler’s box for instructions on how long to let it dry. The surface of your cornhole board should be as smooth as possible. If you put too much filler in a crack, it can be sanded down once it is dried.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sand the surface of your table.\", \"描述\": \"A smooth table will allow bean bags to slide better. Use an electric sander if you have one. If you don’t have one, medium grit sandpaper will work well.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Apply a thin layer of primer paint to all visible surfaces of the board and legs.\", \"描述\": \"You can use a paintbrush or roller. Let the primer dry. The primer will dry white.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a layer of white high-gloss latex paint.\", \"描述\": \"This layer will act as the border if you are following a traditional cornhole design. Let this layer dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pick out your paint colors and design.\", \"描述\": \"The traditional cornhole table has a white border 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide. It also has a 1.5-inch border around the circle. Use painters tape and cover whatever you want to stay white with the tape.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Paint the rest of your board with whatever color you choose.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to use high-gloss latex paint. This type of paint will leave your board smooth so the bean bags will be able to slide more easily. Let the paint dry. If your paint is too light for your liking, add more layers.\\nIf you decide not to do the traditional paint pattern, get creative! Use painters tape to create shapes that you can paint on or around. Use bright colors and make your cornhole board stand out in a crowd.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Making the Bean Bags\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a large piece of duck cloth (you can generally purchase swaths of duck cloth that are 7 inches wide and 56 inches long.) You will also need scissors, a ruler, a sewing machine, fabric glue, a bag of feed corn, and a digital baking scale.\\nYou can also use a needle and thread if you do not have a sewing machine.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the duck cloth into 7-inch by 7-inch squares.\", \"描述\": \"Using your ruler, measure out 7 inches (17.8 cm) at a time to make sure you are accurate. You should make 8 of these squares.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Match 2 of the squares up so that they are perfectly aligned.\", \"描述\": \"Using either a sewing machine or a needle and thread, sew 3 of the sides closed. Keep in mind that you should be sewing 1/2 an inch in from the edge of the squares.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put a line of fabric glue in between the edges of the two squares.\", \"描述\": \"Only do this on the sides that you have sewn up. Even though you have sewed these sides, gluing the extra fabric together will make it less likely that your bean bags will leak.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Flip your bag inside out.\", \"描述\": \"Again, flipping your bag inside out makes it less likely that your corn will leak out.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add 15.5 ounces of feed corn to each bag.\", \"描述\": \"Place the feed corn onto your digital baking scale and add or remove corn until it weighs 15.5 ounces. Then put the corn into the bag.\\nIf you do not have a digital baking scale, 2 cups of feed corn is very close to 15.5 ounces. It may not be exact but it will be close enough.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Measure 1/2 an inch in on the side that is still open.\", \"描述\": \"Fold the ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) edges into the bag and hold closed. You can use a pin to hold the edges closed.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Sew the final side shut.\", \"描述\": \"Try to place your stitches as close to the edge as possible. Doing this will make the bag as evenly sized as possible.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Your local lumber store will most likely cut the 2 x 4s to length for you... this is far less expensive than buying the proper power saw if you don't own it.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,296 |
How to Build a Craft Table
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1. Assembling a Basic Craft Table
1-1. Purchase a blank door slab or desktop to serve as your work surface.
Because of their rectangular shape and thick, sturdy construction, these materials make a perfect ready-made top for a DIY craft table. Look for a door slab or desktop that’s around 50–60 inches (130–150 cm) in length and 30–40 inches (760–1,020 mm) wide. This will give you plenty of space to play with and store your crafting materials.
You can find blank door slabs and premade tabletops at most hardware stores and home improvement centers.
For a custom-size tabletop, you can also pick up a sheet of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood and cut it to your preferred specifications.
1-2. Use a pair of modular shelving units as the base.
There are a couple major benefits to opting for modular shelving units over ordinary table legs. Not only do they offer accessible built-in storage, they also tend to be just the right height to allow you to either sit or stand comfortably, which is useful if you spend a lot of time laboring at your craft table.
Modular shelving units are available at all major furniture and home goods stores, and come in all different shapes and sizes. Look for a matching set that meets both your storage needs and style preferences.
If you happen to find a particularly large shelf that catches your eye, you may be able to get away with using a single unit as your base rather than two separate units.
1-3. Space your shelving units no wider than the length of the tabletop.
Setting the outer edges of the shelves flush with the ends of the tabletop will provide the maximum amount of legroom underneath. Alternatively, by moving them in 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm), you can create a short overhang on both sides, which may be more aesthetically pleasing. Decide on a spacing that best suits your intended use.
If you plan on sitting down at your craft table, try to leave at least 30 inches (76 cm) of open space beneath to give yourself plenty of legroom.
Use a tape measure to double-check the spacing and alignment of the shelving units before you install the tabletop.
1-4. Set your makeshift tabletop on top of your base.
Once you’ve got the tabletop in position, check to make sure it’s perfectly centered. If you just want a convenient place to tinker with small craft projects, you could simply call it a day here. Otherwise, proceed to fasten your work surface to the shelving units to ensure that it’s stable enough to handle bigger, more involved crafts.
For the sake of stability, it’s important to make sure your tabletop is properly positioned, whether your base consists of one or two shelving units.
1-5. Pre-drill screw holes through both the shelving units and tabletop.
Use a power drill to bore a series of holes up through the top of the shelving units and into the bottom surface of the tabletop. If space allows, open up 2 screw holes in each corner where your base meets your work surface to guarantee that they’re secure.
The holes you drill should be the same diameter (or very slightly larger) as the wood screws you’ll be using to fasten the table.
Be careful not to drill all the way through the tabletop, or you could end up ruining the pristine appearance of your work surface.
1-6. Screw the tabletop to the shelving units to hold the table together.
Now that you’ve drilled your screw holes, all that’s left to do is slip your wood screws inside and tighten them until they’re nice and snug. You can use your drill for this, or do your tightening by hand for a little extra control.
Rock your completed craft table back and forth a few times once you’ve got it screwed together. If it feels loose or lopsided, you may need to disassemble it and reset the screws.
2. Customizing Your Craft Table
2-1. Try out different materials for your base.
If storage isn’t as much of a concern for you, you might cut two sheets of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood to whatever height you need and use them as simple, minimalistic supports. Or, you could repurpose a pair of sawhorses for more of a rugged workshop look. Almost anything can be converted into the bottom half of your craft table, so get creative.
Selecting rolling shelves as your base (or screwing on a set of detachable wheels later on) will make it possible to move your craft table from place to place.
2-2. Leave the back of the table open to make room for a chair or stool.
Find a shallow shelving unit long enough span the front of the table, then attach two large table legs to the backside. You’ll then be free to pull up a seat while still having several drawers which you can use to hold small items.
You can buy individual table legs at any hardware store. It’s a good idea to pick out legs that are slightly bigger than they need to be so you can cut them to match the height of your shelving unit.
Settling for a half-and-half design is a clever solution if you like to do your crafting seated, but prefer a “closed” style and don’t want to sacrifice storage space altogether.
2-3. Paint your various components whatever color you like.
Before you put your table together, brush or spray it with 2-3 coats of water-based paint. That way, you won’t be forced to stick with whatever color your tabletop and shelving units came in. Painting is a quick and easy way to add a splash of personality to your craft table.
Let each coat of paint dry to the touch before applying the next one. This will usually take 4-6 hours, but drying times may vary depending on what type of paint you’re using, so be sure to follow the instructions on the label.
If you plan on using your craft table in your garage or another open-air space, consider finishing it with a topcoat of clear outdoor varnish to protect it from moisture, scratches, and exposure to the elements.
2-4. Incorporate other storage solutions to keep your materials organized.
The shelves built into the base of your table will work nicely for stashing large materials. To keep up with smaller items like paint brushes, fabric samples, and hand tools, slide baskets onto the shelves and sort your various supplies into them. They’ll function as handy internal organizers.
Plastic lidded containers are preferable for storing supplies that could easily be spilled or misplaced, such as loose beads, glitter, paint, and any kind of liquid.
Create labels to go on the outside of your baskets and bins so you’ll know what each one holds at a glance.
Tips
Depending on the particular style you go with, you should be able to put together a basic craft table in just a couple hours using only $50-200 worth of materials.
To make an oversized L-shaped craft table that provides twice the room, simply double your materials and join the short end of one tabletop to the long end of the other.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling a Basic Craft Table\\n1-1. Purchase a blank door slab or desktop to serve as your work surface.\\nBecause of their rectangular shape and thick, sturdy construction, these materials make a perfect ready-made top for a DIY craft table. Look for a door slab or desktop that’s around 50–60 inches (130–150 cm) in length and 30–40 inches (760–1,020 mm) wide. This will give you plenty of space to play with and store your crafting materials.\\nYou can find blank door slabs and premade tabletops at most hardware stores and home improvement centers.\\nFor a custom-size tabletop, you can also pick up a sheet of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood and cut it to your preferred specifications.\\n1-2. Use a pair of modular shelving units as the base.\\nThere are a couple major benefits to opting for modular shelving units over ordinary table legs. Not only do they offer accessible built-in storage, they also tend to be just the right height to allow you to either sit or stand comfortably, which is useful if you spend a lot of time laboring at your craft table.\\nModular shelving units are available at all major furniture and home goods stores, and come in all different shapes and sizes. Look for a matching set that meets both your storage needs and style preferences.\\nIf you happen to find a particularly large shelf that catches your eye, you may be able to get away with using a single unit as your base rather than two separate units.\\n1-3. Space your shelving units no wider than the length of the tabletop.\\nSetting the outer edges of the shelves flush with the ends of the tabletop will provide the maximum amount of legroom underneath. Alternatively, by moving them in 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm), you can create a short overhang on both sides, which may be more aesthetically pleasing. Decide on a spacing that best suits your intended use.\\nIf you plan on sitting down at your craft table, try to leave at least 30 inches (76 cm) of open space beneath to give yourself plenty of legroom.\\nUse a tape measure to double-check the spacing and alignment of the shelving units before you install the tabletop.\\n1-4. Set your makeshift tabletop on top of your base.\\nOnce you’ve got the tabletop in position, check to make sure it’s perfectly centered. If you just want a convenient place to tinker with small craft projects, you could simply call it a day here. Otherwise, proceed to fasten your work surface to the shelving units to ensure that it’s stable enough to handle bigger, more involved crafts.\\nFor the sake of stability, it’s important to make sure your tabletop is properly positioned, whether your base consists of one or two shelving units.\\n1-5. Pre-drill screw holes through both the shelving units and tabletop.\\nUse a power drill to bore a series of holes up through the top of the shelving units and into the bottom surface of the tabletop. If space allows, open up 2 screw holes in each corner where your base meets your work surface to guarantee that they’re secure.\\nThe holes you drill should be the same diameter (or very slightly larger) as the wood screws you’ll be using to fasten the table.\\nBe careful not to drill all the way through the tabletop, or you could end up ruining the pristine appearance of your work surface.\\n1-6. Screw the tabletop to the shelving units to hold the table together.\\nNow that you’ve drilled your screw holes, all that’s left to do is slip your wood screws inside and tighten them until they’re nice and snug. You can use your drill for this, or do your tightening by hand for a little extra control.\\nRock your completed craft table back and forth a few times once you’ve got it screwed together. If it feels loose or lopsided, you may need to disassemble it and reset the screws.\\n2. Customizing Your Craft Table\\n2-1. Try out different materials for your base.\\nIf storage isn’t as much of a concern for you, you might cut two sheets of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood to whatever height you need and use them as simple, minimalistic supports. Or, you could repurpose a pair of sawhorses for more of a rugged workshop look. Almost anything can be converted into the bottom half of your craft table, so get creative.\\nSelecting rolling shelves as your base (or screwing on a set of detachable wheels later on) will make it possible to move your craft table from place to place.\\n2-2. Leave the back of the table open to make room for a chair or stool.\\nFind a shallow shelving unit long enough span the front of the table, then attach two large table legs to the backside. You’ll then be free to pull up a seat while still having several drawers which you can use to hold small items.\\nYou can buy individual table legs at any hardware store. It’s a good idea to pick out legs that are slightly bigger than they need to be so you can cut them to match the height of your shelving unit.\\nSettling for a half-and-half design is a clever solution if you like to do your crafting seated, but prefer a “closed” style and don’t want to sacrifice storage space altogether.\\n2-3. Paint your various components whatever color you like.\\nBefore you put your table together, brush or spray it with 2-3 coats of water-based paint. That way, you won’t be forced to stick with whatever color your tabletop and shelving units came in. Painting is a quick and easy way to add a splash of personality to your craft table.\\nLet each coat of paint dry to the touch before applying the next one. This will usually take 4-6 hours, but drying times may vary depending on what type of paint you’re using, so be sure to follow the instructions on the label.\\nIf you plan on using your craft table in your garage or another open-air space, consider finishing it with a topcoat of clear outdoor varnish to protect it from moisture, scratches, and exposure to the elements.\\n2-4. Incorporate other storage solutions to keep your materials organized.\\nThe shelves built into the base of your table will work nicely for stashing large materials. To keep up with smaller items like paint brushes, fabric samples, and hand tools, slide baskets onto the shelves and sort your various supplies into them. They’ll function as handy internal organizers.\\nPlastic lidded containers are preferable for storing supplies that could easily be spilled or misplaced, such as loose beads, glitter, paint, and any kind of liquid.\\nCreate labels to go on the outside of your baskets and bins so you’ll know what each one holds at a glance.\\nTips\\nDepending on the particular style you go with, you should be able to put together a basic craft table in just a couple hours using only $50-200 worth of materials.\\nTo make an oversized L-shaped craft table that provides twice the room, simply double your materials and join the short end of one tabletop to the long end of the other.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you’re into crafting, there’s nothing craftier than crafting your own craft table! Taking the DIY approach to creating a special work area to tackle craft projects is simple—all you’ll need is a blank door slab or desktop to serve as your work surface, one or two modular shelving units for the base, and a few wood screws to hold it all together. You could even get creative and use materials like rolling shelves or sawhorses as your table’s base for a custom crafting experience.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling a Basic Craft Table\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase a blank door slab or desktop to serve as your work surface.\", \"描述\": \"Because of their rectangular shape and thick, sturdy construction, these materials make a perfect ready-made top for a DIY craft table. Look for a door slab or desktop that’s around 50–60 inches (130–150 cm) in length and 30–40 inches (760–1,020 mm) wide. This will give you plenty of space to play with and store your crafting materials.\\nYou can find blank door slabs and premade tabletops at most hardware stores and home improvement centers.\\nFor a custom-size tabletop, you can also pick up a sheet of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood and cut it to your preferred specifications.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a pair of modular shelving units as the base.\", \"描述\": \"There are a couple major benefits to opting for modular shelving units over ordinary table legs. Not only do they offer accessible built-in storage, they also tend to be just the right height to allow you to either sit or stand comfortably, which is useful if you spend a lot of time laboring at your craft table.\\nModular shelving units are available at all major furniture and home goods stores, and come in all different shapes and sizes. Look for a matching set that meets both your storage needs and style preferences.\\nIf you happen to find a particularly large shelf that catches your eye, you may be able to get away with using a single unit as your base rather than two separate units.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Space your shelving units no wider than the length of the tabletop.\", \"描述\": \"Setting the outer edges of the shelves flush with the ends of the tabletop will provide the maximum amount of legroom underneath. Alternatively, by moving them in 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm), you can create a short overhang on both sides, which may be more aesthetically pleasing. Decide on a spacing that best suits your intended use.\\nIf you plan on sitting down at your craft table, try to leave at least 30 inches (76 cm) of open space beneath to give yourself plenty of legroom.\\nUse a tape measure to double-check the spacing and alignment of the shelving units before you install the tabletop.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set your makeshift tabletop on top of your base.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve got the tabletop in position, check to make sure it’s perfectly centered. If you just want a convenient place to tinker with small craft projects, you could simply call it a day here. Otherwise, proceed to fasten your work surface to the shelving units to ensure that it’s stable enough to handle bigger, more involved crafts.\\nFor the sake of stability, it’s important to make sure your tabletop is properly positioned, whether your base consists of one or two shelving units.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pre-drill screw holes through both the shelving units and tabletop.\", \"描述\": \"Use a power drill to bore a series of holes up through the top of the shelving units and into the bottom surface of the tabletop. If space allows, open up 2 screw holes in each corner where your base meets your work surface to guarantee that they’re secure.\\nThe holes you drill should be the same diameter (or very slightly larger) as the wood screws you’ll be using to fasten the table.\\nBe careful not to drill all the way through the tabletop, or you could end up ruining the pristine appearance of your work surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Screw the tabletop to the shelving units to hold the table together.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you’ve drilled your screw holes, all that’s left to do is slip your wood screws inside and tighten them until they’re nice and snug. You can use your drill for this, or do your tightening by hand for a little extra control.\\nRock your completed craft table back and forth a few times once you’ve got it screwed together. If it feels loose or lopsided, you may need to disassemble it and reset the screws.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Customizing Your Craft Table\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try out different materials for your base.\", \"描述\": \"If storage isn’t as much of a concern for you, you might cut two sheets of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood to whatever height you need and use them as simple, minimalistic supports. Or, you could repurpose a pair of sawhorses for more of a rugged workshop look. Almost anything can be converted into the bottom half of your craft table, so get creative.\\nSelecting rolling shelves as your base (or screwing on a set of detachable wheels later on) will make it possible to move your craft table from place to place.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Leave the back of the table open to make room for a chair or stool.\", \"描述\": \"Find a shallow shelving unit long enough span the front of the table, then attach two large table legs to the backside. You’ll then be free to pull up a seat while still having several drawers which you can use to hold small items.\\nYou can buy individual table legs at any hardware store. It’s a good idea to pick out legs that are slightly bigger than they need to be so you can cut them to match the height of your shelving unit.\\nSettling for a half-and-half design is a clever solution if you like to do your crafting seated, but prefer a “closed” style and don’t want to sacrifice storage space altogether.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint your various components whatever color you like.\", \"描述\": \"Before you put your table together, brush or spray it with 2-3 coats of water-based paint. That way, you won’t be forced to stick with whatever color your tabletop and shelving units came in. Painting is a quick and easy way to add a splash of personality to your craft table.\\nLet each coat of paint dry to the touch before applying the next one. This will usually take 4-6 hours, but drying times may vary depending on what type of paint you’re using, so be sure to follow the instructions on the label.\\nIf you plan on using your craft table in your garage or another open-air space, consider finishing it with a topcoat of clear outdoor varnish to protect it from moisture, scratches, and exposure to the elements.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Incorporate other storage solutions to keep your materials organized.\", \"描述\": \"The shelves built into the base of your table will work nicely for stashing large materials. To keep up with smaller items like paint brushes, fabric samples, and hand tools, slide baskets onto the shelves and sort your various supplies into them. They’ll function as handy internal organizers.\\nPlastic lidded containers are preferable for storing supplies that could easily be spilled or misplaced, such as loose beads, glitter, paint, and any kind of liquid.\\nCreate labels to go on the outside of your baskets and bins so you’ll know what each one holds at a glance.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Depending on the particular style you go with, you should be able to put together a basic craft table in just a couple hours using only $50-200 worth of materials.\\n\", \"To make an oversized L-shaped craft table that provides twice the room, simply double your materials and join the short end of one tabletop to the long end of the other.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,297 |
How to Build a Crank and Slider Mechanism
|
1. Steps
1-1. Choose materials.
This example will use cardboard and wire, since just about anybody can readily obtain and cut them, but a sturdier or more attractive model could use balsa wood, Popsicle sticks, wood, stiff craft foam, metal, or found materials such as a container lid. Choose materials according to what you can find and whether you can work with them easily.
1-2. Create a base.
The base simply supports the other mechanism parts and provides pivot points for the rotating members. In this cardboard model, a large sheet of cardboard cut from the side of a cereal box will serve as the base.
1-3. Cut out the crank.
The crank needs two pivot points. They may be on a circular cutout as shown here, or they may be on either end of a short rectangular piece. If you'd like a circle, use a compass or trace around a circular object of a suitable size, such as a can or glass. Make a hole in the center of the crank and make another near the edge of the circle. For a linear crank, make holes near each end. Don't put any holes too close to the edge.
1-4. Cut out the shaft.
Make it about twice as long as the distance between the two holes. Make holes near either end of the shaft.
1-5. Cut out the slider.
This can be a simple rectangle of whatever material you are using. If you will place the slider into a tube, such as a pipe, you may prefer a cylindrical object, such as a cork or a piece of dowel or rod. Place a hole in one end of the slider.
1-6. Fashion a means of retaining the slider along a linear path.
For a two-dimensional cardboard model, you can use rectangles folded and glued to your base. Make these retainers two times as long as the crank, plus the length of the slider.
1-7. Prepare pivots.
This model uses craft wire and buttons, but any assemblage that will fit freely through the holes and hold the pieces together while allowing them to rotate against each other will do.
1-8. Put a hole in your base material and create a pivot between the center (or one end) of your crank and the base.
1-9. Create a pivot between the crank and the shaft.
If you're making a two-dimensional model on a base of wood or cardboard, place the shaft on top of the crank.
1-10. Create another pivot between the shaft and the slider.
In a two-dimensional model, place the slider under the shaft.
1-11. Rotate the crank so that the slider is in its fully retracted position.
Arrange the retainers on either side of it so that it has a path to move and fasten them down. Glue or even staples will do for paper.
Tips
Because the crank end follows a circular path, the motion of the slider will follow a sinusoidal pattern. Put another way, the location of the slider follows the sine of the angle of the crank. This also means that for a constant rotational speed of the crank, the velocity of the slider will be greatest in the middle of its travel and least at the ends of its travel.[5]
X
Research source
Use a ruler to cut on straight lines, especially for the slider.
Make the pieces fairly broad, especially if you are working in a delicate material such as cardboard or balsa wood. It will help keep them from bending around too much or folding instead of turning.
Warnings
Wear safety glasses if you will be operating a drill or using a craft knife.
If your materials are more heavier rigid than cardboard, be careful of pinching your fingers between moving parts.
Metals can have sharp edges, especially when cut. Use appropriate caution.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Choose materials.\\nThis example will use cardboard and wire, since just about anybody can readily obtain and cut them, but a sturdier or more attractive model could use balsa wood, Popsicle sticks, wood, stiff craft foam, metal, or found materials such as a container lid. Choose materials according to what you can find and whether you can work with them easily.\\n1-2. Create a base.\\nThe base simply supports the other mechanism parts and provides pivot points for the rotating members. In this cardboard model, a large sheet of cardboard cut from the side of a cereal box will serve as the base.\\n1-3. Cut out the crank.\\nThe crank needs two pivot points. They may be on a circular cutout as shown here, or they may be on either end of a short rectangular piece. If you'd like a circle, use a compass or trace around a circular object of a suitable size, such as a can or glass. Make a hole in the center of the crank and make another near the edge of the circle. For a linear crank, make holes near each end. Don't put any holes too close to the edge.\\n1-4. Cut out the shaft.\\nMake it about twice as long as the distance between the two holes. Make holes near either end of the shaft.\\n1-5. Cut out the slider.\\nThis can be a simple rectangle of whatever material you are using. If you will place the slider into a tube, such as a pipe, you may prefer a cylindrical object, such as a cork or a piece of dowel or rod. Place a hole in one end of the slider.\\n1-6. Fashion a means of retaining the slider along a linear path.\\nFor a two-dimensional cardboard model, you can use rectangles folded and glued to your base. Make these retainers two times as long as the crank, plus the length of the slider.\\n1-7. Prepare pivots.\\nThis model uses craft wire and buttons, but any assemblage that will fit freely through the holes and hold the pieces together while allowing them to rotate against each other will do.\\n1-8. Put a hole in your base material and create a pivot between the center (or one end) of your crank and the base.\\n\\n1-9. Create a pivot between the crank and the shaft.\\nIf you're making a two-dimensional model on a base of wood or cardboard, place the shaft on top of the crank.\\n1-10. Create another pivot between the shaft and the slider.\\nIn a two-dimensional model, place the slider under the shaft.\\n1-11. Rotate the crank so that the slider is in its fully retracted position.\\nArrange the retainers on either side of it so that it has a path to move and fasten them down. Glue or even staples will do for paper.\\nTips\\nBecause the crank end follows a circular path, the motion of the slider will follow a sinusoidal pattern. Put another way, the location of the slider follows the sine of the angle of the crank. This also means that for a constant rotational speed of the crank, the velocity of the slider will be greatest in the middle of its travel and least at the ends of its travel.[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nUse a ruler to cut on straight lines, especially for the slider.\\nMake the pieces fairly broad, especially if you are working in a delicate material such as cardboard or balsa wood. It will help keep them from bending around too much or folding instead of turning.\\nWarnings\\nWear safety glasses if you will be operating a drill or using a craft knife.\\nIf your materials are more heavier rigid than cardboard, be careful of pinching your fingers between moving parts.\\nMetals can have sharp edges, especially when cut. Use appropriate caution.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A crank and slider is a useful mechanism if you need to convert rotational motion into reciprocating linear motion. To build one, you'll ned a crank shaft, a linkage or connecting rod, and a slider. We'll show you how to build a simple, working model at home out of household materials, wood, or metal.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose materials.\", \"描述\": \"This example will use cardboard and wire, since just about anybody can readily obtain and cut them, but a sturdier or more attractive model could use balsa wood, Popsicle sticks, wood, stiff craft foam, metal, or found materials such as a container lid. Choose materials according to what you can find and whether you can work with them easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a base.\", \"描述\": \"The base simply supports the other mechanism parts and provides pivot points for the rotating members. In this cardboard model, a large sheet of cardboard cut from the side of a cereal box will serve as the base.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut out the crank.\", \"描述\": \"The crank needs two pivot points. They may be on a circular cutout as shown here, or they may be on either end of a short rectangular piece. If you'd like a circle, use a compass or trace around a circular object of a suitable size, such as a can or glass. Make a hole in the center of the crank and make another near the edge of the circle. For a linear crank, make holes near each end. Don't put any holes too close to the edge.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut out the shaft.\", \"描述\": \"Make it about twice as long as the distance between the two holes. Make holes near either end of the shaft.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut out the slider.\", \"描述\": \"This can be a simple rectangle of whatever material you are using. If you will place the slider into a tube, such as a pipe, you may prefer a cylindrical object, such as a cork or a piece of dowel or rod. Place a hole in one end of the slider.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fashion a means of retaining the slider along a linear path.\", \"描述\": \"For a two-dimensional cardboard model, you can use rectangles folded and glued to your base. Make these retainers two times as long as the crank, plus the length of the slider.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Prepare pivots.\", \"描述\": \"This model uses craft wire and buttons, but any assemblage that will fit freely through the holes and hold the pieces together while allowing them to rotate against each other will do.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Put a hole in your base material and create a pivot between the center (or one end) of your crank and the base.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Create a pivot between the crank and the shaft.\", \"描述\": \"If you're making a two-dimensional model on a base of wood or cardboard, place the shaft on top of the crank.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Create another pivot between the shaft and the slider.\", \"描述\": \"In a two-dimensional model, place the slider under the shaft.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Rotate the crank so that the slider is in its fully retracted position.\", \"描述\": \"Arrange the retainers on either side of it so that it has a path to move and fasten them down. Glue or even staples will do for paper.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Because the crank end follows a circular path, the motion of the slider will follow a sinusoidal pattern. Put another way, the location of the slider follows the sine of the angle of the crank. This also means that for a constant rotational speed of the crank, the velocity of the slider will be greatest in the middle of its travel and least at the ends of its travel.[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Use a ruler to cut on straight lines, especially for the slider.\\n\", \"Make the pieces fairly broad, especially if you are working in a delicate material such as cardboard or balsa wood. It will help keep them from bending around too much or folding instead of turning.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wear safety glasses if you will be operating a drill or using a craft knife.\\n\", \"If your materials are more heavier rigid than cardboard, be careful of pinching your fingers between moving parts.\\n\", \"Metals can have sharp edges, especially when cut. Use appropriate caution.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,298 |
How to Build a Crate
|
1. Planning
1-1. Sketch out your desired dimensions of the crate in advance.
You need to know how big your crate is going to be in order to make the cuts perfectly. You can make any size crate you want, so long as you ensure that the two ends are the same size, and your slats between the ends are the same length. For this lesson, the crate will have the following dimensions (using 1/2" thick planks -- yours may vary slightly).
9-1/2"
16"
12"
1-2. Buy your wooden planks.
They should be roughly 1/2" to 3/4" thick, depending on your preferences. You'll want solid, untreated softwood, though the exact kind doesn't matter much -- you could easily use scraps or wood from old pallets. Pine and cedar are generally your best budget buys. As for the lengths and widths, you should procure:
You can adjust this width depending on how big you want the spaces on the side of the crate to be. You can have lots of thinner slats or fewer wider ones.
1-3. Cut your wood to the dimensions of your box, plus 1".
Unless your hardware store will automatically cut your wood for you, it's time to get the saw going. The best way to get perfect, even cuts is to make a rough cut in each piece first, leaving it 1/8" longer than it should be. Then bunch 4 of these rough cuts pieces of wood together, holding the stack together with tape. You can then cut all the pieces at the same time to get identical lengths.
You want each board to be 12-1/2" long. There should be 4.
You want each slat to be 18" long. There should be 13.
1-4. Sand the wood down on all sides.
Make sure that all the planks are smooth on all sides. Remember, these specifications are for a 16x12x9.5" crate. After sanding, double-check all of your cuts to make sure you have the right amount of wood.
Two of the pieces will be joined together to form each end.
1-5. Alternatively, use a single piece of wood for the two ends.
For a quicker, easier crate, simply cut a piece of plywood or other wider wood right into the size of your ends (here, 12-1/2" x 9-1/2"). It will look less professional, but it will work fine as a crate.
You can also use uneven slats of wood if you're using wood scraps or junk pieces -- they just need to be an even length. However, for a professional crate you should cut even slats.
2. Building the Ends
2-1. Dry fit two of the wider boards together along the long side.
Take two of your four wider boards and place them together along the long edge. You'll end up with a square 9-1/2" wide, 12-1/2" long. Do this try run to make sure the cuts are even so that the boards come together to form an even rectangle. Repeat with the other two boards.
These wider planks will be used to create your ends.
2-2. Determine how you're going to adhere the two boards.
Building this crate requires that you to adhere the two boards to make the ends. You have several options, including:
Biscuit joints. The remainder of the tutorial will be using biscuit joints.
Dowels
Wood glue. Know, however, that this will not make a very strong box.
2-3. With the wood pressed together, use a pencil to mark three spots for dowels or biscuit joints.
Mark where you're going to adhere the boxes together on both blanks. For this tutorial, you'll use biscuit joints, though you can use any method you're comfortable with. Make sure you have three wooden biscuits as well as a biscuit drill.
Three biscuit joiners for each end should be more than enough. If you're in a pinch, two will do.
2-4. Use your biscuit joint drill to make notches at each mark.
Like up the drill with your pencil marks and make a clean, quick cut with the drill. Repeat for the other 5 marks.
2-5. Apply wood glue to all three biscuit holes on one of the planks.
One solid line of glue along the entire edge should be fine.
2-6. Insert a biscuit into each hole and firmly push it into place.
Make sure each biscuit is snug inside the hole.
2-7. Add a little more glue to the top of each biscuit, then attach the two boards together.
Simply slot the biscuits into the slots on the other piece. Let the wood glue dry and your ends are finished. Use a rubber mallet to hammer the ends gently, but firmly, together.
For the cleanest results, use a set of clamps to hold the two boards together as the wood glue dries.
2-8. Optional -- add handles to the ends.
Now that the ends of the crate are finished, you can decorate them or add handles. You have several options:
Using a table drill with a wide 1-2" drill bit, "punch" holes into each end to make a handle. Simply drill 3-4 holes in a small line to cut a handle in the wood.
Using a power drill and some small screws, install two metal handles, like those found on cabinets, into the ends. If adding these handles, wait until the end to install them, as you'll need to lay the box down flush to the ground to finish it.
3. Putting the Crate Together
3-1. Turn the ends upside down so that they are resting on their top edge.
The handles, if you added them, will be on the bench. You want the other long edge (12-1/2") facing upwards. Lay 4-5 of the slats on top and adjust the ends so that they are the right distance away. The ends of the slats should be flush with the outside edges of the end pieces.
3-2. Place a line of wood glue on each end of the slat and attach it to the ends.
This will make up the bottom of your crate. Start with the slat closest to the end so that you're making the corner of the box first.
3-3. Use 1" brad nails to firmly adhere the slat to the end.
The glue is there to help you get the slat in position and keep it in place as you hammer. You'll need nails to make the crate sturdy. Thin, 1" brad nails work well. Two in each end of each slat should do it.
If you don't want to use nails, a thin screw or heavy-duty wood glue may also work.
3-4. Add four more slats to the bottom of the crate.
Add a little glue, adhere the slat, then nail it in. Start with the other end to make the other corner, then work inward. You should have five slats total on the bottom of the crate.
3-5. Repeat the process on each side to finish the crate.
Use your last eight slats to finish the crate up. Turn it on its side and attach four slats to each side, spacing them however you'd like. When you're done, let the wood-glue dry overnight.
3-6. Optional-- Stain and finish your crate.
If you want a professional looking crate, get some stain out or paint the sides. You could use a wood burning kit to etch a design in as well. No matter how you choose to decorate your crate, make sure you wait a day for the glue to dry and the crate to settle before proceeding.
Tips
High-quality plywood can be stained and painted to add a decorative touch to a storage container.
Warnings
Make sure you are comfortable and confident using the equipment safely before beginning.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:30",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning\\n1-1. Sketch out your desired dimensions of the crate in advance.\\nYou need to know how big your crate is going to be in order to make the cuts perfectly. You can make any size crate you want, so long as you ensure that the two ends are the same size, and your slats between the ends are the same length. For this lesson, the crate will have the following dimensions (using 1/2\\\" thick planks -- yours may vary slightly).\\n\\n 9-1/2\\\"\\n 16\\\"\\n 12\\\"\\n1-2. Buy your wooden planks.\\nThey should be roughly 1/2\\\" to 3/4\\\" thick, depending on your preferences. You'll want solid, untreated softwood, though the exact kind doesn't matter much -- you could easily use scraps or wood from old pallets. Pine and cedar are generally your best budget buys. As for the lengths and widths, you should procure:\\n\\n\\nYou can adjust this width depending on how big you want the spaces on the side of the crate to be. You can have lots of thinner slats or fewer wider ones.\\n1-3. Cut your wood to the dimensions of your box, plus 1\\\".\\nUnless your hardware store will automatically cut your wood for you, it's time to get the saw going. The best way to get perfect, even cuts is to make a rough cut in each piece first, leaving it 1/8\\\" longer than it should be. Then bunch 4 of these rough cuts pieces of wood together, holding the stack together with tape. You can then cut all the pieces at the same time to get identical lengths.\\n\\n You want each board to be 12-1/2\\\" long. There should be 4.\\n You want each slat to be 18\\\" long. There should be 13.\\n1-4. Sand the wood down on all sides.\\nMake sure that all the planks are smooth on all sides. Remember, these specifications are for a 16x12x9.5\\\" crate. After sanding, double-check all of your cuts to make sure you have the right amount of wood.\\n\\n Two of the pieces will be joined together to form each end.\\n1-5. Alternatively, use a single piece of wood for the two ends.\\nFor a quicker, easier crate, simply cut a piece of plywood or other wider wood right into the size of your ends (here, 12-1/2\\\" x 9-1/2\\\"). It will look less professional, but it will work fine as a crate.\\nYou can also use uneven slats of wood if you're using wood scraps or junk pieces -- they just need to be an even length. However, for a professional crate you should cut even slats.\\n2. Building the Ends\\n2-1. Dry fit two of the wider boards together along the long side.\\nTake two of your four wider boards and place them together along the long edge. You'll end up with a square 9-1/2\\\" wide, 12-1/2\\\" long. Do this try run to make sure the cuts are even so that the boards come together to form an even rectangle. Repeat with the other two boards.\\nThese wider planks will be used to create your ends.\\n2-2. Determine how you're going to adhere the two boards.\\nBuilding this crate requires that you to adhere the two boards to make the ends. You have several options, including:\\n\\nBiscuit joints. The remainder of the tutorial will be using biscuit joints.\\nDowels\\nWood glue. Know, however, that this will not make a very strong box.\\n2-3. With the wood pressed together, use a pencil to mark three spots for dowels or biscuit joints.\\nMark where you're going to adhere the boxes together on both blanks. For this tutorial, you'll use biscuit joints, though you can use any method you're comfortable with. Make sure you have three wooden biscuits as well as a biscuit drill.\\nThree biscuit joiners for each end should be more than enough. If you're in a pinch, two will do.\\n2-4. Use your biscuit joint drill to make notches at each mark.\\nLike up the drill with your pencil marks and make a clean, quick cut with the drill. Repeat for the other 5 marks.\\n2-5. Apply wood glue to all three biscuit holes on one of the planks.\\nOne solid line of glue along the entire edge should be fine.\\n2-6. Insert a biscuit into each hole and firmly push it into place.\\nMake sure each biscuit is snug inside the hole.\\n2-7. Add a little more glue to the top of each biscuit, then attach the two boards together.\\nSimply slot the biscuits into the slots on the other piece. Let the wood glue dry and your ends are finished. Use a rubber mallet to hammer the ends gently, but firmly, together.\\nFor the cleanest results, use a set of clamps to hold the two boards together as the wood glue dries.\\n2-8. Optional -- add handles to the ends.\\nNow that the ends of the crate are finished, you can decorate them or add handles. You have several options:\\nUsing a table drill with a wide 1-2\\\" drill bit, \\\"punch\\\" holes into each end to make a handle. Simply drill 3-4 holes in a small line to cut a handle in the wood.\\nUsing a power drill and some small screws, install two metal handles, like those found on cabinets, into the ends. If adding these handles, wait until the end to install them, as you'll need to lay the box down flush to the ground to finish it.\\n3. Putting the Crate Together\\n3-1. Turn the ends upside down so that they are resting on their top edge.\\nThe handles, if you added them, will be on the bench. You want the other long edge (12-1/2\\\") facing upwards. Lay 4-5 of the slats on top and adjust the ends so that they are the right distance away. The ends of the slats should be flush with the outside edges of the end pieces.\\n3-2. Place a line of wood glue on each end of the slat and attach it to the ends.\\nThis will make up the bottom of your crate. Start with the slat closest to the end so that you're making the corner of the box first.\\n3-3. Use 1\\\" brad nails to firmly adhere the slat to the end.\\nThe glue is there to help you get the slat in position and keep it in place as you hammer. You'll need nails to make the crate sturdy. Thin, 1\\\" brad nails work well. Two in each end of each slat should do it.\\nIf you don't want to use nails, a thin screw or heavy-duty wood glue may also work.\\n3-4. Add four more slats to the bottom of the crate.\\nAdd a little glue, adhere the slat, then nail it in. Start with the other end to make the other corner, then work inward. You should have five slats total on the bottom of the crate.\\n3-5. Repeat the process on each side to finish the crate.\\nUse your last eight slats to finish the crate up. Turn it on its side and attach four slats to each side, spacing them however you'd like. When you're done, let the wood-glue dry overnight.\\n3-6. Optional-- Stain and finish your crate.\\nIf you want a professional looking crate, get some stain out or paint the sides. You could use a wood burning kit to etch a design in as well. No matter how you choose to decorate your crate, make sure you wait a day for the glue to dry and the crate to settle before proceeding.\\nTips\\nHigh-quality plywood can be stained and painted to add a decorative touch to a storage container.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure you are comfortable and confident using the equipment safely before beginning.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether it is for storage or a DIY-indie aesthetic, wooden crates are all the rage. They are easy to build, and you can use just about any wood you want, making them a quick and worthwhile carpentering project for just about anyone.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sketch out your desired dimensions of the crate in advance.\", \"描述\": \"You need to know how big your crate is going to be in order to make the cuts perfectly. You can make any size crate you want, so long as you ensure that the two ends are the same size, and your slats between the ends are the same length. For this lesson, the crate will have the following dimensions (using 1/2\\\" thick planks -- yours may vary slightly).\\n\\n 9-1/2\\\"\\n 16\\\"\\n 12\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy your wooden planks.\", \"描述\": \"They should be roughly 1/2\\\" to 3/4\\\" thick, depending on your preferences. You'll want solid, untreated softwood, though the exact kind doesn't matter much -- you could easily use scraps or wood from old pallets. Pine and cedar are generally your best budget buys. As for the lengths and widths, you should procure:\\n\\n\\nYou can adjust this width depending on how big you want the spaces on the side of the crate to be. You can have lots of thinner slats or fewer wider ones.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut your wood to the dimensions of your box, plus 1\\\".\", \"描述\": \"Unless your hardware store will automatically cut your wood for you, it's time to get the saw going. The best way to get perfect, even cuts is to make a rough cut in each piece first, leaving it 1/8\\\" longer than it should be. Then bunch 4 of these rough cuts pieces of wood together, holding the stack together with tape. You can then cut all the pieces at the same time to get identical lengths.\\n\\n You want each board to be 12-1/2\\\" long. There should be 4.\\n You want each slat to be 18\\\" long. There should be 13.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Sand the wood down on all sides.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that all the planks are smooth on all sides. Remember, these specifications are for a 16x12x9.5\\\" crate. After sanding, double-check all of your cuts to make sure you have the right amount of wood.\\n\\n Two of the pieces will be joined together to form each end.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Alternatively, use a single piece of wood for the two ends.\", \"描述\": \"For a quicker, easier crate, simply cut a piece of plywood or other wider wood right into the size of your ends (here, 12-1/2\\\" x 9-1/2\\\"). It will look less professional, but it will work fine as a crate.\\nYou can also use uneven slats of wood if you're using wood scraps or junk pieces -- they just need to be an even length. However, for a professional crate you should cut even slats.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Ends\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dry fit two of the wider boards together along the long side.\", \"描述\": \"Take two of your four wider boards and place them together along the long edge. You'll end up with a square 9-1/2\\\" wide, 12-1/2\\\" long. Do this try run to make sure the cuts are even so that the boards come together to form an even rectangle. Repeat with the other two boards.\\nThese wider planks will be used to create your ends.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine how you're going to adhere the two boards.\", \"描述\": \"Building this crate requires that you to adhere the two boards to make the ends. You have several options, including:\\n\\nBiscuit joints. The remainder of the tutorial will be using biscuit joints.\\nDowels\\nWood glue. Know, however, that this will not make a very strong box.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"With the wood pressed together, use a pencil to mark three spots for dowels or biscuit joints.\", \"描述\": \"Mark where you're going to adhere the boxes together on both blanks. For this tutorial, you'll use biscuit joints, though you can use any method you're comfortable with. Make sure you have three wooden biscuits as well as a biscuit drill.\\nThree biscuit joiners for each end should be more than enough. If you're in a pinch, two will do.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use your biscuit joint drill to make notches at each mark.\", \"描述\": \"Like up the drill with your pencil marks and make a clean, quick cut with the drill. Repeat for the other 5 marks.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Apply wood glue to all three biscuit holes on one of the planks.\", \"描述\": \"One solid line of glue along the entire edge should be fine.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Insert a biscuit into each hole and firmly push it into place.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure each biscuit is snug inside the hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add a little more glue to the top of each biscuit, then attach the two boards together.\", \"描述\": \"Simply slot the biscuits into the slots on the other piece. Let the wood glue dry and your ends are finished. Use a rubber mallet to hammer the ends gently, but firmly, together.\\nFor the cleanest results, use a set of clamps to hold the two boards together as the wood glue dries.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Optional -- add handles to the ends.\", \"描述\": \"Now that the ends of the crate are finished, you can decorate them or add handles. You have several options:\\nUsing a table drill with a wide 1-2\\\" drill bit, \\\"punch\\\" holes into each end to make a handle. Simply drill 3-4 holes in a small line to cut a handle in the wood.\\nUsing a power drill and some small screws, install two metal handles, like those found on cabinets, into the ends. If adding these handles, wait until the end to install them, as you'll need to lay the box down flush to the ground to finish it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Putting the Crate Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Turn the ends upside down so that they are resting on their top edge.\", \"描述\": \"The handles, if you added them, will be on the bench. You want the other long edge (12-1/2\\\") facing upwards. Lay 4-5 of the slats on top and adjust the ends so that they are the right distance away. The ends of the slats should be flush with the outside edges of the end pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place a line of wood glue on each end of the slat and attach it to the ends.\", \"描述\": \"This will make up the bottom of your crate. Start with the slat closest to the end so that you're making the corner of the box first.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use 1\\\" brad nails to firmly adhere the slat to the end.\", \"描述\": \"The glue is there to help you get the slat in position and keep it in place as you hammer. You'll need nails to make the crate sturdy. Thin, 1\\\" brad nails work well. Two in each end of each slat should do it.\\nIf you don't want to use nails, a thin screw or heavy-duty wood glue may also work.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add four more slats to the bottom of the crate.\", \"描述\": \"Add a little glue, adhere the slat, then nail it in. Start with the other end to make the other corner, then work inward. You should have five slats total on the bottom of the crate.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Repeat the process on each side to finish the crate.\", \"描述\": \"Use your last eight slats to finish the crate up. Turn it on its side and attach four slats to each side, spacing them however you'd like. When you're done, let the wood-glue dry overnight.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Optional-- Stain and finish your crate.\", \"描述\": \"If you want a professional looking crate, get some stain out or paint the sides. You could use a wood burning kit to etch a design in as well. No matter how you choose to decorate your crate, make sure you wait a day for the glue to dry and the crate to settle before proceeding.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"High-quality plywood can be stained and painted to add a decorative touch to a storage container.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure you are comfortable and confident using the equipment safely before beginning.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,299 |
How to Build a Credit History with American Express
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1. Establishing a History with American Express
1-1. Apply for an American Express Prepaid Card.
A prepaid card functions almost exactly like a debit card; you receive no credit and can only charge what you have deposited in the account. American Express does not report your transactions with a prepaid card to the credit bureaus and so it will not influence your credit score. However, American Express does keep an internal record of your transactions with the prepaid card. If you use the card frequently and consistently deposit money on it, American Express might invite you to apply for a card with more stringent requirements.
For many with low credit, this card might be the only way to get a foot in the door with American Express, but it will not build your credit score. You will need to build your credit score with other companies to make much progress toward obtaining American Card’s high-end products.
Typically prepaid cards are a bad investment because they charge monthly fees and charge for every transaction you make with them. However, the only fee for an American Express prepaid card is a $2 ATM fee, making it perhaps the best product of its kind on the market.
1-2. Apply for a USAA Secured American Express Card.
This card is only available to military veterans and their family members but can be a great resource for those eligible. As with other secured cards, you will need to submit a deposit as collateral and your credit limit will only be as high as your deposit. However, your deposit will accumulate interest (currently, 0.54%) and the card has a low APR of 9.9% to 19.90% with many benefits.
If you are eligible, this is a better option than the prepaid card, because it not only establishes a history with American Express, but also builds your credit score.
If you use the card responsibly for 2 years, it will convert into a regular credit card.
1-3. Apply for an American Express charge card.
American Express offers several charge cards, such as the Gold Card and Green Card. "Charge card" means that all of your debts are due at the end of the month. You cannot pay over time with a charge card. This is less of a liability for the company and because of that, average or slightly above average credit will typically suffice when applying for a charge card. It will not improve your credit score as much as a regular credit card would, but it will establish a history with American Express and has some of the best reward programs available.
For a charge card such as the Gold Card you will probably need a credit score near the high 600s.
Because you pay the full balance every month, you do not pay interest on your purchases.
There is an annual fee for American Express charge cards, ranging from $95 per year for the Green Card to $450 a year for the Platinum Card.
A charge card allows you to make purchases and pay them off. Paying your account promptly will build your credit history.
A charge card can affect your credit score when bureaus calculate the frequency of on-time payments and the length of credit history. However, it is not considered in your debt utilization ratio because there are no credit limits for a charge card.
1-4. Apply for an American Express credit card.
A credit card, unlike a charge card, will allow you to carry a balance and pay over time. Because of this, you usually need a higher credit score to be approved for an American Express credit card than you do for a charge card. (American Express does not release information regarding credit scores necessary to be approved for a card.) American Express offers a range of credit cards, which include various benefits such as travel miles, cash back, or business accounts.
American Express has a "Choose a Card" feature that can help you choose which card is right for you.
You may have better chances of being approved for an American Express credit card if you apply for a card through your bank, where you have an account in good standing. Bank of America, Citi, Wells Fargo, USAA, First National Bank, Barclays, and PenFed all issue American Express cards.
2. Building your Credit Score
2-1. Research your credit score.
Before you apply for a credit card, you should research your credit score. This is especially true if you do not have a credit history or believe that you might have a bad credit history. (If you have a bad credit history, see these wikiHow articles: Improve Your Credit Score or Get a Higher Credit Score Fast.)
You can request a free credit report from each of the three credit bureaus once per year through annualcreditreport.com. However, your credit report does not contain your credit score. It does contain information that can help you manage your credit score, though. For example, it's not uncommon to get information mixed up, so someone else's late payment or delinquent account could show up erroneously on your credit report. Getting these mistakes fixed will help boost your overall score.
Your credit is calculated by three separate agencies: Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. You should check all three. Some smaller lenders will only report to one of the three so that your credit score is liable to vary from one to the other.
Credit scores range from 300 to 850. The average credit score is approximately 650-700, depending upon the credit bureau.
2-2. Apply within your means.
If lenders see that you have made multiple applications for credit, this will affect your score and reduce your likelihood of receiving a card. This can reduce your score by as much as 10%. You should be aware of what your credit score qualifies you for and apply exclusively for cards that you are likely to get. American Express does not release what credit scores will qualify you for which cards.
A credit score of 700 or up will qualify you for a majority of cards, including some cards with very good benefits.
If your credit score is anywhere from 600 to 700, you can likely get an average credit card, but might have some difficulty. It is improbable that you will get a card with great benefits. If available, research the average credit score of those receiving a card that you are considering applying for. Do not apply if the average is much above your own credit score.
If your credit score is under 600 it is unlikely that you will receive a credit card. Instead, you should start out by becoming a cosigner on someone else’s card or by getting a secured card. Note that you cannot become a cosigner on an American Express account.
2-3. Do some research online.
While American Express does not release average credit score ranges necessary for card approval, you can sometimes find out the scores of other people who have been approved for a card. Sites such as NerdWallet and Credit Karma often post lists of credit cards for people with "fair" and "average" credit. Community members on this site will sometimes post when they have been approved, and what their credit scores were. This is not definitive information or a guarantee, but it could help you decide whether you have a likely shot at a card.
2-4. Get a secured card.
A secured card is a way to establish your credit if it is below 600, allowing you to eventually get an unsecured credit card. For a secured card, you will need to deposit cash in your account as collateral. Your spending limit will be approximately what you deposited, so that it functions almost like a prepaid card, except for the fact that the money you deposit as collateral will not count toward your payments.
American Express does not offer secured credit cards unless you are a military veteran or family of a veteran. If you have bad credit, you will likely need to begin building it with another company and before establishing a history of transactions with American Express.
2-5. Sign up for a linked account.
If you have a parent or a spouse who trusts you, you can ask to be added to her account. If they have good credit and handle the card appropriately, it can increase your credit score. Unlike many other cards, American Express does not accept co-signers. However, you can become an authorized user on someone else's American Express account.
An authorized user is someone who can use a credit card, but is not responsible for payments and can be removed from the account at any time. For people under 21 on their parents' card, the parent can even set a customized spending limit. However, in recent years, some accounts have stopped reporting information on authorized users to the credit bureaus. Conveniently, American Express only reports positive information about authorized users, making it one of the better companies for increasing your score with an authorized account.
2-6. Leverage your international history.
Unfortunately, the credit bureaus do not consider any transactions conducted outside of the nation. If you are coming from another country, you will essentially start from scratch in building a credit score. You might, however, be able to use your prior credit history to establish a line of credit in the United States.
If you do have records with a credit card in another country, you can try to bring print reports of these along with proof of income to a local bank. Some local institutions will be willing to offer credit cards based on this information.
Alternatively, if you had a credit card issued abroad and you were a good customer, the company might be willing to issue you an American card to begin building your credit score with. Try to work with an institution that you have had a history with.
3. Using Your Credit Wisely
3-1. Pay your bill on time.
35% percent of your credit score is calculated according to how consistently you pay on time. Paying early or paying above the minimum required payment does not have a direct effect on your credit score but might be noticed by some particularly sophisticated lenders. It is important though that you do not allow your debt to get so high that you are unable to make on-time payments. Paying more than the minimum is often necessary to do this.
Credit card companies are prohibited from reporting late payments to the credit bureaus unless the payment is 21 days late and most companies will wait until 30 days after the due date. However, your credit card is allowed to charge late fees for any payment that is even a day late and two months of consecutive late payments can be enough to increase your interest rate. This can affect your ability to make on-time payments in the future.
3-2. Maintain a good ratio of debt to credit.
