id
int64 0
75.6k
| 问
stringlengths 3
120
| 答
stringlengths 63
120k
| 元数据
dict | 来源
stringclasses 1
value |
|---|---|---|---|---|
7,419 |
How to Build a Love Fort
|
1. Building a Love Fort Out of Sheets
1-1. Assemble the materials.
To build this love fort, you will need the following items: 5 sheets, a few blankets, one pole, 4 screw hooks, 1 spool of twine, 4 large safety pins, lots of pillows, a tape measure and scissors.
If you don't have a pole, substitute an old shower rod or broom stick.
You can also substitute large pieces of fabric or sarongs in place of your sheets.
1-2. Choose the location of your fort.
Pick an area that is fairly large and clear of furniture (you may have to rearrange your furniture to make this work). If you want people to see your fort, pick a high traffic area, like your living room.
If you prefer to make your fort more private, you may choose to build it in your bedroom.
This fort does not lend itself well to being built outside.
1-3. Hang the pole.
Measure the pole. Screw two of the hooks into the ceiling so they are the same distance apart as the length of the pole. Cut two 3-foot long pieces of twine and use this twine to hang the pole from the screw hooks.
Use the twine to tie a knot around one of the screw hooks. Then tie the other end of twine around the pole.
Repeat this for both sides of the pole.
1-4. Hang the fabrics.
Beginning with the heaviest sheet, layer the sheets and fabrics over the pole, creating a tent-like shape. When all the sheets are layered, measure 2 feet down from the front of the pole and safety pin all the sheets together.
Make sure to safety pin the sheets on the other side of the tent as well.
If you'd like the fort to be a little more private, add additional sheets and blankets to fill in the walls.
1-5. Hang the other hooks.
Cut two pieces of 3-foot long twine and tie a piece to each of the two safety pins. Screw the two remaining hooks into the ceiling about 2 feet from either side of the pole.
Tie the two pieces of twine attached to the safety pins to the two new screw hooks in the ceiling.
This will help redistribute the weight of the fort, plus it will give it some more of its shape.
1-6. Decorate the fort.
Fill your fort with pillows and blankets for coziness. To make your fort more romantic, add chocolates and champagne. Make a heart garland by cutting heart shapes out of newspapers and using a needle and thread to string them together.
Hang your garland over the sides of your tent.
Try making a pom-pom garland by stringing pom-poms on a fishing wire, using a needle. Layer your pom-pom garland over your newspaper garland.
For added luxury and playfulness, you could also put carpet tiles on the floor before adding the pillows and blankets. This will help protect carpet from chocolate and wine spills too!
2. Building a Love Fort in Your Own Bed
2-1. Assemble the supplies.
For this love fort, the basic items you will need include: a bed, old curtains, twine and thumbtacks. You can also supplement your fort with additional decorations, like twinkle lights or candles.
You can build this love fort alone to surprise your significant other.
You can also build your fort together as part of a romantic date night.
2-2. Hang the twine.
Measure out your twine: each piece should be long enough to string over your bed and attach to both walls. Secure your twine to both walls using thumbtacks.
If you have a four poster bed, the twine should hang just inches above the top of each post.
If your bed does not have a headboard or posts, the twine should be high enough that both people could sit upright in bed.
2-3. Hang the roof.
Drape the curtains over the top of the twine. The curtains should be pulled taut, so the fabric creates a canopy over the top of the bed. It's fine if the curtains drape a little, but if they drape too much, you may want to add additional twine to support them.
If you have extra blankets and sheets lying around, throw them on the bed to make a cozy love nest.
If you don't have curtains, you can also make this fort using a sheet.
2-4. Decorate the fort.
Sprinkle rose petals on the bed and create a trail of rose petals leading from the front door. Add a tray of champagne or wine and a plate of your favorite treats to eat in bed.
Dim the lights and scatter lit candles around the room to create some added ambiance.
If you have a television in your bedroom, pop in your favorite romantic movie and cuddle up for a night of love.
3. Building a Love Fort Using a Sofa
3-1. Assemble the supplies.
For this love fort, you will need the following items: a sofa, blankets, sheets, pillows, chairs, clothespins and twine. You will also need a lot of floor space on and around the sofa, in order to build the fort.
Clear out any valuable items, just in case.
Move any small tables or other small pieces of furniture out of the way.
3-2. Build the roof.
Drape a fitted sheet over the back of the sofa. Then pull the sheet taut and prop it up with one of the chairs. The roof of the fort should be high enough for two people to comfortably sit inside.
You can create a higher roof by tying twine to the side of your sheet not affixed to the sofa and attaching that twine to something tall, like an armoire.
Make sure the roof is secure before moving on. Add more twine or tuck the sheet in tighter until you feel comfortable that the roof will not collapse on you.
3-3. Drape the remaining fabrics.
Use the rest of the blankets and sheets to fill in the sides of your fort. Layer the fabrics over the roof of the tent until the entire space is cozy and covered.
If you feel you need some additional support for the roof after adding the blankets, place a chair in the middle of the fort to help prop the roof up.
Place any remaining bedding inside the fort to create a nest on the floor. Add as many blankets and pillows as it takes to make the fort truly comfy.
3-4. Decorate the love fort.
If you have twinkle lights on hand, string these around the exterior of the fort to add some ambiance. Hang a piece of twine inside the fort and using clothespins, attach handwritten love notes for your sweetheart.
Create a trail of candles leading up to the fort (do not place lit candles inside the fort; it may create a fire hazard).
Make a tray of your significant other's favorite snacks and have it waiting for them inside the fort.
Tips
Your fort doesn't have to come down right away. Leave it up for a week and enjoy reading, watching TV and taking naps inside.
Adding some aromatherapy to the room can help up the romantic ambiance, such as plants, essential oils or candles. Beware though––do not keep the candles near the fort - place safely on a surface where there is no chance of fabric touching the flames.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Love Fort Out of Sheets\\n1-1. Assemble the materials.\\nTo build this love fort, you will need the following items: 5 sheets, a few blankets, one pole, 4 screw hooks, 1 spool of twine, 4 large safety pins, lots of pillows, a tape measure and scissors.\\nIf you don't have a pole, substitute an old shower rod or broom stick.\\nYou can also substitute large pieces of fabric or sarongs in place of your sheets.\\n1-2. Choose the location of your fort.\\nPick an area that is fairly large and clear of furniture (you may have to rearrange your furniture to make this work). If you want people to see your fort, pick a high traffic area, like your living room.\\nIf you prefer to make your fort more private, you may choose to build it in your bedroom.\\nThis fort does not lend itself well to being built outside.\\n1-3. Hang the pole.\\nMeasure the pole. Screw two of the hooks into the ceiling so they are the same distance apart as the length of the pole. Cut two 3-foot long pieces of twine and use this twine to hang the pole from the screw hooks.\\nUse the twine to tie a knot around one of the screw hooks. Then tie the other end of twine around the pole.\\nRepeat this for both sides of the pole.\\n1-4. Hang the fabrics.\\nBeginning with the heaviest sheet, layer the sheets and fabrics over the pole, creating a tent-like shape. When all the sheets are layered, measure 2 feet down from the front of the pole and safety pin all the sheets together.\\nMake sure to safety pin the sheets on the other side of the tent as well.\\nIf you'd like the fort to be a little more private, add additional sheets and blankets to fill in the walls.\\n1-5. Hang the other hooks.\\nCut two pieces of 3-foot long twine and tie a piece to each of the two safety pins. Screw the two remaining hooks into the ceiling about 2 feet from either side of the pole.\\nTie the two pieces of twine attached to the safety pins to the two new screw hooks in the ceiling.\\nThis will help redistribute the weight of the fort, plus it will give it some more of its shape.\\n1-6. Decorate the fort.\\nFill your fort with pillows and blankets for coziness. To make your fort more romantic, add chocolates and champagne. Make a heart garland by cutting heart shapes out of newspapers and using a needle and thread to string them together.\\nHang your garland over the sides of your tent.\\nTry making a pom-pom garland by stringing pom-poms on a fishing wire, using a needle. Layer your pom-pom garland over your newspaper garland.\\nFor added luxury and playfulness, you could also put carpet tiles on the floor before adding the pillows and blankets. This will help protect carpet from chocolate and wine spills too!\\n2. Building a Love Fort in Your Own Bed\\n2-1. Assemble the supplies.\\nFor this love fort, the basic items you will need include: a bed, old curtains, twine and thumbtacks. You can also supplement your fort with additional decorations, like twinkle lights or candles.\\nYou can build this love fort alone to surprise your significant other.\\nYou can also build your fort together as part of a romantic date night.\\n2-2. Hang the twine.\\nMeasure out your twine: each piece should be long enough to string over your bed and attach to both walls. Secure your twine to both walls using thumbtacks.\\nIf you have a four poster bed, the twine should hang just inches above the top of each post.\\nIf your bed does not have a headboard or posts, the twine should be high enough that both people could sit upright in bed.\\n2-3. Hang the roof.\\nDrape the curtains over the top of the twine. The curtains should be pulled taut, so the fabric creates a canopy over the top of the bed. It's fine if the curtains drape a little, but if they drape too much, you may want to add additional twine to support them.\\nIf you have extra blankets and sheets lying around, throw them on the bed to make a cozy love nest.\\nIf you don't have curtains, you can also make this fort using a sheet.\\n2-4. Decorate the fort.\\nSprinkle rose petals on the bed and create a trail of rose petals leading from the front door. Add a tray of champagne or wine and a plate of your favorite treats to eat in bed.\\nDim the lights and scatter lit candles around the room to create some added ambiance.\\nIf you have a television in your bedroom, pop in your favorite romantic movie and cuddle up for a night of love.\\n3. Building a Love Fort Using a Sofa\\n3-1. Assemble the supplies.\\nFor this love fort, you will need the following items: a sofa, blankets, sheets, pillows, chairs, clothespins and twine. You will also need a lot of floor space on and around the sofa, in order to build the fort.\\nClear out any valuable items, just in case.\\nMove any small tables or other small pieces of furniture out of the way.\\n3-2. Build the roof.\\nDrape a fitted sheet over the back of the sofa. Then pull the sheet taut and prop it up with one of the chairs. The roof of the fort should be high enough for two people to comfortably sit inside.\\nYou can create a higher roof by tying twine to the side of your sheet not affixed to the sofa and attaching that twine to something tall, like an armoire.\\nMake sure the roof is secure before moving on. Add more twine or tuck the sheet in tighter until you feel comfortable that the roof will not collapse on you.\\n3-3. Drape the remaining fabrics.\\nUse the rest of the blankets and sheets to fill in the sides of your fort. Layer the fabrics over the roof of the tent until the entire space is cozy and covered.\\nIf you feel you need some additional support for the roof after adding the blankets, place a chair in the middle of the fort to help prop the roof up.\\nPlace any remaining bedding inside the fort to create a nest on the floor. Add as many blankets and pillows as it takes to make the fort truly comfy.\\n3-4. Decorate the love fort.\\nIf you have twinkle lights on hand, string these around the exterior of the fort to add some ambiance. Hang a piece of twine inside the fort and using clothespins, attach handwritten love notes for your sweetheart.\\nCreate a trail of candles leading up to the fort (do not place lit candles inside the fort; it may create a fire hazard).\\nMake a tray of your significant other's favorite snacks and have it waiting for them inside the fort.\\nTips\\nYour fort doesn't have to come down right away. Leave it up for a week and enjoy reading, watching TV and taking naps inside.\\nAdding some aromatherapy to the room can help up the romantic ambiance, such as plants, essential oils or candles. Beware though––do not keep the candles near the fort - place safely on a surface where there is no chance of fabric touching the flames.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Growing up, building a fort was a fun and easy way to hide out and escape the real world. But just because you're not a kid anymore doesn't mean you shouldn't enjoy the same simple pleasures. Build a fort for your lover and use it whenever the two of you feel you need a little childlike escapism.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Love Fort Out of Sheets\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble the materials.\", \"描述\": \"To build this love fort, you will need the following items: 5 sheets, a few blankets, one pole, 4 screw hooks, 1 spool of twine, 4 large safety pins, lots of pillows, a tape measure and scissors.\\nIf you don't have a pole, substitute an old shower rod or broom stick.\\nYou can also substitute large pieces of fabric or sarongs in place of your sheets.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose the location of your fort.\", \"描述\": \"Pick an area that is fairly large and clear of furniture (you may have to rearrange your furniture to make this work). If you want people to see your fort, pick a high traffic area, like your living room.\\nIf you prefer to make your fort more private, you may choose to build it in your bedroom.\\nThis fort does not lend itself well to being built outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hang the pole.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the pole. Screw two of the hooks into the ceiling so they are the same distance apart as the length of the pole. Cut two 3-foot long pieces of twine and use this twine to hang the pole from the screw hooks.\\nUse the twine to tie a knot around one of the screw hooks. Then tie the other end of twine around the pole.\\nRepeat this for both sides of the pole.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Hang the fabrics.\", \"描述\": \"Beginning with the heaviest sheet, layer the sheets and fabrics over the pole, creating a tent-like shape. When all the sheets are layered, measure 2 feet down from the front of the pole and safety pin all the sheets together.\\nMake sure to safety pin the sheets on the other side of the tent as well.\\nIf you'd like the fort to be a little more private, add additional sheets and blankets to fill in the walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Hang the other hooks.\", \"描述\": \"Cut two pieces of 3-foot long twine and tie a piece to each of the two safety pins. Screw the two remaining hooks into the ceiling about 2 feet from either side of the pole.\\nTie the two pieces of twine attached to the safety pins to the two new screw hooks in the ceiling.\\nThis will help redistribute the weight of the fort, plus it will give it some more of its shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decorate the fort.\", \"描述\": \"Fill your fort with pillows and blankets for coziness. To make your fort more romantic, add chocolates and champagne. Make a heart garland by cutting heart shapes out of newspapers and using a needle and thread to string them together.\\nHang your garland over the sides of your tent.\\nTry making a pom-pom garland by stringing pom-poms on a fishing wire, using a needle. Layer your pom-pom garland over your newspaper garland.\\nFor added luxury and playfulness, you could also put carpet tiles on the floor before adding the pillows and blankets. This will help protect carpet from chocolate and wine spills too!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Love Fort in Your Own Bed\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble the supplies.\", \"描述\": \"For this love fort, the basic items you will need include: a bed, old curtains, twine and thumbtacks. You can also supplement your fort with additional decorations, like twinkle lights or candles.\\nYou can build this love fort alone to surprise your significant other.\\nYou can also build your fort together as part of a romantic date night.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hang the twine.\", \"描述\": \"Measure out your twine: each piece should be long enough to string over your bed and attach to both walls. Secure your twine to both walls using thumbtacks.\\nIf you have a four poster bed, the twine should hang just inches above the top of each post.\\nIf your bed does not have a headboard or posts, the twine should be high enough that both people could sit upright in bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hang the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Drape the curtains over the top of the twine. The curtains should be pulled taut, so the fabric creates a canopy over the top of the bed. It's fine if the curtains drape a little, but if they drape too much, you may want to add additional twine to support them.\\nIf you have extra blankets and sheets lying around, throw them on the bed to make a cozy love nest.\\nIf you don't have curtains, you can also make this fort using a sheet.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decorate the fort.\", \"描述\": \"Sprinkle rose petals on the bed and create a trail of rose petals leading from the front door. Add a tray of champagne or wine and a plate of your favorite treats to eat in bed.\\nDim the lights and scatter lit candles around the room to create some added ambiance.\\nIf you have a television in your bedroom, pop in your favorite romantic movie and cuddle up for a night of love.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Love Fort Using a Sofa\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble the supplies.\", \"描述\": \"For this love fort, you will need the following items: a sofa, blankets, sheets, pillows, chairs, clothespins and twine. You will also need a lot of floor space on and around the sofa, in order to build the fort.\\nClear out any valuable items, just in case.\\nMove any small tables or other small pieces of furniture out of the way.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Drape a fitted sheet over the back of the sofa. Then pull the sheet taut and prop it up with one of the chairs. The roof of the fort should be high enough for two people to comfortably sit inside.\\nYou can create a higher roof by tying twine to the side of your sheet not affixed to the sofa and attaching that twine to something tall, like an armoire.\\nMake sure the roof is secure before moving on. Add more twine or tuck the sheet in tighter until you feel comfortable that the roof will not collapse on you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drape the remaining fabrics.\", \"描述\": \"Use the rest of the blankets and sheets to fill in the sides of your fort. Layer the fabrics over the roof of the tent until the entire space is cozy and covered.\\nIf you feel you need some additional support for the roof after adding the blankets, place a chair in the middle of the fort to help prop the roof up.\\nPlace any remaining bedding inside the fort to create a nest on the floor. Add as many blankets and pillows as it takes to make the fort truly comfy.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decorate the love fort.\", \"描述\": \"If you have twinkle lights on hand, string these around the exterior of the fort to add some ambiance. Hang a piece of twine inside the fort and using clothespins, attach handwritten love notes for your sweetheart.\\nCreate a trail of candles leading up to the fort (do not place lit candles inside the fort; it may create a fire hazard).\\nMake a tray of your significant other's favorite snacks and have it waiting for them inside the fort.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Your fort doesn't have to come down right away. Leave it up for a week and enjoy reading, watching TV and taking naps inside.\\n\", \"Adding some aromatherapy to the room can help up the romantic ambiance, such as plants, essential oils or candles. Beware though––do not keep the candles near the fort - place safely on a surface where there is no chance of fabric touching the flames.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,420 |
How to Build a Low Cost Home Gym
|
1. Prioritizing and Planning
1-1. Measure the dimensions of your workout space.
Before you buy any equipment, you'll want to know how much room you have to store it in. Write down your measurements and have them on hand when you're shopping for supplies for your home gym.
If you're converting a small space into a home gym, keep in mind that you may not have room for a lot of big equipment. Try to prioritize which equipment is most important to you.
1-2. Decide what your fitness goals are.
Knowing your goals will help you make smarter choices when you're buying equipment. Write your goals down and organize them by exercise type (endurance, strength, balance, etc) so you know what kind of equipment you should be getting.
For example, if your goal is to work on your endurance, it may make sense for you to get a treadmill. But if you're only interested in building muscle, a treadmill probably isn't a good thing to spend your limited resources on.
1-3. Count the outlets in your workout space.
If you want to buy workout machines for your home gym, you'll need somewhere to plug them in. If your workout space only has one outlet, it may be a hassle if you have 3 different machines. Keep that in mind when you're doing your shopping.
1-4. Skip out on workout machines if you want to save more money.
Workout machines can be expensive, and it's possible to do most workouts at home using weights, resistance bands, and an exercise ball. You can also install a pull-up bar so you can workout your back muscles without large equipment.
If you feel like you need a workout machine, try to find one that's versatile so you get the most bang for your buck.
2. Buying for Cardio and Fitness
2-1. Seek out equipment-less exercise.
Particularly for cardio and general fitness, a lot can be accomplished with little financial investment. The web is full of useful guides to full, high-intensity cardio workouts which require no equipment. Yoga and pilates are two disciplines which practice exercise using next to no equipment.
2-2. Buy a foam roller.
One item that's accrued tremendous popularity in the past several years is the versatile foam roller. Basic, quality foam rollers can be found starting from $10. If you're looking for the even more cost-effective route, buy a length of PVC pipe at the hardware store and wrap it in a beach towel for a DIY foam roller.
2-3. Purchase an ab wheel.
Whether to help your back or to change things up, you may be wanting to move past crunches and planks when exercising your abdominal muscles. An ab wheel is a simple, one-step solution to this problem. A common item, you should be able to find one for less than $20.
2-4. Get a burst-resistant stability ball.
These balls are one of the most versatile items in all of fitness. They are excellent for abdominal work as they support the spine and isolate the stomach muscles. A stability ball works the abs better than a crunch or sit-up. These balls are highly versatile. The ball may even take the place of a bench in some exercises.
2-5. Consider splurging for a cardio machine.
Ideally this will be a stationary bike. Good quality stationary bikes can usually be found for only a couple of hundred dollars, whereas an equal quality treadmill might go well into the thousands. Stationary bikes are also adjustable, so you won't have to worry (as you would with an elliptical) about finding one that fits your body.
Keep an eye out for gyms going out of business. Usually they'll offload their equipment to the public, and there's usually no cheaper way of buying quality equipment.
3. Buying for Strength
3-1. Get a high quality adjustable bench.
If you can only go big on one item, have this be it. An adjustable bench will replace the need for an incline bench, a flat bench, and a decline bench. One adjustable bench will save you hundreds of dollars compared to buying all three single benches. An adjustable bench is highly versatile and can be used in almost any exercise.
If an adjustable bench is out of your price range, use an exercise ball instead.
3-2. Pick up a set or two of dumbbells.
Dumbbells have long been hailed as the better choice among strength training equipment. They are much smaller than large home gym machines and much cheaper. If you could only buy one thing to go towards strength training, this should be it. Dumbbells/free weights will always form the foundation of any budget home gym.
If you are already quite strong you should get the standard Olympic dumbbells, which weigh about 12lb (unloaded) and can be loaded with up to 200lbs each.
If you don't have the space to keep dumbbells, consider using resistance bands instead.
3-3. Make some sandbags.
If you happen to have spare construction materials this is a great way to make use of them. You'll also need an old duffel bag or exercise bags; fill either with sand or gravel and tape the opening up well. These can be used for any number of exercises which call for weight resistance.
3-4. Buy some resistance bands.
The simplest and lowest cost of strength equipment, you can switch dumbbells for resistance bands in any exercise that uses them. Find a place to anchor one side of the band and you can emulate any standing machine to work out whatever your other equipment has left lacking.
3-5. Build a pulling sled/tire.
A bit of a DIY endeavor, building a pull sled is a cost-effective way of building leg strength and general physicality. The most basic recipe calls for simply a tow rope and a large tire; attach one to the other and you're good to go. Other more involved plans will usually involve some welding.
3-6. Purchase a pull-up bar.
Usually they can be found for no more than $15 to $20. Make sure you have a sturdy door frame in your home on which to use it. Try to buy one that doubles as a bar to do tricep lifts and push-ups; having one of these bars makes it much easier on your wrists when doing push-ups.
3-7. Invest in an Olympic bar with bumper plates.
If you can afford it, this big purchase will bring your strength training up a level. Bumper plates are more durable compared to ordinary plates as they're rubber coated and allow to be dropped on the floor. Barbells allow mini increments in weight used from 100GMS-1KG. This is highly useful for the higher level lifters who are plateauing.
Keep in mind that an Olympic bar with bumper plates will take up a lot of space.
4. Making It Complete
4-1. Have it secluded.
While not a consideration for the budget, do your best to have your home gym in a place of little disturbance. This will aid tremendously in committing to your exercise by cutting down on distractions, encouraging you to focus on the task at hand. Regardless of how much you spend, don't spend it on stuff you'll end up not using. Having a special place for it all gives a proper home and makes it less likely to be labelled "clutter."
4-2. Don't skip the flooring.
Unless your home gym is floored with carpet, you should seriously consider buying some padded flooring, if only for a corner of the room. Necessary for yoga and other stretches, padded flooring is an advantage for all exercises. It will make most exercise much more comfortable by reducing the wear and tear faced by your knees and other joints.
4-3. Keep a TV or stereo in the room.
Take a cue from professional gyms and allow yourself a bit of distraction while working out. A television is doubly useful if you are a fan of exercise videos to follow along with. Music can also be an effective stimulant for your work-out; there have been studies linking music with the appropriate rhythm to longer-lasting work outs.
4-4. Consider buying wall mirrors.
More than just a cosmetic touch, having a mirror to watch yourself exercise is helpful in troubleshooting any problems of form. Since you'll most often be exercising alone in your home gym, you won't have a partner to advise on your technique.
Don't let looking good in the mirror drive your exercises, however. Be sure to target more than just the "show" muscles.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Prioritizing and Planning\\n1-1. Measure the dimensions of your workout space.\\nBefore you buy any equipment, you'll want to know how much room you have to store it in. Write down your measurements and have them on hand when you're shopping for supplies for your home gym.\\nIf you're converting a small space into a home gym, keep in mind that you may not have room for a lot of big equipment. Try to prioritize which equipment is most important to you.\\n1-2. Decide what your fitness goals are.\\nKnowing your goals will help you make smarter choices when you're buying equipment. Write your goals down and organize them by exercise type (endurance, strength, balance, etc) so you know what kind of equipment you should be getting.\\nFor example, if your goal is to work on your endurance, it may make sense for you to get a treadmill. But if you're only interested in building muscle, a treadmill probably isn't a good thing to spend your limited resources on.\\n1-3. Count the outlets in your workout space.\\nIf you want to buy workout machines for your home gym, you'll need somewhere to plug them in. If your workout space only has one outlet, it may be a hassle if you have 3 different machines. Keep that in mind when you're doing your shopping.\\n1-4. Skip out on workout machines if you want to save more money.\\nWorkout machines can be expensive, and it's possible to do most workouts at home using weights, resistance bands, and an exercise ball. You can also install a pull-up bar so you can workout your back muscles without large equipment.\\nIf you feel like you need a workout machine, try to find one that's versatile so you get the most bang for your buck.\\n2. Buying for Cardio and Fitness\\n2-1. Seek out equipment-less exercise.\\nParticularly for cardio and general fitness, a lot can be accomplished with little financial investment. The web is full of useful guides to full, high-intensity cardio workouts which require no equipment. Yoga and pilates are two disciplines which practice exercise using next to no equipment.\\n2-2. Buy a foam roller.\\nOne item that's accrued tremendous popularity in the past several years is the versatile foam roller. Basic, quality foam rollers can be found starting from $10. If you're looking for the even more cost-effective route, buy a length of PVC pipe at the hardware store and wrap it in a beach towel for a DIY foam roller.\\n2-3. Purchase an ab wheel.\\nWhether to help your back or to change things up, you may be wanting to move past crunches and planks when exercising your abdominal muscles. An ab wheel is a simple, one-step solution to this problem. A common item, you should be able to find one for less than $20.\\n2-4. Get a burst-resistant stability ball.\\nThese balls are one of the most versatile items in all of fitness. They are excellent for abdominal work as they support the spine and isolate the stomach muscles. A stability ball works the abs better than a crunch or sit-up. These balls are highly versatile. The ball may even take the place of a bench in some exercises.\\n2-5. Consider splurging for a cardio machine.\\nIdeally this will be a stationary bike. Good quality stationary bikes can usually be found for only a couple of hundred dollars, whereas an equal quality treadmill might go well into the thousands. Stationary bikes are also adjustable, so you won't have to worry (as you would with an elliptical) about finding one that fits your body.\\nKeep an eye out for gyms going out of business. Usually they'll offload their equipment to the public, and there's usually no cheaper way of buying quality equipment.\\n3. Buying for Strength\\n3-1. Get a high quality adjustable bench.\\nIf you can only go big on one item, have this be it. An adjustable bench will replace the need for an incline bench, a flat bench, and a decline bench. One adjustable bench will save you hundreds of dollars compared to buying all three single benches. An adjustable bench is highly versatile and can be used in almost any exercise.\\nIf an adjustable bench is out of your price range, use an exercise ball instead.\\n3-2. Pick up a set or two of dumbbells.\\nDumbbells have long been hailed as the better choice among strength training equipment. They are much smaller than large home gym machines and much cheaper. If you could only buy one thing to go towards strength training, this should be it. Dumbbells/free weights will always form the foundation of any budget home gym.\\nIf you are already quite strong you should get the standard Olympic dumbbells, which weigh about 12lb (unloaded) and can be loaded with up to 200lbs each.\\nIf you don't have the space to keep dumbbells, consider using resistance bands instead.\\n3-3. Make some sandbags.\\nIf you happen to have spare construction materials this is a great way to make use of them. You'll also need an old duffel bag or exercise bags; fill either with sand or gravel and tape the opening up well. These can be used for any number of exercises which call for weight resistance.\\n3-4. Buy some resistance bands.\\nThe simplest and lowest cost of strength equipment, you can switch dumbbells for resistance bands in any exercise that uses them. Find a place to anchor one side of the band and you can emulate any standing machine to work out whatever your other equipment has left lacking.\\n3-5. Build a pulling sled/tire.\\nA bit of a DIY endeavor, building a pull sled is a cost-effective way of building leg strength and general physicality. The most basic recipe calls for simply a tow rope and a large tire; attach one to the other and you're good to go. Other more involved plans will usually involve some welding.\\n3-6. Purchase a pull-up bar.\\nUsually they can be found for no more than $15 to $20. Make sure you have a sturdy door frame in your home on which to use it. Try to buy one that doubles as a bar to do tricep lifts and push-ups; having one of these bars makes it much easier on your wrists when doing push-ups.\\n3-7. Invest in an Olympic bar with bumper plates.\\nIf you can afford it, this big purchase will bring your strength training up a level. Bumper plates are more durable compared to ordinary plates as they're rubber coated and allow to be dropped on the floor. Barbells allow mini increments in weight used from 100GMS-1KG. This is highly useful for the higher level lifters who are plateauing.\\nKeep in mind that an Olympic bar with bumper plates will take up a lot of space.\\n4. Making It Complete\\n4-1. Have it secluded.\\nWhile not a consideration for the budget, do your best to have your home gym in a place of little disturbance. This will aid tremendously in committing to your exercise by cutting down on distractions, encouraging you to focus on the task at hand. Regardless of how much you spend, don't spend it on stuff you'll end up not using. Having a special place for it all gives a proper home and makes it less likely to be labelled \\\"clutter.\\\"\\n4-2. Don't skip the flooring.\\nUnless your home gym is floored with carpet, you should seriously consider buying some padded flooring, if only for a corner of the room. Necessary for yoga and other stretches, padded flooring is an advantage for all exercises. It will make most exercise much more comfortable by reducing the wear and tear faced by your knees and other joints.\\n4-3. Keep a TV or stereo in the room.\\nTake a cue from professional gyms and allow yourself a bit of distraction while working out. A television is doubly useful if you are a fan of exercise videos to follow along with. Music can also be an effective stimulant for your work-out; there have been studies linking music with the appropriate rhythm to longer-lasting work outs.\\n4-4. Consider buying wall mirrors.\\nMore than just a cosmetic touch, having a mirror to watch yourself exercise is helpful in troubleshooting any problems of form. Since you'll most often be exercising alone in your home gym, you won't have a partner to advise on your technique.\\nDon't let looking good in the mirror drive your exercises, however. Be sure to target more than just the \\\"show\\\" muscles.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Between costly gym memberships and expensive equipment, it seems more and more that exercise is becoming some sort of privilege. There is also the pressure to make any home gym as fancy and comprehensive as those that require a subscription. However, provided you're willing to accept some alternatives to your favorite equipment, having a home gym on the cheap is only a few hundred dollars (or less) away.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prioritizing and Planning\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the dimensions of your workout space.\", \"描述\": \"Before you buy any equipment, you'll want to know how much room you have to store it in. Write down your measurements and have them on hand when you're shopping for supplies for your home gym.\\nIf you're converting a small space into a home gym, keep in mind that you may not have room for a lot of big equipment. Try to prioritize which equipment is most important to you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide what your fitness goals are.\", \"描述\": \"Knowing your goals will help you make smarter choices when you're buying equipment. Write your goals down and organize them by exercise type (endurance, strength, balance, etc) so you know what kind of equipment you should be getting.\\nFor example, if your goal is to work on your endurance, it may make sense for you to get a treadmill. But if you're only interested in building muscle, a treadmill probably isn't a good thing to spend your limited resources on.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Count the outlets in your workout space.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to buy workout machines for your home gym, you'll need somewhere to plug them in. If your workout space only has one outlet, it may be a hassle if you have 3 different machines. Keep that in mind when you're doing your shopping.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Skip out on workout machines if you want to save more money.\", \"描述\": \"Workout machines can be expensive, and it's possible to do most workouts at home using weights, resistance bands, and an exercise ball. You can also install a pull-up bar so you can workout your back muscles without large equipment.\\nIf you feel like you need a workout machine, try to find one that's versatile so you get the most bang for your buck.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buying for Cardio and Fitness\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Seek out equipment-less exercise.\", \"描述\": \"Particularly for cardio and general fitness, a lot can be accomplished with little financial investment. The web is full of useful guides to full, high-intensity cardio workouts which require no equipment. Yoga and pilates are two disciplines which practice exercise using next to no equipment.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy a foam roller.\", \"描述\": \"One item that's accrued tremendous popularity in the past several years is the versatile foam roller. Basic, quality foam rollers can be found starting from $10. If you're looking for the even more cost-effective route, buy a length of PVC pipe at the hardware store and wrap it in a beach towel for a DIY foam roller.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase an ab wheel.\", \"描述\": \"Whether to help your back or to change things up, you may be wanting to move past crunches and planks when exercising your abdominal muscles. An ab wheel is a simple, one-step solution to this problem. A common item, you should be able to find one for less than $20.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get a burst-resistant stability ball.\", \"描述\": \"These balls are one of the most versatile items in all of fitness. They are excellent for abdominal work as they support the spine and isolate the stomach muscles. A stability ball works the abs better than a crunch or sit-up. These balls are highly versatile. The ball may even take the place of a bench in some exercises.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider splurging for a cardio machine.\", \"描述\": \"Ideally this will be a stationary bike. Good quality stationary bikes can usually be found for only a couple of hundred dollars, whereas an equal quality treadmill might go well into the thousands. Stationary bikes are also adjustable, so you won't have to worry (as you would with an elliptical) about finding one that fits your body.\\nKeep an eye out for gyms going out of business. Usually they'll offload their equipment to the public, and there's usually no cheaper way of buying quality equipment.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Buying for Strength\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a high quality adjustable bench.\", \"描述\": \"If you can only go big on one item, have this be it. An adjustable bench will replace the need for an incline bench, a flat bench, and a decline bench. One adjustable bench will save you hundreds of dollars compared to buying all three single benches. An adjustable bench is highly versatile and can be used in almost any exercise.\\nIf an adjustable bench is out of your price range, use an exercise ball instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick up a set or two of dumbbells.\", \"描述\": \"Dumbbells have long been hailed as the better choice among strength training equipment. They are much smaller than large home gym machines and much cheaper. If you could only buy one thing to go towards strength training, this should be it. Dumbbells/free weights will always form the foundation of any budget home gym.\\nIf you are already quite strong you should get the standard Olympic dumbbells, which weigh about 12lb (unloaded) and can be loaded with up to 200lbs each.\\nIf you don't have the space to keep dumbbells, consider using resistance bands instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make some sandbags.\", \"描述\": \"If you happen to have spare construction materials this is a great way to make use of them. You'll also need an old duffel bag or exercise bags; fill either with sand or gravel and tape the opening up well. These can be used for any number of exercises which call for weight resistance.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Buy some resistance bands.\", \"描述\": \"The simplest and lowest cost of strength equipment, you can switch dumbbells for resistance bands in any exercise that uses them. Find a place to anchor one side of the band and you can emulate any standing machine to work out whatever your other equipment has left lacking.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build a pulling sled/tire.\", \"描述\": \"A bit of a DIY endeavor, building a pull sled is a cost-effective way of building leg strength and general physicality. The most basic recipe calls for simply a tow rope and a large tire; attach one to the other and you're good to go. Other more involved plans will usually involve some welding.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Purchase a pull-up bar.\", \"描述\": \"Usually they can be found for no more than $15 to $20. Make sure you have a sturdy door frame in your home on which to use it. Try to buy one that doubles as a bar to do tricep lifts and push-ups; having one of these bars makes it much easier on your wrists when doing push-ups.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Invest in an Olympic bar with bumper plates.\", \"描述\": \"If you can afford it, this big purchase will bring your strength training up a level. Bumper plates are more durable compared to ordinary plates as they're rubber coated and allow to be dropped on the floor. Barbells allow mini increments in weight used from 100GMS-1KG. This is highly useful for the higher level lifters who are plateauing.\\nKeep in mind that an Olympic bar with bumper plates will take up a lot of space.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Making It Complete\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Have it secluded.\", \"描述\": \"While not a consideration for the budget, do your best to have your home gym in a place of little disturbance. This will aid tremendously in committing to your exercise by cutting down on distractions, encouraging you to focus on the task at hand. Regardless of how much you spend, don't spend it on stuff you'll end up not using. Having a special place for it all gives a proper home and makes it less likely to be labelled \\\"clutter.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Don't skip the flooring.\", \"描述\": \"Unless your home gym is floored with carpet, you should seriously consider buying some padded flooring, if only for a corner of the room. Necessary for yoga and other stretches, padded flooring is an advantage for all exercises. It will make most exercise much more comfortable by reducing the wear and tear faced by your knees and other joints.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep a TV or stereo in the room.\", \"描述\": \"Take a cue from professional gyms and allow yourself a bit of distraction while working out. A television is doubly useful if you are a fan of exercise videos to follow along with. Music can also be an effective stimulant for your work-out; there have been studies linking music with the appropriate rhythm to longer-lasting work outs.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider buying wall mirrors.\", \"描述\": \"More than just a cosmetic touch, having a mirror to watch yourself exercise is helpful in troubleshooting any problems of form. Since you'll most often be exercising alone in your home gym, you won't have a partner to advise on your technique.\\nDon't let looking good in the mirror drive your exercises, however. Be sure to target more than just the \\\"show\\\" muscles.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,421 |
How to Build a Low Cost WiFi Antenna
|
1. Steps
1-1. Get a USB Wireless LAN adapter "dongle".
This small device, about the size of your thumb, provides WiFi capability to your computer. You will need this even if your computer has integrated wireless.
For best compatibility, get one that includes the 802.11b and 802.11g standard.
Check Google Commerce for good prices—simple ones, which are quite effective at close range, cost around $15 to $20USD.
The shape is important. For cost effectiveness, look for a small thumb-shaped device. Larger "squashed mouse" models (~$50-60USD) are generally more sensitive and powerful. Although they may be harder to mount, they perform better in more demanding setups.
1-2. Get a USB passive extension cable.
You want a Type A (male) to Type A (female )cable. (you can find these at the dollar store, your local computer store, or Radio Shack). This will connect the USB WiFi adapter to your computer's USB port.
The antenna is directional, so you'll need to position it so it has a direct line of sight view of the wireless access point. Make sure your cable is long enough to position it where you need, up to a maximum of 15 feet (4.6 m) (5m).
You can link multiple extension cables together if you need.
Active USB extenders (~$10USD) allow further cable runs, which may even allow elevated outdoor antenna placement.
1-3. Get a mesh-covered dish.
The easiest to use is an Asian "scoop" cooking utensil (shaped like a wok, but mesh) used to fry things—it's the perfect shape and conveniently comes with a long wooden handle!
Other options include sieves, steamers, pot lids, and lamp shades—as long as they are dish-shaped and metal. Any parabolic piece of metal mesh will work—bigger means a better signal, but harder to carry around.
Larger options include discarded DirectTV dishes or mesh covered umbrellas, and although these should give more signal boost, mounting difficulties and wind resistance tend to make about 12 inch (30 cm) (300mm) diameter the most practical.
Flexible stalk desk lamps allow these to be neatly mounted & positioned.
1-4. Assemble the system.
Attach the WiFi dongle and USB extension cable in the dish with twist-ties, tape, or hot melt glue.
You want the dongle at the focal point "hot spot" apex of the dish—radio signals come in and bounce toward the center, a few fingers above the surface of the dish.
The best dongle location spot can be found by simple experiment. One aiming method involves covering the dish with aluminum foil and watching it reflect sunshine—the spot with the most light is the dish's hot spot.
You may need a short support stick to get the dongle off the surface of the dish into this position.
Alternative support methods use string tied across the face of the dish like a spider web, hollowed out plastic garden hose fittings, or even chop sticks!
1-5. Plug in your antenna.
Insert the male end of the USB extension cable into your computer, and set that as your WiFi card using your network settings.
1-6. Aim your dish.
Locate the remote WiFi transmitter that you want to access.
Your WiFi antenna is very directional, so getting the aim right is important. Pointing the dish towards the remote antenna is the best place to start, although stray reflections from buildings etc may sometimes give good signals from unexpected directions.
You can use an inexpensive hand-held laser pointer to verify that you are aimed right at the wireless transmitter. It's great fun with your cat when you're done surfing the web!
1-7. Fine tune your dish.
Once you are connected, tune your dish by adjusting the position of the dongle while watching the signal meter on your computer.
A program like NetStumbler for Windows or KisMAC for the Macintosh can greatly help by giving you graphical readouts of signal strengths.
Compared with inbuilt WiFi adapters, which are usually down at desk level and can easily be screened by metal walls, partitions, vegetation, or your body, even a simple elevated "woki" setup like this can boost signals and extend ranges enormously!
Tips
There are many popular ways to enhance WiFi reception. Most methods involve collecting the microwave radio frequency (RF) signal and getting that into the computer WLAN card. Since RF is very weak, this may be fraught with complications involving tiny wires and accurate measurements plus costly, lossy, coax cable and connectors. The USB based approach puts the powered RF receiver (the dongle) smack into the dish's "sweet spot" and avoids that whole costly mess!
This approach is suitable for other microwave radio technologies with a dongle adapter—Bluetooth & ZigBee especially—but won't work for infrared or memory sticks.
To strengthen your connection, put a wall of tinfoil behind your router.
Warnings
Using "borrowed" bandwidth may by frowned on by the provider.
Some WLANs may be password-protected.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Get a USB Wireless LAN adapter \\\"dongle\\\".\\nThis small device, about the size of your thumb, provides WiFi capability to your computer. You will need this even if your computer has integrated wireless.\\nFor best compatibility, get one that includes the 802.11b and 802.11g standard.\\nCheck Google Commerce for good prices—simple ones, which are quite effective at close range, cost around $15 to $20USD.\\nThe shape is important. For cost effectiveness, look for a small thumb-shaped device. Larger \\\"squashed mouse\\\" models (~$50-60USD) are generally more sensitive and powerful. Although they may be harder to mount, they perform better in more demanding setups.\\n1-2. Get a USB passive extension cable.\\nYou want a Type A (male) to Type A (female )cable. (you can find these at the dollar store, your local computer store, or Radio Shack). This will connect the USB WiFi adapter to your computer's USB port.\\nThe antenna is directional, so you'll need to position it so it has a direct line of sight view of the wireless access point. Make sure your cable is long enough to position it where you need, up to a maximum of 15 feet (4.6 m) (5m).\\nYou can link multiple extension cables together if you need.\\nActive USB extenders (~$10USD) allow further cable runs, which may even allow elevated outdoor antenna placement.\\n1-3. Get a mesh-covered dish.\\nThe easiest to use is an Asian \\\"scoop\\\" cooking utensil (shaped like a wok, but mesh) used to fry things—it's the perfect shape and conveniently comes with a long wooden handle!\\nOther options include sieves, steamers, pot lids, and lamp shades—as long as they are dish-shaped and metal. Any parabolic piece of metal mesh will work—bigger means a better signal, but harder to carry around.\\nLarger options include discarded DirectTV dishes or mesh covered umbrellas, and although these should give more signal boost, mounting difficulties and wind resistance tend to make about 12 inch (30 cm) (300mm) diameter the most practical.\\nFlexible stalk desk lamps allow these to be neatly mounted & positioned.\\n1-4. Assemble the system.\\nAttach the WiFi dongle and USB extension cable in the dish with twist-ties, tape, or hot melt glue.\\nYou want the dongle at the focal point \\\"hot spot\\\" apex of the dish—radio signals come in and bounce toward the center, a few fingers above the surface of the dish.\\nThe best dongle location spot can be found by simple experiment. One aiming method involves covering the dish with aluminum foil and watching it reflect sunshine—the spot with the most light is the dish's hot spot.\\nYou may need a short support stick to get the dongle off the surface of the dish into this position.\\nAlternative support methods use string tied across the face of the dish like a spider web, hollowed out plastic garden hose fittings, or even chop sticks!\\n1-5. Plug in your antenna.\\nInsert the male end of the USB extension cable into your computer, and set that as your WiFi card using your network settings.\\n1-6. Aim your dish.\\nLocate the remote WiFi transmitter that you want to access.\\nYour WiFi antenna is very directional, so getting the aim right is important. Pointing the dish towards the remote antenna is the best place to start, although stray reflections from buildings etc may sometimes give good signals from unexpected directions.\\nYou can use an inexpensive hand-held laser pointer to verify that you are aimed right at the wireless transmitter. It's great fun with your cat when you're done surfing the web!\\n1-7. Fine tune your dish.\\nOnce you are connected, tune your dish by adjusting the position of the dongle while watching the signal meter on your computer.\\nA program like NetStumbler for Windows or KisMAC for the Macintosh can greatly help by giving you graphical readouts of signal strengths.\\nCompared with inbuilt WiFi adapters, which are usually down at desk level and can easily be screened by metal walls, partitions, vegetation, or your body, even a simple elevated \\\"woki\\\" setup like this can boost signals and extend ranges enormously!\\nTips\\nThere are many popular ways to enhance WiFi reception. Most methods involve collecting the microwave radio frequency (RF) signal and getting that into the computer WLAN card. Since RF is very weak, this may be fraught with complications involving tiny wires and accurate measurements plus costly, lossy, coax cable and connectors. The USB based approach puts the powered RF receiver (the dongle) smack into the dish's \\\"sweet spot\\\" and avoids that whole costly mess!\\nThis approach is suitable for other microwave radio technologies with a dongle adapter—Bluetooth & ZigBee especially—but won't work for infrared or memory sticks.\\nTo strengthen your connection, put a wall of tinfoil behind your router.\\nWarnings\\nUsing \\\"borrowed\\\" bandwidth may by frowned on by the provider.\\nSome WLANs may be password-protected.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Sometimes, your WiFi signal just doesn't reach where you want it to reach. You've seen wireless adapters at the store, but they can cost a lot more than you want to spend. We'll show you a way to build a directional WiFi antenna using off-the-shelf parts, no new software, and without opening your computer case. Get a significant signal boost for about $30USD.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a USB Wireless LAN adapter \\\"dongle\\\".\", \"描述\": \"This small device, about the size of your thumb, provides WiFi capability to your computer. You will need this even if your computer has integrated wireless.\\nFor best compatibility, get one that includes the 802.11b and 802.11g standard.\\nCheck Google Commerce for good prices—simple ones, which are quite effective at close range, cost around $15 to $20USD.\\nThe shape is important. For cost effectiveness, look for a small thumb-shaped device. Larger \\\"squashed mouse\\\" models (~$50-60USD) are generally more sensitive and powerful. Although they may be harder to mount, they perform better in more demanding setups.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get a USB passive extension cable.\", \"描述\": \"You want a Type A (male) to Type A (female )cable. (you can find these at the dollar store, your local computer store, or Radio Shack). This will connect the USB WiFi adapter to your computer's USB port.\\nThe antenna is directional, so you'll need to position it so it has a direct line of sight view of the wireless access point. Make sure your cable is long enough to position it where you need, up to a maximum of 15 feet (4.6 m) (5m).\\nYou can link multiple extension cables together if you need.\\nActive USB extenders (~$10USD) allow further cable runs, which may even allow elevated outdoor antenna placement.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get a mesh-covered dish.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest to use is an Asian \\\"scoop\\\" cooking utensil (shaped like a wok, but mesh) used to fry things—it's the perfect shape and conveniently comes with a long wooden handle!\\nOther options include sieves, steamers, pot lids, and lamp shades—as long as they are dish-shaped and metal. Any parabolic piece of metal mesh will work—bigger means a better signal, but harder to carry around.\\nLarger options include discarded DirectTV dishes or mesh covered umbrellas, and although these should give more signal boost, mounting difficulties and wind resistance tend to make about 12 inch (30 cm) (300mm) diameter the most practical.\\nFlexible stalk desk lamps allow these to be neatly mounted & positioned.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Assemble the system.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the WiFi dongle and USB extension cable in the dish with twist-ties, tape, or hot melt glue.\\nYou want the dongle at the focal point \\\"hot spot\\\" apex of the dish—radio signals come in and bounce toward the center, a few fingers above the surface of the dish.\\nThe best dongle location spot can be found by simple experiment. One aiming method involves covering the dish with aluminum foil and watching it reflect sunshine—the spot with the most light is the dish's hot spot.\\nYou may need a short support stick to get the dongle off the surface of the dish into this position.\\nAlternative support methods use string tied across the face of the dish like a spider web, hollowed out plastic garden hose fittings, or even chop sticks!\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Plug in your antenna.\", \"描述\": \"Insert the male end of the USB extension cable into your computer, and set that as your WiFi card using your network settings.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Aim your dish.\", \"描述\": \"Locate the remote WiFi transmitter that you want to access.\\nYour WiFi antenna is very directional, so getting the aim right is important. Pointing the dish towards the remote antenna is the best place to start, although stray reflections from buildings etc may sometimes give good signals from unexpected directions.\\nYou can use an inexpensive hand-held laser pointer to verify that you are aimed right at the wireless transmitter. It's great fun with your cat when you're done surfing the web!\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fine tune your dish.\", \"描述\": \"Once you are connected, tune your dish by adjusting the position of the dongle while watching the signal meter on your computer.\\nA program like NetStumbler for Windows or KisMAC for the Macintosh can greatly help by giving you graphical readouts of signal strengths.\\nCompared with inbuilt WiFi adapters, which are usually down at desk level and can easily be screened by metal walls, partitions, vegetation, or your body, even a simple elevated \\\"woki\\\" setup like this can boost signals and extend ranges enormously!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"There are many popular ways to enhance WiFi reception. Most methods involve collecting the microwave radio frequency (RF) signal and getting that into the computer WLAN card. Since RF is very weak, this may be fraught with complications involving tiny wires and accurate measurements plus costly, lossy, coax cable and connectors. The USB based approach puts the powered RF receiver (the dongle) smack into the dish's \\\"sweet spot\\\" and avoids that whole costly mess!\\n\", \"This approach is suitable for other microwave radio technologies with a dongle adapter—Bluetooth & ZigBee especially—but won't work for infrared or memory sticks.\\n\", \"To strengthen your connection, put a wall of tinfoil behind your router.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Using \\\"borrowed\\\" bandwidth may by frowned on by the provider.\\n\", \"Some WLANs may be password-protected.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,422 |
How to Build a Management Team
|
1. Evaluating Your Business Needs
1-1. Examine the state of your company.
Assessing the needs of your company is one of the most important things in building a good management team. Without this key assessment, you won’t know what sort of people you need to grow your company. Most importantly, assessing the state of your company will help you determine your management weaknesses and strengths.
1-2. Construct an organizational chart that focuses on manager responsibility.
Creating an organizational chart for your company will help you to identify which managers are responsible for which aspects of your business. You might find out that you have overlap or you are lacking key personnel to manage an aspect of your organization. Fundamentally, an organizational chart will help you visualize your company and get a better idea of where you have gaps in leadership.
1-3. Develop a strategic plan.
Without a strategic plan, you won’t know where your business will be in the short and long term, and as a result, you won’t know what sort of managers you’ll need to meet your goals. Once you’ve developed your strategic plan, you’ll be better able to identify your management team needs.
Determine the state of your business.
Plan where you want to be in 1, 5 and 10 years.
Decide what you need to do to get there. Does this involve expanding into a new market?
1-4. Understand your own weaknesses as a leader.
This is perhaps one of the most important steps in creating a successful management team. After all, the buck stops with you. You can’t know or do everything. Don’t see your weaknesses as a strength. Fundamentally, understanding your weaknesses and taking steps to remedy those weaknesses is actually a strength.
Spend some time reflecting on your own weaknesses to determine what sort of help you’ll need running your company.
If you lack sales skills, you will need a strong Sales Director on your team.
If accounting is not a strength, you will need a Chief Financial Officer or Finance Director.
Be willing to include managers who are better than you at certain things. You will need to put your ego aside for the sake of your business.
1-5. Request a professional assessment from people outside your organization.
It is very hard for people inside an organization to identify the organization’s strengths and weaknesses. This is for several reasons, but it’s often because we’re unable to critically evaluate ourselves. As a result, you should request an assessment from someone outside of your organization. This outside auditor might be able to identify weaknesses in your management team better than you.
Hire an outside consulting firm to assess your business and management team.
Survey your clients on your business.
Talk to colleagues and friends in your industry.
1-6. Get input from your people inside your organization.
Sometimes the people who best know the problems with an organization are those within it. Make a concerted effort to get input from your employees and partners about your company. Listening to a wide range of opinions will help you determine who you really need on your management team.
Create a way for anonymous feedback and constructive criticism within your organization.
Put together a board of advisors made up of senior managers and senior employees. Even if your business is small, having a group of advisors you can regularly rely on will help you streamline your management.
Regularly visit and talk to and listen to your employees – at all levels.
1-7. Assess your current management team.
This might seem like something you don't want to do, but in order to go forward, you need to assess your current team to see if they meet or exceed the skills and performance you need to meet your goals and achieve your strategic plan.
If a current manager does not measure up, consider letting them go, demoting them, or reassigning them to a position that better suits their skill set.
If current managers seem gifted and skilled but are in the wrong position, reassign them to positions that will allow them to use their talents the best.
Communicate with your managers throughout the assessment process, try to be transparent, and treat your managers with respect.
1-8. Create a list of positions you need to improve or create.
Using all of the information you’ve gathered, implement change and create the best management team possible for your organization. Don’t be afraid to let people go, demote people, have people switch positions, or even promote junior employees above more senior employees. Your goal is to create the best management team you can.
2. Recruiting Strong Team Members
2-1. Promote from within.
If you have a few employees who know your company well, consider which ones have leadership potential. Often times, people who already work in your company will make the best managers. Consider the qualifications of your current employees, and if you have someone who meets the criteria for a management position, promote them.
Communicate to your employees that you are restructuring your management team, and you are looking to promote or create new positions.
Approach current managers and see if they have any ideas about employees that are management material.
Talk to the employees who you think might make good members of your management team. Discuss their level of interest and your overall vision for the organization.
2-2. Recruit talented leaders in your industry.
Since you now know what areas of your company need stronger managers, you can focus on hiring talented individuals in your industry who have an expertise that you need. Search wide and make sure to advertise your search in a number of publications and outlets.
List job openings with major online job sites.
Advertise positions in trade journals and newspapers.
Communicate your need for new managers at conferences and to other business leaders you know personally.
Send someone to job fairs at college campuses, in your community, or at national conventions and conferences.
2-3. Find new managers through your existing social and professional networks.
Locating new managers through less public channels might be good if you have a small company and you know exactly what type of person you need. This way, you can personally recruit people you’ve met at conferences or through other channels, and you’ll be confident as to their abilities and their character.
Attend national conferences and conventions related to your industry and meet new people you might recruit.
Browse LinkedIn or other online professional networking sites for people you may know, or people who might be in your broader network.
Talk to other senior executives or business owners about your need. They might know someone who fits the position you’ll be hiring for.
2-4. Get help from a professional search firm.
If you have a good idea of the position you want to hire for, but no idea where to look, invest in the skills of a professional headhunter or executive recruiter. This service might result in your finding the exact type of candidate you need.
You’ll have to pay a fee to the search firm.
The search firm will tailor their search to your exact needs.
Search firms often draw on a much larger geographical area and on a larger pool of possible candidates than you might be able to reach on your own.
3. Training a Successful Management Team
3-1. Define each manager’s role clearly.
When hiring a new part of your management team or creating a new position, make sure that the individual’s role is defined clearly. There is nothing worse than having managers coming into conflict with each other. Taking care of this potential problem ahead of time will reduce the possibility of conflict in the future.
Explain your broader expectations for each manager as a member of your team.
Make sure managers have authority to act independently when they need.
Explicitly outline the nature of a manager’s job and responsibilities.
3-2. Build a company culture.
One of the most important things you’ll need to do is develop a culture within your organization that nurtures best practices, communication, and collaboration. This, though, can be very difficult to achieve, and will take substantial effort over time.
Explicitly outline your company’s core values to your employees. If you’re in service, you should include something like customer satisfaction. If you’re in manufacturing, you should name quality.
Lead by example. Leadership sets the tone of a company’s culture. Whatever your core values are, make sure you live them and demonstrate them every day to your employees and to your customers.
Nurture your employees and treat them as valuable members of a team. Employees won’t follow your lead if they don’t respect you, and if they feel you don’t respect them.
3-3. Foster communication between your employees.
Communication is perhaps the most important part of running a successful company. Your management team should communicate and make sure that your employees are communicating with each other.
Set up group meetings. Every month or two, you should have a meeting of your entire management team to discuss challenges and issues confronting your company.
Set up individualized meetings. Once you have your management team assembled, meet with your managers at least every couple of months to talk to them about the challenges and opportunities they face every day.
Set up socials every couple of months. Company sponsored picnics or baseball games are a great way for everyone to get to know each other and to open the lines of communication during off-hours. This will also help reinforce your company culture.
3-4. Promote an environment of respect.
Respect is key in creating a management team that successfully interacts with each other in order to grow the company. Managers who respect each other and the top leadership of the company are more likely to go above and beyond in order to fulfill their jobs.
Treat your managers the way you would want to be treated.
Offer competitive pay and bonuses for excellent work.
Listen to your managers when they have concerns or suggestions.
Explain your expectations. The members of your newly formed management team will need to understand clearly their roles and responsibilities.
3-5. Delegate the necessary tasks and responsibilities.
Do not be afraid to give up some of the things you have had to manage out of necessity. Once you’ve got your management team in place, let them do their jobs. After all, you hired them because you had faith in their intelligence and ability. Not relinquishing power and authority will only undermine everything you’ve tried to accomplish.
3-6. Give your management team the authority to do what they need to do.
Managers do not perform well if they have a lot of responsibility, but no authority. A good chief executive will observe their managers and assess their work periodically, rather than micromanage.
Trust your management team to make good decisions and oversee their respective departments properly.
Never micromanage. If you had enough faith to hire someone, let them do their job without interference.
Authority also includes proper resources (money and people).
More authority given to managers down the chain of leadership will enable managers to deal with problems quicker and take advantage of opportunities faster.
3-7. Establish clear objectives or S.M.A.R.T.
goals. Launching a management by objective plan that is clear and laid out to your managers will help build your management team by keeping everyone focused on common goals. A S.M.A.R.T plan will enable you to better assess your managers when the time comes. These goals are:
Specific. You need to describe the specific goals everyone should work to achieve.
Measurable. Your manager's work towards their individual and shared goals should be measurable, and they should understand those metrics.
Achievable. Your goals need to be achievable. They should not be goals that can only be achieved under the best circumstances or be merely aspirational.
Relevant. Your goals need to be related to the business strategy being implemented. Focus is key to achieving long term objectives.
Time-based. Your goals need to be set with a time frame in mind. For instance, if you hope to increase sales by 10%, your goal should be to increase sales by 10% in a year, not during some vague period of time.
3-8. Assess your management team, periodically.
Another important part of building a strong management team is to make sure that team is functioning all the time. Make sure to monitor your team and assess individual work and team collaboration regularly. This will let you know if your team is working well and succeeding.
Review reports of your managers on the goals you’ve laid out to them.
Meet with your team members constantly, not only if something is going wrong.
If a team member has demonstrated consistent success, reward and praise them. Criticize them in private, not in front of the rest of the team.
If a team member has failed at their job several times, consider replacing them or reassigning them.
Tips
Remember to hold out for people who are just the right fit for your management team. Hiring the wrong person at that level can be costly and disruptive to your business.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Evaluating Your Business Needs\\n1-1. Examine the state of your company.\\nAssessing the needs of your company is one of the most important things in building a good management team. Without this key assessment, you won’t know what sort of people you need to grow your company. Most importantly, assessing the state of your company will help you determine your management weaknesses and strengths.\\n1-2. Construct an organizational chart that focuses on manager responsibility.\\nCreating an organizational chart for your company will help you to identify which managers are responsible for which aspects of your business. You might find out that you have overlap or you are lacking key personnel to manage an aspect of your organization. Fundamentally, an organizational chart will help you visualize your company and get a better idea of where you have gaps in leadership.\\n1-3. Develop a strategic plan.\\nWithout a strategic plan, you won’t know where your business will be in the short and long term, and as a result, you won’t know what sort of managers you’ll need to meet your goals. Once you’ve developed your strategic plan, you’ll be better able to identify your management team needs.\\nDetermine the state of your business.\\nPlan where you want to be in 1, 5 and 10 years.\\nDecide what you need to do to get there. Does this involve expanding into a new market?\\n1-4. Understand your own weaknesses as a leader.\\nThis is perhaps one of the most important steps in creating a successful management team. After all, the buck stops with you. You can’t know or do everything. Don’t see your weaknesses as a strength. Fundamentally, understanding your weaknesses and taking steps to remedy those weaknesses is actually a strength. \\nSpend some time reflecting on your own weaknesses to determine what sort of help you’ll need running your company.\\nIf you lack sales skills, you will need a strong Sales Director on your team.\\nIf accounting is not a strength, you will need a Chief Financial Officer or Finance Director.\\nBe willing to include managers who are better than you at certain things. You will need to put your ego aside for the sake of your business.\\n1-5. Request a professional assessment from people outside your organization.\\nIt is very hard for people inside an organization to identify the organization’s strengths and weaknesses. This is for several reasons, but it’s often because we’re unable to critically evaluate ourselves. As a result, you should request an assessment from someone outside of your organization. This outside auditor might be able to identify weaknesses in your management team better than you. \\nHire an outside consulting firm to assess your business and management team.\\nSurvey your clients on your business.\\nTalk to colleagues and friends in your industry.\\n1-6. Get input from your people inside your organization.\\nSometimes the people who best know the problems with an organization are those within it. Make a concerted effort to get input from your employees and partners about your company. Listening to a wide range of opinions will help you determine who you really need on your management team.\\nCreate a way for anonymous feedback and constructive criticism within your organization.\\nPut together a board of advisors made up of senior managers and senior employees. Even if your business is small, having a group of advisors you can regularly rely on will help you streamline your management.\\nRegularly visit and talk to and listen to your employees – at all levels.\\n1-7. Assess your current management team.\\nThis might seem like something you don't want to do, but in order to go forward, you need to assess your current team to see if they meet or exceed the skills and performance you need to meet your goals and achieve your strategic plan.\\nIf a current manager does not measure up, consider letting them go, demoting them, or reassigning them to a position that better suits their skill set.\\nIf current managers seem gifted and skilled but are in the wrong position, reassign them to positions that will allow them to use their talents the best.\\nCommunicate with your managers throughout the assessment process, try to be transparent, and treat your managers with respect.\\n1-8. Create a list of positions you need to improve or create.\\nUsing all of the information you’ve gathered, implement change and create the best management team possible for your organization. Don’t be afraid to let people go, demote people, have people switch positions, or even promote junior employees above more senior employees. Your goal is to create the best management team you can.\\n2. Recruiting Strong Team Members\\n2-1. Promote from within.\\nIf you have a few employees who know your company well, consider which ones have leadership potential. Often times, people who already work in your company will make the best managers. Consider the qualifications of your current employees, and if you have someone who meets the criteria for a management position, promote them. \\nCommunicate to your employees that you are restructuring your management team, and you are looking to promote or create new positions.\\nApproach current managers and see if they have any ideas about employees that are management material.\\nTalk to the employees who you think might make good members of your management team. Discuss their level of interest and your overall vision for the organization.\\n2-2. Recruit talented leaders in your industry.\\nSince you now know what areas of your company need stronger managers, you can focus on hiring talented individuals in your industry who have an expertise that you need. Search wide and make sure to advertise your search in a number of publications and outlets.\\nList job openings with major online job sites.\\nAdvertise positions in trade journals and newspapers.\\nCommunicate your need for new managers at conferences and to other business leaders you know personally.\\nSend someone to job fairs at college campuses, in your community, or at national conventions and conferences.\\n2-3. Find new managers through your existing social and professional networks.\\nLocating new managers through less public channels might be good if you have a small company and you know exactly what type of person you need. This way, you can personally recruit people you’ve met at conferences or through other channels, and you’ll be confident as to their abilities and their character.\\nAttend national conferences and conventions related to your industry and meet new people you might recruit.\\nBrowse LinkedIn or other online professional networking sites for people you may know, or people who might be in your broader network.\\nTalk to other senior executives or business owners about your need. They might know someone who fits the position you’ll be hiring for.\\n2-4. Get help from a professional search firm.\\nIf you have a good idea of the position you want to hire for, but no idea where to look, invest in the skills of a professional headhunter or executive recruiter. This service might result in your finding the exact type of candidate you need.\\nYou’ll have to pay a fee to the search firm.\\nThe search firm will tailor their search to your exact needs.\\nSearch firms often draw on a much larger geographical area and on a larger pool of possible candidates than you might be able to reach on your own.\\n3. Training a Successful Management Team\\n3-1. Define each manager’s role clearly.\\nWhen hiring a new part of your management team or creating a new position, make sure that the individual’s role is defined clearly. There is nothing worse than having managers coming into conflict with each other. Taking care of this potential problem ahead of time will reduce the possibility of conflict in the future.\\nExplain your broader expectations for each manager as a member of your team.\\nMake sure managers have authority to act independently when they need.\\nExplicitly outline the nature of a manager’s job and responsibilities.\\n3-2. Build a company culture.\\nOne of the most important things you’ll need to do is develop a culture within your organization that nurtures best practices, communication, and collaboration. This, though, can be very difficult to achieve, and will take substantial effort over time.\\nExplicitly outline your company’s core values to your employees. If you’re in service, you should include something like customer satisfaction. If you’re in manufacturing, you should name quality.\\nLead by example. Leadership sets the tone of a company’s culture. Whatever your core values are, make sure you live them and demonstrate them every day to your employees and to your customers.\\nNurture your employees and treat them as valuable members of a team. Employees won’t follow your lead if they don’t respect you, and if they feel you don’t respect them.\\n3-3. Foster communication between your employees.\\nCommunication is perhaps the most important part of running a successful company. Your management team should communicate and make sure that your employees are communicating with each other.\\nSet up group meetings. Every month or two, you should have a meeting of your entire management team to discuss challenges and issues confronting your company.\\nSet up individualized meetings. Once you have your management team assembled, meet with your managers at least every couple of months to talk to them about the challenges and opportunities they face every day.\\nSet up socials every couple of months. Company sponsored picnics or baseball games are a great way for everyone to get to know each other and to open the lines of communication during off-hours. This will also help reinforce your company culture.\\n3-4. Promote an environment of respect.\\nRespect is key in creating a management team that successfully interacts with each other in order to grow the company. Managers who respect each other and the top leadership of the company are more likely to go above and beyond in order to fulfill their jobs. \\nTreat your managers the way you would want to be treated.\\nOffer competitive pay and bonuses for excellent work.\\nListen to your managers when they have concerns or suggestions.\\nExplain your expectations. The members of your newly formed management team will need to understand clearly their roles and responsibilities.\\n3-5. Delegate the necessary tasks and responsibilities.\\nDo not be afraid to give up some of the things you have had to manage out of necessity. Once you’ve got your management team in place, let them do their jobs. After all, you hired them because you had faith in their intelligence and ability. Not relinquishing power and authority will only undermine everything you’ve tried to accomplish.\\n3-6. Give your management team the authority to do what they need to do.\\nManagers do not perform well if they have a lot of responsibility, but no authority. A good chief executive will observe their managers and assess their work periodically, rather than micromanage.\\nTrust your management team to make good decisions and oversee their respective departments properly.\\nNever micromanage. If you had enough faith to hire someone, let them do their job without interference.\\nAuthority also includes proper resources (money and people).\\nMore authority given to managers down the chain of leadership will enable managers to deal with problems quicker and take advantage of opportunities faster.\\n3-7. Establish clear objectives or S.M.A.R.T.\\ngoals. Launching a management by objective plan that is clear and laid out to your managers will help build your management team by keeping everyone focused on common goals. A S.M.A.R.T plan will enable you to better assess your managers when the time comes. These goals are:\\nSpecific. You need to describe the specific goals everyone should work to achieve.\\nMeasurable. Your manager's work towards their individual and shared goals should be measurable, and they should understand those metrics.\\nAchievable. Your goals need to be achievable. They should not be goals that can only be achieved under the best circumstances or be merely aspirational.\\nRelevant. Your goals need to be related to the business strategy being implemented. Focus is key to achieving long term objectives.\\nTime-based. Your goals need to be set with a time frame in mind. For instance, if you hope to increase sales by 10%, your goal should be to increase sales by 10% in a year, not during some vague period of time.\\n3-8. Assess your management team, periodically.\\nAnother important part of building a strong management team is to make sure that team is functioning all the time. Make sure to monitor your team and assess individual work and team collaboration regularly. This will let you know if your team is working well and succeeding. \\nReview reports of your managers on the goals you’ve laid out to them.\\nMeet with your team members constantly, not only if something is going wrong.\\nIf a team member has demonstrated consistent success, reward and praise them. Criticize them in private, not in front of the rest of the team.\\nIf a team member has failed at their job several times, consider replacing them or reassigning them.\\nTips\\nRemember to hold out for people who are just the right fit for your management team. Hiring the wrong person at that level can be costly and disruptive to your business.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Having a strong and effective management team in place is essential for the growth and success of any company. As the founder of a small business or a newly appointed executive of an established company, you know you cannot do everything on your own, and you will need a skilled group of experts who can help you run the company. Build a management team by assessing which skills and talents you need, recruiting leaders to work with you and giving them the authority and flexibility to make decisions for your business.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Evaluating Your Business Needs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Examine the state of your company.\", \"描述\": \"Assessing the needs of your company is one of the most important things in building a good management team. Without this key assessment, you won’t know what sort of people you need to grow your company. Most importantly, assessing the state of your company will help you determine your management weaknesses and strengths.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Construct an organizational chart that focuses on manager responsibility.\", \"描述\": \"Creating an organizational chart for your company will help you to identify which managers are responsible for which aspects of your business. You might find out that you have overlap or you are lacking key personnel to manage an aspect of your organization. Fundamentally, an organizational chart will help you visualize your company and get a better idea of where you have gaps in leadership.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Develop a strategic plan.\", \"描述\": \"Without a strategic plan, you won’t know where your business will be in the short and long term, and as a result, you won’t know what sort of managers you’ll need to meet your goals. Once you’ve developed your strategic plan, you’ll be better able to identify your management team needs.\\nDetermine the state of your business.\\nPlan where you want to be in 1, 5 and 10 years.\\nDecide what you need to do to get there. Does this involve expanding into a new market?\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Understand your own weaknesses as a leader.\", \"描述\": \"This is perhaps one of the most important steps in creating a successful management team. After all, the buck stops with you. You can’t know or do everything. Don’t see your weaknesses as a strength. Fundamentally, understanding your weaknesses and taking steps to remedy those weaknesses is actually a strength. \\nSpend some time reflecting on your own weaknesses to determine what sort of help you’ll need running your company.\\nIf you lack sales skills, you will need a strong Sales Director on your team.\\nIf accounting is not a strength, you will need a Chief Financial Officer or Finance Director.\\nBe willing to include managers who are better than you at certain things. You will need to put your ego aside for the sake of your business.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Request a professional assessment from people outside your organization.\", \"描述\": \"It is very hard for people inside an organization to identify the organization’s strengths and weaknesses. This is for several reasons, but it’s often because we’re unable to critically evaluate ourselves. As a result, you should request an assessment from someone outside of your organization. This outside auditor might be able to identify weaknesses in your management team better than you. \\nHire an outside consulting firm to assess your business and management team.\\nSurvey your clients on your business.\\nTalk to colleagues and friends in your industry.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Get input from your people inside your organization.\", \"描述\": \"Sometimes the people who best know the problems with an organization are those within it. Make a concerted effort to get input from your employees and partners about your company. Listening to a wide range of opinions will help you determine who you really need on your management team.\\nCreate a way for anonymous feedback and constructive criticism within your organization.\\nPut together a board of advisors made up of senior managers and senior employees. Even if your business is small, having a group of advisors you can regularly rely on will help you streamline your management.\\nRegularly visit and talk to and listen to your employees – at all levels.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Assess your current management team.\", \"描述\": \"This might seem like something you don't want to do, but in order to go forward, you need to assess your current team to see if they meet or exceed the skills and performance you need to meet your goals and achieve your strategic plan.\\nIf a current manager does not measure up, consider letting them go, demoting them, or reassigning them to a position that better suits their skill set.\\nIf current managers seem gifted and skilled but are in the wrong position, reassign them to positions that will allow them to use their talents the best.\\nCommunicate with your managers throughout the assessment process, try to be transparent, and treat your managers with respect.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Create a list of positions you need to improve or create.\", \"描述\": \"Using all of the information you’ve gathered, implement change and create the best management team possible for your organization. Don’t be afraid to let people go, demote people, have people switch positions, or even promote junior employees above more senior employees. Your goal is to create the best management team you can.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Recruiting Strong Team Members\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Promote from within.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a few employees who know your company well, consider which ones have leadership potential. Often times, people who already work in your company will make the best managers. Consider the qualifications of your current employees, and if you have someone who meets the criteria for a management position, promote them. \\nCommunicate to your employees that you are restructuring your management team, and you are looking to promote or create new positions.\\nApproach current managers and see if they have any ideas about employees that are management material.\\nTalk to the employees who you think might make good members of your management team. Discuss their level of interest and your overall vision for the organization.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Recruit talented leaders in your industry.\", \"描述\": \"Since you now know what areas of your company need stronger managers, you can focus on hiring talented individuals in your industry who have an expertise that you need. Search wide and make sure to advertise your search in a number of publications and outlets.\\nList job openings with major online job sites.\\nAdvertise positions in trade journals and newspapers.\\nCommunicate your need for new managers at conferences and to other business leaders you know personally.\\nSend someone to job fairs at college campuses, in your community, or at national conventions and conferences.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find new managers through your existing social and professional networks.\", \"描述\": \"Locating new managers through less public channels might be good if you have a small company and you know exactly what type of person you need. This way, you can personally recruit people you’ve met at conferences or through other channels, and you’ll be confident as to their abilities and their character.\\nAttend national conferences and conventions related to your industry and meet new people you might recruit.\\nBrowse LinkedIn or other online professional networking sites for people you may know, or people who might be in your broader network.\\nTalk to other senior executives or business owners about your need. They might know someone who fits the position you’ll be hiring for.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get help from a professional search firm.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a good idea of the position you want to hire for, but no idea where to look, invest in the skills of a professional headhunter or executive recruiter. This service might result in your finding the exact type of candidate you need.\\nYou’ll have to pay a fee to the search firm.\\nThe search firm will tailor their search to your exact needs.\\nSearch firms often draw on a much larger geographical area and on a larger pool of possible candidates than you might be able to reach on your own.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Training a Successful Management Team\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Define each manager’s role clearly.\", \"描述\": \"When hiring a new part of your management team or creating a new position, make sure that the individual’s role is defined clearly. There is nothing worse than having managers coming into conflict with each other. Taking care of this potential problem ahead of time will reduce the possibility of conflict in the future.\\nExplain your broader expectations for each manager as a member of your team.\\nMake sure managers have authority to act independently when they need.\\nExplicitly outline the nature of a manager’s job and responsibilities.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a company culture.\", \"描述\": \"One of the most important things you’ll need to do is develop a culture within your organization that nurtures best practices, communication, and collaboration. This, though, can be very difficult to achieve, and will take substantial effort over time.\\nExplicitly outline your company’s core values to your employees. If you’re in service, you should include something like customer satisfaction. If you’re in manufacturing, you should name quality.\\nLead by example. Leadership sets the tone of a company’s culture. Whatever your core values are, make sure you live them and demonstrate them every day to your employees and to your customers.\\nNurture your employees and treat them as valuable members of a team. Employees won’t follow your lead if they don’t respect you, and if they feel you don’t respect them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Foster communication between your employees.\", \"描述\": \"Communication is perhaps the most important part of running a successful company. Your management team should communicate and make sure that your employees are communicating with each other.\\nSet up group meetings. Every month or two, you should have a meeting of your entire management team to discuss challenges and issues confronting your company.\\nSet up individualized meetings. Once you have your management team assembled, meet with your managers at least every couple of months to talk to them about the challenges and opportunities they face every day.\\nSet up socials every couple of months. Company sponsored picnics or baseball games are a great way for everyone to get to know each other and to open the lines of communication during off-hours. This will also help reinforce your company culture.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Promote an environment of respect.\", \"描述\": \"Respect is key in creating a management team that successfully interacts with each other in order to grow the company. Managers who respect each other and the top leadership of the company are more likely to go above and beyond in order to fulfill their jobs. \\nTreat your managers the way you would want to be treated.\\nOffer competitive pay and bonuses for excellent work.\\nListen to your managers when they have concerns or suggestions.\\nExplain your expectations. The members of your newly formed management team will need to understand clearly their roles and responsibilities.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Delegate the necessary tasks and responsibilities.\", \"描述\": \"Do not be afraid to give up some of the things you have had to manage out of necessity. Once you’ve got your management team in place, let them do their jobs. After all, you hired them because you had faith in their intelligence and ability. Not relinquishing power and authority will only undermine everything you’ve tried to accomplish.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Give your management team the authority to do what they need to do.\", \"描述\": \"Managers do not perform well if they have a lot of responsibility, but no authority. A good chief executive will observe their managers and assess their work periodically, rather than micromanage.\\nTrust your management team to make good decisions and oversee their respective departments properly.\\nNever micromanage. If you had enough faith to hire someone, let them do their job without interference.\\nAuthority also includes proper resources (money and people).\\nMore authority given to managers down the chain of leadership will enable managers to deal with problems quicker and take advantage of opportunities faster.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Establish clear objectives or S.M.A.R.T.\", \"描述\": \"goals. Launching a management by objective plan that is clear and laid out to your managers will help build your management team by keeping everyone focused on common goals. A S.M.A.R.T plan will enable you to better assess your managers when the time comes. These goals are:\\nSpecific. You need to describe the specific goals everyone should work to achieve.\\nMeasurable. Your manager's work towards their individual and shared goals should be measurable, and they should understand those metrics.\\nAchievable. Your goals need to be achievable. They should not be goals that can only be achieved under the best circumstances or be merely aspirational.\\nRelevant. Your goals need to be related to the business strategy being implemented. Focus is key to achieving long term objectives.\\nTime-based. Your goals need to be set with a time frame in mind. For instance, if you hope to increase sales by 10%, your goal should be to increase sales by 10% in a year, not during some vague period of time.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Assess your management team, periodically.\", \"描述\": \"Another important part of building a strong management team is to make sure that team is functioning all the time. Make sure to monitor your team and assess individual work and team collaboration regularly. This will let you know if your team is working well and succeeding. \\nReview reports of your managers on the goals you’ve laid out to them.\\nMeet with your team members constantly, not only if something is going wrong.\\nIf a team member has demonstrated consistent success, reward and praise them. Criticize them in private, not in front of the rest of the team.\\nIf a team member has failed at their job several times, consider replacing them or reassigning them.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Remember to hold out for people who are just the right fit for your management team. Hiring the wrong person at that level can be costly and disruptive to your business.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,423 |
How to Build a Mason Jar Herb Garden
|
1. Filling the Jars
1-1. Get a set of mason jars that are at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep.
Ordinary glass mason jars can be purchased inexpensively at most supermarkets and home good stores. Pick up as many jars as you think you’ll need to contain a garden of the size you have in mind. Mason jars are often sold in sets, which can simplify the process of collecting them.
Most mason jars come in either quart or pint sizes, which can be useful if you’re planning on growing more of one type of herb than another.
You might also take a more thrifty approach by repurposing the jars from pickles, jellies and pasta sauces.
1-2. Cover the bottom of each jar with a thin layer of stones.
Excess water can cause the delicate roots of most herbs to rot. Since the solid glass bottoms of the jars don’t provide any openings for runoff, a couple inches of small stones will allow water to settle out of the reach of the roots, making sure they absorb just the right amount.
Gravel, cork shavings or even glass marbles can also be used to create the first layer of your mason jar planters.
Mix in a small amount of sand to fill in the spaces between the stones and keep the soil from shifting.
1-3. Fill the jars with potting soil.
Scoop the soil into the opening of the jars, stopping when they’re about three quarters of the way full. This will give you a little extra space to work with when it comes time to plant the herb seeds and give them room to stretch out as they grow.
Try not to pack the soil too tight—it needs to be somewhat loose in order for water and nutrients to penetrate down to the roots with ease.
Use a thin dowel or the tines of a fork to aerate the soil periodically.
2. Planting the Herbs
2-1. Sprinkle new seeds onto the top of the soil.
Keep the seeds confined to the area near the center so their growth won’t be checked by the walls of the jar. Only scatter a small pinch of seeds in each container. If you’re planning on growing large quantities of a particular type of herb, you’ll be better off using multiple jars.
If you’re replanting seedlings that have already begun sprouting, make sure you position them with their roots pointing at a downward angle to the soil.
You have a wide range of possible herbs to choose from, including cilantro, mint, chives, sage, rosemary, marjoram, parsley and lemongrass.
2-2. Transplant mature herbs with care.
You can also use the mason jars to continue cultivating herbs that are fully-grown. Just make sure to burrow the roots into the soil so they’ll be able to properly take hold. Packing the soil tightly around the base of the herbs will help keep them anchored in place.
Try to minimize the amount of time that the roots are exposed to the air.
Water the transplanted herbs using a spray bottle as soon as you’ve potted them.
2-3. Spread more soil over the newly planted herbs.
Once the seeds or mature herbs are in the jars, cover them with an additional half inch of soil. Tamp the new layer lightly to provide a more stable base.
Don’t smother the herbs with too much soil. This can make it more difficult for them to sprout.
Alternatively, blanket new seeds with a thin layer of mulch or starting mix to help them along.
2-4. Label the jars individually.
Without labels, it can be difficult to keep track of what’s in the different jars, especially when they’re all bunched together. As a precaution, identify each jar separately in case they happen to get mixed up or moved around.
Choose from stylish premade labels to customize the look of your garden, or simply mark a strip of masking tape.
Grouping similar types of herbs together can help ensure that they’re subjected to consistent growing conditions.
2-5. Find a creative way to display your garden.
Rather than simply setting the mason jars on a ledge, think of how you can be more expressive with their presentation. You might line them up in a narrow tray where you can keep them organized, or suspend them in a crafty macrame weave. Whatever you decide on, make sure the jars won't fall or get knocked over, and that nothing is in the way to prevent the plants from receiving water and sunlight.
Another idea is to attached the jars to a separate board and mount them on the wall, where you can label them plainly and keep an eye on their growth and development.
If you're planning on keeping your garden outside, try arranging the herbs in a wooden trough or the bed of an empty wheelbarrow to create a quaint, eye-catching bit of decoration.
3. Cultivating and Using Your Herbs
3-1. Place the herbs where they can receive plenty of sunlight.
A window sill or low shelf in an open area can be a good place to leave them. As a general rule, your herbs should get at least six hours of sunlight a day in order to flourish.
Move the jars around as needed to keep them exposed to direct sunlight. Too much or too little shade can stunt the growth of young plants.
For those short, dark winter days, it can help to have a secondary light source, like a grow light or heating lamp.
3-2. Water the herbs regularly using a spray bottle.
Once your herbs have begun to sprout, they’ll only need enough water to dampen the uppermost layer of soil. Wait until the soil is dry to the touch before watering them again. Try not to oversaturate the plants, as too much moisture can kill them off.
Some herbs, like basil and mint, require more frequent moisture. Other, more delicate varieties such as lavender should be given time to dry out between waterings.
Fill a spray bottle with fresh water and mist the herbs at soil level once or twice a day. The gentle dispersion will help you avoid overwatering.
3-3. Use fresh herbs in your favorite recipes.
Anytime you think a dish could benefit from an infusion of flavor, you’ll have a supply of potent and savory herbs at the ready. Snip the herbs close to the stems with a pair of sharp scissors, removing only as much as you plan on using. For recipes that call for an abundance of a certain herb, take cuttings from multiple plants to ensure that there’s enough left to grow back.
If you have herbs leftover, you can sandwich them between a layer of damp paper towels, slide them into an airtight plastic bag and store them in the refrigerator.
Even though the herbs have been grown naturally, it’s still a good idea to wash them before incorporating them into food.
Tips
Embellish your mason jar planters with hand-painted designs or a length of decorative twine or ribbon.
Select herbs that are best suited for growing in the unique climate in which you live.
Change your lineup of herbs according to season so they’ll always be available at the peak of freshness.
Warnings
Be careful not to overwater your herbs. Given the small size of the potting containers, this can be deceptively easy. Add just enough moisture to thoroughly wet the base of the plant, then re-water once the surface of the soil has dried to the touch.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Filling the Jars\\n1-1. Get a set of mason jars that are at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep.\\nOrdinary glass mason jars can be purchased inexpensively at most supermarkets and home good stores. Pick up as many jars as you think you’ll need to contain a garden of the size you have in mind. Mason jars are often sold in sets, which can simplify the process of collecting them.\\nMost mason jars come in either quart or pint sizes, which can be useful if you’re planning on growing more of one type of herb than another.\\nYou might also take a more thrifty approach by repurposing the jars from pickles, jellies and pasta sauces.\\n1-2. Cover the bottom of each jar with a thin layer of stones.\\nExcess water can cause the delicate roots of most herbs to rot. Since the solid glass bottoms of the jars don’t provide any openings for runoff, a couple inches of small stones will allow water to settle out of the reach of the roots, making sure they absorb just the right amount.\\nGravel, cork shavings or even glass marbles can also be used to create the first layer of your mason jar planters.\\nMix in a small amount of sand to fill in the spaces between the stones and keep the soil from shifting.\\n1-3. Fill the jars with potting soil.\\nScoop the soil into the opening of the jars, stopping when they’re about three quarters of the way full. This will give you a little extra space to work with when it comes time to plant the herb seeds and give them room to stretch out as they grow.\\nTry not to pack the soil too tight—it needs to be somewhat loose in order for water and nutrients to penetrate down to the roots with ease.\\nUse a thin dowel or the tines of a fork to aerate the soil periodically.\\n2. Planting the Herbs\\n2-1. Sprinkle new seeds onto the top of the soil.\\nKeep the seeds confined to the area near the center so their growth won’t be checked by the walls of the jar. Only scatter a small pinch of seeds in each container. If you’re planning on growing large quantities of a particular type of herb, you’ll be better off using multiple jars.\\nIf you’re replanting seedlings that have already begun sprouting, make sure you position them with their roots pointing at a downward angle to the soil.\\nYou have a wide range of possible herbs to choose from, including cilantro, mint, chives, sage, rosemary, marjoram, parsley and lemongrass.\\n2-2. Transplant mature herbs with care.\\nYou can also use the mason jars to continue cultivating herbs that are fully-grown. Just make sure to burrow the roots into the soil so they’ll be able to properly take hold. Packing the soil tightly around the base of the herbs will help keep them anchored in place.\\nTry to minimize the amount of time that the roots are exposed to the air.\\nWater the transplanted herbs using a spray bottle as soon as you’ve potted them.\\n2-3. Spread more soil over the newly planted herbs.\\nOnce the seeds or mature herbs are in the jars, cover them with an additional half inch of soil. Tamp the new layer lightly to provide a more stable base. \\nDon’t smother the herbs with too much soil. This can make it more difficult for them to sprout.\\nAlternatively, blanket new seeds with a thin layer of mulch or starting mix to help them along.\\n2-4. Label the jars individually.\\nWithout labels, it can be difficult to keep track of what’s in the different jars, especially when they’re all bunched together. As a precaution, identify each jar separately in case they happen to get mixed up or moved around. \\nChoose from stylish premade labels to customize the look of your garden, or simply mark a strip of masking tape.\\nGrouping similar types of herbs together can help ensure that they’re subjected to consistent growing conditions.\\n2-5. Find a creative way to display your garden.\\nRather than simply setting the mason jars on a ledge, think of how you can be more expressive with their presentation. You might line them up in a narrow tray where you can keep them organized, or suspend them in a crafty macrame weave. Whatever you decide on, make sure the jars won't fall or get knocked over, and that nothing is in the way to prevent the plants from receiving water and sunlight.\\nAnother idea is to attached the jars to a separate board and mount them on the wall, where you can label them plainly and keep an eye on their growth and development.\\nIf you're planning on keeping your garden outside, try arranging the herbs in a wooden trough or the bed of an empty wheelbarrow to create a quaint, eye-catching bit of decoration.\\n3. Cultivating and Using Your Herbs\\n3-1. Place the herbs where they can receive plenty of sunlight.\\nA window sill or low shelf in an open area can be a good place to leave them. As a general rule, your herbs should get at least six hours of sunlight a day in order to flourish.\\nMove the jars around as needed to keep them exposed to direct sunlight. Too much or too little shade can stunt the growth of young plants.\\nFor those short, dark winter days, it can help to have a secondary light source, like a grow light or heating lamp.\\n3-2. Water the herbs regularly using a spray bottle.\\nOnce your herbs have begun to sprout, they’ll only need enough water to dampen the uppermost layer of soil. Wait until the soil is dry to the touch before watering them again. Try not to oversaturate the plants, as too much moisture can kill them off.\\nSome herbs, like basil and mint, require more frequent moisture. Other, more delicate varieties such as lavender should be given time to dry out between waterings.\\nFill a spray bottle with fresh water and mist the herbs at soil level once or twice a day. The gentle dispersion will help you avoid overwatering.\\n3-3. Use fresh herbs in your favorite recipes.\\nAnytime you think a dish could benefit from an infusion of flavor, you’ll have a supply of potent and savory herbs at the ready. Snip the herbs close to the stems with a pair of sharp scissors, removing only as much as you plan on using. For recipes that call for an abundance of a certain herb, take cuttings from multiple plants to ensure that there’s enough left to grow back.\\nIf you have herbs leftover, you can sandwich them between a layer of damp paper towels, slide them into an airtight plastic bag and store them in the refrigerator.\\nEven though the herbs have been grown naturally, it’s still a good idea to wash them before incorporating them into food.\\nTips\\nEmbellish your mason jar planters with hand-painted designs or a length of decorative twine or ribbon.\\nSelect herbs that are best suited for growing in the unique climate in which you live.\\nChange your lineup of herbs according to season so they’ll always be available at the peak of freshness.\\nWarnings\\nBe careful not to overwater your herbs. Given the small size of the potting containers, this can be deceptively easy. Add just enough moisture to thoroughly wet the base of the plant, then re-water once the surface of the soil has dried to the touch.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you’re tired of digging in your refrigerator or braving the elements every time you want to enjoy fresh herbs, it might be time to come up with a craftier solution. Planting your herbs in mason jars of various sizes is a great way to cultivate them indoors, where you can keep an eye on their progress and better regulate their growing conditions. It’s also an incredibly easy DIY project that can be completed in just a few minutes, but will save you loads of time and energy down the line. To start your own miniature garden of greens, you’ll need a set of mason jars, some potting soil, seedling samples of your favorite herbs and a little bit of patience.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Filling the Jars\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a set of mason jars that are at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep.\", \"描述\": \"Ordinary glass mason jars can be purchased inexpensively at most supermarkets and home good stores. Pick up as many jars as you think you’ll need to contain a garden of the size you have in mind. Mason jars are often sold in sets, which can simplify the process of collecting them.\\nMost mason jars come in either quart or pint sizes, which can be useful if you’re planning on growing more of one type of herb than another.\\nYou might also take a more thrifty approach by repurposing the jars from pickles, jellies and pasta sauces.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cover the bottom of each jar with a thin layer of stones.\", \"描述\": \"Excess water can cause the delicate roots of most herbs to rot. Since the solid glass bottoms of the jars don’t provide any openings for runoff, a couple inches of small stones will allow water to settle out of the reach of the roots, making sure they absorb just the right amount.\\nGravel, cork shavings or even glass marbles can also be used to create the first layer of your mason jar planters.\\nMix in a small amount of sand to fill in the spaces between the stones and keep the soil from shifting.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill the jars with potting soil.\", \"描述\": \"Scoop the soil into the opening of the jars, stopping when they’re about three quarters of the way full. This will give you a little extra space to work with when it comes time to plant the herb seeds and give them room to stretch out as they grow.\\nTry not to pack the soil too tight—it needs to be somewhat loose in order for water and nutrients to penetrate down to the roots with ease.\\nUse a thin dowel or the tines of a fork to aerate the soil periodically.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Planting the Herbs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sprinkle new seeds onto the top of the soil.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the seeds confined to the area near the center so their growth won’t be checked by the walls of the jar. Only scatter a small pinch of seeds in each container. If you’re planning on growing large quantities of a particular type of herb, you’ll be better off using multiple jars.\\nIf you’re replanting seedlings that have already begun sprouting, make sure you position them with their roots pointing at a downward angle to the soil.\\nYou have a wide range of possible herbs to choose from, including cilantro, mint, chives, sage, rosemary, marjoram, parsley and lemongrass.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Transplant mature herbs with care.\", \"描述\": \"You can also use the mason jars to continue cultivating herbs that are fully-grown. Just make sure to burrow the roots into the soil so they’ll be able to properly take hold. Packing the soil tightly around the base of the herbs will help keep them anchored in place.\\nTry to minimize the amount of time that the roots are exposed to the air.\\nWater the transplanted herbs using a spray bottle as soon as you’ve potted them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Spread more soil over the newly planted herbs.\", \"描述\": \"Once the seeds or mature herbs are in the jars, cover them with an additional half inch of soil. Tamp the new layer lightly to provide a more stable base. \\nDon’t smother the herbs with too much soil. This can make it more difficult for them to sprout.\\nAlternatively, blanket new seeds with a thin layer of mulch or starting mix to help them along.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Label the jars individually.\", \"描述\": \"Without labels, it can be difficult to keep track of what’s in the different jars, especially when they’re all bunched together. As a precaution, identify each jar separately in case they happen to get mixed up or moved around. \\nChoose from stylish premade labels to customize the look of your garden, or simply mark a strip of masking tape.\\nGrouping similar types of herbs together can help ensure that they’re subjected to consistent growing conditions.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Find a creative way to display your garden.\", \"描述\": \"Rather than simply setting the mason jars on a ledge, think of how you can be more expressive with their presentation. You might line them up in a narrow tray where you can keep them organized, or suspend them in a crafty macrame weave. Whatever you decide on, make sure the jars won't fall or get knocked over, and that nothing is in the way to prevent the plants from receiving water and sunlight.\\nAnother idea is to attached the jars to a separate board and mount them on the wall, where you can label them plainly and keep an eye on their growth and development.\\nIf you're planning on keeping your garden outside, try arranging the herbs in a wooden trough or the bed of an empty wheelbarrow to create a quaint, eye-catching bit of decoration.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cultivating and Using Your Herbs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the herbs where they can receive plenty of sunlight.\", \"描述\": \"A window sill or low shelf in an open area can be a good place to leave them. As a general rule, your herbs should get at least six hours of sunlight a day in order to flourish.\\nMove the jars around as needed to keep them exposed to direct sunlight. Too much or too little shade can stunt the growth of young plants.\\nFor those short, dark winter days, it can help to have a secondary light source, like a grow light or heating lamp.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Water the herbs regularly using a spray bottle.\", \"描述\": \"Once your herbs have begun to sprout, they’ll only need enough water to dampen the uppermost layer of soil. Wait until the soil is dry to the touch before watering them again. Try not to oversaturate the plants, as too much moisture can kill them off.\\nSome herbs, like basil and mint, require more frequent moisture. Other, more delicate varieties such as lavender should be given time to dry out between waterings.\\nFill a spray bottle with fresh water and mist the herbs at soil level once or twice a day. The gentle dispersion will help you avoid overwatering.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use fresh herbs in your favorite recipes.\", \"描述\": \"Anytime you think a dish could benefit from an infusion of flavor, you’ll have a supply of potent and savory herbs at the ready. Snip the herbs close to the stems with a pair of sharp scissors, removing only as much as you plan on using. For recipes that call for an abundance of a certain herb, take cuttings from multiple plants to ensure that there’s enough left to grow back.\\nIf you have herbs leftover, you can sandwich them between a layer of damp paper towels, slide them into an airtight plastic bag and store them in the refrigerator.\\nEven though the herbs have been grown naturally, it’s still a good idea to wash them before incorporating them into food.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Embellish your mason jar planters with hand-painted designs or a length of decorative twine or ribbon.\\n\", \"Select herbs that are best suited for growing in the unique climate in which you live.\\n\", \"Change your lineup of herbs according to season so they’ll always be available at the peak of freshness.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful not to overwater your herbs. Given the small size of the potting containers, this can be deceptively easy. Add just enough moisture to thoroughly wet the base of the plant, then re-water once the surface of the soil has dried to the touch.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,424 |
How to Build a Maze for Your Rabbit
|
1. Building an Open-Air Maze With Cardboard Strips
1-1. Create the base of the maze.
Lay out a flat piece of cardboard to use as the base floor. Choose a piece as long as the maze you want to make. A good size to start with is two feet by two feet. As you perfect your maze-making skills, you can get more adventurous with bigger sized mazes.
You can also start building directly on the floor if you prefer. However, this means that you might have more to clean up at the end since your rabbit might go to the bathroom on the floor or make some other kind of mess. A cardboard base will help contain the mess to the toy maze and not let it escape into your home as much.
1-2. Make the walls of the maze.
You can create walls for your maze by cutting ten-inch high strips from flat cardboard, the same length and width as the maze floor. Glue the strips around the perimeter to create the structure's walls. Each lane should be wide enough for your rabbit to move around easily – probably at least six inches wide, depending on the size of your rabbit.
You can also use some heavy duty tape (like duct tape or packaging tape) as an alternative to glue to keep the walls of the maze in place.
1-3. Design the maze.
Draw a blueprint on the maze floor. You can even include divergent paths and dead ends to challenge your rabbit. However, try not to make it too difficult.
You might want to start out with a fairly simple design that only has one dead end, for example, and build up to a more complicated pattern over time.
1-4. Create the inner walls of the maze.
Cut additional ten-inch high cardboard strips and glue them into your maze according to the design you created. Make sure all of the pieces are attached sturdily so your rabbit can run through the maze without knocking them over.
To attach the inner walls of the maze to the base, you can use glue or tape. Just make sure the walls stay firmly in place.
1-5. Create holding pens.
Do this by cutting ten-inch high cardboard strips to use as barriers that fit tightly in the path at the beginning and the end of the maze. Secure them sturdily to the base to create separate start and finish pens.
Make sure your holding pens are secured tightly and that there are no spaces around the edges for your rabbit to escape.
You can secure the walls of the holding pens by creating slits in the cardboard sides that allow the pen door to slide into place. Then you can simply remove the wall by pulling the cardboard door out to let your rabbit out of the pen.
1-6. Let your rabbit explore the maze.
Place your rabbit in the start pen and put a few pieces of your rabbit’s favorite foods in the finish pen to entice your bunny to finish the maze. Lift up both pens and watch your rabbit find its way through the maze.
2. Creating an Enclosed Maze Using Cardboard Boxes
2-1. Gather some boxes.
It is important that the boxes all be about the same size, or at least that they fit together end-to-end with no gaps in between the boxes. You’ll be cutting holes in the boxes and you don’t want your bunny to be able to squeeze out of the maze in gaps between the boxes.
You’ll probably need at least five boxes, depending on the size of the boxes and the amount of space you have to build the maze. If you have more space, you can use more boxes.
2-2. Design your maze.
Put the boxes together and decide where to cut the holes. You’ll want to put holes only on some sides so that the rabbit is led towards the end of the maze. However, you might also include a few dead ends to keep your rabbit thinking.
To make a dead end in the maze, you’ll just cut a hole in a box that goes one direction, but then have no other holes in the box it leads into. That way, your rabbit will have to turn around and go back the way it came to continue the maze.
2-3. Cut holes in the boxes.
Once you have designed your maze, start cutting holes in the boxes with scissors or an X-Acto/utility knife. Make sure the holes are big enough for your rabbit to hop through without getting stuck or feeling restricted.
It might be helpful to decide what size and shape you want the holes to be beforehand and create a template. Then you can simply trace the template on each box where you want the hole to be so that you’re sure all the holes will be big enough for your bunny.
Make sure you use extreme caution when using a sharp blade of any kind. If you are a kid, ask your parents to help you or supervise you during this step.
2-4. Put the boxes together.
Once you have cut holes in all the boxes, you’ll need to make sure the maze sticks together. If you forget this step, the boxes may start sliding apart as your rabbit hops around inside.
Use glue or double-sided tape (or tape that you fold around to make it double sided) to stick the sides of each box together. You could even tape together the top edges of the boxes for added security.
2-5. Set your rabbit loose in the maze.
Now your maze is complete and you can let your rabbit wander through. Try putting some treats at the end of the maze to entice your rabbit to go all the way to the end.
You can also add some newspaper or bedding throughout the maze to make it more comfortable for your rabbit.
3. Using Other Items as Mazes for Your Rabbit
3-1. Buy a prefabricated maze for your bunny.
You can often find already made maze items specifically intended for use by rabbits. There are websites online that carry these items, but you can also check in your local pet store to see what they carry in stock.
You will likely have to do a little assembly to put the maze together.
3-2. Create a maze out of tunnel toys.
A popular toy for pet rabbits (and many other types of pets) is the tunnel. This toy gives your rabbit a chance to explore in narrow spaces, an activity that they really enjoy. These types of toys will also help keep your bunny out of smaller spaces that you would prefer it avoid – like under your furniture.
To create a maze with a tunnel toy, you simply need to stick several of them together in a pattern of some sort. You can use Velcro or tape, depending on the material your tunnel toys are made out of.
Combine the tunnel toys in various ways to make a fun and interesting maze for your rabbit.
If you can’t find any tunnel toys made specifically for rabbits, you can use some that were made for cats. These tunnel toys will be easier to find.
3-3. Create a maze with a combination of cardboard and tunnels.
You can make an even more exciting maze for your pet rabbit by building one out of cardboard boxes and tunnel toys that you stick together in various ways.
Where the tunnel will intersect with the cardboard box, you’ll need to trace the outline of the tunnel on the box and cut out the hold. That way, the tunnel will fit snugly into the side of the cardboard box and there won’t be any chance your bunny could escape out of the hole.
Tips
Place rewards in the finish pen to reward your rabbit on doing a good job!
To increase maze size, attach 2 pieces of cardboard together with duct tape.
Make sure the walls are stable you don’t want your rabbits falling on them.
Warnings
If you are a kid, ask for an adult's help while using sharp objects such as scissors.
Make sure there is always two ways to go (or more) As rabbits are prey animals they would like two ways (or more) out.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:47",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building an Open-Air Maze With Cardboard Strips\\n1-1. Create the base of the maze.\\nLay out a flat piece of cardboard to use as the base floor. Choose a piece as long as the maze you want to make. A good size to start with is two feet by two feet. As you perfect your maze-making skills, you can get more adventurous with bigger sized mazes.\\nYou can also start building directly on the floor if you prefer. However, this means that you might have more to clean up at the end since your rabbit might go to the bathroom on the floor or make some other kind of mess. A cardboard base will help contain the mess to the toy maze and not let it escape into your home as much.\\n1-2. Make the walls of the maze.\\nYou can create walls for your maze by cutting ten-inch high strips from flat cardboard, the same length and width as the maze floor. Glue the strips around the perimeter to create the structure's walls. Each lane should be wide enough for your rabbit to move around easily – probably at least six inches wide, depending on the size of your rabbit.\\nYou can also use some heavy duty tape (like duct tape or packaging tape) as an alternative to glue to keep the walls of the maze in place.\\n1-3. Design the maze.\\nDraw a blueprint on the maze floor. You can even include divergent paths and dead ends to challenge your rabbit. However, try not to make it too difficult.\\nYou might want to start out with a fairly simple design that only has one dead end, for example, and build up to a more complicated pattern over time.\\n1-4. Create the inner walls of the maze.\\nCut additional ten-inch high cardboard strips and glue them into your maze according to the design you created. Make sure all of the pieces are attached sturdily so your rabbit can run through the maze without knocking them over.\\nTo attach the inner walls of the maze to the base, you can use glue or tape. Just make sure the walls stay firmly in place.\\n1-5. Create holding pens.\\nDo this by cutting ten-inch high cardboard strips to use as barriers that fit tightly in the path at the beginning and the end of the maze. Secure them sturdily to the base to create separate start and finish pens.\\nMake sure your holding pens are secured tightly and that there are no spaces around the edges for your rabbit to escape.\\nYou can secure the walls of the holding pens by creating slits in the cardboard sides that allow the pen door to slide into place. Then you can simply remove the wall by pulling the cardboard door out to let your rabbit out of the pen.\\n1-6. Let your rabbit explore the maze.\\nPlace your rabbit in the start pen and put a few pieces of your rabbit’s favorite foods in the finish pen to entice your bunny to finish the maze. Lift up both pens and watch your rabbit find its way through the maze.\\n2. Creating an Enclosed Maze Using Cardboard Boxes\\n2-1. Gather some boxes.\\nIt is important that the boxes all be about the same size, or at least that they fit together end-to-end with no gaps in between the boxes. You’ll be cutting holes in the boxes and you don’t want your bunny to be able to squeeze out of the maze in gaps between the boxes.\\nYou’ll probably need at least five boxes, depending on the size of the boxes and the amount of space you have to build the maze. If you have more space, you can use more boxes.\\n2-2. Design your maze.\\nPut the boxes together and decide where to cut the holes. You’ll want to put holes only on some sides so that the rabbit is led towards the end of the maze. However, you might also include a few dead ends to keep your rabbit thinking.\\nTo make a dead end in the maze, you’ll just cut a hole in a box that goes one direction, but then have no other holes in the box it leads into. That way, your rabbit will have to turn around and go back the way it came to continue the maze.\\n2-3. Cut holes in the boxes.\\nOnce you have designed your maze, start cutting holes in the boxes with scissors or an X-Acto/utility knife. Make sure the holes are big enough for your rabbit to hop through without getting stuck or feeling restricted.\\nIt might be helpful to decide what size and shape you want the holes to be beforehand and create a template. Then you can simply trace the template on each box where you want the hole to be so that you’re sure all the holes will be big enough for your bunny.\\nMake sure you use extreme caution when using a sharp blade of any kind. If you are a kid, ask your parents to help you or supervise you during this step.\\n2-4. Put the boxes together.\\nOnce you have cut holes in all the boxes, you’ll need to make sure the maze sticks together. If you forget this step, the boxes may start sliding apart as your rabbit hops around inside.\\nUse glue or double-sided tape (or tape that you fold around to make it double sided) to stick the sides of each box together. You could even tape together the top edges of the boxes for added security.\\n2-5. Set your rabbit loose in the maze.\\nNow your maze is complete and you can let your rabbit wander through. Try putting some treats at the end of the maze to entice your rabbit to go all the way to the end.\\nYou can also add some newspaper or bedding throughout the maze to make it more comfortable for your rabbit.\\n3. Using Other Items as Mazes for Your Rabbit\\n3-1. Buy a prefabricated maze for your bunny.\\nYou can often find already made maze items specifically intended for use by rabbits. There are websites online that carry these items, but you can also check in your local pet store to see what they carry in stock.\\nYou will likely have to do a little assembly to put the maze together.\\n3-2. Create a maze out of tunnel toys.\\nA popular toy for pet rabbits (and many other types of pets) is the tunnel. This toy gives your rabbit a chance to explore in narrow spaces, an activity that they really enjoy. These types of toys will also help keep your bunny out of smaller spaces that you would prefer it avoid – like under your furniture. \\nTo create a maze with a tunnel toy, you simply need to stick several of them together in a pattern of some sort. You can use Velcro or tape, depending on the material your tunnel toys are made out of.\\nCombine the tunnel toys in various ways to make a fun and interesting maze for your rabbit.\\nIf you can’t find any tunnel toys made specifically for rabbits, you can use some that were made for cats. These tunnel toys will be easier to find.\\n3-3. Create a maze with a combination of cardboard and tunnels.\\nYou can make an even more exciting maze for your pet rabbit by building one out of cardboard boxes and tunnel toys that you stick together in various ways.\\nWhere the tunnel will intersect with the cardboard box, you’ll need to trace the outline of the tunnel on the box and cut out the hold. That way, the tunnel will fit snugly into the side of the cardboard box and there won’t be any chance your bunny could escape out of the hole.\\nTips\\nPlace rewards in the finish pen to reward your rabbit on doing a good job!\\nTo increase maze size, attach 2 pieces of cardboard together with duct tape.\\nMake sure the walls are stable you don’t want your rabbits falling on them.\\nWarnings\\nIf you are a kid, ask for an adult's help while using sharp objects such as scissors.\\nMake sure there is always two ways to go (or more) As rabbits are prey animals they would like two ways (or more) out.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you’re wondering what things you could do to amuse your pet rabbit, you might consider building your rabbit a maze. Besides entertaining your rabbit, this type of activity encourages higher levels of brain activity in your rabbit. Stimulating your rabbit's cognitive abilities can enhance brain power which will also help your rabbit live a longer, healthier life in their old age.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building an Open-Air Maze With Cardboard Strips\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create the base of the maze.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out a flat piece of cardboard to use as the base floor. Choose a piece as long as the maze you want to make. A good size to start with is two feet by two feet. As you perfect your maze-making skills, you can get more adventurous with bigger sized mazes.\\nYou can also start building directly on the floor if you prefer. However, this means that you might have more to clean up at the end since your rabbit might go to the bathroom on the floor or make some other kind of mess. A cardboard base will help contain the mess to the toy maze and not let it escape into your home as much.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make the walls of the maze.\", \"描述\": \"You can create walls for your maze by cutting ten-inch high strips from flat cardboard, the same length and width as the maze floor. Glue the strips around the perimeter to create the structure's walls. Each lane should be wide enough for your rabbit to move around easily – probably at least six inches wide, depending on the size of your rabbit.\\nYou can also use some heavy duty tape (like duct tape or packaging tape) as an alternative to glue to keep the walls of the maze in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Design the maze.\", \"描述\": \"Draw a blueprint on the maze floor. You can even include divergent paths and dead ends to challenge your rabbit. However, try not to make it too difficult.\\nYou might want to start out with a fairly simple design that only has one dead end, for example, and build up to a more complicated pattern over time.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create the inner walls of the maze.\", \"描述\": \"Cut additional ten-inch high cardboard strips and glue them into your maze according to the design you created. Make sure all of the pieces are attached sturdily so your rabbit can run through the maze without knocking them over.\\nTo attach the inner walls of the maze to the base, you can use glue or tape. Just make sure the walls stay firmly in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create holding pens.\", \"描述\": \"Do this by cutting ten-inch high cardboard strips to use as barriers that fit tightly in the path at the beginning and the end of the maze. Secure them sturdily to the base to create separate start and finish pens.\\nMake sure your holding pens are secured tightly and that there are no spaces around the edges for your rabbit to escape.\\nYou can secure the walls of the holding pens by creating slits in the cardboard sides that allow the pen door to slide into place. Then you can simply remove the wall by pulling the cardboard door out to let your rabbit out of the pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Let your rabbit explore the maze.\", \"描述\": \"Place your rabbit in the start pen and put a few pieces of your rabbit’s favorite foods in the finish pen to entice your bunny to finish the maze. Lift up both pens and watch your rabbit find its way through the maze.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating an Enclosed Maze Using Cardboard Boxes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather some boxes.\", \"描述\": \"It is important that the boxes all be about the same size, or at least that they fit together end-to-end with no gaps in between the boxes. You’ll be cutting holes in the boxes and you don’t want your bunny to be able to squeeze out of the maze in gaps between the boxes.\\nYou’ll probably need at least five boxes, depending on the size of the boxes and the amount of space you have to build the maze. If you have more space, you can use more boxes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Design your maze.\", \"描述\": \"Put the boxes together and decide where to cut the holes. You’ll want to put holes only on some sides so that the rabbit is led towards the end of the maze. However, you might also include a few dead ends to keep your rabbit thinking.\\nTo make a dead end in the maze, you’ll just cut a hole in a box that goes one direction, but then have no other holes in the box it leads into. That way, your rabbit will have to turn around and go back the way it came to continue the maze.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut holes in the boxes.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have designed your maze, start cutting holes in the boxes with scissors or an X-Acto/utility knife. Make sure the holes are big enough for your rabbit to hop through without getting stuck or feeling restricted.\\nIt might be helpful to decide what size and shape you want the holes to be beforehand and create a template. Then you can simply trace the template on each box where you want the hole to be so that you’re sure all the holes will be big enough for your bunny.\\nMake sure you use extreme caution when using a sharp blade of any kind. If you are a kid, ask your parents to help you or supervise you during this step.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put the boxes together.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have cut holes in all the boxes, you’ll need to make sure the maze sticks together. If you forget this step, the boxes may start sliding apart as your rabbit hops around inside.\\nUse glue or double-sided tape (or tape that you fold around to make it double sided) to stick the sides of each box together. You could even tape together the top edges of the boxes for added security.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Set your rabbit loose in the maze.\", \"描述\": \"Now your maze is complete and you can let your rabbit wander through. Try putting some treats at the end of the maze to entice your rabbit to go all the way to the end.\\nYou can also add some newspaper or bedding throughout the maze to make it more comfortable for your rabbit.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using Other Items as Mazes for Your Rabbit\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy a prefabricated maze for your bunny.\", \"描述\": \"You can often find already made maze items specifically intended for use by rabbits. There are websites online that carry these items, but you can also check in your local pet store to see what they carry in stock.\\nYou will likely have to do a little assembly to put the maze together.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a maze out of tunnel toys.\", \"描述\": \"A popular toy for pet rabbits (and many other types of pets) is the tunnel. This toy gives your rabbit a chance to explore in narrow spaces, an activity that they really enjoy. These types of toys will also help keep your bunny out of smaller spaces that you would prefer it avoid – like under your furniture. \\nTo create a maze with a tunnel toy, you simply need to stick several of them together in a pattern of some sort. You can use Velcro or tape, depending on the material your tunnel toys are made out of.\\nCombine the tunnel toys in various ways to make a fun and interesting maze for your rabbit.\\nIf you can’t find any tunnel toys made specifically for rabbits, you can use some that were made for cats. These tunnel toys will be easier to find.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a maze with a combination of cardboard and tunnels.\", \"描述\": \"You can make an even more exciting maze for your pet rabbit by building one out of cardboard boxes and tunnel toys that you stick together in various ways.\\nWhere the tunnel will intersect with the cardboard box, you’ll need to trace the outline of the tunnel on the box and cut out the hold. That way, the tunnel will fit snugly into the side of the cardboard box and there won’t be any chance your bunny could escape out of the hole.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Place rewards in the finish pen to reward your rabbit on doing a good job!\\n\", \"To increase maze size, attach 2 pieces of cardboard together with duct tape.\\n\", \"Make sure the walls are stable you don’t want your rabbits falling on them.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you are a kid, ask for an adult's help while using sharp objects such as scissors.\\n\", \"Make sure there is always two ways to go (or more) As rabbits are prey animals they would like two ways (or more) out.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,425 |
How to Build a Media PC
|
1. Obtaining the Right Parts
1-1. Shop around.
Prices vary a great deal between outlets. Find a retailer that has a good return policy, as computer components have a chance of being DOA (dead on arrival). You’ll want to buy from a company that makes exchanging parts as hassle-free as possible.
1-2. Choose a processor.
For a media PC, you won’t need the latest and most expensive processor that you might need in a gaming PC. You will need one that can handle HD playback of movies. Look for a mid-range quad-core processor.
Try to use a low-energy processor, as this will lower your heating requirements, which will in turn reduce the overall noise of your machine.
1-3. Choose a motherboard.
Your motherboard choices will largely be dictated by your processor choice. USB 3.0, Ethernet, and Wi-Fi are all essential components of a good motherboard. You’ll want a motherboard that has HDMI and DVI connectors, depending on the TV that you are connecting it to. HDMI transmits both audio and visual signals, so if you aren’t connecting via HDMI you’ll need audio connectors such as SPDIF.
If you are planning on getting a solid state drive (more on that below), make sure that the motherboard has SATA III support.
Motherboard size is determined by the case that you choose, and vice versa.
1-4. Purchase RAM.
RAM is one of the simpler purchases when building an HTPC. Compare reviews to make sure you are buying from a trusted company, as RAM has a fairly high fail rate. The pin numbers for the sticks of RAM must match the pin number for the motherboard. Make sure that the DDR Type and Frequency are supported by your motherboard.
Since RAM is inexpensive, get the highest frequency RAM that your motherboard can support. You will want 8-16 GB, either as 4 sticks of 1GB or 2 sticks of 2GB.
1-5. Choose a video card (optional).
You will only need a video card if you are planning on playing games on your HTPC as well. Most motherboards will be able to handle video playback and streaming just fine. If you are adding a video card, you will also need to make sure that your power supply and case (below) will support it.
1-6. Decide on the storage amount.
Your storage needs will vary depending on the way you intend to use your HTPC. If you are streaming video from the internet and watching movies on DVD and Blu-ray, you will not need much in the way of storage. If you are archiving video and music files, you could potentially need several terabytes of storage. Either way, you will need at least a 60GB hard drive to install your operating system (OS) and media programs on.
Consider a solid state drive for your OS. They are quiet and low power, and quite a bit faster than a traditional hard drive. This will lead to quicker startup times. They are significantly more expensive, however, and may not be suitable for large amounts of storage.
1-7. Purchase an optical drive.
Any modern HTPC should have a Blu-ray drive installed. This will get you the best picture quality when watching HD movies. Most Blu-ray drives have a 12x read speed. Make sure to purchase from a trusted manufacturer, as optical drives have a high fail rate. Blu-ray drives also read DVDs and CDs.
1-8. Pick out a case.
Look for HTPC cases. These are computer cases that lay flat, and are around the same size as a stereo receiver. You want to strike a balance between good cooling and quiet fans. You also need to make sure the case is big enough to house your components, but not so big that it has lots of unused space.
When buying a motherboard and case, make sure that they are compatible sizes. Make sure that the case had adequate fans; if it doesn’t add one or two 120mm fans, which are usually the quietest.
1-9. Choose the correct power supply (PSU).
Your wattage needs will vary depending on your components, but if you don’t have a video card, and you’re running a solid state hard drive, you will likely not need more than 450 watts. Look for a PSU that is modular, meaning that you can attach cables for just the parts you need. This will cut down on the space requirements, and the low wattage will mean less noise.
1-10. Pick up some peripherals.
Having a wireless mouse and keyboard will be very helpful for navigating your computer. There are also several remote options available with either Bluetooth or IR connectivity. You will need video and audio cables to connect your HTPC to your TV and sound system.
2. Assembling the PC
2-1. Ground yourself.
Static discharge can be devastating to computer components. Make sure that you are properly grounded before handling your PC parts. If you have an antistatic wristband, use it and attach the lead to the bare metal of your case. Don’t do the assembling on carpet, and if you are standing, remove your socks. Don’t wear synthetic clothes while assembling the PC.
2-2. Install the motherboard.
In order to install the motherboard, you will need to prepare the case. Open the empty case with the back or bottom lying on your work surface. Install the motherboard I/O plate into the case. This plate is different for every motherboard, and has holes for each of the connectors.
Install the motherboard risers. There will be multiple screw holes in your case for the risers. Screw them in to the holes that correspond with your specific motherboard. The risers are installed with your fingers, and have a hole in the top that another screw can be inserted into.
Place the motherboard on the risers. Gently push the motherboard into the I/O plate as you install the screws. Start with the screws closest to the I/O plate and move out from there.
Install the processor. Carefully remove the processor from the package, and line up the triangle on the processor socket to the triangle that is printed on the processor.
Be sure not to handle the pins, and make sure that you do not force the processor into the socket.
Once the processor has been inserted, secure it by locking the socket lever.
Install the CPU cooler. If you purchased your processor retail, then chances are the processor came with a cooling fan with thermal grease already applied. If not, you will need to put a thin layer of thermal grease on the processor before installing the CPU fan.
2-3. Install the RAM.
Line up the notches in the RAM with the notches in their sockets. Press down firmly in the center until you hear it click. Both of the clips on either end should be securely locked into place.
2-4. Install the hard drive and optical drive.
Depending on the case, you may need to install mounts on the drives before inserting them. Make sure that your optical drive is flush with the front of your case. Some cases may require you to attach a cover to the front of the optical drive tray.
2-5. Install the video card (if applicable).
If you are adding a video card to your HTPC, install it now. Look for the PCI-E slot on the motherboard. It will be shorter than the other slots and a different color. Press the card into the slot firmly, and the clip will click into place. The back plate should line up with the opening in the back of the case.
2-6. Install the fans.
Most fans will have indicators on the top showing which direction the air will flow. You will want one fan pulling in air and an opposite fan pushing it out. This will make for optimum cooling as fresh, cool air is passed over your components.
2-7. Connect your motherboard.
Before connecting your components, attach the case features to your motherboard. This means attaching the leads for your power switch, the power LEDs, any USB and audio ports on the case, fans, etc. Most motherboards have these connections labeled, though you may need to consult your motherboard’s manual for specific locations.
2-8. Install the power supply.
Insert your power supply into its bay, and secure it with screws. Attach the appropriate power connectors to their devices. Make sure that all of your installed components are properly connected, including your motherboard. If you are using a modular PSU, you only need to attach the cables you need. Otherwise, tuck the excess cables away.
2-9. Connect your components.
Connect your hard drive and optical drive to your motherboard using the SATA connectors. Tuck away excess lengths of cable and make sure nothing is obstructing any of the fans.
2-10. Close up the case.
A well-designed case helps to maximize airflow. Make sure you case is properly sealed, and avoid running your computer with the case open.
2-11. Connect the HTPC to the TV.
Using an HDMI cable, or a DVI and SPDIF connector, attach your HTPC to your TV. Make sure that your TV is set to the appropriate input when using the HTPC.
3. Running the HTPC
3-1. Install your OS.
Once your PC is finished being assembled, it’s time to start installing the software you need to turn it into a true media center. First, you will need and operating system. Windows is the most common choice, with either 7 or 8 being good options depending on user preference. If you have more than 4 GB of RAM, install a 64-bit version of Windows in order to utilize the extra memory. If you’re more technically inclined, Linux is a free alternative that can perform all the functions of an HTPC. It is significantly less user friendly than Windows.
You can use a Windows installation USB flash drive or DVD.
Then choose your language and choose custom install.
When you start the Windows Installer it will automatically create partitions and format them.
3-2. Connect to your home network.
Using either the Ethernet port or Wi-Fi, connect your HTPC to the network so that you can start streaming web content such as Netflix and Hulu.
3-3. Install a media player.
Windows comes installed with a media player, but it can’t play some of the major formats for downloaded video. If you are using your HTPC to watch downloaded media files, you will need a good media player to view some of the more complex file types. There are several good free media players available online.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Obtaining the Right Parts\\n1-1. Shop around.\\nPrices vary a great deal between outlets. Find a retailer that has a good return policy, as computer components have a chance of being DOA (dead on arrival). You’ll want to buy from a company that makes exchanging parts as hassle-free as possible.\\n1-2. Choose a processor.\\nFor a media PC, you won’t need the latest and most expensive processor that you might need in a gaming PC. You will need one that can handle HD playback of movies. Look for a mid-range quad-core processor.\\nTry to use a low-energy processor, as this will lower your heating requirements, which will in turn reduce the overall noise of your machine.\\n1-3. Choose a motherboard.\\nYour motherboard choices will largely be dictated by your processor choice. USB 3.0, Ethernet, and Wi-Fi are all essential components of a good motherboard. You’ll want a motherboard that has HDMI and DVI connectors, depending on the TV that you are connecting it to. HDMI transmits both audio and visual signals, so if you aren’t connecting via HDMI you’ll need audio connectors such as SPDIF.\\nIf you are planning on getting a solid state drive (more on that below), make sure that the motherboard has SATA III support.\\nMotherboard size is determined by the case that you choose, and vice versa.\\n1-4. Purchase RAM.\\nRAM is one of the simpler purchases when building an HTPC. Compare reviews to make sure you are buying from a trusted company, as RAM has a fairly high fail rate. The pin numbers for the sticks of RAM must match the pin number for the motherboard. Make sure that the DDR Type and Frequency are supported by your motherboard.\\nSince RAM is inexpensive, get the highest frequency RAM that your motherboard can support. You will want 8-16 GB, either as 4 sticks of 1GB or 2 sticks of 2GB.\\n1-5. Choose a video card (optional).\\nYou will only need a video card if you are planning on playing games on your HTPC as well. Most motherboards will be able to handle video playback and streaming just fine. If you are adding a video card, you will also need to make sure that your power supply and case (below) will support it.\\n1-6. Decide on the storage amount.\\nYour storage needs will vary depending on the way you intend to use your HTPC. If you are streaming video from the internet and watching movies on DVD and Blu-ray, you will not need much in the way of storage. If you are archiving video and music files, you could potentially need several terabytes of storage. Either way, you will need at least a 60GB hard drive to install your operating system (OS) and media programs on.\\nConsider a solid state drive for your OS. They are quiet and low power, and quite a bit faster than a traditional hard drive. This will lead to quicker startup times. They are significantly more expensive, however, and may not be suitable for large amounts of storage.\\n1-7. Purchase an optical drive.\\nAny modern HTPC should have a Blu-ray drive installed. This will get you the best picture quality when watching HD movies. Most Blu-ray drives have a 12x read speed. Make sure to purchase from a trusted manufacturer, as optical drives have a high fail rate. Blu-ray drives also read DVDs and CDs.\\n1-8. Pick out a case.\\nLook for HTPC cases. These are computer cases that lay flat, and are around the same size as a stereo receiver. You want to strike a balance between good cooling and quiet fans. You also need to make sure the case is big enough to house your components, but not so big that it has lots of unused space.\\nWhen buying a motherboard and case, make sure that they are compatible sizes. Make sure that the case had adequate fans; if it doesn’t add one or two 120mm fans, which are usually the quietest.\\n1-9. Choose the correct power supply (PSU).\\nYour wattage needs will vary depending on your components, but if you don’t have a video card, and you’re running a solid state hard drive, you will likely not need more than 450 watts. Look for a PSU that is modular, meaning that you can attach cables for just the parts you need. This will cut down on the space requirements, and the low wattage will mean less noise.\\n1-10. Pick up some peripherals.\\nHaving a wireless mouse and keyboard will be very helpful for navigating your computer. There are also several remote options available with either Bluetooth or IR connectivity. You will need video and audio cables to connect your HTPC to your TV and sound system.\\n2. Assembling the PC\\n2-1. Ground yourself.\\nStatic discharge can be devastating to computer components. Make sure that you are properly grounded before handling your PC parts. If you have an antistatic wristband, use it and attach the lead to the bare metal of your case. Don’t do the assembling on carpet, and if you are standing, remove your socks. Don’t wear synthetic clothes while assembling the PC.\\n2-2. Install the motherboard.\\nIn order to install the motherboard, you will need to prepare the case. Open the empty case with the back or bottom lying on your work surface. Install the motherboard I/O plate into the case. This plate is different for every motherboard, and has holes for each of the connectors.\\nInstall the motherboard risers. There will be multiple screw holes in your case for the risers. Screw them in to the holes that correspond with your specific motherboard. The risers are installed with your fingers, and have a hole in the top that another screw can be inserted into.\\nPlace the motherboard on the risers. Gently push the motherboard into the I/O plate as you install the screws. Start with the screws closest to the I/O plate and move out from there.\\nInstall the processor. Carefully remove the processor from the package, and line up the triangle on the processor socket to the triangle that is printed on the processor.\\nBe sure not to handle the pins, and make sure that you do not force the processor into the socket.\\nOnce the processor has been inserted, secure it by locking the socket lever.\\nInstall the CPU cooler. If you purchased your processor retail, then chances are the processor came with a cooling fan with thermal grease already applied. If not, you will need to put a thin layer of thermal grease on the processor before installing the CPU fan.\\n2-3. Install the RAM.\\nLine up the notches in the RAM with the notches in their sockets. Press down firmly in the center until you hear it click. Both of the clips on either end should be securely locked into place.\\n2-4. Install the hard drive and optical drive.\\nDepending on the case, you may need to install mounts on the drives before inserting them. Make sure that your optical drive is flush with the front of your case. Some cases may require you to attach a cover to the front of the optical drive tray.\\n2-5. Install the video card (if applicable).\\nIf you are adding a video card to your HTPC, install it now. Look for the PCI-E slot on the motherboard. It will be shorter than the other slots and a different color. Press the card into the slot firmly, and the clip will click into place. The back plate should line up with the opening in the back of the case.\\n2-6. Install the fans.\\nMost fans will have indicators on the top showing which direction the air will flow. You will want one fan pulling in air and an opposite fan pushing it out. This will make for optimum cooling as fresh, cool air is passed over your components.\\n2-7. Connect your motherboard.\\nBefore connecting your components, attach the case features to your motherboard. This means attaching the leads for your power switch, the power LEDs, any USB and audio ports on the case, fans, etc. Most motherboards have these connections labeled, though you may need to consult your motherboard’s manual for specific locations.\\n2-8. Install the power supply.\\nInsert your power supply into its bay, and secure it with screws. Attach the appropriate power connectors to their devices. Make sure that all of your installed components are properly connected, including your motherboard. If you are using a modular PSU, you only need to attach the cables you need. Otherwise, tuck the excess cables away.\\n2-9. Connect your components.\\nConnect your hard drive and optical drive to your motherboard using the SATA connectors. Tuck away excess lengths of cable and make sure nothing is obstructing any of the fans.\\n2-10. Close up the case.\\nA well-designed case helps to maximize airflow. Make sure you case is properly sealed, and avoid running your computer with the case open.\\n2-11. Connect the HTPC to the TV.\\nUsing an HDMI cable, or a DVI and SPDIF connector, attach your HTPC to your TV. Make sure that your TV is set to the appropriate input when using the HTPC.\\n3. Running the HTPC\\n3-1. Install your OS.\\nOnce your PC is finished being assembled, it’s time to start installing the software you need to turn it into a true media center. First, you will need and operating system. Windows is the most common choice, with either 7 or 8 being good options depending on user preference. If you have more than 4 GB of RAM, install a 64-bit version of Windows in order to utilize the extra memory. If you’re more technically inclined, Linux is a free alternative that can perform all the functions of an HTPC. It is significantly less user friendly than Windows.\\nYou can use a Windows installation USB flash drive or DVD.\\nThen choose your language and choose custom install.\\nWhen you start the Windows Installer it will automatically create partitions and format them.\\n3-2. Connect to your home network.\\nUsing either the Ethernet port or Wi-Fi, connect your HTPC to the network so that you can start streaming web content such as Netflix and Hulu.\\n3-3. Install a media player.\\nWindows comes installed with a media player, but it can’t play some of the major formats for downloaded video. If you are using your HTPC to watch downloaded media files, you will need a good media player to view some of the more complex file types. There are several good free media players available online.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"With entertainment steadily becoming more and more web-centric, the possibility of centralizing all of your TV, Internet, digital photos and video games into one hub is very appealing. Building a Media PC, or Home Theater PC (HTPC), yourself is rewarding and can save you a lot of money as opposed to buying a pre-built PC. Learn how to build a Media PC by following this guide.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtaining the Right Parts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Shop around.\", \"描述\": \"Prices vary a great deal between outlets. Find a retailer that has a good return policy, as computer components have a chance of being DOA (dead on arrival). You’ll want to buy from a company that makes exchanging parts as hassle-free as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a processor.\", \"描述\": \"For a media PC, you won’t need the latest and most expensive processor that you might need in a gaming PC. You will need one that can handle HD playback of movies. Look for a mid-range quad-core processor.\\nTry to use a low-energy processor, as this will lower your heating requirements, which will in turn reduce the overall noise of your machine.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose a motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"Your motherboard choices will largely be dictated by your processor choice. USB 3.0, Ethernet, and Wi-Fi are all essential components of a good motherboard. You’ll want a motherboard that has HDMI and DVI connectors, depending on the TV that you are connecting it to. HDMI transmits both audio and visual signals, so if you aren’t connecting via HDMI you’ll need audio connectors such as SPDIF.\\nIf you are planning on getting a solid state drive (more on that below), make sure that the motherboard has SATA III support.\\nMotherboard size is determined by the case that you choose, and vice versa.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Purchase RAM.\", \"描述\": \"RAM is one of the simpler purchases when building an HTPC. Compare reviews to make sure you are buying from a trusted company, as RAM has a fairly high fail rate. The pin numbers for the sticks of RAM must match the pin number for the motherboard. Make sure that the DDR Type and Frequency are supported by your motherboard.\\nSince RAM is inexpensive, get the highest frequency RAM that your motherboard can support. You will want 8-16 GB, either as 4 sticks of 1GB or 2 sticks of 2GB.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose a video card (optional).\", \"描述\": \"You will only need a video card if you are planning on playing games on your HTPC as well. Most motherboards will be able to handle video playback and streaming just fine. If you are adding a video card, you will also need to make sure that your power supply and case (below) will support it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decide on the storage amount.\", \"描述\": \"Your storage needs will vary depending on the way you intend to use your HTPC. If you are streaming video from the internet and watching movies on DVD and Blu-ray, you will not need much in the way of storage. If you are archiving video and music files, you could potentially need several terabytes of storage. Either way, you will need at least a 60GB hard drive to install your operating system (OS) and media programs on.\\nConsider a solid state drive for your OS. They are quiet and low power, and quite a bit faster than a traditional hard drive. This will lead to quicker startup times. They are significantly more expensive, however, and may not be suitable for large amounts of storage.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Purchase an optical drive.\", \"描述\": \"Any modern HTPC should have a Blu-ray drive installed. This will get you the best picture quality when watching HD movies. Most Blu-ray drives have a 12x read speed. Make sure to purchase from a trusted manufacturer, as optical drives have a high fail rate. Blu-ray drives also read DVDs and CDs.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Pick out a case.\", \"描述\": \"Look for HTPC cases. These are computer cases that lay flat, and are around the same size as a stereo receiver. You want to strike a balance between good cooling and quiet fans. You also need to make sure the case is big enough to house your components, but not so big that it has lots of unused space.\\nWhen buying a motherboard and case, make sure that they are compatible sizes. Make sure that the case had adequate fans; if it doesn’t add one or two 120mm fans, which are usually the quietest.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Choose the correct power supply (PSU).\", \"描述\": \"Your wattage needs will vary depending on your components, but if you don’t have a video card, and you’re running a solid state hard drive, you will likely not need more than 450 watts. Look for a PSU that is modular, meaning that you can attach cables for just the parts you need. This will cut down on the space requirements, and the low wattage will mean less noise.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Pick up some peripherals.\", \"描述\": \"Having a wireless mouse and keyboard will be very helpful for navigating your computer. There are also several remote options available with either Bluetooth or IR connectivity. You will need video and audio cables to connect your HTPC to your TV and sound system.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the PC\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ground yourself.\", \"描述\": \"Static discharge can be devastating to computer components. Make sure that you are properly grounded before handling your PC parts. If you have an antistatic wristband, use it and attach the lead to the bare metal of your case. Don’t do the assembling on carpet, and if you are standing, remove your socks. Don’t wear synthetic clothes while assembling the PC.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install the motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"In order to install the motherboard, you will need to prepare the case. Open the empty case with the back or bottom lying on your work surface. Install the motherboard I/O plate into the case. This plate is different for every motherboard, and has holes for each of the connectors.\\nInstall the motherboard risers. There will be multiple screw holes in your case for the risers. Screw them in to the holes that correspond with your specific motherboard. The risers are installed with your fingers, and have a hole in the top that another screw can be inserted into.\\nPlace the motherboard on the risers. Gently push the motherboard into the I/O plate as you install the screws. Start with the screws closest to the I/O plate and move out from there.\\nInstall the processor. Carefully remove the processor from the package, and line up the triangle on the processor socket to the triangle that is printed on the processor.\\nBe sure not to handle the pins, and make sure that you do not force the processor into the socket.\\nOnce the processor has been inserted, secure it by locking the socket lever.\\nInstall the CPU cooler. If you purchased your processor retail, then chances are the processor came with a cooling fan with thermal grease already applied. If not, you will need to put a thin layer of thermal grease on the processor before installing the CPU fan.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the RAM.\", \"描述\": \"Line up the notches in the RAM with the notches in their sockets. Press down firmly in the center until you hear it click. Both of the clips on either end should be securely locked into place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the hard drive and optical drive.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the case, you may need to install mounts on the drives before inserting them. Make sure that your optical drive is flush with the front of your case. Some cases may require you to attach a cover to the front of the optical drive tray.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install the video card (if applicable).\", \"描述\": \"If you are adding a video card to your HTPC, install it now. Look for the PCI-E slot on the motherboard. It will be shorter than the other slots and a different color. Press the card into the slot firmly, and the clip will click into place. The back plate should line up with the opening in the back of the case.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install the fans.\", \"描述\": \"Most fans will have indicators on the top showing which direction the air will flow. You will want one fan pulling in air and an opposite fan pushing it out. This will make for optimum cooling as fresh, cool air is passed over your components.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Connect your motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"Before connecting your components, attach the case features to your motherboard. This means attaching the leads for your power switch, the power LEDs, any USB and audio ports on the case, fans, etc. Most motherboards have these connections labeled, though you may need to consult your motherboard’s manual for specific locations.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Install the power supply.\", \"描述\": \"Insert your power supply into its bay, and secure it with screws. Attach the appropriate power connectors to their devices. Make sure that all of your installed components are properly connected, including your motherboard. If you are using a modular PSU, you only need to attach the cables you need. Otherwise, tuck the excess cables away.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Connect your components.\", \"描述\": \"Connect your hard drive and optical drive to your motherboard using the SATA connectors. Tuck away excess lengths of cable and make sure nothing is obstructing any of the fans.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Close up the case.\", \"描述\": \"A well-designed case helps to maximize airflow. Make sure you case is properly sealed, and avoid running your computer with the case open.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Connect the HTPC to the TV.\", \"描述\": \"Using an HDMI cable, or a DVI and SPDIF connector, attach your HTPC to your TV. Make sure that your TV is set to the appropriate input when using the HTPC.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Running the HTPC\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install your OS.\", \"描述\": \"Once your PC is finished being assembled, it’s time to start installing the software you need to turn it into a true media center. First, you will need and operating system. Windows is the most common choice, with either 7 or 8 being good options depending on user preference. If you have more than 4 GB of RAM, install a 64-bit version of Windows in order to utilize the extra memory. If you’re more technically inclined, Linux is a free alternative that can perform all the functions of an HTPC. It is significantly less user friendly than Windows.\\nYou can use a Windows installation USB flash drive or DVD.\\nThen choose your language and choose custom install.\\nWhen you start the Windows Installer it will automatically create partitions and format them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect to your home network.\", \"描述\": \"Using either the Ethernet port or Wi-Fi, connect your HTPC to the network so that you can start streaming web content such as Netflix and Hulu.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install a media player.\", \"描述\": \"Windows comes installed with a media player, but it can’t play some of the major formats for downloaded video. If you are using your HTPC to watch downloaded media files, you will need a good media player to view some of the more complex file types. There are several good free media players available online.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,426 |
How to Build a Memory Palace
|
1. Planning Your Palace
1-1. Choose a place that can be easily visualized as the blueprint for your palace.
A memory palace must be a place or route that you are incredibly familiar with, like your childhood home or even your daily commute to work. It can be as small as your closet or as large as your entire neighborhood. The important thing is that you’re able to visualize the place in your head without actually seeing it in real life.
The larger or more detailed the real place is, the more information you can store in the corresponding mental space.
Other options for memory palace locations include school, church, work, a vacation spot you visit frequently, or a friend’s house.
1-2. Walk through your palace to define a route.
Decide how you’ll travel through the palace in your mind rather than just picturing a fixed place. For example, instead of just imagining your house, imagine how you’d walk through it. Do you enter through the front door? What hallway do you walk down? What rooms do you go to? If you need to remember things in a certain order, follow a specific route through your palace, both in the real world and in your mind.
Beginning to practice your route now will make it easier to memorize later on, too.
1-3. Identify specific locations in the palace to store your information.
Think about exactly what you’re going to be putting in your memory palace, whether it’s a number, name, or important dates you need to remember for an exam. You’ll store each piece of data in a separate location so you need to identify as many locations as you have data. Each storage spot needs to be unique so that you don’t accidentally mistake one spot for another.
If your palace itself is a route, like your drive to work, choose landmarks along the way. Some examples include your neighbor’s house, a traffic light, a statue, or a building.
If your palace is a structure, consider separating information in different rooms. Then, within each room, identify smaller locations like paintings, pieces of furniture, or decor.
1-4. Practice visualizing your finished palace by physically drawing it.
On a piece of paper, sketch your memory palace or, if it’s a route, map it out. Mark the landmarks or storage locations you’ve chosen. Close your eyes and try visualizing the palace in your head. Then check your mental image against the drawing to make sure you have remembered every location and that you’ve put them in the correct order.
Picture the landmarks in as much detail as possible. Make sure your mental image includes their colors, sizes, smells, and any other defining characteristics.
If your mental image doesn’t match your drawing, review the drawing a few more times and then try again. Repeat until you can visualize it perfectly.
Another option to practice visualizing your palace is to recite it to a friend. Walk them through the route verbally while they look at the map you drew to compare.
2. Filling Your Palace with Information
2-1. Place important information in small chunks around the palace.
Put a manageable amount of information in each spot. Don’t put too much information in any one place or it will be overwhelming for your brain to try to remember it all. If certain things must be kept separate from others, put them in distinctly different places.
If necessary, place things along your route in the order in which you need to remember them.
If your palace is your house, and you are trying to remember a speech, you might place the first few sentences on your doormat and the next few in the keyhole of your door.
Put your best friend's address in the mailbox outside or on an envelope on the kitchen table. Put their phone number on the couch where you always take their phone calls.
If you're trying to remember U.S. presidents in order, make the washing machine George Washington. Walk further into the laundry room and find a pair of long johns, which represent John Adams.
2-2. Use simple images to symbolize complicated phrases or numbers.
You don’t need to put a whole string of words or numbers in a given location to be able to remember it. All you need to store in each spot is something that will jog your memory and lead you to the actual idea you’re trying to remember. For example, if you’re trying to remember a ship, picture an anchor on your couch. If the ship is the U.S.S. Wisconsin, picture the anchor made out of cheese.
Don’t make your symbols too abstract. If they don't have an obvious correlation to what you’re memorizing, it defeats the purpose. You won’t be able to make the connection between the symbol and the information.
Symbols are shorthand and more effective than picturing the actual thing you are trying to remember.
2-3. Add people, emotional triggers, or bizarre images to remember data.
The images you put in your palace should be as memorable as possible. Generally, images will be more memorable if they are out of the ordinary or attached to some strong emotion or personal experience. You might picture your mom placing her Social Security number on the kitchen table or an adorable puppy eating from a bowl that has your vocabulary test words on it.
Another example uses the number 124, which isn’t memorable. But an image of a spear shaped like the number 1 going through a swan (which looks like the number 2) and splitting the swan into 4 pieces is. It’s disturbing, but that’s what makes it stick in your mind.
You don't have to use only positive images. Negative emotions or images, like including a politician you hate, are just as strong.
2-4. Incorporate other mnemonics to recall longer strings of information.
Create a simple mnemonic by forming an acronym using the first letters of the words in a phrase or make a little rhyme containing the information you’re trying to remember. Then insert these new shortened pieces of data into your memory palace instead of the longer piece.
For instance, say you need to recall the order of notes on the lines of the treble clef (EGBDF). Imagine a little boy eating a piece of chocolate fudge, which would evoke the first-letter mnemonic “Every Good Boy Deserves Fudge."
A rhyming mnemonic is, “In 1492, Columbus sailed the ocean blue.” Envision Columbus holding a blue sailboat toy in your living room.
3. Using Memory Palaces
3-1. Spend at least 15 minutes exploring your palace every day.
The more you walk through and spend time in your palace, the more easily you will recall its contents on demand. You want the visualization to feel effortless and natural. Try to walk through the entire route a couple of times or block out a chunk of time each day to visualize the palace from start to finish.
For example, see James Joyce sitting on your toilet as if he belongs there and really is an integral part of your bathroom décor instead of an imagined image. This helps you remember that James Joyce was the author known for his toilet humor.
The best part is you can practice this anywhere, anytime. All you have to do is close your eyes.
3-2. Recall information by walking through your palace or looking around it.
Once you have memorized the contents of your palace remember them simply by following the route or visualizing a room. With practice you will be able to start anywhere in your palace or along your route to recall a specific piece of information.
If you need to remember that your girlfriend’s birthday is March 16, simply go into your bedroom and see the soldiers “marching" on the bed to the tune of the 80s cult classic “Sixteen Candles."
3-3. Clean up your memory palace when you need to update data.
A memory palace can be reused over and over again. Simply replace the existing contents with new information. After a few practice runs, you’ll soon forget the old data and only remember the new data in its place.
If your palace is becoming too large or contains information you no longer need, remove that data from the route.
3-4. Build new palaces for different topics and information.
If you have something new you’d like to commit to memory, but you don’t want to erase your current memory palace, simply build a new one. File the old palace away and start the process all over again, choosing a different place to use as your palace. Memory palaces will last as long as you want them to once they’re stored in your brain.
There’s no limit to how many memory palaces you can build.
For example, you might have your house store the names of all the U.S. presidents. Then, your walk to work contains the phone numbers of your friends and family. And your office itself has the contents of the speech you’re giving tomorrow.
Tips
There are many variations of the memory palace, such as the Roman Room and the Journey. They are all based on the Method of Loci, which which says that people are very good at remembering locations, and if you can associate abstract or unfamiliar ideas with a well-known location, you can more easily recall the things you want to.
Be persistent. The memory palace is a very powerful tool, but isn't necessarily easy to master.
At the World Memory Championship, top competitors memorize the order of 20 shuffled decks of cards in an hour and more than 500 random digits in 15 minutes, among other events. They don’t have “better memories" than the rest of us. Instead, they learn and perfect a variety of mnemonics (memory aids) to improve their ability to quickly learn and recall just about anything.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Palace\\n1-1. Choose a place that can be easily visualized as the blueprint for your palace.\\nA memory palace must be a place or route that you are incredibly familiar with, like your childhood home or even your daily commute to work. It can be as small as your closet or as large as your entire neighborhood. The important thing is that you’re able to visualize the place in your head without actually seeing it in real life.\\nThe larger or more detailed the real place is, the more information you can store in the corresponding mental space.\\nOther options for memory palace locations include school, church, work, a vacation spot you visit frequently, or a friend’s house.\\n1-2. Walk through your palace to define a route.\\nDecide how you’ll travel through the palace in your mind rather than just picturing a fixed place. For example, instead of just imagining your house, imagine how you’d walk through it. Do you enter through the front door? What hallway do you walk down? What rooms do you go to? If you need to remember things in a certain order, follow a specific route through your palace, both in the real world and in your mind.\\nBeginning to practice your route now will make it easier to memorize later on, too.\\n1-3. Identify specific locations in the palace to store your information.\\nThink about exactly what you’re going to be putting in your memory palace, whether it’s a number, name, or important dates you need to remember for an exam. You’ll store each piece of data in a separate location so you need to identify as many locations as you have data. Each storage spot needs to be unique so that you don’t accidentally mistake one spot for another.\\nIf your palace itself is a route, like your drive to work, choose landmarks along the way. Some examples include your neighbor’s house, a traffic light, a statue, or a building.\\nIf your palace is a structure, consider separating information in different rooms. Then, within each room, identify smaller locations like paintings, pieces of furniture, or decor.\\n1-4. Practice visualizing your finished palace by physically drawing it.\\nOn a piece of paper, sketch your memory palace or, if it’s a route, map it out. Mark the landmarks or storage locations you’ve chosen. Close your eyes and try visualizing the palace in your head. Then check your mental image against the drawing to make sure you have remembered every location and that you’ve put them in the correct order.\\nPicture the landmarks in as much detail as possible. Make sure your mental image includes their colors, sizes, smells, and any other defining characteristics.\\nIf your mental image doesn’t match your drawing, review the drawing a few more times and then try again. Repeat until you can visualize it perfectly.\\nAnother option to practice visualizing your palace is to recite it to a friend. Walk them through the route verbally while they look at the map you drew to compare.\\n2. Filling Your Palace with Information\\n2-1. Place important information in small chunks around the palace.\\nPut a manageable amount of information in each spot. Don’t put too much information in any one place or it will be overwhelming for your brain to try to remember it all. If certain things must be kept separate from others, put them in distinctly different places.\\nIf necessary, place things along your route in the order in which you need to remember them.\\nIf your palace is your house, and you are trying to remember a speech, you might place the first few sentences on your doormat and the next few in the keyhole of your door.\\nPut your best friend's address in the mailbox outside or on an envelope on the kitchen table. Put their phone number on the couch where you always take their phone calls.\\nIf you're trying to remember U.S. presidents in order, make the washing machine George Washington. Walk further into the laundry room and find a pair of long johns, which represent John Adams.\\n2-2. Use simple images to symbolize complicated phrases or numbers.\\nYou don’t need to put a whole string of words or numbers in a given location to be able to remember it. All you need to store in each spot is something that will jog your memory and lead you to the actual idea you’re trying to remember. For example, if you’re trying to remember a ship, picture an anchor on your couch. If the ship is the U.S.S. Wisconsin, picture the anchor made out of cheese.\\nDon’t make your symbols too abstract. If they don't have an obvious correlation to what you’re memorizing, it defeats the purpose. You won’t be able to make the connection between the symbol and the information.\\nSymbols are shorthand and more effective than picturing the actual thing you are trying to remember.\\n2-3. Add people, emotional triggers, or bizarre images to remember data.\\nThe images you put in your palace should be as memorable as possible. Generally, images will be more memorable if they are out of the ordinary or attached to some strong emotion or personal experience. You might picture your mom placing her Social Security number on the kitchen table or an adorable puppy eating from a bowl that has your vocabulary test words on it.\\nAnother example uses the number 124, which isn’t memorable. But an image of a spear shaped like the number 1 going through a swan (which looks like the number 2) and splitting the swan into 4 pieces is. It’s disturbing, but that’s what makes it stick in your mind.\\nYou don't have to use only positive images. Negative emotions or images, like including a politician you hate, are just as strong.\\n2-4. Incorporate other mnemonics to recall longer strings of information.\\nCreate a simple mnemonic by forming an acronym using the first letters of the words in a phrase or make a little rhyme containing the information you’re trying to remember. Then insert these new shortened pieces of data into your memory palace instead of the longer piece.\\nFor instance, say you need to recall the order of notes on the lines of the treble clef (EGBDF). Imagine a little boy eating a piece of chocolate fudge, which would evoke the first-letter mnemonic “Every Good Boy Deserves Fudge.\\\"\\nA rhyming mnemonic is, “In 1492, Columbus sailed the ocean blue.” Envision Columbus holding a blue sailboat toy in your living room.\\n3. Using Memory Palaces\\n3-1. Spend at least 15 minutes exploring your palace every day.\\nThe more you walk through and spend time in your palace, the more easily you will recall its contents on demand. You want the visualization to feel effortless and natural. Try to walk through the entire route a couple of times or block out a chunk of time each day to visualize the palace from start to finish.\\nFor example, see James Joyce sitting on your toilet as if he belongs there and really is an integral part of your bathroom décor instead of an imagined image. This helps you remember that James Joyce was the author known for his toilet humor.\\nThe best part is you can practice this anywhere, anytime. All you have to do is close your eyes.\\n3-2. Recall information by walking through your palace or looking around it.\\nOnce you have memorized the contents of your palace remember them simply by following the route or visualizing a room. With practice you will be able to start anywhere in your palace or along your route to recall a specific piece of information.\\nIf you need to remember that your girlfriend’s birthday is March 16, simply go into your bedroom and see the soldiers “marching\\\" on the bed to the tune of the 80s cult classic “Sixteen Candles.\\\"\\n3-3. Clean up your memory palace when you need to update data.\\nA memory palace can be reused over and over again. Simply replace the existing contents with new information. After a few practice runs, you’ll soon forget the old data and only remember the new data in its place.\\nIf your palace is becoming too large or contains information you no longer need, remove that data from the route.\\n3-4. Build new palaces for different topics and information.\\nIf you have something new you’d like to commit to memory, but you don’t want to erase your current memory palace, simply build a new one. File the old palace away and start the process all over again, choosing a different place to use as your palace. Memory palaces will last as long as you want them to once they’re stored in your brain.\\nThere’s no limit to how many memory palaces you can build.\\nFor example, you might have your house store the names of all the U.S. presidents. Then, your walk to work contains the phone numbers of your friends and family. And your office itself has the contents of the speech you’re giving tomorrow.\\nTips\\nThere are many variations of the memory palace, such as the Roman Room and the Journey. They are all based on the Method of Loci, which which says that people are very good at remembering locations, and if you can associate abstract or unfamiliar ideas with a well-known location, you can more easily recall the things you want to.\\nBe persistent. The memory palace is a very powerful tool, but isn't necessarily easy to master.\\nAt the World Memory Championship, top competitors memorize the order of 20 shuffled decks of cards in an hour and more than 500 random digits in 15 minutes, among other events. They don’t have “better memories\\\" than the rest of us. Instead, they learn and perfect a variety of mnemonics (memory aids) to improve their ability to quickly learn and recall just about anything.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"One of the most useful memory aids was created thousands of years ago by the ancient Greeks. And the memory palace, a place in your mind where you can store information that you need to remember, is still relevant today. It's used not only by world record-holding memory champions but also by famous detective Sherlock Holmes. With a little planning and practice, you can build a memory palace, too.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Palace\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a place that can be easily visualized as the blueprint for your palace.\", \"描述\": \"A memory palace must be a place or route that you are incredibly familiar with, like your childhood home or even your daily commute to work. It can be as small as your closet or as large as your entire neighborhood. The important thing is that you’re able to visualize the place in your head without actually seeing it in real life.\\nThe larger or more detailed the real place is, the more information you can store in the corresponding mental space.\\nOther options for memory palace locations include school, church, work, a vacation spot you visit frequently, or a friend’s house.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Walk through your palace to define a route.\", \"描述\": \"Decide how you’ll travel through the palace in your mind rather than just picturing a fixed place. For example, instead of just imagining your house, imagine how you’d walk through it. Do you enter through the front door? What hallway do you walk down? What rooms do you go to? If you need to remember things in a certain order, follow a specific route through your palace, both in the real world and in your mind.\\nBeginning to practice your route now will make it easier to memorize later on, too.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Identify specific locations in the palace to store your information.\", \"描述\": \"Think about exactly what you’re going to be putting in your memory palace, whether it’s a number, name, or important dates you need to remember for an exam. You’ll store each piece of data in a separate location so you need to identify as many locations as you have data. Each storage spot needs to be unique so that you don’t accidentally mistake one spot for another.\\nIf your palace itself is a route, like your drive to work, choose landmarks along the way. Some examples include your neighbor’s house, a traffic light, a statue, or a building.\\nIf your palace is a structure, consider separating information in different rooms. Then, within each room, identify smaller locations like paintings, pieces of furniture, or decor.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Practice visualizing your finished palace by physically drawing it.\", \"描述\": \"On a piece of paper, sketch your memory palace or, if it’s a route, map it out. Mark the landmarks or storage locations you’ve chosen. Close your eyes and try visualizing the palace in your head. Then check your mental image against the drawing to make sure you have remembered every location and that you’ve put them in the correct order.\\nPicture the landmarks in as much detail as possible. Make sure your mental image includes their colors, sizes, smells, and any other defining characteristics.\\nIf your mental image doesn’t match your drawing, review the drawing a few more times and then try again. Repeat until you can visualize it perfectly.\\nAnother option to practice visualizing your palace is to recite it to a friend. Walk them through the route verbally while they look at the map you drew to compare.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Filling Your Palace with Information\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place important information in small chunks around the palace.\", \"描述\": \"Put a manageable amount of information in each spot. Don’t put too much information in any one place or it will be overwhelming for your brain to try to remember it all. If certain things must be kept separate from others, put them in distinctly different places.\\nIf necessary, place things along your route in the order in which you need to remember them.\\nIf your palace is your house, and you are trying to remember a speech, you might place the first few sentences on your doormat and the next few in the keyhole of your door.\\nPut your best friend's address in the mailbox outside or on an envelope on the kitchen table. Put their phone number on the couch where you always take their phone calls.\\nIf you're trying to remember U.S. presidents in order, make the washing machine George Washington. Walk further into the laundry room and find a pair of long johns, which represent John Adams.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use simple images to symbolize complicated phrases or numbers.\", \"描述\": \"You don’t need to put a whole string of words or numbers in a given location to be able to remember it. All you need to store in each spot is something that will jog your memory and lead you to the actual idea you’re trying to remember. For example, if you’re trying to remember a ship, picture an anchor on your couch. If the ship is the U.S.S. Wisconsin, picture the anchor made out of cheese.\\nDon’t make your symbols too abstract. If they don't have an obvious correlation to what you’re memorizing, it defeats the purpose. You won’t be able to make the connection between the symbol and the information.\\nSymbols are shorthand and more effective than picturing the actual thing you are trying to remember.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add people, emotional triggers, or bizarre images to remember data.\", \"描述\": \"The images you put in your palace should be as memorable as possible. Generally, images will be more memorable if they are out of the ordinary or attached to some strong emotion or personal experience. You might picture your mom placing her Social Security number on the kitchen table or an adorable puppy eating from a bowl that has your vocabulary test words on it.\\nAnother example uses the number 124, which isn’t memorable. But an image of a spear shaped like the number 1 going through a swan (which looks like the number 2) and splitting the swan into 4 pieces is. It’s disturbing, but that’s what makes it stick in your mind.\\nYou don't have to use only positive images. Negative emotions or images, like including a politician you hate, are just as strong.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Incorporate other mnemonics to recall longer strings of information.\", \"描述\": \"Create a simple mnemonic by forming an acronym using the first letters of the words in a phrase or make a little rhyme containing the information you’re trying to remember. Then insert these new shortened pieces of data into your memory palace instead of the longer piece.\\nFor instance, say you need to recall the order of notes on the lines of the treble clef (EGBDF). Imagine a little boy eating a piece of chocolate fudge, which would evoke the first-letter mnemonic “Every Good Boy Deserves Fudge.\\\"\\nA rhyming mnemonic is, “In 1492, Columbus sailed the ocean blue.” Envision Columbus holding a blue sailboat toy in your living room.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using Memory Palaces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Spend at least 15 minutes exploring your palace every day.\", \"描述\": \"The more you walk through and spend time in your palace, the more easily you will recall its contents on demand. You want the visualization to feel effortless and natural. Try to walk through the entire route a couple of times or block out a chunk of time each day to visualize the palace from start to finish.\\nFor example, see James Joyce sitting on your toilet as if he belongs there and really is an integral part of your bathroom décor instead of an imagined image. This helps you remember that James Joyce was the author known for his toilet humor.\\nThe best part is you can practice this anywhere, anytime. All you have to do is close your eyes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Recall information by walking through your palace or looking around it.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have memorized the contents of your palace remember them simply by following the route or visualizing a room. With practice you will be able to start anywhere in your palace or along your route to recall a specific piece of information.\\nIf you need to remember that your girlfriend’s birthday is March 16, simply go into your bedroom and see the soldiers “marching\\\" on the bed to the tune of the 80s cult classic “Sixteen Candles.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clean up your memory palace when you need to update data.\", \"描述\": \"A memory palace can be reused over and over again. Simply replace the existing contents with new information. After a few practice runs, you’ll soon forget the old data and only remember the new data in its place.\\nIf your palace is becoming too large or contains information you no longer need, remove that data from the route.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build new palaces for different topics and information.\", \"描述\": \"If you have something new you’d like to commit to memory, but you don’t want to erase your current memory palace, simply build a new one. File the old palace away and start the process all over again, choosing a different place to use as your palace. Memory palaces will last as long as you want them to once they’re stored in your brain.\\nThere’s no limit to how many memory palaces you can build.\\nFor example, you might have your house store the names of all the U.S. presidents. Then, your walk to work contains the phone numbers of your friends and family. And your office itself has the contents of the speech you’re giving tomorrow.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"There are many variations of the memory palace, such as the Roman Room and the Journey. They are all based on the Method of Loci, which which says that people are very good at remembering locations, and if you can associate abstract or unfamiliar ideas with a well-known location, you can more easily recall the things you want to.\\n\", \"Be persistent. The memory palace is a very powerful tool, but isn't necessarily easy to master.\\n\", \"At the World Memory Championship, top competitors memorize the order of 20 shuffled decks of cards in an hour and more than 500 random digits in 15 minutes, among other events. They don’t have “better memories\\\" than the rest of us. Instead, they learn and perfect a variety of mnemonics (memory aids) to improve their ability to quickly learn and recall just about anything.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,427 |
How to Build a Metal Detector
|
1. Using a Calculator and Radio to Detect Metal
1-1. Tune the radio to highest band on the AM setting.
Make sure you are not tuned to a station. You should hear the static tone clearly and steadily. This will allow you to hear any differences in the tone when your device detects a metal object.
1-2. Assemble the search head.
Turn on your calculator. Next, position the two devices back-to-back, until a steady, dull tone is emitted. You may have to arrange the devices at certain angles or distances to achieve this tone.
1-3. Tape your devices into the position.
Once the calculator and radio are producing the correct tone, you need to tape them in that position. If the distance is too awkward to tape your devices together, mount them in that position on a board. This will keep your search head sturdy and functioning properly as you search for metals.
1-4. Attach your search head to a shaft.
An old broomstick or similar pole will make a suitable shaft. Use duct tape as a quick and secure method to mount the shaft. Alternatively, you can use zip ties to fasten the two pieces together. Use whichever method works best for the shape of your search head..
1-5. Test your metal detector on some household metals.
First, prove that the metal detector works by placing a spoon on the table. Run the detector over the spoon and listen for the detector to beep or give off a new sound (different from the steady tone that it is producing). Now, you can take it outside or around your house to locate other metal objects.
2. Turning Your Smartphone into a Metal Detector
2-1. Download a metal detector app.
Smartphones are electrical devices, and as such they produce a magnetic field. There have been applications developed that allow you to use the phone’s own magnetic field to detect metal objects. Go to your respective app store (this differs from platform to platform) and download metal detector app.
One example of a metal detector app is the app “Metal Detector.”
2-2. Pass your phone over metals with the app open.
Once the app has downloaded, open it. Follow any setup instructions within the app so that it works optimally. When the app is loaded and ready, start passing your phone over different metal objects.
2-3. Watch the measured magnetic field change.
The metal detector apps work by measuring changes in the magnetic field of your phone. As you pass over metal, it interacts with this field and the app detects that interaction. These interactions show as fluctuations in the magnetic field as you move from object to object.
For example, as you pass over a metal object, the magnitude of the field may increase dramatically. This indicates that you have found something metal.
3. Assembling a Metal Detector Kit
3-1. Assemble the hardware.
You can buy metal detector kits that come with various pieces of hardware. Some will include a coil and shaft. Others will only include a control box. Choose the kit that is right for you and assemble the pieces per the instructions.
If you choose a kit with less hardware, you will have to make the additional pieces such as the shaft and coil.
3-2. Solder the circuits.
The control box will require soldering to complete all of the necessary circuits. You will need a soldering gun or iron to solder the components. If you have never soldered before, you should consider having a more experienced person help.
3-3. Test the metal detector.
Once you have assembled your metal detector, you should test it. Put down different metals on the floor and pass the coil over them. If the coil detects the metals, then you are ready to take your new metal detector out and start looking for treasures.
Warnings
Do not use a metal detector near electronic devices. The magnetic fields can damage the devices.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Using a Calculator and Radio to Detect Metal\\n1-1. Tune the radio to highest band on the AM setting.\\nMake sure you are not tuned to a station. You should hear the static tone clearly and steadily. This will allow you to hear any differences in the tone when your device detects a metal object.\\n1-2. Assemble the search head.\\nTurn on your calculator. Next, position the two devices back-to-back, until a steady, dull tone is emitted. You may have to arrange the devices at certain angles or distances to achieve this tone.\\n1-3. Tape your devices into the position.\\nOnce the calculator and radio are producing the correct tone, you need to tape them in that position. If the distance is too awkward to tape your devices together, mount them in that position on a board. This will keep your search head sturdy and functioning properly as you search for metals.\\n1-4. Attach your search head to a shaft.\\nAn old broomstick or similar pole will make a suitable shaft. Use duct tape as a quick and secure method to mount the shaft. Alternatively, you can use zip ties to fasten the two pieces together. Use whichever method works best for the shape of your search head..\\n1-5. Test your metal detector on some household metals.\\nFirst, prove that the metal detector works by placing a spoon on the table. Run the detector over the spoon and listen for the detector to beep or give off a new sound (different from the steady tone that it is producing). Now, you can take it outside or around your house to locate other metal objects.\\n2. Turning Your Smartphone into a Metal Detector\\n2-1. Download a metal detector app.\\nSmartphones are electrical devices, and as such they produce a magnetic field. There have been applications developed that allow you to use the phone’s own magnetic field to detect metal objects. Go to your respective app store (this differs from platform to platform) and download metal detector app.\\nOne example of a metal detector app is the app “Metal Detector.”\\n2-2. Pass your phone over metals with the app open.\\nOnce the app has downloaded, open it. Follow any setup instructions within the app so that it works optimally. When the app is loaded and ready, start passing your phone over different metal objects.\\n2-3. Watch the measured magnetic field change.\\nThe metal detector apps work by measuring changes in the magnetic field of your phone. As you pass over metal, it interacts with this field and the app detects that interaction. These interactions show as fluctuations in the magnetic field as you move from object to object.\\nFor example, as you pass over a metal object, the magnitude of the field may increase dramatically. This indicates that you have found something metal.\\n3. Assembling a Metal Detector Kit\\n3-1. Assemble the hardware.\\nYou can buy metal detector kits that come with various pieces of hardware. Some will include a coil and shaft. Others will only include a control box. Choose the kit that is right for you and assemble the pieces per the instructions.\\nIf you choose a kit with less hardware, you will have to make the additional pieces such as the shaft and coil.\\n3-2. Solder the circuits.\\nThe control box will require soldering to complete all of the necessary circuits. You will need a soldering gun or iron to solder the components. If you have never soldered before, you should consider having a more experienced person help.\\n3-3. Test the metal detector.\\nOnce you have assembled your metal detector, you should test it. Put down different metals on the floor and pass the coil over them. If the coil detects the metals, then you are ready to take your new metal detector out and start looking for treasures.\\nWarnings\\nDo not use a metal detector near electronic devices. The magnetic fields can damage the devices.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building your own metal detector is fun and educational. While building a traditional metal detector may require a kit (or in depth knowledge of electrical circuits), you can create simpler versions with household devices. The fastest way to detect metals is to use the magnet field on your smartphone. A more well known method is to use a calculator and a radio to make a metal detector.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Using a Calculator and Radio to Detect Metal\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Tune the radio to highest band on the AM setting.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you are not tuned to a station. You should hear the static tone clearly and steadily. This will allow you to hear any differences in the tone when your device detects a metal object.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assemble the search head.\", \"描述\": \"Turn on your calculator. Next, position the two devices back-to-back, until a steady, dull tone is emitted. You may have to arrange the devices at certain angles or distances to achieve this tone.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tape your devices into the position.\", \"描述\": \"Once the calculator and radio are producing the correct tone, you need to tape them in that position. If the distance is too awkward to tape your devices together, mount them in that position on a board. This will keep your search head sturdy and functioning properly as you search for metals.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach your search head to a shaft.\", \"描述\": \"An old broomstick or similar pole will make a suitable shaft. Use duct tape as a quick and secure method to mount the shaft. Alternatively, you can use zip ties to fasten the two pieces together. Use whichever method works best for the shape of your search head..\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Test your metal detector on some household metals.\", \"描述\": \"First, prove that the metal detector works by placing a spoon on the table. Run the detector over the spoon and listen for the detector to beep or give off a new sound (different from the steady tone that it is producing). Now, you can take it outside or around your house to locate other metal objects.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Turning Your Smartphone into a Metal Detector\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Download a metal detector app.\", \"描述\": \"Smartphones are electrical devices, and as such they produce a magnetic field. There have been applications developed that allow you to use the phone’s own magnetic field to detect metal objects. Go to your respective app store (this differs from platform to platform) and download metal detector app.\\nOne example of a metal detector app is the app “Metal Detector.”\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pass your phone over metals with the app open.\", \"描述\": \"Once the app has downloaded, open it. Follow any setup instructions within the app so that it works optimally. When the app is loaded and ready, start passing your phone over different metal objects.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Watch the measured magnetic field change.\", \"描述\": \"The metal detector apps work by measuring changes in the magnetic field of your phone. As you pass over metal, it interacts with this field and the app detects that interaction. These interactions show as fluctuations in the magnetic field as you move from object to object.\\nFor example, as you pass over a metal object, the magnitude of the field may increase dramatically. This indicates that you have found something metal.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling a Metal Detector Kit\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble the hardware.\", \"描述\": \"You can buy metal detector kits that come with various pieces of hardware. Some will include a coil and shaft. Others will only include a control box. Choose the kit that is right for you and assemble the pieces per the instructions.\\nIf you choose a kit with less hardware, you will have to make the additional pieces such as the shaft and coil.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Solder the circuits.\", \"描述\": \"The control box will require soldering to complete all of the necessary circuits. You will need a soldering gun or iron to solder the components. If you have never soldered before, you should consider having a more experienced person help.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Test the metal detector.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have assembled your metal detector, you should test it. Put down different metals on the floor and pass the coil over them. If the coil detects the metals, then you are ready to take your new metal detector out and start looking for treasures.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not use a metal detector near electronic devices. The magnetic fields can damage the devices.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,428 |
How to Build a Metal Melting Furnace for Casting
|
1. Making the Furnace Body
1-1. Cut a steel garbage can with an angle grinder so it’s 18 in (46 cm) tall.
Look for a steel garbage can that’s at least 18 inches (46 cm) tall and has a diameter of 16 inches (41 cm). If the garbage is taller than 18 inches (46 cm), put a metal-cutting blade on an angle grinder and turn it on. Carefully cut around the outside of the garbage can to trim it down to size.
Wear safety glasses while working with an angle grinder so you don’t get any metal scraps in your eyes.
Be careful of the cut edges on the garbage can since they may be sharp and could cut you easily.
If you don’t have an angle grinder or you just want a smaller forge, you can also use a 10 US qt (9.5 L) steel bucket that’s 11 in (28 cm) tall.
1-2. Drill a hole in the side of the garbage can that’s 4 in (10 cm) up from the bottom.
Attach a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole saw attachment to the end of a drill and tighten it until it’s secure. Line the hole up on the side of the bucket so it’s slightly off-center and about 4 inches (10 cm) up from the bottom of the can. Cut completely through the side of the garbage can.
The side hole will be where air or gas enters your forge to circulate the heat.
Don’t put the hole directly along the bottom of the garbage can or else it could get plugged up if there’s a spill inside the furnace.
1-3. Line the inside of the can with 2 in (5.1 cm) of ceramic fiber wool.
Ceramic fiber wool is a heat- and fire-resistant style of insulation that works well for homemade furnaces. Use a utility knife to cut a circular piece of ceramic fiber wool that’s the same size as the bottom of the garbage can. Push the piece of wool tightly against the bottom of the can. Then wrap the wool around the inner sidewalls of the garbage can as tightly as you can.
You can buy ceramic fiber wool from home improvement stores or online.
Ceramic fiber wool may cause irritation if it comes into contact with bare skin. Wear long sleeves and work gloves to help protect yourself.
1-4. Cut out the wool covering the hole in the side of the garbage can.
Find the hole you made in the side of the garbage can and poke through it with a craft knife. Guide the knife around the edge of the hole so you cut through the wool lining the side of the garbage can. Once you cut around the edge, pull the piece of wool out from the hole.
1-5. Spray a rigidizer on the wool and let it set for 24 hours.
Rigidizer is a chemical compound that activates the particles in the ceramic fiber wool so it solidifies and holds its shape. Pour the rigidizer compound into a spray bottle, and apply it to all exposed sides of wool. Allow the rigidizer to air-dry for at least 24 hours so it can set and harden the wool.
You can buy rigidizer online.
Label the spray bottle you use for your rigidizer so you don’t mix it up with other bottles you have.
Some ceramic fiber wool is pre-treated with rigidizer and will start to harden when it’s exposed to air. Check the packaging on the wool to see if there are any special instructions.
1-6. Paint the surface of the wool with furnace cement and let it set completely.
Mix the furnace cement with a stir stick to make sure it’s thoroughly combined. Then use a 2 in (5.1 cm) paintbrush to spread the cement on top of the wool. Make sure all of the exposed surfaces are completely covered so heat doesn’t escape. Let the cement cure for at least 24 hours before using your furnace.
You can buy premixed furnace cement from home improvement stores or online.
You don’t need to use furnace cement, but it can help prolong the life of your furnace and create a smooth, clean surface.
2. Insulating the Lid
2-1. Drill a 2 in (5.1 cm) vent in the top of the garbage can lid.
Use the lid that came with the garbage can you’re using for the main body of the furnace. Attach a 2 in (5.1 cm) hole saw attachment on your drill and tighten it until it’s secure. Position the vent hole 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) to one side of the lid’s handle and use the saw to cut through the metal.
Be sure to use a hole saw attachment made for metal or else you may damage the bit.
Never use a lid that doesn’t have a vent hole or else pressure could build up inside the furnace and cause it to explode or fail catastrophically.
2-2. Fill in the bottom of the lid with 2 in (5.1 cm) of ceramic fiber wool.
Cut out a circular piece of ceramic fiber wool that has a diameter that’s 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) larger than the bottom of the lid. Push the wool into the bottom of the lid so it presses against the sides and holds firmly in place. Continue adding layers of ceramic wool until it’s 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick to provide the best heat resistance.
Wear long-sleeved clothing and a dust mask that’s rated N95 or better while cutting and working with the wool since it can cause irritation and itchiness.
Always check the MSDS label on the ceramic wool you’re working with and follow any safety precautions listed on it.
If the wool doesn’t stick to the bottom of the lid, you can spray a heat-resistant adhesive on the lid before pushing the wool onto it. You can buy heat-resistant adhesive from hardware stores or online.
2-3. Cut a hole in the wool that lines up with the lid’s hole.
Flip the lid so the handle faces up and locate the hole you drilled early. Poke a craft knife along the edge of the hole so it goes completely through the wool. Saw back and forth along the edge of the hole to remove the section of wool covering it.
Don’t leave the wool over the hole or else your furnace won’t vent properly.
2-4. Apply a rigidizer to the wool and leave it to cure for 24 hours.
Put your rigidizer compound in a spray bottle, and apply it directly to the ceramic fiber wool on the lid. Make sure to coat all of the exposed surfaces with the rigidizer or else it won’t effectively harden. Once you’ve put the rigidizer on all of the wool, let it set in a well-ventilated room for at least 24 hours so it can set.
You can apply rigidizer with a paintbrush if you don’t have a spray bottle handy.
2-5. Brush furnace cement on all of the exposed wool to insulate it more.
Mix your furnace cement with a stir stick to make sure it’s thoroughly combined. Use a 2 in (5.1 cm) paintbrush to coat the exposed surfaces of the wool. Smooth out the cement with the brush before letting it set for at least 24 hours.
Put cardboard or shop cloths down before you apply the cement so you don’t accidentally get it on anything.
3. Providing a Fuel Source
3-1. Feed a steel pipe or burner through the side hole of the furnace.
The kind of pipe you use depends on what you want to use for your fuel source. If you want to use charcoal inside of your furnace, then put a 12 in (30 cm) steel pipe that has a diameter of 1 in (2.5 cm) through the hole. Make sure the pipe extends at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) past the inside wall of the furnace. If you want to use propane, place a burner inside of the furnace and feed the valve end of the pipe through the side hole. Position the end of the burner inside your furnace so it points off-center.
You can buy a furnace propane burner online.
Don’t use a regular steel pipe for propane since you won’t be able to control the flame as easily.
3-2. Attach an air blower to the end of the pipe with a coupler if you want to use charcoal.
A coupler allows you to attach pipes together without welding the pieces together. Slide the end of the coupler onto the end of the steel pipe that’s outside of the furnace. Slide the other end of the coupler over the end of an air blower to force air through the furnace so it heats better.
You can buy couplers from your local hardware store.
If you don’t have an air blower, you can use an old hair dryer on the highest fan setting to move the air.
3-3. Connect a propane tank to the other end of the burner if you’re using gas.
Attach an air supply hose between the valve on your propane tank and the control port on the end of the burner. Make sure the valves are completely closed while you aren’t running the furnace so you don’t waste your fuel or create a fire hazard.
You can attach any propane tank to your furnace, but small tanks will run out faster while you’re running your furnace.
3-4. Light your furnace
If you’re using charcoal, fill the bottom of the furnace with 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of briquettes and use a lighter to light them. Turn on the air blower on its lowest setting to help the furnace heat up further. If you’re using propane, open the valves on the tank and the burner. Reach a striker into the middle of your furnace and squeeze it to ignite the propane. Put the lid on top of the furnace so the heat doesn’t escape.
Use the valves on the propane tank and burner to control the size of the flame it produces.
The flames from your furnace may come out from the vent hole you made in the lid, so use caution while you’re handling it.
Charcoal furnaces can usually reach a temperature of about 1,200 °F (649 °C) while propane can reach 2,300 °F (1,260 °C).
3-5. Use a crucible when you want to melt metal.
A crucible is a metal container that you put inside of your furnace that holds the metal you’re melting. Put the metal you want to melt inside the crucible and use a pair of fire tongs to set it in the middle of your furnace. Allow the furnace to heat the crucible and melt the metal before taking it out with tongs for casting.
This furnace will melt low-temperature metals, such as aluminum and brass.
Warnings
Dust from ceramic fiber wool can cause irritation if it touches your skin or gets in your lungs. Always be sure to wear a dust mask that’s rated N95 or better, long-sleeved clothing, and work gloves while cutting it.[18]
X
Research source
Always make sure the valves on your propane tank are closed when you’re not using your furnace or else the fuel will leak and create a fire hazard.
Furnaces for melting metal can reach temperatures above 2,000 °F (1,090 °C), so be extremely careful while you’re running them.
Keep a fire extinguisher near your furnace in case there’s an emergency.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the Furnace Body\\n1-1. Cut a steel garbage can with an angle grinder so it’s 18 in (46 cm) tall.\\nLook for a steel garbage can that’s at least 18 inches (46 cm) tall and has a diameter of 16 inches (41 cm). If the garbage is taller than 18 inches (46 cm), put a metal-cutting blade on an angle grinder and turn it on. Carefully cut around the outside of the garbage can to trim it down to size.\\nWear safety glasses while working with an angle grinder so you don’t get any metal scraps in your eyes.\\nBe careful of the cut edges on the garbage can since they may be sharp and could cut you easily.\\nIf you don’t have an angle grinder or you just want a smaller forge, you can also use a 10 US qt (9.5 L) steel bucket that’s 11 in (28 cm) tall.\\n1-2. Drill a hole in the side of the garbage can that’s 4 in (10 cm) up from the bottom.\\nAttach a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole saw attachment to the end of a drill and tighten it until it’s secure. Line the hole up on the side of the bucket so it’s slightly off-center and about 4 inches (10 cm) up from the bottom of the can. Cut completely through the side of the garbage can.\\nThe side hole will be where air or gas enters your forge to circulate the heat.\\nDon’t put the hole directly along the bottom of the garbage can or else it could get plugged up if there’s a spill inside the furnace.\\n1-3. Line the inside of the can with 2 in (5.1 cm) of ceramic fiber wool.\\nCeramic fiber wool is a heat- and fire-resistant style of insulation that works well for homemade furnaces. Use a utility knife to cut a circular piece of ceramic fiber wool that’s the same size as the bottom of the garbage can. Push the piece of wool tightly against the bottom of the can. Then wrap the wool around the inner sidewalls of the garbage can as tightly as you can.\\nYou can buy ceramic fiber wool from home improvement stores or online.\\nCeramic fiber wool may cause irritation if it comes into contact with bare skin. Wear long sleeves and work gloves to help protect yourself.\\n1-4. Cut out the wool covering the hole in the side of the garbage can.\\nFind the hole you made in the side of the garbage can and poke through it with a craft knife. Guide the knife around the edge of the hole so you cut through the wool lining the side of the garbage can. Once you cut around the edge, pull the piece of wool out from the hole.\\n1-5. Spray a rigidizer on the wool and let it set for 24 hours.\\nRigidizer is a chemical compound that activates the particles in the ceramic fiber wool so it solidifies and holds its shape. Pour the rigidizer compound into a spray bottle, and apply it to all exposed sides of wool. Allow the rigidizer to air-dry for at least 24 hours so it can set and harden the wool.\\nYou can buy rigidizer online.\\nLabel the spray bottle you use for your rigidizer so you don’t mix it up with other bottles you have.\\nSome ceramic fiber wool is pre-treated with rigidizer and will start to harden when it’s exposed to air. Check the packaging on the wool to see if there are any special instructions.\\n1-6. Paint the surface of the wool with furnace cement and let it set completely.\\nMix the furnace cement with a stir stick to make sure it’s thoroughly combined. Then use a 2 in (5.1 cm) paintbrush to spread the cement on top of the wool. Make sure all of the exposed surfaces are completely covered so heat doesn’t escape. Let the cement cure for at least 24 hours before using your furnace.\\nYou can buy premixed furnace cement from home improvement stores or online.\\nYou don’t need to use furnace cement, but it can help prolong the life of your furnace and create a smooth, clean surface.\\n2. Insulating the Lid\\n2-1. Drill a 2 in (5.1 cm) vent in the top of the garbage can lid.\\nUse the lid that came with the garbage can you’re using for the main body of the furnace. Attach a 2 in (5.1 cm) hole saw attachment on your drill and tighten it until it’s secure. Position the vent hole 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) to one side of the lid’s handle and use the saw to cut through the metal.\\nBe sure to use a hole saw attachment made for metal or else you may damage the bit.\\nNever use a lid that doesn’t have a vent hole or else pressure could build up inside the furnace and cause it to explode or fail catastrophically.\\n2-2. Fill in the bottom of the lid with 2 in (5.1 cm) of ceramic fiber wool.\\nCut out a circular piece of ceramic fiber wool that has a diameter that’s 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) larger than the bottom of the lid. Push the wool into the bottom of the lid so it presses against the sides and holds firmly in place. Continue adding layers of ceramic wool until it’s 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick to provide the best heat resistance.\\nWear long-sleeved clothing and a dust mask that’s rated N95 or better while cutting and working with the wool since it can cause irritation and itchiness.\\nAlways check the MSDS label on the ceramic wool you’re working with and follow any safety precautions listed on it.\\nIf the wool doesn’t stick to the bottom of the lid, you can spray a heat-resistant adhesive on the lid before pushing the wool onto it. You can buy heat-resistant adhesive from hardware stores or online.\\n2-3. Cut a hole in the wool that lines up with the lid’s hole.\\nFlip the lid so the handle faces up and locate the hole you drilled early. Poke a craft knife along the edge of the hole so it goes completely through the wool. Saw back and forth along the edge of the hole to remove the section of wool covering it.\\nDon’t leave the wool over the hole or else your furnace won’t vent properly.\\n2-4. Apply a rigidizer to the wool and leave it to cure for 24 hours.\\nPut your rigidizer compound in a spray bottle, and apply it directly to the ceramic fiber wool on the lid. Make sure to coat all of the exposed surfaces with the rigidizer or else it won’t effectively harden. Once you’ve put the rigidizer on all of the wool, let it set in a well-ventilated room for at least 24 hours so it can set.\\nYou can apply rigidizer with a paintbrush if you don’t have a spray bottle handy.\\n2-5. Brush furnace cement on all of the exposed wool to insulate it more.\\nMix your furnace cement with a stir stick to make sure it’s thoroughly combined. Use a 2 in (5.1 cm) paintbrush to coat the exposed surfaces of the wool. Smooth out the cement with the brush before letting it set for at least 24 hours.\\nPut cardboard or shop cloths down before you apply the cement so you don’t accidentally get it on anything.\\n3. Providing a Fuel Source\\n3-1. Feed a steel pipe or burner through the side hole of the furnace.\\nThe kind of pipe you use depends on what you want to use for your fuel source. If you want to use charcoal inside of your furnace, then put a 12 in (30 cm) steel pipe that has a diameter of 1 in (2.5 cm) through the hole. Make sure the pipe extends at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) past the inside wall of the furnace. If you want to use propane, place a burner inside of the furnace and feed the valve end of the pipe through the side hole. Position the end of the burner inside your furnace so it points off-center.\\nYou can buy a furnace propane burner online.\\nDon’t use a regular steel pipe for propane since you won’t be able to control the flame as easily.\\n3-2. Attach an air blower to the end of the pipe with a coupler if you want to use charcoal.\\nA coupler allows you to attach pipes together without welding the pieces together. Slide the end of the coupler onto the end of the steel pipe that’s outside of the furnace. Slide the other end of the coupler over the end of an air blower to force air through the furnace so it heats better.\\nYou can buy couplers from your local hardware store.\\nIf you don’t have an air blower, you can use an old hair dryer on the highest fan setting to move the air.\\n3-3. Connect a propane tank to the other end of the burner if you’re using gas.\\nAttach an air supply hose between the valve on your propane tank and the control port on the end of the burner. Make sure the valves are completely closed while you aren’t running the furnace so you don’t waste your fuel or create a fire hazard.\\nYou can attach any propane tank to your furnace, but small tanks will run out faster while you’re running your furnace.\\n3-4. Light your furnace\\nIf you’re using charcoal, fill the bottom of the furnace with 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of briquettes and use a lighter to light them. Turn on the air blower on its lowest setting to help the furnace heat up further. If you’re using propane, open the valves on the tank and the burner. Reach a striker into the middle of your furnace and squeeze it to ignite the propane. Put the lid on top of the furnace so the heat doesn’t escape.\\nUse the valves on the propane tank and burner to control the size of the flame it produces.\\nThe flames from your furnace may come out from the vent hole you made in the lid, so use caution while you’re handling it.\\nCharcoal furnaces can usually reach a temperature of about 1,200 °F (649 °C) while propane can reach 2,300 °F (1,260 °C).\\n3-5. Use a crucible when you want to melt metal.\\nA crucible is a metal container that you put inside of your furnace that holds the metal you’re melting. Put the metal you want to melt inside the crucible and use a pair of fire tongs to set it in the middle of your furnace. Allow the furnace to heat the crucible and melt the metal before taking it out with tongs for casting.\\nThis furnace will melt low-temperature metals, such as aluminum and brass.\\nWarnings\\nDust from ceramic fiber wool can cause irritation if it touches your skin or gets in your lungs. Always be sure to wear a dust mask that’s rated N95 or better, long-sleeved clothing, and work gloves while cutting it.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nAlways make sure the valves on your propane tank are closed when you’re not using your furnace or else the fuel will leak and create a fire hazard.\\nFurnaces for melting metal can reach temperatures above 2,000 °F (1,090 °C), so be extremely careful while you’re running them.\\nKeep a fire extinguisher near your furnace in case there’s an emergency.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you want to cast metal into different shapes, you need to have a furnace that gets hot enough to melt the metal. While you can buy premade furnaces, you can also make your own using an insulated garbage can. Start by cutting the garbage can down to size and lining it with heat-resistant insulation. Once you have the furnace built, insulate the lid so it retains heat and vents built-up pressure. After you attach a heat source to the furnace, you’ll be able to use it for casting!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the Furnace Body\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut a steel garbage can with an angle grinder so it’s 18 in (46 cm) tall.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a steel garbage can that’s at least 18 inches (46 cm) tall and has a diameter of 16 inches (41 cm). If the garbage is taller than 18 inches (46 cm), put a metal-cutting blade on an angle grinder and turn it on. Carefully cut around the outside of the garbage can to trim it down to size.\\nWear safety glasses while working with an angle grinder so you don’t get any metal scraps in your eyes.\\nBe careful of the cut edges on the garbage can since they may be sharp and could cut you easily.\\nIf you don’t have an angle grinder or you just want a smaller forge, you can also use a 10 US qt (9.5 L) steel bucket that’s 11 in (28 cm) tall.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole in the side of the garbage can that’s 4 in (10 cm) up from the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Attach a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole saw attachment to the end of a drill and tighten it until it’s secure. Line the hole up on the side of the bucket so it’s slightly off-center and about 4 inches (10 cm) up from the bottom of the can. Cut completely through the side of the garbage can.\\nThe side hole will be where air or gas enters your forge to circulate the heat.\\nDon’t put the hole directly along the bottom of the garbage can or else it could get plugged up if there’s a spill inside the furnace.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Line the inside of the can with 2 in (5.1 cm) of ceramic fiber wool.\", \"描述\": \"Ceramic fiber wool is a heat- and fire-resistant style of insulation that works well for homemade furnaces. Use a utility knife to cut a circular piece of ceramic fiber wool that’s the same size as the bottom of the garbage can. Push the piece of wool tightly against the bottom of the can. Then wrap the wool around the inner sidewalls of the garbage can as tightly as you can.\\nYou can buy ceramic fiber wool from home improvement stores or online.\\nCeramic fiber wool may cause irritation if it comes into contact with bare skin. Wear long sleeves and work gloves to help protect yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut out the wool covering the hole in the side of the garbage can.\", \"描述\": \"Find the hole you made in the side of the garbage can and poke through it with a craft knife. Guide the knife around the edge of the hole so you cut through the wool lining the side of the garbage can. Once you cut around the edge, pull the piece of wool out from the hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Spray a rigidizer on the wool and let it set for 24 hours.\", \"描述\": \"Rigidizer is a chemical compound that activates the particles in the ceramic fiber wool so it solidifies and holds its shape. Pour the rigidizer compound into a spray bottle, and apply it to all exposed sides of wool. Allow the rigidizer to air-dry for at least 24 hours so it can set and harden the wool.\\nYou can buy rigidizer online.\\nLabel the spray bottle you use for your rigidizer so you don’t mix it up with other bottles you have.\\nSome ceramic fiber wool is pre-treated with rigidizer and will start to harden when it’s exposed to air. Check the packaging on the wool to see if there are any special instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Paint the surface of the wool with furnace cement and let it set completely.\", \"描述\": \"Mix the furnace cement with a stir stick to make sure it’s thoroughly combined. Then use a 2 in (5.1 cm) paintbrush to spread the cement on top of the wool. Make sure all of the exposed surfaces are completely covered so heat doesn’t escape. Let the cement cure for at least 24 hours before using your furnace.\\nYou can buy premixed furnace cement from home improvement stores or online.\\nYou don’t need to use furnace cement, but it can help prolong the life of your furnace and create a smooth, clean surface.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Insulating the Lid\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drill a 2 in (5.1 cm) vent in the top of the garbage can lid.\", \"描述\": \"Use the lid that came with the garbage can you’re using for the main body of the furnace. Attach a 2 in (5.1 cm) hole saw attachment on your drill and tighten it until it’s secure. Position the vent hole 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) to one side of the lid’s handle and use the saw to cut through the metal.\\nBe sure to use a hole saw attachment made for metal or else you may damage the bit.\\nNever use a lid that doesn’t have a vent hole or else pressure could build up inside the furnace and cause it to explode or fail catastrophically.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill in the bottom of the lid with 2 in (5.1 cm) of ceramic fiber wool.\", \"描述\": \"Cut out a circular piece of ceramic fiber wool that has a diameter that’s 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) larger than the bottom of the lid. Push the wool into the bottom of the lid so it presses against the sides and holds firmly in place. Continue adding layers of ceramic wool until it’s 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick to provide the best heat resistance.\\nWear long-sleeved clothing and a dust mask that’s rated N95 or better while cutting and working with the wool since it can cause irritation and itchiness.\\nAlways check the MSDS label on the ceramic wool you’re working with and follow any safety precautions listed on it.\\nIf the wool doesn’t stick to the bottom of the lid, you can spray a heat-resistant adhesive on the lid before pushing the wool onto it. You can buy heat-resistant adhesive from hardware stores or online.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut a hole in the wool that lines up with the lid’s hole.\", \"描述\": \"Flip the lid so the handle faces up and locate the hole you drilled early. Poke a craft knife along the edge of the hole so it goes completely through the wool. Saw back and forth along the edge of the hole to remove the section of wool covering it.\\nDon’t leave the wool over the hole or else your furnace won’t vent properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Apply a rigidizer to the wool and leave it to cure for 24 hours.\", \"描述\": \"Put your rigidizer compound in a spray bottle, and apply it directly to the ceramic fiber wool on the lid. Make sure to coat all of the exposed surfaces with the rigidizer or else it won’t effectively harden. Once you’ve put the rigidizer on all of the wool, let it set in a well-ventilated room for at least 24 hours so it can set.\\nYou can apply rigidizer with a paintbrush if you don’t have a spray bottle handy.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Brush furnace cement on all of the exposed wool to insulate it more.\", \"描述\": \"Mix your furnace cement with a stir stick to make sure it’s thoroughly combined. Use a 2 in (5.1 cm) paintbrush to coat the exposed surfaces of the wool. Smooth out the cement with the brush before letting it set for at least 24 hours.\\nPut cardboard or shop cloths down before you apply the cement so you don’t accidentally get it on anything.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Providing a Fuel Source\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Feed a steel pipe or burner through the side hole of the furnace.\", \"描述\": \"The kind of pipe you use depends on what you want to use for your fuel source. If you want to use charcoal inside of your furnace, then put a 12 in (30 cm) steel pipe that has a diameter of 1 in (2.5 cm) through the hole. Make sure the pipe extends at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) past the inside wall of the furnace. If you want to use propane, place a burner inside of the furnace and feed the valve end of the pipe through the side hole. Position the end of the burner inside your furnace so it points off-center.\\nYou can buy a furnace propane burner online.\\nDon’t use a regular steel pipe for propane since you won’t be able to control the flame as easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach an air blower to the end of the pipe with a coupler if you want to use charcoal.\", \"描述\": \"A coupler allows you to attach pipes together without welding the pieces together. Slide the end of the coupler onto the end of the steel pipe that’s outside of the furnace. Slide the other end of the coupler over the end of an air blower to force air through the furnace so it heats better.\\nYou can buy couplers from your local hardware store.\\nIf you don’t have an air blower, you can use an old hair dryer on the highest fan setting to move the air.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect a propane tank to the other end of the burner if you’re using gas.\", \"描述\": \"Attach an air supply hose between the valve on your propane tank and the control port on the end of the burner. Make sure the valves are completely closed while you aren’t running the furnace so you don’t waste your fuel or create a fire hazard.\\nYou can attach any propane tank to your furnace, but small tanks will run out faster while you’re running your furnace.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Light your furnace\", \"描述\": \"If you’re using charcoal, fill the bottom of the furnace with 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of briquettes and use a lighter to light them. Turn on the air blower on its lowest setting to help the furnace heat up further. If you’re using propane, open the valves on the tank and the burner. Reach a striker into the middle of your furnace and squeeze it to ignite the propane. Put the lid on top of the furnace so the heat doesn’t escape.\\nUse the valves on the propane tank and burner to control the size of the flame it produces.\\nThe flames from your furnace may come out from the vent hole you made in the lid, so use caution while you’re handling it.\\nCharcoal furnaces can usually reach a temperature of about 1,200 °F (649 °C) while propane can reach 2,300 °F (1,260 °C).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use a crucible when you want to melt metal.\", \"描述\": \"A crucible is a metal container that you put inside of your furnace that holds the metal you’re melting. Put the metal you want to melt inside the crucible and use a pair of fire tongs to set it in the middle of your furnace. Allow the furnace to heat the crucible and melt the metal before taking it out with tongs for casting.\\nThis furnace will melt low-temperature metals, such as aluminum and brass.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Dust from ceramic fiber wool can cause irritation if it touches your skin or gets in your lungs. Always be sure to wear a dust mask that’s rated N95 or better, long-sleeved clothing, and work gloves while cutting it.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Always make sure the valves on your propane tank are closed when you’re not using your furnace or else the fuel will leak and create a fire hazard.\\n\", \"Furnaces for melting metal can reach temperatures above 2,000 °F (1,090 °C), so be extremely careful while you’re running them.\\n\", \"Keep a fire extinguisher near your furnace in case there’s an emergency.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,429 |
How to Build a Minecraft Cottage
|
1. Building the House
1-1. Place 4 logs of any type in a 5 by 5 square.
1-2. Place 3 planks, preferably the same kind of wood you used for the logs, in between each log.
One side will have the door, so be sure to leave a space in the middle for it. If you have an eye for designing, you can use different logs and planks that look good together.
1-3. Place one log above each wood log that you have.
Place a wooden plank next to each new log, leaving space for windows (if desired).
1-4. Add a door and (optionally) some glass panes for windows.
1-5. Place cobblestone on the top of your house.
This should form a roof. You could also use wood logs and planks.
1-6. Add cobblestone stairs to the edges of your roof.
1-7. Add torches on the inside of your cottage.
If there are no torches on the inside, hostile mobs will spawn inside your house.
1-8. Decorate your cottage.
To start off, put in a crafting table, a furnace, a few chests and a bed.
2. Adding Optional Features
2-1. Add cobblestone stairs all the way up your roof, forming a small pyramid.
This step is optional, but it will make your house look nicer.
2-2. Add flowers of your choice along the sides of your house.
Since the new update, there are plenty of flowers to choose from. An alternating pattern will look the nicest.
2-3. Add a rooftop garden!
You need a flat roof, some dirt, ladders for getting up there (stairs are too cramped) water, fences and seeds. Lay out the fences along the edge of your roof, so you won't fall off.
2-4. Create a secret underground tunnel!
Make a deep (at least 3 blocks) hole underneath the floor, and add ladders so you can climb down. Then start a tunnel leading to a secret room! Maybe a pool, a doghouse, a cool bedroom- anything you want! Remember, since this is a secret tunnel, nobody but you should know where it is.
2-5. Here's something you can do once you've built your house:
Mine the , (logs are the wood straight from the tree with bark and all, planks are logs that you get by crafting. Place logs one block outwards from where they were in the beginning. You should now have a one-block space in between the corners of your house. Extend the roof to these logs. Underneath this new roof space is a good spot to add flowers.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the House\\n1-1. Place 4 logs of any type in a 5 by 5 square.\\n\\n1-2. Place 3 planks, preferably the same kind of wood you used for the logs, in between each log.\\nOne side will have the door, so be sure to leave a space in the middle for it. If you have an eye for designing, you can use different logs and planks that look good together.\\n1-3. Place one log above each wood log that you have.\\nPlace a wooden plank next to each new log, leaving space for windows (if desired).\\n1-4. Add a door and (optionally) some glass panes for windows.\\n\\n1-5. Place cobblestone on the top of your house.\\nThis should form a roof. You could also use wood logs and planks.\\n1-6. Add cobblestone stairs to the edges of your roof.\\n\\n1-7. Add torches on the inside of your cottage.\\nIf there are no torches on the inside, hostile mobs will spawn inside your house.\\n1-8. Decorate your cottage.\\nTo start off, put in a crafting table, a furnace, a few chests and a bed.\\n2. Adding Optional Features\\n2-1. Add cobblestone stairs all the way up your roof, forming a small pyramid.\\nThis step is optional, but it will make your house look nicer.\\n2-2. Add flowers of your choice along the sides of your house.\\nSince the new update, there are plenty of flowers to choose from. An alternating pattern will look the nicest.\\n2-3. Add a rooftop garden!\\nYou need a flat roof, some dirt, ladders for getting up there (stairs are too cramped) water, fences and seeds. Lay out the fences along the edge of your roof, so you won't fall off.\\n2-4. Create a secret underground tunnel!\\nMake a deep (at least 3 blocks) hole underneath the floor, and add ladders so you can climb down. Then start a tunnel leading to a secret room! Maybe a pool, a doghouse, a cool bedroom- anything you want! Remember, since this is a secret tunnel, nobody but you should know where it is.\\n2-5. Here's something you can do once you've built your house:\\nMine the , (logs are the wood straight from the tree with bark and all, planks are logs that you get by crafting. Place logs one block outwards from where they were in the beginning. You should now have a one-block space in between the corners of your house. Extend the roof to these logs. Underneath this new roof space is a good spot to add flowers.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Below is how to craft a small Minecraft house using commonly found items. It's not too hard, and it looks nice, but be warned- it is only 5 by 5 blocks! If you like, you can expand it to 7 by 7. Just place the logs accordingly. Feel free to use whichever logs you like, but the wood should be the same type.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place 4 logs of any type in a 5 by 5 square.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place 3 planks, preferably the same kind of wood you used for the logs, in between each log.\", \"描述\": \"One side will have the door, so be sure to leave a space in the middle for it. If you have an eye for designing, you can use different logs and planks that look good together.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place one log above each wood log that you have.\", \"描述\": \"Place a wooden plank next to each new log, leaving space for windows (if desired).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a door and (optionally) some glass panes for windows.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place cobblestone on the top of your house.\", \"描述\": \"This should form a roof. You could also use wood logs and planks.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add cobblestone stairs to the edges of your roof.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add torches on the inside of your cottage.\", \"描述\": \"If there are no torches on the inside, hostile mobs will spawn inside your house.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Decorate your cottage.\", \"描述\": \"To start off, put in a crafting table, a furnace, a few chests and a bed.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding Optional Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add cobblestone stairs all the way up your roof, forming a small pyramid.\", \"描述\": \"This step is optional, but it will make your house look nicer.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add flowers of your choice along the sides of your house.\", \"描述\": \"Since the new update, there are plenty of flowers to choose from. An alternating pattern will look the nicest.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a rooftop garden!\", \"描述\": \"You need a flat roof, some dirt, ladders for getting up there (stairs are too cramped) water, fences and seeds. Lay out the fences along the edge of your roof, so you won't fall off.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a secret underground tunnel!\", \"描述\": \"Make a deep (at least 3 blocks) hole underneath the floor, and add ladders so you can climb down. Then start a tunnel leading to a secret room! Maybe a pool, a doghouse, a cool bedroom- anything you want! Remember, since this is a secret tunnel, nobody but you should know where it is.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Here's something you can do once you've built your house:\", \"描述\": \"Mine the , (logs are the wood straight from the tree with bark and all, planks are logs that you get by crafting. Place logs one block outwards from where they were in the beginning. You should now have a one-block space in between the corners of your house. Extend the roof to these logs. Underneath this new roof space is a good spot to add flowers.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,430 |
How to Build a Minecraft Village
|
1. Steps
1-1. Build a foundation.
It's important because you'll get the idea of how large to build, preferably around 50x60. You can break this afterwards, yet having a wall around your village will help protect it from mobs. Having a gate will allow access to the outside of your village.
It's better to have somewhere for your White House, so make more places for the White House, probably 55x70. But you can decide how big is your White House.
1-2. Build the village's White House.
Preferably, you will be the mayor as you built it all, so it can also be your house. However, this is optional.
1-3. Build a road in your village.
You can also build city roads if you think your village needs to be better.
1-4. Build houses.
Size and the amount of houses in the street is all up to you. If you have a small foundation, maybe 3 cottages on each side. If it is large, maybe 4 houses on each side.
1-5. Build community buildings.
The basic ones:
Shop/Market/Supermarket
Restaurant/Cafe/Pub
Village Government Building/Town/City Hall
Village/Town/City Courts
TV/Radio stations
Bank/Tax Court
Preschool/Elementary/High School/Collage/University
Churches/Cathedrals/Mosques/Buddhist Temples
Jails/Police/Fire Stations/Hospitals
Wind/Solar/Oil/Nuclear/Coal Power Plant
Water Tower/Pumping Stations
Sewage Outflow Pipe/Treatment Plant
Garbage Dumps/Incinerators/Recycling Centers
1-6. Populate your village.
You didn't build a village for yourself, so spawn some villagers by using /summon villager command. You can change the attributes of villagers upon summoning them.
1-7. Come up with where people will work.
It depends, really. What are your community lots? Having a shop will allow shopkeepers, and a school will allow teachers. Think about that.
1-8. Write some laws.
You provide a nice shelter for your citizens, so use the imagination to create laws for your village. Also, think of some punishments for those rebels and zombies who break your law(s).
1-9. Make a big underground shelter for your villagers to secure them or store things.Probably 25x25.
1-10. Turn it into a server (optional).
1-11. You've built a village.
Have fun playing as a mayor!
Be creative! You can also try building some cool skyscraper houses!
Tips
Use 4 blocks of iron and a pumpkin to make an Iron Golem, use it as a guard for your village.
To protect your villagers from hostile mob attacks, build iron Golems by putting two blocks of iron on top of each other, then putting one on both sides of the top block. Finally place a pumpkin on top of the middle block.
Make sure to defend it from zombies and husks looking for snacks!
Warnings
If you spawn villagers on the roof of a building, they will eventually run off and hurt themselves, possibly making it easier for zombies to kill them quickly (unless your difficulty is set to Peaceful).
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Build a foundation.\\nIt's important because you'll get the idea of how large to build, preferably around 50x60. You can break this afterwards, yet having a wall around your village will help protect it from mobs. Having a gate will allow access to the outside of your village.\\nIt's better to have somewhere for your White House, so make more places for the White House, probably 55x70. But you can decide how big is your White House.\\n1-2. Build the village's White House.\\nPreferably, you will be the mayor as you built it all, so it can also be your house. However, this is optional.\\n1-3. Build a road in your village.\\nYou can also build city roads if you think your village needs to be better.\\n1-4. Build houses.\\nSize and the amount of houses in the street is all up to you. If you have a small foundation, maybe 3 cottages on each side. If it is large, maybe 4 houses on each side.\\n1-5. Build community buildings.\\nThe basic ones:\\nShop/Market/Supermarket\\nRestaurant/Cafe/Pub\\nVillage Government Building/Town/City Hall\\nVillage/Town/City Courts\\nTV/Radio stations\\nBank/Tax Court\\nPreschool/Elementary/High School/Collage/University\\nChurches/Cathedrals/Mosques/Buddhist Temples\\nJails/Police/Fire Stations/Hospitals\\nWind/Solar/Oil/Nuclear/Coal Power Plant\\nWater Tower/Pumping Stations\\nSewage Outflow Pipe/Treatment Plant\\nGarbage Dumps/Incinerators/Recycling Centers\\n1-6. Populate your village.\\nYou didn't build a village for yourself, so spawn some villagers by using /summon villager command. You can change the attributes of villagers upon summoning them.\\n1-7. Come up with where people will work.\\nIt depends, really. What are your community lots? Having a shop will allow shopkeepers, and a school will allow teachers. Think about that.\\n1-8. Write some laws.\\nYou provide a nice shelter for your citizens, so use the imagination to create laws for your village. Also, think of some punishments for those rebels and zombies who break your law(s).\\n1-9. Make a big underground shelter for your villagers to secure them or store things.Probably 25x25.\\n\\n1-10. Turn it into a server (optional).\\n\\n1-11. You've built a village.\\nHave fun playing as a mayor!\\nBe creative! You can also try building some cool skyscraper houses!\\nTips\\nUse 4 blocks of iron and a pumpkin to make an Iron Golem, use it as a guard for your village.\\nTo protect your villagers from hostile mob attacks, build iron Golems by putting two blocks of iron on top of each other, then putting one on both sides of the top block. Finally place a pumpkin on top of the middle block.\\nMake sure to defend it from zombies and husks looking for snacks!\\nWarnings\\nIf you spawn villagers on the roof of a building, they will eventually run off and hurt themselves, possibly making it easier for zombies to kill them quickly (unless your difficulty is set to Peaceful).\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Getting bored being all alone? Don't like those messy generated villages? It seems like you've come to the right place! This article will teach you how to build a village, town or city to live in with some villagers.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a foundation.\", \"描述\": \"It's important because you'll get the idea of how large to build, preferably around 50x60. You can break this afterwards, yet having a wall around your village will help protect it from mobs. Having a gate will allow access to the outside of your village.\\nIt's better to have somewhere for your White House, so make more places for the White House, probably 55x70. But you can decide how big is your White House.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the village's White House.\", \"描述\": \"Preferably, you will be the mayor as you built it all, so it can also be your house. However, this is optional.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a road in your village.\", \"描述\": \"You can also build city roads if you think your village needs to be better.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build houses.\", \"描述\": \"Size and the amount of houses in the street is all up to you. If you have a small foundation, maybe 3 cottages on each side. If it is large, maybe 4 houses on each side.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build community buildings.\", \"描述\": \"The basic ones:\\nShop/Market/Supermarket\\nRestaurant/Cafe/Pub\\nVillage Government Building/Town/City Hall\\nVillage/Town/City Courts\\nTV/Radio stations\\nBank/Tax Court\\nPreschool/Elementary/High School/Collage/University\\nChurches/Cathedrals/Mosques/Buddhist Temples\\nJails/Police/Fire Stations/Hospitals\\nWind/Solar/Oil/Nuclear/Coal Power Plant\\nWater Tower/Pumping Stations\\nSewage Outflow Pipe/Treatment Plant\\nGarbage Dumps/Incinerators/Recycling Centers\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Populate your village.\", \"描述\": \"You didn't build a village for yourself, so spawn some villagers by using /summon villager command. You can change the attributes of villagers upon summoning them.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Come up with where people will work.\", \"描述\": \"It depends, really. What are your community lots? Having a shop will allow shopkeepers, and a school will allow teachers. Think about that.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Write some laws.\", \"描述\": \"You provide a nice shelter for your citizens, so use the imagination to create laws for your village. Also, think of some punishments for those rebels and zombies who break your law(s).\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Make a big underground shelter for your villagers to secure them or store things.Probably 25x25.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Turn it into a server (optional).\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"You've built a village.\", \"描述\": \"Have fun playing as a mayor!\\nBe creative! You can also try building some cool skyscraper houses!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use 4 blocks of iron and a pumpkin to make an Iron Golem, use it as a guard for your village.\\n\", \"To protect your villagers from hostile mob attacks, build iron Golems by putting two blocks of iron on top of each other, then putting one on both sides of the top block. Finally place a pumpkin on top of the middle block.\\n\", \"Make sure to defend it from zombies and husks looking for snacks!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you spawn villagers on the roof of a building, they will eventually run off and hurt themselves, possibly making it easier for zombies to kill them quickly (unless your difficulty is set to Peaceful).\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,431 |
How to Build a Mini Coffin
|
1. Steps
1-1. Know what the objective is.
You will be building this Mini Coffin.
The overall size will be as shown.
1-2. Cut the 5 ½” wide board to 1 foot (0.3 m) in length.
Repeat so you have two identical pieces. Measure and mark a vertical center line (2 ¾” from edge) on one of the pieces. Use this centerline to measure off the top and bottom cuts.
1-3. Next, measure and mark a horizontal line (2 ¾” from top) for the intersection point.
Connect points to outline the coffin top and bottom.
1-4. Since the top and bottom need to be identical, attach the boards together before cutting.
Nails can be used on the portions that you plan to remove.
1-5. Cut the boards to match the outline.
This project used a miter saw with a laser site. However, these cuts could be made with a table, circular or handsaw. At this point, unless you are an expert woodworker, you will notice that the length of the sides doesn't match the drawing exactly. Don't worry, this isn't critical.
1-6. Cut strips of wood to 1 ¾” wide.
You will need enough wood to match the perimeter of the coffin.
1-7. Start with the bottom side.
Set the miter saw to an angle of 40.8 degrees (90 – 49.2). Cut one chamber. Reverse the work piece and cut the same chamfer on the other side. Cut it long and then make a few extra cuts until you match the bottom length.
1-8. Without touching the angle on the saw, cut two matching pieces for the long sides.
Cut the 40.8 degree angle on one side – leave the work piece long since you will be cutting a different angle on the other end. Do a fit check at this point. The bottom side and long side should mate nicely when positioned on the bottom work piece.
1-9. Cut the top side using the same process as above.
Angle should be 36.8 degrees. Again, match the side length to the bottom length.
1-10. Without touching the angle on the saw, cut two matching pieces for the short sides.
Cut the 36.8 degree angle on one side – leave the work piece long since you will be cutting a different angle on the other end. Again, do a fit check.
1-11. Set the saw to 12.5 degrees and cut the remaining angles for the long and short sides.
For reference, marked a number on the bottom and the matching side since each length could be slightly different.
1-12. Do a dry fit of the pieces to make sure everything will go together cleanly.
If not, adjust as needed. Attach the sides to the bottom and to the other sides. Use glue and clamps. Wood filler could be used at this point.
1-13. Sand wood and stain or paint as desired.
1-14. Final Product will be made as desired.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Know what the objective is.\\nYou will be building this Mini Coffin.\\nThe overall size will be as shown.\\n1-2. Cut the 5 ½” wide board to 1 foot (0.3 m) in length.\\nRepeat so you have two identical pieces. Measure and mark a vertical center line (2 ¾” from edge) on one of the pieces. Use this centerline to measure off the top and bottom cuts.\\n1-3. Next, measure and mark a horizontal line (2 ¾” from top) for the intersection point.\\nConnect points to outline the coffin top and bottom.\\n1-4. Since the top and bottom need to be identical, attach the boards together before cutting.\\nNails can be used on the portions that you plan to remove.\\n1-5. Cut the boards to match the outline.\\nThis project used a miter saw with a laser site. However, these cuts could be made with a table, circular or handsaw. At this point, unless you are an expert woodworker, you will notice that the length of the sides doesn't match the drawing exactly. Don't worry, this isn't critical.\\n1-6. Cut strips of wood to 1 ¾” wide.\\nYou will need enough wood to match the perimeter of the coffin.\\n1-7. Start with the bottom side.\\nSet the miter saw to an angle of 40.8 degrees (90 – 49.2). Cut one chamber. Reverse the work piece and cut the same chamfer on the other side. Cut it long and then make a few extra cuts until you match the bottom length.\\n1-8. Without touching the angle on the saw, cut two matching pieces for the long sides.\\nCut the 40.8 degree angle on one side – leave the work piece long since you will be cutting a different angle on the other end. Do a fit check at this point. The bottom side and long side should mate nicely when positioned on the bottom work piece.\\n1-9. Cut the top side using the same process as above.\\nAngle should be 36.8 degrees. Again, match the side length to the bottom length.\\n1-10. Without touching the angle on the saw, cut two matching pieces for the short sides.\\nCut the 36.8 degree angle on one side – leave the work piece long since you will be cutting a different angle on the other end. Again, do a fit check.\\n1-11. Set the saw to 12.5 degrees and cut the remaining angles for the long and short sides.\\nFor reference, marked a number on the bottom and the matching side since each length could be slightly different.\\n1-12. Do a dry fit of the pieces to make sure everything will go together cleanly.\\nIf not, adjust as needed. Attach the sides to the bottom and to the other sides. Use glue and clamps. Wood filler could be used at this point.\\n1-13. Sand wood and stain or paint as desired.\\n\\n1-14. Final Product will be made as desired.\\n\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This 1 foot (0.3 m) long coffin was scaled from a full size version.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know what the objective is.\", \"描述\": \"You will be building this Mini Coffin.\\nThe overall size will be as shown.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the 5 ½” wide board to 1 foot (0.3 m) in length.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat so you have two identical pieces. Measure and mark a vertical center line (2 ¾” from edge) on one of the pieces. Use this centerline to measure off the top and bottom cuts.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Next, measure and mark a horizontal line (2 ¾” from top) for the intersection point.\", \"描述\": \"Connect points to outline the coffin top and bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Since the top and bottom need to be identical, attach the boards together before cutting.\", \"描述\": \"Nails can be used on the portions that you plan to remove.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the boards to match the outline.\", \"描述\": \"This project used a miter saw with a laser site. However, these cuts could be made with a table, circular or handsaw. At this point, unless you are an expert woodworker, you will notice that the length of the sides doesn't match the drawing exactly. Don't worry, this isn't critical.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut strips of wood to 1 ¾” wide.\", \"描述\": \"You will need enough wood to match the perimeter of the coffin.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Start with the bottom side.\", \"描述\": \"Set the miter saw to an angle of 40.8 degrees (90 – 49.2). Cut one chamber. Reverse the work piece and cut the same chamfer on the other side. Cut it long and then make a few extra cuts until you match the bottom length.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Without touching the angle on the saw, cut two matching pieces for the long sides.\", \"描述\": \"Cut the 40.8 degree angle on one side – leave the work piece long since you will be cutting a different angle on the other end. Do a fit check at this point. The bottom side and long side should mate nicely when positioned on the bottom work piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Cut the top side using the same process as above.\", \"描述\": \"Angle should be 36.8 degrees. Again, match the side length to the bottom length.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Without touching the angle on the saw, cut two matching pieces for the short sides.\", \"描述\": \"Cut the 36.8 degree angle on one side – leave the work piece long since you will be cutting a different angle on the other end. Again, do a fit check.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Set the saw to 12.5 degrees and cut the remaining angles for the long and short sides.\", \"描述\": \"For reference, marked a number on the bottom and the matching side since each length could be slightly different.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Do a dry fit of the pieces to make sure everything will go together cleanly.\", \"描述\": \"If not, adjust as needed. Attach the sides to the bottom and to the other sides. Use glue and clamps. Wood filler could be used at this point.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Sand wood and stain or paint as desired.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Final Product will be made as desired.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,432 |
How to Build a Miniature Faux Log Cabin
|
1. Steps
1-1. Gather materials for your project.
There are some unique methods involved in the project, so be prepared to do a little hunting for them. Here is a short list of special materials you will need:
Limbs to split to create the faux logs.
Lumber for building the frame and other components.
1-2. Make a sketch of your project to determine the size and shape of your own model.
The one in the illustrations is 10 inches (25cm) wide, 12 inches (30cm) long, and 12 inches (30cm) high to its peak.
1-3. Build a box from 1x6 foot (30cm x 180cm) softwood lumber to form the walls of your cabin.
Cedar or white pine are good materials for this step since they are easy to work with and will make fastening the veneer logs easier.
1-4. Saw the limbs along their length.
Cut off the bark and a thin slab off the side of each limb. A table saw makes this easier, but if you clamp the limb or fasten it so it won't move, this step can be done with a circular saw as well.
1-5. Cut enough strips to provide enough veneer to cover the whole cabin, excluding waste (which will be considerable).
For the project in the photos, about 30 feet (9.1 meters) of bark slabs roughly 1/4 inch (6.35mm) thick were used.
1-6. Start at the bottom on either side, and miter the ends of one of the bark slabs.
This is to ensure that the short length of the 45 degree angles are flush with the ends of the frame (box).
1-7. Work up the first side until the whole side is covered with the slabs.
You can use staples, screws, or brads to fasten the slabs. Ensure that the fasteners don't penetrate though the inside of the box or they will need to be trimmed flush or sanded off for safety.
1-8. Start the adjoining side of the box with the slabs.
Match the mitered ends of the logs so they fit together closely. You will need to choose slabs that are about the same width to make them fit well.
1-9. Continue running slabs up the side you are currently working on until it is completely covered.
Then continue around the box until it the whole thing is wrapped with the "logs".
1-10. Build "rafters" with thin strips of the softwood lumber.
Cut the angles so they fit together properly. You can calculate your roof pitch and use a rafter square to make accurate cuts if you like, or just fit them by trial and error until you have a pattern rafter, then use it to mark the number you need for your project.
1-11. Erect a "ridge beam" between the "gable ends" for the rafters to fasten to, then fasten each rafter in place, measuring the distances so they are equally spaced.
1-12. Saw thin strips of the softwood lumber to make "shingles".
Fasten them, starting from the eave and allowing the upper to overlap the lower, working up the roofline.
1-13. Cut the doors and windows you want in the walls, at locations you choose.
1-14. Trim any rough cuts or misfit joints with a sharp knife.
Alternatively, sand these details smooth.
1-15. Seal the logs and shingles with a polyurethane sealer or varnish so the bark doesn't peel when the wood dries.
It's now ready to use as a pet home, mailbox or a decorative item for your home or garden.
Tips
Trim smaller limbs as closely as possible from your faux logs before sawing them.
Select an easily worked wood like juniper, cedar, cypress, or other softwood if it's available in your location.
A pneumatic brad nailer and carpenter's wood glue will make assembly much easier.
Warnings
Use extreme care when sawing the faux logs, as they will not cut as easily as sized lumber.
If you use a pneumatic nailer, be careful how you hold the workpiece, as these can penetrate deeper than you expect.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:48",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Gather materials for your project.\\nThere are some unique methods involved in the project, so be prepared to do a little hunting for them. Here is a short list of special materials you will need:\\nLimbs to split to create the faux logs.\\nLumber for building the frame and other components.\\n1-2. Make a sketch of your project to determine the size and shape of your own model.\\nThe one in the illustrations is 10 inches (25cm) wide, 12 inches (30cm) long, and 12 inches (30cm) high to its peak.\\n1-3. Build a box from 1x6 foot (30cm x 180cm) softwood lumber to form the walls of your cabin.\\nCedar or white pine are good materials for this step since they are easy to work with and will make fastening the veneer logs easier.\\n1-4. Saw the limbs along their length.\\nCut off the bark and a thin slab off the side of each limb. A table saw makes this easier, but if you clamp the limb or fasten it so it won't move, this step can be done with a circular saw as well.\\n1-5. Cut enough strips to provide enough veneer to cover the whole cabin, excluding waste (which will be considerable).\\nFor the project in the photos, about 30 feet (9.1 meters) of bark slabs roughly 1/4 inch (6.35mm) thick were used.\\n1-6. Start at the bottom on either side, and miter the ends of one of the bark slabs.\\nThis is to ensure that the short length of the 45 degree angles are flush with the ends of the frame (box).\\n1-7. Work up the first side until the whole side is covered with the slabs.\\nYou can use staples, screws, or brads to fasten the slabs. Ensure that the fasteners don't penetrate though the inside of the box or they will need to be trimmed flush or sanded off for safety.\\n1-8. Start the adjoining side of the box with the slabs.\\nMatch the mitered ends of the logs so they fit together closely. You will need to choose slabs that are about the same width to make them fit well.\\n1-9. Continue running slabs up the side you are currently working on until it is completely covered.\\nThen continue around the box until it the whole thing is wrapped with the \\\"logs\\\".\\n1-10. Build \\\"rafters\\\" with thin strips of the softwood lumber.\\nCut the angles so they fit together properly. You can calculate your roof pitch and use a rafter square to make accurate cuts if you like, or just fit them by trial and error until you have a pattern rafter, then use it to mark the number you need for your project.\\n1-11. Erect a \\\"ridge beam\\\" between the \\\"gable ends\\\" for the rafters to fasten to, then fasten each rafter in place, measuring the distances so they are equally spaced.\\n\\n1-12. Saw thin strips of the softwood lumber to make \\\"shingles\\\".\\nFasten them, starting from the eave and allowing the upper to overlap the lower, working up the roofline.\\n1-13. Cut the doors and windows you want in the walls, at locations you choose.\\n\\n1-14. Trim any rough cuts or misfit joints with a sharp knife.\\nAlternatively, sand these details smooth.\\n1-15. Seal the logs and shingles with a polyurethane sealer or varnish so the bark doesn't peel when the wood dries.\\nIt's now ready to use as a pet home, mailbox or a decorative item for your home or garden.\\nTips\\nTrim smaller limbs as closely as possible from your faux logs before sawing them.\\nSelect an easily worked wood like juniper, cedar, cypress, or other softwood if it's available in your location.\\nA pneumatic brad nailer and carpenter's wood glue will make assembly much easier.\\nWarnings\\nUse extreme care when sawing the faux logs, as they will not cut as easily as sized lumber.\\nIf you use a pneumatic nailer, be careful how you hold the workpiece, as these can penetrate deeper than you expect.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"With some woodworking tools and a little imagination, you can create a faux log cabin for a guinea pig house or just for fun. Here are some instructions to help you build this simple project.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather materials for your project.\", \"描述\": \"There are some unique methods involved in the project, so be prepared to do a little hunting for them. Here is a short list of special materials you will need:\\nLimbs to split to create the faux logs.\\nLumber for building the frame and other components.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a sketch of your project to determine the size and shape of your own model.\", \"描述\": \"The one in the illustrations is 10 inches (25cm) wide, 12 inches (30cm) long, and 12 inches (30cm) high to its peak.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a box from 1x6 foot (30cm x 180cm) softwood lumber to form the walls of your cabin.\", \"描述\": \"Cedar or white pine are good materials for this step since they are easy to work with and will make fastening the veneer logs easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Saw the limbs along their length.\", \"描述\": \"Cut off the bark and a thin slab off the side of each limb. A table saw makes this easier, but if you clamp the limb or fasten it so it won't move, this step can be done with a circular saw as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut enough strips to provide enough veneer to cover the whole cabin, excluding waste (which will be considerable).\", \"描述\": \"For the project in the photos, about 30 feet (9.1 meters) of bark slabs roughly 1/4 inch (6.35mm) thick were used.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Start at the bottom on either side, and miter the ends of one of the bark slabs.\", \"描述\": \"This is to ensure that the short length of the 45 degree angles are flush with the ends of the frame (box).\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Work up the first side until the whole side is covered with the slabs.\", \"描述\": \"You can use staples, screws, or brads to fasten the slabs. Ensure that the fasteners don't penetrate though the inside of the box or they will need to be trimmed flush or sanded off for safety.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Start the adjoining side of the box with the slabs.\", \"描述\": \"Match the mitered ends of the logs so they fit together closely. You will need to choose slabs that are about the same width to make them fit well.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Continue running slabs up the side you are currently working on until it is completely covered.\", \"描述\": \"Then continue around the box until it the whole thing is wrapped with the \\\"logs\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Build \\\"rafters\\\" with thin strips of the softwood lumber.\", \"描述\": \"Cut the angles so they fit together properly. You can calculate your roof pitch and use a rafter square to make accurate cuts if you like, or just fit them by trial and error until you have a pattern rafter, then use it to mark the number you need for your project.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Erect a \\\"ridge beam\\\" between the \\\"gable ends\\\" for the rafters to fasten to, then fasten each rafter in place, measuring the distances so they are equally spaced.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Saw thin strips of the softwood lumber to make \\\"shingles\\\".\", \"描述\": \"Fasten them, starting from the eave and allowing the upper to overlap the lower, working up the roofline.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Cut the doors and windows you want in the walls, at locations you choose.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Trim any rough cuts or misfit joints with a sharp knife.\", \"描述\": \"Alternatively, sand these details smooth.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Seal the logs and shingles with a polyurethane sealer or varnish so the bark doesn't peel when the wood dries.\", \"描述\": \"It's now ready to use as a pet home, mailbox or a decorative item for your home or garden.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Trim smaller limbs as closely as possible from your faux logs before sawing them.\\n\", \"Select an easily worked wood like juniper, cedar, cypress, or other softwood if it's available in your location.\\n\", \"A pneumatic brad nailer and carpenter's wood glue will make assembly much easier.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Use extreme care when sawing the faux logs, as they will not cut as easily as sized lumber.\\n\", \"If you use a pneumatic nailer, be careful how you hold the workpiece, as these can penetrate deeper than you expect.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,433 |
How to Build a Model
|
1. Inspecting and Painting the Parts
1-1. Read through the instructions.
Chances are, you'll see a bunch of boxes, like in a comic strip, with illustrations inside them. Each of these boxes refers to a part that you have to build first, using smaller pieces. Once you assemble all of the parts, you can put them together to complete the model.
Take note of the numbers next to the illustrations. These numbers will appear on the plastic frame that the pieces are attached to.
It would be a good idea to check your kit and make sure that all of the pieces are present. If you're missing a part, return the model and get a new one.
Pay attention to the painting process. In most cases, you'll have to paint the model first, but sometimes, you may have to save it for last.
1-2. Clean the parts with soapy water while they're still attached to the frame.
Fill a plastic tub with warm water, then stir in a pump of dish soap. Dunk the frames into the water, then lift them out. Rinse them with fresh water, then set them aside to dry.
Alternatively, pat the parts dry with a lint-free cloth.
This step is important because it will remove any dirt or oils that may prevent the paint from sticking.
If you already assembled your model, you can wipe it down with a damp cloth instead.
1-3. Choose your lightest color, then stir the paint for 1 minute.
Decide what colors you want to paint your model, then buy the paints from the modeling section of a craft store. Choose the lightest color, open it, and stir it with a toothpick or skewer for 1 minute.
Use actual model paint. It comes in tiny bottles.
1-4. Apply thin coats of paint using overlapping strokes.
Make all of the strokes go in the same direction. Apply a single, thin coat of paint dry. Don't worry if you can still see the plastic under it.
For best results, use small, natural hair paintbrushes in sizes 0, 2, and 4.
Consider practicing on a spare piece of plastic. The frame that the parts were attached to is a great choice.
Don't apply thick coats of paint, and don't go over areas that are still wet.
1-5. Let the first coat dry, then apply more thin coats.
How many coats you end up doing depends on how light the paint color is. Lighter paints need more coats than darker ones. Once you have applied all of the lighter colors, you can move onto the darker ones.
If you have metallic paint, use a separate brush, even if you cleaned the brush well.
1-6. Let the paint dry for 1 day.
This is especially important if you are painting parts before assembling them; otherwise, the paint might peel. It would be a good idea to check the paints themselves for more specific drying times.
2. Trimming and Assembling the Parts
2-1. Find the pieces for the first part that you have to build.
Open up your instructions, and find the first box with the first part. Note the numbers on the illustration, then find the pieces on the frame with the same numbers.
Your model kit may have multiple frames.
2-2. Cut the pieces off with clippers or a craft blade.
Hold the frame in your hand, and snip the required pieces off with clippers. Alternatively, set the frame down on a cutting mat, and cut them off with a No. 11 craft or hobby blade.
Don't cut right next to the piece, or you may end up getting a hole in the piece. Don't break the pieces off either.
Only cut off the pieces for the part that you are building. Don't cut the other pieces off just yet.
2-3. Smooth the spurs down with a craft blade or file.
When you cut the pieces off, you might end up with little stubs. Sand these down with a file or scrape them off at a 90-degree angle with a craft blade. Go slowly and carefully.
If you painted the parts, the sanding will remove some of that paint. Touch up the bare areas using a small brush.
If your part has seams on it, you can sand them down with a small file, or you can scrape them off with a craft blade.
2-4. Dry fit the parts, then adjust them if needed.
Take the first 2 pieces that you need to glue together, and place them together. If they fit, you can move on. If they don't fit, trim down anything that gets in the way with a file or a craft blade.
Model kits don't always fit together perfectly, especially the cheaper ones.
Don't worry about small gaps. You can fill these in with putty later.
2-5. Apply model glue to both parts.
An even better option would be to use plastic model cement. This is a solvent that actually melts the plastic and welds it together. Make sure that you only apply the solvent/glue to the parts that are touching.
You only need a thin layer of glue. If you use too much, the glue will leak between the parts.
If there are small gaps between the parts, fill them in with extra glue or cement. Don't worry about the bigger parts just yet.
2-6. Press the parts together and hold them for 30 seconds.
This should be enough for most parts to stick. If your glue requires you to hold them together for longer than that, it might be a better idea to hold the parts together with masking tape, wooden clothespins, or rubber bands.
2-7. Let the piece dry completely.
How long this takes depends on the type of glue that you are using. Most glues will have at least 2 drying times: a handling time and a curing time. The handling time is usually 15 to 30 minutes, while the curing time is typically several hours.
Refer to the handling time. This means that you can handle the part without it coming apart.
2-8. Cut and assemble more parts.
Once you have finished building your first part, it's time to work on the other parts. To save time, cut and sand new parts while the previous set is drying.
If you want to, you can set the completed parts on top of their respective illustrations.
3. Finishing the Model
3-1. Fill in the gaps or sand off the excess glue.
Remove any tape, clothespins, or rubber bands first. Sand excess glue off with a file or a craft blade. Fill in any remaining gaps with modeling or epoxy putty. Use a mini metal spatula to smooth the putty down.
Wait until the putty cures before moving on. If the putty still is not smooth, you can sand it down with a file.
If you painted your model previously, you will need to paint over the putty so that it blends in.
3-2. Assemble the parts to complete your model.
Take out the instructions that came with your kit. Read through the instructions once more, then glue the individual parts together to build the model. Remember to apply the glue or cement to both parts before pressing them together.
You may have to do this in several stages by completing smaller parts first, then assembling them into larger parts.
3-3. Wait for the glue to dry and cure.
How long this takes depends on the product that you are using, so read the instructions label carefully. Most model glues and cements will have 2 drying times: a handling time and a curing time. In this case, you should refer to the curing time.
If you handle your model before the glue or cement is done curing, the model may fall apart.
3-4. Paint the model, if needed, or make any touch-ups.
If you didn't paint your model earlier, now is the time to do so. If you already painted your model, inspect it carefully and note any areas with chipped or scratched paint. Fill these areas in using a small brush and matching paint.
Allow the paint to dry completely before moving on.
3-5. Apply any decals, if needed.
How you do this depends on the brand that you are using, so read the instructions carefully. In most cases, you'll need to dip the decal in water, then set it aside for 20 seconds. After that, you'll slide the decal off with tweezers, and place it onto the model.
Trim the decals down with scissors before you begin. This will make them easier to work with and reduce seams and borders.
Tips
Keep your hands clean while you are working. The oils from your skin may prevent the paint and glue from adhering properly.[17]
X
Research source
For an even nicer finish, paint the model with a primer first. This will help the paint stick better too.[18]
X
Research source
Select a model based on your skill level. They are typically numbered 1 through 5, with 1 being the easiest.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:49",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Inspecting and Painting the Parts\\n1-1. Read through the instructions.\\nChances are, you'll see a bunch of boxes, like in a comic strip, with illustrations inside them. Each of these boxes refers to a part that you have to build first, using smaller pieces. Once you assemble all of the parts, you can put them together to complete the model.\\nTake note of the numbers next to the illustrations. These numbers will appear on the plastic frame that the pieces are attached to.\\nIt would be a good idea to check your kit and make sure that all of the pieces are present. If you're missing a part, return the model and get a new one.\\nPay attention to the painting process. In most cases, you'll have to paint the model first, but sometimes, you may have to save it for last.\\n1-2. Clean the parts with soapy water while they're still attached to the frame.\\nFill a plastic tub with warm water, then stir in a pump of dish soap. Dunk the frames into the water, then lift them out. Rinse them with fresh water, then set them aside to dry.\\nAlternatively, pat the parts dry with a lint-free cloth.\\nThis step is important because it will remove any dirt or oils that may prevent the paint from sticking.\\nIf you already assembled your model, you can wipe it down with a damp cloth instead.\\n1-3. Choose your lightest color, then stir the paint for 1 minute.\\nDecide what colors you want to paint your model, then buy the paints from the modeling section of a craft store. Choose the lightest color, open it, and stir it with a toothpick or skewer for 1 minute.\\nUse actual model paint. It comes in tiny bottles.\\n1-4. Apply thin coats of paint using overlapping strokes.\\nMake all of the strokes go in the same direction. Apply a single, thin coat of paint dry. Don't worry if you can still see the plastic under it.\\nFor best results, use small, natural hair paintbrushes in sizes 0, 2, and 4.\\nConsider practicing on a spare piece of plastic. The frame that the parts were attached to is a great choice.\\nDon't apply thick coats of paint, and don't go over areas that are still wet.\\n1-5. Let the first coat dry, then apply more thin coats.\\nHow many coats you end up doing depends on how light the paint color is. Lighter paints need more coats than darker ones. Once you have applied all of the lighter colors, you can move onto the darker ones.\\nIf you have metallic paint, use a separate brush, even if you cleaned the brush well.\\n1-6. Let the paint dry for 1 day.\\nThis is especially important if you are painting parts before assembling them; otherwise, the paint might peel. It would be a good idea to check the paints themselves for more specific drying times.\\n2. Trimming and Assembling the Parts\\n2-1. Find the pieces for the first part that you have to build.\\nOpen up your instructions, and find the first box with the first part. Note the numbers on the illustration, then find the pieces on the frame with the same numbers.\\nYour model kit may have multiple frames.\\n2-2. Cut the pieces off with clippers or a craft blade.\\nHold the frame in your hand, and snip the required pieces off with clippers. Alternatively, set the frame down on a cutting mat, and cut them off with a No. 11 craft or hobby blade.\\nDon't cut right next to the piece, or you may end up getting a hole in the piece. Don't break the pieces off either.\\nOnly cut off the pieces for the part that you are building. Don't cut the other pieces off just yet.\\n2-3. Smooth the spurs down with a craft blade or file.\\nWhen you cut the pieces off, you might end up with little stubs. Sand these down with a file or scrape them off at a 90-degree angle with a craft blade. Go slowly and carefully.\\nIf you painted the parts, the sanding will remove some of that paint. Touch up the bare areas using a small brush.\\nIf your part has seams on it, you can sand them down with a small file, or you can scrape them off with a craft blade.\\n2-4. Dry fit the parts, then adjust them if needed.\\nTake the first 2 pieces that you need to glue together, and place them together. If they fit, you can move on. If they don't fit, trim down anything that gets in the way with a file or a craft blade.\\nModel kits don't always fit together perfectly, especially the cheaper ones.\\nDon't worry about small gaps. You can fill these in with putty later.\\n2-5. Apply model glue to both parts.\\nAn even better option would be to use plastic model cement. This is a solvent that actually melts the plastic and welds it together. Make sure that you only apply the solvent/glue to the parts that are touching.\\nYou only need a thin layer of glue. If you use too much, the glue will leak between the parts.\\nIf there are small gaps between the parts, fill them in with extra glue or cement. Don't worry about the bigger parts just yet.\\n2-6. Press the parts together and hold them for 30 seconds.\\nThis should be enough for most parts to stick. If your glue requires you to hold them together for longer than that, it might be a better idea to hold the parts together with masking tape, wooden clothespins, or rubber bands.\\n2-7. Let the piece dry completely.\\nHow long this takes depends on the type of glue that you are using. Most glues will have at least 2 drying times: a handling time and a curing time. The handling time is usually 15 to 30 minutes, while the curing time is typically several hours.\\nRefer to the handling time. This means that you can handle the part without it coming apart.\\n2-8. Cut and assemble more parts.\\nOnce you have finished building your first part, it's time to work on the other parts. To save time, cut and sand new parts while the previous set is drying.\\nIf you want to, you can set the completed parts on top of their respective illustrations.\\n3. Finishing the Model\\n3-1. Fill in the gaps or sand off the excess glue.\\nRemove any tape, clothespins, or rubber bands first. Sand excess glue off with a file or a craft blade. Fill in any remaining gaps with modeling or epoxy putty. Use a mini metal spatula to smooth the putty down.\\nWait until the putty cures before moving on. If the putty still is not smooth, you can sand it down with a file.\\nIf you painted your model previously, you will need to paint over the putty so that it blends in.\\n3-2. Assemble the parts to complete your model.\\nTake out the instructions that came with your kit. Read through the instructions once more, then glue the individual parts together to build the model. Remember to apply the glue or cement to both parts before pressing them together.\\nYou may have to do this in several stages by completing smaller parts first, then assembling them into larger parts.\\n3-3. Wait for the glue to dry and cure.\\nHow long this takes depends on the product that you are using, so read the instructions label carefully. Most model glues and cements will have 2 drying times: a handling time and a curing time. In this case, you should refer to the curing time.\\nIf you handle your model before the glue or cement is done curing, the model may fall apart.\\n3-4. Paint the model, if needed, or make any touch-ups.\\nIf you didn't paint your model earlier, now is the time to do so. If you already painted your model, inspect it carefully and note any areas with chipped or scratched paint. Fill these areas in using a small brush and matching paint.\\nAllow the paint to dry completely before moving on.\\n3-5. Apply any decals, if needed.\\nHow you do this depends on the brand that you are using, so read the instructions carefully. In most cases, you'll need to dip the decal in water, then set it aside for 20 seconds. After that, you'll slide the decal off with tweezers, and place it onto the model.\\nTrim the decals down with scissors before you begin. This will make them easier to work with and reduce seams and borders.\\nTips\\nKeep your hands clean while you are working. The oils from your skin may prevent the paint and glue from adhering properly.[17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nFor an even nicer finish, paint the model with a primer first. This will help the paint stick better too.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nSelect a model based on your skill level. They are typically numbered 1 through 5, with 1 being the easiest.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building models is a fun hobby that requires lots of time and patience. It is a rewarding experience, with a cool model to show off at the end. There is a trick to building models correctly, however. The included instructions can only teach you so much, but with more guidance and additional information, you can create a truly impressive model!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Inspecting and Painting the Parts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Read through the instructions.\", \"描述\": \"Chances are, you'll see a bunch of boxes, like in a comic strip, with illustrations inside them. Each of these boxes refers to a part that you have to build first, using smaller pieces. Once you assemble all of the parts, you can put them together to complete the model.\\nTake note of the numbers next to the illustrations. These numbers will appear on the plastic frame that the pieces are attached to.\\nIt would be a good idea to check your kit and make sure that all of the pieces are present. If you're missing a part, return the model and get a new one.\\nPay attention to the painting process. In most cases, you'll have to paint the model first, but sometimes, you may have to save it for last.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Clean the parts with soapy water while they're still attached to the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Fill a plastic tub with warm water, then stir in a pump of dish soap. Dunk the frames into the water, then lift them out. Rinse them with fresh water, then set them aside to dry.\\nAlternatively, pat the parts dry with a lint-free cloth.\\nThis step is important because it will remove any dirt or oils that may prevent the paint from sticking.\\nIf you already assembled your model, you can wipe it down with a damp cloth instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose your lightest color, then stir the paint for 1 minute.\", \"描述\": \"Decide what colors you want to paint your model, then buy the paints from the modeling section of a craft store. Choose the lightest color, open it, and stir it with a toothpick or skewer for 1 minute.\\nUse actual model paint. It comes in tiny bottles.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Apply thin coats of paint using overlapping strokes.\", \"描述\": \"Make all of the strokes go in the same direction. Apply a single, thin coat of paint dry. Don't worry if you can still see the plastic under it.\\nFor best results, use small, natural hair paintbrushes in sizes 0, 2, and 4.\\nConsider practicing on a spare piece of plastic. The frame that the parts were attached to is a great choice.\\nDon't apply thick coats of paint, and don't go over areas that are still wet.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Let the first coat dry, then apply more thin coats.\", \"描述\": \"How many coats you end up doing depends on how light the paint color is. Lighter paints need more coats than darker ones. Once you have applied all of the lighter colors, you can move onto the darker ones.\\nIf you have metallic paint, use a separate brush, even if you cleaned the brush well.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Let the paint dry for 1 day.\", \"描述\": \"This is especially important if you are painting parts before assembling them; otherwise, the paint might peel. It would be a good idea to check the paints themselves for more specific drying times.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Trimming and Assembling the Parts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find the pieces for the first part that you have to build.\", \"描述\": \"Open up your instructions, and find the first box with the first part. Note the numbers on the illustration, then find the pieces on the frame with the same numbers.\\nYour model kit may have multiple frames.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the pieces off with clippers or a craft blade.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the frame in your hand, and snip the required pieces off with clippers. Alternatively, set the frame down on a cutting mat, and cut them off with a No. 11 craft or hobby blade.\\nDon't cut right next to the piece, or you may end up getting a hole in the piece. Don't break the pieces off either.\\nOnly cut off the pieces for the part that you are building. Don't cut the other pieces off just yet.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Smooth the spurs down with a craft blade or file.\", \"描述\": \"When you cut the pieces off, you might end up with little stubs. Sand these down with a file or scrape them off at a 90-degree angle with a craft blade. Go slowly and carefully.\\nIf you painted the parts, the sanding will remove some of that paint. Touch up the bare areas using a small brush.\\nIf your part has seams on it, you can sand them down with a small file, or you can scrape them off with a craft blade.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dry fit the parts, then adjust them if needed.\", \"描述\": \"Take the first 2 pieces that you need to glue together, and place them together. If they fit, you can move on. If they don't fit, trim down anything that gets in the way with a file or a craft blade.\\nModel kits don't always fit together perfectly, especially the cheaper ones.\\nDon't worry about small gaps. You can fill these in with putty later.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Apply model glue to both parts.\", \"描述\": \"An even better option would be to use plastic model cement. This is a solvent that actually melts the plastic and welds it together. Make sure that you only apply the solvent/glue to the parts that are touching.\\nYou only need a thin layer of glue. If you use too much, the glue will leak between the parts.\\nIf there are small gaps between the parts, fill them in with extra glue or cement. Don't worry about the bigger parts just yet.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Press the parts together and hold them for 30 seconds.\", \"描述\": \"This should be enough for most parts to stick. If your glue requires you to hold them together for longer than that, it might be a better idea to hold the parts together with masking tape, wooden clothespins, or rubber bands.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Let the piece dry completely.\", \"描述\": \"How long this takes depends on the type of glue that you are using. Most glues will have at least 2 drying times: a handling time and a curing time. The handling time is usually 15 to 30 minutes, while the curing time is typically several hours.\\nRefer to the handling time. This means that you can handle the part without it coming apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut and assemble more parts.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have finished building your first part, it's time to work on the other parts. To save time, cut and sand new parts while the previous set is drying.\\nIf you want to, you can set the completed parts on top of their respective illustrations.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Model\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fill in the gaps or sand off the excess glue.\", \"描述\": \"Remove any tape, clothespins, or rubber bands first. Sand excess glue off with a file or a craft blade. Fill in any remaining gaps with modeling or epoxy putty. Use a mini metal spatula to smooth the putty down.\\nWait until the putty cures before moving on. If the putty still is not smooth, you can sand it down with a file.\\nIf you painted your model previously, you will need to paint over the putty so that it blends in.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assemble the parts to complete your model.\", \"描述\": \"Take out the instructions that came with your kit. Read through the instructions once more, then glue the individual parts together to build the model. Remember to apply the glue or cement to both parts before pressing them together.\\nYou may have to do this in several stages by completing smaller parts first, then assembling them into larger parts.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wait for the glue to dry and cure.\", \"描述\": \"How long this takes depends on the product that you are using, so read the instructions label carefully. Most model glues and cements will have 2 drying times: a handling time and a curing time. In this case, you should refer to the curing time.\\nIf you handle your model before the glue or cement is done curing, the model may fall apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Paint the model, if needed, or make any touch-ups.\", \"描述\": \"If you didn't paint your model earlier, now is the time to do so. If you already painted your model, inspect it carefully and note any areas with chipped or scratched paint. Fill these areas in using a small brush and matching paint.\\nAllow the paint to dry completely before moving on.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Apply any decals, if needed.\", \"描述\": \"How you do this depends on the brand that you are using, so read the instructions carefully. In most cases, you'll need to dip the decal in water, then set it aside for 20 seconds. After that, you'll slide the decal off with tweezers, and place it onto the model.\\nTrim the decals down with scissors before you begin. This will make them easier to work with and reduce seams and borders.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Keep your hands clean while you are working. The oils from your skin may prevent the paint and glue from adhering properly.[17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"For an even nicer finish, paint the model with a primer first. This will help the paint stick better too.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Select a model based on your skill level. They are typically numbered 1 through 5, with 1 being the easiest.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,434 |
How to Build a Model Airport
|
1. Creating Your Basic Structure
1-1. Choose the scale you want for your airport.
Decide where you will keep your model when it’s finished and the space you have available. Compare the sizes for common model-building scales to find one that will fit the dimensions for the space you have. Look for modeling scales on hobbyist and model railroad enthusiast websites.
The most common scales for model airplane hobbyists are 1/48 (1¾” or 31.8 mm) and 1/72 (1” or 25mm).
1-2. Seek inspiration from real-world airports.
Study books that show plans and photos of airports around the world. Visit other models at airports and transportation museums. Check out Knuffingen Airport, which is a model based on Hamburg Airport. Some of its features include 15,000 figurines, 500 cars, 50 trains, 300 buildings and 40 planes.
Look at layouts for airports in the UK through NATS (http://www.nats-uk.ead-it.com/public/index.php%3Foption=com_content&task=blogcategory&id=6&Itemid=13.html) and in the US through Federal Aviation Administration (https://www.faa.gov/airports/runway_safety/diagrams/).
1-3. Sketch a design for your airport.
Plan where things like an air traffic control tower, terminal buildings, planes, shuttle buses, and people will go. Include parking lots, aprons, taxiways, and runways. Consider including an airplane fueling facility and hangars for airplane service, maintenance, and storage.
1-4. Build a base.
Choose cardboard, wood, or plastic for the base of your model. Cut it to size according to your scale and the design you’ve sketched for the airport. Make sure you have room for all of the structures, runways, parking, walkways, and taxiways.
1-5. Lightly pencil in your design on the base.
Use a ruler to make sure you can fit everything on the base according to your scale. Eliminate structures, runways, or other items if you don’t have enough space on the base you’ve chosen. Alternatively, cut a larger base to accommodate everything that you’ve planned to build.
After you’ve sketched your design on the base, place it on a table so you can start adding your structures.
2. Building Your Airport
2-1. Build your terminal buildings, hangars, and parking garages.
Use modeling kits in the scale you’ve chosen for your airport. You can also build these from scratch using stiff cardboard or balsa wood. Make at least one terminal and one hangar if you are creating a model from scratch. If you’re basing your model on a real-world airport, aim to make the same number of buildings that can be found at that airport.
Build simple, large gray buildings with double doors large enough to accommodate an airplane for your hangars.
Terminals can be simple, long structures with jetways on the side of the terminal facing the runways. Make two levels on the side facing the parking lot, with multiple doors for passengers.
Parking garages can match real-world parking garages with multiple levels of parking lots stacked in a building.
Position the terminals on your base according to where you have them in your design.
2-2. Paint large, rectangular aprons around the terminal buildings.
The aprons should be long rectangles adjacent to the jetway side of the terminal buildings. Make them wide enough to accommodate the planes you plan to park at the terminals. Paint at least one apron for each terminal. Use black or dark gray paint for the aprons. You can also cut out rectangles from poster board and glue these down to use as the aprons.
Aprons are the same as ramps.
2-3. Paint on taxiways leading from the aprons to the runways.
Make the taxiways look like wide roads leading from the apron to the runway. Use black paint for the basic taxiways. Add a solid yellow centerline. Paint on yellow arrows or chevrons that point to the runways.
Create one taxiway for each apron.
2-4. Paint the runways on the base in black paint.
Design the runway to look like a wide road with a solid white line down the middle. Runways lead from the taxiways to the point where the plane lands or departs. Mark the landing areas with eight white bars. Add white chevrons to indicate the direction of the runways. Planes take off near the chevrons.
Make at least one runway if you’re designing your own airport. If you’re basing your model on a real-world airport, make the same number of runways found at that airport.
Number the runways using the block, geometric font used for runway designators. You can see examples of this font at https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/civilaviation/regserv/cars/part3-standards-325-325-160.htm.
2-5. Build
Get some model airplane kits in the scale you chose for your model airport. Assemble the airplanes. Smooth them with sandpaper if needed. Next, paint them to match the types of airlines you’ve chosen for your airport. Add decals for authenticity. Put the airplanes on the aprons, taxiways, and runways.
3. Adding Details
3-1. Put down some patches of grass with ground foam.
Buy some ground foam at a hobby store. Paint the foam green and let it dry. Spread some white glue on your base where you want the grass. Crumble up some ground foam and spread the crumbles over the glue.
Put down the foam first, then spray it lightly with some white glue if you don’t want to crumble the foam.
If you will crumble the foam, also paint the board under the grassy sections green before adding the foam to make the grass more vibrant.
3-2. Add bushes with lichen.
Get some lichen from real trees or buy it at a hobby store. Glue some clumps of lichen around the grassy areas as bushes. Break some toothpicks in half to use as bases for bushes. Slide some lichen onto the toothpicks and glue the bottom of the toothpick to your base.
Cover the tops of small twigs covered in lichen and glue the twigs to the base for trees.
3-3. Make signs with toothpicks and paper.
Decide the types of signs you’d like to have. Cut out small pieces of white paper in the shape of the signs you want. Color in the paper with markers, colored pencils, or paint. Use a permanent marker to write the text of the signs. Glue the paper to toothpicks and glue the bottom of the toothpicks to the base where you want the signs.
Make stop signs, parking signs, and signs indicating the location of aprons and jetways on the runways.
Add names or other designators to your buildings. Write them freehand or use a stencil with paint or permanent marker.
3-4. Include people and other finishing touches.
Buy figurines from craft stores, model stores, or stores that sell miniatures. Try to get them in the scale you chose for your airport. Look for figurines dressed as pilots and flight attendants, people in coveralls for working on the aprons and around the hangars. Don’t forget families and other figurines to be the passengers and public. Glue the figurines around the airport in appropriate places.
Find miniature cars, tankers, fire engines, shuttle buses, and other vehicles that belong at the airport. Get these in your scale and place them around the airport.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:49",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating Your Basic Structure\\n1-1. Choose the scale you want for your airport.\\nDecide where you will keep your model when it’s finished and the space you have available. Compare the sizes for common model-building scales to find one that will fit the dimensions for the space you have. Look for modeling scales on hobbyist and model railroad enthusiast websites.\\nThe most common scales for model airplane hobbyists are 1/48 (1¾” or 31.8 mm) and 1/72 (1” or 25mm).\\n1-2. Seek inspiration from real-world airports.\\nStudy books that show plans and photos of airports around the world. Visit other models at airports and transportation museums. Check out Knuffingen Airport, which is a model based on Hamburg Airport. Some of its features include 15,000 figurines, 500 cars, 50 trains, 300 buildings and 40 planes.\\nLook at layouts for airports in the UK through NATS (http://www.nats-uk.ead-it.com/public/index.php%3Foption=com_content&task=blogcategory&id=6&Itemid=13.html) and in the US through Federal Aviation Administration (https://www.faa.gov/airports/runway_safety/diagrams/).\\n1-3. Sketch a design for your airport.\\nPlan where things like an air traffic control tower, terminal buildings, planes, shuttle buses, and people will go. Include parking lots, aprons, taxiways, and runways. Consider including an airplane fueling facility and hangars for airplane service, maintenance, and storage.\\n1-4. Build a base.\\nChoose cardboard, wood, or plastic for the base of your model. Cut it to size according to your scale and the design you’ve sketched for the airport. Make sure you have room for all of the structures, runways, parking, walkways, and taxiways.\\n1-5. Lightly pencil in your design on the base.\\nUse a ruler to make sure you can fit everything on the base according to your scale. Eliminate structures, runways, or other items if you don’t have enough space on the base you’ve chosen. Alternatively, cut a larger base to accommodate everything that you’ve planned to build.\\nAfter you’ve sketched your design on the base, place it on a table so you can start adding your structures.\\n2. Building Your Airport\\n2-1. Build your terminal buildings, hangars, and parking garages.\\nUse modeling kits in the scale you’ve chosen for your airport. You can also build these from scratch using stiff cardboard or balsa wood. Make at least one terminal and one hangar if you are creating a model from scratch. If you’re basing your model on a real-world airport, aim to make the same number of buildings that can be found at that airport.\\nBuild simple, large gray buildings with double doors large enough to accommodate an airplane for your hangars.\\nTerminals can be simple, long structures with jetways on the side of the terminal facing the runways. Make two levels on the side facing the parking lot, with multiple doors for passengers.\\nParking garages can match real-world parking garages with multiple levels of parking lots stacked in a building.\\nPosition the terminals on your base according to where you have them in your design.\\n2-2. Paint large, rectangular aprons around the terminal buildings.\\nThe aprons should be long rectangles adjacent to the jetway side of the terminal buildings. Make them wide enough to accommodate the planes you plan to park at the terminals. Paint at least one apron for each terminal. Use black or dark gray paint for the aprons. You can also cut out rectangles from poster board and glue these down to use as the aprons.\\nAprons are the same as ramps.\\n2-3. Paint on taxiways leading from the aprons to the runways.\\nMake the taxiways look like wide roads leading from the apron to the runway. Use black paint for the basic taxiways. Add a solid yellow centerline. Paint on yellow arrows or chevrons that point to the runways.\\nCreate one taxiway for each apron.\\n2-4. Paint the runways on the base in black paint.\\nDesign the runway to look like a wide road with a solid white line down the middle. Runways lead from the taxiways to the point where the plane lands or departs. Mark the landing areas with eight white bars. Add white chevrons to indicate the direction of the runways. Planes take off near the chevrons.\\nMake at least one runway if you’re designing your own airport. If you’re basing your model on a real-world airport, make the same number of runways found at that airport.\\nNumber the runways using the block, geometric font used for runway designators. You can see examples of this font at https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/civilaviation/regserv/cars/part3-standards-325-325-160.htm.\\n2-5. Build\\nGet some model airplane kits in the scale you chose for your model airport. Assemble the airplanes. Smooth them with sandpaper if needed. Next, paint them to match the types of airlines you’ve chosen for your airport. Add decals for authenticity. Put the airplanes on the aprons, taxiways, and runways.\\n3. Adding Details\\n3-1. Put down some patches of grass with ground foam.\\nBuy some ground foam at a hobby store. Paint the foam green and let it dry. Spread some white glue on your base where you want the grass. Crumble up some ground foam and spread the crumbles over the glue.\\nPut down the foam first, then spray it lightly with some white glue if you don’t want to crumble the foam.\\nIf you will crumble the foam, also paint the board under the grassy sections green before adding the foam to make the grass more vibrant.\\n3-2. Add bushes with lichen.\\nGet some lichen from real trees or buy it at a hobby store. Glue some clumps of lichen around the grassy areas as bushes. Break some toothpicks in half to use as bases for bushes. Slide some lichen onto the toothpicks and glue the bottom of the toothpick to your base.\\nCover the tops of small twigs covered in lichen and glue the twigs to the base for trees.\\n3-3. Make signs with toothpicks and paper.\\nDecide the types of signs you’d like to have. Cut out small pieces of white paper in the shape of the signs you want. Color in the paper with markers, colored pencils, or paint. Use a permanent marker to write the text of the signs. Glue the paper to toothpicks and glue the bottom of the toothpicks to the base where you want the signs.\\nMake stop signs, parking signs, and signs indicating the location of aprons and jetways on the runways.\\nAdd names or other designators to your buildings. Write them freehand or use a stencil with paint or permanent marker.\\n3-4. Include people and other finishing touches.\\nBuy figurines from craft stores, model stores, or stores that sell miniatures. Try to get them in the scale you chose for your airport. Look for figurines dressed as pilots and flight attendants, people in coveralls for working on the aprons and around the hangars. Don’t forget families and other figurines to be the passengers and public. Glue the figurines around the airport in appropriate places.\\nFind miniature cars, tankers, fire engines, shuttle buses, and other vehicles that belong at the airport. Get these in your scale and place them around the airport.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a model airport is an exciting challenge for modelers. You can start with a general plan and add to the model over time with new elements and details. Begin by deciding on your basic structure, like what kind of airport you want to create and the scale you will use. Build a base, then add your runways, aprons, terminals, and other main structures. Finish it with details like signs, foliage, and figurines.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating Your Basic Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the scale you want for your airport.\", \"描述\": \"Decide where you will keep your model when it’s finished and the space you have available. Compare the sizes for common model-building scales to find one that will fit the dimensions for the space you have. Look for modeling scales on hobbyist and model railroad enthusiast websites.\\nThe most common scales for model airplane hobbyists are 1/48 (1¾” or 31.8 mm) and 1/72 (1” or 25mm).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Seek inspiration from real-world airports.\", \"描述\": \"Study books that show plans and photos of airports around the world. Visit other models at airports and transportation museums. Check out Knuffingen Airport, which is a model based on Hamburg Airport. Some of its features include 15,000 figurines, 500 cars, 50 trains, 300 buildings and 40 planes.\\nLook at layouts for airports in the UK through NATS (http://www.nats-uk.ead-it.com/public/index.php%3Foption=com_content&task=blogcategory&id=6&Itemid=13.html) and in the US through Federal Aviation Administration (https://www.faa.gov/airports/runway_safety/diagrams/).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sketch a design for your airport.\", \"描述\": \"Plan where things like an air traffic control tower, terminal buildings, planes, shuttle buses, and people will go. Include parking lots, aprons, taxiways, and runways. Consider including an airplane fueling facility and hangars for airplane service, maintenance, and storage.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build a base.\", \"描述\": \"Choose cardboard, wood, or plastic for the base of your model. Cut it to size according to your scale and the design you’ve sketched for the airport. Make sure you have room for all of the structures, runways, parking, walkways, and taxiways.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lightly pencil in your design on the base.\", \"描述\": \"Use a ruler to make sure you can fit everything on the base according to your scale. Eliminate structures, runways, or other items if you don’t have enough space on the base you’ve chosen. Alternatively, cut a larger base to accommodate everything that you’ve planned to build.\\nAfter you’ve sketched your design on the base, place it on a table so you can start adding your structures.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building Your Airport\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build your terminal buildings, hangars, and parking garages.\", \"描述\": \"Use modeling kits in the scale you’ve chosen for your airport. You can also build these from scratch using stiff cardboard or balsa wood. Make at least one terminal and one hangar if you are creating a model from scratch. If you’re basing your model on a real-world airport, aim to make the same number of buildings that can be found at that airport.\\nBuild simple, large gray buildings with double doors large enough to accommodate an airplane for your hangars.\\nTerminals can be simple, long structures with jetways on the side of the terminal facing the runways. Make two levels on the side facing the parking lot, with multiple doors for passengers.\\nParking garages can match real-world parking garages with multiple levels of parking lots stacked in a building.\\nPosition the terminals on your base according to where you have them in your design.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint large, rectangular aprons around the terminal buildings.\", \"描述\": \"The aprons should be long rectangles adjacent to the jetway side of the terminal buildings. Make them wide enough to accommodate the planes you plan to park at the terminals. Paint at least one apron for each terminal. Use black or dark gray paint for the aprons. You can also cut out rectangles from poster board and glue these down to use as the aprons.\\nAprons are the same as ramps.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint on taxiways leading from the aprons to the runways.\", \"描述\": \"Make the taxiways look like wide roads leading from the apron to the runway. Use black paint for the basic taxiways. Add a solid yellow centerline. Paint on yellow arrows or chevrons that point to the runways.\\nCreate one taxiway for each apron.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Paint the runways on the base in black paint.\", \"描述\": \"Design the runway to look like a wide road with a solid white line down the middle. Runways lead from the taxiways to the point where the plane lands or departs. Mark the landing areas with eight white bars. Add white chevrons to indicate the direction of the runways. Planes take off near the chevrons.\\nMake at least one runway if you’re designing your own airport. If you’re basing your model on a real-world airport, make the same number of runways found at that airport.\\nNumber the runways using the block, geometric font used for runway designators. You can see examples of this font at https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/civilaviation/regserv/cars/part3-standards-325-325-160.htm.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build\", \"描述\": \"Get some model airplane kits in the scale you chose for your model airport. Assemble the airplanes. Smooth them with sandpaper if needed. Next, paint them to match the types of airlines you’ve chosen for your airport. Add decals for authenticity. Put the airplanes on the aprons, taxiways, and runways.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding Details\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put down some patches of grass with ground foam.\", \"描述\": \"Buy some ground foam at a hobby store. Paint the foam green and let it dry. Spread some white glue on your base where you want the grass. Crumble up some ground foam and spread the crumbles over the glue.\\nPut down the foam first, then spray it lightly with some white glue if you don’t want to crumble the foam.\\nIf you will crumble the foam, also paint the board under the grassy sections green before adding the foam to make the grass more vibrant.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add bushes with lichen.\", \"描述\": \"Get some lichen from real trees or buy it at a hobby store. Glue some clumps of lichen around the grassy areas as bushes. Break some toothpicks in half to use as bases for bushes. Slide some lichen onto the toothpicks and glue the bottom of the toothpick to your base.\\nCover the tops of small twigs covered in lichen and glue the twigs to the base for trees.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make signs with toothpicks and paper.\", \"描述\": \"Decide the types of signs you’d like to have. Cut out small pieces of white paper in the shape of the signs you want. Color in the paper with markers, colored pencils, or paint. Use a permanent marker to write the text of the signs. Glue the paper to toothpicks and glue the bottom of the toothpicks to the base where you want the signs.\\nMake stop signs, parking signs, and signs indicating the location of aprons and jetways on the runways.\\nAdd names or other designators to your buildings. Write them freehand or use a stencil with paint or permanent marker.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Include people and other finishing touches.\", \"描述\": \"Buy figurines from craft stores, model stores, or stores that sell miniatures. Try to get them in the scale you chose for your airport. Look for figurines dressed as pilots and flight attendants, people in coveralls for working on the aprons and around the hangars. Don’t forget families and other figurines to be the passengers and public. Glue the figurines around the airport in appropriate places.\\nFind miniature cars, tankers, fire engines, shuttle buses, and other vehicles that belong at the airport. Get these in your scale and place them around the airport.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,435 |
How to Build a Model Bridge out of Skewers
|
1. Designing the Bridge
1-1. Decide on what type of bridge you want to build.
Follow a common bridge design style, like a beam or truss design—or come up with your own.
A truss bridge uses horizontal and diagonal pieces to create sturdy structures for each side of the bridge. This is the most common and popular style of model bridge to build.
A beam bridge is a simple structure that uses a horizontal beam placed across an empty space, sometimes with supporting “legs” underneath it.
You might choose a design based on what you’ll use the bridge for. Does it need to hold weight? Does it need to span a certain length of space in a model display or other project? Note that wooden skewers are better suited to a design with straight lines rather than an arch design.
1-2. Sketch out your design on paper.
Use a pencil and paper to sketch out the design of your bridge, which will help you determine the scope of the project and how many skewers you will need. Or, design your bridge using a computer program or mobile app.
You may also find ready-made designs or templates for a model bridge online or in a simple engineering book.
Use graph paper to assist you in making easy measurements and drawing straight lines. If you don’t have graph paper, use a ruler to help create the lines.
Draw your bridge design to scale (meaning with the same lengths you will use for the actual skewers) so that you can easily lay your skewers across your design to prepare for assembly later. If using digital software, print out your design to do this if possible.
Try drawing or virtually designing your bridge design from a couple different angles to help you visualize each part of it. You can create a side view as well as an end view of the bridge.
1-3. Layout your skewers and cut them to size.
Place your wooden skewers out on top of your sketch to find the lengths you’ll need. Cut any of the skewers down to size using craft shears or a craft knife.
Note that you may have to use several skewers attached together for longer sections, or to add strength to any given piece. Plan to have a large quantity of skewers to be prepared.
If you don’t have access to craft shears or another tool that is sharp and durable enough to safely cut through the wooden skewers, you can use a pair of regular scissors to score a skewer where you want to cut it and then break it by hand along the score.
Be careful of the sharp ends of skewers, especially if they fly out when cut. Avert your eyes away from the skewers when cutting, or wear safety goggles.
1-4. Choose glue or string for assembly.
Decide if you’d like to use wood glue or string to connect the skewers for your bridge design.
If you use glue, make sure it is wood glue that will dry clear if you don’t want it to show. Apply glue to skewers in small dots to avoid excess glue oozing out when you press skewers together. Try using a q-tof or toothpick to help apply small amounts of glue.
If you use string, make sure you have enough to wrap around each joint where skewers connect in your design. Note that you may also want or need wood glue to increase strength or make it easier to hold skewers together before wrapping with string.
2. Assembling the Bridge
2-1. Build trusses first.
Lay out the skewers for one truss (the support “wall” on either side of the bridge) flat on a table or other sturdy surface. You will need at least two skewers for the top and bottom “cords,” which are the horizontal pieces, and at least four for the diagonal “braces” that connect top and bottom cords.
Form triangles with the brace pieces by placing them at alternating angles, with each point connecting to the top or bottom cord. The number and exact positioning you use will depend on your specific design.
For this and other parts of your bridge design, you may want to glue or tie several skewers together for each section to strengthen it. You can hold skewers together with binder clips to strengthen the bind if you are using glue to attach them.
Remember that you need to construct two trusses for your bridge. Once you’ve laid out the pieces for the first truss, do the same with another set of skewers for the other side of the bridge.
If you are building a simple beam bridge, you will not need trusses and can skip this step.
2-2. Glue or tie truss skewers together.
Use glue or string to attach each skewer you’ve laid out for one truss. Apply glue or string at every point where one skewer or bunch of skewers meets another.
Once you are done with all the pieces of one truss, glue or tie the pieces of the second truss. Leave the two trusses laying separate from each other and flat on the table for now.
If you’re using glue, you may want to let it dry overnight or for several hours after application, especially if you plan to have your bridge hold weight.
If you are building a simple beam bridge, you will not need trusses and can skip this step.
2-3. Construct the bridge deck.
Build the deck where one would walk or drive a vehicle on a full-size bridge. Lay out at least two horizontal pieces as deck beams that will connect the two trusses together at the bottom of either end.
It may help to add several deck beams that connect the two trusses to lend support. You can connect these at the same place where each brace attaches to the bottom cord. For now, simply lay them down between your two assembled trusses to prepare for assembly.
Once you have at least two deck beams in place, you can fill in between the beams entirely with skewers to make one even, flat surface. Or, you can later make a more solid deck out of a piece of cardboard, wood, or other flat material if you like.
If you’re using glue to connect pieces of the deck, allow it to dry for several hours or overnight, especially if you plan for the bridge to hold weight.
2-4. Assemble the trusses and deck.
Gently tape or temporarily fasten each assembled truss to an object with a flat, vertical side (like boxes or books) to help keep the trusses upright and perpendicular to the table. Then glue or tie your deck skewers to the trusses before removing the boxes or books.
For best results, wait till glue fully dries if you’re using it to connect your bridge structures. Then leave the completed structure to dry for several more hours or overnight.
If your bridge design includes top beams, connect them across the two top cords of your trusses once you have connected them to the deck. Your design does not need top beams, but they may help hold the structure together with more stability.
3. Using or Displaying the Bridge
3-1. Use your bridge to test weight capacity.
Try testing the weight that your bridge model will hold, either for fun or a competition. You can either place objects or weights directly on the bridge deck or suspended underneath it with a load bucket.
Make sure the two ends of your bridge are balanced across two stable surfaces to test its ability to hold weight.
If you want to use a load bucket to test weight, try attaching a film canister below your bridge with a piece of string and a paper clip. Then fill the canister with metal washers, coins, or other weights one by one until the bridge can no longer sustain the weight and breaks.
3-2. Make your bridge stable for use with small vehicles.
Send small battery cars, trains, or other model vehicles across your bridge deck as part of a larger course or just for fun on its own.
You may want to reinforce or make sure your bridge deck has a smooth, complete surface that your vehicle can drive up and over.
Secure the bridge to whatever surface or surfaces you want to have it on so that it stays put for use with your model vehicles.
3-3. Display your bridge in a model display.
Add your bridge to a larger model display or village in any way you wish.
Try painting your bridge to match other pieces of your display or make it more authentic. Use paint with a small paintbrush or spray on spray paint to easily add colour to your model.
Display figurines or model vehicles on the deck of your bridge by gluing them in place or simply setting them on the surface. You may want to design your bridge to fit the scale of other model structures or figurines ahead of time if you plan to display it this way.
Add other decorative elements to your bridge if you wish with string, metal ornaments, wood, or other items to make your bridge more realistic, colourful, or fitting with any theme you have for your display.
Tips
If you’re using the bridge to test its weight bearing capacity, be prepared for it to break when you test the weight. You may want to try several different designs to test which one bears weight the best.