30% of your credit score is determined by how high your debt is compared to your maximum credit limit. Ideally, your debt should be less than 30% of the amount of credit that you are approved for.
This is where only paying your minimum balance is likely to adversely affect your credit. If you only pay the minimum balance, your debt is likely to increase progressively, lowering your credit score.
This means that the higher your credit limit and the less that you use it, the better your credit score will be. Avoid department store credit, because these often have very low limits. Thus, if you use it at all, you will surpass the ideal 30% ratio and negatively impact your credit score.
3-3. Keep your card open.
15% of your credit score is calculated according to the length of your credit history. This is determined by how long your oldest account has been open, how long your newest account has been open, and the average age of all of your accounts. This effectively means that you should limit changes in your accounts. Keep them open and refrain from taking out too many new cards.
3-4. Contact American Express immediately if there is a problem.
Examine your statement for fraudulent or inaccurate charges. If you find charges on the statement that you feel are in error, contact American Express and ask to have these charges reviewed and, if warranted, removed. If you cannot afford to make the minimum payment required, contact American Express immediately and set up a special payment arrangement.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:30",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Establishing a History with American Express\\n1-1. Apply for an American Express Prepaid Card.\\nA prepaid card functions almost exactly like a debit card; you receive no credit and can only charge what you have deposited in the account. American Express does not report your transactions with a prepaid card to the credit bureaus and so it will not influence your credit score. However, American Express does keep an internal record of your transactions with the prepaid card. If you use the card frequently and consistently deposit money on it, American Express might invite you to apply for a card with more stringent requirements.\\nFor many with low credit, this card might be the only way to get a foot in the door with American Express, but it will not build your credit score. You will need to build your credit score with other companies to make much progress toward obtaining American Card’s high-end products.\\nTypically prepaid cards are a bad investment because they charge monthly fees and charge for every transaction you make with them. However, the only fee for an American Express prepaid card is a $2 ATM fee, making it perhaps the best product of its kind on the market.\\n1-2. Apply for a USAA Secured American Express Card.\\nThis card is only available to military veterans and their family members but can be a great resource for those eligible. As with other secured cards, you will need to submit a deposit as collateral and your credit limit will only be as high as your deposit. However, your deposit will accumulate interest (currently, 0.54%) and the card has a low APR of 9.9% to 19.90% with many benefits.\\nIf you are eligible, this is a better option than the prepaid card, because it not only establishes a history with American Express, but also builds your credit score.\\nIf you use the card responsibly for 2 years, it will convert into a regular credit card.\\n1-3. Apply for an American Express charge card.\\nAmerican Express offers several charge cards, such as the Gold Card and Green Card. \\\"Charge card\\\" means that all of your debts are due at the end of the month. You cannot pay over time with a charge card. This is less of a liability for the company and because of that, average or slightly above average credit will typically suffice when applying for a charge card. It will not improve your credit score as much as a regular credit card would, but it will establish a history with American Express and has some of the best reward programs available.\\nFor a charge card such as the Gold Card you will probably need a credit score near the high 600s.\\nBecause you pay the full balance every month, you do not pay interest on your purchases.\\nThere is an annual fee for American Express charge cards, ranging from $95 per year for the Green Card to $450 a year for the Platinum Card.\\nA charge card allows you to make purchases and pay them off. Paying your account promptly will build your credit history.\\nA charge card can affect your credit score when bureaus calculate the frequency of on-time payments and the length of credit history. However, it is not considered in your debt utilization ratio because there are no credit limits for a charge card.\\n1-4. Apply for an American Express credit card.\\nA credit card, unlike a charge card, will allow you to carry a balance and pay over time. Because of this, you usually need a higher credit score to be approved for an American Express credit card than you do for a charge card. (American Express does not release information regarding credit scores necessary to be approved for a card.) American Express offers a range of credit cards, which include various benefits such as travel miles, cash back, or business accounts.\\nAmerican Express has a \\\"Choose a Card\\\" feature that can help you choose which card is right for you.\\nYou may have better chances of being approved for an American Express credit card if you apply for a card through your bank, where you have an account in good standing. Bank of America, Citi, Wells Fargo, USAA, First National Bank, Barclays, and PenFed all issue American Express cards.\\n2. Building your Credit Score\\n2-1. Research your credit score.\\nBefore you apply for a credit card, you should research your credit score. This is especially true if you do not have a credit history or believe that you might have a bad credit history. (If you have a bad credit history, see these wikiHow articles: Improve Your Credit Score or Get a Higher Credit Score Fast.)\\nYou can request a free credit report from each of the three credit bureaus once per year through annualcreditreport.com. However, your credit report does not contain your credit score. It does contain information that can help you manage your credit score, though. For example, it's not uncommon to get information mixed up, so someone else's late payment or delinquent account could show up erroneously on your credit report. Getting these mistakes fixed will help boost your overall score.\\nYour credit is calculated by three separate agencies: Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. You should check all three. Some smaller lenders will only report to one of the three so that your credit score is liable to vary from one to the other.\\nCredit scores range from 300 to 850. The average credit score is approximately 650-700, depending upon the credit bureau.\\n2-2. Apply within your means.\\nIf lenders see that you have made multiple applications for credit, this will affect your score and reduce your likelihood of receiving a card. This can reduce your score by as much as 10%. You should be aware of what your credit score qualifies you for and apply exclusively for cards that you are likely to get. American Express does not release what credit scores will qualify you for which cards.\\nA credit score of 700 or up will qualify you for a majority of cards, including some cards with very good benefits.\\nIf your credit score is anywhere from 600 to 700, you can likely get an average credit card, but might have some difficulty. It is improbable that you will get a card with great benefits. If available, research the average credit score of those receiving a card that you are considering applying for. Do not apply if the average is much above your own credit score.\\nIf your credit score is under 600 it is unlikely that you will receive a credit card. Instead, you should start out by becoming a cosigner on someone else’s card or by getting a secured card. Note that you cannot become a cosigner on an American Express account.\\n2-3. Do some research online.\\nWhile American Express does not release average credit score ranges necessary for card approval, you can sometimes find out the scores of other people who have been approved for a card. Sites such as NerdWallet and Credit Karma often post lists of credit cards for people with \\\"fair\\\" and \\\"average\\\" credit. Community members on this site will sometimes post when they have been approved, and what their credit scores were. This is not definitive information or a guarantee, but it could help you decide whether you have a likely shot at a card.\\n2-4. Get a secured card.\\nA secured card is a way to establish your credit if it is below 600, allowing you to eventually get an unsecured credit card. For a secured card, you will need to deposit cash in your account as collateral. Your spending limit will be approximately what you deposited, so that it functions almost like a prepaid card, except for the fact that the money you deposit as collateral will not count toward your payments.\\nAmerican Express does not offer secured credit cards unless you are a military veteran or family of a veteran. If you have bad credit, you will likely need to begin building it with another company and before establishing a history of transactions with American Express.\\n2-5. Sign up for a linked account.\\nIf you have a parent or a spouse who trusts you, you can ask to be added to her account. If they have good credit and handle the card appropriately, it can increase your credit score. Unlike many other cards, American Express does not accept co-signers. However, you can become an authorized user on someone else's American Express account.\\nAn authorized user is someone who can use a credit card, but is not responsible for payments and can be removed from the account at any time. For people under 21 on their parents' card, the parent can even set a customized spending limit. However, in recent years, some accounts have stopped reporting information on authorized users to the credit bureaus. Conveniently, American Express only reports positive information about authorized users, making it one of the better companies for increasing your score with an authorized account.\\n2-6. Leverage your international history.\\nUnfortunately, the credit bureaus do not consider any transactions conducted outside of the nation. If you are coming from another country, you will essentially start from scratch in building a credit score. You might, however, be able to use your prior credit history to establish a line of credit in the United States.\\nIf you do have records with a credit card in another country, you can try to bring print reports of these along with proof of income to a local bank. Some local institutions will be willing to offer credit cards based on this information.\\nAlternatively, if you had a credit card issued abroad and you were a good customer, the company might be willing to issue you an American card to begin building your credit score with. Try to work with an institution that you have had a history with.\\n3. Using Your Credit Wisely\\n3-1. Pay your bill on time.\\n35% percent of your credit score is calculated according to how consistently you pay on time. Paying early or paying above the minimum required payment does not have a direct effect on your credit score but might be noticed by some particularly sophisticated lenders. It is important though that you do not allow your debt to get so high that you are unable to make on-time payments. Paying more than the minimum is often necessary to do this.\\nCredit card companies are prohibited from reporting late payments to the credit bureaus unless the payment is 21 days late and most companies will wait until 30 days after the due date. However, your credit card is allowed to charge late fees for any payment that is even a day late and two months of consecutive late payments can be enough to increase your interest rate. This can affect your ability to make on-time payments in the future.\\n3-2. Maintain a good ratio of debt to credit.\\n30% of your credit score is determined by how high your debt is compared to your maximum credit limit. Ideally, your debt should be less than 30% of the amount of credit that you are approved for.\\nThis is where only paying your minimum balance is likely to adversely affect your credit. If you only pay the minimum balance, your debt is likely to increase progressively, lowering your credit score.\\nThis means that the higher your credit limit and the less that you use it, the better your credit score will be. Avoid department store credit, because these often have very low limits. Thus, if you use it at all, you will surpass the ideal 30% ratio and negatively impact your credit score.\\n3-3. Keep your card open.\\n15% of your credit score is calculated according to the length of your credit history. This is determined by how long your oldest account has been open, how long your newest account has been open, and the average age of all of your accounts. This effectively means that you should limit changes in your accounts. Keep them open and refrain from taking out too many new cards.\\n3-4. Contact American Express immediately if there is a problem.\\nExamine your statement for fraudulent or inaccurate charges. If you find charges on the statement that you feel are in error, contact American Express and ask to have these charges reviewed and, if warranted, removed. If you cannot afford to make the minimum payment required, contact American Express immediately and set up a special payment arrangement.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The American Express Credit card, also referred to as AMEX, is a particularly established and reputable corporation. Founded in 1850 as a shipping service, it slowly transitioned into the financial sector, issuing its first credit card in the 1950s. Today its cards are some of the more coveted because of their great reward programs. This can make them hard to obtain. To get one you will need to build your credit score. For the best rates and benefits, you'll want to build a solid credit history with your card.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Establishing a History with American Express\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Apply for an American Express Prepaid Card.\", \"描述\": \"A prepaid card functions almost exactly like a debit card; you receive no credit and can only charge what you have deposited in the account. American Express does not report your transactions with a prepaid card to the credit bureaus and so it will not influence your credit score. However, American Express does keep an internal record of your transactions with the prepaid card. If you use the card frequently and consistently deposit money on it, American Express might invite you to apply for a card with more stringent requirements.\\nFor many with low credit, this card might be the only way to get a foot in the door with American Express, but it will not build your credit score. You will need to build your credit score with other companies to make much progress toward obtaining American Card’s high-end products.\\nTypically prepaid cards are a bad investment because they charge monthly fees and charge for every transaction you make with them. However, the only fee for an American Express prepaid card is a $2 ATM fee, making it perhaps the best product of its kind on the market.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply for a USAA Secured American Express Card.\", \"描述\": \"This card is only available to military veterans and their family members but can be a great resource for those eligible. As with other secured cards, you will need to submit a deposit as collateral and your credit limit will only be as high as your deposit. However, your deposit will accumulate interest (currently, 0.54%) and the card has a low APR of 9.9% to 19.90% with many benefits.\\nIf you are eligible, this is a better option than the prepaid card, because it not only establishes a history with American Express, but also builds your credit score.\\nIf you use the card responsibly for 2 years, it will convert into a regular credit card.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Apply for an American Express charge card.\", \"描述\": \"American Express offers several charge cards, such as the Gold Card and Green Card. \\\"Charge card\\\" means that all of your debts are due at the end of the month. You cannot pay over time with a charge card. This is less of a liability for the company and because of that, average or slightly above average credit will typically suffice when applying for a charge card. It will not improve your credit score as much as a regular credit card would, but it will establish a history with American Express and has some of the best reward programs available.\\nFor a charge card such as the Gold Card you will probably need a credit score near the high 600s.\\nBecause you pay the full balance every month, you do not pay interest on your purchases.\\nThere is an annual fee for American Express charge cards, ranging from $95 per year for the Green Card to $450 a year for the Platinum Card.\\nA charge card allows you to make purchases and pay them off. Paying your account promptly will build your credit history.\\nA charge card can affect your credit score when bureaus calculate the frequency of on-time payments and the length of credit history. However, it is not considered in your debt utilization ratio because there are no credit limits for a charge card.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Apply for an American Express credit card.\", \"描述\": \"A credit card, unlike a charge card, will allow you to carry a balance and pay over time. Because of this, you usually need a higher credit score to be approved for an American Express credit card than you do for a charge card. (American Express does not release information regarding credit scores necessary to be approved for a card.) American Express offers a range of credit cards, which include various benefits such as travel miles, cash back, or business accounts.\\nAmerican Express has a \\\"Choose a Card\\\" feature that can help you choose which card is right for you.\\nYou may have better chances of being approved for an American Express credit card if you apply for a card through your bank, where you have an account in good standing. Bank of America, Citi, Wells Fargo, USAA, First National Bank, Barclays, and PenFed all issue American Express cards.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building your Credit Score\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Research your credit score.\", \"描述\": \"Before you apply for a credit card, you should research your credit score. This is especially true if you do not have a credit history or believe that you might have a bad credit history. (If you have a bad credit history, see these wikiHow articles: Improve Your Credit Score or Get a Higher Credit Score Fast.)\\nYou can request a free credit report from each of the three credit bureaus once per year through annualcreditreport.com. However, your credit report does not contain your credit score. It does contain information that can help you manage your credit score, though. For example, it's not uncommon to get information mixed up, so someone else's late payment or delinquent account could show up erroneously on your credit report. Getting these mistakes fixed will help boost your overall score.\\nYour credit is calculated by three separate agencies: Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. You should check all three. Some smaller lenders will only report to one of the three so that your credit score is liable to vary from one to the other.\\nCredit scores range from 300 to 850. The average credit score is approximately 650-700, depending upon the credit bureau.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply within your means.\", \"描述\": \"If lenders see that you have made multiple applications for credit, this will affect your score and reduce your likelihood of receiving a card. This can reduce your score by as much as 10%. You should be aware of what your credit score qualifies you for and apply exclusively for cards that you are likely to get. American Express does not release what credit scores will qualify you for which cards.\\nA credit score of 700 or up will qualify you for a majority of cards, including some cards with very good benefits.\\nIf your credit score is anywhere from 600 to 700, you can likely get an average credit card, but might have some difficulty. It is improbable that you will get a card with great benefits. If available, research the average credit score of those receiving a card that you are considering applying for. Do not apply if the average is much above your own credit score.\\nIf your credit score is under 600 it is unlikely that you will receive a credit card. Instead, you should start out by becoming a cosigner on someone else’s card or by getting a secured card. Note that you cannot become a cosigner on an American Express account.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Do some research online.\", \"描述\": \"While American Express does not release average credit score ranges necessary for card approval, you can sometimes find out the scores of other people who have been approved for a card. Sites such as NerdWallet and Credit Karma often post lists of credit cards for people with \\\"fair\\\" and \\\"average\\\" credit. Community members on this site will sometimes post when they have been approved, and what their credit scores were. This is not definitive information or a guarantee, but it could help you decide whether you have a likely shot at a card.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get a secured card.\", \"描述\": \"A secured card is a way to establish your credit if it is below 600, allowing you to eventually get an unsecured credit card. For a secured card, you will need to deposit cash in your account as collateral. Your spending limit will be approximately what you deposited, so that it functions almost like a prepaid card, except for the fact that the money you deposit as collateral will not count toward your payments.\\nAmerican Express does not offer secured credit cards unless you are a military veteran or family of a veteran. If you have bad credit, you will likely need to begin building it with another company and before establishing a history of transactions with American Express.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Sign up for a linked account.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a parent or a spouse who trusts you, you can ask to be added to her account. If they have good credit and handle the card appropriately, it can increase your credit score. Unlike many other cards, American Express does not accept co-signers. However, you can become an authorized user on someone else's American Express account.\\nAn authorized user is someone who can use a credit card, but is not responsible for payments and can be removed from the account at any time. For people under 21 on their parents' card, the parent can even set a customized spending limit. However, in recent years, some accounts have stopped reporting information on authorized users to the credit bureaus. Conveniently, American Express only reports positive information about authorized users, making it one of the better companies for increasing your score with an authorized account.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Leverage your international history.\", \"描述\": \"Unfortunately, the credit bureaus do not consider any transactions conducted outside of the nation. If you are coming from another country, you will essentially start from scratch in building a credit score. You might, however, be able to use your prior credit history to establish a line of credit in the United States.\\nIf you do have records with a credit card in another country, you can try to bring print reports of these along with proof of income to a local bank. Some local institutions will be willing to offer credit cards based on this information.\\nAlternatively, if you had a credit card issued abroad and you were a good customer, the company might be willing to issue you an American card to begin building your credit score with. Try to work with an institution that you have had a history with.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using Your Credit Wisely\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pay your bill on time.\", \"描述\": \"35% percent of your credit score is calculated according to how consistently you pay on time. Paying early or paying above the minimum required payment does not have a direct effect on your credit score but might be noticed by some particularly sophisticated lenders. It is important though that you do not allow your debt to get so high that you are unable to make on-time payments. Paying more than the minimum is often necessary to do this.\\nCredit card companies are prohibited from reporting late payments to the credit bureaus unless the payment is 21 days late and most companies will wait until 30 days after the due date. However, your credit card is allowed to charge late fees for any payment that is even a day late and two months of consecutive late payments can be enough to increase your interest rate. This can affect your ability to make on-time payments in the future.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Maintain a good ratio of debt to credit.\", \"描述\": \"30% of your credit score is determined by how high your debt is compared to your maximum credit limit. Ideally, your debt should be less than 30% of the amount of credit that you are approved for.\\nThis is where only paying your minimum balance is likely to adversely affect your credit. If you only pay the minimum balance, your debt is likely to increase progressively, lowering your credit score.\\nThis means that the higher your credit limit and the less that you use it, the better your credit score will be. Avoid department store credit, because these often have very low limits. Thus, if you use it at all, you will surpass the ideal 30% ratio and negatively impact your credit score.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep your card open.\", \"描述\": \"15% of your credit score is calculated according to the length of your credit history. This is determined by how long your oldest account has been open, how long your newest account has been open, and the average age of all of your accounts. This effectively means that you should limit changes in your accounts. Keep them open and refrain from taking out too many new cards.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Contact American Express immediately if there is a problem.\", \"描述\": \"Examine your statement for fraudulent or inaccurate charges. If you find charges on the statement that you feel are in error, contact American Express and ask to have these charges reviewed and, if warranted, removed. If you cannot afford to make the minimum payment required, contact American Express immediately and set up a special payment arrangement.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,300 |
How to Build a Custom Guitar Hero Controller out of Hardwood
|
1. Drafting
1-1. Choose a style of guitar that you would like to duplicate.
1-2. Find a standard guitar hero controller that you can use to donate the electronics from.
1-3. Measure, Measure, Measure!!!
Remove all the internal controls and measure so that your custom controller can use the standard electronics.
1-4. Create a rough sketch of how you want your guitar to look by using the dimensions obtained from the measurements in the previous step.
1-5. Use a large piece of paper or cardboard to create a 1:1 template of all the pieces of your guitar.
2. The Neck
2-1. Find a piece of wood that is larger then your template and the desired thickness.
2-2. Using a pencil, transfer the template onto the piece of wood.
2-3. Use a band saw or a coping saw to cut the shape out of the piece of wood.
2-4. Using a router create a pocket-slot for the electronics and wiring.
2-5. For the faux tuners, anything you think can work will suffice:
paint, drill holes, use bolts (stainless steel button head screws were used here).
2-6. To create the radius on the edges use the router.
2-7. Sand the piece to the desired finish and shape.
3. The Fret Board
3-1. Find a piece of wood that is larger then your template and the desired thickness.
3-2. Using a pencil, transfer the template onto the piece of wood.
3-3. Use a band saw or coping saw to cut out the shape of the exterior.
3-4. Drill small pilot holes so that the holes can be cut out easily.
3-5. Use a jewelers say or a jigsaw to cut out each buttonhole.
3-6. Sand the piece to the desired finish and shape.
4. The Body
4-1. Find a piece of wood that is larger than your template and the desired thickness.
4-2. Using a pencil, transfer the template onto the piece of wood.
4-3. Use a band saw or coping saw to cut out the shape of the exterior.
4-4. Using a router create a pocket-slot for the electronics, wiring and neck attachment.
4-5. Create the radius on the edges using the router.
4-6. Sand the piece to the desired finish and shape.
5. Assembly and Finish
5-1. Begin by attaching the neck to the body with either wood glue or wood screws.
5-2. Fasten all of the electronics in place within the neck and body.
5-3. Place all 5 buttons within the buttonholes.
5-4. Fasten the fret board to the neck using small wood screws.
5-5. Apply polyurethane to every surface in which you want the wood to shine.
5-6. Let the wood dry overnight to ensure a good finish.
Tips
Select a type of wood that fits your budget.
When possible, power tools are recommended, but safety should always be a consideration when using them.
This project is not recommended for those that have no experience with woodworking.
Warnings
Using a dust mask is also advisable for the polyurethane and sanding portions of the directions.
Electronics and positioning may vary from game system to game system, especially if you are using a wireless or wired controller.
Always wear safety glasses when working with tools.
Always be extremely careful when using power tools as serious injury can result.*
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:30",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Drafting\\n1-1. Choose a style of guitar that you would like to duplicate.\\n\\n1-2. Find a standard guitar hero controller that you can use to donate the electronics from.\\n\\n1-3. Measure, Measure, Measure!!!\\nRemove all the internal controls and measure so that your custom controller can use the standard electronics.\\n1-4. Create a rough sketch of how you want your guitar to look by using the dimensions obtained from the measurements in the previous step.\\n\\n1-5. Use a large piece of paper or cardboard to create a 1:1 template of all the pieces of your guitar.\\n\\n2. The Neck\\n2-1. Find a piece of wood that is larger then your template and the desired thickness.\\n\\n2-2. Using a pencil, transfer the template onto the piece of wood.\\n\\n2-3. Use a band saw or a coping saw to cut the shape out of the piece of wood.\\n\\n2-4. Using a router create a pocket-slot for the electronics and wiring.\\n\\n2-5. For the faux tuners, anything you think can work will suffice:\\npaint, drill holes, use bolts (stainless steel button head screws were used here).\\n2-6. To create the radius on the edges use the router.\\n\\n2-7. Sand the piece to the desired finish and shape.\\n\\n3. The Fret Board\\n3-1. Find a piece of wood that is larger then your template and the desired thickness.\\n\\n3-2. Using a pencil, transfer the template onto the piece of wood.\\n\\n3-3. Use a band saw or coping saw to cut out the shape of the exterior.\\n\\n3-4. Drill small pilot holes so that the holes can be cut out easily.\\n\\n3-5. Use a jewelers say or a jigsaw to cut out each buttonhole.\\n\\n3-6. Sand the piece to the desired finish and shape.\\n\\n4. The Body\\n4-1. Find a piece of wood that is larger than your template and the desired thickness.\\n\\n4-2. Using a pencil, transfer the template onto the piece of wood.\\n\\n4-3. Use a band saw or coping saw to cut out the shape of the exterior.\\n\\n4-4. Using a router create a pocket-slot for the electronics, wiring and neck attachment.\\n\\n4-5. Create the radius on the edges using the router.\\n\\n4-6. Sand the piece to the desired finish and shape.\\n\\n5. Assembly and Finish\\n5-1. Begin by attaching the neck to the body with either wood glue or wood screws.\\n\\n5-2. Fasten all of the electronics in place within the neck and body.\\n\\n5-3. Place all 5 buttons within the buttonholes.\\n\\n5-4. Fasten the fret board to the neck using small wood screws.\\n\\n5-5. Apply polyurethane to every surface in which you want the wood to shine.\\n\\n5-6. Let the wood dry overnight to ensure a good finish.\\n\\nTips\\nSelect a type of wood that fits your budget.\\nWhen possible, power tools are recommended, but safety should always be a consideration when using them.\\nThis project is not recommended for those that have no experience with woodworking.\\nWarnings\\nUsing a dust mask is also advisable for the polyurethane and sanding portions of the directions.\\nElectronics and positioning may vary from game system to game system, especially if you are using a wireless or wired controller.\\nAlways wear safety glasses when working with tools.\\nAlways be extremely careful when using power tools as serious injury can result.*\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Want a customized guitar hero controller that you can design? Well here's complete directions on how.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drafting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a style of guitar that you would like to duplicate.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a standard guitar hero controller that you can use to donate the electronics from.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure, Measure, Measure!!!\", \"描述\": \"Remove all the internal controls and measure so that your custom controller can use the standard electronics.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a rough sketch of how you want your guitar to look by using the dimensions obtained from the measurements in the previous step.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use a large piece of paper or cardboard to create a 1:1 template of all the pieces of your guitar.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"The Neck\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a piece of wood that is larger then your template and the desired thickness.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using a pencil, transfer the template onto the piece of wood.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a band saw or a coping saw to cut the shape out of the piece of wood.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Using a router create a pocket-slot for the electronics and wiring.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"For the faux tuners, anything you think can work will suffice:\", \"描述\": \"paint, drill holes, use bolts (stainless steel button head screws were used here).\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"To create the radius on the edges use the router.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Sand the piece to the desired finish and shape.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"The Fret Board\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a piece of wood that is larger then your template and the desired thickness.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using a pencil, transfer the template onto the piece of wood.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a band saw or coping saw to cut out the shape of the exterior.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill small pilot holes so that the holes can be cut out easily.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use a jewelers say or a jigsaw to cut out each buttonhole.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Sand the piece to the desired finish and shape.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"The Body\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a piece of wood that is larger than your template and the desired thickness.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using a pencil, transfer the template onto the piece of wood.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a band saw or coping saw to cut out the shape of the exterior.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Using a router create a pocket-slot for the electronics, wiring and neck attachment.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create the radius on the edges using the router.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Sand the piece to the desired finish and shape.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Assembly and Finish\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Begin by attaching the neck to the body with either wood glue or wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fasten all of the electronics in place within the neck and body.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place all 5 buttons within the buttonholes.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fasten the fret board to the neck using small wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Apply polyurethane to every surface in which you want the wood to shine.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Let the wood dry overnight to ensure a good finish.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Select a type of wood that fits your budget.\\n\", \"When possible, power tools are recommended, but safety should always be a consideration when using them.\\n\", \"This project is not recommended for those that have no experience with woodworking.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Using a dust mask is also advisable for the polyurethane and sanding portions of the directions.\\n\", \"Electronics and positioning may vary from game system to game system, especially if you are using a wireless or wired controller.\\n\", \"Always wear safety glasses when working with tools.\\n\", \"Always be extremely careful when using power tools as serious injury can result.*\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,301 |
How to Build a Cyber Dragon Deck
|
1. Steps
1-1. Get the monsters you need.
Get yourself 3 copies of Cyber Dragon, 3 Cyber Dragon Core, and 3 Cyber Dragon Drei. These are the important ones. Add 3 Cyber Repair Plant to search your monsters.
1-2. Add supports.
Galaxy Soldier should be run at 3 to make Rank 5s, and so should Instant Fusion, which summons in Panzer Dragon. You can also run cards like Chronomaly Golden Jet and Solar Wind Jammer as Rank 5 material. If you run fusions, add 1 copy of Electromagnetic Turtle, since Rampage can send it from the Deck.
A Kaiju engine is great to use with this deck, since Kaijus are good against the meta, and Jizukiru, the Star Destroying Kaiju gets bonus synergy points with the deck. Being a Light Machine, it can be searched with Repair Plant, and you can give it to your opponent then use it for Fortress Dragon. This would be 2 Interrupted Kaiju Slumber, 2 Jizukiru, and 1-2 other Kaijus, usually Gameciel.
Brilliant Fusion also synergizes well, since Seraphinite is Level 5. The Brilliant Fusion engine is 3 Brilliant Fusion and 1 Gem-Knight Garnet. Optionally, you can run 1 Trick Clown or Electromagnetic Turtle as the Light monster to send to the Graveyard.
1-3. If you're running the Fusion variant, add Fusion Spells.
Cyber Dragon is perfectly capable of being run as a pure Xyz deck, relying on the powerful Cyber Dragon Infinity, since the Fusion Spells can be dead draws. If you want to OTK, however, Chimeratech Rampage Dragon is a lot of fun. The two best Fusion cards are Power Bond and Overload Fusion. With a bit of field clearing, Rampage should be able to OTK even without Power Bond.
1-4. Add staples.
This would be Limiter Removal, Foolish Burial, Upstart Goblin, Pot of Duality, Maxx "C", and Twin Twister. Add traps like Solemn Warning and Strike, and handtraps like Ash Blossom and Ghost Ogre, if you have room.{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/6\/64\/SolemnStrike.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/6\/64\/SolemnStrike.jpg\/185px-SolemnStrike.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":676,"bigWidth":185,"bigHeight":272,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\nLicense: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
1-5. Add Fusions.
Cyber End Dragon is cool and all, but the only ones worth running are Chimeratech Rampage Dragon and Chimeratech Fortress Dragon. Cyber Twin Dragon and Pair Cycroid are decent with Power Bond. Run Panzer Dragon for Instant Fusion and Gem-Knight Seraphinite with Brilliant Fusion. Sea Monster of Theseus can also be used with Instant Fusion, and it can make Vermilion Dragon Mech, Leo, Keeper of the Sacred Tree, and Ultimaya Tzolkin.
1-6. Add Xyz Monsters.
Cyber Dragons can easily make Rank 5 Xyz monsters, which is a very powerful Rank. Get 2 each of Cyber Dragon Nova and Cyber Dragon Infinity, since Infinity is one of the best cards Cybers have access to and Nova is needed to summon it. Also add Constellar Pleiades, Artifact Durendal, and Volcasaurus. Magnaliger and Zemaioh are good Machine monsters to get past Drei's restriction. You can add Rank 4s if you have enough Level 4s, and Gaia Dragon, the Thunder Charger, and even Synchros with Theseus or the Ghost Girl handtraps.
Tips
Cards like Cardcar D and Reckless Greed can be used in a more OTK focused build to draw through the deck. This is risky.
Cyber Dragons can also be run with Artifacts, Invoked, or ABC.
Warnings
Even though it is a Cyber Dragon deck, don't be overly reliant on Cyber Dragon and his fusions. Be sure to have an alternate mini-strategy in the deck.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:30",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Get the monsters you need.\\nGet yourself 3 copies of Cyber Dragon, 3 Cyber Dragon Core, and 3 Cyber Dragon Drei. These are the important ones. Add 3 Cyber Repair Plant to search your monsters.\\n1-2. Add supports.\\nGalaxy Soldier should be run at 3 to make Rank 5s, and so should Instant Fusion, which summons in Panzer Dragon. You can also run cards like Chronomaly Golden Jet and Solar Wind Jammer as Rank 5 material. If you run fusions, add 1 copy of Electromagnetic Turtle, since Rampage can send it from the Deck.\\nA Kaiju engine is great to use with this deck, since Kaijus are good against the meta, and Jizukiru, the Star Destroying Kaiju gets bonus synergy points with the deck. Being a Light Machine, it can be searched with Repair Plant, and you can give it to your opponent then use it for Fortress Dragon. This would be 2 Interrupted Kaiju Slumber, 2 Jizukiru, and 1-2 other Kaijus, usually Gameciel.\\nBrilliant Fusion also synergizes well, since Seraphinite is Level 5. The Brilliant Fusion engine is 3 Brilliant Fusion and 1 Gem-Knight Garnet. Optionally, you can run 1 Trick Clown or Electromagnetic Turtle as the Light monster to send to the Graveyard.\\n1-3. If you're running the Fusion variant, add Fusion Spells.\\nCyber Dragon is perfectly capable of being run as a pure Xyz deck, relying on the powerful Cyber Dragon Infinity, since the Fusion Spells can be dead draws. If you want to OTK, however, Chimeratech Rampage Dragon is a lot of fun. The two best Fusion cards are Power Bond and Overload Fusion. With a bit of field clearing, Rampage should be able to OTK even without Power Bond.\\n1-4. Add staples.\\nThis would be Limiter Removal, Foolish Burial, Upstart Goblin, Pot of Duality, Maxx \\\"C\\\", and Twin Twister. Add traps like Solemn Warning and Strike, and handtraps like Ash Blossom and Ghost Ogre, if you have room.{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/6\\\\/64\\\\/SolemnStrike.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/64\\\\/SolemnStrike.jpg\\\\/185px-SolemnStrike.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":676,\\\"bigWidth\\\":185,\\\"bigHeight\\\":272,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-5. Add Fusions.\\nCyber End Dragon is cool and all, but the only ones worth running are Chimeratech Rampage Dragon and Chimeratech Fortress Dragon. Cyber Twin Dragon and Pair Cycroid are decent with Power Bond. Run Panzer Dragon for Instant Fusion and Gem-Knight Seraphinite with Brilliant Fusion. Sea Monster of Theseus can also be used with Instant Fusion, and it can make Vermilion Dragon Mech, Leo, Keeper of the Sacred Tree, and Ultimaya Tzolkin.\\n1-6. Add Xyz Monsters.\\nCyber Dragons can easily make Rank 5 Xyz monsters, which is a very powerful Rank. Get 2 each of Cyber Dragon Nova and Cyber Dragon Infinity, since Infinity is one of the best cards Cybers have access to and Nova is needed to summon it. Also add Constellar Pleiades, Artifact Durendal, and Volcasaurus. Magnaliger and Zemaioh are good Machine monsters to get past Drei's restriction. You can add Rank 4s if you have enough Level 4s, and Gaia Dragon, the Thunder Charger, and even Synchros with Theseus or the Ghost Girl handtraps.\\nTips\\nCards like Cardcar D and Reckless Greed can be used in a more OTK focused build to draw through the deck. This is risky.\\nCyber Dragons can also be run with Artifacts, Invoked, or ABC.\\nWarnings\\nEven though it is a Cyber Dragon deck, don't be overly reliant on Cyber Dragon and his fusions. Be sure to have an alternate mini-strategy in the deck.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Cyber Dragon is a deck of powerful Light Machine-Type monsters that focuses around summoning powerful beaters using Cyber Dragon and its support cards. It is a fast and powerful deck whose fusion monsters can quite easily pull off OTKs. If you want to take your opponent's Life Points out fast with extremely powerful monsters, Cyber Dragons are for you.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get the monsters you need.\", \"描述\": \"Get yourself 3 copies of Cyber Dragon, 3 Cyber Dragon Core, and 3 Cyber Dragon Drei. These are the important ones. Add 3 Cyber Repair Plant to search your monsters.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add supports.\", \"描述\": \"Galaxy Soldier should be run at 3 to make Rank 5s, and so should Instant Fusion, which summons in Panzer Dragon. You can also run cards like Chronomaly Golden Jet and Solar Wind Jammer as Rank 5 material. If you run fusions, add 1 copy of Electromagnetic Turtle, since Rampage can send it from the Deck.\\nA Kaiju engine is great to use with this deck, since Kaijus are good against the meta, and Jizukiru, the Star Destroying Kaiju gets bonus synergy points with the deck. Being a Light Machine, it can be searched with Repair Plant, and you can give it to your opponent then use it for Fortress Dragon. This would be 2 Interrupted Kaiju Slumber, 2 Jizukiru, and 1-2 other Kaijus, usually Gameciel.\\nBrilliant Fusion also synergizes well, since Seraphinite is Level 5. The Brilliant Fusion engine is 3 Brilliant Fusion and 1 Gem-Knight Garnet. Optionally, you can run 1 Trick Clown or Electromagnetic Turtle as the Light monster to send to the Graveyard.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"If you're running the Fusion variant, add Fusion Spells.\", \"描述\": \"Cyber Dragon is perfectly capable of being run as a pure Xyz deck, relying on the powerful Cyber Dragon Infinity, since the Fusion Spells can be dead draws. If you want to OTK, however, Chimeratech Rampage Dragon is a lot of fun. The two best Fusion cards are Power Bond and Overload Fusion. With a bit of field clearing, Rampage should be able to OTK even without Power Bond.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add staples.\", \"描述\": \"This would be Limiter Removal, Foolish Burial, Upstart Goblin, Pot of Duality, Maxx \\\"C\\\", and Twin Twister. Add traps like Solemn Warning and Strike, and handtraps like Ash Blossom and Ghost Ogre, if you have room.{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/6\\\\/64\\\\/SolemnStrike.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/64\\\\/SolemnStrike.jpg\\\\/185px-SolemnStrike.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":676,\\\"bigWidth\\\":185,\\\"bigHeight\\\":272,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add Fusions.\", \"描述\": \"Cyber End Dragon is cool and all, but the only ones worth running are Chimeratech Rampage Dragon and Chimeratech Fortress Dragon. Cyber Twin Dragon and Pair Cycroid are decent with Power Bond. Run Panzer Dragon for Instant Fusion and Gem-Knight Seraphinite with Brilliant Fusion. Sea Monster of Theseus can also be used with Instant Fusion, and it can make Vermilion Dragon Mech, Leo, Keeper of the Sacred Tree, and Ultimaya Tzolkin.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add Xyz Monsters.\", \"描述\": \"Cyber Dragons can easily make Rank 5 Xyz monsters, which is a very powerful Rank. Get 2 each of Cyber Dragon Nova and Cyber Dragon Infinity, since Infinity is one of the best cards Cybers have access to and Nova is needed to summon it. Also add Constellar Pleiades, Artifact Durendal, and Volcasaurus. Magnaliger and Zemaioh are good Machine monsters to get past Drei's restriction. You can add Rank 4s if you have enough Level 4s, and Gaia Dragon, the Thunder Charger, and even Synchros with Theseus or the Ghost Girl handtraps.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Cards like Cardcar D and Reckless Greed can be used in a more OTK focused build to draw through the deck. This is risky.\\n\", \"Cyber Dragons can also be run with Artifacts, Invoked, or ABC.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Even though it is a Cyber Dragon deck, don't be overly reliant on Cyber Dragon and his fusions. Be sure to have an alternate mini-strategy in the deck.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,302 |
How to Build a DNA Model
|
1. Using Pipe Cleaners
1-1. Purchase a pack of multicolor pipe cleaners.
Try to look for a pack of pipe cleaners that has at least 6 colors in it. You’ll need different colors for the different parts of your DNA model. Plus, they’ll make your model more vibrant and interesting to look at!
If you can’t find a pack of pipe cleaners with 6 colors in it, that’s okay. You can use the same colors for different sections of your DNA model if necessary.
You can find pipe cleaners at your local craft store or department store, or you can order some online.
1-2. Choose 2 colors for the outer strands and 4 colors for the inner strands.
Your DNA model will have strands that run along the outside of the model and strands that are on the inside. The colors you choose for the strands don’t matter, but try to use 6 different colors if you can.
For example, you could choose blue and pink pipe cleaners for the outer strands and green, yellow, purple, and red pipe cleaners for the inner strands.
The 2 colors for the outer strands will represent sugar (deoxyribose) and phosphate, while the 4 colors for the inner strands will be the cytosine, thymine, guanine, and adenine.
1-3. Grab a pipe cleaner in each outer-strand color and twist them together.
To twist the pipe cleaners together, start by holding them so they’re parallel and their sides are touching. Then, use your hands to twist them together, starting at one end and working your way down to the opposite end.
When you’re finished, you should have one long, twisted strand made up of 2 different color pipe cleaners.
1-4. Repeat with 2 pipe cleaners in the same colors to make the other strand.
When you’re done, you should have 2 matching, twisted outer strands. Make sure you use the same 2 colors for both of the outer strands you make.
For example, if you used pink and blue pipe cleaners to make the first outer strand, you’ll want to use pink and blue pipe cleaners to make the second outer strand as well.
1-5. Take a pipe cleaner in each inner-strand color and cut it into 5 equal pieces.
To cut the pipe cleaners into 5 equal pieces, start by measuring out the 5 sections with a ruler (or eyeballing it if you’d prefer) and bending the pipe cleaners where you’ll make each cut. Then, use a pair of scissors to cut through the creases along each of the pipe cleaners so that each one is divided up into 5 equal parts.
Since you’ll be using 4 pipe cleaners and cutting each one into 5 equal pieces, you should end up with 20 pieces in total.
1-6. Pair 10 inner strand pieces with each outer strand.
It doesn’t matter which inner strand pieces you pair with each outer strand, but try to only use 2 inner-strand colors per outer strand. Make sure all the nitrogenous bases (adenine, thymine, cytosine, and guanine) are represented on each outer strand. In order to do this, assign a particular color to each base.
For example, you could use red for adenine, blue for thymine, green for cytosine, and yellow for guanine.
After you’ve assigned the colors, you can accurately pair the complementary bases. Adenine always pairs with thymine, while guanine pairs with cytosine. So, if you have a red (adenine) pipe cleaner on one side, put a blue (thymine) pipe cleaner in the same spot on the other side, and so on.
Once you’ve paired up the inner and outer strands, keep them separated so you don’t get all of the pipe cleaners mixed up.
1-7. Attach the inner strands to their corresponding outer strand.
To attach the strands, wrap the inner strands around their outer strand so they’re evenly spaced apart up and down the strand. Alternate colors as you go. Leave about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of each inner strand extending off of the outer strand it’s attached to.
You want the ends of the inner strands that are extending off of the outer strands to all be going in the same direction.
1-8. Line up the inner strands on both outer strands and tape them together.
When you line up the strands, the pipe cleaners should look like a ladder. To tape the inner strands together, simply line up the ends so they’re overlapping slightly and then wrap a piece of clear tape around them. Do this for each set of inner strands along your model.
If you don’t have clear tape, that’s OK. You can use different tape instead. It may just be a little visible once your model is finished.
1-9. Twist the strands into a helix to finish your DNA model.
To twist your model into a helix, start by grabbing onto each end with your hands and slowly twisting your hands in opposite directions. Once your model has a spiral shape, press your hands together to squish the model flat, which will help the pipe cleaners remain twisted in a helix. Once your DNA model retains its shape, you’re finished!
If your model starts to lose its shape after a while, just twist and compress it with your hands again.
2. Making a DNA Model with Styrofoam
2-1. Purchase 48 white Styrofoam balls for your project.
Look for Styrofoam balls that are around 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Make sure you get white balls since you’ll need to paint them different colors for your project.
You can find Styrofoam balls at your local craft store or online.
2-2. Take 24 of the balls and paint 12 green and leave 12 white.
These green and white balls will make up the strands that run along the outside of your DNA model, or the sugar and phosphate of your double helix. To paint half of the balls green, use a paintbrush to apply a thin layer of green, water-based paint. Then, set the balls aside to dry while you work on the rest of your model.
You can find water-based paint at your local craft store or department store. You can also order some online.
2-3. Split the other 24 balls into piles of 6 and paint each pile a different color.
Use red, blue, yellow, and orange to paint the balls in the piles. These balls will make up the inner strands of your DNA model, which represent guanine, cytosine, thymine, and adenine.
When you’re finished painting each ball, set it aside to dry on a sheet of newspaper or a paper towel.
You should have 6 red balls, 6 blue balls, 6 yellow balls, and 6 orange balls.
2-4. Slide 1 red ball and 1 yellow ball onto a toothpick so they’re connected.
Your DNA model will be made up of individual “rungs” (like on a ladder), and these 2 balls will be the center of the first rung. Leave a little space between the balls so they’re not touching.
2-5. Attach a white ball to each end of the first rung.
To attach the white balls, start by inserting toothpicks into the red and yellow balls so that each toothpick is lined up with the toothpick in the center. Then, stick a white ball onto the end of each toothpick.
When you’re finished, the first rung should have a white ball on each end and a red and yellow ball in the middle.
2-6. Insert toothpicks into the tops of the white balls at opposite angles.
These toothpicks—1 on each white ball—will help support the next rung up on your DNA model, so you want them to be sticking up out of the top of the white balls on the first rung. However, to give your DNA model the proper helix shape, you’ll want to angle the toothpicks slightly and insert them so they’re pointing in opposite directions.
The angle of the toothpicks doesn’t need to be precise. As long as they’re sticking up at an angle and they’re angled in opposite directions, your model will work.
2-7. Stick a green ball onto the toothpicks sticking out of each white ball.
Push the green balls down all the way so they’re touching the white balls. These green and white balls will make up the outer strands of your model, and they’ll help support the next rung. The green balls represent phosphate, while the white ones represent sugar (deoxyribose).
Since you angled the toothpicks in the white balls, the green balls should be sitting on top of the white balls at an angle as well.
2-8. Create the next rung using blue and orange balls this time.
The colors should alternate in each rung in your model. Since you used red and yellow balls to make the first rung, you’ll want to use blue and orange balls to make the next one. Just like with the first rung, start by connecting a blue and orange ball with a toothpick. Then, attach a white ball to each end of the rung.
In order to accurately represent the complementary base pairs, make sure to always pair red with yellow and blue with orange between the 2 strands.
You should also insert a toothpick into each white ball so they’re angled in opposite directions like you did with the first rung.
2-9. Use toothpicks to attach the second rung to the green balls.
Insert a toothpick into each green ball so it’s angled in the same direction as the toothpick in the white ball below it. Then, stick the white balls at the end of the second rung onto these toothpicks.
At this point you’ll be able to see the beginning of your DNA model’s helix shape.
2-10. Continue to attach new rungs until you’ve used all of the Styrofoam balls.
Remember to alternate the colors you’re using when you’re building the rungs. Also, don’t forget to attach green balls in between each rung in the model. Once you’ve used all of the balls, your DNA model is finished!