Warnings
Skewers and the shears or scissors used to cut them are very sharp. Children should have assistance from a parent for this project.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:49",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing the Bridge\\n1-1. Decide on what type of bridge you want to build.\\nFollow a common bridge design style, like a beam or truss design—or come up with your own.\\nA truss bridge uses horizontal and diagonal pieces to create sturdy structures for each side of the bridge. This is the most common and popular style of model bridge to build.\\nA beam bridge is a simple structure that uses a horizontal beam placed across an empty space, sometimes with supporting “legs” underneath it.\\nYou might choose a design based on what you’ll use the bridge for. Does it need to hold weight? Does it need to span a certain length of space in a model display or other project? Note that wooden skewers are better suited to a design with straight lines rather than an arch design.\\n1-2. Sketch out your design on paper.\\nUse a pencil and paper to sketch out the design of your bridge, which will help you determine the scope of the project and how many skewers you will need. Or, design your bridge using a computer program or mobile app.\\nYou may also find ready-made designs or templates for a model bridge online or in a simple engineering book.\\nUse graph paper to assist you in making easy measurements and drawing straight lines. If you don’t have graph paper, use a ruler to help create the lines.\\nDraw your bridge design to scale (meaning with the same lengths you will use for the actual skewers) so that you can easily lay your skewers across your design to prepare for assembly later. If using digital software, print out your design to do this if possible.\\nTry drawing or virtually designing your bridge design from a couple different angles to help you visualize each part of it. You can create a side view as well as an end view of the bridge.\\n1-3. Layout your skewers and cut them to size.\\nPlace your wooden skewers out on top of your sketch to find the lengths you’ll need. Cut any of the skewers down to size using craft shears or a craft knife.\\nNote that you may have to use several skewers attached together for longer sections, or to add strength to any given piece. Plan to have a large quantity of skewers to be prepared.\\nIf you don’t have access to craft shears or another tool that is sharp and durable enough to safely cut through the wooden skewers, you can use a pair of regular scissors to score a skewer where you want to cut it and then break it by hand along the score.\\nBe careful of the sharp ends of skewers, especially if they fly out when cut. Avert your eyes away from the skewers when cutting, or wear safety goggles.\\n1-4. Choose glue or string for assembly.\\nDecide if you’d like to use wood glue or string to connect the skewers for your bridge design.\\nIf you use glue, make sure it is wood glue that will dry clear if you don’t want it to show. Apply glue to skewers in small dots to avoid excess glue oozing out when you press skewers together. Try using a q-tof or toothpick to help apply small amounts of glue.\\nIf you use string, make sure you have enough to wrap around each joint where skewers connect in your design. Note that you may also want or need wood glue to increase strength or make it easier to hold skewers together before wrapping with string.\\n2. Assembling the Bridge\\n2-1. Build trusses first.\\nLay out the skewers for one truss (the support “wall” on either side of the bridge) flat on a table or other sturdy surface. You will need at least two skewers for the top and bottom “cords,” which are the horizontal pieces, and at least four for the diagonal “braces” that connect top and bottom cords.\\nForm triangles with the brace pieces by placing them at alternating angles, with each point connecting to the top or bottom cord. The number and exact positioning you use will depend on your specific design.\\nFor this and other parts of your bridge design, you may want to glue or tie several skewers together for each section to strengthen it. You can hold skewers together with binder clips to strengthen the bind if you are using glue to attach them.\\nRemember that you need to construct two trusses for your bridge. Once you’ve laid out the pieces for the first truss, do the same with another set of skewers for the other side of the bridge.\\nIf you are building a simple beam bridge, you will not need trusses and can skip this step.\\n2-2. Glue or tie truss skewers together.\\nUse glue or string to attach each skewer you’ve laid out for one truss. Apply glue or string at every point where one skewer or bunch of skewers meets another.\\nOnce you are done with all the pieces of one truss, glue or tie the pieces of the second truss. Leave the two trusses laying separate from each other and flat on the table for now.\\nIf you’re using glue, you may want to let it dry overnight or for several hours after application, especially if you plan to have your bridge hold weight.\\nIf you are building a simple beam bridge, you will not need trusses and can skip this step.\\n2-3. Construct the bridge deck.\\nBuild the deck where one would walk or drive a vehicle on a full-size bridge. Lay out at least two horizontal pieces as deck beams that will connect the two trusses together at the bottom of either end.\\nIt may help to add several deck beams that connect the two trusses to lend support. You can connect these at the same place where each brace attaches to the bottom cord. For now, simply lay them down between your two assembled trusses to prepare for assembly.\\nOnce you have at least two deck beams in place, you can fill in between the beams entirely with skewers to make one even, flat surface. Or, you can later make a more solid deck out of a piece of cardboard, wood, or other flat material if you like.\\nIf you’re using glue to connect pieces of the deck, allow it to dry for several hours or overnight, especially if you plan for the bridge to hold weight.\\n2-4. Assemble the trusses and deck.\\nGently tape or temporarily fasten each assembled truss to an object with a flat, vertical side (like boxes or books) to help keep the trusses upright and perpendicular to the table. Then glue or tie your deck skewers to the trusses before removing the boxes or books.\\nFor best results, wait till glue fully dries if you’re using it to connect your bridge structures. Then leave the completed structure to dry for several more hours or overnight.\\nIf your bridge design includes top beams, connect them across the two top cords of your trusses once you have connected them to the deck. Your design does not need top beams, but they may help hold the structure together with more stability.\\n3. Using or Displaying the Bridge\\n3-1. Use your bridge to test weight capacity.\\nTry testing the weight that your bridge model will hold, either for fun or a competition. You can either place objects or weights directly on the bridge deck or suspended underneath it with a load bucket.\\nMake sure the two ends of your bridge are balanced across two stable surfaces to test its ability to hold weight.\\nIf you want to use a load bucket to test weight, try attaching a film canister below your bridge with a piece of string and a paper clip. Then fill the canister with metal washers, coins, or other weights one by one until the bridge can no longer sustain the weight and breaks.\\n3-2. Make your bridge stable for use with small vehicles.\\nSend small battery cars, trains, or other model vehicles across your bridge deck as part of a larger course or just for fun on its own.\\nYou may want to reinforce or make sure your bridge deck has a smooth, complete surface that your vehicle can drive up and over.\\nSecure the bridge to whatever surface or surfaces you want to have it on so that it stays put for use with your model vehicles.\\n3-3. Display your bridge in a model display.\\nAdd your bridge to a larger model display or village in any way you wish.\\nTry painting your bridge to match other pieces of your display or make it more authentic. Use paint with a small paintbrush or spray on spray paint to easily add colour to your model.\\nDisplay figurines or model vehicles on the deck of your bridge by gluing them in place or simply setting them on the surface. You may want to design your bridge to fit the scale of other model structures or figurines ahead of time if you plan to display it this way.\\nAdd other decorative elements to your bridge if you wish with string, metal ornaments, wood, or other items to make your bridge more realistic, colourful, or fitting with any theme you have for your display.\\nTips\\nIf you’re using the bridge to test its weight bearing capacity, be prepared for it to break when you test the weight. You may want to try several different designs to test which one bears weight the best.\\nWarnings\\nSkewers and the shears or scissors used to cut them are very sharp. Children should have assistance from a parent for this project.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you need to build a bridge for a school project or you simply want to learn how to create bridges on a small scale, wooden skewers are a great material to use to build a model bridge at home. Design your bridge on paper or a computer program, then use skewers and glue or string to construct the parts of the bridge and assemble them.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing the Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide on what type of bridge you want to build.\", \"描述\": \"Follow a common bridge design style, like a beam or truss design—or come up with your own.\\nA truss bridge uses horizontal and diagonal pieces to create sturdy structures for each side of the bridge. This is the most common and popular style of model bridge to build.\\nA beam bridge is a simple structure that uses a horizontal beam placed across an empty space, sometimes with supporting “legs” underneath it.\\nYou might choose a design based on what you’ll use the bridge for. Does it need to hold weight? Does it need to span a certain length of space in a model display or other project? Note that wooden skewers are better suited to a design with straight lines rather than an arch design.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sketch out your design on paper.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pencil and paper to sketch out the design of your bridge, which will help you determine the scope of the project and how many skewers you will need. Or, design your bridge using a computer program or mobile app.\\nYou may also find ready-made designs or templates for a model bridge online or in a simple engineering book.\\nUse graph paper to assist you in making easy measurements and drawing straight lines. If you don’t have graph paper, use a ruler to help create the lines.\\nDraw your bridge design to scale (meaning with the same lengths you will use for the actual skewers) so that you can easily lay your skewers across your design to prepare for assembly later. If using digital software, print out your design to do this if possible.\\nTry drawing or virtually designing your bridge design from a couple different angles to help you visualize each part of it. You can create a side view as well as an end view of the bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Layout your skewers and cut them to size.\", \"描述\": \"Place your wooden skewers out on top of your sketch to find the lengths you’ll need. Cut any of the skewers down to size using craft shears or a craft knife.\\nNote that you may have to use several skewers attached together for longer sections, or to add strength to any given piece. Plan to have a large quantity of skewers to be prepared.\\nIf you don’t have access to craft shears or another tool that is sharp and durable enough to safely cut through the wooden skewers, you can use a pair of regular scissors to score a skewer where you want to cut it and then break it by hand along the score.\\nBe careful of the sharp ends of skewers, especially if they fly out when cut. Avert your eyes away from the skewers when cutting, or wear safety goggles.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose glue or string for assembly.\", \"描述\": \"Decide if you’d like to use wood glue or string to connect the skewers for your bridge design.\\nIf you use glue, make sure it is wood glue that will dry clear if you don’t want it to show. Apply glue to skewers in small dots to avoid excess glue oozing out when you press skewers together. Try using a q-tof or toothpick to help apply small amounts of glue.\\nIf you use string, make sure you have enough to wrap around each joint where skewers connect in your design. Note that you may also want or need wood glue to increase strength or make it easier to hold skewers together before wrapping with string.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build trusses first.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out the skewers for one truss (the support “wall” on either side of the bridge) flat on a table or other sturdy surface. You will need at least two skewers for the top and bottom “cords,” which are the horizontal pieces, and at least four for the diagonal “braces” that connect top and bottom cords.\\nForm triangles with the brace pieces by placing them at alternating angles, with each point connecting to the top or bottom cord. The number and exact positioning you use will depend on your specific design.\\nFor this and other parts of your bridge design, you may want to glue or tie several skewers together for each section to strengthen it. You can hold skewers together with binder clips to strengthen the bind if you are using glue to attach them.\\nRemember that you need to construct two trusses for your bridge. Once you’ve laid out the pieces for the first truss, do the same with another set of skewers for the other side of the bridge.\\nIf you are building a simple beam bridge, you will not need trusses and can skip this step.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Glue or tie truss skewers together.\", \"描述\": \"Use glue or string to attach each skewer you’ve laid out for one truss. Apply glue or string at every point where one skewer or bunch of skewers meets another.\\nOnce you are done with all the pieces of one truss, glue or tie the pieces of the second truss. Leave the two trusses laying separate from each other and flat on the table for now.\\nIf you’re using glue, you may want to let it dry overnight or for several hours after application, especially if you plan to have your bridge hold weight.\\nIf you are building a simple beam bridge, you will not need trusses and can skip this step.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Construct the bridge deck.\", \"描述\": \"Build the deck where one would walk or drive a vehicle on a full-size bridge. Lay out at least two horizontal pieces as deck beams that will connect the two trusses together at the bottom of either end.\\nIt may help to add several deck beams that connect the two trusses to lend support. You can connect these at the same place where each brace attaches to the bottom cord. For now, simply lay them down between your two assembled trusses to prepare for assembly.\\nOnce you have at least two deck beams in place, you can fill in between the beams entirely with skewers to make one even, flat surface. Or, you can later make a more solid deck out of a piece of cardboard, wood, or other flat material if you like.\\nIf you’re using glue to connect pieces of the deck, allow it to dry for several hours or overnight, especially if you plan for the bridge to hold weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Assemble the trusses and deck.\", \"描述\": \"Gently tape or temporarily fasten each assembled truss to an object with a flat, vertical side (like boxes or books) to help keep the trusses upright and perpendicular to the table. Then glue or tie your deck skewers to the trusses before removing the boxes or books.\\nFor best results, wait till glue fully dries if you’re using it to connect your bridge structures. Then leave the completed structure to dry for several more hours or overnight.\\nIf your bridge design includes top beams, connect them across the two top cords of your trusses once you have connected them to the deck. Your design does not need top beams, but they may help hold the structure together with more stability.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using or Displaying the Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use your bridge to test weight capacity.\", \"描述\": \"Try testing the weight that your bridge model will hold, either for fun or a competition. You can either place objects or weights directly on the bridge deck or suspended underneath it with a load bucket.\\nMake sure the two ends of your bridge are balanced across two stable surfaces to test its ability to hold weight.\\nIf you want to use a load bucket to test weight, try attaching a film canister below your bridge with a piece of string and a paper clip. Then fill the canister with metal washers, coins, or other weights one by one until the bridge can no longer sustain the weight and breaks.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make your bridge stable for use with small vehicles.\", \"描述\": \"Send small battery cars, trains, or other model vehicles across your bridge deck as part of a larger course or just for fun on its own.\\nYou may want to reinforce or make sure your bridge deck has a smooth, complete surface that your vehicle can drive up and over.\\nSecure the bridge to whatever surface or surfaces you want to have it on so that it stays put for use with your model vehicles.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Display your bridge in a model display.\", \"描述\": \"Add your bridge to a larger model display or village in any way you wish.\\nTry painting your bridge to match other pieces of your display or make it more authentic. Use paint with a small paintbrush or spray on spray paint to easily add colour to your model.\\nDisplay figurines or model vehicles on the deck of your bridge by gluing them in place or simply setting them on the surface. You may want to design your bridge to fit the scale of other model structures or figurines ahead of time if you plan to display it this way.\\nAdd other decorative elements to your bridge if you wish with string, metal ornaments, wood, or other items to make your bridge more realistic, colourful, or fitting with any theme you have for your display.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you’re using the bridge to test its weight bearing capacity, be prepared for it to break when you test the weight. You may want to try several different designs to test which one bears weight the best.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Skewers and the shears or scissors used to cut them are very sharp. Children should have assistance from a parent for this project.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,436 |
How to Build a Model Lighthouse
|
1. Building a Simple Lighthouse
1-1. Collect your materials.
This project requires brown, black, and white acrylic paint (and other colors, if you wish), an empty tuna can, an empty cylindrical oatmeal container, toothpicks, string, a transparency sheet, brown construction paper, a pencil, and some small rocks and pieces of grass (artificial grass, if you wish).
1-2. Trace a circle on a piece of brown construction paper using an empty tuna can.
Wash the can and dry it so it doesn’t drip on the paper. Place the can on the paper and trace around its perimeter. Set the can and paper aside.
1-3. Paint the tuna can and oatmeal container.
Paint the tuna can completely white. Paint the oatmeal container white, too, including its bottom. The oatmeal container will represent the main body of the lighthouse, so use other colors to paint windows and a door on it. You could also paint diagonal stripes around the oatmeal container if you wish.
Put down newspaper when painting.
Paint in a well-ventilated area.
After painting them, set the tuna can and oatmeal container aside to dry.
1-4. Roll the clay into a long, thin string and place it on the oatmeal container.
Press the clay into the top edge of the oatmeal container, then stick the toothpicks in it. Place the toothpicks at equal distances from one another. The toothpicks should come straight up and out of the clay.
You could roll the clay between your hands or against a flat surface to shape it into a string.
1-5. Glue the string into place around the toothpicks.
Cut two pieces of string just slightly longer than the circumference of the oatmeal container. At the top of each toothpick, apply a small dab of glue with your glue gun, then press one string into the glue.
Apply glue to the mid-points of each toothpick and stretch the second string along this second set of points.
1-6. Glue the tuna can upside-down onto the top of the oatmeal container.
Apply glue along the top edge of the tuna can, then turn it upside-down and press it gently onto the oatmeal container. The tuna can will be inside the ring of toothpicks, so be careful not to bump them.
The length of time required for the glue to dry depends on the type of glue you’re using. Consult manufacturer directions for more information.
1-7. Place a transparency cylinder on top of the tuna can.
Cut a piece from your transparency sheet that is 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide and just slightly shorter than the circumference of the tuna can. Tape the two ends of the transparency piece together so that it forms a cylinder and apply a thin line of glue along one edge. Center the glued edge over the tuna can and press it down gently.
A transparency cylinder is a rolled-up cylinder made of a transparency sheet.
The purpose of the transparency cylinder is to lend the lighthouse model a realistic look and provide a base for the model’s roof.
If you do not have a transparency sheet to make a transparency cylinder, get one from your local arts and crafts store.
1-8. Cut out the brown construction paper to make roof for the lighthouse.
Cut out the circle you drew earlier. Make a single cut in the circle from one edge directly toward its center. Gently pull the two sides of the cut toward each other so that they overlap slightly, making a shallow cone. Apply a piece of tape to the underside of the cone so that the paper retains this shape, then apply a few dabs of glue to the top edge of the transparency cylinder and set the brown paper cone on it.
1-9. Add some embellishments like grass and rocks.
Place the oatmeal container on a piece of plywood and arrange a few small pebbles and some loose grass around its base. If you have small animal figurines, you could incorporate them into the scene, too. You could also paint the wooden base the lighthouse is standing on to give it the appearance of dirt or create a winding path.
2. Building a Light-Up Lighthouse Model
2-1. Gather the materials you’ll need.
To build the lighthouse, you’ll need some materials you probably already have, including various acrylic paints and paintbrushes, tacky craft glue, a pencil, scissors, 6 brass paper fasteners, a knife, a ruler, old newspapers, a plastic lid from a small margarine container that measures 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) in diameter, and a D battery. You’ll also need to go to the craft store for some materials, including:
A 9 x 3-7/8 in (22.9 x 9.8 cm) styrofoam cone
A thick piece of cardboard measuring 12 by 12 inches (30 by 30 cm)
Two 16-inch (40.6 cm) pieces of #18 insulated wire
A small socket with a lightbulb
2-2. Remove 1 inch (2.5 cm) of coating from the ends of each wire.
Using wire strippers, grip the wire at the point where you want to strip the coating away, then pull the wire strippers toward the end you’re stripping. If you don’t have wire strippers, use a sharp knife to cut slowly into the wire 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end. Cut all the way around the wire without cutting through it, then pull the coating off the end.
2-3. Cut 2 inches (5.1 cm) off the top of a 3 ⁄8 inches (5.4 cm) styrofoam cone.
Lie the cone on its side, then use a sharp knife to cut straight through it. If you’re worried about making a straight cut, use a pencil to lightly draw the line along which you’ll cut the cone.
2-4. Paint the lighthouse in a manner that you desire.
You can paint the lighthouse a solid color, or give it stripes. There is no right or wrong way to paint your model lighthouse, so paint it as you like.
Acrylic craft paint is the best type of paint to use on styrofoam.
Styrofoam is absorbent, so paint on a few thick layers to ensure the paint is visible.
Before you start painting, protect your work surface by placing a few old newspapers on it.
2-5. Glue the cone on a piece of 12 by 12 inches (30 by 30 cm) cardboard.
The cardboard should be thick enough that it does not bend when you wave it up and down.
2-6. Cut two slits in the plastic lid.
Place the lid face-down on your work surface. Position the socket in the center of the lid and trace a circle around it with your pencil. Set the socket aside and slice two small slits through the lid with your knife or the tip of one arm of your scissors.
2-7. Feed the wires through the holes in the lid.
Push one piece of wire through the lid from below, then feed the other piece of wire through the other hole. If you’re having trouble getting the wire through, use one hand to hold the slit open and your other to push the wire through.
2-8. Glue the socket to the lid using the circle you marked earlier.
You shouldn’t need more than a few dabs of glue. Hold the socket in place for several seconds, then allow it to dry for about 10 minutes.
2-9. Connect the wires to the socket.
The socket should have one lead on one side and another lead on the other side. Wrap the wires around the leads they’re closest to. If the wires are not staying wound tightly around the socket’s leads, use tape to secure them.
2-10. Glue the lid to the top of the cone.
Position the cone in an upright position and apply a few dabs of glue to its flat top. Position the lid in the center of the cone and press it down lightly for a few seconds. Wait about 10 minutes for it to dry.
2-11. Connect the battery to the ends of the wire.
Wrap the remaining ends of wire to one of the leads on the D battery. It does not matter which lead you attach which wire to. If the light doesn’t light up, check your connections to make sure they are secure, or try another battery.
You can turn the light off by loosening any of the wire connections.
2-12. Place a lid over your light.
The final step in creating your model lighthouse is to cover the light with a clean, clear fruit or applesauce container. The container should have a diameter slightly smaller than that of the lid the light socket is on. Place the container loosely over the light, ensuring that it does not touch the bulb itself.
Tips
Look at pictures of real lighthouses for inspiration.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:49",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Simple Lighthouse\\n1-1. Collect your materials.\\nThis project requires brown, black, and white acrylic paint (and other colors, if you wish), an empty tuna can, an empty cylindrical oatmeal container, toothpicks, string, a transparency sheet, brown construction paper, a pencil, and some small rocks and pieces of grass (artificial grass, if you wish).\\n1-2. Trace a circle on a piece of brown construction paper using an empty tuna can.\\nWash the can and dry it so it doesn’t drip on the paper. Place the can on the paper and trace around its perimeter. Set the can and paper aside.\\n1-3. Paint the tuna can and oatmeal container.\\nPaint the tuna can completely white. Paint the oatmeal container white, too, including its bottom. The oatmeal container will represent the main body of the lighthouse, so use other colors to paint windows and a door on it. You could also paint diagonal stripes around the oatmeal container if you wish.\\nPut down newspaper when painting.\\nPaint in a well-ventilated area.\\nAfter painting them, set the tuna can and oatmeal container aside to dry.\\n1-4. Roll the clay into a long, thin string and place it on the oatmeal container.\\nPress the clay into the top edge of the oatmeal container, then stick the toothpicks in it. Place the toothpicks at equal distances from one another. The toothpicks should come straight up and out of the clay.\\nYou could roll the clay between your hands or against a flat surface to shape it into a string.\\n1-5. Glue the string into place around the toothpicks.\\nCut two pieces of string just slightly longer than the circumference of the oatmeal container. At the top of each toothpick, apply a small dab of glue with your glue gun, then press one string into the glue.\\nApply glue to the mid-points of each toothpick and stretch the second string along this second set of points.\\n1-6. Glue the tuna can upside-down onto the top of the oatmeal container.\\nApply glue along the top edge of the tuna can, then turn it upside-down and press it gently onto the oatmeal container. The tuna can will be inside the ring of toothpicks, so be careful not to bump them.\\nThe length of time required for the glue to dry depends on the type of glue you’re using. Consult manufacturer directions for more information.\\n1-7. Place a transparency cylinder on top of the tuna can.\\nCut a piece from your transparency sheet that is 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide and just slightly shorter than the circumference of the tuna can. Tape the two ends of the transparency piece together so that it forms a cylinder and apply a thin line of glue along one edge. Center the glued edge over the tuna can and press it down gently.\\nA transparency cylinder is a rolled-up cylinder made of a transparency sheet.\\nThe purpose of the transparency cylinder is to lend the lighthouse model a realistic look and provide a base for the model’s roof.\\nIf you do not have a transparency sheet to make a transparency cylinder, get one from your local arts and crafts store.\\n1-8. Cut out the brown construction paper to make roof for the lighthouse.\\nCut out the circle you drew earlier. Make a single cut in the circle from one edge directly toward its center. Gently pull the two sides of the cut toward each other so that they overlap slightly, making a shallow cone. Apply a piece of tape to the underside of the cone so that the paper retains this shape, then apply a few dabs of glue to the top edge of the transparency cylinder and set the brown paper cone on it.\\n1-9. Add some embellishments like grass and rocks.\\nPlace the oatmeal container on a piece of plywood and arrange a few small pebbles and some loose grass around its base. If you have small animal figurines, you could incorporate them into the scene, too. You could also paint the wooden base the lighthouse is standing on to give it the appearance of dirt or create a winding path.\\n2. Building a Light-Up Lighthouse Model\\n2-1. Gather the materials you’ll need.\\nTo build the lighthouse, you’ll need some materials you probably already have, including various acrylic paints and paintbrushes, tacky craft glue, a pencil, scissors, 6 brass paper fasteners, a knife, a ruler, old newspapers, a plastic lid from a small margarine container that measures 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) in diameter, and a D battery. You’ll also need to go to the craft store for some materials, including:\\nA 9 x 3-7/8 in (22.9 x 9.8 cm) styrofoam cone\\nA thick piece of cardboard measuring 12 by 12 inches (30 by 30 cm)\\nTwo 16-inch (40.6 cm) pieces of #18 insulated wire\\nA small socket with a lightbulb\\n2-2. Remove 1 inch (2.5 cm) of coating from the ends of each wire.\\nUsing wire strippers, grip the wire at the point where you want to strip the coating away, then pull the wire strippers toward the end you’re stripping. If you don’t have wire strippers, use a sharp knife to cut slowly into the wire 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end. Cut all the way around the wire without cutting through it, then pull the coating off the end.\\n2-3. Cut 2 inches (5.1 cm) off the top of a 3 ⁄8 inches (5.4 cm) styrofoam cone.\\nLie the cone on its side, then use a sharp knife to cut straight through it. If you’re worried about making a straight cut, use a pencil to lightly draw the line along which you’ll cut the cone.\\n2-4. Paint the lighthouse in a manner that you desire.\\nYou can paint the lighthouse a solid color, or give it stripes. There is no right or wrong way to paint your model lighthouse, so paint it as you like.\\nAcrylic craft paint is the best type of paint to use on styrofoam.\\nStyrofoam is absorbent, so paint on a few thick layers to ensure the paint is visible.\\nBefore you start painting, protect your work surface by placing a few old newspapers on it.\\n2-5. Glue the cone on a piece of 12 by 12 inches (30 by 30 cm) cardboard.\\nThe cardboard should be thick enough that it does not bend when you wave it up and down.\\n2-6. Cut two slits in the plastic lid.\\nPlace the lid face-down on your work surface. Position the socket in the center of the lid and trace a circle around it with your pencil. Set the socket aside and slice two small slits through the lid with your knife or the tip of one arm of your scissors.\\n2-7. Feed the wires through the holes in the lid.\\nPush one piece of wire through the lid from below, then feed the other piece of wire through the other hole. If you’re having trouble getting the wire through, use one hand to hold the slit open and your other to push the wire through.\\n2-8. Glue the socket to the lid using the circle you marked earlier.\\nYou shouldn’t need more than a few dabs of glue. Hold the socket in place for several seconds, then allow it to dry for about 10 minutes.\\n2-9. Connect the wires to the socket.\\nThe socket should have one lead on one side and another lead on the other side. Wrap the wires around the leads they’re closest to. If the wires are not staying wound tightly around the socket’s leads, use tape to secure them.\\n2-10. Glue the lid to the top of the cone.\\nPosition the cone in an upright position and apply a few dabs of glue to its flat top. Position the lid in the center of the cone and press it down lightly for a few seconds. Wait about 10 minutes for it to dry.\\n2-11. Connect the battery to the ends of the wire.\\nWrap the remaining ends of wire to one of the leads on the D battery. It does not matter which lead you attach which wire to. If the light doesn’t light up, check your connections to make sure they are secure, or try another battery.\\nYou can turn the light off by loosening any of the wire connections.\\n2-12. Place a lid over your light.\\nThe final step in creating your model lighthouse is to cover the light with a clean, clear fruit or applesauce container. The container should have a diameter slightly smaller than that of the lid the light socket is on. Place the container loosely over the light, ensuring that it does not touch the bulb itself.\\nTips\\nLook at pictures of real lighthouses for inspiration.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a lighthouse model is fun and easy. You could make a simple lighthouse model out of an empty oatmeal container, an empty tuna container, and a few other household items. If you’re interested in a more complex model, you could incorporate a small light bulb and socket at the top. With a bit of patience and creativity, you’ll soon have a cool model lighthouse.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Simple Lighthouse\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Collect your materials.\", \"描述\": \"This project requires brown, black, and white acrylic paint (and other colors, if you wish), an empty tuna can, an empty cylindrical oatmeal container, toothpicks, string, a transparency sheet, brown construction paper, a pencil, and some small rocks and pieces of grass (artificial grass, if you wish).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Trace a circle on a piece of brown construction paper using an empty tuna can.\", \"描述\": \"Wash the can and dry it so it doesn’t drip on the paper. Place the can on the paper and trace around its perimeter. Set the can and paper aside.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint the tuna can and oatmeal container.\", \"描述\": \"Paint the tuna can completely white. Paint the oatmeal container white, too, including its bottom. The oatmeal container will represent the main body of the lighthouse, so use other colors to paint windows and a door on it. You could also paint diagonal stripes around the oatmeal container if you wish.\\nPut down newspaper when painting.\\nPaint in a well-ventilated area.\\nAfter painting them, set the tuna can and oatmeal container aside to dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Roll the clay into a long, thin string and place it on the oatmeal container.\", \"描述\": \"Press the clay into the top edge of the oatmeal container, then stick the toothpicks in it. Place the toothpicks at equal distances from one another. The toothpicks should come straight up and out of the clay.\\nYou could roll the clay between your hands or against a flat surface to shape it into a string.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Glue the string into place around the toothpicks.\", \"描述\": \"Cut two pieces of string just slightly longer than the circumference of the oatmeal container. At the top of each toothpick, apply a small dab of glue with your glue gun, then press one string into the glue.\\nApply glue to the mid-points of each toothpick and stretch the second string along this second set of points.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Glue the tuna can upside-down onto the top of the oatmeal container.\", \"描述\": \"Apply glue along the top edge of the tuna can, then turn it upside-down and press it gently onto the oatmeal container. The tuna can will be inside the ring of toothpicks, so be careful not to bump them.\\nThe length of time required for the glue to dry depends on the type of glue you’re using. Consult manufacturer directions for more information.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place a transparency cylinder on top of the tuna can.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a piece from your transparency sheet that is 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide and just slightly shorter than the circumference of the tuna can. Tape the two ends of the transparency piece together so that it forms a cylinder and apply a thin line of glue along one edge. Center the glued edge over the tuna can and press it down gently.\\nA transparency cylinder is a rolled-up cylinder made of a transparency sheet.\\nThe purpose of the transparency cylinder is to lend the lighthouse model a realistic look and provide a base for the model’s roof.\\nIf you do not have a transparency sheet to make a transparency cylinder, get one from your local arts and crafts store.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut out the brown construction paper to make roof for the lighthouse.\", \"描述\": \"Cut out the circle you drew earlier. Make a single cut in the circle from one edge directly toward its center. Gently pull the two sides of the cut toward each other so that they overlap slightly, making a shallow cone. Apply a piece of tape to the underside of the cone so that the paper retains this shape, then apply a few dabs of glue to the top edge of the transparency cylinder and set the brown paper cone on it.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Add some embellishments like grass and rocks.\", \"描述\": \"Place the oatmeal container on a piece of plywood and arrange a few small pebbles and some loose grass around its base. If you have small animal figurines, you could incorporate them into the scene, too. You could also paint the wooden base the lighthouse is standing on to give it the appearance of dirt or create a winding path.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Light-Up Lighthouse Model\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the materials you’ll need.\", \"描述\": \"To build the lighthouse, you’ll need some materials you probably already have, including various acrylic paints and paintbrushes, tacky craft glue, a pencil, scissors, 6 brass paper fasteners, a knife, a ruler, old newspapers, a plastic lid from a small margarine container that measures 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) in diameter, and a D battery. You’ll also need to go to the craft store for some materials, including:\\nA 9 x 3-7/8 in (22.9 x 9.8 cm) styrofoam cone\\nA thick piece of cardboard measuring 12 by 12 inches (30 by 30 cm)\\nTwo 16-inch (40.6 cm) pieces of #18 insulated wire\\nA small socket with a lightbulb\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove 1 inch (2.5 cm) of coating from the ends of each wire.\", \"描述\": \"Using wire strippers, grip the wire at the point where you want to strip the coating away, then pull the wire strippers toward the end you’re stripping. If you don’t have wire strippers, use a sharp knife to cut slowly into the wire 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end. Cut all the way around the wire without cutting through it, then pull the coating off the end.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 inches (5.1 cm) off the top of a 3 ⁄8 inches (5.4 cm) styrofoam cone.\", \"描述\": \"Lie the cone on its side, then use a sharp knife to cut straight through it. If you’re worried about making a straight cut, use a pencil to lightly draw the line along which you’ll cut the cone.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Paint the lighthouse in a manner that you desire.\", \"描述\": \"You can paint the lighthouse a solid color, or give it stripes. There is no right or wrong way to paint your model lighthouse, so paint it as you like.\\nAcrylic craft paint is the best type of paint to use on styrofoam.\\nStyrofoam is absorbent, so paint on a few thick layers to ensure the paint is visible.\\nBefore you start painting, protect your work surface by placing a few old newspapers on it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Glue the cone on a piece of 12 by 12 inches (30 by 30 cm) cardboard.\", \"描述\": \"The cardboard should be thick enough that it does not bend when you wave it up and down.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut two slits in the plastic lid.\", \"描述\": \"Place the lid face-down on your work surface. Position the socket in the center of the lid and trace a circle around it with your pencil. Set the socket aside and slice two small slits through the lid with your knife or the tip of one arm of your scissors.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Feed the wires through the holes in the lid.\", \"描述\": \"Push one piece of wire through the lid from below, then feed the other piece of wire through the other hole. If you’re having trouble getting the wire through, use one hand to hold the slit open and your other to push the wire through.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Glue the socket to the lid using the circle you marked earlier.\", \"描述\": \"You shouldn’t need more than a few dabs of glue. Hold the socket in place for several seconds, then allow it to dry for about 10 minutes.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Connect the wires to the socket.\", \"描述\": \"The socket should have one lead on one side and another lead on the other side. Wrap the wires around the leads they’re closest to. If the wires are not staying wound tightly around the socket’s leads, use tape to secure them.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Glue the lid to the top of the cone.\", \"描述\": \"Position the cone in an upright position and apply a few dabs of glue to its flat top. Position the lid in the center of the cone and press it down lightly for a few seconds. Wait about 10 minutes for it to dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Connect the battery to the ends of the wire.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap the remaining ends of wire to one of the leads on the D battery. It does not matter which lead you attach which wire to. If the light doesn’t light up, check your connections to make sure they are secure, or try another battery.\\nYou can turn the light off by loosening any of the wire connections.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Place a lid over your light.\", \"描述\": \"The final step in creating your model lighthouse is to cover the light with a clean, clear fruit or applesauce container. The container should have a diameter slightly smaller than that of the lid the light socket is on. Place the container loosely over the light, ensuring that it does not touch the bulb itself.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Look at pictures of real lighthouses for inspiration.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,437 |
How to Build a Model Lung
|
1. Cutting Your Bottle and Straws
1-1. Punch a hole in the bottom portion of your bottle with scissors.
Use a utility knife to make a small incision, no bigger than 1 inch (2.5 cm) in the side of your plastic bottle, 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) above the bottom. The incision should be horizontal– in other words, perpendicular to the bottle’s length.
A 20 fluid ounces (590 ml) bottle works best, but you can use a slightly larger plastic bottle as well.
1-2. Cut the bottle into two pieces horizontally with your scissors.
Insert one of the scissor blades into the incision that you made so that half of your scissors are inside of the bottle. Hold the bottle firmly in your non-dominant hand, and cut all the way around the side of the bottle with your scissors so that you end up with two halves—one half with the bottle cap and one half with the base. Discard the bottom half of your plastic bottle.
1-3. Use your utility knife to cut an opening in the bottle cap.
Hold the bottle cap in place with your nondominant hand and carefully puncture the top of the bottle cap with the tip of your utility knife. Once the tip of the blade is inserted into the plastic, rotate the cap with your nondominant hand while you carve a small circle into the cap by holding the knife at an 80-degree angle.
You may need to use a drill bit to puncture your hole if the bottle cap is too thick for a utility knife. In this case, use clamps to secure the bottle cap in place. If you don't feel comfortable using a drill, ask an experienced adult for help.
You’ll be inserting a straw through this opening, so don’t make the hole too big!
1-4. Test your bottle cap by trying to fit a plastic straw inside.
Take a plastic straw and try to squeeze it through your bottle cap. If the straw fits and doesn’t fall out of the opening, your bottle is ready to go. It’s okay if the straw is a little snug inside the hole. A tighter fit is going to be easier to work with than a looser fit.
1-5. Cut a plastic straw in thirds with your scissors.
Hold the straw in your non-dominant hand and cut it in thirds. Cut at an angle that’s perpendicular to the straw so that the places where you cut are even and flat. Use your scissors to cut each end of the straw’s sections at a 45-degree angle to make them pointy.
2. Adding Your Balloons and Straws
2-1. Slide the pointed edges of two pieces of straw into the bottom of a larger straw.
Squeeze the tip of each straw and slide each inside the same opening at the bottom of an uncut straw. The two smaller sections that you already cut will rely on the tension inside the opening to keep them in place. Make sure the sections of straw are resting at a 45-degree angle away from the larger straw and are symmetrical.
2-2. Glue the junction where your three straws meet with a hot glue gun.
Put a piece of paper down before using hot glue to cover the junction where your three straws meet. This will ensure that no air escapes when you’re using your lung. Wait 2-3 minutes to let the hot glue dry.
You can use electrical tape or duct tape if you don’t have any hot glue. Just don’t wrap it so tightly that you constrict the movement of air in the straw.
2-3. Add hot glue to the inside lip of two balloons and put them on the straws.
Put a dollop of hot glue inside each balloon near the top of each balloon’s opening. Slide them over each of the branching straws so that the longer length of straw is still open. Squeeze the section where you added hot glue against each straw for 15-30 seconds so that they’re sealed over the opening of each straw.
Blow into the open end of your straw to test it. If the balloons expand, you’re ready to continue. If you hear air coming out, identify the leak and cover it with hot glue.
You can also use rubber bands or tape to keep your balloons attached to the straw, but the seal may end up being too tight.
3. Finishing and Using Your Model Lung
3-1. Slide the open end of your straw through the bottle cap.
You may need to pinch the opening of your straw to fit it through the hole as you slide it up through the bottle cap. Slide it until each balloon is inside the case of your bottle. Screw the bottle cap tight if it wasn’t already screwed on, and seal the area where your length of straw and bottle cap meet with hot glue.
You’ll have a long length of straw sticking out through the top of your bottle cap. You only need 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of straw sticking out to make your lung work, so feel free to trim the rest of it off with your scissors.
3-2. Cut another balloon near the neck with your scissors.
Pinch the top of the balloon between your index and middle finger on your non-dominant hand. Pull-on the bottom of the balloon with your thumb and ring finger to stretch it out. With the scissors in your dominant hand, cut the balloon about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from the top near the section where the balloon’s neck begins to fan out.
3-3. Slide the balloon that you cut over the bottom of your bottle.
Spread the balloon out with both hands and stretch it evenly over the bottom of the bottle. It may take a couple of attempts since the plastic and the balloon are both flexible. Use a rubber band or tape to secure the balloon to the bottle by wrapping it around the area where they meet.
3-4. Pull on the skin of the balloon at the bottom to use your lung.
When you pull on the balloon that’s covering the opening on the opposite side of the bottle cap, you’ll notice that the two balloons inside inflate and deflate as you tug on it. This happens because the pressure inside of the bottle is pulling on the balloons and allowing them to take in air—just like your lungs!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:49",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Cutting Your Bottle and Straws\\n1-1. Punch a hole in the bottom portion of your bottle with scissors.\\nUse a utility knife to make a small incision, no bigger than 1 inch (2.5 cm) in the side of your plastic bottle, 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) above the bottom. The incision should be horizontal– in other words, perpendicular to the bottle’s length.\\nA 20 fluid ounces (590 ml) bottle works best, but you can use a slightly larger plastic bottle as well.\\n1-2. Cut the bottle into two pieces horizontally with your scissors.\\nInsert one of the scissor blades into the incision that you made so that half of your scissors are inside of the bottle. Hold the bottle firmly in your non-dominant hand, and cut all the way around the side of the bottle with your scissors so that you end up with two halves—one half with the bottle cap and one half with the base. Discard the bottom half of your plastic bottle.\\n1-3. Use your utility knife to cut an opening in the bottle cap.\\nHold the bottle cap in place with your nondominant hand and carefully puncture the top of the bottle cap with the tip of your utility knife. Once the tip of the blade is inserted into the plastic, rotate the cap with your nondominant hand while you carve a small circle into the cap by holding the knife at an 80-degree angle.\\nYou may need to use a drill bit to puncture your hole if the bottle cap is too thick for a utility knife. In this case, use clamps to secure the bottle cap in place. If you don't feel comfortable using a drill, ask an experienced adult for help.\\nYou’ll be inserting a straw through this opening, so don’t make the hole too big!\\n1-4. Test your bottle cap by trying to fit a plastic straw inside.\\nTake a plastic straw and try to squeeze it through your bottle cap. If the straw fits and doesn’t fall out of the opening, your bottle is ready to go. It’s okay if the straw is a little snug inside the hole. A tighter fit is going to be easier to work with than a looser fit.\\n1-5. Cut a plastic straw in thirds with your scissors.\\nHold the straw in your non-dominant hand and cut it in thirds. Cut at an angle that’s perpendicular to the straw so that the places where you cut are even and flat. Use your scissors to cut each end of the straw’s sections at a 45-degree angle to make them pointy.\\n2. Adding Your Balloons and Straws\\n2-1. Slide the pointed edges of two pieces of straw into the bottom of a larger straw.\\nSqueeze the tip of each straw and slide each inside the same opening at the bottom of an uncut straw. The two smaller sections that you already cut will rely on the tension inside the opening to keep them in place. Make sure the sections of straw are resting at a 45-degree angle away from the larger straw and are symmetrical.\\n2-2. Glue the junction where your three straws meet with a hot glue gun.\\nPut a piece of paper down before using hot glue to cover the junction where your three straws meet. This will ensure that no air escapes when you’re using your lung. Wait 2-3 minutes to let the hot glue dry.\\nYou can use electrical tape or duct tape if you don’t have any hot glue. Just don’t wrap it so tightly that you constrict the movement of air in the straw.\\n2-3. Add hot glue to the inside lip of two balloons and put them on the straws.\\nPut a dollop of hot glue inside each balloon near the top of each balloon’s opening. Slide them over each of the branching straws so that the longer length of straw is still open. Squeeze the section where you added hot glue against each straw for 15-30 seconds so that they’re sealed over the opening of each straw.\\nBlow into the open end of your straw to test it. If the balloons expand, you’re ready to continue. If you hear air coming out, identify the leak and cover it with hot glue.\\nYou can also use rubber bands or tape to keep your balloons attached to the straw, but the seal may end up being too tight.\\n3. Finishing and Using Your Model Lung\\n3-1. Slide the open end of your straw through the bottle cap.\\nYou may need to pinch the opening of your straw to fit it through the hole as you slide it up through the bottle cap. Slide it until each balloon is inside the case of your bottle. Screw the bottle cap tight if it wasn’t already screwed on, and seal the area where your length of straw and bottle cap meet with hot glue.\\nYou’ll have a long length of straw sticking out through the top of your bottle cap. You only need 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of straw sticking out to make your lung work, so feel free to trim the rest of it off with your scissors.\\n3-2. Cut another balloon near the neck with your scissors.\\nPinch the top of the balloon between your index and middle finger on your non-dominant hand. Pull-on the bottom of the balloon with your thumb and ring finger to stretch it out. With the scissors in your dominant hand, cut the balloon about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from the top near the section where the balloon’s neck begins to fan out.\\n3-3. Slide the balloon that you cut over the bottom of your bottle.\\nSpread the balloon out with both hands and stretch it evenly over the bottom of the bottle. It may take a couple of attempts since the plastic and the balloon are both flexible. Use a rubber band or tape to secure the balloon to the bottle by wrapping it around the area where they meet.\\n3-4. Pull on the skin of the balloon at the bottom to use your lung.\\nWhen you pull on the balloon that’s covering the opening on the opposite side of the bottle cap, you’ll notice that the two balloons inside inflate and deflate as you tug on it. This happens because the pressure inside of the bottle is pulling on the balloons and allowing them to take in air—just like your lungs!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a model lung is a fun way to participate in a science fair, complete an assignment for class, or simply learn more about how the human body works. Creating a model lung is simple, and uses materials that you probably already have sitting around in your home. To make a model lung, you’ll need a plastic bottle, some straws, a few balloons, hot glue, and a pair of scissors. A utility knife will also make cutting through your bottle cap easy.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cutting Your Bottle and Straws\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Punch a hole in the bottom portion of your bottle with scissors.\", \"描述\": \"Use a utility knife to make a small incision, no bigger than 1 inch (2.5 cm) in the side of your plastic bottle, 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) above the bottom. The incision should be horizontal– in other words, perpendicular to the bottle’s length.\\nA 20 fluid ounces (590 ml) bottle works best, but you can use a slightly larger plastic bottle as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the bottle into two pieces horizontally with your scissors.\", \"描述\": \"Insert one of the scissor blades into the incision that you made so that half of your scissors are inside of the bottle. Hold the bottle firmly in your non-dominant hand, and cut all the way around the side of the bottle with your scissors so that you end up with two halves—one half with the bottle cap and one half with the base. Discard the bottom half of your plastic bottle.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use your utility knife to cut an opening in the bottle cap.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the bottle cap in place with your nondominant hand and carefully puncture the top of the bottle cap with the tip of your utility knife. Once the tip of the blade is inserted into the plastic, rotate the cap with your nondominant hand while you carve a small circle into the cap by holding the knife at an 80-degree angle.\\nYou may need to use a drill bit to puncture your hole if the bottle cap is too thick for a utility knife. In this case, use clamps to secure the bottle cap in place. If you don't feel comfortable using a drill, ask an experienced adult for help.\\nYou’ll be inserting a straw through this opening, so don’t make the hole too big!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Test your bottle cap by trying to fit a plastic straw inside.\", \"描述\": \"Take a plastic straw and try to squeeze it through your bottle cap. If the straw fits and doesn’t fall out of the opening, your bottle is ready to go. It’s okay if the straw is a little snug inside the hole. A tighter fit is going to be easier to work with than a looser fit.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut a plastic straw in thirds with your scissors.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the straw in your non-dominant hand and cut it in thirds. Cut at an angle that’s perpendicular to the straw so that the places where you cut are even and flat. Use your scissors to cut each end of the straw’s sections at a 45-degree angle to make them pointy.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding Your Balloons and Straws\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Slide the pointed edges of two pieces of straw into the bottom of a larger straw.\", \"描述\": \"Squeeze the tip of each straw and slide each inside the same opening at the bottom of an uncut straw. The two smaller sections that you already cut will rely on the tension inside the opening to keep them in place. Make sure the sections of straw are resting at a 45-degree angle away from the larger straw and are symmetrical.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Glue the junction where your three straws meet with a hot glue gun.\", \"描述\": \"Put a piece of paper down before using hot glue to cover the junction where your three straws meet. This will ensure that no air escapes when you’re using your lung. Wait 2-3 minutes to let the hot glue dry.\\nYou can use electrical tape or duct tape if you don’t have any hot glue. Just don’t wrap it so tightly that you constrict the movement of air in the straw.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add hot glue to the inside lip of two balloons and put them on the straws.\", \"描述\": \"Put a dollop of hot glue inside each balloon near the top of each balloon’s opening. Slide them over each of the branching straws so that the longer length of straw is still open. Squeeze the section where you added hot glue against each straw for 15-30 seconds so that they’re sealed over the opening of each straw.\\nBlow into the open end of your straw to test it. If the balloons expand, you’re ready to continue. If you hear air coming out, identify the leak and cover it with hot glue.\\nYou can also use rubber bands or tape to keep your balloons attached to the straw, but the seal may end up being too tight.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing and Using Your Model Lung\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Slide the open end of your straw through the bottle cap.\", \"描述\": \"You may need to pinch the opening of your straw to fit it through the hole as you slide it up through the bottle cap. Slide it until each balloon is inside the case of your bottle. Screw the bottle cap tight if it wasn’t already screwed on, and seal the area where your length of straw and bottle cap meet with hot glue.\\nYou’ll have a long length of straw sticking out through the top of your bottle cap. You only need 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of straw sticking out to make your lung work, so feel free to trim the rest of it off with your scissors.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut another balloon near the neck with your scissors.\", \"描述\": \"Pinch the top of the balloon between your index and middle finger on your non-dominant hand. Pull-on the bottom of the balloon with your thumb and ring finger to stretch it out. With the scissors in your dominant hand, cut the balloon about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from the top near the section where the balloon’s neck begins to fan out.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Slide the balloon that you cut over the bottom of your bottle.\", \"描述\": \"Spread the balloon out with both hands and stretch it evenly over the bottom of the bottle. It may take a couple of attempts since the plastic and the balloon are both flexible. Use a rubber band or tape to secure the balloon to the bottle by wrapping it around the area where they meet.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pull on the skin of the balloon at the bottom to use your lung.\", \"描述\": \"When you pull on the balloon that’s covering the opening on the opposite side of the bottle cap, you’ll notice that the two balloons inside inflate and deflate as you tug on it. This happens because the pressure inside of the bottle is pulling on the balloons and allowing them to take in air—just like your lungs!\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,438 |
How to Build a Model Pyramid
|
1. Making a Paper Pyramid
1-1. Measure and draw out a square using a pencil and ruler.
Use a pencil and a ruler to draw out a square on a sheet of clean paper. Hold the ruler in your nondominant hand and use the side of the ruler as a straight edge to draw each side of your square.
Make your square 7.7 by 7.7 centimetres (3.0 by 3.0 in) to create a scale model of the Great Pyramid! Every 1 centimetre (0.39 in) will represent 30 metres (98 ft) of the pyramid.
1-2. Draw 4 symmetrical lines that start on each side of your square.
Use your ruler to calculate the midsection of each side of your square. Mark the spot where you need to place each line with a small hash mark and then rotate your ruler to draw each line perpendicular to the square's side.
For the Great Pyramid scale model, place each line 3.85 centimetres (1.52 in) in from the corner of each side, and make it extend 6.2 centimetres (2.4 in) out from the square.
If you're not building the scale model of the Great Pyramid, you have to draw each line so that it's big enough to meet the other faces of the pyramid in the center. To be safe, make each line at least the same length as a single side of your square.
1-3. Connect each line to the adjacent corners with your pencil.
Use your ruler to line up a connection between the top of each line and the corner on each adjacent side. Start at the top of a line and draw a connecting line to the corner of the square on the left. Draw a symmetrical line going from the top of the line to the corner on the right. Sketch your lines out using the ruler and pencil until you've drawn 8 connecting lines to their corresponding corner on the square.
You should now be looking at 4 triangles that share a base with the 4 sides of your square.
For the scale model, each connecting line should be 7.3 centimetres (2.9 in).
1-4. Cut out your pyramid carefully with a pair of scissors.
Hold the paper in your nondominant hand and use a pair of scissors to cut along the exterior edges of your shape. Continue cutting along the edges until you've cut out the entire drawing. It should look like it was cut out in one continuous cut.
1-5. Fold each face of the pyramid towards the middle.
Lay your cut-out shape flat on your work surface. Use your nondominant hand to brace the paper along each side of your square before folding each triangle towards the center. Use the pad of your finger to firmly press down along each fold. Continue until you've folded every side of your pyramid towards the center.
You can fold each face so that it lays flat in the center before folding the next section if you want to get each side out of the way. This may make folding much easier.
1-6. Tape the edges of the pyramid's faces where they meet.
Pull each folded edge out until each triangle is sitting flush against one another. Use clear tape to permanently join each edge together. Use long pieces of tape, and put each strip on the side of your triangles at the line where they meet one another before pressing lightly along the sides.
Press your tape down slowly and delicately. There's nothing but air inside your pyramid, and you don't want to crush it while you're taping it.
1-7. Cover your pyramid with glue to add sand if you want to make it realistic.
Place your pyramid in a small, plastic sandwich container or paper plate to catch the sand that you're going to pour over the pyramid. Use a paintbrush to apply white glue to each face of your pyramid. Spread it liberally across each visible surface until the entire structure is wet.
While you certainly want to cover each side of your pyramid, avoid using heavy globs of glue. You don't want to weigh your pyramid down and ruin the paper.
1-8. Sprinkle sand over the top of your pyramid.
Slowly pour sand over the top of your pyramid, covering each side of the structure as you pour. Use a spoon to scoop sand that falls to the bottom of your container on top of the areas that are missing sand. Repeat this process until each section is fully covered. Wait 45-60 minutes for your pyramid to fully dry before handling it.
2. Building a Cardboard Pyramid
2-1. Draw out 4 triangles of equal size on a piece of cardboard.
Each triangle has to be exactly the same size to make a perfect pyramid. Measure your base first and then draw a line extending from the center. Use a ruler as a straight edge to draw connecting lines between the top of your center line and each end of the triangle's base.
To make a medium-sized pyramid, make each triangle 8 inches (20 cm) wide and 12 inches (30 cm) tall from the center.
2-2. Cut your triangles out with scissors or a utility knife.
Place your cardboard on a stable work surface and hold it in your nondominant hand. Use your dominant hand to cut along each side of each triangle. Continue cutting until you have 4 triangles of equal sizes.
If your cardboard is too thick to be cut with scissors, put a cutting board down and lay each piece of cardboard flat. Use a utility knife to cut each triangle out by dragging it through the cardboard along each section of your outline.
2-3. Glue 2 triangles together at the edge with a glue gun.
Plug in a glue gun and set it down nearby to let the glue heat up. Use both hands to hold 2 triangles with their bases flat on the work surface and lean them together so that 2 of their edges meet. Use your nondominant hand to hold them together near the top as you grab your glue gun. Pull the trigger on the glue gun as you slide it along the edge where your 2 faces meet.
Hold your 2 sides still for 45-60 seconds to give your glue time to initially dry. Set your 2 pieces aside and leave them for 10-20 minutes to let the glue fully set.
2-4. Attach your other 2 sides together and combine your pieces.
Glue the other 2 sides together the same way and let them air dry. Once you have 2 pieces, arrange them in the center of your work surface so that each remaining edge is connecting. You should be looking at an unglued pyramid at this point. Use your glue gun to run hot glue along the 2 remaining edges and let it dry for 10-20 minutes.
After you put glue along the 2 remaining edges, lightly press your pieces together for 30-45 seconds to keep any gaps closed as it dries.
2-5. Draw and cut out a square base for your pyramid.
You can draw your base out so that it fits perfectly around your pyramid by holding your glued triangles in place and using the base of each face as a straight edge. You can also choose to make a bigger base by measuring 4 lines of qual distance out from each side of the pyramid. Use a straight edge and a pencil to sketch your base and cut it out with scissors or a utility knife.
For a medium-sized pyramid, a good base is 14 by 14 inches (36 by 36 cm).
2-6. Draw vertical and horizontal lines with a permanent marker to make bricks.
To make your pyramid look like it's made out of individual bricks, draw a series of parallel lines horizontally along each face of your pyramid with a black marker. The lines don't need to be perfectly straight if you want it to look natural, but you can choose to make them even with a straight edge if you'd like. Make vertical marks between each horizontal row every 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) to create the appearance of individual bricks.
2-7. Use a butter knife or popsicle stick to spread glue over each face.
Drizzle white glue over your pyramid and use the flat side of a popsicle stick or butter knife to spread it around. Continue spreading the glue until you've covered most of the pyramid.
Don't forget about the base! Spread a lot of glue around your base so that the sand can fully cover it.
2-8. Sprinkle sand over your pyramid to make it look real.
While the glue is still wet, pour sand all over your pyramid. Slowly pour your sand 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) above each section of your pyramid and let it collect at the base to give your pyramid a realistic look. Let it air dry for 1-2 hours before touching it.
If you want more of the bricks that you drew to show through, you can scrape sections of your pyramid with your knife or popsicle stick to knock some of it off.
3. Creating a Step Pyramid with Sugar Cubes
3-1. Spread glue across the surface of a paper plate.
Pour white glue on top of your plate. Use a paintbrush to spread it evenly over the surface where you want to build your pyramid. This will serve as the base, so make sure that each section has some glue on it.
You can use a Styrofoam tray or wood surface as a base if you prefer.
You'll need 140 cubes for a 7x7 pyramid.
3-2. Place sugar cubes in a 7x7 square.
Start with a corner of your pyramid. Place your first sugar cube in the glue and press down lightly to set it in place. Continue placing cubes next to it in both directions until you have 7 cubes on each side. Fill in the rest of the open space in your square with sugar cubes.
3-3. Drizzle glue in a 6x6 square on top of your first layer.
Use the gaps between cubes to determine where a 6x6 layer will rest on top of the first layer. Pour glue in a square along the edges of your 6x6 outline and then fill in the middle of the square with glue. Put at least one dollop of glue on each interior square to ensure that the upper layer remains in place.
3-4. Add your 6x6 layer of sugar cubes by putting them on top of the glue.
With your glue still wet, begin to place cubes in a 6x6 row on top of your first layer. Line each cube up so that it rests directly on top of a cube underneath it. Do not press down on your cubes as you place them.
Save time by setting your layer out on a separate plate and transferring it over by pinching an entire row between two fingers.
3-5. Continue this process until you've completed a pyramid.
Place additional layers on top of your pyramid by moving in 1 cube at a time for each layer. Your next layer will be 5x5, then 4x4, and so on. Add a new layer of glue each time that you add a layer.
Do not leave cubes out of the middle of a layer or you'll risk breaking your pyramid.
You can use glue and glitter, sand, or paint to cover your cube if you'd like.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:49",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Paper Pyramid\\n1-1. Measure and draw out a square using a pencil and ruler.\\nUse a pencil and a ruler to draw out a square on a sheet of clean paper. Hold the ruler in your nondominant hand and use the side of the ruler as a straight edge to draw each side of your square.\\nMake your square 7.7 by 7.7 centimetres (3.0 by 3.0 in) to create a scale model of the Great Pyramid! Every 1 centimetre (0.39 in) will represent 30 metres (98 ft) of the pyramid.\\n1-2. Draw 4 symmetrical lines that start on each side of your square.\\nUse your ruler to calculate the midsection of each side of your square. Mark the spot where you need to place each line with a small hash mark and then rotate your ruler to draw each line perpendicular to the square's side.\\nFor the Great Pyramid scale model, place each line 3.85 centimetres (1.52 in) in from the corner of each side, and make it extend 6.2 centimetres (2.4 in) out from the square.\\nIf you're not building the scale model of the Great Pyramid, you have to draw each line so that it's big enough to meet the other faces of the pyramid in the center. To be safe, make each line at least the same length as a single side of your square.\\n1-3. Connect each line to the adjacent corners with your pencil.\\nUse your ruler to line up a connection between the top of each line and the corner on each adjacent side. Start at the top of a line and draw a connecting line to the corner of the square on the left. Draw a symmetrical line going from the top of the line to the corner on the right. Sketch your lines out using the ruler and pencil until you've drawn 8 connecting lines to their corresponding corner on the square.\\nYou should now be looking at 4 triangles that share a base with the 4 sides of your square.\\nFor the scale model, each connecting line should be 7.3 centimetres (2.9 in).\\n1-4. Cut out your pyramid carefully with a pair of scissors.\\nHold the paper in your nondominant hand and use a pair of scissors to cut along the exterior edges of your shape. Continue cutting along the edges until you've cut out the entire drawing. It should look like it was cut out in one continuous cut.\\n1-5. Fold each face of the pyramid towards the middle.\\nLay your cut-out shape flat on your work surface. Use your nondominant hand to brace the paper along each side of your square before folding each triangle towards the center. Use the pad of your finger to firmly press down along each fold. Continue until you've folded every side of your pyramid towards the center.\\nYou can fold each face so that it lays flat in the center before folding the next section if you want to get each side out of the way. This may make folding much easier.\\n1-6. Tape the edges of the pyramid's faces where they meet.\\nPull each folded edge out until each triangle is sitting flush against one another. Use clear tape to permanently join each edge together. Use long pieces of tape, and put each strip on the side of your triangles at the line where they meet one another before pressing lightly along the sides.\\nPress your tape down slowly and delicately. There's nothing but air inside your pyramid, and you don't want to crush it while you're taping it.\\n1-7. Cover your pyramid with glue to add sand if you want to make it realistic.\\nPlace your pyramid in a small, plastic sandwich container or paper plate to catch the sand that you're going to pour over the pyramid. Use a paintbrush to apply white glue to each face of your pyramid. Spread it liberally across each visible surface until the entire structure is wet.\\nWhile you certainly want to cover each side of your pyramid, avoid using heavy globs of glue. You don't want to weigh your pyramid down and ruin the paper.\\n1-8. Sprinkle sand over the top of your pyramid.\\nSlowly pour sand over the top of your pyramid, covering each side of the structure as you pour. Use a spoon to scoop sand that falls to the bottom of your container on top of the areas that are missing sand. Repeat this process until each section is fully covered. Wait 45-60 minutes for your pyramid to fully dry before handling it.\\n2. Building a Cardboard Pyramid\\n2-1. Draw out 4 triangles of equal size on a piece of cardboard.\\nEach triangle has to be exactly the same size to make a perfect pyramid. Measure your base first and then draw a line extending from the center. Use a ruler as a straight edge to draw connecting lines between the top of your center line and each end of the triangle's base.\\nTo make a medium-sized pyramid, make each triangle 8 inches (20 cm) wide and 12 inches (30 cm) tall from the center.\\n2-2. Cut your triangles out with scissors or a utility knife.\\nPlace your cardboard on a stable work surface and hold it in your nondominant hand. Use your dominant hand to cut along each side of each triangle. Continue cutting until you have 4 triangles of equal sizes.\\nIf your cardboard is too thick to be cut with scissors, put a cutting board down and lay each piece of cardboard flat. Use a utility knife to cut each triangle out by dragging it through the cardboard along each section of your outline.\\n2-3. Glue 2 triangles together at the edge with a glue gun.\\nPlug in a glue gun and set it down nearby to let the glue heat up. Use both hands to hold 2 triangles with their bases flat on the work surface and lean them together so that 2 of their edges meet. Use your nondominant hand to hold them together near the top as you grab your glue gun. Pull the trigger on the glue gun as you slide it along the edge where your 2 faces meet.\\nHold your 2 sides still for 45-60 seconds to give your glue time to initially dry. Set your 2 pieces aside and leave them for 10-20 minutes to let the glue fully set.\\n2-4. Attach your other 2 sides together and combine your pieces.\\nGlue the other 2 sides together the same way and let them air dry. Once you have 2 pieces, arrange them in the center of your work surface so that each remaining edge is connecting. You should be looking at an unglued pyramid at this point. Use your glue gun to run hot glue along the 2 remaining edges and let it dry for 10-20 minutes.\\nAfter you put glue along the 2 remaining edges, lightly press your pieces together for 30-45 seconds to keep any gaps closed as it dries.\\n2-5. Draw and cut out a square base for your pyramid.\\nYou can draw your base out so that it fits perfectly around your pyramid by holding your glued triangles in place and using the base of each face as a straight edge. You can also choose to make a bigger base by measuring 4 lines of qual distance out from each side of the pyramid. Use a straight edge and a pencil to sketch your base and cut it out with scissors or a utility knife.\\nFor a medium-sized pyramid, a good base is 14 by 14 inches (36 by 36 cm).\\n2-6. Draw vertical and horizontal lines with a permanent marker to make bricks.\\nTo make your pyramid look like it's made out of individual bricks, draw a series of parallel lines horizontally along each face of your pyramid with a black marker. The lines don't need to be perfectly straight if you want it to look natural, but you can choose to make them even with a straight edge if you'd like. Make vertical marks between each horizontal row every 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) to create the appearance of individual bricks.\\n2-7. Use a butter knife or popsicle stick to spread glue over each face.\\nDrizzle white glue over your pyramid and use the flat side of a popsicle stick or butter knife to spread it around. Continue spreading the glue until you've covered most of the pyramid.\\nDon't forget about the base! Spread a lot of glue around your base so that the sand can fully cover it.\\n2-8. Sprinkle sand over your pyramid to make it look real.\\nWhile the glue is still wet, pour sand all over your pyramid. Slowly pour your sand 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) above each section of your pyramid and let it collect at the base to give your pyramid a realistic look. Let it air dry for 1-2 hours before touching it.\\nIf you want more of the bricks that you drew to show through, you can scrape sections of your pyramid with your knife or popsicle stick to knock some of it off.\\n3. Creating a Step Pyramid with Sugar Cubes\\n3-1. Spread glue across the surface of a paper plate.\\nPour white glue on top of your plate. Use a paintbrush to spread it evenly over the surface where you want to build your pyramid. This will serve as the base, so make sure that each section has some glue on it.\\nYou can use a Styrofoam tray or wood surface as a base if you prefer.\\nYou'll need 140 cubes for a 7x7 pyramid.\\n3-2. Place sugar cubes in a 7x7 square.\\nStart with a corner of your pyramid. Place your first sugar cube in the glue and press down lightly to set it in place. Continue placing cubes next to it in both directions until you have 7 cubes on each side. Fill in the rest of the open space in your square with sugar cubes.\\n3-3. Drizzle glue in a 6x6 square on top of your first layer.\\nUse the gaps between cubes to determine where a 6x6 layer will rest on top of the first layer. Pour glue in a square along the edges of your 6x6 outline and then fill in the middle of the square with glue. Put at least one dollop of glue on each interior square to ensure that the upper layer remains in place.\\n3-4. Add your 6x6 layer of sugar cubes by putting them on top of the glue.\\nWith your glue still wet, begin to place cubes in a 6x6 row on top of your first layer. Line each cube up so that it rests directly on top of a cube underneath it. Do not press down on your cubes as you place them.\\nSave time by setting your layer out on a separate plate and transferring it over by pinching an entire row between two fingers.\\n3-5. Continue this process until you've completed a pyramid.\\nPlace additional layers on top of your pyramid by moving in 1 cube at a time for each layer. Your next layer will be 5x5, then 4x4, and so on. Add a new layer of glue each time that you add a layer.\\nDo not leave cubes out of the middle of a layer or you'll risk breaking your pyramid.\\nYou can use glue and glitter, sand, or paint to cover your cube if you'd like.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a model pyramid is quite easy if you have the right materials and know how to carefully measure, cut, and glue. You can make a simple pyramid out of cardboard or paper. To do this, carefully measure and cut each face of your pyramid and attach them together with glue or tape. For a different style of pyramid, you can make a step pyramid out of sugar cubes and glue. Regardless of the material that you choose to use, building a model pyramid can be an easy way to complete a school project while having fun building something from scratch.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Paper Pyramid\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and draw out a square using a pencil and ruler.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pencil and a ruler to draw out a square on a sheet of clean paper. Hold the ruler in your nondominant hand and use the side of the ruler as a straight edge to draw each side of your square.\\nMake your square 7.7 by 7.7 centimetres (3.0 by 3.0 in) to create a scale model of the Great Pyramid! Every 1 centimetre (0.39 in) will represent 30 metres (98 ft) of the pyramid.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Draw 4 symmetrical lines that start on each side of your square.\", \"描述\": \"Use your ruler to calculate the midsection of each side of your square. Mark the spot where you need to place each line with a small hash mark and then rotate your ruler to draw each line perpendicular to the square's side.\\nFor the Great Pyramid scale model, place each line 3.85 centimetres (1.52 in) in from the corner of each side, and make it extend 6.2 centimetres (2.4 in) out from the square.\\nIf you're not building the scale model of the Great Pyramid, you have to draw each line so that it's big enough to meet the other faces of the pyramid in the center. To be safe, make each line at least the same length as a single side of your square.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect each line to the adjacent corners with your pencil.\", \"描述\": \"Use your ruler to line up a connection between the top of each line and the corner on each adjacent side. Start at the top of a line and draw a connecting line to the corner of the square on the left. Draw a symmetrical line going from the top of the line to the corner on the right. Sketch your lines out using the ruler and pencil until you've drawn 8 connecting lines to their corresponding corner on the square.\\nYou should now be looking at 4 triangles that share a base with the 4 sides of your square.\\nFor the scale model, each connecting line should be 7.3 centimetres (2.9 in).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut out your pyramid carefully with a pair of scissors.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the paper in your nondominant hand and use a pair of scissors to cut along the exterior edges of your shape. Continue cutting along the edges until you've cut out the entire drawing. It should look like it was cut out in one continuous cut.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fold each face of the pyramid towards the middle.\", \"描述\": \"Lay your cut-out shape flat on your work surface. Use your nondominant hand to brace the paper along each side of your square before folding each triangle towards the center. Use the pad of your finger to firmly press down along each fold. Continue until you've folded every side of your pyramid towards the center.\\nYou can fold each face so that it lays flat in the center before folding the next section if you want to get each side out of the way. This may make folding much easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Tape the edges of the pyramid's faces where they meet.\", \"描述\": \"Pull each folded edge out until each triangle is sitting flush against one another. Use clear tape to permanently join each edge together. Use long pieces of tape, and put each strip on the side of your triangles at the line where they meet one another before pressing lightly along the sides.\\nPress your tape down slowly and delicately. There's nothing but air inside your pyramid, and you don't want to crush it while you're taping it.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cover your pyramid with glue to add sand if you want to make it realistic.\", \"描述\": \"Place your pyramid in a small, plastic sandwich container or paper plate to catch the sand that you're going to pour over the pyramid. Use a paintbrush to apply white glue to each face of your pyramid. Spread it liberally across each visible surface until the entire structure is wet.\\nWhile you certainly want to cover each side of your pyramid, avoid using heavy globs of glue. You don't want to weigh your pyramid down and ruin the paper.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Sprinkle sand over the top of your pyramid.\", \"描述\": \"Slowly pour sand over the top of your pyramid, covering each side of the structure as you pour. Use a spoon to scoop sand that falls to the bottom of your container on top of the areas that are missing sand. Repeat this process until each section is fully covered. Wait 45-60 minutes for your pyramid to fully dry before handling it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Cardboard Pyramid\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Draw out 4 triangles of equal size on a piece of cardboard.\", \"描述\": \"Each triangle has to be exactly the same size to make a perfect pyramid. Measure your base first and then draw a line extending from the center. Use a ruler as a straight edge to draw connecting lines between the top of your center line and each end of the triangle's base.\\nTo make a medium-sized pyramid, make each triangle 8 inches (20 cm) wide and 12 inches (30 cm) tall from the center.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your triangles out with scissors or a utility knife.\", \"描述\": \"Place your cardboard on a stable work surface and hold it in your nondominant hand. Use your dominant hand to cut along each side of each triangle. Continue cutting until you have 4 triangles of equal sizes.\\nIf your cardboard is too thick to be cut with scissors, put a cutting board down and lay each piece of cardboard flat. Use a utility knife to cut each triangle out by dragging it through the cardboard along each section of your outline.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue 2 triangles together at the edge with a glue gun.\", \"描述\": \"Plug in a glue gun and set it down nearby to let the glue heat up. Use both hands to hold 2 triangles with their bases flat on the work surface and lean them together so that 2 of their edges meet. Use your nondominant hand to hold them together near the top as you grab your glue gun. Pull the trigger on the glue gun as you slide it along the edge where your 2 faces meet.\\nHold your 2 sides still for 45-60 seconds to give your glue time to initially dry. Set your 2 pieces aside and leave them for 10-20 minutes to let the glue fully set.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach your other 2 sides together and combine your pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Glue the other 2 sides together the same way and let them air dry. Once you have 2 pieces, arrange them in the center of your work surface so that each remaining edge is connecting. You should be looking at an unglued pyramid at this point. Use your glue gun to run hot glue along the 2 remaining edges and let it dry for 10-20 minutes.\\nAfter you put glue along the 2 remaining edges, lightly press your pieces together for 30-45 seconds to keep any gaps closed as it dries.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Draw and cut out a square base for your pyramid.\", \"描述\": \"You can draw your base out so that it fits perfectly around your pyramid by holding your glued triangles in place and using the base of each face as a straight edge. You can also choose to make a bigger base by measuring 4 lines of qual distance out from each side of the pyramid. Use a straight edge and a pencil to sketch your base and cut it out with scissors or a utility knife.\\nFor a medium-sized pyramid, a good base is 14 by 14 inches (36 by 36 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Draw vertical and horizontal lines with a permanent marker to make bricks.\", \"描述\": \"To make your pyramid look like it's made out of individual bricks, draw a series of parallel lines horizontally along each face of your pyramid with a black marker. The lines don't need to be perfectly straight if you want it to look natural, but you can choose to make them even with a straight edge if you'd like. Make vertical marks between each horizontal row every 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) to create the appearance of individual bricks.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Use a butter knife or popsicle stick to spread glue over each face.\", \"描述\": \"Drizzle white glue over your pyramid and use the flat side of a popsicle stick or butter knife to spread it around. Continue spreading the glue until you've covered most of the pyramid.\\nDon't forget about the base! Spread a lot of glue around your base so that the sand can fully cover it.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Sprinkle sand over your pyramid to make it look real.\", \"描述\": \"While the glue is still wet, pour sand all over your pyramid. Slowly pour your sand 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) above each section of your pyramid and let it collect at the base to give your pyramid a realistic look. Let it air dry for 1-2 hours before touching it.\\nIf you want more of the bricks that you drew to show through, you can scrape sections of your pyramid with your knife or popsicle stick to knock some of it off.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Creating a Step Pyramid with Sugar Cubes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Spread glue across the surface of a paper plate.\", \"描述\": \"Pour white glue on top of your plate. Use a paintbrush to spread it evenly over the surface where you want to build your pyramid. This will serve as the base, so make sure that each section has some glue on it.\\nYou can use a Styrofoam tray or wood surface as a base if you prefer.\\nYou'll need 140 cubes for a 7x7 pyramid.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place sugar cubes in a 7x7 square.\", \"描述\": \"Start with a corner of your pyramid. Place your first sugar cube in the glue and press down lightly to set it in place. Continue placing cubes next to it in both directions until you have 7 cubes on each side. Fill in the rest of the open space in your square with sugar cubes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drizzle glue in a 6x6 square on top of your first layer.\", \"描述\": \"Use the gaps between cubes to determine where a 6x6 layer will rest on top of the first layer. Pour glue in a square along the edges of your 6x6 outline and then fill in the middle of the square with glue. Put at least one dollop of glue on each interior square to ensure that the upper layer remains in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add your 6x6 layer of sugar cubes by putting them on top of the glue.\", \"描述\": \"With your glue still wet, begin to place cubes in a 6x6 row on top of your first layer. Line each cube up so that it rests directly on top of a cube underneath it. Do not press down on your cubes as you place them.\\nSave time by setting your layer out on a separate plate and transferring it over by pinching an entire row between two fingers.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Continue this process until you've completed a pyramid.\", \"描述\": \"Place additional layers on top of your pyramid by moving in 1 cube at a time for each layer. Your next layer will be 5x5, then 4x4, and so on. Add a new layer of glue each time that you add a layer.\\nDo not leave cubes out of the middle of a layer or you'll risk breaking your pyramid.\\nYou can use glue and glitter, sand, or paint to cover your cube if you'd like.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,439 |
How to Build a Model Railroad
|
1. Planning Your Model Railroad
1-1. Assess the givens and druthers.
The phrase "givens and druthers" comes from accomplished railroad modeler, John Allen. It refers to the things that can't be changed when making your model, like the size or your room, budget, and so on.
Make a list of these things on a piece of paper or a digital document to help keep these limitations in mind.
Use an online document service, like a cloud based one or Google Docs, so you can check your planning elements easily with a phone or tablet.
1-2. Choose your theme.
The theme of your railroad includes its purpose, setting, the type of trains or equipment you want to use, and the service the train will provide (like transporting industrial goods or logs). These aspects will influence your planning and how you actually build your layout.
A long coal train, for example, might run through the mountains and carry coal from mines to power companies, steel mills, or residential areas, to provide heat for homes.
Locale should also be taken into consideration. Locale includes things like region (East or West Coast, Mountain, etc.), specific towns, or general areas, like the plains of Kansas.
The era in which your model train exists will also need to be decided. A model planned for the 1920s would use a steam engine. You won't have modern cars either, in this era.
The season you set your model in will change setting drastically. Fall will need to have trees with leaves changing color, winter will need snow, and so on.
1-3. Determine the scale of your railroad.
Grid paper is great for drawing out a to-scale design of your railroad. One of the simplest scales you can use is a 1-inch to 1-foot (2.5-cm to .3-m) ratio, where a 1-inch (2.5-cm) square on your grid paper equals 1 foot (0.30 m) (.3 m) in real life. When planning scale, keep in mind:
The space available for your model.
The amount of money you can invest in your model railroad. Larger models will be more expensive.
The focus of your model. Scenery focused models will be much different from train focused ones.
Your personal limitations. If you don't have good eyes or nimble fingers, smaller models might be unreasonable.
1-4. Identify the kind of display you intend.
Display in railroad modeling refers to how you show off your model. You can arrange ceiling lights to point down on it, direct lighting to it from floor lamps, and so on. Should you be building your model for your own enjoyment, you might not want to devote a lot of time and money to display.
Railroad models built for children and grandchildren might only require a limited display. Adjust your display needs with the purpose of your railroad.
If you intend on adding to your railroad and make it part of a larger design, keep this in mind while planning your display.
1-5. Plan your track.
There are many different styles you might use for your railroad track. Some common track designs include a simple oval, a figure eight pattern, and a barbell shape. You should have an overall idea for the plan of your track before drafting your track plan.
When first starting out, you'll likely want to keep your train level to minimize more complicated aspects of planning, like grade (steepness) and clearances.
1-6. Draft the track plan for your railroad.
If this is your first time building a model railroad, you may want to use a prototype track plan. These are provided by companies and take a lot of the guesswork out of your track planning. Prototype track plans can also be used as an example from which you make your own design and can be purchased online or at hobby shops.
Use grid paper when drawing up your track plan. Keep your track plan to scale with your real model so you don't have to make adjustments later on.
You may find that some track plans that you thought would work in reality do not. This is not uncommon, but a prototype track plan will help prevent this.
2. Building the Foundation
2-1. Put together your benchwork.
The bench is the surface on which your landscape will be made and your track laid. Model benchwork consists for three parts: the supporting structure, a platform or grid, and a sub-roadbed.
Your supporting structure is a sturdy, reinforced frame on which your platform and sub roadbed sit upon.
The platform forms the base of your model. This sits on the supporting structure or is attached to it, and the subroadbed is laid on top of it.
The subroadbed is the topmost part of your benchwork. This is where your model layout will be built. Use 3 to 4 sheets of extruded foam on top of your platform to make the subroadbed.
Your benchwork could be as simple as a 4x8 piece of plywood or 3x6 ft (.91x1.8 m) door on top of a folding table or old wooden table. Lay your subroadbed on top, and the benchwork will be done.
2-2. Create a backdrop, if desired.
Your backdrop doesn't have to be a work of art. A blue wall in the background can give the impression of a blue sky backdrop. You could also paint a mural or buy/print a pre-made backdrop.
Make sure your backdrop is consistent with your theme choices. Failing to do so can make your model look less realistic.
For a city nighttime scene, you might have a mostly dark backdrop with the silhouettes of skyscrapers on it.
If you're planning on making a model in a mountainous setting, you might have larger peaks drawn on a backdrop of blue sky.
2-3. Plot out your track on the benchwork.
This can be done either by drawing out your track plan on your benchwork or by laying loose tracks on it. Once your track is drawn or laid out, sketch out where you'll be placing surface features, like mountains, rivers, roads, buildings, and so on.
Although a sketch on the benchwork of structure placement should be sufficient, making simple cardboard mockups can help prevent planned structures from getting in the way of your track.
2-4. Complete the terrain.
The terrain is the contoured surface of your model that represents the ground. This is usually made by shaping chicken wire or screen material to fit your vision for shape of the terrain. Cover this with wet plaster cloth, allow it to dry, then paint the exterior.
Plaster cloth can be found at hobby shops and may even be available at hardware stores. If you lack plaster cloth, use paper towels soaked in plaster.
There are many unique ways of creating the terrain of your model. You can cover mounds of wadded up newspaper in plaster cloth, use foam sheeting similarly, and utilize many other techniques.
3. Finishing the Model
3-1. Lay the track.
You may have to build up your track a little on curves, as these will be likely places your train can derail. S-curves especially, if you have them, can be tricky. Make sure you have enough clearance in your curves to fit your longest train cars. Cork or foam model train roadbed should be used under tracks and can be bought at hobby or hardware stores.
If you're just starting out modeling, it can be difficult to know if you have enough clearance for long cars. Before installing your track, use your hands to guide your train around curves to see if it fits.
Track installation may vary, but in many cases, you'll need to solder rail joints to connect them. Avoid soldering turnouts, where a train transfers from one line of track to another. These often need to be replaced.
Use a metal file to smooth bumps or ridges on your track that may cause a wheel to jump the tracks or get stuck.
3-2. Wire your track.
Attach feeder wires as indicated by your model set. In most cases, feeder wires will connect to the bottom or outside of your track rails at 3-foot (.91 m) intervals. A beginner set will likely come with a power converter, but more advanced sets may requires you to choose between DC (Direct Current) and DCC (Digital Command Control) power.
Starter model train sets will likely come with a control panel, but DIY models may require you to build one. Search online for tutorials on how to wire one that is simple and organized.
3-3. Add the scenery.
This includes almost all surface features, like trees, rocks, tunnels bushes, roads, bridges, houses, and so on. Use glue to attach scenery pieces after the terrain is formed. Use paint to represent flat surface features, like rivers and roads.
Keep perspective in mind when making your scenery. For example, large trees should go in the foreground and small ones in the background to create the illusion of distance.
Dioramas are a 3D representation of a scene, like a house. These are great additions and can add a sense of realism to your model.
You can buy scenery props at most hobby shops and craft stores. There are also plenty of resources online that illustrate how to make your own.
Tips
If you know someone who already has a layout, it might be helpful to ask if you can have a look at it to give you a better understanding of its construction when it comes to making your own.
Crowdsource ideas and pick the brains of more experiences modelers at local hobby shops or model train clubs.
Planning details, like your givens and druthers, themes, supply lists, and so on, might be best suited to an online document service, like a cloud one or Google Docs. Using these services will make your planning details more accessible. You can even access these docs with your phone.
Warnings
Always use care when operating tools, especially a solder gun which gets very hot. Failing to use these properly could result in injury or damage to your home.
Be careful when wiring your set and hooking up power to it. Poor wiring can result in you getting shocked or it could result in an electrical fire.
Model railroading can be an expensive hobby. Carefully planning can help prevent unexpected costs from cropping up.
If you are under 10 years of age, ask an adult to help you in constructing your model.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:50",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Model Railroad\\n1-1. Assess the givens and druthers.\\nThe phrase \\\"givens and druthers\\\" comes from accomplished railroad modeler, John Allen. It refers to the things that can't be changed when making your model, like the size or your room, budget, and so on.\\nMake a list of these things on a piece of paper or a digital document to help keep these limitations in mind.\\nUse an online document service, like a cloud based one or Google Docs, so you can check your planning elements easily with a phone or tablet.\\n1-2. Choose your theme.\\nThe theme of your railroad includes its purpose, setting, the type of trains or equipment you want to use, and the service the train will provide (like transporting industrial goods or logs). These aspects will influence your planning and how you actually build your layout.\\nA long coal train, for example, might run through the mountains and carry coal from mines to power companies, steel mills, or residential areas, to provide heat for homes.\\nLocale should also be taken into consideration. Locale includes things like region (East or West Coast, Mountain, etc.), specific towns, or general areas, like the plains of Kansas.\\nThe era in which your model train exists will also need to be decided. A model planned for the 1920s would use a steam engine. You won't have modern cars either, in this era.\\nThe season you set your model in will change setting drastically. Fall will need to have trees with leaves changing color, winter will need snow, and so on.\\n1-3. Determine the scale of your railroad.\\nGrid paper is great for drawing out a to-scale design of your railroad. One of the simplest scales you can use is a 1-inch to 1-foot (2.5-cm to .3-m) ratio, where a 1-inch (2.5-cm) square on your grid paper equals 1 foot (0.30 m) (.3 m) in real life. When planning scale, keep in mind:\\nThe space available for your model.\\nThe amount of money you can invest in your model railroad. Larger models will be more expensive.\\nThe focus of your model. Scenery focused models will be much different from train focused ones.\\nYour personal limitations. If you don't have good eyes or nimble fingers, smaller models might be unreasonable.\\n1-4. Identify the kind of display you intend.\\nDisplay in railroad modeling refers to how you show off your model. You can arrange ceiling lights to point down on it, direct lighting to it from floor lamps, and so on. Should you be building your model for your own enjoyment, you might not want to devote a lot of time and money to display.\\nRailroad models built for children and grandchildren might only require a limited display. Adjust your display needs with the purpose of your railroad.\\nIf you intend on adding to your railroad and make it part of a larger design, keep this in mind while planning your display.\\n1-5. Plan your track.\\nThere are many different styles you might use for your railroad track. Some common track designs include a simple oval, a figure eight pattern, and a barbell shape. You should have an overall idea for the plan of your track before drafting your track plan.\\nWhen first starting out, you'll likely want to keep your train level to minimize more complicated aspects of planning, like grade (steepness) and clearances.\\n1-6. Draft the track plan for your railroad.\\nIf this is your first time building a model railroad, you may want to use a prototype track plan. These are provided by companies and take a lot of the guesswork out of your track planning. Prototype track plans can also be used as an example from which you make your own design and can be purchased online or at hobby shops.\\nUse grid paper when drawing up your track plan. Keep your track plan to scale with your real model so you don't have to make adjustments later on.\\nYou may find that some track plans that you thought would work in reality do not. This is not uncommon, but a prototype track plan will help prevent this.\\n2. Building the Foundation\\n2-1. Put together your benchwork.\\nThe bench is the surface on which your landscape will be made and your track laid. Model benchwork consists for three parts: the supporting structure, a platform or grid, and a sub-roadbed.\\nYour supporting structure is a sturdy, reinforced frame on which your platform and sub roadbed sit upon.\\nThe platform forms the base of your model. This sits on the supporting structure or is attached to it, and the subroadbed is laid on top of it.\\nThe subroadbed is the topmost part of your benchwork. This is where your model layout will be built. Use 3 to 4 sheets of extruded foam on top of your platform to make the subroadbed.\\nYour benchwork could be as simple as a 4x8 piece of plywood or 3x6 ft (.91x1.8 m) door on top of a folding table or old wooden table. Lay your subroadbed on top, and the benchwork will be done.\\n2-2. Create a backdrop, if desired.\\nYour backdrop doesn't have to be a work of art. A blue wall in the background can give the impression of a blue sky backdrop. You could also paint a mural or buy/print a pre-made backdrop.\\nMake sure your backdrop is consistent with your theme choices. Failing to do so can make your model look less realistic.\\nFor a city nighttime scene, you might have a mostly dark backdrop with the silhouettes of skyscrapers on it.\\nIf you're planning on making a model in a mountainous setting, you might have larger peaks drawn on a backdrop of blue sky.\\n2-3. Plot out your track on the benchwork.\\nThis can be done either by drawing out your track plan on your benchwork or by laying loose tracks on it. Once your track is drawn or laid out, sketch out where you'll be placing surface features, like mountains, rivers, roads, buildings, and so on.\\nAlthough a sketch on the benchwork of structure placement should be sufficient, making simple cardboard mockups can help prevent planned structures from getting in the way of your track.\\n2-4. Complete the terrain.\\nThe terrain is the contoured surface of your model that represents the ground. This is usually made by shaping chicken wire or screen material to fit your vision for shape of the terrain. Cover this with wet plaster cloth, allow it to dry, then paint the exterior.\\nPlaster cloth can be found at hobby shops and may even be available at hardware stores. If you lack plaster cloth, use paper towels soaked in plaster.\\nThere are many unique ways of creating the terrain of your model. You can cover mounds of wadded up newspaper in plaster cloth, use foam sheeting similarly, and utilize many other techniques.\\n3. Finishing the Model\\n3-1. Lay the track.\\nYou may have to build up your track a little on curves, as these will be likely places your train can derail. S-curves especially, if you have them, can be tricky. Make sure you have enough clearance in your curves to fit your longest train cars. Cork or foam model train roadbed should be used under tracks and can be bought at hobby or hardware stores.\\nIf you're just starting out modeling, it can be difficult to know if you have enough clearance for long cars. Before installing your track, use your hands to guide your train around curves to see if it fits.\\nTrack installation may vary, but in many cases, you'll need to solder rail joints to connect them. Avoid soldering turnouts, where a train transfers from one line of track to another. These often need to be replaced.\\nUse a metal file to smooth bumps or ridges on your track that may cause a wheel to jump the tracks or get stuck.\\n3-2. Wire your track.\\nAttach feeder wires as indicated by your model set. In most cases, feeder wires will connect to the bottom or outside of your track rails at 3-foot (.91 m) intervals. A beginner set will likely come with a power converter, but more advanced sets may requires you to choose between DC (Direct Current) and DCC (Digital Command Control) power.\\nStarter model train sets will likely come with a control panel, but DIY models may require you to build one. Search online for tutorials on how to wire one that is simple and organized.\\n3-3. Add the scenery.\\nThis includes almost all surface features, like trees, rocks, tunnels bushes, roads, bridges, houses, and so on. Use glue to attach scenery pieces after the terrain is formed. Use paint to represent flat surface features, like rivers and roads.\\nKeep perspective in mind when making your scenery. For example, large trees should go in the foreground and small ones in the background to create the illusion of distance.\\nDioramas are a 3D representation of a scene, like a house. These are great additions and can add a sense of realism to your model.\\nYou can buy scenery props at most hobby shops and craft stores. There are also plenty of resources online that illustrate how to make your own.\\nTips\\nIf you know someone who already has a layout, it might be helpful to ask if you can have a look at it to give you a better understanding of its construction when it comes to making your own.\\nCrowdsource ideas and pick the brains of more experiences modelers at local hobby shops or model train clubs.\\nPlanning details, like your givens and druthers, themes, supply lists, and so on, might be best suited to an online document service, like a cloud one or Google Docs. Using these services will make your planning details more accessible. You can even access these docs with your phone.\\nWarnings\\nAlways use care when operating tools, especially a solder gun which gets very hot. Failing to use these properly could result in injury or damage to your home.\\nBe careful when wiring your set and hooking up power to it. Poor wiring can result in you getting shocked or it could result in an electrical fire.\\nModel railroading can be an expensive hobby. Carefully planning can help prevent unexpected costs from cropping up.\\nIf you are under 10 years of age, ask an adult to help you in constructing your model.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a model railroad is like creating your own miniature empire. You'll have complete control over the features, enabling you to construct a modern design, a western design, or even one with fantastical elements. Building a railroad involves many skills and will develop your handiness doing things like mechanical and civil engineering, carpentry, electrical wiring, artistry, and more. You'll need to start with a plan to ensure the best results, but once you have one, you can build the foundation and finish your railroad by laying the track and wiring it so it can run.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Model Railroad\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assess the givens and druthers.\", \"描述\": \"The phrase \\\"givens and druthers\\\" comes from accomplished railroad modeler, John Allen. It refers to the things that can't be changed when making your model, like the size or your room, budget, and so on.\\nMake a list of these things on a piece of paper or a digital document to help keep these limitations in mind.\\nUse an online document service, like a cloud based one or Google Docs, so you can check your planning elements easily with a phone or tablet.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your theme.\", \"描述\": \"The theme of your railroad includes its purpose, setting, the type of trains or equipment you want to use, and the service the train will provide (like transporting industrial goods or logs). These aspects will influence your planning and how you actually build your layout.\\nA long coal train, for example, might run through the mountains and carry coal from mines to power companies, steel mills, or residential areas, to provide heat for homes.\\nLocale should also be taken into consideration. Locale includes things like region (East or West Coast, Mountain, etc.), specific towns, or general areas, like the plains of Kansas.\\nThe era in which your model train exists will also need to be decided. A model planned for the 1920s would use a steam engine. You won't have modern cars either, in this era.\\nThe season you set your model in will change setting drastically. Fall will need to have trees with leaves changing color, winter will need snow, and so on.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Determine the scale of your railroad.\", \"描述\": \"Grid paper is great for drawing out a to-scale design of your railroad. One of the simplest scales you can use is a 1-inch to 1-foot (2.5-cm to .3-m) ratio, where a 1-inch (2.5-cm) square on your grid paper equals 1 foot (0.30 m) (.3 m) in real life. When planning scale, keep in mind:\\nThe space available for your model.\\nThe amount of money you can invest in your model railroad. Larger models will be more expensive.\\nThe focus of your model. Scenery focused models will be much different from train focused ones.\\nYour personal limitations. If you don't have good eyes or nimble fingers, smaller models might be unreasonable.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Identify the kind of display you intend.\", \"描述\": \"Display in railroad modeling refers to how you show off your model. You can arrange ceiling lights to point down on it, direct lighting to it from floor lamps, and so on. Should you be building your model for your own enjoyment, you might not want to devote a lot of time and money to display.\\nRailroad models built for children and grandchildren might only require a limited display. Adjust your display needs with the purpose of your railroad.\\nIf you intend on adding to your railroad and make it part of a larger design, keep this in mind while planning your display.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Plan your track.\", \"描述\": \"There are many different styles you might use for your railroad track. Some common track designs include a simple oval, a figure eight pattern, and a barbell shape. You should have an overall idea for the plan of your track before drafting your track plan.\\nWhen first starting out, you'll likely want to keep your train level to minimize more complicated aspects of planning, like grade (steepness) and clearances.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Draft the track plan for your railroad.\", \"描述\": \"If this is your first time building a model railroad, you may want to use a prototype track plan. These are provided by companies and take a lot of the guesswork out of your track planning. Prototype track plans can also be used as an example from which you make your own design and can be purchased online or at hobby shops.\\nUse grid paper when drawing up your track plan. Keep your track plan to scale with your real model so you don't have to make adjustments later on.\\nYou may find that some track plans that you thought would work in reality do not. This is not uncommon, but a prototype track plan will help prevent this.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Foundation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put together your benchwork.\", \"描述\": \"The bench is the surface on which your landscape will be made and your track laid. Model benchwork consists for three parts: the supporting structure, a platform or grid, and a sub-roadbed.\\nYour supporting structure is a sturdy, reinforced frame on which your platform and sub roadbed sit upon.\\nThe platform forms the base of your model. This sits on the supporting structure or is attached to it, and the subroadbed is laid on top of it.\\nThe subroadbed is the topmost part of your benchwork. This is where your model layout will be built. Use 3 to 4 sheets of extruded foam on top of your platform to make the subroadbed.\\nYour benchwork could be as simple as a 4x8 piece of plywood or 3x6 ft (.91x1.8 m) door on top of a folding table or old wooden table. Lay your subroadbed on top, and the benchwork will be done.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a backdrop, if desired.\", \"描述\": \"Your backdrop doesn't have to be a work of art. A blue wall in the background can give the impression of a blue sky backdrop. You could also paint a mural or buy/print a pre-made backdrop.\\nMake sure your backdrop is consistent with your theme choices. Failing to do so can make your model look less realistic.\\nFor a city nighttime scene, you might have a mostly dark backdrop with the silhouettes of skyscrapers on it.\\nIf you're planning on making a model in a mountainous setting, you might have larger peaks drawn on a backdrop of blue sky.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plot out your track on the benchwork.\", \"描述\": \"This can be done either by drawing out your track plan on your benchwork or by laying loose tracks on it. Once your track is drawn or laid out, sketch out where you'll be placing surface features, like mountains, rivers, roads, buildings, and so on.\\nAlthough a sketch on the benchwork of structure placement should be sufficient, making simple cardboard mockups can help prevent planned structures from getting in the way of your track.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Complete the terrain.\", \"描述\": \"The terrain is the contoured surface of your model that represents the ground. This is usually made by shaping chicken wire or screen material to fit your vision for shape of the terrain. Cover this with wet plaster cloth, allow it to dry, then paint the exterior.\\nPlaster cloth can be found at hobby shops and may even be available at hardware stores. If you lack plaster cloth, use paper towels soaked in plaster.\\nThere are many unique ways of creating the terrain of your model. You can cover mounds of wadded up newspaper in plaster cloth, use foam sheeting similarly, and utilize many other techniques.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Model\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay the track.\", \"描述\": \"You may have to build up your track a little on curves, as these will be likely places your train can derail. S-curves especially, if you have them, can be tricky. Make sure you have enough clearance in your curves to fit your longest train cars. Cork or foam model train roadbed should be used under tracks and can be bought at hobby or hardware stores.\\nIf you're just starting out modeling, it can be difficult to know if you have enough clearance for long cars. Before installing your track, use your hands to guide your train around curves to see if it fits.\\nTrack installation may vary, but in many cases, you'll need to solder rail joints to connect them. Avoid soldering turnouts, where a train transfers from one line of track to another. These often need to be replaced.\\nUse a metal file to smooth bumps or ridges on your track that may cause a wheel to jump the tracks or get stuck.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wire your track.\", \"描述\": \"Attach feeder wires as indicated by your model set. In most cases, feeder wires will connect to the bottom or outside of your track rails at 3-foot (.91 m) intervals. A beginner set will likely come with a power converter, but more advanced sets may requires you to choose between DC (Direct Current) and DCC (Digital Command Control) power.\\nStarter model train sets will likely come with a control panel, but DIY models may require you to build one. Search online for tutorials on how to wire one that is simple and organized.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add the scenery.\", \"描述\": \"This includes almost all surface features, like trees, rocks, tunnels bushes, roads, bridges, houses, and so on. Use glue to attach scenery pieces after the terrain is formed. Use paint to represent flat surface features, like rivers and roads.\\nKeep perspective in mind when making your scenery. For example, large trees should go in the foreground and small ones in the background to create the illusion of distance.\\nDioramas are a 3D representation of a scene, like a house. These are great additions and can add a sense of realism to your model.\\nYou can buy scenery props at most hobby shops and craft stores. There are also plenty of resources online that illustrate how to make your own.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you know someone who already has a layout, it might be helpful to ask if you can have a look at it to give you a better understanding of its construction when it comes to making your own.\\n\", \"Crowdsource ideas and pick the brains of more experiences modelers at local hobby shops or model train clubs.\\n\", \"Planning details, like your givens and druthers, themes, supply lists, and so on, might be best suited to an online document service, like a cloud one or Google Docs. Using these services will make your planning details more accessible. You can even access these docs with your phone.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always use care when operating tools, especially a solder gun which gets very hot. Failing to use these properly could result in injury or damage to your home.\\n\", \"Be careful when wiring your set and hooking up power to it. Poor wiring can result in you getting shocked or it could result in an electrical fire.\\n\", \"Model railroading can be an expensive hobby. Carefully planning can help prevent unexpected costs from cropping up.\\n\", \"If you are under 10 years of age, ask an adult to help you in constructing your model.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,440 |
How to Build a Model Ship
|
1. Buying a Model Boat Kit
1-1. Look for a model to purchase.
There are many different models, styles and types of model boat kits available for purchase. If you are new to model boat building, you should spend some time finding a model ship kit that interests you. Purchasing a kit is one of the easiest ways for beginners to get into the hobby. Have fun and find a model that you want to build to get started.
Your local hobby shops will likely have model boat kits available to buy.
Many on-line hobby shops can send a model boat kit to your home.
There are many different model boat kit styles that you can buy. Many of these will have a differing levels of difficulty and challenge.
If this is your first time building a model boat, try to select a simple model for beginners.
Do some research on the type of boat you are building to help you get an idea of what it will look like when finished.
1-2. Buy the necessary tools.
Most model boat kits will require you to purchase some basic tools. These tools will help you to assemble the model and will make sure it goes together correctly. Check the model's tool requirements and purchase any additional tools that may be necessary.
You will likely want a wood plane or sandpaper.
Small pliers can help when assembling the model.
You may find a complete ship model tool kit that will provide everything you need to get started.
1-3. Follow the model boat kit's instructions and assemble your model.
Although many model boats will require you to take similar steps when assembling the model, your kit will come with its own specific instructions. Always follow the instructions for your model boat exactly to help ensure your model is built correctly and looks great when finished.
Each model boat will have its own instructions.
Always consult your instruction manual every step.
2. Building the Body of a Model Ship
2-1. Open the box and lay out your parts.
Once you have your model boat kit, you'll want to open it up and examine its contents. You should have all the parts and instructions necessary to assemble your boat. However, you'll want to make sure you actually have everything. Laying the pieces out can be a good way to notice if anything is missing or damaged.
Make sure all the parts are accounted for.
Make sure none of the parts are damaged.
Find your instructions manual and review it.
You may need additional tools or materials. Check your instructions to see if you need to buy anything else before getting started.
2-2. Build the frame.
Once you've confirmed that you have all the materials and tools you will need to construct your boat, you can get started buy building the frame. The frame of the boat will allow you to add planks, forming the actual body of the model boat. Remember to always consult your model's instructions to properly construct your model boat. Review these tips to help give you an understanding of what you can expect when building your model boat's frame:
Slide the bulkhead frames into the keel. The keel will be the long piece of the frame, running the length of the boat. The bulkheads will slide into slots found on the keel. Bulkheads will help shape the planks of your boat when it's time to apply them.
Once you're sure everything fits, you can glue the bulkhead frames into the keel.
Make sure everything is level and flat on the top of the frame. If any bulkheads or areas of the keel are higher than others, use sandpaper to level them off.
2-3. Level the bulkhead frames.
A very important part of assembling your model boat will be to make sure the planks lay evenly over the bulkheads. If the planks aren't able to touch each bulkhead and lay flat, your boat may not be correctly assembled. Use these steps to see how flat the planks will fit across the bulkheads, ensuring that your model boat will be assembled correctly:
Place a plank over the bulkheads.
If there is a space where the plank doesn't touch a bulkhead, sand the bulkheads down until the plank rests flatly against each bulkhead.
Take your time and make sure each plank will lay flatly against the bulkheads.
Make sure to test both sides of the bulkheads.
If you sand one area down too much, you can add tiny slivers of wood later on to level off the plank.
2-4. Add the first planks.
Once you are sure the planks will lay flatly against the bulkheads, you can begin affixing them. Adding planks will create the hull of your model boat. The first plank you place will determine how each other plank is affixed, so take your time and apply it properly, according to your model's instructions.
You will likely place the first plank at deck level.
Planks run the length of the boat, from fore to aft.
Each plank will be glued to the bulkheads that it is meant to touch.
Check your model's instructions to learn where you should place your first plank.
Add planks in pairs to ensure they are even and level with one another. Your first planks should mirror images of one another.
Soaking planks in water can help them become more flexible.
2-5. Keep building the hull by adding planks.
Now that you have your first few planks in place, you can begin adding the remaining planks to build the hull. These planks will need to fit tightly together, filling in any gaps between them. When you are finished, there should be no gaps between any planks, fully encapsulating the bulkheads and creating the hull.
If there are any gaps, you can use wood filler or small pieces of wood to fill them in.
Your model may have you add additional layers of planking. Follow your model's unique instructions when adding planks to ensure the best results.
Additional layers of planking are often decorative.
You may need to taper some planks to close up gaps.
2-6. Sand the hull.
After you've added all the necessary planks to form the hull, you can begin sanding the hull. Planks may have been slightly uneven in some places, giving your hull a lumpy or rough look. By sanding the hull, you can give your model boat a smooth and streamlined look. Take your time and work carefully to sand away any rough, unleveled, or bumpy areas of the hull.
Your model boat's hull should look completely smooth after sanding it.
Each plank will look like it was naturally blended or attached to the next.
No one plank should stick out further than another.
2-7. Add the deck.
Now that the the hull has been sanded you can add in the deck. Adding the deck will complete the main body of your model boat. You will likely need to glue the model deck to the top of your bulkheads, keel, and deck level planks. After you've affixed the deck, you can move on to adding details, painting, and finishing your model boat.
Double check your model before adding any finishing touches.
You may need to use wood filler or small pieces of wood to make the deck piece lay level.
Take a moment to sand down any rough areas that you might notice.
Your model will likely have specific instructions for attaching the deck piece. Always check your instructions to make sure your model will be successfully completed.
3. Finishing the Model Boat
3-1. Paint or seal the hull and deck of the model.
Now that you've fully assembled the hull and deck of the boat, you can begin to apply paint, stains, or other sealants. This can help give your model the finished look that the real boat would have. Check your model's instructions for exact details on which kind of finish to apply and how to apply it.
Most wooden model boats will require some kind of wood stain and sealant to protect the wood.
Some models can be decoratively painted to look like their real life counter parts.
Matte or stain polyurethane finishes can be a great addition to your model boat.
3-2. Add details.
Once the majority of your model boat has been painted, you can begin adding details. These small pieces can help add a level of realism to your boat, making the model look and feel completed. Your model kit will likely include all the necessary pieces to add. Follow the instructions in your kit to learn exactly where and how to place the detail pieces to your model. As an example, you may want to add elements like these to give your boat an authentic feel:
Sails.
Masts.
Figurehead.
The boat's wheel.
Rigging.
Cannons.
Quarterdeck.
3-3. Finish your model and display it.
Before you complete your model, it's a good idea to give it one final check. Make sure everything is painted to your liking, that you've added all the detail items, and that you are satisfied with the way it looks in general. If there is something missing, feel free to go back and fix whatever it is you've noticed. After you've checked your model boat over, you can proudly display your hard work.
You can buy model boat displays at many hobby stores.
You shouldn't have any leftover parts from your model. If you do, try to figure out where it was supposed to go and add it if possible.
Be careful with your finished model boat as it will be fragile.
TIPS
You could also try buying a plastic kit. Most plastic kits come with pre-made sections that can be snapped or glued together easily. [16]
X
Research source
Don't be in a rush to assemble your model boat. Take your time with each step to make sure everything is correct.
All models will have their own instructions. Try to follow these as closely as you can to ensure great results.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:50",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Buying a Model Boat Kit\\n1-1. Look for a model to purchase.\\nThere are many different models, styles and types of model boat kits available for purchase. If you are new to model boat building, you should spend some time finding a model ship kit that interests you. Purchasing a kit is one of the easiest ways for beginners to get into the hobby. Have fun and find a model that you want to build to get started.\\nYour local hobby shops will likely have model boat kits available to buy.\\nMany on-line hobby shops can send a model boat kit to your home.\\nThere are many different model boat kit styles that you can buy. Many of these will have a differing levels of difficulty and challenge.\\nIf this is your first time building a model boat, try to select a simple model for beginners.\\nDo some research on the type of boat you are building to help you get an idea of what it will look like when finished.\\n1-2. Buy the necessary tools.\\nMost model boat kits will require you to purchase some basic tools. These tools will help you to assemble the model and will make sure it goes together correctly. Check the model's tool requirements and purchase any additional tools that may be necessary.\\nYou will likely want a wood plane or sandpaper.\\nSmall pliers can help when assembling the model.\\nYou may find a complete ship model tool kit that will provide everything you need to get started.\\n1-3. Follow the model boat kit's instructions and assemble your model.\\nAlthough many model boats will require you to take similar steps when assembling the model, your kit will come with its own specific instructions. Always follow the instructions for your model boat exactly to help ensure your model is built correctly and looks great when finished.\\nEach model boat will have its own instructions.\\nAlways consult your instruction manual every step.\\n2. Building the Body of a Model Ship\\n2-1. Open the box and lay out your parts.\\nOnce you have your model boat kit, you'll want to open it up and examine its contents. You should have all the parts and instructions necessary to assemble your boat. However, you'll want to make sure you actually have everything. Laying the pieces out can be a good way to notice if anything is missing or damaged.\\nMake sure all the parts are accounted for.\\nMake sure none of the parts are damaged.\\nFind your instructions manual and review it.\\nYou may need additional tools or materials. Check your instructions to see if you need to buy anything else before getting started.\\n2-2. Build the frame.\\nOnce you've confirmed that you have all the materials and tools you will need to construct your boat, you can get started buy building the frame. The frame of the boat will allow you to add planks, forming the actual body of the model boat. Remember to always consult your model's instructions to properly construct your model boat. Review these tips to help give you an understanding of what you can expect when building your model boat's frame:\\nSlide the bulkhead frames into the keel. The keel will be the long piece of the frame, running the length of the boat. The bulkheads will slide into slots found on the keel. Bulkheads will help shape the planks of your boat when it's time to apply them.\\nOnce you're sure everything fits, you can glue the bulkhead frames into the keel.\\nMake sure everything is level and flat on the top of the frame. If any bulkheads or areas of the keel are higher than others, use sandpaper to level them off.\\n2-3. Level the bulkhead frames.\\nA very important part of assembling your model boat will be to make sure the planks lay evenly over the bulkheads. If the planks aren't able to touch each bulkhead and lay flat, your boat may not be correctly assembled. Use these steps to see how flat the planks will fit across the bulkheads, ensuring that your model boat will be assembled correctly:\\nPlace a plank over the bulkheads.\\nIf there is a space where the plank doesn't touch a bulkhead, sand the bulkheads down until the plank rests flatly against each bulkhead.\\nTake your time and make sure each plank will lay flatly against the bulkheads.\\nMake sure to test both sides of the bulkheads.\\nIf you sand one area down too much, you can add tiny slivers of wood later on to level off the plank.\\n2-4. Add the first planks.\\nOnce you are sure the planks will lay flatly against the bulkheads, you can begin affixing them. Adding planks will create the hull of your model boat. The first plank you place will determine how each other plank is affixed, so take your time and apply it properly, according to your model's instructions.\\nYou will likely place the first plank at deck level.\\nPlanks run the length of the boat, from fore to aft.\\nEach plank will be glued to the bulkheads that it is meant to touch.\\nCheck your model's instructions to learn where you should place your first plank.\\nAdd planks in pairs to ensure they are even and level with one another. Your first planks should mirror images of one another.\\nSoaking planks in water can help them become more flexible.\\n2-5. Keep building the hull by adding planks.\\nNow that you have your first few planks in place, you can begin adding the remaining planks to build the hull. These planks will need to fit tightly together, filling in any gaps between them. When you are finished, there should be no gaps between any planks, fully encapsulating the bulkheads and creating the hull.\\nIf there are any gaps, you can use wood filler or small pieces of wood to fill them in.\\nYour model may have you add additional layers of planking. Follow your model's unique instructions when adding planks to ensure the best results.\\nAdditional layers of planking are often decorative.\\nYou may need to taper some planks to close up gaps.\\n2-6. Sand the hull.\\nAfter you've added all the necessary planks to form the hull, you can begin sanding the hull. Planks may have been slightly uneven in some places, giving your hull a lumpy or rough look. By sanding the hull, you can give your model boat a smooth and streamlined look. Take your time and work carefully to sand away any rough, unleveled, or bumpy areas of the hull.\\nYour model boat's hull should look completely smooth after sanding it.\\nEach plank will look like it was naturally blended or attached to the next.\\nNo one plank should stick out further than another.\\n2-7. Add the deck.\\nNow that the the hull has been sanded you can add in the deck. Adding the deck will complete the main body of your model boat. You will likely need to glue the model deck to the top of your bulkheads, keel, and deck level planks. After you've affixed the deck, you can move on to adding details, painting, and finishing your model boat.\\nDouble check your model before adding any finishing touches.\\nYou may need to use wood filler or small pieces of wood to make the deck piece lay level.\\nTake a moment to sand down any rough areas that you might notice.\\nYour model will likely have specific instructions for attaching the deck piece. Always check your instructions to make sure your model will be successfully completed.\\n3. Finishing the Model Boat\\n3-1. Paint or seal the hull and deck of the model.\\nNow that you've fully assembled the hull and deck of the boat, you can begin to apply paint, stains, or other sealants. This can help give your model the finished look that the real boat would have. Check your model's instructions for exact details on which kind of finish to apply and how to apply it.\\nMost wooden model boats will require some kind of wood stain and sealant to protect the wood.\\nSome models can be decoratively painted to look like their real life counter parts.\\nMatte or stain polyurethane finishes can be a great addition to your model boat.\\n3-2. Add details.\\nOnce the majority of your model boat has been painted, you can begin adding details. These small pieces can help add a level of realism to your boat, making the model look and feel completed. Your model kit will likely include all the necessary pieces to add. Follow the instructions in your kit to learn exactly where and how to place the detail pieces to your model. As an example, you may want to add elements like these to give your boat an authentic feel:\\nSails.\\nMasts.\\nFigurehead.\\nThe boat's wheel.\\nRigging.\\nCannons.\\nQuarterdeck.\\n3-3. Finish your model and display it.\\nBefore you complete your model, it's a good idea to give it one final check. Make sure everything is painted to your liking, that you've added all the detail items, and that you are satisfied with the way it looks in general. If there is something missing, feel free to go back and fix whatever it is you've noticed. After you've checked your model boat over, you can proudly display your hard work.\\nYou can buy model boat displays at many hobby stores.\\nYou shouldn't have any leftover parts from your model. If you do, try to figure out where it was supposed to go and add it if possible.\\nBe careful with your finished model boat as it will be fragile.\\nTIPS\\nYou could also try buying a plastic kit. Most plastic kits come with pre-made sections that can be snapped or glued together easily. [16]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nDon't be in a rush to assemble your model boat. Take your time with each step to make sure everything is correct.\\nAll models will have their own instructions. Try to follow these as closely as you can to ensure great results.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Model ship building is an interesting hobby that many people enjoy. It can be a lot of fun to see your model ship come together as you build it. Most model ships are accurate representations of actual ships and even share some things in common with their construction processes. If you've never built a model ship before, don't worry. There are plenty of model kits that have all the pieces you'll need to build your own model ship.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buying a Model Boat Kit\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look for a model to purchase.\", \"描述\": \"There are many different models, styles and types of model boat kits available for purchase. If you are new to model boat building, you should spend some time finding a model ship kit that interests you. Purchasing a kit is one of the easiest ways for beginners to get into the hobby. Have fun and find a model that you want to build to get started.\\nYour local hobby shops will likely have model boat kits available to buy.\\nMany on-line hobby shops can send a model boat kit to your home.\\nThere are many different model boat kit styles that you can buy. Many of these will have a differing levels of difficulty and challenge.\\nIf this is your first time building a model boat, try to select a simple model for beginners.\\nDo some research on the type of boat you are building to help you get an idea of what it will look like when finished.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy the necessary tools.\", \"描述\": \"Most model boat kits will require you to purchase some basic tools. These tools will help you to assemble the model and will make sure it goes together correctly. Check the model's tool requirements and purchase any additional tools that may be necessary.\\nYou will likely want a wood plane or sandpaper.\\nSmall pliers can help when assembling the model.\\nYou may find a complete ship model tool kit that will provide everything you need to get started.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Follow the model boat kit's instructions and assemble your model.\", \"描述\": \"Although many model boats will require you to take similar steps when assembling the model, your kit will come with its own specific instructions. Always follow the instructions for your model boat exactly to help ensure your model is built correctly and looks great when finished.\\nEach model boat will have its own instructions.\\nAlways consult your instruction manual every step.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Body of a Model Ship\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Open the box and lay out your parts.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have your model boat kit, you'll want to open it up and examine its contents. You should have all the parts and instructions necessary to assemble your boat. However, you'll want to make sure you actually have everything. Laying the pieces out can be a good way to notice if anything is missing or damaged.\\nMake sure all the parts are accounted for.\\nMake sure none of the parts are damaged.\\nFind your instructions manual and review it.\\nYou may need additional tools or materials. Check your instructions to see if you need to buy anything else before getting started.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've confirmed that you have all the materials and tools you will need to construct your boat, you can get started buy building the frame. The frame of the boat will allow you to add planks, forming the actual body of the model boat. Remember to always consult your model's instructions to properly construct your model boat. Review these tips to help give you an understanding of what you can expect when building your model boat's frame:\\nSlide the bulkhead frames into the keel. The keel will be the long piece of the frame, running the length of the boat. The bulkheads will slide into slots found on the keel. Bulkheads will help shape the planks of your boat when it's time to apply them.\\nOnce you're sure everything fits, you can glue the bulkhead frames into the keel.\\nMake sure everything is level and flat on the top of the frame. If any bulkheads or areas of the keel are higher than others, use sandpaper to level them off.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Level the bulkhead frames.\", \"描述\": \"A very important part of assembling your model boat will be to make sure the planks lay evenly over the bulkheads. If the planks aren't able to touch each bulkhead and lay flat, your boat may not be correctly assembled. Use these steps to see how flat the planks will fit across the bulkheads, ensuring that your model boat will be assembled correctly:\\nPlace a plank over the bulkheads.\\nIf there is a space where the plank doesn't touch a bulkhead, sand the bulkheads down until the plank rests flatly against each bulkhead.\\nTake your time and make sure each plank will lay flatly against the bulkheads.\\nMake sure to test both sides of the bulkheads.\\nIf you sand one area down too much, you can add tiny slivers of wood later on to level off the plank.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the first planks.\", \"描述\": \"Once you are sure the planks will lay flatly against the bulkheads, you can begin affixing them. Adding planks will create the hull of your model boat. The first plank you place will determine how each other plank is affixed, so take your time and apply it properly, according to your model's instructions.\\nYou will likely place the first plank at deck level.\\nPlanks run the length of the boat, from fore to aft.\\nEach plank will be glued to the bulkheads that it is meant to touch.\\nCheck your model's instructions to learn where you should place your first plank.\\nAdd planks in pairs to ensure they are even and level with one another. Your first planks should mirror images of one another.\\nSoaking planks in water can help them become more flexible.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Keep building the hull by adding planks.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have your first few planks in place, you can begin adding the remaining planks to build the hull. These planks will need to fit tightly together, filling in any gaps between them. When you are finished, there should be no gaps between any planks, fully encapsulating the bulkheads and creating the hull.\\nIf there are any gaps, you can use wood filler or small pieces of wood to fill them in.\\nYour model may have you add additional layers of planking. Follow your model's unique instructions when adding planks to ensure the best results.\\nAdditional layers of planking are often decorative.\\nYou may need to taper some planks to close up gaps.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Sand the hull.\", \"描述\": \"After you've added all the necessary planks to form the hull, you can begin sanding the hull. Planks may have been slightly uneven in some places, giving your hull a lumpy or rough look. By sanding the hull, you can give your model boat a smooth and streamlined look. Take your time and work carefully to sand away any rough, unleveled, or bumpy areas of the hull.\\nYour model boat's hull should look completely smooth after sanding it.\\nEach plank will look like it was naturally blended or attached to the next.\\nNo one plank should stick out further than another.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add the deck.\", \"描述\": \"Now that the the hull has been sanded you can add in the deck. Adding the deck will complete the main body of your model boat. You will likely need to glue the model deck to the top of your bulkheads, keel, and deck level planks. After you've affixed the deck, you can move on to adding details, painting, and finishing your model boat.\\nDouble check your model before adding any finishing touches.\\nYou may need to use wood filler or small pieces of wood to make the deck piece lay level.\\nTake a moment to sand down any rough areas that you might notice.\\nYour model will likely have specific instructions for attaching the deck piece. Always check your instructions to make sure your model will be successfully completed.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Model Boat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Paint or seal the hull and deck of the model.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you've fully assembled the hull and deck of the boat, you can begin to apply paint, stains, or other sealants. This can help give your model the finished look that the real boat would have. Check your model's instructions for exact details on which kind of finish to apply and how to apply it.\\nMost wooden model boats will require some kind of wood stain and sealant to protect the wood.\\nSome models can be decoratively painted to look like their real life counter parts.\\nMatte or stain polyurethane finishes can be a great addition to your model boat.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add details.\", \"描述\": \"Once the majority of your model boat has been painted, you can begin adding details. These small pieces can help add a level of realism to your boat, making the model look and feel completed. Your model kit will likely include all the necessary pieces to add. Follow the instructions in your kit to learn exactly where and how to place the detail pieces to your model. As an example, you may want to add elements like these to give your boat an authentic feel:\\nSails.\\nMasts.\\nFigurehead.\\nThe boat's wheel.\\nRigging.\\nCannons.\\nQuarterdeck.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finish your model and display it.\", \"描述\": \"Before you complete your model, it's a good idea to give it one final check. Make sure everything is painted to your liking, that you've added all the detail items, and that you are satisfied with the way it looks in general. If there is something missing, feel free to go back and fix whatever it is you've noticed. After you've checked your model boat over, you can proudly display your hard work.\\nYou can buy model boat displays at many hobby stores.\\nYou shouldn't have any leftover parts from your model. If you do, try to figure out where it was supposed to go and add it if possible.\\nBe careful with your finished model boat as it will be fragile.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You could also try buying a plastic kit. Most plastic kits come with pre-made sections that can be snapped or glued together easily. [16]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Don't be in a rush to assemble your model boat. Take your time with each step to make sure everything is correct.\\n\", \"All models will have their own instructions. Try to follow these as closely as you can to ensure great results.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,441 |
How to Build a Modeling Portfolio
|
1. Getting Ready
1-1. Determine your model type.
There are many different types of modeling, some with very specific requirements in terms of physical appearance and skill level. While it’s true that the most common types of modeling do require tall, thin people, there are other types of modeling where the preferred body style is more flexible.
Live modeling is one example where personality is more important than an exact body type or look. Live models represent companies at trade shows, shopping malls, and other venues to promote a particular product or brand. Since live modeling requires interacting with many people, it’s important that the model is outgoing and has a sunny disposition.
Fashion modeling is the most common type of modeling that people know about. To be a successful fashion model requires a certain height. In the larger markets, such as New York, the minimum acceptable height is 5’10”, while in the smaller markets the minimum is 5’8”. Fashion models must also be quite thin. In terms of looks, a wider range is acceptable, from conventionally beautiful to striking.
Commercial print modeling is a catch-all for models who appear in advertisements in magazines and newspapers. It can range from swimsuit modeling to portraying a specific role, such as businessperson, doctor, or representative of a particular demographic. Appearance requirements vary with the type of job. For instance, swimsuit models need to be curvy, yet show good muscle-tone, while representatives of a particular demographic simply need to be attractive examples of that demographic.
Body part modeling showcases a particular body part, such hair, legs, or hands. If you have lustrous hair, graceful hands, or legs that go on forever, consider this modeling type.
1-2. Hire a professional photographer.
Call some local modelling agencies and find out who they use. Photographers who work in the industry will have experience with models. They will likely also know what agencies generally look for in portfolio pictures and are able to advise you accordingly.
1-3. Hire a professional make-up artist.
If you are lucky, the photographer will sort this out for you, but remember to ask if the cost of the make-up artist is included in the fee, or if you have to pay extra. If the photographer isn't providing one, ask the local modelling agencies to recommend one. As with the photographer, make-up artists in the business will know what’s expected.
1-4. Practice posing.
Look through magazines to find poses that inspire you. Don’t be afraid to alter them a little to make them your own. Practice them in front of a mirror and change the angle from time to time. Ask a family member or friend to critique your poses as you practice.
1-5. Pick out your clothing for the shoot.
It’s important to realize that the purpose of your portfolio is to sell you. Eliminate anything that distracts from that purpose. To that end, keep your clothing choices simple. Choose solid colors and stay away from prints and patterns. Opt for clothing that you know fits you well: avoid anything that’s too tight or loose. Your portfolio is also not the place for “fashion-forward” outfits.
You will need several outfit choices since you don't want to have pictures of you in only one or two.
If you intend on going into commercial print modeling, it's a good idea to bring a swimsuit, too.
1-6. Prepare to demonstrate versatility.
Having a number of looks suited to the type of modeling for which you are suited is essential. If the photographer is good, he or she will know what types of pictures and looks you will need.
Headshots are images where the model's face is depicted clearly. Usually coming in 8x10 sizing, the picture is typically of the model's head and upper torso, taken at close range. It's important that the headshot focus on the face. They are also usually taken with minimal make-up, so that the model's facial structure and skin tone are evident. Every model needs one in his or her portfolio.
Beauty shots, on the other hand, are artistic images, that like the headshot, are of the model's head and upper body. However, unlike headshots, the model is made-up and may be posed dramatically. If you want to work as a commercial print model, this photograph is a must for you.
Fashion shots are exactly what they sound like: photographs of the model wearing different outfits, with the focus being on the clothing. Even the model's make-up complements the outfit. These images are for fashion models.
Swimsuit shots showcase the model's body. This is another photo that you'll need for commercial print modeling.
Another photo that's important if you want to go into commercial print modeling is the editorial shot. Centered around a story, here's is where you'll be playing a character in a particular narrative.
Make sure you have your outfits ready at least five days before the day of the shoot.
1-7. Maintain your looks.
Looking your best at your photo shoot is crucial to your success as a model. Accordingly, perform any routine maintenance on yourself as you need before the big day. For example, have a hair-cut or get a manicure.
The day before the shoot, make sure you get a good night's sleep and stay away from alcohol.
2. Taking Photos
2-1. Check and double-check your bag.
Before leaving the house, make sure that your bag is packed and that you have money for transportation costs and parking fees. Aim to arrive 10 minutes before you are due. Carry the photographer's number on you and give them a call if you realize you might be late.
2-2. Communicate with the photographer.
Good communication between model and photographer is essential for great pictures. Listen carefully to what the photographer wants. Try not to be nervous, but do acknowledge that the feeling is normal...even models who have been working for years get nervous.
2-3. Showcase your confidence and charm.
You want your pictures to capture the essence of what you can bring as a model: your vivacity and ability to portray varied characters and moods. Don’t be afraid to show off. This is your time to shine.
2-4. Demonstrate proper etiquette.
It’s important to build good professional relationships with your photographer and makeup artist. Be sure to write both of them thank you notes after the photo shoot is over.
3. Creating Your Portfolio
3-1. Choose your portfolio shots.
Remember quality matters more than quantity. Select 12 to 16 of your best photographs. Enlist family and friends to help you out.
Make sure that your photos show you in different outfits and in different locations. Also important is including images of you in different lighting, for example, indoors and outdoors.
The standard photo size is 8x10 inches. Other sizes include 9x12 and 11x14
3-2. Arrange your photos for publishing.
When a potential client opens your portfolio you want to wow them from beginning to end. Accordingly, include your best pictures, two in the opening and two in the closing pages of your portfolio.
3-3. Get a portfolio book printed.
Your photographer may offer this service. If not, any photo printing place can do it for you. They can also create a disc of your portfolio, too.
Another option in addition to a printed version is an online portfolio. It's best to hire someone to design a website to host it rather than trying to do this yourself. Otherwise, it will appear amateurish.
3-4. Update your portfolio.
As you get modelling jobs and gain experience, add this to your portfolio. Keep “tear sheets,” usually magazine pages or photos from a photo shoot. These demonstrate your success as a model.
3-5. Include a profile page.
Your profile will list important information about you. Include the types of work you’re willing to do, your statistics, for example, your height, weight, hair and eye color, whether you have any problem areas on your body, for instance, tattoos or scars, and finally, any relevant skills you have, such as knowing a sport, or how to play a musical instrument.
Tips
It's a good idea to keep spare copies of the photos in your portfolio in a safe place. You'll avoid major panics if you should lose your portfolio if you do this.
If you change your hairstyle, dye your hair, braid your hair, wear a wig, or any other long-lasting changes to your hair, change your headshots or add another set of headshots with your different hairstyle.
Buy a 9 x 12" inch portfolio book. It appears professional and it can allow you to add more information to each page.
Warnings
Be aware of tanning before the shoot as tan lines can create problems.
Be aware that many photographers and make-up artists will have cancellation policies. As a rule of thumb, if you cancel within 48 hours of the starting time of the shoot, you will have to pay at least some, if not all, of the fee.
Don't assume that the photographer charging you the most must therefore be the best. On the other hand, also remember that you get what you pay for.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:50",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Ready\\n1-1. Determine your model type.\\nThere are many different types of modeling, some with very specific requirements in terms of physical appearance and skill level. While it’s true that the most common types of modeling do require tall, thin people, there are other types of modeling where the preferred body style is more flexible.\\nLive modeling is one example where personality is more important than an exact body type or look. Live models represent companies at trade shows, shopping malls, and other venues to promote a particular product or brand. Since live modeling requires interacting with many people, it’s important that the model is outgoing and has a sunny disposition.\\nFashion modeling is the most common type of modeling that people know about. To be a successful fashion model requires a certain height. In the larger markets, such as New York, the minimum acceptable height is 5’10”, while in the smaller markets the minimum is 5’8”. Fashion models must also be quite thin. In terms of looks, a wider range is acceptable, from conventionally beautiful to striking.\\nCommercial print modeling is a catch-all for models who appear in advertisements in magazines and newspapers. It can range from swimsuit modeling to portraying a specific role, such as businessperson, doctor, or representative of a particular demographic. Appearance requirements vary with the type of job. For instance, swimsuit models need to be curvy, yet show good muscle-tone, while representatives of a particular demographic simply need to be attractive examples of that demographic.\\nBody part modeling showcases a particular body part, such hair, legs, or hands. If you have lustrous hair, graceful hands, or legs that go on forever, consider this modeling type.\\n1-2. Hire a professional photographer.\\nCall some local modelling agencies and find out who they use. Photographers who work in the industry will have experience with models. They will likely also know what agencies generally look for in portfolio pictures and are able to advise you accordingly.\\n1-3. Hire a professional make-up artist.\\nIf you are lucky, the photographer will sort this out for you, but remember to ask if the cost of the make-up artist is included in the fee, or if you have to pay extra. If the photographer isn't providing one, ask the local modelling agencies to recommend one. As with the photographer, make-up artists in the business will know what’s expected.\\n1-4. Practice posing.\\nLook through magazines to find poses that inspire you. Don’t be afraid to alter them a little to make them your own. Practice them in front of a mirror and change the angle from time to time. Ask a family member or friend to critique your poses as you practice.\\n1-5. Pick out your clothing for the shoot.\\nIt’s important to realize that the purpose of your portfolio is to sell you. Eliminate anything that distracts from that purpose. To that end, keep your clothing choices simple. Choose solid colors and stay away from prints and patterns. Opt for clothing that you know fits you well: avoid anything that’s too tight or loose. Your portfolio is also not the place for “fashion-forward” outfits.\\nYou will need several outfit choices since you don't want to have pictures of you in only one or two.\\nIf you intend on going into commercial print modeling, it's a good idea to bring a swimsuit, too.\\n1-6. Prepare to demonstrate versatility.\\nHaving a number of looks suited to the type of modeling for which you are suited is essential. If the photographer is good, he or she will know what types of pictures and looks you will need.\\nHeadshots are images where the model's face is depicted clearly. Usually coming in 8x10 sizing, the picture is typically of the model's head and upper torso, taken at close range. It's important that the headshot focus on the face. They are also usually taken with minimal make-up, so that the model's facial structure and skin tone are evident. Every model needs one in his or her portfolio.\\nBeauty shots, on the other hand, are artistic images, that like the headshot, are of the model's head and upper body. However, unlike headshots, the model is made-up and may be posed dramatically. If you want to work as a commercial print model, this photograph is a must for you.\\nFashion shots are exactly what they sound like: photographs of the model wearing different outfits, with the focus being on the clothing. Even the model's make-up complements the outfit. These images are for fashion models.\\nSwimsuit shots showcase the model's body. This is another photo that you'll need for commercial print modeling.\\nAnother photo that's important if you want to go into commercial print modeling is the editorial shot. Centered around a story, here's is where you'll be playing a character in a particular narrative.\\nMake sure you have your outfits ready at least five days before the day of the shoot.\\n1-7. Maintain your looks.\\nLooking your best at your photo shoot is crucial to your success as a model. Accordingly, perform any routine maintenance on yourself as you need before the big day. For example, have a hair-cut or get a manicure.\\nThe day before the shoot, make sure you get a good night's sleep and stay away from alcohol.\\n2. Taking Photos\\n2-1. Check and double-check your bag.\\nBefore leaving the house, make sure that your bag is packed and that you have money for transportation costs and parking fees. Aim to arrive 10 minutes before you are due. Carry the photographer's number on you and give them a call if you realize you might be late.\\n2-2. Communicate with the photographer.\\nGood communication between model and photographer is essential for great pictures. Listen carefully to what the photographer wants. Try not to be nervous, but do acknowledge that the feeling is normal...even models who have been working for years get nervous.\\n2-3. Showcase your confidence and charm.\\nYou want your pictures to capture the essence of what you can bring as a model: your vivacity and ability to portray varied characters and moods. Don’t be afraid to show off. This is your time to shine.\\n2-4. Demonstrate proper etiquette.\\nIt’s important to build good professional relationships with your photographer and makeup artist. Be sure to write both of them thank you notes after the photo shoot is over.\\n3. Creating Your Portfolio\\n3-1. Choose your portfolio shots.\\nRemember quality matters more than quantity. Select 12 to 16 of your best photographs. Enlist family and friends to help you out.\\nMake sure that your photos show you in different outfits and in different locations. Also important is including images of you in different lighting, for example, indoors and outdoors.\\nThe standard photo size is 8x10 inches. Other sizes include 9x12 and 11x14\\n3-2. Arrange your photos for publishing.\\nWhen a potential client opens your portfolio you want to wow them from beginning to end. Accordingly, include your best pictures, two in the opening and two in the closing pages of your portfolio.\\n3-3. Get a portfolio book printed.\\nYour photographer may offer this service. If not, any photo printing place can do it for you. They can also create a disc of your portfolio, too.\\nAnother option in addition to a printed version is an online portfolio. It's best to hire someone to design a website to host it rather than trying to do this yourself. Otherwise, it will appear amateurish.\\n3-4. Update your portfolio.\\nAs you get modelling jobs and gain experience, add this to your portfolio. Keep “tear sheets,” usually magazine pages or photos from a photo shoot. These demonstrate your success as a model.\\n3-5. Include a profile page.\\nYour profile will list important information about you. Include the types of work you’re willing to do, your statistics, for example, your height, weight, hair and eye color, whether you have any problem areas on your body, for instance, tattoos or scars, and finally, any relevant skills you have, such as knowing a sport, or how to play a musical instrument.\\nTips\\nIt's a good idea to keep spare copies of the photos in your portfolio in a safe place. You'll avoid major panics if you should lose your portfolio if you do this.\\nIf you change your hairstyle, dye your hair, braid your hair, wear a wig, or any other long-lasting changes to your hair, change your headshots or add another set of headshots with your different hairstyle.\\nBuy a 9 x 12\\\" inch portfolio book. It appears professional and it can allow you to add more information to each page.\\nWarnings\\nBe aware of tanning before the shoot as tan lines can create problems.\\nBe aware that many photographers and make-up artists will have cancellation policies. As a rule of thumb, if you cancel within 48 hours of the starting time of the shoot, you will have to pay at least some, if not all, of the fee.\\nDon't assume that the photographer charging you the most must therefore be the best. On the other hand, also remember that you get what you pay for.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Launching a modeling career is tricky enough, but you'll make it even harder if you don't have a portfolio. The good news is that they're easy to put together, and a good modeling portfolio can make the difference between getting that coveted modeling job and losing it. The bad news is that if you mess it up, it'll certainly cost you jobs, and may even ruin your career before you even get started.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Ready\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine your model type.\", \"描述\": \"There are many different types of modeling, some with very specific requirements in terms of physical appearance and skill level. While it’s true that the most common types of modeling do require tall, thin people, there are other types of modeling where the preferred body style is more flexible.\\nLive modeling is one example where personality is more important than an exact body type or look. Live models represent companies at trade shows, shopping malls, and other venues to promote a particular product or brand. Since live modeling requires interacting with many people, it’s important that the model is outgoing and has a sunny disposition.\\nFashion modeling is the most common type of modeling that people know about. To be a successful fashion model requires a certain height. In the larger markets, such as New York, the minimum acceptable height is 5’10”, while in the smaller markets the minimum is 5’8”. Fashion models must also be quite thin. In terms of looks, a wider range is acceptable, from conventionally beautiful to striking.\\nCommercial print modeling is a catch-all for models who appear in advertisements in magazines and newspapers. It can range from swimsuit modeling to portraying a specific role, such as businessperson, doctor, or representative of a particular demographic. Appearance requirements vary with the type of job. For instance, swimsuit models need to be curvy, yet show good muscle-tone, while representatives of a particular demographic simply need to be attractive examples of that demographic.\\nBody part modeling showcases a particular body part, such hair, legs, or hands. If you have lustrous hair, graceful hands, or legs that go on forever, consider this modeling type.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hire a professional photographer.\", \"描述\": \"Call some local modelling agencies and find out who they use. Photographers who work in the industry will have experience with models. They will likely also know what agencies generally look for in portfolio pictures and are able to advise you accordingly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hire a professional make-up artist.\", \"描述\": \"If you are lucky, the photographer will sort this out for you, but remember to ask if the cost of the make-up artist is included in the fee, or if you have to pay extra. If the photographer isn't providing one, ask the local modelling agencies to recommend one. As with the photographer, make-up artists in the business will know what’s expected.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Practice posing.\", \"描述\": \"Look through magazines to find poses that inspire you. Don’t be afraid to alter them a little to make them your own. Practice them in front of a mirror and change the angle from time to time. Ask a family member or friend to critique your poses as you practice.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pick out your clothing for the shoot.\", \"描述\": \"It’s important to realize that the purpose of your portfolio is to sell you. Eliminate anything that distracts from that purpose. To that end, keep your clothing choices simple. Choose solid colors and stay away from prints and patterns. Opt for clothing that you know fits you well: avoid anything that’s too tight or loose. Your portfolio is also not the place for “fashion-forward” outfits.\\nYou will need several outfit choices since you don't want to have pictures of you in only one or two.\\nIf you intend on going into commercial print modeling, it's a good idea to bring a swimsuit, too.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Prepare to demonstrate versatility.\", \"描述\": \"Having a number of looks suited to the type of modeling for which you are suited is essential. If the photographer is good, he or she will know what types of pictures and looks you will need.\\nHeadshots are images where the model's face is depicted clearly. Usually coming in 8x10 sizing, the picture is typically of the model's head and upper torso, taken at close range. It's important that the headshot focus on the face. They are also usually taken with minimal make-up, so that the model's facial structure and skin tone are evident. Every model needs one in his or her portfolio.\\nBeauty shots, on the other hand, are artistic images, that like the headshot, are of the model's head and upper body. However, unlike headshots, the model is made-up and may be posed dramatically. If you want to work as a commercial print model, this photograph is a must for you.\\nFashion shots are exactly what they sound like: photographs of the model wearing different outfits, with the focus being on the clothing. Even the model's make-up complements the outfit. These images are for fashion models.\\nSwimsuit shots showcase the model's body. This is another photo that you'll need for commercial print modeling.\\nAnother photo that's important if you want to go into commercial print modeling is the editorial shot. Centered around a story, here's is where you'll be playing a character in a particular narrative.\\nMake sure you have your outfits ready at least five days before the day of the shoot.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Maintain your looks.\", \"描述\": \"Looking your best at your photo shoot is crucial to your success as a model. Accordingly, perform any routine maintenance on yourself as you need before the big day. For example, have a hair-cut or get a manicure.\\nThe day before the shoot, make sure you get a good night's sleep and stay away from alcohol.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Taking Photos\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check and double-check your bag.\", \"描述\": \"Before leaving the house, make sure that your bag is packed and that you have money for transportation costs and parking fees. Aim to arrive 10 minutes before you are due. Carry the photographer's number on you and give them a call if you realize you might be late.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Communicate with the photographer.\", \"描述\": \"Good communication between model and photographer is essential for great pictures. Listen carefully to what the photographer wants. Try not to be nervous, but do acknowledge that the feeling is normal...even models who have been working for years get nervous.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Showcase your confidence and charm.\", \"描述\": \"You want your pictures to capture the essence of what you can bring as a model: your vivacity and ability to portray varied characters and moods. Don’t be afraid to show off. This is your time to shine.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Demonstrate proper etiquette.\", \"描述\": \"It’s important to build good professional relationships with your photographer and makeup artist. Be sure to write both of them thank you notes after the photo shoot is over.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Creating Your Portfolio\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose your portfolio shots.\", \"描述\": \"Remember quality matters more than quantity. Select 12 to 16 of your best photographs. Enlist family and friends to help you out.\\nMake sure that your photos show you in different outfits and in different locations. Also important is including images of you in different lighting, for example, indoors and outdoors.\\nThe standard photo size is 8x10 inches. Other sizes include 9x12 and 11x14\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Arrange your photos for publishing.\", \"描述\": \"When a potential client opens your portfolio you want to wow them from beginning to end. Accordingly, include your best pictures, two in the opening and two in the closing pages of your portfolio.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get a portfolio book printed.\", \"描述\": \"Your photographer may offer this service. If not, any photo printing place can do it for you. They can also create a disc of your portfolio, too.\\nAnother option in addition to a printed version is an online portfolio. It's best to hire someone to design a website to host it rather than trying to do this yourself. Otherwise, it will appear amateurish.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Update your portfolio.\", \"描述\": \"As you get modelling jobs and gain experience, add this to your portfolio. Keep “tear sheets,” usually magazine pages or photos from a photo shoot. These demonstrate your success as a model.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Include a profile page.\", \"描述\": \"Your profile will list important information about you. Include the types of work you’re willing to do, your statistics, for example, your height, weight, hair and eye color, whether you have any problem areas on your body, for instance, tattoos or scars, and finally, any relevant skills you have, such as knowing a sport, or how to play a musical instrument.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"It's a good idea to keep spare copies of the photos in your portfolio in a safe place. You'll avoid major panics if you should lose your portfolio if you do this.\\n\", \"If you change your hairstyle, dye your hair, braid your hair, wear a wig, or any other long-lasting changes to your hair, change your headshots or add another set of headshots with your different hairstyle.\\n\", \"Buy a 9 x 12\\\" inch portfolio book. It appears professional and it can allow you to add more information to each page.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be aware of tanning before the shoot as tan lines can create problems.\\n\", \"Be aware that many photographers and make-up artists will have cancellation policies. As a rule of thumb, if you cancel within 48 hours of the starting time of the shoot, you will have to pay at least some, if not all, of the fee.\\n\", \"Don't assume that the photographer charging you the most must therefore be the best. On the other hand, also remember that you get what you pay for.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,442 |
How to Build a Modern House in Minecraft
|
1. Modern Architecture Basics
1-1. Use sharp lines and "square" surfaces.