If you want your model to stand up on its own, attach the rung at the bottom to a Styrofoam block using toothpicks.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:30",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Using Pipe Cleaners\\n1-1. Purchase a pack of multicolor pipe cleaners.\\nTry to look for a pack of pipe cleaners that has at least 6 colors in it. You’ll need different colors for the different parts of your DNA model. Plus, they’ll make your model more vibrant and interesting to look at!\\nIf you can’t find a pack of pipe cleaners with 6 colors in it, that’s okay. You can use the same colors for different sections of your DNA model if necessary.\\nYou can find pipe cleaners at your local craft store or department store, or you can order some online.\\n1-2. Choose 2 colors for the outer strands and 4 colors for the inner strands.\\nYour DNA model will have strands that run along the outside of the model and strands that are on the inside. The colors you choose for the strands don’t matter, but try to use 6 different colors if you can.\\nFor example, you could choose blue and pink pipe cleaners for the outer strands and green, yellow, purple, and red pipe cleaners for the inner strands.\\nThe 2 colors for the outer strands will represent sugar (deoxyribose) and phosphate, while the 4 colors for the inner strands will be the cytosine, thymine, guanine, and adenine.\\n1-3. Grab a pipe cleaner in each outer-strand color and twist them together.\\nTo twist the pipe cleaners together, start by holding them so they’re parallel and their sides are touching. Then, use your hands to twist them together, starting at one end and working your way down to the opposite end.\\nWhen you’re finished, you should have one long, twisted strand made up of 2 different color pipe cleaners.\\n1-4. Repeat with 2 pipe cleaners in the same colors to make the other strand.\\nWhen you’re done, you should have 2 matching, twisted outer strands. Make sure you use the same 2 colors for both of the outer strands you make.\\nFor example, if you used pink and blue pipe cleaners to make the first outer strand, you’ll want to use pink and blue pipe cleaners to make the second outer strand as well.\\n1-5. Take a pipe cleaner in each inner-strand color and cut it into 5 equal pieces.\\nTo cut the pipe cleaners into 5 equal pieces, start by measuring out the 5 sections with a ruler (or eyeballing it if you’d prefer) and bending the pipe cleaners where you’ll make each cut. Then, use a pair of scissors to cut through the creases along each of the pipe cleaners so that each one is divided up into 5 equal parts.\\nSince you’ll be using 4 pipe cleaners and cutting each one into 5 equal pieces, you should end up with 20 pieces in total.\\n1-6. Pair 10 inner strand pieces with each outer strand.\\nIt doesn’t matter which inner strand pieces you pair with each outer strand, but try to only use 2 inner-strand colors per outer strand. Make sure all the nitrogenous bases (adenine, thymine, cytosine, and guanine) are represented on each outer strand. In order to do this, assign a particular color to each base.\\nFor example, you could use red for adenine, blue for thymine, green for cytosine, and yellow for guanine.\\nAfter you’ve assigned the colors, you can accurately pair the complementary bases. Adenine always pairs with thymine, while guanine pairs with cytosine. So, if you have a red (adenine) pipe cleaner on one side, put a blue (thymine) pipe cleaner in the same spot on the other side, and so on.\\nOnce you’ve paired up the inner and outer strands, keep them separated so you don’t get all of the pipe cleaners mixed up.\\n1-7. Attach the inner strands to their corresponding outer strand.\\nTo attach the strands, wrap the inner strands around their outer strand so they’re evenly spaced apart up and down the strand. Alternate colors as you go. Leave about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of each inner strand extending off of the outer strand it’s attached to.\\nYou want the ends of the inner strands that are extending off of the outer strands to all be going in the same direction.\\n1-8. Line up the inner strands on both outer strands and tape them together.\\nWhen you line up the strands, the pipe cleaners should look like a ladder. To tape the inner strands together, simply line up the ends so they’re overlapping slightly and then wrap a piece of clear tape around them. Do this for each set of inner strands along your model.\\nIf you don’t have clear tape, that’s OK. You can use different tape instead. It may just be a little visible once your model is finished.\\n1-9. Twist the strands into a helix to finish your DNA model.\\nTo twist your model into a helix, start by grabbing onto each end with your hands and slowly twisting your hands in opposite directions. Once your model has a spiral shape, press your hands together to squish the model flat, which will help the pipe cleaners remain twisted in a helix. Once your DNA model retains its shape, you’re finished!\\nIf your model starts to lose its shape after a while, just twist and compress it with your hands again.\\n2. Making a DNA Model with Styrofoam\\n2-1. Purchase 48 white Styrofoam balls for your project.\\nLook for Styrofoam balls that are around 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Make sure you get white balls since you’ll need to paint them different colors for your project.\\nYou can find Styrofoam balls at your local craft store or online.\\n2-2. Take 24 of the balls and paint 12 green and leave 12 white.\\nThese green and white balls will make up the strands that run along the outside of your DNA model, or the sugar and phosphate of your double helix. To paint half of the balls green, use a paintbrush to apply a thin layer of green, water-based paint. Then, set the balls aside to dry while you work on the rest of your model.\\nYou can find water-based paint at your local craft store or department store. You can also order some online.\\n2-3. Split the other 24 balls into piles of 6 and paint each pile a different color.\\nUse red, blue, yellow, and orange to paint the balls in the piles. These balls will make up the inner strands of your DNA model, which represent guanine, cytosine, thymine, and adenine.\\nWhen you’re finished painting each ball, set it aside to dry on a sheet of newspaper or a paper towel.\\nYou should have 6 red balls, 6 blue balls, 6 yellow balls, and 6 orange balls.\\n2-4. Slide 1 red ball and 1 yellow ball onto a toothpick so they’re connected.\\nYour DNA model will be made up of individual “rungs” (like on a ladder), and these 2 balls will be the center of the first rung. Leave a little space between the balls so they’re not touching.\\n2-5. Attach a white ball to each end of the first rung.\\nTo attach the white balls, start by inserting toothpicks into the red and yellow balls so that each toothpick is lined up with the toothpick in the center. Then, stick a white ball onto the end of each toothpick.\\nWhen you’re finished, the first rung should have a white ball on each end and a red and yellow ball in the middle.\\n2-6. Insert toothpicks into the tops of the white balls at opposite angles.\\nThese toothpicks—1 on each white ball—will help support the next rung up on your DNA model, so you want them to be sticking up out of the top of the white balls on the first rung. However, to give your DNA model the proper helix shape, you’ll want to angle the toothpicks slightly and insert them so they’re pointing in opposite directions.\\nThe angle of the toothpicks doesn’t need to be precise. As long as they’re sticking up at an angle and they’re angled in opposite directions, your model will work.\\n2-7. Stick a green ball onto the toothpicks sticking out of each white ball.\\nPush the green balls down all the way so they’re touching the white balls. These green and white balls will make up the outer strands of your model, and they’ll help support the next rung. The green balls represent phosphate, while the white ones represent sugar (deoxyribose).\\nSince you angled the toothpicks in the white balls, the green balls should be sitting on top of the white balls at an angle as well.\\n2-8. Create the next rung using blue and orange balls this time.\\nThe colors should alternate in each rung in your model. Since you used red and yellow balls to make the first rung, you’ll want to use blue and orange balls to make the next one. Just like with the first rung, start by connecting a blue and orange ball with a toothpick. Then, attach a white ball to each end of the rung.\\nIn order to accurately represent the complementary base pairs, make sure to always pair red with yellow and blue with orange between the 2 strands.\\nYou should also insert a toothpick into each white ball so they’re angled in opposite directions like you did with the first rung.\\n2-9. Use toothpicks to attach the second rung to the green balls.\\nInsert a toothpick into each green ball so it’s angled in the same direction as the toothpick in the white ball below it. Then, stick the white balls at the end of the second rung onto these toothpicks.\\nAt this point you’ll be able to see the beginning of your DNA model’s helix shape.\\n2-10. Continue to attach new rungs until you’ve used all of the Styrofoam balls.\\nRemember to alternate the colors you’re using when you’re building the rungs. Also, don’t forget to attach green balls in between each rung in the model. Once you’ve used all of the balls, your DNA model is finished!\\nIf you want your model to stand up on its own, attach the rung at the bottom to a Styrofoam block using toothpicks.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Making your own DNA model is a fun science project that you can do with all kinds of easy-to-find materials. Using either pipe cleaners and tape or styrofoam balls and toothpicks, you can build a 3-dimensional model that has all the components of a double helix, including the sugar (deoxyribose) and phosphate backbone and the nitrogenous bases (cytosine, thymine, guanine, and adenine).\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Using Pipe Cleaners\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase a pack of multicolor pipe cleaners.\", \"描述\": \"Try to look for a pack of pipe cleaners that has at least 6 colors in it. You’ll need different colors for the different parts of your DNA model. Plus, they’ll make your model more vibrant and interesting to look at!\\nIf you can’t find a pack of pipe cleaners with 6 colors in it, that’s okay. You can use the same colors for different sections of your DNA model if necessary.\\nYou can find pipe cleaners at your local craft store or department store, or you can order some online.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose 2 colors for the outer strands and 4 colors for the inner strands.\", \"描述\": \"Your DNA model will have strands that run along the outside of the model and strands that are on the inside. The colors you choose for the strands don’t matter, but try to use 6 different colors if you can.\\nFor example, you could choose blue and pink pipe cleaners for the outer strands and green, yellow, purple, and red pipe cleaners for the inner strands.\\nThe 2 colors for the outer strands will represent sugar (deoxyribose) and phosphate, while the 4 colors for the inner strands will be the cytosine, thymine, guanine, and adenine.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Grab a pipe cleaner in each outer-strand color and twist them together.\", \"描述\": \"To twist the pipe cleaners together, start by holding them so they’re parallel and their sides are touching. Then, use your hands to twist them together, starting at one end and working your way down to the opposite end.\\nWhen you’re finished, you should have one long, twisted strand made up of 2 different color pipe cleaners.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat with 2 pipe cleaners in the same colors to make the other strand.\", \"描述\": \"When you’re done, you should have 2 matching, twisted outer strands. Make sure you use the same 2 colors for both of the outer strands you make.\\nFor example, if you used pink and blue pipe cleaners to make the first outer strand, you’ll want to use pink and blue pipe cleaners to make the second outer strand as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Take a pipe cleaner in each inner-strand color and cut it into 5 equal pieces.\", \"描述\": \"To cut the pipe cleaners into 5 equal pieces, start by measuring out the 5 sections with a ruler (or eyeballing it if you’d prefer) and bending the pipe cleaners where you’ll make each cut. Then, use a pair of scissors to cut through the creases along each of the pipe cleaners so that each one is divided up into 5 equal parts.\\nSince you’ll be using 4 pipe cleaners and cutting each one into 5 equal pieces, you should end up with 20 pieces in total.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pair 10 inner strand pieces with each outer strand.\", \"描述\": \"It doesn’t matter which inner strand pieces you pair with each outer strand, but try to only use 2 inner-strand colors per outer strand. Make sure all the nitrogenous bases (adenine, thymine, cytosine, and guanine) are represented on each outer strand. In order to do this, assign a particular color to each base.\\nFor example, you could use red for adenine, blue for thymine, green for cytosine, and yellow for guanine.\\nAfter you’ve assigned the colors, you can accurately pair the complementary bases. Adenine always pairs with thymine, while guanine pairs with cytosine. So, if you have a red (adenine) pipe cleaner on one side, put a blue (thymine) pipe cleaner in the same spot on the other side, and so on.\\nOnce you’ve paired up the inner and outer strands, keep them separated so you don’t get all of the pipe cleaners mixed up.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the inner strands to their corresponding outer strand.\", \"描述\": \"To attach the strands, wrap the inner strands around their outer strand so they’re evenly spaced apart up and down the strand. Alternate colors as you go. Leave about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of each inner strand extending off of the outer strand it’s attached to.\\nYou want the ends of the inner strands that are extending off of the outer strands to all be going in the same direction.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Line up the inner strands on both outer strands and tape them together.\", \"描述\": \"When you line up the strands, the pipe cleaners should look like a ladder. To tape the inner strands together, simply line up the ends so they’re overlapping slightly and then wrap a piece of clear tape around them. Do this for each set of inner strands along your model.\\nIf you don’t have clear tape, that’s OK. You can use different tape instead. It may just be a little visible once your model is finished.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Twist the strands into a helix to finish your DNA model.\", \"描述\": \"To twist your model into a helix, start by grabbing onto each end with your hands and slowly twisting your hands in opposite directions. Once your model has a spiral shape, press your hands together to squish the model flat, which will help the pipe cleaners remain twisted in a helix. Once your DNA model retains its shape, you’re finished!\\nIf your model starts to lose its shape after a while, just twist and compress it with your hands again.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a DNA Model with Styrofoam\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase 48 white Styrofoam balls for your project.\", \"描述\": \"Look for Styrofoam balls that are around 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Make sure you get white balls since you’ll need to paint them different colors for your project.\\nYou can find Styrofoam balls at your local craft store or online.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take 24 of the balls and paint 12 green and leave 12 white.\", \"描述\": \"These green and white balls will make up the strands that run along the outside of your DNA model, or the sugar and phosphate of your double helix. To paint half of the balls green, use a paintbrush to apply a thin layer of green, water-based paint. Then, set the balls aside to dry while you work on the rest of your model.\\nYou can find water-based paint at your local craft store or department store. You can also order some online.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Split the other 24 balls into piles of 6 and paint each pile a different color.\", \"描述\": \"Use red, blue, yellow, and orange to paint the balls in the piles. These balls will make up the inner strands of your DNA model, which represent guanine, cytosine, thymine, and adenine.\\nWhen you’re finished painting each ball, set it aside to dry on a sheet of newspaper or a paper towel.\\nYou should have 6 red balls, 6 blue balls, 6 yellow balls, and 6 orange balls.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Slide 1 red ball and 1 yellow ball onto a toothpick so they’re connected.\", \"描述\": \"Your DNA model will be made up of individual “rungs” (like on a ladder), and these 2 balls will be the center of the first rung. Leave a little space between the balls so they’re not touching.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach a white ball to each end of the first rung.\", \"描述\": \"To attach the white balls, start by inserting toothpicks into the red and yellow balls so that each toothpick is lined up with the toothpick in the center. Then, stick a white ball onto the end of each toothpick.\\nWhen you’re finished, the first rung should have a white ball on each end and a red and yellow ball in the middle.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Insert toothpicks into the tops of the white balls at opposite angles.\", \"描述\": \"These toothpicks—1 on each white ball—will help support the next rung up on your DNA model, so you want them to be sticking up out of the top of the white balls on the first rung. However, to give your DNA model the proper helix shape, you’ll want to angle the toothpicks slightly and insert them so they’re pointing in opposite directions.\\nThe angle of the toothpicks doesn’t need to be precise. As long as they’re sticking up at an angle and they’re angled in opposite directions, your model will work.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Stick a green ball onto the toothpicks sticking out of each white ball.\", \"描述\": \"Push the green balls down all the way so they’re touching the white balls. These green and white balls will make up the outer strands of your model, and they’ll help support the next rung. The green balls represent phosphate, while the white ones represent sugar (deoxyribose).\\nSince you angled the toothpicks in the white balls, the green balls should be sitting on top of the white balls at an angle as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Create the next rung using blue and orange balls this time.\", \"描述\": \"The colors should alternate in each rung in your model. Since you used red and yellow balls to make the first rung, you’ll want to use blue and orange balls to make the next one. Just like with the first rung, start by connecting a blue and orange ball with a toothpick. Then, attach a white ball to each end of the rung.\\nIn order to accurately represent the complementary base pairs, make sure to always pair red with yellow and blue with orange between the 2 strands.\\nYou should also insert a toothpick into each white ball so they’re angled in opposite directions like you did with the first rung.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Use toothpicks to attach the second rung to the green balls.\", \"描述\": \"Insert a toothpick into each green ball so it’s angled in the same direction as the toothpick in the white ball below it. Then, stick the white balls at the end of the second rung onto these toothpicks.\\nAt this point you’ll be able to see the beginning of your DNA model’s helix shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Continue to attach new rungs until you’ve used all of the Styrofoam balls.\", \"描述\": \"Remember to alternate the colors you’re using when you’re building the rungs. Also, don’t forget to attach green balls in between each rung in the model. Once you’ve used all of the balls, your DNA model is finished!\\nIf you want your model to stand up on its own, attach the rung at the bottom to a Styrofoam block using toothpicks.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,303 |
How to Build a Dance Floor
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1. Building a Dance Floor for a Carpeted Room
1-1. Select plywood.
Plywood comes in several different types of wood and thicknesses. The type of wood does not matter too much. A ¾ in (2 cm) thickness is ideal, especially if you live in an apartment and there are folks who live beneath you. If noise is not an issue, ½ in (1.3 cm) thick plywood will work.
Plywood usually comes in 4x8 ft (1.2x2.4 m) boards. Two of these boards positioned side-by-side is usually ideal for a home dance floor.
1-2. Get a polyurethane sealant.
Sealing your dance floor will help make it much more resilient and help it last longer. You’ll apply sealant to the wood you’re using for the dance floor's surface before assembling the dance floor. Sealants are available at the hardware store or online.
1-3. Set up a space to seal the boards outside.
The easiest option is laying the boards down flat on a tarp. If you have a couple saw horses, you can also position the board on the saw horses with a tarp on the ground to catch any dripping sealant.
1-4. Follow the specific directions on the sealant.
Most likely, you will be directed to sand the board, clean it with mineral spirits, apply a coat of the sealant with a brush, allow it to dry, and do it all again. Be sure to follow the directions of your sealant closely, as they will help ensure a good, smooth seal.
Apply three or four coats and sand the surface before each coat.
Once a coat has dried, walk around the board and look at from several angles. Pay extra attention to any patches that aren’t shiny when applying the next layer.
1-5. Get two pieces of 4x8 ft (1.2x2.4 m) plywood.
When assembled side by side, two sheets of plywood will make the perfect sized dance floor for home use in a carpeted room. If you want the dance floor to be lighter and a bit easier to move, have the hardware store cut each sheet down to 3.5x8 ft (1x2.4 m).
1-6. Determine which sides will be your dance surface.
Before fastening the boards to one another, inspect each side of your plywood boards. Position the boards on the floor with the side that will be the dancing surface facing down. The sides of the boards facing up will be the bottom of your dance floor, which will allow you to attach a hinge and fasten the two boards together.
When positioned snugly side by side, the boards will make an 8x8 ft (2.4x2.4 m) dance floor.
1-7. Attach the plywood sheets to one another with a hinge.
Including a hinge on your dance floor will keep each half together and will make the floor easy to move and store. A five or six foot piano hinge is ideal, but you can also use multiple smaller hinges instead.
Use wood screws to fasten the hinges to the sheets of plywood. Make sure the screws are shorter than the thickness of the plywood.
Position the hinges so that the boards rest snugly side by side when the hinges are open.
1-8. Consider adding rounded trim.
Rounded trim on the edges of your dance floor will improve its appearance, reduce stubbed toes, and allow you to more comfortably step on the edge of the floor. When selecting pieces of trim, make sure individual pieces are slightly longer than the sides of the floor, and that they are the same thickness as the plywood you used.
1-9. Cut the trim to meet at the corners.
In order for the pieces of trim to meet snugly at the corners of your dance floor, they need to be cut at 45-degree angles. Take care to account for this angle when measuring your piece. For instance, for a 8 ft (2.4 m) side of the dance floor, you’ll need a piece of trim that’s 8 ft (2.4 m) long not including the angled portion of the trim.
If you’re using ½ in (1.3 cm) plywood and ½ in (1.3 cm) rounded trim, the outside edge of the trim (which will include the angled portion) will be 8 ft (2.4 m) and 1 in (2.5 cm) long.
Note that you’ll need to cut the trim in half on the sides that have the split to allow the dance floor to fold.
1-10. Glue the trim to the dance floor.
Use wood glue to fasten the trim to the edges of the dance floor. Make sure you’re putting the halved pieces of trim on the right sides of the floor.
1-11. Nail the trim down.
Once the glue has dried, hammer finishing nails into the trim about a foot apart. Make sure to position the nails to angle slightly downwards, so they don’t angle up and penetrate the surface of the dance floor.
Don’t skip the nailing step. Even if the trim seems extremely well-attached after the glue has dried, it will eventually come off if you don’t nail it down.
2. Assembling a Cushioned Dance Floor
2-1. Get a shock absorbing subfloor.
If you’re hoping to install a dance floor on a hard surface, such as concrete, the dance floor will need to be “sprung” or otherwise cushioned for comfort and safety. There are many ways to do so for professional floors. The easiest option for a home dance floor employs a layer of dense foam that is often referred to as “closed-cell” subflooring.
There are lots of options even within closed-cell foam subflooring. The foam can be purchased in individual, connectable squares, or in a roll. Contact your local hardware store or look for dance floor subflooring online.
2-2. Try foam mats with a stiff middle layer of flooring.
Some flooring companies provide especially easy-to-install materials that are designed for use in cushioned dance floors. Look online for close-cell foam subflooring and clip-together athletic tiles that provides a middle layer between the foam and whatever dance surface you finish your dance floor with.
The cost of both of these layers together comes up to about $5/sqft (roughly $15/sq meter).
2-3. Buy pre-built sprung floor panels.
You can by panels of “sprung” flooring, such as that found in high-tier dance studios and performance halls, that can be attached together and covered with a dance flooring surface. They are easily assembled and can be taken apart and moved. This is an especially convenient route if you plan to build a commercial dance floor yourself.
2-4. Select a dance surface to top your subflooring.
Subflooring simply provides the cushioning necessary to absorb the impact from dancers, provide elasticity, and prevent injuries. However, you still need a layer of dance flooring to go on top of the subflooring. Depending on the type of subflooring you use, you may also need a stiff middle layer in between.
There are plenty of different dance flooring materials to choose from, such as Marley flooring. Most will be a thin, durable material similar to that of a yoga mat.
This top layer usually costs $2-4 per sqft (0.2-0.4 meters squared).
Tips
Install mirrors on the walls around the dance floor so dancers can check their form as they practice.
Make sure you have the equipment for dancing in the room and be careful when nailing the woods together so as to hurt yourself.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:30",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Dance Floor for a Carpeted Room\\n1-1. Select plywood.\\nPlywood comes in several different types of wood and thicknesses. The type of wood does not matter too much. A ¾ in (2 cm) thickness is ideal, especially if you live in an apartment and there are folks who live beneath you. If noise is not an issue, ½ in (1.3 cm) thick plywood will work.\\nPlywood usually comes in 4x8 ft (1.2x2.4 m) boards. Two of these boards positioned side-by-side is usually ideal for a home dance floor.\\n1-2. Get a polyurethane sealant.\\nSealing your dance floor will help make it much more resilient and help it last longer. You’ll apply sealant to the wood you’re using for the dance floor's surface before assembling the dance floor. Sealants are available at the hardware store or online.\\n1-3. Set up a space to seal the boards outside.\\nThe easiest option is laying the boards down flat on a tarp. If you have a couple saw horses, you can also position the board on the saw horses with a tarp on the ground to catch any dripping sealant.\\n1-4. Follow the specific directions on the sealant.\\nMost likely, you will be directed to sand the board, clean it with mineral spirits, apply a coat of the sealant with a brush, allow it to dry, and do it all again. Be sure to follow the directions of your sealant closely, as they will help ensure a good, smooth seal.\\nApply three or four coats and sand the surface before each coat.\\nOnce a coat has dried, walk around the board and look at from several angles. Pay extra attention to any patches that aren’t shiny when applying the next layer.\\n1-5. Get two pieces of 4x8 ft (1.2x2.4 m) plywood.\\nWhen assembled side by side, two sheets of plywood will make the perfect sized dance floor for home use in a carpeted room. If you want the dance floor to be lighter and a bit easier to move, have the hardware store cut each sheet down to 3.5x8 ft (1x2.4 m).\\n1-6. Determine which sides will be your dance surface.\\nBefore fastening the boards to one another, inspect each side of your plywood boards. Position the boards on the floor with the side that will be the dancing surface facing down. The sides of the boards facing up will be the bottom of your dance floor, which will allow you to attach a hinge and fasten the two boards together.\\nWhen positioned snugly side by side, the boards will make an 8x8 ft (2.4x2.4 m) dance floor.\\n1-7. Attach the plywood sheets to one another with a hinge.\\nIncluding a hinge on your dance floor will keep each half together and will make the floor easy to move and store. A five or six foot piano hinge is ideal, but you can also use multiple smaller hinges instead.\\nUse wood screws to fasten the hinges to the sheets of plywood. Make sure the screws are shorter than the thickness of the plywood.\\nPosition the hinges so that the boards rest snugly side by side when the hinges are open.\\n1-8. Consider adding rounded trim.\\nRounded trim on the edges of your dance floor will improve its appearance, reduce stubbed toes, and allow you to more comfortably step on the edge of the floor. When selecting pieces of trim, make sure individual pieces are slightly longer than the sides of the floor, and that they are the same thickness as the plywood you used.\\n1-9. Cut the trim to meet at the corners.\\nIn order for the pieces of trim to meet snugly at the corners of your dance floor, they need to be cut at 45-degree angles. Take care to account for this angle when measuring your piece. For instance, for a 8 ft (2.4 m) side of the dance floor, you’ll need a piece of trim that’s 8 ft (2.4 m) long not including the angled portion of the trim.\\nIf you’re using ½ in (1.3 cm) plywood and ½ in (1.3 cm) rounded trim, the outside edge of the trim (which will include the angled portion) will be 8 ft (2.4 m) and 1 in (2.5 cm) long.\\nNote that you’ll need to cut the trim in half on the sides that have the split to allow the dance floor to fold.\\n1-10. Glue the trim to the dance floor.\\nUse wood glue to fasten the trim to the edges of the dance floor. Make sure you’re putting the halved pieces of trim on the right sides of the floor.\\n1-11. Nail the trim down.\\nOnce the glue has dried, hammer finishing nails into the trim about a foot apart. Make sure to position the nails to angle slightly downwards, so they don’t angle up and penetrate the surface of the dance floor.\\nDon’t skip the nailing step. Even if the trim seems extremely well-attached after the glue has dried, it will eventually come off if you don’t nail it down.\\n2. Assembling a Cushioned Dance Floor\\n2-1. Get a shock absorbing subfloor.\\nIf you’re hoping to install a dance floor on a hard surface, such as concrete, the dance floor will need to be “sprung” or otherwise cushioned for comfort and safety. There are many ways to do so for professional floors. The easiest option for a home dance floor employs a layer of dense foam that is often referred to as “closed-cell” subflooring.\\nThere are lots of options even within closed-cell foam subflooring. The foam can be purchased in individual, connectable squares, or in a roll. Contact your local hardware store or look for dance floor subflooring online.\\n2-2. Try foam mats with a stiff middle layer of flooring.\\nSome flooring companies provide especially easy-to-install materials that are designed for use in cushioned dance floors. Look online for close-cell foam subflooring and clip-together athletic tiles that provides a middle layer between the foam and whatever dance surface you finish your dance floor with.\\nThe cost of both of these layers together comes up to about $5/sqft (roughly $15/sq meter).\\n2-3. Buy pre-built sprung floor panels.\\nYou can by panels of “sprung” flooring, such as that found in high-tier dance studios and performance halls, that can be attached together and covered with a dance flooring surface. They are easily assembled and can be taken apart and moved. This is an especially convenient route if you plan to build a commercial dance floor yourself.\\n2-4. Select a dance surface to top your subflooring.\\nSubflooring simply provides the cushioning necessary to absorb the impact from dancers, provide elasticity, and prevent injuries. However, you still need a layer of dance flooring to go on top of the subflooring. Depending on the type of subflooring you use, you may also need a stiff middle layer in between.\\nThere are plenty of different dance flooring materials to choose from, such as Marley flooring. Most will be a thin, durable material similar to that of a yoga mat.\\nThis top layer usually costs $2-4 per sqft (0.2-0.4 meters squared).\\nTips\\nInstall mirrors on the walls around the dance floor so dancers can check their form as they practice.\\nMake sure you have the equipment for dancing in the room and be careful when nailing the woods together so as to hurt yourself.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"While commercial dance floors are generally installed by professionals, you can easily build a dance floor for home use. Plywood is a great option for many home dance floors, but should be sealed to improve its durability. For use in a carpeted room, build a dance floor that can fold up for easy movement and storage. For a more permanent, cushioned floor, you'll need to use multiple layers of flooring, included some type of impact-absorbing subflooring.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Dance Floor for a Carpeted Room\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Plywood comes in several different types of wood and thicknesses. The type of wood does not matter too much. A ¾ in (2 cm) thickness is ideal, especially if you live in an apartment and there are folks who live beneath you. If noise is not an issue, ½ in (1.3 cm) thick plywood will work.\\nPlywood usually comes in 4x8 ft (1.2x2.4 m) boards. Two of these boards positioned side-by-side is usually ideal for a home dance floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get a polyurethane sealant.\", \"描述\": \"Sealing your dance floor will help make it much more resilient and help it last longer. You’ll apply sealant to the wood you’re using for the dance floor's surface before assembling the dance floor. Sealants are available at the hardware store or online.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set up a space to seal the boards outside.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest option is laying the boards down flat on a tarp. If you have a couple saw horses, you can also position the board on the saw horses with a tarp on the ground to catch any dripping sealant.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Follow the specific directions on the sealant.\", \"描述\": \"Most likely, you will be directed to sand the board, clean it with mineral spirits, apply a coat of the sealant with a brush, allow it to dry, and do it all again. Be sure to follow the directions of your sealant closely, as they will help ensure a good, smooth seal.\\nApply three or four coats and sand the surface before each coat.\\nOnce a coat has dried, walk around the board and look at from several angles. Pay extra attention to any patches that aren’t shiny when applying the next layer.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get two pieces of 4x8 ft (1.2x2.4 m) plywood.\", \"描述\": \"When assembled side by side, two sheets of plywood will make the perfect sized dance floor for home use in a carpeted room. If you want the dance floor to be lighter and a bit easier to move, have the hardware store cut each sheet down to 3.5x8 ft (1x2.4 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Determine which sides will be your dance surface.\", \"描述\": \"Before fastening the boards to one another, inspect each side of your plywood boards. Position the boards on the floor with the side that will be the dancing surface facing down. The sides of the boards facing up will be the bottom of your dance floor, which will allow you to attach a hinge and fasten the two boards together.\\nWhen positioned snugly side by side, the boards will make an 8x8 ft (2.4x2.4 m) dance floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the plywood sheets to one another with a hinge.\", \"描述\": \"Including a hinge on your dance floor will keep each half together and will make the floor easy to move and store. A five or six foot piano hinge is ideal, but you can also use multiple smaller hinges instead.\\nUse wood screws to fasten the hinges to the sheets of plywood. Make sure the screws are shorter than the thickness of the plywood.\\nPosition the hinges so that the boards rest snugly side by side when the hinges are open.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Consider adding rounded trim.\", \"描述\": \"Rounded trim on the edges of your dance floor will improve its appearance, reduce stubbed toes, and allow you to more comfortably step on the edge of the floor. When selecting pieces of trim, make sure individual pieces are slightly longer than the sides of the floor, and that they are the same thickness as the plywood you used.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Cut the trim to meet at the corners.\", \"描述\": \"In order for the pieces of trim to meet snugly at the corners of your dance floor, they need to be cut at 45-degree angles. Take care to account for this angle when measuring your piece. For instance, for a 8 ft (2.4 m) side of the dance floor, you’ll need a piece of trim that’s 8 ft (2.4 m) long not including the angled portion of the trim.\\nIf you’re using ½ in (1.3 cm) plywood and ½ in (1.3 cm) rounded trim, the outside edge of the trim (which will include the angled portion) will be 8 ft (2.4 m) and 1 in (2.5 cm) long.\\nNote that you’ll need to cut the trim in half on the sides that have the split to allow the dance floor to fold.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Glue the trim to the dance floor.\", \"描述\": \"Use wood glue to fasten the trim to the edges of the dance floor. Make sure you’re putting the halved pieces of trim on the right sides of the floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Nail the trim down.\", \"描述\": \"Once the glue has dried, hammer finishing nails into the trim about a foot apart. Make sure to position the nails to angle slightly downwards, so they don’t angle up and penetrate the surface of the dance floor.\\nDon’t skip the nailing step. Even if the trim seems extremely well-attached after the glue has dried, it will eventually come off if you don’t nail it down.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling a Cushioned Dance Floor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a shock absorbing subfloor.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re hoping to install a dance floor on a hard surface, such as concrete, the dance floor will need to be “sprung” or otherwise cushioned for comfort and safety. There are many ways to do so for professional floors. The easiest option for a home dance floor employs a layer of dense foam that is often referred to as “closed-cell” subflooring.\\nThere are lots of options even within closed-cell foam subflooring. The foam can be purchased in individual, connectable squares, or in a roll. Contact your local hardware store or look for dance floor subflooring online.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Try foam mats with a stiff middle layer of flooring.\", \"描述\": \"Some flooring companies provide especially easy-to-install materials that are designed for use in cushioned dance floors. Look online for close-cell foam subflooring and clip-together athletic tiles that provides a middle layer between the foam and whatever dance surface you finish your dance floor with.\\nThe cost of both of these layers together comes up to about $5/sqft (roughly $15/sq meter).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Buy pre-built sprung floor panels.\", \"描述\": \"You can by panels of “sprung” flooring, such as that found in high-tier dance studios and performance halls, that can be attached together and covered with a dance flooring surface. They are easily assembled and can be taken apart and moved. This is an especially convenient route if you plan to build a commercial dance floor yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select a dance surface to top your subflooring.\", \"描述\": \"Subflooring simply provides the cushioning necessary to absorb the impact from dancers, provide elasticity, and prevent injuries. However, you still need a layer of dance flooring to go on top of the subflooring. Depending on the type of subflooring you use, you may also need a stiff middle layer in between.\\nThere are plenty of different dance flooring materials to choose from, such as Marley flooring. Most will be a thin, durable material similar to that of a yoga mat.\\nThis top layer usually costs $2-4 per sqft (0.2-0.4 meters squared).\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Install mirrors on the walls around the dance floor so dancers can check their form as they practice.\\n\", \"Make sure you have the equipment for dancing in the room and be careful when nailing the woods together so as to hurt yourself.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,304 |
How to Build a Darkroom
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1. Setting Up Your Space
1-1. Find a room in your home that can be made totally dark.
A room with no windows is usually best, otherwise try to find a room with few small windows. A bathroom or basement room are usually best for this purpose. This room doesn’t have to be particularly big; a 25 square foot space is sufficient.
Make sure this room has an outlet for your equipment.
Running water can also be useful but isn’t required.
1-2. Ensure the room is well-ventilated.
If you situate your darkroom in a bathroom, you usually have a bathroom fan which can help keep the room ventilated. However, this is not ideal in the long run; chemicals are heavier than air, and most bathroom fans will struggle to completely clear the air. You’ll eventually want to invest in more powerful fans to preserve your health.
1-3. Have a table or countertop in your darkroom.
If space permits, this surface will make setting up your equipment and developing photos much easier. A desk with drawers will allow you to store some of your supplies, especially important if your darkroom has other purposes. Make sure your photo paper is stored in a drawer that doesn’t let light in.
1-4. Get your space completely dark.
If your future darkroom has windows, you’ll need more than curtains or blinds to make it completely dark. Take some black fabric, cut slightly larger than the windows, and tape it around the edges of the windows. Alternatively, you can use cardboard or thin plywood to block of windows, with fabric and tape around the edges to completely seal out light. If light leaks in around the door, affix a strip of fabric along its edge in the same manner.
You’ll have an easier time spotting encroaching light by turning off the room’s lights. As your eyes adjust to the dark, you’ll have an easier time spotting places where the light leaks in.
1-5. Split your darkroom in two halves; a "wet" side and a "dry" side.
You’ll want to establish this separation before you start setting up your equipment. This will protect your photos from costly mistakes, as well as make sure you don’t damage your equipment. The dry side will include your electronic equipment and should be close to the outlet. Having running water near the wet side of your darkroom will make the development process much simpler.
Make sure to check the water quality in your darkroom; errant particles can negatively impact the development process. Run the water over a tray for 15 minutes. If there are visible particles at the bottom of the tray, you’ll need a water filter.
2. Equipping Your Darkroom
2-1. Buy used supplies.
If you’re particularly knowledgeable, you can save quite a bit of money buying used. Check with friends or family in the hobby for hand me downs; knowing the previous owner means you’re more likely to get a good deal. You can also find used photo development gear on eBay and Craigslist. Make sure to check the condition of the equipment before buying.
If you live near a college, check campus bulletin boards near the end of semesters for ads from students looking to offload supplies.
2-2. Choose your enlarger carefully.
The enlarger is the centerpiece of the darkroom, as well as the most expensive piece of equipment you’ll need to acquire. If you’re new to the hobby, look for an entry level enlarger that’s easy to use and store. Beseler has a line of enlargers aimed at newbies, made for developing 35mm film. These models also come with lenses. Not all enlargers come with a lens, especially at higher price ranges.
2-3. Acquire your printing kit.
You’ll get the best deal picking and choosing each article, but this requires a minimum of knowledge. Several companies have complete darkroom kits available; these give you all the equipment you need without having to shop around. Keep in mind that some of these don’t include an enlarger, but will provide you with most of the equipment you’ll need.
2-4. Acquire and arrange your chemicals.
Developing photographs requires three specific chemical solutions. You’ll need developer, fixer and stop bath. The first two of these can be purchased from photography speciality store, while there are more options for your stop bath. You can either purchase acetic acid, pickling vinegar or a specialized premixed stop bath solution.
Make sure your trays and tongs are clearly marked, as putting chemicals in the wrong tray can contaminate your materials.
You’ll also need a water tray close at hand to rinse your developed pictures.
2-5. Get a safelight.
These lights provide just enough light to allow you to see your workspace, without compromising your photo paper or chemicals. These lights can get quite expensive, but many photography stores have safelight bulbs available for purchase.
2-6. Set up your equipment in the wet side of the darkroom.
This is where the chemical processes involved in photo development takes place. The equipment in this area will include:
Funnel
Trays
Tongs
Film clips (for drying processed film)
Graduated Cylinder
Chemicals (in their storage bottles)
2-7. Equip the dry side of your darkroom.
This side of the room will house your enlarger and photo paper. The rest of the equipment here will include:
Film tank and reels
Safelight
Easel
Timer
Grain magnifier
Optional: Paper cutter used to trim your photo paper.
2-8. Get the necessary safety equipment.
The chemicals used in the development process can be harmful for your skin, especially if you’re planning to spend several hours in your darkroom at a time. As such, make sure to wear latex gloves when handling chemicals. Additionally, a face mask will help protect your respiratory system from the fumes created when you develop your pictures.
Tips
The only chemical you should need to buy and replace regularly is developer. A simple solution of water and white vinegar can be used for stop bath, and fixer can be re-used and recycled. When fixer develops a build-up of silver and no longer looks clear, it is time to replace it.
Make sure there are no fluorescent lights in the darkroom as they give off radiation that will fog paper long after they have been turned off.
If you don't have running water into your bath (final rinse), you should be sure you replace the water often, and/or move your final prints to an area where you can rinse them under running water, such as a bathtub. Prints that have not been adequately rinsed will be sticky and might smudge.
Warnings
Color processing is more complicated than black and white. If you wish to try color photography, be sure your lighting, enlarger, and chemicals are safe and appropriate for color printing.
Certain jurisdictions don’t allow for the chemicals used in a darkroom to be dumped down the sink or flushed after use. Check with your local authorities.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:30",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting Up Your Space\\n1-1. Find a room in your home that can be made totally dark.\\nA room with no windows is usually best, otherwise try to find a room with few small windows. A bathroom or basement room are usually best for this purpose. This room doesn’t have to be particularly big; a 25 square foot space is sufficient.\\nMake sure this room has an outlet for your equipment.\\nRunning water can also be useful but isn’t required.\\n1-2. Ensure the room is well-ventilated.\\nIf you situate your darkroom in a bathroom, you usually have a bathroom fan which can help keep the room ventilated. However, this is not ideal in the long run; chemicals are heavier than air, and most bathroom fans will struggle to completely clear the air. You’ll eventually want to invest in more powerful fans to preserve your health.\\n1-3. Have a table or countertop in your darkroom.\\nIf space permits, this surface will make setting up your equipment and developing photos much easier. A desk with drawers will allow you to store some of your supplies, especially important if your darkroom has other purposes. Make sure your photo paper is stored in a drawer that doesn’t let light in.\\n1-4. Get your space completely dark.\\nIf your future darkroom has windows, you’ll need more than curtains or blinds to make it completely dark. Take some black fabric, cut slightly larger than the windows, and tape it around the edges of the windows. Alternatively, you can use cardboard or thin plywood to block of windows, with fabric and tape around the edges to completely seal out light. If light leaks in around the door, affix a strip of fabric along its edge in the same manner.\\nYou’ll have an easier time spotting encroaching light by turning off the room’s lights. As your eyes adjust to the dark, you’ll have an easier time spotting places where the light leaks in.\\n1-5. Split your darkroom in two halves; a \\\"wet\\\" side and a \\\"dry\\\" side.\\nYou’ll want to establish this separation before you start setting up your equipment. This will protect your photos from costly mistakes, as well as make sure you don’t damage your equipment. The dry side will include your electronic equipment and should be close to the outlet. Having running water near the wet side of your darkroom will make the development process much simpler.\\nMake sure to check the water quality in your darkroom; errant particles can negatively impact the development process. Run the water over a tray for 15 minutes. If there are visible particles at the bottom of the tray, you’ll need a water filter.\\n2. Equipping Your Darkroom\\n2-1. Buy used supplies.\\nIf you’re particularly knowledgeable, you can save quite a bit of money buying used. Check with friends or family in the hobby for hand me downs; knowing the previous owner means you’re more likely to get a good deal. You can also find used photo development gear on eBay and Craigslist. Make sure to check the condition of the equipment before buying.\\nIf you live near a college, check campus bulletin boards near the end of semesters for ads from students looking to offload supplies.\\n2-2. Choose your enlarger carefully.\\nThe enlarger is the centerpiece of the darkroom, as well as the most expensive piece of equipment you’ll need to acquire. If you’re new to the hobby, look for an entry level enlarger that’s easy to use and store. Beseler has a line of enlargers aimed at newbies, made for developing 35mm film. These models also come with lenses. Not all enlargers come with a lens, especially at higher price ranges.\\n2-3. Acquire your printing kit.\\nYou’ll get the best deal picking and choosing each article, but this requires a minimum of knowledge. Several companies have complete darkroom kits available; these give you all the equipment you need without having to shop around. Keep in mind that some of these don’t include an enlarger, but will provide you with most of the equipment you’ll need.\\n2-4. Acquire and arrange your chemicals.\\nDeveloping photographs requires three specific chemical solutions. You’ll need developer, fixer and stop bath. The first two of these can be purchased from photography speciality store, while there are more options for your stop bath. You can either purchase acetic acid, pickling vinegar or a specialized premixed stop bath solution.\\nMake sure your trays and tongs are clearly marked, as putting chemicals in the wrong tray can contaminate your materials.\\nYou’ll also need a water tray close at hand to rinse your developed pictures.\\n2-5. Get a safelight.\\nThese lights provide just enough light to allow you to see your workspace, without compromising your photo paper or chemicals. These lights can get quite expensive, but many photography stores have safelight bulbs available for purchase.\\n2-6. Set up your equipment in the wet side of the darkroom.\\nThis is where the chemical processes involved in photo development takes place. The equipment in this area will include:\\nFunnel\\nTrays\\nTongs\\nFilm clips (for drying processed film)\\nGraduated Cylinder\\nChemicals (in their storage bottles)\\n2-7. Equip the dry side of your darkroom.\\nThis side of the room will house your enlarger and photo paper. The rest of the equipment here will include:\\nFilm tank and reels\\nSafelight\\nEasel\\nTimer\\nGrain magnifier\\nOptional: Paper cutter used to trim your photo paper.\\n2-8. Get the necessary safety equipment.\\nThe chemicals used in the development process can be harmful for your skin, especially if you’re planning to spend several hours in your darkroom at a time. As such, make sure to wear latex gloves when handling chemicals. Additionally, a face mask will help protect your respiratory system from the fumes created when you develop your pictures.\\nTips\\nThe only chemical you should need to buy and replace regularly is developer. A simple solution of water and white vinegar can be used for stop bath, and fixer can be re-used and recycled. When fixer develops a build-up of silver and no longer looks clear, it is time to replace it.\\nMake sure there are no fluorescent lights in the darkroom as they give off radiation that will fog paper long after they have been turned off.\\nIf you don't have running water into your bath (final rinse), you should be sure you replace the water often, and/or move your final prints to an area where you can rinse them under running water, such as a bathtub. Prints that have not been adequately rinsed will be sticky and might smudge.\\nWarnings\\nColor processing is more complicated than black and white. If you wish to try color photography, be sure your lighting, enlarger, and chemicals are safe and appropriate for color printing.\\nCertain jurisdictions don’t allow for the chemicals used in a darkroom to be dumped down the sink or flushed after use. Check with your local authorities.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Even with the advent of modern technology, using an old school camera gives your photographs a unique look. In addition, printing your own photographs can be a rewarding experience and a fun hobby. The most important requirement for this hobby is your darkroom and setting up this workspace is crucial. This doesn’t have to be complicated or expensive. You just need to make sure you to find the right space and set up the necessary equipment.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting Up Your Space\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a room in your home that can be made totally dark.\", \"描述\": \"A room with no windows is usually best, otherwise try to find a room with few small windows. A bathroom or basement room are usually best for this purpose. This room doesn’t have to be particularly big; a 25 square foot space is sufficient.\\nMake sure this room has an outlet for your equipment.\\nRunning water can also be useful but isn’t required.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ensure the room is well-ventilated.\", \"描述\": \"If you situate your darkroom in a bathroom, you usually have a bathroom fan which can help keep the room ventilated. However, this is not ideal in the long run; chemicals are heavier than air, and most bathroom fans will struggle to completely clear the air. You’ll eventually want to invest in more powerful fans to preserve your health.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Have a table or countertop in your darkroom.\", \"描述\": \"If space permits, this surface will make setting up your equipment and developing photos much easier. A desk with drawers will allow you to store some of your supplies, especially important if your darkroom has other purposes. Make sure your photo paper is stored in a drawer that doesn’t let light in.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get your space completely dark.\", \"描述\": \"If your future darkroom has windows, you’ll need more than curtains or blinds to make it completely dark. Take some black fabric, cut slightly larger than the windows, and tape it around the edges of the windows. Alternatively, you can use cardboard or thin plywood to block of windows, with fabric and tape around the edges to completely seal out light. If light leaks in around the door, affix a strip of fabric along its edge in the same manner.\\nYou’ll have an easier time spotting encroaching light by turning off the room’s lights. As your eyes adjust to the dark, you’ll have an easier time spotting places where the light leaks in.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Split your darkroom in two halves; a \\\"wet\\\" side and a \\\"dry\\\" side.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll want to establish this separation before you start setting up your equipment. This will protect your photos from costly mistakes, as well as make sure you don’t damage your equipment. The dry side will include your electronic equipment and should be close to the outlet. Having running water near the wet side of your darkroom will make the development process much simpler.\\nMake sure to check the water quality in your darkroom; errant particles can negatively impact the development process. Run the water over a tray for 15 minutes. If there are visible particles at the bottom of the tray, you’ll need a water filter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Equipping Your Darkroom\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy used supplies.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re particularly knowledgeable, you can save quite a bit of money buying used. Check with friends or family in the hobby for hand me downs; knowing the previous owner means you’re more likely to get a good deal. You can also find used photo development gear on eBay and Craigslist. Make sure to check the condition of the equipment before buying.\\nIf you live near a college, check campus bulletin boards near the end of semesters for ads from students looking to offload supplies.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your enlarger carefully.\", \"描述\": \"The enlarger is the centerpiece of the darkroom, as well as the most expensive piece of equipment you’ll need to acquire. If you’re new to the hobby, look for an entry level enlarger that’s easy to use and store. Beseler has a line of enlargers aimed at newbies, made for developing 35mm film. These models also come with lenses. Not all enlargers come with a lens, especially at higher price ranges.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Acquire your printing kit.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll get the best deal picking and choosing each article, but this requires a minimum of knowledge. Several companies have complete darkroom kits available; these give you all the equipment you need without having to shop around. Keep in mind that some of these don’t include an enlarger, but will provide you with most of the equipment you’ll need.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Acquire and arrange your chemicals.\", \"描述\": \"Developing photographs requires three specific chemical solutions. You’ll need developer, fixer and stop bath. The first two of these can be purchased from photography speciality store, while there are more options for your stop bath. You can either purchase acetic acid, pickling vinegar or a specialized premixed stop bath solution.\\nMake sure your trays and tongs are clearly marked, as putting chemicals in the wrong tray can contaminate your materials.\\nYou’ll also need a water tray close at hand to rinse your developed pictures.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get a safelight.\", \"描述\": \"These lights provide just enough light to allow you to see your workspace, without compromising your photo paper or chemicals. These lights can get quite expensive, but many photography stores have safelight bulbs available for purchase.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Set up your equipment in the wet side of the darkroom.\", \"描述\": \"This is where the chemical processes involved in photo development takes place. The equipment in this area will include:\\nFunnel\\nTrays\\nTongs\\nFilm clips (for drying processed film)\\nGraduated Cylinder\\nChemicals (in their storage bottles)\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Equip the dry side of your darkroom.\", \"描述\": \"This side of the room will house your enlarger and photo paper. The rest of the equipment here will include:\\nFilm tank and reels\\nSafelight\\nEasel\\nTimer\\nGrain magnifier\\nOptional: Paper cutter used to trim your photo paper.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Get the necessary safety equipment.\", \"描述\": \"The chemicals used in the development process can be harmful for your skin, especially if you’re planning to spend several hours in your darkroom at a time. As such, make sure to wear latex gloves when handling chemicals. Additionally, a face mask will help protect your respiratory system from the fumes created when you develop your pictures.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The only chemical you should need to buy and replace regularly is developer. A simple solution of water and white vinegar can be used for stop bath, and fixer can be re-used and recycled. When fixer develops a build-up of silver and no longer looks clear, it is time to replace it.\\n\", \"Make sure there are no fluorescent lights in the darkroom as they give off radiation that will fog paper long after they have been turned off.\\n\", \"If you don't have running water into your bath (final rinse), you should be sure you replace the water often, and/or move your final prints to an area where you can rinse them under running water, such as a bathtub. Prints that have not been adequately rinsed will be sticky and might smudge.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Color processing is more complicated than black and white. If you wish to try color photography, be sure your lighting, enlarger, and chemicals are safe and appropriate for color printing.\\n\", \"Certain jurisdictions don’t allow for the chemicals used in a darkroom to be dumped down the sink or flushed after use. Check with your local authorities.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,305 |
How to Build a Deck
|
1. Planning Your Deck
1-1. Know your local building codes regarding decking.
The size of your home will have an impact on how large your deck can be, as well as its shape. In most cases, your deck will also be required to support a greater load than the floors in your home.
Your home owner's insurance policy may not cover an accident that occurs on your deck if you didn't build your decking to comply with the building codes in your area.
1-2. Obtain any necessary permits.
Check with your local government agency regarding the need for a permit before building your deck, as well as any inspections that will be required during construction.
1-3. Know the depth of the frost line in your area.
The frost line is the depth to which the ground freezes in winter, taken over an average of a number of years. Some building codes require that when you build a deck, the support posts be sunk to a depth below the frost line. Even if it isn't required, sinking the support posts to this depth will keep the deck from buckling when the ground expands and swells when the water in it freezes.
1-4. Decide on the size, style and placement of your deck.
Your deck can either be free-standing or attached to the house. Although some building codes may be more relaxed on free-standing decks, most people find it more convenient to have their decks attached to the house.
If you build your deck onto the house, you'll want to know where the rim joists and wall studs are located so you can secure the deck's ledger board, the support beam that attaches it to the house, to either of them.
The size of your deck will determine the number of footings and posts you'll need to support the joists and deck boards, as well as the size and spacing of the joists and the size of the deck boards. Joists can be spaced 12, 16 or 24 inches (30, 40 or 60 centimeters) apart, however a spacing of 24 inches is most common; common sizes for joists and deck boards are listed under "Things You'll Need."
The height at which you build your deck determines whether you need to include railings, posts and steps. You won't need them for a deck built just above the ground, but you will if it is higher than that.
Making a preliminary sketch of what you have in mind will help you in lining up materials and construction advice.
1-5. Choose the materials to make your deck from.
There are a number of hardwoods and composite materials from which you can build your deck. Materials for deck boards range from the tropical Hardwood Ipe and plastic to the more traditional redwood, cedar and pine. The framing, columns and posts, however, should be pressure-treated or otherwise decay-resistant wood as required by code.
2. Preparing the House
2-1. Mark the place where the top of the deck is to go.
Usually, this will be the height of the interior floor and just below the threshold of any planned or current door that will open onto the deck. Use a level to draw a line on the siding the whole length of the deck.
2-2. Mark the place where the bottom of the deck is to go.
From the line you just marked, measure down the thickness of the deck boards (usually 1 to 1 1/2 inches, or 2.5 to 3.75 centimeters), plus the height of the ledger board. (If the ledger board is a 2 x 10, this will be 9.5 inches, or 23.75 centimeters.) Mark this line across the entire length of where the ledger board will go.
2-3. Remove the siding from where the ledger board will be mounted.
If the siding is solid siding, you can cut it away with a circular saw and jigsaw, provided you don't cut into the sheathing beneath the siding. If the siding is vinyl siding, you'll need a special tool to pry up the siding; after removing it, you'll need to re-mark the lines for top of the deck and the bottom of the ledger board on the sheathing.
Ignore the steps in this section if you're planning to make a free-standing deck.
3. Building Your Deck
3-1. Measure and cut the ledger board.
Check its fit against the house before proceeding.
If you plan to cover your house's rim joists with the deck's skirting board, cut the ledger board shorter to accommodate the width of the skirting board (usually 3/4 inch, or 1.9 centimeters) on either side.
3-2. Mark off where the joists will go.
First, mark off the deck's rim joists on the left edge of the ledger board. (These are usually 2 joists laid side-by-side for strength.) Then, mark the centers of where each intervening joist will go and measure half the joist's thickness from each of these marks on either side. Then, mark off the rim joists on the right edge of the ledger board. Draw lines across the ledger board surface to mark all the joist edges.
3-3. Prepare the beam that will go opposite the ledger board.
Cut the beam the same length as the ledger board. If you plan to have the joists butt flush against this beam (a flush beam), then use a framing square to align the edges of both beams and then copy the marks in full. If you plan to have the joists rest on this beam instead (a dropped beam), you'll only need to have marks across the top for reference.
Most building codes require the opposite beam to be twice or three times as thick as the interior joists, so as with the rim joists, you'll have to cut multiple beams and sandwich them side-by-side. (If the deck is to be a free-standing deck, the ledger board beam would also have to be sandwiched with one or two other beams for strength.)
3-4. Nail the joist hangers.
Check the spacing of the joist hangers with a scrap of wood the width of the joists, then nail the joist hangers in place with short, thick nails designed to secure the joists. If your opposite beam is to be a flush beam, you'll also want to attach joist hangers to the innermost member of that beam.
3-5. Attach the ledger board to the house.
Tack the board in place temporarily with nails. Drill 1 or 2 holes between where every 2 joists will go. Apply silicone caulk to the inside of each hole, then sink a lag screw into each hole to secure the ledger board permanently. Cover the ledger board with a waterproof membrane or galvanized metal flashing.
Ignore this step if the deck is to be a free-standing deck.
3-6. Dig holes for the footings.
You can lay out the positions for the footings using string and stakes or batter boards to form a grid. Mark the footing positions on the strings, then transfer them to the ground. Dig 6 inches (15 centimeters) below the frost line for each footing with either a post-hole digger or power auger; make the bottom of each hole wider than the top.
You may need to have the holes inspected for depth before you can pour the concrete.
3-7. Assemble footing and pier forms.
Place one in each hole and support it with loose back-fill, then trim all the piers level to support the posts evenly. Pour concrete into the holes and let it set for at least 24 hours before proceeding.
3-8. Cut and raise the posts over the piers.
To anchor the posts in place, set 6-inch (15-centimeter) lengths of stainless steel rod or rebar halfway into the piers to serve as drift pins and drill holes in the post bottoms before placing them. You can also cover the pier tops with adhesive before setting the posts if the tops are wooden or use anchor brackets if the tops are concrete. Plumb the posts to be level and affix temporary braces to keep the posts from moving until the framing is in place.
3-9. Install the opposite beam atop the posts.
If your posts are tall, you may have to raise the individual members of the beam one by one instead of together. Set the beam members such that the outermost member is flush with the edge of the post. Attach the innermost member beam with toe nails or whatever connector your building codes require.
3-10. Install the rim joists.
Connect the rim joists to the ledger board and innermost member of a flush opposite beam with inside corner brackets. Adjust the beam member to get it square if it isn't, then affix the reinforcing outer beam members to the innermost member with nails, screws or lag bolts.
3-11. Install the interior joists.
Sight down each joist edge to look for any signs of bowing (crowning). Slip them into the joist hangers on the ledger board and opposite flush beam (or atop an opposite dropped beam), crowned side up. Tap them in place if necessary, and if they're too tight, trim a bit off the ends so they slip in without excessive force. If the opposite beam is a dropped beam, toenail the joists in place.
3-12. Lay down the deck boards.
Measure the deck frame from the outside edge of one rim joist to the outside edge of the other and add the width of any skirting or length of any overhang to it. Cut the first two deck boards to this length, then cut off the length of any overhang from the board that will be laid next to the house. (Subsequent boards need not be cut to this length, but can be laid down first and cut flush with the first two boards later.) Set the first board against the house sheathing and the next board against it if wet and the width of a 16-penny nail apart from it if dry. Attach the boards to the joists with two nails or screws. Straighten the boards as you go with a flat bar.
If you're building a wide deck, you can cut multiple deck boards to span the distance between the rim joists, with the places where two boards meet falling in the middle of a joist. Stagger these joints between each row of decking to make the deck look nicer.
Periodically measure the distance from the front of the deck to each end of the last board laid. They should be equal; if not, decrease the gaps between boards slightly on the longer side and increase them slightly on the shorter side until the distances are equal again.
If the last deck board is wider than the space to lay it, either narrow it or use a narrower board of the same type of decking material. If the board is narrower than the space available, take a wider board and narrow it as necessary.
3-13. Build stairs, if necessary.
If your deck is high enough to require stairs, determine the number of steps you'll need by dividing the deck height in feet by seven. If the quotient is a whole number, use the quotient as the number of steps, with a rise of 7 inches (17.5 centimeters). If the quotient includes a fraction, round to the nearest whole number to get the number of steps and divide that number into the deck height to get the rise in inches. Divide the rise into 75 to get the approximate length for each step.
You'll need to have a stringer at either end of the staircase to attach the steps to and another stringer in the center if you have a wide or tall staircase. Lay the first stringer out with a framing square to find the rise and run, then transfer the marks to the other stringers. Cut out the step supports, then brace the stringers together and nail them to the deck's rim joist before securing them permanently with lag screws.
Cut the steps to have a 3/4-inch (1.9-centimeter) overhang to either side of the stringer assembly to channel rain away from the stringers. Attach them to the stringers with screws or nails.
3-14. Build and install deck railings, if necessary.
If your deck is more than a step high, you'll want or need to have deck railings to prevent falls. Begin by installing the corner and stair posts, plumbing them and securing them first with glue, then with either lag screws or carriage bolts. The remaining pieces—top rails, bottom rails and spindles—may be attached individually or assembled into sections and then installed as units.
Measure the distance between posts to find the length of the rails and cut them to that length.
Vertical spindles usually need to be spaced to no more than 4 inches (10 centimeters) apart and should be placed closer together if it will create even spacing over the entire deck. They can be attached to the rails with nails or screws, while the rails themselves attach to the posts with angle screws. (Use wooden blocks to prop up the rail sections while screwing them in.)
Cut the stair posts to the correct height and angle with the help of a framing square, then install the bottom stair rails and hand rails. Figure the length of the stair rails by dividing the stair rise by the run, multiplying by the deck rail length, squaring the result, adding the square of the deck rail length and take the square root of the result. Cut the spindles to the right length, angled for the slope of the rail and install as described above for the deck spindles.
3-15. Attach skirting board, if desired.
Cut the boards to cover the deck's beam and rim joists and nail them in place.
Warnings
Before following the above instructions, check with your local building department for any special requirements not covered above that may supersede them.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:31",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Deck\\n1-1. Know your local building codes regarding decking.\\nThe size of your home will have an impact on how large your deck can be, as well as its shape. In most cases, your deck will also be required to support a greater load than the floors in your home.\\nYour home owner's insurance policy may not cover an accident that occurs on your deck if you didn't build your decking to comply with the building codes in your area.\\n1-2. Obtain any necessary permits.\\nCheck with your local government agency regarding the need for a permit before building your deck, as well as any inspections that will be required during construction.\\n1-3. Know the depth of the frost line in your area.\\nThe frost line is the depth to which the ground freezes in winter, taken over an average of a number of years. Some building codes require that when you build a deck, the support posts be sunk to a depth below the frost line. Even if it isn't required, sinking the support posts to this depth will keep the deck from buckling when the ground expands and swells when the water in it freezes.\\n1-4. Decide on the size, style and placement of your deck.\\nYour deck can either be free-standing or attached to the house. Although some building codes may be more relaxed on free-standing decks, most people find it more convenient to have their decks attached to the house.\\nIf you build your deck onto the house, you'll want to know where the rim joists and wall studs are located so you can secure the deck's ledger board, the support beam that attaches it to the house, to either of them.\\nThe size of your deck will determine the number of footings and posts you'll need to support the joists and deck boards, as well as the size and spacing of the joists and the size of the deck boards. Joists can be spaced 12, 16 or 24 inches (30, 40 or 60 centimeters) apart, however a spacing of 24 inches is most common; common sizes for joists and deck boards are listed under \\\"Things You'll Need.\\\"\\nThe height at which you build your deck determines whether you need to include railings, posts and steps. You won't need them for a deck built just above the ground, but you will if it is higher than that.\\nMaking a preliminary sketch of what you have in mind will help you in lining up materials and construction advice.\\n1-5. Choose the materials to make your deck from.\\nThere are a number of hardwoods and composite materials from which you can build your deck. Materials for deck boards range from the tropical Hardwood Ipe and plastic to the more traditional redwood, cedar and pine. The framing, columns and posts, however, should be pressure-treated or otherwise decay-resistant wood as required by code.\\n2. Preparing the House\\n2-1. Mark the place where the top of the deck is to go.\\nUsually, this will be the height of the interior floor and just below the threshold of any planned or current door that will open onto the deck. Use a level to draw a line on the siding the whole length of the deck.\\n2-2. Mark the place where the bottom of the deck is to go.\\nFrom the line you just marked, measure down the thickness of the deck boards (usually 1 to 1 1/2 inches, or 2.5 to 3.75 centimeters), plus the height of the ledger board. (If the ledger board is a 2 x 10, this will be 9.5 inches, or 23.75 centimeters.) Mark this line across the entire length of where the ledger board will go.\\n2-3. Remove the siding from where the ledger board will be mounted.\\nIf the siding is solid siding, you can cut it away with a circular saw and jigsaw, provided you don't cut into the sheathing beneath the siding. If the siding is vinyl siding, you'll need a special tool to pry up the siding; after removing it, you'll need to re-mark the lines for top of the deck and the bottom of the ledger board on the sheathing.\\nIgnore the steps in this section if you're planning to make a free-standing deck.\\n3. Building Your Deck\\n3-1. Measure and cut the ledger board.\\nCheck its fit against the house before proceeding.\\nIf you plan to cover your house's rim joists with the deck's skirting board, cut the ledger board shorter to accommodate the width of the skirting board (usually 3/4 inch, or 1.9 centimeters) on either side.\\n3-2. Mark off where the joists will go.\\nFirst, mark off the deck's rim joists on the left edge of the ledger board. (These are usually 2 joists laid side-by-side for strength.) Then, mark the centers of where each intervening joist will go and measure half the joist's thickness from each of these marks on either side. Then, mark off the rim joists on the right edge of the ledger board. Draw lines across the ledger board surface to mark all the joist edges.\\n3-3. Prepare the beam that will go opposite the ledger board.\\nCut the beam the same length as the ledger board. If you plan to have the joists butt flush against this beam (a flush beam), then use a framing square to align the edges of both beams and then copy the marks in full. If you plan to have the joists rest on this beam instead (a dropped beam), you'll only need to have marks across the top for reference.\\nMost building codes require the opposite beam to be twice or three times as thick as the interior joists, so as with the rim joists, you'll have to cut multiple beams and sandwich them side-by-side. (If the deck is to be a free-standing deck, the ledger board beam would also have to be sandwiched with one or two other beams for strength.)\\n3-4. Nail the joist hangers.\\nCheck the spacing of the joist hangers with a scrap of wood the width of the joists, then nail the joist hangers in place with short, thick nails designed to secure the joists. If your opposite beam is to be a flush beam, you'll also want to attach joist hangers to the innermost member of that beam.\\n3-5. Attach the ledger board to the house.\\nTack the board in place temporarily with nails. Drill 1 or 2 holes between where every 2 joists will go. Apply silicone caulk to the inside of each hole, then sink a lag screw into each hole to secure the ledger board permanently. Cover the ledger board with a waterproof membrane or galvanized metal flashing.\\nIgnore this step if the deck is to be a free-standing deck.\\n3-6. Dig holes for the footings.\\nYou can lay out the positions for the footings using string and stakes or batter boards to form a grid. Mark the footing positions on the strings, then transfer them to the ground. Dig 6 inches (15 centimeters) below the frost line for each footing with either a post-hole digger or power auger; make the bottom of each hole wider than the top.\\nYou may need to have the holes inspected for depth before you can pour the concrete.\\n3-7. Assemble footing and pier forms.\\nPlace one in each hole and support it with loose back-fill, then trim all the piers level to support the posts evenly. Pour concrete into the holes and let it set for at least 24 hours before proceeding.\\n3-8. Cut and raise the posts over the piers.\\nTo anchor the posts in place, set 6-inch (15-centimeter) lengths of stainless steel rod or rebar halfway into the piers to serve as drift pins and drill holes in the post bottoms before placing them. You can also cover the pier tops with adhesive before setting the posts if the tops are wooden or use anchor brackets if the tops are concrete. Plumb the posts to be level and affix temporary braces to keep the posts from moving until the framing is in place.\\n3-9. Install the opposite beam atop the posts.\\nIf your posts are tall, you may have to raise the individual members of the beam one by one instead of together. Set the beam members such that the outermost member is flush with the edge of the post. Attach the innermost member beam with toe nails or whatever connector your building codes require.\\n3-10. Install the rim joists.\\nConnect the rim joists to the ledger board and innermost member of a flush opposite beam with inside corner brackets. Adjust the beam member to get it square if it isn't, then affix the reinforcing outer beam members to the innermost member with nails, screws or lag bolts.\\n3-11. Install the interior joists.\\nSight down each joist edge to look for any signs of bowing (crowning). Slip them into the joist hangers on the ledger board and opposite flush beam (or atop an opposite dropped beam), crowned side up. Tap them in place if necessary, and if they're too tight, trim a bit off the ends so they slip in without excessive force. If the opposite beam is a dropped beam, toenail the joists in place.\\n3-12. Lay down the deck boards.\\nMeasure the deck frame from the outside edge of one rim joist to the outside edge of the other and add the width of any skirting or length of any overhang to it. Cut the first two deck boards to this length, then cut off the length of any overhang from the board that will be laid next to the house. (Subsequent boards need not be cut to this length, but can be laid down first and cut flush with the first two boards later.) Set the first board against the house sheathing and the next board against it if wet and the width of a 16-penny nail apart from it if dry. Attach the boards to the joists with two nails or screws. Straighten the boards as you go with a flat bar.\\nIf you're building a wide deck, you can cut multiple deck boards to span the distance between the rim joists, with the places where two boards meet falling in the middle of a joist. Stagger these joints between each row of decking to make the deck look nicer.\\nPeriodically measure the distance from the front of the deck to each end of the last board laid. They should be equal; if not, decrease the gaps between boards slightly on the longer side and increase them slightly on the shorter side until the distances are equal again.\\nIf the last deck board is wider than the space to lay it, either narrow it or use a narrower board of the same type of decking material. If the board is narrower than the space available, take a wider board and narrow it as necessary.\\n3-13. Build stairs, if necessary.\\nIf your deck is high enough to require stairs, determine the number of steps you'll need by dividing the deck height in feet by seven. If the quotient is a whole number, use the quotient as the number of steps, with a rise of 7 inches (17.5 centimeters). If the quotient includes a fraction, round to the nearest whole number to get the number of steps and divide that number into the deck height to get the rise in inches. Divide the rise into 75 to get the approximate length for each step.\\nYou'll need to have a stringer at either end of the staircase to attach the steps to and another stringer in the center if you have a wide or tall staircase. Lay the first stringer out with a framing square to find the rise and run, then transfer the marks to the other stringers. Cut out the step supports, then brace the stringers together and nail them to the deck's rim joist before securing them permanently with lag screws.\\nCut the steps to have a 3/4-inch (1.9-centimeter) overhang to either side of the stringer assembly to channel rain away from the stringers. Attach them to the stringers with screws or nails.\\n3-14. Build and install deck railings, if necessary.\\nIf your deck is more than a step high, you'll want or need to have deck railings to prevent falls. Begin by installing the corner and stair posts, plumbing them and securing them first with glue, then with either lag screws or carriage bolts. The remaining pieces—top rails, bottom rails and spindles—may be attached individually or assembled into sections and then installed as units.\\nMeasure the distance between posts to find the length of the rails and cut them to that length.\\nVertical spindles usually need to be spaced to no more than 4 inches (10 centimeters) apart and should be placed closer together if it will create even spacing over the entire deck. They can be attached to the rails with nails or screws, while the rails themselves attach to the posts with angle screws. (Use wooden blocks to prop up the rail sections while screwing them in.)\\nCut the stair posts to the correct height and angle with the help of a framing square, then install the bottom stair rails and hand rails. Figure the length of the stair rails by dividing the stair rise by the run, multiplying by the deck rail length, squaring the result, adding the square of the deck rail length and take the square root of the result. Cut the spindles to the right length, angled for the slope of the rail and install as described above for the deck spindles.\\n3-15. Attach skirting board, if desired.\\nCut the boards to cover the deck's beam and rim joists and nail them in place.\\nWarnings\\nBefore following the above instructions, check with your local building department for any special requirements not covered above that may supersede them.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a deck can add to the monetary value of your home as well as to your enjoyment of it, whether you host parties or sample the beauty of nature from it. Building your deck requires work and planning, but a properly planned and built deck can be an asset you can enjoy for years. Here are the steps to take when planning and building your deck.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Deck\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know your local building codes regarding decking.\", \"描述\": \"The size of your home will have an impact on how large your deck can be, as well as its shape. In most cases, your deck will also be required to support a greater load than the floors in your home.\\nYour home owner's insurance policy may not cover an accident that occurs on your deck if you didn't build your decking to comply with the building codes in your area.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Obtain any necessary permits.\", \"描述\": \"Check with your local government agency regarding the need for a permit before building your deck, as well as any inspections that will be required during construction.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Know the depth of the frost line in your area.\", \"描述\": \"The frost line is the depth to which the ground freezes in winter, taken over an average of a number of years. Some building codes require that when you build a deck, the support posts be sunk to a depth below the frost line. Even if it isn't required, sinking the support posts to this depth will keep the deck from buckling when the ground expands and swells when the water in it freezes.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decide on the size, style and placement of your deck.\", \"描述\": \"Your deck can either be free-standing or attached to the house. Although some building codes may be more relaxed on free-standing decks, most people find it more convenient to have their decks attached to the house.\\nIf you build your deck onto the house, you'll want to know where the rim joists and wall studs are located so you can secure the deck's ledger board, the support beam that attaches it to the house, to either of them.\\nThe size of your deck will determine the number of footings and posts you'll need to support the joists and deck boards, as well as the size and spacing of the joists and the size of the deck boards. Joists can be spaced 12, 16 or 24 inches (30, 40 or 60 centimeters) apart, however a spacing of 24 inches is most common; common sizes for joists and deck boards are listed under \\\"Things You'll Need.\\\"\\nThe height at which you build your deck determines whether you need to include railings, posts and steps. You won't need them for a deck built just above the ground, but you will if it is higher than that.\\nMaking a preliminary sketch of what you have in mind will help you in lining up materials and construction advice.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose the materials to make your deck from.\", \"描述\": \"There are a number of hardwoods and composite materials from which you can build your deck. Materials for deck boards range from the tropical Hardwood Ipe and plastic to the more traditional redwood, cedar and pine. The framing, columns and posts, however, should be pressure-treated or otherwise decay-resistant wood as required by code.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Preparing the House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark the place where the top of the deck is to go.\", \"描述\": \"Usually, this will be the height of the interior floor and just below the threshold of any planned or current door that will open onto the deck. Use a level to draw a line on the siding the whole length of the deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark the place where the bottom of the deck is to go.\", \"描述\": \"From the line you just marked, measure down the thickness of the deck boards (usually 1 to 1 1/2 inches, or 2.5 to 3.75 centimeters), plus the height of the ledger board. (If the ledger board is a 2 x 10, this will be 9.5 inches, or 23.75 centimeters.) Mark this line across the entire length of where the ledger board will go.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the siding from where the ledger board will be mounted.\", \"描述\": \"If the siding is solid siding, you can cut it away with a circular saw and jigsaw, provided you don't cut into the sheathing beneath the siding. If the siding is vinyl siding, you'll need a special tool to pry up the siding; after removing it, you'll need to re-mark the lines for top of the deck and the bottom of the ledger board on the sheathing.\\nIgnore the steps in this section if you're planning to make a free-standing deck.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building Your Deck\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut the ledger board.\", \"描述\": \"Check its fit against the house before proceeding.\\nIf you plan to cover your house's rim joists with the deck's skirting board, cut the ledger board shorter to accommodate the width of the skirting board (usually 3/4 inch, or 1.9 centimeters) on either side.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark off where the joists will go.\", \"描述\": \"First, mark off the deck's rim joists on the left edge of the ledger board. (These are usually 2 joists laid side-by-side for strength.) Then, mark the centers of where each intervening joist will go and measure half the joist's thickness from each of these marks on either side. Then, mark off the rim joists on the right edge of the ledger board. Draw lines across the ledger board surface to mark all the joist edges.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare the beam that will go opposite the ledger board.\", \"描述\": \"Cut the beam the same length as the ledger board. If you plan to have the joists butt flush against this beam (a flush beam), then use a framing square to align the edges of both beams and then copy the marks in full. If you plan to have the joists rest on this beam instead (a dropped beam), you'll only need to have marks across the top for reference.\\nMost building codes require the opposite beam to be twice or three times as thick as the interior joists, so as with the rim joists, you'll have to cut multiple beams and sandwich them side-by-side. (If the deck is to be a free-standing deck, the ledger board beam would also have to be sandwiched with one or two other beams for strength.)\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Nail the joist hangers.\", \"描述\": \"Check the spacing of the joist hangers with a scrap of wood the width of the joists, then nail the joist hangers in place with short, thick nails designed to secure the joists. If your opposite beam is to be a flush beam, you'll also want to attach joist hangers to the innermost member of that beam.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the ledger board to the house.\", \"描述\": \"Tack the board in place temporarily with nails. Drill 1 or 2 holes between where every 2 joists will go. Apply silicone caulk to the inside of each hole, then sink a lag screw into each hole to secure the ledger board permanently. Cover the ledger board with a waterproof membrane or galvanized metal flashing.\\nIgnore this step if the deck is to be a free-standing deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Dig holes for the footings.\", \"描述\": \"You can lay out the positions for the footings using string and stakes or batter boards to form a grid. Mark the footing positions on the strings, then transfer them to the ground. Dig 6 inches (15 centimeters) below the frost line for each footing with either a post-hole digger or power auger; make the bottom of each hole wider than the top.\\nYou may need to have the holes inspected for depth before you can pour the concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Assemble footing and pier forms.\", \"描述\": \"Place one in each hole and support it with loose back-fill, then trim all the piers level to support the posts evenly. Pour concrete into the holes and let it set for at least 24 hours before proceeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut and raise the posts over the piers.\", \"描述\": \"To anchor the posts in place, set 6-inch (15-centimeter) lengths of stainless steel rod or rebar halfway into the piers to serve as drift pins and drill holes in the post bottoms before placing them. You can also cover the pier tops with adhesive before setting the posts if the tops are wooden or use anchor brackets if the tops are concrete. Plumb the posts to be level and affix temporary braces to keep the posts from moving until the framing is in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Install the opposite beam atop the posts.\", \"描述\": \"If your posts are tall, you may have to raise the individual members of the beam one by one instead of together. Set the beam members such that the outermost member is flush with the edge of the post. Attach the innermost member beam with toe nails or whatever connector your building codes require.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Install the rim joists.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the rim joists to the ledger board and innermost member of a flush opposite beam with inside corner brackets. Adjust the beam member to get it square if it isn't, then affix the reinforcing outer beam members to the innermost member with nails, screws or lag bolts.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Install the interior joists.\", \"描述\": \"Sight down each joist edge to look for any signs of bowing (crowning). Slip them into the joist hangers on the ledger board and opposite flush beam (or atop an opposite dropped beam), crowned side up. Tap them in place if necessary, and if they're too tight, trim a bit off the ends so they slip in without excessive force. If the opposite beam is a dropped beam, toenail the joists in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Lay down the deck boards.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the deck frame from the outside edge of one rim joist to the outside edge of the other and add the width of any skirting or length of any overhang to it. Cut the first two deck boards to this length, then cut off the length of any overhang from the board that will be laid next to the house. (Subsequent boards need not be cut to this length, but can be laid down first and cut flush with the first two boards later.) Set the first board against the house sheathing and the next board against it if wet and the width of a 16-penny nail apart from it if dry. Attach the boards to the joists with two nails or screws. Straighten the boards as you go with a flat bar.\\nIf you're building a wide deck, you can cut multiple deck boards to span the distance between the rim joists, with the places where two boards meet falling in the middle of a joist. Stagger these joints between each row of decking to make the deck look nicer.\\nPeriodically measure the distance from the front of the deck to each end of the last board laid. They should be equal; if not, decrease the gaps between boards slightly on the longer side and increase them slightly on the shorter side until the distances are equal again.\\nIf the last deck board is wider than the space to lay it, either narrow it or use a narrower board of the same type of decking material. If the board is narrower than the space available, take a wider board and narrow it as necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Build stairs, if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"If your deck is high enough to require stairs, determine the number of steps you'll need by dividing the deck height in feet by seven. If the quotient is a whole number, use the quotient as the number of steps, with a rise of 7 inches (17.5 centimeters). If the quotient includes a fraction, round to the nearest whole number to get the number of steps and divide that number into the deck height to get the rise in inches. Divide the rise into 75 to get the approximate length for each step.\\nYou'll need to have a stringer at either end of the staircase to attach the steps to and another stringer in the center if you have a wide or tall staircase. Lay the first stringer out with a framing square to find the rise and run, then transfer the marks to the other stringers. Cut out the step supports, then brace the stringers together and nail them to the deck's rim joist before securing them permanently with lag screws.\\nCut the steps to have a 3/4-inch (1.9-centimeter) overhang to either side of the stringer assembly to channel rain away from the stringers. Attach them to the stringers with screws or nails.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Build and install deck railings, if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"If your deck is more than a step high, you'll want or need to have deck railings to prevent falls. Begin by installing the corner and stair posts, plumbing them and securing them first with glue, then with either lag screws or carriage bolts. The remaining pieces—top rails, bottom rails and spindles—may be attached individually or assembled into sections and then installed as units.\\nMeasure the distance between posts to find the length of the rails and cut them to that length.\\nVertical spindles usually need to be spaced to no more than 4 inches (10 centimeters) apart and should be placed closer together if it will create even spacing over the entire deck. They can be attached to the rails with nails or screws, while the rails themselves attach to the posts with angle screws. (Use wooden blocks to prop up the rail sections while screwing them in.)\\nCut the stair posts to the correct height and angle with the help of a framing square, then install the bottom stair rails and hand rails. Figure the length of the stair rails by dividing the stair rise by the run, multiplying by the deck rail length, squaring the result, adding the square of the deck rail length and take the square root of the result. Cut the spindles to the right length, angled for the slope of the rail and install as described above for the deck spindles.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Attach skirting board, if desired.\", \"描述\": \"Cut the boards to cover the deck's beam and rim joists and nail them in place.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Before following the above instructions, check with your local building department for any special requirements not covered above that may supersede them.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,306 |
How to Build a Deck Around an Above Ground Pool
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1. Laying Out the Deck
1-1. Measure your pool.
Make sure you have an accurate record of the diameter and the height of the pool. You will need this to determine the dimensions for the deck.
1-2. Decide on the dimensions of your deck.
Plan plenty of width between the edges of the pool and the perimeter of the deck so that swimmers can walk comfortably.
1-3. Obtain any necessary permits.
Take your rough plan to your local building department or ask a building inspector to come to your home.
The inspector will give you advice on regulations for stairs, handrails, guards and other elements that may be subject to municipal codes.
Draw up your final plans based on the inspector's recommendations and requirements, and get all necessary permits before you begin building—especially electrical permits, if that will be part of your new deck.
1-4. Choose what type of decking you want to use.
Pressure-treated wood is generally fine but you may also prefer a composite material.
1-5. Lay out the deck around the pool using stakes driven into the ground.
Pull a string line from the corners to establish the outside perimeter of the deck. For our example, we'll assume a 21-foot pool.
Mark the location of an interior post about 1' (30 cm) from the edge of the pool. Locate the next post 4 feet (1.2 m) away from that point. The perimeter edge of your deck shouldn't be more than 4 feet (1.2 m) away from a post.
To find out how many interior posts you will need, add the distance from pool to post, multiply that by 2 and add it to the diameter of the pool, then multiply the total by pi (3.14159). That will give you the circumference. Now divide that number by 4 to get the number of posts you will need. In this case, the post is 1 foot (0.3 m) from the pool, and the pool is 21 feet (6.4 m) in diameter: (1x2 + 21) * π ÷ 4 = (23 * π) ÷ 4 = 18.06. You will need 18 posts for the inner ring.
2. Installing the Posts and Piers
2-1. Install the precast concrete pier footings on the top of the ground.
To support your deck, purchase precast concrete piers with sockets that accept 4" x 4" treated wood posts. Most places in the U.S. allow this type of construction, but verify with a local inspector that this is acceptable. Set them up as follows:
Place the piers at the exact locations you marked for your posts.
Check two sides of the pier with a level. Keep adjusting the ground until the footing is level in both directions.
2-2. Set a 4" x 4" post into the opening in the top of the concrete piers.
Lay a 4-foot level across the top of the pool cap and use the level to mark a line on each of the 4" x 4" posts.
2-3. Remove the posts from the piers.
Below the line that you just drew, measure and draw another line. The distance between the 2 lines should equal the sum of the width of the pool cap plus 1-1/2inches for the 2" x 6" decking, 5-1/2 inches for the 2" x 6" floor frame, and an additional 1/2 inch for expansion.
Cut the posts to the length given by the second line that you marked.
Place the posts back inside the piers.
3. Install the Deck Framing
3-1. Install 2" x 6" treated deck supports around the perimeter of the pool.
The deck supports should be screwed into the side of each interior pier that faces the pool.
Screw the supports to the interior piers using 2-1/2 inch deck screws.
Use a level to make sure that the supports are level. Also, use a square at the corners to make sure that the supports are square.
3-2. Install another set of 2" x 6" deck supports to mark the outside perimeter of the deck.
Screw the supports to the outer side of the exterior piers using 2-1/2 inch deck screws.
Confirm the supports are level and square, and make adjustments as needed.
3-3. Toenail joist hangers vertically to the interior of the supports using 3-1/2 inch 16d galvanized nails.
Hang one joist hanger every 16 inches on the insides of both deck supports so that the joists will be perpendicular to the supports. The midpoint of each joist hanger should be 16 inches on center. This means the middle of the 2" x 6" joist board is on the 16 inch mark.
3-4. Place 2" x 6" treated wood deck floor joists into the joist hangers.
Toenail the hangers to the joists using 10d galvanized nails.
3-5. Install 2" x 4" diagonal braces between the piers if the deck is more than 30 inches high.
The braces should run between the piers from interior to exterior as well as parallel to the sides of the pool.
4. Lay the Decking
Install 2" x 6" decking from the outside support of the pool.
The decking should rest about 1/2 inch away from the edge of the pool to allow for expansion.
Adjust the edges of the board that rest near the pool wall with a jigsaw as needed.
Use spacers between decking boards to allow for drainage and expansion. 1/4" or 3/8" spacers are common, but you can use 1/2" spacers if more expansion is expected.
Look at the place where the decking meets the exterior edge of the perimeter supports. Use a circular saw to trim any spots where the decking juts out over the supports.
5. Install the Guard Rail
5-1. Install 4" x 4" precut railing posts around the perimeter of the deck.
The precut posts should have a notch at the base that fits against the edge of the deck, and they may have a decorative top.
Use 3/8-inch x 4-1/2 inch lag screws to secure the posts to the supports.
The posts should be installed at every point where a joist meets the supports.
Make sure to leave an opening for your stairs.
5-2. Slip 2" x 6" boards between the posts.
The top of the 2" x 6"'s should be flush with the base of the decorative element. Pre-drill a pilot hole at the desired angle, then attach the boards with 2-1/2 inch deck screws.
You may attach 2" x 6" joist hangers first to make the boards easier to install.
5-3. Cut a 2" x 4" to the length of the board that you just installed between posts.
Lay the wide side of the 2" x 4" against the 2" x 6" and screw it to the 2" x 6" using deck screws. The 2" x 4" acts as a cap for the railing.
5-4. Install 2" x 2" balusters with a 45-degree beveled base to enclose the guardrail.
Use a level to plumb each baluster.
The balusters should hang parallel to the posts and should be positioned at 4 inch intervals. The beveled in should be at the bottom facing outward.
Screw the baluster into the 2" x 6" railing at the top and into the floor joist at the bottom.
6. Build the Stairs
6-1. Set the bottom edges of 2 precut left and right stair stringers on top of concrete patio blocks.
The blocks will keep the stringers from wicking up moisture from the ground.
6-2. Check the stringers to ensure that they are level.
6-3. Screw the upper ends of the stringers to the floor joists on your deck.
6-4. Add interior stringers to support your stair treads.
You will need 1 stringer for every 2 feet (0.6 m) of stair treads. Unless your stairs are more than 4 feet (1.2 m) wide, you will only need the 2 exterior stringers and 1 middle stringer.
6-5. Screw 2" x 12" boards to the stringers to finish the stairs.
6-6. Build a gate
If young children have access to the pool area, build a gate to prevent them falling in. Install a lock if children will be playing unsupervised near the pool.
Tips
You can always buy pre-made deck plans or even kits if you don't want to build your deck from scratch.
Always seal your deck with exterior stain and sealer to protect it from the elements.
Warnings
Young children can easily fall into an unsecured pool. Install a gate at the top of the deck stairs if there are children in your neighborhood.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:31",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Laying Out the Deck\\n1-1. Measure your pool.\\nMake sure you have an accurate record of the diameter and the height of the pool. You will need this to determine the dimensions for the deck.\\n1-2. Decide on the dimensions of your deck.\\nPlan plenty of width between the edges of the pool and the perimeter of the deck so that swimmers can walk comfortably.\\n1-3. Obtain any necessary permits.\\nTake your rough plan to your local building department or ask a building inspector to come to your home.\\nThe inspector will give you advice on regulations for stairs, handrails, guards and other elements that may be subject to municipal codes.\\nDraw up your final plans based on the inspector's recommendations and requirements, and get all necessary permits before you begin building—especially electrical permits, if that will be part of your new deck.\\n1-4. Choose what type of decking you want to use.\\nPressure-treated wood is generally fine but you may also prefer a composite material.\\n1-5. Lay out the deck around the pool using stakes driven into the ground.\\nPull a string line from the corners to establish the outside perimeter of the deck. For our example, we'll assume a 21-foot pool.\\nMark the location of an interior post about 1' (30 cm) from the edge of the pool. Locate the next post 4 feet (1.2 m) away from that point. The perimeter edge of your deck shouldn't be more than 4 feet (1.2 m) away from a post.\\nTo find out how many interior posts you will need, add the distance from pool to post, multiply that by 2 and add it to the diameter of the pool, then multiply the total by pi (3.14159). That will give you the circumference. Now divide that number by 4 to get the number of posts you will need. In this case, the post is 1 foot (0.3 m) from the pool, and the pool is 21 feet (6.4 m) in diameter: (1x2 + 21) * π ÷ 4 = (23 * π) ÷ 4 = 18.06. You will need 18 posts for the inner ring.\\n2. Installing the Posts and Piers\\n2-1. Install the precast concrete pier footings on the top of the ground.\\nTo support your deck, purchase precast concrete piers with sockets that accept 4\\\" x 4\\\" treated wood posts. Most places in the U.S. allow this type of construction, but verify with a local inspector that this is acceptable. Set them up as follows:\\nPlace the piers at the exact locations you marked for your posts.\\nCheck two sides of the pier with a level. Keep adjusting the ground until the footing is level in both directions.\\n2-2. Set a 4\\\" x 4\\\" post into the opening in the top of the concrete piers.\\nLay a 4-foot level across the top of the pool cap and use the level to mark a line on each of the 4\\\" x 4\\\" posts.\\n2-3. Remove the posts from the piers.\\nBelow the line that you just drew, measure and draw another line. The distance between the 2 lines should equal the sum of the width of the pool cap plus 1-1/2inches for the 2\\\" x 6\\\" decking, 5-1/2 inches for the 2\\\" x 6\\\" floor frame, and an additional 1/2 inch for expansion.\\nCut the posts to the length given by the second line that you marked.\\nPlace the posts back inside the piers.\\n3. Install the Deck Framing\\n3-1. Install 2\\\" x 6\\\" treated deck supports around the perimeter of the pool.\\nThe deck supports should be screwed into the side of each interior pier that faces the pool.\\nScrew the supports to the interior piers using 2-1/2 inch deck screws.\\nUse a level to make sure that the supports are level. Also, use a square at the corners to make sure that the supports are square.\\n3-2. Install another set of 2\\\" x 6\\\" deck supports to mark the outside perimeter of the deck.\\nScrew the supports to the outer side of the exterior piers using 2-1/2 inch deck screws.\\nConfirm the supports are level and square, and make adjustments as needed.\\n3-3. Toenail joist hangers vertically to the interior of the supports using 3-1/2 inch 16d galvanized nails.\\nHang one joist hanger every 16 inches on the insides of both deck supports so that the joists will be perpendicular to the supports. The midpoint of each joist hanger should be 16 inches on center. This means the middle of the 2\\\" x 6\\\" joist board is on the 16 inch mark.\\n3-4. Place 2\\\" x 6\\\" treated wood deck floor joists into the joist hangers.\\nToenail the hangers to the joists using 10d galvanized nails.\\n3-5. Install 2\\\" x 4\\\" diagonal braces between the piers if the deck is more than 30 inches high.\\nThe braces should run between the piers from interior to exterior as well as parallel to the sides of the pool.\\n4. Lay the Decking\\nInstall 2\\\" x 6\\\" decking from the outside support of the pool.\\nThe decking should rest about 1/2 inch away from the edge of the pool to allow for expansion.\\nAdjust the edges of the board that rest near the pool wall with a jigsaw as needed.\\nUse spacers between decking boards to allow for drainage and expansion. 1/4\\\" or 3/8\\\" spacers are common, but you can use 1/2\\\" spacers if more expansion is expected.\\nLook at the place where the decking meets the exterior edge of the perimeter supports. Use a circular saw to trim any spots where the decking juts out over the supports.\\n5. Install the Guard Rail\\n5-1. Install 4\\\" x 4\\\" precut railing posts around the perimeter of the deck.\\nThe precut posts should have a notch at the base that fits against the edge of the deck, and they may have a decorative top.\\nUse 3/8-inch x 4-1/2 inch lag screws to secure the posts to the supports.\\nThe posts should be installed at every point where a joist meets the supports.\\nMake sure to leave an opening for your stairs.\\n5-2. Slip 2\\\" x 6\\\" boards between the posts.\\nThe top of the 2\\\" x 6\\\"'s should be flush with the base of the decorative element. Pre-drill a pilot hole at the desired angle, then attach the boards with 2-1/2 inch deck screws.\\nYou may attach 2\\\" x 6\\\" joist hangers first to make the boards easier to install.\\n5-3. Cut a 2\\\" x 4\\\" to the length of the board that you just installed between posts.\\nLay the wide side of the 2\\\" x 4\\\" against the 2\\\" x 6\\\" and screw it to the 2\\\" x 6\\\" using deck screws. The 2\\\" x 4\\\" acts as a cap for the railing.\\n5-4. Install 2\\\" x 2\\\" balusters with a 45-degree beveled base to enclose the guardrail.\\nUse a level to plumb each baluster.\\nThe balusters should hang parallel to the posts and should be positioned at 4 inch intervals. The beveled in should be at the bottom facing outward.\\nScrew the baluster into the 2\\\" x 6\\\" railing at the top and into the floor joist at the bottom.\\n6. Build the Stairs\\n6-1. Set the bottom edges of 2 precut left and right stair stringers on top of concrete patio blocks.\\nThe blocks will keep the stringers from wicking up moisture from the ground.\\n6-2. Check the stringers to ensure that they are level.\\n\\n6-3. Screw the upper ends of the stringers to the floor joists on your deck.\\n\\n6-4. Add interior stringers to support your stair treads.\\nYou will need 1 stringer for every 2 feet (0.6 m) of stair treads. Unless your stairs are more than 4 feet (1.2 m) wide, you will only need the 2 exterior stringers and 1 middle stringer.\\n6-5. Screw 2\\\" x 12\\\" boards to the stringers to finish the stairs.\\n\\n6-6. Build a gate\\nIf young children have access to the pool area, build a gate to prevent them falling in. Install a lock if children will be playing unsupervised near the pool.\\nTips\\nYou can always buy pre-made deck plans or even kits if you don't want to build your deck from scratch.\\nAlways seal your deck with exterior stain and sealer to protect it from the elements.\\nWarnings\\nYoung children can easily fall into an unsecured pool. Install a gate at the top of the deck stairs if there are children in your neighborhood.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Who says you can't put a round peg in a square hole? When you build a deck around an above-ground pool, you instantly increase the value, attractiveness and functionality of your recreational investment. This article will guide you through the steps of building a rectangular deck around a round pool. You'll be dining at your poolside or sunbathing in no time after you build your gorgeous new deck.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Laying Out the Deck\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your pool.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you have an accurate record of the diameter and the height of the pool. You will need this to determine the dimensions for the deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide on the dimensions of your deck.\", \"描述\": \"Plan plenty of width between the edges of the pool and the perimeter of the deck so that swimmers can walk comfortably.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Obtain any necessary permits.\", \"描述\": \"Take your rough plan to your local building department or ask a building inspector to come to your home.\\nThe inspector will give you advice on regulations for stairs, handrails, guards and other elements that may be subject to municipal codes.\\nDraw up your final plans based on the inspector's recommendations and requirements, and get all necessary permits before you begin building—especially electrical permits, if that will be part of your new deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose what type of decking you want to use.\", \"描述\": \"Pressure-treated wood is generally fine but you may also prefer a composite material.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lay out the deck around the pool using stakes driven into the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Pull a string line from the corners to establish the outside perimeter of the deck. For our example, we'll assume a 21-foot pool.\\nMark the location of an interior post about 1' (30 cm) from the edge of the pool. Locate the next post 4 feet (1.2 m) away from that point. The perimeter edge of your deck shouldn't be more than 4 feet (1.2 m) away from a post.\\nTo find out how many interior posts you will need, add the distance from pool to post, multiply that by 2 and add it to the diameter of the pool, then multiply the total by pi (3.14159). That will give you the circumference. Now divide that number by 4 to get the number of posts you will need. In this case, the post is 1 foot (0.3 m) from the pool, and the pool is 21 feet (6.4 m) in diameter: (1x2 + 21) * π ÷ 4 = (23 * π) ÷ 4 = 18.06. You will need 18 posts for the inner ring.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Installing the Posts and Piers\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install the precast concrete pier footings on the top of the ground.\", \"描述\": \"To support your deck, purchase precast concrete piers with sockets that accept 4\\\" x 4\\\" treated wood posts. Most places in the U.S. allow this type of construction, but verify with a local inspector that this is acceptable. Set them up as follows:\\nPlace the piers at the exact locations you marked for your posts.\\nCheck two sides of the pier with a level. Keep adjusting the ground until the footing is level in both directions.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set a 4\\\" x 4\\\" post into the opening in the top of the concrete piers.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a 4-foot level across the top of the pool cap and use the level to mark a line on each of the 4\\\" x 4\\\" posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the posts from the piers.\", \"描述\": \"Below the line that you just drew, measure and draw another line. The distance between the 2 lines should equal the sum of the width of the pool cap plus 1-1/2inches for the 2\\\" x 6\\\" decking, 5-1/2 inches for the 2\\\" x 6\\\" floor frame, and an additional 1/2 inch for expansion.\\nCut the posts to the length given by the second line that you marked.\\nPlace the posts back inside the piers.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the Deck Framing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install 2\\\" x 6\\\" treated deck supports around the perimeter of the pool.\", \"描述\": \"The deck supports should be screwed into the side of each interior pier that faces the pool.\\nScrew the supports to the interior piers using 2-1/2 inch deck screws.\\nUse a level to make sure that the supports are level. Also, use a square at the corners to make sure that the supports are square.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install another set of 2\\\" x 6\\\" deck supports to mark the outside perimeter of the deck.\", \"描述\": \"Screw the supports to the outer side of the exterior piers using 2-1/2 inch deck screws.\\nConfirm the supports are level and square, and make adjustments as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Toenail joist hangers vertically to the interior of the supports using 3-1/2 inch 16d galvanized nails.\", \"描述\": \"Hang one joist hanger every 16 inches on the insides of both deck supports so that the joists will be perpendicular to the supports. The midpoint of each joist hanger should be 16 inches on center. This means the middle of the 2\\\" x 6\\\" joist board is on the 16 inch mark.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place 2\\\" x 6\\\" treated wood deck floor joists into the joist hangers.\", \"描述\": \"Toenail the hangers to the joists using 10d galvanized nails.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install 2\\\" x 4\\\" diagonal braces between the piers if the deck is more than 30 inches high.\", \"描述\": \"The braces should run between the piers from interior to exterior as well as parallel to the sides of the pool.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay the Decking\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install 2\\\" x 6\\\" decking from the outside support of the pool.\", \"描述\": \"The decking should rest about 1/2 inch away from the edge of the pool to allow for expansion.\\nAdjust the edges of the board that rest near the pool wall with a jigsaw as needed.\\nUse spacers between decking boards to allow for drainage and expansion. 1/4\\\" or 3/8\\\" spacers are common, but you can use 1/2\\\" spacers if more expansion is expected.\\nLook at the place where the decking meets the exterior edge of the perimeter supports. Use a circular saw to trim any spots where the decking juts out over the supports.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install the Guard Rail\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install 4\\\" x 4\\\" precut railing posts around the perimeter of the deck.\", \"描述\": \"The precut posts should have a notch at the base that fits against the edge of the deck, and they may have a decorative top.\\nUse 3/8-inch x 4-1/2 inch lag screws to secure the posts to the supports.\\nThe posts should be installed at every point where a joist meets the supports.\\nMake sure to leave an opening for your stairs.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Slip 2\\\" x 6\\\" boards between the posts.\", \"描述\": \"The top of the 2\\\" x 6\\\"'s should be flush with the base of the decorative element. Pre-drill a pilot hole at the desired angle, then attach the boards with 2-1/2 inch deck screws.\\nYou may attach 2\\\" x 6\\\" joist hangers first to make the boards easier to install.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut a 2\\\" x 4\\\" to the length of the board that you just installed between posts.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the wide side of the 2\\\" x 4\\\" against the 2\\\" x 6\\\" and screw it to the 2\\\" x 6\\\" using deck screws. The 2\\\" x 4\\\" acts as a cap for the railing.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install 2\\\" x 2\\\" balusters with a 45-degree beveled base to enclose the guardrail.\", \"描述\": \"Use a level to plumb each baluster.\\nThe balusters should hang parallel to the posts and should be positioned at 4 inch intervals. The beveled in should be at the bottom facing outward.\\nScrew the baluster into the 2\\\" x 6\\\" railing at the top and into the floor joist at the bottom.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build the Stairs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set the bottom edges of 2 precut left and right stair stringers on top of concrete patio blocks.\", \"描述\": \"The blocks will keep the stringers from wicking up moisture from the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Check the stringers to ensure that they are level.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw the upper ends of the stringers to the floor joists on your deck.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add interior stringers to support your stair treads.\", \"描述\": \"You will need 1 stringer for every 2 feet (0.6 m) of stair treads. Unless your stairs are more than 4 feet (1.2 m) wide, you will only need the 2 exterior stringers and 1 middle stringer.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw 2\\\" x 12\\\" boards to the stringers to finish the stairs.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build a gate\", \"描述\": \"If young children have access to the pool area, build a gate to prevent them falling in. Install a lock if children will be playing unsupervised near the pool.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can always buy pre-made deck plans or even kits if you don't want to build your deck from scratch.\\n\", \"Always seal your deck with exterior stain and sealer to protect it from the elements.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Young children can easily fall into an unsecured pool. Install a gate at the top of the deck stairs if there are children in your neighborhood.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,307 |
How to Build a Deck Cover
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1. Setting the Corner Posts and Cross-Beams
1-1. Measure the length and width of the deck you want to cover.
Measure the length using a tape measure and write it down. Measure the width of the deck next and write it down as well.
You don’t have to measure the length and width of the deck if you don’t want to cover the entire thing. For example, if you just want to build a square pergola in the middle of a larger deck, you can make it 10 ft (3.0 m) by 10 ft (3.0 m).
1-2. Measure the height of the roof of the home if you want to attach the cover to it.
Use a tape measure to measure from the floor of the deck to the edge of the roof. Write down the measurement.
If you want to build a free-standing deck cover, then you don’t need to measure the height of the roof. Make any free-standing structure at least 7 ft (2.1 m) tall so there is plenty of clearance under it.
1-3. Screw 6 in × 6 in (15 cm × 15 cm) post mounts into each corner of the deck.
Use 3 in (7.6 cm) decking screws to secure the post mounts to the deck. Make sure to screw them into the joists underneath the decking and not only into the decking material.
Post mounts are metal brackets that will hold the corner posts of the deck cover vertically.
If you plan to attach the deck cover to the side of the home, then you only need 2 post mounts in the outer corners of the deck.
If you are making a cover over a concrete patio rather than a deck cover, you will have to bolt the post mounts into the concrete instead of screwing them in place.
1-4. Cut your 6 in × 6 in (15 cm × 15 cm) posts to the height you need them to be.
Cut them to the height of the roof or 7 ft (2.1 m) tall if you are making a free-standing deck cover. Use a circular saw to cut the corner posts to the right length.
You can get the posts pre-cut at a lumber yard or home improvement center to save time.
You only need 2 corner posts if you are going to attach the deck cover to the side of the home. They will go in the outer corners of the deck.
1-5. Cut a 2 in × 8 in (5.1 cm × 20.3 cm) notch for the cross-beams at the top of the posts.
Measure from the top of each corner post down 8 in (20 cm) on 1 side and draw a line. You will cut out a 2 in (5.1 cm) deep and 8 in (20 cm) long section from this line to the top of the post on just 1 side of the post. Set the depth on your circular saw to 2 in (5.1 cm) and make about 20 cuts right next to each other, starting at the line and going towards the top of the post, then chisel out the skinny pieces.
You could also use a reciprocating saw to cut out the notch in 1 piece by making a 2 in (5.1 cm) cut at the line you marked first, then cutting in from the top of the post.
1-6. Set the corner posts in the post mounts and screw them into place.
Orient the posts so that the notches for the cross-beams face inwards towards the center of the deck, or towards the home if you are connecting the cover to the side of it. Get a helper to hold each post in place while you put the screws in. Screw 3 in (7.6 cm) decking screws into the corner posts through the holes in the post mounts using an electric drill.
The number of screws you need depends on how many holes the post mounts have.
You will have 4 corner posts if you are making a free-standing patio cover, and only 2 if you are attaching one side of the cover to your home.
1-7. Screw your cross-beams into the notches you cut at the top of the corner posts.
Set the cross-beams into the notches and have a couple helpers hold each beam in place while you stand on a step ladder and screw them to the posts. Screw 4 3 in (7.6 cm) decking screws through each end of the cross-beams into the top of the corner posts using an electric drill.
You only need 1 cross-beam if you’re going to attach the deck cover to the side of the home. If you are using 4 corner posts then you need 2 cross-beams.
You need to use weather-resistant wood for the posts and cross-beams. Use pressure-treated pine for an affordable option or use cedar if you want a naturally weather-resistant and more beautiful option.
2. Installing the Rafters
2-1. Nail 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) joist hangers every 16 in (41 cm).
Joist hangers are metal brackets that will support the rafters of your deck cover. Nail them into place along the inside of the cross-beams using a hammer and 1–1.5 in (2.5–3.8 cm) joist hanger nails.
Screw a 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) piece of lumber along the whole length of the side of the home if you’re going to attach the patio cover there. You can then nail the joist hangers into place along the board. Never nail joist hangers directly into the side of your home.
2-2. Cut your 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) rafters to the right length.
Measure from 1 joist hanger to another to double-check how long the rafters need to be. Cut the rafters to the length you need using a circular saw.
Divide the total length of the cross-beam by 16 in (41 cm) to determine how many rafters you need in total.
You can get the rafters cut for you at a lumber yard or home improvement center to save time.
2-3. Set your rafters into the joist hangers and nail them into place.
Lay out all your rafters in the notches of the joist hangers. Hammer 1.5 in (3.8 cm) joist hanger nails into each rafter through the holes in the joist hangers to secure them in place.
The number of nails you need depends on how many nail holes the joist hangers have.
The frame of your deck cover is now complete and you can go ahead and cover it with any type of roofing you want.
3. Adding Roofing
3-1. Cover the rafters with OSB and shingles if you want it to match the home’s roof.
Nail OSB sheets into the rafters using a nail gun. Install shingles that match the ones that the home has, such as asphalt shingles, to make the deck cover appear as an extension of the home.
OSB is a type of engineered wood made of compressed layers of wood strands, kind of similar to particle board.
This is a good option if you attached the deck cover to the side of the home.
3-2. Cover the rafters with corrugated plastic for a translucent protective roof.
Lay out overlapping sheets of corrugated plastic roofing over the rafters. Pre-drill holes every 16 in (41 cm) through the sheets where they will lie on top of the rafters and nail them into place with aluminum screw nails.
This is a good option if you want protection from the rain and weather over your deck, but still want some light to shine through.
3-3. Nail a wooden trellis to the rafters if you want to let vines grow over the cover.
Lay out pieces of wooden trellis over the rafters so that the structure is completely covered. Nail them into place with carpentry nails and a hammer or using a nail gun. Put nails every 16 in (41 cm) or so along each rafter.