This isn't especially hard with Minecraft's block-based building system. An easy way to mimic this design style is to make your house's walls different heights. It doesn't matter if one or more of your walls go up past the roof — on a modern house, it counts as art!
Many modern houses are designed to create clean, visually pleasing areas of contrast. They do this by incorporating many squares, rectangles, and straight lines into their exterior. Though it might seem like this would make the house look like a "jumble" of shapes, the actual effect is striking. This is a great way to add visual complexity to your house while still using an easy rectangular floor plan.
1-2. Pair clean white walls with natural materials.
Finding wood and stone in Minecraft is easy. White building materials can be a little trickier — quartz, sandstone, wool, or lighter varieties of stone may be your best bet.
A common theme in modern house architecture is the connection between the orderly world of humans and the chaotic beauty of nature. Modern houses use often use numerous unadorned white concrete surfaces on the outside of the house to give it a "pristine" feel. Pairing these with panels or walls made from rich natural materials like wood and stone creates gorgeous contrast. More rarely, another neutral color like grey is used in place of white.
1-3. Have big glass windows.
You'll need lots of sand for this. Building your house on the beach gives you a scenic view and an easy source of sand for your windows. Don't forget that you can always build multiple furnaces to speed up glass production!
The famous Stahl House in the Hollywood hills shows off this design feature. The house's numerous glass walls offer an amazing view and make it seem as if you're living on a wide open cloud above Los Angeles — a one-of-a-kind experience.
Modern architects love using large, rectangular panes of glass. These allow you to give the occupants of your house a great view — a must if you've built your house somewhere cool. They also create the impression of clean, open spaces and can be used to form contrasting squares and rectangles on the outside of the house.
1-4. Don't focus on symmetry.
Feel free to indulge your imagination with your house's shape. Standard "box and roof" constructions are to be avoided. Your house can be lopsided, uneven, or even outright bizarre-looking — it's up to you.
This modern house in Mexico exemplifies this trend. The main entrance and hallway are located off to the left, while the big, boxy structure on the right looms over the rest of the house. The way it juts out creates a powerful impression — it's almost intimidating.
Homes and mansions from past eras often strove to create grand, awe-inspiring symmetry (see: the Palace of Versailles). Modern homes sometimes do the same thing with the opposite approach. Many modern houses seem to deliberately go out of their way not to be symmetrical, challenging the viewer with their lopsided designs.
1-5. Keep interiors un-cluttered.
The insides of modern houses are usually designed to give the effect of large, open spaces. Use clean neutral-colored floors and natural materials like wood and stone to create the same sorts of spacious contrast that you used for the outside of the house. Simple stairs, high ceilings, minimal furniture, and glass openings to awnings and balconies can enhance this effect.
Have a wall without many windows? Show off your modern, artsy sensibility by showing off a selection of paintings. You can craft one from eight wooden sticks around a block of wool (any color).
1-6. Add a (square or rectangular) pool.
Modern houses often seem to have a pool in the backyard — perhaps it's because this allows architects to play with an additional surface, adding a new dimension to their design. Don't forget that you'll need a bucket or two and a source of water if you want to fill your pool. You can craft a bucket from three iron ingots arranged in a "V" at the bottom of the crafting box.
This gorgeous mansion in Brazil has a simple but elegant rectangular pool mere steps away from an offset rectangular entertainment area — the perfect example of modern luxury.
Use a square or rectangular shape blocks for your pool so that it matches the right angles of the house. Keep it level with the ground.
2. Ideas for Creative Projects
2-1. Incorporate smooth curves and rounded surfaces.
Minecraft's block-by-block building style makes it easy to replicate the "squares and lines" style of a modern house. More abstract living spaces that incorporate curves are a little trickier. This guide to making convincing circles and spheres in Minecraft can be a huge help when it comes to recreating these difficult shapes.
This house puts a curvy twist on the basic "white surfaces and squares" modern house design. The curved roof and overhangs give this swanky pad a sleek look — a little like a giant iPod.
2-2. Use bold, daring mash-ups of geometric shapes.
If you want to get adventurous with your house design, don't limit yourself to squares and rectangles. Tossing together odd combinations of shapes and surfaces can give your house a truly unique look. This is best for larger houses, as it's difficult to make clear, defined geometric shapes out of just a few blocks.
2-3. Consider "impossible" structures.
If you really want to push the limits of what can be called a "house," feel free to go absolutely nuts with your architecture. You don't have to worry about whether your house will actually stand up or not in Minecraft, so don't be afraid to unleash your creativity. You can even make floating houses by building a bridge out over a cliff or canyon, building your house on the bridge, and then getting rid of the blocks connecting it back to the cliff!
2-4. Incorporate well-manicured plant life into your house.
A well-placed tree or garden can give your modern house a bit of natural flair. Plus, it's a good way to mimic the "green" designs that have become somewhat popular in modern architecture. If you connect a grassy area to an area of plain dirt with a string of connected dirt blocks, the grass will spread to the new area very slowly. You can use this to make unique gardens, like a lawn on your house's roof. You can also cut down wild flowers to collect them for your garden.
You probably won't want to go for lush, sprawling gardens here — modern architecture tends to use tidy arrangements when it comes to plants.
2-5. Consider your building location for maximum impact.
When it comes to making an amazing house, where you build can be just as important as what you build. There's no "right" place to put your modern house, but you may want to look out for especially exciting plots of land. Just a few location ideas include: on the beach, on the top of a hill or mountain, carved into the side of a cliff, on a platform in the ocean, or buried deep underground.
Falling Water, the famous modern house built by architect Frank Lloyd Wright, is perched on top of a small creek and waterfall. The water flows underneath the house, making it not just a gorgeous sight but a serious feat of engineering as well.
You can create servers to play with random Minecraft users from different devices.
For example, you can use a Minecraft pocket edition server.
It is a Minecraft world on the mobile version.
Tips
If you want color, good colors for a modern house are gray (light/dark), lime, orange, brown, light blue, and cyan.
Torches give it an old fashioned look so make large windows with black stained glass to give some light in. If you want it to be a bit more private use sea lanterns or redstone lamps.
Make your house away from trees so any mobs will burn.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:50",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Modern Architecture Basics\\n1-1. Use sharp lines and \\\"square\\\" surfaces.\\nThis isn't especially hard with Minecraft's block-based building system. An easy way to mimic this design style is to make your house's walls different heights. It doesn't matter if one or more of your walls go up past the roof — on a modern house, it counts as art!\\nMany modern houses are designed to create clean, visually pleasing areas of contrast. They do this by incorporating many squares, rectangles, and straight lines into their exterior. Though it might seem like this would make the house look like a \\\"jumble\\\" of shapes, the actual effect is striking. This is a great way to add visual complexity to your house while still using an easy rectangular floor plan.\\n1-2. Pair clean white walls with natural materials.\\nFinding wood and stone in Minecraft is easy. White building materials can be a little trickier — quartz, sandstone, wool, or lighter varieties of stone may be your best bet.\\nA common theme in modern house architecture is the connection between the orderly world of humans and the chaotic beauty of nature. Modern houses use often use numerous unadorned white concrete surfaces on the outside of the house to give it a \\\"pristine\\\" feel. Pairing these with panels or walls made from rich natural materials like wood and stone creates gorgeous contrast. More rarely, another neutral color like grey is used in place of white.\\n1-3. Have big glass windows.\\nYou'll need lots of sand for this. Building your house on the beach gives you a scenic view and an easy source of sand for your windows. Don't forget that you can always build multiple furnaces to speed up glass production!\\nThe famous Stahl House in the Hollywood hills shows off this design feature. The house's numerous glass walls offer an amazing view and make it seem as if you're living on a wide open cloud above Los Angeles — a one-of-a-kind experience.\\nModern architects love using large, rectangular panes of glass. These allow you to give the occupants of your house a great view — a must if you've built your house somewhere cool. They also create the impression of clean, open spaces and can be used to form contrasting squares and rectangles on the outside of the house.\\n1-4. Don't focus on symmetry.\\nFeel free to indulge your imagination with your house's shape. Standard \\\"box and roof\\\" constructions are to be avoided. Your house can be lopsided, uneven, or even outright bizarre-looking — it's up to you.\\n\\n This modern house in Mexico exemplifies this trend. The main entrance and hallway are located off to the left, while the big, boxy structure on the right looms over the rest of the house. The way it juts out creates a powerful impression — it's almost intimidating.\\nHomes and mansions from past eras often strove to create grand, awe-inspiring symmetry (see: the Palace of Versailles). Modern homes sometimes do the same thing with the opposite approach. Many modern houses seem to deliberately go out of their way not to be symmetrical, challenging the viewer with their lopsided designs.\\n1-5. Keep interiors un-cluttered.\\nThe insides of modern houses are usually designed to give the effect of large, open spaces. Use clean neutral-colored floors and natural materials like wood and stone to create the same sorts of spacious contrast that you used for the outside of the house. Simple stairs, high ceilings, minimal furniture, and glass openings to awnings and balconies can enhance this effect.\\nHave a wall without many windows? Show off your modern, artsy sensibility by showing off a selection of paintings. You can craft one from eight wooden sticks around a block of wool (any color).\\n1-6. Add a (square or rectangular) pool.\\nModern houses often seem to have a pool in the backyard — perhaps it's because this allows architects to play with an additional surface, adding a new dimension to their design. Don't forget that you'll need a bucket or two and a source of water if you want to fill your pool. You can craft a bucket from three iron ingots arranged in a \\\"V\\\" at the bottom of the crafting box.\\n\\nThis gorgeous mansion in Brazil has a simple but elegant rectangular pool mere steps away from an offset rectangular entertainment area — the perfect example of modern luxury.\\nUse a square or rectangular shape blocks for your pool so that it matches the right angles of the house. Keep it level with the ground.\\n2. Ideas for Creative Projects\\n2-1. Incorporate smooth curves and rounded surfaces.\\nMinecraft's block-by-block building style makes it easy to replicate the \\\"squares and lines\\\" style of a modern house. More abstract living spaces that incorporate curves are a little trickier. This guide to making convincing circles and spheres in Minecraft can be a huge help when it comes to recreating these difficult shapes.\\n This house puts a curvy twist on the basic \\\"white surfaces and squares\\\" modern house design. The curved roof and overhangs give this swanky pad a sleek look — a little like a giant iPod.\\n2-2. Use bold, daring mash-ups of geometric shapes.\\nIf you want to get adventurous with your house design, don't limit yourself to squares and rectangles. Tossing together odd combinations of shapes and surfaces can give your house a truly unique look. This is best for larger houses, as it's difficult to make clear, defined geometric shapes out of just a few blocks.\\n2-3. Consider \\\"impossible\\\" structures.\\nIf you really want to push the limits of what can be called a \\\"house,\\\" feel free to go absolutely nuts with your architecture. You don't have to worry about whether your house will actually stand up or not in Minecraft, so don't be afraid to unleash your creativity. You can even make floating houses by building a bridge out over a cliff or canyon, building your house on the bridge, and then getting rid of the blocks connecting it back to the cliff!\\n2-4. Incorporate well-manicured plant life into your house.\\nA well-placed tree or garden can give your modern house a bit of natural flair. Plus, it's a good way to mimic the \\\"green\\\" designs that have become somewhat popular in modern architecture. If you connect a grassy area to an area of plain dirt with a string of connected dirt blocks, the grass will spread to the new area very slowly. You can use this to make unique gardens, like a lawn on your house's roof. You can also cut down wild flowers to collect them for your garden.\\nYou probably won't want to go for lush, sprawling gardens here — modern architecture tends to use tidy arrangements when it comes to plants.\\n2-5. Consider your building location for maximum impact.\\nWhen it comes to making an amazing house, where you build can be just as important as what you build. There's no \\\"right\\\" place to put your modern house, but you may want to look out for especially exciting plots of land. Just a few location ideas include: on the beach, on the top of a hill or mountain, carved into the side of a cliff, on a platform in the ocean, or buried deep underground.\\n\\n Falling Water, the famous modern house built by architect Frank Lloyd Wright, is perched on top of a small creek and waterfall. The water flows underneath the house, making it not just a gorgeous sight but a serious feat of engineering as well.\\nYou can create servers to play with random Minecraft users from different devices.\\nFor example, you can use a Minecraft pocket edition server.\\nIt is a Minecraft world on the mobile version.\\nTips\\nIf you want color, good colors for a modern house are gray (light/dark), lime, orange, brown, light blue, and cyan.\\nTorches give it an old fashioned look so make large windows with black stained glass to give some light in. If you want it to be a bit more private use sea lanterns or redstone lamps.\\nMake your house away from trees so any mobs will burn.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Hop onto any populated Minecraft server and you're virtually guaranteed to see great examples of medieval architecture — castles, keeps, and stone walls are abundantly popular. Because of this, one way to break from the mold is to make your in-game house a modern one. Learning how to recreate a few trends in modern architecture in-game only takes a few minutes and allows you to make your building projects stand out from the boring old \\\"cobblestone and wood\\\" crowd.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Modern Architecture Basics\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use sharp lines and \\\"square\\\" surfaces.\", \"描述\": \"This isn't especially hard with Minecraft's block-based building system. An easy way to mimic this design style is to make your house's walls different heights. It doesn't matter if one or more of your walls go up past the roof — on a modern house, it counts as art!\\nMany modern houses are designed to create clean, visually pleasing areas of contrast. They do this by incorporating many squares, rectangles, and straight lines into their exterior. Though it might seem like this would make the house look like a \\\"jumble\\\" of shapes, the actual effect is striking. This is a great way to add visual complexity to your house while still using an easy rectangular floor plan.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pair clean white walls with natural materials.\", \"描述\": \"Finding wood and stone in Minecraft is easy. White building materials can be a little trickier — quartz, sandstone, wool, or lighter varieties of stone may be your best bet.\\nA common theme in modern house architecture is the connection between the orderly world of humans and the chaotic beauty of nature. Modern houses use often use numerous unadorned white concrete surfaces on the outside of the house to give it a \\\"pristine\\\" feel. Pairing these with panels or walls made from rich natural materials like wood and stone creates gorgeous contrast. More rarely, another neutral color like grey is used in place of white.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Have big glass windows.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need lots of sand for this. Building your house on the beach gives you a scenic view and an easy source of sand for your windows. Don't forget that you can always build multiple furnaces to speed up glass production!\\nThe famous Stahl House in the Hollywood hills shows off this design feature. The house's numerous glass walls offer an amazing view and make it seem as if you're living on a wide open cloud above Los Angeles — a one-of-a-kind experience.\\nModern architects love using large, rectangular panes of glass. These allow you to give the occupants of your house a great view — a must if you've built your house somewhere cool. They also create the impression of clean, open spaces and can be used to form contrasting squares and rectangles on the outside of the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Don't focus on symmetry.\", \"描述\": \"Feel free to indulge your imagination with your house's shape. Standard \\\"box and roof\\\" constructions are to be avoided. Your house can be lopsided, uneven, or even outright bizarre-looking — it's up to you.\\n\\n This modern house in Mexico exemplifies this trend. The main entrance and hallway are located off to the left, while the big, boxy structure on the right looms over the rest of the house. The way it juts out creates a powerful impression — it's almost intimidating.\\nHomes and mansions from past eras often strove to create grand, awe-inspiring symmetry (see: the Palace of Versailles). Modern homes sometimes do the same thing with the opposite approach. Many modern houses seem to deliberately go out of their way not to be symmetrical, challenging the viewer with their lopsided designs.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Keep interiors un-cluttered.\", \"描述\": \"The insides of modern houses are usually designed to give the effect of large, open spaces. Use clean neutral-colored floors and natural materials like wood and stone to create the same sorts of spacious contrast that you used for the outside of the house. Simple stairs, high ceilings, minimal furniture, and glass openings to awnings and balconies can enhance this effect.\\nHave a wall without many windows? Show off your modern, artsy sensibility by showing off a selection of paintings. You can craft one from eight wooden sticks around a block of wool (any color).\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add a (square or rectangular) pool.\", \"描述\": \"Modern houses often seem to have a pool in the backyard — perhaps it's because this allows architects to play with an additional surface, adding a new dimension to their design. Don't forget that you'll need a bucket or two and a source of water if you want to fill your pool. You can craft a bucket from three iron ingots arranged in a \\\"V\\\" at the bottom of the crafting box.\\n\\nThis gorgeous mansion in Brazil has a simple but elegant rectangular pool mere steps away from an offset rectangular entertainment area — the perfect example of modern luxury.\\nUse a square or rectangular shape blocks for your pool so that it matches the right angles of the house. Keep it level with the ground.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ideas for Creative Projects\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Incorporate smooth curves and rounded surfaces.\", \"描述\": \"Minecraft's block-by-block building style makes it easy to replicate the \\\"squares and lines\\\" style of a modern house. More abstract living spaces that incorporate curves are a little trickier. This guide to making convincing circles and spheres in Minecraft can be a huge help when it comes to recreating these difficult shapes.\\n This house puts a curvy twist on the basic \\\"white surfaces and squares\\\" modern house design. The curved roof and overhangs give this swanky pad a sleek look — a little like a giant iPod.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use bold, daring mash-ups of geometric shapes.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to get adventurous with your house design, don't limit yourself to squares and rectangles. Tossing together odd combinations of shapes and surfaces can give your house a truly unique look. This is best for larger houses, as it's difficult to make clear, defined geometric shapes out of just a few blocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider \\\"impossible\\\" structures.\", \"描述\": \"If you really want to push the limits of what can be called a \\\"house,\\\" feel free to go absolutely nuts with your architecture. You don't have to worry about whether your house will actually stand up or not in Minecraft, so don't be afraid to unleash your creativity. You can even make floating houses by building a bridge out over a cliff or canyon, building your house on the bridge, and then getting rid of the blocks connecting it back to the cliff!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Incorporate well-manicured plant life into your house.\", \"描述\": \"A well-placed tree or garden can give your modern house a bit of natural flair. Plus, it's a good way to mimic the \\\"green\\\" designs that have become somewhat popular in modern architecture. If you connect a grassy area to an area of plain dirt with a string of connected dirt blocks, the grass will spread to the new area very slowly. You can use this to make unique gardens, like a lawn on your house's roof. You can also cut down wild flowers to collect them for your garden.\\nYou probably won't want to go for lush, sprawling gardens here — modern architecture tends to use tidy arrangements when it comes to plants.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider your building location for maximum impact.\", \"描述\": \"When it comes to making an amazing house, where you build can be just as important as what you build. There's no \\\"right\\\" place to put your modern house, but you may want to look out for especially exciting plots of land. Just a few location ideas include: on the beach, on the top of a hill or mountain, carved into the side of a cliff, on a platform in the ocean, or buried deep underground.\\n\\n Falling Water, the famous modern house built by architect Frank Lloyd Wright, is perched on top of a small creek and waterfall. The water flows underneath the house, making it not just a gorgeous sight but a serious feat of engineering as well.\\nYou can create servers to play with random Minecraft users from different devices.\\nFor example, you can use a Minecraft pocket edition server.\\nIt is a Minecraft world on the mobile version.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you want color, good colors for a modern house are gray (light/dark), lime, orange, brown, light blue, and cyan.\\n\", \"Torches give it an old fashioned look so make large windows with black stained glass to give some light in. If you want it to be a bit more private use sea lanterns or redstone lamps.\\n\", \"Make your house away from trees so any mobs will burn.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,443 |
How to Build a Modified Post and Beam Frame
|
1. Steps
1-1. Build upon a sturdy foundation.
A modified post and beam will work with pier, perimeter wall, and slab; even better is a pole foundation, where your posts are embedded deep in the ground (about 4'), and transfer the full weight of the building directly underground. This has great lateral stability.
1-2. Erect your posts; about 10' apart, in a grid.
Use 6x6's - 4x4's are too flimsy, and almost instantly twist and split in the sun. If there happens to be an old structure you can build upon, simply remove all the rotten horizontal members and keep the treated posts. Remove and replace boards a few at a time so they remain up for bracing as you go.
1-3. Get your posts plumb.
If you're putting them up new, brace them once they're plumb. If you're dealing with old posts, that have fallen out of plumb, use rope to straighten them. Attach the rope to the top of the post, with a nail nearby to keep the rope from slipping, and pull until it's plumb. Tie the rope off on nearby posts, trees - even your car if necessary and there's nothing else around.
1-4. Choose the right dimension boards for your beams.
The size of the boards used for beams depends on how far apart the posts are. 2x12 is typical for posts 10' apart with no other vertical support. If you have a stem wall and perimeter foundation, and you can put in additional studs to support the beam, 2x12 is unnecessary. 2x10 will be more than sufficient.
1-5. Decide your beam height.
Use a laser level to mark each post. Set the laser level on a raised level platform (like a portable saw station), and shoot and mark the red dot on each post, keeping the laser level perfectly level as you turn your aim from post to post. Once each post is marked, measure up exactly the same distance on each post that you've decided should be your beam height. Use a torpedo level to get a perfectly level line. This is where your vertical cleats will top out at, as they support the horizontal boards for the beams.
1-6. Attach your 2x6 cleats vertically to the posts.
If it's a freestanding pole foundation, make the cleats about 2' to 3' in length. The cleats will help carry the weight of the beams, and provide a spot to set your large-dimensioned horizontal boards before you fasten them. If you have a stem wall, run the cleats all the way down to the block for extra stability, and to further beef up the posts. If the cleat is touching the block, it should be treated (borate is fine). If this isn't possible, tack a piece of flashing to the bottom of the board. A small piece of foam insulation like 'seam sealer' could go in also.
1-7. Raise your first horizontal board for the beam.
Make sure the board goes 'crown-side' up, like joists, so that weight straightens the board and doesn't cause it to sag. The longer lumber is, the more likely it is to have a crook, and be slightly arched. The top of the arch goes up.
1-8. Use rope to raise the board if the beam placement is high, and the board is very heavy.
Set one end of the board up on a ladder, attach rope to it, and tie this to the top of the post it will be fastened to. Go over to the board end on the ground, walk this up a ladder, attach rope to it, and tie this to its post. Go back and forth raising the board until you get it up on your cleats. Use a rubber mallet to move the board into the correct position, and hold it there with either bungee cords or clamps.
1-9. Fasten the board.
Try a combination of big nails (16d, 3 1/2"), and long screws - 3" if possible. Clamp the board end to the post first so that it's tight and won't move as you fasten. However, hammering in large nails will cause a board to move even when it's clamped. So one trick is to clamp it, put a screw in to hold it in place, then put a nail in. Once the nail is in, withdraw the screw, then pound the nail so the board is all the way down and fast to the post. Then come back with screws. Stay away from the edges of the board with these large fasteners, and avoid the same grain in the wood, or the board will split. You want enough fasteners to hold the board in place, permanently, but not too much that it will stress the wood. For a 2x10 with a 2" to 3" overlap on the post, 5 staggered fasteners is fine, with no 2 fasteners in the same grain.
1-10. Do the same on the other side of the posts - 2 more cleats, and another horizontal board.
These two horizontal boards placed parallel on either side of the posts will compose the beam, with additional blocking. To find out where your cleats should top out at on the other side of the post, use a torpedo level to mark a level line from your original line around the post to the back. Attach boards with a variety of nails and screws, always clamping first so the boards are flush. If screws are cost-prohibitive, try ring-shank nails for serious hold . . . but they must be driven carefully, or they'll bend.
1-11. Put in studs to help support the beam if you have a perimeter stem wall.
Doubled 2x6's are very strong, and can be sistered (joined flush) with drywall screws and inexpensive spiral nails. Measure the sill plate and mark out where the studs will go. If your posts are 10' to 12' apart, try 2 doubled studs evenly dividing the space into thirds. This will leave you plenty of room for windows. Use metal angles to anchor the studs to the sill plate - it's much better than toe-nailing. Get the studs plumb, clamp them, and fasten. Bar clamps are the easiest to work with, though C clamps and pipe clamps will work also.
1-12. Notch out the top of the studs so they interlock with the boards in the beams.
This way the wood and not just the fasteners take the weight. Use a jigsaw to finish the cuts.
1-13. Continue framing around the corner, with cleats, parallel boards for beams, and doubled studs if possible.
Where a horizontal board butts in to another board, and can't be attached to a post, use a joist hanger:
1-14. Follow this framing pattern throughout the perimeter.
But for stability, work at one square at a time, tying 4 posts together in a square. Run parallel beams through the center posts of the structure. Joists will be hung from these parallel beams. Blocking composed of doubled scraps of 2x6 is placed every 24" o.c. within the beams to stiffen them. Joists will tie directly into this blocking.
1-15. Run 2x6 bracing in the opposite direction of your beams.
Joists simply sit in hangers, and take weight from above - they do not pull the structure together. Run the braces just under the beams so they can double as cleats for the center beam boards, and provide additional nailing surface, as well as spots for metal connections such as metal angles.
1-16. Make sure the center posts look like this, with 2x6 bracing run underneath the beams, all of it tied together with fasteners and metal angles.
Both the bracing and the beams will get blocking.
1-17. Tie the 2x6 bracing into the perimeter framing like this:
1-18. Continue to work square by square . . .
1-19. Place an X-frame over a garage or barn doors to support the weight.
The diagonal bracing is 2x6 and the bottom header is composed of 2x8's.
1-20. Follow the same techniques of cleats, beams, and blocking, until the majority of the structure is stabilized.
If additional studs were not compatible with your design, use diagonal braces and/or girts to strengthen the walls, and to provide surfaces to nail sheathing.
1-21. Put in the joists, once the frame is finished.
2x10's spaced 24"o.c. with bridging will easily take the weight of an upper story. The frame will look like this:
Tips
Brush on sealant if you cannot finish or 'dry in' the structure before winter, and make sure everything is fastened tightly.
Be your own engineer. You can find solutions for what you wish to build if you do enough research. Download free pole barn plans, horse barn plans - these are often compatible with a modified post and beam. Look at the framing in kits, go visit some old pole barns and study them - check out how post and beam dwellings are being framed today. Remember, "When in doubt, overbuild." The few hundred extra you spend in materials will only give you a sturdier building, and is far less than the thousands you'll spend hiring outside parties to find solutions for you.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:50",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Build upon a sturdy foundation.\\nA modified post and beam will work with pier, perimeter wall, and slab; even better is a pole foundation, where your posts are embedded deep in the ground (about 4'), and transfer the full weight of the building directly underground. This has great lateral stability.\\n1-2. Erect your posts; about 10' apart, in a grid.\\nUse 6x6's - 4x4's are too flimsy, and almost instantly twist and split in the sun. If there happens to be an old structure you can build upon, simply remove all the rotten horizontal members and keep the treated posts. Remove and replace boards a few at a time so they remain up for bracing as you go.\\n1-3. Get your posts plumb.\\nIf you're putting them up new, brace them once they're plumb. If you're dealing with old posts, that have fallen out of plumb, use rope to straighten them. Attach the rope to the top of the post, with a nail nearby to keep the rope from slipping, and pull until it's plumb. Tie the rope off on nearby posts, trees - even your car if necessary and there's nothing else around.\\n1-4. Choose the right dimension boards for your beams.\\nThe size of the boards used for beams depends on how far apart the posts are. 2x12 is typical for posts 10' apart with no other vertical support. If you have a stem wall and perimeter foundation, and you can put in additional studs to support the beam, 2x12 is unnecessary. 2x10 will be more than sufficient.\\n1-5. Decide your beam height.\\nUse a laser level to mark each post. Set the laser level on a raised level platform (like a portable saw station), and shoot and mark the red dot on each post, keeping the laser level perfectly level as you turn your aim from post to post. Once each post is marked, measure up exactly the same distance on each post that you've decided should be your beam height. Use a torpedo level to get a perfectly level line. This is where your vertical cleats will top out at, as they support the horizontal boards for the beams.\\n1-6. Attach your 2x6 cleats vertically to the posts.\\nIf it's a freestanding pole foundation, make the cleats about 2' to 3' in length. The cleats will help carry the weight of the beams, and provide a spot to set your large-dimensioned horizontal boards before you fasten them. If you have a stem wall, run the cleats all the way down to the block for extra stability, and to further beef up the posts. If the cleat is touching the block, it should be treated (borate is fine). If this isn't possible, tack a piece of flashing to the bottom of the board. A small piece of foam insulation like 'seam sealer' could go in also.\\n1-7. Raise your first horizontal board for the beam.\\nMake sure the board goes 'crown-side' up, like joists, so that weight straightens the board and doesn't cause it to sag. The longer lumber is, the more likely it is to have a crook, and be slightly arched. The top of the arch goes up.\\n1-8. Use rope to raise the board if the beam placement is high, and the board is very heavy.\\nSet one end of the board up on a ladder, attach rope to it, and tie this to the top of the post it will be fastened to. Go over to the board end on the ground, walk this up a ladder, attach rope to it, and tie this to its post. Go back and forth raising the board until you get it up on your cleats. Use a rubber mallet to move the board into the correct position, and hold it there with either bungee cords or clamps.\\n1-9. Fasten the board.\\nTry a combination of big nails (16d, 3 1/2\\\"), and long screws - 3\\\" if possible. Clamp the board end to the post first so that it's tight and won't move as you fasten. However, hammering in large nails will cause a board to move even when it's clamped. So one trick is to clamp it, put a screw in to hold it in place, then put a nail in. Once the nail is in, withdraw the screw, then pound the nail so the board is all the way down and fast to the post. Then come back with screws. Stay away from the edges of the board with these large fasteners, and avoid the same grain in the wood, or the board will split. You want enough fasteners to hold the board in place, permanently, but not too much that it will stress the wood. For a 2x10 with a 2\\\" to 3\\\" overlap on the post, 5 staggered fasteners is fine, with no 2 fasteners in the same grain.\\n1-10. Do the same on the other side of the posts - 2 more cleats, and another horizontal board.\\nThese two horizontal boards placed parallel on either side of the posts will compose the beam, with additional blocking. To find out where your cleats should top out at on the other side of the post, use a torpedo level to mark a level line from your original line around the post to the back. Attach boards with a variety of nails and screws, always clamping first so the boards are flush. If screws are cost-prohibitive, try ring-shank nails for serious hold . . . but they must be driven carefully, or they'll bend.\\n1-11. Put in studs to help support the beam if you have a perimeter stem wall.\\nDoubled 2x6's are very strong, and can be sistered (joined flush) with drywall screws and inexpensive spiral nails. Measure the sill plate and mark out where the studs will go. If your posts are 10' to 12' apart, try 2 doubled studs evenly dividing the space into thirds. This will leave you plenty of room for windows. Use metal angles to anchor the studs to the sill plate - it's much better than toe-nailing. Get the studs plumb, clamp them, and fasten. Bar clamps are the easiest to work with, though C clamps and pipe clamps will work also.\\n1-12. Notch out the top of the studs so they interlock with the boards in the beams.\\nThis way the wood and not just the fasteners take the weight. Use a jigsaw to finish the cuts.\\n1-13. Continue framing around the corner, with cleats, parallel boards for beams, and doubled studs if possible.\\nWhere a horizontal board butts in to another board, and can't be attached to a post, use a joist hanger:\\n1-14. Follow this framing pattern throughout the perimeter.\\nBut for stability, work at one square at a time, tying 4 posts together in a square. Run parallel beams through the center posts of the structure. Joists will be hung from these parallel beams. Blocking composed of doubled scraps of 2x6 is placed every 24\\\" o.c. within the beams to stiffen them. Joists will tie directly into this blocking.\\n1-15. Run 2x6 bracing in the opposite direction of your beams.\\nJoists simply sit in hangers, and take weight from above - they do not pull the structure together. Run the braces just under the beams so they can double as cleats for the center beam boards, and provide additional nailing surface, as well as spots for metal connections such as metal angles.\\n1-16. Make sure the center posts look like this, with 2x6 bracing run underneath the beams, all of it tied together with fasteners and metal angles.\\nBoth the bracing and the beams will get blocking.\\n1-17. Tie the 2x6 bracing into the perimeter framing like this:\\n\\n1-18. Continue to work square by square . . .\\n\\n1-19. Place an X-frame over a garage or barn doors to support the weight.\\nThe diagonal bracing is 2x6 and the bottom header is composed of 2x8's.\\n1-20. Follow the same techniques of cleats, beams, and blocking, until the majority of the structure is stabilized.\\nIf additional studs were not compatible with your design, use diagonal braces and/or girts to strengthen the walls, and to provide surfaces to nail sheathing.\\n1-21. Put in the joists, once the frame is finished.\\n2x10's spaced 24\\\"o.c. with bridging will easily take the weight of an upper story. The frame will look like this:\\nTips\\nBrush on sealant if you cannot finish or 'dry in' the structure before winter, and make sure everything is fastened tightly.\\nBe your own engineer. You can find solutions for what you wish to build if you do enough research. Download free pole barn plans, horse barn plans - these are often compatible with a modified post and beam. Look at the framing in kits, go visit some old pole barns and study them - check out how post and beam dwellings are being framed today. Remember, \\\"When in doubt, overbuild.\\\" The few hundred extra you spend in materials will only give you a sturdier building, and is far less than the thousands you'll spend hiring outside parties to find solutions for you.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you want the look and strength of timber framing, without the cost and hassle, try a modified post and beam. Traditional timber framing requires very complex joinery, and both timber framing and post and beam use heavy members that one can't hoist alone. However, a modified post and beam can be built almost entirely out of cheap lightweight 2\\\"x boards - and the joinery is simply cleats and fasteners. The boards wrap a skeleton of posts, and scrap-end blocking is used to create beams.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build upon a sturdy foundation.\", \"描述\": \"A modified post and beam will work with pier, perimeter wall, and slab; even better is a pole foundation, where your posts are embedded deep in the ground (about 4'), and transfer the full weight of the building directly underground. This has great lateral stability.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Erect your posts; about 10' apart, in a grid.\", \"描述\": \"Use 6x6's - 4x4's are too flimsy, and almost instantly twist and split in the sun. If there happens to be an old structure you can build upon, simply remove all the rotten horizontal members and keep the treated posts. Remove and replace boards a few at a time so they remain up for bracing as you go.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get your posts plumb.\", \"描述\": \"If you're putting them up new, brace them once they're plumb. If you're dealing with old posts, that have fallen out of plumb, use rope to straighten them. Attach the rope to the top of the post, with a nail nearby to keep the rope from slipping, and pull until it's plumb. Tie the rope off on nearby posts, trees - even your car if necessary and there's nothing else around.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose the right dimension boards for your beams.\", \"描述\": \"The size of the boards used for beams depends on how far apart the posts are. 2x12 is typical for posts 10' apart with no other vertical support. If you have a stem wall and perimeter foundation, and you can put in additional studs to support the beam, 2x12 is unnecessary. 2x10 will be more than sufficient.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Decide your beam height.\", \"描述\": \"Use a laser level to mark each post. Set the laser level on a raised level platform (like a portable saw station), and shoot and mark the red dot on each post, keeping the laser level perfectly level as you turn your aim from post to post. Once each post is marked, measure up exactly the same distance on each post that you've decided should be your beam height. Use a torpedo level to get a perfectly level line. This is where your vertical cleats will top out at, as they support the horizontal boards for the beams.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach your 2x6 cleats vertically to the posts.\", \"描述\": \"If it's a freestanding pole foundation, make the cleats about 2' to 3' in length. The cleats will help carry the weight of the beams, and provide a spot to set your large-dimensioned horizontal boards before you fasten them. If you have a stem wall, run the cleats all the way down to the block for extra stability, and to further beef up the posts. If the cleat is touching the block, it should be treated (borate is fine). If this isn't possible, tack a piece of flashing to the bottom of the board. A small piece of foam insulation like 'seam sealer' could go in also.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Raise your first horizontal board for the beam.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the board goes 'crown-side' up, like joists, so that weight straightens the board and doesn't cause it to sag. The longer lumber is, the more likely it is to have a crook, and be slightly arched. The top of the arch goes up.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Use rope to raise the board if the beam placement is high, and the board is very heavy.\", \"描述\": \"Set one end of the board up on a ladder, attach rope to it, and tie this to the top of the post it will be fastened to. Go over to the board end on the ground, walk this up a ladder, attach rope to it, and tie this to its post. Go back and forth raising the board until you get it up on your cleats. Use a rubber mallet to move the board into the correct position, and hold it there with either bungee cords or clamps.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Fasten the board.\", \"描述\": \"Try a combination of big nails (16d, 3 1/2\\\"), and long screws - 3\\\" if possible. Clamp the board end to the post first so that it's tight and won't move as you fasten. However, hammering in large nails will cause a board to move even when it's clamped. So one trick is to clamp it, put a screw in to hold it in place, then put a nail in. Once the nail is in, withdraw the screw, then pound the nail so the board is all the way down and fast to the post. Then come back with screws. Stay away from the edges of the board with these large fasteners, and avoid the same grain in the wood, or the board will split. You want enough fasteners to hold the board in place, permanently, but not too much that it will stress the wood. For a 2x10 with a 2\\\" to 3\\\" overlap on the post, 5 staggered fasteners is fine, with no 2 fasteners in the same grain.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Do the same on the other side of the posts - 2 more cleats, and another horizontal board.\", \"描述\": \"These two horizontal boards placed parallel on either side of the posts will compose the beam, with additional blocking. To find out where your cleats should top out at on the other side of the post, use a torpedo level to mark a level line from your original line around the post to the back. Attach boards with a variety of nails and screws, always clamping first so the boards are flush. If screws are cost-prohibitive, try ring-shank nails for serious hold . . . but they must be driven carefully, or they'll bend.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Put in studs to help support the beam if you have a perimeter stem wall.\", \"描述\": \"Doubled 2x6's are very strong, and can be sistered (joined flush) with drywall screws and inexpensive spiral nails. Measure the sill plate and mark out where the studs will go. If your posts are 10' to 12' apart, try 2 doubled studs evenly dividing the space into thirds. This will leave you plenty of room for windows. Use metal angles to anchor the studs to the sill plate - it's much better than toe-nailing. Get the studs plumb, clamp them, and fasten. Bar clamps are the easiest to work with, though C clamps and pipe clamps will work also.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Notch out the top of the studs so they interlock with the boards in the beams.\", \"描述\": \"This way the wood and not just the fasteners take the weight. Use a jigsaw to finish the cuts.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Continue framing around the corner, with cleats, parallel boards for beams, and doubled studs if possible.\", \"描述\": \"Where a horizontal board butts in to another board, and can't be attached to a post, use a joist hanger:\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Follow this framing pattern throughout the perimeter.\", \"描述\": \"But for stability, work at one square at a time, tying 4 posts together in a square. Run parallel beams through the center posts of the structure. Joists will be hung from these parallel beams. Blocking composed of doubled scraps of 2x6 is placed every 24\\\" o.c. within the beams to stiffen them. Joists will tie directly into this blocking.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Run 2x6 bracing in the opposite direction of your beams.\", \"描述\": \"Joists simply sit in hangers, and take weight from above - they do not pull the structure together. Run the braces just under the beams so they can double as cleats for the center beam boards, and provide additional nailing surface, as well as spots for metal connections such as metal angles.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Make sure the center posts look like this, with 2x6 bracing run underneath the beams, all of it tied together with fasteners and metal angles.\", \"描述\": \"Both the bracing and the beams will get blocking.\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Tie the 2x6 bracing into the perimeter framing like this:\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Continue to work square by square . . .\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"Place an X-frame over a garage or barn doors to support the weight.\", \"描述\": \"The diagonal bracing is 2x6 and the bottom header is composed of 2x8's.\"}, {\"编号\": 20, \"标题\": \"Follow the same techniques of cleats, beams, and blocking, until the majority of the structure is stabilized.\", \"描述\": \"If additional studs were not compatible with your design, use diagonal braces and/or girts to strengthen the walls, and to provide surfaces to nail sheathing.\"}, {\"编号\": 21, \"标题\": \"Put in the joists, once the frame is finished.\", \"描述\": \"2x10's spaced 24\\\"o.c. with bridging will easily take the weight of an upper story. The frame will look like this:\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Brush on sealant if you cannot finish or 'dry in' the structure before winter, and make sure everything is fastened tightly.\\n\", \"Be your own engineer. You can find solutions for what you wish to build if you do enough research. Download free pole barn plans, horse barn plans - these are often compatible with a modified post and beam. Look at the framing in kits, go visit some old pole barns and study them - check out how post and beam dwellings are being framed today. Remember, \\\"When in doubt, overbuild.\\\" The few hundred extra you spend in materials will only give you a sturdier building, and is far less than the thousands you'll spend hiring outside parties to find solutions for you.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,444 |
How to Build a Montessori Bed
|
1. What is a Montessori bed?
It’s a floor bed designed for toddlers.
The Montessori bed is actually named after Maria Montessori, an Italian physician who believed that children best learn and grow when given a lot of independence. The Montessori bed follows this free-spirited philosophy, and gives little ones the chance to safely explore and interact with their surroundings.
2. Why are Montessori beds on the floor?
They’re designed to give your child more independence.
A floor-style bed makes it easy for your child to leave their bed and explore their surroundings without getting hurt. Montessori beds also provide a sense of coziness and security for your little one without caging them in like a crib or bassinet would.
3. How do you make a Montessori bed?
3-1. Create a basic framework first.
Get four 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) posts that are 36 in (91.44 cm) long and cut one end of each post to a 45-degree angle. Lay the posts on the floor with the angle ends facing away from each other, and put two 2 in (5.08 cm) by 4 in (10.16 cm) planks that are 52 in (132.08 cm) long between them. Secure the planks and posts together with wood screws and wood glue.
3-2. Build the base frame next.
Separate the 2 frameworks that you just made so they’re 27 in (69 cm) apart. Then, grab two 2 (5.08 cm) by 4 in (10.16 cm) planks that are 27 in (68.58 cm) long. Secure the two 27 in (68.58 cm) planks between the framework with wood glue and wood screws, which creates a large, rectangular frame.
3-3. Finish the frame with extra planks and wood slats.
Get three 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) planks that are 49 (124.46 cm) long. Place these planks vertically along the inner bed frame, with 2 planks flush with the left and right sides of the outer frame. Attach these planks with wood screws and wood glue. Then, nail fourteen 1 in (2.54 cm) by 4 in (10.16 cm) planks that are 27 in (68.58 cm) long on top of the wooden frame.
4. How do I give my Montessori bed a roof?
4-1. Create a roof with 4 pieces of angled wood.
Set aside two 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) planks that are 22 ¾ in (55.79 cm) long, as well as two 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) planks that are 21 ¼ in (53.98 cm) long. Then, cut 1 end of every plank at a 45-degree angle. Place 1 short and 1 long plank on top of the back posts, layering them in an inverted V shape. Secure the planks in place with wood screws and glue, and then repeat the same process with the front 2 posts.
4-2. Install rails along the roof for extra support.
Set aside two 47 in (119.38 cm) planks and secure them along both sides of the roof with wood glue and wood screws, directly beneath the inverted V-shape roof pieces. Then, secure a 2 in (5.08 cm) by 2 in (5.08 cm) plank that is 47 in (119.38 cm) long 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) plank across the very top of the roof, connecting the pointed roof sections together.
5. At what age can kids start sleeping on a Montessori bed?
Older babies and toddlers can sleep on a Montessori bed.
There isn’t a hard and fast recommendation—it ultimately depends on your child’s sleeping habits, as well as your own personal preferences. Some parents prefer to put their babies to bed in a bassinet or crib until they’re 9 months old. Other parents recommend waiting until your child is at least 2 before letting your little one sleep on a floor bed. If you’re feeling a bit undecided, ask your child’s pediatrician for a recommendation.
For instance, if your baby wakes up a lot in the middle of the night, iron out their sleeping schedule before transitioning to a floor bed.
6. Do Montessori beds come in different sizes?
Yes, they do.
Many Montessori beds come in a twin size. However, you can order custom bed frames for other sizes as well. Check custom online shops, like Etsy, to see what your options are.
If you’re making your own Montessori bed, you can build it whichever size you’d like!
7. Can a Montessori bed simply be a mattress on the floor?
Yes, it can.
You don’t need a bed frame to make a Montessori bed. What matters most is that the mattress is close to the floor, so your child can climb in and out of it safely.
8. Where should I place my Montessori bed?
You can place it along a wall or in the center of your child’s bedroom.
There are no hard and fast rules, as long as your little one has easy access to the bed. If you choose to place the bed against the wall, keep it flush so your child won’t slip and get stuck between the wall and the mattress.
9. Can you put blankets and toys on a Montessori bed?
Yes, if your child is more than 6 months old.
If your child is younger than that, only put a fitted sheet over the mattress, so they can sleep safely and comfortably.
10. What type of mattress should I use?
10-1. Choose a crib mattress if your baby is using the bed.
Crib mattresses are super firm, and can protect against Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS). If your child is 1 year old or younger, definitely pick out a crib mattress instead of a standard one.
For toddlers and older babies, shop for any mattress that has a “firm” label or rating.
10-2. Pick a firm, twin or full mattress if your toddler uses the bed.
Shop for any mattresses with a “firm” label, so your little one can sleep safely and comfortably. You can pick out a twin or full mattress, as long as there’s enough space in your room.You can share a Montessori bed with your child; however, wait until your child is out of the infant phase before you do this.
11. How do I know if my bed is set up safely?
Check if your child can get out of bed without hurting themselves.
The Montessori bed should be very close to the ground, so your child won’t get hurt if they accidentally roll out of bed during the night. Also, the bed should be easy for your child to climb into on their own.
12. What other safety considerations should I keep in mind?
Take plenty of time to child-proof the bedroom.
The Montessori philosophy is all about giving your child the freedom to explore and move around their living space. With this in mind, go through your little one’s bedroom with a fine-tooth comb before letting them sleep in their new bed. Hide or get rid of any electrical cords, cover any electrical outlets, and secure any furniture to the walls—this way, your child won’t be in danger if they choose to wander around the room.
Additionally, look for any small toys or objects that could be a choking hazard.
13. How can I make a Montessori bedroom for my child?
13-1. Install accessible furniture.
Add a 1-2 layer shelf along the floor of your child’s room. Arrange your little one’s favorite toys on these shelves, so your child can grab them easily. Be sure to secure these shelves to the wall, so they won’t tip over.
If your child is still crawling, hang up a mirror with a pull-up bar that they can easily reach. This can help them practice standing on their own, and eventually help them learn to walk.
13-2. Display low-hanging art on the walls.
Measure your child’s height, and figure out what qualifies as “eye-level” for them. Use these measurements to securely attach different pieces of art along the wall, so your child can admire them comfortably.Check that the wall art pieces don’t have any sharp edges or pointy corners before hanging them up.
Warnings
Check that there’s enough open space surrounding the bed, so air can flow freely around the mattress, frame and bedding. This way, mold isn’t as likely to form.[22]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:50",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. What is a Montessori bed?\\nIt’s a floor bed designed for toddlers.\\nThe Montessori bed is actually named after Maria Montessori, an Italian physician who believed that children best learn and grow when given a lot of independence. The Montessori bed follows this free-spirited philosophy, and gives little ones the chance to safely explore and interact with their surroundings.\\n2. Why are Montessori beds on the floor?\\nThey’re designed to give your child more independence.\\nA floor-style bed makes it easy for your child to leave their bed and explore their surroundings without getting hurt. Montessori beds also provide a sense of coziness and security for your little one without caging them in like a crib or bassinet would.\\n3. How do you make a Montessori bed?\\n3-1. Create a basic framework first.\\nGet four 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) posts that are 36 in (91.44 cm) long and cut one end of each post to a 45-degree angle. Lay the posts on the floor with the angle ends facing away from each other, and put two 2 in (5.08 cm) by 4 in (10.16 cm) planks that are 52 in (132.08 cm) long between them. Secure the planks and posts together with wood screws and wood glue.\\n3-2. Build the base frame next.\\nSeparate the 2 frameworks that you just made so they’re 27 in (69 cm) apart. Then, grab two 2 (5.08 cm) by 4 in (10.16 cm) planks that are 27 in (68.58 cm) long. Secure the two 27 in (68.58 cm) planks between the framework with wood glue and wood screws, which creates a large, rectangular frame.\\n3-3. Finish the frame with extra planks and wood slats.\\nGet three 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) planks that are 49 (124.46 cm) long. Place these planks vertically along the inner bed frame, with 2 planks flush with the left and right sides of the outer frame. Attach these planks with wood screws and wood glue. Then, nail fourteen 1 in (2.54 cm) by 4 in (10.16 cm) planks that are 27 in (68.58 cm) long on top of the wooden frame.\\n4. How do I give my Montessori bed a roof?\\n4-1. Create a roof with 4 pieces of angled wood.\\nSet aside two 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) planks that are 22 ¾ in (55.79 cm) long, as well as two 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) planks that are 21 ¼ in (53.98 cm) long. Then, cut 1 end of every plank at a 45-degree angle. Place 1 short and 1 long plank on top of the back posts, layering them in an inverted V shape. Secure the planks in place with wood screws and glue, and then repeat the same process with the front 2 posts.\\n4-2. Install rails along the roof for extra support.\\nSet aside two 47 in (119.38 cm) planks and secure them along both sides of the roof with wood glue and wood screws, directly beneath the inverted V-shape roof pieces. Then, secure a 2 in (5.08 cm) by 2 in (5.08 cm) plank that is 47 in (119.38 cm) long 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) plank across the very top of the roof, connecting the pointed roof sections together.\\n5. At what age can kids start sleeping on a Montessori bed?\\nOlder babies and toddlers can sleep on a Montessori bed.\\nThere isn’t a hard and fast recommendation—it ultimately depends on your child’s sleeping habits, as well as your own personal preferences. Some parents prefer to put their babies to bed in a bassinet or crib until they’re 9 months old. Other parents recommend waiting until your child is at least 2 before letting your little one sleep on a floor bed. If you’re feeling a bit undecided, ask your child’s pediatrician for a recommendation.\\nFor instance, if your baby wakes up a lot in the middle of the night, iron out their sleeping schedule before transitioning to a floor bed.\\n6. Do Montessori beds come in different sizes?\\nYes, they do.\\nMany Montessori beds come in a twin size. However, you can order custom bed frames for other sizes as well. Check custom online shops, like Etsy, to see what your options are.\\nIf you’re making your own Montessori bed, you can build it whichever size you’d like!\\n7. Can a Montessori bed simply be a mattress on the floor?\\nYes, it can.\\nYou don’t need a bed frame to make a Montessori bed. What matters most is that the mattress is close to the floor, so your child can climb in and out of it safely.\\n8. Where should I place my Montessori bed?\\nYou can place it along a wall or in the center of your child’s bedroom.\\nThere are no hard and fast rules, as long as your little one has easy access to the bed. If you choose to place the bed against the wall, keep it flush so your child won’t slip and get stuck between the wall and the mattress.\\n9. Can you put blankets and toys on a Montessori bed?\\nYes, if your child is more than 6 months old.\\nIf your child is younger than that, only put a fitted sheet over the mattress, so they can sleep safely and comfortably.\\n10. What type of mattress should I use?\\n10-1. Choose a crib mattress if your baby is using the bed.\\nCrib mattresses are super firm, and can protect against Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS). If your child is 1 year old or younger, definitely pick out a crib mattress instead of a standard one.\\nFor toddlers and older babies, shop for any mattress that has a “firm” label or rating.\\n10-2. Pick a firm, twin or full mattress if your toddler uses the bed.\\nShop for any mattresses with a “firm” label, so your little one can sleep safely and comfortably. You can pick out a twin or full mattress, as long as there’s enough space in your room.You can share a Montessori bed with your child; however, wait until your child is out of the infant phase before you do this.\\n11. How do I know if my bed is set up safely?\\nCheck if your child can get out of bed without hurting themselves.\\nThe Montessori bed should be very close to the ground, so your child won’t get hurt if they accidentally roll out of bed during the night. Also, the bed should be easy for your child to climb into on their own.\\n12. What other safety considerations should I keep in mind?\\nTake plenty of time to child-proof the bedroom.\\nThe Montessori philosophy is all about giving your child the freedom to explore and move around their living space. With this in mind, go through your little one’s bedroom with a fine-tooth comb before letting them sleep in their new bed. Hide or get rid of any electrical cords, cover any electrical outlets, and secure any furniture to the walls—this way, your child won’t be in danger if they choose to wander around the room.\\nAdditionally, look for any small toys or objects that could be a choking hazard.\\n13. How can I make a Montessori bedroom for my child?\\n13-1. Install accessible furniture.\\nAdd a 1-2 layer shelf along the floor of your child’s room. Arrange your little one’s favorite toys on these shelves, so your child can grab them easily. Be sure to secure these shelves to the wall, so they won’t tip over.\\nIf your child is still crawling, hang up a mirror with a pull-up bar that they can easily reach. This can help them practice standing on their own, and eventually help them learn to walk.\\n13-2. Display low-hanging art on the walls.\\nMeasure your child’s height, and figure out what qualifies as “eye-level” for them. Use these measurements to securely attach different pieces of art along the wall, so your child can admire them comfortably.Check that the wall art pieces don’t have any sharp edges or pointy corners before hanging them up.\\nWarnings\\nCheck that there’s enough open space surrounding the bed, so air can flow freely around the mattress, frame and bedding. This way, mold isn’t as likely to form.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A Montessori bed, or floor bed, embraces the Montessori educational philosophy of independence and accountability for children. This type of bed can be an excellent addition to your young child’s bedroom, and offers them a lot of freedom to explore their surroundings. If you’re ready to make the switch, we’ve got you covered! Keep reading as we answer all your questions about your little one’s new sleeping arrangements.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"What is a Montessori bed?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It’s a floor bed designed for toddlers.\", \"描述\": \"The Montessori bed is actually named after Maria Montessori, an Italian physician who believed that children best learn and grow when given a lot of independence. The Montessori bed follows this free-spirited philosophy, and gives little ones the chance to safely explore and interact with their surroundings.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Why are Montessori beds on the floor?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"They’re designed to give your child more independence.\", \"描述\": \"A floor-style bed makes it easy for your child to leave their bed and explore their surroundings without getting hurt. Montessori beds also provide a sense of coziness and security for your little one without caging them in like a crib or bassinet would.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"How do you make a Montessori bed?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a basic framework first.\", \"描述\": \"Get four 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) posts that are 36 in (91.44 cm) long and cut one end of each post to a 45-degree angle. Lay the posts on the floor with the angle ends facing away from each other, and put two 2 in (5.08 cm) by 4 in (10.16 cm) planks that are 52 in (132.08 cm) long between them. Secure the planks and posts together with wood screws and wood glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the base frame next.\", \"描述\": \"Separate the 2 frameworks that you just made so they’re 27 in (69 cm) apart. Then, grab two 2 (5.08 cm) by 4 in (10.16 cm) planks that are 27 in (68.58 cm) long. Secure the two 27 in (68.58 cm) planks between the framework with wood glue and wood screws, which creates a large, rectangular frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finish the frame with extra planks and wood slats.\", \"描述\": \"Get three 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) planks that are 49 (124.46 cm) long. Place these planks vertically along the inner bed frame, with 2 planks flush with the left and right sides of the outer frame. Attach these planks with wood screws and wood glue. Then, nail fourteen 1 in (2.54 cm) by 4 in (10.16 cm) planks that are 27 in (68.58 cm) long on top of the wooden frame.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"How do I give my Montessori bed a roof?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a roof with 4 pieces of angled wood.\", \"描述\": \"Set aside two 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) planks that are 22 ¾ in (55.79 cm) long, as well as two 2 in (5.08 cm) by 3 in (7.62 cm) planks that are 21 ¼ in (53.98 cm) long. Then, cut 1 end of every plank at a 45-degree angle. Place 1 short and 1 long plank on top of the back posts, layering them in an inverted V shape. Secure the planks in place with wood screws and glue, and then repeat the same process with the front 2 posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install rails along the roof for extra support.\", \"描述\": \"Set aside two 47 in (119.38 cm) planks and secure them along both sides of the roof with wood glue and wood screws, directly beneath the inverted V-shape roof pieces. Then, secure a 2 in (5.08 cm) by 2 in (5.08 cm) plank that is 47 in (119.38 cm) long 2 by 2 in (5.1 by 5.1 cm) plank across the very top of the roof, connecting the pointed roof sections together.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"At what age can kids start sleeping on a Montessori bed?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Older babies and toddlers can sleep on a Montessori bed.\", \"描述\": \"There isn’t a hard and fast recommendation—it ultimately depends on your child’s sleeping habits, as well as your own personal preferences. Some parents prefer to put their babies to bed in a bassinet or crib until they’re 9 months old. Other parents recommend waiting until your child is at least 2 before letting your little one sleep on a floor bed. If you’re feeling a bit undecided, ask your child’s pediatrician for a recommendation.\\nFor instance, if your baby wakes up a lot in the middle of the night, iron out their sleeping schedule before transitioning to a floor bed.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Do Montessori beds come in different sizes?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Yes, they do.\", \"描述\": \"Many Montessori beds come in a twin size. However, you can order custom bed frames for other sizes as well. Check custom online shops, like Etsy, to see what your options are.\\nIf you’re making your own Montessori bed, you can build it whichever size you’d like!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Can a Montessori bed simply be a mattress on the floor?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Yes, it can.\", \"描述\": \"You don’t need a bed frame to make a Montessori bed. What matters most is that the mattress is close to the floor, so your child can climb in and out of it safely.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Where should I place my Montessori bed?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You can place it along a wall or in the center of your child’s bedroom.\", \"描述\": \"There are no hard and fast rules, as long as your little one has easy access to the bed. If you choose to place the bed against the wall, keep it flush so your child won’t slip and get stuck between the wall and the mattress.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Can you put blankets and toys on a Montessori bed?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Yes, if your child is more than 6 months old.\", \"描述\": \"If your child is younger than that, only put a fitted sheet over the mattress, so they can sleep safely and comfortably.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"What type of mattress should I use?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a crib mattress if your baby is using the bed.\", \"描述\": \"Crib mattresses are super firm, and can protect against Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS). If your child is 1 year old or younger, definitely pick out a crib mattress instead of a standard one.\\nFor toddlers and older babies, shop for any mattress that has a “firm” label or rating.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick a firm, twin or full mattress if your toddler uses the bed.\", \"描述\": \"Shop for any mattresses with a “firm” label, so your little one can sleep safely and comfortably. You can pick out a twin or full mattress, as long as there’s enough space in your room.You can share a Montessori bed with your child; however, wait until your child is out of the infant phase before you do this.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"How do I know if my bed is set up safely?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check if your child can get out of bed without hurting themselves.\", \"描述\": \"The Montessori bed should be very close to the ground, so your child won’t get hurt if they accidentally roll out of bed during the night. Also, the bed should be easy for your child to climb into on their own.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"What other safety considerations should I keep in mind?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take plenty of time to child-proof the bedroom.\", \"描述\": \"The Montessori philosophy is all about giving your child the freedom to explore and move around their living space. With this in mind, go through your little one’s bedroom with a fine-tooth comb before letting them sleep in their new bed. Hide or get rid of any electrical cords, cover any electrical outlets, and secure any furniture to the walls—this way, your child won’t be in danger if they choose to wander around the room.\\nAdditionally, look for any small toys or objects that could be a choking hazard.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"How can I make a Montessori bedroom for my child?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install accessible furniture.\", \"描述\": \"Add a 1-2 layer shelf along the floor of your child’s room. Arrange your little one’s favorite toys on these shelves, so your child can grab them easily. Be sure to secure these shelves to the wall, so they won’t tip over.\\nIf your child is still crawling, hang up a mirror with a pull-up bar that they can easily reach. This can help them practice standing on their own, and eventually help them learn to walk.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Display low-hanging art on the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Measure your child’s height, and figure out what qualifies as “eye-level” for them. Use these measurements to securely attach different pieces of art along the wall, so your child can admire them comfortably.Check that the wall art pieces don’t have any sharp edges or pointy corners before hanging them up.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Check that there’s enough open space surrounding the bed, so air can flow freely around the mattress, frame and bedding. This way, mold isn’t as likely to form.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,445 |
How to Build a Mortarless Concrete Stem Wall
|
1. Measuring and Creating the Perimeter
1-1. Obtain any necessary construction permits.
Building a wall this size is a potentially significant construction project, and some localities will require a permit. Investigate local laws and see if you need a permit for this project. If so, go through all the steps of obtaining the permit before starting construction to avoid fines or other legal trouble.
Checking with your local building department is a good place to start.
If you know a local contractor or engineer, they are likely aware of regulations in your area. You can also ask them if there are certain regulations you have to meet.
1-2. Measure and mark the perimeter of your structure.
The stem wall should form part of the foundation on your structure, so build it along the planned structure perimeter. Start by measuring out that perimeter. Then mark that border on the ground.
If you’re planning a 10 feet (3.0 m) x 10 feet (3.0 m) shed, measure out these dimensions and mark them in the ground. Plan on starting your stem wall on this perimeter.
1-3. Calculate how many bricks you need.
After you've planned the perimeter for your wall, you can calculate the amount of materials you need. First, calculate the cubic feet of the wall you’re planning. The formula for cubic feet is length x width x height. Use this formula for each section of your stem wall. Then, find out the volume of the brick type you plan on using. Divide the volume of each pack of bricks into the volume of your wall to find out how many packs you need.
For example, if you’re building a rectangle structure and your wall will be 6 feet (1.8 m) long, 1 foot (0.30 m) thick, and 4 feet (1.2 m) high, you need 96 cubic feet (2.7 m) of material for that section. Then multiply that by 4 to get 384 cubic feet (10.9 m) for the whole wall.
Use a different formula if you are calculating the volume of a circular structure.
If a pack of bricks has a volume of 20 cubic feet (0.57 m) and the total volume for your wall is 384 cubic feet (10.9 m), then you need 20 packs of bricks.
If you’re having the stones delivered, ask the drivers to place the stones as close to your building site as possible so you don’t have to carry them long distances.
1-4. Clear the building site.
Remove any grass, bushes, trees, or other natural obstructions inside the planned perimeter of the structure. Pull up grass until you expose the dirt underneath.
1-5. Dig a 9 in (23 cm) deep trench around the perimeter of your structure.
This trench should follow the planned outer walls. It forms the rubble layer that you’ll stack the stem wall on top of.
Make the bottom of this trench as level as possible. If you encounter any stones or obstructions, remove them to they don’t get in the way of your wall.
1-6. Fill the trench with 2 layers of drain-grade gravel with landscape fabric in between.
Gravel forms the foundation for the stem wall and assists with drainage. Cover the bottom of the trench with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of gravel. Push the gravel down with your foot or a shovel to make sure it’s tightly packed.
Then, lay out landscaping fabric so it covers the gravel and both sides of the trench. Leave some fabric remaining at the top so you can wrap the fabric around the top of the drainage system. Finally, pour gravel into the trench until it fills 1/3 of the way to the top.
You can buy bags of drain-grade gravel at a local hardware or garden supply store.
1-7. Install a drainage pipe in the trench.
To prevent water from settling in your foundation, you can build a simple drainage system. First, dig a path extending from the wall's trench to a drainage area. Lay a perforated pipe in the trench and extend it into the drainage path. Then wrap the remaining landscaping fabric over the pipe. Fill the trench with gravel until it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the top.
If you plan on connecting your drainage pipe to a local storm drain or sewer, make sure you receive permission from the local government.
If you have water on your property, you can extend the drainage ditch so it empties here.
2. Stacking the Wall
2-1. Lay a cornerstone in each corner.
Load-bearing dry stack walls should be started at the corners. Begin constructing corners by laying 1 stone in the corner of the trench. Then lay 3 stones extending out in each direction. This forms the corner joint.
If the wall is more than 1 stone thick, lay more stones parallel to the first ones. Act as if each section represents one stone.
2-2. Construct the corners by interlocking stones.
Construction bricks are designed to interlock at corners. The 4 stones you laid from each direction forms the first layer of cornerstones. For the second layer, overlap the first stone by laying another on top of it. Continue interlocking the stones as you build upward, alternating which side lays over the other.
The interlocking stone structure should look like a zipper going up.
Stack 3 to 5 layers of stones at the corner before filling in the rest of the wall. Then if you need to go higher, stack more layers at the corners.
2-3. Lay the stones down for the first layer of your wall.
After constructing the corners, extend outward from here and fill in the rest of the trench. Interlocking bricks have shapes cut into them that line up with the other bricks. Fit the bricks together as you lay them in place. Place the bricks in the trench all along the perimeter to form the first layer.
Make sure each rock you place is secure. Push it down to lock it in place snugly. Pound them down gently with a rubber mallet if you have to.
Always stack a complete layer around the whole perimeter before starting another layer.
2-4. Stagger the rocks as you start new layers.
When starting a new layer, each rock should overlap the joint between the rocks below it. This helps make your wall more stable. Continue this pattern as you stack more layers.
If your bricks are smaller and you need to use more than one to cover the width of the trench, make sure the stones nearby touch each other. Otherwise, the wall won’t be able to support much weight.
2-5. Stack your wall at least 1.5 feet (0.46 m) above the ground level.
Part of the reason you need a stem wall is to keep ground moisture away from the structure you’re building. Stacking the wall at least 1.5 feet (0.46 m) above ground level helps keep your structure dry and avoids water damage.
Do not build the stem wall higher than 8 feet (2.4 m). A wall higher than this requires extra reinforcement. Many localities even ban stem walls higher than 4 feet (1.2 m) for safety reasons.
3. Finishing the Wall
3-1. Check that your wall is level when it’s complete.
The stem wall must be level to support a structure. Place a level on top of the wall and adjust the bricks if necessary.
Check the wall in multiple locations to confirm that it’s level across its whole perimeter.
3-2. Continue building your foundation.
The stem wall only forms a part of your foundation. If you intend on building a structure, you need additional foundation. This usually requires pouring cement into the section that the stem wall surrounds.
Pouring this much cement is a big job. Consider contacting a contractor to do this step for you.
You can also build a foundation with large rocks or bricks. This is only for a smaller structure.
3-3. Use extra reinforcement for walls taller than 8 ft (2.4 m).
The dry stack technique is only intended for walls less than 8 ft (2.4 m). Taller walls need extra reinforcement like steel rebar and cement. This is a different and much larger project that requires a professional contractor.
Warnings
A stem wall less than 9 feet (2.7 m) is not intended for a structure that people will live in. Only use this technique for retaining walls or simple structures like sheds.
If you plan on using this stem wall to support a structure, have a licensed engineer check it for safety. An improperly built foundation can cause a building to collapse.
Some local areas have laws about what type of structures you can build on your property. Check any regulations that you have to abide by.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:50",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Measuring and Creating the Perimeter\\n1-1. Obtain any necessary construction permits.\\nBuilding a wall this size is a potentially significant construction project, and some localities will require a permit. Investigate local laws and see if you need a permit for this project. If so, go through all the steps of obtaining the permit before starting construction to avoid fines or other legal trouble.\\nChecking with your local building department is a good place to start.\\nIf you know a local contractor or engineer, they are likely aware of regulations in your area. You can also ask them if there are certain regulations you have to meet.\\n1-2. Measure and mark the perimeter of your structure.\\nThe stem wall should form part of the foundation on your structure, so build it along the planned structure perimeter. Start by measuring out that perimeter. Then mark that border on the ground.\\nIf you’re planning a 10 feet (3.0 m) x 10 feet (3.0 m) shed, measure out these dimensions and mark them in the ground. Plan on starting your stem wall on this perimeter.\\n1-3. Calculate how many bricks you need.\\nAfter you've planned the perimeter for your wall, you can calculate the amount of materials you need. First, calculate the cubic feet of the wall you’re planning. The formula for cubic feet is length x width x height. Use this formula for each section of your stem wall. Then, find out the volume of the brick type you plan on using. Divide the volume of each pack of bricks into the volume of your wall to find out how many packs you need.\\nFor example, if you’re building a rectangle structure and your wall will be 6 feet (1.8 m) long, 1 foot (0.30 m) thick, and 4 feet (1.2 m) high, you need 96 cubic feet (2.7 m) of material for that section. Then multiply that by 4 to get 384 cubic feet (10.9 m) for the whole wall.\\nUse a different formula if you are calculating the volume of a circular structure.\\nIf a pack of bricks has a volume of 20 cubic feet (0.57 m) and the total volume for your wall is 384 cubic feet (10.9 m), then you need 20 packs of bricks.\\nIf you’re having the stones delivered, ask the drivers to place the stones as close to your building site as possible so you don’t have to carry them long distances.\\n1-4. Clear the building site.\\nRemove any grass, bushes, trees, or other natural obstructions inside the planned perimeter of the structure. Pull up grass until you expose the dirt underneath.\\n1-5. Dig a 9 in (23 cm) deep trench around the perimeter of your structure.\\nThis trench should follow the planned outer walls. It forms the rubble layer that you’ll stack the stem wall on top of.\\nMake the bottom of this trench as level as possible. If you encounter any stones or obstructions, remove them to they don’t get in the way of your wall.\\n1-6. Fill the trench with 2 layers of drain-grade gravel with landscape fabric in between.\\nGravel forms the foundation for the stem wall and assists with drainage. Cover the bottom of the trench with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of gravel. Push the gravel down with your foot or a shovel to make sure it’s tightly packed.\\nThen, lay out landscaping fabric so it covers the gravel and both sides of the trench. Leave some fabric remaining at the top so you can wrap the fabric around the top of the drainage system. Finally, pour gravel into the trench until it fills 1/3 of the way to the top.\\nYou can buy bags of drain-grade gravel at a local hardware or garden supply store.\\n1-7. Install a drainage pipe in the trench.\\nTo prevent water from settling in your foundation, you can build a simple drainage system. First, dig a path extending from the wall's trench to a drainage area. Lay a perforated pipe in the trench and extend it into the drainage path. Then wrap the remaining landscaping fabric over the pipe. Fill the trench with gravel until it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the top.\\nIf you plan on connecting your drainage pipe to a local storm drain or sewer, make sure you receive permission from the local government.\\nIf you have water on your property, you can extend the drainage ditch so it empties here.\\n2. Stacking the Wall\\n2-1. Lay a cornerstone in each corner.\\nLoad-bearing dry stack walls should be started at the corners. Begin constructing corners by laying 1 stone in the corner of the trench. Then lay 3 stones extending out in each direction. This forms the corner joint.\\nIf the wall is more than 1 stone thick, lay more stones parallel to the first ones. Act as if each section represents one stone.\\n2-2. Construct the corners by interlocking stones.\\nConstruction bricks are designed to interlock at corners. The 4 stones you laid from each direction forms the first layer of cornerstones. For the second layer, overlap the first stone by laying another on top of it. Continue interlocking the stones as you build upward, alternating which side lays over the other.\\nThe interlocking stone structure should look like a zipper going up.\\nStack 3 to 5 layers of stones at the corner before filling in the rest of the wall. Then if you need to go higher, stack more layers at the corners.\\n2-3. Lay the stones down for the first layer of your wall.\\nAfter constructing the corners, extend outward from here and fill in the rest of the trench. Interlocking bricks have shapes cut into them that line up with the other bricks. Fit the bricks together as you lay them in place. Place the bricks in the trench all along the perimeter to form the first layer.\\nMake sure each rock you place is secure. Push it down to lock it in place snugly. Pound them down gently with a rubber mallet if you have to.\\nAlways stack a complete layer around the whole perimeter before starting another layer.\\n2-4. Stagger the rocks as you start new layers.\\nWhen starting a new layer, each rock should overlap the joint between the rocks below it. This helps make your wall more stable. Continue this pattern as you stack more layers.\\nIf your bricks are smaller and you need to use more than one to cover the width of the trench, make sure the stones nearby touch each other. Otherwise, the wall won’t be able to support much weight.\\n2-5. Stack your wall at least 1.5 feet (0.46 m) above the ground level.\\nPart of the reason you need a stem wall is to keep ground moisture away from the structure you’re building. Stacking the wall at least 1.5 feet (0.46 m) above ground level helps keep your structure dry and avoids water damage.\\nDo not build the stem wall higher than 8 feet (2.4 m). A wall higher than this requires extra reinforcement. Many localities even ban stem walls higher than 4 feet (1.2 m) for safety reasons.\\n3. Finishing the Wall\\n3-1. Check that your wall is level when it’s complete.\\nThe stem wall must be level to support a structure. Place a level on top of the wall and adjust the bricks if necessary.\\nCheck the wall in multiple locations to confirm that it’s level across its whole perimeter.\\n3-2. Continue building your foundation.\\nThe stem wall only forms a part of your foundation. If you intend on building a structure, you need additional foundation. This usually requires pouring cement into the section that the stem wall surrounds.\\nPouring this much cement is a big job. Consider contacting a contractor to do this step for you.\\nYou can also build a foundation with large rocks or bricks. This is only for a smaller structure.\\n3-3. Use extra reinforcement for walls taller than 8 ft (2.4 m).\\nThe dry stack technique is only intended for walls less than 8 ft (2.4 m). Taller walls need extra reinforcement like steel rebar and cement. This is a different and much larger project that requires a professional contractor.\\nWarnings\\nA stem wall less than 9 feet (2.7 m) is not intended for a structure that people will live in. Only use this technique for retaining walls or simple structures like sheds.\\nIf you plan on using this stem wall to support a structure, have a licensed engineer check it for safety. An improperly built foundation can cause a building to collapse.\\nSome local areas have laws about what type of structures you can build on your property. Check any regulations that you have to abide by.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A stem wall is the outer portion of a structure’s foundation. The stem wall lifts the structure above the ground level to protect it from moisture. There are many ways to build one, but the easiest method uses interlocking bricks designed for dry stacking. A dry-stacked stem wall, without using any mortar or cement, should be no taller than 9 feet (2.7 m) and can support a small shed or similar light structure. Begin by clearing the building zone and digging a trench around the planned structure’s perimeter. Then stack bricks or stones at least 1.5 feet (0.46 m) above the ground level. After this, you can continue building your foundation and structure.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measuring and Creating the Perimeter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain any necessary construction permits.\", \"描述\": \"Building a wall this size is a potentially significant construction project, and some localities will require a permit. Investigate local laws and see if you need a permit for this project. If so, go through all the steps of obtaining the permit before starting construction to avoid fines or other legal trouble.\\nChecking with your local building department is a good place to start.\\nIf you know a local contractor or engineer, they are likely aware of regulations in your area. You can also ask them if there are certain regulations you have to meet.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and mark the perimeter of your structure.\", \"描述\": \"The stem wall should form part of the foundation on your structure, so build it along the planned structure perimeter. Start by measuring out that perimeter. Then mark that border on the ground.\\nIf you’re planning a 10 feet (3.0 m) x 10 feet (3.0 m) shed, measure out these dimensions and mark them in the ground. Plan on starting your stem wall on this perimeter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Calculate how many bricks you need.\", \"描述\": \"After you've planned the perimeter for your wall, you can calculate the amount of materials you need. First, calculate the cubic feet of the wall you’re planning. The formula for cubic feet is length x width x height. Use this formula for each section of your stem wall. Then, find out the volume of the brick type you plan on using. Divide the volume of each pack of bricks into the volume of your wall to find out how many packs you need.\\nFor example, if you’re building a rectangle structure and your wall will be 6 feet (1.8 m) long, 1 foot (0.30 m) thick, and 4 feet (1.2 m) high, you need 96 cubic feet (2.7 m) of material for that section. Then multiply that by 4 to get 384 cubic feet (10.9 m) for the whole wall.\\nUse a different formula if you are calculating the volume of a circular structure.\\nIf a pack of bricks has a volume of 20 cubic feet (0.57 m) and the total volume for your wall is 384 cubic feet (10.9 m), then you need 20 packs of bricks.\\nIf you’re having the stones delivered, ask the drivers to place the stones as close to your building site as possible so you don’t have to carry them long distances.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Clear the building site.\", \"描述\": \"Remove any grass, bushes, trees, or other natural obstructions inside the planned perimeter of the structure. Pull up grass until you expose the dirt underneath.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Dig a 9 in (23 cm) deep trench around the perimeter of your structure.\", \"描述\": \"This trench should follow the planned outer walls. It forms the rubble layer that you’ll stack the stem wall on top of.\\nMake the bottom of this trench as level as possible. If you encounter any stones or obstructions, remove them to they don’t get in the way of your wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fill the trench with 2 layers of drain-grade gravel with landscape fabric in between.\", \"描述\": \"Gravel forms the foundation for the stem wall and assists with drainage. Cover the bottom of the trench with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of gravel. Push the gravel down with your foot or a shovel to make sure it’s tightly packed.\\nThen, lay out landscaping fabric so it covers the gravel and both sides of the trench. Leave some fabric remaining at the top so you can wrap the fabric around the top of the drainage system. Finally, pour gravel into the trench until it fills 1/3 of the way to the top.\\nYou can buy bags of drain-grade gravel at a local hardware or garden supply store.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install a drainage pipe in the trench.\", \"描述\": \"To prevent water from settling in your foundation, you can build a simple drainage system. First, dig a path extending from the wall's trench to a drainage area. Lay a perforated pipe in the trench and extend it into the drainage path. Then wrap the remaining landscaping fabric over the pipe. Fill the trench with gravel until it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the top.\\nIf you plan on connecting your drainage pipe to a local storm drain or sewer, make sure you receive permission from the local government.\\nIf you have water on your property, you can extend the drainage ditch so it empties here.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Stacking the Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay a cornerstone in each corner.\", \"描述\": \"Load-bearing dry stack walls should be started at the corners. Begin constructing corners by laying 1 stone in the corner of the trench. Then lay 3 stones extending out in each direction. This forms the corner joint.\\nIf the wall is more than 1 stone thick, lay more stones parallel to the first ones. Act as if each section represents one stone.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Construct the corners by interlocking stones.\", \"描述\": \"Construction bricks are designed to interlock at corners. The 4 stones you laid from each direction forms the first layer of cornerstones. For the second layer, overlap the first stone by laying another on top of it. Continue interlocking the stones as you build upward, alternating which side lays over the other.\\nThe interlocking stone structure should look like a zipper going up.\\nStack 3 to 5 layers of stones at the corner before filling in the rest of the wall. Then if you need to go higher, stack more layers at the corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay the stones down for the first layer of your wall.\", \"描述\": \"After constructing the corners, extend outward from here and fill in the rest of the trench. Interlocking bricks have shapes cut into them that line up with the other bricks. Fit the bricks together as you lay them in place. Place the bricks in the trench all along the perimeter to form the first layer.\\nMake sure each rock you place is secure. Push it down to lock it in place snugly. Pound them down gently with a rubber mallet if you have to.\\nAlways stack a complete layer around the whole perimeter before starting another layer.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stagger the rocks as you start new layers.\", \"描述\": \"When starting a new layer, each rock should overlap the joint between the rocks below it. This helps make your wall more stable. Continue this pattern as you stack more layers.\\nIf your bricks are smaller and you need to use more than one to cover the width of the trench, make sure the stones nearby touch each other. Otherwise, the wall won’t be able to support much weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Stack your wall at least 1.5 feet (0.46 m) above the ground level.\", \"描述\": \"Part of the reason you need a stem wall is to keep ground moisture away from the structure you’re building. Stacking the wall at least 1.5 feet (0.46 m) above ground level helps keep your structure dry and avoids water damage.\\nDo not build the stem wall higher than 8 feet (2.4 m). A wall higher than this requires extra reinforcement. Many localities even ban stem walls higher than 4 feet (1.2 m) for safety reasons.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check that your wall is level when it’s complete.\", \"描述\": \"The stem wall must be level to support a structure. Place a level on top of the wall and adjust the bricks if necessary.\\nCheck the wall in multiple locations to confirm that it’s level across its whole perimeter.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Continue building your foundation.\", \"描述\": \"The stem wall only forms a part of your foundation. If you intend on building a structure, you need additional foundation. This usually requires pouring cement into the section that the stem wall surrounds.\\nPouring this much cement is a big job. Consider contacting a contractor to do this step for you.\\nYou can also build a foundation with large rocks or bricks. This is only for a smaller structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use extra reinforcement for walls taller than 8 ft (2.4 m).\", \"描述\": \"The dry stack technique is only intended for walls less than 8 ft (2.4 m). Taller walls need extra reinforcement like steel rebar and cement. This is a different and much larger project that requires a professional contractor.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"A stem wall less than 9 feet (2.7 m) is not intended for a structure that people will live in. Only use this technique for retaining walls or simple structures like sheds.\\n\", \"If you plan on using this stem wall to support a structure, have a licensed engineer check it for safety. An improperly built foundation can cause a building to collapse.\\n\", \"Some local areas have laws about what type of structures you can build on your property. Check any regulations that you have to abide by.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,446 |
How to Build a Motor
|
1. Making the Wire Coil
1-1. Gather all of your materials.
This project will require copper wire (anything from 24 to 28 gauge will do), a magnet, electrical tape, a D battery, and two paper clips. Place them all on the table in front of you so you have easy access as you go about assembling the motor.
You will also need wire strippers or a blade if your wire is insulated.
You can purchase all of these things at your local hardware store or at most large retail stores.
1-2. Roll wire around a cylindrical object like a battery to make a coil.
Take the D battery or any other cylindrical object and wrap your wire around it at least 7 to 10 times with 2 inches (5.1 cm) of wire sticking out from each end. This will create a coil that will ultimately make up the majority of the motor.
Keep the coil tight as you wrap the wire around the battery.
Make sure to leave plenty of slack on either end of the coil as you wrap it.
1-3. Loosen the coil (if necessary) and remove the battery.
Pull the battery (or whatever cylinder you used) out from the top or bottom of the loop you created with the wire and set it aside. You should be left with just a coil.
Be careful not to let the wire unravel as you handle the coil.
If the battery or cylinder is stuck, loosen the coil wrapped around it a bit to slide it out.
1-4. Wrap each end of the wire around the coil several times.
Take one end of the wire and pull it through the coil so it wraps around the wire and helps to hold the shape of the coil. Then repeat the process with the other end of the wire on the opposite side of the loop of the coil.
You may want to wrap each end around the wire 2 or 3 times.
Make sure to leave at least 2 inches (5.1 cm) of wire extending out of each end of the coil.
1-5. Tie a knot around the coil with each loose end of wire.
Press the end of the wire through the coil one more time, then run the wire through the loop that creates to secure it like a knot around the coil. Then repeat the process on the opposite side of the coil using the other end of the wire.
Once finished, the coil should look like a wire circle with the two ends extending out from opposing sides.
These knots aren’t required for the function of the motor, but will help ensure the coil doesn’t unravel when you’re not holding it.
1-6. Add electrical tape to opposite ends of the coil if it seems loose.
If the loop of the coil isn’t holding its shape well, take a small piece of tape and wrap it around the wire on the top or bottom, where the wire ends aren’t extending out from. Use the same size piece of tape on the other side of the coil to keep it balanced.
You don’t need much electric tape. A piece only about .5 inches (1.3 cm) long will be fine.
If the coil holds the shape of a circle without the tape, you can skip this step.
2. Assembling the Motor
2-1. Pull the wire ends out away from the coil.
The extended ends of the wire should be pointed straight out from either side of the loop and extend for around 2 inches (5.1 cm). Work any small bends out of the wire that is extended so they are more or less completely straight.
Make sure that where the wires extend out from the loop on either side is even, so the coil will be even once the motor is assembled.
2-2. Strip off the insulation on both ends, if present.
If the wire you are using has insulation on it, you will need to expose the wire beneath. Use a pair of wire strippers or a blade to slice through the insulation layer without damaging the wire, then pull the insulation away from the wire to expose it.
Make sure that at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of wire is exposed on both sides.
If the wire is not insulated, you can skip this step.
2-3. Coat one side of each wire end with a permanent marker.
Hold the coil in one hand with your index finger and thumb so the loop is standing upright and the wires are extending out to either side. Then use a permanent marker to color in just the top of the exposed wire extending out from either side.
Only color in the top side of the exposed wire on either side. Leave the bottom side uncolored.
This variation in the wire will help to engage the motor.
2-4. Stretch out the ends of two metal paper clips.
Take your paper clips and unfold the ends of them so they are straight. Leave the remaining loop of the paper clip intact. It will hold the extended ends of the wire on your coil once the motor is assembled.
The paper clips should now each look like a loop with a long arm extending from it.
If you don’t have paper clips, you can create loops with stiff wire for the same purpose.
2-5. Tape the extended ends of each paperclip to opposing sides of a D battery.
Lay the battery on its side. Place the extended end of one paper clip against the positive side of the D battery and secure it in place with a piece of tape. Then touch the extended end of the other paper clip to the negative side of the battery and tape it in place too.
Make sure both paperclips are pointed in the same direction.
You can add some more tape to the bottom of the battery to keep it from rolling from side to side, but it’s optional.
2-6. Slide the ends of the coil into the paperclips like a holder.
Holding the battery to prevent it from rolling (unless you created a tape kickstand) insert the extended wire from one side of the coil into one of the paper clips, and then slide the other extended end through the other paper clip.
Let go of the coil so it is resting on the paper clips via the extended and exposed arms of the coil.
If the paper clips are too far apart, bend them inward so they can hold the coil.
2-7. Use tape to secure a magnet to the battery below the coil.
Place a piece of tape over your magnet, then pick it up and stick it onto the battery centered beneath the coil you just put on. The battery will provide a current that flows through the coil, which when coupled with the magnet, will force the coil to rotate.
The magnet is the final piece you need to complete the motor, so you may spot the coil quiver a bit as you put it in place.
Secure the magnet with tape so you don’t have to hold it in place.
There is no risk of injury or shock when doing this, but always exercise caution when working with electronics.
3. Making the Motor Run Smoothly
3-1. Remove or adjust anything the prevents the coil from spinning.
If the coil will run into the magnet as it spins, remove the tape holding the paper clips to either side of the battery and move them up until the coil can clear the battery.
The coil needs to be able to spin freely in order for the motor to work.
If you used the battery to create your coil, it should be small enough to skip this step.
3-2. Adjust the balance by moving the paperclips to make the motor spin freely.
You may need to experiment a bit with the placement and positioning of the paper clips to hold the coil in place. Squeeze them in close if the ends of the wire keep popping out or bend them out further if the clips are coming into contact with the loop of the coil itself.
Make sure both paperclips are even with one another. If they’re crooked, it could impede the coil from spinning.
3-3. Give the coil a little spin if it doesn’t start on its own.
If the coil doesn’t begin to spin on its own, nudge it with your finger to get it started. If it doesn’t spin, press on the tape holding the paper clips to the battery to ensure they’re secure.
The coil will likely begin to spin freely. If it does, the motor is complete.
The coil will continue to spin until the battery is depleted or you stop it.
3-4. Try the opposite direction if it still doesn’t spin.
If the motor doesn’t start spinning when you nudge it in one direction, try nudging it in the opposite direction to see if that works. This motor should only spin one way, so you may just need to try both directions to find the right one.
Once it starts spinning, it won’t stop unless you stop it.
If it doesn’t start spinning, check to make sure your connections are all strong and then try again.
Tips
If you find it difficult to tie the coil using the remaining wire you can just use electric tape or scotch tape to hold the motor coil instead.
You can use this method to build a motor of any type by replacing the battery and battery holder with other sources of energy and their respective containers. The core idea is to get alternative energy flowing through the motor armature in some way.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:51",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the Wire Coil\\n1-1. Gather all of your materials.\\nThis project will require copper wire (anything from 24 to 28 gauge will do), a magnet, electrical tape, a D battery, and two paper clips. Place them all on the table in front of you so you have easy access as you go about assembling the motor.\\nYou will also need wire strippers or a blade if your wire is insulated.\\nYou can purchase all of these things at your local hardware store or at most large retail stores.\\n1-2. Roll wire around a cylindrical object like a battery to make a coil.\\nTake the D battery or any other cylindrical object and wrap your wire around it at least 7 to 10 times with 2 inches (5.1 cm) of wire sticking out from each end. This will create a coil that will ultimately make up the majority of the motor.\\nKeep the coil tight as you wrap the wire around the battery.\\nMake sure to leave plenty of slack on either end of the coil as you wrap it.\\n1-3. Loosen the coil (if necessary) and remove the battery.\\nPull the battery (or whatever cylinder you used) out from the top or bottom of the loop you created with the wire and set it aside. You should be left with just a coil.\\nBe careful not to let the wire unravel as you handle the coil.\\nIf the battery or cylinder is stuck, loosen the coil wrapped around it a bit to slide it out.\\n1-4. Wrap each end of the wire around the coil several times.\\nTake one end of the wire and pull it through the coil so it wraps around the wire and helps to hold the shape of the coil. Then repeat the process with the other end of the wire on the opposite side of the loop of the coil.\\nYou may want to wrap each end around the wire 2 or 3 times.\\nMake sure to leave at least 2 inches (5.1 cm) of wire extending out of each end of the coil.\\n1-5. Tie a knot around the coil with each loose end of wire.\\nPress the end of the wire through the coil one more time, then run the wire through the loop that creates to secure it like a knot around the coil. Then repeat the process on the opposite side of the coil using the other end of the wire.\\nOnce finished, the coil should look like a wire circle with the two ends extending out from opposing sides.\\nThese knots aren’t required for the function of the motor, but will help ensure the coil doesn’t unravel when you’re not holding it.\\n1-6. Add electrical tape to opposite ends of the coil if it seems loose.\\nIf the loop of the coil isn’t holding its shape well, take a small piece of tape and wrap it around the wire on the top or bottom, where the wire ends aren’t extending out from. Use the same size piece of tape on the other side of the coil to keep it balanced. \\nYou don’t need much electric tape. A piece only about .5 inches (1.3 cm) long will be fine.\\nIf the coil holds the shape of a circle without the tape, you can skip this step.\\n2. Assembling the Motor\\n2-1. Pull the wire ends out away from the coil.\\nThe extended ends of the wire should be pointed straight out from either side of the loop and extend for around 2 inches (5.1 cm). Work any small bends out of the wire that is extended so they are more or less completely straight.\\nMake sure that where the wires extend out from the loop on either side is even, so the coil will be even once the motor is assembled.\\n2-2. Strip off the insulation on both ends, if present.\\nIf the wire you are using has insulation on it, you will need to expose the wire beneath. Use a pair of wire strippers or a blade to slice through the insulation layer without damaging the wire, then pull the insulation away from the wire to expose it.\\nMake sure that at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of wire is exposed on both sides.\\nIf the wire is not insulated, you can skip this step.\\n2-3. Coat one side of each wire end with a permanent marker.\\nHold the coil in one hand with your index finger and thumb so the loop is standing upright and the wires are extending out to either side. Then use a permanent marker to color in just the top of the exposed wire extending out from either side.\\nOnly color in the top side of the exposed wire on either side. Leave the bottom side uncolored.\\nThis variation in the wire will help to engage the motor.\\n2-4. Stretch out the ends of two metal paper clips.\\nTake your paper clips and unfold the ends of them so they are straight. Leave the remaining loop of the paper clip intact. It will hold the extended ends of the wire on your coil once the motor is assembled.\\nThe paper clips should now each look like a loop with a long arm extending from it.\\nIf you don’t have paper clips, you can create loops with stiff wire for the same purpose.\\n2-5. Tape the extended ends of each paperclip to opposing sides of a D battery.\\nLay the battery on its side. Place the extended end of one paper clip against the positive side of the D battery and secure it in place with a piece of tape. Then touch the extended end of the other paper clip to the negative side of the battery and tape it in place too.\\nMake sure both paperclips are pointed in the same direction.\\nYou can add some more tape to the bottom of the battery to keep it from rolling from side to side, but it’s optional.\\n2-6. Slide the ends of the coil into the paperclips like a holder.\\nHolding the battery to prevent it from rolling (unless you created a tape kickstand) insert the extended wire from one side of the coil into one of the paper clips, and then slide the other extended end through the other paper clip.\\nLet go of the coil so it is resting on the paper clips via the extended and exposed arms of the coil.\\nIf the paper clips are too far apart, bend them inward so they can hold the coil.\\n2-7. Use tape to secure a magnet to the battery below the coil.\\nPlace a piece of tape over your magnet, then pick it up and stick it onto the battery centered beneath the coil you just put on. The battery will provide a current that flows through the coil, which when coupled with the magnet, will force the coil to rotate.\\nThe magnet is the final piece you need to complete the motor, so you may spot the coil quiver a bit as you put it in place.\\nSecure the magnet with tape so you don’t have to hold it in place.\\nThere is no risk of injury or shock when doing this, but always exercise caution when working with electronics.\\n3. Making the Motor Run Smoothly\\n3-1. Remove or adjust anything the prevents the coil from spinning.\\nIf the coil will run into the magnet as it spins, remove the tape holding the paper clips to either side of the battery and move them up until the coil can clear the battery.\\nThe coil needs to be able to spin freely in order for the motor to work.\\nIf you used the battery to create your coil, it should be small enough to skip this step.\\n3-2. Adjust the balance by moving the paperclips to make the motor spin freely.\\nYou may need to experiment a bit with the placement and positioning of the paper clips to hold the coil in place. Squeeze them in close if the ends of the wire keep popping out or bend them out further if the clips are coming into contact with the loop of the coil itself.\\nMake sure both paperclips are even with one another. If they’re crooked, it could impede the coil from spinning.\\n3-3. Give the coil a little spin if it doesn’t start on its own.\\nIf the coil doesn’t begin to spin on its own, nudge it with your finger to get it started. If it doesn’t spin, press on the tape holding the paper clips to the battery to ensure they’re secure. \\nThe coil will likely begin to spin freely. If it does, the motor is complete.\\nThe coil will continue to spin until the battery is depleted or you stop it.\\n3-4. Try the opposite direction if it still doesn’t spin.\\nIf the motor doesn’t start spinning when you nudge it in one direction, try nudging it in the opposite direction to see if that works. This motor should only spin one way, so you may just need to try both directions to find the right one.\\nOnce it starts spinning, it won’t stop unless you stop it.\\nIf it doesn’t start spinning, check to make sure your connections are all strong and then try again.\\nTips\\nIf you find it difficult to tie the coil using the remaining wire you can just use electric tape or scotch tape to hold the motor coil instead.\\nYou can use this method to build a motor of any type by replacing the battery and battery holder with other sources of energy and their respective containers. The core idea is to get alternative energy flowing through the motor armature in some way.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Most motors that are commercially built have complicated parts and specifications to optimize their performance. However, on the more basic level almost anyone can build an electric motor using some cheap and commonly available tools. This simple electric motor uses electricity and magnetism to spin a wire coil that’s supported by paper clips. It is a fun exercise that helps you learn about the underlying scientific principles found in every motor no matter how advanced it may be.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the Wire Coil\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather all of your materials.\", \"描述\": \"This project will require copper wire (anything from 24 to 28 gauge will do), a magnet, electrical tape, a D battery, and two paper clips. Place them all on the table in front of you so you have easy access as you go about assembling the motor.\\nYou will also need wire strippers or a blade if your wire is insulated.\\nYou can purchase all of these things at your local hardware store or at most large retail stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Roll wire around a cylindrical object like a battery to make a coil.\", \"描述\": \"Take the D battery or any other cylindrical object and wrap your wire around it at least 7 to 10 times with 2 inches (5.1 cm) of wire sticking out from each end. This will create a coil that will ultimately make up the majority of the motor.\\nKeep the coil tight as you wrap the wire around the battery.\\nMake sure to leave plenty of slack on either end of the coil as you wrap it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Loosen the coil (if necessary) and remove the battery.\", \"描述\": \"Pull the battery (or whatever cylinder you used) out from the top or bottom of the loop you created with the wire and set it aside. You should be left with just a coil.\\nBe careful not to let the wire unravel as you handle the coil.\\nIf the battery or cylinder is stuck, loosen the coil wrapped around it a bit to slide it out.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wrap each end of the wire around the coil several times.\", \"描述\": \"Take one end of the wire and pull it through the coil so it wraps around the wire and helps to hold the shape of the coil. Then repeat the process with the other end of the wire on the opposite side of the loop of the coil.\\nYou may want to wrap each end around the wire 2 or 3 times.\\nMake sure to leave at least 2 inches (5.1 cm) of wire extending out of each end of the coil.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tie a knot around the coil with each loose end of wire.\", \"描述\": \"Press the end of the wire through the coil one more time, then run the wire through the loop that creates to secure it like a knot around the coil. Then repeat the process on the opposite side of the coil using the other end of the wire.\\nOnce finished, the coil should look like a wire circle with the two ends extending out from opposing sides.\\nThese knots aren’t required for the function of the motor, but will help ensure the coil doesn’t unravel when you’re not holding it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add electrical tape to opposite ends of the coil if it seems loose.\", \"描述\": \"If the loop of the coil isn’t holding its shape well, take a small piece of tape and wrap it around the wire on the top or bottom, where the wire ends aren’t extending out from. Use the same size piece of tape on the other side of the coil to keep it balanced. \\nYou don’t need much electric tape. A piece only about .5 inches (1.3 cm) long will be fine.\\nIf the coil holds the shape of a circle without the tape, you can skip this step.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Motor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pull the wire ends out away from the coil.\", \"描述\": \"The extended ends of the wire should be pointed straight out from either side of the loop and extend for around 2 inches (5.1 cm). Work any small bends out of the wire that is extended so they are more or less completely straight.\\nMake sure that where the wires extend out from the loop on either side is even, so the coil will be even once the motor is assembled.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Strip off the insulation on both ends, if present.\", \"描述\": \"If the wire you are using has insulation on it, you will need to expose the wire beneath. Use a pair of wire strippers or a blade to slice through the insulation layer without damaging the wire, then pull the insulation away from the wire to expose it.\\nMake sure that at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of wire is exposed on both sides.\\nIf the wire is not insulated, you can skip this step.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Coat one side of each wire end with a permanent marker.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the coil in one hand with your index finger and thumb so the loop is standing upright and the wires are extending out to either side. Then use a permanent marker to color in just the top of the exposed wire extending out from either side.\\nOnly color in the top side of the exposed wire on either side. Leave the bottom side uncolored.\\nThis variation in the wire will help to engage the motor.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stretch out the ends of two metal paper clips.\", \"描述\": \"Take your paper clips and unfold the ends of them so they are straight. Leave the remaining loop of the paper clip intact. It will hold the extended ends of the wire on your coil once the motor is assembled.\\nThe paper clips should now each look like a loop with a long arm extending from it.\\nIf you don’t have paper clips, you can create loops with stiff wire for the same purpose.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tape the extended ends of each paperclip to opposing sides of a D battery.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the battery on its side. Place the extended end of one paper clip against the positive side of the D battery and secure it in place with a piece of tape. Then touch the extended end of the other paper clip to the negative side of the battery and tape it in place too.\\nMake sure both paperclips are pointed in the same direction.\\nYou can add some more tape to the bottom of the battery to keep it from rolling from side to side, but it’s optional.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Slide the ends of the coil into the paperclips like a holder.\", \"描述\": \"Holding the battery to prevent it from rolling (unless you created a tape kickstand) insert the extended wire from one side of the coil into one of the paper clips, and then slide the other extended end through the other paper clip.\\nLet go of the coil so it is resting on the paper clips via the extended and exposed arms of the coil.\\nIf the paper clips are too far apart, bend them inward so they can hold the coil.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Use tape to secure a magnet to the battery below the coil.\", \"描述\": \"Place a piece of tape over your magnet, then pick it up and stick it onto the battery centered beneath the coil you just put on. The battery will provide a current that flows through the coil, which when coupled with the magnet, will force the coil to rotate.\\nThe magnet is the final piece you need to complete the motor, so you may spot the coil quiver a bit as you put it in place.\\nSecure the magnet with tape so you don’t have to hold it in place.\\nThere is no risk of injury or shock when doing this, but always exercise caution when working with electronics.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making the Motor Run Smoothly\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Remove or adjust anything the prevents the coil from spinning.\", \"描述\": \"If the coil will run into the magnet as it spins, remove the tape holding the paper clips to either side of the battery and move them up until the coil can clear the battery.\\nThe coil needs to be able to spin freely in order for the motor to work.\\nIf you used the battery to create your coil, it should be small enough to skip this step.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adjust the balance by moving the paperclips to make the motor spin freely.\", \"描述\": \"You may need to experiment a bit with the placement and positioning of the paper clips to hold the coil in place. Squeeze them in close if the ends of the wire keep popping out or bend them out further if the clips are coming into contact with the loop of the coil itself.\\nMake sure both paperclips are even with one another. If they’re crooked, it could impede the coil from spinning.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Give the coil a little spin if it doesn’t start on its own.\", \"描述\": \"If the coil doesn’t begin to spin on its own, nudge it with your finger to get it started. If it doesn’t spin, press on the tape holding the paper clips to the battery to ensure they’re secure. \\nThe coil will likely begin to spin freely. If it does, the motor is complete.\\nThe coil will continue to spin until the battery is depleted or you stop it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try the opposite direction if it still doesn’t spin.\", \"描述\": \"If the motor doesn’t start spinning when you nudge it in one direction, try nudging it in the opposite direction to see if that works. This motor should only spin one way, so you may just need to try both directions to find the right one.\\nOnce it starts spinning, it won’t stop unless you stop it.\\nIf it doesn’t start spinning, check to make sure your connections are all strong and then try again.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you find it difficult to tie the coil using the remaining wire you can just use electric tape or scotch tape to hold the motor coil instead.\\n\", \"You can use this method to build a motor of any type by replacing the battery and battery holder with other sources of energy and their respective containers. The core idea is to get alternative energy flowing through the motor armature in some way.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,447 |
How to Build a Mousetrap Car
|
1. Planning Your Mousetrap Car
1-1. Visualize your mousetrap car.
You're going to need to attach your mousetrap to a chassis (or body), which will form the frame of your car, wheels, and an engine to power the contraption. These kinds of miniature cars are often used for physics experiment when learning about mechanical advantage, gravity, and gear ratios. For the purposes of this example, heavy cardboard will be used as the chassis, but you also might use:
Foam core.
The body of an old toy car.
A piece of light, durable wood, like balsa wood.
1-2. Use physics to your advantage for best results.
You can modify the design of your car to achieve certain goals. For example, if your physics class is having a distance race competition, you'll want to:
Lighten your car as much as possible. If using a solid chassis, this might include drilling holes in its frame and wheels.
Use wheels that are both thin and stiff.
Decrease air resistance by making the front of your car small and sleek.
1-3. Take into account the surface your car will run on.
If your car will be traveling up a ramp or across hilly terrain, smaller wheels will be able to manage the incline better due to inertia. Flat surfaces, like table and floors, can be best traversed with larger wheels.
1-4. Gather your mousetrap car making materials.
As previously mentioned, there are many different materials you might use to make your mousetrap car. Some additional options are listed in the "Tips" below. However, to make the mousetrap in this example, you will need:
Compass (for drawing circles)
Duct tape
Durable string
Elastic bands/rubber bands
Eye hooks (4)
Heavy cardboard or foam core
Mousetrap
Pliers
Ruler
Thin dowels (2)
Utility knife
2. Making the Wheels and Chassis
2-1. Make the wheels for your car.
You'll need to create four wheels out of your heavy cardboard or foam core. To do this, take your compass or some other round object and your pencil to trace your wheels-to-be onto the cardboard. In this example, one inch (2.5 cm) diameter front wheels and two inch (5 cm) diameter rear wheels were used. After you've traced your wheels:
Use your utility knife to cut your wheels free.
Attach rubber bands around the outside edge of the wheel to give the wheels additional traction.
You might also use CDs, DVDs, and vinyl records to make your wheels.
NOTE: In this example, larger back wheels and smaller forward wheels are used.
2-2. Remove dangerous teeth from the snap-arm of your trap.
Take your mousetrap and find the rod that is used to set it. There will likely be sharp teeth at the end of the rod. Carefully remove the rod, and if it has any sharp teeth, use your pliers to pull these free.
2-3. Fashion your chassis from your heavy cardboard.
To accommodate your mousetrap, you'll need your chassis to be about ½" (13 mm) bigger on all sides than your trap. Measure and mark this out on your cardboard, and then use your utility knife to cut out your chassis from the cardboard.
Balsa or basswood make a light but more durable body for the car.
2-4. Attach your mousetrap to the top of your chassis.
Center the mousetrap on top of the chassis and then, using duct tape or clear packaging tape, secure the mousetrap into place on all 4 sides.
While taping your trap into place you should avoid taping the spring. The spring should be found in the middle of the trap and snapper arm.
2-5. Align and attach your eye hooks to the bottom of your chassis.
These eye hooks will hold the axle rods, which are the rod on which you will attach your wheels. If these hooks are out of line, your car won't travel straight, so you should:
Use your ruler and a pencil to mark the location of your eye hooks in the four corners of your chassis.
Double check the marks are evenly lined up with your ruler.
Screw the eye hooks into place through the cardboard chassis where you have marked.
2-6. Create your axle rods.
Cut 2 thin skewers to a length about 4 centimeter (1.6 in) longer than the width of your eye hooks. These dowels/wooden skewer sticks will be the axle rods for the wheels that you made. They should be thin enough to slide through the eye hooks and spin freely.
Eye hooks that are too thick or skewers that are too thin will cause the axle rod to pivot in its eye hook holder, which could affect the alignment of your car.
2-7. Attach your wheels to your axle rods.
You should be able to poke holes in the center of each wheel with the point of your compass. This should create holes that are slightly smaller than the dowel rods. Then you should:
Wind a rubber band onto your axle so that it is close to the body, but not touching it. This will form a buffer between your wheel and the chassis of your car, but can create friction if it comes in contact with your chassis.
Push your wheels onto the axle rods. If you have larger drive wheels, these should go on the rear axle and the smaller wheels on the front axle.
Your axle dowels should extend past your wheel about 1" (2.5 cm).
2-8. Prevent your wheels from coming off or unaligned.
You can do this by wrapping a thin elastic band around your dowel just outside each of wheels. The elastic band will keep the wheels from falling off of the car.
3. Engaging Your Car
3-1. Tie your string to the snap-arm.
Carefully lift the snap-arm just enough to slide one end of your string beneath it. Then, wrap the string around the snap-arm and tie a tight knot to secure the string.
A general knot, like a square knot should work fine for attaching your string to the arm of your trap.
3-2. Cut your string.
Before you do, make sure that it is long enough to reach past the car's rear axle. The longer the string, the longer time it will take for the force of your trap to be released, which will create slower acceleration but greater distance traveled.
3-3. Prepare your transmission string.
Your string is the part that will transfer force from the spring mechanism of your mousetrap to the rear wheels of your car. Pull back the snap-arm and hold it securely. While you are holding the snap-arm:
Use your free hand to wrap the string tightly around the car's rear axle.
Continue winding until no string remains.
The string should be tight enough to hold down the snap-arm when held.
3-4. Prepare for a test drive.
Place the car on the ground while still holding the snap-arm. Make sure you have a good grip on the end of the string. This should keep your snap-arm in place, and releasing should cause the arm to snap forward, propelling your car.
3-5. Release your car and watch it go.
Move your hands clear of your mousetrap car and let go of the string. The kinetic energy of the mousetrap spring will transfer through your string to your rear axle, causing your mousetrap car to travel forward a few feet, depending on construction and the length of the string.
Tips
You can replace the cardboard body with a stronger, wooden one, but remember it will be harder to add the eye hooks and cut the wood. Use tools at your own risk.
Be sure to clear a path in front of your mousetrap car. Obstacles may break the fragile design.
You can also use the axles and wheels from a toy card to replace the cardboard and dowel. However, you will need superglue to stick the string in place.
Warnings
Never try this project with a rat trap. If the snapper arm of a rat trap releases early, the force could easily break someone's finger.
Young children should only assemble a mousetrap car with adult assistance.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:51",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Mousetrap Car\\n1-1. Visualize your mousetrap car.\\nYou're going to need to attach your mousetrap to a chassis (or body), which will form the frame of your car, wheels, and an engine to power the contraption. These kinds of miniature cars are often used for physics experiment when learning about mechanical advantage, gravity, and gear ratios. For the purposes of this example, heavy cardboard will be used as the chassis, but you also might use:\\nFoam core.\\nThe body of an old toy car.\\nA piece of light, durable wood, like balsa wood.\\n1-2. Use physics to your advantage for best results.\\nYou can modify the design of your car to achieve certain goals. For example, if your physics class is having a distance race competition, you'll want to:\\nLighten your car as much as possible. If using a solid chassis, this might include drilling holes in its frame and wheels.\\nUse wheels that are both thin and stiff.\\nDecrease air resistance by making the front of your car small and sleek.\\n1-3. Take into account the surface your car will run on.\\nIf your car will be traveling up a ramp or across hilly terrain, smaller wheels will be able to manage the incline better due to inertia. Flat surfaces, like table and floors, can be best traversed with larger wheels.\\n1-4. Gather your mousetrap car making materials.\\nAs previously mentioned, there are many different materials you might use to make your mousetrap car. Some additional options are listed in the \\\"Tips\\\" below. However, to make the mousetrap in this example, you will need:\\nCompass (for drawing circles)\\nDuct tape\\nDurable string\\nElastic bands/rubber bands\\nEye hooks (4)\\nHeavy cardboard or foam core\\nMousetrap\\nPliers\\nRuler\\nThin dowels (2)\\nUtility knife\\n2. Making the Wheels and Chassis\\n2-1. Make the wheels for your car.\\nYou'll need to create four wheels out of your heavy cardboard or foam core. To do this, take your compass or some other round object and your pencil to trace your wheels-to-be onto the cardboard. In this example, one inch (2.5 cm) diameter front wheels and two inch (5 cm) diameter rear wheels were used. After you've traced your wheels:\\nUse your utility knife to cut your wheels free.\\nAttach rubber bands around the outside edge of the wheel to give the wheels additional traction.\\nYou might also use CDs, DVDs, and vinyl records to make your wheels.\\n\\nNOTE: In this example, larger back wheels and smaller forward wheels are used.\\n2-2. Remove dangerous teeth from the snap-arm of your trap.\\nTake your mousetrap and find the rod that is used to set it. There will likely be sharp teeth at the end of the rod. Carefully remove the rod, and if it has any sharp teeth, use your pliers to pull these free.\\n2-3. Fashion your chassis from your heavy cardboard.\\nTo accommodate your mousetrap, you'll need your chassis to be about ½\\\" (13 mm) bigger on all sides than your trap. Measure and mark this out on your cardboard, and then use your utility knife to cut out your chassis from the cardboard.\\nBalsa or basswood make a light but more durable body for the car.\\n2-4. Attach your mousetrap to the top of your chassis.\\nCenter the mousetrap on top of the chassis and then, using duct tape or clear packaging tape, secure the mousetrap into place on all 4 sides.\\nWhile taping your trap into place you should avoid taping the spring. The spring should be found in the middle of the trap and snapper arm.\\n2-5. Align and attach your eye hooks to the bottom of your chassis.\\nThese eye hooks will hold the axle rods, which are the rod on which you will attach your wheels. If these hooks are out of line, your car won't travel straight, so you should:\\nUse your ruler and a pencil to mark the location of your eye hooks in the four corners of your chassis.\\nDouble check the marks are evenly lined up with your ruler.\\nScrew the eye hooks into place through the cardboard chassis where you have marked.\\n2-6. Create your axle rods.\\nCut 2 thin skewers to a length about 4 centimeter (1.6 in) longer than the width of your eye hooks. These dowels/wooden skewer sticks will be the axle rods for the wheels that you made. They should be thin enough to slide through the eye hooks and spin freely.\\nEye hooks that are too thick or skewers that are too thin will cause the axle rod to pivot in its eye hook holder, which could affect the alignment of your car.\\n2-7. Attach your wheels to your axle rods.\\nYou should be able to poke holes in the center of each wheel with the point of your compass. This should create holes that are slightly smaller than the dowel rods. Then you should:\\nWind a rubber band onto your axle so that it is close to the body, but not touching it. This will form a buffer between your wheel and the chassis of your car, but can create friction if it comes in contact with your chassis.\\nPush your wheels onto the axle rods. If you have larger drive wheels, these should go on the rear axle and the smaller wheels on the front axle.\\nYour axle dowels should extend past your wheel about 1\\\" (2.5 cm).\\n2-8. Prevent your wheels from coming off or unaligned.\\nYou can do this by wrapping a thin elastic band around your dowel just outside each of wheels. The elastic band will keep the wheels from falling off of the car.\\n3. Engaging Your Car\\n3-1. Tie your string to the snap-arm.\\nCarefully lift the snap-arm just enough to slide one end of your string beneath it. Then, wrap the string around the snap-arm and tie a tight knot to secure the string.\\nA general knot, like a square knot should work fine for attaching your string to the arm of your trap.\\n3-2. Cut your string.\\nBefore you do, make sure that it is long enough to reach past the car's rear axle. The longer the string, the longer time it will take for the force of your trap to be released, which will create slower acceleration but greater distance traveled.\\n3-3. Prepare your transmission string.\\nYour string is the part that will transfer force from the spring mechanism of your mousetrap to the rear wheels of your car. Pull back the snap-arm and hold it securely. While you are holding the snap-arm:\\nUse your free hand to wrap the string tightly around the car's rear axle.\\nContinue winding until no string remains.\\nThe string should be tight enough to hold down the snap-arm when held.\\n3-4. Prepare for a test drive.\\nPlace the car on the ground while still holding the snap-arm. Make sure you have a good grip on the end of the string. This should keep your snap-arm in place, and releasing should cause the arm to snap forward, propelling your car.\\n3-5. Release your car and watch it go.\\nMove your hands clear of your mousetrap car and let go of the string. The kinetic energy of the mousetrap spring will transfer through your string to your rear axle, causing your mousetrap car to travel forward a few feet, depending on construction and the length of the string.\\nTips\\nYou can replace the cardboard body with a stronger, wooden one, but remember it will be harder to add the eye hooks and cut the wood. Use tools at your own risk.\\nBe sure to clear a path in front of your mousetrap car. Obstacles may break the fragile design.\\nYou can also use the axles and wheels from a toy card to replace the cardboard and dowel. However, you will need superglue to stick the string in place.\\nWarnings\\nNever try this project with a rat trap. If the snapper arm of a rat trap releases early, the force could easily break someone's finger.\\nYoung children should only assemble a mousetrap car with adult assistance.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A mousetrap car makes for a great science project, physics classroom experiment, or a fun weekend activity. Mousetrap cars are frequently used to help students learn about mechanical advantage, distance, and gravity, with many teachers turning the experiment into a long-distance challenge. The stored potential energy in the spring of the mousetrap's snapper arm transforms into the kinetic energy that propels a car that you will make. But to create your own rodent roadster, you'll need the right materials, an understanding of a few physical principles, and a little effort.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Mousetrap Car\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Visualize your mousetrap car.\", \"描述\": \"You're going to need to attach your mousetrap to a chassis (or body), which will form the frame of your car, wheels, and an engine to power the contraption. These kinds of miniature cars are often used for physics experiment when learning about mechanical advantage, gravity, and gear ratios. For the purposes of this example, heavy cardboard will be used as the chassis, but you also might use:\\nFoam core.\\nThe body of an old toy car.\\nA piece of light, durable wood, like balsa wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use physics to your advantage for best results.\", \"描述\": \"You can modify the design of your car to achieve certain goals. For example, if your physics class is having a distance race competition, you'll want to:\\nLighten your car as much as possible. If using a solid chassis, this might include drilling holes in its frame and wheels.\\nUse wheels that are both thin and stiff.\\nDecrease air resistance by making the front of your car small and sleek.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Take into account the surface your car will run on.\", \"描述\": \"If your car will be traveling up a ramp or across hilly terrain, smaller wheels will be able to manage the incline better due to inertia. Flat surfaces, like table and floors, can be best traversed with larger wheels.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Gather your mousetrap car making materials.\", \"描述\": \"As previously mentioned, there are many different materials you might use to make your mousetrap car. Some additional options are listed in the \\\"Tips\\\" below. However, to make the mousetrap in this example, you will need:\\nCompass (for drawing circles)\\nDuct tape\\nDurable string\\nElastic bands/rubber bands\\nEye hooks (4)\\nHeavy cardboard or foam core\\nMousetrap\\nPliers\\nRuler\\nThin dowels (2)\\nUtility knife\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making the Wheels and Chassis\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make the wheels for your car.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need to create four wheels out of your heavy cardboard or foam core. To do this, take your compass or some other round object and your pencil to trace your wheels-to-be onto the cardboard. In this example, one inch (2.5 cm) diameter front wheels and two inch (5 cm) diameter rear wheels were used. After you've traced your wheels:\\nUse your utility knife to cut your wheels free.\\nAttach rubber bands around the outside edge of the wheel to give the wheels additional traction.\\nYou might also use CDs, DVDs, and vinyl records to make your wheels.\\n\\nNOTE: In this example, larger back wheels and smaller forward wheels are used.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove dangerous teeth from the snap-arm of your trap.\", \"描述\": \"Take your mousetrap and find the rod that is used to set it. There will likely be sharp teeth at the end of the rod. Carefully remove the rod, and if it has any sharp teeth, use your pliers to pull these free.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fashion your chassis from your heavy cardboard.\", \"描述\": \"To accommodate your mousetrap, you'll need your chassis to be about ½\\\" (13 mm) bigger on all sides than your trap. Measure and mark this out on your cardboard, and then use your utility knife to cut out your chassis from the cardboard.\\nBalsa or basswood make a light but more durable body for the car.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach your mousetrap to the top of your chassis.\", \"描述\": \"Center the mousetrap on top of the chassis and then, using duct tape or clear packaging tape, secure the mousetrap into place on all 4 sides.\\nWhile taping your trap into place you should avoid taping the spring. The spring should be found in the middle of the trap and snapper arm.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Align and attach your eye hooks to the bottom of your chassis.\", \"描述\": \"These eye hooks will hold the axle rods, which are the rod on which you will attach your wheels. If these hooks are out of line, your car won't travel straight, so you should:\\nUse your ruler and a pencil to mark the location of your eye hooks in the four corners of your chassis.\\nDouble check the marks are evenly lined up with your ruler.\\nScrew the eye hooks into place through the cardboard chassis where you have marked.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create your axle rods.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 2 thin skewers to a length about 4 centimeter (1.6 in) longer than the width of your eye hooks. These dowels/wooden skewer sticks will be the axle rods for the wheels that you made. They should be thin enough to slide through the eye hooks and spin freely.\\nEye hooks that are too thick or skewers that are too thin will cause the axle rod to pivot in its eye hook holder, which could affect the alignment of your car.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach your wheels to your axle rods.\", \"描述\": \"You should be able to poke holes in the center of each wheel with the point of your compass. This should create holes that are slightly smaller than the dowel rods. Then you should:\\nWind a rubber band onto your axle so that it is close to the body, but not touching it. This will form a buffer between your wheel and the chassis of your car, but can create friction if it comes in contact with your chassis.\\nPush your wheels onto the axle rods. If you have larger drive wheels, these should go on the rear axle and the smaller wheels on the front axle.\\nYour axle dowels should extend past your wheel about 1\\\" (2.5 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Prevent your wheels from coming off or unaligned.\", \"描述\": \"You can do this by wrapping a thin elastic band around your dowel just outside each of wheels. The elastic band will keep the wheels from falling off of the car.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Engaging Your Car\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Tie your string to the snap-arm.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully lift the snap-arm just enough to slide one end of your string beneath it. Then, wrap the string around the snap-arm and tie a tight knot to secure the string.\\nA general knot, like a square knot should work fine for attaching your string to the arm of your trap.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your string.\", \"描述\": \"Before you do, make sure that it is long enough to reach past the car's rear axle. The longer the string, the longer time it will take for the force of your trap to be released, which will create slower acceleration but greater distance traveled.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare your transmission string.\", \"描述\": \"Your string is the part that will transfer force from the spring mechanism of your mousetrap to the rear wheels of your car. Pull back the snap-arm and hold it securely. While you are holding the snap-arm:\\nUse your free hand to wrap the string tightly around the car's rear axle.\\nContinue winding until no string remains.\\nThe string should be tight enough to hold down the snap-arm when held.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Prepare for a test drive.\", \"描述\": \"Place the car on the ground while still holding the snap-arm. Make sure you have a good grip on the end of the string. This should keep your snap-arm in place, and releasing should cause the arm to snap forward, propelling your car.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Release your car and watch it go.\", \"描述\": \"Move your hands clear of your mousetrap car and let go of the string. The kinetic energy of the mousetrap spring will transfer through your string to your rear axle, causing your mousetrap car to travel forward a few feet, depending on construction and the length of the string.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can replace the cardboard body with a stronger, wooden one, but remember it will be harder to add the eye hooks and cut the wood. Use tools at your own risk.\\n\", \"Be sure to clear a path in front of your mousetrap car. Obstacles may break the fragile design.\\n\", \"You can also use the axles and wheels from a toy card to replace the cardboard and dowel. However, you will need superglue to stick the string in place.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Never try this project with a rat trap. If the snapper arm of a rat trap releases early, the force could easily break someone's finger.\\n\", \"Young children should only assemble a mousetrap car with adult assistance.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,448 |
How to Build a Muscular Physique
|
1. Building Muscle Through Strength Training
1-1. Begin a structured weightlifting program.
Once you’ve made the decision to improve your physique, the first thing you should do is start a dedicated strength training program. Your regimen should be comprehensive, targeting all the major muscle groups of the body, and you should perform workouts on a consistent basis, taking days off only to rest. If you want to build muscle, weight training must become part of your lifestyle.
It is extremely important to have an understanding of proper technique and body mechanics before you progress to lifting heavier weights. Failure to select a manageable load can result in injury.
1-2. Work out multiple times a week.
In the beginning, you should aim to lift weights around three days a week. Weight training can be tough on inexperienced muscles and joints, and an acclimation period is usually necessary to prepare the body to regularly overcome resistance. As you gain experience and your body becomes used to the strain, you can incorporate another workout or 2 per week, though you should still take a couple off days to allow for muscular recovery.
To make the most efficient use of your time in the gym, consider performing a traditional bodybuilding “split” workout, in which 2 or more muscle groups (e.g. back and biceps/legs and abs) are exercised consecutively during the same workout.
1-3. Concentrate on lifting heavy weight multiple times.
There is a persistent debate over the best number of sets and reps to perform to achieve certain goals, but most modern fitness research points to one simple rule: if you want to build muscle, you have to lift something heavy a lot of times. Don’t overthink it: start with a straightforward 3x10 structure (three sets of ten repetitions of a given exercise) until progress begins to slow, then either increase the weight you’re using or the number of reps you’re performing to keep improving.
Once you’ve gained a little experience with strength training, you can start experimenting with different weights and rep ranges to find out what works best for your body type: low reps (1 to 3) with extremely high weights are most often used to gain explosive strength, while high rep ranges (15 – 30) are useful for increasing endurance.
When implementing a set-rep scheme like a 3x10 or 5x5, you should pick a weight that’s heavy enough so that you can only perform that many repetitions per set.
1-4. Incorporate bodyweight movements.
Round out your weight training sessions with bodyweight movements like push ups, pull-ups, crunches and unweighted squats and lunges. Bodyweight exercises force you to stabilize and control the movement of your own body, which means they’re very effective at building muscle and translate well to athletic endeavors. While on your weight lifting journey, don’t forget about the basics.
Bodyweight exercises are a saving grace for many people who don’t have access to gym equipment, or with past injuries that make excessive weight-bearing movements too difficult; all you need is a few feet of space in your own home and the will to push yourself.
Try ending your workout with a series of “finishers” (exercises of moderate intensity performed for long periods, designed to totally exhaust you at the end of a session) consisting of bodyweight movements. Pushups, burpees, squat jumps and mountain climbers all work well for this purpose.
1-5. Feel the “mind/muscle connection.
When you lift weights, you should make an effort to be conscious of the way the muscle feels when exerting itself through the movement. This is what scientists and strength coaches refer to as the “mind/muscle connection.” The basic principle is that the more you concentrate on actively engaging a muscle during a particular lift, the more you’ll get out of that muscle and the better your results will be. The mind/muscle connection can help you get more bang for your buck so that you’re working efficiently, not just hard.
While performing a bicep curl, for example, fix your focus on the contraction of the muscle itself, think about how all parts of the movement feel and squeeze the muscle to keep the muscle fibers active throughout the lift.
Understanding basic kinesiology and the mechanical workings of the human body are an integral part of lifting weights.
2. Modifying Your Diet to Enhance Your Physique
2-1. Get plenty of protein.
Every tissue in your body is comprised of cellular proteins, and these are broken down and depleted when your body undergoes the strain of exercise. Replenish lost proteins and provide your body with enough to generate new muscular growth by consuming lean meats, eggs, nuts or dairy with every meal. Protein is the cornerstone of every bodybuilder’s diet.
Grilled, skinless chicken breasts, eggs cooked in olive oil instead of butter, almonds and skim milk are all excellent low-cost, high-protein choices.
Athletes and those seeking to build muscle mass require much more daily protein than the average person. A good general rule is to ingest at least half a gram of protein for every pound of your body weight per day (if you weigh 200 lbs, that’s 100 g of protein).
2-2. Use supplements to complete your diet.
Try adding basic supplements to your diet to ensure that you’re meeting your nutrition requirements. It can be difficult to get as much protein and other nutrients as you need every day from regular food. This is where supplements come in. A protein shake or bar can quickly net you 30 or 40 g of pure protein without the need to painstakingly prepare a meal. These supplements are available at any time and are a good way to stave off hunger cravings. They can even be used to replace meals if you’re in a hurry.
For most people, a high-quality whey protein supplement (and possibly some creatine, if you’re serious about packing on size) will be enough to supplement a standard diet.
Protein supplements are especially important for vegans and vegetarians seeking to build muscle mass, as the foods richest in protein are usually forbidden from these diets. Vegetarian and vegan proteins are derived from natural plant sources and function identically in the body.
While they are convenient, protein shakes, energy bars and other supplements should never take the place of fresh, whole food on a day-to-day basis. They are just that: supplements.
2-3. Eat green vegetables.
You always heard this as a child, and it’s still good advice now. Brightly-colored vegetables are full of antioxidants and other nutrients like iron, potassium, dietary fiber and vitamins. These should find a steady place in your diet.
Generally speaking, vegetables that are green, leafy, or come in especially bright or dark colors contain the highest concentrations of beneficial nutrients. This makes produce like broccoli, kale, spinach and sweet potatoes perfect for building a healthy body.
2-4. Choose the right fats and carbohydrates.
Fats and carbohydrates are calorie-dense food types, meaning they provide immediate and lasting energy to the body. While most people arguably rely too much on the availability and culinary appeal of these foods, they are indispensable for active individuals. The majority of your carbohydrates should come from “clean” sources, such as whole grains, fruits and vegetables (as opposed to enriched grains, starchy pastas, processed sugar, etc.), while for fats you should mostly stick to the mono- and polyunsaturated variety, which includes offerings like avocados, almonds, and olive oil.
Carbohydrates are essential for fueling strenuous activity, but can also easily cause unwanted fat production if you go overboard with them. Your recommended carb intake depends on a variety of factors (including age, weight, height, and activity level). Try an online calculator to determine how many grams of carbohydrates you should eat daily.
Mono- and polyunsaturated fats contain compounds that target free-radicals in the body’s cells, reversing oxidation damage and keeping you looking and feeling healthy.
2-5. Limit your intake of unhealthy foods.
This is a no-brainer, but everyone sometimes needs a gentle reminder, especially with the renewed popularity of junk food items like pizza, cupcakes and mac and cheese. Save these treats for a hard-earned cheat day, or for the first meal following a grueling workout, where most of the excess calories will be used to restore the muscles’ lost energy. Building a strong body requires restraint as well as effort — it would be a shame to blow a week’s worth of sweat on a couple ill-advised food choices.
Resist the urge to binge eat. If you’re hungry, make or order a balanced meal that contains at least 1/3 lean protein with a carbohydrate source and a fresh fruit or veggie. Don’t wait until you’re starving and can’t help but pull into the fast food drive-thru on your way home.
3. Improving Your Lifestyle and Habits
3-1. Take rest days.
You should be taking at least 2 days off from weight lifting and other exercise during the week. Few things are more important in building strong, healthy muscle mass than rest. When you perform weight-bearing exercise, you’re actually causing wear-and-tear on the muscles and joints that accumulates if not given adequate time to heal. Resting gives those hard-working muscle fibers time to recover and thicken, making them more resistant to strain and causing the muscle itself to grow larger.
Stagger your rest days so that they fall within your regular training routine. For instance, you might work out your back and biceps on Monday, your legs and core on Tuesday, rest Wednesday, exercise chest and triceps Thursday, go for a run Friday, rest Saturday, etc. That way, all your major muscle groups are receiving attention while being given ample time to rest between muscle-specific days, which 2 days a week to take off entirely.
Muscles that are not given a chance to recover and heal themselves will accumulate damage until they become prone to injury.
3-2. Go to sleep.
Make sure that you get sufficient rest. The human body does most of its repair work at a cellular level while you sleep. This means that small tears and strains are being fixed, fat is being metabolized for continual energy and new muscle is being constructed whenever you’re tucked in for the night. Too many people give themselves reasons not to get enough sleep, not realizing that sleep-deprivation and having a strong, healthy body are in opposition of each other.
Try to get 7 to 9 hours of sleep every night.
Turn off all visually and aurally-stimulating distractions at least 1 hour before bed. The electromagnetic energy from your TV, iPad or gaming system may be making it harder for you to fall asleep and stay that way.
3-3. Cut down on alcohol consumption.
Everybody loves a good party, but drinking too much alcohol always does more harm than good. This is equally true when it comes to your health and fitness. Not only is alcohol packed with non-nutritive calories, too much of it can leach calcium from your bones, making weightlifting difficult and dangerous. Don’t be afraid to have a couple beers on special occasions, but make sure it’s not an everyday occurrence, and beware of drinking to excess.
Most beers and liquors are distilled from fruits, vegetables and grains, which means they contain all of the carbohydrates from sugar with none of the nutritional value.
Alcohol consumption is also linked with tissue damage, nerve dysfunction and even organ failure in habitually large quantities.
3-4. Minimize stress
An often-overlooked aspect of putting on muscle is properly moderating the body’s hormonal levels. Natural hormones like testosterone play an important role in directing muscular growth, and these hormones can be negatively influenced by factors such as stress and anxiety. More than anything, stress is an inhibiting response — building the muscular physique you desire can become more of a challenge if your body’s resources are not being utilized effectively.
Find constructive ways of reducing stress. Practice positive thinking, take a few minutes for silent meditation at the end of the day or slip into a relaxing bath. Anything you can do to minimize the effect stress has on your life will enable you to reach new peaks in your fitness goals and quest for a healthy mind and body.
Exercise itself is one of the best forms of stress relief. Working out regularly will give you the body you want, but it will also let you blow off steam, work through daily stressors and achieve mental clarity.
Tips
Make sure to give each muscle group the focus it needs. It's tempting to want to exercise the more aesthetically-pleasing muscles more frequently, but this can lead to imbalances and disproportionate growth after a while.
Motivation is important, but discipline is key. It's far more important to get into a steadfast routine with workouts and dieting than it is to search endlessly for something to motivate you. Don't look for the inspiration to do it, just make up your mind to do it.
Building a muscular physique takes time. It often requires years of dedicated training to cultivate a body with impressive musculature. Don't be discouraged if your efforts don't seem to be rewarded right away. Stick with it: the most surefire way not to make progress is to give up.
Warnings
Be courteous and respectful of others at your gym. Wipe off equipment once you're finished with it, re-rack your weights when they're not in use and wait your turn with free weights and machines. You're all there for the same purpose; there's no reason to be inconsiderate.
Always be sure to warm up before engaging in strenuous exercise to avoid injury and be able to perform at your peak.
Don't let your ego prevent you from asking for a spot for heavier lifts. It's better to ask for a liftoff and not need it than to risk crushing yourself for pride's sake.
Cut off exercise after one or two hours. If you find that you're not fatigued after this long, you may need to up the intensity of your workouts. Overly prolonged exercise can have detrimental effects, including dehydration, ketosis and increased risk of injury. Rhabdomyolysis, the infamous "crossfitter's disease," is an irreversible muscular condition that is the result of overwork.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:51",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building Muscle Through Strength Training\\n1-1. Begin a structured weightlifting program.\\nOnce you’ve made the decision to improve your physique, the first thing you should do is start a dedicated strength training program. Your regimen should be comprehensive, targeting all the major muscle groups of the body, and you should perform workouts on a consistent basis, taking days off only to rest. If you want to build muscle, weight training must become part of your lifestyle.\\nIt is extremely important to have an understanding of proper technique and body mechanics before you progress to lifting heavier weights. Failure to select a manageable load can result in injury.\\n1-2. Work out multiple times a week.\\nIn the beginning, you should aim to lift weights around three days a week. Weight training can be tough on inexperienced muscles and joints, and an acclimation period is usually necessary to prepare the body to regularly overcome resistance. As you gain experience and your body becomes used to the strain, you can incorporate another workout or 2 per week, though you should still take a couple off days to allow for muscular recovery.\\nTo make the most efficient use of your time in the gym, consider performing a traditional bodybuilding “split” workout, in which 2 or more muscle groups (e.g. back and biceps/legs and abs) are exercised consecutively during the same workout.\\n1-3. Concentrate on lifting heavy weight multiple times.\\nThere is a persistent debate over the best number of sets and reps to perform to achieve certain goals, but most modern fitness research points to one simple rule: if you want to build muscle, you have to lift something heavy a lot of times. Don’t overthink it: start with a straightforward 3x10 structure (three sets of ten repetitions of a given exercise) until progress begins to slow, then either increase the weight you’re using or the number of reps you’re performing to keep improving.\\nOnce you’ve gained a little experience with strength training, you can start experimenting with different weights and rep ranges to find out what works best for your body type: low reps (1 to 3) with extremely high weights are most often used to gain explosive strength, while high rep ranges (15 – 30) are useful for increasing endurance.\\nWhen implementing a set-rep scheme like a 3x10 or 5x5, you should pick a weight that’s heavy enough so that you can only perform that many repetitions per set.\\n1-4. Incorporate bodyweight movements.\\nRound out your weight training sessions with bodyweight movements like push ups, pull-ups, crunches and unweighted squats and lunges. Bodyweight exercises force you to stabilize and control the movement of your own body, which means they’re very effective at building muscle and translate well to athletic endeavors. While on your weight lifting journey, don’t forget about the basics.\\nBodyweight exercises are a saving grace for many people who don’t have access to gym equipment, or with past injuries that make excessive weight-bearing movements too difficult; all you need is a few feet of space in your own home and the will to push yourself.\\nTry ending your workout with a series of “finishers” (exercises of moderate intensity performed for long periods, designed to totally exhaust you at the end of a session) consisting of bodyweight movements. Pushups, burpees, squat jumps and mountain climbers all work well for this purpose.\\n1-5. Feel the “mind/muscle connection.\\nWhen you lift weights, you should make an effort to be conscious of the way the muscle feels when exerting itself through the movement. This is what scientists and strength coaches refer to as the “mind/muscle connection.” The basic principle is that the more you concentrate on actively engaging a muscle during a particular lift, the more you’ll get out of that muscle and the better your results will be. The mind/muscle connection can help you get more bang for your buck so that you’re working efficiently, not just hard.\\nWhile performing a bicep curl, for example, fix your focus on the contraction of the muscle itself, think about how all parts of the movement feel and squeeze the muscle to keep the muscle fibers active throughout the lift.\\nUnderstanding basic kinesiology and the mechanical workings of the human body are an integral part of lifting weights.\\n2. Modifying Your Diet to Enhance Your Physique\\n2-1. Get plenty of protein.\\nEvery tissue in your body is comprised of cellular proteins, and these are broken down and depleted when your body undergoes the strain of exercise. Replenish lost proteins and provide your body with enough to generate new muscular growth by consuming lean meats, eggs, nuts or dairy with every meal. Protein is the cornerstone of every bodybuilder’s diet.\\nGrilled, skinless chicken breasts, eggs cooked in olive oil instead of butter, almonds and skim milk are all excellent low-cost, high-protein choices.\\nAthletes and those seeking to build muscle mass require much more daily protein than the average person. A good general rule is to ingest at least half a gram of protein for every pound of your body weight per day (if you weigh 200 lbs, that’s 100 g of protein).\\n2-2. Use supplements to complete your diet.\\nTry adding basic supplements to your diet to ensure that you’re meeting your nutrition requirements. It can be difficult to get as much protein and other nutrients as you need every day from regular food. This is where supplements come in. A protein shake or bar can quickly net you 30 or 40 g of pure protein without the need to painstakingly prepare a meal. These supplements are available at any time and are a good way to stave off hunger cravings. They can even be used to replace meals if you’re in a hurry.\\nFor most people, a high-quality whey protein supplement (and possibly some creatine, if you’re serious about packing on size) will be enough to supplement a standard diet.\\nProtein supplements are especially important for vegans and vegetarians seeking to build muscle mass, as the foods richest in protein are usually forbidden from these diets. Vegetarian and vegan proteins are derived from natural plant sources and function identically in the body.\\nWhile they are convenient, protein shakes, energy bars and other supplements should never take the place of fresh, whole food on a day-to-day basis. They are just that: supplements.\\n2-3. Eat green vegetables.\\nYou always heard this as a child, and it’s still good advice now. Brightly-colored vegetables are full of antioxidants and other nutrients like iron, potassium, dietary fiber and vitamins. These should find a steady place in your diet.\\nGenerally speaking, vegetables that are green, leafy, or come in especially bright or dark colors contain the highest concentrations of beneficial nutrients. This makes produce like broccoli, kale, spinach and sweet potatoes perfect for building a healthy body.\\n2-4. Choose the right fats and carbohydrates.\\nFats and carbohydrates are calorie-dense food types, meaning they provide immediate and lasting energy to the body. While most people arguably rely too much on the availability and culinary appeal of these foods, they are indispensable for active individuals. The majority of your carbohydrates should come from “clean” sources, such as whole grains, fruits and vegetables (as opposed to enriched grains, starchy pastas, processed sugar, etc.), while for fats you should mostly stick to the mono- and polyunsaturated variety, which includes offerings like avocados, almonds, and olive oil.\\nCarbohydrates are essential for fueling strenuous activity, but can also easily cause unwanted fat production if you go overboard with them. Your recommended carb intake depends on a variety of factors (including age, weight, height, and activity level). Try an online calculator to determine how many grams of carbohydrates you should eat daily.\\nMono- and polyunsaturated fats contain compounds that target free-radicals in the body’s cells, reversing oxidation damage and keeping you looking and feeling healthy.\\n2-5. Limit your intake of unhealthy foods.\\nThis is a no-brainer, but everyone sometimes needs a gentle reminder, especially with the renewed popularity of junk food items like pizza, cupcakes and mac and cheese. Save these treats for a hard-earned cheat day, or for the first meal following a grueling workout, where most of the excess calories will be used to restore the muscles’ lost energy. Building a strong body requires restraint as well as effort — it would be a shame to blow a week’s worth of sweat on a couple ill-advised food choices.\\nResist the urge to binge eat. If you’re hungry, make or order a balanced meal that contains at least 1/3 lean protein with a carbohydrate source and a fresh fruit or veggie. Don’t wait until you’re starving and can’t help but pull into the fast food drive-thru on your way home.\\n3. Improving Your Lifestyle and Habits\\n3-1. Take rest days.\\nYou should be taking at least 2 days off from weight lifting and other exercise during the week. Few things are more important in building strong, healthy muscle mass than rest. When you perform weight-bearing exercise, you’re actually causing wear-and-tear on the muscles and joints that accumulates if not given adequate time to heal. Resting gives those hard-working muscle fibers time to recover and thicken, making them more resistant to strain and causing the muscle itself to grow larger.\\nStagger your rest days so that they fall within your regular training routine. For instance, you might work out your back and biceps on Monday, your legs and core on Tuesday, rest Wednesday, exercise chest and triceps Thursday, go for a run Friday, rest Saturday, etc. That way, all your major muscle groups are receiving attention while being given ample time to rest between muscle-specific days, which 2 days a week to take off entirely.\\nMuscles that are not given a chance to recover and heal themselves will accumulate damage until they become prone to injury.\\n3-2. Go to sleep.\\nMake sure that you get sufficient rest. The human body does most of its repair work at a cellular level while you sleep. This means that small tears and strains are being fixed, fat is being metabolized for continual energy and new muscle is being constructed whenever you’re tucked in for the night. Too many people give themselves reasons not to get enough sleep, not realizing that sleep-deprivation and having a strong, healthy body are in opposition of each other.\\nTry to get 7 to 9 hours of sleep every night.\\nTurn off all visually and aurally-stimulating distractions at least 1 hour before bed. The electromagnetic energy from your TV, iPad or gaming system may be making it harder for you to fall asleep and stay that way.\\n3-3. Cut down on alcohol consumption.\\nEverybody loves a good party, but drinking too much alcohol always does more harm than good. This is equally true when it comes to your health and fitness. Not only is alcohol packed with non-nutritive calories, too much of it can leach calcium from your bones, making weightlifting difficult and dangerous. Don’t be afraid to have a couple beers on special occasions, but make sure it’s not an everyday occurrence, and beware of drinking to excess.\\nMost beers and liquors are distilled from fruits, vegetables and grains, which means they contain all of the carbohydrates from sugar with none of the nutritional value.\\nAlcohol consumption is also linked with tissue damage, nerve dysfunction and even organ failure in habitually large quantities.\\n3-4. Minimize stress\\nAn often-overlooked aspect of putting on muscle is properly moderating the body’s hormonal levels. Natural hormones like testosterone play an important role in directing muscular growth, and these hormones can be negatively influenced by factors such as stress and anxiety. More than anything, stress is an inhibiting response — building the muscular physique you desire can become more of a challenge if your body’s resources are not being utilized effectively.\\nFind constructive ways of reducing stress. Practice positive thinking, take a few minutes for silent meditation at the end of the day or slip into a relaxing bath. Anything you can do to minimize the effect stress has on your life will enable you to reach new peaks in your fitness goals and quest for a healthy mind and body.\\nExercise itself is one of the best forms of stress relief. Working out regularly will give you the body you want, but it will also let you blow off steam, work through daily stressors and achieve mental clarity.\\nTips\\nMake sure to give each muscle group the focus it needs. It's tempting to want to exercise the more aesthetically-pleasing muscles more frequently, but this can lead to imbalances and disproportionate growth after a while.\\nMotivation is important, but discipline is key. It's far more important to get into a steadfast routine with workouts and dieting than it is to search endlessly for something to motivate you. Don't look for the inspiration to do it, just make up your mind to do it.\\nBuilding a muscular physique takes time. It often requires years of dedicated training to cultivate a body with impressive musculature. Don't be discouraged if your efforts don't seem to be rewarded right away. Stick with it: the most surefire way not to make progress is to give up.\\nWarnings\\nBe courteous and respectful of others at your gym. Wipe off equipment once you're finished with it, re-rack your weights when they're not in use and wait your turn with free weights and machines. You're all there for the same purpose; there's no reason to be inconsiderate.\\nAlways be sure to warm up before engaging in strenuous exercise to avoid injury and be able to perform at your peak.\\nDon't let your ego prevent you from asking for a spot for heavier lifts. It's better to ask for a liftoff and not need it than to risk crushing yourself for pride's sake.\\nCut off exercise after one or two hours. If you find that you're not fatigued after this long, you may need to up the intensity of your workouts. Overly prolonged exercise can have detrimental effects, including dehydration, ketosis and increased risk of injury. Rhabdomyolysis, the infamous \\\"crossfitter's disease,\\\" is an irreversible muscular condition that is the result of overwork.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Having a strong, aesthetic physique is a universal desire. Seeing the rippling, toned bodies of athletes and fitness models may make having a muscular build seem like an unattainable goal, but anyone can improve their physique, as well as their fitness and general health, by beginning an intensive resistance training regimen and making the right dietary choices.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building Muscle Through Strength Training\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Begin a structured weightlifting program.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve made the decision to improve your physique, the first thing you should do is start a dedicated strength training program. Your regimen should be comprehensive, targeting all the major muscle groups of the body, and you should perform workouts on a consistent basis, taking days off only to rest. If you want to build muscle, weight training must become part of your lifestyle.\\nIt is extremely important to have an understanding of proper technique and body mechanics before you progress to lifting heavier weights. Failure to select a manageable load can result in injury.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Work out multiple times a week.\", \"描述\": \"In the beginning, you should aim to lift weights around three days a week. Weight training can be tough on inexperienced muscles and joints, and an acclimation period is usually necessary to prepare the body to regularly overcome resistance. As you gain experience and your body becomes used to the strain, you can incorporate another workout or 2 per week, though you should still take a couple off days to allow for muscular recovery.\\nTo make the most efficient use of your time in the gym, consider performing a traditional bodybuilding “split” workout, in which 2 or more muscle groups (e.g. back and biceps/legs and abs) are exercised consecutively during the same workout.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Concentrate on lifting heavy weight multiple times.\", \"描述\": \"There is a persistent debate over the best number of sets and reps to perform to achieve certain goals, but most modern fitness research points to one simple rule: if you want to build muscle, you have to lift something heavy a lot of times. Don’t overthink it: start with a straightforward 3x10 structure (three sets of ten repetitions of a given exercise) until progress begins to slow, then either increase the weight you’re using or the number of reps you’re performing to keep improving.\\nOnce you’ve gained a little experience with strength training, you can start experimenting with different weights and rep ranges to find out what works best for your body type: low reps (1 to 3) with extremely high weights are most often used to gain explosive strength, while high rep ranges (15 – 30) are useful for increasing endurance.\\nWhen implementing a set-rep scheme like a 3x10 or 5x5, you should pick a weight that’s heavy enough so that you can only perform that many repetitions per set.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Incorporate bodyweight movements.\", \"描述\": \"Round out your weight training sessions with bodyweight movements like push ups, pull-ups, crunches and unweighted squats and lunges. Bodyweight exercises force you to stabilize and control the movement of your own body, which means they’re very effective at building muscle and translate well to athletic endeavors. While on your weight lifting journey, don’t forget about the basics.\\nBodyweight exercises are a saving grace for many people who don’t have access to gym equipment, or with past injuries that make excessive weight-bearing movements too difficult; all you need is a few feet of space in your own home and the will to push yourself.\\nTry ending your workout with a series of “finishers” (exercises of moderate intensity performed for long periods, designed to totally exhaust you at the end of a session) consisting of bodyweight movements. Pushups, burpees, squat jumps and mountain climbers all work well for this purpose.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Feel the “mind/muscle connection.\", \"描述\": \"When you lift weights, you should make an effort to be conscious of the way the muscle feels when exerting itself through the movement. This is what scientists and strength coaches refer to as the “mind/muscle connection.” The basic principle is that the more you concentrate on actively engaging a muscle during a particular lift, the more you’ll get out of that muscle and the better your results will be. The mind/muscle connection can help you get more bang for your buck so that you’re working efficiently, not just hard.\\nWhile performing a bicep curl, for example, fix your focus on the contraction of the muscle itself, think about how all parts of the movement feel and squeeze the muscle to keep the muscle fibers active throughout the lift.\\nUnderstanding basic kinesiology and the mechanical workings of the human body are an integral part of lifting weights.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Modifying Your Diet to Enhance Your Physique\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get plenty of protein.\", \"描述\": \"Every tissue in your body is comprised of cellular proteins, and these are broken down and depleted when your body undergoes the strain of exercise. Replenish lost proteins and provide your body with enough to generate new muscular growth by consuming lean meats, eggs, nuts or dairy with every meal. Protein is the cornerstone of every bodybuilder’s diet.\\nGrilled, skinless chicken breasts, eggs cooked in olive oil instead of butter, almonds and skim milk are all excellent low-cost, high-protein choices.\\nAthletes and those seeking to build muscle mass require much more daily protein than the average person. A good general rule is to ingest at least half a gram of protein for every pound of your body weight per day (if you weigh 200 lbs, that’s 100 g of protein).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use supplements to complete your diet.\", \"描述\": \"Try adding basic supplements to your diet to ensure that you’re meeting your nutrition requirements. It can be difficult to get as much protein and other nutrients as you need every day from regular food. This is where supplements come in. A protein shake or bar can quickly net you 30 or 40 g of pure protein without the need to painstakingly prepare a meal. These supplements are available at any time and are a good way to stave off hunger cravings. They can even be used to replace meals if you’re in a hurry.\\nFor most people, a high-quality whey protein supplement (and possibly some creatine, if you’re serious about packing on size) will be enough to supplement a standard diet.\\nProtein supplements are especially important for vegans and vegetarians seeking to build muscle mass, as the foods richest in protein are usually forbidden from these diets. Vegetarian and vegan proteins are derived from natural plant sources and function identically in the body.\\nWhile they are convenient, protein shakes, energy bars and other supplements should never take the place of fresh, whole food on a day-to-day basis. They are just that: supplements.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Eat green vegetables.\", \"描述\": \"You always heard this as a child, and it’s still good advice now. Brightly-colored vegetables are full of antioxidants and other nutrients like iron, potassium, dietary fiber and vitamins. These should find a steady place in your diet.\\nGenerally speaking, vegetables that are green, leafy, or come in especially bright or dark colors contain the highest concentrations of beneficial nutrients. This makes produce like broccoli, kale, spinach and sweet potatoes perfect for building a healthy body.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose the right fats and carbohydrates.\", \"描述\": \"Fats and carbohydrates are calorie-dense food types, meaning they provide immediate and lasting energy to the body. While most people arguably rely too much on the availability and culinary appeal of these foods, they are indispensable for active individuals. The majority of your carbohydrates should come from “clean” sources, such as whole grains, fruits and vegetables (as opposed to enriched grains, starchy pastas, processed sugar, etc.), while for fats you should mostly stick to the mono- and polyunsaturated variety, which includes offerings like avocados, almonds, and olive oil.\\nCarbohydrates are essential for fueling strenuous activity, but can also easily cause unwanted fat production if you go overboard with them. Your recommended carb intake depends on a variety of factors (including age, weight, height, and activity level). Try an online calculator to determine how many grams of carbohydrates you should eat daily.\\nMono- and polyunsaturated fats contain compounds that target free-radicals in the body’s cells, reversing oxidation damage and keeping you looking and feeling healthy.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Limit your intake of unhealthy foods.\", \"描述\": \"This is a no-brainer, but everyone sometimes needs a gentle reminder, especially with the renewed popularity of junk food items like pizza, cupcakes and mac and cheese. Save these treats for a hard-earned cheat day, or for the first meal following a grueling workout, where most of the excess calories will be used to restore the muscles’ lost energy. Building a strong body requires restraint as well as effort — it would be a shame to blow a week’s worth of sweat on a couple ill-advised food choices.\\nResist the urge to binge eat. If you’re hungry, make or order a balanced meal that contains at least 1/3 lean protein with a carbohydrate source and a fresh fruit or veggie. Don’t wait until you’re starving and can’t help but pull into the fast food drive-thru on your way home.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Improving Your Lifestyle and Habits\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take rest days.\", \"描述\": \"You should be taking at least 2 days off from weight lifting and other exercise during the week. Few things are more important in building strong, healthy muscle mass than rest. When you perform weight-bearing exercise, you’re actually causing wear-and-tear on the muscles and joints that accumulates if not given adequate time to heal. Resting gives those hard-working muscle fibers time to recover and thicken, making them more resistant to strain and causing the muscle itself to grow larger.\\nStagger your rest days so that they fall within your regular training routine. For instance, you might work out your back and biceps on Monday, your legs and core on Tuesday, rest Wednesday, exercise chest and triceps Thursday, go for a run Friday, rest Saturday, etc. That way, all your major muscle groups are receiving attention while being given ample time to rest between muscle-specific days, which 2 days a week to take off entirely.\\nMuscles that are not given a chance to recover and heal themselves will accumulate damage until they become prone to injury.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Go to sleep.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that you get sufficient rest. The human body does most of its repair work at a cellular level while you sleep. This means that small tears and strains are being fixed, fat is being metabolized for continual energy and new muscle is being constructed whenever you’re tucked in for the night. Too many people give themselves reasons not to get enough sleep, not realizing that sleep-deprivation and having a strong, healthy body are in opposition of each other.\\nTry to get 7 to 9 hours of sleep every night.\\nTurn off all visually and aurally-stimulating distractions at least 1 hour before bed. The electromagnetic energy from your TV, iPad or gaming system may be making it harder for you to fall asleep and stay that way.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut down on alcohol consumption.\", \"描述\": \"Everybody loves a good party, but drinking too much alcohol always does more harm than good. This is equally true when it comes to your health and fitness. Not only is alcohol packed with non-nutritive calories, too much of it can leach calcium from your bones, making weightlifting difficult and dangerous. Don’t be afraid to have a couple beers on special occasions, but make sure it’s not an everyday occurrence, and beware of drinking to excess.\\nMost beers and liquors are distilled from fruits, vegetables and grains, which means they contain all of the carbohydrates from sugar with none of the nutritional value.\\nAlcohol consumption is also linked with tissue damage, nerve dysfunction and even organ failure in habitually large quantities.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Minimize stress\", \"描述\": \"An often-overlooked aspect of putting on muscle is properly moderating the body’s hormonal levels. Natural hormones like testosterone play an important role in directing muscular growth, and these hormones can be negatively influenced by factors such as stress and anxiety. More than anything, stress is an inhibiting response — building the muscular physique you desire can become more of a challenge if your body’s resources are not being utilized effectively.\\nFind constructive ways of reducing stress. Practice positive thinking, take a few minutes for silent meditation at the end of the day or slip into a relaxing bath. Anything you can do to minimize the effect stress has on your life will enable you to reach new peaks in your fitness goals and quest for a healthy mind and body.\\nExercise itself is one of the best forms of stress relief. Working out regularly will give you the body you want, but it will also let you blow off steam, work through daily stressors and achieve mental clarity.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Make sure to give each muscle group the focus it needs. It's tempting to want to exercise the more aesthetically-pleasing muscles more frequently, but this can lead to imbalances and disproportionate growth after a while.\\n\", \"Motivation is important, but discipline is key. It's far more important to get into a steadfast routine with workouts and dieting than it is to search endlessly for something to motivate you. Don't look for the inspiration to do it, just make up your mind to do it.\\n\", \"Building a muscular physique takes time. It often requires years of dedicated training to cultivate a body with impressive musculature. Don't be discouraged if your efforts don't seem to be rewarded right away. Stick with it: the most surefire way not to make progress is to give up.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be courteous and respectful of others at your gym. Wipe off equipment once you're finished with it, re-rack your weights when they're not in use and wait your turn with free weights and machines. You're all there for the same purpose; there's no reason to be inconsiderate.\\n\", \"Always be sure to warm up before engaging in strenuous exercise to avoid injury and be able to perform at your peak.\\n\", \"Don't let your ego prevent you from asking for a spot for heavier lifts. It's better to ask for a liftoff and not need it than to risk crushing yourself for pride's sake.\\n\", \"Cut off exercise after one or two hours. If you find that you're not fatigued after this long, you may need to up the intensity of your workouts. Overly prolonged exercise can have detrimental effects, including dehydration, ketosis and increased risk of injury. Rhabdomyolysis, the infamous \\\"crossfitter's disease,\\\" is an irreversible muscular condition that is the result of overwork.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,449 |
How to Build a Natural Shelter in the Jungle
|
1. Finding the Right Location
1-1. Put your shelter on a dry, flat piece of land.
Any moisture on the ground will penetrate through your clothes and make you cold in the night. Feel the ground to see if it’s dry or muddy before settling on a location. A flat spot also ensures that rain won’t run down a slope into your shelter.
If you can’t find any flat areas, dig trenches in the ground to divert the water away from where you want to build your shelter.
1-2. Stay on higher ground away from bodies of water.
While you should be a short distance away from a water source, don’t set up your camp next to a river or lake. If it rains or the river floods, you and your shelter could get damp or washed away. Avoid setting your camp in ravines or on low ground for the same reason.
Don’t set up in deep valleys since cold air will settle there at night.
1-3. Find an area surrounded by trees to block the wind.
If there are cold winds in your area, trees will help buffet them so you can stay warm. Try to find a place with thick foliage to protect yourself from the elements and to stay hidden.
If you want to be found, stay close to open areas where you can attract planes flying overhead.
1-4. Look above the area for any signs of danger.
Check for anything over your head that could cause harm to you or damage your shelter. Look for dead tree limbs, loose rocks, or mud since these could easily break and fall down on top of you.
2. Constructing a Lean-To
2-1. Find a rock or fallen tree to build your lean-to against.
Look for an object that’s at least as long as your body. Lie on the ground next to it to see if it’s taller than you to determine if you have space to comfortably spend the night. On top of being the main support for your lean-to, the rock or tree will act as a barrier against the wind and rain.
If you can’t find anything that works, prop a long branch on 2 low tree limbs for the main support.
2-2. Lean long fallen branches at an angle against the solid surface.
Set the branches close together at a 45-degree angle so you have enough space to lie down underneath the shelter. Make sure there aren’t any cracks in between the branches or else wind or rain could easily get inside.
Use smaller branches to fill in any holes.
For more stability, dig a trench in the ground for a place to rest the ends of the branches.
2-3. Cover the structure with dead leaves and bark to shield against the elements.
Layer the insulation so it’s about 1 ft (0.30 m) thick. This will help fill any smaller cracks and add further protection against the outdoor elements.
You may need to walk around a bit to find enough dead leaves and bark to cover the entire structure.
2-4. Lay more branches on top of the insulation so it doesn't blow away.
Use sturdy, heavy branches that will weigh the insulation down. Keep adding branches until the insulation is completely covered.
2-5. Lay 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) of dead, dry leaves on the ground inside.
Collect as much dead foliage as you can and line the ground with it. This will add some comfort to your shelter when you lie down.
Avoid using fresh green leaves since you may crush the moisture out of them and get your clothes damp.
3. Building an A-Frame Shelter
3-1. Set up 2 sturdy branches to form an “A” shape.
Use branches that are at least 1 ⁄2–2 feet (0.46–0.61 m) in length. Stand them on end and lean them together so their tops meet. Use grass, rope, or your shoelaces to tie them together so the tops form a small "V."
You could also find tall logs to use.
Set the branches so the opening under the branches faces away from the wind.
3-2. Tie a stick that's 2 ft (0.61 m) taller than you to the tops of the A-frame.
Make sure the stick is mostly straight. Rest one end in the small "V" at the top of the A-frame and the other end on the ground. Check to see if you have enough room to lie under the shelter completely. Tie the longer branch to the frame so the longer branch doesn’t move around or shift.
Dig a small hole to rest the other end of the branch in if you want added stability.
3-3. Cover the ground under the structure with dry leaves and grass.
Use at least 6–10 in (15–25 cm) of bedding so you aren’t lying on the ground. Avoid using any fresh green leaves since these could easily transfer moisture to your body.
3-4. Lean solid branches on each side of the long stick to form a ribcage.
Lay the branches on each side of the shelter so they are at a 45-degree angle to the main branch. Break or cut any branches that extend past the long branch so your shelter is compact. Fill in all the cracks between the branches as best as you can.
Use smaller branches to cover any holes or cracks and to prevent debris from falling through.
3-5. Place dead branches and leaves on top of the ribcage.
Start from the bottom of the structure and layer the debris onto the framework you made. The thicker you make your insulation, the warmer you’ll stay and the more camouflaged you’ll be. Aim to layer the leaves at least 2 ft (0.61 m) thick.
Cover the opening of your A-frame with more sticks if you want to completely close your shelter when you’re sleeping or away.
4. Making a Teepee
4-1. Prop 3 long branches against each other to form a tripod frame.
Use branches that are the same length so they’re easier to manage. Tie one end of the branches together with plant fiber, rope, shoelaces, or a belt before standing them upright. Set the branches so they are equal distances apart.
The size of the branches depends on how many people you want to fit inside. At the very least, spread the 3 branches far enough apart for you to comfortably lay down.
Lean the branches in a circle against a tree trunk if you want extra support.
4-2. Lean more branches of the same length against the tripod frame.
Find more branches that are similar in length to surround the rest of the teepee. When you place one branch, go to the opposite side of the teepee and place another branch so your teepee stays balanced.
Remember to leave a gap on one side so you can get in and out of your shelter.
4-3. Fill in cracks with smaller branches.
Once you have the main structure built, look for any cracks or holes in the frame of your teepee. Use smaller and thinner sticks to fill them in so wind and rain doesn’t get inside of your shelter. Try to cover as many of the cracks as you can.
4-4. Cover the outside with leafy branches for insulation.
Use sturdy branches that have leaves on them to add extra insulation to your teepee. Lean them evenly across the teepee so it is insulated as much as possible.
Dead leaves and debris will blow away in strong winds unless you use more branches to hold them in place.
Tips
Make your shelters as small as you comfortably can to retain the most heat.
Warnings
Many of these structures are temporary and will need to be repaired or rebuilt after severe weather.
Watch for insects and poisonous plants in your bedding before you lie down.
Watch out for any dangerous objects above you and your shelter, such as dead limbs, rocks, or mud.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:51",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Finding the Right Location\\n1-1. Put your shelter on a dry, flat piece of land.\\nAny moisture on the ground will penetrate through your clothes and make you cold in the night. Feel the ground to see if it’s dry or muddy before settling on a location. A flat spot also ensures that rain won’t run down a slope into your shelter.\\nIf you can’t find any flat areas, dig trenches in the ground to divert the water away from where you want to build your shelter.\\n1-2. Stay on higher ground away from bodies of water.\\nWhile you should be a short distance away from a water source, don’t set up your camp next to a river or lake. If it rains or the river floods, you and your shelter could get damp or washed away. Avoid setting your camp in ravines or on low ground for the same reason.\\nDon’t set up in deep valleys since cold air will settle there at night.\\n1-3. Find an area surrounded by trees to block the wind.\\nIf there are cold winds in your area, trees will help buffet them so you can stay warm. Try to find a place with thick foliage to protect yourself from the elements and to stay hidden.\\nIf you want to be found, stay close to open areas where you can attract planes flying overhead.\\n1-4. Look above the area for any signs of danger.\\nCheck for anything over your head that could cause harm to you or damage your shelter. Look for dead tree limbs, loose rocks, or mud since these could easily break and fall down on top of you.\\n2. Constructing a Lean-To\\n2-1. Find a rock or fallen tree to build your lean-to against.\\nLook for an object that’s at least as long as your body. Lie on the ground next to it to see if it’s taller than you to determine if you have space to comfortably spend the night. On top of being the main support for your lean-to, the rock or tree will act as a barrier against the wind and rain.\\nIf you can’t find anything that works, prop a long branch on 2 low tree limbs for the main support.\\n2-2. Lean long fallen branches at an angle against the solid surface.\\nSet the branches close together at a 45-degree angle so you have enough space to lie down underneath the shelter. Make sure there aren’t any cracks in between the branches or else wind or rain could easily get inside.\\nUse smaller branches to fill in any holes.\\nFor more stability, dig a trench in the ground for a place to rest the ends of the branches.\\n2-3. Cover the structure with dead leaves and bark to shield against the elements.\\nLayer the insulation so it’s about 1 ft (0.30 m) thick. This will help fill any smaller cracks and add further protection against the outdoor elements.\\nYou may need to walk around a bit to find enough dead leaves and bark to cover the entire structure.\\n2-4. Lay more branches on top of the insulation so it doesn't blow away.\\nUse sturdy, heavy branches that will weigh the insulation down. Keep adding branches until the insulation is completely covered.\\n2-5. Lay 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) of dead, dry leaves on the ground inside.\\nCollect as much dead foliage as you can and line the ground with it. This will add some comfort to your shelter when you lie down.\\nAvoid using fresh green leaves since you may crush the moisture out of them and get your clothes damp.\\n3. Building an A-Frame Shelter\\n3-1. Set up 2 sturdy branches to form an “A” shape.\\nUse branches that are at least 1 ⁄2–2 feet (0.46–0.61 m) in length. Stand them on end and lean them together so their tops meet. Use grass, rope, or your shoelaces to tie them together so the tops form a small \\\"V.\\\"\\nYou could also find tall logs to use.\\nSet the branches so the opening under the branches faces away from the wind.\\n3-2. Tie a stick that's 2 ft (0.61 m) taller than you to the tops of the A-frame.\\nMake sure the stick is mostly straight. Rest one end in the small \\\"V\\\" at the top of the A-frame and the other end on the ground. Check to see if you have enough room to lie under the shelter completely. Tie the longer branch to the frame so the longer branch doesn’t move around or shift.\\nDig a small hole to rest the other end of the branch in if you want added stability.\\n3-3. Cover the ground under the structure with dry leaves and grass.\\nUse at least 6–10 in (15–25 cm) of bedding so you aren’t lying on the ground. Avoid using any fresh green leaves since these could easily transfer moisture to your body.\\n3-4. Lean solid branches on each side of the long stick to form a ribcage.\\nLay the branches on each side of the shelter so they are at a 45-degree angle to the main branch. Break or cut any branches that extend past the long branch so your shelter is compact. Fill in all the cracks between the branches as best as you can.\\nUse smaller branches to cover any holes or cracks and to prevent debris from falling through.\\n3-5. Place dead branches and leaves on top of the ribcage.\\nStart from the bottom of the structure and layer the debris onto the framework you made. The thicker you make your insulation, the warmer you’ll stay and the more camouflaged you’ll be. Aim to layer the leaves at least 2 ft (0.61 m) thick.\\nCover the opening of your A-frame with more sticks if you want to completely close your shelter when you’re sleeping or away.\\n4. Making a Teepee\\n4-1. Prop 3 long branches against each other to form a tripod frame.\\nUse branches that are the same length so they’re easier to manage. Tie one end of the branches together with plant fiber, rope, shoelaces, or a belt before standing them upright. Set the branches so they are equal distances apart.\\nThe size of the branches depends on how many people you want to fit inside. At the very least, spread the 3 branches far enough apart for you to comfortably lay down.\\nLean the branches in a circle against a tree trunk if you want extra support.\\n4-2. Lean more branches of the same length against the tripod frame.\\nFind more branches that are similar in length to surround the rest of the teepee. When you place one branch, go to the opposite side of the teepee and place another branch so your teepee stays balanced.\\nRemember to leave a gap on one side so you can get in and out of your shelter.\\n4-3. Fill in cracks with smaller branches.\\nOnce you have the main structure built, look for any cracks or holes in the frame of your teepee. Use smaller and thinner sticks to fill them in so wind and rain doesn’t get inside of your shelter. Try to cover as many of the cracks as you can.\\n4-4. Cover the outside with leafy branches for insulation.\\nUse sturdy branches that have leaves on them to add extra insulation to your teepee. Lean them evenly across the teepee so it is insulated as much as possible.\\nDead leaves and debris will blow away in strong winds unless you use more branches to hold them in place.\\nTips\\nMake your shelters as small as you comfortably can to retain the most heat.\\nWarnings\\nMany of these structures are temporary and will need to be repaired or rebuilt after severe weather.\\nWatch for insects and poisonous plants in your bedding before you lie down.\\nWatch out for any dangerous objects above you and your shelter, such as dead limbs, rocks, or mud.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you’re lost or staying out in the jungle, a shelter is important if you want to stay dry and safe from the elements. Even if you don’t have any tools, you can work with the natural resources around you to make a sturdy place to sleep. Once you find the right location, you can make a number of different shelters in a short amount of time!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Finding the Right Location\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put your shelter on a dry, flat piece of land.\", \"描述\": \"Any moisture on the ground will penetrate through your clothes and make you cold in the night. Feel the ground to see if it’s dry or muddy before settling on a location. A flat spot also ensures that rain won’t run down a slope into your shelter.\\nIf you can’t find any flat areas, dig trenches in the ground to divert the water away from where you want to build your shelter.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Stay on higher ground away from bodies of water.\", \"描述\": \"While you should be a short distance away from a water source, don’t set up your camp next to a river or lake. If it rains or the river floods, you and your shelter could get damp or washed away. Avoid setting your camp in ravines or on low ground for the same reason.\\nDon’t set up in deep valleys since cold air will settle there at night.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find an area surrounded by trees to block the wind.\", \"描述\": \"If there are cold winds in your area, trees will help buffet them so you can stay warm. Try to find a place with thick foliage to protect yourself from the elements and to stay hidden.\\nIf you want to be found, stay close to open areas where you can attract planes flying overhead.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Look above the area for any signs of danger.\", \"描述\": \"Check for anything over your head that could cause harm to you or damage your shelter. Look for dead tree limbs, loose rocks, or mud since these could easily break and fall down on top of you.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing a Lean-To\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a rock or fallen tree to build your lean-to against.\", \"描述\": \"Look for an object that’s at least as long as your body. Lie on the ground next to it to see if it’s taller than you to determine if you have space to comfortably spend the night. On top of being the main support for your lean-to, the rock or tree will act as a barrier against the wind and rain.\\nIf you can’t find anything that works, prop a long branch on 2 low tree limbs for the main support.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lean long fallen branches at an angle against the solid surface.\", \"描述\": \"Set the branches close together at a 45-degree angle so you have enough space to lie down underneath the shelter. Make sure there aren’t any cracks in between the branches or else wind or rain could easily get inside.\\nUse smaller branches to fill in any holes.\\nFor more stability, dig a trench in the ground for a place to rest the ends of the branches.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover the structure with dead leaves and bark to shield against the elements.\", \"描述\": \"Layer the insulation so it’s about 1 ft (0.30 m) thick. This will help fill any smaller cracks and add further protection against the outdoor elements.\\nYou may need to walk around a bit to find enough dead leaves and bark to cover the entire structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay more branches on top of the insulation so it doesn't blow away.\", \"描述\": \"Use sturdy, heavy branches that will weigh the insulation down. Keep adding branches until the insulation is completely covered.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lay 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) of dead, dry leaves on the ground inside.\", \"描述\": \"Collect as much dead foliage as you can and line the ground with it. This will add some comfort to your shelter when you lie down.\\nAvoid using fresh green leaves since you may crush the moisture out of them and get your clothes damp.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building an A-Frame Shelter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set up 2 sturdy branches to form an “A” shape.\", \"描述\": \"Use branches that are at least 1 ⁄2–2 feet (0.46–0.61 m) in length. Stand them on end and lean them together so their tops meet. Use grass, rope, or your shoelaces to tie them together so the tops form a small \\\"V.\\\"\\nYou could also find tall logs to use.\\nSet the branches so the opening under the branches faces away from the wind.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tie a stick that's 2 ft (0.61 m) taller than you to the tops of the A-frame.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the stick is mostly straight. Rest one end in the small \\\"V\\\" at the top of the A-frame and the other end on the ground. Check to see if you have enough room to lie under the shelter completely. Tie the longer branch to the frame so the longer branch doesn’t move around or shift.\\nDig a small hole to rest the other end of the branch in if you want added stability.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover the ground under the structure with dry leaves and grass.\", \"描述\": \"Use at least 6–10 in (15–25 cm) of bedding so you aren’t lying on the ground. Avoid using any fresh green leaves since these could easily transfer moisture to your body.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lean solid branches on each side of the long stick to form a ribcage.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the branches on each side of the shelter so they are at a 45-degree angle to the main branch. Break or cut any branches that extend past the long branch so your shelter is compact. Fill in all the cracks between the branches as best as you can.\\nUse smaller branches to cover any holes or cracks and to prevent debris from falling through.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place dead branches and leaves on top of the ribcage.\", \"描述\": \"Start from the bottom of the structure and layer the debris onto the framework you made. The thicker you make your insulation, the warmer you’ll stay and the more camouflaged you’ll be. Aim to layer the leaves at least 2 ft (0.61 m) thick.\\nCover the opening of your A-frame with more sticks if you want to completely close your shelter when you’re sleeping or away.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Making a Teepee\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prop 3 long branches against each other to form a tripod frame.\", \"描述\": \"Use branches that are the same length so they’re easier to manage. Tie one end of the branches together with plant fiber, rope, shoelaces, or a belt before standing them upright. Set the branches so they are equal distances apart.\\nThe size of the branches depends on how many people you want to fit inside. At the very least, spread the 3 branches far enough apart for you to comfortably lay down.\\nLean the branches in a circle against a tree trunk if you want extra support.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lean more branches of the same length against the tripod frame.\", \"描述\": \"Find more branches that are similar in length to surround the rest of the teepee. When you place one branch, go to the opposite side of the teepee and place another branch so your teepee stays balanced.\\nRemember to leave a gap on one side so you can get in and out of your shelter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill in cracks with smaller branches.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the main structure built, look for any cracks or holes in the frame of your teepee. Use smaller and thinner sticks to fill them in so wind and rain doesn’t get inside of your shelter. Try to cover as many of the cracks as you can.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the outside with leafy branches for insulation.\", \"描述\": \"Use sturdy branches that have leaves on them to add extra insulation to your teepee. Lean them evenly across the teepee so it is insulated as much as possible.\\nDead leaves and debris will blow away in strong winds unless you use more branches to hold them in place.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Make your shelters as small as you comfortably can to retain the most heat.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Many of these structures are temporary and will need to be repaired or rebuilt after severe weather.\\n\", \"Watch for insects and poisonous plants in your bedding before you lie down.\\n\", \"Watch out for any dangerous objects above you and your shelter, such as dead limbs, rocks, or mud.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,450 |
How to Build a Ninja Warrior Course
|
1. Designing Your Course
1-1. Find a good spot to build your course.
Pick the spot where you want to build your course before you draw up your plans, since you might have to account for narrow spaces, low-hanging tree branches, or other environmental factors.
Pick a spot that's free of dangerous obstructions like protruding tree roots or sharp rocks. The best place to build is a big, open backyard where you'll have plenty of room to run, jump, and swing.
Take measurements of the space where you want to build so you can plan the exact dimensions of your course.
1-2. Decide which Ninja Warrior obstacles you want to include in your course.
Popular obstacles include the Salmon Ladder, Warped Wall, and Quad Steps, but with the right materials, you can replicate many of the challenges you see on the show!
Choose obstacles that will work with the space you have. For instance, if you have a very narrow backyard, you might want to build only a salmon ladder. If you can't dig post holes in your yard, you might only build the quad steps.
Don't be afraid to get creative! If you have a sturdy tree branch in your yard, for instance, you could hang a series of ropes from the branch to create your own Tarzan Rope, where you must travel a distance by swinging from rope to rope.
Always make sure your obstacles are totally secure before testing them out. Getting injured is the last thing you want when you're training.
1-3. Decide on the order of your obstacles.
If you're including several Ninja Warrior obstacles, decide how you want to go through them. The order changes sometimes on the show, but the Quad Steps is usually the first obstacle, and the Warped Wall is usually the last, but you can arrange your course however you want.
Try arranging your obstacles in varying intensity. For instance, if one obstacle requires a lot of upper body strength, try following it with one that builds your balance, then one focusing on leg strength.
1-4. Draw your blueprints.
Draw the obstacle course exactly as you picture it on a large piece of paper, using the measurements you took from your yard. By having a blueprint, you can plan out exactly how your obstacles will fit in the space you have available. Having a plan in advance can also help you design your obstacles to be as safe as possible.
When you're drawing a blueprint, you want to draw to scale. For instance, you might decide that 1 inch (2.5 cm) on your blueprint is equal to 1 foot (0.30 m) in real life. In that case, you would draw a 12 feet (3.7 m) post exactly 12 inches (30 cm) tall on your blueprint.
Your blueprints should show a top view and a side view to help you picture it as you build.
If you’re using found materials to build your course, try to gather them up before you draw your blueprint, since they could alter the dimensions of your plans.
2. Building a Salmon Ladder
2-1. Dig 2 post holes 3.5 feet (1.1 m) apart and 2.5 feet (0.76 m) deep.
You can adjust the width of the Salmon Ladder by moving the posts closer together or further apart, but on the show, the obstacle is 3.5 feet (1.1 m) wide.
Use a post hole digger to easily remove dirt for your posts. If you don't have one of these, use a small hand shovel.
Choose posts that will be are at least 14.5 metres (48 ft) long. Your posts need to be buried at least 2.5 feet (0.76 m) deep, and the Salmon Ladder should be about 12 feet (3.7 m) high to give you room to climb.
2-2. Anchor your posts into the ground.
Pour cement around the base of your posts after you get them buried in the ground. Make sure to give the cement plenty of time to dry before you move to the next step!
If you aren't able to cement your posts in place, pack dirt around them as tightly as you can, then use short pieces of wood to brace the posts. The wood should be about 2 feet (0.61 m) long. Place the bracing wood at a 45 degree angle to the post. Ensure one end of the wood is resting securely on the ground, then nail the other end to the post.
2-3. Nail rungs into your post spaced 1 foot (0.30 m) apart.
Your rungs should be angled at about 35 degrees and should stick out about 4 inches (10 cm). The regulation spacing between rungs for a Ninja Warrior course is 1 foot (0.30 m), but you can space them closer together if you don’t want as much of a challenge.
Place your first rungs about 4 feet (1.2 m) high.
Your rungs can be blocks of wood, large nails, or any other material that that will support your weight when it’s nailed to your posts.
2-4. Place a metal bar on the rungs to use your Salmon Ladder.
Use your upper body strength to move the bar upwards from one set of rings up to the next, climbing the ladder with a series of pull-up maneuvers and jumps.
If climbing the Salmon Ladder is too difficult for you, use the salmon ladder to practice pull-ups.
3. Building Your Quad Steps
3-1. Cut a sheet of plywood into 4 2 by 2 ft (0.61 by 0.61 m) squares.
These will be the surface of your Quad Steps. You can make these any size you want, but this is an ideal size for training for Ninja Warrior.
A standard size sheet of plywood is 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m). If you cut your squares into 2 by 2 ft (0.61 by 0.61 m) pieces, you should only need 1 sheet of plywood.
3-2. Cut 16 2 ft (0.61 m) sections from lengths of lumber and divide them.
The standard size board for framing is 2 by 4 inches (5.1 by 10.2 cm) but you can use whatever lumber you have on hand, as long as it is weather-treated and is free of any cracks or soft spots.
Place 8 sections of wood in one pile to be used for framing, and the remaining 8 pieces of wood in another pile to be your kickstand boards, which are used to hold the Quad Steps upright as you jump across them.
3-3. Cut off 1 corner of each kickstand board at a 45 degree angle.
You want the kickstand to rest flush against the platform to hold the platform at an angle. Each cut should start about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the corner of the board. Carefully use a saw to make these cuts.
Always use caution when using a saw. Wear safety goggles and keep your hands free from the blades.
3-4. Lay 2 pieces of framing wood and the plywood on top of each other.
The framing pieces should be turned up on their sides and should be touching the outside edge of the plywood.
3-5. Attach the plywood to the framing boards with wood screws.
Use 4 2 in (5.1 cm) wood screws for each framing board to ensure they are secure, for a total of 8 on each platform.
3-6. Angle the platform and 2 kickstand boards so they are flush together.
The kickstands should rest against the framing wood at the corner of the platform. When you have the kickstands aligned with the platform, the whole assembly should stand upright, with the platform propped about 45 degrees off of the ground.
3-7. Attach each kickstand board to the framing board with a long wood screw.
Make sure that the kickstands are mounted securely, since they will support most of your weight as you jump. Now, enjoy your Quad Steps!
If you want to adjust the angle of your Quad Steps later on, use a bolt when you’re attaching the kickstands instead of a screw.
4. Building the Warped Wall
4-1. Soak 2 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m) sheets of plywood in water to soften them.
If you try to bend dry plywood into a curve for the Warped Wall, it will crack. Place the plywood in a pool or use spare pieces of wood to prop up the edges of a tarp. Hold the plywood in the water by placing a cinder block in the middle, and leave it there while you build the rest of the frame.
4-2. Lay sheets of plywood in 2 L-shapes.
These will eventually be the sides of your Warped Wall. The amount of plywood you will need will depend on the size you want your Warped Wall to be. On the show, the Warped Wall is 14 to 16 feet (4.3 to 4.9 m) high, but you can adjust the height to your preferences.
For most walls, 3 pieces of plywood will be enough.
Laying the plywood in an L-shape will allow you to create a curve along the side of your wall.
4-3. Tie one end of a piece of string to a pencil and anchor the other end.
By tying the free end of the string to a fixed location, it will act as a compass, creating a circle as you travel around the center point. This will help you create the curve for your Warped Wall. The string should be long enough so that the pencil can sweep across the plywood in a gentle curve.
If you don't have anything to tie the string to, have someone stand in one place and hold the string.
4-4. Draw a wide curve on both sets of plywood.
After you draw the curve on the first set of plywood, arrange the second set so the string is anchored exactly the same distance away, and draw the same curve again.
4-5. Cut the plywood along the curve you drew.
Use a saw to carefully cut both sets of plywood. Once this is done, you have the sides for your Warped Wall.
4-6. Stabilize the plywood sides with lumber.
Use 4 by 4 in (10 by 10 cm) or another heavy type of lumber to create a frame on your plywood. This will reinforce the plywood and will give the final structure more stability. Make sure you leave enough space between the frame and the edge of the sides for your plywood curve.
4-7. Nail in crossbraces along the curve.
Insert wooden boards cut the width of your wall all along the curve to attach the 2 sides of the wall together. Space these crossbraces out evenly along the length of the curve. About 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) should be sufficient. You can also add extra plywood to what will eventually be the top and bottom of your wall at this time.
The length of the crossbraces should be cut to fit the width of your Warped Wall.
The amount of crossbraces you use will depend on how far apart you space them and how long your Warped Wall will be. For instance, if you nail the boards 8 inches (20 cm) apart and the length of your curve is 14 feet (4.3 m), you will need 21 braces.
4-8. Lay the wet plywood on top of the crossbraces and nail it down.
The crossbraces will help shape the plywood into a curve, and it should bend easily since it's been soaking in water.
4-9. Finish with a piece of PVC at the top of the curve to act as the ledge.
You don’t want to grab onto the raw wood, since you might get splinters. Cut a length of PVC pipe to match the width of the wall and attach it to the top corner of the wall so you have something to hang on when you reach the top!
Tips
Your obstacles should be varied enough to give you a well-rounded workout. Otherwise, you'll lack strength in certain areas.[22]
X
Expert Source
Justin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant
Expert Interview. 15 September 2020.
Always put padding beneath your obstacle course so you don't hurt yourself.[23]
X
Expert Source
Justin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant
Expert Interview. 15 September 2020.
Use weather treated lumber if your course is outdoors. If you use untreated lumber, your course will start to rot as it’s exposed to rain and humidity.[24]
X
Research source
Warnings
Always supervise children when they're playing on the Ninja Warrior obstacle course.
Examine your course regularly to be sure that it is in good condition. Even if you use treated lumber, check your course each time you use it for signs of damage or decay. Pay special attention to any ropes or wooden bars, as they may wear out faster than other objects on the course.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:51",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing Your Course\\n1-1. Find a good spot to build your course.\\nPick the spot where you want to build your course before you draw up your plans, since you might have to account for narrow spaces, low-hanging tree branches, or other environmental factors.\\nPick a spot that's free of dangerous obstructions like protruding tree roots or sharp rocks. The best place to build is a big, open backyard where you'll have plenty of room to run, jump, and swing.\\nTake measurements of the space where you want to build so you can plan the exact dimensions of your course.\\n1-2. Decide which Ninja Warrior obstacles you want to include in your course.\\nPopular obstacles include the Salmon Ladder, Warped Wall, and Quad Steps, but with the right materials, you can replicate many of the challenges you see on the show!\\nChoose obstacles that will work with the space you have. For instance, if you have a very narrow backyard, you might want to build only a salmon ladder. If you can't dig post holes in your yard, you might only build the quad steps.\\nDon't be afraid to get creative! If you have a sturdy tree branch in your yard, for instance, you could hang a series of ropes from the branch to create your own Tarzan Rope, where you must travel a distance by swinging from rope to rope.\\nAlways make sure your obstacles are totally secure before testing them out. Getting injured is the last thing you want when you're training.\\n1-3. Decide on the order of your obstacles.\\nIf you're including several Ninja Warrior obstacles, decide how you want to go through them. The order changes sometimes on the show, but the Quad Steps is usually the first obstacle, and the Warped Wall is usually the last, but you can arrange your course however you want.\\nTry arranging your obstacles in varying intensity. For instance, if one obstacle requires a lot of upper body strength, try following it with one that builds your balance, then one focusing on leg strength.\\n1-4. Draw your blueprints.\\nDraw the obstacle course exactly as you picture it on a large piece of paper, using the measurements you took from your yard. By having a blueprint, you can plan out exactly how your obstacles will fit in the space you have available. Having a plan in advance can also help you design your obstacles to be as safe as possible.\\nWhen you're drawing a blueprint, you want to draw to scale. For instance, you might decide that 1 inch (2.5 cm) on your blueprint is equal to 1 foot (0.30 m) in real life. In that case, you would draw a 12 feet (3.7 m) post exactly 12 inches (30 cm) tall on your blueprint.\\nYour blueprints should show a top view and a side view to help you picture it as you build.\\nIf you’re using found materials to build your course, try to gather them up before you draw your blueprint, since they could alter the dimensions of your plans.\\n2. Building a Salmon Ladder\\n2-1. Dig 2 post holes 3.5 feet (1.1 m) apart and 2.5 feet (0.76 m) deep.\\nYou can adjust the width of the Salmon Ladder by moving the posts closer together or further apart, but on the show, the obstacle is 3.5 feet (1.1 m) wide.\\nUse a post hole digger to easily remove dirt for your posts. If you don't have one of these, use a small hand shovel.\\nChoose posts that will be are at least 14.5 metres (48 ft) long. Your posts need to be buried at least 2.5 feet (0.76 m) deep, and the Salmon Ladder should be about 12 feet (3.7 m) high to give you room to climb.\\n2-2. Anchor your posts into the ground.\\nPour cement around the base of your posts after you get them buried in the ground. Make sure to give the cement plenty of time to dry before you move to the next step!\\nIf you aren't able to cement your posts in place, pack dirt around them as tightly as you can, then use short pieces of wood to brace the posts. The wood should be about 2 feet (0.61 m) long. Place the bracing wood at a 45 degree angle to the post. Ensure one end of the wood is resting securely on the ground, then nail the other end to the post.\\n2-3. Nail rungs into your post spaced 1 foot (0.30 m) apart.\\nYour rungs should be angled at about 35 degrees and should stick out about 4 inches (10 cm). The regulation spacing between rungs for a Ninja Warrior course is 1 foot (0.30 m), but you can space them closer together if you don’t want as much of a challenge.\\nPlace your first rungs about 4 feet (1.2 m) high.\\nYour rungs can be blocks of wood, large nails, or any other material that that will support your weight when it’s nailed to your posts.\\n2-4. Place a metal bar on the rungs to use your Salmon Ladder.\\nUse your upper body strength to move the bar upwards from one set of rings up to the next, climbing the ladder with a series of pull-up maneuvers and jumps.\\nIf climbing the Salmon Ladder is too difficult for you, use the salmon ladder to practice pull-ups.\\n3. Building Your Quad Steps\\n3-1. Cut a sheet of plywood into 4 2 by 2 ft (0.61 by 0.61 m) squares.\\nThese will be the surface of your Quad Steps. You can make these any size you want, but this is an ideal size for training for Ninja Warrior.\\nA standard size sheet of plywood is 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m). If you cut your squares into 2 by 2 ft (0.61 by 0.61 m) pieces, you should only need 1 sheet of plywood.\\n3-2. Cut 16 2 ft (0.61 m) sections from lengths of lumber and divide them.\\nThe standard size board for framing is 2 by 4 inches (5.1 by 10.2 cm) but you can use whatever lumber you have on hand, as long as it is weather-treated and is free of any cracks or soft spots.\\nPlace 8 sections of wood in one pile to be used for framing, and the remaining 8 pieces of wood in another pile to be your kickstand boards, which are used to hold the Quad Steps upright as you jump across them.\\n3-3. Cut off 1 corner of each kickstand board at a 45 degree angle.\\nYou want the kickstand to rest flush against the platform to hold the platform at an angle. Each cut should start about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the corner of the board. Carefully use a saw to make these cuts.\\nAlways use caution when using a saw. Wear safety goggles and keep your hands free from the blades.\\n3-4. Lay 2 pieces of framing wood and the plywood on top of each other.\\nThe framing pieces should be turned up on their sides and should be touching the outside edge of the plywood.\\n3-5. Attach the plywood to the framing boards with wood screws.\\nUse 4 2 in (5.1 cm) wood screws for each framing board to ensure they are secure, for a total of 8 on each platform.\\n3-6. Angle the platform and 2 kickstand boards so they are flush together.\\nThe kickstands should rest against the framing wood at the corner of the platform. When you have the kickstands aligned with the platform, the whole assembly should stand upright, with the platform propped about 45 degrees off of the ground.\\n3-7. Attach each kickstand board to the framing board with a long wood screw.\\nMake sure that the kickstands are mounted securely, since they will support most of your weight as you jump. Now, enjoy your Quad Steps!\\nIf you want to adjust the angle of your Quad Steps later on, use a bolt when you’re attaching the kickstands instead of a screw.\\n4. Building the Warped Wall\\n4-1. Soak 2 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m) sheets of plywood in water to soften them.\\nIf you try to bend dry plywood into a curve for the Warped Wall, it will crack. Place the plywood in a pool or use spare pieces of wood to prop up the edges of a tarp. Hold the plywood in the water by placing a cinder block in the middle, and leave it there while you build the rest of the frame.\\n4-2. Lay sheets of plywood in 2 L-shapes.\\nThese will eventually be the sides of your Warped Wall. The amount of plywood you will need will depend on the size you want your Warped Wall to be. On the show, the Warped Wall is 14 to 16 feet (4.3 to 4.9 m) high, but you can adjust the height to your preferences.\\nFor most walls, 3 pieces of plywood will be enough.\\nLaying the plywood in an L-shape will allow you to create a curve along the side of your wall.\\n4-3. Tie one end of a piece of string to a pencil and anchor the other end.\\nBy tying the free end of the string to a fixed location, it will act as a compass, creating a circle as you travel around the center point. This will help you create the curve for your Warped Wall. The string should be long enough so that the pencil can sweep across the plywood in a gentle curve.\\nIf you don't have anything to tie the string to, have someone stand in one place and hold the string.\\n4-4. Draw a wide curve on both sets of plywood.\\nAfter you draw the curve on the first set of plywood, arrange the second set so the string is anchored exactly the same distance away, and draw the same curve again.\\n4-5. Cut the plywood along the curve you drew.\\nUse a saw to carefully cut both sets of plywood. Once this is done, you have the sides for your Warped Wall.\\n4-6. Stabilize the plywood sides with lumber.\\nUse 4 by 4 in (10 by 10 cm) or another heavy type of lumber to create a frame on your plywood. This will reinforce the plywood and will give the final structure more stability. Make sure you leave enough space between the frame and the edge of the sides for your plywood curve.\\n4-7. Nail in crossbraces along the curve.\\nInsert wooden boards cut the width of your wall all along the curve to attach the 2 sides of the wall together. Space these crossbraces out evenly along the length of the curve. About 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) should be sufficient. You can also add extra plywood to what will eventually be the top and bottom of your wall at this time.\\nThe length of the crossbraces should be cut to fit the width of your Warped Wall.\\nThe amount of crossbraces you use will depend on how far apart you space them and how long your Warped Wall will be. For instance, if you nail the boards 8 inches (20 cm) apart and the length of your curve is 14 feet (4.3 m), you will need 21 braces.\\n4-8. Lay the wet plywood on top of the crossbraces and nail it down.\\nThe crossbraces will help shape the plywood into a curve, and it should bend easily since it's been soaking in water.\\n4-9. Finish with a piece of PVC at the top of the curve to act as the ledge.\\nYou don’t want to grab onto the raw wood, since you might get splinters. Cut a length of PVC pipe to match the width of the wall and attach it to the top corner of the wall so you have something to hang on when you reach the top!\\nTips\\nYour obstacles should be varied enough to give you a well-rounded workout. Otherwise, you'll lack strength in certain areas.[22]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nJustin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant\\nExpert Interview. 15 September 2020.\\nAlways put padding beneath your obstacle course so you don't hurt yourself.[23]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nJustin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant\\nExpert Interview. 15 September 2020.\\nUse weather treated lumber if your course is outdoors. If you use untreated lumber, your course will start to rot as it’s exposed to rain and humidity.[24]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWarnings\\nAlways supervise children when they're playing on the Ninja Warrior obstacle course.\\nExamine your course regularly to be sure that it is in good condition. Even if you use treated lumber, check your course each time you use it for signs of damage or decay. Pay special attention to any ropes or wooden bars, as they may wear out faster than other objects on the course.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you want to compete against ninja warriors, you have to train like them. The best way to do this is to build your own Ninja Warrior course at home! With a few building supplies and a little work, you can be training for the real thing in no time.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing Your Course\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a good spot to build your course.\", \"描述\": \"Pick the spot where you want to build your course before you draw up your plans, since you might have to account for narrow spaces, low-hanging tree branches, or other environmental factors.\\nPick a spot that's free of dangerous obstructions like protruding tree roots or sharp rocks. The best place to build is a big, open backyard where you'll have plenty of room to run, jump, and swing.\\nTake measurements of the space where you want to build so you can plan the exact dimensions of your course.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide which Ninja Warrior obstacles you want to include in your course.\", \"描述\": \"Popular obstacles include the Salmon Ladder, Warped Wall, and Quad Steps, but with the right materials, you can replicate many of the challenges you see on the show!\\nChoose obstacles that will work with the space you have. For instance, if you have a very narrow backyard, you might want to build only a salmon ladder. If you can't dig post holes in your yard, you might only build the quad steps.\\nDon't be afraid to get creative! If you have a sturdy tree branch in your yard, for instance, you could hang a series of ropes from the branch to create your own Tarzan Rope, where you must travel a distance by swinging from rope to rope.\\nAlways make sure your obstacles are totally secure before testing them out. Getting injured is the last thing you want when you're training.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide on the order of your obstacles.\", \"描述\": \"If you're including several Ninja Warrior obstacles, decide how you want to go through them. The order changes sometimes on the show, but the Quad Steps is usually the first obstacle, and the Warped Wall is usually the last, but you can arrange your course however you want.\\nTry arranging your obstacles in varying intensity. For instance, if one obstacle requires a lot of upper body strength, try following it with one that builds your balance, then one focusing on leg strength.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Draw your blueprints.\", \"描述\": \"Draw the obstacle course exactly as you picture it on a large piece of paper, using the measurements you took from your yard. By having a blueprint, you can plan out exactly how your obstacles will fit in the space you have available. Having a plan in advance can also help you design your obstacles to be as safe as possible.\\nWhen you're drawing a blueprint, you want to draw to scale. For instance, you might decide that 1 inch (2.5 cm) on your blueprint is equal to 1 foot (0.30 m) in real life. In that case, you would draw a 12 feet (3.7 m) post exactly 12 inches (30 cm) tall on your blueprint.\\nYour blueprints should show a top view and a side view to help you picture it as you build.\\nIf you’re using found materials to build your course, try to gather them up before you draw your blueprint, since they could alter the dimensions of your plans.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Salmon Ladder\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig 2 post holes 3.5 feet (1.1 m) apart and 2.5 feet (0.76 m) deep.\", \"描述\": \"You can adjust the width of the Salmon Ladder by moving the posts closer together or further apart, but on the show, the obstacle is 3.5 feet (1.1 m) wide.\\nUse a post hole digger to easily remove dirt for your posts. If you don't have one of these, use a small hand shovel.\\nChoose posts that will be are at least 14.5 metres (48 ft) long. Your posts need to be buried at least 2.5 feet (0.76 m) deep, and the Salmon Ladder should be about 12 feet (3.7 m) high to give you room to climb.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Anchor your posts into the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Pour cement around the base of your posts after you get them buried in the ground. Make sure to give the cement plenty of time to dry before you move to the next step!\\nIf you aren't able to cement your posts in place, pack dirt around them as tightly as you can, then use short pieces of wood to brace the posts. The wood should be about 2 feet (0.61 m) long. Place the bracing wood at a 45 degree angle to the post. Ensure one end of the wood is resting securely on the ground, then nail the other end to the post.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Nail rungs into your post spaced 1 foot (0.30 m) apart.\", \"描述\": \"Your rungs should be angled at about 35 degrees and should stick out about 4 inches (10 cm). The regulation spacing between rungs for a Ninja Warrior course is 1 foot (0.30 m), but you can space them closer together if you don’t want as much of a challenge.\\nPlace your first rungs about 4 feet (1.2 m) high.\\nYour rungs can be blocks of wood, large nails, or any other material that that will support your weight when it’s nailed to your posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place a metal bar on the rungs to use your Salmon Ladder.\", \"描述\": \"Use your upper body strength to move the bar upwards from one set of rings up to the next, climbing the ladder with a series of pull-up maneuvers and jumps.\\nIf climbing the Salmon Ladder is too difficult for you, use the salmon ladder to practice pull-ups.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building Your Quad Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut a sheet of plywood into 4 2 by 2 ft (0.61 by 0.61 m) squares.\", \"描述\": \"These will be the surface of your Quad Steps. You can make these any size you want, but this is an ideal size for training for Ninja Warrior.\\nA standard size sheet of plywood is 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m). If you cut your squares into 2 by 2 ft (0.61 by 0.61 m) pieces, you should only need 1 sheet of plywood.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut 16 2 ft (0.61 m) sections from lengths of lumber and divide them.\", \"描述\": \"The standard size board for framing is 2 by 4 inches (5.1 by 10.2 cm) but you can use whatever lumber you have on hand, as long as it is weather-treated and is free of any cracks or soft spots.\\nPlace 8 sections of wood in one pile to be used for framing, and the remaining 8 pieces of wood in another pile to be your kickstand boards, which are used to hold the Quad Steps upright as you jump across them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut off 1 corner of each kickstand board at a 45 degree angle.\", \"描述\": \"You want the kickstand to rest flush against the platform to hold the platform at an angle. Each cut should start about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the corner of the board. Carefully use a saw to make these cuts.\\nAlways use caution when using a saw. Wear safety goggles and keep your hands free from the blades.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay 2 pieces of framing wood and the plywood on top of each other.\", \"描述\": \"The framing pieces should be turned up on their sides and should be touching the outside edge of the plywood.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the plywood to the framing boards with wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"Use 4 2 in (5.1 cm) wood screws for each framing board to ensure they are secure, for a total of 8 on each platform.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Angle the platform and 2 kickstand boards so they are flush together.\", \"描述\": \"The kickstands should rest against the framing wood at the corner of the platform. When you have the kickstands aligned with the platform, the whole assembly should stand upright, with the platform propped about 45 degrees off of the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach each kickstand board to the framing board with a long wood screw.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the kickstands are mounted securely, since they will support most of your weight as you jump. Now, enjoy your Quad Steps!\\nIf you want to adjust the angle of your Quad Steps later on, use a bolt when you’re attaching the kickstands instead of a screw.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Building the Warped Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Soak 2 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m) sheets of plywood in water to soften them.\", \"描述\": \"If you try to bend dry plywood into a curve for the Warped Wall, it will crack. Place the plywood in a pool or use spare pieces of wood to prop up the edges of a tarp. Hold the plywood in the water by placing a cinder block in the middle, and leave it there while you build the rest of the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay sheets of plywood in 2 L-shapes.\", \"描述\": \"These will eventually be the sides of your Warped Wall. The amount of plywood you will need will depend on the size you want your Warped Wall to be. On the show, the Warped Wall is 14 to 16 feet (4.3 to 4.9 m) high, but you can adjust the height to your preferences.\\nFor most walls, 3 pieces of plywood will be enough.\\nLaying the plywood in an L-shape will allow you to create a curve along the side of your wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tie one end of a piece of string to a pencil and anchor the other end.\", \"描述\": \"By tying the free end of the string to a fixed location, it will act as a compass, creating a circle as you travel around the center point. This will help you create the curve for your Warped Wall. The string should be long enough so that the pencil can sweep across the plywood in a gentle curve.\\nIf you don't have anything to tie the string to, have someone stand in one place and hold the string.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Draw a wide curve on both sets of plywood.\", \"描述\": \"After you draw the curve on the first set of plywood, arrange the second set so the string is anchored exactly the same distance away, and draw the same curve again.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the plywood along the curve you drew.\", \"描述\": \"Use a saw to carefully cut both sets of plywood. Once this is done, you have the sides for your Warped Wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Stabilize the plywood sides with lumber.\", \"描述\": \"Use 4 by 4 in (10 by 10 cm) or another heavy type of lumber to create a frame on your plywood. This will reinforce the plywood and will give the final structure more stability. Make sure you leave enough space between the frame and the edge of the sides for your plywood curve.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Nail in crossbraces along the curve.\", \"描述\": \"Insert wooden boards cut the width of your wall all along the curve to attach the 2 sides of the wall together. Space these crossbraces out evenly along the length of the curve. About 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) should be sufficient. You can also add extra plywood to what will eventually be the top and bottom of your wall at this time.\\nThe length of the crossbraces should be cut to fit the width of your Warped Wall.\\nThe amount of crossbraces you use will depend on how far apart you space them and how long your Warped Wall will be. For instance, if you nail the boards 8 inches (20 cm) apart and the length of your curve is 14 feet (4.3 m), you will need 21 braces.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Lay the wet plywood on top of the crossbraces and nail it down.\", \"描述\": \"The crossbraces will help shape the plywood into a curve, and it should bend easily since it's been soaking in water.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Finish with a piece of PVC at the top of the curve to act as the ledge.\", \"描述\": \"You don’t want to grab onto the raw wood, since you might get splinters. Cut a length of PVC pipe to match the width of the wall and attach it to the top corner of the wall so you have something to hang on when you reach the top!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Your obstacles should be varied enough to give you a well-rounded workout. Otherwise, you'll lack strength in certain areas.[22]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nJustin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant\\nExpert Interview. 15 September 2020.\\n\", \"Always put padding beneath your obstacle course so you don't hurt yourself.[23]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nJustin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant\\nExpert Interview. 15 September 2020.\\n\", \"Use weather treated lumber if your course is outdoors. If you use untreated lumber, your course will start to rot as it’s exposed to rain and humidity.[24]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always supervise children when they're playing on the Ninja Warrior obstacle course.\\n\", \"Examine your course regularly to be sure that it is in good condition. Even if you use treated lumber, check your course each time you use it for signs of damage or decay. Pay special attention to any ropes or wooden bars, as they may wear out faster than other objects on the course.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,451 |
How to Build a PVC Bike Rack
|
1. Cutting and Sanding the PVC
1-1. Measure and mark your PVC.
If you bought PVC in long pieces, you’ll have to cut these down to smaller segments. Use a tape measure and a felt tipped marker to draw guide lines for cutting the following lengths of 1½ inch (3.8 cm) thick PVC:
Eight 24 in (61 cm) long pipes
Four 2 in (5 cm) long pipes
Four 3 in (7.6 cm) long pipes
Two 12 in (30.5 cm) long pipes
Two 36 in (91.4 cm) long pipes
1-2. Cut your bike rack PVC segments with a hacksaw.
At the drawn-on guide lines, cut the PVC with a hacksaw. To prevent the PVC from moving while you cut it, you may want to hold it in place with a vice or clamp it to a sturdy surface.
Use a smooth, moderately paced back-and-forth motion when sawing the PVC. Keep an eye on your guide line while cutting so you cut the exact length you need.
1-3. Sand
You’ll want to use sandpaper that falls between a grit rating of 60 and 100. With moderate pressure, rub the sandpaper over the cut edges of the PVC to remove plastic burrs and sharp edges.
It shouldn’t take too much effort to sand away burrs and sharp edges. Avoid over sanding, as this can shorten the overall length of your PVC.
If you’re using especially durable PVC, it may be easier to use a metal file instead of sandpaper. Pass the file back and forth over the PVC until sharpness and burrs are removed.
1-4. Clean up dirt and debris.
Vacuum the PVC after sanding to remove plastic shavings. Dirt, dust, or other debris can be wiped away with a clean, dampened, lint-free cloth. Follow this with a quick pass from a clean, lint-free dry cloth and you’re ready to move on.
Small bits of PVC knocked loose from sanding can get stuck in PVC cement (glue), resulting in a bike rack frame that fits together poorly.
PVC burrs are easily tracked through the home and can cause splinters. Take care to vacuum up all PVC shavings in your work area.
2. Assembling the Frame
2-1. Put together the outer right and left sides.
The outer right and left sides of your bike rack will be composed of two 36 in (91.4 cm) long segments of PVC and four 90° elbow joint pieces. Attach the elbow pieces to both ends of the PVC segments.
The elbow pieces should be oriented to face the same direction.
2-2. Add a T-connector to the elbow joints.
Four 3 in (7.6 cm) lengths of PVC will connect each elbow connector to a T-connector. Insert the 3 in lengths into the elbow joints, then add on the T-connector.
The T-connectors should be positioned so the stem of the T is 45° from the ground (halfway between flat and straight up-and-down) and facing the inside of the rack.
2-3. Follow the first T-connector with a second.
In line with your first 3 in (7.6) segment of PVC, in the opposite side of each T-connector insert a 2 in (5 cm) piece of PVC. At the free end of each 2 in piece, add a second T-connector.
The second set of T-connectors should be oriented in the same fashion as the first, so that the stem of the T points inward at a 45° angle.
2-4. Join the left and right sides together.
Both sides of the PVC frame should be positioned so that each elbow joint is facing an opposing elbow joint. Leave a little more than a foot (30.5 cm) of space between each side. Connect the four elbow joints with two 12 in (30.5 cm) PVC pieces.
3. Finishing the Rack
3-1. Put together the bike mounts.
Connect two pieces of 24 in (61 cm) long PVC with a 90° elbow joint to form a V shape. Make a total of four of these Vs. These will form the rails/bars of the rack that the front tires of bikes can be parked between.
3-2. Insert the bike mounts into the T-connectors.
The arms of each V should fit into the inward slanting stems of the T-connectors. In some cases, while assembling the frame you may have jostled the angle of the T-connectors, but this can be easily fixed by adjusting the connector with your hand.
3-3. Glue the rack together with PVC cement for improved sturdiness.
Now that you know the frame fits together properly, remove the PVC pieces from joints one at a time. Brush cement onto the end of each PVC segment and the inside of each connector, then refasten the parts together.
PVC cement is pretty potent; wear rubber gloves and goggles when applying it to PVC. Avoid getting cement on your skin or in your eyes, and wash your hands after using it.
If you want an easy to disassemble bike rack, which might be preferred for trail riding, leave your rack unglued.
3-4. Paint
If you just want a simple place to store your bike, plain PVC should do just fine. However, it takes little time and effort to add a coat of spray paint to your bike rack, and this touch can really improve its overall appearance.
Black works for bike rack paint jobs. Generally, this color holds up well to rough usage without needing many touchups.
Spray paint should only be used in a well-ventilated area. Use a drop cloth below your bike rack when painting it to prevent paint from spreading to the ground beneath the rack.
Tips
If you accidentally mis-mark a guide line with your marker, use a cloth and some rubbing alcohol to remove the mark.
Depending on your space limitations or bike storage needs, you can decrease or increase the dimensions of this design for a smaller or larger rack.
Some PVC suppliers offer cutting services. Having a supplier cut your PVC to length for you could save you time.
Warnings
Always take care when using tools. Improper usage could result in personal harm or property damage.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:51",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Cutting and Sanding the PVC\\n1-1. Measure and mark your PVC.\\nIf you bought PVC in long pieces, you’ll have to cut these down to smaller segments. Use a tape measure and a felt tipped marker to draw guide lines for cutting the following lengths of 1½ inch (3.8 cm) thick PVC:\\nEight 24 in (61 cm) long pipes\\nFour 2 in (5 cm) long pipes\\nFour 3 in (7.6 cm) long pipes\\nTwo 12 in (30.5 cm) long pipes\\nTwo 36 in (91.4 cm) long pipes\\n1-2. Cut your bike rack PVC segments with a hacksaw.\\nAt the drawn-on guide lines, cut the PVC with a hacksaw. To prevent the PVC from moving while you cut it, you may want to hold it in place with a vice or clamp it to a sturdy surface.\\nUse a smooth, moderately paced back-and-forth motion when sawing the PVC. Keep an eye on your guide line while cutting so you cut the exact length you need.\\n1-3. Sand\\nYou’ll want to use sandpaper that falls between a grit rating of 60 and 100. With moderate pressure, rub the sandpaper over the cut edges of the PVC to remove plastic burrs and sharp edges.\\nIt shouldn’t take too much effort to sand away burrs and sharp edges. Avoid over sanding, as this can shorten the overall length of your PVC.\\nIf you’re using especially durable PVC, it may be easier to use a metal file instead of sandpaper. Pass the file back and forth over the PVC until sharpness and burrs are removed.\\n1-4. Clean up dirt and debris.\\nVacuum the PVC after sanding to remove plastic shavings. Dirt, dust, or other debris can be wiped away with a clean, dampened, lint-free cloth. Follow this with a quick pass from a clean, lint-free dry cloth and you’re ready to move on.\\nSmall bits of PVC knocked loose from sanding can get stuck in PVC cement (glue), resulting in a bike rack frame that fits together poorly.\\nPVC burrs are easily tracked through the home and can cause splinters. Take care to vacuum up all PVC shavings in your work area.\\n2. Assembling the Frame\\n2-1. Put together the outer right and left sides.\\nThe outer right and left sides of your bike rack will be composed of two 36 in (91.4 cm) long segments of PVC and four 90° elbow joint pieces. Attach the elbow pieces to both ends of the PVC segments.\\nThe elbow pieces should be oriented to face the same direction.\\n2-2. Add a T-connector to the elbow joints.\\nFour 3 in (7.6 cm) lengths of PVC will connect each elbow connector to a T-connector. Insert the 3 in lengths into the elbow joints, then add on the T-connector.\\nThe T-connectors should be positioned so the stem of the T is 45° from the ground (halfway between flat and straight up-and-down) and facing the inside of the rack.\\n2-3. Follow the first T-connector with a second.\\nIn line with your first 3 in (7.6) segment of PVC, in the opposite side of each T-connector insert a 2 in (5 cm) piece of PVC. At the free end of each 2 in piece, add a second T-connector.\\nThe second set of T-connectors should be oriented in the same fashion as the first, so that the stem of the T points inward at a 45° angle.\\n2-4. Join the left and right sides together.\\nBoth sides of the PVC frame should be positioned so that each elbow joint is facing an opposing elbow joint. Leave a little more than a foot (30.5 cm) of space between each side. Connect the four elbow joints with two 12 in (30.5 cm) PVC pieces.\\n3. Finishing the Rack\\n3-1. Put together the bike mounts.\\nConnect two pieces of 24 in (61 cm) long PVC with a 90° elbow joint to form a V shape. Make a total of four of these Vs. These will form the rails/bars of the rack that the front tires of bikes can be parked between.\\n3-2. Insert the bike mounts into the T-connectors.\\nThe arms of each V should fit into the inward slanting stems of the T-connectors. In some cases, while assembling the frame you may have jostled the angle of the T-connectors, but this can be easily fixed by adjusting the connector with your hand.\\n3-3. Glue the rack together with PVC cement for improved sturdiness.\\nNow that you know the frame fits together properly, remove the PVC pieces from joints one at a time. Brush cement onto the end of each PVC segment and the inside of each connector, then refasten the parts together.\\nPVC cement is pretty potent; wear rubber gloves and goggles when applying it to PVC. Avoid getting cement on your skin or in your eyes, and wash your hands after using it.\\nIf you want an easy to disassemble bike rack, which might be preferred for trail riding, leave your rack unglued.\\n3-4. Paint\\nIf you just want a simple place to store your bike, plain PVC should do just fine. However, it takes little time and effort to add a coat of spray paint to your bike rack, and this touch can really improve its overall appearance.\\nBlack works for bike rack paint jobs. Generally, this color holds up well to rough usage without needing many touchups.\\nSpray paint should only be used in a well-ventilated area. Use a drop cloth below your bike rack when painting it to prevent paint from spreading to the ground beneath the rack.\\nTips\\nIf you accidentally mis-mark a guide line with your marker, use a cloth and some rubbing alcohol to remove the mark.\\nDepending on your space limitations or bike storage needs, you can decrease or increase the dimensions of this design for a smaller or larger rack.\\nSome PVC suppliers offer cutting services. Having a supplier cut your PVC to length for you could save you time.\\nWarnings\\nAlways take care when using tools. Improper usage could result in personal harm or property damage.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A properly built PVC bike rack will give you a lightweight, stable place to park your bike when you’re not using it. Even better, this is an inexpensive alternative to store bought bike racks that are of similar quality. All you need is about 27 ft (8.23 m) of PVC pipe, some tools, and some elbow grease, and you’ll soon have a homemade bike rack of your own.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cutting and Sanding the PVC\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and mark your PVC.\", \"描述\": \"If you bought PVC in long pieces, you’ll have to cut these down to smaller segments. Use a tape measure and a felt tipped marker to draw guide lines for cutting the following lengths of 1½ inch (3.8 cm) thick PVC:\\nEight 24 in (61 cm) long pipes\\nFour 2 in (5 cm) long pipes\\nFour 3 in (7.6 cm) long pipes\\nTwo 12 in (30.5 cm) long pipes\\nTwo 36 in (91.4 cm) long pipes\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your bike rack PVC segments with a hacksaw.\", \"描述\": \"At the drawn-on guide lines, cut the PVC with a hacksaw. To prevent the PVC from moving while you cut it, you may want to hold it in place with a vice or clamp it to a sturdy surface.\\nUse a smooth, moderately paced back-and-forth motion when sawing the PVC. Keep an eye on your guide line while cutting so you cut the exact length you need.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sand\", \"描述\": \"You’ll want to use sandpaper that falls between a grit rating of 60 and 100. With moderate pressure, rub the sandpaper over the cut edges of the PVC to remove plastic burrs and sharp edges.\\nIt shouldn’t take too much effort to sand away burrs and sharp edges. Avoid over sanding, as this can shorten the overall length of your PVC.\\nIf you’re using especially durable PVC, it may be easier to use a metal file instead of sandpaper. Pass the file back and forth over the PVC until sharpness and burrs are removed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Clean up dirt and debris.\", \"描述\": \"Vacuum the PVC after sanding to remove plastic shavings. Dirt, dust, or other debris can be wiped away with a clean, dampened, lint-free cloth. Follow this with a quick pass from a clean, lint-free dry cloth and you’re ready to move on.\\nSmall bits of PVC knocked loose from sanding can get stuck in PVC cement (glue), resulting in a bike rack frame that fits together poorly.\\nPVC burrs are easily tracked through the home and can cause splinters. Take care to vacuum up all PVC shavings in your work area.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put together the outer right and left sides.\", \"描述\": \"The outer right and left sides of your bike rack will be composed of two 36 in (91.4 cm) long segments of PVC and four 90° elbow joint pieces. Attach the elbow pieces to both ends of the PVC segments.\\nThe elbow pieces should be oriented to face the same direction.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add a T-connector to the elbow joints.\", \"描述\": \"Four 3 in (7.6 cm) lengths of PVC will connect each elbow connector to a T-connector. Insert the 3 in lengths into the elbow joints, then add on the T-connector.\\nThe T-connectors should be positioned so the stem of the T is 45° from the ground (halfway between flat and straight up-and-down) and facing the inside of the rack.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Follow the first T-connector with a second.\", \"描述\": \"In line with your first 3 in (7.6) segment of PVC, in the opposite side of each T-connector insert a 2 in (5 cm) piece of PVC. At the free end of each 2 in piece, add a second T-connector.\\nThe second set of T-connectors should be oriented in the same fashion as the first, so that the stem of the T points inward at a 45° angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Join the left and right sides together.\", \"描述\": \"Both sides of the PVC frame should be positioned so that each elbow joint is facing an opposing elbow joint. Leave a little more than a foot (30.5 cm) of space between each side. Connect the four elbow joints with two 12 in (30.5 cm) PVC pieces.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Rack\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put together the bike mounts.\", \"描述\": \"Connect two pieces of 24 in (61 cm) long PVC with a 90° elbow joint to form a V shape. Make a total of four of these Vs. These will form the rails/bars of the rack that the front tires of bikes can be parked between.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Insert the bike mounts into the T-connectors.\", \"描述\": \"The arms of each V should fit into the inward slanting stems of the T-connectors. In some cases, while assembling the frame you may have jostled the angle of the T-connectors, but this can be easily fixed by adjusting the connector with your hand.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue the rack together with PVC cement for improved sturdiness.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you know the frame fits together properly, remove the PVC pieces from joints one at a time. Brush cement onto the end of each PVC segment and the inside of each connector, then refasten the parts together.\\nPVC cement is pretty potent; wear rubber gloves and goggles when applying it to PVC. Avoid getting cement on your skin or in your eyes, and wash your hands after using it.\\nIf you want an easy to disassemble bike rack, which might be preferred for trail riding, leave your rack unglued.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Paint\", \"描述\": \"If you just want a simple place to store your bike, plain PVC should do just fine. However, it takes little time and effort to add a coat of spray paint to your bike rack, and this touch can really improve its overall appearance.\\nBlack works for bike rack paint jobs. Generally, this color holds up well to rough usage without needing many touchups.\\nSpray paint should only be used in a well-ventilated area. Use a drop cloth below your bike rack when painting it to prevent paint from spreading to the ground beneath the rack.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you accidentally mis-mark a guide line with your marker, use a cloth and some rubbing alcohol to remove the mark.\\n\", \"Depending on your space limitations or bike storage needs, you can decrease or increase the dimensions of this design for a smaller or larger rack.\\n\", \"Some PVC suppliers offer cutting services. Having a supplier cut your PVC to length for you could save you time.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always take care when using tools. Improper usage could result in personal harm or property damage.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,452 |
How to Build a PVC Hoophouse
|
1. Steps
1-1. Select a suitably sized patch of relatively flat ground for your greenhouse.
Be sure there are no trees, buildings, or other objects that will cast a shadow on the greenhouse for a significant portion of the day.
1-2. Using a tape measure, lay out a rectangle 16 feet (4.9 m) by 40 feet (12.2 m) on the ground to define the base of your greenhouse.
You'll probably want the 40 foot (12.2 m) dimension to run as close to east-west as you can, so the plants will get the maximum possible exposure to the sun. Measure the distance between opposite corners to make sure you have square corners. If the corners are square, the diagonal measurements will be equal (43 feet in this case). Push or hammer a 3 foot (0.9 m) piece of rebar into the ground at each corner, leaving about one foot protruding from the ground.
1-3. Lay out planting beds inside this rectangle, leaving a walkway down the center of the 40 foot (12.2 m) dimension.
You may want to consider making raised beds from planks or concrete blocks. In any case, you should perform any cultivation, tilling, addition of soil amendments, etc. at this time.
1-4. Choose one of the 16 foot (4.9 m) ends to be the "front" of your greenhouse, where the door will be located.
With the help of a friend, bend a 20 foot (6.1 m) length of PVC pipe into an arch, and slide the ends over the "front" pair of rebar stakes. Be careful not to let go until both ends are slid all the way down the stakes; it's very springy stuff and could injure someone.
1-5. Repeat the previous step with the "back" pair of stakes and another piece of PVC.
1-6. Insert pairs of 3 foot (0.9 m) rebar pieces into the ground on opposite sides of the greenhouse every 5 feet (1.5 m) down each long side of your rectangle from the "front" pair, and (again with the help of a friend) slide another length of PVC over the two new stakes.
Repeat this process until you reach the "back" of the greenhouse.
1-7. Make three 40 foot (12.2 m) pieces of PVC by gluing together pairs of 20 foot (6.1 m) pipes using PVC joint compound.
1-8. Center a 40 foot (12.2 m) pipe down the underside of the series of arches to form a "spine" for the greenhouse, using stainless steel wire to make an "X" around each intersection.
Make sure you locate the ends of the wire on the underside of the spine and so there are no sharp points sticking up that might tear the plastic sheet. You should now have something that resembles the skeleton of a beached whale.
1-9. Duct tape a 40 foot (12.2 m) pipe along the the long edge of your plastic sheet, then roll it up in a few turns of the sheet (like you're making a scroll) and duct tape it securely in place.
1-10. Repeat the previous step with the third 40 foot (12.2 m) piece of PVC along the opposite edge of the plastic sheet, roll it up, and duct tape it securely.
1-11. Lay the assembly against one of the long sides of your skeleton, and with the help of a friend or two, walk one side of the plastic sheet with PVC attached over the top of the arches to form the "skin" of your greenhouse.
1-12. Once you have the skin stretched over the skeleton, make sure it's centered, so there's an equal amount of excess material lying on each side of the greenhouse.
1-13. Pile sand, sod, or loose soil over the flap of excess material (and the attached PVC pipe) along the whole length of one side of the greenhouse.
Tuck the plastic sheet into the corner where the ribs of the greenhouse meet the ground, and be careful not to allow wrinkles to form in the sheet between the ribs.
1-14. Once one side of the sheet is thoroughly weighted down, go to the other side of the greenhouse, pull the plastic sheet down tight, and bury the excess material there the same way, making sure to keep the sheet as snug and wrinkle-free as possible.
1-15. Plant a pressure-treated 4x4 vertically about 2 feet (0.6 m) to either side of the spine of the greenhouse at each end to form uprights.
The tops of the 4x4's should extend slightly above the point where they cross the front and back ribs of the greenhouse, so dig the holes accordingly.
1-16. Attach the front and back uprights to their adjacent rib using conduit clamps or plumbers strapping & wood screws.
1-17. Pull the plastic sheet around the ends of the greenhouse and secure it to the uprights by wrapping a 1x2 in the excess plastic at each side, pulling it tight, and attaching it to the uprights with wood screws driven through the plastic and the 1x2 and into the 4x4.
You may want drill pilot holes so you don't split the 1x2 or break the screws.
1-18. Repeat the previous step at the front and back of the greenhouse.
Use the same technique to secure the excess plastic hanging over the ends of the spine, by screwing another 1x2 between the tops of the uprights.
1-19. It's up to you whether you want to put doors on both ends of the greenhouse, or a door on one end and a window on the other.
In any case, assemble suitably-sized rectangles of 1x2's, reinforcing the corners of the door with triangles of 1/4" plywood. Wrap the frames in plastic, and attach them to the uprights using standard door hinges. Attach a sliding bolt latch to the side opposite the hinges.
1-20. Seal up any gaps or tears in the plastic skin using duct tape and pieces of plastic sheet.
1-21. Add your chosen plants, and enjoy!
Tips
You can scale the size down if you'd like a smaller greenhouse; just adjust the length and number of pipes and the size of the plastic accordingly.
Open the door and/or window to vent excess heat that may build up in warmer weather, and be sure your plants get enough water.
Warnings
Be careful not to trip and impale yourself on the rebar pieces before they're covered!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:51",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Select a suitably sized patch of relatively flat ground for your greenhouse.\\nBe sure there are no trees, buildings, or other objects that will cast a shadow on the greenhouse for a significant portion of the day.\\n1-2. Using a tape measure, lay out a rectangle 16 feet (4.9 m) by 40 feet (12.2 m) on the ground to define the base of your greenhouse.\\nYou'll probably want the 40 foot (12.2 m) dimension to run as close to east-west as you can, so the plants will get the maximum possible exposure to the sun. Measure the distance between opposite corners to make sure you have square corners. If the corners are square, the diagonal measurements will be equal (43 feet in this case). Push or hammer a 3 foot (0.9 m) piece of rebar into the ground at each corner, leaving about one foot protruding from the ground.\\n1-3. Lay out planting beds inside this rectangle, leaving a walkway down the center of the 40 foot (12.2 m) dimension.\\nYou may want to consider making raised beds from planks or concrete blocks. In any case, you should perform any cultivation, tilling, addition of soil amendments, etc. at this time.\\n1-4. Choose one of the 16 foot (4.9 m) ends to be the \\\"front\\\" of your greenhouse, where the door will be located.\\nWith the help of a friend, bend a 20 foot (6.1 m) length of PVC pipe into an arch, and slide the ends over the \\\"front\\\" pair of rebar stakes. Be careful not to let go until both ends are slid all the way down the stakes; it's very springy stuff and could injure someone.\\n1-5. Repeat the previous step with the \\\"back\\\" pair of stakes and another piece of PVC.\\n\\n1-6. Insert pairs of 3 foot (0.9 m) rebar pieces into the ground on opposite sides of the greenhouse every 5 feet (1.5 m) down each long side of your rectangle from the \\\"front\\\" pair, and (again with the help of a friend) slide another length of PVC over the two new stakes.\\nRepeat this process until you reach the \\\"back\\\" of the greenhouse.\\n1-7. Make three 40 foot (12.2 m) pieces of PVC by gluing together pairs of 20 foot (6.1 m) pipes using PVC joint compound.\\n\\n1-8. Center a 40 foot (12.2 m) pipe down the underside of the series of arches to form a \\\"spine\\\" for the greenhouse, using stainless steel wire to make an \\\"X\\\" around each intersection.\\nMake sure you locate the ends of the wire on the underside of the spine and so there are no sharp points sticking up that might tear the plastic sheet. You should now have something that resembles the skeleton of a beached whale.\\n1-9. Duct tape a 40 foot (12.2 m) pipe along the the long edge of your plastic sheet, then roll it up in a few turns of the sheet (like you're making a scroll) and duct tape it securely in place.\\n\\n1-10. Repeat the previous step with the third 40 foot (12.2 m) piece of PVC along the opposite edge of the plastic sheet, roll it up, and duct tape it securely.\\n\\n1-11. Lay the assembly against one of the long sides of your skeleton, and with the help of a friend or two, walk one side of the plastic sheet with PVC attached over the top of the arches to form the \\\"skin\\\" of your greenhouse.\\n\\n1-12. Once you have the skin stretched over the skeleton, make sure it's centered, so there's an equal amount of excess material lying on each side of the greenhouse.\\n\\n1-13. Pile sand, sod, or loose soil over the flap of excess material (and the attached PVC pipe) along the whole length of one side of the greenhouse.\\nTuck the plastic sheet into the corner where the ribs of the greenhouse meet the ground, and be careful not to allow wrinkles to form in the sheet between the ribs.\\n1-14. Once one side of the sheet is thoroughly weighted down, go to the other side of the greenhouse, pull the plastic sheet down tight, and bury the excess material there the same way, making sure to keep the sheet as snug and wrinkle-free as possible.\\n\\n1-15. Plant a pressure-treated 4x4 vertically about 2 feet (0.6 m) to either side of the spine of the greenhouse at each end to form uprights.\\nThe tops of the 4x4's should extend slightly above the point where they cross the front and back ribs of the greenhouse, so dig the holes accordingly.\\n1-16. Attach the front and back uprights to their adjacent rib using conduit clamps or plumbers strapping & wood screws.\\n\\n1-17. Pull the plastic sheet around the ends of the greenhouse and secure it to the uprights by wrapping a 1x2 in the excess plastic at each side, pulling it tight, and attaching it to the uprights with wood screws driven through the plastic and the 1x2 and into the 4x4.\\nYou may want drill pilot holes so you don't split the 1x2 or break the screws.\\n1-18. Repeat the previous step at the front and back of the greenhouse.\\nUse the same technique to secure the excess plastic hanging over the ends of the spine, by screwing another 1x2 between the tops of the uprights.\\n1-19. It's up to you whether you want to put doors on both ends of the greenhouse, or a door on one end and a window on the other.\\nIn any case, assemble suitably-sized rectangles of 1x2's, reinforcing the corners of the door with triangles of 1/4\\\" plywood. Wrap the frames in plastic, and attach them to the uprights using standard door hinges. Attach a sliding bolt latch to the side opposite the hinges.\\n1-20. Seal up any gaps or tears in the plastic skin using duct tape and pieces of plastic sheet.\\n\\n1-21. Add your chosen plants, and enjoy!\\n\\nTips\\nYou can scale the size down if you'd like a smaller greenhouse; just adjust the length and number of pipes and the size of the plastic accordingly.\\nOpen the door and/or window to vent excess heat that may build up in warmer weather, and be sure your plants get enough water.\\nWarnings\\nBe careful not to trip and impale yourself on the rebar pieces before they're covered!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Build an inexpensive \\\"hoop house\\\" greenhouse to extend the growing season - in some cases, all the way through the winter!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select a suitably sized patch of relatively flat ground for your greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure there are no trees, buildings, or other objects that will cast a shadow on the greenhouse for a significant portion of the day.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using a tape measure, lay out a rectangle 16 feet (4.9 m) by 40 feet (12.2 m) on the ground to define the base of your greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"You'll probably want the 40 foot (12.2 m) dimension to run as close to east-west as you can, so the plants will get the maximum possible exposure to the sun. Measure the distance between opposite corners to make sure you have square corners. If the corners are square, the diagonal measurements will be equal (43 feet in this case). Push or hammer a 3 foot (0.9 m) piece of rebar into the ground at each corner, leaving about one foot protruding from the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay out planting beds inside this rectangle, leaving a walkway down the center of the 40 foot (12.2 m) dimension.\", \"描述\": \"You may want to consider making raised beds from planks or concrete blocks. In any case, you should perform any cultivation, tilling, addition of soil amendments, etc. at this time.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose one of the 16 foot (4.9 m) ends to be the \\\"front\\\" of your greenhouse, where the door will be located.\", \"描述\": \"With the help of a friend, bend a 20 foot (6.1 m) length of PVC pipe into an arch, and slide the ends over the \\\"front\\\" pair of rebar stakes. Be careful not to let go until both ends are slid all the way down the stakes; it's very springy stuff and could injure someone.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Repeat the previous step with the \\\"back\\\" pair of stakes and another piece of PVC.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Insert pairs of 3 foot (0.9 m) rebar pieces into the ground on opposite sides of the greenhouse every 5 feet (1.5 m) down each long side of your rectangle from the \\\"front\\\" pair, and (again with the help of a friend) slide another length of PVC over the two new stakes.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat this process until you reach the \\\"back\\\" of the greenhouse.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make three 40 foot (12.2 m) pieces of PVC by gluing together pairs of 20 foot (6.1 m) pipes using PVC joint compound.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Center a 40 foot (12.2 m) pipe down the underside of the series of arches to form a \\\"spine\\\" for the greenhouse, using stainless steel wire to make an \\\"X\\\" around each intersection.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you locate the ends of the wire on the underside of the spine and so there are no sharp points sticking up that might tear the plastic sheet. You should now have something that resembles the skeleton of a beached whale.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Duct tape a 40 foot (12.2 m) pipe along the the long edge of your plastic sheet, then roll it up in a few turns of the sheet (like you're making a scroll) and duct tape it securely in place.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Repeat the previous step with the third 40 foot (12.2 m) piece of PVC along the opposite edge of the plastic sheet, roll it up, and duct tape it securely.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Lay the assembly against one of the long sides of your skeleton, and with the help of a friend or two, walk one side of the plastic sheet with PVC attached over the top of the arches to form the \\\"skin\\\" of your greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Once you have the skin stretched over the skeleton, make sure it's centered, so there's an equal amount of excess material lying on each side of the greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Pile sand, sod, or loose soil over the flap of excess material (and the attached PVC pipe) along the whole length of one side of the greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"Tuck the plastic sheet into the corner where the ribs of the greenhouse meet the ground, and be careful not to allow wrinkles to form in the sheet between the ribs.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Once one side of the sheet is thoroughly weighted down, go to the other side of the greenhouse, pull the plastic sheet down tight, and bury the excess material there the same way, making sure to keep the sheet as snug and wrinkle-free as possible.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Plant a pressure-treated 4x4 vertically about 2 feet (0.6 m) to either side of the spine of the greenhouse at each end to form uprights.\", \"描述\": \"The tops of the 4x4's should extend slightly above the point where they cross the front and back ribs of the greenhouse, so dig the holes accordingly.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Attach the front and back uprights to their adjacent rib using conduit clamps or plumbers strapping & wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Pull the plastic sheet around the ends of the greenhouse and secure it to the uprights by wrapping a 1x2 in the excess plastic at each side, pulling it tight, and attaching it to the uprights with wood screws driven through the plastic and the 1x2 and into the 4x4.\", \"描述\": \"You may want drill pilot holes so you don't split the 1x2 or break the screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Repeat the previous step at the front and back of the greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"Use the same technique to secure the excess plastic hanging over the ends of the spine, by screwing another 1x2 between the tops of the uprights.\"}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"It's up to you whether you want to put doors on both ends of the greenhouse, or a door on one end and a window on the other.\", \"描述\": \"In any case, assemble suitably-sized rectangles of 1x2's, reinforcing the corners of the door with triangles of 1/4\\\" plywood. Wrap the frames in plastic, and attach them to the uprights using standard door hinges. Attach a sliding bolt latch to the side opposite the hinges.\"}, {\"编号\": 20, \"标题\": \"Seal up any gaps or tears in the plastic skin using duct tape and pieces of plastic sheet.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 21, \"标题\": \"Add your chosen plants, and enjoy!\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can scale the size down if you'd like a smaller greenhouse; just adjust the length and number of pipes and the size of the plastic accordingly.\\n\", \"Open the door and/or window to vent excess heat that may build up in warmer weather, and be sure your plants get enough water.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful not to trip and impale yourself on the rebar pieces before they're covered!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,453 |
How to Build a Paper Bridge
|
1. Making a Flat Bridge
1-1. Lay 1 sheet of paper between 2 textbooks that are 6 in (15 cm) apart.
Place 2 textbooks that are equal in size on a flat surface. Arrange the paper so that an even length of paper rests on each textbook.
Start building your paper bridge on the ground on or a table.
Use a sheet of 8.5 in × 11 in (22 cm × 28 cm) copy paper, which may be labeled as "A4" size, or a piece of regular notebook paper will work just as well.
You can also use wooden building blocks that are the same size instead of textbooks if you like.
1-2. Test the strength of the paper bridge using a pencil.
Rest a pencil down the center of the paper bridge, parallel to the textbooks. If the bridge holds the weight of the pencil, try adding more pencils 1 at a time to see how many the bridge can hold.
Try adjusting the distance between the textbooks if the bridge cannot hold a pencil. Making the distance smaller may give the bridge the support it needs to hold more weight.
1-3. Use lighter objects to test the strength of the bridge if it collapses.
Remove the pencil, and rearrange the paper back to the right position. Add wooden toothpicks or small coins 1 at a time to test how much weight your bridge can hold.
Small coins such as pennies or dimes are ideal.
Paper clips are also another option.
Try looking around you to find other small objects that you can use to test your bridge!
2. Folding a Pleated Bridge
2-1. Fold the sheet of copy paper in half 3 times.
Bring the short ends together. Press each half of the paper down firmly to create a fold. Keep the paper folded, and then fold it in the same direction twice more.
When the paper is unfolded, you will see 2 “M” shapes when you look at it from the side.
2-2. Unfold the sheet of paper and place it over the textbooks.
Keep the paper slightly bent like an accordion, so that it looks like 2 “M” shapes from the side. Make sure that equal parts of the paper are on each text book.
You may have to bring the textbooks slightly closer together so that the paper can reach both supports.
Pleated paper bridges can support more weight than flat paper bridges. This is because the weight of the objects is spread out over the pleats, and each pleat spreads the weight down to the foundation.
2-3. Test the strength of the new design of the paper bridge.
Place pencils, wooden toothpicks, or small coins within the pleats to see how much weight it can hold. Compare how much more weight this pleated design can hold compared to the flat bridge.
For an extra challenge, work out how the placement of the objects affects how much weight the bridge can hold. The paper bridge will be able to support evenly distributed weight more effectively, rather than if all the weight is in 1 spot.
Tips
If this activity is done in a classroom, have a discussion after making the paper bridges. Ask the students why the pleated bridge can hold more weight than the flat bridge.[4]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:52",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Flat Bridge\\n1-1. Lay 1 sheet of paper between 2 textbooks that are 6 in (15 cm) apart.\\nPlace 2 textbooks that are equal in size on a flat surface. Arrange the paper so that an even length of paper rests on each textbook.\\nStart building your paper bridge on the ground on or a table.\\nUse a sheet of 8.5 in × 11 in (22 cm × 28 cm) copy paper, which may be labeled as \\\"A4\\\" size, or a piece of regular notebook paper will work just as well.\\nYou can also use wooden building blocks that are the same size instead of textbooks if you like.\\n1-2. Test the strength of the paper bridge using a pencil.\\nRest a pencil down the center of the paper bridge, parallel to the textbooks. If the bridge holds the weight of the pencil, try adding more pencils 1 at a time to see how many the bridge can hold.\\nTry adjusting the distance between the textbooks if the bridge cannot hold a pencil. Making the distance smaller may give the bridge the support it needs to hold more weight.\\n1-3. Use lighter objects to test the strength of the bridge if it collapses.\\nRemove the pencil, and rearrange the paper back to the right position. Add wooden toothpicks or small coins 1 at a time to test how much weight your bridge can hold.\\nSmall coins such as pennies or dimes are ideal.\\nPaper clips are also another option.\\nTry looking around you to find other small objects that you can use to test your bridge!\\n2. Folding a Pleated Bridge\\n2-1. Fold the sheet of copy paper in half 3 times.\\nBring the short ends together. Press each half of the paper down firmly to create a fold. Keep the paper folded, and then fold it in the same direction twice more.\\nWhen the paper is unfolded, you will see 2 “M” shapes when you look at it from the side.\\n2-2. Unfold the sheet of paper and place it over the textbooks.\\nKeep the paper slightly bent like an accordion, so that it looks like 2 “M” shapes from the side. Make sure that equal parts of the paper are on each text book.\\nYou may have to bring the textbooks slightly closer together so that the paper can reach both supports.\\nPleated paper bridges can support more weight than flat paper bridges. This is because the weight of the objects is spread out over the pleats, and each pleat spreads the weight down to the foundation.\\n2-3. Test the strength of the new design of the paper bridge.\\nPlace pencils, wooden toothpicks, or small coins within the pleats to see how much weight it can hold. Compare how much more weight this pleated design can hold compared to the flat bridge.\\nFor an extra challenge, work out how the placement of the objects affects how much weight the bridge can hold. The paper bridge will be able to support evenly distributed weight more effectively, rather than if all the weight is in 1 spot.\\nTips\\nIf this activity is done in a classroom, have a discussion after making the paper bridges. Ask the students why the pleated bridge can hold more weight than the flat bridge.[4]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a paper bridge is a great way to explore physics and engineering principles in a fun and creative way. You will need sheets of copy paper, textbooks to be the supports of the bridge, and some small objects to test how much weight each paper bridge can hold. Make a flat bridge first, before moving on to creating a pleated bridge. This will let you see how the design differences have an impact on how much weight each bridge is able to hold\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Flat Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay 1 sheet of paper between 2 textbooks that are 6 in (15 cm) apart.\", \"描述\": \"Place 2 textbooks that are equal in size on a flat surface. Arrange the paper so that an even length of paper rests on each textbook.\\nStart building your paper bridge on the ground on or a table.\\nUse a sheet of 8.5 in × 11 in (22 cm × 28 cm) copy paper, which may be labeled as \\\"A4\\\" size, or a piece of regular notebook paper will work just as well.\\nYou can also use wooden building blocks that are the same size instead of textbooks if you like.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Test the strength of the paper bridge using a pencil.\", \"描述\": \"Rest a pencil down the center of the paper bridge, parallel to the textbooks. If the bridge holds the weight of the pencil, try adding more pencils 1 at a time to see how many the bridge can hold.\\nTry adjusting the distance between the textbooks if the bridge cannot hold a pencil. Making the distance smaller may give the bridge the support it needs to hold more weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use lighter objects to test the strength of the bridge if it collapses.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the pencil, and rearrange the paper back to the right position. Add wooden toothpicks or small coins 1 at a time to test how much weight your bridge can hold.\\nSmall coins such as pennies or dimes are ideal.\\nPaper clips are also another option.\\nTry looking around you to find other small objects that you can use to test your bridge!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Folding a Pleated Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fold the sheet of copy paper in half 3 times.\", \"描述\": \"Bring the short ends together. Press each half of the paper down firmly to create a fold. Keep the paper folded, and then fold it in the same direction twice more.\\nWhen the paper is unfolded, you will see 2 “M” shapes when you look at it from the side.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Unfold the sheet of paper and place it over the textbooks.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the paper slightly bent like an accordion, so that it looks like 2 “M” shapes from the side. Make sure that equal parts of the paper are on each text book.\\nYou may have to bring the textbooks slightly closer together so that the paper can reach both supports.\\nPleated paper bridges can support more weight than flat paper bridges. This is because the weight of the objects is spread out over the pleats, and each pleat spreads the weight down to the foundation.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Test the strength of the new design of the paper bridge.\", \"描述\": \"Place pencils, wooden toothpicks, or small coins within the pleats to see how much weight it can hold. Compare how much more weight this pleated design can hold compared to the flat bridge.\\nFor an extra challenge, work out how the placement of the objects affects how much weight the bridge can hold. The paper bridge will be able to support evenly distributed weight more effectively, rather than if all the weight is in 1 spot.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If this activity is done in a classroom, have a discussion after making the paper bridges. Ask the students why the pleated bridge can hold more weight than the flat bridge.[4]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,454 |
How to Build a Paver Patio
|
1. Plotting Your Patio
1-1. Decide where you want your patio to go.
Paver patios most often serve as an extension of the house, allowing visitors to transition from the back door or porch straight onto the stone surface. You could also reserve an out-of-the-way corner of a big yard for a private lounging area. An open, scenic spot with no trees or large plants nearby will work best.
Whatever space you choose should be roomy enough to move around in comfortably and hold a few pieces of patio furniture, along with any guests you might be entertaining in the future.
Consider drainage issues, such as runoff from the patio surface and edges, to ensure water won’t pool on the patio. If you’ll be installing an awning or overhang, consider whether you’ll also need gutters or downspouts to direct the water away from the patio.
It's also important to check the area so you can plan ahead and ensure your pavers will fit.
1-2. Remove nearby obstacles.
Pull up any small shrubs, stumps, roots, and lawn decorations in the immediate vicinity and make sure the ground is free of fallen branches and other debris. Clear the area a few feet beyond your intended patio space to give yourself room to work comfortably.
Put your existing outdoor furniture into storage for now—you can replace it later once the patio is finished.
If your designated patio area is covered with mulch, remove it to another part of the garden.
1-3. Line off the planned dimensions of your patio.
Once you’ve got an idea of where you want the patio to go, drop a few garden stakes to mark the perimeter. Use a tape measure to make sure your boundary lines are straight and even, then close in the perimeter with string or marking paint.
When building a patio with a curved perimeter, bend a garden hose into shape and use it to serve as a rough visual aid.
1-4. Design your own custom patio.
You can also take a free-form approach to your patio's placement, if you’d prefer. This can save you quite a bit of time and labor, since you won’t have to cut the pavers to fit an area of a specific size. It will also allow you to get as creative as you like while planning your layout.
Build your patio along the contours of a winding walkway or in a small alcove where it would be difficult to find space for a traditional square or rectangular setup.
Whatever shape you decide on for your patio should make sense visually within your yard as a whole.
If you’ll be adding an awning or overhang, make sure this structure is in place (and meets proper load and weight requirements) before building the patio.
1-5. Choose a design for the paver stones.
You have several different options when it comes to arranging the pavers themselves. Simple patterns like jack-on-jack (where the stones repeat like a grid) or running bond (where every other row is offset) will be the easiest to install. If you’d prefer a more lavish layout, consider a complex design like herringbone or pinwheel.
Keep in mind that more complex arrangements will likely require you to cut or otherwise modify the pavers in order to get them to fit. For this, you will need a circular saw with a diamond tip. Make sure to set the paver on a non-slip mat before beginning to cut as this will help to keep the paver in place during cutting and prevent any accidents.
2. Excavating and Leveling Your Yard
2-1. Contact your local utility company at least 2 days prior to digging.
To ensure you don’t hit a buried utility line, get in touch with your local utility company. Call them at least 2 days before starting your project and ask them to locate and mark buried lines on your property. This service is free and can prevent accidents and power outages.
In the U.S., call the digline at “811.” They’ll talk you through the steps you need to take to dig safely and even contact the correct utility company to mark buried lines on your property.
If past residents have made adjustments or additions to the utilities, you may need to contact a landscaping or excavating service to help you find each point of service.
2-2. Dig out the patio area to a depth of 12 in (30 cm).
This will leave just the right amount of space for both the paver stones and the underlying substrate. You can take care of most of the removal using a single shovel. A hand trowel will also be useful for keeping the edges of the site clean and precise.
Since most pavers are 3 inches thick, you will need, the remaining 9 inches of the hole will be filled with gravel and paver sand to help secure everything in place.
You can use a tiller to break up the soil first and make it easier to hand shovel the required depth and remove by wheel barrow. Large areas may require a skid steer or mini-excavator or tractor with a backhoe and front bucket attachment.
When it’s complete, your paver patio should sit at or slightly above ground level.
2-3. Use an elevated level to create slope as you dig.
A slight slope is necessary to promote runoff during wet weather. Cut a 1 in (2.5 cm) piece of scrap wood and tie it to the end of a level. That way, you can ensure that your finished patio has 1 in (2.5 cm) of drop off every 4 feet (1.2 m).
Ensure the slope angles away from the patio and add drainage if necessary.
You may be able to get by with a perfectly level patio if you live in a place with a hot, dry climate, or if you’ve elected to place the patio beneath an overhang.
2-4. Leave room for underground utilities.
If you need to bury electrical cable for outdoor lighting, do it now before you begin adding the substrate—dirt is more forgiving on cables than rougher materials like sand and gravel. Make sure the wire or cable is rated for direct burying or is in an approved conduit. Notch the soil around the edges of the pit with your trowel and lay the cable in a straight path, avoiding kinks, coils, and splices wherever possible.
Take a few moments to check whether your lighting elements are functional. Otherwise, you'll just have to dig them back up if something goes wrong later on.
2-5. Tamp the soil to flatten it.
Use a hand tamper or a plate compactor and work your way inward from the perimeter of the site. This will provide a more stable foundation for the substrate and prevent the paver stones from shifting once they’ve been put in place.
As an optional step, you can also roll out a sheet of landscaping fabric at this point to act as a buffer for weeds and prevent them from taking root beneath the gravel base.
2-6. Pour 4 in (10 cm) of crushed gravel for the base.
Dump the gravel into the pit and use a heavy iron rake to distribute it out to the edges. Make sure you spread the gravel evenly, adding more until you reach the desired depth. As you did with the soil, tamp the gravel down until it’s firmly set. Wetting the gravel can help you distribute and pack it evenly.
2-7. Add 3 in (7.5 cm) of leveling sand.
This layer will fill in the cracks in the gravel. It will also give the paver stones something to settle into, offering additional stability.
Snip a corner off of the bag and sift it slowly, guiding it from one side of the pit to the other.
2-8. Level the sand with a flat board.
To avoid over or under-filling the base, cut a couple lengths of 1-in (2.5-cm) PVC pipe and place them parallel to one another down the middle of the pit before you pour in the sand. Then, drag a flat board, like a 2x4, along both pipes to level the heap. When you’re done, pull out the pipes, fill in the depressions, and tamp the entire surface flat.
Rather than dumping in all of the sand at once, proceed a few feet at a time—pouring, smoothing, and repeating.
3. Installing the Pavers
3-1. Lay down the paver stones from the outer perimeter.
Press the pavers gently into the leveling sand, starting at one corner of the pit and working your way toward the center. Leave a narrow gap between each stone, no less than ⅛ in (0.32 cm) and no more than ½ in (1.27 cm)—you’ll be filling in this space later with more sand.
Use photos of completed patios as a reference when figuring out the placement of your pavers.
It will take longer to embed raw stones or pavers with natural finishes, as they’ll need to be adjusted to the right height individually.
3-2. Keep a consistent amount of space between each paver.
It may help to separate the stones with a sheet of plywood or with spacer blocks as you install them. Slide the plywood against the edge of the pit and drop your first stone. Then, turn the sheet 90 degrees to create a gap between the neighboring stones. Continue one row or pattern section at a time, repositioning the plywood after laying down each paver.
Keep uniformly-shaped pavers as close together as possible. Leaving space between them not only requires more joint sand to fill in the gaps, it also reduces shifting later when the joint sand loosens or is washed or blown away.
3-3. Check your slope as you go.
Keep your level and a straightedge handy and refer to them frequently. Aim for approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) of drop off every 4 ft (1.2 m). This will ensure that your patio will be able to drain as needed.
Adjust the amount of substrate in a given section as needed by tamping or redistributing it.
For a flat ground patio, look for the substrate to be as level as possible before proceeding.
3-4. Cut the pavers to fit if necessary.
Some full-sized stones may be too big to go in a certain spot. In this case, a wet saw or circular saw with a diamond blade, which can be rented from a home improvement store, will be required to cut through the hard stone. Assuming that you don’t have access to a power saw, you can also break down the pavers the old fashioned way using a mallet and chisel.
When you come to a paver that won’t fit, mark it with a piece of chalk so you’ll know where you need to cut.
Always wear gloves, a face mask, and ear and eye protection anytime you’re working with power saws.
3-5. Tap the pavers into place with a rubber mallet.
Pound the top of the stones to set them deeper into the sand. This can be a painstaking process, but it’s crucial for ensuring that the pavers are stable enough to stand, walk and set furniture on.
Don’t attempt to secure the pavers by simply stomping on them. This may cause them to sink too deep, or knock them out of alignment.
If you find that the pavers are sitting unevenly, you may need to work them deeper into the substrate by hand.
3-6. Fill the gaps between the pavers with another layer of sand.
Spread an additional ½ in (1.25 cm) of levelling sand over the tops of the stones. Use a broom to carefully push the sand into the spaces between the pavers. Sweep in several different directions to fill the joints completely. Any remaining sand can be swept off later.
Jointing sand can offer a permanent alternative to ordinary sand. This substance contains additives that form a solid bond after being exposed to moisture.
Vacuum up any stubborn sand that collects where it's not supposed to, or use a leaf blower to blast it out into the far reaches of the yard.
3-7. Install edging, if desired.
If you want your patio to have a neat and uniform edge, you can install paver edging. Choose from plastic, concrete, metal, or wood. Position the edging along the perimeter of the patio pavers. Secure it with galvanized spikes per the paver manufacturer’s guidelines.
3-8. Hose down the entire patio.
A good spray will help the pavers settle and pack the underlying substrate down tight. Just make sure you don't oversaturate the area, or you could end up with a swamp instead of a relaxing outdoor lounge. Once the water has had time to dry, you can replace your furniture and kick back!
Wet the patio every hour for the first 3 hours to accelerate the compacting process.
3-9. Seal the patio once it’s dried.
To keep the sand in the joints and protect your new pavers, you should apply a sealer to the patio once it is completely dry. Use a 4-inch (10-cm) brush to apply sealer to the outsider perimeter of the patio. Then use a garden-style pump to spray sealant over the rest of the patio. Allow it to dry completely, then repeat the process to apply a second coat.
Paver patio sealer can be found at home improvement stores.
Tips
Compare pavers in different colors, sizes, and materials to find a set that matches your vision for the project.
Paver stones are typically very heavy, and may be too much for one or two people to lug around. Recruiting a few extra sets of hands and having the pavers delivered will make your life a lot easier.
Equip yourself with a pair of rugged work gloves and some cushioned knee pads to keep yourself more comfortable during a long installation process.
Warnings
Make sure the pavers are completely dry before bonding them with jointing sand. It’s possible for the dust to leave behind permanent white spots or streaks when it gets damp.
Be extremely careful when operating power saws and other dangerous equipment. If you’re not sure how to run these tools safely, it may be better left to a professional.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:52",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Plotting Your Patio\\n1-1. Decide where you want your patio to go.\\nPaver patios most often serve as an extension of the house, allowing visitors to transition from the back door or porch straight onto the stone surface. You could also reserve an out-of-the-way corner of a big yard for a private lounging area. An open, scenic spot with no trees or large plants nearby will work best.\\nWhatever space you choose should be roomy enough to move around in comfortably and hold a few pieces of patio furniture, along with any guests you might be entertaining in the future.\\nConsider drainage issues, such as runoff from the patio surface and edges, to ensure water won’t pool on the patio. If you’ll be installing an awning or overhang, consider whether you’ll also need gutters or downspouts to direct the water away from the patio.\\nIt's also important to check the area so you can plan ahead and ensure your pavers will fit.\\n1-2. Remove nearby obstacles.\\nPull up any small shrubs, stumps, roots, and lawn decorations in the immediate vicinity and make sure the ground is free of fallen branches and other debris. Clear the area a few feet beyond your intended patio space to give yourself room to work comfortably.\\nPut your existing outdoor furniture into storage for now—you can replace it later once the patio is finished.\\nIf your designated patio area is covered with mulch, remove it to another part of the garden.\\n1-3. Line off the planned dimensions of your patio.\\nOnce you’ve got an idea of where you want the patio to go, drop a few garden stakes to mark the perimeter. Use a tape measure to make sure your boundary lines are straight and even, then close in the perimeter with string or marking paint.\\nWhen building a patio with a curved perimeter, bend a garden hose into shape and use it to serve as a rough visual aid.\\n1-4. Design your own custom patio.\\nYou can also take a free-form approach to your patio's placement, if you’d prefer. This can save you quite a bit of time and labor, since you won’t have to cut the pavers to fit an area of a specific size. It will also allow you to get as creative as you like while planning your layout.\\nBuild your patio along the contours of a winding walkway or in a small alcove where it would be difficult to find space for a traditional square or rectangular setup.\\nWhatever shape you decide on for your patio should make sense visually within your yard as a whole.\\nIf you’ll be adding an awning or overhang, make sure this structure is in place (and meets proper load and weight requirements) before building the patio.\\n1-5. Choose a design for the paver stones.\\nYou have several different options when it comes to arranging the pavers themselves. Simple patterns like jack-on-jack (where the stones repeat like a grid) or running bond (where every other row is offset) will be the easiest to install. If you’d prefer a more lavish layout, consider a complex design like herringbone or pinwheel.\\nKeep in mind that more complex arrangements will likely require you to cut or otherwise modify the pavers in order to get them to fit. For this, you will need a circular saw with a diamond tip. Make sure to set the paver on a non-slip mat before beginning to cut as this will help to keep the paver in place during cutting and prevent any accidents.\\n2. Excavating and Leveling Your Yard\\n2-1. Contact your local utility company at least 2 days prior to digging.\\nTo ensure you don’t hit a buried utility line, get in touch with your local utility company. Call them at least 2 days before starting your project and ask them to locate and mark buried lines on your property. This service is free and can prevent accidents and power outages.\\nIn the U.S., call the digline at “811.” They’ll talk you through the steps you need to take to dig safely and even contact the correct utility company to mark buried lines on your property.\\nIf past residents have made adjustments or additions to the utilities, you may need to contact a landscaping or excavating service to help you find each point of service.\\n2-2. Dig out the patio area to a depth of 12 in (30 cm).\\nThis will leave just the right amount of space for both the paver stones and the underlying substrate. You can take care of most of the removal using a single shovel. A hand trowel will also be useful for keeping the edges of the site clean and precise.\\nSince most pavers are 3 inches thick, you will need, the remaining 9 inches of the hole will be filled with gravel and paver sand to help secure everything in place.\\nYou can use a tiller to break up the soil first and make it easier to hand shovel the required depth and remove by wheel barrow. Large areas may require a skid steer or mini-excavator or tractor with a backhoe and front bucket attachment.\\nWhen it’s complete, your paver patio should sit at or slightly above ground level.\\n2-3. Use an elevated level to create slope as you dig.\\nA slight slope is necessary to promote runoff during wet weather. Cut a 1 in (2.5 cm) piece of scrap wood and tie it to the end of a level. That way, you can ensure that your finished patio has 1 in (2.5 cm) of drop off every 4 feet (1.2 m).\\nEnsure the slope angles away from the patio and add drainage if necessary.\\nYou may be able to get by with a perfectly level patio if you live in a place with a hot, dry climate, or if you’ve elected to place the patio beneath an overhang.\\n2-4. Leave room for underground utilities.\\nIf you need to bury electrical cable for outdoor lighting, do it now before you begin adding the substrate—dirt is more forgiving on cables than rougher materials like sand and gravel. Make sure the wire or cable is rated for direct burying or is in an approved conduit. Notch the soil around the edges of the pit with your trowel and lay the cable in a straight path, avoiding kinks, coils, and splices wherever possible.\\nTake a few moments to check whether your lighting elements are functional. Otherwise, you'll just have to dig them back up if something goes wrong later on.\\n2-5. Tamp the soil to flatten it.\\nUse a hand tamper or a plate compactor and work your way inward from the perimeter of the site. This will provide a more stable foundation for the substrate and prevent the paver stones from shifting once they’ve been put in place.\\nAs an optional step, you can also roll out a sheet of landscaping fabric at this point to act as a buffer for weeds and prevent them from taking root beneath the gravel base.\\n2-6. Pour 4 in (10 cm) of crushed gravel for the base.\\nDump the gravel into the pit and use a heavy iron rake to distribute it out to the edges. Make sure you spread the gravel evenly, adding more until you reach the desired depth. As you did with the soil, tamp the gravel down until it’s firmly set. Wetting the gravel can help you distribute and pack it evenly.\\n2-7. Add 3 in (7.5 cm) of leveling sand.\\nThis layer will fill in the cracks in the gravel. It will also give the paver stones something to settle into, offering additional stability.\\nSnip a corner off of the bag and sift it slowly, guiding it from one side of the pit to the other.\\n2-8. Level the sand with a flat board.\\nTo avoid over or under-filling the base, cut a couple lengths of 1-in (2.5-cm) PVC pipe and place them parallel to one another down the middle of the pit before you pour in the sand. Then, drag a flat board, like a 2x4, along both pipes to level the heap. When you’re done, pull out the pipes, fill in the depressions, and tamp the entire surface flat.\\nRather than dumping in all of the sand at once, proceed a few feet at a time—pouring, smoothing, and repeating.\\n3. Installing the Pavers\\n3-1. Lay down the paver stones from the outer perimeter.\\nPress the pavers gently into the leveling sand, starting at one corner of the pit and working your way toward the center. Leave a narrow gap between each stone, no less than ⅛ in (0.32 cm) and no more than ½ in (1.27 cm)—you’ll be filling in this space later with more sand.\\nUse photos of completed patios as a reference when figuring out the placement of your pavers.\\nIt will take longer to embed raw stones or pavers with natural finishes, as they’ll need to be adjusted to the right height individually.\\n3-2. Keep a consistent amount of space between each paver.\\nIt may help to separate the stones with a sheet of plywood or with spacer blocks as you install them. Slide the plywood against the edge of the pit and drop your first stone. Then, turn the sheet 90 degrees to create a gap between the neighboring stones. Continue one row or pattern section at a time, repositioning the plywood after laying down each paver.\\nKeep uniformly-shaped pavers as close together as possible. Leaving space between them not only requires more joint sand to fill in the gaps, it also reduces shifting later when the joint sand loosens or is washed or blown away.\\n3-3. Check your slope as you go.\\nKeep your level and a straightedge handy and refer to them frequently. Aim for approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) of drop off every 4 ft (1.2 m). This will ensure that your patio will be able to drain as needed.\\nAdjust the amount of substrate in a given section as needed by tamping or redistributing it.\\nFor a flat ground patio, look for the substrate to be as level as possible before proceeding.\\n3-4. Cut the pavers to fit if necessary.\\nSome full-sized stones may be too big to go in a certain spot. In this case, a wet saw or circular saw with a diamond blade, which can be rented from a home improvement store, will be required to cut through the hard stone. Assuming that you don’t have access to a power saw, you can also break down the pavers the old fashioned way using a mallet and chisel.\\nWhen you come to a paver that won’t fit, mark it with a piece of chalk so you’ll know where you need to cut.\\nAlways wear gloves, a face mask, and ear and eye protection anytime you’re working with power saws.\\n3-5. Tap the pavers into place with a rubber mallet.\\nPound the top of the stones to set them deeper into the sand. This can be a painstaking process, but it’s crucial for ensuring that the pavers are stable enough to stand, walk and set furniture on.\\nDon’t attempt to secure the pavers by simply stomping on them. This may cause them to sink too deep, or knock them out of alignment.\\nIf you find that the pavers are sitting unevenly, you may need to work them deeper into the substrate by hand.\\n3-6. Fill the gaps between the pavers with another layer of sand.\\nSpread an additional ½ in (1.25 cm) of levelling sand over the tops of the stones. Use a broom to carefully push the sand into the spaces between the pavers. Sweep in several different directions to fill the joints completely. Any remaining sand can be swept off later.\\nJointing sand can offer a permanent alternative to ordinary sand. This substance contains additives that form a solid bond after being exposed to moisture.\\nVacuum up any stubborn sand that collects where it's not supposed to, or use a leaf blower to blast it out into the far reaches of the yard.\\n3-7. Install edging, if desired.\\nIf you want your patio to have a neat and uniform edge, you can install paver edging. Choose from plastic, concrete, metal, or wood. Position the edging along the perimeter of the patio pavers. Secure it with galvanized spikes per the paver manufacturer’s guidelines.\\n3-8. Hose down the entire patio.\\nA good spray will help the pavers settle and pack the underlying substrate down tight. Just make sure you don't oversaturate the area, or you could end up with a swamp instead of a relaxing outdoor lounge. Once the water has had time to dry, you can replace your furniture and kick back!\\nWet the patio every hour for the first 3 hours to accelerate the compacting process.\\n3-9. Seal the patio once it’s dried.\\nTo keep the sand in the joints and protect your new pavers, you should apply a sealer to the patio once it is completely dry. Use a 4-inch (10-cm) brush to apply sealer to the outsider perimeter of the patio. Then use a garden-style pump to spray sealant over the rest of the patio. Allow it to dry completely, then repeat the process to apply a second coat.\\nPaver patio sealer can be found at home improvement stores.\\nTips\\nCompare pavers in different colors, sizes, and materials to find a set that matches your vision for the project.\\nPaver stones are typically very heavy, and may be too much for one or two people to lug around. Recruiting a few extra sets of hands and having the pavers delivered will make your life a lot easier.\\nEquip yourself with a pair of rugged work gloves and some cushioned knee pads to keep yourself more comfortable during a long installation process.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure the pavers are completely dry before bonding them with jointing sand. It’s possible for the dust to leave behind permanent white spots or streaks when it gets damp.\\nBe extremely careful when operating power saws and other dangerous equipment. If you’re not sure how to run these tools safely, it may be better left to a professional.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"With the addition of a few rustic paver stones, you can transform a humdrum backyard into an enchanted wilderness escape. All you need is a basic plan for your new patio space and an eye-catching design for the stones themselves. Once the initial planning is out of the way, you can begin the process of excavating your lawn and installing the foundation layer-by-layer. When it’s all said and done, you’ll have an idyllic, professional-looking outdoor haven to show for your efforts.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plotting Your Patio\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide where you want your patio to go.\", \"描述\": \"Paver patios most often serve as an extension of the house, allowing visitors to transition from the back door or porch straight onto the stone surface. You could also reserve an out-of-the-way corner of a big yard for a private lounging area. An open, scenic spot with no trees or large plants nearby will work best.\\nWhatever space you choose should be roomy enough to move around in comfortably and hold a few pieces of patio furniture, along with any guests you might be entertaining in the future.\\nConsider drainage issues, such as runoff from the patio surface and edges, to ensure water won’t pool on the patio. If you’ll be installing an awning or overhang, consider whether you’ll also need gutters or downspouts to direct the water away from the patio.\\nIt's also important to check the area so you can plan ahead and ensure your pavers will fit.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove nearby obstacles.\", \"描述\": \"Pull up any small shrubs, stumps, roots, and lawn decorations in the immediate vicinity and make sure the ground is free of fallen branches and other debris. Clear the area a few feet beyond your intended patio space to give yourself room to work comfortably.\\nPut your existing outdoor furniture into storage for now—you can replace it later once the patio is finished.\\nIf your designated patio area is covered with mulch, remove it to another part of the garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Line off the planned dimensions of your patio.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve got an idea of where you want the patio to go, drop a few garden stakes to mark the perimeter. Use a tape measure to make sure your boundary lines are straight and even, then close in the perimeter with string or marking paint.\\nWhen building a patio with a curved perimeter, bend a garden hose into shape and use it to serve as a rough visual aid.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Design your own custom patio.\", \"描述\": \"You can also take a free-form approach to your patio's placement, if you’d prefer. This can save you quite a bit of time and labor, since you won’t have to cut the pavers to fit an area of a specific size. It will also allow you to get as creative as you like while planning your layout.\\nBuild your patio along the contours of a winding walkway or in a small alcove where it would be difficult to find space for a traditional square or rectangular setup.\\nWhatever shape you decide on for your patio should make sense visually within your yard as a whole.\\nIf you’ll be adding an awning or overhang, make sure this structure is in place (and meets proper load and weight requirements) before building the patio.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose a design for the paver stones.\", \"描述\": \"You have several different options when it comes to arranging the pavers themselves. Simple patterns like jack-on-jack (where the stones repeat like a grid) or running bond (where every other row is offset) will be the easiest to install. If you’d prefer a more lavish layout, consider a complex design like herringbone or pinwheel.\\nKeep in mind that more complex arrangements will likely require you to cut or otherwise modify the pavers in order to get them to fit. For this, you will need a circular saw with a diamond tip. Make sure to set the paver on a non-slip mat before beginning to cut as this will help to keep the paver in place during cutting and prevent any accidents.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Excavating and Leveling Your Yard\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Contact your local utility company at least 2 days prior to digging.\", \"描述\": \"To ensure you don’t hit a buried utility line, get in touch with your local utility company. Call them at least 2 days before starting your project and ask them to locate and mark buried lines on your property. This service is free and can prevent accidents and power outages.\\nIn the U.S., call the digline at “811.” They’ll talk you through the steps you need to take to dig safely and even contact the correct utility company to mark buried lines on your property.\\nIf past residents have made adjustments or additions to the utilities, you may need to contact a landscaping or excavating service to help you find each point of service.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig out the patio area to a depth of 12 in (30 cm).\", \"描述\": \"This will leave just the right amount of space for both the paver stones and the underlying substrate. You can take care of most of the removal using a single shovel. A hand trowel will also be useful for keeping the edges of the site clean and precise.\\nSince most pavers are 3 inches thick, you will need, the remaining 9 inches of the hole will be filled with gravel and paver sand to help secure everything in place.\\nYou can use a tiller to break up the soil first and make it easier to hand shovel the required depth and remove by wheel barrow. Large areas may require a skid steer or mini-excavator or tractor with a backhoe and front bucket attachment.\\nWhen it’s complete, your paver patio should sit at or slightly above ground level.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use an elevated level to create slope as you dig.\", \"描述\": \"A slight slope is necessary to promote runoff during wet weather. Cut a 1 in (2.5 cm) piece of scrap wood and tie it to the end of a level. That way, you can ensure that your finished patio has 1 in (2.5 cm) of drop off every 4 feet (1.2 m).\\nEnsure the slope angles away from the patio and add drainage if necessary.\\nYou may be able to get by with a perfectly level patio if you live in a place with a hot, dry climate, or if you’ve elected to place the patio beneath an overhang.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Leave room for underground utilities.\", \"描述\": \"If you need to bury electrical cable for outdoor lighting, do it now before you begin adding the substrate—dirt is more forgiving on cables than rougher materials like sand and gravel. Make sure the wire or cable is rated for direct burying or is in an approved conduit. Notch the soil around the edges of the pit with your trowel and lay the cable in a straight path, avoiding kinks, coils, and splices wherever possible.\\nTake a few moments to check whether your lighting elements are functional. Otherwise, you'll just have to dig them back up if something goes wrong later on.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tamp the soil to flatten it.\", \"描述\": \"Use a hand tamper or a plate compactor and work your way inward from the perimeter of the site. This will provide a more stable foundation for the substrate and prevent the paver stones from shifting once they’ve been put in place.\\nAs an optional step, you can also roll out a sheet of landscaping fabric at this point to act as a buffer for weeds and prevent them from taking root beneath the gravel base.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pour 4 in (10 cm) of crushed gravel for the base.\", \"描述\": \"Dump the gravel into the pit and use a heavy iron rake to distribute it out to the edges. Make sure you spread the gravel evenly, adding more until you reach the desired depth. As you did with the soil, tamp the gravel down until it’s firmly set. Wetting the gravel can help you distribute and pack it evenly.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add 3 in (7.5 cm) of leveling sand.\", \"描述\": \"This layer will fill in the cracks in the gravel. It will also give the paver stones something to settle into, offering additional stability.\\nSnip a corner off of the bag and sift it slowly, guiding it from one side of the pit to the other.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Level the sand with a flat board.\", \"描述\": \"To avoid over or under-filling the base, cut a couple lengths of 1-in (2.5-cm) PVC pipe and place them parallel to one another down the middle of the pit before you pour in the sand. Then, drag a flat board, like a 2x4, along both pipes to level the heap. When you’re done, pull out the pipes, fill in the depressions, and tamp the entire surface flat.\\nRather than dumping in all of the sand at once, proceed a few feet at a time—pouring, smoothing, and repeating.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Pavers\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay down the paver stones from the outer perimeter.\", \"描述\": \"Press the pavers gently into the leveling sand, starting at one corner of the pit and working your way toward the center. Leave a narrow gap between each stone, no less than ⅛ in (0.32 cm) and no more than ½ in (1.27 cm)—you’ll be filling in this space later with more sand.\\nUse photos of completed patios as a reference when figuring out the placement of your pavers.\\nIt will take longer to embed raw stones or pavers with natural finishes, as they’ll need to be adjusted to the right height individually.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep a consistent amount of space between each paver.\", \"描述\": \"It may help to separate the stones with a sheet of plywood or with spacer blocks as you install them. Slide the plywood against the edge of the pit and drop your first stone. Then, turn the sheet 90 degrees to create a gap between the neighboring stones. Continue one row or pattern section at a time, repositioning the plywood after laying down each paver.\\nKeep uniformly-shaped pavers as close together as possible. Leaving space between them not only requires more joint sand to fill in the gaps, it also reduces shifting later when the joint sand loosens or is washed or blown away.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Check your slope as you go.\", \"描述\": \"Keep your level and a straightedge handy and refer to them frequently. Aim for approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) of drop off every 4 ft (1.2 m). This will ensure that your patio will be able to drain as needed.\\nAdjust the amount of substrate in a given section as needed by tamping or redistributing it.\\nFor a flat ground patio, look for the substrate to be as level as possible before proceeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the pavers to fit if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Some full-sized stones may be too big to go in a certain spot. In this case, a wet saw or circular saw with a diamond blade, which can be rented from a home improvement store, will be required to cut through the hard stone. Assuming that you don’t have access to a power saw, you can also break down the pavers the old fashioned way using a mallet and chisel.\\nWhen you come to a paver that won’t fit, mark it with a piece of chalk so you’ll know where you need to cut.\\nAlways wear gloves, a face mask, and ear and eye protection anytime you’re working with power saws.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tap the pavers into place with a rubber mallet.\", \"描述\": \"Pound the top of the stones to set them deeper into the sand. This can be a painstaking process, but it’s crucial for ensuring that the pavers are stable enough to stand, walk and set furniture on.\\nDon’t attempt to secure the pavers by simply stomping on them. This may cause them to sink too deep, or knock them out of alignment.\\nIf you find that the pavers are sitting unevenly, you may need to work them deeper into the substrate by hand.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fill the gaps between the pavers with another layer of sand.\", \"描述\": \"Spread an additional ½ in (1.25 cm) of levelling sand over the tops of the stones. Use a broom to carefully push the sand into the spaces between the pavers. Sweep in several different directions to fill the joints completely. Any remaining sand can be swept off later.\\nJointing sand can offer a permanent alternative to ordinary sand. This substance contains additives that form a solid bond after being exposed to moisture.\\nVacuum up any stubborn sand that collects where it's not supposed to, or use a leaf blower to blast it out into the far reaches of the yard.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install edging, if desired.\", \"描述\": \"If you want your patio to have a neat and uniform edge, you can install paver edging. Choose from plastic, concrete, metal, or wood. Position the edging along the perimeter of the patio pavers. Secure it with galvanized spikes per the paver manufacturer’s guidelines.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Hose down the entire patio.\", \"描述\": \"A good spray will help the pavers settle and pack the underlying substrate down tight. Just make sure you don't oversaturate the area, or you could end up with a swamp instead of a relaxing outdoor lounge. Once the water has had time to dry, you can replace your furniture and kick back!\\nWet the patio every hour for the first 3 hours to accelerate the compacting process.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Seal the patio once it’s dried.\", \"描述\": \"To keep the sand in the joints and protect your new pavers, you should apply a sealer to the patio once it is completely dry. Use a 4-inch (10-cm) brush to apply sealer to the outsider perimeter of the patio. Then use a garden-style pump to spray sealant over the rest of the patio. Allow it to dry completely, then repeat the process to apply a second coat.\\nPaver patio sealer can be found at home improvement stores.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Compare pavers in different colors, sizes, and materials to find a set that matches your vision for the project.\\n\", \"Paver stones are typically very heavy, and may be too much for one or two people to lug around. Recruiting a few extra sets of hands and having the pavers delivered will make your life a lot easier.\\n\", \"Equip yourself with a pair of rugged work gloves and some cushioned knee pads to keep yourself more comfortable during a long installation process.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure the pavers are completely dry before bonding them with jointing sand. It’s possible for the dust to leave behind permanent white spots or streaks when it gets damp.\\n\", \"Be extremely careful when operating power saws and other dangerous equipment. If you’re not sure how to run these tools safely, it may be better left to a professional.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,455 |
How to Build a Pen Drive
|
1. Building the Pen Drive
1-1. Protect your work surface.
Spread a cloth or a newspaper to avoid leaving marks.
1-2. Acquire a flash memory chip.
There are many such chips available. This chip will be the heart of your Pen Drive.
1-3. Use a Drill to cut the plastic to the right size, depending on your chip.
Make sure that the combined size of both does not exceed the maximum size of a standard USB Connector.
It is a good idea to wear goggles while doing this, as drill bits and flashing can fly.
1-4. Align the plastic case and the chip.
Cut off any excess plastic. Remember to maintain absolute precision.
1-5. Glue the plastic to the chip, keeping the chip connector side down, so as not to cover it up.
Avoid using normal glue or superglue, this can leave stains on your work area and might mess up the components. Use a glue made to glue plastics together.
1-6. Join the two components firmly using a vice, clamp, or just by pressing them together between your palms.
Be very careful not to mess up the alignment.
1-7. Wait for the glue to dry.
Leave your Pen Drive for a while as the glue dries. Keep it under a fan to help it dry faster.
2. Decorating and Designing the Pen Drive
2-1. Measure the USB connector.
Leave a 2 centimeter (0.8 in) gap starting from the front of the pen drive, making sure not to cover the connector. It is better to leave more gap than less gap, as your pen drive may not go in at all if improperly designed.