This is a nice option if you just want to add some shade to your deck but keep it more open to the air. You can then put planters with vines next to the corner posts and let them grow up the posts and onto the trellis to add some nature to the deck.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:31",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting the Corner Posts and Cross-Beams\\n1-1. Measure the length and width of the deck you want to cover.\\nMeasure the length using a tape measure and write it down. Measure the width of the deck next and write it down as well.\\nYou don’t have to measure the length and width of the deck if you don’t want to cover the entire thing. For example, if you just want to build a square pergola in the middle of a larger deck, you can make it 10 ft (3.0 m) by 10 ft (3.0 m).\\n1-2. Measure the height of the roof of the home if you want to attach the cover to it.\\nUse a tape measure to measure from the floor of the deck to the edge of the roof. Write down the measurement.\\nIf you want to build a free-standing deck cover, then you don’t need to measure the height of the roof. Make any free-standing structure at least 7 ft (2.1 m) tall so there is plenty of clearance under it.\\n1-3. Screw 6 in × 6 in (15 cm × 15 cm) post mounts into each corner of the deck.\\nUse 3 in (7.6 cm) decking screws to secure the post mounts to the deck. Make sure to screw them into the joists underneath the decking and not only into the decking material.\\nPost mounts are metal brackets that will hold the corner posts of the deck cover vertically.\\nIf you plan to attach the deck cover to the side of the home, then you only need 2 post mounts in the outer corners of the deck.\\nIf you are making a cover over a concrete patio rather than a deck cover, you will have to bolt the post mounts into the concrete instead of screwing them in place.\\n1-4. Cut your 6 in × 6 in (15 cm × 15 cm) posts to the height you need them to be.\\nCut them to the height of the roof or 7 ft (2.1 m) tall if you are making a free-standing deck cover. Use a circular saw to cut the corner posts to the right length.\\nYou can get the posts pre-cut at a lumber yard or home improvement center to save time.\\nYou only need 2 corner posts if you are going to attach the deck cover to the side of the home. They will go in the outer corners of the deck.\\n1-5. Cut a 2 in × 8 in (5.1 cm × 20.3 cm) notch for the cross-beams at the top of the posts.\\nMeasure from the top of each corner post down 8 in (20 cm) on 1 side and draw a line. You will cut out a 2 in (5.1 cm) deep and 8 in (20 cm) long section from this line to the top of the post on just 1 side of the post. Set the depth on your circular saw to 2 in (5.1 cm) and make about 20 cuts right next to each other, starting at the line and going towards the top of the post, then chisel out the skinny pieces.\\nYou could also use a reciprocating saw to cut out the notch in 1 piece by making a 2 in (5.1 cm) cut at the line you marked first, then cutting in from the top of the post.\\n1-6. Set the corner posts in the post mounts and screw them into place.\\nOrient the posts so that the notches for the cross-beams face inwards towards the center of the deck, or towards the home if you are connecting the cover to the side of it. Get a helper to hold each post in place while you put the screws in. Screw 3 in (7.6 cm) decking screws into the corner posts through the holes in the post mounts using an electric drill.\\nThe number of screws you need depends on how many holes the post mounts have.\\nYou will have 4 corner posts if you are making a free-standing patio cover, and only 2 if you are attaching one side of the cover to your home.\\n1-7. Screw your cross-beams into the notches you cut at the top of the corner posts.\\nSet the cross-beams into the notches and have a couple helpers hold each beam in place while you stand on a step ladder and screw them to the posts. Screw 4 3 in (7.6 cm) decking screws through each end of the cross-beams into the top of the corner posts using an electric drill.\\nYou only need 1 cross-beam if you’re going to attach the deck cover to the side of the home. If you are using 4 corner posts then you need 2 cross-beams.\\nYou need to use weather-resistant wood for the posts and cross-beams. Use pressure-treated pine for an affordable option or use cedar if you want a naturally weather-resistant and more beautiful option.\\n2. Installing the Rafters\\n2-1. Nail 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) joist hangers every 16 in (41 cm).\\nJoist hangers are metal brackets that will support the rafters of your deck cover. Nail them into place along the inside of the cross-beams using a hammer and 1–1.5 in (2.5–3.8 cm) joist hanger nails.\\nScrew a 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) piece of lumber along the whole length of the side of the home if you’re going to attach the patio cover there. You can then nail the joist hangers into place along the board. Never nail joist hangers directly into the side of your home.\\n2-2. Cut your 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) rafters to the right length.\\nMeasure from 1 joist hanger to another to double-check how long the rafters need to be. Cut the rafters to the length you need using a circular saw.\\nDivide the total length of the cross-beam by 16 in (41 cm) to determine how many rafters you need in total.\\nYou can get the rafters cut for you at a lumber yard or home improvement center to save time.\\n2-3. Set your rafters into the joist hangers and nail them into place.\\nLay out all your rafters in the notches of the joist hangers. Hammer 1.5 in (3.8 cm) joist hanger nails into each rafter through the holes in the joist hangers to secure them in place.\\nThe number of nails you need depends on how many nail holes the joist hangers have.\\nThe frame of your deck cover is now complete and you can go ahead and cover it with any type of roofing you want.\\n3. Adding Roofing\\n3-1. Cover the rafters with OSB and shingles if you want it to match the home’s roof.\\nNail OSB sheets into the rafters using a nail gun. Install shingles that match the ones that the home has, such as asphalt shingles, to make the deck cover appear as an extension of the home.\\nOSB is a type of engineered wood made of compressed layers of wood strands, kind of similar to particle board.\\nThis is a good option if you attached the deck cover to the side of the home.\\n3-2. Cover the rafters with corrugated plastic for a translucent protective roof.\\nLay out overlapping sheets of corrugated plastic roofing over the rafters. Pre-drill holes every 16 in (41 cm) through the sheets where they will lie on top of the rafters and nail them into place with aluminum screw nails.\\nThis is a good option if you want protection from the rain and weather over your deck, but still want some light to shine through.\\n3-3. Nail a wooden trellis to the rafters if you want to let vines grow over the cover.\\nLay out pieces of wooden trellis over the rafters so that the structure is completely covered. Nail them into place with carpentry nails and a hammer or using a nail gun. Put nails every 16 in (41 cm) or so along each rafter.\\nThis is a nice option if you just want to add some shade to your deck but keep it more open to the air. You can then put planters with vines next to the corner posts and let them grow up the posts and onto the trellis to add some nature to the deck.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a deck cover adds shade and shelter to any home’s deck to make it a more useful outdoor space. With the right tools and some basic carpentry skills, you can add a cover to your deck by installing some corner posts and cross-beams. After that, you just need to attach some rafters and then cover them to achieve the look you want. Make the final product look like part of the home by adding actual roofing, or turn it into something more simple and natural, such as a vine-covered pergola.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting the Corner Posts and Cross-Beams\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the length and width of the deck you want to cover.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the length using a tape measure and write it down. Measure the width of the deck next and write it down as well.\\nYou don’t have to measure the length and width of the deck if you don’t want to cover the entire thing. For example, if you just want to build a square pergola in the middle of a larger deck, you can make it 10 ft (3.0 m) by 10 ft (3.0 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure the height of the roof of the home if you want to attach the cover to it.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tape measure to measure from the floor of the deck to the edge of the roof. Write down the measurement.\\nIf you want to build a free-standing deck cover, then you don’t need to measure the height of the roof. Make any free-standing structure at least 7 ft (2.1 m) tall so there is plenty of clearance under it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw 6 in × 6 in (15 cm × 15 cm) post mounts into each corner of the deck.\", \"描述\": \"Use 3 in (7.6 cm) decking screws to secure the post mounts to the deck. Make sure to screw them into the joists underneath the decking and not only into the decking material.\\nPost mounts are metal brackets that will hold the corner posts of the deck cover vertically.\\nIf you plan to attach the deck cover to the side of the home, then you only need 2 post mounts in the outer corners of the deck.\\nIf you are making a cover over a concrete patio rather than a deck cover, you will have to bolt the post mounts into the concrete instead of screwing them in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut your 6 in × 6 in (15 cm × 15 cm) posts to the height you need them to be.\", \"描述\": \"Cut them to the height of the roof or 7 ft (2.1 m) tall if you are making a free-standing deck cover. Use a circular saw to cut the corner posts to the right length.\\nYou can get the posts pre-cut at a lumber yard or home improvement center to save time.\\nYou only need 2 corner posts if you are going to attach the deck cover to the side of the home. They will go in the outer corners of the deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut a 2 in × 8 in (5.1 cm × 20.3 cm) notch for the cross-beams at the top of the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Measure from the top of each corner post down 8 in (20 cm) on 1 side and draw a line. You will cut out a 2 in (5.1 cm) deep and 8 in (20 cm) long section from this line to the top of the post on just 1 side of the post. Set the depth on your circular saw to 2 in (5.1 cm) and make about 20 cuts right next to each other, starting at the line and going towards the top of the post, then chisel out the skinny pieces.\\nYou could also use a reciprocating saw to cut out the notch in 1 piece by making a 2 in (5.1 cm) cut at the line you marked first, then cutting in from the top of the post.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Set the corner posts in the post mounts and screw them into place.\", \"描述\": \"Orient the posts so that the notches for the cross-beams face inwards towards the center of the deck, or towards the home if you are connecting the cover to the side of it. Get a helper to hold each post in place while you put the screws in. Screw 3 in (7.6 cm) decking screws into the corner posts through the holes in the post mounts using an electric drill.\\nThe number of screws you need depends on how many holes the post mounts have.\\nYou will have 4 corner posts if you are making a free-standing patio cover, and only 2 if you are attaching one side of the cover to your home.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Screw your cross-beams into the notches you cut at the top of the corner posts.\", \"描述\": \"Set the cross-beams into the notches and have a couple helpers hold each beam in place while you stand on a step ladder and screw them to the posts. Screw 4 3 in (7.6 cm) decking screws through each end of the cross-beams into the top of the corner posts using an electric drill.\\nYou only need 1 cross-beam if you’re going to attach the deck cover to the side of the home. If you are using 4 corner posts then you need 2 cross-beams.\\nYou need to use weather-resistant wood for the posts and cross-beams. Use pressure-treated pine for an affordable option or use cedar if you want a naturally weather-resistant and more beautiful option.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Installing the Rafters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Nail 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) joist hangers every 16 in (41 cm).\", \"描述\": \"Joist hangers are metal brackets that will support the rafters of your deck cover. Nail them into place along the inside of the cross-beams using a hammer and 1–1.5 in (2.5–3.8 cm) joist hanger nails.\\nScrew a 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) piece of lumber along the whole length of the side of the home if you’re going to attach the patio cover there. You can then nail the joist hangers into place along the board. Never nail joist hangers directly into the side of your home.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) rafters to the right length.\", \"描述\": \"Measure from 1 joist hanger to another to double-check how long the rafters need to be. Cut the rafters to the length you need using a circular saw.\\nDivide the total length of the cross-beam by 16 in (41 cm) to determine how many rafters you need in total.\\nYou can get the rafters cut for you at a lumber yard or home improvement center to save time.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set your rafters into the joist hangers and nail them into place.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out all your rafters in the notches of the joist hangers. Hammer 1.5 in (3.8 cm) joist hanger nails into each rafter through the holes in the joist hangers to secure them in place.\\nThe number of nails you need depends on how many nail holes the joist hangers have.\\nThe frame of your deck cover is now complete and you can go ahead and cover it with any type of roofing you want.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding Roofing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cover the rafters with OSB and shingles if you want it to match the home’s roof.\", \"描述\": \"Nail OSB sheets into the rafters using a nail gun. Install shingles that match the ones that the home has, such as asphalt shingles, to make the deck cover appear as an extension of the home.\\nOSB is a type of engineered wood made of compressed layers of wood strands, kind of similar to particle board.\\nThis is a good option if you attached the deck cover to the side of the home.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cover the rafters with corrugated plastic for a translucent protective roof.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out overlapping sheets of corrugated plastic roofing over the rafters. Pre-drill holes every 16 in (41 cm) through the sheets where they will lie on top of the rafters and nail them into place with aluminum screw nails.\\nThis is a good option if you want protection from the rain and weather over your deck, but still want some light to shine through.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Nail a wooden trellis to the rafters if you want to let vines grow over the cover.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out pieces of wooden trellis over the rafters so that the structure is completely covered. Nail them into place with carpentry nails and a hammer or using a nail gun. Put nails every 16 in (41 cm) or so along each rafter.\\nThis is a nice option if you just want to add some shade to your deck but keep it more open to the air. You can then put planters with vines next to the corner posts and let them grow up the posts and onto the trellis to add some nature to the deck.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,308 |
How to Build a Deck Railing
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1. Installing Posts
1-1. Count how many posts you will need.
Your deck might already be supported by posts, especially if it is covered. If not, you’ll need to install these so that there will be something to support the railings. According to handyman Walter Brant, "A railing made with pressure-treated wood can span about 8 ft (2.4 m) between posts, while a PVC railing can only have 6 ft (1.8 m) of space between posts. PVC isn't as strong as wood; plus the PVC railings you want may only come in 6 ft (1.8 m) lengths."
1-2. Measure out the posts.
Cut 4x4s to be at least a little higher than the railing will be, plus extra length to hang below the deck planks. For instance, if you want a railing that is 36 inches (91 cm) high, cut posts that are perhaps 44 inches (110 cm) high.
Most building codes require deck railings to be between 36 inches (91 cm) and 42 inches (110 cm) high.
The posts' extra height above the railing is just for looks. An inch or two higher than the railing will look nice.
You'll need enough length hanging below the surface of the deck to attach the posts securely to the supports. For instance, if your deck is made of boards that are 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick and the supports are 6 inches (15 cm) high, then you'll want your posts to be long enough to hang up to 7 inches (18 cm) but at least 4 inches (10 cm) below the railing
Many people like to leave about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) or so between the bottom railing and the deck boards as well, so factor this into the post height as well.
1-3. Cut the posts to have an overhang.
Mark a line that goes several inches up the side of the bottom of each post. For instance, if you want your 4x4 posts to hang 4 inches (10 cm) over the edge of your deck, draw a line that far up the side, 2 inches (5.1 cm) from one side of the post (the midpoint of the post). Draw another line perpendicular to the first line's end. Use a saw and cut along the lines you drew to remove a section of the post that is 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm).
1-4. Apply finish to the posts.
If you plan on finishing your deck rail, go ahead and apply the finish to the posts before installing. Brush the paint or stain on all sides of the posts and let them dry (about 24 hours).
1-5. Mount the posts.
Handyman Walter Brant suggests "holding a post in the position where it will be mounted and using a large level to hold it in a vertical position." Next, use a drill to form pilot holes through the overhang of the posts into the deck joists. Then, drill lag screws or carriage bolts into the pilot holes. If you will be using lag screws, Brant advises "using two ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-diameter galvanized screws with washers, which are rust-proof. Drill ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) holes through the post, followed by ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) pilot holes into the board behind the post."
If you will use lag bolts, use two ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-diameter galvanized lag bolts with waters and nuts. Washers are used only on the ends of the bolts with the nuts. Drill ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) holes through the post and the board behind it.
If the posts will be higher than the railing (the railings will not be nailed to the tops of the posts), nail a metal or wooden post cap onto the top of the railing. This prevents water from entering at the top.
2. Measuring and Cutting the Wood
2-1. Mark the railing height on the posts.
Using a tape measure, make a pencil mark in the center of each post. This will probably be between between 36 inches (91 cm) and 42 inches (110 cm), according to your preference and building codes. Many homeowners like to leave a couple of inches open below the bottom of the railing. To compensate for this, set the railing height mark slightly higher than the height of the railing itself.
For instance, if you want a railing that is about 36 inches (91 cm) high, make marks on the posts at 40 inches (100 cm). That will leave enough room for the balusters, the top and bottom of the rail, and a couple inches open at the bottom.
2-2. Measure the distance between the posts.
If you didn’t install the posts yourself, you’ll need to know the exact distance between them so that you can cut the railing pieces to size. You’ll need a helper for this.
Ask your helper to hold one end of the tape measure in place against the center of a post.
Stretch the tape measure tightly across to the center of the next post and make a mark.
Record the distance between the posts.
Check the distance where you want the top and bottom rails to sit. If your posts are straight, the distance should be the same. If they're not, change the length of the rails to match the actual distance.
2-3. Get balusters and wood for the handrail.
Take a trip down to the lumber supply store. You’ll need to get several pieces pre-cut or cut them to size yourself. You can also ask the supply store to cut it to size for you. Handyman Walter Brant suggests "using a miter saw if you plan on cutting the rails and handrails yourself."
Cut 1x3 or 2x4 lumber into lengths equal to the distance between your deck posts. You’ll need two pieces for each length of railing (one for the bottom and another for the top).
Get plenty of 2x2 balusters to use for the railing. You’ll want to space these no more than 4 inches (10 cm) apart.
The length of the balusters should be approximately the height you want the railing to be. If they’re too long, cut them down.
You’ll also need thin strips of wood. Get something that is about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) by 1.5 inches (3.8 cm). Cut it into lengths equal to the distance between the deck posts. You’ll need one strip per section.
2-4. Finish all of the wooden pieces.
If you want to apply a finish to your deck, such as a coat of polyurethane or paint, do this before assembly. Coat all of the pieces on all sides, and let them dry for about 24 hours. That way, the pieces will be more protected from weather conditions. Handyman Walter Brant advises "sealing the end of each cut piece of wood to prevent water from entering. If the wood is not pressure-treated, paint the cut surface with exterior paint; if it is pressure-treated, press clear exterior caulk into the surface."
Really push the paint or caulk into place, because you want it to fill all of the pores.
Make sure you've finished cutting, sanding and drilling everything before you apply a finish.
Let the finish dry completely before assembly to avoid smudges.
3. Assembling the Balusters
3-1. Attach balusters near the ends of a thin strip of wood.
Most building codes require that balusters are no more than 4 inches (10 cm) apart. So, if you want them to be 3 inches (7.6 cm) apart, for instance, take one of the thin strips of wood you had cut. Screw the square end of one baluster to the flat surface 3 inches (7.6 cm) from one end of the strip, and another 3 inches (7.6 cm) from the other end of the strip.
Screws that are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) to 2 inches (5.1 cm) should be fine.
3-2. Position the other balusters and attach them to the strip.
Space the other balusters evenly along the strip between the two you already attached. Drive screws that are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) to 2 inches (5.1 cm) through the strip and into the ends of the balusters.
For instance, you could spread your balusters every 3 inches (7.6 cm) along the strip, then screw them in.
If measuring out the place for each baluster seems too tedious, take advantage of an online deck railing calculator to do the hard work for you.
3-3. Screw another thin strip to the bottom of the balusters.
Once you have the tops of the balusters attached to one of the strips, lay another one along their bottoms. Drive screws that are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) to 2 inches (5.1 cm) long through it into the balusters. This will hold them all securely in place.
4. Installing the Rail
4-1. Secure the bottom rail to the posts.
Use a couple of scraps of wood to hold the bottom rail up at the height you want it to be. Pre-drill holes at an angle through its bottom, toward the posts. Then drive long screws through these holes and into the posts so that the bottom rail will stay securely in place.
Screws that are 3 inches (7.6 cm) to 4 inches (10 cm) long should be fine.
4-2. Set the balusters assembly on the bottom rail.
Position the thin strip holding the balusters together on the center of the bottom rail. Drive a few screws (that are no longer than your bottom railing is thick) through the thin strip into the lower rail.
4-3. Lay the top rail down.
Set it on top of the other thin strip holding the balusters in place. Drive a few screws (that are no longer than your top rail is thick) from underneath, through the thin strip and into the bottom of the top rail. Now the pieces of the rail will be securely attached to each other and to the posts.
4-4. Repeat for other sections of railing.
If your deck will have multiple sections of railing between other posts, repeat this process. Measure the distance between the posts, build the baluster assemblies, and attach them to the top and bottom rails.
Tips
For a longer-lasting deck railing, purchase good-quality lumber from a builders' supply store, rather than from a home center, which tends to carry lower-quality lumber.[16]
X
Expert Source
Walter BrantHandyman
Expert Interview. 2 September 2020.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:31",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Installing Posts\\n1-1. Count how many posts you will need.\\nYour deck might already be supported by posts, especially if it is covered. If not, you’ll need to install these so that there will be something to support the railings. According to handyman Walter Brant, \\\"A railing made with pressure-treated wood can span about 8 ft (2.4 m) between posts, while a PVC railing can only have 6 ft (1.8 m) of space between posts. PVC isn't as strong as wood; plus the PVC railings you want may only come in 6 ft (1.8 m) lengths.\\\"\\n1-2. Measure out the posts.\\nCut 4x4s to be at least a little higher than the railing will be, plus extra length to hang below the deck planks. For instance, if you want a railing that is 36 inches (91 cm) high, cut posts that are perhaps 44 inches (110 cm) high.\\nMost building codes require deck railings to be between 36 inches (91 cm) and 42 inches (110 cm) high.\\nThe posts' extra height above the railing is just for looks. An inch or two higher than the railing will look nice.\\nYou'll need enough length hanging below the surface of the deck to attach the posts securely to the supports. For instance, if your deck is made of boards that are 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick and the supports are 6 inches (15 cm) high, then you'll want your posts to be long enough to hang up to 7 inches (18 cm) but at least 4 inches (10 cm) below the railing\\nMany people like to leave about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) or so between the bottom railing and the deck boards as well, so factor this into the post height as well.\\n1-3. Cut the posts to have an overhang.\\nMark a line that goes several inches up the side of the bottom of each post. For instance, if you want your 4x4 posts to hang 4 inches (10 cm) over the edge of your deck, draw a line that far up the side, 2 inches (5.1 cm) from one side of the post (the midpoint of the post). Draw another line perpendicular to the first line's end. Use a saw and cut along the lines you drew to remove a section of the post that is 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm).\\n1-4. Apply finish to the posts.\\nIf you plan on finishing your deck rail, go ahead and apply the finish to the posts before installing. Brush the paint or stain on all sides of the posts and let them dry (about 24 hours).\\n1-5. Mount the posts.\\nHandyman Walter Brant suggests \\\"holding a post in the position where it will be mounted and using a large level to hold it in a vertical position.\\\" Next, use a drill to form pilot holes through the overhang of the posts into the deck joists. Then, drill lag screws or carriage bolts into the pilot holes. If you will be using lag screws, Brant advises \\\"using two ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-diameter galvanized screws with washers, which are rust-proof. Drill ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) holes through the post, followed by ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) pilot holes into the board behind the post.\\\"\\nIf you will use lag bolts, use two ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-diameter galvanized lag bolts with waters and nuts. Washers are used only on the ends of the bolts with the nuts. Drill ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) holes through the post and the board behind it.\\nIf the posts will be higher than the railing (the railings will not be nailed to the tops of the posts), nail a metal or wooden post cap onto the top of the railing. This prevents water from entering at the top.\\n2. Measuring and Cutting the Wood\\n2-1. Mark the railing height on the posts.\\nUsing a tape measure, make a pencil mark in the center of each post. This will probably be between between 36 inches (91 cm) and 42 inches (110 cm), according to your preference and building codes. Many homeowners like to leave a couple of inches open below the bottom of the railing. To compensate for this, set the railing height mark slightly higher than the height of the railing itself.\\nFor instance, if you want a railing that is about 36 inches (91 cm) high, make marks on the posts at 40 inches (100 cm). That will leave enough room for the balusters, the top and bottom of the rail, and a couple inches open at the bottom.\\n2-2. Measure the distance between the posts.\\nIf you didn’t install the posts yourself, you’ll need to know the exact distance between them so that you can cut the railing pieces to size. You’ll need a helper for this.\\nAsk your helper to hold one end of the tape measure in place against the center of a post.\\nStretch the tape measure tightly across to the center of the next post and make a mark.\\nRecord the distance between the posts.\\nCheck the distance where you want the top and bottom rails to sit. If your posts are straight, the distance should be the same. If they're not, change the length of the rails to match the actual distance.\\n2-3. Get balusters and wood for the handrail.\\nTake a trip down to the lumber supply store. You’ll need to get several pieces pre-cut or cut them to size yourself. You can also ask the supply store to cut it to size for you. Handyman Walter Brant suggests \\\"using a miter saw if you plan on cutting the rails and handrails yourself.\\\"\\nCut 1x3 or 2x4 lumber into lengths equal to the distance between your deck posts. You’ll need two pieces for each length of railing (one for the bottom and another for the top).\\nGet plenty of 2x2 balusters to use for the railing. You’ll want to space these no more than 4 inches (10 cm) apart.\\nThe length of the balusters should be approximately the height you want the railing to be. If they’re too long, cut them down.\\nYou’ll also need thin strips of wood. Get something that is about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) by 1.5 inches (3.8 cm). Cut it into lengths equal to the distance between the deck posts. You’ll need one strip per section.\\n2-4. Finish all of the wooden pieces.\\nIf you want to apply a finish to your deck, such as a coat of polyurethane or paint, do this before assembly. Coat all of the pieces on all sides, and let them dry for about 24 hours. That way, the pieces will be more protected from weather conditions. Handyman Walter Brant advises \\\"sealing the end of each cut piece of wood to prevent water from entering. If the wood is not pressure-treated, paint the cut surface with exterior paint; if it is pressure-treated, press clear exterior caulk into the surface.\\\"\\nReally push the paint or caulk into place, because you want it to fill all of the pores.\\nMake sure you've finished cutting, sanding and drilling everything before you apply a finish.\\nLet the finish dry completely before assembly to avoid smudges.\\n3. Assembling the Balusters\\n3-1. Attach balusters near the ends of a thin strip of wood.\\nMost building codes require that balusters are no more than 4 inches (10 cm) apart. So, if you want them to be 3 inches (7.6 cm) apart, for instance, take one of the thin strips of wood you had cut. Screw the square end of one baluster to the flat surface 3 inches (7.6 cm) from one end of the strip, and another 3 inches (7.6 cm) from the other end of the strip.\\nScrews that are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) to 2 inches (5.1 cm) should be fine.\\n3-2. Position the other balusters and attach them to the strip.\\nSpace the other balusters evenly along the strip between the two you already attached. Drive screws that are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) to 2 inches (5.1 cm) through the strip and into the ends of the balusters.\\nFor instance, you could spread your balusters every 3 inches (7.6 cm) along the strip, then screw them in.\\nIf measuring out the place for each baluster seems too tedious, take advantage of an online deck railing calculator to do the hard work for you.\\n3-3. Screw another thin strip to the bottom of the balusters.\\nOnce you have the tops of the balusters attached to one of the strips, lay another one along their bottoms. Drive screws that are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) to 2 inches (5.1 cm) long through it into the balusters. This will hold them all securely in place.\\n4. Installing the Rail\\n4-1. Secure the bottom rail to the posts.\\nUse a couple of scraps of wood to hold the bottom rail up at the height you want it to be. Pre-drill holes at an angle through its bottom, toward the posts. Then drive long screws through these holes and into the posts so that the bottom rail will stay securely in place.\\nScrews that are 3 inches (7.6 cm) to 4 inches (10 cm) long should be fine.\\n4-2. Set the balusters assembly on the bottom rail.\\nPosition the thin strip holding the balusters together on the center of the bottom rail. Drive a few screws (that are no longer than your bottom railing is thick) through the thin strip into the lower rail.\\n4-3. Lay the top rail down.\\nSet it on top of the other thin strip holding the balusters in place. Drive a few screws (that are no longer than your top rail is thick) from underneath, through the thin strip and into the bottom of the top rail. Now the pieces of the rail will be securely attached to each other and to the posts.\\n4-4. Repeat for other sections of railing.\\nIf your deck will have multiple sections of railing between other posts, repeat this process. Measure the distance between the posts, build the baluster assemblies, and attach them to the top and bottom rails.\\nTips\\nFor a longer-lasting deck railing, purchase good-quality lumber from a builders' supply store, rather than from a home center, which tends to carry lower-quality lumber.[16]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nWalter BrantHandyman\\nExpert Interview. 2 September 2020.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Adding a railing to your deck is a great way to give it a finished look. The project’s not as complicated as it might seem, either. If you’ve got some basic carpentry skills, you can do it! Just make sure to check with your local planning and building department first to see if you need any permits or if there are building requirements you'll need to meet.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Installing Posts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Count how many posts you will need.\", \"描述\": \"Your deck might already be supported by posts, especially if it is covered. If not, you’ll need to install these so that there will be something to support the railings. According to handyman Walter Brant, \\\"A railing made with pressure-treated wood can span about 8 ft (2.4 m) between posts, while a PVC railing can only have 6 ft (1.8 m) of space between posts. PVC isn't as strong as wood; plus the PVC railings you want may only come in 6 ft (1.8 m) lengths.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure out the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 4x4s to be at least a little higher than the railing will be, plus extra length to hang below the deck planks. For instance, if you want a railing that is 36 inches (91 cm) high, cut posts that are perhaps 44 inches (110 cm) high.\\nMost building codes require deck railings to be between 36 inches (91 cm) and 42 inches (110 cm) high.\\nThe posts' extra height above the railing is just for looks. An inch or two higher than the railing will look nice.\\nYou'll need enough length hanging below the surface of the deck to attach the posts securely to the supports. For instance, if your deck is made of boards that are 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick and the supports are 6 inches (15 cm) high, then you'll want your posts to be long enough to hang up to 7 inches (18 cm) but at least 4 inches (10 cm) below the railing\\nMany people like to leave about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) or so between the bottom railing and the deck boards as well, so factor this into the post height as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the posts to have an overhang.\", \"描述\": \"Mark a line that goes several inches up the side of the bottom of each post. For instance, if you want your 4x4 posts to hang 4 inches (10 cm) over the edge of your deck, draw a line that far up the side, 2 inches (5.1 cm) from one side of the post (the midpoint of the post). Draw another line perpendicular to the first line's end. Use a saw and cut along the lines you drew to remove a section of the post that is 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 4 inches (10 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Apply finish to the posts.\", \"描述\": \"If you plan on finishing your deck rail, go ahead and apply the finish to the posts before installing. Brush the paint or stain on all sides of the posts and let them dry (about 24 hours).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mount the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Handyman Walter Brant suggests \\\"holding a post in the position where it will be mounted and using a large level to hold it in a vertical position.\\\" Next, use a drill to form pilot holes through the overhang of the posts into the deck joists. Then, drill lag screws or carriage bolts into the pilot holes. If you will be using lag screws, Brant advises \\\"using two ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-diameter galvanized screws with washers, which are rust-proof. Drill ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) holes through the post, followed by ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) pilot holes into the board behind the post.\\\"\\nIf you will use lag bolts, use two ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-diameter galvanized lag bolts with waters and nuts. Washers are used only on the ends of the bolts with the nuts. Drill ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) holes through the post and the board behind it.\\nIf the posts will be higher than the railing (the railings will not be nailed to the tops of the posts), nail a metal or wooden post cap onto the top of the railing. This prevents water from entering at the top.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measuring and Cutting the Wood\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark the railing height on the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Using a tape measure, make a pencil mark in the center of each post. This will probably be between between 36 inches (91 cm) and 42 inches (110 cm), according to your preference and building codes. Many homeowners like to leave a couple of inches open below the bottom of the railing. To compensate for this, set the railing height mark slightly higher than the height of the railing itself.\\nFor instance, if you want a railing that is about 36 inches (91 cm) high, make marks on the posts at 40 inches (100 cm). That will leave enough room for the balusters, the top and bottom of the rail, and a couple inches open at the bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure the distance between the posts.\", \"描述\": \"If you didn’t install the posts yourself, you’ll need to know the exact distance between them so that you can cut the railing pieces to size. You’ll need a helper for this.\\nAsk your helper to hold one end of the tape measure in place against the center of a post.\\nStretch the tape measure tightly across to the center of the next post and make a mark.\\nRecord the distance between the posts.\\nCheck the distance where you want the top and bottom rails to sit. If your posts are straight, the distance should be the same. If they're not, change the length of the rails to match the actual distance.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get balusters and wood for the handrail.\", \"描述\": \"Take a trip down to the lumber supply store. You’ll need to get several pieces pre-cut or cut them to size yourself. You can also ask the supply store to cut it to size for you. Handyman Walter Brant suggests \\\"using a miter saw if you plan on cutting the rails and handrails yourself.\\\"\\nCut 1x3 or 2x4 lumber into lengths equal to the distance between your deck posts. You’ll need two pieces for each length of railing (one for the bottom and another for the top).\\nGet plenty of 2x2 balusters to use for the railing. You’ll want to space these no more than 4 inches (10 cm) apart.\\nThe length of the balusters should be approximately the height you want the railing to be. If they’re too long, cut them down.\\nYou’ll also need thin strips of wood. Get something that is about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) by 1.5 inches (3.8 cm). Cut it into lengths equal to the distance between the deck posts. You’ll need one strip per section.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finish all of the wooden pieces.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to apply a finish to your deck, such as a coat of polyurethane or paint, do this before assembly. Coat all of the pieces on all sides, and let them dry for about 24 hours. That way, the pieces will be more protected from weather conditions. Handyman Walter Brant advises \\\"sealing the end of each cut piece of wood to prevent water from entering. If the wood is not pressure-treated, paint the cut surface with exterior paint; if it is pressure-treated, press clear exterior caulk into the surface.\\\"\\nReally push the paint or caulk into place, because you want it to fill all of the pores.\\nMake sure you've finished cutting, sanding and drilling everything before you apply a finish.\\nLet the finish dry completely before assembly to avoid smudges.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Balusters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach balusters near the ends of a thin strip of wood.\", \"描述\": \"Most building codes require that balusters are no more than 4 inches (10 cm) apart. So, if you want them to be 3 inches (7.6 cm) apart, for instance, take one of the thin strips of wood you had cut. Screw the square end of one baluster to the flat surface 3 inches (7.6 cm) from one end of the strip, and another 3 inches (7.6 cm) from the other end of the strip.\\nScrews that are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) to 2 inches (5.1 cm) should be fine.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Position the other balusters and attach them to the strip.\", \"描述\": \"Space the other balusters evenly along the strip between the two you already attached. Drive screws that are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) to 2 inches (5.1 cm) through the strip and into the ends of the balusters.\\nFor instance, you could spread your balusters every 3 inches (7.6 cm) along the strip, then screw them in.\\nIf measuring out the place for each baluster seems too tedious, take advantage of an online deck railing calculator to do the hard work for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw another thin strip to the bottom of the balusters.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the tops of the balusters attached to one of the strips, lay another one along their bottoms. Drive screws that are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) to 2 inches (5.1 cm) long through it into the balusters. This will hold them all securely in place.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Installing the Rail\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Secure the bottom rail to the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Use a couple of scraps of wood to hold the bottom rail up at the height you want it to be. Pre-drill holes at an angle through its bottom, toward the posts. Then drive long screws through these holes and into the posts so that the bottom rail will stay securely in place.\\nScrews that are 3 inches (7.6 cm) to 4 inches (10 cm) long should be fine.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set the balusters assembly on the bottom rail.\", \"描述\": \"Position the thin strip holding the balusters together on the center of the bottom rail. Drive a few screws (that are no longer than your bottom railing is thick) through the thin strip into the lower rail.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay the top rail down.\", \"描述\": \"Set it on top of the other thin strip holding the balusters in place. Drive a few screws (that are no longer than your top rail is thick) from underneath, through the thin strip and into the bottom of the top rail. Now the pieces of the rail will be securely attached to each other and to the posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat for other sections of railing.\", \"描述\": \"If your deck will have multiple sections of railing between other posts, repeat this process. Measure the distance between the posts, build the baluster assemblies, and attach them to the top and bottom rails.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"For a longer-lasting deck railing, purchase good-quality lumber from a builders' supply store, rather than from a home center, which tends to carry lower-quality lumber.[16]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nWalter BrantHandyman\\nExpert Interview. 2 September 2020.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,309 |
How to Build a Deer Fence
|
1. Gathering the Right Materials
1-1. Locate vulnerable areas susceptible to deer damage.
Deer tend to browse between dusk and dawn so it isn't always possible to see what’s causing damage in the garden. However, deer often leave a few telltale signs behind them, including:
Plant damage that has occurred overnight, particularly to shoots, flower buds, and foliage.
Tree bark that’s been eaten or damaged by deer rubbing their antlers against it.
1-2. Calculate the linear footage by measuring the length of the perimeter.
Use a measuring wheel or tape measure to determine this number. Be sure to account for the distance that is covered by obstacles, such as trees, hedges, and buildings.
Space the perimeter about 3 to 5 feet (0.91 to 1.52 m) outward from the vulnerable area.
1-3. Purchase 1.77-inch x 1.96-inch deer fencing for the best results.
Fencing with 1.77 by 1.96 inch (4.5 cm × 5.0 cm) mesh holes will give you the most protection. However, 1.75 by 2 inch (4.4 cm × 5.1 cm) mesh also works. Add 10 percent extra to your final measurement to account for mistakes. To do so, multiply the final number by 1.1. For example, if the total linear footage is 100 feet (30 m), you need enough fencing to cover 110 feet (34 m).
Avoid 0.75 by 1 inch (1.9 cm × 2.5 cm) mesh fencing, which is designed for smaller animals.
1-4. Buy 6 to 8 foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) tall deer fence posts per 15 feet (4.6 m).
White-tailed deer have the ability to jump almost 8 feet (2.4 m) high, so fences need to either be just as tall or angled outward to compensate.
If your total linear footage (without the 10 percent extra) is 100 feet (30 m), divide this number by 15 to get the number of posts. In this case, you need 7 (6.66 rounded up).
Head to a home hardware store to purchase deer fence posts.
Slant your fence outward at a 45-degree angle for fences less than 8 feet (2.4 m) tall.
1-5. Purchase 8-gauge monofilament wire and ties to hold your fence taut.
Although 12-gauge wiring works, 8-gauge is the most reliable. To determine the amount of monofilament wire you need, multiply your total linear footage by 2. Afterward, purchase 7 to 8 self-locking ties per post.
Although monofilament wire is not necessary, it's a nice addition to keep your fence taut and secure.
1-6. Buy bottom ground stakes to secure your fence to the ground.
Divide the total linear footage by 5 to determine the number of bottom ground stakes you need. For example, a 100 foot (30 m) fence requires 20 bottom ground stakes. Don't use the total linear footage with the 10 percent addition.
Don't skip bottom ground stakes—they prevent deer from getting under the fence.
2. Putting in the Posts
2-1. Line your posts around the perimeter 15 feet (4.6 m) apart.
Before driving your posts into the ground, place them flat on the ground around the perimeter. Each post should be an equal distance—15 feet (4.6 m)—away from each other.
If you're short on posts, divide your total linear footage by 15 again and double-check that you purchased enough.
2-2. Insert your posts into the ground using a post hole driver.
You can purchase a post hole driver from home hardware stores. Hold each post vertically over the perimeter. Now, place the post hole driver on top of the post and grip it by the handles. Apply as much force as you can downward to drive the post into the ground. About 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) of each post should be exposed above the ground.
Make sure each post is driven at least 1 foot (0.30 m) into the ground.
2-3. Drive the posts into the ground using a hammer or rubber mallet.
If you don't have a post hole driver, hold each post vertically over the perimeter with your non-dominant hand. Now, place the side of a hammer or mallet to the top and drive it downward with a hammering motion. Afterward, about 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) of the posts should be visible above the ground.
Be sure that your posts are at least 1 foot (0.30 m) into the ground.
3. Attaching the Fencing
3-1. Connect the fence from the bottom of the first post to the top.
Start by attaching your fence to the top of a post using a zip tie, but don't tie it tightly just yet. Now, do the same for the bottom, but tie it tightly.
Be sure to leave about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) of fencing to account for hills and dips that can decrease when you stretch.
If you have any extra fencing, staple it flush to the ground.
3-2. Fasten your monofilament wire along the top of the fence.
Feed the monofilament wire through the top tip—leaving 1 foot (0.30 m) extra to tie it to the post—and tighten the zip tie. Finally, tie the excess wiring around the post.
Skip this step if you didn't purchase monofilament wiring.
3-3. Continue connecting fencing to your posts.
Move to the right or left down the perimeter and pull the fencing and monofilament wire along with you. Always attach the fencing to the top and bottom of the posts via zip ties, taking care to stretch them out straight so theirs is enough tension that they don't hang loose. Use monofilament wire to keep the top of the fencing straight and secure.
If your fencing has "memory" and retains a curved shape, stretch it out 3 to 4 feet (0.91 to 1.22 m) and bend it into the opposite direction that it was rolled in.
3-4. Fasten the fence to the ground using bottom ground stakes.
Attach the hooked end to the bottom of the fence—over the monofilament wire—and drive the kinked end into the ground with a hammer or rubber mallet. Be sure to attach each bottom ground stake about 5 feet (1.5 m) from each other.
Always drive the kinked end of the stake into the ground—this prevents it from coming loose.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:31",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Gathering the Right Materials\\n1-1. Locate vulnerable areas susceptible to deer damage.\\nDeer tend to browse between dusk and dawn so it isn't always possible to see what’s causing damage in the garden. However, deer often leave a few telltale signs behind them, including:\\nPlant damage that has occurred overnight, particularly to shoots, flower buds, and foliage.\\nTree bark that’s been eaten or damaged by deer rubbing their antlers against it.\\n1-2. Calculate the linear footage by measuring the length of the perimeter.\\nUse a measuring wheel or tape measure to determine this number. Be sure to account for the distance that is covered by obstacles, such as trees, hedges, and buildings.\\nSpace the perimeter about 3 to 5 feet (0.91 to 1.52 m) outward from the vulnerable area.\\n1-3. Purchase 1.77-inch x 1.96-inch deer fencing for the best results.\\nFencing with 1.77 by 1.96 inch (4.5 cm × 5.0 cm) mesh holes will give you the most protection. However, 1.75 by 2 inch (4.4 cm × 5.1 cm) mesh also works. Add 10 percent extra to your final measurement to account for mistakes. To do so, multiply the final number by 1.1. For example, if the total linear footage is 100 feet (30 m), you need enough fencing to cover 110 feet (34 m).\\nAvoid 0.75 by 1 inch (1.9 cm × 2.5 cm) mesh fencing, which is designed for smaller animals.\\n1-4. Buy 6 to 8 foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) tall deer fence posts per 15 feet (4.6 m).\\nWhite-tailed deer have the ability to jump almost 8 feet (2.4 m) high, so fences need to either be just as tall or angled outward to compensate.\\nIf your total linear footage (without the 10 percent extra) is 100 feet (30 m), divide this number by 15 to get the number of posts. In this case, you need 7 (6.66 rounded up).\\nHead to a home hardware store to purchase deer fence posts.\\nSlant your fence outward at a 45-degree angle for fences less than 8 feet (2.4 m) tall.\\n1-5. Purchase 8-gauge monofilament wire and ties to hold your fence taut.\\nAlthough 12-gauge wiring works, 8-gauge is the most reliable. To determine the amount of monofilament wire you need, multiply your total linear footage by 2. Afterward, purchase 7 to 8 self-locking ties per post.\\nAlthough monofilament wire is not necessary, it's a nice addition to keep your fence taut and secure.\\n1-6. Buy bottom ground stakes to secure your fence to the ground.\\nDivide the total linear footage by 5 to determine the number of bottom ground stakes you need. For example, a 100 foot (30 m) fence requires 20 bottom ground stakes. Don't use the total linear footage with the 10 percent addition.\\nDon't skip bottom ground stakes—they prevent deer from getting under the fence.\\n2. Putting in the Posts\\n2-1. Line your posts around the perimeter 15 feet (4.6 m) apart.\\nBefore driving your posts into the ground, place them flat on the ground around the perimeter. Each post should be an equal distance—15 feet (4.6 m)—away from each other.\\nIf you're short on posts, divide your total linear footage by 15 again and double-check that you purchased enough.\\n2-2. Insert your posts into the ground using a post hole driver.\\nYou can purchase a post hole driver from home hardware stores. Hold each post vertically over the perimeter. Now, place the post hole driver on top of the post and grip it by the handles. Apply as much force as you can downward to drive the post into the ground. About 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) of each post should be exposed above the ground.\\nMake sure each post is driven at least 1 foot (0.30 m) into the ground.\\n2-3. Drive the posts into the ground using a hammer or rubber mallet.\\nIf you don't have a post hole driver, hold each post vertically over the perimeter with your non-dominant hand. Now, place the side of a hammer or mallet to the top and drive it downward with a hammering motion. Afterward, about 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) of the posts should be visible above the ground.\\nBe sure that your posts are at least 1 foot (0.30 m) into the ground.\\n3. Attaching the Fencing\\n3-1. Connect the fence from the bottom of the first post to the top.\\nStart by attaching your fence to the top of a post using a zip tie, but don't tie it tightly just yet. Now, do the same for the bottom, but tie it tightly.\\nBe sure to leave about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) of fencing to account for hills and dips that can decrease when you stretch.\\nIf you have any extra fencing, staple it flush to the ground.\\n3-2. Fasten your monofilament wire along the top of the fence.\\nFeed the monofilament wire through the top tip—leaving 1 foot (0.30 m) extra to tie it to the post—and tighten the zip tie. Finally, tie the excess wiring around the post.\\nSkip this step if you didn't purchase monofilament wiring.\\n3-3. Continue connecting fencing to your posts.\\nMove to the right or left down the perimeter and pull the fencing and monofilament wire along with you. Always attach the fencing to the top and bottom of the posts via zip ties, taking care to stretch them out straight so theirs is enough tension that they don't hang loose. Use monofilament wire to keep the top of the fencing straight and secure.\\nIf your fencing has \\\"memory\\\" and retains a curved shape, stretch it out 3 to 4 feet (0.91 to 1.22 m) and bend it into the opposite direction that it was rolled in.\\n3-4. Fasten the fence to the ground using bottom ground stakes.\\nAttach the hooked end to the bottom of the fence—over the monofilament wire—and drive the kinked end into the ground with a hammer or rubber mallet. Be sure to attach each bottom ground stake about 5 feet (1.5 m) from each other.\\nAlways drive the kinked end of the stake into the ground—this prevents it from coming loose.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Wild deer can cause a problem for gardeners by destroying plants and trees. And since deer tend to browse for food overnight, this can be difficult to prevent. Although you can use soap as a deer deterrent, a more effective preventative method is to build a deer fence. This forms a physical barrier which prevents the deer from entering your garden and causing damage. Fortunately, deer fences are fairly simple to erect.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gathering the Right Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Locate vulnerable areas susceptible to deer damage.\", \"描述\": \"Deer tend to browse between dusk and dawn so it isn't always possible to see what’s causing damage in the garden. However, deer often leave a few telltale signs behind them, including:\\nPlant damage that has occurred overnight, particularly to shoots, flower buds, and foliage.\\nTree bark that’s been eaten or damaged by deer rubbing their antlers against it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Calculate the linear footage by measuring the length of the perimeter.\", \"描述\": \"Use a measuring wheel or tape measure to determine this number. Be sure to account for the distance that is covered by obstacles, such as trees, hedges, and buildings.\\nSpace the perimeter about 3 to 5 feet (0.91 to 1.52 m) outward from the vulnerable area.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase 1.77-inch x 1.96-inch deer fencing for the best results.\", \"描述\": \"Fencing with 1.77 by 1.96 inch (4.5 cm × 5.0 cm) mesh holes will give you the most protection. However, 1.75 by 2 inch (4.4 cm × 5.1 cm) mesh also works. Add 10 percent extra to your final measurement to account for mistakes. To do so, multiply the final number by 1.1. For example, if the total linear footage is 100 feet (30 m), you need enough fencing to cover 110 feet (34 m).\\nAvoid 0.75 by 1 inch (1.9 cm × 2.5 cm) mesh fencing, which is designed for smaller animals.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Buy 6 to 8 foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) tall deer fence posts per 15 feet (4.6 m).\", \"描述\": \"White-tailed deer have the ability to jump almost 8 feet (2.4 m) high, so fences need to either be just as tall or angled outward to compensate.\\nIf your total linear footage (without the 10 percent extra) is 100 feet (30 m), divide this number by 15 to get the number of posts. In this case, you need 7 (6.66 rounded up).\\nHead to a home hardware store to purchase deer fence posts.\\nSlant your fence outward at a 45-degree angle for fences less than 8 feet (2.4 m) tall.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Purchase 8-gauge monofilament wire and ties to hold your fence taut.\", \"描述\": \"Although 12-gauge wiring works, 8-gauge is the most reliable. To determine the amount of monofilament wire you need, multiply your total linear footage by 2. Afterward, purchase 7 to 8 self-locking ties per post.\\nAlthough monofilament wire is not necessary, it's a nice addition to keep your fence taut and secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Buy bottom ground stakes to secure your fence to the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Divide the total linear footage by 5 to determine the number of bottom ground stakes you need. For example, a 100 foot (30 m) fence requires 20 bottom ground stakes. Don't use the total linear footage with the 10 percent addition.\\nDon't skip bottom ground stakes—they prevent deer from getting under the fence.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Putting in the Posts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Line your posts around the perimeter 15 feet (4.6 m) apart.\", \"描述\": \"Before driving your posts into the ground, place them flat on the ground around the perimeter. Each post should be an equal distance—15 feet (4.6 m)—away from each other.\\nIf you're short on posts, divide your total linear footage by 15 again and double-check that you purchased enough.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Insert your posts into the ground using a post hole driver.\", \"描述\": \"You can purchase a post hole driver from home hardware stores. Hold each post vertically over the perimeter. Now, place the post hole driver on top of the post and grip it by the handles. Apply as much force as you can downward to drive the post into the ground. About 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) of each post should be exposed above the ground.\\nMake sure each post is driven at least 1 foot (0.30 m) into the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drive the posts into the ground using a hammer or rubber mallet.\", \"描述\": \"If you don't have a post hole driver, hold each post vertically over the perimeter with your non-dominant hand. Now, place the side of a hammer or mallet to the top and drive it downward with a hammering motion. Afterward, about 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) of the posts should be visible above the ground.\\nBe sure that your posts are at least 1 foot (0.30 m) into the ground.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Fencing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect the fence from the bottom of the first post to the top.\", \"描述\": \"Start by attaching your fence to the top of a post using a zip tie, but don't tie it tightly just yet. Now, do the same for the bottom, but tie it tightly.\\nBe sure to leave about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) of fencing to account for hills and dips that can decrease when you stretch.\\nIf you have any extra fencing, staple it flush to the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fasten your monofilament wire along the top of the fence.\", \"描述\": \"Feed the monofilament wire through the top tip—leaving 1 foot (0.30 m) extra to tie it to the post—and tighten the zip tie. Finally, tie the excess wiring around the post.\\nSkip this step if you didn't purchase monofilament wiring.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Continue connecting fencing to your posts.\", \"描述\": \"Move to the right or left down the perimeter and pull the fencing and monofilament wire along with you. Always attach the fencing to the top and bottom of the posts via zip ties, taking care to stretch them out straight so theirs is enough tension that they don't hang loose. Use monofilament wire to keep the top of the fencing straight and secure.\\nIf your fencing has \\\"memory\\\" and retains a curved shape, stretch it out 3 to 4 feet (0.91 to 1.22 m) and bend it into the opposite direction that it was rolled in.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fasten the fence to the ground using bottom ground stakes.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the hooked end to the bottom of the fence—over the monofilament wire—and drive the kinked end into the ground with a hammer or rubber mallet. Be sure to attach each bottom ground stake about 5 feet (1.5 m) from each other.\\nAlways drive the kinked end of the stake into the ground—this prevents it from coming loose.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,310 |
How to Build a Desk
|
1. Fashioning the Desktop
1-1. Measure the area where you’ll be putting your desk.
Once you’ve determined where your new desk will go, stretch a tape measure from one end of your workspace to the other. Write down or make a mental note of the measurements you get. You’ll need to keep them in mind while gathering your materials and planning the dimensions of your desk.
If you don’t think you have enough room for a full-sized desk, consider installing a floating desk along the wall of your workspace. Floating desks can be as small as 1.5 feet (0.46 m) x 3 feet (0.91 m), and often require only 1-2 pieces of wood.
1-2. Decide on a practical size for your desk.
If you have roughly 5 square feet (0.46 m) of space to work with, you might make a desk that’s 2 feet (0.61 m) long by 4 feet (1.2 m) wide to ensure that you’ll have plenty of room. Of course, you’re free to play around with the dimensions of your desk however you see fit. Don’t forget to account for the space that your chair or stool will occupy when settling on a size for your desk.
Most standard desks are around 29–30 inches (74–76 cm) high. Internal dimensions vary, but some of the more common lengths include 48 in (120 cm), 60 in (150 cm), and 72 in (180 cm), with widths of 24 in (61 cm), 30 in (76 cm), and 36 in (91 cm).
To keep things simple, round off the planned measurements for your desk to the nearest ⁄2 foot (0.15 m). This will make all the measuring, marking, and cutting much easier.
1-3. Cut your wood to the appropriate dimensions.
It’s possible to construct a basic desk entirely out of 2x6 and/or 2x4 boards. Mark your chosen measurements on your boards in pencil and use a circular saw or miter saw to trim them to size. For a 2 ft (0.61 m) x 4 ft (1.2 m) desk, you would simply cut two 8 ft (2.4 m) 2x6 boards in half lengthwise to get four pieces that you can then assemble into a single plane.
You’ll be clamping multiple boards together to fashion the desktop, so be sure to shave off any rounded edges on the boards that will go in the middle section. Setting the adjustable blade guard on your saw will make this task easier.
If you don’t want to bother with a lot of cutting and clamping, another option is to buy a solid door slab or sheet of laminated ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood and use it as a readymade one-piece desktop.
1-4. Sand the wood thoroughly to prepare it for paint or stain.
Once you’ve finished cutting your boards, run a sheet of medium- or high-grit sandpaper (80-120-grit will provide the best results) over the faces and edges of each piece using smooth circular motions. The idea is to scuff up the surface of the wood so it will better accept paint or stain.
An automated finishing sander can save you quite a bit of time and energy compared to manual sanding.
If you’d prefer to leave your wood unfinished for more of a contemporary rustic look, you can skip straight to gluing the boards together.
1-5. Glue your boards together end-to-end widthwise into a single piece.
Apply a straight, even line of glue to the cut edge of your first board, leaving the rounded edge clean. Then, press one of the cut edges of the next board into place and spread another line of glue onto the far edge. Continue in this fashion until you have each of your boards properly situated. Use a series of clamps (you’ll need at least 2) to hold the boards tightly together as the glue begins to dry.
Wipe off any excess glue that seeps out through the cracks in the boards right away to prevent it from hardening on the surface of the wood.
Allow the glue to dry for at least 1 hour before unclamping the boards and proceeding with your project.
1-6. Paint
After the glue has had time to dry completely, apply 2-3 coats of paint or stain in the shade of your choice to your desktop. To achieve full coverage, brush or wipe on your color both with and against the pattern of the wood grain. Let each coat of paint or stain dry to the touch before applying follow-up coats.
Add stain one layer at a time until you get the desired depth of color, wiping off the excess pigment between coats.
When you’re satisfied with the appearance of your newly-finished desktop, allow it to dry for at least 24 hours.
2. Attaching the Legs
2-1. Cut your own custom desk legs using 2x4 boards.
Start by sawing a 2x4 board into 2 pieces that are the same width as your desktop, minus the width of the two legs that will go on either side. These pieces will serve as supports to brace the desk from beneath. Once you’ve done this, cut your remaining wood into 4 identical legs. Their length should correspond to the desired height of your desk, minus the width of the boards making up the desktop.
Note that 2x4 boards are actually only 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) thick, not a full 2 inches (5.1 cm). This means that if your desktop is 24 inches (61 cm) wide, each of your support pieces will need to be 21 inches (53 cm) to allow enough room for a leg on either side.
Similarly, you’ll need to subtract 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from your initial table leg measurements to reflect the thickness of the desktop—you want your desk to sit 28 inches (71 cm) off of the ground, for example, each of your legs will need to be 26.5 inches (67 cm) long.
Paint or stain your table legs to match your desktop, or leave them unfinished to provide some visual contrast.
2-2. Purchase premade desk legs to give your desk a more polished look.
You can find premade desk and table legs at most hardware stores and home improvement centers, as well as certain specialty furniture stores like IKEA. They’re available in a variety of lengths, shapes, and materials, which means you’re sure to find the perfect set to complete the style of desk you’ve envisioned.
Metal legs, for instance, could give a lightly-stained wooden desk a sleek, minimalistic modern air, while square frames can keep the underside of a desk from looking so open without sacrificing valuable storage space.
2-3. Use other items as improvised legs for a thrifty and unique approach.
Keep in mind that you’re not limited to simple 2x4 or premade legs. You might also turn a few old wooden pedestals into one-of-a-kind decorative stands to lend your desk added personality, or even just secure your desktop to a pair of sawhorses for a clever, no-fuss solution. The possibilities are virtually endless!
Think outside the box and keep your eyes peeled for interesting materials and objects that you think might make good legs for a homemade desk.
Examples of other unusual items you could utilize as legs include plywood sheeting, bamboo, industrial pipe, telescopic metal poles, or even modified wooden crates or pallets.
2-4. Attach your desk legs to the bottom of your desktop using wood screws.
To fasten legs cut from 2x4 boards, drill 2 screws through the outer edge of each leg and into the end of the central support piece on each side of the desk. Then, sink another screw every 7 inches (18 cm) along the length of the support. Jostle your desk gently when you’re finished to confirm that it’s stable.
Store-bought desk legs typically have screw holes molded into the ends to make the assembly process a cinch.
You may need to get creative when it comes to putting on legs made from converted or salvaged materials, depending on the general shape and configuration of the pieces.
3. Incorporating Additional Features
3-1. Buy or build drawers to keep your work materials organized.
A few pull-out drawers can come in handy for stashing things like documents, devices, and spare office supplies. To add drawers to your desk, it will first be necessary to install slide hardware or a separate wooden frames along the underside of the desktop, then guide your drawers into position inside the slots.
Make sure the drawers you use are a suitable size for your desk’s overall dimensions.
Antique stores and thrift shops are good place to hunt for old furniture containing drawers that you might be able to transplant into your homemade desk.
3-2. Substitute other furniture items to maximize your storage potential.
For some people, a couple sliding drawers just won’t cut it. If you need to create as much built-in storage space as possible, one thing you can do is forego legs altogether in favor of supports that double as their own storage solutions, such as bookshelves, metal racks, or filing cabinets. Just align your items with the edges of your desktop, screw or bolt it on, and get to work!
Choose storage pieces that are approximately the same height that you want your desk to be.
If you like, you could even cut legs for one side of your desk and place a cabinet or shelf on the opposite side to get the best of both worlds.
3-3. Add a hole to the back of the desk to hide your devices’ electrical cords.
Fit your drill with a hole saw attachment and use it to make an opening in an inconspicuous spot along the desk’s rear edge. Slip a plastic grommet of the same size into the hole to cover the exposed edges of the wood, then thread the cables for your computer, keyboard, printer, scanner, and other electronic equipment through the hole to keep them bundled together out of sight.
Creating a hidden cord hole can be a good way to keep all those pesky wires and cables organized and out of the way, especially if you plan on positioning your desk flush against the wall of your work space.
Hole saws come in a variety of diameters, ranging from less than 1 in (2.5 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm). Use the size that you think will work best to contain all of the cords for your various devices.
3-4. Mount your desktop on the wall to make a floating desk.
A minimalistic floating desk can make a savvy and attractive alternative to a traditional leg-supported desk if storage isn’t a major concern. Simply attach a pair of brackets to your wall at the desired height and fasten your desktop to the brackets. You can use all the time you save to catch up on all those unanswered emails you have sitting in your inbox.
Floating desks can make for tidier workspaces, as they enable easy cleaning and leave the floor open for separate storage solutions or additional furniture or accessories.
Mount your desk at around chest height to make a standing desk that also functions as an inconspicuous shelf when you’re not working.
3-5. Make an L-shaped desk to double your work area.
Putting together an L-shaped desk is as simple as cutting, sanding, and painting a second desktop and securing it perpendicularly to one of the edges of the first. The add-on only requires slightly more work, but can end up offering you twice the amount of space (or more), which can be a big benefit if you’re an artist, avid crafter, or just really, really busy.
To avoid complicating things, use the same type of wood for both sections of your L-shaped desk.
Remember that you’ll need to attach 2 additional legs or another rack, shelf, or cabinet to support the extension.
Tips
If possible, put your desk together in the room where you’ll be using it so you won’t have to move it in after it’s assembled.
Warnings
Exercise caution anytime you're working with power saws and other potentially dangerous equipment.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:31",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Fashioning the Desktop\\n1-1. Measure the area where you’ll be putting your desk.\\nOnce you’ve determined where your new desk will go, stretch a tape measure from one end of your workspace to the other. Write down or make a mental note of the measurements you get. You’ll need to keep them in mind while gathering your materials and planning the dimensions of your desk.\\nIf you don’t think you have enough room for a full-sized desk, consider installing a floating desk along the wall of your workspace. Floating desks can be as small as 1.5 feet (0.46 m) x 3 feet (0.91 m), and often require only 1-2 pieces of wood.\\n1-2. Decide on a practical size for your desk.\\nIf you have roughly 5 square feet (0.46 m) of space to work with, you might make a desk that’s 2 feet (0.61 m) long by 4 feet (1.2 m) wide to ensure that you’ll have plenty of room. Of course, you’re free to play around with the dimensions of your desk however you see fit. Don’t forget to account for the space that your chair or stool will occupy when settling on a size for your desk.\\n\\nMost standard desks are around 29–30 inches (74–76 cm) high. Internal dimensions vary, but some of the more common lengths include 48 in (120 cm), 60 in (150 cm), and 72 in (180 cm), with widths of 24 in (61 cm), 30 in (76 cm), and 36 in (91 cm).\\nTo keep things simple, round off the planned measurements for your desk to the nearest ⁄2 foot (0.15 m). This will make all the measuring, marking, and cutting much easier.\\n1-3. Cut your wood to the appropriate dimensions.\\nIt’s possible to construct a basic desk entirely out of 2x6 and/or 2x4 boards. Mark your chosen measurements on your boards in pencil and use a circular saw or miter saw to trim them to size. For a 2 ft (0.61 m) x 4 ft (1.2 m) desk, you would simply cut two 8 ft (2.4 m) 2x6 boards in half lengthwise to get four pieces that you can then assemble into a single plane.\\nYou’ll be clamping multiple boards together to fashion the desktop, so be sure to shave off any rounded edges on the boards that will go in the middle section. Setting the adjustable blade guard on your saw will make this task easier.\\nIf you don’t want to bother with a lot of cutting and clamping, another option is to buy a solid door slab or sheet of laminated ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood and use it as a readymade one-piece desktop.\\n1-4. Sand the wood thoroughly to prepare it for paint or stain.\\nOnce you’ve finished cutting your boards, run a sheet of medium- or high-grit sandpaper (80-120-grit will provide the best results) over the faces and edges of each piece using smooth circular motions. The idea is to scuff up the surface of the wood so it will better accept paint or stain.\\nAn automated finishing sander can save you quite a bit of time and energy compared to manual sanding.\\nIf you’d prefer to leave your wood unfinished for more of a contemporary rustic look, you can skip straight to gluing the boards together.\\n1-5. Glue your boards together end-to-end widthwise into a single piece.\\nApply a straight, even line of glue to the cut edge of your first board, leaving the rounded edge clean. Then, press one of the cut edges of the next board into place and spread another line of glue onto the far edge. Continue in this fashion until you have each of your boards properly situated. Use a series of clamps (you’ll need at least 2) to hold the boards tightly together as the glue begins to dry.\\nWipe off any excess glue that seeps out through the cracks in the boards right away to prevent it from hardening on the surface of the wood.\\nAllow the glue to dry for at least 1 hour before unclamping the boards and proceeding with your project.\\n1-6. Paint\\nAfter the glue has had time to dry completely, apply 2-3 coats of paint or stain in the shade of your choice to your desktop. To achieve full coverage, brush or wipe on your color both with and against the pattern of the wood grain. Let each coat of paint or stain dry to the touch before applying follow-up coats.\\nAdd stain one layer at a time until you get the desired depth of color, wiping off the excess pigment between coats.\\nWhen you’re satisfied with the appearance of your newly-finished desktop, allow it to dry for at least 24 hours.\\n2. Attaching the Legs\\n2-1. Cut your own custom desk legs using 2x4 boards.\\nStart by sawing a 2x4 board into 2 pieces that are the same width as your desktop, minus the width of the two legs that will go on either side. These pieces will serve as supports to brace the desk from beneath. Once you’ve done this, cut your remaining wood into 4 identical legs. Their length should correspond to the desired height of your desk, minus the width of the boards making up the desktop.\\nNote that 2x4 boards are actually only 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) thick, not a full 2 inches (5.1 cm). This means that if your desktop is 24 inches (61 cm) wide, each of your support pieces will need to be 21 inches (53 cm) to allow enough room for a leg on either side.\\nSimilarly, you’ll need to subtract 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from your initial table leg measurements to reflect the thickness of the desktop—you want your desk to sit 28 inches (71 cm) off of the ground, for example, each of your legs will need to be 26.5 inches (67 cm) long.\\nPaint or stain your table legs to match your desktop, or leave them unfinished to provide some visual contrast.\\n2-2. Purchase premade desk legs to give your desk a more polished look.\\nYou can find premade desk and table legs at most hardware stores and home improvement centers, as well as certain specialty furniture stores like IKEA. They’re available in a variety of lengths, shapes, and materials, which means you’re sure to find the perfect set to complete the style of desk you’ve envisioned.\\nMetal legs, for instance, could give a lightly-stained wooden desk a sleek, minimalistic modern air, while square frames can keep the underside of a desk from looking so open without sacrificing valuable storage space.\\n2-3. Use other items as improvised legs for a thrifty and unique approach.\\nKeep in mind that you’re not limited to simple 2x4 or premade legs. You might also turn a few old wooden pedestals into one-of-a-kind decorative stands to lend your desk added personality, or even just secure your desktop to a pair of sawhorses for a clever, no-fuss solution. The possibilities are virtually endless!\\nThink outside the box and keep your eyes peeled for interesting materials and objects that you think might make good legs for a homemade desk.\\nExamples of other unusual items you could utilize as legs include plywood sheeting, bamboo, industrial pipe, telescopic metal poles, or even modified wooden crates or pallets.\\n2-4. Attach your desk legs to the bottom of your desktop using wood screws.\\nTo fasten legs cut from 2x4 boards, drill 2 screws through the outer edge of each leg and into the end of the central support piece on each side of the desk. Then, sink another screw every 7 inches (18 cm) along the length of the support. Jostle your desk gently when you’re finished to confirm that it’s stable.\\nStore-bought desk legs typically have screw holes molded into the ends to make the assembly process a cinch.\\nYou may need to get creative when it comes to putting on legs made from converted or salvaged materials, depending on the general shape and configuration of the pieces.\\n3. Incorporating Additional Features\\n3-1. Buy or build drawers to keep your work materials organized.\\nA few pull-out drawers can come in handy for stashing things like documents, devices, and spare office supplies. To add drawers to your desk, it will first be necessary to install slide hardware or a separate wooden frames along the underside of the desktop, then guide your drawers into position inside the slots.\\nMake sure the drawers you use are a suitable size for your desk’s overall dimensions.\\nAntique stores and thrift shops are good place to hunt for old furniture containing drawers that you might be able to transplant into your homemade desk.\\n3-2. Substitute other furniture items to maximize your storage potential.\\nFor some people, a couple sliding drawers just won’t cut it. If you need to create as much built-in storage space as possible, one thing you can do is forego legs altogether in favor of supports that double as their own storage solutions, such as bookshelves, metal racks, or filing cabinets. Just align your items with the edges of your desktop, screw or bolt it on, and get to work!\\nChoose storage pieces that are approximately the same height that you want your desk to be.\\nIf you like, you could even cut legs for one side of your desk and place a cabinet or shelf on the opposite side to get the best of both worlds.\\n3-3. Add a hole to the back of the desk to hide your devices’ electrical cords.\\nFit your drill with a hole saw attachment and use it to make an opening in an inconspicuous spot along the desk’s rear edge. Slip a plastic grommet of the same size into the hole to cover the exposed edges of the wood, then thread the cables for your computer, keyboard, printer, scanner, and other electronic equipment through the hole to keep them bundled together out of sight.\\nCreating a hidden cord hole can be a good way to keep all those pesky wires and cables organized and out of the way, especially if you plan on positioning your desk flush against the wall of your work space.\\nHole saws come in a variety of diameters, ranging from less than 1 in (2.5 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm). Use the size that you think will work best to contain all of the cords for your various devices.\\n3-4. Mount your desktop on the wall to make a floating desk.\\nA minimalistic floating desk can make a savvy and attractive alternative to a traditional leg-supported desk if storage isn’t a major concern. Simply attach a pair of brackets to your wall at the desired height and fasten your desktop to the brackets. You can use all the time you save to catch up on all those unanswered emails you have sitting in your inbox.\\nFloating desks can make for tidier workspaces, as they enable easy cleaning and leave the floor open for separate storage solutions or additional furniture or accessories.\\nMount your desk at around chest height to make a standing desk that also functions as an inconspicuous shelf when you’re not working.\\n3-5. Make an L-shaped desk to double your work area.\\nPutting together an L-shaped desk is as simple as cutting, sanding, and painting a second desktop and securing it perpendicularly to one of the edges of the first. The add-on only requires slightly more work, but can end up offering you twice the amount of space (or more), which can be a big benefit if you’re an artist, avid crafter, or just really, really busy.\\nTo avoid complicating things, use the same type of wood for both sections of your L-shaped desk.\\nRemember that you’ll need to attach 2 additional legs or another rack, shelf, or cabinet to support the extension.\\nTips\\nIf possible, put your desk together in the room where you’ll be using it so you won’t have to move it in after it’s assembled.\\nWarnings\\nExercise caution anytime you're working with power saws and other potentially dangerous equipment.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Why drop big bucks on a new desk for your home office when you could build one yourself? Making a basic, functional desk is a relatively simple project that anyone can pull off with little or no furniture crafting experience. First, measure your workspace and decide on a practical size for your desk. Then, purchase your wood and other supplies and cut the boards to the appropriate dimensions to serve as your desktop and legs. Finally, paint or stain your components as desired and put them together using wood screws to ensure that your finished desk is sturdy, stable, and built to last.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fashioning the Desktop\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the area where you’ll be putting your desk.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve determined where your new desk will go, stretch a tape measure from one end of your workspace to the other. Write down or make a mental note of the measurements you get. You’ll need to keep them in mind while gathering your materials and planning the dimensions of your desk.\\nIf you don’t think you have enough room for a full-sized desk, consider installing a floating desk along the wall of your workspace. Floating desks can be as small as 1.5 feet (0.46 m) x 3 feet (0.91 m), and often require only 1-2 pieces of wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide on a practical size for your desk.\", \"描述\": \"If you have roughly 5 square feet (0.46 m) of space to work with, you might make a desk that’s 2 feet (0.61 m) long by 4 feet (1.2 m) wide to ensure that you’ll have plenty of room. Of course, you’re free to play around with the dimensions of your desk however you see fit. Don’t forget to account for the space that your chair or stool will occupy when settling on a size for your desk.\\n\\nMost standard desks are around 29–30 inches (74–76 cm) high. Internal dimensions vary, but some of the more common lengths include 48 in (120 cm), 60 in (150 cm), and 72 in (180 cm), with widths of 24 in (61 cm), 30 in (76 cm), and 36 in (91 cm).\\nTo keep things simple, round off the planned measurements for your desk to the nearest ⁄2 foot (0.15 m). This will make all the measuring, marking, and cutting much easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut your wood to the appropriate dimensions.\", \"描述\": \"It’s possible to construct a basic desk entirely out of 2x6 and/or 2x4 boards. Mark your chosen measurements on your boards in pencil and use a circular saw or miter saw to trim them to size. For a 2 ft (0.61 m) x 4 ft (1.2 m) desk, you would simply cut two 8 ft (2.4 m) 2x6 boards in half lengthwise to get four pieces that you can then assemble into a single plane.\\nYou’ll be clamping multiple boards together to fashion the desktop, so be sure to shave off any rounded edges on the boards that will go in the middle section. Setting the adjustable blade guard on your saw will make this task easier.\\nIf you don’t want to bother with a lot of cutting and clamping, another option is to buy a solid door slab or sheet of laminated ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood and use it as a readymade one-piece desktop.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Sand the wood thoroughly to prepare it for paint or stain.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve finished cutting your boards, run a sheet of medium- or high-grit sandpaper (80-120-grit will provide the best results) over the faces and edges of each piece using smooth circular motions. The idea is to scuff up the surface of the wood so it will better accept paint or stain.\\nAn automated finishing sander can save you quite a bit of time and energy compared to manual sanding.\\nIf you’d prefer to leave your wood unfinished for more of a contemporary rustic look, you can skip straight to gluing the boards together.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Glue your boards together end-to-end widthwise into a single piece.\", \"描述\": \"Apply a straight, even line of glue to the cut edge of your first board, leaving the rounded edge clean. Then, press one of the cut edges of the next board into place and spread another line of glue onto the far edge. Continue in this fashion until you have each of your boards properly situated. Use a series of clamps (you’ll need at least 2) to hold the boards tightly together as the glue begins to dry.\\nWipe off any excess glue that seeps out through the cracks in the boards right away to prevent it from hardening on the surface of the wood.\\nAllow the glue to dry for at least 1 hour before unclamping the boards and proceeding with your project.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Paint\", \"描述\": \"After the glue has had time to dry completely, apply 2-3 coats of paint or stain in the shade of your choice to your desktop. To achieve full coverage, brush or wipe on your color both with and against the pattern of the wood grain. Let each coat of paint or stain dry to the touch before applying follow-up coats.\\nAdd stain one layer at a time until you get the desired depth of color, wiping off the excess pigment between coats.\\nWhen you’re satisfied with the appearance of your newly-finished desktop, allow it to dry for at least 24 hours.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Legs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut your own custom desk legs using 2x4 boards.\", \"描述\": \"Start by sawing a 2x4 board into 2 pieces that are the same width as your desktop, minus the width of the two legs that will go on either side. These pieces will serve as supports to brace the desk from beneath. Once you’ve done this, cut your remaining wood into 4 identical legs. Their length should correspond to the desired height of your desk, minus the width of the boards making up the desktop.\\nNote that 2x4 boards are actually only 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) thick, not a full 2 inches (5.1 cm). This means that if your desktop is 24 inches (61 cm) wide, each of your support pieces will need to be 21 inches (53 cm) to allow enough room for a leg on either side.\\nSimilarly, you’ll need to subtract 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from your initial table leg measurements to reflect the thickness of the desktop—you want your desk to sit 28 inches (71 cm) off of the ground, for example, each of your legs will need to be 26.5 inches (67 cm) long.\\nPaint or stain your table legs to match your desktop, or leave them unfinished to provide some visual contrast.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase premade desk legs to give your desk a more polished look.\", \"描述\": \"You can find premade desk and table legs at most hardware stores and home improvement centers, as well as certain specialty furniture stores like IKEA. They’re available in a variety of lengths, shapes, and materials, which means you’re sure to find the perfect set to complete the style of desk you’ve envisioned.\\nMetal legs, for instance, could give a lightly-stained wooden desk a sleek, minimalistic modern air, while square frames can keep the underside of a desk from looking so open without sacrificing valuable storage space.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use other items as improvised legs for a thrifty and unique approach.\", \"描述\": \"Keep in mind that you’re not limited to simple 2x4 or premade legs. You might also turn a few old wooden pedestals into one-of-a-kind decorative stands to lend your desk added personality, or even just secure your desktop to a pair of sawhorses for a clever, no-fuss solution. The possibilities are virtually endless!\\nThink outside the box and keep your eyes peeled for interesting materials and objects that you think might make good legs for a homemade desk.\\nExamples of other unusual items you could utilize as legs include plywood sheeting, bamboo, industrial pipe, telescopic metal poles, or even modified wooden crates or pallets.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach your desk legs to the bottom of your desktop using wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"To fasten legs cut from 2x4 boards, drill 2 screws through the outer edge of each leg and into the end of the central support piece on each side of the desk. Then, sink another screw every 7 inches (18 cm) along the length of the support. Jostle your desk gently when you’re finished to confirm that it’s stable.\\nStore-bought desk legs typically have screw holes molded into the ends to make the assembly process a cinch.\\nYou may need to get creative when it comes to putting on legs made from converted or salvaged materials, depending on the general shape and configuration of the pieces.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Incorporating Additional Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy or build drawers to keep your work materials organized.\", \"描述\": \"A few pull-out drawers can come in handy for stashing things like documents, devices, and spare office supplies. To add drawers to your desk, it will first be necessary to install slide hardware or a separate wooden frames along the underside of the desktop, then guide your drawers into position inside the slots.\\nMake sure the drawers you use are a suitable size for your desk’s overall dimensions.\\nAntique stores and thrift shops are good place to hunt for old furniture containing drawers that you might be able to transplant into your homemade desk.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Substitute other furniture items to maximize your storage potential.\", \"描述\": \"For some people, a couple sliding drawers just won’t cut it. If you need to create as much built-in storage space as possible, one thing you can do is forego legs altogether in favor of supports that double as their own storage solutions, such as bookshelves, metal racks, or filing cabinets. Just align your items with the edges of your desktop, screw or bolt it on, and get to work!\\nChoose storage pieces that are approximately the same height that you want your desk to be.\\nIf you like, you could even cut legs for one side of your desk and place a cabinet or shelf on the opposite side to get the best of both worlds.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a hole to the back of the desk to hide your devices’ electrical cords.\", \"描述\": \"Fit your drill with a hole saw attachment and use it to make an opening in an inconspicuous spot along the desk’s rear edge. Slip a plastic grommet of the same size into the hole to cover the exposed edges of the wood, then thread the cables for your computer, keyboard, printer, scanner, and other electronic equipment through the hole to keep them bundled together out of sight.\\nCreating a hidden cord hole can be a good way to keep all those pesky wires and cables organized and out of the way, especially if you plan on positioning your desk flush against the wall of your work space.\\nHole saws come in a variety of diameters, ranging from less than 1 in (2.5 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm). Use the size that you think will work best to contain all of the cords for your various devices.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mount your desktop on the wall to make a floating desk.\", \"描述\": \"A minimalistic floating desk can make a savvy and attractive alternative to a traditional leg-supported desk if storage isn’t a major concern. Simply attach a pair of brackets to your wall at the desired height and fasten your desktop to the brackets. You can use all the time you save to catch up on all those unanswered emails you have sitting in your inbox.\\nFloating desks can make for tidier workspaces, as they enable easy cleaning and leave the floor open for separate storage solutions or additional furniture or accessories.\\nMount your desk at around chest height to make a standing desk that also functions as an inconspicuous shelf when you’re not working.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make an L-shaped desk to double your work area.\", \"描述\": \"Putting together an L-shaped desk is as simple as cutting, sanding, and painting a second desktop and securing it perpendicularly to one of the edges of the first. The add-on only requires slightly more work, but can end up offering you twice the amount of space (or more), which can be a big benefit if you’re an artist, avid crafter, or just really, really busy.\\nTo avoid complicating things, use the same type of wood for both sections of your L-shaped desk.\\nRemember that you’ll need to attach 2 additional legs or another rack, shelf, or cabinet to support the extension.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If possible, put your desk together in the room where you’ll be using it so you won’t have to move it in after it’s assembled.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Exercise caution anytime you're working with power saws and other potentially dangerous equipment.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,311 |
How to Build a Digital Library in Windows
|
1. Instructions for Windows
1-1. To begin, have an understanding that you are about to build you very own digital library and as in all libraries, some form of organization needs to be set.
1-2. Open your file explorer and navigate to the libraries sections.
1-3. Select "New Library" and rename your new library "Books".
1-4. Double click your new Library and select the "Include a folder" tab.
1-5. A window will pop up.
Select the "New folder" tab and rename this folder "My Books". Select your new "Books" folder and click Select "Include a folder".
You now have a library for pictures, Videos, Documents, Music, and Books.
1-6. Now that you have a library for all the categories needed, each time you download a new item, select the matching library for the format you downloaded and assign this new item into a new folder labeled its sub category.
For example, if you download an epub: create a new folder in the Books library and name it "epub". If you download a PDF book, create a new folder and name it "pdf's" and create a sub category like "Romance","Instructions", or "Horror" etc. Another example is if you save a word document, create a new folder in the documents library and name it its category like "Homework" or "Legal Document" or "Letters" etc.
1-7. Repeat the process for each new download that you acquire making sure that you put it in the correct library and its corresponding folder that you create.
By assigning different categories within each library, you stand a chance in acquiring any information you need at a later time.
Tips
By using the method explained above, you can quickly access your items by using the navigation section on the left hand side of the windows explorer and selecting the correct library.
You can save as and use the method explained above to quickly find the location where you want to save your item.
If you download and forget to save the item, don't worry about not finding it because it will usually be in the "downloads" sections that you can also find on the left hand side of the file explorer. Then when you find the download, just right click and cut (or highlight it and press ctrl x), then navigate to the folder you wish you to put it in and paste it (ctrl v) inside.
Warnings
When you paste an item inside a folder, do not have any folder highlighted that you don't want to paste the item into otherwise windows will paste it inside that folder. Sometimes you have to click on the edge of the window so that nothing is highlighted so that it doesn't paste outside your current folder.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:31",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Instructions for Windows\\n1-1. To begin, have an understanding that you are about to build you very own digital library and as in all libraries, some form of organization needs to be set.\\n\\n1-2. Open your file explorer and navigate to the libraries sections.\\n\\n1-3. Select \\\"New Library\\\" and rename your new library \\\"Books\\\".\\n\\n1-4. Double click your new Library and select the \\\"Include a folder\\\" tab.\\n\\n1-5. A window will pop up.\\nSelect the \\\"New folder\\\" tab and rename this folder \\\"My Books\\\". Select your new \\\"Books\\\" folder and click Select \\\"Include a folder\\\".\\nYou now have a library for pictures, Videos, Documents, Music, and Books.\\n1-6. Now that you have a library for all the categories needed, each time you download a new item, select the matching library for the format you downloaded and assign this new item into a new folder labeled its sub category.\\nFor example, if you download an epub: create a new folder in the Books library and name it \\\"epub\\\". If you download a PDF book, create a new folder and name it \\\"pdf's\\\" and create a sub category like \\\"Romance\\\",\\\"Instructions\\\", or \\\"Horror\\\" etc. Another example is if you save a word document, create a new folder in the documents library and name it its category like \\\"Homework\\\" or \\\"Legal Document\\\" or \\\"Letters\\\" etc.\\n1-7. Repeat the process for each new download that you acquire making sure that you put it in the correct library and its corresponding folder that you create.\\nBy assigning different categories within each library, you stand a chance in acquiring any information you need at a later time.\\nTips\\nBy using the method explained above, you can quickly access your items by using the navigation section on the left hand side of the windows explorer and selecting the correct library.\\nYou can save as and use the method explained above to quickly find the location where you want to save your item.\\nIf you download and forget to save the item, don't worry about not finding it because it will usually be in the \\\"downloads\\\" sections that you can also find on the left hand side of the file explorer. Then when you find the download, just right click and cut (or highlight it and press ctrl x), then navigate to the folder you wish you to put it in and paste it (ctrl v) inside.\\nWarnings\\nWhen you paste an item inside a folder, do not have any folder highlighted that you don't want to paste the item into otherwise windows will paste it inside that folder. Sometimes you have to click on the edge of the window so that nothing is highlighted so that it doesn't paste outside your current folder.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a digital library can be quite a wonderful activity that can lead to a disastrous mess. After purchasing many online books, mp3's, movies, and downloading pictures from the many sites available, you can find yourself swarmed with too much information with nowhere to find any of it. What do you do?\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Instructions for Windows\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"To begin, have an understanding that you are about to build you very own digital library and as in all libraries, some form of organization needs to be set.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Open your file explorer and navigate to the libraries sections.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Select \\\"New Library\\\" and rename your new library \\\"Books\\\".\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Double click your new Library and select the \\\"Include a folder\\\" tab.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"A window will pop up.\", \"描述\": \"Select the \\\"New folder\\\" tab and rename this folder \\\"My Books\\\". Select your new \\\"Books\\\" folder and click Select \\\"Include a folder\\\".\\nYou now have a library for pictures, Videos, Documents, Music, and Books.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Now that you have a library for all the categories needed, each time you download a new item, select the matching library for the format you downloaded and assign this new item into a new folder labeled its sub category.\", \"描述\": \"For example, if you download an epub: create a new folder in the Books library and name it \\\"epub\\\". If you download a PDF book, create a new folder and name it \\\"pdf's\\\" and create a sub category like \\\"Romance\\\",\\\"Instructions\\\", or \\\"Horror\\\" etc. Another example is if you save a word document, create a new folder in the documents library and name it its category like \\\"Homework\\\" or \\\"Legal Document\\\" or \\\"Letters\\\" etc.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Repeat the process for each new download that you acquire making sure that you put it in the correct library and its corresponding folder that you create.\", \"描述\": \"By assigning different categories within each library, you stand a chance in acquiring any information you need at a later time.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"By using the method explained above, you can quickly access your items by using the navigation section on the left hand side of the windows explorer and selecting the correct library.\\n\", \"You can save as and use the method explained above to quickly find the location where you want to save your item.\\n\", \"If you download and forget to save the item, don't worry about not finding it because it will usually be in the \\\"downloads\\\" sections that you can also find on the left hand side of the file explorer. Then when you find the download, just right click and cut (or highlight it and press ctrl x), then navigate to the folder you wish you to put it in and paste it (ctrl v) inside.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"When you paste an item inside a folder, do not have any folder highlighted that you don't want to paste the item into otherwise windows will paste it inside that folder. Sometimes you have to click on the edge of the window so that nothing is highlighted so that it doesn't paste outside your current folder.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,312 |
How to Build a Dirt Bike Ramp
|
1. Deciding What to Build
1-1. Determine how much space you have.
You’ll need around a third of an acre at the bare minimum to make a dirt jump track. If you have any doubts about making the space permanent, it’s a good idea to build a wood ramp instead of digging jumps into the ground. And of course, make sure you have the authority or permission to build or dig.
If you decide to dig dirt jumps, you’ll need to locate an area where you’ll have enough room to accelerate, for take-off and landing ramps, and for decelerating and stopping after hitting the jump.
You’ll need even more room if you plan on making a circuit track, or a loop from the end of the jump to its start.
1-2. Decide if portability is best.
Whether you need a portable or permanent jump will determine what you build. A portable, wooden ramp would be better if, for example, you’ve got a great spot to practice jumps up in the mountains that you only drive to every now and then. If you don’t want to or don’t have permission to dig up your land, go with the portable wood ramp. You can tow it to any location suitable for practicing jumps.
In order to build a permanent site, you’ll have to make absolutely sure you have permission to modify the land you’re building on.
1-3. Think about what materials are easier for you to access.
Building a dirt bike ramp is no joke, whether you’re constructing it out of wood or digging it into the ground. If it’s easier and more cost effective to acquire wood beams, planks, a saw, nails, and a nail gun, build a wooden ramp. If you or a friend have easy access to a backhoe or other heavy-duty digging equipment, dig out a dirt jump. Consider what’s easiest to build and easiest on your wallet.
2. Building Dirt Jumps
2-1. Start digging the hole.
Use a sharp, rounded shovel, and get your friends to help get it going. Make it as deep and wide as your skill level can handle: shoot for three or four feet deep and two feet wide for starters. Plan out the hole’s placement, so it’ll eventually form the area in between your jumps.
Don't just throw the dirt anywhere. You’ll need it to form take-off and landing mounds.
Getting the ground soft by wetting it down before you dig makes this step easier.
Think of how you want the final product to turn out, making sure you leave room for deceleration.
If you prefer a loop, map out a circuit track that leads back to the start of the course with a hose, rope, or other long, movable object. Once you’ve decided on the best track, use a shovel to dig it out.
Use a backhoe or other heavy-duty digging equipment if you have access.
2-2. Build up the dirt mounds.
Use the dirt that you dug out from the jump’s hole to build out the take-off and landing ramps. To make the cores of the ramps, use construction surplus, like broken concrete, cinder blocks, and bricks. Form them into a suitable mound shape and begin to cover them with dirt. Do not use logs, branches, or similar items that will decay and cause your jumps to collapse. Add thick layers of dirt, and pack them in to form a secure, solid mound.
The mounds’ heights varies on your skill level. Don’t bite off more than you can chew: don’t go over two feet in height if you’re a beginner.
2-3. Use your bike tires to roll over the jumps.
If you don’t have another vehicle to do so, use your bike to really pack in the dirt mounds. At a slow speed, roll your front tire up the ramp to make the lip. This also compacts the ramp more, making them more usable and stable.
The landing ramp should always be bigger than the take-off ramp and not as steep as the take-off ramp.
2-4. Wet the mounds and pack them more.
Get the mounds wet and muddy, and pack them in even more. Use your bike wheels again and stamp your feet. After letting the dirt harden in the sun for two or three days, wet and pack them at least once more.
It’s important to take time to make sure everything is compacted, otherwise your landing will hurt..
2-5. Try the ramp out.
Give the ramp a test, and make changes as necessary. You might find that you need to make the lips on either jumping or landing ends smoother by scraping off dirt. Or, on the other hand, you might find that you need to add more dirt. If so, repeat the process of wet packing the mounds.
3. Building a Wood Ramp
3-1. Get your hands on some plans.
You can find plans online for either a full freestyle ramp or a basic FMX ramp. Alternatively, if you’re mechanically skilled and already have a lot of knowledge about ramp sizing and proportions, you can make your own drawings. It is, however, important to get your measurements and a visual down on paper before you get started.
You should have some experience with woodworking before attempting to build a ramp on your own.
Do not use tools such as saws or nail guns without permission, ability, and, if necessary, supervision.
3-2. Measure and cut supports.
Use 2x6" lumber for your support structure. Measure and cut four 10 foot beams for the base supports. Then, measure and cut four sets of vertical support beams. Each beam will need to be angled at the top end. This angle will form the incline of your ramp.
It’s easiest, quickest, and most accurate to use a miter saw to make the crosscut for the angle at the top of the vertical supports. If you don’t have a miter, you’ll just have to carefully measure and mark your boards to make sure they’re cut as precisely as possible.
For a basic FMX ramp, cut the tallest vertical supports so one side is 40" in height and the other is 36". Each individual beam should thus have one side that’s longer than the other. The result will be a 56 degree slant, or angle, at their tops.
For the second tallest pair of vertical supports, cut them so one side is 22 1/2" and the other is 19 3/4". Each should have a slant at their tops of about 65 degrees.
Cut the third pair of vertical supports so one side is 10 1/2" and the other is 8 1/2".
Cut the fourth pair of vertical supports so one side is 2 3/4" and the other is 1 1/2".
3-3. Build the base supports.
Lay two 10 foot 2x6" beams down parallel on their 6" faces. These will be the support structure’s “feet.” Using 3" nails throughout, nail another 2x6" beam along each support foot’s side, so they’re perpendicular, or form an “L” shape. The second pair of 10 foot beams will form a lip that’ll hold in place the rest of the vertical support beams.
3-4. Nail in the first pair of vertical supports.
The first pair of 2x6" vertical supports are the ones that measure 36" and 40" at their tops. Position one flush against the lip formed by the 10 foot beams, all the way to the end of one side, and nail it into place. Nail the other tallest support post into place on the other support foot.
Make sure these and all other support posts mirror each other. The slants at their tops should face the same way, so they form the incline of the ramp.
3-5. Nail in the second pair of vertical supports 30 inches from the first pair.
Measure 30" in from the ends of the first pair of support posts and mark the spot with a pencil. This is where you’ll position the second pair. Position them, and nail them into place on both sets of 10 foot bottom beams.
3-6. Nail in the third and fourth pairs of vertical supports.
For the third pair of vertical supports, measure 60" in from end of the first set of vertical posts. Mark the measurement, position the posts, and nail them into place. For the fourth set, measure 120" from the ends of the first set, mark, position, and nail them.
3-7. Install the middle supports.
At this point, you should have two sets of 10-foot bottom supports with four vertical posts nailed into each. You will link them together by nailing down middle supports at each vertical post. Measure and cut four 3 foot, 2x6" beams. Line up the bottom 10-foot long supports, keeping them parallel, and space them three feet apart. Start on each end to make sure the supports are square, and position the middle support beams where you’ve nailed each pair of vertical posts.
Carefully position first to get a feel for their fit. You might even use masking tape to hold them in place.
Make sure you’ve got everything flush and square, then start nailing the middle supports into place.
Take special care on this step: it’s essential to make sure the two halves are square and lined up with each other or your ramp will turn out unstable.
3-8. Cut and install horizontal beams to top the vertical supports.
Now that you’ve built the basic support structure, you have to start on the ramp itself. The vertical supports with the angled tops that you’ve built will hold beams across them. In turn, these horizontal beams will support the ramp surface.
Cut three 3-foot, 2x6" beams. These three beams will be for the first, third, and fourth pairs of vertical posts.
Use a 3-foot, 2x4" beam to top the second-tallest pair of vertical supports. A 2x4" here, rather than a 2x6", will give the plywood sheets that will form the surface of the ramp more give.
3-9. Install plywood sheets for the ramp surface.
Cut 1/2" plywood into 3-foot by 6-foot sheets. To attach them to the support structure, it’s important to use 2 1/2" to 3" screws instead of nails. Nails will not hold the plywood surface in place properly. Drive them as close to the edge of the sheet as possible for maximum stability. Once you’ve installed one layer of plywood, add a second to cover it.
Make sure to overlap the edges of your plywood: don’t let their ends match up, or the result will be a groove that’ll ruin your ramp. You’ll have to cut the second layer of plywood sheets at a different length in order to keep your sheets from matching up.
Use a steel saw to clean the ramp up and cut off any plywood overhanging at the high end of the ramp.
3-10. Nail in cross supports from corner to corner.
Once you’ve added double layers of plywood sheets for the ramp surface and removed any unsupported, overhanging edges, add 2x6" cross supports to the tallest set of vertical posts. Measure the diagonal distance between the four corners, and cut beams to match that length.
Warnings
Dirt bikes, jumps, and tricks can be dangerous and serious injury can result from attempting anything beyond your skill level.
Whatever you decide to build, make sure your materials are good quality, and that you take your time making sure it’s stable enough to support the weight of you and your bike.
Inspect your bike and tires for flaws before attempting any jumps.
Do not attempt woodworking without prior experience or adequate supervision. Attempting to build something beyond your abilities can result in serious injury at worst, and wasted time and materials at best.
Use goggles when working with saws and other equipment.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:32",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Deciding What to Build\\n1-1. Determine how much space you have.\\nYou’ll need around a third of an acre at the bare minimum to make a dirt jump track. If you have any doubts about making the space permanent, it’s a good idea to build a wood ramp instead of digging jumps into the ground. And of course, make sure you have the authority or permission to build or dig.\\nIf you decide to dig dirt jumps, you’ll need to locate an area where you’ll have enough room to accelerate, for take-off and landing ramps, and for decelerating and stopping after hitting the jump.\\nYou’ll need even more room if you plan on making a circuit track, or a loop from the end of the jump to its start.\\n1-2. Decide if portability is best.\\nWhether you need a portable or permanent jump will determine what you build. A portable, wooden ramp would be better if, for example, you’ve got a great spot to practice jumps up in the mountains that you only drive to every now and then. If you don’t want to or don’t have permission to dig up your land, go with the portable wood ramp. You can tow it to any location suitable for practicing jumps.\\nIn order to build a permanent site, you’ll have to make absolutely sure you have permission to modify the land you’re building on.\\n1-3. Think about what materials are easier for you to access.\\nBuilding a dirt bike ramp is no joke, whether you’re constructing it out of wood or digging it into the ground. If it’s easier and more cost effective to acquire wood beams, planks, a saw, nails, and a nail gun, build a wooden ramp. If you or a friend have easy access to a backhoe or other heavy-duty digging equipment, dig out a dirt jump. Consider what’s easiest to build and easiest on your wallet.\\n2. Building Dirt Jumps\\n2-1. Start digging the hole.\\nUse a sharp, rounded shovel, and get your friends to help get it going. Make it as deep and wide as your skill level can handle: shoot for three or four feet deep and two feet wide for starters. Plan out the hole’s placement, so it’ll eventually form the area in between your jumps.\\nDon't just throw the dirt anywhere. You’ll need it to form take-off and landing mounds.\\nGetting the ground soft by wetting it down before you dig makes this step easier.\\nThink of how you want the final product to turn out, making sure you leave room for deceleration.\\nIf you prefer a loop, map out a circuit track that leads back to the start of the course with a hose, rope, or other long, movable object. Once you’ve decided on the best track, use a shovel to dig it out.\\nUse a backhoe or other heavy-duty digging equipment if you have access.\\n2-2. Build up the dirt mounds.\\nUse the dirt that you dug out from the jump’s hole to build out the take-off and landing ramps. To make the cores of the ramps, use construction surplus, like broken concrete, cinder blocks, and bricks. Form them into a suitable mound shape and begin to cover them with dirt. Do not use logs, branches, or similar items that will decay and cause your jumps to collapse. Add thick layers of dirt, and pack them in to form a secure, solid mound.\\nThe mounds’ heights varies on your skill level. Don’t bite off more than you can chew: don’t go over two feet in height if you’re a beginner.\\n2-3. Use your bike tires to roll over the jumps.\\nIf you don’t have another vehicle to do so, use your bike to really pack in the dirt mounds. At a slow speed, roll your front tire up the ramp to make the lip. This also compacts the ramp more, making them more usable and stable.\\nThe landing ramp should always be bigger than the take-off ramp and not as steep as the take-off ramp.\\n2-4. Wet the mounds and pack them more.\\nGet the mounds wet and muddy, and pack them in even more. Use your bike wheels again and stamp your feet. After letting the dirt harden in the sun for two or three days, wet and pack them at least once more.\\nIt’s important to take time to make sure everything is compacted, otherwise your landing will hurt..\\n2-5. Try the ramp out.\\nGive the ramp a test, and make changes as necessary. You might find that you need to make the lips on either jumping or landing ends smoother by scraping off dirt. Or, on the other hand, you might find that you need to add more dirt. If so, repeat the process of wet packing the mounds.\\n3. Building a Wood Ramp\\n3-1. Get your hands on some plans.\\nYou can find plans online for either a full freestyle ramp or a basic FMX ramp. Alternatively, if you’re mechanically skilled and already have a lot of knowledge about ramp sizing and proportions, you can make your own drawings. It is, however, important to get your measurements and a visual down on paper before you get started.\\nYou should have some experience with woodworking before attempting to build a ramp on your own.\\nDo not use tools such as saws or nail guns without permission, ability, and, if necessary, supervision.\\n3-2. Measure and cut supports.\\nUse 2x6\\\" lumber for your support structure. Measure and cut four 10 foot beams for the base supports. Then, measure and cut four sets of vertical support beams. Each beam will need to be angled at the top end. This angle will form the incline of your ramp.\\nIt’s easiest, quickest, and most accurate to use a miter saw to make the crosscut for the angle at the top of the vertical supports. If you don’t have a miter, you’ll just have to carefully measure and mark your boards to make sure they’re cut as precisely as possible.\\nFor a basic FMX ramp, cut the tallest vertical supports so one side is 40\\\" in height and the other is 36\\\". Each individual beam should thus have one side that’s longer than the other. The result will be a 56 degree slant, or angle, at their tops.\\nFor the second tallest pair of vertical supports, cut them so one side is 22 1/2\\\" and the other is 19 3/4\\\". Each should have a slant at their tops of about 65 degrees.\\nCut the third pair of vertical supports so one side is 10 1/2\\\" and the other is 8 1/2\\\".\\nCut the fourth pair of vertical supports so one side is 2 3/4\\\" and the other is 1 1/2\\\".\\n3-3. Build the base supports.\\nLay two 10 foot 2x6\\\" beams down parallel on their 6\\\" faces. These will be the support structure’s “feet.” Using 3\\\" nails throughout, nail another 2x6\\\" beam along each support foot’s side, so they’re perpendicular, or form an “L” shape. The second pair of 10 foot beams will form a lip that’ll hold in place the rest of the vertical support beams.\\n3-4. Nail in the first pair of vertical supports.\\nThe first pair of 2x6\\\" vertical supports are the ones that measure 36\\\" and 40\\\" at their tops. Position one flush against the lip formed by the 10 foot beams, all the way to the end of one side, and nail it into place. Nail the other tallest support post into place on the other support foot.\\nMake sure these and all other support posts mirror each other. The slants at their tops should face the same way, so they form the incline of the ramp.\\n3-5. Nail in the second pair of vertical supports 30 inches from the first pair.\\nMeasure 30\\\" in from the ends of the first pair of support posts and mark the spot with a pencil. This is where you’ll position the second pair. Position them, and nail them into place on both sets of 10 foot bottom beams.\\n3-6. Nail in the third and fourth pairs of vertical supports.\\nFor the third pair of vertical supports, measure 60\\\" in from end of the first set of vertical posts. Mark the measurement, position the posts, and nail them into place. For the fourth set, measure 120\\\" from the ends of the first set, mark, position, and nail them.\\n3-7. Install the middle supports.\\nAt this point, you should have two sets of 10-foot bottom supports with four vertical posts nailed into each. You will link them together by nailing down middle supports at each vertical post. Measure and cut four 3 foot, 2x6\\\" beams. Line up the bottom 10-foot long supports, keeping them parallel, and space them three feet apart. Start on each end to make sure the supports are square, and position the middle support beams where you’ve nailed each pair of vertical posts.\\nCarefully position first to get a feel for their fit. You might even use masking tape to hold them in place.\\nMake sure you’ve got everything flush and square, then start nailing the middle supports into place.\\nTake special care on this step: it’s essential to make sure the two halves are square and lined up with each other or your ramp will turn out unstable.\\n3-8. Cut and install horizontal beams to top the vertical supports.\\nNow that you’ve built the basic support structure, you have to start on the ramp itself. The vertical supports with the angled tops that you’ve built will hold beams across them. In turn, these horizontal beams will support the ramp surface.\\nCut three 3-foot, 2x6\\\" beams. These three beams will be for the first, third, and fourth pairs of vertical posts.\\nUse a 3-foot, 2x4\\\" beam to top the second-tallest pair of vertical supports. A 2x4\\\" here, rather than a 2x6\\\", will give the plywood sheets that will form the surface of the ramp more give.\\n3-9. Install plywood sheets for the ramp surface.\\nCut 1/2\\\" plywood into 3-foot by 6-foot sheets. To attach them to the support structure, it’s important to use 2 1/2\\\" to 3\\\" screws instead of nails. Nails will not hold the plywood surface in place properly. Drive them as close to the edge of the sheet as possible for maximum stability. Once you’ve installed one layer of plywood, add a second to cover it.\\nMake sure to overlap the edges of your plywood: don’t let their ends match up, or the result will be a groove that’ll ruin your ramp. You’ll have to cut the second layer of plywood sheets at a different length in order to keep your sheets from matching up.\\nUse a steel saw to clean the ramp up and cut off any plywood overhanging at the high end of the ramp.\\n3-10. Nail in cross supports from corner to corner.\\nOnce you’ve added double layers of plywood sheets for the ramp surface and removed any unsupported, overhanging edges, add 2x6\\\" cross supports to the tallest set of vertical posts. Measure the diagonal distance between the four corners, and cut beams to match that length.\\nWarnings\\nDirt bikes, jumps, and tricks can be dangerous and serious injury can result from attempting anything beyond your skill level.\\nWhatever you decide to build, make sure your materials are good quality, and that you take your time making sure it’s stable enough to support the weight of you and your bike.\\nInspect your bike and tires for flaws before attempting any jumps.\\nDo not attempt woodworking without prior experience or adequate supervision. Attempting to build something beyond your abilities can result in serious injury at worst, and wasted time and materials at best.\\nUse goggles when working with saws and other equipment.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you have the space and some time on your hands, you can build your own incredible dirt bike jump or ramp for your own personal use. The first things to consider are whether you want a more portable ramp, or if it’s better to build more permanent jumps. Think about what you want, what you can do given your time and tools, and what you and your friends will most enjoy. After deciding what’s best for your situation, learn how to build what you need to practice those amazing jumps and tricks.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Deciding What to Build\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine how much space you have.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need around a third of an acre at the bare minimum to make a dirt jump track. If you have any doubts about making the space permanent, it’s a good idea to build a wood ramp instead of digging jumps into the ground. And of course, make sure you have the authority or permission to build or dig.\\nIf you decide to dig dirt jumps, you’ll need to locate an area where you’ll have enough room to accelerate, for take-off and landing ramps, and for decelerating and stopping after hitting the jump.\\nYou’ll need even more room if you plan on making a circuit track, or a loop from the end of the jump to its start.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide if portability is best.\", \"描述\": \"Whether you need a portable or permanent jump will determine what you build. A portable, wooden ramp would be better if, for example, you’ve got a great spot to practice jumps up in the mountains that you only drive to every now and then. If you don’t want to or don’t have permission to dig up your land, go with the portable wood ramp. You can tow it to any location suitable for practicing jumps.\\nIn order to build a permanent site, you’ll have to make absolutely sure you have permission to modify the land you’re building on.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Think about what materials are easier for you to access.\", \"描述\": \"Building a dirt bike ramp is no joke, whether you’re constructing it out of wood or digging it into the ground. If it’s easier and more cost effective to acquire wood beams, planks, a saw, nails, and a nail gun, build a wooden ramp. If you or a friend have easy access to a backhoe or other heavy-duty digging equipment, dig out a dirt jump. Consider what’s easiest to build and easiest on your wallet.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building Dirt Jumps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start digging the hole.\", \"描述\": \"Use a sharp, rounded shovel, and get your friends to help get it going. Make it as deep and wide as your skill level can handle: shoot for three or four feet deep and two feet wide for starters. Plan out the hole’s placement, so it’ll eventually form the area in between your jumps.\\nDon't just throw the dirt anywhere. You’ll need it to form take-off and landing mounds.\\nGetting the ground soft by wetting it down before you dig makes this step easier.\\nThink of how you want the final product to turn out, making sure you leave room for deceleration.\\nIf you prefer a loop, map out a circuit track that leads back to the start of the course with a hose, rope, or other long, movable object. Once you’ve decided on the best track, use a shovel to dig it out.\\nUse a backhoe or other heavy-duty digging equipment if you have access.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build up the dirt mounds.\", \"描述\": \"Use the dirt that you dug out from the jump’s hole to build out the take-off and landing ramps. To make the cores of the ramps, use construction surplus, like broken concrete, cinder blocks, and bricks. Form them into a suitable mound shape and begin to cover them with dirt. Do not use logs, branches, or similar items that will decay and cause your jumps to collapse. Add thick layers of dirt, and pack them in to form a secure, solid mound.\\nThe mounds’ heights varies on your skill level. Don’t bite off more than you can chew: don’t go over two feet in height if you’re a beginner.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use your bike tires to roll over the jumps.\", \"描述\": \"If you don’t have another vehicle to do so, use your bike to really pack in the dirt mounds. At a slow speed, roll your front tire up the ramp to make the lip. This also compacts the ramp more, making them more usable and stable.\\nThe landing ramp should always be bigger than the take-off ramp and not as steep as the take-off ramp.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wet the mounds and pack them more.\", \"描述\": \"Get the mounds wet and muddy, and pack them in even more. Use your bike wheels again and stamp your feet. After letting the dirt harden in the sun for two or three days, wet and pack them at least once more.\\nIt’s important to take time to make sure everything is compacted, otherwise your landing will hurt..\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Try the ramp out.\", \"描述\": \"Give the ramp a test, and make changes as necessary. You might find that you need to make the lips on either jumping or landing ends smoother by scraping off dirt. Or, on the other hand, you might find that you need to add more dirt. If so, repeat the process of wet packing the mounds.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Wood Ramp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get your hands on some plans.\", \"描述\": \"You can find plans online for either a full freestyle ramp or a basic FMX ramp. Alternatively, if you’re mechanically skilled and already have a lot of knowledge about ramp sizing and proportions, you can make your own drawings. It is, however, important to get your measurements and a visual down on paper before you get started.\\nYou should have some experience with woodworking before attempting to build a ramp on your own.\\nDo not use tools such as saws or nail guns without permission, ability, and, if necessary, supervision.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut supports.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2x6\\\" lumber for your support structure. Measure and cut four 10 foot beams for the base supports. Then, measure and cut four sets of vertical support beams. Each beam will need to be angled at the top end. This angle will form the incline of your ramp.\\nIt’s easiest, quickest, and most accurate to use a miter saw to make the crosscut for the angle at the top of the vertical supports. If you don’t have a miter, you’ll just have to carefully measure and mark your boards to make sure they’re cut as precisely as possible.\\nFor a basic FMX ramp, cut the tallest vertical supports so one side is 40\\\" in height and the other is 36\\\". Each individual beam should thus have one side that’s longer than the other. The result will be a 56 degree slant, or angle, at their tops.\\nFor the second tallest pair of vertical supports, cut them so one side is 22 1/2\\\" and the other is 19 3/4\\\". Each should have a slant at their tops of about 65 degrees.\\nCut the third pair of vertical supports so one side is 10 1/2\\\" and the other is 8 1/2\\\".\\nCut the fourth pair of vertical supports so one side is 2 3/4\\\" and the other is 1 1/2\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the base supports.\", \"描述\": \"Lay two 10 foot 2x6\\\" beams down parallel on their 6\\\" faces. These will be the support structure’s “feet.” Using 3\\\" nails throughout, nail another 2x6\\\" beam along each support foot’s side, so they’re perpendicular, or form an “L” shape. The second pair of 10 foot beams will form a lip that’ll hold in place the rest of the vertical support beams.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Nail in the first pair of vertical supports.\", \"描述\": \"The first pair of 2x6\\\" vertical supports are the ones that measure 36\\\" and 40\\\" at their tops. Position one flush against the lip formed by the 10 foot beams, all the way to the end of one side, and nail it into place. Nail the other tallest support post into place on the other support foot.\\nMake sure these and all other support posts mirror each other. The slants at their tops should face the same way, so they form the incline of the ramp.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Nail in the second pair of vertical supports 30 inches from the first pair.\", \"描述\": \"Measure 30\\\" in from the ends of the first pair of support posts and mark the spot with a pencil. This is where you’ll position the second pair. Position them, and nail them into place on both sets of 10 foot bottom beams.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Nail in the third and fourth pairs of vertical supports.\", \"描述\": \"For the third pair of vertical supports, measure 60\\\" in from end of the first set of vertical posts. Mark the measurement, position the posts, and nail them into place. For the fourth set, measure 120\\\" from the ends of the first set, mark, position, and nail them.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install the middle supports.\", \"描述\": \"At this point, you should have two sets of 10-foot bottom supports with four vertical posts nailed into each. You will link them together by nailing down middle supports at each vertical post. Measure and cut four 3 foot, 2x6\\\" beams. Line up the bottom 10-foot long supports, keeping them parallel, and space them three feet apart. Start on each end to make sure the supports are square, and position the middle support beams where you’ve nailed each pair of vertical posts.\\nCarefully position first to get a feel for their fit. You might even use masking tape to hold them in place.\\nMake sure you’ve got everything flush and square, then start nailing the middle supports into place.\\nTake special care on this step: it’s essential to make sure the two halves are square and lined up with each other or your ramp will turn out unstable.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut and install horizontal beams to top the vertical supports.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you’ve built the basic support structure, you have to start on the ramp itself. The vertical supports with the angled tops that you’ve built will hold beams across them. In turn, these horizontal beams will support the ramp surface.\\nCut three 3-foot, 2x6\\\" beams. These three beams will be for the first, third, and fourth pairs of vertical posts.\\nUse a 3-foot, 2x4\\\" beam to top the second-tallest pair of vertical supports. A 2x4\\\" here, rather than a 2x6\\\", will give the plywood sheets that will form the surface of the ramp more give.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Install plywood sheets for the ramp surface.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 1/2\\\" plywood into 3-foot by 6-foot sheets. To attach them to the support structure, it’s important to use 2 1/2\\\" to 3\\\" screws instead of nails. Nails will not hold the plywood surface in place properly. Drive them as close to the edge of the sheet as possible for maximum stability. Once you’ve installed one layer of plywood, add a second to cover it.\\nMake sure to overlap the edges of your plywood: don’t let their ends match up, or the result will be a groove that’ll ruin your ramp. You’ll have to cut the second layer of plywood sheets at a different length in order to keep your sheets from matching up.\\nUse a steel saw to clean the ramp up and cut off any plywood overhanging at the high end of the ramp.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Nail in cross supports from corner to corner.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve added double layers of plywood sheets for the ramp surface and removed any unsupported, overhanging edges, add 2x6\\\" cross supports to the tallest set of vertical posts. Measure the diagonal distance between the four corners, and cut beams to match that length.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Dirt bikes, jumps, and tricks can be dangerous and serious injury can result from attempting anything beyond your skill level.\\n\", \"Whatever you decide to build, make sure your materials are good quality, and that you take your time making sure it’s stable enough to support the weight of you and your bike.\\n\", \"Inspect your bike and tires for flaws before attempting any jumps.\\n\", \"Do not attempt woodworking without prior experience or adequate supervision. Attempting to build something beyond your abilities can result in serious injury at worst, and wasted time and materials at best.\\n\", \"Use goggles when working with saws and other equipment.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,313 |
How to Build a Dock
|
1. Steps
1-1. Gather all the supplies you will need to build a dock.