2-2. Draw a rough dividing line, dividing the pen drive into two parts, head and body.
The head of the pen drive is the part that plugs into the computer, whereas the body stays outside and can be decorated. Use the measurement you made in the previous step to facilitate this task.
2-3. Remember to only decorate the body.
All the steps below should be applied only to the body of the pen drive.
2-4. Encase the pen drive.
This is not necessary, but can go a long way toward protecting your pen drive from mechanical damage. It also makes it look better. This should be done only to the body! Follow the steps below to encase the pen drive:
Lay the pen drive on your work surface, and measure its dimensions.
Drill a hole of the dimensions of the pen drive into a slab of plastic.
Cut out any excess plastic, leaving a border around the hole.
Place the pen drive in the hole and use some glue to lock it in place, if necessary.
2-5. Paint the pen drive in your favourite colours.
2-6. Decorate it!
This is up to your imagination. Here are some ideas:
Put the pen drive in a 3D case
Add a tag or a hole to it to use it as a keychain.
Add some papier mache, or glitter.
3. Setting Up the Pen Drive
3-1. Decide what you want to use the pen drive for.
Pen drives have a wide variety of uses, and some of them are given below:
Bootable OS Drive
Simple Flash Memory Drive
Portable App Drive
System Restore Drive
Ram Drive
Encrypted Data Drive
System Unlock Key
3-2. Load the necessary software on your pen drive.
If you want to use it as a bootable drive, you will need to install a bootable image of an OS (Often Linux) on it.
3-3. Finished.
Tips
If you want to use your pen drive as a hard drive, just get a hard drive instead. It will be cheaper and save you much trouble.
Use a drill press instead of a handheld one to make your job easier.
Use a thick cloth to cover your work area. Anything else will tear easily.
Warnings
If you're under 18, it is a good idea to call in an adult to help you with the cutting and grinding.
Loose drill bits can fly! Exercise caution while drilling.
Wearing thick clothes while working can prevent injury.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:52",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Pen Drive\\n1-1. Protect your work surface.\\nSpread a cloth or a newspaper to avoid leaving marks.\\n1-2. Acquire a flash memory chip.\\nThere are many such chips available. This chip will be the heart of your Pen Drive.\\n1-3. Use a Drill to cut the plastic to the right size, depending on your chip.\\nMake sure that the combined size of both does not exceed the maximum size of a standard USB Connector.\\nIt is a good idea to wear goggles while doing this, as drill bits and flashing can fly.\\n1-4. Align the plastic case and the chip.\\nCut off any excess plastic. Remember to maintain absolute precision.\\n1-5. Glue the plastic to the chip, keeping the chip connector side down, so as not to cover it up.\\nAvoid using normal glue or superglue, this can leave stains on your work area and might mess up the components. Use a glue made to glue plastics together.\\n1-6. Join the two components firmly using a vice, clamp, or just by pressing them together between your palms.\\nBe very careful not to mess up the alignment.\\n1-7. Wait for the glue to dry.\\nLeave your Pen Drive for a while as the glue dries. Keep it under a fan to help it dry faster.\\n2. Decorating and Designing the Pen Drive\\n2-1. Measure the USB connector.\\nLeave a 2 centimeter (0.8 in) gap starting from the front of the pen drive, making sure not to cover the connector. It is better to leave more gap than less gap, as your pen drive may not go in at all if improperly designed.\\n2-2. Draw a rough dividing line, dividing the pen drive into two parts, head and body.\\nThe head of the pen drive is the part that plugs into the computer, whereas the body stays outside and can be decorated. Use the measurement you made in the previous step to facilitate this task.\\n2-3. Remember to only decorate the body.\\nAll the steps below should be applied only to the body of the pen drive.\\n2-4. Encase the pen drive.\\nThis is not necessary, but can go a long way toward protecting your pen drive from mechanical damage. It also makes it look better. This should be done only to the body! Follow the steps below to encase the pen drive:\\nLay the pen drive on your work surface, and measure its dimensions.\\nDrill a hole of the dimensions of the pen drive into a slab of plastic.\\nCut out any excess plastic, leaving a border around the hole.\\nPlace the pen drive in the hole and use some glue to lock it in place, if necessary.\\n2-5. Paint the pen drive in your favourite colours.\\n\\n2-6. Decorate it!\\nThis is up to your imagination. Here are some ideas:\\nPut the pen drive in a 3D case\\nAdd a tag or a hole to it to use it as a keychain.\\nAdd some papier mache, or glitter.\\n3. Setting Up the Pen Drive\\n3-1. Decide what you want to use the pen drive for.\\nPen drives have a wide variety of uses, and some of them are given below:\\nBootable OS Drive\\nSimple Flash Memory Drive\\nPortable App Drive\\nSystem Restore Drive\\nRam Drive\\nEncrypted Data Drive\\nSystem Unlock Key\\n3-2. Load the necessary software on your pen drive.\\nIf you want to use it as a bootable drive, you will need to install a bootable image of an OS (Often Linux) on it.\\n3-3. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nIf you want to use your pen drive as a hard drive, just get a hard drive instead. It will be cheaper and save you much trouble.\\nUse a drill press instead of a handheld one to make your job easier.\\nUse a thick cloth to cover your work area. Anything else will tear easily.\\nWarnings\\nIf you're under 18, it is a good idea to call in an adult to help you with the cutting and grinding.\\nLoose drill bits can fly! Exercise caution while drilling.\\nWearing thick clothes while working can prevent injury.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pen Drives are used all over the world, and they have a wide variety of uses. While you can buy a Pen Drive on the cheap these days, building it yourself can save you some money, and allow you to customize it to your liking. This article will teach you how to build a pen drive.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Pen Drive\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Protect your work surface.\", \"描述\": \"Spread a cloth or a newspaper to avoid leaving marks.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Acquire a flash memory chip.\", \"描述\": \"There are many such chips available. This chip will be the heart of your Pen Drive.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a Drill to cut the plastic to the right size, depending on your chip.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the combined size of both does not exceed the maximum size of a standard USB Connector.\\nIt is a good idea to wear goggles while doing this, as drill bits and flashing can fly.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Align the plastic case and the chip.\", \"描述\": \"Cut off any excess plastic. Remember to maintain absolute precision.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Glue the plastic to the chip, keeping the chip connector side down, so as not to cover it up.\", \"描述\": \"Avoid using normal glue or superglue, this can leave stains on your work area and might mess up the components. Use a glue made to glue plastics together.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Join the two components firmly using a vice, clamp, or just by pressing them together between your palms.\", \"描述\": \"Be very careful not to mess up the alignment.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Wait for the glue to dry.\", \"描述\": \"Leave your Pen Drive for a while as the glue dries. Keep it under a fan to help it dry faster.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decorating and Designing the Pen Drive\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the USB connector.\", \"描述\": \"Leave a 2 centimeter (0.8 in) gap starting from the front of the pen drive, making sure not to cover the connector. It is better to leave more gap than less gap, as your pen drive may not go in at all if improperly designed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Draw a rough dividing line, dividing the pen drive into two parts, head and body.\", \"描述\": \"The head of the pen drive is the part that plugs into the computer, whereas the body stays outside and can be decorated. Use the measurement you made in the previous step to facilitate this task.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remember to only decorate the body.\", \"描述\": \"All the steps below should be applied only to the body of the pen drive.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Encase the pen drive.\", \"描述\": \"This is not necessary, but can go a long way toward protecting your pen drive from mechanical damage. It also makes it look better. This should be done only to the body! Follow the steps below to encase the pen drive:\\nLay the pen drive on your work surface, and measure its dimensions.\\nDrill a hole of the dimensions of the pen drive into a slab of plastic.\\nCut out any excess plastic, leaving a border around the hole.\\nPlace the pen drive in the hole and use some glue to lock it in place, if necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Paint the pen drive in your favourite colours.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decorate it!\", \"描述\": \"This is up to your imagination. Here are some ideas:\\nPut the pen drive in a 3D case\\nAdd a tag or a hole to it to use it as a keychain.\\nAdd some papier mache, or glitter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Setting Up the Pen Drive\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide what you want to use the pen drive for.\", \"描述\": \"Pen drives have a wide variety of uses, and some of them are given below:\\nBootable OS Drive\\nSimple Flash Memory Drive\\nPortable App Drive\\nSystem Restore Drive\\nRam Drive\\nEncrypted Data Drive\\nSystem Unlock Key\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Load the necessary software on your pen drive.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to use it as a bootable drive, you will need to install a bootable image of an OS (Often Linux) on it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you want to use your pen drive as a hard drive, just get a hard drive instead. It will be cheaper and save you much trouble.\\n\", \"Use a drill press instead of a handheld one to make your job easier.\\n\", \"Use a thick cloth to cover your work area. Anything else will tear easily.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you're under 18, it is a good idea to call in an adult to help you with the cutting and grinding.\\n\", \"Loose drill bits can fly! Exercise caution while drilling.\\n\", \"Wearing thick clothes while working can prevent injury.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,456 |
How to Build a Pen Gun
|
1. Making a Gun from a Retractable Pen
1-1. Unscrew a retractable pen to take it apart.
Use a pen that easily screws apart with a plunger, or click mechanism, at the top. Separate the top section with the plunger, tube, spring, and ink cartridge. Press down on the plunger to remove the small plastic piece inside the top section. Set all the pieces aside to use later on.
The ink cartridge is the long white or clear tube in the middle of the pen.
1-2. Pinch the bottom of the top section with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Take the piece of the pen with the plunger on it and use your needle-nose pliers to bend the tube inwards to make the opening smaller. Pinch the opening in at least 4 places around the pen.
Don’t bend the area with the screw threading, or else you won’t be able to put your pen gun back together.
1-3. Put the spring and the small plastic piece back into the top piece.
Hold the top piece upside-down so the pinched end it facing up. Push the pen’s spring into the top first, then feed the small plastic piece you removed earlier into the middle of the spring. Push the piece down until it is stuck in the tube.
The bent edges on the tube should hold the plastic piece in place. If not, go back with your pliers and bend the edges further.
1-4. Screw the pen back together.
Reattach the main tube back onto the top piece. Leave the ink cartridge out since you will load it into the pen later as your ammunition.
1-5. Feed the ink cartridge into the end of the pen.
Hold the pen upside-down, and put the ink cartridge into the pen through the hole at the tip. Make sure the back of the ink cartridge is touching the plastic piece inside the top section. Don’t tip the pen rightside-up or else the cartridge will fall out before you shoot it.
If the ink cartridge doesn’t fit through the tip, remove the pen tip from the tube by unscrewing it or pulling it off with a pair of pliers.
1-6. Press down on the plunger to shoot the cartridge.
Hold the pen gun sideways so the tip points in the direction you want to shoot. Press firmly on the plunger at the end of the pen to shoot the cartridge out.
Only point the pen gun at a target. Avoid shooting any person or animal since you could cause them harm.
Reset the gun by pushing the plastic piece back into the top section and reloading the ink cartridge.
2. Using a Rubber Band with Any Pen
2-1. Take the ink cartridge out of the pen and put it back together.
Unscrew the pen to pull out the cartridge if it has threading in the middle. Otherwise, use needle-nose pliers to pull the end and tip out from the main tube. Set the ink cartridge aside before screwing the pen back together again or popping the pieces back into place. Make sure the pen tube is open at both ends.
Any pen will work when you use a rubber band.
2-2. Cut the pen tip with scissors so it’s slightly wider than your ink cartridge.
Put the tip of the pen between the blades and squeeze the scissors shut. Aim to remove at least ⁄4 inch (6.4 mm) from the end of the pen if you only plan on shooting the ink cartridge.
Only try to cut the tip if the pen is made of plastic.
Use a utility knife if the scissors don’t cut through the pen tip.
2-3. Drill a hole through the remaining part of the tip.
Use a small drill bit between ⁄8–⁄4 inch (3.2–6.4 mm) wide to make the hole ⁄4 inch (19 mm) from the end of the tip. Drill through both sides of the pen using a slow speed so you don’t crack the pen.
2-4. Feed a rubber band through the drill holes and knot it.
Pinch the end of the rubber band and push it through one of the holes you drilled. Pull the rubber band through the second hole until you have the same length on both sides. Feed one end of the band through the loop of the other and pull it tight to secure it.
If you have trouble feeding the rubber band through the holes, bend a paperclip into a hook and use it to guide the band.
2-5. Set the ink cartridge in the loop of the rubber band and pull it back.
Pinch the plastic end of the ink cartridge in the middle of the rubber band loop. Stretch the rubber band towards the back of the pen until the tip of the cartridge can be fed into the tube. Keep holding onto the ink cartridge and rubber band while you take aim.
2-6. Let go of the cartridge to fire it.
Once the ink is in the tube, release the rubber band and cartridge to shoot it out of the pen. If you want to shoot it again, collect the ink cartridge and reload the pen.
Avoid aiming the gun at a person or animal since you could cause them harm.
Warnings
Don’t aim the pen gun at anyone’s face or head since it could cause serious eye damage.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:52",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Gun from a Retractable Pen\\n1-1. Unscrew a retractable pen to take it apart.\\nUse a pen that easily screws apart with a plunger, or click mechanism, at the top. Separate the top section with the plunger, tube, spring, and ink cartridge. Press down on the plunger to remove the small plastic piece inside the top section. Set all the pieces aside to use later on.\\nThe ink cartridge is the long white or clear tube in the middle of the pen.\\n1-2. Pinch the bottom of the top section with a pair of needle-nose pliers.\\nTake the piece of the pen with the plunger on it and use your needle-nose pliers to bend the tube inwards to make the opening smaller. Pinch the opening in at least 4 places around the pen.\\nDon’t bend the area with the screw threading, or else you won’t be able to put your pen gun back together.\\n1-3. Put the spring and the small plastic piece back into the top piece.\\nHold the top piece upside-down so the pinched end it facing up. Push the pen’s spring into the top first, then feed the small plastic piece you removed earlier into the middle of the spring. Push the piece down until it is stuck in the tube.\\nThe bent edges on the tube should hold the plastic piece in place. If not, go back with your pliers and bend the edges further.\\n1-4. Screw the pen back together.\\nReattach the main tube back onto the top piece. Leave the ink cartridge out since you will load it into the pen later as your ammunition.\\n1-5. Feed the ink cartridge into the end of the pen.\\nHold the pen upside-down, and put the ink cartridge into the pen through the hole at the tip. Make sure the back of the ink cartridge is touching the plastic piece inside the top section. Don’t tip the pen rightside-up or else the cartridge will fall out before you shoot it.\\nIf the ink cartridge doesn’t fit through the tip, remove the pen tip from the tube by unscrewing it or pulling it off with a pair of pliers.\\n1-6. Press down on the plunger to shoot the cartridge.\\nHold the pen gun sideways so the tip points in the direction you want to shoot. Press firmly on the plunger at the end of the pen to shoot the cartridge out.\\nOnly point the pen gun at a target. Avoid shooting any person or animal since you could cause them harm.\\nReset the gun by pushing the plastic piece back into the top section and reloading the ink cartridge.\\n2. Using a Rubber Band with Any Pen\\n2-1. Take the ink cartridge out of the pen and put it back together.\\nUnscrew the pen to pull out the cartridge if it has threading in the middle. Otherwise, use needle-nose pliers to pull the end and tip out from the main tube. Set the ink cartridge aside before screwing the pen back together again or popping the pieces back into place. Make sure the pen tube is open at both ends.\\nAny pen will work when you use a rubber band.\\n2-2. Cut the pen tip with scissors so it’s slightly wider than your ink cartridge.\\nPut the tip of the pen between the blades and squeeze the scissors shut. Aim to remove at least ⁄4 inch (6.4 mm) from the end of the pen if you only plan on shooting the ink cartridge.\\nOnly try to cut the tip if the pen is made of plastic.\\nUse a utility knife if the scissors don’t cut through the pen tip.\\n2-3. Drill a hole through the remaining part of the tip.\\nUse a small drill bit between ⁄8–⁄4 inch (3.2–6.4 mm) wide to make the hole ⁄4 inch (19 mm) from the end of the tip. Drill through both sides of the pen using a slow speed so you don’t crack the pen.\\n2-4. Feed a rubber band through the drill holes and knot it.\\nPinch the end of the rubber band and push it through one of the holes you drilled. Pull the rubber band through the second hole until you have the same length on both sides. Feed one end of the band through the loop of the other and pull it tight to secure it.\\nIf you have trouble feeding the rubber band through the holes, bend a paperclip into a hook and use it to guide the band.\\n2-5. Set the ink cartridge in the loop of the rubber band and pull it back.\\nPinch the plastic end of the ink cartridge in the middle of the rubber band loop. Stretch the rubber band towards the back of the pen until the tip of the cartridge can be fed into the tube. Keep holding onto the ink cartridge and rubber band while you take aim.\\n2-6. Let go of the cartridge to fire it.\\nOnce the ink is in the tube, release the rubber band and cartridge to shoot it out of the pen. If you want to shoot it again, collect the ink cartridge and reload the pen.\\nAvoid aiming the gun at a person or animal since you could cause them harm.\\nWarnings\\nDon’t aim the pen gun at anyone’s face or head since it could cause serious eye damage.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pen guns fire small projectiles using either the built-in spring or a rubber band and make great improvised weapons that can fit in your pocket. While pen guns don’t fire actual bullets, you can still use them to shoot the ink cartridge tube. With a few simple tools you can find around your home, you can make one all by yourself in a short amount of time!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Gun from a Retractable Pen\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Unscrew a retractable pen to take it apart.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pen that easily screws apart with a plunger, or click mechanism, at the top. Separate the top section with the plunger, tube, spring, and ink cartridge. Press down on the plunger to remove the small plastic piece inside the top section. Set all the pieces aside to use later on.\\nThe ink cartridge is the long white or clear tube in the middle of the pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pinch the bottom of the top section with a pair of needle-nose pliers.\", \"描述\": \"Take the piece of the pen with the plunger on it and use your needle-nose pliers to bend the tube inwards to make the opening smaller. Pinch the opening in at least 4 places around the pen.\\nDon’t bend the area with the screw threading, or else you won’t be able to put your pen gun back together.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put the spring and the small plastic piece back into the top piece.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the top piece upside-down so the pinched end it facing up. Push the pen’s spring into the top first, then feed the small plastic piece you removed earlier into the middle of the spring. Push the piece down until it is stuck in the tube.\\nThe bent edges on the tube should hold the plastic piece in place. If not, go back with your pliers and bend the edges further.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw the pen back together.\", \"描述\": \"Reattach the main tube back onto the top piece. Leave the ink cartridge out since you will load it into the pen later as your ammunition.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Feed the ink cartridge into the end of the pen.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the pen upside-down, and put the ink cartridge into the pen through the hole at the tip. Make sure the back of the ink cartridge is touching the plastic piece inside the top section. Don’t tip the pen rightside-up or else the cartridge will fall out before you shoot it.\\nIf the ink cartridge doesn’t fit through the tip, remove the pen tip from the tube by unscrewing it or pulling it off with a pair of pliers.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Press down on the plunger to shoot the cartridge.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the pen gun sideways so the tip points in the direction you want to shoot. Press firmly on the plunger at the end of the pen to shoot the cartridge out.\\nOnly point the pen gun at a target. Avoid shooting any person or animal since you could cause them harm.\\nReset the gun by pushing the plastic piece back into the top section and reloading the ink cartridge.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using a Rubber Band with Any Pen\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take the ink cartridge out of the pen and put it back together.\", \"描述\": \"Unscrew the pen to pull out the cartridge if it has threading in the middle. Otherwise, use needle-nose pliers to pull the end and tip out from the main tube. Set the ink cartridge aside before screwing the pen back together again or popping the pieces back into place. Make sure the pen tube is open at both ends.\\nAny pen will work when you use a rubber band.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the pen tip with scissors so it’s slightly wider than your ink cartridge.\", \"描述\": \"Put the tip of the pen between the blades and squeeze the scissors shut. Aim to remove at least ⁄4 inch (6.4 mm) from the end of the pen if you only plan on shooting the ink cartridge.\\nOnly try to cut the tip if the pen is made of plastic.\\nUse a utility knife if the scissors don’t cut through the pen tip.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole through the remaining part of the tip.\", \"描述\": \"Use a small drill bit between ⁄8–⁄4 inch (3.2–6.4 mm) wide to make the hole ⁄4 inch (19 mm) from the end of the tip. Drill through both sides of the pen using a slow speed so you don’t crack the pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Feed a rubber band through the drill holes and knot it.\", \"描述\": \"Pinch the end of the rubber band and push it through one of the holes you drilled. Pull the rubber band through the second hole until you have the same length on both sides. Feed one end of the band through the loop of the other and pull it tight to secure it.\\nIf you have trouble feeding the rubber band through the holes, bend a paperclip into a hook and use it to guide the band.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Set the ink cartridge in the loop of the rubber band and pull it back.\", \"描述\": \"Pinch the plastic end of the ink cartridge in the middle of the rubber band loop. Stretch the rubber band towards the back of the pen until the tip of the cartridge can be fed into the tube. Keep holding onto the ink cartridge and rubber band while you take aim.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Let go of the cartridge to fire it.\", \"描述\": \"Once the ink is in the tube, release the rubber band and cartridge to shoot it out of the pen. If you want to shoot it again, collect the ink cartridge and reload the pen.\\nAvoid aiming the gun at a person or animal since you could cause them harm.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Don’t aim the pen gun at anyone’s face or head since it could cause serious eye damage.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,457 |
How to Build a Perfect Pokémon
|
1. Design Your Pokémon
1-1. Choose a species.
A perfect Pokémon can be from species. If you choose Weedle, then you will train the best Weedle the world has ever known! Choose a Pokémon that you enjoy using. Note that it can be astronomically difficult to find Pokémon with perfect IVs if they can not be bred. Take this into consideration before choosing a species.
1-2. Design a move-set.
Find a list of moves your species can learn. Plan what role this Pokémon will play and choose the best moves for the job. Consider your species' base stats and type. If you have high special attack consider using special moves even if they have lower base power than physical attacks. Attacks with the same type as the species get a 50% power boost. Egg moves are moves that can only be learned through breeding. Other moves can not be learned if you evolve too soon or too late. Plan how and when your Pokémon will learn each move.
1-3. Choose a held item.
Chose an item that will augment your Pokémon's strengths or cover its vulnerabilities. Choice Band, Leftovers, and Bright Powder are examples of powerful held items.
1-4. Choose an ability.
Most Pokémon have two or three possible abilities. Hidden abilities are difficult or, in some cases, impossible to find, but they are inherited easily. Choose one that jives with your Pokémon's role.
1-5. Plan your individual values (IVs).
You may have noticed that each Pokémon has different stats, even if it is the same type and has the same nature. This is because of some invisible numbers called Individual Values. Each Pokémon has an IV statistic associated with each battle stat (HP, Attack Defense etc.). IVs are determined when a Pokémon is caught or hatched and will . IVs range from 0 (weakest) to 31 (perfect). Generally, you will want all of your IVs to be 31, but sometimes this is not necessary. For instance you will not need perfect special attack IVs on a Pokémon that doesn't know special attacks. The best way to get perfect IVs is to breed Pokémon that you already know has some good IVs. You can find out what your IVs are by speaking to a stats judge NPC and/or using an IV calculator.
1-6. Plan your effort values (EVs).
EVs are invisible stats just like IVs. However EVs can be changed. EVs all start at 0. EVs are earned by knocking out Pokémon, Super Training or Poké Pelago. Each Pokémon may earn up to 510 total EVs and no more than 252 EVs in a single stat. Put more EVs into the stats that your Pokémon will need most. An extreme example of an all-out sweeper spread would be 252 speed EVs, 252 attack EVs, and 4 special attack EVs.
1-7. Choose a nature.
Your nature will usually raise one stat and lower another. However, there are neutral stats that do nothing. To choose a nature, pick your Pokémon's most important stat and least important stat then look up which nature will raise and lower the desired stats.
1-8. Design your Pokémon to the last detail.
Perfection isn't just about beating your opponents. It's about defeating them with style! Just imagine that male shiny Mega Gengar in a Premier Ball named King Boo!
Choose a cool Pokéball to contain all your perfection-ness. (Master Balls and Cherish Balls can't be inherited)
Jot down a perfect nickname for your Pokémon!
Pick a gender to match your nickname. It might not be super practical to be picky about gender, especially if you're going for a shiny with perfect IVs. But would it truly be perfect if you don't get the gender you want?
Decide if it should be shiny. Some shiny Pokémon don't look as good as their mundane counterparts.
2. Produce the Perfect Egg
2-1. Prepare a secondary Pokémon game cartridge to produce the egg.
You should breed your perfect egg on a secondary game cartridge so that your Pokémon will have a lifelong bonus of 50% more experience when traded to the cartridge you intend to use it on. For a perfect exp bonus of 70% more, you need to use a Pokémon game from a foreign language as your secondary game.
2-2. Prepare two parent Pokémon to Breed for desired traits.
Pokémon can inherit traits from their parents. Therefore, it is important to choose suitable parents. The mother of a Pokémon is called a dam and the father is called a sire. Note that there are slightly different inheritance rules when breeding with Ditto.
The dam must have the correct species and Pokéball.
The ideal dam will have the desired nature and ability, .
The sire must know all desired egg moves.
2-3. IV breed.
Produce eggs until you hatch the perfect Pokémon you designed. You'll have to check each hatching's IVs If one of the hatchlings would be a better sire/dam than your current sire/dam, put the superior hatchling into the daycare in place of its parent. Inbreeding at its finest!
2-4. Give the parents items to speed up the process.
The following items can help you influence what traits are inherited:
Everstone: When given to the dam, there is a 50% chance of passing on its nature.
Destiny Knot: When held by a parent, it ensures that five stats will be passed from either parent to the egg instead of the usual three.
EV enhancing items: a power weight, power bracer, power belt, etc. Will ensure that the IV of the stat associated with that item will be passed on to the egg. This does not increase the number of stats inherited.
2-5. Use the Masuda Method.
This is important if you want a shiny Pokémon. To use the Masuda Method, make sure the parents have different languages of origin. Example: one parent is from an English Pokémon game and the other is from a German game. This will greatly increase your chances of getting a shiny to about 1 in 682. Note that the everstone does not work while the Masuda Method is invoked.
2-6. Acquire a Shiny Charm.
The Shiny Charm is a highly coveted key item that doubles the chance of encountering a shiny Pokémon. Combined with the Masuda Method, you would have a 1 in 341 chance of a shiny per egg. The Shiny Charm is acquired by completing the National Pokédex (or Alola Pokédex excluding mythical Pokémon). This is very difficult to accomplish.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/7\/71\/Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/7\/71\/Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg\/aid135858-v4-728px-Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fair_use\">Fair Use<\/a> (screenshot)<br>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
3. Train the Perfect Pokémon
3-1. Infect your Pokémon with the D strain of Pokérus.
Pokérus is an extremely rare beneficial virus found on about 1 in every 21,845 wild. The D strain in particular is only found on 1 in every 87,381 wild Pokémon. Pokérus doubles all EV yields. Catch a Pokémon with Pokérus or trade for an infected Pokémon. When that Pokémon is in your party, it will spread to the others in your party. The virus can die if it's host is in the party when midnight passes, so store infected Pokémon in the PC at night. After a Pokémon has been cured, it can not be infected again or spread to other Pokémon but retains the benefits. Once you have Pokérus experiment on an unimportant Pokémon in your party. Record how many mid-nights pass before the virus dies off. If it lasts until the fourth midnight, it is the D strain. Infect your perfect Pokémon with this perfect virus. Never let your perfect Pokémon fight it off. Don't taint your perfect Pokémon with an inferior A, B, or C strain of Pokérus.
3-2. EV train.
Get all stats up with Vitamins such as Protein. Don't feed it what it doesn't need. Doing so will give a Pokémon 10 EV points in that stat, until it reaches 100 EVs, which is the highest you can reach with medicine. This is where EV-TRAINING plays a part! EVs, or Effort Values, are stat modifiers that improves different stats depending on which Pokémon you defeat in battle. For instance, a Pidgey gives a +1 EV point to Speed, whilst a Staraptor gives +3 EV points to Attack. Every 4 EVs in a particular stat is equal to 1 point in that stat. Also, every Pokémon is capable of having a maximum of 510 EVs with a maximum of 255 EVs in any one stat. Since neither 510 nor 255 are divisible by four, having 252 EVs in one stat is the most beneficial to you. Use this for your benefit, and train the stats you'd like to increase against Pokémon that gives the correct EVs.
3-3. Search for Pokémon that yield desired EVs.
- Flying-types are usually fast (Speed), Rock-types are sturdy (Defense) etc. A Pokémon that hasn't evolved, or a Pokémon that doesn't evolve at all, gives 1 EV point. A 1rst stage evolution Pokémon gives 2 EV points, and a 2nd stage evolution Pokémon gives 3 EV points, along with legendary Pokémon. Items like a Macho Brace double the EVs earned in battle, and the elusive Pokerus, should you be so lucky to ever experience it, doubles EV gain too.
3-4. Teach it the moves.
Know its weaknesses and teach it moves that can be used to hit Super Effective on the other Pokémon. Try to teach super tough moves like Earthquake. Teach moves that suit the Pokémon. Note that if an attacking move is used by a Pokémon of the same type, it will be significantly more powerful, thanks to Same Type Effect Bonus (STAB), which can be useful.
3-5. Use one PP Max on each move.
3-6. Level up to level 100.
Simple and straight forward. Depending on which game you are playing, you may not want to use Rare Candies all the way to level 100; if you do, it might lose the possibility to gain EVs. That is 126 stat points lost at lvl 100. If you want to be safe, make sure you have finished EV training it until you finish leveling it to lvl 100 (normally, since a lot of battling is required to reach lvl 100 without Rare Candy-ing it, these will fill completely up by themselves).
3-7. Give your Pokémon the held item you chose.
4. Perfect your Pokémon
4-1. Develop your friendship.
In each game, there is an NPC that can tell you if your friendship is perfect or not. If you don't have a perfect friendship, walk around with it in your party, give it a massage, feed it special berries etc. You can earn a ribbon for developing a perfect relationship with your Pokémon.
4-2. Develop Affection.
In Generation VI onward, affection can be gained by playing with your Pokémon, petting your Pokémon and feeding your Pokémon via Pokémon Amie. When your Pokémon is affectionate, it will behave differently in battle. Sometimes, it will even shrug off a status effect or avoid being knocked out for it's trainer.
4-3. Earn all possible ribbons.
Some are easier to get, some are hard, some are impossible. You're perfect Pokémon deserves to be as decorated as possible.
4-4. Crown your Pokémon with the Leaf Crown.
In Heart Gold and Soul Silver, your Pokémon can find rare shiny leaves when it follows you through certain routes. Collect all five to award your perfect Pokémon a glorious crown.
Tips
Try catching a Chansey or obtain an item called lucky egg. The Lucky egg is a held item that increase EXP from battles and Chansey has it usually as a held item if you catch it in the wild (Safari Zone - FR&LG)
If the Pokémon is able to learn moves like Thunder, Fire Blast, Blizzard, Frenzy Plant, Hydro Cannon, or any move with attack power 120 or higher, that helps, but they frequently miss and have low PP. It is recommended you teach Thunderbolt, Flamethrower, or Ice Beam for the elementals.
If you have maxed out a Pokémon's level and still want to EV train it, in R/B/Y and G/S/C, you can use the Box Trick. This consists of storing your Pokémon in the computer storage system and retrieving it, which will give you the stat boosts. In B/W and B/W2, EVs are applied as you gain them, eliminating the issue entirely.
Warnings
Don't play with Pokémon you don't like. Pokémon should be fun.
These instructions are general for all generations. Because of this there will be generation specific nuances especially with breeding. For instance, Pokéballs are not inherited in generation III. You may want to research the mechanics of your specific generation.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:52",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Design Your Pokémon\\n1-1. Choose a species.\\nA perfect Pokémon can be from species. If you choose Weedle, then you will train the best Weedle the world has ever known! Choose a Pokémon that you enjoy using. Note that it can be astronomically difficult to find Pokémon with perfect IVs if they can not be bred. Take this into consideration before choosing a species.\\n1-2. Design a move-set.\\nFind a list of moves your species can learn. Plan what role this Pokémon will play and choose the best moves for the job. Consider your species' base stats and type. If you have high special attack consider using special moves even if they have lower base power than physical attacks. Attacks with the same type as the species get a 50% power boost. Egg moves are moves that can only be learned through breeding. Other moves can not be learned if you evolve too soon or too late. Plan how and when your Pokémon will learn each move.\\n1-3. Choose a held item.\\nChose an item that will augment your Pokémon's strengths or cover its vulnerabilities. Choice Band, Leftovers, and Bright Powder are examples of powerful held items.\\n1-4. Choose an ability.\\nMost Pokémon have two or three possible abilities. Hidden abilities are difficult or, in some cases, impossible to find, but they are inherited easily. Choose one that jives with your Pokémon's role.\\n1-5. Plan your individual values (IVs).\\nYou may have noticed that each Pokémon has different stats, even if it is the same type and has the same nature. This is because of some invisible numbers called Individual Values. Each Pokémon has an IV statistic associated with each battle stat (HP, Attack Defense etc.). IVs are determined when a Pokémon is caught or hatched and will . IVs range from 0 (weakest) to 31 (perfect). Generally, you will want all of your IVs to be 31, but sometimes this is not necessary. For instance you will not need perfect special attack IVs on a Pokémon that doesn't know special attacks. The best way to get perfect IVs is to breed Pokémon that you already know has some good IVs. You can find out what your IVs are by speaking to a stats judge NPC and/or using an IV calculator.\\n1-6. Plan your effort values (EVs).\\nEVs are invisible stats just like IVs. However EVs can be changed. EVs all start at 0. EVs are earned by knocking out Pokémon, Super Training or Poké Pelago. Each Pokémon may earn up to 510 total EVs and no more than 252 EVs in a single stat. Put more EVs into the stats that your Pokémon will need most. An extreme example of an all-out sweeper spread would be 252 speed EVs, 252 attack EVs, and 4 special attack EVs.\\n1-7. Choose a nature.\\nYour nature will usually raise one stat and lower another. However, there are neutral stats that do nothing. To choose a nature, pick your Pokémon's most important stat and least important stat then look up which nature will raise and lower the desired stats.\\n1-8. Design your Pokémon to the last detail.\\nPerfection isn't just about beating your opponents. It's about defeating them with style! Just imagine that male shiny Mega Gengar in a Premier Ball named King Boo!\\nChoose a cool Pokéball to contain all your perfection-ness. (Master Balls and Cherish Balls can't be inherited)\\nJot down a perfect nickname for your Pokémon!\\nPick a gender to match your nickname. It might not be super practical to be picky about gender, especially if you're going for a shiny with perfect IVs. But would it truly be perfect if you don't get the gender you want?\\nDecide if it should be shiny. Some shiny Pokémon don't look as good as their mundane counterparts.\\n2. Produce the Perfect Egg\\n2-1. Prepare a secondary Pokémon game cartridge to produce the egg.\\nYou should breed your perfect egg on a secondary game cartridge so that your Pokémon will have a lifelong bonus of 50% more experience when traded to the cartridge you intend to use it on. For a perfect exp bonus of 70% more, you need to use a Pokémon game from a foreign language as your secondary game.\\n2-2. Prepare two parent Pokémon to Breed for desired traits.\\nPokémon can inherit traits from their parents. Therefore, it is important to choose suitable parents. The mother of a Pokémon is called a dam and the father is called a sire. Note that there are slightly different inheritance rules when breeding with Ditto.\\nThe dam must have the correct species and Pokéball.\\nThe ideal dam will have the desired nature and ability, .\\nThe sire must know all desired egg moves.\\n2-3. IV breed.\\nProduce eggs until you hatch the perfect Pokémon you designed. You'll have to check each hatching's IVs If one of the hatchlings would be a better sire/dam than your current sire/dam, put the superior hatchling into the daycare in place of its parent. Inbreeding at its finest!\\n2-4. Give the parents items to speed up the process.\\nThe following items can help you influence what traits are inherited:\\nEverstone: When given to the dam, there is a 50% chance of passing on its nature.\\nDestiny Knot: When held by a parent, it ensures that five stats will be passed from either parent to the egg instead of the usual three.\\nEV enhancing items: a power weight, power bracer, power belt, etc. Will ensure that the IV of the stat associated with that item will be passed on to the egg. This does not increase the number of stats inherited.\\n2-5. Use the Masuda Method.\\nThis is important if you want a shiny Pokémon. To use the Masuda Method, make sure the parents have different languages of origin. Example: one parent is from an English Pokémon game and the other is from a German game. This will greatly increase your chances of getting a shiny to about 1 in 682. Note that the everstone does not work while the Masuda Method is invoked.\\n2-6. Acquire a Shiny Charm.\\nThe Shiny Charm is a highly coveted key item that doubles the chance of encountering a shiny Pokémon. Combined with the Masuda Method, you would have a 1 in 341 chance of a shiny per egg. The Shiny Charm is acquired by completing the National Pokédex (or Alola Pokédex excluding mythical Pokémon). This is very difficult to accomplish.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/71\\\\/Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/71\\\\/Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid135858-v4-728px-Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n3. Train the Perfect Pokémon\\n3-1. Infect your Pokémon with the D strain of Pokérus.\\nPokérus is an extremely rare beneficial virus found on about 1 in every 21,845 wild. The D strain in particular is only found on 1 in every 87,381 wild Pokémon. Pokérus doubles all EV yields. Catch a Pokémon with Pokérus or trade for an infected Pokémon. When that Pokémon is in your party, it will spread to the others in your party. The virus can die if it's host is in the party when midnight passes, so store infected Pokémon in the PC at night. After a Pokémon has been cured, it can not be infected again or spread to other Pokémon but retains the benefits. Once you have Pokérus experiment on an unimportant Pokémon in your party. Record how many mid-nights pass before the virus dies off. If it lasts until the fourth midnight, it is the D strain. Infect your perfect Pokémon with this perfect virus. Never let your perfect Pokémon fight it off. Don't taint your perfect Pokémon with an inferior A, B, or C strain of Pokérus.\\n3-2. EV train.\\nGet all stats up with Vitamins such as Protein. Don't feed it what it doesn't need. Doing so will give a Pokémon 10 EV points in that stat, until it reaches 100 EVs, which is the highest you can reach with medicine. This is where EV-TRAINING plays a part! EVs, or Effort Values, are stat modifiers that improves different stats depending on which Pokémon you defeat in battle. For instance, a Pidgey gives a +1 EV point to Speed, whilst a Staraptor gives +3 EV points to Attack. Every 4 EVs in a particular stat is equal to 1 point in that stat. Also, every Pokémon is capable of having a maximum of 510 EVs with a maximum of 255 EVs in any one stat. Since neither 510 nor 255 are divisible by four, having 252 EVs in one stat is the most beneficial to you. Use this for your benefit, and train the stats you'd like to increase against Pokémon that gives the correct EVs.\\n3-3. Search for Pokémon that yield desired EVs.\\n- Flying-types are usually fast (Speed), Rock-types are sturdy (Defense) etc. A Pokémon that hasn't evolved, or a Pokémon that doesn't evolve at all, gives 1 EV point. A 1rst stage evolution Pokémon gives 2 EV points, and a 2nd stage evolution Pokémon gives 3 EV points, along with legendary Pokémon. Items like a Macho Brace double the EVs earned in battle, and the elusive Pokerus, should you be so lucky to ever experience it, doubles EV gain too.\\n3-4. Teach it the moves.\\nKnow its weaknesses and teach it moves that can be used to hit Super Effective on the other Pokémon. Try to teach super tough moves like Earthquake. Teach moves that suit the Pokémon. Note that if an attacking move is used by a Pokémon of the same type, it will be significantly more powerful, thanks to Same Type Effect Bonus (STAB), which can be useful.\\n3-5. Use one PP Max on each move.\\n\\n3-6. Level up to level 100.\\nSimple and straight forward. Depending on which game you are playing, you may not want to use Rare Candies all the way to level 100; if you do, it might lose the possibility to gain EVs. That is 126 stat points lost at lvl 100. If you want to be safe, make sure you have finished EV training it until you finish leveling it to lvl 100 (normally, since a lot of battling is required to reach lvl 100 without Rare Candy-ing it, these will fill completely up by themselves).\\n3-7. Give your Pokémon the held item you chose.\\n\\n4. Perfect your Pokémon\\n4-1. Develop your friendship.\\nIn each game, there is an NPC that can tell you if your friendship is perfect or not. If you don't have a perfect friendship, walk around with it in your party, give it a massage, feed it special berries etc. You can earn a ribbon for developing a perfect relationship with your Pokémon.\\n4-2. Develop Affection.\\nIn Generation VI onward, affection can be gained by playing with your Pokémon, petting your Pokémon and feeding your Pokémon via Pokémon Amie. When your Pokémon is affectionate, it will behave differently in battle. Sometimes, it will even shrug off a status effect or avoid being knocked out for it's trainer.\\n4-3. Earn all possible ribbons.\\nSome are easier to get, some are hard, some are impossible. You're perfect Pokémon deserves to be as decorated as possible.\\n4-4. Crown your Pokémon with the Leaf Crown.\\nIn Heart Gold and Soul Silver, your Pokémon can find rare shiny leaves when it follows you through certain routes. Collect all five to award your perfect Pokémon a glorious crown.\\nTips\\nTry catching a Chansey or obtain an item called lucky egg. The Lucky egg is a held item that increase EXP from battles and Chansey has it usually as a held item if you catch it in the wild (Safari Zone - FR&LG)\\nIf the Pokémon is able to learn moves like Thunder, Fire Blast, Blizzard, Frenzy Plant, Hydro Cannon, or any move with attack power 120 or higher, that helps, but they frequently miss and have low PP. It is recommended you teach Thunderbolt, Flamethrower, or Ice Beam for the elementals.\\nIf you have maxed out a Pokémon's level and still want to EV train it, in R/B/Y and G/S/C, you can use the Box Trick. This consists of storing your Pokémon in the computer storage system and retrieving it, which will give you the stat boosts. In B/W and B/W2, EVs are applied as you gain them, eliminating the issue entirely.\\nWarnings\\nDon't play with Pokémon you don't like. Pokémon should be fun.\\nThese instructions are general for all generations. Because of this there will be generation specific nuances especially with breeding. For instance, Pokéballs are not inherited in generation III. You may want to research the mechanics of your specific generation.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"For some, Pokémon is about beating the Pokémon Champion. For others, Pokémon is about collecting every kind of creature. For others it's more than winning or collecting. To them, Pokémon is about being a trainer. To be a master trainer, you will need to plan ahead. Envision your Pokémon's potential before it is even born. If you train your Pokémon correctly, you will gain a perfect companion.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Design Your Pokémon\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a species.\", \"描述\": \"A perfect Pokémon can be from species. If you choose Weedle, then you will train the best Weedle the world has ever known! Choose a Pokémon that you enjoy using. Note that it can be astronomically difficult to find Pokémon with perfect IVs if they can not be bred. Take this into consideration before choosing a species.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Design a move-set.\", \"描述\": \"Find a list of moves your species can learn. Plan what role this Pokémon will play and choose the best moves for the job. Consider your species' base stats and type. If you have high special attack consider using special moves even if they have lower base power than physical attacks. Attacks with the same type as the species get a 50% power boost. Egg moves are moves that can only be learned through breeding. Other moves can not be learned if you evolve too soon or too late. Plan how and when your Pokémon will learn each move.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose a held item.\", \"描述\": \"Chose an item that will augment your Pokémon's strengths or cover its vulnerabilities. Choice Band, Leftovers, and Bright Powder are examples of powerful held items.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose an ability.\", \"描述\": \"Most Pokémon have two or three possible abilities. Hidden abilities are difficult or, in some cases, impossible to find, but they are inherited easily. Choose one that jives with your Pokémon's role.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Plan your individual values (IVs).\", \"描述\": \"You may have noticed that each Pokémon has different stats, even if it is the same type and has the same nature. This is because of some invisible numbers called Individual Values. Each Pokémon has an IV statistic associated with each battle stat (HP, Attack Defense etc.). IVs are determined when a Pokémon is caught or hatched and will . IVs range from 0 (weakest) to 31 (perfect). Generally, you will want all of your IVs to be 31, but sometimes this is not necessary. For instance you will not need perfect special attack IVs on a Pokémon that doesn't know special attacks. The best way to get perfect IVs is to breed Pokémon that you already know has some good IVs. You can find out what your IVs are by speaking to a stats judge NPC and/or using an IV calculator.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Plan your effort values (EVs).\", \"描述\": \"EVs are invisible stats just like IVs. However EVs can be changed. EVs all start at 0. EVs are earned by knocking out Pokémon, Super Training or Poké Pelago. Each Pokémon may earn up to 510 total EVs and no more than 252 EVs in a single stat. Put more EVs into the stats that your Pokémon will need most. An extreme example of an all-out sweeper spread would be 252 speed EVs, 252 attack EVs, and 4 special attack EVs.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Choose a nature.\", \"描述\": \"Your nature will usually raise one stat and lower another. However, there are neutral stats that do nothing. To choose a nature, pick your Pokémon's most important stat and least important stat then look up which nature will raise and lower the desired stats.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Design your Pokémon to the last detail.\", \"描述\": \"Perfection isn't just about beating your opponents. It's about defeating them with style! Just imagine that male shiny Mega Gengar in a Premier Ball named King Boo!\\nChoose a cool Pokéball to contain all your perfection-ness. (Master Balls and Cherish Balls can't be inherited)\\nJot down a perfect nickname for your Pokémon!\\nPick a gender to match your nickname. It might not be super practical to be picky about gender, especially if you're going for a shiny with perfect IVs. But would it truly be perfect if you don't get the gender you want?\\nDecide if it should be shiny. Some shiny Pokémon don't look as good as their mundane counterparts.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Produce the Perfect Egg\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare a secondary Pokémon game cartridge to produce the egg.\", \"描述\": \"You should breed your perfect egg on a secondary game cartridge so that your Pokémon will have a lifelong bonus of 50% more experience when traded to the cartridge you intend to use it on. For a perfect exp bonus of 70% more, you need to use a Pokémon game from a foreign language as your secondary game.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare two parent Pokémon to Breed for desired traits.\", \"描述\": \"Pokémon can inherit traits from their parents. Therefore, it is important to choose suitable parents. The mother of a Pokémon is called a dam and the father is called a sire. Note that there are slightly different inheritance rules when breeding with Ditto.\\nThe dam must have the correct species and Pokéball.\\nThe ideal dam will have the desired nature and ability, .\\nThe sire must know all desired egg moves.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"IV breed.\", \"描述\": \"Produce eggs until you hatch the perfect Pokémon you designed. You'll have to check each hatching's IVs If one of the hatchlings would be a better sire/dam than your current sire/dam, put the superior hatchling into the daycare in place of its parent. Inbreeding at its finest!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Give the parents items to speed up the process.\", \"描述\": \"The following items can help you influence what traits are inherited:\\nEverstone: When given to the dam, there is a 50% chance of passing on its nature.\\nDestiny Knot: When held by a parent, it ensures that five stats will be passed from either parent to the egg instead of the usual three.\\nEV enhancing items: a power weight, power bracer, power belt, etc. Will ensure that the IV of the stat associated with that item will be passed on to the egg. This does not increase the number of stats inherited.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use the Masuda Method.\", \"描述\": \"This is important if you want a shiny Pokémon. To use the Masuda Method, make sure the parents have different languages of origin. Example: one parent is from an English Pokémon game and the other is from a German game. This will greatly increase your chances of getting a shiny to about 1 in 682. Note that the everstone does not work while the Masuda Method is invoked.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Acquire a Shiny Charm.\", \"描述\": \"The Shiny Charm is a highly coveted key item that doubles the chance of encountering a shiny Pokémon. Combined with the Masuda Method, you would have a 1 in 341 chance of a shiny per egg. The Shiny Charm is acquired by completing the National Pokédex (or Alola Pokédex excluding mythical Pokémon). This is very difficult to accomplish.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/71\\\\/Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/71\\\\/Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid135858-v4-728px-Build-a-Perfect-Pok%C3%A9mon-Step-14-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Train the Perfect Pokémon\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Infect your Pokémon with the D strain of Pokérus.\", \"描述\": \"Pokérus is an extremely rare beneficial virus found on about 1 in every 21,845 wild. The D strain in particular is only found on 1 in every 87,381 wild Pokémon. Pokérus doubles all EV yields. Catch a Pokémon with Pokérus or trade for an infected Pokémon. When that Pokémon is in your party, it will spread to the others in your party. The virus can die if it's host is in the party when midnight passes, so store infected Pokémon in the PC at night. After a Pokémon has been cured, it can not be infected again or spread to other Pokémon but retains the benefits. Once you have Pokérus experiment on an unimportant Pokémon in your party. Record how many mid-nights pass before the virus dies off. If it lasts until the fourth midnight, it is the D strain. Infect your perfect Pokémon with this perfect virus. Never let your perfect Pokémon fight it off. Don't taint your perfect Pokémon with an inferior A, B, or C strain of Pokérus.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"EV train.\", \"描述\": \"Get all stats up with Vitamins such as Protein. Don't feed it what it doesn't need. Doing so will give a Pokémon 10 EV points in that stat, until it reaches 100 EVs, which is the highest you can reach with medicine. This is where EV-TRAINING plays a part! EVs, or Effort Values, are stat modifiers that improves different stats depending on which Pokémon you defeat in battle. For instance, a Pidgey gives a +1 EV point to Speed, whilst a Staraptor gives +3 EV points to Attack. Every 4 EVs in a particular stat is equal to 1 point in that stat. Also, every Pokémon is capable of having a maximum of 510 EVs with a maximum of 255 EVs in any one stat. Since neither 510 nor 255 are divisible by four, having 252 EVs in one stat is the most beneficial to you. Use this for your benefit, and train the stats you'd like to increase against Pokémon that gives the correct EVs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Search for Pokémon that yield desired EVs.\", \"描述\": \"- Flying-types are usually fast (Speed), Rock-types are sturdy (Defense) etc. A Pokémon that hasn't evolved, or a Pokémon that doesn't evolve at all, gives 1 EV point. A 1rst stage evolution Pokémon gives 2 EV points, and a 2nd stage evolution Pokémon gives 3 EV points, along with legendary Pokémon. Items like a Macho Brace double the EVs earned in battle, and the elusive Pokerus, should you be so lucky to ever experience it, doubles EV gain too.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Teach it the moves.\", \"描述\": \"Know its weaknesses and teach it moves that can be used to hit Super Effective on the other Pokémon. Try to teach super tough moves like Earthquake. Teach moves that suit the Pokémon. Note that if an attacking move is used by a Pokémon of the same type, it will be significantly more powerful, thanks to Same Type Effect Bonus (STAB), which can be useful.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use one PP Max on each move.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Level up to level 100.\", \"描述\": \"Simple and straight forward. Depending on which game you are playing, you may not want to use Rare Candies all the way to level 100; if you do, it might lose the possibility to gain EVs. That is 126 stat points lost at lvl 100. If you want to be safe, make sure you have finished EV training it until you finish leveling it to lvl 100 (normally, since a lot of battling is required to reach lvl 100 without Rare Candy-ing it, these will fill completely up by themselves).\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Give your Pokémon the held item you chose.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Perfect your Pokémon\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Develop your friendship.\", \"描述\": \"In each game, there is an NPC that can tell you if your friendship is perfect or not. If you don't have a perfect friendship, walk around with it in your party, give it a massage, feed it special berries etc. You can earn a ribbon for developing a perfect relationship with your Pokémon.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Develop Affection.\", \"描述\": \"In Generation VI onward, affection can be gained by playing with your Pokémon, petting your Pokémon and feeding your Pokémon via Pokémon Amie. When your Pokémon is affectionate, it will behave differently in battle. Sometimes, it will even shrug off a status effect or avoid being knocked out for it's trainer.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Earn all possible ribbons.\", \"描述\": \"Some are easier to get, some are hard, some are impossible. You're perfect Pokémon deserves to be as decorated as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Crown your Pokémon with the Leaf Crown.\", \"描述\": \"In Heart Gold and Soul Silver, your Pokémon can find rare shiny leaves when it follows you through certain routes. Collect all five to award your perfect Pokémon a glorious crown.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Try catching a Chansey or obtain an item called lucky egg. The Lucky egg is a held item that increase EXP from battles and Chansey has it usually as a held item if you catch it in the wild (Safari Zone - FR&LG)\\n\", \"If the Pokémon is able to learn moves like Thunder, Fire Blast, Blizzard, Frenzy Plant, Hydro Cannon, or any move with attack power 120 or higher, that helps, but they frequently miss and have low PP. It is recommended you teach Thunderbolt, Flamethrower, or Ice Beam for the elementals.\\n\", \"If you have maxed out a Pokémon's level and still want to EV train it, in R/B/Y and G/S/C, you can use the Box Trick. This consists of storing your Pokémon in the computer storage system and retrieving it, which will give you the stat boosts. In B/W and B/W2, EVs are applied as you gain them, eliminating the issue entirely.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't play with Pokémon you don't like. Pokémon should be fun.\\n\", \"These instructions are general for all generations. Because of this there will be generation specific nuances especially with breeding. For instance, Pokéballs are not inherited in generation III. You may want to research the mechanics of your specific generation.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,458 |
How to Build a Pergola
|
1. Preparing and Measuring Your Space
1-1. Research zoning laws in your area
States and towns have zoning laws that restrict certain kinds of construction. Call your local building commission or zoning department to make sure that you can build a pergola on your property. You can also find zoning ordinances on your local town’s website.
In some cases you’ll have to get a permit before you can start building.
If you're in an urban area, you'll have to consider the "setbacks" set by the cities.
A setback is the minimum distance structures have to be from streets, roads, rivers, and other protected areas.
1-2. Contact local utility companies before you dig holes.
If you’re building your pergola in your yard, you’ll have to dig deep holes which can damage pipes or power lines under the ground. Look at your utility bills to find the phone numbers for your utility companies. Call them and ask about any pipes or lines that may be running underground.
If you live in the United States, you can dial 811 to contact your local utilities.
In Australia you’d dial 1100 to contact local utility companies.
1-3. Measure and mark an 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m) square in your yard.
Mark each corner of the square with spray paint. This will be the length and width of your pergola. Measure and mark a different sized square if you want a larger or smaller pergola. This is an average size for a pergola.
If you measure a space that's larger or smaller than 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m), you'll have to adjust the size of your wooden posts accordingly.
If you are installing the pergola on a patio, use chalk instead of spray paint to mark your measurements.
1-4. Dig a hole in each corner of your measured space.
Each hole should be 28–48 inches (71–122 cm)-deep. These holes will hold your posts in place and ensure that your pergola stays together. Make each corner hole 8 by 8 inches (20 cm × 20 cm) so that they are large enough to fit your pergola’s posts.
Make each hole the same depth.
If you are placing your pergola over a patio, you have to screw metal post anchors into the patio instead of digging holes.
1-5. Pack the bottom of the hole with 4 inches (10 cm) of gravel.
Pouring gravel on the bottom of the hole will give your posts something to rest on. If you don’t do this, they will sink into the dirt. You should now have a total of four holes packed with gravel.
1-6. Measure the depth of each hole and remove or add gravel to level them.
Use a tape measure to measure the walls of each hole. If they aren’t the same size, remove or add gravel so that all the holes have a uniform depth. If you don’t do this, your pergola will be lopsided.
2. Laying Down Foundation Posts
2-1. Place a post into the first hole.
You’ll want to use posts that are at least 8 by 8 inches (20 cm × 20 cm) thick and 10 feet (3.0 m) long. Work on each post one at a time until it's secured to the ground. Put one end of the post into a hole and make sure that it rests flat on the gravel. Hold the post in place as you move onto the next steps.
Posts shouldn't go straight into the ground, because you want to minimize wood rot. Pour them in with rapid set quickcrete, or if you're on a flagstone or paved patio, use brackets that create a gap between the surface and the post. Then the brackets are poured into the concrete, and the posts are bolted into the brackets.
2-2. Make sure that the post is level.
Hold a level vertically against the post. The bubble in your level should line up in the middle of the level indicator. If your post is on an angle, readjust it.
Hold the level against the post as you adjust it so that you know when the post is level.
2-3. Nail smaller boards to your post to brace it.
Have a friend hold the posts in place while you nail 1 by 4 feet (0.30 m × 1.22 m) planks of wood on a 30-degree angle to each side of the post. Angle the brace boards so that one end of the brace is wedged against the ground and the other end is pushed up against your post. Then, drive a nail through the brace and into the post to hold it in place. Place the other posts into the holes and brace them all.
You can use scrap wood or purchase additional planks for the braces.
You can stop holding the posts in place once you brace them.
2-4. Level and brace the rest of your posts.
Repeat the steps on the next three posts. Once you're done, each foundation post should stand vertically and form the foundation for your pergola.
2-5. Mix a bag of concrete with water.
Purchase an 80 pounds (36 kg) bag of concrete and pour the dry concrete dust into a wheelbarrow. Read the instructions on the packaging so you know how much water you’ll need to add to the powder. Slowly pour the water into the concrete dust and mix it together with a shovel. This will create concrete that you can use to close up the holes for your posts.
2-6. Pour concrete into each post hole.
Continue to pour concrete into the hole until it's 3–6 inches (7.6–15.2 cm) from the top of the hole. Make sure that the concrete doesn't overflow or it will look messy.
2-7. Stir the concrete in the hole to aerate it.
Use a stick to mix the concrete while it's still wet. This will remove air bubbles.
2-8. Let the concrete dry for 24 hours.
After 24 hours have passed, the concrete should be solid enough to hold the foundation posts of your pergola in place.
2-9. Detach the braces from the posts.
Remove the nails from the braces on your posts. They should now stand vertically and be firmly implanted in the ground.
3. Building the Roof
3-1. Mark 2 feet (0.61 m) from the top on both sides of each post.
Draw an X in the center of both sides of each post. Mark the side that is pointing inward, towards your pergola. Then make another X on the opposite side of the post. These markings will give your cross beams something to rest on as you nail them in. Make these markings on all four posts.
3-2. Hammer nails halfway into the posts.
The nails you use should be 4 inches (10 cm) long. Place the nails where you made your marks. These nails will temporarily hold up the girders or cross beams that will run horizontally across your pergola. Drive the nail halfway in on each side of all 4 posts.
3-3. Rest 2 by 10 feet (0.61 m × 3.05 m) cross beams on top of the nails.
Use the nails to hold your cross beams in place and keep them level. Each post should have 2 sets of cross beams on opposite sides of the post. Place a level on top of the cross beams to make sure that they are level, then clamp them to your foundation posts to hold them in place.
3-4. Screw or bolt the cross beams to the posts.
Screw the cross beams into the posts with bolts or 4 inches (10 cm) screws. Place 2 screws on each end of the cross beam to secure them tightly. Your pergola should now have 2 cross beams running parallel to each other on each side of the structure.
If the beams aren't level, remove the nail and adjust their placement.
You can make slightly angled cuts on the end of your cross beams and rafters to give your pergola a more customized look.
3-5. Remove the nails that you used to steady the crossbeams.
Use the back of the hammer to pull out the nails that you used to steady your cross beams. They should stay in place if you screwed them into your foundation posts properly.
3-6. Lay 8 rafters across the cross beams.
Your rafters should be the same size as your cross beams, or 2 by 10 feet (0.61 m × 3.05 m). Arrange the rafters so that they lay perpendicular to your cross beams. Each rafter should be spaced 1 foot (0.30 m) away from the next rafter.
Configure the rafters onto the cross beams so that they look how you want. You can add more rafters and space them closer together, or add fewer rafters and space them further apart.
3-7. Hammer one nail into each end of each rafter.
You'll want to use nails that are at least 4 inches (10 cm) long. Angle your nail so that it goes through the side of the rafter and down into the crossbeam. Do this once on each side of the rafter to hold it in place.
3-8. Nail 8 top slats into the rafters.
The top slats can be thinner pieces of wood, or 1 by 2 inches (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) thick and 8 feet (2.4 m) long. Line all 8 of the slats a 1 foot (0.30 m) apart and drive a nail into each end of the slats. This will finish the roof of your pergola.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:52",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing and Measuring Your Space\\n1-1. Research zoning laws in your area\\nStates and towns have zoning laws that restrict certain kinds of construction. Call your local building commission or zoning department to make sure that you can build a pergola on your property. You can also find zoning ordinances on your local town’s website.\\nIn some cases you’ll have to get a permit before you can start building.\\nIf you're in an urban area, you'll have to consider the \\\"setbacks\\\" set by the cities.\\nA setback is the minimum distance structures have to be from streets, roads, rivers, and other protected areas.\\n1-2. Contact local utility companies before you dig holes.\\nIf you’re building your pergola in your yard, you’ll have to dig deep holes which can damage pipes or power lines under the ground. Look at your utility bills to find the phone numbers for your utility companies. Call them and ask about any pipes or lines that may be running underground.\\nIf you live in the United States, you can dial 811 to contact your local utilities.\\nIn Australia you’d dial 1100 to contact local utility companies.\\n1-3. Measure and mark an 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m) square in your yard.\\nMark each corner of the square with spray paint. This will be the length and width of your pergola. Measure and mark a different sized square if you want a larger or smaller pergola. This is an average size for a pergola.\\nIf you measure a space that's larger or smaller than 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m), you'll have to adjust the size of your wooden posts accordingly.\\nIf you are installing the pergola on a patio, use chalk instead of spray paint to mark your measurements.\\n1-4. Dig a hole in each corner of your measured space.\\nEach hole should be 28–48 inches (71–122 cm)-deep. These holes will hold your posts in place and ensure that your pergola stays together. Make each corner hole 8 by 8 inches (20 cm × 20 cm) so that they are large enough to fit your pergola’s posts.\\nMake each hole the same depth.\\nIf you are placing your pergola over a patio, you have to screw metal post anchors into the patio instead of digging holes.\\n1-5. Pack the bottom of the hole with 4 inches (10 cm) of gravel.\\nPouring gravel on the bottom of the hole will give your posts something to rest on. If you don’t do this, they will sink into the dirt. You should now have a total of four holes packed with gravel.\\n1-6. Measure the depth of each hole and remove or add gravel to level them.\\nUse a tape measure to measure the walls of each hole. If they aren’t the same size, remove or add gravel so that all the holes have a uniform depth. If you don’t do this, your pergola will be lopsided.\\n2. Laying Down Foundation Posts\\n2-1. Place a post into the first hole.\\nYou’ll want to use posts that are at least 8 by 8 inches (20 cm × 20 cm) thick and 10 feet (3.0 m) long. Work on each post one at a time until it's secured to the ground. Put one end of the post into a hole and make sure that it rests flat on the gravel. Hold the post in place as you move onto the next steps.\\nPosts shouldn't go straight into the ground, because you want to minimize wood rot. Pour them in with rapid set quickcrete, or if you're on a flagstone or paved patio, use brackets that create a gap between the surface and the post. Then the brackets are poured into the concrete, and the posts are bolted into the brackets.\\n2-2. Make sure that the post is level.\\nHold a level vertically against the post. The bubble in your level should line up in the middle of the level indicator. If your post is on an angle, readjust it.\\nHold the level against the post as you adjust it so that you know when the post is level.\\n2-3. Nail smaller boards to your post to brace it.\\nHave a friend hold the posts in place while you nail 1 by 4 feet (0.30 m × 1.22 m) planks of wood on a 30-degree angle to each side of the post. Angle the brace boards so that one end of the brace is wedged against the ground and the other end is pushed up against your post. Then, drive a nail through the brace and into the post to hold it in place. Place the other posts into the holes and brace them all.\\nYou can use scrap wood or purchase additional planks for the braces.\\nYou can stop holding the posts in place once you brace them.\\n2-4. Level and brace the rest of your posts.\\nRepeat the steps on the next three posts. Once you're done, each foundation post should stand vertically and form the foundation for your pergola.\\n2-5. Mix a bag of concrete with water.\\nPurchase an 80 pounds (36 kg) bag of concrete and pour the dry concrete dust into a wheelbarrow. Read the instructions on the packaging so you know how much water you’ll need to add to the powder. Slowly pour the water into the concrete dust and mix it together with a shovel. This will create concrete that you can use to close up the holes for your posts.\\n2-6. Pour concrete into each post hole.\\nContinue to pour concrete into the hole until it's 3–6 inches (7.6–15.2 cm) from the top of the hole. Make sure that the concrete doesn't overflow or it will look messy.\\n2-7. Stir the concrete in the hole to aerate it.\\nUse a stick to mix the concrete while it's still wet. This will remove air bubbles.\\n2-8. Let the concrete dry for 24 hours.\\nAfter 24 hours have passed, the concrete should be solid enough to hold the foundation posts of your pergola in place.\\n2-9. Detach the braces from the posts.\\nRemove the nails from the braces on your posts. They should now stand vertically and be firmly implanted in the ground.\\n3. Building the Roof\\n3-1. Mark 2 feet (0.61 m) from the top on both sides of each post.\\nDraw an X in the center of both sides of each post. Mark the side that is pointing inward, towards your pergola. Then make another X on the opposite side of the post. These markings will give your cross beams something to rest on as you nail them in. Make these markings on all four posts.\\n3-2. Hammer nails halfway into the posts.\\nThe nails you use should be 4 inches (10 cm) long. Place the nails where you made your marks. These nails will temporarily hold up the girders or cross beams that will run horizontally across your pergola. Drive the nail halfway in on each side of all 4 posts.\\n3-3. Rest 2 by 10 feet (0.61 m × 3.05 m) cross beams on top of the nails.\\nUse the nails to hold your cross beams in place and keep them level. Each post should have 2 sets of cross beams on opposite sides of the post. Place a level on top of the cross beams to make sure that they are level, then clamp them to your foundation posts to hold them in place.\\n3-4. Screw or bolt the cross beams to the posts.\\nScrew the cross beams into the posts with bolts or 4 inches (10 cm) screws. Place 2 screws on each end of the cross beam to secure them tightly. Your pergola should now have 2 cross beams running parallel to each other on each side of the structure.\\nIf the beams aren't level, remove the nail and adjust their placement.\\nYou can make slightly angled cuts on the end of your cross beams and rafters to give your pergola a more customized look.\\n3-5. Remove the nails that you used to steady the crossbeams.\\nUse the back of the hammer to pull out the nails that you used to steady your cross beams. They should stay in place if you screwed them into your foundation posts properly.\\n3-6. Lay 8 rafters across the cross beams.\\nYour rafters should be the same size as your cross beams, or 2 by 10 feet (0.61 m × 3.05 m). Arrange the rafters so that they lay perpendicular to your cross beams. Each rafter should be spaced 1 foot (0.30 m) away from the next rafter.\\nConfigure the rafters onto the cross beams so that they look how you want. You can add more rafters and space them closer together, or add fewer rafters and space them further apart.\\n3-7. Hammer one nail into each end of each rafter.\\nYou'll want to use nails that are at least 4 inches (10 cm) long. Angle your nail so that it goes through the side of the rafter and down into the crossbeam. Do this once on each side of the rafter to hold it in place.\\n3-8. Nail 8 top slats into the rafters.\\nThe top slats can be thinner pieces of wood, or 1 by 2 inches (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) thick and 8 feet (2.4 m) long. Line all 8 of the slats a 1 foot (0.30 m) apart and drive a nail into each end of the slats. This will finish the roof of your pergola.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A pergola is an open outdoor structure that is made up of wooden posts and has a trussed roof. To build a pergola you'll need to prepare and measure a space in your yard before laying down the foundation posts. Once a strong foundation is in place, you'll finish the project by constructing the roof. With the right materials and forethought, you can build a sturdy pergola that can add some style to your yard's decor and can create a shaded area where you can relax and socialize.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing and Measuring Your Space\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Research zoning laws in your area\", \"描述\": \"States and towns have zoning laws that restrict certain kinds of construction. Call your local building commission or zoning department to make sure that you can build a pergola on your property. You can also find zoning ordinances on your local town’s website.\\nIn some cases you’ll have to get a permit before you can start building.\\nIf you're in an urban area, you'll have to consider the \\\"setbacks\\\" set by the cities.\\nA setback is the minimum distance structures have to be from streets, roads, rivers, and other protected areas.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Contact local utility companies before you dig holes.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re building your pergola in your yard, you’ll have to dig deep holes which can damage pipes or power lines under the ground. Look at your utility bills to find the phone numbers for your utility companies. Call them and ask about any pipes or lines that may be running underground.\\nIf you live in the United States, you can dial 811 to contact your local utilities.\\nIn Australia you’d dial 1100 to contact local utility companies.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure and mark an 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m) square in your yard.\", \"描述\": \"Mark each corner of the square with spray paint. This will be the length and width of your pergola. Measure and mark a different sized square if you want a larger or smaller pergola. This is an average size for a pergola.\\nIf you measure a space that's larger or smaller than 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m), you'll have to adjust the size of your wooden posts accordingly.\\nIf you are installing the pergola on a patio, use chalk instead of spray paint to mark your measurements.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig a hole in each corner of your measured space.\", \"描述\": \"Each hole should be 28–48 inches (71–122 cm)-deep. These holes will hold your posts in place and ensure that your pergola stays together. Make each corner hole 8 by 8 inches (20 cm × 20 cm) so that they are large enough to fit your pergola’s posts.\\nMake each hole the same depth.\\nIf you are placing your pergola over a patio, you have to screw metal post anchors into the patio instead of digging holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pack the bottom of the hole with 4 inches (10 cm) of gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Pouring gravel on the bottom of the hole will give your posts something to rest on. If you don’t do this, they will sink into the dirt. You should now have a total of four holes packed with gravel.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Measure the depth of each hole and remove or add gravel to level them.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tape measure to measure the walls of each hole. If they aren’t the same size, remove or add gravel so that all the holes have a uniform depth. If you don’t do this, your pergola will be lopsided.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Laying Down Foundation Posts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place a post into the first hole.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll want to use posts that are at least 8 by 8 inches (20 cm × 20 cm) thick and 10 feet (3.0 m) long. Work on each post one at a time until it's secured to the ground. Put one end of the post into a hole and make sure that it rests flat on the gravel. Hold the post in place as you move onto the next steps.\\nPosts shouldn't go straight into the ground, because you want to minimize wood rot. Pour them in with rapid set quickcrete, or if you're on a flagstone or paved patio, use brackets that create a gap between the surface and the post. Then the brackets are poured into the concrete, and the posts are bolted into the brackets.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure that the post is level.\", \"描述\": \"Hold a level vertically against the post. The bubble in your level should line up in the middle of the level indicator. If your post is on an angle, readjust it.\\nHold the level against the post as you adjust it so that you know when the post is level.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Nail smaller boards to your post to brace it.\", \"描述\": \"Have a friend hold the posts in place while you nail 1 by 4 feet (0.30 m × 1.22 m) planks of wood on a 30-degree angle to each side of the post. Angle the brace boards so that one end of the brace is wedged against the ground and the other end is pushed up against your post. Then, drive a nail through the brace and into the post to hold it in place. Place the other posts into the holes and brace them all.\\nYou can use scrap wood or purchase additional planks for the braces.\\nYou can stop holding the posts in place once you brace them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Level and brace the rest of your posts.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat the steps on the next three posts. Once you're done, each foundation post should stand vertically and form the foundation for your pergola.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mix a bag of concrete with water.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase an 80 pounds (36 kg) bag of concrete and pour the dry concrete dust into a wheelbarrow. Read the instructions on the packaging so you know how much water you’ll need to add to the powder. Slowly pour the water into the concrete dust and mix it together with a shovel. This will create concrete that you can use to close up the holes for your posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pour concrete into each post hole.\", \"描述\": \"Continue to pour concrete into the hole until it's 3–6 inches (7.6–15.2 cm) from the top of the hole. Make sure that the concrete doesn't overflow or it will look messy.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Stir the concrete in the hole to aerate it.\", \"描述\": \"Use a stick to mix the concrete while it's still wet. This will remove air bubbles.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Let the concrete dry for 24 hours.\", \"描述\": \"After 24 hours have passed, the concrete should be solid enough to hold the foundation posts of your pergola in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Detach the braces from the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the nails from the braces on your posts. They should now stand vertically and be firmly implanted in the ground.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark 2 feet (0.61 m) from the top on both sides of each post.\", \"描述\": \"Draw an X in the center of both sides of each post. Mark the side that is pointing inward, towards your pergola. Then make another X on the opposite side of the post. These markings will give your cross beams something to rest on as you nail them in. Make these markings on all four posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hammer nails halfway into the posts.\", \"描述\": \"The nails you use should be 4 inches (10 cm) long. Place the nails where you made your marks. These nails will temporarily hold up the girders or cross beams that will run horizontally across your pergola. Drive the nail halfway in on each side of all 4 posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Rest 2 by 10 feet (0.61 m × 3.05 m) cross beams on top of the nails.\", \"描述\": \"Use the nails to hold your cross beams in place and keep them level. Each post should have 2 sets of cross beams on opposite sides of the post. Place a level on top of the cross beams to make sure that they are level, then clamp them to your foundation posts to hold them in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw or bolt the cross beams to the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Screw the cross beams into the posts with bolts or 4 inches (10 cm) screws. Place 2 screws on each end of the cross beam to secure them tightly. Your pergola should now have 2 cross beams running parallel to each other on each side of the structure.\\nIf the beams aren't level, remove the nail and adjust their placement.\\nYou can make slightly angled cuts on the end of your cross beams and rafters to give your pergola a more customized look.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Remove the nails that you used to steady the crossbeams.\", \"描述\": \"Use the back of the hammer to pull out the nails that you used to steady your cross beams. They should stay in place if you screwed them into your foundation posts properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Lay 8 rafters across the cross beams.\", \"描述\": \"Your rafters should be the same size as your cross beams, or 2 by 10 feet (0.61 m × 3.05 m). Arrange the rafters so that they lay perpendicular to your cross beams. Each rafter should be spaced 1 foot (0.30 m) away from the next rafter.\\nConfigure the rafters onto the cross beams so that they look how you want. You can add more rafters and space them closer together, or add fewer rafters and space them further apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Hammer one nail into each end of each rafter.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want to use nails that are at least 4 inches (10 cm) long. Angle your nail so that it goes through the side of the rafter and down into the crossbeam. Do this once on each side of the rafter to hold it in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Nail 8 top slats into the rafters.\", \"描述\": \"The top slats can be thinner pieces of wood, or 1 by 2 inches (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) thick and 8 feet (2.4 m) long. Line all 8 of the slats a 1 foot (0.30 m) apart and drive a nail into each end of the slats. This will finish the roof of your pergola.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,459 |
How to Build a Personal Desktop Computer
|
1. Steps
1-1. Prepare the Mainboard (motherboard).
If you want to assemble the well-liked device, you should use Intel i3,i5,i7 Mainboard.
1-2. Mount the CPU in the socket of the Mainboard.
You must choose the correct CPU for your motherboard, and install it according to its instructions.
1-3. Connect the CPU cooler to the Mainboard.
1-4. Attach the RAM(memory) modules in the corresponding slots.
the motherboard should have rows of slots that have 2 or 3 sections that are different lengths. Make sure the pins on the RAM cards line up with the pins on the motherboard connector.
1-5. Open the case and mount the power supply which is M-ATX type.
Make sure to connect all the connections to the drives and the motherboard.
1-6. Attach the Mainboard back plate to the case and check the Mainboard mounting positions.
The motherboard's instructions should tell the position of the motherboard.
1-7. Suitably position the Mainboard in the case.
1-8. Mount the Hard disk and connect it to the power supply and the motherboard.
There should be separate connections for the power supply and the motherboard. In SATA Hard disk case, should remove the jumper.
1-9. Connect the SATA connectors to the drives and the USB connectors and the case switches to the motherboard.
The case and motherboard's instructions should tell where to connect the cables.
1-10. Connect the 20 or 24 pin ATX connector and the 4-pin power supply control connector to the motherboard.
1-11. Mount the DVD-ROM drive.
After connecting the ATA cable to the device, hook it up to the power supply.
1-12. Finally, select a compatible operating system, and follow the instructions to install.
Tips
Try to keep cables neat and tidy for best airflow
Read the instructions in CPU box.
Make sure you have an intake fan on the front of your PC and an exhaust fan on the back.
Warnings
Do not turn the computer on until it is fully hooked up.
Do not over press any component into its slot.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:53",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Prepare the Mainboard (motherboard).\\nIf you want to assemble the well-liked device, you should use Intel i3,i5,i7 Mainboard.\\n1-2. Mount the CPU in the socket of the Mainboard.\\nYou must choose the correct CPU for your motherboard, and install it according to its instructions.\\n1-3. Connect the CPU cooler to the Mainboard.\\n\\n1-4. Attach the RAM(memory) modules in the corresponding slots.\\nthe motherboard should have rows of slots that have 2 or 3 sections that are different lengths. Make sure the pins on the RAM cards line up with the pins on the motherboard connector.\\n1-5. Open the case and mount the power supply which is M-ATX type.\\nMake sure to connect all the connections to the drives and the motherboard.\\n1-6. Attach the Mainboard back plate to the case and check the Mainboard mounting positions.\\nThe motherboard's instructions should tell the position of the motherboard.\\n1-7. Suitably position the Mainboard in the case.\\n\\n1-8. Mount the Hard disk and connect it to the power supply and the motherboard.\\nThere should be separate connections for the power supply and the motherboard. In SATA Hard disk case, should remove the jumper.\\n1-9. Connect the SATA connectors to the drives and the USB connectors and the case switches to the motherboard.\\nThe case and motherboard's instructions should tell where to connect the cables.\\n1-10. Connect the 20 or 24 pin ATX connector and the 4-pin power supply control connector to the motherboard.\\n\\n1-11. Mount the DVD-ROM drive.\\nAfter connecting the ATA cable to the device, hook it up to the power supply.\\n1-12. Finally, select a compatible operating system, and follow the instructions to install.\\n\\nTips\\nTry to keep cables neat and tidy for best airflow\\nRead the instructions in CPU box.\\nMake sure you have an intake fan on the front of your PC and an exhaust fan on the back.\\nWarnings\\nDo not turn the computer on until it is fully hooked up.\\nDo not over press any component into its slot.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This instruction will teach you how to make a personal desktop computer. There are some steps for you to follow. After finishing assembling all components, you will obtain the computer for yourself and you can design a system more targeted toward your own use.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare the Mainboard (motherboard).\", \"描述\": \"If you want to assemble the well-liked device, you should use Intel i3,i5,i7 Mainboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mount the CPU in the socket of the Mainboard.\", \"描述\": \"You must choose the correct CPU for your motherboard, and install it according to its instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the CPU cooler to the Mainboard.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the RAM(memory) modules in the corresponding slots.\", \"描述\": \"the motherboard should have rows of slots that have 2 or 3 sections that are different lengths. Make sure the pins on the RAM cards line up with the pins on the motherboard connector.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Open the case and mount the power supply which is M-ATX type.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to connect all the connections to the drives and the motherboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the Mainboard back plate to the case and check the Mainboard mounting positions.\", \"描述\": \"The motherboard's instructions should tell the position of the motherboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Suitably position the Mainboard in the case.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Mount the Hard disk and connect it to the power supply and the motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"There should be separate connections for the power supply and the motherboard. In SATA Hard disk case, should remove the jumper.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Connect the SATA connectors to the drives and the USB connectors and the case switches to the motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"The case and motherboard's instructions should tell where to connect the cables.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Connect the 20 or 24 pin ATX connector and the 4-pin power supply control connector to the motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Mount the DVD-ROM drive.\", \"描述\": \"After connecting the ATA cable to the device, hook it up to the power supply.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Finally, select a compatible operating system, and follow the instructions to install.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Try to keep cables neat and tidy for best airflow\\n\", \"Read the instructions in CPU box.\\n\", \"Make sure you have an intake fan on the front of your PC and an exhaust fan on the back.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not turn the computer on until it is fully hooked up.\\n\", \"Do not over press any component into its slot.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,460 |
How to Build a Picnic Table
|
1. Buying and Cutting Wood
1-1. Purchase durable lumber for the project.
Treated southern yellow pine is a strong but relatively inexpensive choice for the table. You can also try woods like red cedar, Douglas fir, or redwood. Premium lumber, or even a synthetic material made from recycled plastics, leads to a higher quality table. To make an average-sized table, buy:
15 boards that are 2 × 6 × 72 in (5.1 × 15.2 × 182.9 cm).
7 boards that are 2 × 4 × 30 in (5.1 × 10.2 × 76.2 cm)
1-2. Wear safety goggles and a dust mask while working with the wood.
Building the table involves a lot of cutting, drilling, and sawdust. Taking the proper safety precautions will protect your health in the long run. Also, wear earmuffs to protect your hearing while operating saws.
Avoid wearing long clothing, jewelry, or gloves that can get caught by a saw blade.
1-3. Measure and cut the 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) with a circular saw.
The longer boards form the tabletop, seats, and table legs. Use a speed square and a pencil to measure out the cuts. A speed square is like a combination of a ruler and protractor. Hold it against the board to trace straight lines and angles. You can also use a miter saw to trim the boards to size.
Cut 5 of the boards to be 6 ft (1.8 m) long. These will form the tabletop.
For the legs, cut 4 more boards to be about 3 ft (910 mm) long. Cut both ends of each board at a 25-degree angle, angled oppositely away from the board.
Cut 2 more boards for the bench supports. Make them 5 ft (1.5 m).
Make the benches by cutting 4 more boards about 6 ft (1.8 m) long.
1-4. Saw the 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards to the proper length.
Cut with a circular saw again or a miter saw if you know how to use one. The shorter boards form a lot of the bracing that gives the table stability. Measure and trim these down as needed.
Make 3 battens 2.5 ft (76 cm) long. The battens are braces for the tabletop. Cut both ends at a 45-degree angle, angled oppositely away from the board’s center.
Cut 2 boards about 2.33 ft (0.71 m) to form the table braces.
Make a pair of cleats by cutting the final 2 boards 11.33 in (28.8 cm) long. Cleats are supports for the benches.
2. Assembling the Table Frame
2-1. Lay the 5 tabletop boards with their best side facedown.
The side you place facedown will form the top of the table. You can lay the boards on a flat surface such as a patch of concrete or on sawhorses if you have them available. Position the boards so their ends align. Leave about ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) between each board.
To space the boards properly, stick ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wood spacers or nails between them, then push them together.
If you put the boards on sawhorses, clamp them in place so they can’t move while you’re working.
2-2. Glue the battens to the table boards.
Measure about 16 in (41 cm) in from either of the table’s short ends. Place the cut battens there, then place a third batten directly in the middle of the table. Position the battens so they run across the width of the tabletop. Then, spread a waterproof polyurethane adhesive underneath each batten to hold it in place.
The battens will be about 7 in (18 cm) from the table’s edges.
You may need to use a caulking gun to spread the adhesive. Load the gun and trim the tip off the adhesive canister. Press the trigger to release a bead of adhesive. Move slowly across the width, or short side, of the table to lay a smooth string of the adhesive.
2-3. Pre-drill holes in the battens before screwing them in place.
Use a ⁄32 in (0.40 cm) drill bit on the ends of each batten. Create a single hole in the center of each end. Drill diagonally down at about a 45-degree angle towards the tabletop boards. Then, place a 4 in (10 cm) deck screw in each hole to secure the battens in place.
To prevent the wood from cracking, always pre-drill holes before adding fasteners.
Use galvanized screws on the table. They are much stronger than nails while also being resistant to water.
2-4. Connect the legs to the outer battens and clamp them together.
Position the legs up against the inside edges of the battens, 2 per side. Make sure the legs are flush with the tabletop. They will point diagonally out from the battens, forming an A-shape. The table’s stance needs to be wide to give it plenty of stability.
Put some polyurethane adhesive under the legs to secure them to the tabletop.
2-5. Screw the legs to the battens with 3 in (7.6 cm) carriage bolts.
Countersink the carriage bolts by first drilling a pair of 1 in (2.5 cm) holes about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) deep. Then, pre-drill a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) wide hole through the center of the first hole. Finish by screwing in the bolts.
Position the holes along the edges where each leg and batten meet. Make the first hole near the bottom edge of the batten, closer to the center of the tabletop. Make the second hole along the top edge and near the batten’s outer edge.
Leave about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of space between the screws and the edges of the wood.
For extra strength, screw a washer and nut onto the end of each bolt.
2-6. Measure about 13 in (33 cm) up the legs to position the bench support.
Measure from the bottom of the legs and use a pencil to mark them. Then, raise the 2 bench supports up and clamp them firmly in place. The bench supports will run across the legs, preventing them from moving.
Make sure the bench supports extend beyond the legs. The bench supports also hold up the benches, which can’t happen without that extra length of wood.
2-7. Countersink the bench supports with 3 in (7.6 cm) carriage bolts.
Attach the bench supports the same way you did the legs. Create 2 holes by drilling through the legs and into the supports. Position 1 hole along the bottom edge of the support and the leg’s centermost edge. Make the second hole opposite of the first.
Remember to drill a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole first, then drill a second, smaller hole directly in its center. Countersinking enables you to connect thin pieces of wood without breaking them.
Place a washer and nut on the end of each bolt to strengthen it.
2-8. Screw the braces to the bench supports and middle batten.
Make sure braces fit firmly in place before you attach them. Position them so they are flush with the batten and the top edge of the supports. When you’re sure they’re steady, use a ⁄32 in (0.40 cm) drill bit to pre-drill pilot holes. Finish the supports with several 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws.
Make the outer holes by drilling through the supports and into the braces. Make the inner holes by drilling through the braces and into the tabletop.
To make your bench sturdy, install 2 screws on each end of the braces.
You may need to measure and cut the braces again to make them fit. Use a speed square, pencil, and circular or miter saw for this.
3. Finishing the Benches and Features
3-1. Invert the table so it is standing on its legs.
You are almost done constructing the table. Now is a good time to check its stability. Push against each component to see how sturdy the table feels. When you’re satisfied, you are ready to create the seats.
If any component wiggles, it may not be sturdy. Make sure the boards are flush and screwed tightly together.
3-2. Align the bench boards together on a flat surface.
Lay them on the ground or on a sawhorse. Make sure you put the better sides facedown, since they will form the top part of each seat. Keep the edges of the boards flush with one another and separate them using ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wood spacers or nails.
Connect 2 boards per bench. Keep the benches separate.
3-3. Attach the cleats to each bench.
Spread a line of polyurethane adhesive along the bench’s width. Then, press the cleat onto it directly in the center. Drill a pair of ⁄32 in (0.40 cm) wide pilot holes through each cleat and into the bench boards. Screw them in place with 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) deck screws.
Place the holes about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) away from the edges of each cleat.
For additional stability, create 4 more cleats. Place them as close to the ends of the benches as possible.
3-4. Screw the bench boards to the support boards.
Lay the benches over the supports so the cleats face the ground. Locate the points where each board meets the supports. Along the center of each board, drill down into the support. Place more 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws to secure the benches in place.
You will need to create 2 holes for each board for a total of 4 holes per bench.
3-5. Cut the corners off the tabletop at a 45 degree angle.
Use a saber saw or router to round off the table’s edges. Remove about 2 in (5.1 cm) off of each corner. Work carefully to ensure the table looks even on all sides.
While doing this is optional, it is recommended to prevent injuries from anyone bumping into sharp corners.
3-6. Sand the table with 220-grit sandpaper.
Rub the sandpaper lightly along the table’s grain. This will eliminate any splinters or rough edges. Feel the table with your hand afterwards. Make sure it feels smooth to the touch.
Avoid pressing too hard. If the sandpaper leaves scratches on the table, use less pressure.
3-7. Seal
Try using a silicone or polyurethane sealer or wood stain. Spread the sealer or stain over the wood evenly with a rag, then let it dry for about 2 hours or the length of time specified by the manufacturer. Recoat the wood once or twice to protect your picnic table from the elements.
Wood stain products turn the wood a darker color. Apply the stain in a light initial layer, then add more in subsequent layers until the table reaches the shade you desire.
Tips
Ask the employees at your local home improvement store for help. They will usually cut the wood for you if you provide a list of measurements.
Bolts and even wood screws are much stronger than nails. Avoid using nails when building a table.
Use weather and rot resistant lumber or synthetic decking material for a long-lasting table.
Warnings
Avoid wearing long-sleeved clothing, gloves, or jewelry while operating a saw.
Cutting wood and drilling wood can be dangerous. Always wear safety glasses and a dust mask to avoid injuries.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:53",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Buying and Cutting Wood\\n1-1. Purchase durable lumber for the project.\\nTreated southern yellow pine is a strong but relatively inexpensive choice for the table. You can also try woods like red cedar, Douglas fir, or redwood. Premium lumber, or even a synthetic material made from recycled plastics, leads to a higher quality table. To make an average-sized table, buy:\\n15 boards that are 2 × 6 × 72 in (5.1 × 15.2 × 182.9 cm).\\n7 boards that are 2 × 4 × 30 in (5.1 × 10.2 × 76.2 cm)\\n1-2. Wear safety goggles and a dust mask while working with the wood.\\nBuilding the table involves a lot of cutting, drilling, and sawdust. Taking the proper safety precautions will protect your health in the long run. Also, wear earmuffs to protect your hearing while operating saws.\\nAvoid wearing long clothing, jewelry, or gloves that can get caught by a saw blade.\\n1-3. Measure and cut the 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) with a circular saw.\\nThe longer boards form the tabletop, seats, and table legs. Use a speed square and a pencil to measure out the cuts. A speed square is like a combination of a ruler and protractor. Hold it against the board to trace straight lines and angles. You can also use a miter saw to trim the boards to size.\\nCut 5 of the boards to be 6 ft (1.8 m) long. These will form the tabletop.\\nFor the legs, cut 4 more boards to be about 3 ft (910 mm) long. Cut both ends of each board at a 25-degree angle, angled oppositely away from the board.\\nCut 2 more boards for the bench supports. Make them 5 ft (1.5 m).\\nMake the benches by cutting 4 more boards about 6 ft (1.8 m) long.\\n1-4. Saw the 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards to the proper length.\\nCut with a circular saw again or a miter saw if you know how to use one. The shorter boards form a lot of the bracing that gives the table stability. Measure and trim these down as needed.\\nMake 3 battens 2.5 ft (76 cm) long. The battens are braces for the tabletop. Cut both ends at a 45-degree angle, angled oppositely away from the board’s center.\\nCut 2 boards about 2.33 ft (0.71 m) to form the table braces.\\nMake a pair of cleats by cutting the final 2 boards 11.33 in (28.8 cm) long. Cleats are supports for the benches.\\n2. Assembling the Table Frame\\n2-1. Lay the 5 tabletop boards with their best side facedown.\\nThe side you place facedown will form the top of the table. You can lay the boards on a flat surface such as a patch of concrete or on sawhorses if you have them available. Position the boards so their ends align. Leave about ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) between each board.\\nTo space the boards properly, stick ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wood spacers or nails between them, then push them together.\\nIf you put the boards on sawhorses, clamp them in place so they can’t move while you’re working.\\n2-2. Glue the battens to the table boards.\\nMeasure about 16 in (41 cm) in from either of the table’s short ends. Place the cut battens there, then place a third batten directly in the middle of the table. Position the battens so they run across the width of the tabletop. Then, spread a waterproof polyurethane adhesive underneath each batten to hold it in place.\\nThe battens will be about 7 in (18 cm) from the table’s edges.\\nYou may need to use a caulking gun to spread the adhesive. Load the gun and trim the tip off the adhesive canister. Press the trigger to release a bead of adhesive. Move slowly across the width, or short side, of the table to lay a smooth string of the adhesive.\\n2-3. Pre-drill holes in the battens before screwing them in place.\\nUse a ⁄32 in (0.40 cm) drill bit on the ends of each batten. Create a single hole in the center of each end. Drill diagonally down at about a 45-degree angle towards the tabletop boards. Then, place a 4 in (10 cm) deck screw in each hole to secure the battens in place.\\nTo prevent the wood from cracking, always pre-drill holes before adding fasteners.\\nUse galvanized screws on the table. They are much stronger than nails while also being resistant to water.\\n2-4. Connect the legs to the outer battens and clamp them together.\\nPosition the legs up against the inside edges of the battens, 2 per side. Make sure the legs are flush with the tabletop. They will point diagonally out from the battens, forming an A-shape. The table’s stance needs to be wide to give it plenty of stability.\\nPut some polyurethane adhesive under the legs to secure them to the tabletop.\\n2-5. Screw the legs to the battens with 3 in (7.6 cm) carriage bolts.\\nCountersink the carriage bolts by first drilling a pair of 1 in (2.5 cm) holes about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) deep. Then, pre-drill a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) wide hole through the center of the first hole. Finish by screwing in the bolts.\\nPosition the holes along the edges where each leg and batten meet. Make the first hole near the bottom edge of the batten, closer to the center of the tabletop. Make the second hole along the top edge and near the batten’s outer edge.\\nLeave about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of space between the screws and the edges of the wood.\\nFor extra strength, screw a washer and nut onto the end of each bolt.\\n2-6. Measure about 13 in (33 cm) up the legs to position the bench support.\\nMeasure from the bottom of the legs and use a pencil to mark them. Then, raise the 2 bench supports up and clamp them firmly in place. The bench supports will run across the legs, preventing them from moving.\\nMake sure the bench supports extend beyond the legs. The bench supports also hold up the benches, which can’t happen without that extra length of wood.\\n2-7. Countersink the bench supports with 3 in (7.6 cm) carriage bolts.\\nAttach the bench supports the same way you did the legs. Create 2 holes by drilling through the legs and into the supports. Position 1 hole along the bottom edge of the support and the leg’s centermost edge. Make the second hole opposite of the first.\\nRemember to drill a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole first, then drill a second, smaller hole directly in its center. Countersinking enables you to connect thin pieces of wood without breaking them.\\nPlace a washer and nut on the end of each bolt to strengthen it.\\n2-8. Screw the braces to the bench supports and middle batten.\\nMake sure braces fit firmly in place before you attach them. Position them so they are flush with the batten and the top edge of the supports. When you’re sure they’re steady, use a ⁄32 in (0.40 cm) drill bit to pre-drill pilot holes. Finish the supports with several 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws.\\nMake the outer holes by drilling through the supports and into the braces. Make the inner holes by drilling through the braces and into the tabletop.\\nTo make your bench sturdy, install 2 screws on each end of the braces.\\nYou may need to measure and cut the braces again to make them fit. Use a speed square, pencil, and circular or miter saw for this.\\n3. Finishing the Benches and Features\\n3-1. Invert the table so it is standing on its legs.\\nYou are almost done constructing the table. Now is a good time to check its stability. Push against each component to see how sturdy the table feels. When you’re satisfied, you are ready to create the seats.\\nIf any component wiggles, it may not be sturdy. Make sure the boards are flush and screwed tightly together.\\n3-2. Align the bench boards together on a flat surface.\\nLay them on the ground or on a sawhorse. Make sure you put the better sides facedown, since they will form the top part of each seat. Keep the edges of the boards flush with one another and separate them using ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wood spacers or nails.\\nConnect 2 boards per bench. Keep the benches separate.\\n3-3. Attach the cleats to each bench.\\nSpread a line of polyurethane adhesive along the bench’s width. Then, press the cleat onto it directly in the center. Drill a pair of ⁄32 in (0.40 cm) wide pilot holes through each cleat and into the bench boards. Screw them in place with 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) deck screws.\\nPlace the holes about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) away from the edges of each cleat.\\nFor additional stability, create 4 more cleats. Place them as close to the ends of the benches as possible.\\n3-4. Screw the bench boards to the support boards.\\nLay the benches over the supports so the cleats face the ground. Locate the points where each board meets the supports. Along the center of each board, drill down into the support. Place more 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws to secure the benches in place.\\nYou will need to create 2 holes for each board for a total of 4 holes per bench.\\n3-5. Cut the corners off the tabletop at a 45 degree angle.\\nUse a saber saw or router to round off the table’s edges. Remove about 2 in (5.1 cm) off of each corner. Work carefully to ensure the table looks even on all sides.\\nWhile doing this is optional, it is recommended to prevent injuries from anyone bumping into sharp corners.\\n3-6. Sand the table with 220-grit sandpaper.\\nRub the sandpaper lightly along the table’s grain. This will eliminate any splinters or rough edges. Feel the table with your hand afterwards. Make sure it feels smooth to the touch.\\nAvoid pressing too hard. If the sandpaper leaves scratches on the table, use less pressure.\\n3-7. Seal\\nTry using a silicone or polyurethane sealer or wood stain. Spread the sealer or stain over the wood evenly with a rag, then let it dry for about 2 hours or the length of time specified by the manufacturer. Recoat the wood once or twice to protect your picnic table from the elements.\\nWood stain products turn the wood a darker color. Apply the stain in a light initial layer, then add more in subsequent layers until the table reaches the shade you desire.\\nTips\\nAsk the employees at your local home improvement store for help. They will usually cut the wood for you if you provide a list of measurements.\\nBolts and even wood screws are much stronger than nails. Avoid using nails when building a table.\\nUse weather and rot resistant lumber or synthetic decking material for a long-lasting table.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid wearing long-sleeved clothing, gloves, or jewelry while operating a saw.\\nCutting wood and drilling wood can be dangerous. Always wear safety glasses and a dust mask to avoid injuries.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"One of life's pleasures is going outdoors when the weather is pleasant. Whether you plan on sitting in the shade or having a picnic, having a sturdy table helps. Building a good table is relatively straightforward, but you do need to cut lumber into various sizes. Assemble the pieces together with strong bolts to make a table that can last for many years.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buying and Cutting Wood\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase durable lumber for the project.\", \"描述\": \"Treated southern yellow pine is a strong but relatively inexpensive choice for the table. You can also try woods like red cedar, Douglas fir, or redwood. Premium lumber, or even a synthetic material made from recycled plastics, leads to a higher quality table. To make an average-sized table, buy:\\n15 boards that are 2 × 6 × 72 in (5.1 × 15.2 × 182.9 cm).\\n7 boards that are 2 × 4 × 30 in (5.1 × 10.2 × 76.2 cm)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wear safety goggles and a dust mask while working with the wood.\", \"描述\": \"Building the table involves a lot of cutting, drilling, and sawdust. Taking the proper safety precautions will protect your health in the long run. Also, wear earmuffs to protect your hearing while operating saws.\\nAvoid wearing long clothing, jewelry, or gloves that can get caught by a saw blade.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut the 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) with a circular saw.\", \"描述\": \"The longer boards form the tabletop, seats, and table legs. Use a speed square and a pencil to measure out the cuts. A speed square is like a combination of a ruler and protractor. Hold it against the board to trace straight lines and angles. You can also use a miter saw to trim the boards to size.\\nCut 5 of the boards to be 6 ft (1.8 m) long. These will form the tabletop.\\nFor the legs, cut 4 more boards to be about 3 ft (910 mm) long. Cut both ends of each board at a 25-degree angle, angled oppositely away from the board.\\nCut 2 more boards for the bench supports. Make them 5 ft (1.5 m).\\nMake the benches by cutting 4 more boards about 6 ft (1.8 m) long.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Saw the 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards to the proper length.\", \"描述\": \"Cut with a circular saw again or a miter saw if you know how to use one. The shorter boards form a lot of the bracing that gives the table stability. Measure and trim these down as needed.\\nMake 3 battens 2.5 ft (76 cm) long. The battens are braces for the tabletop. Cut both ends at a 45-degree angle, angled oppositely away from the board’s center.\\nCut 2 boards about 2.33 ft (0.71 m) to form the table braces.\\nMake a pair of cleats by cutting the final 2 boards 11.33 in (28.8 cm) long. Cleats are supports for the benches.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Table Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay the 5 tabletop boards with their best side facedown.\", \"描述\": \"The side you place facedown will form the top of the table. You can lay the boards on a flat surface such as a patch of concrete or on sawhorses if you have them available. Position the boards so their ends align. Leave about ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) between each board.\\nTo space the boards properly, stick ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wood spacers or nails between them, then push them together.\\nIf you put the boards on sawhorses, clamp them in place so they can’t move while you’re working.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Glue the battens to the table boards.\", \"描述\": \"Measure about 16 in (41 cm) in from either of the table’s short ends. Place the cut battens there, then place a third batten directly in the middle of the table. Position the battens so they run across the width of the tabletop. Then, spread a waterproof polyurethane adhesive underneath each batten to hold it in place.\\nThe battens will be about 7 in (18 cm) from the table’s edges.\\nYou may need to use a caulking gun to spread the adhesive. Load the gun and trim the tip off the adhesive canister. Press the trigger to release a bead of adhesive. Move slowly across the width, or short side, of the table to lay a smooth string of the adhesive.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pre-drill holes in the battens before screwing them in place.\", \"描述\": \"Use a ⁄32 in (0.40 cm) drill bit on the ends of each batten. Create a single hole in the center of each end. Drill diagonally down at about a 45-degree angle towards the tabletop boards. Then, place a 4 in (10 cm) deck screw in each hole to secure the battens in place.\\nTo prevent the wood from cracking, always pre-drill holes before adding fasteners.\\nUse galvanized screws on the table. They are much stronger than nails while also being resistant to water.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the legs to the outer battens and clamp them together.\", \"描述\": \"Position the legs up against the inside edges of the battens, 2 per side. Make sure the legs are flush with the tabletop. They will point diagonally out from the battens, forming an A-shape. The table’s stance needs to be wide to give it plenty of stability.\\nPut some polyurethane adhesive under the legs to secure them to the tabletop.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw the legs to the battens with 3 in (7.6 cm) carriage bolts.\", \"描述\": \"Countersink the carriage bolts by first drilling a pair of 1 in (2.5 cm) holes about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) deep. Then, pre-drill a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) wide hole through the center of the first hole. Finish by screwing in the bolts.\\nPosition the holes along the edges where each leg and batten meet. Make the first hole near the bottom edge of the batten, closer to the center of the tabletop. Make the second hole along the top edge and near the batten’s outer edge.\\nLeave about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of space between the screws and the edges of the wood.\\nFor extra strength, screw a washer and nut onto the end of each bolt.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Measure about 13 in (33 cm) up the legs to position the bench support.\", \"描述\": \"Measure from the bottom of the legs and use a pencil to mark them. Then, raise the 2 bench supports up and clamp them firmly in place. The bench supports will run across the legs, preventing them from moving.\\nMake sure the bench supports extend beyond the legs. The bench supports also hold up the benches, which can’t happen without that extra length of wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Countersink the bench supports with 3 in (7.6 cm) carriage bolts.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the bench supports the same way you did the legs. Create 2 holes by drilling through the legs and into the supports. Position 1 hole along the bottom edge of the support and the leg’s centermost edge. Make the second hole opposite of the first.\\nRemember to drill a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole first, then drill a second, smaller hole directly in its center. Countersinking enables you to connect thin pieces of wood without breaking them.\\nPlace a washer and nut on the end of each bolt to strengthen it.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Screw the braces to the bench supports and middle batten.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure braces fit firmly in place before you attach them. Position them so they are flush with the batten and the top edge of the supports. When you’re sure they’re steady, use a ⁄32 in (0.40 cm) drill bit to pre-drill pilot holes. Finish the supports with several 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws.\\nMake the outer holes by drilling through the supports and into the braces. Make the inner holes by drilling through the braces and into the tabletop.\\nTo make your bench sturdy, install 2 screws on each end of the braces.\\nYou may need to measure and cut the braces again to make them fit. Use a speed square, pencil, and circular or miter saw for this.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Benches and Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Invert the table so it is standing on its legs.\", \"描述\": \"You are almost done constructing the table. Now is a good time to check its stability. Push against each component to see how sturdy the table feels. When you’re satisfied, you are ready to create the seats.\\nIf any component wiggles, it may not be sturdy. Make sure the boards are flush and screwed tightly together.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Align the bench boards together on a flat surface.\", \"描述\": \"Lay them on the ground or on a sawhorse. Make sure you put the better sides facedown, since they will form the top part of each seat. Keep the edges of the boards flush with one another and separate them using ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wood spacers or nails.\\nConnect 2 boards per bench. Keep the benches separate.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the cleats to each bench.\", \"描述\": \"Spread a line of polyurethane adhesive along the bench’s width. Then, press the cleat onto it directly in the center. Drill a pair of ⁄32 in (0.40 cm) wide pilot holes through each cleat and into the bench boards. Screw them in place with 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) deck screws.\\nPlace the holes about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) away from the edges of each cleat.\\nFor additional stability, create 4 more cleats. Place them as close to the ends of the benches as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw the bench boards to the support boards.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the benches over the supports so the cleats face the ground. Locate the points where each board meets the supports. Along the center of each board, drill down into the support. Place more 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws to secure the benches in place.\\nYou will need to create 2 holes for each board for a total of 4 holes per bench.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the corners off the tabletop at a 45 degree angle.\", \"描述\": \"Use a saber saw or router to round off the table’s edges. Remove about 2 in (5.1 cm) off of each corner. Work carefully to ensure the table looks even on all sides.\\nWhile doing this is optional, it is recommended to prevent injuries from anyone bumping into sharp corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Sand the table with 220-grit sandpaper.\", \"描述\": \"Rub the sandpaper lightly along the table’s grain. This will eliminate any splinters or rough edges. Feel the table with your hand afterwards. Make sure it feels smooth to the touch.\\nAvoid pressing too hard. If the sandpaper leaves scratches on the table, use less pressure.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Seal\", \"描述\": \"Try using a silicone or polyurethane sealer or wood stain. Spread the sealer or stain over the wood evenly with a rag, then let it dry for about 2 hours or the length of time specified by the manufacturer. Recoat the wood once or twice to protect your picnic table from the elements.\\nWood stain products turn the wood a darker color. Apply the stain in a light initial layer, then add more in subsequent layers until the table reaches the shade you desire.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Ask the employees at your local home improvement store for help. They will usually cut the wood for you if you provide a list of measurements.\\n\", \"Bolts and even wood screws are much stronger than nails. Avoid using nails when building a table.\\n\", \"Use weather and rot resistant lumber or synthetic decking material for a long-lasting table.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid wearing long-sleeved clothing, gloves, or jewelry while operating a saw.\\n\", \"Cutting wood and drilling wood can be dangerous. Always wear safety glasses and a dust mask to avoid injuries.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,461 |
How to Build a Piston Drawbridge in Minecraft
|
1. Steps
1-1. Dig a 4 long by 4 to 6 wide hole.
Make it 4 blocks deep.
1-2. Craft 6 sticky pistons.
Place them 2 blocks away from the width edge. Make sure that it's 1 away from the long edge, too.
If cheats are enabled, you can use the command /give @s 29 6
1-3. Place blocks on top of the pistons.
Connect redstone trails to the pistons.(but not the side center ones) Then, connect the 2 separate redstone trails together. Now take a redstone repeater and place it in between where the 2 separate trails connect.
1-4. Take 2 redstone repeaters.
Place them 1 block away from where the side center pistons are.
1-5. Make a staircase shape and place a lever at the top.
Connect redstone trail to the lever.
1-6. Test your contraption.
If it works, cover it all up and prepare for the next step. If not, try repeating the steps again, or toy around with it.
1-7. Craft some buckets.
Fill them with water or lava/magma.
1-8. Turn on the bridge.
If you covered the hole, then next to the bridge, dig 2 3x1 holes and cover the bottom of that. That will make a pasture shape if done correctly.
1-9. Pour your lava/water into the two indentations.
Refill the bucket(s) and continue to pour the contents into both sides. Keep pouring in the buckets until the holes are full, but not overflowing.
1-10. Now you have a drawbridge!
Make sure it works, and if you don't understand the instructions, watch Paul Soares Jr's Survive and Thrive Season 2 video on YouTube.
If you are a beginner, you can play the demo version of Minecraft without paying for it.
You have to register for an account and download a launcher.
Then you can play for 100 minutes for a maximum of five days.
Warnings
Be careful around lava.
This also applies for buildings too. Some blocks are flammable. (Wood and wool are an example.)
Make sure that you don't use flammable blocks if the drawbridge is going to have a lava moat. Use stone for lava moats (or any other type of stone-like items).
If you get stuck in the water, make sure to mine or dig a block out to get out the water to avoid drowning.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:53",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Dig a 4 long by 4 to 6 wide hole.\\nMake it 4 blocks deep.\\n1-2. Craft 6 sticky pistons.\\nPlace them 2 blocks away from the width edge. Make sure that it's 1 away from the long edge, too.\\nIf cheats are enabled, you can use the command /give @s 29 6\\n1-3. Place blocks on top of the pistons.\\nConnect redstone trails to the pistons.(but not the side center ones) Then, connect the 2 separate redstone trails together. Now take a redstone repeater and place it in between where the 2 separate trails connect.\\n1-4. Take 2 redstone repeaters.\\nPlace them 1 block away from where the side center pistons are.\\n1-5. Make a staircase shape and place a lever at the top.\\nConnect redstone trail to the lever.\\n1-6. Test your contraption.\\nIf it works, cover it all up and prepare for the next step. If not, try repeating the steps again, or toy around with it.\\n1-7. Craft some buckets.\\nFill them with water or lava/magma.\\n1-8. Turn on the bridge.\\nIf you covered the hole, then next to the bridge, dig 2 3x1 holes and cover the bottom of that. That will make a pasture shape if done correctly.\\n1-9. Pour your lava/water into the two indentations.\\nRefill the bucket(s) and continue to pour the contents into both sides. Keep pouring in the buckets until the holes are full, but not overflowing.\\n1-10. Now you have a drawbridge!\\nMake sure it works, and if you don't understand the instructions, watch Paul Soares Jr's Survive and Thrive Season 2 video on YouTube.\\nIf you are a beginner, you can play the demo version of Minecraft without paying for it.\\nYou have to register for an account and download a launcher.\\nThen you can play for 100 minutes for a maximum of five days.\\nWarnings\\nBe careful around lava.\\nThis also applies for buildings too. Some blocks are flammable. (Wood and wool are an example.)\\nMake sure that you don't use flammable blocks if the drawbridge is going to have a lava moat. Use stone for lava moats (or any other type of stone-like items).\\nIf you get stuck in the water, make sure to mine or dig a block out to get out the water to avoid drowning.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you have a castle in Minecraft? Do you want to make a drawbridge? Here are the instructions.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig a 4 long by 4 to 6 wide hole.\", \"描述\": \"Make it 4 blocks deep.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Craft 6 sticky pistons.\", \"描述\": \"Place them 2 blocks away from the width edge. Make sure that it's 1 away from the long edge, too.\\nIf cheats are enabled, you can use the command /give @s 29 6\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place blocks on top of the pistons.\", \"描述\": \"Connect redstone trails to the pistons.(but not the side center ones) Then, connect the 2 separate redstone trails together. Now take a redstone repeater and place it in between where the 2 separate trails connect.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take 2 redstone repeaters.\", \"描述\": \"Place them 1 block away from where the side center pistons are.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make a staircase shape and place a lever at the top.\", \"描述\": \"Connect redstone trail to the lever.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Test your contraption.\", \"描述\": \"If it works, cover it all up and prepare for the next step. If not, try repeating the steps again, or toy around with it.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Craft some buckets.\", \"描述\": \"Fill them with water or lava/magma.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Turn on the bridge.\", \"描述\": \"If you covered the hole, then next to the bridge, dig 2 3x1 holes and cover the bottom of that. That will make a pasture shape if done correctly.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Pour your lava/water into the two indentations.\", \"描述\": \"Refill the bucket(s) and continue to pour the contents into both sides. Keep pouring in the buckets until the holes are full, but not overflowing.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Now you have a drawbridge!\", \"描述\": \"Make sure it works, and if you don't understand the instructions, watch Paul Soares Jr's Survive and Thrive Season 2 video on YouTube.\\nIf you are a beginner, you can play the demo version of Minecraft without paying for it.\\nYou have to register for an account and download a launcher.\\nThen you can play for 100 minutes for a maximum of five days.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful around lava.\\n\", \"This also applies for buildings too. Some blocks are flammable. (Wood and wool are an example.)\\n\", \"Make sure that you don't use flammable blocks if the drawbridge is going to have a lava moat. Use stone for lava moats (or any other type of stone-like items).\\n\", \"If you get stuck in the water, make sure to mine or dig a block out to get out the water to avoid drowning.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,462 |
How to Build a Pitchers Mound
|
1. Measuring Distance, Alignment, and Height
1-1. Situate the pitcher's mound directly in line with home plate.
There should be a clear path longer than 60 feet (18.29 meters) between the pitcher’s mound and home plate. The line from home plate through the pitcher’s mound to second base should run east-northeast to keep the sun out of the pitcher’s eyes.
1-2. Place the pitcher’s plate 60 ft 6 in (18.44 m) from the back of home plate.
Measure the distance from the back of home plate to the front of the pitcher’s plate with a tape measurer. The pitcher’s plate is a rubber rectangle that is 24 in (610 mm) long. Align the middle of the pitcher’s plate with the middle of home plate.
1-3. Ensure the pitcher’s plate is 10 in (254 mm) taller than home plate.
Use a transit level to take a reading from home plate and a reading from the pitcher’s plate. Fill in the area around the pitcher’s plate with a mixture of clay, sand, and dirt until it is 10 in (254 mm) taller than home plate. Then, place the pitcher’s plate firmly on top of the dirt.
2. Constructing the Pitcher’s Collar
2-1. Place a stake 18 in (457 mm) in front of the pitcher’s plate.
This will be the center of the mound. It should be 59 ft (17.98 meters) from the back of home plate.
2-2. Mark a circle around the stake that’s 18 ft (5.5 m) in diameter.
Attach a string to the stake and measure the string to exactly 9 ft (2.75 m). Keep the string taut and walk in a circle around the stake, using chalk or another marker to outline the circle on the ground. This will be the pitching mound.
2-3. Remove the turf inside the circle.
To create a permanent boundary line for the collar, use a spade to remove the turf or grass inside the 18-ft (5.5-m) diameter. The collar should be dirt rather than grass or turf to give the pitcher more stability.
3. Building the Pitcher’s Plateau
3-1. Mark a 5 ft (1.5 m) by 3 ft (0.92 m) rectangle around the pitcher’s plate.
The longer sides of the rectangle should be 6 in (152 mm) in front of the rubber and 24 in (610 mm) behind the rubber. The shorter sides should be 18 in (457 mm) from each side of the rubber.
3-2. Dig out the existing soil inside the rectangle.
Use a pick and a shovel to remove the existing soil to a depth of about 6 in (152 mm). Take care not to disturb the pitcher’s plate.
3-3. Place clay bricks in the rectangle and tamp them down.
Add a single layer of clay bricks designed for pitcher’s mounds to provide durability to the plateau and reduce the need for frequent maintenance. You can find them at specialty sports stores and online. Use a tamp to ensure the bricks will stay in place.
4. Constructing Proper Mound Slope
4-1. Place a 1 in by 4 in by 4 ft board on top of the pitcher’s plate.
The 4-in (102 mm) side of the board should rest on the pitcher’s plate while the 1 in (25 mm) sides face outward. The entire length of the 4 ft (1.2 m) board should be parallel to the pitcher’s plate.
4-2. Rest a 10 ft by 2 in by 4 in board on top of the other board.
Rest the 2-in (51-mm) side on top of the other board with the 4 in (102 mm) sides facing outward. The entire length of the 10-ft (3 m) board should be angled down toward one edge of the plateau so that you can use the long board to distribute dirt for the mound.
4-3. Dump a wheelbarrow full of dirt and clay in front of the longer board.
Spread the mixture out along the length of the board.
4-4. Use the long board to spread the dirt out.
Situate one person at each end of the long board. Keep one end of the board resting on the pitcher’s plate and use that as your pivot point.The person with the far end of the board (not the pivot point) should slowly move from one end of the plateau to the other, using the board to distribute the dirt over the mound.
4-5. Ensure your slope measurements are accurate.
The slope from the pitcher’s plate should begin 6 in (152.4 mm) in front of the rubber, and slope toward home plate 1 in (25.4 mm) for every 1 ft (0.3 meters). Measure the height with a transit level, and use the clay and dirt mixture to fill in any low spots.
4-6. Tamp and rake the mound.
Once the mound has taken shape, pound the surface area of the mound with a tamp to ensure there are no loose areas. Then, use a rake to remove any pebbles or chunks of grass and smooth out the dirt.
4-7. Moisten the mound with water.
Use a hose to lightly wet the area. The water will soak into the mound and firmly set the clay. Regular watering also will prevent the mound from cracking or eroding.
Tips
Cover your mound with a tarp when it isn't being used. This will prevent the elements from drying out your pitcher's mound or washing it into the turf.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:53",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Measuring Distance, Alignment, and Height\\n1-1. Situate the pitcher's mound directly in line with home plate.\\nThere should be a clear path longer than 60 feet (18.29 meters) between the pitcher’s mound and home plate. The line from home plate through the pitcher’s mound to second base should run east-northeast to keep the sun out of the pitcher’s eyes.\\n1-2. Place the pitcher’s plate 60 ft 6 in (18.44 m) from the back of home plate.\\nMeasure the distance from the back of home plate to the front of the pitcher’s plate with a tape measurer. The pitcher’s plate is a rubber rectangle that is 24 in (610 mm) long. Align the middle of the pitcher’s plate with the middle of home plate.\\n1-3. Ensure the pitcher’s plate is 10 in (254 mm) taller than home plate.\\nUse a transit level to take a reading from home plate and a reading from the pitcher’s plate. Fill in the area around the pitcher’s plate with a mixture of clay, sand, and dirt until it is 10 in (254 mm) taller than home plate. Then, place the pitcher’s plate firmly on top of the dirt.\\n2. Constructing the Pitcher’s Collar\\n2-1. Place a stake 18 in (457 mm) in front of the pitcher’s plate.\\nThis will be the center of the mound. It should be 59 ft (17.98 meters) from the back of home plate.\\n2-2. Mark a circle around the stake that’s 18 ft (5.5 m) in diameter.\\nAttach a string to the stake and measure the string to exactly 9 ft (2.75 m). Keep the string taut and walk in a circle around the stake, using chalk or another marker to outline the circle on the ground. This will be the pitching mound.\\n2-3. Remove the turf inside the circle.\\nTo create a permanent boundary line for the collar, use a spade to remove the turf or grass inside the 18-ft (5.5-m) diameter. The collar should be dirt rather than grass or turf to give the pitcher more stability.\\n3. Building the Pitcher’s Plateau\\n3-1. Mark a 5 ft (1.5 m) by 3 ft (0.92 m) rectangle around the pitcher’s plate.\\nThe longer sides of the rectangle should be 6 in (152 mm) in front of the rubber and 24 in (610 mm) behind the rubber. The shorter sides should be 18 in (457 mm) from each side of the rubber.\\n3-2. Dig out the existing soil inside the rectangle.\\nUse a pick and a shovel to remove the existing soil to a depth of about 6 in (152 mm). Take care not to disturb the pitcher’s plate.\\n3-3. Place clay bricks in the rectangle and tamp them down.\\nAdd a single layer of clay bricks designed for pitcher’s mounds to provide durability to the plateau and reduce the need for frequent maintenance. You can find them at specialty sports stores and online. Use a tamp to ensure the bricks will stay in place.\\n4. Constructing Proper Mound Slope\\n4-1. Place a 1 in by 4 in by 4 ft board on top of the pitcher’s plate.\\nThe 4-in (102 mm) side of the board should rest on the pitcher’s plate while the 1 in (25 mm) sides face outward. The entire length of the 4 ft (1.2 m) board should be parallel to the pitcher’s plate.\\n4-2. Rest a 10 ft by 2 in by 4 in board on top of the other board.\\nRest the 2-in (51-mm) side on top of the other board with the 4 in (102 mm) sides facing outward. The entire length of the 10-ft (3 m) board should be angled down toward one edge of the plateau so that you can use the long board to distribute dirt for the mound.\\n4-3. Dump a wheelbarrow full of dirt and clay in front of the longer board.\\nSpread the mixture out along the length of the board.\\n4-4. Use the long board to spread the dirt out.\\nSituate one person at each end of the long board. Keep one end of the board resting on the pitcher’s plate and use that as your pivot point.The person with the far end of the board (not the pivot point) should slowly move from one end of the plateau to the other, using the board to distribute the dirt over the mound.\\n4-5. Ensure your slope measurements are accurate.\\nThe slope from the pitcher’s plate should begin 6 in (152.4 mm) in front of the rubber, and slope toward home plate 1 in (25.4 mm) for every 1 ft (0.3 meters). Measure the height with a transit level, and use the clay and dirt mixture to fill in any low spots.\\n4-6. Tamp and rake the mound.\\nOnce the mound has taken shape, pound the surface area of the mound with a tamp to ensure there are no loose areas. Then, use a rake to remove any pebbles or chunks of grass and smooth out the dirt.\\n4-7. Moisten the mound with water.\\nUse a hose to lightly wet the area. The water will soak into the mound and firmly set the clay. Regular watering also will prevent the mound from cracking or eroding.\\nTips\\nCover your mound with a tarp when it isn't being used. This will prevent the elements from drying out your pitcher's mound or washing it into the turf.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A regulation pitcher's mound is a raised section in the middle of a baseball diamond where a pitcher stands to throw a pitch. A pitcher's mound is typically made of clay, sand, and dirt. Measure the distances carefully to ensure your mound will be to regulation, and avoid falling into the common trap of placing the pitcher’s plate in the middle of the pitcher’s mound.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measuring Distance, Alignment, and Height\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Situate the pitcher's mound directly in line with home plate.\", \"描述\": \"There should be a clear path longer than 60 feet (18.29 meters) between the pitcher’s mound and home plate. The line from home plate through the pitcher’s mound to second base should run east-northeast to keep the sun out of the pitcher’s eyes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the pitcher’s plate 60 ft 6 in (18.44 m) from the back of home plate.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the distance from the back of home plate to the front of the pitcher’s plate with a tape measurer. The pitcher’s plate is a rubber rectangle that is 24 in (610 mm) long. Align the middle of the pitcher’s plate with the middle of home plate.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ensure the pitcher’s plate is 10 in (254 mm) taller than home plate.\", \"描述\": \"Use a transit level to take a reading from home plate and a reading from the pitcher’s plate. Fill in the area around the pitcher’s plate with a mixture of clay, sand, and dirt until it is 10 in (254 mm) taller than home plate. Then, place the pitcher’s plate firmly on top of the dirt.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Pitcher’s Collar\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place a stake 18 in (457 mm) in front of the pitcher’s plate.\", \"描述\": \"This will be the center of the mound. It should be 59 ft (17.98 meters) from the back of home plate.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark a circle around the stake that’s 18 ft (5.5 m) in diameter.\", \"描述\": \"Attach a string to the stake and measure the string to exactly 9 ft (2.75 m). Keep the string taut and walk in a circle around the stake, using chalk or another marker to outline the circle on the ground. This will be the pitching mound.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the turf inside the circle.\", \"描述\": \"To create a permanent boundary line for the collar, use a spade to remove the turf or grass inside the 18-ft (5.5-m) diameter. The collar should be dirt rather than grass or turf to give the pitcher more stability.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Pitcher’s Plateau\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark a 5 ft (1.5 m) by 3 ft (0.92 m) rectangle around the pitcher’s plate.\", \"描述\": \"The longer sides of the rectangle should be 6 in (152 mm) in front of the rubber and 24 in (610 mm) behind the rubber. The shorter sides should be 18 in (457 mm) from each side of the rubber.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig out the existing soil inside the rectangle.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pick and a shovel to remove the existing soil to a depth of about 6 in (152 mm). Take care not to disturb the pitcher’s plate.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place clay bricks in the rectangle and tamp them down.\", \"描述\": \"Add a single layer of clay bricks designed for pitcher’s mounds to provide durability to the plateau and reduce the need for frequent maintenance. You can find them at specialty sports stores and online. Use a tamp to ensure the bricks will stay in place.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Constructing Proper Mound Slope\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place a 1 in by 4 in by 4 ft board on top of the pitcher’s plate.\", \"描述\": \"The 4-in (102 mm) side of the board should rest on the pitcher’s plate while the 1 in (25 mm) sides face outward. The entire length of the 4 ft (1.2 m) board should be parallel to the pitcher’s plate.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Rest a 10 ft by 2 in by 4 in board on top of the other board.\", \"描述\": \"Rest the 2-in (51-mm) side on top of the other board with the 4 in (102 mm) sides facing outward. The entire length of the 10-ft (3 m) board should be angled down toward one edge of the plateau so that you can use the long board to distribute dirt for the mound.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dump a wheelbarrow full of dirt and clay in front of the longer board.\", \"描述\": \"Spread the mixture out along the length of the board.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use the long board to spread the dirt out.\", \"描述\": \"Situate one person at each end of the long board. Keep one end of the board resting on the pitcher’s plate and use that as your pivot point.The person with the far end of the board (not the pivot point) should slowly move from one end of the plateau to the other, using the board to distribute the dirt over the mound.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Ensure your slope measurements are accurate.\", \"描述\": \"The slope from the pitcher’s plate should begin 6 in (152.4 mm) in front of the rubber, and slope toward home plate 1 in (25.4 mm) for every 1 ft (0.3 meters). Measure the height with a transit level, and use the clay and dirt mixture to fill in any low spots.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Tamp and rake the mound.\", \"描述\": \"Once the mound has taken shape, pound the surface area of the mound with a tamp to ensure there are no loose areas. Then, use a rake to remove any pebbles or chunks of grass and smooth out the dirt.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Moisten the mound with water.\", \"描述\": \"Use a hose to lightly wet the area. The water will soak into the mound and firmly set the clay. Regular watering also will prevent the mound from cracking or eroding.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Cover your mound with a tarp when it isn't being used. This will prevent the elements from drying out your pitcher's mound or washing it into the turf.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,463 |
How to Build a Planter Box Wheelbarrow
|
1. Steps
1-1. Select the wood you want to use for your wheelbarrow.
Cedar is a good choice, since it is free of preservatives and naturally resists rot and decay. Plus, it is easier to work with than hardwoods or tightly grained softwoods such as pine that are more likely to warp and split.
1-2. Build a simple, basic box suitable for your needs.
The one in this illustration is 18 inches (46cm) wide, 22 inches (56cm) long, but the final size depends upon your needs.
1-3. Rip two pieces of sound 2 inch (5cm) thick lumber on a taper from about 1 1/4 inches to 2 inches (3cm to 5cm) and around 4 feet (1.2 meters) long.
These pieces will be the main supports, serving as both the mounting frame for the wheel and for the handles, so choosing good lumber is important.
1-4. Lay these handles on a table, placing them at an angle that will allow the grip ends to be spread apart far enough for you to use them, and with the wide end almost touching.
Scribe a pair of parallel lines on the thicker end so you will have a pocket for the wheel/axle assembly to mount in.
1-5. Cut these two lines with a circular saw.
Then scribe a block to fasten the two handles together, staying back about 12 inches (30cm) from the end you are using for the wheel mount.
1-6. Build your wheel by gluing and screwing layers of 1 inch (2.5cm) thick boards together at opposite angles.
Three layers will give you a wheel about 2 inches (5cm) thick, using two 1 X 6 inch (2.5cm x 15cm) planks will allow you to cut a wheel 11 inches (28cm) in diameter, as shown in the illustrations.
1-7. Scribe a circle on the blank you built for building the wheel.
Then cut it out with a jigsaw or band saw.
1-8. Drill the handle frame and the center of the wheel to accommodate an all-thread rod.
A 1/2 inch (1.5cm) galvanized rod will give you a fairly stout axle. Put a nut on the all-thread, running it down about 3 inches (7.5cm), then add a flat washer. Thread your rod through one handle, and start a nut on the end where it passes through the handle. Tighten it so that it pulls into the wood if possible, to make it stationary.
1-9. Place a washer on the rod, then pass it through the wheel.
Add another washer, then another nut, before allowing it to pass through the second handle. Add a final nut on the outside of the second handle, and tighten it securely. Make sure the space between the wheel and its washer spacers is fairly tight, but not too tight, so the wheel cannot wobble.
1-10. Install the handle/wheel assembly on the bottom of the box you built earlier.
You can begin by laying this assembly on the inverted box and marking the edges of the handles so you can fit the next piece in the correct location.
1-11. Cut two wedges from 2 x 4 inch (5cm x 10cm) material, the same length as the box.
Lay them on the lines you marked earlier and fasten them with wood screws.
1-12. Lay your wheel and handle assembly on these wedges, and screw them in place.
Add your legs and braces, using 2 X 2 inch (5cm x 5cm) material scribed on the angle of the handles so that they support the wheelbarrow in the position you want. You can let these legs run wild (cut longer than needed) so you can trim them when you have completed the project.
1-13. Cut and install a cross brace between the wheelbarrow support legs to keep it from wobbling.
You can now set the wheelbarrow right side up and check it to make sure it sits correctly. There are a number of simple ways of adjusting the way the wheelbarrow sets, including adding wedges underneath the box, and trimming the support legs.
1-14. Sand edges smooth if desired, and seal or paint the wheelbarrow with an exterior coating.
You can line the wheelbarrow box with plastic to give it more protection from moisture if you are going to use it for a planter, but if you use a good, exterior grade wood, it should last for a long time with just a sealer on it.
Tips
Use exterior grade fasteners like galvanized nails or wood screws, and waterproof wood glue for best results.
You can modify the size and shape of the box, wheel, and other elements to suit your needs, the sizes mentioned in the article are for reference only.
Use a good, rot resistant wood like cedar or redwood for this project, if you have some available.
Warnings
Wear eye protection when using power tools.
Sand all cut edges of lumber to prevent splinters.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:53",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Select the wood you want to use for your wheelbarrow.\\nCedar is a good choice, since it is free of preservatives and naturally resists rot and decay. Plus, it is easier to work with than hardwoods or tightly grained softwoods such as pine that are more likely to warp and split.\\n1-2. Build a simple, basic box suitable for your needs.\\nThe one in this illustration is 18 inches (46cm) wide, 22 inches (56cm) long, but the final size depends upon your needs.\\n1-3. Rip two pieces of sound 2 inch (5cm) thick lumber on a taper from about 1 1/4 inches to 2 inches (3cm to 5cm) and around 4 feet (1.2 meters) long.\\nThese pieces will be the main supports, serving as both the mounting frame for the wheel and for the handles, so choosing good lumber is important.\\n1-4. Lay these handles on a table, placing them at an angle that will allow the grip ends to be spread apart far enough for you to use them, and with the wide end almost touching.\\nScribe a pair of parallel lines on the thicker end so you will have a pocket for the wheel/axle assembly to mount in.\\n1-5. Cut these two lines with a circular saw.\\nThen scribe a block to fasten the two handles together, staying back about 12 inches (30cm) from the end you are using for the wheel mount.\\n1-6. Build your wheel by gluing and screwing layers of 1 inch (2.5cm) thick boards together at opposite angles.\\nThree layers will give you a wheel about 2 inches (5cm) thick, using two 1 X 6 inch (2.5cm x 15cm) planks will allow you to cut a wheel 11 inches (28cm) in diameter, as shown in the illustrations.\\n1-7. Scribe a circle on the blank you built for building the wheel.\\nThen cut it out with a jigsaw or band saw.\\n1-8. Drill the handle frame and the center of the wheel to accommodate an all-thread rod.\\nA 1/2 inch (1.5cm) galvanized rod will give you a fairly stout axle. Put a nut on the all-thread, running it down about 3 inches (7.5cm), then add a flat washer. Thread your rod through one handle, and start a nut on the end where it passes through the handle. Tighten it so that it pulls into the wood if possible, to make it stationary.\\n1-9. Place a washer on the rod, then pass it through the wheel.\\nAdd another washer, then another nut, before allowing it to pass through the second handle. Add a final nut on the outside of the second handle, and tighten it securely. Make sure the space between the wheel and its washer spacers is fairly tight, but not too tight, so the wheel cannot wobble.\\n1-10. Install the handle/wheel assembly on the bottom of the box you built earlier.\\nYou can begin by laying this assembly on the inverted box and marking the edges of the handles so you can fit the next piece in the correct location.\\n1-11. Cut two wedges from 2 x 4 inch (5cm x 10cm) material, the same length as the box.\\nLay them on the lines you marked earlier and fasten them with wood screws.\\n1-12. Lay your wheel and handle assembly on these wedges, and screw them in place.\\nAdd your legs and braces, using 2 X 2 inch (5cm x 5cm) material scribed on the angle of the handles so that they support the wheelbarrow in the position you want. You can let these legs run wild (cut longer than needed) so you can trim them when you have completed the project.\\n1-13. Cut and install a cross brace between the wheelbarrow support legs to keep it from wobbling.\\nYou can now set the wheelbarrow right side up and check it to make sure it sits correctly. There are a number of simple ways of adjusting the way the wheelbarrow sets, including adding wedges underneath the box, and trimming the support legs.\\n1-14. Sand edges smooth if desired, and seal or paint the wheelbarrow with an exterior coating.\\nYou can line the wheelbarrow box with plastic to give it more protection from moisture if you are going to use it for a planter, but if you use a good, exterior grade wood, it should last for a long time with just a sealer on it.\\nTips\\nUse exterior grade fasteners like galvanized nails or wood screws, and waterproof wood glue for best results.\\nYou can modify the size and shape of the box, wheel, and other elements to suit your needs, the sizes mentioned in the article are for reference only.\\nUse a good, rot resistant wood like cedar or redwood for this project, if you have some available.\\nWarnings\\nWear eye protection when using power tools.\\nSand all cut edges of lumber to prevent splinters.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Modern construction wheelbarrows are relatively inexpensive, durable, and easy to use. But if you're looking for a more rustic, a decorative wheelbarrow, for use as a planter box or to display something, here are some steps to help you build your own.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select the wood you want to use for your wheelbarrow.\", \"描述\": \"Cedar is a good choice, since it is free of preservatives and naturally resists rot and decay. Plus, it is easier to work with than hardwoods or tightly grained softwoods such as pine that are more likely to warp and split.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a simple, basic box suitable for your needs.\", \"描述\": \"The one in this illustration is 18 inches (46cm) wide, 22 inches (56cm) long, but the final size depends upon your needs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Rip two pieces of sound 2 inch (5cm) thick lumber on a taper from about 1 1/4 inches to 2 inches (3cm to 5cm) and around 4 feet (1.2 meters) long.\", \"描述\": \"These pieces will be the main supports, serving as both the mounting frame for the wheel and for the handles, so choosing good lumber is important.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay these handles on a table, placing them at an angle that will allow the grip ends to be spread apart far enough for you to use them, and with the wide end almost touching.\", \"描述\": \"Scribe a pair of parallel lines on the thicker end so you will have a pocket for the wheel/axle assembly to mount in.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut these two lines with a circular saw.\", \"描述\": \"Then scribe a block to fasten the two handles together, staying back about 12 inches (30cm) from the end you are using for the wheel mount.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build your wheel by gluing and screwing layers of 1 inch (2.5cm) thick boards together at opposite angles.\", \"描述\": \"Three layers will give you a wheel about 2 inches (5cm) thick, using two 1 X 6 inch (2.5cm x 15cm) planks will allow you to cut a wheel 11 inches (28cm) in diameter, as shown in the illustrations.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Scribe a circle on the blank you built for building the wheel.\", \"描述\": \"Then cut it out with a jigsaw or band saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Drill the handle frame and the center of the wheel to accommodate an all-thread rod.\", \"描述\": \"A 1/2 inch (1.5cm) galvanized rod will give you a fairly stout axle. Put a nut on the all-thread, running it down about 3 inches (7.5cm), then add a flat washer. Thread your rod through one handle, and start a nut on the end where it passes through the handle. Tighten it so that it pulls into the wood if possible, to make it stationary.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place a washer on the rod, then pass it through the wheel.\", \"描述\": \"Add another washer, then another nut, before allowing it to pass through the second handle. Add a final nut on the outside of the second handle, and tighten it securely. Make sure the space between the wheel and its washer spacers is fairly tight, but not too tight, so the wheel cannot wobble.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Install the handle/wheel assembly on the bottom of the box you built earlier.\", \"描述\": \"You can begin by laying this assembly on the inverted box and marking the edges of the handles so you can fit the next piece in the correct location.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Cut two wedges from 2 x 4 inch (5cm x 10cm) material, the same length as the box.\", \"描述\": \"Lay them on the lines you marked earlier and fasten them with wood screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Lay your wheel and handle assembly on these wedges, and screw them in place.\", \"描述\": \"Add your legs and braces, using 2 X 2 inch (5cm x 5cm) material scribed on the angle of the handles so that they support the wheelbarrow in the position you want. You can let these legs run wild (cut longer than needed) so you can trim them when you have completed the project.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Cut and install a cross brace between the wheelbarrow support legs to keep it from wobbling.\", \"描述\": \"You can now set the wheelbarrow right side up and check it to make sure it sits correctly. There are a number of simple ways of adjusting the way the wheelbarrow sets, including adding wedges underneath the box, and trimming the support legs.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Sand edges smooth if desired, and seal or paint the wheelbarrow with an exterior coating.\", \"描述\": \"You can line the wheelbarrow box with plastic to give it more protection from moisture if you are going to use it for a planter, but if you use a good, exterior grade wood, it should last for a long time with just a sealer on it.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use exterior grade fasteners like galvanized nails or wood screws, and waterproof wood glue for best results.\\n\", \"You can modify the size and shape of the box, wheel, and other elements to suit your needs, the sizes mentioned in the article are for reference only.\\n\", \"Use a good, rot resistant wood like cedar or redwood for this project, if you have some available.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wear eye protection when using power tools.\\n\", \"Sand all cut edges of lumber to prevent splinters.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,464 |
How to Build a Planter Box from Pallets
|
1. Creating a Basic Planter with Garden Fabric
1-1. Scrub down the pallet if it's dirty and sand any rough edges.