The list of items can be found at the bottom of this article in the "Things You'll Need" section.
1-2. Visit the area of the water where you plan to build your dock, and bring your supplies with you.
Get as close to the water as you can to build it because once it is complete, it will be very heavy and difficult to move.
1-3. Make a square with your 8-foot (2.4 m) long 2-by-8 pieces, and screw them together.
Keep 2 sides of the square on the inside so that you construct a perfect 8-foot-by-8-foot (2.54-by-2.54 m) square. Place your 4-by-4-inch (10-by-10 cm) pieces inside each corner to ensure 4 perfect right angles. Don't screw in the pieces yet in case you need to make adjustments.
1-4. Prepare your barrels.
Make sure all plugs are tightened, and apply a layer of silicone caulking over and around the plug to prevent leaks.
1-5. Add supports to the basic frame you constructed.
Measure, and find the middle of the square. When you have found the center, place an 8-foot (2.4 m) long 2-by-4 support there.
1-6. Place 4 of your pieces parallel to the center support piece.
Lay a barrel on its side on top of the support pieces. Shift them left or right accordingly until a barrel can sit between 2 boards without touching the ground but still can grip the curve in the barrel. Mark that point, and screw in the 4 boards. Do this for both sides.
1-7. Create a perpendicular layer of supports above the layer you just constructed.
Place the barrels on the bottom supports and measure where they end. Place a top layer of 2 of your 8-foot (2.4 m) long 2-by-4 perpendicular supports here. Screw them in securely.
1-8. Screw in the 4-by-4-inch (10-by-10 cm) pieces for a more secure hold.
Attach L braces at each of the support intersections.
1-9. Place eye hooks on the bottom support layer where the barrels sit.
Put 2 on each side of each barrel. Lay down all 4 of your barrels between the supports that have eye hooks, and tie down the barrels with rope. Tie a knot to the eye hook on the end, string the rope across the barrel to the eye hook next to it on the other side, lace it diagonally to the opposite eye hook, across again, and finally to the last eye hook. Tie a final knot to secure the rope against the barrel. Repeat for the remaining 3 barrels.
1-10. Flip over your partially constructed dock.
1-11. With the help of 1 or 2 other people, carry your dock to the edge of the water and temporarily tie it to something so that it doesn't float away while you finish working on it.
1-12. Make the top deck layer of your dock.
Lay out your 8-foot (2.4 m) long, 1-by-6 pieces, and make sure they sit nicely with a little space between each board. Avoid having ends hanging over the edge. Hammer the boards at both ends into the support layer. It should be stable enough to stand on.
1-13. Push your new dock completely out into the water.
You can adjust how far out in to the water it goes by increasing or decreasing the length of the rope you tied it down with.
Tips
Build a dock on as flat an area as possible to keep it level.
Recruit the help of 1 or 2 people to get your dock into the water.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:32",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Gather all the supplies you will need to build a dock.\\nThe list of items can be found at the bottom of this article in the \\\"Things You'll Need\\\" section.\\n1-2. Visit the area of the water where you plan to build your dock, and bring your supplies with you.\\nGet as close to the water as you can to build it because once it is complete, it will be very heavy and difficult to move.\\n1-3. Make a square with your 8-foot (2.4 m) long 2-by-8 pieces, and screw them together.\\nKeep 2 sides of the square on the inside so that you construct a perfect 8-foot-by-8-foot (2.54-by-2.54 m) square. Place your 4-by-4-inch (10-by-10 cm) pieces inside each corner to ensure 4 perfect right angles. Don't screw in the pieces yet in case you need to make adjustments.\\n1-4. Prepare your barrels.\\nMake sure all plugs are tightened, and apply a layer of silicone caulking over and around the plug to prevent leaks.\\n1-5. Add supports to the basic frame you constructed.\\nMeasure, and find the middle of the square. When you have found the center, place an 8-foot (2.4 m) long 2-by-4 support there.\\n1-6. Place 4 of your pieces parallel to the center support piece.\\nLay a barrel on its side on top of the support pieces. Shift them left or right accordingly until a barrel can sit between 2 boards without touching the ground but still can grip the curve in the barrel. Mark that point, and screw in the 4 boards. Do this for both sides.\\n1-7. Create a perpendicular layer of supports above the layer you just constructed.\\nPlace the barrels on the bottom supports and measure where they end. Place a top layer of 2 of your 8-foot (2.4 m) long 2-by-4 perpendicular supports here. Screw them in securely.\\n1-8. Screw in the 4-by-4-inch (10-by-10 cm) pieces for a more secure hold.\\nAttach L braces at each of the support intersections.\\n1-9. Place eye hooks on the bottom support layer where the barrels sit.\\nPut 2 on each side of each barrel. Lay down all 4 of your barrels between the supports that have eye hooks, and tie down the barrels with rope. Tie a knot to the eye hook on the end, string the rope across the barrel to the eye hook next to it on the other side, lace it diagonally to the opposite eye hook, across again, and finally to the last eye hook. Tie a final knot to secure the rope against the barrel. Repeat for the remaining 3 barrels.\\n1-10. Flip over your partially constructed dock.\\n\\n1-11. With the help of 1 or 2 other people, carry your dock to the edge of the water and temporarily tie it to something so that it doesn't float away while you finish working on it.\\n\\n1-12. Make the top deck layer of your dock.\\nLay out your 8-foot (2.4 m) long, 1-by-6 pieces, and make sure they sit nicely with a little space between each board. Avoid having ends hanging over the edge. Hammer the boards at both ends into the support layer. It should be stable enough to stand on.\\n1-13. Push your new dock completely out into the water.\\nYou can adjust how far out in to the water it goes by increasing or decreasing the length of the rope you tied it down with.\\nTips\\nBuild a dock on as flat an area as possible to keep it level.\\nRecruit the help of 1 or 2 people to get your dock into the water.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a dock to a lake can be an attractive additional as well as a functional one. Once you determine how long you want your dock to be, you can be well on your way to enjoying your customized creation. Constructing a dock yourself can be an overwhelming task, but you can learn how to build a dock step-by-step by carefully following a few steps.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather all the supplies you will need to build a dock.\", \"描述\": \"The list of items can be found at the bottom of this article in the \\\"Things You'll Need\\\" section.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Visit the area of the water where you plan to build your dock, and bring your supplies with you.\", \"描述\": \"Get as close to the water as you can to build it because once it is complete, it will be very heavy and difficult to move.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a square with your 8-foot (2.4 m) long 2-by-8 pieces, and screw them together.\", \"描述\": \"Keep 2 sides of the square on the inside so that you construct a perfect 8-foot-by-8-foot (2.54-by-2.54 m) square. Place your 4-by-4-inch (10-by-10 cm) pieces inside each corner to ensure 4 perfect right angles. Don't screw in the pieces yet in case you need to make adjustments.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Prepare your barrels.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure all plugs are tightened, and apply a layer of silicone caulking over and around the plug to prevent leaks.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add supports to the basic frame you constructed.\", \"描述\": \"Measure, and find the middle of the square. When you have found the center, place an 8-foot (2.4 m) long 2-by-4 support there.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place 4 of your pieces parallel to the center support piece.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a barrel on its side on top of the support pieces. Shift them left or right accordingly until a barrel can sit between 2 boards without touching the ground but still can grip the curve in the barrel. Mark that point, and screw in the 4 boards. Do this for both sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Create a perpendicular layer of supports above the layer you just constructed.\", \"描述\": \"Place the barrels on the bottom supports and measure where they end. Place a top layer of 2 of your 8-foot (2.4 m) long 2-by-4 perpendicular supports here. Screw them in securely.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Screw in the 4-by-4-inch (10-by-10 cm) pieces for a more secure hold.\", \"描述\": \"Attach L braces at each of the support intersections.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place eye hooks on the bottom support layer where the barrels sit.\", \"描述\": \"Put 2 on each side of each barrel. Lay down all 4 of your barrels between the supports that have eye hooks, and tie down the barrels with rope. Tie a knot to the eye hook on the end, string the rope across the barrel to the eye hook next to it on the other side, lace it diagonally to the opposite eye hook, across again, and finally to the last eye hook. Tie a final knot to secure the rope against the barrel. Repeat for the remaining 3 barrels.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Flip over your partially constructed dock.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"With the help of 1 or 2 other people, carry your dock to the edge of the water and temporarily tie it to something so that it doesn't float away while you finish working on it.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Make the top deck layer of your dock.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out your 8-foot (2.4 m) long, 1-by-6 pieces, and make sure they sit nicely with a little space between each board. Avoid having ends hanging over the edge. Hammer the boards at both ends into the support layer. It should be stable enough to stand on.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Push your new dock completely out into the water.\", \"描述\": \"You can adjust how far out in to the water it goes by increasing or decreasing the length of the rope you tied it down with.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Build a dock on as flat an area as possible to keep it level.\\n\", \"Recruit the help of 1 or 2 people to get your dock into the water.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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7,314 |
How to Build a Dog's Confidence
|
1. Teach your dog new tricks.
Reward-based training is a great way to boost confidence.
If your dog has been acting extra shy lately, help them break out of their shell with praise and bonding time. Your furry friend will feel so proud when they master a new trick, and they’ll appreciate the extra belly rubs! Try teaching your pup these confidence-boosting tricks:
Sit
Shake
Roll over
Speak
Spin
Bow
Play dead
2. Feed your dog using puzzle toys.
Puzzle toys can help give your dog a sense of accomplishment.
Like us, dogs get a sense of accomplishment when completing a puzzle, even if they are just in it for the treats. Putting their meals or snacks in a puzzle toy encourages them to experiment and problem solve, boosting their self-confidence and keeping them entertained. You can buy a puzzle toy at your local pet store, online, or even make your own. Check out these DIY puzzle toys you can make in a matter of minutes:
Cut along the seam of a tennis ball using a knife to create a flap. Fill the ball with a few treats, and roll it over to your pup.
Turn a muffin tin upside down and fill the space between the cups with dry food or treats.
3. Train your dog to play “touch.”
Learning touch will help your dog feel more confident in stressful situations.
When a dog’s in an uncomfortable situation, it can be hard for them to focus. The “touch” exercise or game is a great way to help your dog refocus in any situation and feel proud. The praise you give when they’ve successfully done a new trick will boost their spirits and help them feel more confident overall. To teach “touch,” follow these steps:
Place smelly treats in your hands, moving them from one hand to another.
Put a hand without treats in front of your dog about 1 inch (2.5 cm) away from their nose.
Say “yes” and give your dog a treat when they touch their nose to your palm.
Move your hand to a new spot and repeat.
Add the word “touch” to the action once your dog touches your hand 100% of the time.
4. Use positive reinforcement.
Treats and belly rubs go a long when trying to boost your dog’s confidence.
When it comes to dog training, the last thing you want to do is punish or yell at your furry friend, especially when they’re frightened. Rewarding good behavior with something positive like a treat, praise, or toy can help your dog differentiate between right and wrong. Here are some positive reinforcement tips and tricks:
Use short commands like “Yes!” or “Good dog!”
Be consistent by continuing to praise specific behavior.
Reward with small treats to not interrupt regular meal times.
Use an enthusiastic and cheery tone when praising your dog.
5. Find new ways to play with your dog.
Engaging in fun activities can help boost your dog’s confidence over time.
What dog doesn’t like experiencing new things? Exploring different games, tricks, and settings with your furry friend will boost their confidence and strengthen your bond as well! Try doing something your pup loves every day. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Play hide and seek with treats or toys
Give them a cardboard box to play and hide in
Go on a walk
Visit a local park
Host a playdate with other dogs
6. Make your dog a safe place.
Having a special space of their own can help build your dog’s confidence.
Have you ever felt anxious or scared and just wanted to curl under the covers? Dogs feel the same way when they’re frightened. Building a comfortable place your pup can go to when they’re frightened can help them relax while also encouraging them to work through their fears on their own. This can be a dog bed, crate, or even a large pillow.
Your pup can view this small space as their own "territory."
If you travel a lot with you pup, bring their safe place along! This is a great way to keep them comfortable, happy, and confident on a long journey.
Make sure you include plenty of toys in this special place, especially if your dog is a puppy.
7. Have a routine your dog can rely on.
The predictability of structure can build up confidence.
Dogs, especially puppies, thrive on set schedules and routines. If they know what will happen next, they’re less likely to be anxious. If you have a nervous pup, try developing a set routine to ease their nerves and help them be the happiest they can be. Check out this example routine for a puppy:
Take your pup on a walk to go potty.
Give your pup a nutritious breakfast and plenty of water.
Take your pup out one more time before work or school.
Let your pup rest and nap the morning hours away.
Bring your pup on an afternoon walk and take time to play with them.
Allow your pup to nap again.
Feed your pup when you’re eating dinner.
Take your pup on one final potty break and play with them right before bed.
8. Start agility training with your dog.
Conquering an obstacle course is a big confidence boost.
Your pup will feel on top of the world once they’ve mastered the teeter-totter or jumped through a hoop! Agility course training is a great way to spend quality time with your dog and teach them that they can handle anything. You and your pup have to work together, stay focused, and trust each other.
Build a make-shift agility course in your own backyard by using large cardboard boxes as tunnels and hula hoops as a hoop jump.
Find local agility training classes by searching “dog agility training near me” online.
9. Desensitize your dog to triggers.
Expose you dog to something frightening and reward them with a treat.
This technique is called counter conditioning and desensitization, and uses positive reinforcement to build your dog’s confidence and calm anxiety. First, identify your furry friend’s triggers. Once you know what’s triggering their fearful behavior, you can slowly start to expose them to it. Following your dog’s lead and being patient is extremely important. You want to gradually reintroduce a fear with positive reinforcement.
For example, if your pup is afraid of the loud sound of a hair dryer, you can lower the intensity of the trigger by turning the dryer on and off quickly or turning it on in another room.
Distract your pup with a treat when the hair dryer is on.
If you brought the hair dryer into another room, try bringing it into the next closest room to your pup the next day.
10. Recognize when your dog is feeling anxious or scared
It's important to know when your dog is afraid.
Paying close attention to their body language and behavior can help you recognize signs of anxiety and be your pup's advocate. Most dogs will run and hide with their tail between their legs if something frightens them. If they can’t move away from their fear, they may do one or more of the following:
Appear uninterested
Tremble or cower
Yawn or pace
Lunge at other humans or dogs
Growl, whine, or bark
If your dog shows any of these behaviors, don’t push them to face their fear right away. Your furry friend is uncomfortable, and the best thing you can do for them is be positive, kind, and patient.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:32",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Teach your dog new tricks.\\nReward-based training is a great way to boost confidence.\\nIf your dog has been acting extra shy lately, help them break out of their shell with praise and bonding time. Your furry friend will feel so proud when they master a new trick, and they’ll appreciate the extra belly rubs! Try teaching your pup these confidence-boosting tricks:\\nSit\\nShake\\nRoll over\\nSpeak\\nSpin\\nBow\\nPlay dead\\n2. Feed your dog using puzzle toys.\\nPuzzle toys can help give your dog a sense of accomplishment.\\nLike us, dogs get a sense of accomplishment when completing a puzzle, even if they are just in it for the treats. Putting their meals or snacks in a puzzle toy encourages them to experiment and problem solve, boosting their self-confidence and keeping them entertained. You can buy a puzzle toy at your local pet store, online, or even make your own. Check out these DIY puzzle toys you can make in a matter of minutes:\\n\\n Cut along the seam of a tennis ball using a knife to create a flap. Fill the ball with a few treats, and roll it over to your pup.\\n Turn a muffin tin upside down and fill the space between the cups with dry food or treats.\\n3. Train your dog to play “touch.”\\nLearning touch will help your dog feel more confident in stressful situations.\\nWhen a dog’s in an uncomfortable situation, it can be hard for them to focus. The “touch” exercise or game is a great way to help your dog refocus in any situation and feel proud. The praise you give when they’ve successfully done a new trick will boost their spirits and help them feel more confident overall. To teach “touch,” follow these steps:\\nPlace smelly treats in your hands, moving them from one hand to another.\\nPut a hand without treats in front of your dog about 1 inch (2.5 cm) away from their nose.\\nSay “yes” and give your dog a treat when they touch their nose to your palm.\\nMove your hand to a new spot and repeat.\\nAdd the word “touch” to the action once your dog touches your hand 100% of the time.\\n4. Use positive reinforcement.\\nTreats and belly rubs go a long when trying to boost your dog’s confidence.\\nWhen it comes to dog training, the last thing you want to do is punish or yell at your furry friend, especially when they’re frightened. Rewarding good behavior with something positive like a treat, praise, or toy can help your dog differentiate between right and wrong. Here are some positive reinforcement tips and tricks:\\nUse short commands like “Yes!” or “Good dog!”\\nBe consistent by continuing to praise specific behavior.\\nReward with small treats to not interrupt regular meal times.\\nUse an enthusiastic and cheery tone when praising your dog.\\n5. Find new ways to play with your dog.\\nEngaging in fun activities can help boost your dog’s confidence over time.\\nWhat dog doesn’t like experiencing new things? Exploring different games, tricks, and settings with your furry friend will boost their confidence and strengthen your bond as well! Try doing something your pup loves every day. Here are some ideas to get you started:\\nPlay hide and seek with treats or toys\\nGive them a cardboard box to play and hide in\\nGo on a walk\\nVisit a local park\\nHost a playdate with other dogs\\n6. Make your dog a safe place.\\nHaving a special space of their own can help build your dog’s confidence.\\nHave you ever felt anxious or scared and just wanted to curl under the covers? Dogs feel the same way when they’re frightened. Building a comfortable place your pup can go to when they’re frightened can help them relax while also encouraging them to work through their fears on their own. This can be a dog bed, crate, or even a large pillow.\\nYour pup can view this small space as their own \\\"territory.\\\"\\nIf you travel a lot with you pup, bring their safe place along! This is a great way to keep them comfortable, happy, and confident on a long journey.\\nMake sure you include plenty of toys in this special place, especially if your dog is a puppy.\\n7. Have a routine your dog can rely on.\\nThe predictability of structure can build up confidence.\\nDogs, especially puppies, thrive on set schedules and routines. If they know what will happen next, they’re less likely to be anxious. If you have a nervous pup, try developing a set routine to ease their nerves and help them be the happiest they can be. Check out this example routine for a puppy:\\n\\n Take your pup on a walk to go potty.\\n Give your pup a nutritious breakfast and plenty of water.\\n Take your pup out one more time before work or school.\\n Let your pup rest and nap the morning hours away.\\n Bring your pup on an afternoon walk and take time to play with them.\\n Allow your pup to nap again.\\n Feed your pup when you’re eating dinner.\\n Take your pup on one final potty break and play with them right before bed.\\n8. Start agility training with your dog.\\nConquering an obstacle course is a big confidence boost.\\nYour pup will feel on top of the world once they’ve mastered the teeter-totter or jumped through a hoop! Agility course training is a great way to spend quality time with your dog and teach them that they can handle anything. You and your pup have to work together, stay focused, and trust each other.\\n\\nBuild a make-shift agility course in your own backyard by using large cardboard boxes as tunnels and hula hoops as a hoop jump.\\nFind local agility training classes by searching “dog agility training near me” online.\\n9. Desensitize your dog to triggers.\\nExpose you dog to something frightening and reward them with a treat.\\nThis technique is called counter conditioning and desensitization, and uses positive reinforcement to build your dog’s confidence and calm anxiety. First, identify your furry friend’s triggers. Once you know what’s triggering their fearful behavior, you can slowly start to expose them to it. Following your dog’s lead and being patient is extremely important. You want to gradually reintroduce a fear with positive reinforcement.\\nFor example, if your pup is afraid of the loud sound of a hair dryer, you can lower the intensity of the trigger by turning the dryer on and off quickly or turning it on in another room.\\nDistract your pup with a treat when the hair dryer is on.\\nIf you brought the hair dryer into another room, try bringing it into the next closest room to your pup the next day.\\n10. Recognize when your dog is feeling anxious or scared\\nIt's important to know when your dog is afraid.\\nPaying close attention to their body language and behavior can help you recognize signs of anxiety and be your pup's advocate. Most dogs will run and hide with their tail between their legs if something frightens them. If they can’t move away from their fear, they may do one or more of the following:\\nAppear uninterested\\nTremble or cower\\nYawn or pace\\nLunge at other humans or dogs\\nGrowl, whine, or bark\\nIf your dog shows any of these behaviors, don’t push them to face their fear right away. Your furry friend is uncomfortable, and the best thing you can do for them is be positive, kind, and patient.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Dogs have fears just like us. Some dogs can be shyer than others, but with a bit of training and lots of love, you can help them build their confidence! We’ve put together a list of ways to ease your furry friend’s anxieties and expose them to new situations. So, grab your pup’s favorite treats and keep reading to learn how you can build your dog’s confidence.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Teach your dog new tricks.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Reward-based training is a great way to boost confidence.\", \"描述\": \"If your dog has been acting extra shy lately, help them break out of their shell with praise and bonding time. Your furry friend will feel so proud when they master a new trick, and they’ll appreciate the extra belly rubs! Try teaching your pup these confidence-boosting tricks:\\nSit\\nShake\\nRoll over\\nSpeak\\nSpin\\nBow\\nPlay dead\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Feed your dog using puzzle toys.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Puzzle toys can help give your dog a sense of accomplishment.\", \"描述\": \"Like us, dogs get a sense of accomplishment when completing a puzzle, even if they are just in it for the treats. Putting their meals or snacks in a puzzle toy encourages them to experiment and problem solve, boosting their self-confidence and keeping them entertained. You can buy a puzzle toy at your local pet store, online, or even make your own. Check out these DIY puzzle toys you can make in a matter of minutes:\\n\\n Cut along the seam of a tennis ball using a knife to create a flap. Fill the ball with a few treats, and roll it over to your pup.\\n Turn a muffin tin upside down and fill the space between the cups with dry food or treats.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Train your dog to play “touch.”\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Learning touch will help your dog feel more confident in stressful situations.\", \"描述\": \"When a dog’s in an uncomfortable situation, it can be hard for them to focus. The “touch” exercise or game is a great way to help your dog refocus in any situation and feel proud. The praise you give when they’ve successfully done a new trick will boost their spirits and help them feel more confident overall. To teach “touch,” follow these steps:\\nPlace smelly treats in your hands, moving them from one hand to another.\\nPut a hand without treats in front of your dog about 1 inch (2.5 cm) away from their nose.\\nSay “yes” and give your dog a treat when they touch their nose to your palm.\\nMove your hand to a new spot and repeat.\\nAdd the word “touch” to the action once your dog touches your hand 100% of the time.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use positive reinforcement.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Treats and belly rubs go a long when trying to boost your dog’s confidence.\", \"描述\": \"When it comes to dog training, the last thing you want to do is punish or yell at your furry friend, especially when they’re frightened. Rewarding good behavior with something positive like a treat, praise, or toy can help your dog differentiate between right and wrong. Here are some positive reinforcement tips and tricks:\\nUse short commands like “Yes!” or “Good dog!”\\nBe consistent by continuing to praise specific behavior.\\nReward with small treats to not interrupt regular meal times.\\nUse an enthusiastic and cheery tone when praising your dog.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Find new ways to play with your dog.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Engaging in fun activities can help boost your dog’s confidence over time.\", \"描述\": \"What dog doesn’t like experiencing new things? Exploring different games, tricks, and settings with your furry friend will boost their confidence and strengthen your bond as well! Try doing something your pup loves every day. Here are some ideas to get you started:\\nPlay hide and seek with treats or toys\\nGive them a cardboard box to play and hide in\\nGo on a walk\\nVisit a local park\\nHost a playdate with other dogs\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make your dog a safe place.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Having a special space of their own can help build your dog’s confidence.\", \"描述\": \"Have you ever felt anxious or scared and just wanted to curl under the covers? Dogs feel the same way when they’re frightened. Building a comfortable place your pup can go to when they’re frightened can help them relax while also encouraging them to work through their fears on their own. This can be a dog bed, crate, or even a large pillow.\\nYour pup can view this small space as their own \\\"territory.\\\"\\nIf you travel a lot with you pup, bring their safe place along! This is a great way to keep them comfortable, happy, and confident on a long journey.\\nMake sure you include plenty of toys in this special place, especially if your dog is a puppy.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Have a routine your dog can rely on.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"The predictability of structure can build up confidence.\", \"描述\": \"Dogs, especially puppies, thrive on set schedules and routines. If they know what will happen next, they’re less likely to be anxious. If you have a nervous pup, try developing a set routine to ease their nerves and help them be the happiest they can be. Check out this example routine for a puppy:\\n\\n Take your pup on a walk to go potty.\\n Give your pup a nutritious breakfast and plenty of water.\\n Take your pup out one more time before work or school.\\n Let your pup rest and nap the morning hours away.\\n Bring your pup on an afternoon walk and take time to play with them.\\n Allow your pup to nap again.\\n Feed your pup when you’re eating dinner.\\n Take your pup on one final potty break and play with them right before bed.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Start agility training with your dog.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Conquering an obstacle course is a big confidence boost.\", \"描述\": \"Your pup will feel on top of the world once they’ve mastered the teeter-totter or jumped through a hoop! Agility course training is a great way to spend quality time with your dog and teach them that they can handle anything. You and your pup have to work together, stay focused, and trust each other.\\n\\nBuild a make-shift agility course in your own backyard by using large cardboard boxes as tunnels and hula hoops as a hoop jump.\\nFind local agility training classes by searching “dog agility training near me” online.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Desensitize your dog to triggers.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Expose you dog to something frightening and reward them with a treat.\", \"描述\": \"This technique is called counter conditioning and desensitization, and uses positive reinforcement to build your dog’s confidence and calm anxiety. First, identify your furry friend’s triggers. Once you know what’s triggering their fearful behavior, you can slowly start to expose them to it. Following your dog’s lead and being patient is extremely important. You want to gradually reintroduce a fear with positive reinforcement.\\nFor example, if your pup is afraid of the loud sound of a hair dryer, you can lower the intensity of the trigger by turning the dryer on and off quickly or turning it on in another room.\\nDistract your pup with a treat when the hair dryer is on.\\nIf you brought the hair dryer into another room, try bringing it into the next closest room to your pup the next day.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Recognize when your dog is feeling anxious or scared\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It's important to know when your dog is afraid.\", \"描述\": \"Paying close attention to their body language and behavior can help you recognize signs of anxiety and be your pup's advocate. Most dogs will run and hide with their tail between their legs if something frightens them. If they can’t move away from their fear, they may do one or more of the following:\\nAppear uninterested\\nTremble or cower\\nYawn or pace\\nLunge at other humans or dogs\\nGrowl, whine, or bark\\nIf your dog shows any of these behaviors, don’t push them to face their fear right away. Your furry friend is uncomfortable, and the best thing you can do for them is be positive, kind, and patient.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,315 |
How to Build a Dog's Muscles
|
1. Building Muscle with Exercise
1-1. Do pulling activities to build muscle.
If your dog likes to play tug-o-war or to pull heavy items around your yard, you can use that inclination to help build its muscles. By encouraging these types of pulling activities, you are forcing the dog to use their muscles in a way that is similar to weight training.
If you want to do focused conditioning and training, you can even get a weight pulling harness made specifically for dogs. These harnesses are made to distribute the weight evenly over the dog’s body so that it doesn’t get injured.
To encourage your dog to play tug-o-war even while you are not around, make a spring pole. This is a rope tied to a tree or other high, sturdy structure that has a toy tied to the end of it.
1-2. Give your dog opportunities to swim.
Swimming is an excellent, non-weight bearing exercise for dogs that is both aerobic and muscle building. This makes it perfect for dogs with arthritis or sore joints, and these dogs benefit from extra muscle around their joints since it helps to support them. It also gives a better workout for the dog’s front legs than walking or running, so it’s great for building those muscles.
For example, a 10-minute swim uses as much energy as an hour-long walk.
Keep an eye on your dog while it is swimming. This is especially important if the dog is tired out, as there is a risk that it might have trouble keeping its head above the water.
1-3. Do strength exercises 3 times a week.
In order for your dog to gain muscle mass, it needs to have proper rest periods between workouts. Give your dog a day between highly exhausting activities, such as long swims, so that the muscles can recover and get ready for the next round of exercise.
If you exercise your dog too much, you could exhaust it or cause damage to its muscles.
Look for dog classes that where you can spend time exercising with your pup off-leash.
2. Increasing Muscle Mass with Diet
2-1. Feed your dog well-balanced food that has few filler ingredients.
Talk to your vet about how to give your dog a healthy diet. Ask them what to food your dog, how much, and how often. Then, choose a food that meets the nutritional levels listed in the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles.
Your dog's nutritional needs can vary depending on a lot of factors, which is why it's so important to get personalized advice from your vet.
2-2. Give your dog a food that contains high-quality proteins.
When picking out a dog food, make sure the animal proteins included are not all called “byproducts.” Look at the label of your food and ensure that the top three protein ingredients are whole proteins. For example, they should be labeled simply as poultry, beef, or another common protein source.
Byproducts are typically the extra pieces off of animals that processors can't sell after an animal is butchered. Some byproducts are perfectly fine food for dogs, such as organs that people don't eat a lot of but are full of nutrients. However, you won't know exactly what your dog is getting from the label "byproduct" and the ingredient may not have the protein content that you want in your dog's food.
Also focus on giving high-protein treats to your dog. You can purchase packaged treats from your local pet store or you can give simple treats of foods you have at home, such as small pieces of cooked chicken or beef.
If your dog has a medical condition that makes eating a lot of protein a bad idea, consult with your veterinarian about what foods are best for it while you are trying to get it to put on muscle mass. For example, dogs with kidney or liver issues shouldn’t eat a lot of protein.
2-3. Increase the amount of fat your dog eats if it is getting a lot of exercise.
Dogs need extra energy when they are doing a lot of activity, and fat is actually the best fuel for them to burn. Focus on giving your dog food that says it’s high in omega-3 fatty acids on its label. This type of fat causes less inflammation in a dog than other types of fats, such as omega-6 fatty acids.
In addition, there are a variety of commercially produced high-fat treats available at most pet stores. You can give your dog treats of high-fat foods you have at home, such as peanut butter.
Fat is better than giving them extra carbohydrates, which would require them to eat lots of extra food and which can cause joint problems and inflammation.
Be aware that some dogs are more susceptible to pancreatitis, and high-fat foods can trigger this. Avoid giving high-fat foods to high-risk breeds, such as Boxer and Miniature Schnauzers, and to any dog that has had a previous episode of pancreatitis.
2-4. Don’t give your dog muscle building supplements made for humans.
Dogs’ bodies process nutrients differently than other animals, including humans. This means that you shouldn’t give your dog collagen or other supplements that are made for muscles building in humans.
2-5. Consult your vet about changes you want to make to your dog’s diet.
When trying to perfect your dog’s diet in order to increase the animals muscle mass, it’s important to consult a veterinarian before making any changes. They will be able to tell you whether the food you want to give will get the results you want and if it will fulfill your dog’s general nutritional needs at the same time.
There are some veterinarians that specialize in animal nutrition. Consult with this type of vet if you have specific questions that your general vet can’t answer.
3. Building Muscle After a Period of Enforced Rest
3-1. Talk with your dog’s veterinarian before taking your dog off rest.
Make sure to follow your veterinarian’s recommendations for a period of enforced rest. Do not take your dog off of rest until they tell you it is okay to do so. When you do take your dog off of rest, make sure to follow your veterinarian’s suggestions for how to ease your dog back into exercise.
3-2. Start with a small amount of daily gentle exercise.
If your dog recently had a period of enforced rest due to surgery or arthritis, it will need to ease back into exercise. Start by taking your dog on short walks around your neighborhood, such as a 5 minute walk 2 times daily. Encourage your dog to walk slowly and take breaks, such as by walking slowly yourself and stopping every few blocks or after a few minutes of walking.
Pay attention to how your dog behaves during the walk. If it limps, pants, or seems tired or uncomfortable, you may want to end the walk.
3-3. Warm up your dog at the beginning of each exercise session.
Moving your dog’s limbs using passive range of motion exercises (PROM) is a great way to warm up your dog’s muscles and reduce the chances of injury during its exercise sessions.
For example, with your dog laying on its side, slowly and gently bend and flex each of its joints starting at its toes and moving toward its hip and arm joints.
Ask your dog's veterinarian what PROM exercises might be helpful for your dog.
3-4. Increase the length of your dog’s walks gradually.
Don’t allow your dog to jump straight from zero activity to 30 minutes or more of daily exercise. Start small and increase the daily total in 5 minute increments over a period of weeks.
For example, if your dog starts walking for 5 minutes 2 times daily in week 1, then bump it up to 10 minutes twice daily in week 2, then 15 minutes twice daily in week 3.
Make sure to ask your dog’s vet if you are unsure about how quickly to increase your dog’s activity level.
3-5. Incorporate hills into your dog’s walks for resistance training.
Once your dog has worked up to walking longer distances without a problem, adding a few hills into your walking route can help to increase its strength.
For example, you could start with just 1 small hill and add a little more each week until your dog can walk up hills without a problem.
3-6. Consult with a veterinary physiotherapist to build a routine for your dog.
If you are unsure what exercises may be appropriate for your dog following a period of enforced rest, talk with your veterinarian. They can advise you and refer you to a veterinary physiotherapist who can work with your dog.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:32",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building Muscle with Exercise\\n1-1. Do pulling activities to build muscle.\\nIf your dog likes to play tug-o-war or to pull heavy items around your yard, you can use that inclination to help build its muscles. By encouraging these types of pulling activities, you are forcing the dog to use their muscles in a way that is similar to weight training. \\nIf you want to do focused conditioning and training, you can even get a weight pulling harness made specifically for dogs. These harnesses are made to distribute the weight evenly over the dog’s body so that it doesn’t get injured.\\nTo encourage your dog to play tug-o-war even while you are not around, make a spring pole. This is a rope tied to a tree or other high, sturdy structure that has a toy tied to the end of it.\\n1-2. Give your dog opportunities to swim.\\nSwimming is an excellent, non-weight bearing exercise for dogs that is both aerobic and muscle building. This makes it perfect for dogs with arthritis or sore joints, and these dogs benefit from extra muscle around their joints since it helps to support them. It also gives a better workout for the dog’s front legs than walking or running, so it’s great for building those muscles. \\nFor example, a 10-minute swim uses as much energy as an hour-long walk.\\nKeep an eye on your dog while it is swimming. This is especially important if the dog is tired out, as there is a risk that it might have trouble keeping its head above the water.\\n1-3. Do strength exercises 3 times a week.\\nIn order for your dog to gain muscle mass, it needs to have proper rest periods between workouts. Give your dog a day between highly exhausting activities, such as long swims, so that the muscles can recover and get ready for the next round of exercise. \\nIf you exercise your dog too much, you could exhaust it or cause damage to its muscles.\\nLook for dog classes that where you can spend time exercising with your pup off-leash.\\n2. Increasing Muscle Mass with Diet\\n2-1. Feed your dog well-balanced food that has few filler ingredients.\\nTalk to your vet about how to give your dog a healthy diet. Ask them what to food your dog, how much, and how often. Then, choose a food that meets the nutritional levels listed in the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles.\\nYour dog's nutritional needs can vary depending on a lot of factors, which is why it's so important to get personalized advice from your vet.\\n2-2. Give your dog a food that contains high-quality proteins.\\nWhen picking out a dog food, make sure the animal proteins included are not all called “byproducts.” Look at the label of your food and ensure that the top three protein ingredients are whole proteins. For example, they should be labeled simply as poultry, beef, or another common protein source.\\nByproducts are typically the extra pieces off of animals that processors can't sell after an animal is butchered. Some byproducts are perfectly fine food for dogs, such as organs that people don't eat a lot of but are full of nutrients. However, you won't know exactly what your dog is getting from the label \\\"byproduct\\\" and the ingredient may not have the protein content that you want in your dog's food.\\nAlso focus on giving high-protein treats to your dog. You can purchase packaged treats from your local pet store or you can give simple treats of foods you have at home, such as small pieces of cooked chicken or beef.\\nIf your dog has a medical condition that makes eating a lot of protein a bad idea, consult with your veterinarian about what foods are best for it while you are trying to get it to put on muscle mass. For example, dogs with kidney or liver issues shouldn’t eat a lot of protein.\\n2-3. Increase the amount of fat your dog eats if it is getting a lot of exercise.\\nDogs need extra energy when they are doing a lot of activity, and fat is actually the best fuel for them to burn. Focus on giving your dog food that says it’s high in omega-3 fatty acids on its label. This type of fat causes less inflammation in a dog than other types of fats, such as omega-6 fatty acids. \\nIn addition, there are a variety of commercially produced high-fat treats available at most pet stores. You can give your dog treats of high-fat foods you have at home, such as peanut butter.\\nFat is better than giving them extra carbohydrates, which would require them to eat lots of extra food and which can cause joint problems and inflammation.\\nBe aware that some dogs are more susceptible to pancreatitis, and high-fat foods can trigger this. Avoid giving high-fat foods to high-risk breeds, such as Boxer and Miniature Schnauzers, and to any dog that has had a previous episode of pancreatitis.\\n2-4. Don’t give your dog muscle building supplements made for humans.\\nDogs’ bodies process nutrients differently than other animals, including humans. This means that you shouldn’t give your dog collagen or other supplements that are made for muscles building in humans.\\n2-5. Consult your vet about changes you want to make to your dog’s diet.\\nWhen trying to perfect your dog’s diet in order to increase the animals muscle mass, it’s important to consult a veterinarian before making any changes. They will be able to tell you whether the food you want to give will get the results you want and if it will fulfill your dog’s general nutritional needs at the same time.\\nThere are some veterinarians that specialize in animal nutrition. Consult with this type of vet if you have specific questions that your general vet can’t answer.\\n3. Building Muscle After a Period of Enforced Rest\\n3-1. Talk with your dog’s veterinarian before taking your dog off rest.\\nMake sure to follow your veterinarian’s recommendations for a period of enforced rest. Do not take your dog off of rest until they tell you it is okay to do so. When you do take your dog off of rest, make sure to follow your veterinarian’s suggestions for how to ease your dog back into exercise.\\n3-2. Start with a small amount of daily gentle exercise.\\nIf your dog recently had a period of enforced rest due to surgery or arthritis, it will need to ease back into exercise. Start by taking your dog on short walks around your neighborhood, such as a 5 minute walk 2 times daily. Encourage your dog to walk slowly and take breaks, such as by walking slowly yourself and stopping every few blocks or after a few minutes of walking.\\nPay attention to how your dog behaves during the walk. If it limps, pants, or seems tired or uncomfortable, you may want to end the walk.\\n3-3. Warm up your dog at the beginning of each exercise session.\\nMoving your dog’s limbs using passive range of motion exercises (PROM) is a great way to warm up your dog’s muscles and reduce the chances of injury during its exercise sessions.\\nFor example, with your dog laying on its side, slowly and gently bend and flex each of its joints starting at its toes and moving toward its hip and arm joints.\\nAsk your dog's veterinarian what PROM exercises might be helpful for your dog.\\n3-4. Increase the length of your dog’s walks gradually.\\nDon’t allow your dog to jump straight from zero activity to 30 minutes or more of daily exercise. Start small and increase the daily total in 5 minute increments over a period of weeks.\\nFor example, if your dog starts walking for 5 minutes 2 times daily in week 1, then bump it up to 10 minutes twice daily in week 2, then 15 minutes twice daily in week 3.\\nMake sure to ask your dog’s vet if you are unsure about how quickly to increase your dog’s activity level.\\n3-5. Incorporate hills into your dog’s walks for resistance training.\\nOnce your dog has worked up to walking longer distances without a problem, adding a few hills into your walking route can help to increase its strength.\\nFor example, you could start with just 1 small hill and add a little more each week until your dog can walk up hills without a problem.\\n3-6. Consult with a veterinary physiotherapist to build a routine for your dog.\\nIf you are unsure what exercises may be appropriate for your dog following a period of enforced rest, talk with your veterinarian. They can advise you and refer you to a veterinary physiotherapist who can work with your dog.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"There are a variety of reasons you might want your dog to gain muscle. For instance, it’s important to condition a dog that is going to work as a hunting or sporting dog before putting a lot of physical demands on it. Another situation when you might want your dog to gain muscle is if it is recovering from an injury and needs to build back up its strength. Whatever the underlying reason, there are effective, safe ways that you can help your dog to build muscle.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building Muscle with Exercise\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Do pulling activities to build muscle.\", \"描述\": \"If your dog likes to play tug-o-war or to pull heavy items around your yard, you can use that inclination to help build its muscles. By encouraging these types of pulling activities, you are forcing the dog to use their muscles in a way that is similar to weight training. \\nIf you want to do focused conditioning and training, you can even get a weight pulling harness made specifically for dogs. These harnesses are made to distribute the weight evenly over the dog’s body so that it doesn’t get injured.\\nTo encourage your dog to play tug-o-war even while you are not around, make a spring pole. This is a rope tied to a tree or other high, sturdy structure that has a toy tied to the end of it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Give your dog opportunities to swim.\", \"描述\": \"Swimming is an excellent, non-weight bearing exercise for dogs that is both aerobic and muscle building. This makes it perfect for dogs with arthritis or sore joints, and these dogs benefit from extra muscle around their joints since it helps to support them. It also gives a better workout for the dog’s front legs than walking or running, so it’s great for building those muscles. \\nFor example, a 10-minute swim uses as much energy as an hour-long walk.\\nKeep an eye on your dog while it is swimming. This is especially important if the dog is tired out, as there is a risk that it might have trouble keeping its head above the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Do strength exercises 3 times a week.\", \"描述\": \"In order for your dog to gain muscle mass, it needs to have proper rest periods between workouts. Give your dog a day between highly exhausting activities, such as long swims, so that the muscles can recover and get ready for the next round of exercise. \\nIf you exercise your dog too much, you could exhaust it or cause damage to its muscles.\\nLook for dog classes that where you can spend time exercising with your pup off-leash.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Increasing Muscle Mass with Diet\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed your dog well-balanced food that has few filler ingredients.\", \"描述\": \"Talk to your vet about how to give your dog a healthy diet. Ask them what to food your dog, how much, and how often. Then, choose a food that meets the nutritional levels listed in the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles.\\nYour dog's nutritional needs can vary depending on a lot of factors, which is why it's so important to get personalized advice from your vet.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Give your dog a food that contains high-quality proteins.\", \"描述\": \"When picking out a dog food, make sure the animal proteins included are not all called “byproducts.” Look at the label of your food and ensure that the top three protein ingredients are whole proteins. For example, they should be labeled simply as poultry, beef, or another common protein source.\\nByproducts are typically the extra pieces off of animals that processors can't sell after an animal is butchered. Some byproducts are perfectly fine food for dogs, such as organs that people don't eat a lot of but are full of nutrients. However, you won't know exactly what your dog is getting from the label \\\"byproduct\\\" and the ingredient may not have the protein content that you want in your dog's food.\\nAlso focus on giving high-protein treats to your dog. You can purchase packaged treats from your local pet store or you can give simple treats of foods you have at home, such as small pieces of cooked chicken or beef.\\nIf your dog has a medical condition that makes eating a lot of protein a bad idea, consult with your veterinarian about what foods are best for it while you are trying to get it to put on muscle mass. For example, dogs with kidney or liver issues shouldn’t eat a lot of protein.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Increase the amount of fat your dog eats if it is getting a lot of exercise.\", \"描述\": \"Dogs need extra energy when they are doing a lot of activity, and fat is actually the best fuel for them to burn. Focus on giving your dog food that says it’s high in omega-3 fatty acids on its label. This type of fat causes less inflammation in a dog than other types of fats, such as omega-6 fatty acids. \\nIn addition, there are a variety of commercially produced high-fat treats available at most pet stores. You can give your dog treats of high-fat foods you have at home, such as peanut butter.\\nFat is better than giving them extra carbohydrates, which would require them to eat lots of extra food and which can cause joint problems and inflammation.\\nBe aware that some dogs are more susceptible to pancreatitis, and high-fat foods can trigger this. Avoid giving high-fat foods to high-risk breeds, such as Boxer and Miniature Schnauzers, and to any dog that has had a previous episode of pancreatitis.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Don’t give your dog muscle building supplements made for humans.\", \"描述\": \"Dogs’ bodies process nutrients differently than other animals, including humans. This means that you shouldn’t give your dog collagen or other supplements that are made for muscles building in humans.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consult your vet about changes you want to make to your dog’s diet.\", \"描述\": \"When trying to perfect your dog’s diet in order to increase the animals muscle mass, it’s important to consult a veterinarian before making any changes. They will be able to tell you whether the food you want to give will get the results you want and if it will fulfill your dog’s general nutritional needs at the same time.\\nThere are some veterinarians that specialize in animal nutrition. Consult with this type of vet if you have specific questions that your general vet can’t answer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building Muscle After a Period of Enforced Rest\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Talk with your dog’s veterinarian before taking your dog off rest.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to follow your veterinarian’s recommendations for a period of enforced rest. Do not take your dog off of rest until they tell you it is okay to do so. When you do take your dog off of rest, make sure to follow your veterinarian’s suggestions for how to ease your dog back into exercise.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start with a small amount of daily gentle exercise.\", \"描述\": \"If your dog recently had a period of enforced rest due to surgery or arthritis, it will need to ease back into exercise. Start by taking your dog on short walks around your neighborhood, such as a 5 minute walk 2 times daily. Encourage your dog to walk slowly and take breaks, such as by walking slowly yourself and stopping every few blocks or after a few minutes of walking.\\nPay attention to how your dog behaves during the walk. If it limps, pants, or seems tired or uncomfortable, you may want to end the walk.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Warm up your dog at the beginning of each exercise session.\", \"描述\": \"Moving your dog’s limbs using passive range of motion exercises (PROM) is a great way to warm up your dog’s muscles and reduce the chances of injury during its exercise sessions.\\nFor example, with your dog laying on its side, slowly and gently bend and flex each of its joints starting at its toes and moving toward its hip and arm joints.\\nAsk your dog's veterinarian what PROM exercises might be helpful for your dog.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Increase the length of your dog’s walks gradually.\", \"描述\": \"Don’t allow your dog to jump straight from zero activity to 30 minutes or more of daily exercise. Start small and increase the daily total in 5 minute increments over a period of weeks.\\nFor example, if your dog starts walking for 5 minutes 2 times daily in week 1, then bump it up to 10 minutes twice daily in week 2, then 15 minutes twice daily in week 3.\\nMake sure to ask your dog’s vet if you are unsure about how quickly to increase your dog’s activity level.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Incorporate hills into your dog’s walks for resistance training.\", \"描述\": \"Once your dog has worked up to walking longer distances without a problem, adding a few hills into your walking route can help to increase its strength.\\nFor example, you could start with just 1 small hill and add a little more each week until your dog can walk up hills without a problem.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Consult with a veterinary physiotherapist to build a routine for your dog.\", \"描述\": \"If you are unsure what exercises may be appropriate for your dog following a period of enforced rest, talk with your veterinarian. They can advise you and refer you to a veterinary physiotherapist who can work with your dog.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,316 |
How to Build a Dog Agility Course
|
1. Planning Your Agility Course
1-1. Evaluate your dog’s capability.
As you start thinking about what obstacles you want to set up in your course, consider your dog’s capability. Make sure plan obstacles that are appropriate for your dog’s size. A corgi, for example, could not get through a tire jump meant for a German shepherd.
Also consider any limited ability your dog has. If your dog has back problems, for example, they may be able to easily get up and down an A-frame, but may not be able to complete a weave pole exercise.
Do not try to force a dog beyond its ability. Some dogs may not be able to do certain obstacles, and all dogs will have to train up from easier to more challenging courses.
1-2. Build contact obstacles.
Contact obstacles typically include A-frames and see-saws. A-frames have your dog run up one side and immediately down the other of a wooden, A-shaped obstacle.
It is generally easier and safer for your pet to purchase a ready-built contact obstacles, but you can make your own A-frame from wood or aluminum. Instructions can be found online.
For see-saw obstacles, you may buy a purpose-built agility see-saw or you can use one meant for toddlers or small children.
1-3. Plan a tire jump.
Tire jumps are easily adjustable if you have different sized dogs, and are typically found in many competitive agility courses. These are tires suspended by ropes to a wooden frame.
According to USDAA regulations, tire jumps must have an interior opening of 20 inches (50.8 cm), and the tire itself must have a 4 inch (10.16 cm) wall.
Tire jumps are generally purchased whole from agility equipment retailers, as while you can build one yourself, professionally manufactured jumps tend to be more secure and less likely to hurt your pet if they miss the jump.
Setting up tire jumps is generally a simple process that at most involves you connecting the tire to the suspending agents, but more often just involves placing the frame.
1-4. Plan your weave poles.
Weave poles are a set of narrow plastic poles set closely together so that your dog can quickly weave their body between each pole. Each course should have five to twelve poles with approximately two feet (0.6 meters) between each pole.
Weave poles should be sturdy enough that they can withstand your dog running in between them, but not so sturdy that they won't bend or fall if your dog does not weave perfectly.
Weave poles should not be driven far into the ground, as this cause them to become more rigid and subsequently poses an increased risk of injury for your dog.
You can make your own weave poles by setting one inch (2.5 cm) diameter PVC pipe in along a pipe base. Use tee pipe connectors to join the upright poles to the base.
You can also purchase safe and sturdy weave poles from a manufacturer.
1-5. Lay out tunnels.
Tunnels are generally of fabric, and may have a curve or bend, or may be straight. Tunnels can easily be improvised using children's play tunnels, and can be used as an indoor our outdoor training obstacle.
If you are training for competition, your dog will need to know how to navigate a pipe tunnel, which is usually straight, and a collapsible tunnel, which may have a curve.
Play tunnels can be used to train for both types of tunnel obstacles. Simply reconfigure the tunnel to be straight or to have a bend.
1-6. Create a few layouts.
There is no one setup for an agility course. Different courses will have different obstacles at different points. Create a few layouts so that you can change up your course and keep your dog stimulated during training.
Try not to put like obstacles next to one another. For example, do not put a see-saw after an A-frame. Create variation to help your pet get the most from the course.
2. Setting Up Your Course
2-1. Decide if you want to DIY.
You can create your course either by buying purpose-built obstacles or by making your own. Take a look into the investment of purchasing new equipment and the time commitment and knowledge necessary to build your own and decide what is right for you.
You can use a variety of objects to create obstacles for your dog to work with, including broomsticks, PVC pipes, ramps, and more.
If you do not have much experience building or fixing things, a dog agility course might not be the best place to start. Lack of experience may lead to unsafe features in your course that could cause harm to your dog.
If you are considering purchasing equipment, look for agility training kits that allow you to bundle obstacles. The right package could help save money when compared to buying pieces individually.
If you choose to build your own obstacles, look up instructions for specific obstacles meant to fit your dog’s size. Follow their instructions, measurements, and plans closely.
2-2. Clear the space.
Make sure you clear the space for your course before you begin putting it up. Remove any obstructions such as sticks, rocks, bowls, and other play equipment. Also be sure to clear out distractions such as treats and toys unless they are specifically to be used during the training.
Be sure that the space is mostly level. The obstacles associated with an agility course can be disorienting and potentially harmful if on uneven surfaces.
2-3. Put up the obstacles.
Once you have your obstacles, set up one of your course designs so that you and your dog can start training. Remember to safety check each obstacle before you let your dog on the course. Make sure nothing shifts or moves while your dog is on it.
Make sure bars like those on hurdles can easily be knocked off so that your dog does not run into a hard object while training.
Check to make sure that your dog can comfortably fit through any tunnels before guiding them into one.
3. Introducing the Course to Your Dog
3-1. Let your dog explore.
Before you ever start training, let your dog explore the course. Unleash them in the area of the course and allow them to sniff around and familiarize themselves with the equipment. Familiarizing early on helps your dog feel more comfortable on the course when training.
If your dog seems curious about the equipment, help them explore obstacles such as tunnels and see-saws. Gently guide your dog through with your hands or with verbal encouragement.
3-2. Take your dog on a walkthrough.
Once you have introduced the course to your dog, take them on a walkthrough so that they can start to understand each obstacle. Help guide them up and down contact obstacles and over jumps.
Use vocal commands, treats, and gentle touch to help guide your dog through the course the first time.
Be sure to help your dog stabilize on obstacles such as the see-saw. Use your hands to help them keep from coming down too fast or sliding off the obstacle.
3-3. Begin training.
Once your dog is comfortable with the course, you are ready to start your agility training. If you have never practiced agility training with your dog before, practice handling and commands on the ground before you work your way to the obstacles.
Start with more obvious obstacles such as using cones for weave poles until your dog is ready to handle the more narrow poles.
Take your dog to agility training classes or training groups to help both you and your pet get the most from your new hobby.
Tips
Don't force your dog to do things they are afraid of.
Toddlers items, such as slides and see-saws, can work well for a home agility course..
If your dog is panting but wont drink water, give him/her some time to rest. Like others said, don't push your dog!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:32",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Agility Course\\n1-1. Evaluate your dog’s capability.\\nAs you start thinking about what obstacles you want to set up in your course, consider your dog’s capability. Make sure plan obstacles that are appropriate for your dog’s size. A corgi, for example, could not get through a tire jump meant for a German shepherd.\\nAlso consider any limited ability your dog has. If your dog has back problems, for example, they may be able to easily get up and down an A-frame, but may not be able to complete a weave pole exercise.\\nDo not try to force a dog beyond its ability. Some dogs may not be able to do certain obstacles, and all dogs will have to train up from easier to more challenging courses.\\n1-2. Build contact obstacles.\\nContact obstacles typically include A-frames and see-saws. A-frames have your dog run up one side and immediately down the other of a wooden, A-shaped obstacle.\\nIt is generally easier and safer for your pet to purchase a ready-built contact obstacles, but you can make your own A-frame from wood or aluminum. Instructions can be found online.\\nFor see-saw obstacles, you may buy a purpose-built agility see-saw or you can use one meant for toddlers or small children.\\n1-3. Plan a tire jump.\\nTire jumps are easily adjustable if you have different sized dogs, and are typically found in many competitive agility courses. These are tires suspended by ropes to a wooden frame.\\nAccording to USDAA regulations, tire jumps must have an interior opening of 20 inches (50.8 cm), and the tire itself must have a 4 inch (10.16 cm) wall.\\nTire jumps are generally purchased whole from agility equipment retailers, as while you can build one yourself, professionally manufactured jumps tend to be more secure and less likely to hurt your pet if they miss the jump.\\nSetting up tire jumps is generally a simple process that at most involves you connecting the tire to the suspending agents, but more often just involves placing the frame.\\n1-4. Plan your weave poles.\\nWeave poles are a set of narrow plastic poles set closely together so that your dog can quickly weave their body between each pole. Each course should have five to twelve poles with approximately two feet (0.6 meters) between each pole.\\nWeave poles should be sturdy enough that they can withstand your dog running in between them, but not so sturdy that they won't bend or fall if your dog does not weave perfectly.\\nWeave poles should not be driven far into the ground, as this cause them to become more rigid and subsequently poses an increased risk of injury for your dog.\\nYou can make your own weave poles by setting one inch (2.5 cm) diameter PVC pipe in along a pipe base. Use tee pipe connectors to join the upright poles to the base.\\nYou can also purchase safe and sturdy weave poles from a manufacturer.\\n1-5. Lay out tunnels.\\nTunnels are generally of fabric, and may have a curve or bend, or may be straight. Tunnels can easily be improvised using children's play tunnels, and can be used as an indoor our outdoor training obstacle.\\nIf you are training for competition, your dog will need to know how to navigate a pipe tunnel, which is usually straight, and a collapsible tunnel, which may have a curve.\\nPlay tunnels can be used to train for both types of tunnel obstacles. Simply reconfigure the tunnel to be straight or to have a bend.\\n1-6. Create a few layouts.\\nThere is no one setup for an agility course. Different courses will have different obstacles at different points. Create a few layouts so that you can change up your course and keep your dog stimulated during training.\\nTry not to put like obstacles next to one another. For example, do not put a see-saw after an A-frame. Create variation to help your pet get the most from the course.\\n2. Setting Up Your Course\\n2-1. Decide if you want to DIY.\\nYou can create your course either by buying purpose-built obstacles or by making your own. Take a look into the investment of purchasing new equipment and the time commitment and knowledge necessary to build your own and decide what is right for you.\\nYou can use a variety of objects to create obstacles for your dog to work with, including broomsticks, PVC pipes, ramps, and more.\\nIf you do not have much experience building or fixing things, a dog agility course might not be the best place to start. Lack of experience may lead to unsafe features in your course that could cause harm to your dog.\\nIf you are considering purchasing equipment, look for agility training kits that allow you to bundle obstacles. The right package could help save money when compared to buying pieces individually.\\nIf you choose to build your own obstacles, look up instructions for specific obstacles meant to fit your dog’s size. Follow their instructions, measurements, and plans closely.\\n2-2. Clear the space.\\nMake sure you clear the space for your course before you begin putting it up. Remove any obstructions such as sticks, rocks, bowls, and other play equipment. Also be sure to clear out distractions such as treats and toys unless they are specifically to be used during the training.\\nBe sure that the space is mostly level. The obstacles associated with an agility course can be disorienting and potentially harmful if on uneven surfaces.\\n2-3. Put up the obstacles.\\nOnce you have your obstacles, set up one of your course designs so that you and your dog can start training. Remember to safety check each obstacle before you let your dog on the course. Make sure nothing shifts or moves while your dog is on it.\\nMake sure bars like those on hurdles can easily be knocked off so that your dog does not run into a hard object while training.\\nCheck to make sure that your dog can comfortably fit through any tunnels before guiding them into one.\\n3. Introducing the Course to Your Dog\\n3-1. Let your dog explore.\\nBefore you ever start training, let your dog explore the course. Unleash them in the area of the course and allow them to sniff around and familiarize themselves with the equipment. Familiarizing early on helps your dog feel more comfortable on the course when training.\\nIf your dog seems curious about the equipment, help them explore obstacles such as tunnels and see-saws. Gently guide your dog through with your hands or with verbal encouragement.\\n3-2. Take your dog on a walkthrough.\\nOnce you have introduced the course to your dog, take them on a walkthrough so that they can start to understand each obstacle. Help guide them up and down contact obstacles and over jumps.\\nUse vocal commands, treats, and gentle touch to help guide your dog through the course the first time.\\nBe sure to help your dog stabilize on obstacles such as the see-saw. Use your hands to help them keep from coming down too fast or sliding off the obstacle.\\n3-3. Begin training.\\nOnce your dog is comfortable with the course, you are ready to start your agility training. If you have never practiced agility training with your dog before, practice handling and commands on the ground before you work your way to the obstacles.\\nStart with more obvious obstacles such as using cones for weave poles until your dog is ready to handle the more narrow poles.\\nTake your dog to agility training classes or training groups to help both you and your pet get the most from your new hobby.\\nTips\\nDon't force your dog to do things they are afraid of.\\nToddlers items, such as slides and see-saws, can work well for a home agility course..\\nIf your dog is panting but wont drink water, give him/her some time to rest. Like others said, don't push your dog!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Agility training can be a fun and useful activity for dogs and their owners to tackle together. Agility training can help satisfy your dog’s natural instincts and allow them to release built-up energy, all while helping to bring you and your pet closer together. You can build your own agility course to help your dog train, practice, and even compete. To design an agility course, consider your dog’s size and level of training, then build a course that will meet your furry friend's size, constitution, and needs.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Agility Course\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Evaluate your dog’s capability.\", \"描述\": \"As you start thinking about what obstacles you want to set up in your course, consider your dog’s capability. Make sure plan obstacles that are appropriate for your dog’s size. A corgi, for example, could not get through a tire jump meant for a German shepherd.\\nAlso consider any limited ability your dog has. If your dog has back problems, for example, they may be able to easily get up and down an A-frame, but may not be able to complete a weave pole exercise.\\nDo not try to force a dog beyond its ability. Some dogs may not be able to do certain obstacles, and all dogs will have to train up from easier to more challenging courses.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build contact obstacles.\", \"描述\": \"Contact obstacles typically include A-frames and see-saws. A-frames have your dog run up one side and immediately down the other of a wooden, A-shaped obstacle.\\nIt is generally easier and safer for your pet to purchase a ready-built contact obstacles, but you can make your own A-frame from wood or aluminum. Instructions can be found online.\\nFor see-saw obstacles, you may buy a purpose-built agility see-saw or you can use one meant for toddlers or small children.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plan a tire jump.\", \"描述\": \"Tire jumps are easily adjustable if you have different sized dogs, and are typically found in many competitive agility courses. These are tires suspended by ropes to a wooden frame.\\nAccording to USDAA regulations, tire jumps must have an interior opening of 20 inches (50.8 cm), and the tire itself must have a 4 inch (10.16 cm) wall.\\nTire jumps are generally purchased whole from agility equipment retailers, as while you can build one yourself, professionally manufactured jumps tend to be more secure and less likely to hurt your pet if they miss the jump.\\nSetting up tire jumps is generally a simple process that at most involves you connecting the tire to the suspending agents, but more often just involves placing the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Plan your weave poles.\", \"描述\": \"Weave poles are a set of narrow plastic poles set closely together so that your dog can quickly weave their body between each pole. Each course should have five to twelve poles with approximately two feet (0.6 meters) between each pole.\\nWeave poles should be sturdy enough that they can withstand your dog running in between them, but not so sturdy that they won't bend or fall if your dog does not weave perfectly.\\nWeave poles should not be driven far into the ground, as this cause them to become more rigid and subsequently poses an increased risk of injury for your dog.\\nYou can make your own weave poles by setting one inch (2.5 cm) diameter PVC pipe in along a pipe base. Use tee pipe connectors to join the upright poles to the base.\\nYou can also purchase safe and sturdy weave poles from a manufacturer.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lay out tunnels.\", \"描述\": \"Tunnels are generally of fabric, and may have a curve or bend, or may be straight. Tunnels can easily be improvised using children's play tunnels, and can be used as an indoor our outdoor training obstacle.\\nIf you are training for competition, your dog will need to know how to navigate a pipe tunnel, which is usually straight, and a collapsible tunnel, which may have a curve.\\nPlay tunnels can be used to train for both types of tunnel obstacles. Simply reconfigure the tunnel to be straight or to have a bend.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create a few layouts.\", \"描述\": \"There is no one setup for an agility course. Different courses will have different obstacles at different points. Create a few layouts so that you can change up your course and keep your dog stimulated during training.\\nTry not to put like obstacles next to one another. For example, do not put a see-saw after an A-frame. Create variation to help your pet get the most from the course.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Setting Up Your Course\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide if you want to DIY.\", \"描述\": \"You can create your course either by buying purpose-built obstacles or by making your own. Take a look into the investment of purchasing new equipment and the time commitment and knowledge necessary to build your own and decide what is right for you.\\nYou can use a variety of objects to create obstacles for your dog to work with, including broomsticks, PVC pipes, ramps, and more.\\nIf you do not have much experience building or fixing things, a dog agility course might not be the best place to start. Lack of experience may lead to unsafe features in your course that could cause harm to your dog.\\nIf you are considering purchasing equipment, look for agility training kits that allow you to bundle obstacles. The right package could help save money when compared to buying pieces individually.\\nIf you choose to build your own obstacles, look up instructions for specific obstacles meant to fit your dog’s size. Follow their instructions, measurements, and plans closely.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Clear the space.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you clear the space for your course before you begin putting it up. Remove any obstructions such as sticks, rocks, bowls, and other play equipment. Also be sure to clear out distractions such as treats and toys unless they are specifically to be used during the training.\\nBe sure that the space is mostly level. The obstacles associated with an agility course can be disorienting and potentially harmful if on uneven surfaces.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put up the obstacles.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have your obstacles, set up one of your course designs so that you and your dog can start training. Remember to safety check each obstacle before you let your dog on the course. Make sure nothing shifts or moves while your dog is on it.\\nMake sure bars like those on hurdles can easily be knocked off so that your dog does not run into a hard object while training.\\nCheck to make sure that your dog can comfortably fit through any tunnels before guiding them into one.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Introducing the Course to Your Dog\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Let your dog explore.\", \"描述\": \"Before you ever start training, let your dog explore the course. Unleash them in the area of the course and allow them to sniff around and familiarize themselves with the equipment. Familiarizing early on helps your dog feel more comfortable on the course when training.\\nIf your dog seems curious about the equipment, help them explore obstacles such as tunnels and see-saws. Gently guide your dog through with your hands or with verbal encouragement.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take your dog on a walkthrough.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have introduced the course to your dog, take them on a walkthrough so that they can start to understand each obstacle. Help guide them up and down contact obstacles and over jumps.\\nUse vocal commands, treats, and gentle touch to help guide your dog through the course the first time.\\nBe sure to help your dog stabilize on obstacles such as the see-saw. Use your hands to help them keep from coming down too fast or sliding off the obstacle.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Begin training.\", \"描述\": \"Once your dog is comfortable with the course, you are ready to start your agility training. If you have never practiced agility training with your dog before, practice handling and commands on the ground before you work your way to the obstacles.\\nStart with more obvious obstacles such as using cones for weave poles until your dog is ready to handle the more narrow poles.\\nTake your dog to agility training classes or training groups to help both you and your pet get the most from your new hobby.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Don't force your dog to do things they are afraid of.\\n\", \"Toddlers items, such as slides and see-saws, can work well for a home agility course..\\n\", \"If your dog is panting but wont drink water, give him/her some time to rest. Like others said, don't push your dog!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,317 |
How to Build a Dog Agility Jump
|
1. Making a Large Agility Jump
1-1. Mark your measurements.
Depending on where you bought the PVC pipe, you will need to measure and mark the pipe before you cut it. Most 1½-inch PVC pipe comes in in 5-foot (1.52 m) lengths. With a tape measure and Sharpie, measure and then mark the cuts that you need to make on your PVC pipe. For your convenience, you might also ask the sales associate if they would cut the pipe to your specifications. Whether you cut it yourself or have someone else do it, you will need to make the following pieces:
8 12-inch (30.48 cm) pieces.
2 48-inch (121.92 cm) pieces.
2 5½-inch (13.97 cm) pieces.
2 6 ½-inch (16.51 cm) pieces.
2 15¼-inch (38.74 cm) pieces.
1-2. Cut
Once you have measured and marked your pipe, cut the individual pieces using a pull saw (hacksaw or miter saw) or a circular saw. Using the saw, you will want to cut along the lines that you marked on the pipe until you have 16 individual pieces of PVC pipe. When cutting the pipe, you should place the PVC pipe in a vise or hold it in place with a clamp.
When operating a circular saw, you should always wear eye protection and keep your fingers away from the blade.
A miter saw and box may will give you more control over your cut, making it more accurate. You also do not need a clamp or vise since the miter box will hold the pipe in place.
If you use a hacksaw, always secure your pipe within a vise or with a clamp. This will help prevent you from cutting yourself.
1-3. Create your cups.
To create a cup where the jump bars will rest, mark a line down the middle of the center tube, stopping when you get to the joint. Then insert a small piece of scrap pipe into one end of the tee joint and clamp the other end to your work surface. Holding the scrap pipe with your free hand, you will cut along the line that you drew. Then turn the tee and cut parallel with the pipe to create the cup. Repeat this step with three more tee joints to make all of the cups.
Remember to cut away from yourself when creating the cup.
If making your own cups seems too complicated or dangerous, you can also buy cups online from various pet supply companies.
The cup should hold the jump bar in place while allowing it to easily come free. This will keep your dog from being injured.
1-4. Assemble the sides of the jump.
Build one side of the jump by putting the pieces together in this order: tee joint, 5½-inch (13.97 cm) pipe, cup tee, 6 ½-inch (16.51 cm) pipe, cup tee, 15 ¼-inch (38.74 cm) pipe, and end cap. Use a block and hammer to fit the pieces together securely. Repeat this process to create the other side.
You will know that the pieces are connected when the pipe rests firmly against the inside shoulder of the connector.
1-5. Build the bases.
Take one of your side pieces and insert a 12-inch (30.48 cm) pipe through the open tee joint on the bottom. Put a cap on one end and another tee joint on the other. Finally, put two 12-inch (30.48 cm) pipes with end caps into each end of the open tee joint to make it steadier. Repeat this process to create the base for the other side.
Once completed, the bases should stand on their own.
1-6. Finish assembling the jump.
Wrap a few strips of tape around the bars and the sides of the jump to make it more visible to your dog. Then place the sides parallel with the cups facing each other. Finally, connect the two sides by resting a 48-inch (121.92 cm) piece between them.
Depending on your dog’s agility, you may only need the lower bar at first and then work up to two bars as your dog gets better at jumping.
2. Constructing Two Small Agility Jumps
2-1. Mark your measurements.
Using a tape measure and Sharpie, mark the cuts on your 1-inch PVC pipe. 1-inch PVC comes in 10-foot lengths at most hardware stores. However, if you have your measurements handy, you should ask the sales associate if they would be able to make your cuts for you. Regardless, you will need the following pieces:
8 12-inch (30.48 cm) pieces
4 1¾-inch (4.45 cm) pieces
2 50-inch (127 cm) pieces
4 30-inch (76.2 cm) pieces
2-2. Cut your pieces.
Once you have marked your cuts, use a pull saw (hacksaw or miter saw) or circular saw to cut your pieces. Make sure that you cut straight along the lines that you marked. Because you are making two jumps, you will have 18 pieces total, 9 pieces for each jump.
2-3. Make the jump bars.
While you are cutting your pieces, take the 10-foot (3.1 m) pieces of ¾-inch (1.9 cm) PVC pipe and cut off four 50-inch (127 cm) pieces. An easy way to do this would be to mark and cut off a 20-inch (50.8 cm) piece from each pipe, and then cut the remaining large piece in half to get two 50-inch (127 cm) pieces. You can then use tape to mark the bars or use newspaper and spray paint to make more complicated markings. Ul
You should end up with four 50-inch (127 cm) pieces of ¾-inch (1.9 cm) PVC pipe.
Depending on how exact your measurements are, you may find that you need to trim a little off the ends of your jump bars to get them to fit properly in the cups. You should not need to take off more than a quarter of an inch (6.35 mm).
2-4. Build the feet of the jumps.
Slide two 12-inch (30.48 cm) pieces into the top and bottom ends of a tee joint. Then put caps on the ends of the 12-inch (30.48 cm) pipe. Repeat this process three more times to make all four feet for your jumps.
If the pieces do not slide together easily, you might consider using a hammer and block to tap them together.
2-5. Construct two bases.
For each foot, insert a 1¾-inch (4.45 cm) piece into the open end of the tee joint. Then attach another tee joint to the top of the 1¾-inch (4.45 cm). You should have four individual feet with tee joints facing in. Finally, take two jump feet and, with the middle openings of the tee joints facing each other, insert a 50-inch (127 cm) piece of 1-inch (2.5 cm) pipe in-between them.
Once you insert the 50-inch (127 cm) piece, the base should stand on its own.
2-6. Assemble the jump.
Insert a 30-inch (76.2 cm) into the open tee joints at the tops of each base and put caps on the open pipe ends. Then clip two jump cups onto the 30-inch (76.2 cm). With the cups facing each other, place one 50-inch (127 cm) piece of ¾-inch (1.9 cm) in-between each jump cup. This should give you two parallel jumping bars for each of your jumps.
You should be able to find the jump cup clips online. You can also make your own.
If the bars do not fit perfectly, consider sawing off a little at the ends until they fit. The bars should rest securely but fall easily if bumped.
3. Training Your Dog to Use the Jump
3-1. Entice your dog with a reward.
One of the easiest ways to get your dog to go over the agility jump is to stand on the other side with a treat. When your dog jumps over the bars, give it the treat and some praise. However, if the dog goes around the bars, do not give it the treat. Eventually, your dog will learn to associate jumping over the bars with a treat. Over time, they will jump without being prompted.
3-2. Take some time.
It will take a fair amount of time to get your dog trained to jump over the jumping bars. Depending on their temperament and breed, your dog may take to the agility jump right away. However, your dog may be hesitant at first and need some coaxing to attempt a jump. Be patient and train your dog every day in order to master the agility jump.
3-3. Give the dog praise.
It is important that you be positive with your dog during its training. Maintaining a positive tone will help your dog master the agility jump and create a positive association. If you yell at your dog or take a harsh tone, it will become anxious around the jumps and take a longer time to master the trick.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:32",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Large Agility Jump\\n1-1. Mark your measurements.\\nDepending on where you bought the PVC pipe, you will need to measure and mark the pipe before you cut it. Most 1½-inch PVC pipe comes in in 5-foot (1.52 m) lengths. With a tape measure and Sharpie, measure and then mark the cuts that you need to make on your PVC pipe. For your convenience, you might also ask the sales associate if they would cut the pipe to your specifications. Whether you cut it yourself or have someone else do it, you will need to make the following pieces:\\n8 12-inch (30.48 cm) pieces.\\n2 48-inch (121.92 cm) pieces.\\n2 5½-inch (13.97 cm) pieces.\\n2 6 ½-inch (16.51 cm) pieces.\\n2 15¼-inch (38.74 cm) pieces.\\n1-2. Cut\\nOnce you have measured and marked your pipe, cut the individual pieces using a pull saw (hacksaw or miter saw) or a circular saw. Using the saw, you will want to cut along the lines that you marked on the pipe until you have 16 individual pieces of PVC pipe. When cutting the pipe, you should place the PVC pipe in a vise or hold it in place with a clamp.\\nWhen operating a circular saw, you should always wear eye protection and keep your fingers away from the blade.\\nA miter saw and box may will give you more control over your cut, making it more accurate. You also do not need a clamp or vise since the miter box will hold the pipe in place.\\nIf you use a hacksaw, always secure your pipe within a vise or with a clamp. This will help prevent you from cutting yourself.\\n1-3. Create your cups.\\nTo create a cup where the jump bars will rest, mark a line down the middle of the center tube, stopping when you get to the joint. Then insert a small piece of scrap pipe into one end of the tee joint and clamp the other end to your work surface. Holding the scrap pipe with your free hand, you will cut along the line that you drew. Then turn the tee and cut parallel with the pipe to create the cup. Repeat this step with three more tee joints to make all of the cups.\\nRemember to cut away from yourself when creating the cup.\\nIf making your own cups seems too complicated or dangerous, you can also buy cups online from various pet supply companies.\\nThe cup should hold the jump bar in place while allowing it to easily come free. This will keep your dog from being injured.\\n1-4. Assemble the sides of the jump.\\nBuild one side of the jump by putting the pieces together in this order: tee joint, 5½-inch (13.97 cm) pipe, cup tee, 6 ½-inch (16.51 cm) pipe, cup tee, 15 ¼-inch (38.74 cm) pipe, and end cap. Use a block and hammer to fit the pieces together securely. Repeat this process to create the other side.\\nYou will know that the pieces are connected when the pipe rests firmly against the inside shoulder of the connector.\\n1-5. Build the bases.\\nTake one of your side pieces and insert a 12-inch (30.48 cm) pipe through the open tee joint on the bottom. Put a cap on one end and another tee joint on the other. Finally, put two 12-inch (30.48 cm) pipes with end caps into each end of the open tee joint to make it steadier. Repeat this process to create the base for the other side.\\nOnce completed, the bases should stand on their own.\\n1-6. Finish assembling the jump.\\nWrap a few strips of tape around the bars and the sides of the jump to make it more visible to your dog. Then place the sides parallel with the cups facing each other. Finally, connect the two sides by resting a 48-inch (121.92 cm) piece between them.\\nDepending on your dog’s agility, you may only need the lower bar at first and then work up to two bars as your dog gets better at jumping.\\n2. Constructing Two Small Agility Jumps\\n2-1. Mark your measurements.\\nUsing a tape measure and Sharpie, mark the cuts on your 1-inch PVC pipe. 1-inch PVC comes in 10-foot lengths at most hardware stores. However, if you have your measurements handy, you should ask the sales associate if they would be able to make your cuts for you. Regardless, you will need the following pieces:\\n8 12-inch (30.48 cm) pieces\\n4 1¾-inch (4.45 cm) pieces\\n2 50-inch (127 cm) pieces\\n4 30-inch (76.2 cm) pieces\\n2-2. Cut your pieces.\\nOnce you have marked your cuts, use a pull saw (hacksaw or miter saw) or circular saw to cut your pieces. Make sure that you cut straight along the lines that you marked. Because you are making two jumps, you will have 18 pieces total, 9 pieces for each jump.\\n2-3. Make the jump bars.\\nWhile you are cutting your pieces, take the 10-foot (3.1 m) pieces of ¾-inch (1.9 cm) PVC pipe and cut off four 50-inch (127 cm) pieces. An easy way to do this would be to mark and cut off a 20-inch (50.8 cm) piece from each pipe, and then cut the remaining large piece in half to get two 50-inch (127 cm) pieces. You can then use tape to mark the bars or use newspaper and spray paint to make more complicated markings. Ul\\nYou should end up with four 50-inch (127 cm) pieces of ¾-inch (1.9 cm) PVC pipe.\\nDepending on how exact your measurements are, you may find that you need to trim a little off the ends of your jump bars to get them to fit properly in the cups. You should not need to take off more than a quarter of an inch (6.35 mm).\\n2-4. Build the feet of the jumps.\\nSlide two 12-inch (30.48 cm) pieces into the top and bottom ends of a tee joint. Then put caps on the ends of the 12-inch (30.48 cm) pipe. Repeat this process three more times to make all four feet for your jumps.\\nIf the pieces do not slide together easily, you might consider using a hammer and block to tap them together.\\n2-5. Construct two bases.\\nFor each foot, insert a 1¾-inch (4.45 cm) piece into the open end of the tee joint. Then attach another tee joint to the top of the 1¾-inch (4.45 cm). You should have four individual feet with tee joints facing in. Finally, take two jump feet and, with the middle openings of the tee joints facing each other, insert a 50-inch (127 cm) piece of 1-inch (2.5 cm) pipe in-between them.\\nOnce you insert the 50-inch (127 cm) piece, the base should stand on its own.\\n2-6. Assemble the jump.\\nInsert a 30-inch (76.2 cm) into the open tee joints at the tops of each base and put caps on the open pipe ends. Then clip two jump cups onto the 30-inch (76.2 cm). With the cups facing each other, place one 50-inch (127 cm) piece of ¾-inch (1.9 cm) in-between each jump cup. This should give you two parallel jumping bars for each of your jumps.\\nYou should be able to find the jump cup clips online. You can also make your own.\\nIf the bars do not fit perfectly, consider sawing off a little at the ends until they fit. The bars should rest securely but fall easily if bumped.\\n3. Training Your Dog to Use the Jump\\n3-1. Entice your dog with a reward.\\nOne of the easiest ways to get your dog to go over the agility jump is to stand on the other side with a treat. When your dog jumps over the bars, give it the treat and some praise. However, if the dog goes around the bars, do not give it the treat. Eventually, your dog will learn to associate jumping over the bars with a treat. Over time, they will jump without being prompted.\\n3-2. Take some time.\\nIt will take a fair amount of time to get your dog trained to jump over the jumping bars. Depending on their temperament and breed, your dog may take to the agility jump right away. However, your dog may be hesitant at first and need some coaxing to attempt a jump. Be patient and train your dog every day in order to master the agility jump.\\n3-3. Give the dog praise.\\nIt is important that you be positive with your dog during its training. Maintaining a positive tone will help your dog master the agility jump and create a positive association. If you yell at your dog or take a harsh tone, it will become anxious around the jumps and take a longer time to master the trick.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Purchasing a dog agility jump can be expensive. However, you can make your own cheaply with some PVC pipe and a few tools. You can make a large jump for big or particularly agile dogs. You can also make two little jumps for smaller or less agile dogs. With the right jumps, you will be able to train your dog and help it become more agile.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Large Agility Jump\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark your measurements.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on where you bought the PVC pipe, you will need to measure and mark the pipe before you cut it. Most 1½-inch PVC pipe comes in in 5-foot (1.52 m) lengths. With a tape measure and Sharpie, measure and then mark the cuts that you need to make on your PVC pipe. For your convenience, you might also ask the sales associate if they would cut the pipe to your specifications. Whether you cut it yourself or have someone else do it, you will need to make the following pieces:\\n8 12-inch (30.48 cm) pieces.\\n2 48-inch (121.92 cm) pieces.\\n2 5½-inch (13.97 cm) pieces.\\n2 6 ½-inch (16.51 cm) pieces.\\n2 15¼-inch (38.74 cm) pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut\", \"描述\": \"Once you have measured and marked your pipe, cut the individual pieces using a pull saw (hacksaw or miter saw) or a circular saw. Using the saw, you will want to cut along the lines that you marked on the pipe until you have 16 individual pieces of PVC pipe. When cutting the pipe, you should place the PVC pipe in a vise or hold it in place with a clamp.\\nWhen operating a circular saw, you should always wear eye protection and keep your fingers away from the blade.\\nA miter saw and box may will give you more control over your cut, making it more accurate. You also do not need a clamp or vise since the miter box will hold the pipe in place.\\nIf you use a hacksaw, always secure your pipe within a vise or with a clamp. This will help prevent you from cutting yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create your cups.\", \"描述\": \"To create a cup where the jump bars will rest, mark a line down the middle of the center tube, stopping when you get to the joint. Then insert a small piece of scrap pipe into one end of the tee joint and clamp the other end to your work surface. Holding the scrap pipe with your free hand, you will cut along the line that you drew. Then turn the tee and cut parallel with the pipe to create the cup. Repeat this step with three more tee joints to make all of the cups.\\nRemember to cut away from yourself when creating the cup.\\nIf making your own cups seems too complicated or dangerous, you can also buy cups online from various pet supply companies.\\nThe cup should hold the jump bar in place while allowing it to easily come free. This will keep your dog from being injured.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Assemble the sides of the jump.\", \"描述\": \"Build one side of the jump by putting the pieces together in this order: tee joint, 5½-inch (13.97 cm) pipe, cup tee, 6 ½-inch (16.51 cm) pipe, cup tee, 15 ¼-inch (38.74 cm) pipe, and end cap. Use a block and hammer to fit the pieces together securely. Repeat this process to create the other side.\\nYou will know that the pieces are connected when the pipe rests firmly against the inside shoulder of the connector.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build the bases.\", \"描述\": \"Take one of your side pieces and insert a 12-inch (30.48 cm) pipe through the open tee joint on the bottom. Put a cap on one end and another tee joint on the other. Finally, put two 12-inch (30.48 cm) pipes with end caps into each end of the open tee joint to make it steadier. Repeat this process to create the base for the other side.\\nOnce completed, the bases should stand on their own.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Finish assembling the jump.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap a few strips of tape around the bars and the sides of the jump to make it more visible to your dog. Then place the sides parallel with the cups facing each other. Finally, connect the two sides by resting a 48-inch (121.92 cm) piece between them.\\nDepending on your dog’s agility, you may only need the lower bar at first and then work up to two bars as your dog gets better at jumping.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing Two Small Agility Jumps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark your measurements.\", \"描述\": \"Using a tape measure and Sharpie, mark the cuts on your 1-inch PVC pipe. 1-inch PVC comes in 10-foot lengths at most hardware stores. However, if you have your measurements handy, you should ask the sales associate if they would be able to make your cuts for you. Regardless, you will need the following pieces:\\n8 12-inch (30.48 cm) pieces\\n4 1¾-inch (4.45 cm) pieces\\n2 50-inch (127 cm) pieces\\n4 30-inch (76.2 cm) pieces\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have marked your cuts, use a pull saw (hacksaw or miter saw) or circular saw to cut your pieces. Make sure that you cut straight along the lines that you marked. Because you are making two jumps, you will have 18 pieces total, 9 pieces for each jump.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make the jump bars.\", \"描述\": \"While you are cutting your pieces, take the 10-foot (3.1 m) pieces of ¾-inch (1.9 cm) PVC pipe and cut off four 50-inch (127 cm) pieces. An easy way to do this would be to mark and cut off a 20-inch (50.8 cm) piece from each pipe, and then cut the remaining large piece in half to get two 50-inch (127 cm) pieces. You can then use tape to mark the bars or use newspaper and spray paint to make more complicated markings. Ul\\nYou should end up with four 50-inch (127 cm) pieces of ¾-inch (1.9 cm) PVC pipe.\\nDepending on how exact your measurements are, you may find that you need to trim a little off the ends of your jump bars to get them to fit properly in the cups. You should not need to take off more than a quarter of an inch (6.35 mm).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build the feet of the jumps.\", \"描述\": \"Slide two 12-inch (30.48 cm) pieces into the top and bottom ends of a tee joint. Then put caps on the ends of the 12-inch (30.48 cm) pipe. Repeat this process three more times to make all four feet for your jumps.\\nIf the pieces do not slide together easily, you might consider using a hammer and block to tap them together.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Construct two bases.\", \"描述\": \"For each foot, insert a 1¾-inch (4.45 cm) piece into the open end of the tee joint. Then attach another tee joint to the top of the 1¾-inch (4.45 cm). You should have four individual feet with tee joints facing in. Finally, take two jump feet and, with the middle openings of the tee joints facing each other, insert a 50-inch (127 cm) piece of 1-inch (2.5 cm) pipe in-between them.\\nOnce you insert the 50-inch (127 cm) piece, the base should stand on its own.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Assemble the jump.\", \"描述\": \"Insert a 30-inch (76.2 cm) into the open tee joints at the tops of each base and put caps on the open pipe ends. Then clip two jump cups onto the 30-inch (76.2 cm). With the cups facing each other, place one 50-inch (127 cm) piece of ¾-inch (1.9 cm) in-between each jump cup. This should give you two parallel jumping bars for each of your jumps.\\nYou should be able to find the jump cup clips online. You can also make your own.\\nIf the bars do not fit perfectly, consider sawing off a little at the ends until they fit. The bars should rest securely but fall easily if bumped.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Training Your Dog to Use the Jump\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Entice your dog with a reward.\", \"描述\": \"One of the easiest ways to get your dog to go over the agility jump is to stand on the other side with a treat. When your dog jumps over the bars, give it the treat and some praise. However, if the dog goes around the bars, do not give it the treat. Eventually, your dog will learn to associate jumping over the bars with a treat. Over time, they will jump without being prompted.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take some time.\", \"描述\": \"It will take a fair amount of time to get your dog trained to jump over the jumping bars. Depending on their temperament and breed, your dog may take to the agility jump right away. However, your dog may be hesitant at first and need some coaxing to attempt a jump. Be patient and train your dog every day in order to master the agility jump.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Give the dog praise.\", \"描述\": \"It is important that you be positive with your dog during its training. Maintaining a positive tone will help your dog master the agility jump and create a positive association. If you yell at your dog or take a harsh tone, it will become anxious around the jumps and take a longer time to master the trick.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,318 |
How to Build a Dog Barrier for Your Vehicle
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1. Finding the Right Materials
1-1. Measure your vehicle's interior.
The size of your dog barrier will depend on the floor-to-ceiling and wall-to-wall lengths of your vehicle’s trunk area. If your vehicle has collapsible back seats, you have the choice of placing the barrier just behind the front seats. In this case, run a tape measure from the floor just behind the front seats up to the ceiling. Otherwise, just measure the floor-to-ceiling height of the trunk area behind the back seats. Finally, take the longest measurement between the side windows in the trunk area, then write down these lengths.
If you have a sedan or other vehicle without open trunk space behind the back seats, and you don’t mind keeping your dog in the back seat, you can place the barrier just behind the front seats.
1-2. Purchase spring-tension rods.
These are used either to hang draperies in windows, or to support shower curtains. Their spring action allows them to be fitted between two surfaces without screws or adhesives. You’ll need to find rods that can compress to just a little shorter than the floor-to-ceiling length of the trunk that you measured. Bring this measurement to the department or hardware store, and ask an employee to help you find the appropriate size.
For example, if the floor-to-ceiling length is 3 feet, 6 inches (1.067 meters), buy rods that compress to at least 3 feet, 5 1/2 inches (1.054 meters).
You can find these rods at large department stores or hardware stores.
Select rods that have tapered rubber stoppers on their ends. These will help to secure the barrier in place against the floor and ceiling surfaces.
1-3. Choose crossbar material.
For the horizontal bars, look for ¾-inch (at least 1.9 centimeters) PVC pipe or wooden rods at the hardware store. Either one will be strong enough to keep the dog from getting through. PVC will be lighter, but also easier for the dog to chew through.
1-4. Calculate the total crossbar length.
These will need to be at least as wide as the wall-to-wall measurements of your trunk area. Calculate the total rod length to be purchased according to the size of your dog: If your dog weighs more than 25 pounds (11.3 kilograms), multiply your wall-to-wall length by four for four crossbars. If the dog weighs less than 25 pounds, multiply by five for five bars. Finally, multiply this figure by ⅘, and write down the result.
For example, if your longest wall-to-wall measurement is four feet (1.22 meters), for a 40-pound (18.1-kilogram) dog, multiplying by four gives 16 feet (4.9 meters). Then multiplying this figure by ⅘ gives 12 feet, 7.2 inches (3.92 meters).
1-5. Buy less material for certain vehicles.
In some minivans and SUVs / SACs without collapsible rear seating, there won’t be a gap to block off between the rearmost seats. Or you might prefer not to collapse the rearmost seats. In these cases, get just enough material to cover the gap between the top of the rearmost seating and the ceiling—three bars should be enough, so multiply the longest wall-to-wall length in the gap above the rearmost seats by 3, then the result by ⅘.
2. Sizing and Assembling the Barrier
2-1. Measure the crossbars.
Your crossbars will vary in length according to the gap they’ll be covering. If you’re using four bars, the bottom two only need to be long enough to cover the gap between the fronts seats just above the center console. Measure these at 2/5 of your wall-to-wall measurements, or long enough to span this gap. Measure the top two bars at ⅘ of the wall-to-wall length, or long enough to cover the gaps between the front seat headrests and the side windows.
If you’ll use five bars, measure the bottom two at ⅖ the wall-to-wall length, the middle one at ⅗, and the top two at ⅘. Again, make sure these will be long enough to cover the gaps.
If you’re only cutting three bars for a barrier behind the rearmost seating without a gap between the seats, measure the top bar at 7/10 the longest wall-to-wall length, the middle bar at ⅘, and the bottom bar at 9/10. Make sure all gaps will be covered by these lengths.
2-2. Cut the crossbars.
Using a table saw or hand saw, cut the four or five crossbars to their various lengths. Use medium-grade sandpaper to sand off the sharp frayed edges of the PVC pipe or wooden rods.
2-3. Position the vertical rods.
Put in place the two spring-tension rods vertically, one just behind each front seat, or behind the rear seats.Their distance from each wall should generally be about ⅕ of the wall-to-wall measurement. Make sure they are perfectly vertical, not leaning to one side or the other.
2-4. Mark off attachment points.
One at a time, position your four or five crossbars horizontally and evenly spaced from one another, beginning with the two shorter bars three inches (7.62 centimeters) higher than the center console. The top bar can rest four inches (10.16 centimeters) below the ceiling. Using a thin felt-tip marker, indicate the attachment points by putting an x-mark on the horizontal PVC or wooden rods where they intersect with the vertical rods. Then, keeping the horizontal rods in place, put horizontal marks on the vertical rods above and below where they intersect with the horizontal bars.
2-5. Assemble the barrier.
Using 20-gauge utility wire (0.0319 inches / 0.018 centimeters), bind the crossbars to the vertical bars at their marked intersection points. Run the wire in an x-shaped pattern diagonally around the intersection, changing the orientation of your winding every two passes. Wrap the wire tightly until the two bars are firmly secured. Check that the bars remain perpendicular to each other throughout the winding.
If you’d prefer to hide the wire, cover it over with electrical tape of a color that most closely matches the color of the bars.
2-6. Put the barrier in place.
Make sure the bars are all securely attached at the intersection points. Position the barrier directly behind the front or back seats, dividing the rearmost seating area and the trunk. Use the spring-tension feature of the vertical rods, compressing them enough to allow the barrier to be slid into place and secured.
Tips
Leave enough spacing between horizontal bars so that you can see through the rear view mirror.
You can use rubber chair leg tips to give the spring-tension rods traction/grip.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:32",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Finding the Right Materials\\n1-1. Measure your vehicle's interior.\\nThe size of your dog barrier will depend on the floor-to-ceiling and wall-to-wall lengths of your vehicle’s trunk area. If your vehicle has collapsible back seats, you have the choice of placing the barrier just behind the front seats. In this case, run a tape measure from the floor just behind the front seats up to the ceiling. Otherwise, just measure the floor-to-ceiling height of the trunk area behind the back seats. Finally, take the longest measurement between the side windows in the trunk area, then write down these lengths.\\nIf you have a sedan or other vehicle without open trunk space behind the back seats, and you don’t mind keeping your dog in the back seat, you can place the barrier just behind the front seats.\\n1-2. Purchase spring-tension rods.\\nThese are used either to hang draperies in windows, or to support shower curtains. Their spring action allows them to be fitted between two surfaces without screws or adhesives. You’ll need to find rods that can compress to just a little shorter than the floor-to-ceiling length of the trunk that you measured. Bring this measurement to the department or hardware store, and ask an employee to help you find the appropriate size.\\nFor example, if the floor-to-ceiling length is 3 feet, 6 inches (1.067 meters), buy rods that compress to at least 3 feet, 5 1/2 inches (1.054 meters).\\nYou can find these rods at large department stores or hardware stores.\\nSelect rods that have tapered rubber stoppers on their ends. These will help to secure the barrier in place against the floor and ceiling surfaces.\\n1-3. Choose crossbar material.\\nFor the horizontal bars, look for ¾-inch (at least 1.9 centimeters) PVC pipe or wooden rods at the hardware store. Either one will be strong enough to keep the dog from getting through. PVC will be lighter, but also easier for the dog to chew through.\\n1-4. Calculate the total crossbar length.\\nThese will need to be at least as wide as the wall-to-wall measurements of your trunk area. Calculate the total rod length to be purchased according to the size of your dog: If your dog weighs more than 25 pounds (11.3 kilograms), multiply your wall-to-wall length by four for four crossbars. If the dog weighs less than 25 pounds, multiply by five for five bars. Finally, multiply this figure by ⅘, and write down the result.\\nFor example, if your longest wall-to-wall measurement is four feet (1.22 meters), for a 40-pound (18.1-kilogram) dog, multiplying by four gives 16 feet (4.9 meters). Then multiplying this figure by ⅘ gives 12 feet, 7.2 inches (3.92 meters).\\n1-5. Buy less material for certain vehicles.\\nIn some minivans and SUVs / SACs without collapsible rear seating, there won’t be a gap to block off between the rearmost seats. Or you might prefer not to collapse the rearmost seats. In these cases, get just enough material to cover the gap between the top of the rearmost seating and the ceiling—three bars should be enough, so multiply the longest wall-to-wall length in the gap above the rearmost seats by 3, then the result by ⅘.\\n2. Sizing and Assembling the Barrier\\n2-1. Measure the crossbars.\\nYour crossbars will vary in length according to the gap they’ll be covering. If you’re using four bars, the bottom two only need to be long enough to cover the gap between the fronts seats just above the center console. Measure these at 2/5 of your wall-to-wall measurements, or long enough to span this gap. Measure the top two bars at ⅘ of the wall-to-wall length, or long enough to cover the gaps between the front seat headrests and the side windows.\\nIf you’ll use five bars, measure the bottom two at ⅖ the wall-to-wall length, the middle one at ⅗, and the top two at ⅘. Again, make sure these will be long enough to cover the gaps.\\nIf you’re only cutting three bars for a barrier behind the rearmost seating without a gap between the seats, measure the top bar at 7/10 the longest wall-to-wall length, the middle bar at ⅘, and the bottom bar at 9/10. Make sure all gaps will be covered by these lengths.\\n2-2. Cut the crossbars.\\nUsing a table saw or hand saw, cut the four or five crossbars to their various lengths. Use medium-grade sandpaper to sand off the sharp frayed edges of the PVC pipe or wooden rods.\\n2-3. Position the vertical rods.\\nPut in place the two spring-tension rods vertically, one just behind each front seat, or behind the rear seats.Their distance from each wall should generally be about ⅕ of the wall-to-wall measurement. Make sure they are perfectly vertical, not leaning to one side or the other.\\n2-4. Mark off attachment points.\\nOne at a time, position your four or five crossbars horizontally and evenly spaced from one another, beginning with the two shorter bars three inches (7.62 centimeters) higher than the center console. The top bar can rest four inches (10.16 centimeters) below the ceiling. Using a thin felt-tip marker, indicate the attachment points by putting an x-mark on the horizontal PVC or wooden rods where they intersect with the vertical rods. Then, keeping the horizontal rods in place, put horizontal marks on the vertical rods above and below where they intersect with the horizontal bars.\\n2-5. Assemble the barrier.\\nUsing 20-gauge utility wire (0.0319 inches / 0.018 centimeters), bind the crossbars to the vertical bars at their marked intersection points. Run the wire in an x-shaped pattern diagonally around the intersection, changing the orientation of your winding every two passes. Wrap the wire tightly until the two bars are firmly secured. Check that the bars remain perpendicular to each other throughout the winding.\\nIf you’d prefer to hide the wire, cover it over with electrical tape of a color that most closely matches the color of the bars.\\n2-6. Put the barrier in place.\\nMake sure the bars are all securely attached at the intersection points. Position the barrier directly behind the front or back seats, dividing the rearmost seating area and the trunk. Use the spring-tension feature of the vertical rods, compressing them enough to allow the barrier to be slid into place and secured.\\nTips\\nLeave enough spacing between horizontal bars so that you can see through the rear view mirror.\\nYou can use rubber chair leg tips to give the spring-tension rods traction/grip.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"When you travel with your dog in the car, keeping them secure in the back seat or trunk area helps you to concentrate on driving. If you own an SUV, minivan, station wagon, or crossover vehicle, you can easily build a barrier to place between the rearmost seating area and the trunk space where you keep your dog. With just a few materials from department and hardware stores, and a little sawing and assembly, you'll soon have a dependable barrier to help keep your dog out of your way in the front seats.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Finding the Right Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your vehicle's interior.\", \"描述\": \"The size of your dog barrier will depend on the floor-to-ceiling and wall-to-wall lengths of your vehicle’s trunk area. If your vehicle has collapsible back seats, you have the choice of placing the barrier just behind the front seats. In this case, run a tape measure from the floor just behind the front seats up to the ceiling. Otherwise, just measure the floor-to-ceiling height of the trunk area behind the back seats. Finally, take the longest measurement between the side windows in the trunk area, then write down these lengths.\\nIf you have a sedan or other vehicle without open trunk space behind the back seats, and you don’t mind keeping your dog in the back seat, you can place the barrier just behind the front seats.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase spring-tension rods.\", \"描述\": \"These are used either to hang draperies in windows, or to support shower curtains. Their spring action allows them to be fitted between two surfaces without screws or adhesives. You’ll need to find rods that can compress to just a little shorter than the floor-to-ceiling length of the trunk that you measured. Bring this measurement to the department or hardware store, and ask an employee to help you find the appropriate size.\\nFor example, if the floor-to-ceiling length is 3 feet, 6 inches (1.067 meters), buy rods that compress to at least 3 feet, 5 1/2 inches (1.054 meters).\\nYou can find these rods at large department stores or hardware stores.\\nSelect rods that have tapered rubber stoppers on their ends. These will help to secure the barrier in place against the floor and ceiling surfaces.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose crossbar material.\", \"描述\": \"For the horizontal bars, look for ¾-inch (at least 1.9 centimeters) PVC pipe or wooden rods at the hardware store. Either one will be strong enough to keep the dog from getting through. PVC will be lighter, but also easier for the dog to chew through.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Calculate the total crossbar length.\", \"描述\": \"These will need to be at least as wide as the wall-to-wall measurements of your trunk area. Calculate the total rod length to be purchased according to the size of your dog: If your dog weighs more than 25 pounds (11.3 kilograms), multiply your wall-to-wall length by four for four crossbars. If the dog weighs less than 25 pounds, multiply by five for five bars. Finally, multiply this figure by ⅘, and write down the result.\\nFor example, if your longest wall-to-wall measurement is four feet (1.22 meters), for a 40-pound (18.1-kilogram) dog, multiplying by four gives 16 feet (4.9 meters). Then multiplying this figure by ⅘ gives 12 feet, 7.2 inches (3.92 meters).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Buy less material for certain vehicles.\", \"描述\": \"In some minivans and SUVs / SACs without collapsible rear seating, there won’t be a gap to block off between the rearmost seats. Or you might prefer not to collapse the rearmost seats. In these cases, get just enough material to cover the gap between the top of the rearmost seating and the ceiling—three bars should be enough, so multiply the longest wall-to-wall length in the gap above the rearmost seats by 3, then the result by ⅘.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sizing and Assembling the Barrier\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the crossbars.\", \"描述\": \"Your crossbars will vary in length according to the gap they’ll be covering. If you’re using four bars, the bottom two only need to be long enough to cover the gap between the fronts seats just above the center console. Measure these at 2/5 of your wall-to-wall measurements, or long enough to span this gap. Measure the top two bars at ⅘ of the wall-to-wall length, or long enough to cover the gaps between the front seat headrests and the side windows.\\nIf you’ll use five bars, measure the bottom two at ⅖ the wall-to-wall length, the middle one at ⅗, and the top two at ⅘. Again, make sure these will be long enough to cover the gaps.\\nIf you’re only cutting three bars for a barrier behind the rearmost seating without a gap between the seats, measure the top bar at 7/10 the longest wall-to-wall length, the middle bar at ⅘, and the bottom bar at 9/10. Make sure all gaps will be covered by these lengths.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the crossbars.\", \"描述\": \"Using a table saw or hand saw, cut the four or five crossbars to their various lengths. Use medium-grade sandpaper to sand off the sharp frayed edges of the PVC pipe or wooden rods.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Position the vertical rods.\", \"描述\": \"Put in place the two spring-tension rods vertically, one just behind each front seat, or behind the rear seats.Their distance from each wall should generally be about ⅕ of the wall-to-wall measurement. Make sure they are perfectly vertical, not leaning to one side or the other.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mark off attachment points.\", \"描述\": \"One at a time, position your four or five crossbars horizontally and evenly spaced from one another, beginning with the two shorter bars three inches (7.62 centimeters) higher than the center console. The top bar can rest four inches (10.16 centimeters) below the ceiling. Using a thin felt-tip marker, indicate the attachment points by putting an x-mark on the horizontal PVC or wooden rods where they intersect with the vertical rods. Then, keeping the horizontal rods in place, put horizontal marks on the vertical rods above and below where they intersect with the horizontal bars.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Assemble the barrier.\", \"描述\": \"Using 20-gauge utility wire (0.0319 inches / 0.018 centimeters), bind the crossbars to the vertical bars at their marked intersection points. Run the wire in an x-shaped pattern diagonally around the intersection, changing the orientation of your winding every two passes. Wrap the wire tightly until the two bars are firmly secured. Check that the bars remain perpendicular to each other throughout the winding.\\nIf you’d prefer to hide the wire, cover it over with electrical tape of a color that most closely matches the color of the bars.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Put the barrier in place.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the bars are all securely attached at the intersection points. Position the barrier directly behind the front or back seats, dividing the rearmost seating area and the trunk. Use the spring-tension feature of the vertical rods, compressing them enough to allow the barrier to be slid into place and secured.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Leave enough spacing between horizontal bars so that you can see through the rear view mirror.\\n\", \"You can use rubber chair leg tips to give the spring-tension rods traction/grip.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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