Use a bit of dish soap dissolved in water to scrub it down with a sturdy brush. Rinse it off with a hose. Once it dries enough that it doesn't feel rough to the touch, use heavy sandpaper to smooth down any edges that are too splintery.
Sanding the edges isn't absolutely necessary, but it will keep you from picking up as many splinters in your hands.
You can find free pallets at may retail locations, such as pet stores, farm and tractor stores, liquor stores, and even schools. You might also find them at construction sites. Always ask before taking a pallet. Also, never take a pallet that's marked with "Property of..." or a company name. You can also purchase pallets at home improvement stores.
1-2. Cut garden fabric to fit the back and sides of the pallet.
Turn the pallet over and lay the garden fabric out over the back. Cut it large enough to completely cover the back, leaving enough room to go up the sides of the pallet, too, to help keep the soil in.
The "back" of the pallet will be the side that has the most slats. You want the openings on the front/top of the pallet.
"Garden fabric" is also called "weed barrier" fabric, as it's meant to suppress weeds when you layer it over an area. You can find it at most home improvement stores and garden centers.
1-3. Staple the fabric to the back of the pallet, starting on the outer edges.
On the back of the pallet, place a staple in the middle of one side of the pallet. Stretch it out and put a staple in the middle on the opposite side. Do the same for the other 2 sides and then fill in the rest of the edges with staples, stretching it a little as you do.
You don't need to stretch it very taut, but you should try to tighten it a little so it doesn't have too much slack.
1-4. Attach the fabric to the sides with a staple gun.
Flip the pallet over. Pull the fabric up each side. Staple it in place near the top of each side. At the corners, fold the fabric flat into a triangle shape and lay it flat against the pallet to staple it in place.
If you need to, trim off the fabric around the top edge.
1-5. Fill the planter with soil and put your plants in the soil.
Dump the soil in, working around the planks as you go. Add plants to each section of the planter by digging small holes and inserting the plants. Cover the bottom of the plants and then water the soil thoroughly.
Make sure you have the planter where you want it before adding the soil or watering it.
2. Making a Planter from Pallet Sections
2-1. Cut a pallet into thirds.
Start with a pallet that has 6, 9, or 12 planks across the front, as that will make it easier to cut into thirds. For instance, if it has 9 planks, cut between the third and fourth plank and then the 6th and 7th plank. Use a hand saw or jigsaw to cut down the center between the planks. You'll need to cut through each cross board on the front.
Once you're done, flip it over and cut it in the same places on the back.
Pull the pallet apart into thirds. You should have 2 side pieces and 1 middle piece.
2-2. Pull off the small slats on the back of the side pieces.
When you flip the side pieces over, you should see small slats sticking out from the long piece of wood. Use a hammer to pry the slats off gently as you want to keep them intact. Wedge the claw under the edge of the wood that's still attached and use the hammer to leverage the piece off.
As you go along, hammer in any nails that are sticking up so they're flat against the boards.
2-3. Remove the planks and wooden blocks from the center piece.
On the back of the center piece, you should see square wooden blocks with small planks on top. Use your hammer to wedge these pieces off, keeping the wooden blocks intact as you go.
You may need to use a chisel to wedge the wooden blocks off the center piece.
Continue to flatten any nails you see sticking up by hammering them into place.
2-4. Cut off the edges of the planks that stick out on the center piece.
When looking at the center piece, you should see 3 long boards (if you started with a pallet that had 9 planks) and smaller boards running perpendicularly across the long boards. The small boards likely extend over the edges of the long boards so trim them off with a handsaw or jigsaw so they're flush with the edges of the long boards.
2-5. Remove the "feet" from the boards you laid to the side with a splitting wedge.
You set aside planks with wooden blocks on them earlier. Place a splitting wedge between the board and the wooden blocks. Drive a sledge hammer against the end of the edge to cut the nails between the blocks and boards.
If you want to skip this step, you could just screw the boards onto the bottom of the planter with the blocks still attached.
A splitting wedge is a tool that's cut into a wedge shape. You place the sharp end between 2 things you want to separate, then hit the broad end with a sledge hammer.
2-6. Screw or nail the middle piece into the side pieces.
Turn the middle piece over. Set the side pieces across from each other up so that the wooden blocks are on the inside and at the top of the boards, while you prop the middle piece on top, which will become the bottom piece. This part will be a little difficult to balance as you need to prop it up and screw it in at the same time. Line the middle piece up with the wooden blocks from the sides and screw or nail them into place.
Place 2-3 screws or nails through the bottom piece into each of the the wooden blocks.
Turn the planter right-side up!
2-7. Place the leftover planks on the ends to make the other sides.
You should have a u-shaped planter with the ends still open. Place the leftover planks on the ends, lining them up with the side boards. Screw them into place on top of the side and bottom boards. You may need to cobble together a couple of pieces to form 2 of the planks on the side.
2-8. Screw the feet in at an angle.
Turn the planter over again. Place the wooden blocks at the corners of the planters. Angle 2 3-inch (8 cm) screws on each foot so they go through the side of the feet and into the bottom of the planter. Drill the screws into each wooden block to hold the feet in place.
Turn the planter back over.
To finish the planter, add a layer of chicken wire or garden fabric to the inside of the planter, which will keep the soil inside. You may want to staple the fabric in place so that it doesn't move around too much.
3. Creating a Planter from Pallet Boards
3-1. Decide how big you want your planter to be.
If you want a square box, you could use 20 in (51 cm) pieces, along with skinnier pieces for a frame. If you want a rectangle, you'll need some longer pieces and some shorter pieces. However, you should decide ahead of time so you can judge how you want to cut the pallet as you pull it apart.
If you wanted a rectangle, you could use 20 in (51 cm) pieces for 2 sides and 16 in (41 cm) for the other sides.
3-2. Take the pallet apart until you have planks and wooden blocks.
Use the claw end of the hammer to wedge apart all the boards until you have completely taken the pallet apart. With some boards, you may need to use a splitting wedge and a mallet. Push the splitting wedge in between the boards and hit the end with the mallet.
If you're not going to use the full length of the boards, you can simply saw off the ends of the pallet to make the boards easier to remove. That way, you'll only need to wedge the boards off in the middle.
3-3. Build the base with 2 longer planks and several shorter planks.
Lay out 2 long planks parallel to each other. Aim for lengths of that are about the same size as your longest side, such as 20 inches (51 cm), plus the width of the wood. Across the planks, lay out smaller planks that are equal in length to your shortest side, such as 16 inches (41 cm). Place the smaller planks up against each other so they form a solid base for your planter. Leave a space on each edge of the long planks that's about the width of the wood, as you'll build up the sides off that area.
Nail the smaller boards onto the longer boards.
3-4. Begin building the walls up.
When putting your side walls in place, try to offset them at the corners. That is, when setting down 1 plank on its side, it should go all the way to the corner edge on one end but leave just enough space on the other end for the next side to come all the way into that corner. Nail the pieces into the base, as you should have left enough space that the boards sink down a little and you can nail it in from the side at an angle.
3-5. Put in corner posts to stabilize your work.
Place a small piece of wood in each corner of the box and nail them into the bottom with your nails at an angle. You may need to cut a board in half to get a smaller piece of wood.
These posts will provide something for you to nail into as you build your walls up.
3-6. Continue building the walls up.
As you build up, continue to offset the boards but alternate which board goes to the corner on each layer. For instance, if a shorter side goes all the way to the corner on one layer, the longer side should go all the way to that corner on the next layer. As you make your walls, nail them into the corner posts and into each other at the sides, creating a stable structure.
You can make your walls as high as you want, but you probably shouldn't go more than 3-4 planks high as it will get unwieldy.
3-7. Sand and paint your planter as desired.
Use heavy sandpaper to sand the rough edges of your planter down. You can use a power sander if you'd like. After that, you can leave the planter as is or you can add a thin coat of paint to it for decoration.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:53",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating a Basic Planter with Garden Fabric\\n1-1. Scrub down the pallet if it's dirty and sand any rough edges.\\nUse a bit of dish soap dissolved in water to scrub it down with a sturdy brush. Rinse it off with a hose. Once it dries enough that it doesn't feel rough to the touch, use heavy sandpaper to smooth down any edges that are too splintery.\\nSanding the edges isn't absolutely necessary, but it will keep you from picking up as many splinters in your hands.\\nYou can find free pallets at may retail locations, such as pet stores, farm and tractor stores, liquor stores, and even schools. You might also find them at construction sites. Always ask before taking a pallet. Also, never take a pallet that's marked with \\\"Property of...\\\" or a company name. You can also purchase pallets at home improvement stores.\\n1-2. Cut garden fabric to fit the back and sides of the pallet.\\nTurn the pallet over and lay the garden fabric out over the back. Cut it large enough to completely cover the back, leaving enough room to go up the sides of the pallet, too, to help keep the soil in.\\nThe \\\"back\\\" of the pallet will be the side that has the most slats. You want the openings on the front/top of the pallet.\\n\\\"Garden fabric\\\" is also called \\\"weed barrier\\\" fabric, as it's meant to suppress weeds when you layer it over an area. You can find it at most home improvement stores and garden centers.\\n1-3. Staple the fabric to the back of the pallet, starting on the outer edges.\\nOn the back of the pallet, place a staple in the middle of one side of the pallet. Stretch it out and put a staple in the middle on the opposite side. Do the same for the other 2 sides and then fill in the rest of the edges with staples, stretching it a little as you do.\\nYou don't need to stretch it very taut, but you should try to tighten it a little so it doesn't have too much slack.\\n1-4. Attach the fabric to the sides with a staple gun.\\nFlip the pallet over. Pull the fabric up each side. Staple it in place near the top of each side. At the corners, fold the fabric flat into a triangle shape and lay it flat against the pallet to staple it in place.\\nIf you need to, trim off the fabric around the top edge.\\n1-5. Fill the planter with soil and put your plants in the soil.\\nDump the soil in, working around the planks as you go. Add plants to each section of the planter by digging small holes and inserting the plants. Cover the bottom of the plants and then water the soil thoroughly.\\nMake sure you have the planter where you want it before adding the soil or watering it.\\n2. Making a Planter from Pallet Sections\\n2-1. Cut a pallet into thirds.\\nStart with a pallet that has 6, 9, or 12 planks across the front, as that will make it easier to cut into thirds. For instance, if it has 9 planks, cut between the third and fourth plank and then the 6th and 7th plank. Use a hand saw or jigsaw to cut down the center between the planks. You'll need to cut through each cross board on the front.\\nOnce you're done, flip it over and cut it in the same places on the back.\\nPull the pallet apart into thirds. You should have 2 side pieces and 1 middle piece.\\n2-2. Pull off the small slats on the back of the side pieces.\\nWhen you flip the side pieces over, you should see small slats sticking out from the long piece of wood. Use a hammer to pry the slats off gently as you want to keep them intact. Wedge the claw under the edge of the wood that's still attached and use the hammer to leverage the piece off.\\nAs you go along, hammer in any nails that are sticking up so they're flat against the boards.\\n2-3. Remove the planks and wooden blocks from the center piece.\\nOn the back of the center piece, you should see square wooden blocks with small planks on top. Use your hammer to wedge these pieces off, keeping the wooden blocks intact as you go.\\nYou may need to use a chisel to wedge the wooden blocks off the center piece.\\nContinue to flatten any nails you see sticking up by hammering them into place.\\n2-4. Cut off the edges of the planks that stick out on the center piece.\\nWhen looking at the center piece, you should see 3 long boards (if you started with a pallet that had 9 planks) and smaller boards running perpendicularly across the long boards. The small boards likely extend over the edges of the long boards so trim them off with a handsaw or jigsaw so they're flush with the edges of the long boards.\\n2-5. Remove the \\\"feet\\\" from the boards you laid to the side with a splitting wedge.\\nYou set aside planks with wooden blocks on them earlier. Place a splitting wedge between the board and the wooden blocks. Drive a sledge hammer against the end of the edge to cut the nails between the blocks and boards.\\nIf you want to skip this step, you could just screw the boards onto the bottom of the planter with the blocks still attached.\\nA splitting wedge is a tool that's cut into a wedge shape. You place the sharp end between 2 things you want to separate, then hit the broad end with a sledge hammer.\\n2-6. Screw or nail the middle piece into the side pieces.\\nTurn the middle piece over. Set the side pieces across from each other up so that the wooden blocks are on the inside and at the top of the boards, while you prop the middle piece on top, which will become the bottom piece. This part will be a little difficult to balance as you need to prop it up and screw it in at the same time. Line the middle piece up with the wooden blocks from the sides and screw or nail them into place.\\nPlace 2-3 screws or nails through the bottom piece into each of the the wooden blocks.\\nTurn the planter right-side up!\\n2-7. Place the leftover planks on the ends to make the other sides.\\nYou should have a u-shaped planter with the ends still open. Place the leftover planks on the ends, lining them up with the side boards. Screw them into place on top of the side and bottom boards. You may need to cobble together a couple of pieces to form 2 of the planks on the side.\\n2-8. Screw the feet in at an angle.\\nTurn the planter over again. Place the wooden blocks at the corners of the planters. Angle 2 3-inch (8 cm) screws on each foot so they go through the side of the feet and into the bottom of the planter. Drill the screws into each wooden block to hold the feet in place.\\nTurn the planter back over.\\nTo finish the planter, add a layer of chicken wire or garden fabric to the inside of the planter, which will keep the soil inside. You may want to staple the fabric in place so that it doesn't move around too much.\\n3. Creating a Planter from Pallet Boards\\n3-1. Decide how big you want your planter to be.\\nIf you want a square box, you could use 20 in (51 cm) pieces, along with skinnier pieces for a frame. If you want a rectangle, you'll need some longer pieces and some shorter pieces. However, you should decide ahead of time so you can judge how you want to cut the pallet as you pull it apart.\\nIf you wanted a rectangle, you could use 20 in (51 cm) pieces for 2 sides and 16 in (41 cm) for the other sides.\\n3-2. Take the pallet apart until you have planks and wooden blocks.\\nUse the claw end of the hammer to wedge apart all the boards until you have completely taken the pallet apart. With some boards, you may need to use a splitting wedge and a mallet. Push the splitting wedge in between the boards and hit the end with the mallet.\\nIf you're not going to use the full length of the boards, you can simply saw off the ends of the pallet to make the boards easier to remove. That way, you'll only need to wedge the boards off in the middle.\\n3-3. Build the base with 2 longer planks and several shorter planks.\\nLay out 2 long planks parallel to each other. Aim for lengths of that are about the same size as your longest side, such as 20 inches (51 cm), plus the width of the wood. Across the planks, lay out smaller planks that are equal in length to your shortest side, such as 16 inches (41 cm). Place the smaller planks up against each other so they form a solid base for your planter. Leave a space on each edge of the long planks that's about the width of the wood, as you'll build up the sides off that area.\\nNail the smaller boards onto the longer boards.\\n3-4. Begin building the walls up.\\nWhen putting your side walls in place, try to offset them at the corners. That is, when setting down 1 plank on its side, it should go all the way to the corner edge on one end but leave just enough space on the other end for the next side to come all the way into that corner. Nail the pieces into the base, as you should have left enough space that the boards sink down a little and you can nail it in from the side at an angle.\\n3-5. Put in corner posts to stabilize your work.\\nPlace a small piece of wood in each corner of the box and nail them into the bottom with your nails at an angle. You may need to cut a board in half to get a smaller piece of wood.\\nThese posts will provide something for you to nail into as you build your walls up.\\n3-6. Continue building the walls up.\\nAs you build up, continue to offset the boards but alternate which board goes to the corner on each layer. For instance, if a shorter side goes all the way to the corner on one layer, the longer side should go all the way to that corner on the next layer. As you make your walls, nail them into the corner posts and into each other at the sides, creating a stable structure.\\nYou can make your walls as high as you want, but you probably shouldn't go more than 3-4 planks high as it will get unwieldy.\\n3-7. Sand and paint your planter as desired.\\nUse heavy sandpaper to sand the rough edges of your planter down. You can use a power sander if you'd like. After that, you can leave the planter as is or you can add a thin coat of paint to it for decoration.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pallets are fairly easy to come by, and they make for a cheap or free source of wood for things like planters. When choosing a pallet, make sure to read the label first; avoid ones that are marked with \\\"MB,\\\" as that means they've been chemically treated. \\\"HT\\\" just means it's been heat treated, which is fine for a planter. You can try a simple project where you just staple garden fabric onto the bottom of a pallet to enclose it. You can also cut a pallet into sections and then reassemble it into a planter. Alternatively, you can take the pallet apart altogether to assemble it into a planter.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating a Basic Planter with Garden Fabric\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Scrub down the pallet if it's dirty and sand any rough edges.\", \"描述\": \"Use a bit of dish soap dissolved in water to scrub it down with a sturdy brush. Rinse it off with a hose. Once it dries enough that it doesn't feel rough to the touch, use heavy sandpaper to smooth down any edges that are too splintery.\\nSanding the edges isn't absolutely necessary, but it will keep you from picking up as many splinters in your hands.\\nYou can find free pallets at may retail locations, such as pet stores, farm and tractor stores, liquor stores, and even schools. You might also find them at construction sites. Always ask before taking a pallet. Also, never take a pallet that's marked with \\\"Property of...\\\" or a company name. You can also purchase pallets at home improvement stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut garden fabric to fit the back and sides of the pallet.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the pallet over and lay the garden fabric out over the back. Cut it large enough to completely cover the back, leaving enough room to go up the sides of the pallet, too, to help keep the soil in.\\nThe \\\"back\\\" of the pallet will be the side that has the most slats. You want the openings on the front/top of the pallet.\\n\\\"Garden fabric\\\" is also called \\\"weed barrier\\\" fabric, as it's meant to suppress weeds when you layer it over an area. You can find it at most home improvement stores and garden centers.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Staple the fabric to the back of the pallet, starting on the outer edges.\", \"描述\": \"On the back of the pallet, place a staple in the middle of one side of the pallet. Stretch it out and put a staple in the middle on the opposite side. Do the same for the other 2 sides and then fill in the rest of the edges with staples, stretching it a little as you do.\\nYou don't need to stretch it very taut, but you should try to tighten it a little so it doesn't have too much slack.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the fabric to the sides with a staple gun.\", \"描述\": \"Flip the pallet over. Pull the fabric up each side. Staple it in place near the top of each side. At the corners, fold the fabric flat into a triangle shape and lay it flat against the pallet to staple it in place.\\nIf you need to, trim off the fabric around the top edge.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fill the planter with soil and put your plants in the soil.\", \"描述\": \"Dump the soil in, working around the planks as you go. Add plants to each section of the planter by digging small holes and inserting the plants. Cover the bottom of the plants and then water the soil thoroughly.\\nMake sure you have the planter where you want it before adding the soil or watering it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Planter from Pallet Sections\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut a pallet into thirds.\", \"描述\": \"Start with a pallet that has 6, 9, or 12 planks across the front, as that will make it easier to cut into thirds. For instance, if it has 9 planks, cut between the third and fourth plank and then the 6th and 7th plank. Use a hand saw or jigsaw to cut down the center between the planks. You'll need to cut through each cross board on the front.\\nOnce you're done, flip it over and cut it in the same places on the back.\\nPull the pallet apart into thirds. You should have 2 side pieces and 1 middle piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pull off the small slats on the back of the side pieces.\", \"描述\": \"When you flip the side pieces over, you should see small slats sticking out from the long piece of wood. Use a hammer to pry the slats off gently as you want to keep them intact. Wedge the claw under the edge of the wood that's still attached and use the hammer to leverage the piece off.\\nAs you go along, hammer in any nails that are sticking up so they're flat against the boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the planks and wooden blocks from the center piece.\", \"描述\": \"On the back of the center piece, you should see square wooden blocks with small planks on top. Use your hammer to wedge these pieces off, keeping the wooden blocks intact as you go.\\nYou may need to use a chisel to wedge the wooden blocks off the center piece.\\nContinue to flatten any nails you see sticking up by hammering them into place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut off the edges of the planks that stick out on the center piece.\", \"描述\": \"When looking at the center piece, you should see 3 long boards (if you started with a pallet that had 9 planks) and smaller boards running perpendicularly across the long boards. The small boards likely extend over the edges of the long boards so trim them off with a handsaw or jigsaw so they're flush with the edges of the long boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Remove the \\\"feet\\\" from the boards you laid to the side with a splitting wedge.\", \"描述\": \"You set aside planks with wooden blocks on them earlier. Place a splitting wedge between the board and the wooden blocks. Drive a sledge hammer against the end of the edge to cut the nails between the blocks and boards.\\nIf you want to skip this step, you could just screw the boards onto the bottom of the planter with the blocks still attached.\\nA splitting wedge is a tool that's cut into a wedge shape. You place the sharp end between 2 things you want to separate, then hit the broad end with a sledge hammer.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Screw or nail the middle piece into the side pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the middle piece over. Set the side pieces across from each other up so that the wooden blocks are on the inside and at the top of the boards, while you prop the middle piece on top, which will become the bottom piece. This part will be a little difficult to balance as you need to prop it up and screw it in at the same time. Line the middle piece up with the wooden blocks from the sides and screw or nail them into place.\\nPlace 2-3 screws or nails through the bottom piece into each of the the wooden blocks.\\nTurn the planter right-side up!\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place the leftover planks on the ends to make the other sides.\", \"描述\": \"You should have a u-shaped planter with the ends still open. Place the leftover planks on the ends, lining them up with the side boards. Screw them into place on top of the side and bottom boards. You may need to cobble together a couple of pieces to form 2 of the planks on the side.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Screw the feet in at an angle.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the planter over again. Place the wooden blocks at the corners of the planters. Angle 2 3-inch (8 cm) screws on each foot so they go through the side of the feet and into the bottom of the planter. Drill the screws into each wooden block to hold the feet in place.\\nTurn the planter back over.\\nTo finish the planter, add a layer of chicken wire or garden fabric to the inside of the planter, which will keep the soil inside. You may want to staple the fabric in place so that it doesn't move around too much.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Creating a Planter from Pallet Boards\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide how big you want your planter to be.\", \"描述\": \"If you want a square box, you could use 20 in (51 cm) pieces, along with skinnier pieces for a frame. If you want a rectangle, you'll need some longer pieces and some shorter pieces. However, you should decide ahead of time so you can judge how you want to cut the pallet as you pull it apart.\\nIf you wanted a rectangle, you could use 20 in (51 cm) pieces for 2 sides and 16 in (41 cm) for the other sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take the pallet apart until you have planks and wooden blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Use the claw end of the hammer to wedge apart all the boards until you have completely taken the pallet apart. With some boards, you may need to use a splitting wedge and a mallet. Push the splitting wedge in between the boards and hit the end with the mallet.\\nIf you're not going to use the full length of the boards, you can simply saw off the ends of the pallet to make the boards easier to remove. That way, you'll only need to wedge the boards off in the middle.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the base with 2 longer planks and several shorter planks.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out 2 long planks parallel to each other. Aim for lengths of that are about the same size as your longest side, such as 20 inches (51 cm), plus the width of the wood. Across the planks, lay out smaller planks that are equal in length to your shortest side, such as 16 inches (41 cm). Place the smaller planks up against each other so they form a solid base for your planter. Leave a space on each edge of the long planks that's about the width of the wood, as you'll build up the sides off that area.\\nNail the smaller boards onto the longer boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Begin building the walls up.\", \"描述\": \"When putting your side walls in place, try to offset them at the corners. That is, when setting down 1 plank on its side, it should go all the way to the corner edge on one end but leave just enough space on the other end for the next side to come all the way into that corner. Nail the pieces into the base, as you should have left enough space that the boards sink down a little and you can nail it in from the side at an angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Put in corner posts to stabilize your work.\", \"描述\": \"Place a small piece of wood in each corner of the box and nail them into the bottom with your nails at an angle. You may need to cut a board in half to get a smaller piece of wood.\\nThese posts will provide something for you to nail into as you build your walls up.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Continue building the walls up.\", \"描述\": \"As you build up, continue to offset the boards but alternate which board goes to the corner on each layer. For instance, if a shorter side goes all the way to the corner on one layer, the longer side should go all the way to that corner on the next layer. As you make your walls, nail them into the corner posts and into each other at the sides, creating a stable structure.\\nYou can make your walls as high as you want, but you probably shouldn't go more than 3-4 planks high as it will get unwieldy.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Sand and paint your planter as desired.\", \"描述\": \"Use heavy sandpaper to sand the rough edges of your planter down. You can use a power sander if you'd like. After that, you can leave the planter as is or you can add a thin coat of paint to it for decoration.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,465 |
How to Build a Plastic Model Airplane from a Kit
|
1. Planning
1-1. Before starting, you must decide on the model you wish to build.
Among the model airplane categories there includes fighter, transport, military transport, private, ultra-light, airliner, glider, and others. Choosing what type of model you build is usually as easy as picking your favourite, but some models are easier to build than others. For example, combat aircraft are usually more difficult, often requiring complex camouflage patterns and a familiarity with the proper use of an airbrush. The model you end up choosing should be the result of a balance between your interest and your abilities.
1-2. Do research.
Building a model is not as easy as opening the instructions and following them step-by-step. The first thing you must do before assembling any parts is to read the instructions thoroughly, from the introductions, steps and paint list, all the way to the parts list. Most model airplanes will be packaged with an alternate set of paint schemes and sometimes even parts. Choosing which paint scheme and aircraft variant must be done before any assembly takes place. Background knowledge of the aircraft may help you choose which type you want to build.
1-3. Choose what configuration you want your aircraft to have.
The configuration may include whether the landing gear is up or down, the doors open or closed, the air-brakes or thrust reversers extended or retracted. In the case of combat aircraft, you must also choose whether to include the weapons and drop-tanks. If the kit you are planning to build includes a pilot or passengers, you must choose whether to install them as well. Finally, choose whether you wish to “weather” your aircraft. Weathering may include soot trailing from the engine exhaust, gun ports, engine cowl, etc… consider the type of aircraft you wish to build and base your choices on the situations that aircraft may find itself in. For example, combat aircraft usually appear more weathered than commercial aircraft. Write down all configuration choices you have made so as to keep a picture of the aircraft fresh in your mind, or at least close at hand.
1-4. Decide whether you wish to expound on your model by including it in a diorama or building separate elements to supplement it.
Some kits come with weapons racks, vehicles for maneuvering the aircraft on the ground, and/or ground personnel. These objects may be useful to set the place of your model, but may also be inappropriate based on your aircraft configuration (for example, an aircraft in flight on a stand will seem out of place next to a toiling maintenance team). If you are ambitious enough, you may choose to build a diorama or separate elements from scratch. Such a diorama should be sketched out to aid in building it, and a clear materials list must be kept in preparation for its assembly.
1-5. Choose the order of assembly.
While the paper instructions included with the kit will have a beginning and an end, it may not be advisable to follow the order of assembly step by step. The installation of some parts may inhibit the installation of other parts further along, and if you must paint one part but not the part next to it, you may also have some difficulty. Assembling the aircraft in your head before opening your tube of glue is imperative, and must be clearly defined and recorded to make the assembly as fun and as easy as possible.
2. Assembly
2-1. Ensure all parts are clean.
Dust and oil may inhibit the adhesion of paints and glues, as well as detract from the authenticity and “look” of the model. You can remove dust and oil with warm water and a very small amount of detergent. Bathe the parts, still on their sprues, in a shallow basin for several minutes, agitating them occasionally. After that, rinse them thoroughly before drying them with a clean paper towel. No detergent or water must be allowed on the parts as they are assembled.
2-2. Use a small pair of scissors or shears to remove the parts from their respective sprues.
Using a knife to remove parts is difficult, dangerous, and may damage the part. Only when the part is removed may you use a fine knife to remove any flash or excess sprue still attached.
2-3. Before gluing parts together, always ensure that the contact points are clean and that the parts fit well.
When applying the plastic cement, only apply to one of the parts. An excessive amount of plastic cement will not only prolong or prevent proper adhesion, but may also melt and deform the parts. Plastic cement must always be used as conservatively as possible. When gluing clear parts, such as windows or canopies, try to avoid plastic cement. This is because plastic cement can “fog” clear plastic even in areas where not directly applied. For clear parts, use white glue.
Gaps between parts may become apparent after assembly. To remove a gap that is too large to overlook, it may become necessary to separate the parts, adjust their fit, and re-adhere. Another option is to fill the gap with modeling putty or another substance that dries to hardness and can be smoothed and painted over. When applying putty, only the smallest amount is required. An excessive amount will be difficult to remove later and in the case of clear parts, may be impossible to remove without evident damage to the part beneath. Follow the instructions on the packaging and use a plastic tool to apply the putty, so as not to scratch the model.
If an assembled part is not adhering properly in some places, it may not be necessary to separate the parts and re-adhere. Another option is to use liquid plastic cement to re-adhere the parts. By applying a small amount of liquid glue to the outside of the gap, the glue is drawn into the gap by capillary action. It is important not to apply too much glue, for the reasons above, but also because too much glue may remain outside the gap and dry to hard, malformed bubbles. In general, less than a drop will suffice. When the glue has been applied, hold the parts firmly together until proper adhesion is assured.
2-4. Once two parts are glued together, it may be necessary to clamp them together until the glue sets.
This may be done by holding the two parts firmly together with your hands, but you may also use a variety of tools to do the same job. Elastic bands, clothespins, plastic clamps, tape, and wire are all suitable materials. When applying the clamps, make sure that the pressure exerted on the parts is great enough to keep the parts together, but not nearly enough to deform or break them. Also make sure that whatever clamp you choose to use will not scratch the plastic.
3. Painting
3-1. Choose a suitable place to paint.
You should not paint where dust or other airborne particles may adhere to your work. Choose a clean, dry place, between 5 and 30 degrees Celsius to apply and dry paint.
3-2. Before painting a part, make sure it is clean and dry.
Painting over particles will not remove or hide them, but trap them in place.
3-3. Ensure that the paint you are about to use is mixed to a thorough consistency.
Start by striking the closed container of paint sharply and repeatedly against the palm of your hand. After about 20 strikes, open the container and mix the paint thoroughly with a stir stick. A piece of sprue shortened to length makes an excellent and accessible stir-stick.
3-4. It may become necessary to mask adjacent parts from the part you wish to paint, so as not to accidentally get paint on that part.
Masking can be in the form of masking tape or liquid masker. With masking tape, it is necessary to cut the tape to the size of the area you wish to mask. Before applying the tape, it is good practice to remove some of its “stickiness” by applying it to another material and removing it again. This makes the tape easier to remove once painting is complete. When applying masking tape to the part, ensure that no gaps are present along the edges of the tape. The other method of masking, using liquid masker, may be preferred for smaller or awkwardly-shaped parts. To apply a liquid masker simply use an old, clean brush, and wait for it to dry. Once the part is painted it should be allowed to partially but not completely dry before the masker is removed. Completely dry paint runs the risk of “tearing” if the mask is removed, whereas paint that is too thin may flow to the masked part once the mask is removed.
3-5. When painting with a brush, always ensure that it is of appropriate size and that there are no loose or stray bristles.
Brush painting should be reserved for small or isolated parts or parts that require a certain finish to them. Applying paint with a brush leaves striations in the direction of brush travel, and must not be used for exteriors or large surfaces.
3-6. You should always follow the published instructions included with your airbrush, but some key points to especially remember are to keep you airbrush perpendicular and of fixed distance from your work, and to paint in one direction only (unless painting camouflage patterns).
Airbrushing provides an even coat of paint, and while being better suited for large surfaces, may be used on smaller parts whose surroundings are properly masked.
3-7. Dry brushing is a technique that employs only a small amount of paint, usually to achieve the effect of weathering.
To dry brush, take a dry paintbrush and apply a small amount of paint to it. Next, brush off any excess paint on a piece of paper until the result is an inconsistent streak of paint which resembles the weathering you are trying to achieve. Paint the weathering onto the model before the paint dries further. It may be necessary to reapply the paint and remove the excess several times before the level of weathering you want is reached.
3-8. After painting, it may become apparent that some paint needs to be removed, whether it holds dust, has found its way onto an adjacent part, or simply is the wrong colour.
To remove paint you may either scrape it off or use a solvent. Scraping is appropriate for small, flat parts and may be performed easily with a small, sharp knife. Solvents can range from specially designed paint removers to brake-fluid, but the method of application usually remains consistent. Using a brush, apply a small amount of solvent to the part you wish to remove paint from. After the designated amount of time, remove it carefully with a clean paper towel. Not only will the solvent come off on the towel, but a portion of the paint will, too. Repeat this process until all the paint has been removed. For large parts, it may be practical to submerge the entire part in a solvent to effectively remove the paint.
4. Finishing
4-1. Ensure that all paint and glue on your model is perfectly dry.
It is good practice to start applying decals the day after you finish assembly and painting. Ensure also that your model is free of contaminants and dust, so nothing may be trapped underneath a decal.
4-2. Cut out all the decals you wish to apply with a sharp knife.
It is not necessary to cut out the decals perfectly; rather you should leave a few millimeters around each decal to avoid cutting it accidentally.
4-3. Fill a bowl or shallow cup with warm water.
The water should be at least lukewarm to remove the decals from the paper they are printed on, but not scalding hot. Never use boiling water to apply decals.
4-4. Hold the paper the decals are printed on with a pair of tweezers.
Make sure you are not gripping a part of the decal itself under the tweezers.
4-5. Submerge the decal in the warm water for approximately twenty seconds.
At this time the decal will lose most of its adhesion to the paper and is ready to be applied to the model.
4-6. Hold the paper the decal is printed on close to the part you are applying the decal to.
The edge of the paper must be lying on the edge of the part, so the decal is transferred immediately from paper to part. Using a clean, wet brush, maneuver the decal onto the part and position it accordingly. Ensure that all air bubbles and creases are removed from the decal by pushing them out with the brush.
4-7. Dry the decal by very gently by dabbing it with a clean paper towel.
The decal should be left alone for an hour to allow it to dry completely. Until then, it may be accidentally repositioned. To reposition a partially dry decal, simply apply some warm water with the brush and maneuver it back into position.
Tips
Remember that whatever paint-removing solvent you use, it must not harm plastic.
A torn decal is not useless. Careful positioning of the damaged portions can restore the decal to a whole appearance.
You may want to watch several videos of people making the model that you are making. Sometimes, those videos have very useful information.
Warnings
Knives and other sharp tools must be handled by experienced and responsible persons only.
Small parts may pose a choking hazard to small children and animals.
When applying solvents, paints, and glues, do so in a well-ventilated area. Observe all warnings and instructions printed on all your materials and tools.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:53",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning\\n1-1. Before starting, you must decide on the model you wish to build.\\nAmong the model airplane categories there includes fighter, transport, military transport, private, ultra-light, airliner, glider, and others. Choosing what type of model you build is usually as easy as picking your favourite, but some models are easier to build than others. For example, combat aircraft are usually more difficult, often requiring complex camouflage patterns and a familiarity with the proper use of an airbrush. The model you end up choosing should be the result of a balance between your interest and your abilities.\\n1-2. Do research.\\nBuilding a model is not as easy as opening the instructions and following them step-by-step. The first thing you must do before assembling any parts is to read the instructions thoroughly, from the introductions, steps and paint list, all the way to the parts list. Most model airplanes will be packaged with an alternate set of paint schemes and sometimes even parts. Choosing which paint scheme and aircraft variant must be done before any assembly takes place. Background knowledge of the aircraft may help you choose which type you want to build.\\n1-3. Choose what configuration you want your aircraft to have.\\nThe configuration may include whether the landing gear is up or down, the doors open or closed, the air-brakes or thrust reversers extended or retracted. In the case of combat aircraft, you must also choose whether to include the weapons and drop-tanks. If the kit you are planning to build includes a pilot or passengers, you must choose whether to install them as well. Finally, choose whether you wish to “weather” your aircraft. Weathering may include soot trailing from the engine exhaust, gun ports, engine cowl, etc… consider the type of aircraft you wish to build and base your choices on the situations that aircraft may find itself in. For example, combat aircraft usually appear more weathered than commercial aircraft. Write down all configuration choices you have made so as to keep a picture of the aircraft fresh in your mind, or at least close at hand.\\n1-4. Decide whether you wish to expound on your model by including it in a diorama or building separate elements to supplement it.\\nSome kits come with weapons racks, vehicles for maneuvering the aircraft on the ground, and/or ground personnel. These objects may be useful to set the place of your model, but may also be inappropriate based on your aircraft configuration (for example, an aircraft in flight on a stand will seem out of place next to a toiling maintenance team). If you are ambitious enough, you may choose to build a diorama or separate elements from scratch. Such a diorama should be sketched out to aid in building it, and a clear materials list must be kept in preparation for its assembly.\\n1-5. Choose the order of assembly.\\nWhile the paper instructions included with the kit will have a beginning and an end, it may not be advisable to follow the order of assembly step by step. The installation of some parts may inhibit the installation of other parts further along, and if you must paint one part but not the part next to it, you may also have some difficulty. Assembling the aircraft in your head before opening your tube of glue is imperative, and must be clearly defined and recorded to make the assembly as fun and as easy as possible.\\n2. Assembly\\n2-1. Ensure all parts are clean.\\nDust and oil may inhibit the adhesion of paints and glues, as well as detract from the authenticity and “look” of the model. You can remove dust and oil with warm water and a very small amount of detergent. Bathe the parts, still on their sprues, in a shallow basin for several minutes, agitating them occasionally. After that, rinse them thoroughly before drying them with a clean paper towel. No detergent or water must be allowed on the parts as they are assembled.\\n2-2. Use a small pair of scissors or shears to remove the parts from their respective sprues.\\nUsing a knife to remove parts is difficult, dangerous, and may damage the part. Only when the part is removed may you use a fine knife to remove any flash or excess sprue still attached.\\n2-3. Before gluing parts together, always ensure that the contact points are clean and that the parts fit well.\\nWhen applying the plastic cement, only apply to one of the parts. An excessive amount of plastic cement will not only prolong or prevent proper adhesion, but may also melt and deform the parts. Plastic cement must always be used as conservatively as possible. When gluing clear parts, such as windows or canopies, try to avoid plastic cement. This is because plastic cement can “fog” clear plastic even in areas where not directly applied. For clear parts, use white glue.\\nGaps between parts may become apparent after assembly. To remove a gap that is too large to overlook, it may become necessary to separate the parts, adjust their fit, and re-adhere. Another option is to fill the gap with modeling putty or another substance that dries to hardness and can be smoothed and painted over. When applying putty, only the smallest amount is required. An excessive amount will be difficult to remove later and in the case of clear parts, may be impossible to remove without evident damage to the part beneath. Follow the instructions on the packaging and use a plastic tool to apply the putty, so as not to scratch the model.\\nIf an assembled part is not adhering properly in some places, it may not be necessary to separate the parts and re-adhere. Another option is to use liquid plastic cement to re-adhere the parts. By applying a small amount of liquid glue to the outside of the gap, the glue is drawn into the gap by capillary action. It is important not to apply too much glue, for the reasons above, but also because too much glue may remain outside the gap and dry to hard, malformed bubbles. In general, less than a drop will suffice. When the glue has been applied, hold the parts firmly together until proper adhesion is assured.\\n2-4. Once two parts are glued together, it may be necessary to clamp them together until the glue sets.\\nThis may be done by holding the two parts firmly together with your hands, but you may also use a variety of tools to do the same job. Elastic bands, clothespins, plastic clamps, tape, and wire are all suitable materials. When applying the clamps, make sure that the pressure exerted on the parts is great enough to keep the parts together, but not nearly enough to deform or break them. Also make sure that whatever clamp you choose to use will not scratch the plastic.\\n3. Painting\\n3-1. Choose a suitable place to paint.\\nYou should not paint where dust or other airborne particles may adhere to your work. Choose a clean, dry place, between 5 and 30 degrees Celsius to apply and dry paint.\\n3-2. Before painting a part, make sure it is clean and dry.\\nPainting over particles will not remove or hide them, but trap them in place.\\n3-3. Ensure that the paint you are about to use is mixed to a thorough consistency.\\nStart by striking the closed container of paint sharply and repeatedly against the palm of your hand. After about 20 strikes, open the container and mix the paint thoroughly with a stir stick. A piece of sprue shortened to length makes an excellent and accessible stir-stick.\\n3-4. It may become necessary to mask adjacent parts from the part you wish to paint, so as not to accidentally get paint on that part.\\nMasking can be in the form of masking tape or liquid masker. With masking tape, it is necessary to cut the tape to the size of the area you wish to mask. Before applying the tape, it is good practice to remove some of its “stickiness” by applying it to another material and removing it again. This makes the tape easier to remove once painting is complete. When applying masking tape to the part, ensure that no gaps are present along the edges of the tape. The other method of masking, using liquid masker, may be preferred for smaller or awkwardly-shaped parts. To apply a liquid masker simply use an old, clean brush, and wait for it to dry. Once the part is painted it should be allowed to partially but not completely dry before the masker is removed. Completely dry paint runs the risk of “tearing” if the mask is removed, whereas paint that is too thin may flow to the masked part once the mask is removed.\\n3-5. When painting with a brush, always ensure that it is of appropriate size and that there are no loose or stray bristles.\\nBrush painting should be reserved for small or isolated parts or parts that require a certain finish to them. Applying paint with a brush leaves striations in the direction of brush travel, and must not be used for exteriors or large surfaces.\\n3-6. You should always follow the published instructions included with your airbrush, but some key points to especially remember are to keep you airbrush perpendicular and of fixed distance from your work, and to paint in one direction only (unless painting camouflage patterns).\\nAirbrushing provides an even coat of paint, and while being better suited for large surfaces, may be used on smaller parts whose surroundings are properly masked.\\n3-7. Dry brushing is a technique that employs only a small amount of paint, usually to achieve the effect of weathering.\\nTo dry brush, take a dry paintbrush and apply a small amount of paint to it. Next, brush off any excess paint on a piece of paper until the result is an inconsistent streak of paint which resembles the weathering you are trying to achieve. Paint the weathering onto the model before the paint dries further. It may be necessary to reapply the paint and remove the excess several times before the level of weathering you want is reached.\\n3-8. After painting, it may become apparent that some paint needs to be removed, whether it holds dust, has found its way onto an adjacent part, or simply is the wrong colour.\\nTo remove paint you may either scrape it off or use a solvent. Scraping is appropriate for small, flat parts and may be performed easily with a small, sharp knife. Solvents can range from specially designed paint removers to brake-fluid, but the method of application usually remains consistent. Using a brush, apply a small amount of solvent to the part you wish to remove paint from. After the designated amount of time, remove it carefully with a clean paper towel. Not only will the solvent come off on the towel, but a portion of the paint will, too. Repeat this process until all the paint has been removed. For large parts, it may be practical to submerge the entire part in a solvent to effectively remove the paint.\\n4. Finishing\\n4-1. Ensure that all paint and glue on your model is perfectly dry.\\nIt is good practice to start applying decals the day after you finish assembly and painting. Ensure also that your model is free of contaminants and dust, so nothing may be trapped underneath a decal.\\n4-2. Cut out all the decals you wish to apply with a sharp knife.\\nIt is not necessary to cut out the decals perfectly; rather you should leave a few millimeters around each decal to avoid cutting it accidentally.\\n4-3. Fill a bowl or shallow cup with warm water.\\nThe water should be at least lukewarm to remove the decals from the paper they are printed on, but not scalding hot. Never use boiling water to apply decals.\\n4-4. Hold the paper the decals are printed on with a pair of tweezers.\\nMake sure you are not gripping a part of the decal itself under the tweezers.\\n4-5. Submerge the decal in the warm water for approximately twenty seconds.\\nAt this time the decal will lose most of its adhesion to the paper and is ready to be applied to the model.\\n4-6. Hold the paper the decal is printed on close to the part you are applying the decal to.\\nThe edge of the paper must be lying on the edge of the part, so the decal is transferred immediately from paper to part. Using a clean, wet brush, maneuver the decal onto the part and position it accordingly. Ensure that all air bubbles and creases are removed from the decal by pushing them out with the brush.\\n4-7. Dry the decal by very gently by dabbing it with a clean paper towel.\\nThe decal should be left alone for an hour to allow it to dry completely. Until then, it may be accidentally repositioned. To reposition a partially dry decal, simply apply some warm water with the brush and maneuver it back into position.\\nTips\\nRemember that whatever paint-removing solvent you use, it must not harm plastic.\\nA torn decal is not useless. Careful positioning of the damaged portions can restore the decal to a whole appearance.\\nYou may want to watch several videos of people making the model that you are making. Sometimes, those videos have very useful information.\\nWarnings\\nKnives and other sharp tools must be handled by experienced and responsible persons only.\\nSmall parts may pose a choking hazard to small children and animals.\\nWhen applying solvents, paints, and glues, do so in a well-ventilated area. Observe all warnings and instructions printed on all your materials and tools.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Have you thought building plastic model airplanes might be a fun hobby, but don’t know where to start learning how to do it? Maybe you have some questions about the process that you would like clarified. If either is the case, you have come to the right place. This article is devoted to modeling airplanes starting from the ground up, the perfect resource for beginners or those looking for some different techniques. While this article focuses specifically on model airplanes, most of the techniques and practices can be applied to other such kits as trains, tanks, ships, and cars. Best of all, this article is easy to follow and can provide museum-quality models if the instructions are adhered to. \\n\\nThere are 4 basic stages to building a plastic model airplane from a kit, and they are planning, assembly, painting, and finishing.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Before starting, you must decide on the model you wish to build.\", \"描述\": \"Among the model airplane categories there includes fighter, transport, military transport, private, ultra-light, airliner, glider, and others. Choosing what type of model you build is usually as easy as picking your favourite, but some models are easier to build than others. For example, combat aircraft are usually more difficult, often requiring complex camouflage patterns and a familiarity with the proper use of an airbrush. The model you end up choosing should be the result of a balance between your interest and your abilities.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Do research.\", \"描述\": \"Building a model is not as easy as opening the instructions and following them step-by-step. The first thing you must do before assembling any parts is to read the instructions thoroughly, from the introductions, steps and paint list, all the way to the parts list. Most model airplanes will be packaged with an alternate set of paint schemes and sometimes even parts. Choosing which paint scheme and aircraft variant must be done before any assembly takes place. Background knowledge of the aircraft may help you choose which type you want to build.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose what configuration you want your aircraft to have.\", \"描述\": \"The configuration may include whether the landing gear is up or down, the doors open or closed, the air-brakes or thrust reversers extended or retracted. In the case of combat aircraft, you must also choose whether to include the weapons and drop-tanks. If the kit you are planning to build includes a pilot or passengers, you must choose whether to install them as well. Finally, choose whether you wish to “weather” your aircraft. Weathering may include soot trailing from the engine exhaust, gun ports, engine cowl, etc… consider the type of aircraft you wish to build and base your choices on the situations that aircraft may find itself in. For example, combat aircraft usually appear more weathered than commercial aircraft. Write down all configuration choices you have made so as to keep a picture of the aircraft fresh in your mind, or at least close at hand.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decide whether you wish to expound on your model by including it in a diorama or building separate elements to supplement it.\", \"描述\": \"Some kits come with weapons racks, vehicles for maneuvering the aircraft on the ground, and/or ground personnel. These objects may be useful to set the place of your model, but may also be inappropriate based on your aircraft configuration (for example, an aircraft in flight on a stand will seem out of place next to a toiling maintenance team). If you are ambitious enough, you may choose to build a diorama or separate elements from scratch. Such a diorama should be sketched out to aid in building it, and a clear materials list must be kept in preparation for its assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose the order of assembly.\", \"描述\": \"While the paper instructions included with the kit will have a beginning and an end, it may not be advisable to follow the order of assembly step by step. The installation of some parts may inhibit the installation of other parts further along, and if you must paint one part but not the part next to it, you may also have some difficulty. Assembling the aircraft in your head before opening your tube of glue is imperative, and must be clearly defined and recorded to make the assembly as fun and as easy as possible.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembly\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ensure all parts are clean.\", \"描述\": \"Dust and oil may inhibit the adhesion of paints and glues, as well as detract from the authenticity and “look” of the model. You can remove dust and oil with warm water and a very small amount of detergent. Bathe the parts, still on their sprues, in a shallow basin for several minutes, agitating them occasionally. After that, rinse them thoroughly before drying them with a clean paper towel. No detergent or water must be allowed on the parts as they are assembled.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a small pair of scissors or shears to remove the parts from their respective sprues.\", \"描述\": \"Using a knife to remove parts is difficult, dangerous, and may damage the part. Only when the part is removed may you use a fine knife to remove any flash or excess sprue still attached.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Before gluing parts together, always ensure that the contact points are clean and that the parts fit well.\", \"描述\": \"When applying the plastic cement, only apply to one of the parts. An excessive amount of plastic cement will not only prolong or prevent proper adhesion, but may also melt and deform the parts. Plastic cement must always be used as conservatively as possible. When gluing clear parts, such as windows or canopies, try to avoid plastic cement. This is because plastic cement can “fog” clear plastic even in areas where not directly applied. For clear parts, use white glue.\\nGaps between parts may become apparent after assembly. To remove a gap that is too large to overlook, it may become necessary to separate the parts, adjust their fit, and re-adhere. Another option is to fill the gap with modeling putty or another substance that dries to hardness and can be smoothed and painted over. When applying putty, only the smallest amount is required. An excessive amount will be difficult to remove later and in the case of clear parts, may be impossible to remove without evident damage to the part beneath. Follow the instructions on the packaging and use a plastic tool to apply the putty, so as not to scratch the model.\\nIf an assembled part is not adhering properly in some places, it may not be necessary to separate the parts and re-adhere. Another option is to use liquid plastic cement to re-adhere the parts. By applying a small amount of liquid glue to the outside of the gap, the glue is drawn into the gap by capillary action. It is important not to apply too much glue, for the reasons above, but also because too much glue may remain outside the gap and dry to hard, malformed bubbles. In general, less than a drop will suffice. When the glue has been applied, hold the parts firmly together until proper adhesion is assured.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Once two parts are glued together, it may be necessary to clamp them together until the glue sets.\", \"描述\": \"This may be done by holding the two parts firmly together with your hands, but you may also use a variety of tools to do the same job. Elastic bands, clothespins, plastic clamps, tape, and wire are all suitable materials. When applying the clamps, make sure that the pressure exerted on the parts is great enough to keep the parts together, but not nearly enough to deform or break them. Also make sure that whatever clamp you choose to use will not scratch the plastic.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Painting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a suitable place to paint.\", \"描述\": \"You should not paint where dust or other airborne particles may adhere to your work. Choose a clean, dry place, between 5 and 30 degrees Celsius to apply and dry paint.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Before painting a part, make sure it is clean and dry.\", \"描述\": \"Painting over particles will not remove or hide them, but trap them in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ensure that the paint you are about to use is mixed to a thorough consistency.\", \"描述\": \"Start by striking the closed container of paint sharply and repeatedly against the palm of your hand. After about 20 strikes, open the container and mix the paint thoroughly with a stir stick. A piece of sprue shortened to length makes an excellent and accessible stir-stick.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"It may become necessary to mask adjacent parts from the part you wish to paint, so as not to accidentally get paint on that part.\", \"描述\": \"Masking can be in the form of masking tape or liquid masker. With masking tape, it is necessary to cut the tape to the size of the area you wish to mask. Before applying the tape, it is good practice to remove some of its “stickiness” by applying it to another material and removing it again. This makes the tape easier to remove once painting is complete. When applying masking tape to the part, ensure that no gaps are present along the edges of the tape. The other method of masking, using liquid masker, may be preferred for smaller or awkwardly-shaped parts. To apply a liquid masker simply use an old, clean brush, and wait for it to dry. Once the part is painted it should be allowed to partially but not completely dry before the masker is removed. Completely dry paint runs the risk of “tearing” if the mask is removed, whereas paint that is too thin may flow to the masked part once the mask is removed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"When painting with a brush, always ensure that it is of appropriate size and that there are no loose or stray bristles.\", \"描述\": \"Brush painting should be reserved for small or isolated parts or parts that require a certain finish to them. Applying paint with a brush leaves striations in the direction of brush travel, and must not be used for exteriors or large surfaces.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"You should always follow the published instructions included with your airbrush, but some key points to especially remember are to keep you airbrush perpendicular and of fixed distance from your work, and to paint in one direction only (unless painting camouflage patterns).\", \"描述\": \"Airbrushing provides an even coat of paint, and while being better suited for large surfaces, may be used on smaller parts whose surroundings are properly masked.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Dry brushing is a technique that employs only a small amount of paint, usually to achieve the effect of weathering.\", \"描述\": \"To dry brush, take a dry paintbrush and apply a small amount of paint to it. Next, brush off any excess paint on a piece of paper until the result is an inconsistent streak of paint which resembles the weathering you are trying to achieve. Paint the weathering onto the model before the paint dries further. It may be necessary to reapply the paint and remove the excess several times before the level of weathering you want is reached.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"After painting, it may become apparent that some paint needs to be removed, whether it holds dust, has found its way onto an adjacent part, or simply is the wrong colour.\", \"描述\": \"To remove paint you may either scrape it off or use a solvent. Scraping is appropriate for small, flat parts and may be performed easily with a small, sharp knife. Solvents can range from specially designed paint removers to brake-fluid, but the method of application usually remains consistent. Using a brush, apply a small amount of solvent to the part you wish to remove paint from. After the designated amount of time, remove it carefully with a clean paper towel. Not only will the solvent come off on the towel, but a portion of the paint will, too. Repeat this process until all the paint has been removed. For large parts, it may be practical to submerge the entire part in a solvent to effectively remove the paint.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finishing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ensure that all paint and glue on your model is perfectly dry.\", \"描述\": \"It is good practice to start applying decals the day after you finish assembly and painting. Ensure also that your model is free of contaminants and dust, so nothing may be trapped underneath a decal.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut out all the decals you wish to apply with a sharp knife.\", \"描述\": \"It is not necessary to cut out the decals perfectly; rather you should leave a few millimeters around each decal to avoid cutting it accidentally.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill a bowl or shallow cup with warm water.\", \"描述\": \"The water should be at least lukewarm to remove the decals from the paper they are printed on, but not scalding hot. Never use boiling water to apply decals.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Hold the paper the decals are printed on with a pair of tweezers.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you are not gripping a part of the decal itself under the tweezers.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Submerge the decal in the warm water for approximately twenty seconds.\", \"描述\": \"At this time the decal will lose most of its adhesion to the paper and is ready to be applied to the model.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Hold the paper the decal is printed on close to the part you are applying the decal to.\", \"描述\": \"The edge of the paper must be lying on the edge of the part, so the decal is transferred immediately from paper to part. Using a clean, wet brush, maneuver the decal onto the part and position it accordingly. Ensure that all air bubbles and creases are removed from the decal by pushing them out with the brush.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Dry the decal by very gently by dabbing it with a clean paper towel.\", \"描述\": \"The decal should be left alone for an hour to allow it to dry completely. Until then, it may be accidentally repositioned. To reposition a partially dry decal, simply apply some warm water with the brush and maneuver it back into position.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Remember that whatever paint-removing solvent you use, it must not harm plastic.\\n\", \"A torn decal is not useless. Careful positioning of the damaged portions can restore the decal to a whole appearance.\\n\", \"You may want to watch several videos of people making the model that you are making. Sometimes, those videos have very useful information.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Knives and other sharp tools must be handled by experienced and responsible persons only.\\n\", \"Small parts may pose a choking hazard to small children and animals.\\n\", \"When applying solvents, paints, and glues, do so in a well-ventilated area. Observe all warnings and instructions printed on all your materials and tools.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,466 |
How to Build a Platform Bed
|
1. Steps
1-1. Measure your mattress.
Your platform should be 1 inch wider and 1 inch (2 to 3 cm) longer than your mattress, so when you put the mattress on the finished platform bed, there will be 1/2 inch (1 cm) of platform on each side.
1-2. Subtract 12 inches (30 cm) from the length and width of your mattress to get the measurements for the base of your platform.
The base should be smaller than the platform to keep you from stubbing your toes on the base when you get into bed.
1-3. Gather your materials.
In addition to the wood for your platform bed, you will need an assortment of tools and supplies, including painting or staining supplies.
1-4. Build the base of the platform using either 2-by-8- or 2-by-10-foot boards.
Consider things such as baseboard heaters, outlets and the thickness of your mattress when deciding how tall to build the platform.
1-5. Cut the boards to the correct size for the base and arrange them on their edges in a rectangle.
Measure and cut 2 or 3 crosspieces, depending on the size of the base, to fit inside the rectangle. Space the crosspieces at even intervals.
1-6. Assemble the base using wood screws.
Drill pilot holes for the screws in each board and apply carpenter's glue to the cut ends to help seal the joints. Use a carpenter's square to make sure all the boards meet at 90-degree angles.
1-7. Place short pieces of board in the gaps between cross pieces and screw them in place to help stabilize the base.
Stagger the pieces evenly.
1-8. Allow time for the glue to dry.
Cover the screw heads with wood putty, then paint or stain the outside of the base.
1-9. Assemble the platform in the same manner as the base, remembering that the length and width of the platform will be 12 inches greater than the base.
1-10. Set the platform on top of the base, center it carefully, and screw it to the base wherever the long boards of the platform meet the long board of the base.
Use long deck screws, remembering to drill pilot holes to keep the wood from splitting.
1-11. Fit a sheet of medium density fiberboard to the top of the platform.
Carefully apply carpenter's glue to the edges of the boards and screw the sheet to the platform, taking care to make sure the screws don't split the fiberboard.
1-12. Attach edging to the fiberboard sheet to hide the the unfinished edges.
1-13. Allow time for the glue to dry, cover the screw heads with wood putty, then stain or paint the platform.
1-14. Finished.
Tips
Buy a mattress that is 6 inches longer than the height of the tallest person who will sleep on it. Because people change positions during sleep, they can often find themselves hanging off a too-small mattress.
Ask for finish-quality wood for your platform bed. Softwood is easier to work with and can be stained or painted after proper conditioning. Hardwoods are more attractive, but more difficult to cut and drill. If you're certain of your measurements, consider having your fiberboard sheet cut at the store or lumberyard.
Warnings
Build your platform bed in the room where it will be used. Depending on its size and design, you may find that a platform bed built in the garage won't fit through the doors when you try to bring it to the bedroom.
Never assume that you know the measurements of your mattress. Even among standard sizes there is some variation; if you build your platform the wrong size, making a change will be difficult, if not impossible.
Don't buy your boards on the same day you plan to build your platform. Instead, buy it two weeks early and store it indoors. Don't stack the boards but lean them against a wall, placing small pieces of wood in between so air can circulate.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:54",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Measure your mattress.\\nYour platform should be 1 inch wider and 1 inch (2 to 3 cm) longer than your mattress, so when you put the mattress on the finished platform bed, there will be 1/2 inch (1 cm) of platform on each side.\\n1-2. Subtract 12 inches (30 cm) from the length and width of your mattress to get the measurements for the base of your platform.\\nThe base should be smaller than the platform to keep you from stubbing your toes on the base when you get into bed.\\n1-3. Gather your materials.\\nIn addition to the wood for your platform bed, you will need an assortment of tools and supplies, including painting or staining supplies.\\n1-4. Build the base of the platform using either 2-by-8- or 2-by-10-foot boards.\\nConsider things such as baseboard heaters, outlets and the thickness of your mattress when deciding how tall to build the platform.\\n1-5. Cut the boards to the correct size for the base and arrange them on their edges in a rectangle.\\nMeasure and cut 2 or 3 crosspieces, depending on the size of the base, to fit inside the rectangle. Space the crosspieces at even intervals.\\n1-6. Assemble the base using wood screws.\\nDrill pilot holes for the screws in each board and apply carpenter's glue to the cut ends to help seal the joints. Use a carpenter's square to make sure all the boards meet at 90-degree angles.\\n1-7. Place short pieces of board in the gaps between cross pieces and screw them in place to help stabilize the base.\\nStagger the pieces evenly.\\n1-8. Allow time for the glue to dry.\\nCover the screw heads with wood putty, then paint or stain the outside of the base.\\n1-9. Assemble the platform in the same manner as the base, remembering that the length and width of the platform will be 12 inches greater than the base.\\n\\n1-10. Set the platform on top of the base, center it carefully, and screw it to the base wherever the long boards of the platform meet the long board of the base.\\nUse long deck screws, remembering to drill pilot holes to keep the wood from splitting.\\n1-11. Fit a sheet of medium density fiberboard to the top of the platform.\\nCarefully apply carpenter's glue to the edges of the boards and screw the sheet to the platform, taking care to make sure the screws don't split the fiberboard.\\n1-12. Attach edging to the fiberboard sheet to hide the the unfinished edges.\\n\\n1-13. Allow time for the glue to dry, cover the screw heads with wood putty, then stain or paint the platform.\\n\\n1-14. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nBuy a mattress that is 6 inches longer than the height of the tallest person who will sleep on it. Because people change positions during sleep, they can often find themselves hanging off a too-small mattress.\\nAsk for finish-quality wood for your platform bed. Softwood is easier to work with and can be stained or painted after proper conditioning. Hardwoods are more attractive, but more difficult to cut and drill. If you're certain of your measurements, consider having your fiberboard sheet cut at the store or lumberyard.\\nWarnings\\nBuild your platform bed in the room where it will be used. Depending on its size and design, you may find that a platform bed built in the garage won't fit through the doors when you try to bring it to the bedroom.\\nNever assume that you know the measurements of your mattress. Even among standard sizes there is some variation; if you build your platform the wrong size, making a change will be difficult, if not impossible.\\nDon't buy your boards on the same day you plan to build your platform. Instead, buy it two weeks early and store it indoors. Don't stack the boards but lean them against a wall, placing small pieces of wood in between so air can circulate.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A platform bed is one that doesn't use a box spring or metal frame. Instead, it consists of a wooden platform and a mattress, sometimes with side rails, a headboard or drawers. Platform beds have existed throughout history, while box springs have only been available for about the last 150 years. Platform beds may be simple in design or heavily decorated, novice furniture makers can build a simple platform.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your mattress.\", \"描述\": \"Your platform should be 1 inch wider and 1 inch (2 to 3 cm) longer than your mattress, so when you put the mattress on the finished platform bed, there will be 1/2 inch (1 cm) of platform on each side.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Subtract 12 inches (30 cm) from the length and width of your mattress to get the measurements for the base of your platform.\", \"描述\": \"The base should be smaller than the platform to keep you from stubbing your toes on the base when you get into bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"In addition to the wood for your platform bed, you will need an assortment of tools and supplies, including painting or staining supplies.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build the base of the platform using either 2-by-8- or 2-by-10-foot boards.\", \"描述\": \"Consider things such as baseboard heaters, outlets and the thickness of your mattress when deciding how tall to build the platform.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the boards to the correct size for the base and arrange them on their edges in a rectangle.\", \"描述\": \"Measure and cut 2 or 3 crosspieces, depending on the size of the base, to fit inside the rectangle. Space the crosspieces at even intervals.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Assemble the base using wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"Drill pilot holes for the screws in each board and apply carpenter's glue to the cut ends to help seal the joints. Use a carpenter's square to make sure all the boards meet at 90-degree angles.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place short pieces of board in the gaps between cross pieces and screw them in place to help stabilize the base.\", \"描述\": \"Stagger the pieces evenly.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Allow time for the glue to dry.\", \"描述\": \"Cover the screw heads with wood putty, then paint or stain the outside of the base.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Assemble the platform in the same manner as the base, remembering that the length and width of the platform will be 12 inches greater than the base.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Set the platform on top of the base, center it carefully, and screw it to the base wherever the long boards of the platform meet the long board of the base.\", \"描述\": \"Use long deck screws, remembering to drill pilot holes to keep the wood from splitting.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Fit a sheet of medium density fiberboard to the top of the platform.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully apply carpenter's glue to the edges of the boards and screw the sheet to the platform, taking care to make sure the screws don't split the fiberboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Attach edging to the fiberboard sheet to hide the the unfinished edges.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Allow time for the glue to dry, cover the screw heads with wood putty, then stain or paint the platform.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Buy a mattress that is 6 inches longer than the height of the tallest person who will sleep on it. Because people change positions during sleep, they can often find themselves hanging off a too-small mattress.\\n\", \"Ask for finish-quality wood for your platform bed. Softwood is easier to work with and can be stained or painted after proper conditioning. Hardwoods are more attractive, but more difficult to cut and drill. If you're certain of your measurements, consider having your fiberboard sheet cut at the store or lumberyard.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Build your platform bed in the room where it will be used. Depending on its size and design, you may find that a platform bed built in the garage won't fit through the doors when you try to bring it to the bedroom.\\n\", \"Never assume that you know the measurements of your mattress. Even among standard sizes there is some variation; if you build your platform the wrong size, making a change will be difficult, if not impossible.\\n\", \"Don't buy your boards on the same day you plan to build your platform. Instead, buy it two weeks early and store it indoors. Don't stack the boards but lean them against a wall, placing small pieces of wood in between so air can circulate.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,467 |
How to Build a Playhouse
|
1. Building a Playhouse out of Wood
1-1. Gather your materials.
This is the most extensive and time-consuming method of building a playhouse, but it offers the best results. There is quite a long list of supplies though, so make sure you have gathered them all before you start building.
The materials you will need include 2x8 boards, 2x4 boards, ¾” plywood, 3” galvanized screws, 1”x6” decking planks, wood siding, quarter-round molding, shingles, and roofing nails.
You will need an assortment of tools including a circular saw, a jigsaw, a reciprocating saw, a drill, a level, a framing square, a hammer, a straight edge, a utility knife, and tape measure.
An option is to include plexiglass to create real windows rather than open-air spaces in your playhouse.
1-2. Choose a location.
The playhouse will measure 6x8 feet, and will need at least that much space plus a little extra room for an entrance. This playhouse is meant to be outdoors, but could certainly be placed indoors if you desired.
1-3. Create the base.
To build the base of the playhouse, you will be using your 2x8 boards and then covering it with the decking planks. This base will form the platform for the playhouse to sit on, and will also prove a 2’ porch in front of the entrance.
Form a 6x8 foot rectangle by measuring and cutting your 2x8 foot boards. Cut the two side boards to be one inch short so that they can fit between the two longest boards perfectly.
Use your 3” screws to butt-joint the boards together, creating an empty rectangle.
To add stability to the floor, use an additional two 2x8 foot boards to create floor joists. These should be cut to fit the space running lengthwise in the center floor, making the base four boards running the distance of 8 feet (2.4 m), and two boards on the ends running 6 feet (1.8 m). Use your three inch screws to secure these to the sides.
To cover the foundation and create the floor, measure and cut your 1”x6” deck planking to fit the base widthwise (the shorter distance). Use enough that they cover the entirety of the base, with no spaces between each board. Use your 3” screws to make sure they are completely attached.
Cut off any excess boards with your circular saw.
1-4. Create the wall frames.
To build the walls of the playhouse, you must first make empty frames for the sides to attach to. Measure 1” in on the perimeter of the base, because the wall frames will sit on the floor rather than being attached to the outside.
To make the back frame, first measure the boards which will create the top and bottom. These should be cut from your 2x4 boards, and measure 7’11” so that it doesn’t overlap the edge of the floor. Then take five 2x4 boards and measure them to 3’9” so that they will join evenly with the other frames without overlapping the desired 4’ width. Attach two of the 3’9” boards to the edges of the two 7’11” boards, creating an empty rectangle, Then add in the three support beams to the center of the rectangle, evenly spaced between them to create four smaller empty sections.
Create the front wall frame by doing the same process explained above in making the back wall frame. In addition to that, add a cross-board six inches below the topmost board between your choice of two studs. This will create the frame for the door.
Make the side walls by taking your 2x4 boards and cutting four of them (two for each side wall), to a length of 3’9”. Take four additional 2x4 boards and cut them to be 3’4” for the top and bottom of the sides. Use your galvanized screws to attach these, creating two rectangular sides. For each side, cut two 3’9” boards to add to the center of the frames for support. Add these to the centers of each side frame and attach them with the screws.
In each of the side frames, measure 9” from the top and bottom and add a board to fit between the studs here. This will create the frame for two side-windows.
1-5. Attach the wall frames to the base.
Starting with the back wall, stand it upright on the edge of the baseboards. Use multiple galvanized screws to secure it to the floor. Then, move to the side walls; attach these to the floor first, and then to the edges of the rear wall with more screws. The last wall to be added is the front wall. Remember, this one will have a two-foot space in front for a porch. Screw it into the floor and then to the two sides, making sure that it fits smoothly with the other wall frames.
1-6. Build the roof.
Once the wall frames are firmly attached to the floor, you can move onto making the roof for the playhouse. To do this, first create a frame, and then cover it with plywood.
Measure the ridgeboard, the board that will run lengthwise through the center of the triangle-shaped roof, to 7’11”.
Cut the struts, the supportive edge of the roof, out of 2x4 boards to 14” long. Miter these to the correct angle to fit against the ridgeboard and the top of the wall frames.
Create the eight rafters made from 2x4 inch boards. You will use four of each of these boards in the centers of the roof between the struts to give support to the roof. Miter these to fit the angle of the ridgeboard and the top of the wall frames.
Begin by attaching the struts to the ridgeboard, and then add the rafters. Attach this roof frame to the tops of the wall frames. There should be two empty isosceles triangle shapes at the ends of the frame, above the two side walls.
Cut plywood to fit the roof. You will attach shingles to the top of the plywood, so make sure the entirety of the roof frame is covered (excluding the side triangles). Screw these pieces to the top of the frame once you’ve gotten the correct measurements.
Screw the rafter and struts to the frame directly above the studs to add extra support to your playhouse structure.
1-7. Finish the walls.
Use your wood siding to add the outer edge to your walls. Measure the wall frames to make sure you get the correct size, and then cut the wood to fit. The two side pieces should be in the shape of a pentagon to include the triangle-shapes formed by the roof.
Screw the walls into the frame along the support beams.
Mark out the space for the windows and door. Use a jigsaw to cut out these pieces, sanding the rough edges when you finish. If you chose to use plexiglass for the windows, insert them now. Finish the windows (with or without the plexiglass) with the quarter round molding around the edges.
1-8. Shingle the roof.
Line up the first row of shingles along the edge, and then have all adjacent rows of shingles slightly overlap each other. Use four roofing nails per shingle to attach them to the plywood roof. Because the ridge board will be exposed, cut the sheets of shingles into individual pieces and turn them sideways. Nail them to the ridge board so that the entire roof is covered. Use your utility knife to cut off any excess shingles.
1-9. Finish your playhouse.
At this point, the building-process of your playhouse has been completed. Now you can add the finishing touches to it to make it unique. Paint the outside, add window-box planters, and put small-sized furniture inside. Enjoy your completed playhouse!
2. Building a Playhouse out of PVC Pipes
2-1. Gather your supplies.
You will need seven 10 foot (3.0 m) ¾” PVC pipes, ten converter pieces, a PVC pipe cutter, and fabric and a sewing kit or sewing machine to create the cover.
The ten converter pipe pieces all need to measure ¾”. You will need four T’s, four 45 degree angle elbows, and ten 3-way connectors.
2-2. To get fabric that will be big enough to cover the entire playhouse without spending a lot of money, buy sheets or unlined curtains.
You can buy these new or find them used and give them a good washing before use.
You may choose to use ribbons to sew to the inside of the fabric so that the tent portion can be tied on and removed to be washed whenever you desire.
2-3. Create the frame.
The frame will consist of a base and a top, four supporting beams, and a triangular roof piece. They will be put together.
To create the base and the top, cut the pipe into four pieces that measure 6 feet (1.8 m) long, and four pieces that measure 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Connect them into two large, separate rectangles with the 3-way connectors on each corner.
Slide a t-shaped connector facing upwards on each of the four corners of the top piece for the roof to connect to. You may have to cut 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) off the pipe to make room for these connectors to connect to the corners.
Create the support beams to form the walls. These can be cut at your discretion to meet your preferred ceiling height. You will need to cut four pieces of pipe all of an equal length. Attach them to the two corner slots at the top and bottom of the pipe, forming a large empty cube.
Make the roof. To do this, cut four additional pieces of pipe the same length as the sides. Fit them together at a right (90 degree) angle, creating two large ‘L’ shapes. You will need to use the 3-way corners to fit them. Then, cut another piece of pipe 6 feet (1.8 m) long, and run this down the center between the two L’s. Attach the entire roof structure to the base by putting them in the T-shaped slots on the top rectangle.
Make sure all the connections between the pipes are strong, and you are finished with the structure!
2-4. Make the tent covering.
Using the fabric you got, take a measurement of all the sides and the roof. Cut these pieces, and use a sewing machine to stitch all the sides together in the same shape as your playhouse.
It may be easier to attach the tent to the playhouse if you make it a little larger than the real size. This way, slipping it over the pipes and removing it for cleaning will be a cinch.
Sew 6-inch ribbons to the inside of the tent perpendicular to the seams, so that when the tent is placed on the pipe-frame they can be tied on to allow movement.
Cut a slit from the bottom till ¾ of the way up one of the sides to create a tent-flap style door.
If you want, you can cut holes in the sides to act as windows. Feel free to use a thick, clear plastic as play-glass to fill these holes.
2-5. Slide the tent over the pipes.
Once you have completely sewn the tent pieces together, you are finished! This can be used indoors or outdoors, and the fabric covering can easily be removed to wash.
3. Making a Playhouse out of a Table and Fabric
3-1. Gather your supplies.
For this project, you can choose to use a table that is of use in your house, or to procure a table especially for this project. You will also need several yards of fabric (enough to cover all sides of the table), scissors, and decorations (optional).
3-2. Measure your table.
In order to get an accurate cover for your table, you must have a list of all the measurements. Take a measurement of the length, width, and height. Make sure to write these down to keep track of them.
3-3. Measure your fabric.
You will be making the playhouse out of five pieces of fabric. You need one to fit the top of the table (length x width), two to fit the long sides (length x height), and two to fit the short sides (width x height).
When you’ve gotten all the measurements done, cut the pieces of fabric out.
At this point, cut out rectangular sections to act as windows and doors in the playhouse. These can be as numerous as you desire, placed wherever you want.
3-4. Sew the fabric pieces together.
Lay the pieces of fabric out in their correct shape/order on the floor, to make sure you are sewing them correctly. They should make a large cross-like shape. Then, use a sewing machine to stitch the fabric together along the seams.
3-5. Decorate the fabric.
If you want your playhouse look a little bit more exciting than just some fabric over a table, use sharpies, embroidery floss, or other pieces of fabric to give the fabric the appearance of a house. Draw on gingerbread trim, flower boxes under the windows, and a wood-grain texture on the walls.
3-6. Finish off your playhouse.
When you have done all the decorating you desire, throw the fabric tent over the table to complete your playhouse. Feel free to fill the inside with small pieces of furniture or toys, and enjoy!
4. Making a Playhouse out of Cardboard
4-1. Gather your materials.
For this, you will need 1-2 large cardboard boxes, all-purpose glue, wrapping paper or wallpaper, packing tape, and a box cutter or scissors.
4-2. Prepare your box.
Start by cutting off extraneous pieces so that the box lies upside down on the ground and has no bottom (or top, if it is right-side up). Tape all the seams and loose areas to make sure that it won’t fall apart.
4-3. Add color to the sides.
To give your playhouse a better appearance than just a cardboard box, cover the sides one at a time with an all-purpose glue and a wrapping paper or wallpaper of your choice.
4-4. Cut out the doors and windows.
Use a box-cutter or scissors to cut a small door from the bottom of one of the sides, and as many windows as you would like.
You can choose to cut only three sides of the door, leaving one “hinged” side attached so that the door can be open and closed instead of just an empty space.
You can add clear plastic or cellophane on the inside of the box to give the appearance of windows on the outside.
4-5. Create a roof.
To do this, cut two large triangle pieces of cardboard out from another box or a spare piece, making them the width of the house Then, cut out two large rectangles the same length as the box and height as the triangles.
Attach the four roof pieces together with glue and tape.
cut out cardboard “shingles” in small rectangles or semi-circles and glue these in an overlapping pattern over the top of the triangle. Cut off any extras that go over the edge.
If you want, you can use spray paint to give the roof a bit of color.
4-6. Put your house together.
Once the roof is finished, glue and tape it to the top of the cardboard box. You are finished! Feel free to add any further decorative touches, or enjoy it as-is.
Tips
To prevent the floor of the playhouse from squeaking you can put down roofing felt between the joists and the floorboard. It will also increase the weatherproofing.
Unless you are planning to run electricity in the playhouse make sure you build the playhouse in an area that gets a lot of sunlight.
Take your municipality's zoning requirements into consideration when creating your playhouse plans. If your playhouse is over a certain size you may need a permit.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:54",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Playhouse out of Wood\\n1-1. Gather your materials.\\nThis is the most extensive and time-consuming method of building a playhouse, but it offers the best results. There is quite a long list of supplies though, so make sure you have gathered them all before you start building.\\nThe materials you will need include 2x8 boards, 2x4 boards, ¾” plywood, 3” galvanized screws, 1”x6” decking planks, wood siding, quarter-round molding, shingles, and roofing nails.\\nYou will need an assortment of tools including a circular saw, a jigsaw, a reciprocating saw, a drill, a level, a framing square, a hammer, a straight edge, a utility knife, and tape measure.\\nAn option is to include plexiglass to create real windows rather than open-air spaces in your playhouse.\\n1-2. Choose a location.\\nThe playhouse will measure 6x8 feet, and will need at least that much space plus a little extra room for an entrance. This playhouse is meant to be outdoors, but could certainly be placed indoors if you desired.\\n1-3. Create the base.\\nTo build the base of the playhouse, you will be using your 2x8 boards and then covering it with the decking planks. This base will form the platform for the playhouse to sit on, and will also prove a 2’ porch in front of the entrance.\\nForm a 6x8 foot rectangle by measuring and cutting your 2x8 foot boards. Cut the two side boards to be one inch short so that they can fit between the two longest boards perfectly.\\nUse your 3” screws to butt-joint the boards together, creating an empty rectangle.\\nTo add stability to the floor, use an additional two 2x8 foot boards to create floor joists. These should be cut to fit the space running lengthwise in the center floor, making the base four boards running the distance of 8 feet (2.4 m), and two boards on the ends running 6 feet (1.8 m). Use your three inch screws to secure these to the sides.\\nTo cover the foundation and create the floor, measure and cut your 1”x6” deck planking to fit the base widthwise (the shorter distance). Use enough that they cover the entirety of the base, with no spaces between each board. Use your 3” screws to make sure they are completely attached.\\nCut off any excess boards with your circular saw.\\n1-4. Create the wall frames.\\nTo build the walls of the playhouse, you must first make empty frames for the sides to attach to. Measure 1” in on the perimeter of the base, because the wall frames will sit on the floor rather than being attached to the outside.\\nTo make the back frame, first measure the boards which will create the top and bottom. These should be cut from your 2x4 boards, and measure 7’11” so that it doesn’t overlap the edge of the floor. Then take five 2x4 boards and measure them to 3’9” so that they will join evenly with the other frames without overlapping the desired 4’ width. Attach two of the 3’9” boards to the edges of the two 7’11” boards, creating an empty rectangle, Then add in the three support beams to the center of the rectangle, evenly spaced between them to create four smaller empty sections.\\nCreate the front wall frame by doing the same process explained above in making the back wall frame. In addition to that, add a cross-board six inches below the topmost board between your choice of two studs. This will create the frame for the door.\\nMake the side walls by taking your 2x4 boards and cutting four of them (two for each side wall), to a length of 3’9”. Take four additional 2x4 boards and cut them to be 3’4” for the top and bottom of the sides. Use your galvanized screws to attach these, creating two rectangular sides. For each side, cut two 3’9” boards to add to the center of the frames for support. Add these to the centers of each side frame and attach them with the screws.\\nIn each of the side frames, measure 9” from the top and bottom and add a board to fit between the studs here. This will create the frame for two side-windows.\\n1-5. Attach the wall frames to the base.\\nStarting with the back wall, stand it upright on the edge of the baseboards. Use multiple galvanized screws to secure it to the floor. Then, move to the side walls; attach these to the floor first, and then to the edges of the rear wall with more screws. The last wall to be added is the front wall. Remember, this one will have a two-foot space in front for a porch. Screw it into the floor and then to the two sides, making sure that it fits smoothly with the other wall frames.\\n1-6. Build the roof.\\nOnce the wall frames are firmly attached to the floor, you can move onto making the roof for the playhouse. To do this, first create a frame, and then cover it with plywood.\\nMeasure the ridgeboard, the board that will run lengthwise through the center of the triangle-shaped roof, to 7’11”.\\nCut the struts, the supportive edge of the roof, out of 2x4 boards to 14” long. Miter these to the correct angle to fit against the ridgeboard and the top of the wall frames.\\nCreate the eight rafters made from 2x4 inch boards. You will use four of each of these boards in the centers of the roof between the struts to give support to the roof. Miter these to fit the angle of the ridgeboard and the top of the wall frames.\\nBegin by attaching the struts to the ridgeboard, and then add the rafters. Attach this roof frame to the tops of the wall frames. There should be two empty isosceles triangle shapes at the ends of the frame, above the two side walls.\\nCut plywood to fit the roof. You will attach shingles to the top of the plywood, so make sure the entirety of the roof frame is covered (excluding the side triangles). Screw these pieces to the top of the frame once you’ve gotten the correct measurements.\\nScrew the rafter and struts to the frame directly above the studs to add extra support to your playhouse structure.\\n1-7. Finish the walls.\\nUse your wood siding to add the outer edge to your walls. Measure the wall frames to make sure you get the correct size, and then cut the wood to fit. The two side pieces should be in the shape of a pentagon to include the triangle-shapes formed by the roof.\\nScrew the walls into the frame along the support beams.\\nMark out the space for the windows and door. Use a jigsaw to cut out these pieces, sanding the rough edges when you finish. If you chose to use plexiglass for the windows, insert them now. Finish the windows (with or without the plexiglass) with the quarter round molding around the edges.\\n1-8. Shingle the roof.\\nLine up the first row of shingles along the edge, and then have all adjacent rows of shingles slightly overlap each other. Use four roofing nails per shingle to attach them to the plywood roof. Because the ridge board will be exposed, cut the sheets of shingles into individual pieces and turn them sideways. Nail them to the ridge board so that the entire roof is covered. Use your utility knife to cut off any excess shingles.\\n1-9. Finish your playhouse.\\nAt this point, the building-process of your playhouse has been completed. Now you can add the finishing touches to it to make it unique. Paint the outside, add window-box planters, and put small-sized furniture inside. Enjoy your completed playhouse!\\n2. Building a Playhouse out of PVC Pipes\\n2-1. Gather your supplies.\\nYou will need seven 10 foot (3.0 m) ¾” PVC pipes, ten converter pieces, a PVC pipe cutter, and fabric and a sewing kit or sewing machine to create the cover.\\nThe ten converter pipe pieces all need to measure ¾”. You will need four T’s, four 45 degree angle elbows, and ten 3-way connectors.\\n2-2. To get fabric that will be big enough to cover the entire playhouse without spending a lot of money, buy sheets or unlined curtains.\\nYou can buy these new or find them used and give them a good washing before use.\\nYou may choose to use ribbons to sew to the inside of the fabric so that the tent portion can be tied on and removed to be washed whenever you desire.\\n2-3. Create the frame.\\nThe frame will consist of a base and a top, four supporting beams, and a triangular roof piece. They will be put together.\\nTo create the base and the top, cut the pipe into four pieces that measure 6 feet (1.8 m) long, and four pieces that measure 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Connect them into two large, separate rectangles with the 3-way connectors on each corner.\\nSlide a t-shaped connector facing upwards on each of the four corners of the top piece for the roof to connect to. You may have to cut 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) off the pipe to make room for these connectors to connect to the corners.\\nCreate the support beams to form the walls. These can be cut at your discretion to meet your preferred ceiling height. You will need to cut four pieces of pipe all of an equal length. Attach them to the two corner slots at the top and bottom of the pipe, forming a large empty cube.\\nMake the roof. To do this, cut four additional pieces of pipe the same length as the sides. Fit them together at a right (90 degree) angle, creating two large ‘L’ shapes. You will need to use the 3-way corners to fit them. Then, cut another piece of pipe 6 feet (1.8 m) long, and run this down the center between the two L’s. Attach the entire roof structure to the base by putting them in the T-shaped slots on the top rectangle.\\nMake sure all the connections between the pipes are strong, and you are finished with the structure!\\n2-4. Make the tent covering.\\nUsing the fabric you got, take a measurement of all the sides and the roof. Cut these pieces, and use a sewing machine to stitch all the sides together in the same shape as your playhouse.\\nIt may be easier to attach the tent to the playhouse if you make it a little larger than the real size. This way, slipping it over the pipes and removing it for cleaning will be a cinch.\\nSew 6-inch ribbons to the inside of the tent perpendicular to the seams, so that when the tent is placed on the pipe-frame they can be tied on to allow movement.\\nCut a slit from the bottom till ¾ of the way up one of the sides to create a tent-flap style door.\\nIf you want, you can cut holes in the sides to act as windows. Feel free to use a thick, clear plastic as play-glass to fill these holes.\\n2-5. Slide the tent over the pipes.\\nOnce you have completely sewn the tent pieces together, you are finished! This can be used indoors or outdoors, and the fabric covering can easily be removed to wash.\\n3. Making a Playhouse out of a Table and Fabric\\n3-1. Gather your supplies.\\nFor this project, you can choose to use a table that is of use in your house, or to procure a table especially for this project. You will also need several yards of fabric (enough to cover all sides of the table), scissors, and decorations (optional).\\n3-2. Measure your table.\\nIn order to get an accurate cover for your table, you must have a list of all the measurements. Take a measurement of the length, width, and height. Make sure to write these down to keep track of them.\\n3-3. Measure your fabric.\\nYou will be making the playhouse out of five pieces of fabric. You need one to fit the top of the table (length x width), two to fit the long sides (length x height), and two to fit the short sides (width x height).\\nWhen you’ve gotten all the measurements done, cut the pieces of fabric out.\\nAt this point, cut out rectangular sections to act as windows and doors in the playhouse. These can be as numerous as you desire, placed wherever you want.\\n3-4. Sew the fabric pieces together.\\nLay the pieces of fabric out in their correct shape/order on the floor, to make sure you are sewing them correctly. They should make a large cross-like shape. Then, use a sewing machine to stitch the fabric together along the seams.\\n3-5. Decorate the fabric.\\nIf you want your playhouse look a little bit more exciting than just some fabric over a table, use sharpies, embroidery floss, or other pieces of fabric to give the fabric the appearance of a house. Draw on gingerbread trim, flower boxes under the windows, and a wood-grain texture on the walls.\\n3-6. Finish off your playhouse.\\nWhen you have done all the decorating you desire, throw the fabric tent over the table to complete your playhouse. Feel free to fill the inside with small pieces of furniture or toys, and enjoy!\\n4. Making a Playhouse out of Cardboard\\n4-1. Gather your materials.\\nFor this, you will need 1-2 large cardboard boxes, all-purpose glue, wrapping paper or wallpaper, packing tape, and a box cutter or scissors.\\n4-2. Prepare your box.\\nStart by cutting off extraneous pieces so that the box lies upside down on the ground and has no bottom (or top, if it is right-side up). Tape all the seams and loose areas to make sure that it won’t fall apart.\\n4-3. Add color to the sides.\\nTo give your playhouse a better appearance than just a cardboard box, cover the sides one at a time with an all-purpose glue and a wrapping paper or wallpaper of your choice.\\n4-4. Cut out the doors and windows.\\nUse a box-cutter or scissors to cut a small door from the bottom of one of the sides, and as many windows as you would like.\\nYou can choose to cut only three sides of the door, leaving one “hinged” side attached so that the door can be open and closed instead of just an empty space.\\nYou can add clear plastic or cellophane on the inside of the box to give the appearance of windows on the outside.\\n4-5. Create a roof.\\nTo do this, cut two large triangle pieces of cardboard out from another box or a spare piece, making them the width of the house Then, cut out two large rectangles the same length as the box and height as the triangles.\\nAttach the four roof pieces together with glue and tape.\\ncut out cardboard “shingles” in small rectangles or semi-circles and glue these in an overlapping pattern over the top of the triangle. Cut off any extras that go over the edge.\\nIf you want, you can use spray paint to give the roof a bit of color.\\n4-6. Put your house together.\\nOnce the roof is finished, glue and tape it to the top of the cardboard box. You are finished! Feel free to add any further decorative touches, or enjoy it as-is.\\nTips\\nTo prevent the floor of the playhouse from squeaking you can put down roofing felt between the joists and the floorboard. It will also increase the weatherproofing.\\nUnless you are planning to run electricity in the playhouse make sure you build the playhouse in an area that gets a lot of sunlight.\\nTake your municipality's zoning requirements into consideration when creating your playhouse plans. If your playhouse is over a certain size you may need a permit.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A child's playhouse is a wonderful place for creative play. Building a playhouse is a great family project that everyone will enjoy participating in. Your children will love having their own playhouse and will delight in planning and decorating their house with you. Follow these steps to learn how you can build a playhouse.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Playhouse out of Wood\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"This is the most extensive and time-consuming method of building a playhouse, but it offers the best results. There is quite a long list of supplies though, so make sure you have gathered them all before you start building.\\nThe materials you will need include 2x8 boards, 2x4 boards, ¾” plywood, 3” galvanized screws, 1”x6” decking planks, wood siding, quarter-round molding, shingles, and roofing nails.\\nYou will need an assortment of tools including a circular saw, a jigsaw, a reciprocating saw, a drill, a level, a framing square, a hammer, a straight edge, a utility knife, and tape measure.\\nAn option is to include plexiglass to create real windows rather than open-air spaces in your playhouse.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a location.\", \"描述\": \"The playhouse will measure 6x8 feet, and will need at least that much space plus a little extra room for an entrance. This playhouse is meant to be outdoors, but could certainly be placed indoors if you desired.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create the base.\", \"描述\": \"To build the base of the playhouse, you will be using your 2x8 boards and then covering it with the decking planks. This base will form the platform for the playhouse to sit on, and will also prove a 2’ porch in front of the entrance.\\nForm a 6x8 foot rectangle by measuring and cutting your 2x8 foot boards. Cut the two side boards to be one inch short so that they can fit between the two longest boards perfectly.\\nUse your 3” screws to butt-joint the boards together, creating an empty rectangle.\\nTo add stability to the floor, use an additional two 2x8 foot boards to create floor joists. These should be cut to fit the space running lengthwise in the center floor, making the base four boards running the distance of 8 feet (2.4 m), and two boards on the ends running 6 feet (1.8 m). Use your three inch screws to secure these to the sides.\\nTo cover the foundation and create the floor, measure and cut your 1”x6” deck planking to fit the base widthwise (the shorter distance). Use enough that they cover the entirety of the base, with no spaces between each board. Use your 3” screws to make sure they are completely attached.\\nCut off any excess boards with your circular saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create the wall frames.\", \"描述\": \"To build the walls of the playhouse, you must first make empty frames for the sides to attach to. Measure 1” in on the perimeter of the base, because the wall frames will sit on the floor rather than being attached to the outside.\\nTo make the back frame, first measure the boards which will create the top and bottom. These should be cut from your 2x4 boards, and measure 7’11” so that it doesn’t overlap the edge of the floor. Then take five 2x4 boards and measure them to 3’9” so that they will join evenly with the other frames without overlapping the desired 4’ width. Attach two of the 3’9” boards to the edges of the two 7’11” boards, creating an empty rectangle, Then add in the three support beams to the center of the rectangle, evenly spaced between them to create four smaller empty sections.\\nCreate the front wall frame by doing the same process explained above in making the back wall frame. In addition to that, add a cross-board six inches below the topmost board between your choice of two studs. This will create the frame for the door.\\nMake the side walls by taking your 2x4 boards and cutting four of them (two for each side wall), to a length of 3’9”. Take four additional 2x4 boards and cut them to be 3’4” for the top and bottom of the sides. Use your galvanized screws to attach these, creating two rectangular sides. For each side, cut two 3’9” boards to add to the center of the frames for support. Add these to the centers of each side frame and attach them with the screws.\\nIn each of the side frames, measure 9” from the top and bottom and add a board to fit between the studs here. This will create the frame for two side-windows.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the wall frames to the base.\", \"描述\": \"Starting with the back wall, stand it upright on the edge of the baseboards. Use multiple galvanized screws to secure it to the floor. Then, move to the side walls; attach these to the floor first, and then to the edges of the rear wall with more screws. The last wall to be added is the front wall. Remember, this one will have a two-foot space in front for a porch. Screw it into the floor and then to the two sides, making sure that it fits smoothly with the other wall frames.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Once the wall frames are firmly attached to the floor, you can move onto making the roof for the playhouse. To do this, first create a frame, and then cover it with plywood.\\nMeasure the ridgeboard, the board that will run lengthwise through the center of the triangle-shaped roof, to 7’11”.\\nCut the struts, the supportive edge of the roof, out of 2x4 boards to 14” long. Miter these to the correct angle to fit against the ridgeboard and the top of the wall frames.\\nCreate the eight rafters made from 2x4 inch boards. You will use four of each of these boards in the centers of the roof between the struts to give support to the roof. Miter these to fit the angle of the ridgeboard and the top of the wall frames.\\nBegin by attaching the struts to the ridgeboard, and then add the rafters. Attach this roof frame to the tops of the wall frames. There should be two empty isosceles triangle shapes at the ends of the frame, above the two side walls.\\nCut plywood to fit the roof. You will attach shingles to the top of the plywood, so make sure the entirety of the roof frame is covered (excluding the side triangles). Screw these pieces to the top of the frame once you’ve gotten the correct measurements.\\nScrew the rafter and struts to the frame directly above the studs to add extra support to your playhouse structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Finish the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Use your wood siding to add the outer edge to your walls. Measure the wall frames to make sure you get the correct size, and then cut the wood to fit. The two side pieces should be in the shape of a pentagon to include the triangle-shapes formed by the roof.\\nScrew the walls into the frame along the support beams.\\nMark out the space for the windows and door. Use a jigsaw to cut out these pieces, sanding the rough edges when you finish. If you chose to use plexiglass for the windows, insert them now. Finish the windows (with or without the plexiglass) with the quarter round molding around the edges.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Shingle the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Line up the first row of shingles along the edge, and then have all adjacent rows of shingles slightly overlap each other. Use four roofing nails per shingle to attach them to the plywood roof. Because the ridge board will be exposed, cut the sheets of shingles into individual pieces and turn them sideways. Nail them to the ridge board so that the entire roof is covered. Use your utility knife to cut off any excess shingles.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Finish your playhouse.\", \"描述\": \"At this point, the building-process of your playhouse has been completed. Now you can add the finishing touches to it to make it unique. Paint the outside, add window-box planters, and put small-sized furniture inside. Enjoy your completed playhouse!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Playhouse out of PVC Pipes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"You will need seven 10 foot (3.0 m) ¾” PVC pipes, ten converter pieces, a PVC pipe cutter, and fabric and a sewing kit or sewing machine to create the cover.\\nThe ten converter pipe pieces all need to measure ¾”. You will need four T’s, four 45 degree angle elbows, and ten 3-way connectors.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"To get fabric that will be big enough to cover the entire playhouse without spending a lot of money, buy sheets or unlined curtains.\", \"描述\": \"You can buy these new or find them used and give them a good washing before use.\\nYou may choose to use ribbons to sew to the inside of the fabric so that the tent portion can be tied on and removed to be washed whenever you desire.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create the frame.\", \"描述\": \"The frame will consist of a base and a top, four supporting beams, and a triangular roof piece. They will be put together.\\nTo create the base and the top, cut the pipe into four pieces that measure 6 feet (1.8 m) long, and four pieces that measure 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Connect them into two large, separate rectangles with the 3-way connectors on each corner.\\nSlide a t-shaped connector facing upwards on each of the four corners of the top piece for the roof to connect to. You may have to cut 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) off the pipe to make room for these connectors to connect to the corners.\\nCreate the support beams to form the walls. These can be cut at your discretion to meet your preferred ceiling height. You will need to cut four pieces of pipe all of an equal length. Attach them to the two corner slots at the top and bottom of the pipe, forming a large empty cube.\\nMake the roof. To do this, cut four additional pieces of pipe the same length as the sides. Fit them together at a right (90 degree) angle, creating two large ‘L’ shapes. You will need to use the 3-way corners to fit them. Then, cut another piece of pipe 6 feet (1.8 m) long, and run this down the center between the two L’s. Attach the entire roof structure to the base by putting them in the T-shaped slots on the top rectangle.\\nMake sure all the connections between the pipes are strong, and you are finished with the structure!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make the tent covering.\", \"描述\": \"Using the fabric you got, take a measurement of all the sides and the roof. Cut these pieces, and use a sewing machine to stitch all the sides together in the same shape as your playhouse.\\nIt may be easier to attach the tent to the playhouse if you make it a little larger than the real size. This way, slipping it over the pipes and removing it for cleaning will be a cinch.\\nSew 6-inch ribbons to the inside of the tent perpendicular to the seams, so that when the tent is placed on the pipe-frame they can be tied on to allow movement.\\nCut a slit from the bottom till ¾ of the way up one of the sides to create a tent-flap style door.\\nIf you want, you can cut holes in the sides to act as windows. Feel free to use a thick, clear plastic as play-glass to fill these holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Slide the tent over the pipes.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have completely sewn the tent pieces together, you are finished! This can be used indoors or outdoors, and the fabric covering can easily be removed to wash.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making a Playhouse out of a Table and Fabric\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"For this project, you can choose to use a table that is of use in your house, or to procure a table especially for this project. You will also need several yards of fabric (enough to cover all sides of the table), scissors, and decorations (optional).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure your table.\", \"描述\": \"In order to get an accurate cover for your table, you must have a list of all the measurements. Take a measurement of the length, width, and height. Make sure to write these down to keep track of them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure your fabric.\", \"描述\": \"You will be making the playhouse out of five pieces of fabric. You need one to fit the top of the table (length x width), two to fit the long sides (length x height), and two to fit the short sides (width x height).\\nWhen you’ve gotten all the measurements done, cut the pieces of fabric out.\\nAt this point, cut out rectangular sections to act as windows and doors in the playhouse. These can be as numerous as you desire, placed wherever you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Sew the fabric pieces together.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the pieces of fabric out in their correct shape/order on the floor, to make sure you are sewing them correctly. They should make a large cross-like shape. Then, use a sewing machine to stitch the fabric together along the seams.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Decorate the fabric.\", \"描述\": \"If you want your playhouse look a little bit more exciting than just some fabric over a table, use sharpies, embroidery floss, or other pieces of fabric to give the fabric the appearance of a house. Draw on gingerbread trim, flower boxes under the windows, and a wood-grain texture on the walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Finish off your playhouse.\", \"描述\": \"When you have done all the decorating you desire, throw the fabric tent over the table to complete your playhouse. Feel free to fill the inside with small pieces of furniture or toys, and enjoy!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Making a Playhouse out of Cardboard\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"For this, you will need 1-2 large cardboard boxes, all-purpose glue, wrapping paper or wallpaper, packing tape, and a box cutter or scissors.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare your box.\", \"描述\": \"Start by cutting off extraneous pieces so that the box lies upside down on the ground and has no bottom (or top, if it is right-side up). Tape all the seams and loose areas to make sure that it won’t fall apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add color to the sides.\", \"描述\": \"To give your playhouse a better appearance than just a cardboard box, cover the sides one at a time with an all-purpose glue and a wrapping paper or wallpaper of your choice.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut out the doors and windows.\", \"描述\": \"Use a box-cutter or scissors to cut a small door from the bottom of one of the sides, and as many windows as you would like.\\nYou can choose to cut only three sides of the door, leaving one “hinged” side attached so that the door can be open and closed instead of just an empty space.\\nYou can add clear plastic or cellophane on the inside of the box to give the appearance of windows on the outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create a roof.\", \"描述\": \"To do this, cut two large triangle pieces of cardboard out from another box or a spare piece, making them the width of the house Then, cut out two large rectangles the same length as the box and height as the triangles.\\nAttach the four roof pieces together with glue and tape.\\ncut out cardboard “shingles” in small rectangles or semi-circles and glue these in an overlapping pattern over the top of the triangle. Cut off any extras that go over the edge.\\nIf you want, you can use spray paint to give the roof a bit of color.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Put your house together.\", \"描述\": \"Once the roof is finished, glue and tape it to the top of the cardboard box. You are finished! Feel free to add any further decorative touches, or enjoy it as-is.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"To prevent the floor of the playhouse from squeaking you can put down roofing felt between the joists and the floorboard. It will also increase the weatherproofing.\\n\", \"Unless you are planning to run electricity in the playhouse make sure you build the playhouse in an area that gets a lot of sunlight.\\n\", \"Take your municipality's zoning requirements into consideration when creating your playhouse plans. If your playhouse is over a certain size you may need a permit.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,468 |
How to Build a Plywood Boat
|
1. Steps
1-1. Decide which body of water you will be using the boat on.
Then choose an appropriate boat design for this body of water. You will never have a boat that will do everything, so don't even try. Don't build a 24' Tolman Alaskan Skiff expecting to use it on a small lake, Midwest river, or pond. On the other hand, taking your 12' rowboat 10 miles (16 km) out in the Gulf of Mexico is probably not the best idea either!
1-2. Buy plans from a reputable boat designer.
Sorry to inform you, but free boat plans are just that...free. You get what you pay for, so if you want general information, sixty year old, antiquated, difficult-to-read, boat plans then by all means download the freebies that are so prevalent on the internet, but spend the $50-$150 for good plans and you will be very glad you did. It will save you money in the long run.
1-3. Buy quality materials.
A plywood boat can be beautiful if built, finished, and painted correctly. Using cheap materials will result in poor performance and could be dangerous to your health, depending on which body of water you are using your boat, how far from land you are, and how well you sealed your hull!
1-4. Use marine grade plywood (fir, meranti, okoume).
It has no voids and will not de-laminate. It will also use much less epoxy resin as it won't have voids that are common to many cheaper residential construction-grade plywood.
1-5. Use a quality Epoxy Resin.
Some good brands are Aeromarine, System Three, West Marine, and Mas. The boat designer should include the amount of epoxy needed to build the boat design you choose in his/her plans. Also, buying 5–15 gallon (18.9–56.8 L) kits is the best way to save money. If you are building a larger boat you may be able to have your epoxy supplier drop ship your epoxy on a pallet to save you money on shipping.
1-6. Learn how to lay fiberglass cloth.
Sorry to those of you who thought you wouldn't have to fiberglass your boat, but the truth is 99% of good plywood boat designs are covered in fiberglass.
YouTube has many good how-to lay fiberglass videos; however finding someone local who lays fiberglass is the best way to get some hands on training. There are dozens of good marine supply stores online that will sell you a quality fiberglass and your boat plans should have the amount (length in yards) and weight (ounces) of cloth you will use on your boat.
1-7. Give your boat a nice finish.
Of course, some of you won't care, but if you want to hear the oohs and aahs at the dock or launch giving your boat a nice finish with marine paint is the key to the longevity of your fiberglass work and the appearance of your boat. Fairing (smoothing and filling your fiberglass cloth grid...think Bondo on a car) and sanding are key to a beautiful show quality finish, but may not be necessary for a work boat in the bayou.
1-8. Use your boat, a lot!
Warnings
This information is only that a quick overview of boat-building and not in-depth Coast Guard approved advice.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:54",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Decide which body of water you will be using the boat on.\\nThen choose an appropriate boat design for this body of water. You will never have a boat that will do everything, so don't even try. Don't build a 24' Tolman Alaskan Skiff expecting to use it on a small lake, Midwest river, or pond. On the other hand, taking your 12' rowboat 10 miles (16 km) out in the Gulf of Mexico is probably not the best idea either!\\n1-2. Buy plans from a reputable boat designer.\\nSorry to inform you, but free boat plans are just that...free. You get what you pay for, so if you want general information, sixty year old, antiquated, difficult-to-read, boat plans then by all means download the freebies that are so prevalent on the internet, but spend the $50-$150 for good plans and you will be very glad you did. It will save you money in the long run.\\n1-3. Buy quality materials.\\nA plywood boat can be beautiful if built, finished, and painted correctly. Using cheap materials will result in poor performance and could be dangerous to your health, depending on which body of water you are using your boat, how far from land you are, and how well you sealed your hull!\\n1-4. Use marine grade plywood (fir, meranti, okoume).\\nIt has no voids and will not de-laminate. It will also use much less epoxy resin as it won't have voids that are common to many cheaper residential construction-grade plywood.\\n1-5. Use a quality Epoxy Resin.\\nSome good brands are Aeromarine, System Three, West Marine, and Mas. The boat designer should include the amount of epoxy needed to build the boat design you choose in his/her plans. Also, buying 5–15 gallon (18.9–56.8 L) kits is the best way to save money. If you are building a larger boat you may be able to have your epoxy supplier drop ship your epoxy on a pallet to save you money on shipping.\\n1-6. Learn how to lay fiberglass cloth.\\nSorry to those of you who thought you wouldn't have to fiberglass your boat, but the truth is 99% of good plywood boat designs are covered in fiberglass.\\nYouTube has many good how-to lay fiberglass videos; however finding someone local who lays fiberglass is the best way to get some hands on training. There are dozens of good marine supply stores online that will sell you a quality fiberglass and your boat plans should have the amount (length in yards) and weight (ounces) of cloth you will use on your boat.\\n1-7. Give your boat a nice finish.\\nOf course, some of you won't care, but if you want to hear the oohs and aahs at the dock or launch giving your boat a nice finish with marine paint is the key to the longevity of your fiberglass work and the appearance of your boat. Fairing (smoothing and filling your fiberglass cloth grid...think Bondo on a car) and sanding are key to a beautiful show quality finish, but may not be necessary for a work boat in the bayou.\\n1-8. Use your boat, a lot!\\n\\nWarnings\\nThis information is only that a quick overview of boat-building and not in-depth Coast Guard approved advice.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building your own plywood (stitch and glue) boat is a low cost and light weight alternative to spending $10,000+ on an expensive commercially built boat that is difficult to trailer, very heavy, and guzzles gas. Online research, low-cost study plans, and talking to someone who has built their own boat, will help you decide which boat is best for you.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide which body of water you will be using the boat on.\", \"描述\": \"Then choose an appropriate boat design for this body of water. You will never have a boat that will do everything, so don't even try. Don't build a 24' Tolman Alaskan Skiff expecting to use it on a small lake, Midwest river, or pond. On the other hand, taking your 12' rowboat 10 miles (16 km) out in the Gulf of Mexico is probably not the best idea either!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy plans from a reputable boat designer.\", \"描述\": \"Sorry to inform you, but free boat plans are just that...free. You get what you pay for, so if you want general information, sixty year old, antiquated, difficult-to-read, boat plans then by all means download the freebies that are so prevalent on the internet, but spend the $50-$150 for good plans and you will be very glad you did. It will save you money in the long run.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Buy quality materials.\", \"描述\": \"A plywood boat can be beautiful if built, finished, and painted correctly. Using cheap materials will result in poor performance and could be dangerous to your health, depending on which body of water you are using your boat, how far from land you are, and how well you sealed your hull!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use marine grade plywood (fir, meranti, okoume).\", \"描述\": \"It has no voids and will not de-laminate. It will also use much less epoxy resin as it won't have voids that are common to many cheaper residential construction-grade plywood.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use a quality Epoxy Resin.\", \"描述\": \"Some good brands are Aeromarine, System Three, West Marine, and Mas. The boat designer should include the amount of epoxy needed to build the boat design you choose in his/her plans. Also, buying 5–15 gallon (18.9–56.8 L) kits is the best way to save money. If you are building a larger boat you may be able to have your epoxy supplier drop ship your epoxy on a pallet to save you money on shipping.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Learn how to lay fiberglass cloth.\", \"描述\": \"Sorry to those of you who thought you wouldn't have to fiberglass your boat, but the truth is 99% of good plywood boat designs are covered in fiberglass.\\nYouTube has many good how-to lay fiberglass videos; however finding someone local who lays fiberglass is the best way to get some hands on training. There are dozens of good marine supply stores online that will sell you a quality fiberglass and your boat plans should have the amount (length in yards) and weight (ounces) of cloth you will use on your boat.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Give your boat a nice finish.\", \"描述\": \"Of course, some of you won't care, but if you want to hear the oohs and aahs at the dock or launch giving your boat a nice finish with marine paint is the key to the longevity of your fiberglass work and the appearance of your boat. Fairing (smoothing and filling your fiberglass cloth grid...think Bondo on a car) and sanding are key to a beautiful show quality finish, but may not be necessary for a work boat in the bayou.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Use your boat, a lot!\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"This information is only that a quick overview of boat-building and not in-depth Coast Guard approved advice.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,469 |
How to Build a Plywood Canoe
|
1. Steps
1-1. Cut out two strips of plywood 10 inches (25.4cm) wide by 8 feet (2.4 m) (243.8cm) long.
Put a slight slope onto each end, if you like.Put the two strips on top of one another, and drill a series of 4 holes through both, at each end. Use small cable ties to fasten them together.
1-2. Get your child to sit on the remaining sheet of plywood, and pull open the two strips of plywood, lifting them over the child's head and onto the plywood (or you could just make a decision for your child, the wider the better).
The child can then decide what shape the canoe should be, by pushing the sides out. The wider the canoe, the more stable it will be on the water.
1-3. Hold the sides carefully, and get someone to draw around the shape on the bottom sheet of plywood.Cut out the bottom of the canoe, and fasten it to the sides with the cable ties.
Plop the "tails" of the cable ties on the outside of the boat.
1-4. Use polyester resin and 2 inch (50.8mm) wide glass fibre tape to seal the seams.
When the resin has dried, turn the boat over and cut off all the cable ties. Use an electric planer to tidy up the outside before using the resin and tape on the outside seams. A small deck can be added at each end, or simply a "stick" across between the gunwales to keep the sides apart.
1-5. Put edging strips along the top (gunwale) of the canoe.
1-6. Coat the whole boat with exterior varnish.
1-7. Work fast.
You can complete the whole job in two to three weekends.
1-8. Finished.
Tips
When cutting the 2 pieces of plywood (in step 1) you may add a slope to them if you wish.
Warnings
Inspect the craft for proper operation before allowing inexperienced persons to use it.
Always insist every passenger wears a buoyancy aid (Life Jacket/ Life Vest) when using the canoe.
Make sure children never canoe alone.
Use vinyl gloves when handling resin.
Always use polyester resin in well ventilated areas.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:54",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Cut out two strips of plywood 10 inches (25.4cm) wide by 8 feet (2.4 m) (243.8cm) long.\\nPut a slight slope onto each end, if you like.Put the two strips on top of one another, and drill a series of 4 holes through both, at each end. Use small cable ties to fasten them together.\\n1-2. Get your child to sit on the remaining sheet of plywood, and pull open the two strips of plywood, lifting them over the child's head and onto the plywood (or you could just make a decision for your child, the wider the better).\\nThe child can then decide what shape the canoe should be, by pushing the sides out. The wider the canoe, the more stable it will be on the water.\\n1-3. Hold the sides carefully, and get someone to draw around the shape on the bottom sheet of plywood.Cut out the bottom of the canoe, and fasten it to the sides with the cable ties.\\nPlop the \\\"tails\\\" of the cable ties on the outside of the boat.\\n1-4. Use polyester resin and 2 inch (50.8mm) wide glass fibre tape to seal the seams.\\nWhen the resin has dried, turn the boat over and cut off all the cable ties. Use an electric planer to tidy up the outside before using the resin and tape on the outside seams. A small deck can be added at each end, or simply a \\\"stick\\\" across between the gunwales to keep the sides apart.\\n1-5. Put edging strips along the top (gunwale) of the canoe.\\n\\n1-6. Coat the whole boat with exterior varnish.\\n\\n1-7. Work fast.\\nYou can complete the whole job in two to three weekends.\\n1-8. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nWhen cutting the 2 pieces of plywood (in step 1) you may add a slope to them if you wish.\\nWarnings\\nInspect the craft for proper operation before allowing inexperienced persons to use it.\\nAlways insist every passenger wears a buoyancy aid (Life Jacket/ Life Vest) when using the canoe.\\nMake sure children never canoe alone.\\nUse vinyl gloves when handling resin.\\nAlways use polyester resin in well ventilated areas.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You can build your son or daughter a plywood canoe in a few days. The simplest canoes are made of just 3 pieces of plywood: the two sides, and the base. More complex shapes can be created, but these instructions are for a simple canoe.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut out two strips of plywood 10 inches (25.4cm) wide by 8 feet (2.4 m) (243.8cm) long.\", \"描述\": \"Put a slight slope onto each end, if you like.Put the two strips on top of one another, and drill a series of 4 holes through both, at each end. Use small cable ties to fasten them together.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get your child to sit on the remaining sheet of plywood, and pull open the two strips of plywood, lifting them over the child's head and onto the plywood (or you could just make a decision for your child, the wider the better).\", \"描述\": \"The child can then decide what shape the canoe should be, by pushing the sides out. The wider the canoe, the more stable it will be on the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hold the sides carefully, and get someone to draw around the shape on the bottom sheet of plywood.Cut out the bottom of the canoe, and fasten it to the sides with the cable ties.\", \"描述\": \"Plop the \\\"tails\\\" of the cable ties on the outside of the boat.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use polyester resin and 2 inch (50.8mm) wide glass fibre tape to seal the seams.\", \"描述\": \"When the resin has dried, turn the boat over and cut off all the cable ties. Use an electric planer to tidy up the outside before using the resin and tape on the outside seams. A small deck can be added at each end, or simply a \\\"stick\\\" across between the gunwales to keep the sides apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Put edging strips along the top (gunwale) of the canoe.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Coat the whole boat with exterior varnish.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Work fast.\", \"描述\": \"You can complete the whole job in two to three weekends.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"When cutting the 2 pieces of plywood (in step 1) you may add a slope to them if you wish.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Inspect the craft for proper operation before allowing inexperienced persons to use it.\\n\", \"Always insist every passenger wears a buoyancy aid (Life Jacket/ Life Vest) when using the canoe.\\n\", \"Make sure children never canoe alone.\\n\", \"Use vinyl gloves when handling resin.\\n\", \"Always use polyester resin in well ventilated areas.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,470 |
How to Build a Pokémon Deck
|
1. Steps
1-1. Think of the kind of deck you want.
Do you like to play Water and Fire Pokémon, or Psychic and Fighting? Most people only have two different types of Pokémon in their deck. Sometimes certain decks may effectively use more than two, and sometimes decks use only one.
Try to make your types complement each other if possible — for example, Water and Electricity are good companions, as are Fire and Grass or Steel and Fairy.
Take into account the weaknesses of your types, too. If your Psychic-types have weakness to dark, play Fighting types (because most Dark Pokémon have Fighting weakness) to counter Dark-type Pokémon same as most fire have weakness to water so you should use leaf Pokémon to support the fire types.
Remember that you can use Pokémon with colorless attack cost in any kind of deck to bulk it up and fill in gaps. They are versatile and often have many helpful effects. Be aware, though, that no Pokémon has weaknesses to colorless type Pokémon.
1-2. Have a strategy in mind about how to win or get your opponent to lose.
In the Pokémon TCG, you can win in one of three ways: Collect your opponent's six prize cards, make your opponent run out of Pokémon on the field, or make your opponent run out of cards to draw at the beginning of his/her turn. Ask yourself:
Which condition will your deck focus on to win the game? How will it best achieve that?
What are the ways that your opponent might counter your strategy? Which cards can you use to minimize your weaknesses and maximize your strengths?
1-3. Remember to keep good balance as you choose.
Many decks stick with roughly 20 Pokémon, 25 trainers, and around 15 energies for a good mix, although it often depends on the type of deck you're playing. You may want to put in more energies than this, because shuffles can yield uneven hands with Pokémon to Energy ratios.
For example, a Blastoise/Keldeo-EX Deck from the 2012 City Championships sported 14 Pokémon, 32 trainers, and 14 energy. It all depends on what you're trying to do.
1-4. Think about the game as a three-role play.
First of all, you need to run multiple copies of your main attacker, and you'll need more of the Basic Pokémon than of the Stage 2, fully evolved ones, to be sure that you have an Active Pokémon and plenty for your bench.
Basic Pokémon can be knocked out quickly, so be sure you have some stage 1 or 2 cards up your sleeve. Evolve quickly to give your game some substance after the initial wave of weaker Pokémon.
Add "Back-up" - multiples of the evolution chain - so that you will still be able to get your stage 1 & 2 Pokémon out. If you just do 1 of each then when the pre-evolution is knocked out you won't be able to play your strongest Pokémon cards.
Plan from start to finish. Most decks have a 'start' card like Cleffa or Pichu. cards like these can help you set-up. Have one or two really big 1-hit K.O.ers you can draw for late in play.
1-5. Balance your cards.
It's good to use cards that help each other. It needs to be a good deck! Strategy is important!
Look for synergies in cards. For example, Hydreigon and Darkrai-EX are a great at moving around Pokémon and energies freely. Look for other great combination to use for your advantage.
1-6. Choose trainers that best support your Pokémon.
You will need about 5-8 trainers that help you draw cards; if you can't get the cards you need, you can't win.
Remember that you can put up to 4 of any given card in your deck. If your deck relies heavily on a card, you should boost your chances of drawing it by putting several copies of the card in your deck.
You should have around 5 or so cards to support and boost up your Pokémon. Any remaining space can be used to combat against frequently used cards or weaknesses, or to refresh your hand/bench.
1-7. Test your deck by drawing as if you were playing against an opponent.
Remember, to begin play, you must draw at least one basic Pokémon, so be sure you have plenty of Basics to insure that you get a good opening draw. While you are testing, see if any adjustments to the Energy count can be made, as it can be tricky to estimate how many you will need in any given deck.
1-8. Include plenty of trainer and supporter cards.
The best decks tend to have more trainer/supporter cards than any other kind of card. Focus on trainers/supporters that help you draw the cards you will need. Also look for trainers/supporters that jive with your deck's strategy.
1-9. Don't stock too many evolutions.
Evolution takes precious time in battle. You should use evolution cards if they are vital to your strategy and if you have trainers to help you evolve quickly. The longer it takes to evolve your Pokémon, the more time your opponent has to attack and set up. Example: Charizard GX has an attack with a staggering 300 damage. However, it is quite a bad card. You have to evolve it twice and attach five energies before Charizard GX can use his main attack (then discards 3 attached energy).
Tips
Keep cards you don't need, you might think it's useless, but others might think it's a treasure for their deck.
Remember to keep your cards safe and in good condition, and keep your good cards in cases.
As you gain experience in the game, consider removing some of the Pokémon that aren't related to your main attacker, and replacing them with Trainers that allow you to search your deck for evolutions, or skip an evolution stage.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:54",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Think of the kind of deck you want.\\nDo you like to play Water and Fire Pokémon, or Psychic and Fighting? Most people only have two different types of Pokémon in their deck. Sometimes certain decks may effectively use more than two, and sometimes decks use only one.\\nTry to make your types complement each other if possible — for example, Water and Electricity are good companions, as are Fire and Grass or Steel and Fairy.\\nTake into account the weaknesses of your types, too. If your Psychic-types have weakness to dark, play Fighting types (because most Dark Pokémon have Fighting weakness) to counter Dark-type Pokémon same as most fire have weakness to water so you should use leaf Pokémon to support the fire types.\\nRemember that you can use Pokémon with colorless attack cost in any kind of deck to bulk it up and fill in gaps. They are versatile and often have many helpful effects. Be aware, though, that no Pokémon has weaknesses to colorless type Pokémon.\\n1-2. Have a strategy in mind about how to win or get your opponent to lose.\\nIn the Pokémon TCG, you can win in one of three ways: Collect your opponent's six prize cards, make your opponent run out of Pokémon on the field, or make your opponent run out of cards to draw at the beginning of his/her turn. Ask yourself:\\nWhich condition will your deck focus on to win the game? How will it best achieve that?\\nWhat are the ways that your opponent might counter your strategy? Which cards can you use to minimize your weaknesses and maximize your strengths?\\n1-3. Remember to keep good balance as you choose.\\nMany decks stick with roughly 20 Pokémon, 25 trainers, and around 15 energies for a good mix, although it often depends on the type of deck you're playing. You may want to put in more energies than this, because shuffles can yield uneven hands with Pokémon to Energy ratios.\\nFor example, a Blastoise/Keldeo-EX Deck from the 2012 City Championships sported 14 Pokémon, 32 trainers, and 14 energy. It all depends on what you're trying to do.\\n1-4. Think about the game as a three-role play.\\nFirst of all, you need to run multiple copies of your main attacker, and you'll need more of the Basic Pokémon than of the Stage 2, fully evolved ones, to be sure that you have an Active Pokémon and plenty for your bench.\\nBasic Pokémon can be knocked out quickly, so be sure you have some stage 1 or 2 cards up your sleeve. Evolve quickly to give your game some substance after the initial wave of weaker Pokémon.\\nAdd \\\"Back-up\\\" - multiples of the evolution chain - so that you will still be able to get your stage 1 & 2 Pokémon out. If you just do 1 of each then when the pre-evolution is knocked out you won't be able to play your strongest Pokémon cards.\\nPlan from start to finish. Most decks have a 'start' card like Cleffa or Pichu. cards like these can help you set-up. Have one or two really big 1-hit K.O.ers you can draw for late in play.\\n1-5. Balance your cards.\\nIt's good to use cards that help each other. It needs to be a good deck! Strategy is important!\\nLook for synergies in cards. For example, Hydreigon and Darkrai-EX are a great at moving around Pokémon and energies freely. Look for other great combination to use for your advantage.\\n1-6. Choose trainers that best support your Pokémon.\\nYou will need about 5-8 trainers that help you draw cards; if you can't get the cards you need, you can't win.\\nRemember that you can put up to 4 of any given card in your deck. If your deck relies heavily on a card, you should boost your chances of drawing it by putting several copies of the card in your deck.\\nYou should have around 5 or so cards to support and boost up your Pokémon. Any remaining space can be used to combat against frequently used cards or weaknesses, or to refresh your hand/bench.\\n1-7. Test your deck by drawing as if you were playing against an opponent.\\nRemember, to begin play, you must draw at least one basic Pokémon, so be sure you have plenty of Basics to insure that you get a good opening draw. While you are testing, see if any adjustments to the Energy count can be made, as it can be tricky to estimate how many you will need in any given deck.\\n1-8. Include plenty of trainer and supporter cards.\\nThe best decks tend to have more trainer/supporter cards than any other kind of card. Focus on trainers/supporters that help you draw the cards you will need. Also look for trainers/supporters that jive with your deck's strategy.\\n1-9. Don't stock too many evolutions.\\nEvolution takes precious time in battle. You should use evolution cards if they are vital to your strategy and if you have trainers to help you evolve quickly. The longer it takes to evolve your Pokémon, the more time your opponent has to attack and set up. Example: Charizard GX has an attack with a staggering 300 damage. However, it is quite a bad card. You have to evolve it twice and attach five energies before Charizard GX can use his main attack (then discards 3 attached energy).\\nTips\\nKeep cards you don't need, you might think it's useless, but others might think it's a treasure for their deck.\\nRemember to keep your cards safe and in good condition, and keep your good cards in cases.\\nAs you gain experience in the game, consider removing some of the Pokémon that aren't related to your main attacker, and replacing them with Trainers that allow you to search your deck for evolutions, or skip an evolution stage.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Playing Pokémon is fun and challenging, and the cards are made so that different sets play together. There's no need to be locked into \\\"pre-constructed\\\" decks, the ones made by the manufacturer - you can make your own, choosing your favorites from any set you wish. This tutorial will help you build your own deck so you can begin playing at tournaments and a local Pokémon league!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Think of the kind of deck you want.\", \"描述\": \"Do you like to play Water and Fire Pokémon, or Psychic and Fighting? Most people only have two different types of Pokémon in their deck. Sometimes certain decks may effectively use more than two, and sometimes decks use only one.\\nTry to make your types complement each other if possible — for example, Water and Electricity are good companions, as are Fire and Grass or Steel and Fairy.\\nTake into account the weaknesses of your types, too. If your Psychic-types have weakness to dark, play Fighting types (because most Dark Pokémon have Fighting weakness) to counter Dark-type Pokémon same as most fire have weakness to water so you should use leaf Pokémon to support the fire types.\\nRemember that you can use Pokémon with colorless attack cost in any kind of deck to bulk it up and fill in gaps. They are versatile and often have many helpful effects. Be aware, though, that no Pokémon has weaknesses to colorless type Pokémon.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Have a strategy in mind about how to win or get your opponent to lose.\", \"描述\": \"In the Pokémon TCG, you can win in one of three ways: Collect your opponent's six prize cards, make your opponent run out of Pokémon on the field, or make your opponent run out of cards to draw at the beginning of his/her turn. Ask yourself:\\nWhich condition will your deck focus on to win the game? How will it best achieve that?\\nWhat are the ways that your opponent might counter your strategy? Which cards can you use to minimize your weaknesses and maximize your strengths?\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remember to keep good balance as you choose.\", \"描述\": \"Many decks stick with roughly 20 Pokémon, 25 trainers, and around 15 energies for a good mix, although it often depends on the type of deck you're playing. You may want to put in more energies than this, because shuffles can yield uneven hands with Pokémon to Energy ratios.\\nFor example, a Blastoise/Keldeo-EX Deck from the 2012 City Championships sported 14 Pokémon, 32 trainers, and 14 energy. It all depends on what you're trying to do.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Think about the game as a three-role play.\", \"描述\": \"First of all, you need to run multiple copies of your main attacker, and you'll need more of the Basic Pokémon than of the Stage 2, fully evolved ones, to be sure that you have an Active Pokémon and plenty for your bench.\\nBasic Pokémon can be knocked out quickly, so be sure you have some stage 1 or 2 cards up your sleeve. Evolve quickly to give your game some substance after the initial wave of weaker Pokémon.\\nAdd \\\"Back-up\\\" - multiples of the evolution chain - so that you will still be able to get your stage 1 & 2 Pokémon out. If you just do 1 of each then when the pre-evolution is knocked out you won't be able to play your strongest Pokémon cards.\\nPlan from start to finish. Most decks have a 'start' card like Cleffa or Pichu. cards like these can help you set-up. Have one or two really big 1-hit K.O.ers you can draw for late in play.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Balance your cards.\", \"描述\": \"It's good to use cards that help each other. It needs to be a good deck! Strategy is important!\\nLook for synergies in cards. For example, Hydreigon and Darkrai-EX are a great at moving around Pokémon and energies freely. Look for other great combination to use for your advantage.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Choose trainers that best support your Pokémon.\", \"描述\": \"You will need about 5-8 trainers that help you draw cards; if you can't get the cards you need, you can't win.\\nRemember that you can put up to 4 of any given card in your deck. If your deck relies heavily on a card, you should boost your chances of drawing it by putting several copies of the card in your deck.\\nYou should have around 5 or so cards to support and boost up your Pokémon. Any remaining space can be used to combat against frequently used cards or weaknesses, or to refresh your hand/bench.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Test your deck by drawing as if you were playing against an opponent.\", \"描述\": \"Remember, to begin play, you must draw at least one basic Pokémon, so be sure you have plenty of Basics to insure that you get a good opening draw. While you are testing, see if any adjustments to the Energy count can be made, as it can be tricky to estimate how many you will need in any given deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Include plenty of trainer and supporter cards.\", \"描述\": \"The best decks tend to have more trainer/supporter cards than any other kind of card. Focus on trainers/supporters that help you draw the cards you will need. Also look for trainers/supporters that jive with your deck's strategy.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Don't stock too many evolutions.\", \"描述\": \"Evolution takes precious time in battle. You should use evolution cards if they are vital to your strategy and if you have trainers to help you evolve quickly. The longer it takes to evolve your Pokémon, the more time your opponent has to attack and set up. Example: Charizard GX has an attack with a staggering 300 damage. However, it is quite a bad card. You have to evolve it twice and attach five energies before Charizard GX can use his main attack (then discards 3 attached energy).\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Keep cards you don't need, you might think it's useless, but others might think it's a treasure for their deck.\\n\", \"Remember to keep your cards safe and in good condition, and keep your good cards in cases.\\n\", \"As you gain experience in the game, consider removing some of the Pokémon that aren't related to your main attacker, and replacing them with Trainers that allow you to search your deck for evolutions, or skip an evolution stage.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,471 |
How to Build a Pole Barn
|
1. Getting the Right Supplies
1-1. Obtain a building permit.
You will need to check with your local municipal and\or county building and\or planning and zoning to get a building permit before you do anything. Call or visit their offices to find out what you are required to do to get a building permit, and then go through the process and obtain your permit before you build anything.
1-2. Get the necessary wood.
In order to build a pole barn, you will need to start with the right wood. The name “pole barn” can be slightly misleading, as you have the option of not only using poles but also square posts as well. You also are not limited to the construction of a barn, but any outdoor structure you would like including sheds, workshops, and garages.
You can use regular square posts, round poles, or old utility poles to build your structure. If you would like, you have the option of using logs you've felled or found on your own. Whatever wood you use, make sure that it is pressure-treated and rot resistant so that the integrity of your structure is not placed in jeopardy.
You will need 2x4s and 2x6s to frame the structure and add the roof trusses and lumber for the roof framing.
Use plywood to create the walls. You have the option of adding wood siding on the outside of the plywood to give added appeal to the appearance.
1-3. Choose your roof.
Most pole barn roofs are made from metal roofing, because they are inexpensive, easy to install, and last a long time. A metal roof is also much better than shingles or rolled roofing if the structure is large, especially in areas where it snows. However if you don't find metal roofing aesthetically pleasing, you have the option of installing shingles.
Make sure you have rust resistant roof metal for the roofing. You will also need a ridge cap to cover the center of the roof.
1-4. Find the remaining supplies.
You will need concrete to place around the poles in the ground, as well as gravel to create a level ground-layer and provide drainage. Use a portable mixer if you are placing many poles. You will also need galvanized screws, screw-in and straight roofing nails, and storm clips to keep your nails anchored. You can use bolted plates to attach the poles together instead of cutting notches in them as well.
1-5. Get the right tools.
Part of the attraction of building a pole barn is the simplicity involved in putting it together. You don't need a lot of tools, but have the option of buying/renting some bigger machines to aid in the building process.
You will need a tool to use to dig the holes for the poles. You can choose between using a post-hole digger or a tractor-powered auger. The latter is obviously less time consuming, although it is much more expensive to rent. Another option is to check for a truck mounted hole drilling service in your area.
You will need a laser-level and carpenter's level, an electric drill with the attachment for roofing screws, a hammer, a miter or circular saw, and a hand saw.
You have the option of renting a backhoe for this project, although it is not required. You can also use a large tamper to help level the post-holes for the poles.
2. Preparing Your Area
2-1. Measure the space.
Before you start building, it is imperative that you get an accurate measurement of your space. This will help you to buy an accurate amount of supplies and reduce the stress in building.
Walk around your space to decide how wide/long you want the barn to be. Once you've gotten a general space marked off, take exact measurements and keep track of them on a notepad.
Decide how high you want your structure to be. If you plan on using it as a garage or a storage shed, a minimum of 8 feet (2.4 m) is required. You can build it as tall as you would like though; just remember that you will have to work on the roof from the tops of the poles once they are in the ground.
Make sure that the area you choose has good drainage to avoid flooding in the rainy season.
2-2. Determine if there will be water and electricity going to the building.
If so, then you will need to hire someone to set these up. You will also need to call 811, the national Digline to have utility companies come out and check for pipes and wires underground.
2-3. Remove any obstacles in the area.
Pull out any shrubs or trees in the space where you plan on placing your structure, in addition to a 5 foot (1.5 m) wide space around it. If you have grass down, use a sod-cutter to remove it and cut it away in pieces. It can be replanted in another area of your yard if you desire, or be used to start a compost pile.
2-4. Level the ground.
Make sure the area you are working with is level. It is easiest to use a tractor to do this, by moving soil from one area to another. You can do this manually though, especially when the area you are working on is already pretty level.
Check to see if any base rock is needed to build up the floor of the barn. If so, then add 4 to 6 inches of decomposed granite or a similar type of smaller, easily compacted gravel material for a dirt floor and drainage.
2-5. Create a string-line.
You do this to mark the outline of the building you plan on making. This will make laying out the post-holes much easier, and help to keep the structure in perspective during the beginning stages. Put a small stake in each of the four corners of your building, and then wrap a long piece of string or twine between each stake.
3. Building Your Structure
3-1. Dig the holes.
For this, you can use your tractor-powered auger or your post-hole digger. Depending on how high you want to build your structure, you will need to make the holes at least 3–5 feet (0.9–1.5 m) deep. Many experienced builders say the pole needs to have 1/3 of its length in the ground, especially for an open-sided pole barn.
You don't have to build a foundation for a pole barn, but it is vital that your posts are stable so that even extreme weather conditions and accidents won't move them. Be sure to consider the primary wind direction and build accordingly.
Measure your poles or square posts to see how wide you need to dig the holes. Make sure to add a few inches of width to the hole so that the posts are guaranteed to fit.
Keep your poles no more than eight feet apart. You need your structure to be strong by keeping these foundation poles close enough together that they aren't each forced to subjected to too great of a load. However, you can also research larger pole barn plans, which may require placing the poles further apart than eight feet.
3-2. Mix your concrete.
You will need enough to add 12–24 inches (30.5–61.0 cm) in the bottom of each hole depending on the size of your poles. Tamp the inside of each hold to make the bottoms of each as flat and sturdy as possible. Drop each pole inside the holes into the concrete to add stability. Make sure that they are completely vertical before leaving them to set.
Make sure that you have staking and bracing material for two sides of the poles to keep them in place. It is important to prevent them from moving.
They will need to be left for 2-3 days to give time for the concrete to set completely. This way you don't run the risk of accidentally knocking the poles over before they have been stabilized.
Make sure the corners are exactly square—at 90 degrees—and the spacing between the poles is exact, so that you won't have problems completing your pole structure later.
3-3. Even-out the height of the poles.
Even if your poles were all exactly the same height when you started out, because the holes are not all the same size your poles are likely uneven now. Use a laser-level to mark off the tops at the same height.
Use scaffolding or a sturdy ladder to climb to the top of each of the poles and remove the excess height. You can do this right before you install the roof support beams.
If you would prefer not to climb the poles afterwards to measure them, you have the option of inserting each pole in the hole before concrete, measure the distance on the base, removing them, and then cutting them to size. This requires a lot of labor hauling the poles in and out of your post-holes though.
3-4. Add the roof-support beams.
These are the first and most difficult horizontal boards to place. You can choose to cut notches to fit the boards in each of the poles or place them across the top using metal plates. Use your level to make sure the boards are parallel to the ground, and secure them with screws or lag bolts to make sure they are stable.
These are the boards that connect between each of the poles, making a giant rectangular shape.
3-5. Build the trusses.
The trusses are the triangle-shaped roof beams that will be placed width-wise across the roof-support beams. These will have a board that runs parallel to the ground, as well as two additional boards that meat in the center at an angle. Measure the base-board to fit across the roof-support beams, and then choose the angle at which you want the roof to slope.
Miter the edges of the upwards-angled boards so that they meet flat together at the joints.
When they are put together, lift them up (with the help of others) onto the roof beams. Use metal plates to secure them to the base, lining them up over the poles.
Add a beam down the center for added support.
If you are building a larger barn, then check with a local truss company for costs of building trusses, delivery, and crane service for setting them.
3-6. Add additional boards for support.
You will need to nail boards across the roof and between the poles for the siding to be attached to. Be sure to use a level to make sure they run perpendicular to the boards they are nailed to.
The number you use will vary depending on the size of your structure but at least one additional board should be placed on each section.
If you plan on adding walls, nail 2x4s along the perimeter of the structure at the base. This will give the siding something to attach to on the bottom.
Consider using one size bigger board that has been pressure treated and that is at least 6 inches off the ground to protect from rotting.
Add boards between the beams to act as studs for a door or window. Create a frame for a door by nailing together boards in the shape and size you want, and cutting out any excess pieces.
If you are going to build any stalls, feed or tack rooms, or feeding mangers with in ground posts, then use pressure treated boards for framing that can come into contact with ground.
3-7. Add the siding.
Although you can choose to leave the sides of your barn open, adding walls is easy. Take your plywood and cut to size. Nail it to the support boards along the outside edges of the building. To take it one step further, you can add wood siding on the outside to make the building look nicer.
3-8. Install the roof.
If you chose to use a metal roof, then your pieces should be cut to fit. Install them by tapping the screws in place over the struts, and then use the drill (with roofing attachment) to finish inserting the screws. If you use shingles, nail down plywood over the entirety of the roof, and then layer the shingles and attach them with 3-4 nails apiece.
You usually need to put down a felt or tar-paper underlayment before the shingles.
3-9. Add doors or windows.
If you added extra support and framing for a door or window, you can add it to the barn at this point. You can also choose to leave it as an open-air door or window, which is common for pole barns.
Tips
If you plan on housing animals in your barn, consider adding insulation to the inside to keep warmth inside during cold nights.
Use a blueprint, rather than your own plan - this can help save you time and money.
Get as many people to help you as possible to speed up the process and make it safer.
Warnings
Make sure you observe all health and safety regulations, as well as the limits of your permit.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:54",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting the Right Supplies\\n1-1. Obtain a building permit.\\nYou will need to check with your local municipal and\\\\or county building and\\\\or planning and zoning to get a building permit before you do anything. Call or visit their offices to find out what you are required to do to get a building permit, and then go through the process and obtain your permit before you build anything.\\n1-2. Get the necessary wood.\\nIn order to build a pole barn, you will need to start with the right wood. The name “pole barn” can be slightly misleading, as you have the option of not only using poles but also square posts as well. You also are not limited to the construction of a barn, but any outdoor structure you would like including sheds, workshops, and garages.\\nYou can use regular square posts, round poles, or old utility poles to build your structure. If you would like, you have the option of using logs you've felled or found on your own. Whatever wood you use, make sure that it is pressure-treated and rot resistant so that the integrity of your structure is not placed in jeopardy.\\nYou will need 2x4s and 2x6s to frame the structure and add the roof trusses and lumber for the roof framing.\\nUse plywood to create the walls. You have the option of adding wood siding on the outside of the plywood to give added appeal to the appearance.\\n1-3. Choose your roof.\\nMost pole barn roofs are made from metal roofing, because they are inexpensive, easy to install, and last a long time. A metal roof is also much better than shingles or rolled roofing if the structure is large, especially in areas where it snows. However if you don't find metal roofing aesthetically pleasing, you have the option of installing shingles.\\nMake sure you have rust resistant roof metal for the roofing. You will also need a ridge cap to cover the center of the roof.\\n1-4. Find the remaining supplies.\\nYou will need concrete to place around the poles in the ground, as well as gravel to create a level ground-layer and provide drainage. Use a portable mixer if you are placing many poles. You will also need galvanized screws, screw-in and straight roofing nails, and storm clips to keep your nails anchored. You can use bolted plates to attach the poles together instead of cutting notches in them as well.\\n1-5. Get the right tools.\\nPart of the attraction of building a pole barn is the simplicity involved in putting it together. You don't need a lot of tools, but have the option of buying/renting some bigger machines to aid in the building process.\\nYou will need a tool to use to dig the holes for the poles. You can choose between using a post-hole digger or a tractor-powered auger. The latter is obviously less time consuming, although it is much more expensive to rent. Another option is to check for a truck mounted hole drilling service in your area.\\nYou will need a laser-level and carpenter's level, an electric drill with the attachment for roofing screws, a hammer, a miter or circular saw, and a hand saw.\\nYou have the option of renting a backhoe for this project, although it is not required. You can also use a large tamper to help level the post-holes for the poles.\\n2. Preparing Your Area\\n2-1. Measure the space.\\nBefore you start building, it is imperative that you get an accurate measurement of your space. This will help you to buy an accurate amount of supplies and reduce the stress in building.\\nWalk around your space to decide how wide/long you want the barn to be. Once you've gotten a general space marked off, take exact measurements and keep track of them on a notepad.\\nDecide how high you want your structure to be. If you plan on using it as a garage or a storage shed, a minimum of 8 feet (2.4 m) is required. You can build it as tall as you would like though; just remember that you will have to work on the roof from the tops of the poles once they are in the ground.\\nMake sure that the area you choose has good drainage to avoid flooding in the rainy season.\\n2-2. Determine if there will be water and electricity going to the building.\\nIf so, then you will need to hire someone to set these up. You will also need to call 811, the national Digline to have utility companies come out and check for pipes and wires underground.\\n2-3. Remove any obstacles in the area.\\nPull out any shrubs or trees in the space where you plan on placing your structure, in addition to a 5 foot (1.5 m) wide space around it. If you have grass down, use a sod-cutter to remove it and cut it away in pieces. It can be replanted in another area of your yard if you desire, or be used to start a compost pile.\\n2-4. Level the ground.\\nMake sure the area you are working with is level. It is easiest to use a tractor to do this, by moving soil from one area to another. You can do this manually though, especially when the area you are working on is already pretty level.\\nCheck to see if any base rock is needed to build up the floor of the barn. If so, then add 4 to 6 inches of decomposed granite or a similar type of smaller, easily compacted gravel material for a dirt floor and drainage.\\n2-5. Create a string-line.\\nYou do this to mark the outline of the building you plan on making. This will make laying out the post-holes much easier, and help to keep the structure in perspective during the beginning stages. Put a small stake in each of the four corners of your building, and then wrap a long piece of string or twine between each stake.\\n3. Building Your Structure\\n3-1. Dig the holes.\\nFor this, you can use your tractor-powered auger or your post-hole digger. Depending on how high you want to build your structure, you will need to make the holes at least 3–5 feet (0.9–1.5 m) deep. Many experienced builders say the pole needs to have 1/3 of its length in the ground, especially for an open-sided pole barn.\\nYou don't have to build a foundation for a pole barn, but it is vital that your posts are stable so that even extreme weather conditions and accidents won't move them. Be sure to consider the primary wind direction and build accordingly.\\nMeasure your poles or square posts to see how wide you need to dig the holes. Make sure to add a few inches of width to the hole so that the posts are guaranteed to fit.\\nKeep your poles no more than eight feet apart. You need your structure to be strong by keeping these foundation poles close enough together that they aren't each forced to subjected to too great of a load. However, you can also research larger pole barn plans, which may require placing the poles further apart than eight feet.\\n3-2. Mix your concrete.\\nYou will need enough to add 12–24 inches (30.5–61.0 cm) in the bottom of each hole depending on the size of your poles. Tamp the inside of each hold to make the bottoms of each as flat and sturdy as possible. Drop each pole inside the holes into the concrete to add stability. Make sure that they are completely vertical before leaving them to set.\\nMake sure that you have staking and bracing material for two sides of the poles to keep them in place. It is important to prevent them from moving.\\nThey will need to be left for 2-3 days to give time for the concrete to set completely. This way you don't run the risk of accidentally knocking the poles over before they have been stabilized.\\nMake sure the corners are exactly square—at 90 degrees—and the spacing between the poles is exact, so that you won't have problems completing your pole structure later.\\n3-3. Even-out the height of the poles.\\nEven if your poles were all exactly the same height when you started out, because the holes are not all the same size your poles are likely uneven now. Use a laser-level to mark off the tops at the same height.\\nUse scaffolding or a sturdy ladder to climb to the top of each of the poles and remove the excess height. You can do this right before you install the roof support beams.\\nIf you would prefer not to climb the poles afterwards to measure them, you have the option of inserting each pole in the hole before concrete, measure the distance on the base, removing them, and then cutting them to size. This requires a lot of labor hauling the poles in and out of your post-holes though.\\n3-4. Add the roof-support beams.\\nThese are the first and most difficult horizontal boards to place. You can choose to cut notches to fit the boards in each of the poles or place them across the top using metal plates. Use your level to make sure the boards are parallel to the ground, and secure them with screws or lag bolts to make sure they are stable.\\nThese are the boards that connect between each of the poles, making a giant rectangular shape.\\n3-5. Build the trusses.\\nThe trusses are the triangle-shaped roof beams that will be placed width-wise across the roof-support beams. These will have a board that runs parallel to the ground, as well as two additional boards that meat in the center at an angle. Measure the base-board to fit across the roof-support beams, and then choose the angle at which you want the roof to slope.\\nMiter the edges of the upwards-angled boards so that they meet flat together at the joints.\\nWhen they are put together, lift them up (with the help of others) onto the roof beams. Use metal plates to secure them to the base, lining them up over the poles.\\nAdd a beam down the center for added support.\\nIf you are building a larger barn, then check with a local truss company for costs of building trusses, delivery, and crane service for setting them.\\n3-6. Add additional boards for support.\\nYou will need to nail boards across the roof and between the poles for the siding to be attached to. Be sure to use a level to make sure they run perpendicular to the boards they are nailed to.\\nThe number you use will vary depending on the size of your structure but at least one additional board should be placed on each section.\\nIf you plan on adding walls, nail 2x4s along the perimeter of the structure at the base. This will give the siding something to attach to on the bottom.\\nConsider using one size bigger board that has been pressure treated and that is at least 6 inches off the ground to protect from rotting.\\nAdd boards between the beams to act as studs for a door or window. Create a frame for a door by nailing together boards in the shape and size you want, and cutting out any excess pieces.\\nIf you are going to build any stalls, feed or tack rooms, or feeding mangers with in ground posts, then use pressure treated boards for framing that can come into contact with ground.\\n3-7. Add the siding.\\nAlthough you can choose to leave the sides of your barn open, adding walls is easy. Take your plywood and cut to size. Nail it to the support boards along the outside edges of the building. To take it one step further, you can add wood siding on the outside to make the building look nicer.\\n3-8. Install the roof.\\nIf you chose to use a metal roof, then your pieces should be cut to fit. Install them by tapping the screws in place over the struts, and then use the drill (with roofing attachment) to finish inserting the screws. If you use shingles, nail down plywood over the entirety of the roof, and then layer the shingles and attach them with 3-4 nails apiece.\\nYou usually need to put down a felt or tar-paper underlayment before the shingles.\\n3-9. Add doors or windows.\\nIf you added extra support and framing for a door or window, you can add it to the barn at this point. You can also choose to leave it as an open-air door or window, which is common for pole barns.\\nTips\\nIf you plan on housing animals in your barn, consider adding insulation to the inside to keep warmth inside during cold nights.\\nUse a blueprint, rather than your own plan - this can help save you time and money.\\nGet as many people to help you as possible to speed up the process and make it safer.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure you observe all health and safety regulations, as well as the limits of your permit.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The pole barn is the most simple of all shed designs. It is essentially where posts or poles are fixed into the ground, secured together at the top, which then support a roof. They are typically used on farms, but can be of any size, and are therefore great for backyards too. If you want to build a simple structure to be used for farm work or storage, try building your own pole barn.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting the Right Supplies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain a building permit.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to check with your local municipal and\\\\or county building and\\\\or planning and zoning to get a building permit before you do anything. Call or visit their offices to find out what you are required to do to get a building permit, and then go through the process and obtain your permit before you build anything.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get the necessary wood.\", \"描述\": \"In order to build a pole barn, you will need to start with the right wood. The name “pole barn” can be slightly misleading, as you have the option of not only using poles but also square posts as well. You also are not limited to the construction of a barn, but any outdoor structure you would like including sheds, workshops, and garages.\\nYou can use regular square posts, round poles, or old utility poles to build your structure. If you would like, you have the option of using logs you've felled or found on your own. Whatever wood you use, make sure that it is pressure-treated and rot resistant so that the integrity of your structure is not placed in jeopardy.\\nYou will need 2x4s and 2x6s to frame the structure and add the roof trusses and lumber for the roof framing.\\nUse plywood to create the walls. You have the option of adding wood siding on the outside of the plywood to give added appeal to the appearance.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose your roof.\", \"描述\": \"Most pole barn roofs are made from metal roofing, because they are inexpensive, easy to install, and last a long time. A metal roof is also much better than shingles or rolled roofing if the structure is large, especially in areas where it snows. However if you don't find metal roofing aesthetically pleasing, you have the option of installing shingles.\\nMake sure you have rust resistant roof metal for the roofing. You will also need a ridge cap to cover the center of the roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Find the remaining supplies.\", \"描述\": \"You will need concrete to place around the poles in the ground, as well as gravel to create a level ground-layer and provide drainage. Use a portable mixer if you are placing many poles. You will also need galvanized screws, screw-in and straight roofing nails, and storm clips to keep your nails anchored. You can use bolted plates to attach the poles together instead of cutting notches in them as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get the right tools.\", \"描述\": \"Part of the attraction of building a pole barn is the simplicity involved in putting it together. You don't need a lot of tools, but have the option of buying/renting some bigger machines to aid in the building process.\\nYou will need a tool to use to dig the holes for the poles. You can choose between using a post-hole digger or a tractor-powered auger. The latter is obviously less time consuming, although it is much more expensive to rent. Another option is to check for a truck mounted hole drilling service in your area.\\nYou will need a laser-level and carpenter's level, an electric drill with the attachment for roofing screws, a hammer, a miter or circular saw, and a hand saw.\\nYou have the option of renting a backhoe for this project, although it is not required. You can also use a large tamper to help level the post-holes for the poles.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Preparing Your Area\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the space.\", \"描述\": \"Before you start building, it is imperative that you get an accurate measurement of your space. This will help you to buy an accurate amount of supplies and reduce the stress in building.\\nWalk around your space to decide how wide/long you want the barn to be. Once you've gotten a general space marked off, take exact measurements and keep track of them on a notepad.\\nDecide how high you want your structure to be. If you plan on using it as a garage or a storage shed, a minimum of 8 feet (2.4 m) is required. You can build it as tall as you would like though; just remember that you will have to work on the roof from the tops of the poles once they are in the ground.\\nMake sure that the area you choose has good drainage to avoid flooding in the rainy season.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine if there will be water and electricity going to the building.\", \"描述\": \"If so, then you will need to hire someone to set these up. You will also need to call 811, the national Digline to have utility companies come out and check for pipes and wires underground.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove any obstacles in the area.\", \"描述\": \"Pull out any shrubs or trees in the space where you plan on placing your structure, in addition to a 5 foot (1.5 m) wide space around it. If you have grass down, use a sod-cutter to remove it and cut it away in pieces. It can be replanted in another area of your yard if you desire, or be used to start a compost pile.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Level the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the area you are working with is level. It is easiest to use a tractor to do this, by moving soil from one area to another. You can do this manually though, especially when the area you are working on is already pretty level.\\nCheck to see if any base rock is needed to build up the floor of the barn. If so, then add 4 to 6 inches of decomposed granite or a similar type of smaller, easily compacted gravel material for a dirt floor and drainage.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create a string-line.\", \"描述\": \"You do this to mark the outline of the building you plan on making. This will make laying out the post-holes much easier, and help to keep the structure in perspective during the beginning stages. Put a small stake in each of the four corners of your building, and then wrap a long piece of string or twine between each stake.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building Your Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig the holes.\", \"描述\": \"For this, you can use your tractor-powered auger or your post-hole digger. Depending on how high you want to build your structure, you will need to make the holes at least 3–5 feet (0.9–1.5 m) deep. Many experienced builders say the pole needs to have 1/3 of its length in the ground, especially for an open-sided pole barn.\\nYou don't have to build a foundation for a pole barn, but it is vital that your posts are stable so that even extreme weather conditions and accidents won't move them. Be sure to consider the primary wind direction and build accordingly.\\nMeasure your poles or square posts to see how wide you need to dig the holes. Make sure to add a few inches of width to the hole so that the posts are guaranteed to fit.\\nKeep your poles no more than eight feet apart. You need your structure to be strong by keeping these foundation poles close enough together that they aren't each forced to subjected to too great of a load. However, you can also research larger pole barn plans, which may require placing the poles further apart than eight feet.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mix your concrete.\", \"描述\": \"You will need enough to add 12–24 inches (30.5–61.0 cm) in the bottom of each hole depending on the size of your poles. Tamp the inside of each hold to make the bottoms of each as flat and sturdy as possible. Drop each pole inside the holes into the concrete to add stability. Make sure that they are completely vertical before leaving them to set.\\nMake sure that you have staking and bracing material for two sides of the poles to keep them in place. It is important to prevent them from moving.\\nThey will need to be left for 2-3 days to give time for the concrete to set completely. This way you don't run the risk of accidentally knocking the poles over before they have been stabilized.\\nMake sure the corners are exactly square—at 90 degrees—and the spacing between the poles is exact, so that you won't have problems completing your pole structure later.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Even-out the height of the poles.\", \"描述\": \"Even if your poles were all exactly the same height when you started out, because the holes are not all the same size your poles are likely uneven now. Use a laser-level to mark off the tops at the same height.\\nUse scaffolding or a sturdy ladder to climb to the top of each of the poles and remove the excess height. You can do this right before you install the roof support beams.\\nIf you would prefer not to climb the poles afterwards to measure them, you have the option of inserting each pole in the hole before concrete, measure the distance on the base, removing them, and then cutting them to size. This requires a lot of labor hauling the poles in and out of your post-holes though.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the roof-support beams.\", \"描述\": \"These are the first and most difficult horizontal boards to place. You can choose to cut notches to fit the boards in each of the poles or place them across the top using metal plates. Use your level to make sure the boards are parallel to the ground, and secure them with screws or lag bolts to make sure they are stable.\\nThese are the boards that connect between each of the poles, making a giant rectangular shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build the trusses.\", \"描述\": \"The trusses are the triangle-shaped roof beams that will be placed width-wise across the roof-support beams. These will have a board that runs parallel to the ground, as well as two additional boards that meat in the center at an angle. Measure the base-board to fit across the roof-support beams, and then choose the angle at which you want the roof to slope.\\nMiter the edges of the upwards-angled boards so that they meet flat together at the joints.\\nWhen they are put together, lift them up (with the help of others) onto the roof beams. Use metal plates to secure them to the base, lining them up over the poles.\\nAdd a beam down the center for added support.\\nIf you are building a larger barn, then check with a local truss company for costs of building trusses, delivery, and crane service for setting them.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add additional boards for support.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to nail boards across the roof and between the poles for the siding to be attached to. Be sure to use a level to make sure they run perpendicular to the boards they are nailed to.\\nThe number you use will vary depending on the size of your structure but at least one additional board should be placed on each section.\\nIf you plan on adding walls, nail 2x4s along the perimeter of the structure at the base. This will give the siding something to attach to on the bottom.\\nConsider using one size bigger board that has been pressure treated and that is at least 6 inches off the ground to protect from rotting.\\nAdd boards between the beams to act as studs for a door or window. Create a frame for a door by nailing together boards in the shape and size you want, and cutting out any excess pieces.\\nIf you are going to build any stalls, feed or tack rooms, or feeding mangers with in ground posts, then use pressure treated boards for framing that can come into contact with ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add the siding.\", \"描述\": \"Although you can choose to leave the sides of your barn open, adding walls is easy. Take your plywood and cut to size. Nail it to the support boards along the outside edges of the building. To take it one step further, you can add wood siding on the outside to make the building look nicer.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Install the roof.\", \"描述\": \"If you chose to use a metal roof, then your pieces should be cut to fit. Install them by tapping the screws in place over the struts, and then use the drill (with roofing attachment) to finish inserting the screws. If you use shingles, nail down plywood over the entirety of the roof, and then layer the shingles and attach them with 3-4 nails apiece.\\nYou usually need to put down a felt or tar-paper underlayment before the shingles.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Add doors or windows.\", \"描述\": \"If you added extra support and framing for a door or window, you can add it to the barn at this point. You can also choose to leave it as an open-air door or window, which is common for pole barns.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you plan on housing animals in your barn, consider adding insulation to the inside to keep warmth inside during cold nights.\\n\", \"Use a blueprint, rather than your own plan - this can help save you time and money.\\n\", \"Get as many people to help you as possible to speed up the process and make it safer.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure you observe all health and safety regulations, as well as the limits of your permit.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,472 |
How to Build a Pond Filter System
|
1. Drilling Holes in the Filter Container
1-1. Get a bucket or trash can with a sealable lid.
Having a sealable lid will help keep other debris from falling into your filter material and prevent the filter from overflowing if it starts to drain slowly.
5 gallons (19 L) buckets with sealable lids are available at most hardware and large retail stores and make for great filter housings.
You can also use similarly sized trash cans or Tupperware containers as long as they have a sealable lid.
1-2. Purchase a water pump if you don’t already have one.
If you have a water pump in your pond for circulation, that pump should suffice. Otherwise, purchase a good quality pump that’s rated for the size of your pond. Most pumps are rated in terms of how many gallons your pond can hold. If you are unsure, you can find pond calculators online to help you determine your pond’s size in gallons based on its measurements.
You don’t need to buy a new pump if you have one for circulation already.
You can use either a submersible pump or one that’s meant to remain out of the water with a line that goes into the pond.
1-3. Lay out where the pump and filter will be located in relation to the pond.
In order to determine how much hose you need to purchase, place the plastic container that will hold your filter and the water pump where you intend them to be once you’re finished. Then use a measuring tape to determine how much hose you’ll need to run one line from the pump to the filter, and another from the filter back into the pond.
It’s best to position your filter and pump in a shady location. If you can place them under some sort of shelter, that is optimal.
A submersible pump is meant to be placed in the water, whereas a non-submersible pump should be placed next to the filter with the inlet hose placed in the water.
Keep the filter and pump as close to the water as possible to reduce the amount of hosing the water needs to run through under the pump’s power.
1-4. Buy rubber hose to connect the filter to the water pump.
Measure the diameter of the outlet nozzle on your water pump, then take that measurement to your local hardware store. Purchase rubber hose of that inside diameter in enough length to run from where the pump will be placed to where you want to position the filter itself. Then purchase another length of hose for the return line.
Keep the measurement for the hose so know what size hole to cut in the lid.
Your pump may have come with the necessary hosing already.
1-5. Cut a hole in the lid of the container that’s just large enough for the hose.
Use a drill with a hole-saw bit of the same diameter as the hose to drill a hole through the lid for the hose. If you don’t have a drill and the lid is a thin enough material, puncture it with a knife. Place the lid on the bucket and press the knife down through the lid where you intend to run the hose. Once the knife punctures the plastic, use it to saw a hole in the lid of the approximate size and shape of the hose.
If you don’t have a drill, make sure to use a sturdy utility knife for cutting the plastic, rather than a thin kitchen knife.
A drill with a hole saw is the recommended way to make the hole.
1-6. Drill a hole in the side of the container for the water outlet.
Make the hole the same approximate size the top one, which should be a snug fit for your hose. The water will flow in from the top, pass through filter media, and then return to the pond via an outlet hose. Choose a spot on the side of the container about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the bottom and use the hole-saw bit on your drill to create an outlet hole.
Drill the hole near the base of the container, as far down it as you can go.
Remove any debris created by drilling from the inside of the container once you’re done.
1-7. Insert the hoses and seal them with a fish-friendly sealant.
Insert the end of one hose into the lid and apply a sealant meant for use with aquatic wildlife around the top and bottom of the hole to create a waterproof seal. Then do the same with a length of hose for the hole near the bottom of the container.
You can purchase fish-friendly sealant at larger pet stores or on specialized websites.
Read the instructions on the sealant you choose to know how long it needs to cure before you can move forward.
2. Assembling the Filter
2-1. Pour a layer of red lava rocks into the bottom of the container.
The lava rocks will serve as both a means of filtration and a way to hold your other filter media up away from water return nozzle at the bottom of the container. The layer of lava rocks should be just deep enough to cover the hole for the return hose.
You can purchase red lava rocks at most aquarium supply stores or large pet stores.
Fill the bottom of the container with lava rocks until the return hose is hidden beneath them.
2-2. Cut filter material to match the shape of the container.
Filter material often comes in rolls and is made out of layers of coarse and fine fabric. Unroll it and trace the general shape of the container onto the filter material. Cut the shape out and then repeat that process 3 more times until you have at least 4 layers of filter material to place in the container.
You can purchase the water filter material at aquarium supply stores or on specialized websites.
If you can’t find filter material, you can also use a mesh laundry bag filled with household sponges.
2-3. Place the filter material over the lava rocks.
Lower a layer of filter material into the container and position it flat on top of the red lava rocks. Then place each additional layer on top of the previous one so the water has to pass through multiple layers of it before reaching the lava rocks.
If you have trouble getting the filter material to stay on top of the rocks, you can add a layer of the metal screening you used at the end of the inlet hose to make it stiffer.
If you used a laundry bag and sponges instead, make sure the bag and sponges completely cover the lava rocks.
2-4. Seal the top of the container with the lid.
The lid will prevent any debris from falling into the filter while also preventing overflow if the filter drains slowly. Once the lid is on the filter, move it to where you intend to set it up.
Make sure to seal the lid once you put it on.
3. Installing the Filter
3-1. Attach a plastic screen to the end of the input hose on the pump.
The water pump you put into your pond has an input hose that draws the water in. Use the same fish-friendly sealant you used to seal the hoses to the container to glue a metal screen to the end of the input hose to stop it from sucking up large debris. Wrap the screen around the end of the hose and then use the sealant to glue it in place.
You can use any pliable screen material, including the screening commonly used for windows.
Purchase the screen at your local hardware store.
3-2. Connect the pump to the filter inlet.
Attach the hose running from the lid of the filter to the outlet on your water pump. Place a hose clamp on the hose before you connect it, then use a Phillips head screwdriver to tighten the clamp over the hose and outlet nozzle to ensure it’s secure. At this stage, the pump is not connected to power, so it won’t function yet.
Place both the pump and the filter at the pond’s edge once they’re connected.
3-3. Place the water pump in or near the pond and position the filter next to it.
If the pump is not designed to be submerged, position it in a covered spot near the water’s edge and just submerge the inlet hose. Place the filter nearby on the water’s edge. When you turn on the pump, water will flow through it and into the filter.
Submerge the screened end of the inlet hose in the water.
Read the package your pump came in. It will clearly specify if your pump is meant to be submerged in water.
3-4. Run the filter return hose back into the pond.
The lower hose on the filter will allow the filtered water to return back into the pond. Simply orient the filter so the hole points toward the pond and run the hose from the hole into the water.
This hose returns the clean water to the pond after it's been filtered.
Position this hose as far away from the pump’s inlet hose as you can.
3-5. Connect the pump to power and switch it on.
Plug the pump into a power source like an outdoor wall outlet. With the pump running, water will move into the top of the filter, pass through the filter material and lava rocks, and back out the return hose.
It may take a few minutes for the water to fill the container enough to begin pouring out the return hose.
If water completely fills the container and does not exit from the return hose, the outlet is blocked by the lava rocks. Disassemble the filter, clear the outlet, and try again.
3-6. Clean the filter media every month.
Open the lid of the filter and remove the filter material. Rinse it thoroughly and then remove the lava rocks. Use a hose to rinse them off completely and then put both filters back into the container.
If the pond is very dirty, clean the filter every two weeks instead of every month.
Replace the filter material if it becomes too dirty to allow water to pass through.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:54",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Drilling Holes in the Filter Container\\n1-1. Get a bucket or trash can with a sealable lid.\\nHaving a sealable lid will help keep other debris from falling into your filter material and prevent the filter from overflowing if it starts to drain slowly.\\n5 gallons (19 L) buckets with sealable lids are available at most hardware and large retail stores and make for great filter housings.\\nYou can also use similarly sized trash cans or Tupperware containers as long as they have a sealable lid.\\n1-2. Purchase a water pump if you don’t already have one.\\nIf you have a water pump in your pond for circulation, that pump should suffice. Otherwise, purchase a good quality pump that’s rated for the size of your pond. Most pumps are rated in terms of how many gallons your pond can hold. If you are unsure, you can find pond calculators online to help you determine your pond’s size in gallons based on its measurements.\\nYou don’t need to buy a new pump if you have one for circulation already.\\nYou can use either a submersible pump or one that’s meant to remain out of the water with a line that goes into the pond.\\n1-3. Lay out where the pump and filter will be located in relation to the pond.\\nIn order to determine how much hose you need to purchase, place the plastic container that will hold your filter and the water pump where you intend them to be once you’re finished. Then use a measuring tape to determine how much hose you’ll need to run one line from the pump to the filter, and another from the filter back into the pond.\\nIt’s best to position your filter and pump in a shady location. If you can place them under some sort of shelter, that is optimal.\\nA submersible pump is meant to be placed in the water, whereas a non-submersible pump should be placed next to the filter with the inlet hose placed in the water.\\nKeep the filter and pump as close to the water as possible to reduce the amount of hosing the water needs to run through under the pump’s power.\\n1-4. Buy rubber hose to connect the filter to the water pump.\\nMeasure the diameter of the outlet nozzle on your water pump, then take that measurement to your local hardware store. Purchase rubber hose of that inside diameter in enough length to run from where the pump will be placed to where you want to position the filter itself. Then purchase another length of hose for the return line.\\nKeep the measurement for the hose so know what size hole to cut in the lid.\\nYour pump may have come with the necessary hosing already.\\n1-5. Cut a hole in the lid of the container that’s just large enough for the hose.\\nUse a drill with a hole-saw bit of the same diameter as the hose to drill a hole through the lid for the hose. If you don’t have a drill and the lid is a thin enough material, puncture it with a knife. Place the lid on the bucket and press the knife down through the lid where you intend to run the hose. Once the knife punctures the plastic, use it to saw a hole in the lid of the approximate size and shape of the hose.\\nIf you don’t have a drill, make sure to use a sturdy utility knife for cutting the plastic, rather than a thin kitchen knife.\\nA drill with a hole saw is the recommended way to make the hole.\\n1-6. Drill a hole in the side of the container for the water outlet.\\nMake the hole the same approximate size the top one, which should be a snug fit for your hose. The water will flow in from the top, pass through filter media, and then return to the pond via an outlet hose. Choose a spot on the side of the container about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the bottom and use the hole-saw bit on your drill to create an outlet hole.\\nDrill the hole near the base of the container, as far down it as you can go.\\nRemove any debris created by drilling from the inside of the container once you’re done.\\n1-7. Insert the hoses and seal them with a fish-friendly sealant.\\nInsert the end of one hose into the lid and apply a sealant meant for use with aquatic wildlife around the top and bottom of the hole to create a waterproof seal. Then do the same with a length of hose for the hole near the bottom of the container.\\nYou can purchase fish-friendly sealant at larger pet stores or on specialized websites.\\nRead the instructions on the sealant you choose to know how long it needs to cure before you can move forward.\\n2. Assembling the Filter\\n2-1. Pour a layer of red lava rocks into the bottom of the container.\\nThe lava rocks will serve as both a means of filtration and a way to hold your other filter media up away from water return nozzle at the bottom of the container. The layer of lava rocks should be just deep enough to cover the hole for the return hose.\\nYou can purchase red lava rocks at most aquarium supply stores or large pet stores.\\nFill the bottom of the container with lava rocks until the return hose is hidden beneath them.\\n2-2. Cut filter material to match the shape of the container.\\nFilter material often comes in rolls and is made out of layers of coarse and fine fabric. Unroll it and trace the general shape of the container onto the filter material. Cut the shape out and then repeat that process 3 more times until you have at least 4 layers of filter material to place in the container.\\nYou can purchase the water filter material at aquarium supply stores or on specialized websites.\\nIf you can’t find filter material, you can also use a mesh laundry bag filled with household sponges.\\n2-3. Place the filter material over the lava rocks.\\nLower a layer of filter material into the container and position it flat on top of the red lava rocks. Then place each additional layer on top of the previous one so the water has to pass through multiple layers of it before reaching the lava rocks.\\nIf you have trouble getting the filter material to stay on top of the rocks, you can add a layer of the metal screening you used at the end of the inlet hose to make it stiffer.\\nIf you used a laundry bag and sponges instead, make sure the bag and sponges completely cover the lava rocks.\\n2-4. Seal the top of the container with the lid.\\nThe lid will prevent any debris from falling into the filter while also preventing overflow if the filter drains slowly. Once the lid is on the filter, move it to where you intend to set it up.\\nMake sure to seal the lid once you put it on.\\n3. Installing the Filter\\n3-1. Attach a plastic screen to the end of the input hose on the pump.\\nThe water pump you put into your pond has an input hose that draws the water in. Use the same fish-friendly sealant you used to seal the hoses to the container to glue a metal screen to the end of the input hose to stop it from sucking up large debris. Wrap the screen around the end of the hose and then use the sealant to glue it in place.\\nYou can use any pliable screen material, including the screening commonly used for windows.\\nPurchase the screen at your local hardware store.\\n3-2. Connect the pump to the filter inlet.\\nAttach the hose running from the lid of the filter to the outlet on your water pump. Place a hose clamp on the hose before you connect it, then use a Phillips head screwdriver to tighten the clamp over the hose and outlet nozzle to ensure it’s secure. At this stage, the pump is not connected to power, so it won’t function yet.\\nPlace both the pump and the filter at the pond’s edge once they’re connected.\\n3-3. Place the water pump in or near the pond and position the filter next to it.\\nIf the pump is not designed to be submerged, position it in a covered spot near the water’s edge and just submerge the inlet hose. Place the filter nearby on the water’s edge. When you turn on the pump, water will flow through it and into the filter.\\nSubmerge the screened end of the inlet hose in the water.\\nRead the package your pump came in. It will clearly specify if your pump is meant to be submerged in water.\\n3-4. Run the filter return hose back into the pond.\\nThe lower hose on the filter will allow the filtered water to return back into the pond. Simply orient the filter so the hole points toward the pond and run the hose from the hole into the water.\\nThis hose returns the clean water to the pond after it's been filtered.\\nPosition this hose as far away from the pump’s inlet hose as you can.\\n3-5. Connect the pump to power and switch it on.\\nPlug the pump into a power source like an outdoor wall outlet. With the pump running, water will move into the top of the filter, pass through the filter material and lava rocks, and back out the return hose.\\nIt may take a few minutes for the water to fill the container enough to begin pouring out the return hose.\\nIf water completely fills the container and does not exit from the return hose, the outlet is blocked by the lava rocks. Disassemble the filter, clear the outlet, and try again.\\n3-6. Clean the filter media every month.\\nOpen the lid of the filter and remove the filter material. Rinse it thoroughly and then remove the lava rocks. Use a hose to rinse them off completely and then put both filters back into the container.\\nIf the pond is very dirty, clean the filter every two weeks instead of every month.\\nReplace the filter material if it becomes too dirty to allow water to pass through.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"While there are commercial pond filter systems you can purchase, many people choose to build their own to save money. You can put together a surprisingly capable pond filtration system using commonly found household tools and a few components purchased from your local aquarium supply or pet store.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drilling Holes in the Filter Container\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a bucket or trash can with a sealable lid.\", \"描述\": \"Having a sealable lid will help keep other debris from falling into your filter material and prevent the filter from overflowing if it starts to drain slowly.\\n5 gallons (19 L) buckets with sealable lids are available at most hardware and large retail stores and make for great filter housings.\\nYou can also use similarly sized trash cans or Tupperware containers as long as they have a sealable lid.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase a water pump if you don’t already have one.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a water pump in your pond for circulation, that pump should suffice. Otherwise, purchase a good quality pump that’s rated for the size of your pond. Most pumps are rated in terms of how many gallons your pond can hold. If you are unsure, you can find pond calculators online to help you determine your pond’s size in gallons based on its measurements.\\nYou don’t need to buy a new pump if you have one for circulation already.\\nYou can use either a submersible pump or one that’s meant to remain out of the water with a line that goes into the pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay out where the pump and filter will be located in relation to the pond.\", \"描述\": \"In order to determine how much hose you need to purchase, place the plastic container that will hold your filter and the water pump where you intend them to be once you’re finished. Then use a measuring tape to determine how much hose you’ll need to run one line from the pump to the filter, and another from the filter back into the pond.\\nIt’s best to position your filter and pump in a shady location. If you can place them under some sort of shelter, that is optimal.\\nA submersible pump is meant to be placed in the water, whereas a non-submersible pump should be placed next to the filter with the inlet hose placed in the water.\\nKeep the filter and pump as close to the water as possible to reduce the amount of hosing the water needs to run through under the pump’s power.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Buy rubber hose to connect the filter to the water pump.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the diameter of the outlet nozzle on your water pump, then take that measurement to your local hardware store. Purchase rubber hose of that inside diameter in enough length to run from where the pump will be placed to where you want to position the filter itself. Then purchase another length of hose for the return line.\\nKeep the measurement for the hose so know what size hole to cut in the lid.\\nYour pump may have come with the necessary hosing already.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut a hole in the lid of the container that’s just large enough for the hose.\", \"描述\": \"Use a drill with a hole-saw bit of the same diameter as the hose to drill a hole through the lid for the hose. If you don’t have a drill and the lid is a thin enough material, puncture it with a knife. Place the lid on the bucket and press the knife down through the lid where you intend to run the hose. Once the knife punctures the plastic, use it to saw a hole in the lid of the approximate size and shape of the hose.\\nIf you don’t have a drill, make sure to use a sturdy utility knife for cutting the plastic, rather than a thin kitchen knife.\\nA drill with a hole saw is the recommended way to make the hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole in the side of the container for the water outlet.\", \"描述\": \"Make the hole the same approximate size the top one, which should be a snug fit for your hose. The water will flow in from the top, pass through filter media, and then return to the pond via an outlet hose. Choose a spot on the side of the container about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the bottom and use the hole-saw bit on your drill to create an outlet hole.\\nDrill the hole near the base of the container, as far down it as you can go.\\nRemove any debris created by drilling from the inside of the container once you’re done.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Insert the hoses and seal them with a fish-friendly sealant.\", \"描述\": \"Insert the end of one hose into the lid and apply a sealant meant for use with aquatic wildlife around the top and bottom of the hole to create a waterproof seal. Then do the same with a length of hose for the hole near the bottom of the container.\\nYou can purchase fish-friendly sealant at larger pet stores or on specialized websites.\\nRead the instructions on the sealant you choose to know how long it needs to cure before you can move forward.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Filter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pour a layer of red lava rocks into the bottom of the container.\", \"描述\": \"The lava rocks will serve as both a means of filtration and a way to hold your other filter media up away from water return nozzle at the bottom of the container. The layer of lava rocks should be just deep enough to cover the hole for the return hose.\\nYou can purchase red lava rocks at most aquarium supply stores or large pet stores.\\nFill the bottom of the container with lava rocks until the return hose is hidden beneath them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut filter material to match the shape of the container.\", \"描述\": \"Filter material often comes in rolls and is made out of layers of coarse and fine fabric. Unroll it and trace the general shape of the container onto the filter material. Cut the shape out and then repeat that process 3 more times until you have at least 4 layers of filter material to place in the container.\\nYou can purchase the water filter material at aquarium supply stores or on specialized websites.\\nIf you can’t find filter material, you can also use a mesh laundry bag filled with household sponges.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the filter material over the lava rocks.\", \"描述\": \"Lower a layer of filter material into the container and position it flat on top of the red lava rocks. Then place each additional layer on top of the previous one so the water has to pass through multiple layers of it before reaching the lava rocks.\\nIf you have trouble getting the filter material to stay on top of the rocks, you can add a layer of the metal screening you used at the end of the inlet hose to make it stiffer.\\nIf you used a laundry bag and sponges instead, make sure the bag and sponges completely cover the lava rocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Seal the top of the container with the lid.\", \"描述\": \"The lid will prevent any debris from falling into the filter while also preventing overflow if the filter drains slowly. Once the lid is on the filter, move it to where you intend to set it up.\\nMake sure to seal the lid once you put it on.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Filter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach a plastic screen to the end of the input hose on the pump.\", \"描述\": \"The water pump you put into your pond has an input hose that draws the water in. Use the same fish-friendly sealant you used to seal the hoses to the container to glue a metal screen to the end of the input hose to stop it from sucking up large debris. Wrap the screen around the end of the hose and then use the sealant to glue it in place.\\nYou can use any pliable screen material, including the screening commonly used for windows.\\nPurchase the screen at your local hardware store.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect the pump to the filter inlet.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the hose running from the lid of the filter to the outlet on your water pump. Place a hose clamp on the hose before you connect it, then use a Phillips head screwdriver to tighten the clamp over the hose and outlet nozzle to ensure it’s secure. At this stage, the pump is not connected to power, so it won’t function yet.\\nPlace both the pump and the filter at the pond’s edge once they’re connected.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the water pump in or near the pond and position the filter next to it.\", \"描述\": \"If the pump is not designed to be submerged, position it in a covered spot near the water’s edge and just submerge the inlet hose. Place the filter nearby on the water’s edge. When you turn on the pump, water will flow through it and into the filter.\\nSubmerge the screened end of the inlet hose in the water.\\nRead the package your pump came in. It will clearly specify if your pump is meant to be submerged in water.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Run the filter return hose back into the pond.\", \"描述\": \"The lower hose on the filter will allow the filtered water to return back into the pond. Simply orient the filter so the hole points toward the pond and run the hose from the hole into the water.\\nThis hose returns the clean water to the pond after it's been filtered.\\nPosition this hose as far away from the pump’s inlet hose as you can.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect the pump to power and switch it on.\", \"描述\": \"Plug the pump into a power source like an outdoor wall outlet. With the pump running, water will move into the top of the filter, pass through the filter material and lava rocks, and back out the return hose.\\nIt may take a few minutes for the water to fill the container enough to begin pouring out the return hose.\\nIf water completely fills the container and does not exit from the return hose, the outlet is blocked by the lava rocks. Disassemble the filter, clear the outlet, and try again.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Clean the filter media every month.\", \"描述\": \"Open the lid of the filter and remove the filter material. Rinse it thoroughly and then remove the lava rocks. Use a hose to rinse them off completely and then put both filters back into the container.\\nIf the pond is very dirty, clean the filter every two weeks instead of every month.\\nReplace the filter material if it becomes too dirty to allow water to pass through.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,473 |
How to Build a Pong Table (Dartmouth)
|
1. Steps
1-1. Obtain your materials, listed below.
You may already have some.
1-2. Cut each sheet of plywood into a 5'x4' section.
You will have two pieces left
1-3. With each of the leftover pieces, cut them into 2 2.5'x2' sections.
You now have 2 5'x4' sections, and 2 2.5'x2' sections. Your final table will be 5'x10'.
1-4. The larger sections will go at the ends of the table, where the cups go and where the players stand.
The smaller sections go in the middle, around the divider
1-5. On the underside of the table, use 2 of the 2x4s to join and support the side edges of the table, and use the leftover plywood to join/support the middle seams.
1-6. Cut the last 2x4 in half (into two 5' sections) and use each section to line the back edges of the table, just like you did for the side edges.
1-7. Once the table is screwed together fully, you will want to seal it with your latex primer.
Don't be shy, and use several coats to prevent spilled beer and humidity from ruining your table. Be especially thorough around the edges of the plywood, which are especially absorbent. It is recommended to seal the whole thing (top, bottom, sides, even the 2x4s) for optimal lifespan.
1-8. Using roughly 1 qt of your choice of paint (make sure it is compatible with your primer), color/decorate your table.
This step is optional but is the most fun part of the job. Some people make some pretty intricate paintings on their tables.
1-9. You will need to find something (anything) to use as your divider:
2x4, 4x4, broom, stick, person, ski, etc. The more random the better. Absolutely DO NOT pay for your divider.
Tips
The 2x4s should have their 2in side touching the bottom of the table (not the 4in side) for better strength. They will help keep the table from warping/bending.
Seal the table very well, especially around wood joints, screw heads, plywood edges, etc
5x10 plywood is a table already without any cutting, but is very expensive and hard to find. Use it if you can/want
Warnings
Nobody rages anymore.
Do not be drunk at all while building this. Also, be sure to pick the straightest and flattest pieces of wood at the store.
Please don't use those red 16oz solo cups, or else you will look like a high school kid.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:54",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Obtain your materials, listed below.\\nYou may already have some.\\n1-2. Cut each sheet of plywood into a 5'x4' section.\\nYou will have two pieces left\\n1-3. With each of the leftover pieces, cut them into 2 2.5'x2' sections.\\nYou now have 2 5'x4' sections, and 2 2.5'x2' sections. Your final table will be 5'x10'.\\n1-4. The larger sections will go at the ends of the table, where the cups go and where the players stand.\\nThe smaller sections go in the middle, around the divider\\n1-5. On the underside of the table, use 2 of the 2x4s to join and support the side edges of the table, and use the leftover plywood to join/support the middle seams.\\n\\n1-6. Cut the last 2x4 in half (into two 5' sections) and use each section to line the back edges of the table, just like you did for the side edges.\\n\\n1-7. Once the table is screwed together fully, you will want to seal it with your latex primer.\\nDon't be shy, and use several coats to prevent spilled beer and humidity from ruining your table. Be especially thorough around the edges of the plywood, which are especially absorbent. It is recommended to seal the whole thing (top, bottom, sides, even the 2x4s) for optimal lifespan.\\n1-8. Using roughly 1 qt of your choice of paint (make sure it is compatible with your primer), color/decorate your table.\\nThis step is optional but is the most fun part of the job. Some people make some pretty intricate paintings on their tables.\\n1-9. You will need to find something (anything) to use as your divider:\\n2x4, 4x4, broom, stick, person, ski, etc. The more random the better. Absolutely DO NOT pay for your divider.\\nTips\\nThe 2x4s should have their 2in side touching the bottom of the table (not the 4in side) for better strength. They will help keep the table from warping/bending.\\nSeal the table very well, especially around wood joints, screw heads, plywood edges, etc\\n5x10 plywood is a table already without any cutting, but is very expensive and hard to find. Use it if you can/want\\nWarnings\\nNobody rages anymore.\\nDo not be drunk at all while building this. Also, be sure to pick the straightest and flattest pieces of wood at the store.\\nPlease don't use those red 16oz solo cups, or else you will look like a high school kid.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pong was invented at Dartmouth College, and in order to play the original version of the game (with paddles) you will need a table much larger than a \\\"beer pong\\\" table. Many styles of the game, including the common lob-style, and older styles such as Slam Pong, can be played with this table. It is a bit larger than a regulation ping pong table. This article assumes you have no 5x10 plywood, which although simpler to use, is expensive and hard to find.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain your materials, listed below.\", \"描述\": \"You may already have some.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut each sheet of plywood into a 5'x4' section.\", \"描述\": \"You will have two pieces left\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"With each of the leftover pieces, cut them into 2 2.5'x2' sections.\", \"描述\": \"You now have 2 5'x4' sections, and 2 2.5'x2' sections. Your final table will be 5'x10'.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"The larger sections will go at the ends of the table, where the cups go and where the players stand.\", \"描述\": \"The smaller sections go in the middle, around the divider\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"On the underside of the table, use 2 of the 2x4s to join and support the side edges of the table, and use the leftover plywood to join/support the middle seams.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut the last 2x4 in half (into two 5' sections) and use each section to line the back edges of the table, just like you did for the side edges.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Once the table is screwed together fully, you will want to seal it with your latex primer.\", \"描述\": \"Don't be shy, and use several coats to prevent spilled beer and humidity from ruining your table. Be especially thorough around the edges of the plywood, which are especially absorbent. It is recommended to seal the whole thing (top, bottom, sides, even the 2x4s) for optimal lifespan.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Using roughly 1 qt of your choice of paint (make sure it is compatible with your primer), color/decorate your table.\", \"描述\": \"This step is optional but is the most fun part of the job. Some people make some pretty intricate paintings on their tables.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"You will need to find something (anything) to use as your divider:\", \"描述\": \"2x4, 4x4, broom, stick, person, ski, etc. The more random the better. Absolutely DO NOT pay for your divider.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The 2x4s should have their 2in side touching the bottom of the table (not the 4in side) for better strength. They will help keep the table from warping/bending.\\n\", \"Seal the table very well, especially around wood joints, screw heads, plywood edges, etc\\n\", \"5x10 plywood is a table already without any cutting, but is very expensive and hard to find. Use it if you can/want\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Nobody rages anymore.\\n\", \"Do not be drunk at all while building this. Also, be sure to pick the straightest and flattest pieces of wood at the store.\\n\", \"Please don't use those red 16oz solo cups, or else you will look like a high school kid.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,474 |
How to Build a Popsicle House
|
1. Building the Walls
1-1. Gather your supplies.
You will need around 100 Popsicle sticks. You can buy craft sticks at a hobby store or a big-box store with a craft section. You will also need glue. A hot glue gun works best, but children should have adult supervision. Also have paper, scissors, and a utility knife.
If you don’t want to use hot glue, a regular bottle of craft glue will work.
Always practice caution when using a hot glue gun as it can burn you.
1-2. Lay some newspaper or brown paper down.
Since you will be working with glue, it’s best to cover whatever surface you are working on with newspaper, a disposable tablecloth, or something that will protect the surface.
Hot glue can be hard to remove from surfaces so take extra precaution. Hot glue will also spill out of the gun sometimes, so always set it over the covered surface.
You can put a silicone mat underneath the gun.
1-3. Make four squares with Popsicle sticks.
Lay down two Popsicle sticks parallel to each other, the same distance apart as the length of one stick. Lay two more sticks on top of the first two forming a square. Glue these at the corners. Repeat this to build three more squares.
If you are using a glue gun, plug it in and turn it on. Let it heat up. Then squeeze the trigger to release the glue onto the sticks.
These squares will become the walls of the house.
1-4. Glue Popsicle sticks covering the wall frame.
With the square laying flat, glue enough sticks in a line to cover the entire square. Place a line of glue on two of the opposite sides of the square and lay the sticks in place. Repeat this to complete all four walls.
Be sure that you place the sticks tight together so that there are no gaps in the wall.
You may not have room for an entire stick when you get to the the end, so use the utility knife to trim a stick down to fit in the final spot.
2. Crafting the Roof
2-1. Build the initial frame.
Take three Popsicle sticks and form a triangle, overlapping the sticks at the corners. It doesn’t matter which of the sticks lays on top of which. Use a small drop of glue to connect the sticks at all three corners. Repeat the same process to make another triangle.
This basic roof uses just two triangles as the trusses, but you can make a more stable roof by making a third triangle, which would go between the two main ones in the roof.
2-2. Lay Popsicle sticks to create one side of the roof.
Place a dot of glue on the flat side of each end of a Popsicle stick. Attach the stick to both triangles so that it runs perpendicular. Repeat this process until you have covered the length of the triangles’ sides with sticks. Place the sticks tight together. Hold each stick in place for at least 5 seconds so the glue will hold.
Be gentle as you lay each stick so that you don’t pull any of the previous ones apart from the triangles.
2-3. Lay the second set of the roof slats.
In the same way that you laid the first side of the roof, glue sticks in place for the opposite side of the roof. Continue to be careful as you handle the roof so that you don’t break any of the sticks apart from the roof.
2-4. Cover the open ends of the roof.
You now have a roof frame that is open on either end. As an optional addition you can close off the interior of the roof completely. Starting from the bottom of the roof, glue a stick across the frame. As you add each additional stick, you will need to cut it slightly shorter as the triangle narrows toward its apex.
Closing the roof off completely will add realism to your Popsicle stick house as this is how real houses are constructed.
3. Assembling the House
3-1. Cut out windows.
If you want to enhance the house, you can cut one or two windows into the walls. This is easiest to do before you glue the walls together. Take the utility knife and carefully cut a 1 inch by 1 inch square in one or more of the walls.
Either center the window or you can cut it off to the side if you want to.
To make further adornments to the house, you could use the pieces you just cut from the window to create shutters on the sides or a frame around the window.
3-2. Cut out a door.
You can make your Popsicle house look even more realistic by cutting out a door. The size of craft sticks you use will determine how big the door should be. Make the door size most of the height of the house and about ⅓ of the width. Cut the door out with the utility knife.
You can glue a piece of paper the size of the door opening on the edge of the opening to act as an actual door. Bend the paper along the edge that you glue to simulate the door swinging open and closed.
3-3. Glue the walls together at the corners.
Take two of the walls and stand them so that the sticks are vertical. Squeeze a line of glue along the inside edge of the stick on the end of each wall. Gently press the glued edges together and hold for about 30 seconds.
Attach the remaining two walls one at a time to complete the basic structure of the house.
3-4. Install the roof on top.
Glue the roof in place by running a line along the entire top edge of the house. Set the roof onto the house and gently press down long enough for the glue to hold. You also have the option of not gluing the roof down and leaving it detachable so that you can place things inside the house.
3-5. Decorate the house.
You have nearly unlimited options for how to decorate it. Use spray paint to paint the whole house one color. Use a small paintbrush to paint the walls one color and the roof another color. Attach fabric or gift wrap to give the walls of the house a pattern. You could glue moss, flowers, or sticks to the house to give it a woodsy look.
Tips
Be prepared and gather your equipment first.
This type of Popsicle house is mainly meant for decoration and may not stand up under rough play.
You can paint or decorate the house in any way you want once it is assembled.
Warnings
Always be careful when using knives, you can cut yourself.
When cutting the sticks, be careful, you could get a splinter.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:55",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Walls\\n1-1. Gather your supplies.\\nYou will need around 100 Popsicle sticks. You can buy craft sticks at a hobby store or a big-box store with a craft section. You will also need glue. A hot glue gun works best, but children should have adult supervision. Also have paper, scissors, and a utility knife.\\nIf you don’t want to use hot glue, a regular bottle of craft glue will work.\\nAlways practice caution when using a hot glue gun as it can burn you.\\n1-2. Lay some newspaper or brown paper down.\\nSince you will be working with glue, it’s best to cover whatever surface you are working on with newspaper, a disposable tablecloth, or something that will protect the surface.\\nHot glue can be hard to remove from surfaces so take extra precaution. Hot glue will also spill out of the gun sometimes, so always set it over the covered surface.\\nYou can put a silicone mat underneath the gun.\\n1-3. Make four squares with Popsicle sticks.\\nLay down two Popsicle sticks parallel to each other, the same distance apart as the length of one stick. Lay two more sticks on top of the first two forming a square. Glue these at the corners. Repeat this to build three more squares.\\nIf you are using a glue gun, plug it in and turn it on. Let it heat up. Then squeeze the trigger to release the glue onto the sticks.\\nThese squares will become the walls of the house.\\n1-4. Glue Popsicle sticks covering the wall frame.\\nWith the square laying flat, glue enough sticks in a line to cover the entire square. Place a line of glue on two of the opposite sides of the square and lay the sticks in place. Repeat this to complete all four walls.\\nBe sure that you place the sticks tight together so that there are no gaps in the wall.\\nYou may not have room for an entire stick when you get to the the end, so use the utility knife to trim a stick down to fit in the final spot.\\n2. Crafting the Roof\\n2-1. Build the initial frame.\\nTake three Popsicle sticks and form a triangle, overlapping the sticks at the corners. It doesn’t matter which of the sticks lays on top of which. Use a small drop of glue to connect the sticks at all three corners. Repeat the same process to make another triangle.\\nThis basic roof uses just two triangles as the trusses, but you can make a more stable roof by making a third triangle, which would go between the two main ones in the roof.\\n2-2. Lay Popsicle sticks to create one side of the roof.\\nPlace a dot of glue on the flat side of each end of a Popsicle stick. Attach the stick to both triangles so that it runs perpendicular. Repeat this process until you have covered the length of the triangles’ sides with sticks. Place the sticks tight together. Hold each stick in place for at least 5 seconds so the glue will hold.\\nBe gentle as you lay each stick so that you don’t pull any of the previous ones apart from the triangles.\\n2-3. Lay the second set of the roof slats.\\nIn the same way that you laid the first side of the roof, glue sticks in place for the opposite side of the roof. Continue to be careful as you handle the roof so that you don’t break any of the sticks apart from the roof.\\n2-4. Cover the open ends of the roof.\\nYou now have a roof frame that is open on either end. As an optional addition you can close off the interior of the roof completely. Starting from the bottom of the roof, glue a stick across the frame. As you add each additional stick, you will need to cut it slightly shorter as the triangle narrows toward its apex.\\nClosing the roof off completely will add realism to your Popsicle stick house as this is how real houses are constructed.\\n3. Assembling the House\\n3-1. Cut out windows.\\nIf you want to enhance the house, you can cut one or two windows into the walls. This is easiest to do before you glue the walls together. Take the utility knife and carefully cut a 1 inch by 1 inch square in one or more of the walls.\\nEither center the window or you can cut it off to the side if you want to.\\nTo make further adornments to the house, you could use the pieces you just cut from the window to create shutters on the sides or a frame around the window.\\n3-2. Cut out a door.\\nYou can make your Popsicle house look even more realistic by cutting out a door. The size of craft sticks you use will determine how big the door should be. Make the door size most of the height of the house and about ⅓ of the width. Cut the door out with the utility knife.\\nYou can glue a piece of paper the size of the door opening on the edge of the opening to act as an actual door. Bend the paper along the edge that you glue to simulate the door swinging open and closed.\\n3-3. Glue the walls together at the corners.\\nTake two of the walls and stand them so that the sticks are vertical. Squeeze a line of glue along the inside edge of the stick on the end of each wall. Gently press the glued edges together and hold for about 30 seconds.\\nAttach the remaining two walls one at a time to complete the basic structure of the house.\\n3-4. Install the roof on top.\\nGlue the roof in place by running a line along the entire top edge of the house. Set the roof onto the house and gently press down long enough for the glue to hold. You also have the option of not gluing the roof down and leaving it detachable so that you can place things inside the house.\\n3-5. Decorate the house.\\nYou have nearly unlimited options for how to decorate it. Use spray paint to paint the whole house one color. Use a small paintbrush to paint the walls one color and the roof another color. Attach fabric or gift wrap to give the walls of the house a pattern. You could glue moss, flowers, or sticks to the house to give it a woodsy look.\\nTips\\nBe prepared and gather your equipment first.\\nThis type of Popsicle house is mainly meant for decoration and may not stand up under rough play.\\nYou can paint or decorate the house in any way you want once it is assembled.\\nWarnings\\nAlways be careful when using knives, you can cut yourself.\\nWhen cutting the sticks, be careful, you could get a splinter.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a popsicle house is a fun and simple way to pass the time. You could build your masterpiece a million different ways, but we've looked into it and have found that the very best one is to start by building four squares with sticks glued to them for the walls. Once that's done, you can build your roof by creating two triangles with sticks glued to them, just like slats. Then comes the best part - decorate to your heart's content!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Walls\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"You will need around 100 Popsicle sticks. You can buy craft sticks at a hobby store or a big-box store with a craft section. You will also need glue. A hot glue gun works best, but children should have adult supervision. Also have paper, scissors, and a utility knife.\\nIf you don’t want to use hot glue, a regular bottle of craft glue will work.\\nAlways practice caution when using a hot glue gun as it can burn you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay some newspaper or brown paper down.\", \"描述\": \"Since you will be working with glue, it’s best to cover whatever surface you are working on with newspaper, a disposable tablecloth, or something that will protect the surface.\\nHot glue can be hard to remove from surfaces so take extra precaution. Hot glue will also spill out of the gun sometimes, so always set it over the covered surface.\\nYou can put a silicone mat underneath the gun.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make four squares with Popsicle sticks.\", \"描述\": \"Lay down two Popsicle sticks parallel to each other, the same distance apart as the length of one stick. Lay two more sticks on top of the first two forming a square. Glue these at the corners. Repeat this to build three more squares.\\nIf you are using a glue gun, plug it in and turn it on. Let it heat up. Then squeeze the trigger to release the glue onto the sticks.\\nThese squares will become the walls of the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue Popsicle sticks covering the wall frame.\", \"描述\": \"With the square laying flat, glue enough sticks in a line to cover the entire square. Place a line of glue on two of the opposite sides of the square and lay the sticks in place. Repeat this to complete all four walls.\\nBe sure that you place the sticks tight together so that there are no gaps in the wall.\\nYou may not have room for an entire stick when you get to the the end, so use the utility knife to trim a stick down to fit in the final spot.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Crafting the Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build the initial frame.\", \"描述\": \"Take three Popsicle sticks and form a triangle, overlapping the sticks at the corners. It doesn’t matter which of the sticks lays on top of which. Use a small drop of glue to connect the sticks at all three corners. Repeat the same process to make another triangle.\\nThis basic roof uses just two triangles as the trusses, but you can make a more stable roof by making a third triangle, which would go between the two main ones in the roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay Popsicle sticks to create one side of the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Place a dot of glue on the flat side of each end of a Popsicle stick. Attach the stick to both triangles so that it runs perpendicular. Repeat this process until you have covered the length of the triangles’ sides with sticks. Place the sticks tight together. Hold each stick in place for at least 5 seconds so the glue will hold.\\nBe gentle as you lay each stick so that you don’t pull any of the previous ones apart from the triangles.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay the second set of the roof slats.\", \"描述\": \"In the same way that you laid the first side of the roof, glue sticks in place for the opposite side of the roof. Continue to be careful as you handle the roof so that you don’t break any of the sticks apart from the roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the open ends of the roof.\", \"描述\": \"You now have a roof frame that is open on either end. As an optional addition you can close off the interior of the roof completely. Starting from the bottom of the roof, glue a stick across the frame. As you add each additional stick, you will need to cut it slightly shorter as the triangle narrows toward its apex.\\nClosing the roof off completely will add realism to your Popsicle stick house as this is how real houses are constructed.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut out windows.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to enhance the house, you can cut one or two windows into the walls. This is easiest to do before you glue the walls together. Take the utility knife and carefully cut a 1 inch by 1 inch square in one or more of the walls.\\nEither center the window or you can cut it off to the side if you want to.\\nTo make further adornments to the house, you could use the pieces you just cut from the window to create shutters on the sides or a frame around the window.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut out a door.\", \"描述\": \"You can make your Popsicle house look even more realistic by cutting out a door. The size of craft sticks you use will determine how big the door should be. Make the door size most of the height of the house and about ⅓ of the width. Cut the door out with the utility knife.\\nYou can glue a piece of paper the size of the door opening on the edge of the opening to act as an actual door. Bend the paper along the edge that you glue to simulate the door swinging open and closed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue the walls together at the corners.\", \"描述\": \"Take two of the walls and stand them so that the sticks are vertical. Squeeze a line of glue along the inside edge of the stick on the end of each wall. Gently press the glued edges together and hold for about 30 seconds.\\nAttach the remaining two walls one at a time to complete the basic structure of the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the roof on top.\", \"描述\": \"Glue the roof in place by running a line along the entire top edge of the house. Set the roof onto the house and gently press down long enough for the glue to hold. You also have the option of not gluing the roof down and leaving it detachable so that you can place things inside the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Decorate the house.\", \"描述\": \"You have nearly unlimited options for how to decorate it. Use spray paint to paint the whole house one color. Use a small paintbrush to paint the walls one color and the roof another color. Attach fabric or gift wrap to give the walls of the house a pattern. You could glue moss, flowers, or sticks to the house to give it a woodsy look.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Be prepared and gather your equipment first.\\n\", \"This type of Popsicle house is mainly meant for decoration and may not stand up under rough play.\\n\", \"You can paint or decorate the house in any way you want once it is assembled.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always be careful when using knives, you can cut yourself.\\n\", \"When cutting the sticks, be careful, you could get a splinter.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,475 |
How to Build a Popsicle Stick Tower
|
1. Making the Basic Squares
1-1. Gather your necessary materials and arrange four popsicle sticks together in a square.
Lay out four popsicle sticks in a square with the horizontal sticks on the bottom and the vertical sticks laying on top. You want the sticks to be evenly spaced apart so they make a perfect square. Using one popsicle stick as a measuring device, make sure each stick is one “popsicle stick width” from the edge.
To make your tower as sturdy as possible, use wood glue instead of the basic white tacky glue.
Each layer of the tower will be made up of four basic squares, so each layer will use 20 popsicle sticks.
Lay two sticks vertically side-by-side across the two horizontal sticks to get the proper spacing.
To align the sticks together, use a straight edge such as a block of wood or a brick.
1-2. Glue each piece together.
Lift one end of a vertical stick and place a dab of glue underneath. Press the two sticks together. Repeat this with the other side of the popsicle stick and then two more times with the other vertical stick. At this point, you should have a basic four popsicle stick square glued together.
Take care to maintain the accuracy of the square. This will be important when gluing the “floors” of the tower together. Make each module as square and regular as possible.
Use a heavy weight such as a brick or textbook and lay on top of the glued joints to keep them flat while the glue dries.
If the square gets bumped out of alignment, simply move the sticks back into proper placement.
If the sticks dry out of alignment, you can carefully cut them apart with a knife and re-glue them or just make a new square.
1-3. Wait for the glue to dry.
Before continuing on to the next step, you want to let the glue dry. Follow the instructions listed on the bottle of glue you are using. The glue does not need to be completely dry, but you want to make sure it has set enough that the sticks will not move as you handle the square.
Leave the square under the heavy weight for at least 15 minutes before moving onto the next step.
1-4. Glue a cross brace diagonally across the square.
Place a popsicle stick diagonally on the “inside” of the square. The “inside” means the brace will be between the two vertical sticks and glued to the horizontal sticks. Place a small dab of glue at each end and glue the brace in place. The brace is essential stabilizing the structure and allowing it to hold more weight.
Put weight on top of the whole piece and wait about 15 minutes for the brace to dry.
Try to glue the brace in the same place on each square.
1-5. Repeat this whole process to make enough braced squares to complete your tower.
Starting with four new sticks, lay them out in a square and glue them together. After letting the glue set, add the brace to finish. Make enough squares to build your entire tower.
If you want five floors in your tower you will need 20 squares.
You will get better and better at building the boxes as you go along. Some of your earlier boxes may be "less precise", so if you have unlimited popsicle sticks, you may consider building additional boxes and discard some of the first attempts.
2. Joining the Squares into One Floor
2-1. Combine three squares into three-fourths of a cube.
Place one side with the cross brace facing out flat on a table. Slide a second square against the outside of the first piece so that it is sticking up. Slide the third square on the opposite side of the square.
It might be easier to place the first square on a raised platform so you can easily slide the other sides under it.
Opposite sides should have braces going in opposite directions.
2-2. Glue these pieces together.
Liberally apply glue at each corner to attach the sides together. Let the glue sit for at least 15 minutes to set before you try to glue the final side on. Place books or weights against each side to hold everything in place while it dries.
While the glue is setting, you can start assembling other squares or cubes.
You may need to hold the two pieces together, allowing the glue to set a bit before you place the books/weights to hold it in place.
2-3. Attach the fourth side to the cube.
Once the glue has set, you can attach the final side to the cube. Slide the side over the edges of the sticks and make sure that the brace is facing the opposite direction of the side opposite it. Apply enough glue to ensure a firm seal of the joint.
Wait for everything to dry. Continue to assemble other components while waiting for glue to set.
Again, you may need to hold the fourth wall in place to let the glue set so the cube will be formed properly.
2-4. Repeat to form the remaining squares into a cube.
Repeat this whole process assembling four squares into a cube until you have enough cubes to build the tower as high as you want. Set up multiple work stations so you can build more than one cube at a time.
Each cube takes four sides, so if you want to build a tower with five floors, you will need a total of 20 sides.
While your forming the cubes, try stacking them on top of each other and make sure they align properly. If they don’t, either break the cubes apart and remake them, or start with a fresh set of squares and make a new cube.
3. Assembling the Floors into a Tower
3-1. Stack two cubes on top of each other.
Stack a second cube on top of the first one so that the middle brace is going in the opposite direction of the side it’s stacked on top of. The tips of the popsicle sticks can overlap to give you a better position for gluing.
The vertical sticks should be resting directly on top of the horizontal sticks.
Your cubes should fit together pretty well. If you have to work them together a little bit, the tower will still work, it just won’t be as sturdy. If you have to force them to fit together, the tower will lose structural integrity.
3-2. Glue the joints of the cubes together.
Using the same wood glue used to assemble the other pieces, glue the joints of the cube together. Be generous with the glue to make a sturdier tower. If the squares have been properly constructed, they should fit together nicely.
If the cubes don’t sit nicely on top of each other, you may consider making a new cube so they stack properly. Uneven stacked cubes will not be as sturdy.
3-3. Clamp the joints of the cubes in place.
Use clothespins or workbench clamps and attach the clips to hold the two cubes together. Clip them on in such a way that they hold the joints together, but are not touching the glue.
Wait for everything to dry before removing the clamps and adding another cube to the tower.
3-4. Repeat the process with another cube.
Add another cube to the top of the tower making sure to alternate the direction of the diagonal cross beam for each level. Alternating the cross braces adds another level of structural integrity to the tower. Glue and clip each level to ensure strong bonding between the levels.
When you glue the last cube on top, your tower is finished!
Tips
Give yourself plenty of time to build the tower. Glue takes a long time to dry. Depending on your work area, maybe only a few modules can be under construction at a time. You also want a day or so for the final gluing to completely cure.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:55",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the Basic Squares\\n1-1. Gather your necessary materials and arrange four popsicle sticks together in a square.\\nLay out four popsicle sticks in a square with the horizontal sticks on the bottom and the vertical sticks laying on top. You want the sticks to be evenly spaced apart so they make a perfect square. Using one popsicle stick as a measuring device, make sure each stick is one “popsicle stick width” from the edge.\\nTo make your tower as sturdy as possible, use wood glue instead of the basic white tacky glue.\\nEach layer of the tower will be made up of four basic squares, so each layer will use 20 popsicle sticks.\\nLay two sticks vertically side-by-side across the two horizontal sticks to get the proper spacing.\\nTo align the sticks together, use a straight edge such as a block of wood or a brick.\\n1-2. Glue each piece together.\\nLift one end of a vertical stick and place a dab of glue underneath. Press the two sticks together. Repeat this with the other side of the popsicle stick and then two more times with the other vertical stick. At this point, you should have a basic four popsicle stick square glued together.\\nTake care to maintain the accuracy of the square. This will be important when gluing the “floors” of the tower together. Make each module as square and regular as possible.\\nUse a heavy weight such as a brick or textbook and lay on top of the glued joints to keep them flat while the glue dries.\\nIf the square gets bumped out of alignment, simply move the sticks back into proper placement.\\nIf the sticks dry out of alignment, you can carefully cut them apart with a knife and re-glue them or just make a new square.\\n1-3. Wait for the glue to dry.\\nBefore continuing on to the next step, you want to let the glue dry. Follow the instructions listed on the bottle of glue you are using. The glue does not need to be completely dry, but you want to make sure it has set enough that the sticks will not move as you handle the square.\\nLeave the square under the heavy weight for at least 15 minutes before moving onto the next step.\\n1-4. Glue a cross brace diagonally across the square.\\nPlace a popsicle stick diagonally on the “inside” of the square. The “inside” means the brace will be between the two vertical sticks and glued to the horizontal sticks. Place a small dab of glue at each end and glue the brace in place. The brace is essential stabilizing the structure and allowing it to hold more weight.\\nPut weight on top of the whole piece and wait about 15 minutes for the brace to dry.\\nTry to glue the brace in the same place on each square.\\n1-5. Repeat this whole process to make enough braced squares to complete your tower.\\nStarting with four new sticks, lay them out in a square and glue them together. After letting the glue set, add the brace to finish. Make enough squares to build your entire tower.\\nIf you want five floors in your tower you will need 20 squares.\\nYou will get better and better at building the boxes as you go along. Some of your earlier boxes may be \\\"less precise\\\", so if you have unlimited popsicle sticks, you may consider building additional boxes and discard some of the first attempts.\\n2. Joining the Squares into One Floor\\n2-1. Combine three squares into three-fourths of a cube.\\nPlace one side with the cross brace facing out flat on a table. Slide a second square against the outside of the first piece so that it is sticking up. Slide the third square on the opposite side of the square.\\nIt might be easier to place the first square on a raised platform so you can easily slide the other sides under it.\\nOpposite sides should have braces going in opposite directions.\\n2-2. Glue these pieces together.\\nLiberally apply glue at each corner to attach the sides together. Let the glue sit for at least 15 minutes to set before you try to glue the final side on. Place books or weights against each side to hold everything in place while it dries.\\nWhile the glue is setting, you can start assembling other squares or cubes.\\nYou may need to hold the two pieces together, allowing the glue to set a bit before you place the books/weights to hold it in place.\\n2-3. Attach the fourth side to the cube.\\nOnce the glue has set, you can attach the final side to the cube. Slide the side over the edges of the sticks and make sure that the brace is facing the opposite direction of the side opposite it. Apply enough glue to ensure a firm seal of the joint.\\nWait for everything to dry. Continue to assemble other components while waiting for glue to set.\\nAgain, you may need to hold the fourth wall in place to let the glue set so the cube will be formed properly.\\n2-4. Repeat to form the remaining squares into a cube.\\nRepeat this whole process assembling four squares into a cube until you have enough cubes to build the tower as high as you want. Set up multiple work stations so you can build more than one cube at a time.\\nEach cube takes four sides, so if you want to build a tower with five floors, you will need a total of 20 sides.\\nWhile your forming the cubes, try stacking them on top of each other and make sure they align properly. If they don’t, either break the cubes apart and remake them, or start with a fresh set of squares and make a new cube.\\n3. Assembling the Floors into a Tower\\n3-1. Stack two cubes on top of each other.\\nStack a second cube on top of the first one so that the middle brace is going in the opposite direction of the side it’s stacked on top of. The tips of the popsicle sticks can overlap to give you a better position for gluing.\\nThe vertical sticks should be resting directly on top of the horizontal sticks.\\nYour cubes should fit together pretty well. If you have to work them together a little bit, the tower will still work, it just won’t be as sturdy. If you have to force them to fit together, the tower will lose structural integrity.\\n3-2. Glue the joints of the cubes together.\\nUsing the same wood glue used to assemble the other pieces, glue the joints of the cube together. Be generous with the glue to make a sturdier tower. If the squares have been properly constructed, they should fit together nicely.\\nIf the cubes don’t sit nicely on top of each other, you may consider making a new cube so they stack properly. Uneven stacked cubes will not be as sturdy.\\n3-3. Clamp the joints of the cubes in place.\\nUse clothespins or workbench clamps and attach the clips to hold the two cubes together. Clip them on in such a way that they hold the joints together, but are not touching the glue.\\nWait for everything to dry before removing the clamps and adding another cube to the tower.\\n3-4. Repeat the process with another cube.\\nAdd another cube to the top of the tower making sure to alternate the direction of the diagonal cross beam for each level. Alternating the cross braces adds another level of structural integrity to the tower. Glue and clip each level to ensure strong bonding between the levels.\\nWhen you glue the last cube on top, your tower is finished!\\nTips\\nGive yourself plenty of time to build the tower. Glue takes a long time to dry. Depending on your work area, maybe only a few modules can be under construction at a time. You also want a day or so for the final gluing to completely cure.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Popsicle stick towers are a common engineering project to be assigned in school. Your assignment may have various criteria for height, weight, and number of popsicles, but this guide will give you a general idea of how to construct a sturdy tower out of just popsicle sticks and wood glue. This project is fun and relatively easy to do. When you are finished with your construction, add weight on top to see how much it can hold.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the Basic Squares\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your necessary materials and arrange four popsicle sticks together in a square.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out four popsicle sticks in a square with the horizontal sticks on the bottom and the vertical sticks laying on top. You want the sticks to be evenly spaced apart so they make a perfect square. Using one popsicle stick as a measuring device, make sure each stick is one “popsicle stick width” from the edge.\\nTo make your tower as sturdy as possible, use wood glue instead of the basic white tacky glue.\\nEach layer of the tower will be made up of four basic squares, so each layer will use 20 popsicle sticks.\\nLay two sticks vertically side-by-side across the two horizontal sticks to get the proper spacing.\\nTo align the sticks together, use a straight edge such as a block of wood or a brick.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Glue each piece together.\", \"描述\": \"Lift one end of a vertical stick and place a dab of glue underneath. Press the two sticks together. Repeat this with the other side of the popsicle stick and then two more times with the other vertical stick. At this point, you should have a basic four popsicle stick square glued together.\\nTake care to maintain the accuracy of the square. This will be important when gluing the “floors” of the tower together. Make each module as square and regular as possible.\\nUse a heavy weight such as a brick or textbook and lay on top of the glued joints to keep them flat while the glue dries.\\nIf the square gets bumped out of alignment, simply move the sticks back into proper placement.\\nIf the sticks dry out of alignment, you can carefully cut them apart with a knife and re-glue them or just make a new square.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wait for the glue to dry.\", \"描述\": \"Before continuing on to the next step, you want to let the glue dry. Follow the instructions listed on the bottle of glue you are using. The glue does not need to be completely dry, but you want to make sure it has set enough that the sticks will not move as you handle the square.\\nLeave the square under the heavy weight for at least 15 minutes before moving onto the next step.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue a cross brace diagonally across the square.\", \"描述\": \"Place a popsicle stick diagonally on the “inside” of the square. The “inside” means the brace will be between the two vertical sticks and glued to the horizontal sticks. Place a small dab of glue at each end and glue the brace in place. The brace is essential stabilizing the structure and allowing it to hold more weight.\\nPut weight on top of the whole piece and wait about 15 minutes for the brace to dry.\\nTry to glue the brace in the same place on each square.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Repeat this whole process to make enough braced squares to complete your tower.\", \"描述\": \"Starting with four new sticks, lay them out in a square and glue them together. After letting the glue set, add the brace to finish. Make enough squares to build your entire tower.\\nIf you want five floors in your tower you will need 20 squares.\\nYou will get better and better at building the boxes as you go along. Some of your earlier boxes may be \\\"less precise\\\", so if you have unlimited popsicle sticks, you may consider building additional boxes and discard some of the first attempts.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Joining the Squares into One Floor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Combine three squares into three-fourths of a cube.\", \"描述\": \"Place one side with the cross brace facing out flat on a table. Slide a second square against the outside of the first piece so that it is sticking up. Slide the third square on the opposite side of the square.\\nIt might be easier to place the first square on a raised platform so you can easily slide the other sides under it.\\nOpposite sides should have braces going in opposite directions.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Glue these pieces together.\", \"描述\": \"Liberally apply glue at each corner to attach the sides together. Let the glue sit for at least 15 minutes to set before you try to glue the final side on. Place books or weights against each side to hold everything in place while it dries.\\nWhile the glue is setting, you can start assembling other squares or cubes.\\nYou may need to hold the two pieces together, allowing the glue to set a bit before you place the books/weights to hold it in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the fourth side to the cube.\", \"描述\": \"Once the glue has set, you can attach the final side to the cube. Slide the side over the edges of the sticks and make sure that the brace is facing the opposite direction of the side opposite it. Apply enough glue to ensure a firm seal of the joint.\\nWait for everything to dry. Continue to assemble other components while waiting for glue to set.\\nAgain, you may need to hold the fourth wall in place to let the glue set so the cube will be formed properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat to form the remaining squares into a cube.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat this whole process assembling four squares into a cube until you have enough cubes to build the tower as high as you want. Set up multiple work stations so you can build more than one cube at a time.\\nEach cube takes four sides, so if you want to build a tower with five floors, you will need a total of 20 sides.\\nWhile your forming the cubes, try stacking them on top of each other and make sure they align properly. If they don’t, either break the cubes apart and remake them, or start with a fresh set of squares and make a new cube.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Floors into a Tower\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Stack two cubes on top of each other.\", \"描述\": \"Stack a second cube on top of the first one so that the middle brace is going in the opposite direction of the side it’s stacked on top of. The tips of the popsicle sticks can overlap to give you a better position for gluing.\\nThe vertical sticks should be resting directly on top of the horizontal sticks.\\nYour cubes should fit together pretty well. If you have to work them together a little bit, the tower will still work, it just won’t be as sturdy. If you have to force them to fit together, the tower will lose structural integrity.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Glue the joints of the cubes together.\", \"描述\": \"Using the same wood glue used to assemble the other pieces, glue the joints of the cube together. Be generous with the glue to make a sturdier tower. If the squares have been properly constructed, they should fit together nicely.\\nIf the cubes don’t sit nicely on top of each other, you may consider making a new cube so they stack properly. Uneven stacked cubes will not be as sturdy.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clamp the joints of the cubes in place.\", \"描述\": \"Use clothespins or workbench clamps and attach the clips to hold the two cubes together. Clip them on in such a way that they hold the joints together, but are not touching the glue.\\nWait for everything to dry before removing the clamps and adding another cube to the tower.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat the process with another cube.\", \"描述\": \"Add another cube to the top of the tower making sure to alternate the direction of the diagonal cross beam for each level. Alternating the cross braces adds another level of structural integrity to the tower. Glue and clip each level to ensure strong bonding between the levels.\\nWhen you glue the last cube on top, your tower is finished!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Give yourself plenty of time to build the tower. Glue takes a long time to dry. Depending on your work area, maybe only a few modules can be under construction at a time. You also want a day or so for the final gluing to completely cure.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,476 |
How to Build a Porch Swing
|
1. Getting Started
1-1. Measure the space where you want to install your swing.
This area will determine how long your porch swing will be. If the ceiling above your porch has joists, exposed beams, or any other structural elements with cracks running between them, you may want to make the bench a length that will allow you to center the anchors for hanging the swing between the cracks.
Consider how deep the seat and how tall the back will be. Measure the seat and back of a similar chair that you feel comfortable in (e.g. a dining chair). The swing built over the course of these instructions is 20 in. (508 mm) deep in the seat and 18 in. (457 mm) tall in the backrest, which is comfortable for a fairly tall individual but may not be as comfortable for a person with shorter legs.
1-2. Choose the materials you will use for building your swing.
Cedar, fir, cypress, juniper, or even birch will work equally well as long as the components are thick and strong enough to support the weight they will carry, though redwood would be the best choice for many projects. Avoid using treated yellow pine.
1-3. Gather all the tools, fasteners, and lumber you need for the project.
Here is the list broken down by type; see Things You’ll Need for additional dimensions and sizes.
Tools: Circular saw, jigsaw, hammer, tape measure, square, and drill with bits
Fasteners: Wood screws, eye bolts
Lumber: Fifteen 1x4 in. (25.4x102 mm) boards as long as the width of your swing; one 2x6 in (51x152 mm) board that is 8 feet (2.4 m). (2.44 m) long.
1-4. Set a table up to work on.
A pair of metal sawhorses with a sheet of plywood work great as a makeshift table, but any flat surface that provides a workspace at a comfortable working height will do.
2. Measuring and Cutting
2-1. Measure and cut seven 2x4 in.
. The 2x4 used in this article is 5 feet (1.5 m) (152 cm) long. Cut these boards to length, being careful to make all cuts square (90 degrees) if you are laying all the boards together to cut them at once.
2-2. Set blocks on the table to support the boards.
Next, attach a stop for keeping them from sliding while you rip them to width. If you have a table saw, you can use this for ripping the slats instead.
2-3. Rip the cut boards into slats for the seat and back.
The seat slats need to be 3/4 in. (19 mm) wide, while the back slats (which support less weight) only need to be 3/4 in. (19mm) wide. For a seat 20 inches (508 mm) deep, you will only need about seat 17 slats (to allow for gaps between slats); for a back 18 inches (457mm) tall, you will only need 15 back slats.
If your seat or back will be a different size than the one in this example and you aren’t sure how many slats you’ll need, make several slats fewer than the total measurement of the space in inches. Aim on the low side for now; you can always rip more later.
2-4. Drill through each slat, 1 in. (25.4 mm) from both ends, with a 3/16 in. (4.76 mm) drill bit
. Later, when you attach the slats to the frame with wood screws, these pre-drilled holes will keep the slats from splitting.
You may also want to drill a hole in the dead center of each slat depending on whether or not you think your bench needs a center support. If you’re making a short bench and/or working with hardwood, a center support may not be necessary. If in doubt, however, include one. The bench in this tutorial has a center support.
2-5. Cut either four or six 2x6 in.
. If your bench only needs outer supports, cut two back- and two bottom supports; if it also needs a center support, cut three of each. The length of the back pieces should equal the desired height of the bench; the length of the bottom pieces should equal the desired depth of the seat.
2-6. Draw and cut curves into the back and bottom supports (optional).
The bench in this example will have gentle curves cut into the bench supports to make the bench more comfortable, not to mention aesthetically pleasing. The amount of curvature depends on your preference, but the seat and back can actually be straight if you prefer.
Choose one back support piece, draw the curve freehand with a pencil. Unless the back and bottom supports will be the same length, you will need to do this again with a bottom support piece.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/e\/e5\/Porchswing12_936.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/e\/e5\/Porchswing12_936.jpg\/448px-Porchswing12_936.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":448,"bigHeight":336,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\nLicense: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
Cut the marked back support piece with a jigsaw. Leave the narrow end a bit long for trimming to fit the joints together. Next, either trace it onto the other back supports or use it as a jig. Repeat with the bottom support pieces.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/7\/7e\/IMG_2402_182.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/7\/7e\/IMG_2402_182.jpg\/448px-IMG_2402_182.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":448,"bigHeight":336,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\nLicense: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
2-7. Cut a miter at the ends of the back and the seat board.
This is so the back and seat boards join at the correct angle for the amount of slant (recline) you want your seat to have. You can start by cutting a 45-degree angle into one of the two pieces, then laying it on top of the opposite piece and twisting it until you get the amount of angle you want. When you’re satisfied, mark the angle onto the uncut piece by tracing along the edge of the top piece you just cut, then cut along the traced line. Trace the cut edge of the back support piece into all the other back supports and cut them to match, then do the same with the bottom supports.
The two angles in all likelihood won't be the same, but it shouldn't matter since they are on the bottom rear of the swing, out of sight.
3. Bringing the Swing Together
3-1. Attach the back supports to the bottom supports.
Drill pilot holes for the screws that will join each pair of supports together, then fasten them with 3/2 in. (89 mm), #12 gold-plated wood screws. This is a critical connection: since the screws are the only support for this joint, they will have a good bit of pressure in them.
Depending on the length of the joint, you might want to insert the two screws at opposing angles.
3-2. Set the completed support-piece pairs on your table and lay the innermost slat of wood you ripped earlier across them.
Make sure you’ve spaced the supports evenly and oriented all the back supports in the same direction, then screw the central slat into place.
Unless you don’t mind cutting into the overhang to accommodate the armrests, don’t situate your slates so that they overhang both side supports. The armrests will later attach to the side supports, meaning the overhang will just get in the way.
3-3. Attach the other slats.
First, use a framing square to make sure the support pieces are square with the preliminary slat, then screw on the other slats.
Place the square along both the preliminary slat and one of the support pieces and measure whether or not they are square. Repeat with the other support pieces as necessary. If necessary, rack the supports (by shifting them sideways) to make a more perfect 90 degree angle.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/d\/d4\/Porchswing26_670.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/d\/d4\/Porchswing26_670.jpg\/448px-Porchswing26_670.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":448,"bigHeight":336,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\nLicense: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
Space additional slats across the seat, leaving a 1/4 in (6.35mm) space between them. (If necessary, rip more slats to get the spacing the way you like it.) You can tack these temporarily or go ahead and fasten them securely, but you may find it necessary to adjust them to get your spacing to work out uniformly. Attaching the top-most back slat and front-most seat slat first before filling in the others might make it easier to keep your frame square. Take care to use the thicker (3/4 in.) strips for the seat, and the 1/2 in. (13 mm) strips for the back.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/3\/39\/Porchswing27_744.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/3\/39\/Porchswing27_744.jpg\/448px-Porchswing27_744.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":336,"bigWidth":448,"bigHeight":327,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\nLicense: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
3-4. Make two armrest supports and armrests.
Generally, the armrest should be about 8in (20cm) high and 18-20in (~.5 m) long.
Make the armrest supports. Cut two wedge-shaped 2x4 in. (50x100 mm) boards about 13 inches (33 cm) long, tapered from 2 /4 inches (70mm) on one end to 3/4 inch (19mm) on the other.
Make the actual armrests. Cut two more boards 22in (56cm) long, tapered on one end from 1 /2 inches (3.8cm) to full width in 10 inches (25.4cm) for each armrest itself.
Attach the armrests. Locate the height you want the armrest on the back frame, then locate the position you want the support on the seat portion of the frame. Attach these with 3 in. (7.5 cm) #12 wood screws. Fasten through the top of the armrest down into the support board with two more wood screws.
3-5. Drill a hole through the armrest support and the seat frame for the eyebolt.
The eyebolt will attach your swing chain to the swing. Then, drill through the back frame for another eyebolt for the back chain. Screw in the eyebolts, place washers over the backs (to keep the nuts from drawing into the wood frame), and tighten the nuts over the ends with a wrench.
3-6. Locate the position and height of your swing.
Install eyebolts or eye-screws on a solid board for the overhead connection, and measure the length you will need your chains to hang your swing. You may find you need to adjust the chains to get the swing tilted back the proper amount to be comfortable for you.
Tips
Sand any edges smooth to prevent splinters or other injuries which may occur from the wood.
Use galvanized or coated fasteners to prevent corrosion. Galvanized fasteners are not recommended for cedar wood, however.
Sand out any edges that may need it to prevent children from bumping into them and injuring themselves.
Warnings
Use safety precautions when operating power tools.
Never let small children play on this swing unattended; they may fall off, or it may swing into them.
Connections must be secure for safe use of the finished swing.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:55",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Started\\n1-1. Measure the space where you want to install your swing.\\nThis area will determine how long your porch swing will be. If the ceiling above your porch has joists, exposed beams, or any other structural elements with cracks running between them, you may want to make the bench a length that will allow you to center the anchors for hanging the swing between the cracks.\\nConsider how deep the seat and how tall the back will be. Measure the seat and back of a similar chair that you feel comfortable in (e.g. a dining chair). The swing built over the course of these instructions is 20 in. (508 mm) deep in the seat and 18 in. (457 mm) tall in the backrest, which is comfortable for a fairly tall individual but may not be as comfortable for a person with shorter legs.\\n1-2. Choose the materials you will use for building your swing.\\nCedar, fir, cypress, juniper, or even birch will work equally well as long as the components are thick and strong enough to support the weight they will carry, though redwood would be the best choice for many projects. Avoid using treated yellow pine.\\n1-3. Gather all the tools, fasteners, and lumber you need for the project.\\nHere is the list broken down by type; see Things You’ll Need for additional dimensions and sizes.\\n\\nTools: Circular saw, jigsaw, hammer, tape measure, square, and drill with bits\\nFasteners: Wood screws, eye bolts\\nLumber: Fifteen 1x4 in. (25.4x102 mm) boards as long as the width of your swing; one 2x6 in (51x152 mm) board that is 8 feet (2.4 m). (2.44 m) long.\\n1-4. Set a table up to work on.\\nA pair of metal sawhorses with a sheet of plywood work great as a makeshift table, but any flat surface that provides a workspace at a comfortable working height will do.\\n2. Measuring and Cutting\\n2-1. Measure and cut seven 2x4 in.\\n. The 2x4 used in this article is 5 feet (1.5 m) (152 cm) long. Cut these boards to length, being careful to make all cuts square (90 degrees) if you are laying all the boards together to cut them at once.\\n2-2. Set blocks on the table to support the boards.\\nNext, attach a stop for keeping them from sliding while you rip them to width. If you have a table saw, you can use this for ripping the slats instead.\\n2-3. Rip the cut boards into slats for the seat and back.\\nThe seat slats need to be 3/4 in. (19 mm) wide, while the back slats (which support less weight) only need to be 3/4 in. (19mm) wide. For a seat 20 inches (508 mm) deep, you will only need about seat 17 slats (to allow for gaps between slats); for a back 18 inches (457mm) tall, you will only need 15 back slats.\\nIf your seat or back will be a different size than the one in this example and you aren’t sure how many slats you’ll need, make several slats fewer than the total measurement of the space in inches. Aim on the low side for now; you can always rip more later.\\n2-4. Drill through each slat, 1 in. (25.4 mm) from both ends, with a 3/16 in. (4.76 mm) drill bit\\n. Later, when you attach the slats to the frame with wood screws, these pre-drilled holes will keep the slats from splitting.\\nYou may also want to drill a hole in the dead center of each slat depending on whether or not you think your bench needs a center support. If you’re making a short bench and/or working with hardwood, a center support may not be necessary. If in doubt, however, include one. The bench in this tutorial has a center support.\\n2-5. Cut either four or six 2x6 in.\\n. If your bench only needs outer supports, cut two back- and two bottom supports; if it also needs a center support, cut three of each. The length of the back pieces should equal the desired height of the bench; the length of the bottom pieces should equal the desired depth of the seat.\\n2-6. Draw and cut curves into the back and bottom supports (optional).\\nThe bench in this example will have gentle curves cut into the bench supports to make the bench more comfortable, not to mention aesthetically pleasing. The amount of curvature depends on your preference, but the seat and back can actually be straight if you prefer.\\nChoose one back support piece, draw the curve freehand with a pencil. Unless the back and bottom supports will be the same length, you will need to do this again with a bottom support piece.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/e\\\\/e5\\\\/Porchswing12_936.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/e5\\\\/Porchswing12_936.jpg\\\\/448px-Porchswing12_936.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":448,\\\"bigHeight\\\":336,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nCut the marked back support piece with a jigsaw. Leave the narrow end a bit long for trimming to fit the joints together. Next, either trace it onto the other back supports or use it as a jig. Repeat with the bottom support pieces.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/7\\\\/7e\\\\/IMG_2402_182.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7e\\\\/IMG_2402_182.jpg\\\\/448px-IMG_2402_182.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":448,\\\"bigHeight\\\":336,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n2-7. Cut a miter at the ends of the back and the seat board.\\nThis is so the back and seat boards join at the correct angle for the amount of slant (recline) you want your seat to have. You can start by cutting a 45-degree angle into one of the two pieces, then laying it on top of the opposite piece and twisting it until you get the amount of angle you want. When you’re satisfied, mark the angle onto the uncut piece by tracing along the edge of the top piece you just cut, then cut along the traced line. Trace the cut edge of the back support piece into all the other back supports and cut them to match, then do the same with the bottom supports.\\nThe two angles in all likelihood won't be the same, but it shouldn't matter since they are on the bottom rear of the swing, out of sight.\\n3. Bringing the Swing Together\\n3-1. Attach the back supports to the bottom supports.\\nDrill pilot holes for the screws that will join each pair of supports together, then fasten them with 3/2 in. (89 mm), #12 gold-plated wood screws. This is a critical connection: since the screws are the only support for this joint, they will have a good bit of pressure in them.\\nDepending on the length of the joint, you might want to insert the two screws at opposing angles.\\n3-2. Set the completed support-piece pairs on your table and lay the innermost slat of wood you ripped earlier across them.\\nMake sure you’ve spaced the supports evenly and oriented all the back supports in the same direction, then screw the central slat into place.\\nUnless you don’t mind cutting into the overhang to accommodate the armrests, don’t situate your slates so that they overhang both side supports. The armrests will later attach to the side supports, meaning the overhang will just get in the way.\\n3-3. Attach the other slats.\\nFirst, use a framing square to make sure the support pieces are square with the preliminary slat, then screw on the other slats.\\nPlace the square along both the preliminary slat and one of the support pieces and measure whether or not they are square. Repeat with the other support pieces as necessary. If necessary, rack the supports (by shifting them sideways) to make a more perfect 90 degree angle.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/d\\\\/d4\\\\/Porchswing26_670.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d4\\\\/Porchswing26_670.jpg\\\\/448px-Porchswing26_670.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":448,\\\"bigHeight\\\":336,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSpace additional slats across the seat, leaving a 1/4 in (6.35mm) space between them. (If necessary, rip more slats to get the spacing the way you like it.) You can tack these temporarily or go ahead and fasten them securely, but you may find it necessary to adjust them to get your spacing to work out uniformly. Attaching the top-most back slat and front-most seat slat first before filling in the others might make it easier to keep your frame square. Take care to use the thicker (3/4 in.) strips for the seat, and the 1/2 in. (13 mm) strips for the back.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/3\\\\/39\\\\/Porchswing27_744.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/39\\\\/Porchswing27_744.jpg\\\\/448px-Porchswing27_744.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":336,\\\"bigWidth\\\":448,\\\"bigHeight\\\":327,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n3-4. Make two armrest supports and armrests.\\nGenerally, the armrest should be about 8in (20cm) high and 18-20in (~.5 m) long.\\nMake the armrest supports. Cut two wedge-shaped 2x4 in. (50x100 mm) boards about 13 inches (33 cm) long, tapered from 2 /4 inches (70mm) on one end to 3/4 inch (19mm) on the other.\\nMake the actual armrests. Cut two more boards 22in (56cm) long, tapered on one end from 1 /2 inches (3.8cm) to full width in 10 inches (25.4cm) for each armrest itself.\\nAttach the armrests. Locate the height you want the armrest on the back frame, then locate the position you want the support on the seat portion of the frame. Attach these with 3 in. (7.5 cm) #12 wood screws. Fasten through the top of the armrest down into the support board with two more wood screws.\\n3-5. Drill a hole through the armrest support and the seat frame for the eyebolt.\\nThe eyebolt will attach your swing chain to the swing. Then, drill through the back frame for another eyebolt for the back chain. Screw in the eyebolts, place washers over the backs (to keep the nuts from drawing into the wood frame), and tighten the nuts over the ends with a wrench.\\n3-6. Locate the position and height of your swing.\\nInstall eyebolts or eye-screws on a solid board for the overhead connection, and measure the length you will need your chains to hang your swing. You may find you need to adjust the chains to get the swing tilted back the proper amount to be comfortable for you.\\nTips\\nSand any edges smooth to prevent splinters or other injuries which may occur from the wood.\\nUse galvanized or coated fasteners to prevent corrosion. Galvanized fasteners are not recommended for cedar wood, however.\\nSand out any edges that may need it to prevent children from bumping into them and injuring themselves.\\nWarnings\\nUse safety precautions when operating power tools.\\nNever let small children play on this swing unattended; they may fall off, or it may swing into them.\\nConnections must be secure for safe use of the finished swing.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Few things beat the relaxation of sitting back in the shade passing a cool spring evening in a porch swing. A swing you've made yourself. For those who have some basic power tools and skills to use them, this is a fun project that looks beautiful on nearly any kind of porch. This swing can also be mounted to a freestanding support frame instead a porch if desired.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Started\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the space where you want to install your swing.\", \"描述\": \"This area will determine how long your porch swing will be. If the ceiling above your porch has joists, exposed beams, or any other structural elements with cracks running between them, you may want to make the bench a length that will allow you to center the anchors for hanging the swing between the cracks.\\nConsider how deep the seat and how tall the back will be. Measure the seat and back of a similar chair that you feel comfortable in (e.g. a dining chair). The swing built over the course of these instructions is 20 in. (508 mm) deep in the seat and 18 in. (457 mm) tall in the backrest, which is comfortable for a fairly tall individual but may not be as comfortable for a person with shorter legs.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose the materials you will use for building your swing.\", \"描述\": \"Cedar, fir, cypress, juniper, or even birch will work equally well as long as the components are thick and strong enough to support the weight they will carry, though redwood would be the best choice for many projects. Avoid using treated yellow pine.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather all the tools, fasteners, and lumber you need for the project.\", \"描述\": \"Here is the list broken down by type; see Things You’ll Need for additional dimensions and sizes.\\n\\nTools: Circular saw, jigsaw, hammer, tape measure, square, and drill with bits\\nFasteners: Wood screws, eye bolts\\nLumber: Fifteen 1x4 in. (25.4x102 mm) boards as long as the width of your swing; one 2x6 in (51x152 mm) board that is 8 feet (2.4 m). (2.44 m) long.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set a table up to work on.\", \"描述\": \"A pair of metal sawhorses with a sheet of plywood work great as a makeshift table, but any flat surface that provides a workspace at a comfortable working height will do.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measuring and Cutting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut seven 2x4 in.\", \"描述\": \". The 2x4 used in this article is 5 feet (1.5 m) (152 cm) long. Cut these boards to length, being careful to make all cuts square (90 degrees) if you are laying all the boards together to cut them at once.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set blocks on the table to support the boards.\", \"描述\": \"Next, attach a stop for keeping them from sliding while you rip them to width. If you have a table saw, you can use this for ripping the slats instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Rip the cut boards into slats for the seat and back.\", \"描述\": \"The seat slats need to be 3/4 in. (19 mm) wide, while the back slats (which support less weight) only need to be 3/4 in. (19mm) wide. For a seat 20 inches (508 mm) deep, you will only need about seat 17 slats (to allow for gaps between slats); for a back 18 inches (457mm) tall, you will only need 15 back slats.\\nIf your seat or back will be a different size than the one in this example and you aren’t sure how many slats you’ll need, make several slats fewer than the total measurement of the space in inches. Aim on the low side for now; you can always rip more later.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill through each slat, 1 in. (25.4 mm) from both ends, with a 3/16 in. (4.76 mm) drill bit\", \"描述\": \". Later, when you attach the slats to the frame with wood screws, these pre-drilled holes will keep the slats from splitting.\\nYou may also want to drill a hole in the dead center of each slat depending on whether or not you think your bench needs a center support. If you’re making a short bench and/or working with hardwood, a center support may not be necessary. If in doubt, however, include one. The bench in this tutorial has a center support.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut either four or six 2x6 in.\", \"描述\": \". If your bench only needs outer supports, cut two back- and two bottom supports; if it also needs a center support, cut three of each. The length of the back pieces should equal the desired height of the bench; the length of the bottom pieces should equal the desired depth of the seat.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Draw and cut curves into the back and bottom supports (optional).\", \"描述\": \"The bench in this example will have gentle curves cut into the bench supports to make the bench more comfortable, not to mention aesthetically pleasing. The amount of curvature depends on your preference, but the seat and back can actually be straight if you prefer.\\nChoose one back support piece, draw the curve freehand with a pencil. Unless the back and bottom supports will be the same length, you will need to do this again with a bottom support piece.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/e\\\\/e5\\\\/Porchswing12_936.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/e5\\\\/Porchswing12_936.jpg\\\\/448px-Porchswing12_936.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":448,\\\"bigHeight\\\":336,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nCut the marked back support piece with a jigsaw. Leave the narrow end a bit long for trimming to fit the joints together. Next, either trace it onto the other back supports or use it as a jig. Repeat with the bottom support pieces.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/7\\\\/7e\\\\/IMG_2402_182.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7e\\\\/IMG_2402_182.jpg\\\\/448px-IMG_2402_182.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":448,\\\"bigHeight\\\":336,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut a miter at the ends of the back and the seat board.\", \"描述\": \"This is so the back and seat boards join at the correct angle for the amount of slant (recline) you want your seat to have. You can start by cutting a 45-degree angle into one of the two pieces, then laying it on top of the opposite piece and twisting it until you get the amount of angle you want. When you’re satisfied, mark the angle onto the uncut piece by tracing along the edge of the top piece you just cut, then cut along the traced line. Trace the cut edge of the back support piece into all the other back supports and cut them to match, then do the same with the bottom supports.\\nThe two angles in all likelihood won't be the same, but it shouldn't matter since they are on the bottom rear of the swing, out of sight.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Bringing the Swing Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach the back supports to the bottom supports.\", \"描述\": \"Drill pilot holes for the screws that will join each pair of supports together, then fasten them with 3/2 in. (89 mm), #12 gold-plated wood screws. This is a critical connection: since the screws are the only support for this joint, they will have a good bit of pressure in them.\\nDepending on the length of the joint, you might want to insert the two screws at opposing angles.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set the completed support-piece pairs on your table and lay the innermost slat of wood you ripped earlier across them.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you’ve spaced the supports evenly and oriented all the back supports in the same direction, then screw the central slat into place.\\nUnless you don’t mind cutting into the overhang to accommodate the armrests, don’t situate your slates so that they overhang both side supports. The armrests will later attach to the side supports, meaning the overhang will just get in the way.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the other slats.\", \"描述\": \"First, use a framing square to make sure the support pieces are square with the preliminary slat, then screw on the other slats.\\nPlace the square along both the preliminary slat and one of the support pieces and measure whether or not they are square. Repeat with the other support pieces as necessary. If necessary, rack the supports (by shifting them sideways) to make a more perfect 90 degree angle.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/d\\\\/d4\\\\/Porchswing26_670.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d4\\\\/Porchswing26_670.jpg\\\\/448px-Porchswing26_670.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":448,\\\"bigHeight\\\":336,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSpace additional slats across the seat, leaving a 1/4 in (6.35mm) space between them. (If necessary, rip more slats to get the spacing the way you like it.) You can tack these temporarily or go ahead and fasten them securely, but you may find it necessary to adjust them to get your spacing to work out uniformly. Attaching the top-most back slat and front-most seat slat first before filling in the others might make it easier to keep your frame square. Take care to use the thicker (3/4 in.) strips for the seat, and the 1/2 in. (13 mm) strips for the back.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/3\\\\/39\\\\/Porchswing27_744.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/39\\\\/Porchswing27_744.jpg\\\\/448px-Porchswing27_744.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":336,\\\"bigWidth\\\":448,\\\"bigHeight\\\":327,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Image by: Uploader<br>\\\\nLicense: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make two armrest supports and armrests.\", \"描述\": \"Generally, the armrest should be about 8in (20cm) high and 18-20in (~.5 m) long.\\nMake the armrest supports. Cut two wedge-shaped 2x4 in. (50x100 mm) boards about 13 inches (33 cm) long, tapered from 2 /4 inches (70mm) on one end to 3/4 inch (19mm) on the other.\\nMake the actual armrests. Cut two more boards 22in (56cm) long, tapered on one end from 1 /2 inches (3.8cm) to full width in 10 inches (25.4cm) for each armrest itself.\\nAttach the armrests. Locate the height you want the armrest on the back frame, then locate the position you want the support on the seat portion of the frame. Attach these with 3 in. (7.5 cm) #12 wood screws. Fasten through the top of the armrest down into the support board with two more wood screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole through the armrest support and the seat frame for the eyebolt.\", \"描述\": \"The eyebolt will attach your swing chain to the swing. Then, drill through the back frame for another eyebolt for the back chain. Screw in the eyebolts, place washers over the backs (to keep the nuts from drawing into the wood frame), and tighten the nuts over the ends with a wrench.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Locate the position and height of your swing.\", \"描述\": \"Install eyebolts or eye-screws on a solid board for the overhead connection, and measure the length you will need your chains to hang your swing. You may find you need to adjust the chains to get the swing tilted back the proper amount to be comfortable for you.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Sand any edges smooth to prevent splinters or other injuries which may occur from the wood.\\n\", \"Use galvanized or coated fasteners to prevent corrosion. Galvanized fasteners are not recommended for cedar wood, however.\\n\", \"Sand out any edges that may need it to prevent children from bumping into them and injuring themselves.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Use safety precautions when operating power tools.\\n\", \"Never let small children play on this swing unattended; they may fall off, or it may swing into them.\\n\", \"Connections must be secure for safe use of the finished swing.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,477 |
How to Build a Portable Green Screen
|
1. Preparing the Materials
1-1. Cut pieces of PVC pipe.
Buy ½ inch PVC pipe from a standard hardware store, along with 8 T-joint connectors, 4 end caps, and 2 elbow joints, all in the same ½” size. Get 4 10-foot lengths and use a hacksaw or ask staff at the hardware store to cut the following pieces from them:
One 6ft 1/2″ PVC
Four 3ft 1/2″ PVC
Five 2.5ft 1/2″ PVC
Two 2ft 1/2″ PVC
Four 1ft 1/2″ PVC
Note that these lengths include enough material to brace the frame with two horizontal pieces and a small vertical piece that connects them. If you use thicker PVC pipe (like ¾” or 1”) the frame will be sturdier and you may not need this bracing.
1-2. Cut and sew fabric.
Look in any store that sells fabric for a bright green color of natural or synthetic fabric that won't wrinkle easily. Purchase at least 2-3 yards of fabric that is 48 inches wide or wider.
Note that a standard width for fabric is 48 inches, or 4 feet. If you want a green screen wider than that, look for fabric that comes in a 54" or 60” width, or sew two pieces of fabric together for an even larger size.
It’s also a good idea to iron your fabric so that it is free of wrinkles before use as a green screen. Visible wrinkles that show up on camera will interfere with the keying process that replaces the color with another image.
If you cannot find a suitable green color of fabric, you may be able to paint or dye fabric to your desired shade. However, this method may not turn out as even or consistent as a pre-dyed fabric.
1-3. Decide how you will attach the screen.
Determine how you would like to attach your green fabric to the top of the frame. Use clamps, sewing, or elastic depending on your preferences.
Get A clamps (or spring clamps) to clamp the fabric to the top of the frame. You will also use these to attach the fabric smoothly to the sides of the frame, so you can grab a few more with very little expense from a hardware store.
Try sewing a “pocket” into the top of the fabric by folding it over and sewing to create a long loop through which to slide the PVC pipe.
Use approximately 6 inch pieces of elastic band fabric, folded over to create loops large enough to fit around your PVC pipe. Then sew or staple these loops to the fabric wherever you want it to connect to your frame.
2. Building the Stand
2-1. Connect your PVC pipe.
Use your connectors to attach the pieces of PVC pipe together to create a rectangular frame with two “feet.” Build the frame as follows:
Use the two elbow connectors to attach your 6’ PVC piece to two of your 2.5’ pieces.
Use one T-joint connector on each side to attach those 2.5’ pieces to two more 2.5’ pieces (which will be vertical) and two 3’ pieces (which will be horizontal) to fill the T-joints.
Fill another T-joint connector on each side with the 2.5’ pieces you just installed, two more 3’ pieces (horizontal), and your two 2’ pieces (vertical).
Connect the horizontal 3’ pieces in the middle with two T-joints and one 2.5’ piece vertically between them.
Make the feet by connecting two 1’ pieces together with the end of your 2’ piece on either side using a T-joint. Then add end caps to the open ends of all four 1’ pieces.
2-2. Try an alternative with microphone stands.
Use microphone stands as an alternative method for an adjustable stand. You may choose this method if you already have mic stands available, if you want to use less PVC pipe, or you want the height of the frame to be more easily adjusted.
Build a simpler PVC frame of three long pieces for the top and sides of the frame. Then use two microphone stands with the extensions removed and slide the side pieces of PVC pipe over the mic stands so the frame stands upright. Adjust the height of the frame by raising the PVC higher or lower on the mic stands and placing a clamp underneath to keep in place.
Or try using just one piece of PVC pipe for the top bar of the frame, then slide either end of it into a mic stand grip. Adjust each mic stand accordingly to change the height of the screen.
Note that when using microphone stands, you may want to choose thicker PVC pipe, like 1” PVC, for sturdiness.
2-3. Keep PVC loose or glue it.
Glue your PVC frame pieces together using PVC glue if you want to make the frame more permanent. Keep the pieces unglued if you want to take the frame apart later.
Choose to glue if you’re sure you want to keep the frame intact and at the same size and structure. It can still be portable due to the very light weight of the PVC.
Choose to keep the frame unglued if you want to make it even more portable by breaking it down for easier travel or storage. Of course, this will require reassembly each time it’s used.
3. Assembling and Disassembling
3-1. Attach the screen and pull flat.
Attach your green fabric to the top bar of your frame using whatever method you choose, be it clamps, a sewed pocket, or elastic straps. Then make it taut across all sides with clamps.
If using a sewed pocket or elastic strap loops, slide them onto the top bar before connecting it to the rest of your frame.
Adjust the fabric so that it falls flat and evenly from the top of the frame. Then use as many clamps as you need to attach it to the sides (and even the bottom) of the frame to create as even, unwrinkled, and unstretched a surface as possible.
3-2. Set up in a well-lit area.
Set up your green screen frame wherever you wish to use it. The best results for video editing will come from using very even, consistent lighting for filming in front of the green screen.
Try using the green screen outdoors in overcast weather, or indoors using five individual lights: two main lights (which illuminate the subject being filmed), two fill lights (which illuminate the green screen), and a backlight (which will help distinguish the subject from the green screen for editing).
Ensure that every time you set up the green screen, the lighting or fabric itself doesn’t illuminate any creases or wrinkles that will show up when filming and affect the editing process of replacing the green color. Iron or steam the fabric if necessary to achieve a smooth surface.
3-3. Move or disassemble when done.
Easily reposition the entire frame with the fabric still attached, or undo the pieces of the frame to make it a size that’s easy to transport or store.
To avoid removing the green fabric every time, try rolling it onto the top bar of your frame before disassembling or storing. This will keep the fabric wrinkle-free as well. You can hold the fabric in place once rolled with a few pieces of tape, velcro or elastic straps, or rubber bands.
It’s helpful to take a picture or draw a quick diagram of your assembled frame before taking it apart. This will make it easier to reassemble in the same way next time you use it.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:55",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing the Materials\\n1-1. Cut pieces of PVC pipe.\\nBuy ½ inch PVC pipe from a standard hardware store, along with 8 T-joint connectors, 4 end caps, and 2 elbow joints, all in the same ½” size. Get 4 10-foot lengths and use a hacksaw or ask staff at the hardware store to cut the following pieces from them:\\nOne 6ft 1/2″ PVC\\nFour 3ft 1/2″ PVC\\nFive 2.5ft 1/2″ PVC\\nTwo 2ft 1/2″ PVC\\nFour 1ft 1/2″ PVC\\nNote that these lengths include enough material to brace the frame with two horizontal pieces and a small vertical piece that connects them. If you use thicker PVC pipe (like ¾” or 1”) the frame will be sturdier and you may not need this bracing.\\n1-2. Cut and sew fabric.\\nLook in any store that sells fabric for a bright green color of natural or synthetic fabric that won't wrinkle easily. Purchase at least 2-3 yards of fabric that is 48 inches wide or wider.\\nNote that a standard width for fabric is 48 inches, or 4 feet. If you want a green screen wider than that, look for fabric that comes in a 54\\\" or 60” width, or sew two pieces of fabric together for an even larger size.\\nIt’s also a good idea to iron your fabric so that it is free of wrinkles before use as a green screen. Visible wrinkles that show up on camera will interfere with the keying process that replaces the color with another image.\\nIf you cannot find a suitable green color of fabric, you may be able to paint or dye fabric to your desired shade. However, this method may not turn out as even or consistent as a pre-dyed fabric.\\n1-3. Decide how you will attach the screen.\\nDetermine how you would like to attach your green fabric to the top of the frame. Use clamps, sewing, or elastic depending on your preferences.\\nGet A clamps (or spring clamps) to clamp the fabric to the top of the frame. You will also use these to attach the fabric smoothly to the sides of the frame, so you can grab a few more with very little expense from a hardware store.\\nTry sewing a “pocket” into the top of the fabric by folding it over and sewing to create a long loop through which to slide the PVC pipe.\\nUse approximately 6 inch pieces of elastic band fabric, folded over to create loops large enough to fit around your PVC pipe. Then sew or staple these loops to the fabric wherever you want it to connect to your frame.\\n2. Building the Stand\\n2-1. Connect your PVC pipe.\\nUse your connectors to attach the pieces of PVC pipe together to create a rectangular frame with two “feet.” Build the frame as follows:\\nUse the two elbow connectors to attach your 6’ PVC piece to two of your 2.5’ pieces.\\nUse one T-joint connector on each side to attach those 2.5’ pieces to two more 2.5’ pieces (which will be vertical) and two 3’ pieces (which will be horizontal) to fill the T-joints.\\nFill another T-joint connector on each side with the 2.5’ pieces you just installed, two more 3’ pieces (horizontal), and your two 2’ pieces (vertical).\\nConnect the horizontal 3’ pieces in the middle with two T-joints and one 2.5’ piece vertically between them.\\nMake the feet by connecting two 1’ pieces together with the end of your 2’ piece on either side using a T-joint. Then add end caps to the open ends of all four 1’ pieces.\\n2-2. Try an alternative with microphone stands.\\nUse microphone stands as an alternative method for an adjustable stand. You may choose this method if you already have mic stands available, if you want to use less PVC pipe, or you want the height of the frame to be more easily adjusted.\\nBuild a simpler PVC frame of three long pieces for the top and sides of the frame. Then use two microphone stands with the extensions removed and slide the side pieces of PVC pipe over the mic stands so the frame stands upright. Adjust the height of the frame by raising the PVC higher or lower on the mic stands and placing a clamp underneath to keep in place.\\nOr try using just one piece of PVC pipe for the top bar of the frame, then slide either end of it into a mic stand grip. Adjust each mic stand accordingly to change the height of the screen.\\nNote that when using microphone stands, you may want to choose thicker PVC pipe, like 1” PVC, for sturdiness.\\n2-3. Keep PVC loose or glue it.\\nGlue your PVC frame pieces together using PVC glue if you want to make the frame more permanent. Keep the pieces unglued if you want to take the frame apart later.\\nChoose to glue if you’re sure you want to keep the frame intact and at the same size and structure. It can still be portable due to the very light weight of the PVC.\\nChoose to keep the frame unglued if you want to make it even more portable by breaking it down for easier travel or storage. Of course, this will require reassembly each time it’s used.\\n3. Assembling and Disassembling\\n3-1. Attach the screen and pull flat.\\nAttach your green fabric to the top bar of your frame using whatever method you choose, be it clamps, a sewed pocket, or elastic straps. Then make it taut across all sides with clamps.\\nIf using a sewed pocket or elastic strap loops, slide them onto the top bar before connecting it to the rest of your frame.\\nAdjust the fabric so that it falls flat and evenly from the top of the frame. Then use as many clamps as you need to attach it to the sides (and even the bottom) of the frame to create as even, unwrinkled, and unstretched a surface as possible.\\n3-2. Set up in a well-lit area.\\nSet up your green screen frame wherever you wish to use it. The best results for video editing will come from using very even, consistent lighting for filming in front of the green screen.\\nTry using the green screen outdoors in overcast weather, or indoors using five individual lights: two main lights (which illuminate the subject being filmed), two fill lights (which illuminate the green screen), and a backlight (which will help distinguish the subject from the green screen for editing).\\nEnsure that every time you set up the green screen, the lighting or fabric itself doesn’t illuminate any creases or wrinkles that will show up when filming and affect the editing process of replacing the green color. Iron or steam the fabric if necessary to achieve a smooth surface.\\n3-3. Move or disassemble when done.\\nEasily reposition the entire frame with the fabric still attached, or undo the pieces of the frame to make it a size that’s easy to transport or store.\\nTo avoid removing the green fabric every time, try rolling it onto the top bar of your frame before disassembling or storing. This will keep the fabric wrinkle-free as well. You can hold the fabric in place once rolled with a few pieces of tape, velcro or elastic straps, or rubber bands.\\nIt’s helpful to take a picture or draw a quick diagram of your assembled frame before taking it apart. This will make it easier to reassemble in the same way next time you use it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A green screen is a key component in both amateur and professional filmmaking that allows one to create backdrops in place of the green color in the shot. Create your own green screen setup that is easy to make and easy to transport for any of your own filmmaking projects.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut pieces of PVC pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Buy ½ inch PVC pipe from a standard hardware store, along with 8 T-joint connectors, 4 end caps, and 2 elbow joints, all in the same ½” size. Get 4 10-foot lengths and use a hacksaw or ask staff at the hardware store to cut the following pieces from them:\\nOne 6ft 1/2″ PVC\\nFour 3ft 1/2″ PVC\\nFive 2.5ft 1/2″ PVC\\nTwo 2ft 1/2″ PVC\\nFour 1ft 1/2″ PVC\\nNote that these lengths include enough material to brace the frame with two horizontal pieces and a small vertical piece that connects them. If you use thicker PVC pipe (like ¾” or 1”) the frame will be sturdier and you may not need this bracing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut and sew fabric.\", \"描述\": \"Look in any store that sells fabric for a bright green color of natural or synthetic fabric that won't wrinkle easily. Purchase at least 2-3 yards of fabric that is 48 inches wide or wider.\\nNote that a standard width for fabric is 48 inches, or 4 feet. If you want a green screen wider than that, look for fabric that comes in a 54\\\" or 60” width, or sew two pieces of fabric together for an even larger size.\\nIt’s also a good idea to iron your fabric so that it is free of wrinkles before use as a green screen. Visible wrinkles that show up on camera will interfere with the keying process that replaces the color with another image.\\nIf you cannot find a suitable green color of fabric, you may be able to paint or dye fabric to your desired shade. However, this method may not turn out as even or consistent as a pre-dyed fabric.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide how you will attach the screen.\", \"描述\": \"Determine how you would like to attach your green fabric to the top of the frame. Use clamps, sewing, or elastic depending on your preferences.\\nGet A clamps (or spring clamps) to clamp the fabric to the top of the frame. You will also use these to attach the fabric smoothly to the sides of the frame, so you can grab a few more with very little expense from a hardware store.\\nTry sewing a “pocket” into the top of the fabric by folding it over and sewing to create a long loop through which to slide the PVC pipe.\\nUse approximately 6 inch pieces of elastic band fabric, folded over to create loops large enough to fit around your PVC pipe. Then sew or staple these loops to the fabric wherever you want it to connect to your frame.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Stand\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect your PVC pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Use your connectors to attach the pieces of PVC pipe together to create a rectangular frame with two “feet.” Build the frame as follows:\\nUse the two elbow connectors to attach your 6’ PVC piece to two of your 2.5’ pieces.\\nUse one T-joint connector on each side to attach those 2.5’ pieces to two more 2.5’ pieces (which will be vertical) and two 3’ pieces (which will be horizontal) to fill the T-joints.\\nFill another T-joint connector on each side with the 2.5’ pieces you just installed, two more 3’ pieces (horizontal), and your two 2’ pieces (vertical).\\nConnect the horizontal 3’ pieces in the middle with two T-joints and one 2.5’ piece vertically between them.\\nMake the feet by connecting two 1’ pieces together with the end of your 2’ piece on either side using a T-joint. Then add end caps to the open ends of all four 1’ pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Try an alternative with microphone stands.\", \"描述\": \"Use microphone stands as an alternative method for an adjustable stand. You may choose this method if you already have mic stands available, if you want to use less PVC pipe, or you want the height of the frame to be more easily adjusted.\\nBuild a simpler PVC frame of three long pieces for the top and sides of the frame. Then use two microphone stands with the extensions removed and slide the side pieces of PVC pipe over the mic stands so the frame stands upright. Adjust the height of the frame by raising the PVC higher or lower on the mic stands and placing a clamp underneath to keep in place.\\nOr try using just one piece of PVC pipe for the top bar of the frame, then slide either end of it into a mic stand grip. Adjust each mic stand accordingly to change the height of the screen.\\nNote that when using microphone stands, you may want to choose thicker PVC pipe, like 1” PVC, for sturdiness.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep PVC loose or glue it.\", \"描述\": \"Glue your PVC frame pieces together using PVC glue if you want to make the frame more permanent. Keep the pieces unglued if you want to take the frame apart later.\\nChoose to glue if you’re sure you want to keep the frame intact and at the same size and structure. It can still be portable due to the very light weight of the PVC.\\nChoose to keep the frame unglued if you want to make it even more portable by breaking it down for easier travel or storage. Of course, this will require reassembly each time it’s used.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling and Disassembling\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach the screen and pull flat.\", \"描述\": \"Attach your green fabric to the top bar of your frame using whatever method you choose, be it clamps, a sewed pocket, or elastic straps. Then make it taut across all sides with clamps.\\nIf using a sewed pocket or elastic strap loops, slide them onto the top bar before connecting it to the rest of your frame.\\nAdjust the fabric so that it falls flat and evenly from the top of the frame. Then use as many clamps as you need to attach it to the sides (and even the bottom) of the frame to create as even, unwrinkled, and unstretched a surface as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set up in a well-lit area.\", \"描述\": \"Set up your green screen frame wherever you wish to use it. The best results for video editing will come from using very even, consistent lighting for filming in front of the green screen.\\nTry using the green screen outdoors in overcast weather, or indoors using five individual lights: two main lights (which illuminate the subject being filmed), two fill lights (which illuminate the green screen), and a backlight (which will help distinguish the subject from the green screen for editing).\\nEnsure that every time you set up the green screen, the lighting or fabric itself doesn’t illuminate any creases or wrinkles that will show up when filming and affect the editing process of replacing the green color. Iron or steam the fabric if necessary to achieve a smooth surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Move or disassemble when done.\", \"描述\": \"Easily reposition the entire frame with the fabric still attached, or undo the pieces of the frame to make it a size that’s easy to transport or store.\\nTo avoid removing the green fabric every time, try rolling it onto the top bar of your frame before disassembling or storing. This will keep the fabric wrinkle-free as well. You can hold the fabric in place once rolled with a few pieces of tape, velcro or elastic straps, or rubber bands.\\nIt’s helpful to take a picture or draw a quick diagram of your assembled frame before taking it apart. This will make it easier to reassemble in the same way next time you use it.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,478 |
How to Build a Positive Attitude
|
1. Understanding the Importance of a Positive Attitude
1-1. Understand that a positive attitude will reduce negative emotions.
Having a positive attitude will help you experience plenty of positive emotions. These are moments when you’re not bogged down by negative emotions. A positive attitude can help you find more fulfillment and enjoyment in life. It can also help you recover from negative experiences more quickly.
1-2. Recognize the link between positive emotions and physical health.
Research suggests that stress and other negative emotions can contribute to health issues such as coronary heart disease. Replacing negative emotions with positive ones can improve your overall well-being.
Positive emotions can also slow progression toward disease. This happens because positive emotions shorten the duration of negative emotional arousal.
1-3. Link positivity, creativity and attention.
In addition to physical benefits, a positive attitude produces a “broad, flexible cognitive organization and ability to integrate diverse material.” <These effects are linked to increases in neural dopamine levels, which improve your attention, creativity, and ability to learn. Positive emotions also improve a person’s ability to cope with difficult situations.
1-4. Recover from negative life events more quickly.
Building and maintaining a positive attitude can help you be more resilient to negative life events such as trauma and loss.
People who experience positive emotions during bereavement tend to develop healthy long-term plans. Having goals and plans may result in an overall better sense of well-being about a year after bereavement.
In an experiment on emotional resilience and stress responses, participants were given a stressful task to complete. The results showed that all participants were anxious about the task, regardless of how naturally resilient they were. But the more resilient participants returned to a calmer state more quickly than the participants who were not as resilient.
2. Taking Time for Self-Reflection
2-1. Recognize that change takes time.
Think of building a positive attitude in the same way that you think of building strength or developing fitness. It’s an endeavor that takes consistent effort.
2-2. Identify and nurture your strongest qualities.
Focus on your strengths to help create more positive emotional experiences. In turn, this will make handling adversity easier.
Make a list of things you enjoy doing or things you’re good at. Try to do some of these things regularly. This will build up your reserve of positive experiences.
2-3. Write in a journal.
Studies show that self-reflection can be an effective learning and teaching tool in school and work settings. Self-reflection can be used to help develop a positive attitude as well. Writing down your feelings and thoughts can help you recognize your behaviors and responses.
At first, it might seem strange or awkward to write self-reflections. But with time and practice, you’ll recognize some behavior and emotional patterns in your writing. This will help you target areas that may be blocking you from your goals.
2-4. Write about positive things in your day.
Review the day and find positive things about it. These can include things that made you happy, proud, awestruck, grateful, calm, content, pleased, or any other positive emotion.
For example, recall your morning routine, and spend time noticing the moments you felt peaceful or happy. This might include a beautiful view along your morning commute, or the pleasure of your first sip of coffee, or an enjoyable conversation you had.
Take special time to focus on moments where you felt proud of yourself or grateful to someone else. These can be small things, such as gratitude for your partner making the bed. You might also take pride in the way you accomplished a task or completed a challenge you set for yourself.
You may find it helpful to start your reflections with the positive moments of your day. Re-experiencing positive emotions can help you adjust your perspective on the negative moments.
2-5. Write about moments when you had negative emotions.
Identify moments in your day when you experienced negative emotions. These might include guilt, shame, embarrassment, frustration, disappointment, fear, or disgust. Do any of these thoughts seem extreme? Perhaps you are mortified for spilling coffee on your boss. Do you think that you’ll be fired because of the incident and you’ll never be able to find a job again? Extreme reactions to everyday occurrences can block more positive, productive thinking.
2-6. Reframe negative moments as positive ones
Look over your list of negative moments. Spend time reframing these moments in a way where you can get positive (or at least neutral) emotions out of these experiences.
For example, if you experienced road rage on your drive home, reframe the other driver’s intentions as making an honest mistake. If you felt embarrassed about something that happened during the day, think about how it was actually a silly or laughable situation. Even if your boss was upset about having coffee spilled on him, mistakes happen from time to time. With any luck, maybe your boss will see the humor in it also.
If you don’t treat smaller mistakes as life-altering experiences, you will be able to handle situations better. One way to handle the coffee situation is to express your genuine concern that your boss is first and foremost okay and that you didn’t burn him. Next, you can offer to go buy him another shirt on your lunch hour, or offer to dry-clean the stained one.
2-7. Draw on your “happiness reserves.”
Enhanced coping skills lead to increased positive emotions over time. The benefits you receive from experiencing positive emotions are durable. They last far longer than the amount of time you experience happiness. You can draw on these “happiness reserves” at later moments and different emotional states.
Don’t worry if you feel you’re having trouble building positive emotional experiences. You can also use the memories you already have to build your “happiness reserves.”
2-8. Remember that everyone experiences life issues.
It’s important to remember that everyone goes through both little and huge life issues, so you’re not alone. Reframing your extreme reactions does take practice, as well as time to adjust and accept. But with practice, it is possible that you can let go of little things. You’ll be able to look at the larger issues with a level head and see them as opportunities to learn.
2-9. Tame your inner critic.
Your “inner critic” can hurt your progress in building a positive attitude.
For example, perhaps your inner critic called you a dummy for spilling coffee on your boss. Your inner critic puts you down all the time and is nasty to you. Reflect on the times your inner critic says things like this. You will gain more insight into the times and situations when your inner critic comes out.
Also, you can start to challenge the inner critic and other negative ways of thinking. This is an important part of building a positive attitude.
3. Taking Time for Yourself
3-1. Do things you enjoy.
Take time for yourself by doing things you enjoy or that make you happy. It can be hard to take time for yourself, especially if you’re someone who tends to put other people first. It might also be challenging if you have a life situation such as having small children at home or taking care of someone who is ill. But always remember to “secure your own oxygen mask before assisting others.” You are the best caretaker when you are your best self.
If music makes you happy, listen to music. If reading books makes you happy, take a little time to read in a calm environment. Go look at a beautiful view, take yourself to a museum, or watch a movie that you enjoy.
Stay active doing the things that bring you pleasure. This is a great way to focus on the positive.
3-2. Take time to think about moments of satisfaction.
No one else is watching or judging your review of your day and yourself, so there’s no need to worry about seeming arrogant. You don’t have to be good at something or please others in order to enjoy it.
If you’re good at cooking, admit to yourself that you’re a talented cook. Likewise, you don’t need to be able to charm woodland creatures in order to enjoy singing.
Observing moments of satisfaction, pride, contentment or joy in your life and the activities that cause them is a good way to make sure you can repeat them again in the future.
3-3. Worry less about others.
You are not like other people, so there’s little reason to judge yourself based on other people’s standards. You may enjoy things that other people don’t enjoy. You are certainly “allowed” to define for yourself what success means for your life.
3-4. Avoid comparing yourself to other people.
Your view of yourself is very different from your view of other people, just as viewing a Monet painting from one foot away is very different from viewing it from twenty feet away. Realize that the image of someone else that you see may be a contrived image that he or she strives to project. This image may only partially reflect reality. Let go of measuring yourself against other people and basing your self-worth on other people’s opinions. This will help you make less subjective inferences about other people’s behavior.
For example, if you have a negative interaction with a casual acquaintance, don’t assume that they don’t like you. Rather, assume that there was a miscommunication between the two of you, or that something else is frustrating your acquaintance.
4. Cultivating Relationships
4-1. Maintain healthy relationships.
Relationships are an important part of the human experience, even if you classify yourself as an “introvert,” or someone who recharges by being alone and doesn’t feel the need for a large number of friends. Friendships and relationships are a source of support, validation and strength for all genders and personalities. Maintain the healthy relationships in your life with family members and friends.
Research demonstrates that your mood can immediately improve after having a conversation with someone you care about and you receive a supportive response from them.
4-2. Form new relationships.
As you meet new people, identify the ones who make you feel good to be around. Cultivate relationships with them. These people will add to your support network and help you continue building a positive attitude.
4-3. Talk about your emotions with a friend.
If you find yourself having difficulty creating positive emotional experiences on your own, turn to a friend for support. You shouldn’t feel like you have to bury your negative emotions. Instead, talking them through with a friend helps you resolve them and make room for happier emotions.
5. Handling Stressful Situations
5-1. Put a positive spin on a stressful circumstance.
Positively reappraising a stressful circumstance means taking that situation and putting a new spin on it.
For example, if you have a daunting to-do list, rather than looking at your list and saying, “There’s no way I can get all of this done,” try saying, “I can accomplish most of this.”
5-2. Try problem-focused coping.
Problem-focused coping is where you focus on the problem that is causing you stress and work out its solution. Break down the problem into steps that will allow you to accomplish it. Identify potential hurdles or stumbling blocks and decide how you will deal with them as they arise.
For instance, if you are having trouble getting a team of coworkers to work well together, sit down first and analyze the situation. Identify the types of situations going on. Then brainstorm and write down possible solutions for these problems.
For example, Jeff doesn’t like Sally, and your employer doesn’t encourage teamwork and instead rewards the efforts of the individual. Using problem-focused coping, you should assert that, while Jeff and Sally are allowed to not like each other, a standard of professional conduct is expected and reinforce those standards. Then do a group exercise where everyone says three positive things about each other.
In connecting team members and completing projects with resounding success, your team can serve as an example to help change the culture in your company.
5-3. Find positive meaning in ordinary events.
Another way people experience positive emotions in the face of adversity is by finding positive meaning in ordinary events and within the adversity itself.
Remember that when you practice putting a positive spin on a negative situation, you will be able to do it more easily and naturally. In turn, you will find it easier to put positive spins on negative situations, making your whole life happier and more enjoyable.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:55",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Understanding the Importance of a Positive Attitude\\n1-1. Understand that a positive attitude will reduce negative emotions.\\nHaving a positive attitude will help you experience plenty of positive emotions. These are moments when you’re not bogged down by negative emotions. A positive attitude can help you find more fulfillment and enjoyment in life. It can also help you recover from negative experiences more quickly.\\n1-2. Recognize the link between positive emotions and physical health.\\nResearch suggests that stress and other negative emotions can contribute to health issues such as coronary heart disease. Replacing negative emotions with positive ones can improve your overall well-being.\\nPositive emotions can also slow progression toward disease. This happens because positive emotions shorten the duration of negative emotional arousal.\\n1-3. Link positivity, creativity and attention.\\nIn addition to physical benefits, a positive attitude produces a “broad, flexible cognitive organization and ability to integrate diverse material.” <These effects are linked to increases in neural dopamine levels, which improve your attention, creativity, and ability to learn. Positive emotions also improve a person’s ability to cope with difficult situations.\\n1-4. Recover from negative life events more quickly.\\nBuilding and maintaining a positive attitude can help you be more resilient to negative life events such as trauma and loss.\\nPeople who experience positive emotions during bereavement tend to develop healthy long-term plans. Having goals and plans may result in an overall better sense of well-being about a year after bereavement.\\nIn an experiment on emotional resilience and stress responses, participants were given a stressful task to complete. The results showed that all participants were anxious about the task, regardless of how naturally resilient they were. But the more resilient participants returned to a calmer state more quickly than the participants who were not as resilient.\\n2. Taking Time for Self-Reflection\\n2-1. Recognize that change takes time.\\nThink of building a positive attitude in the same way that you think of building strength or developing fitness. It’s an endeavor that takes consistent effort.\\n2-2. Identify and nurture your strongest qualities.\\nFocus on your strengths to help create more positive emotional experiences. In turn, this will make handling adversity easier.\\nMake a list of things you enjoy doing or things you’re good at. Try to do some of these things regularly. This will build up your reserve of positive experiences.\\n2-3. Write in a journal.\\nStudies show that self-reflection can be an effective learning and teaching tool in school and work settings. Self-reflection can be used to help develop a positive attitude as well. Writing down your feelings and thoughts can help you recognize your behaviors and responses.\\nAt first, it might seem strange or awkward to write self-reflections. But with time and practice, you’ll recognize some behavior and emotional patterns in your writing. This will help you target areas that may be blocking you from your goals.\\n2-4. Write about positive things in your day.\\nReview the day and find positive things about it. These can include things that made you happy, proud, awestruck, grateful, calm, content, pleased, or any other positive emotion.\\nFor example, recall your morning routine, and spend time noticing the moments you felt peaceful or happy. This might include a beautiful view along your morning commute, or the pleasure of your first sip of coffee, or an enjoyable conversation you had.\\nTake special time to focus on moments where you felt proud of yourself or grateful to someone else. These can be small things, such as gratitude for your partner making the bed. You might also take pride in the way you accomplished a task or completed a challenge you set for yourself.\\nYou may find it helpful to start your reflections with the positive moments of your day. Re-experiencing positive emotions can help you adjust your perspective on the negative moments.\\n2-5. Write about moments when you had negative emotions.\\nIdentify moments in your day when you experienced negative emotions. These might include guilt, shame, embarrassment, frustration, disappointment, fear, or disgust. Do any of these thoughts seem extreme? Perhaps you are mortified for spilling coffee on your boss. Do you think that you’ll be fired because of the incident and you’ll never be able to find a job again? Extreme reactions to everyday occurrences can block more positive, productive thinking.\\n2-6. Reframe negative moments as positive ones\\nLook over your list of negative moments. Spend time reframing these moments in a way where you can get positive (or at least neutral) emotions out of these experiences.\\nFor example, if you experienced road rage on your drive home, reframe the other driver’s intentions as making an honest mistake. If you felt embarrassed about something that happened during the day, think about how it was actually a silly or laughable situation. Even if your boss was upset about having coffee spilled on him, mistakes happen from time to time. With any luck, maybe your boss will see the humor in it also.\\nIf you don’t treat smaller mistakes as life-altering experiences, you will be able to handle situations better. One way to handle the coffee situation is to express your genuine concern that your boss is first and foremost okay and that you didn’t burn him. Next, you can offer to go buy him another shirt on your lunch hour, or offer to dry-clean the stained one.\\n2-7. Draw on your “happiness reserves.”\\nEnhanced coping skills lead to increased positive emotions over time. The benefits you receive from experiencing positive emotions are durable. They last far longer than the amount of time you experience happiness. You can draw on these “happiness reserves” at later moments and different emotional states.\\nDon’t worry if you feel you’re having trouble building positive emotional experiences. You can also use the memories you already have to build your “happiness reserves.”\\n2-8. Remember that everyone experiences life issues.\\nIt’s important to remember that everyone goes through both little and huge life issues, so you’re not alone. Reframing your extreme reactions does take practice, as well as time to adjust and accept. But with practice, it is possible that you can let go of little things. You’ll be able to look at the larger issues with a level head and see them as opportunities to learn.\\n2-9. Tame your inner critic.\\nYour “inner critic” can hurt your progress in building a positive attitude.\\nFor example, perhaps your inner critic called you a dummy for spilling coffee on your boss. Your inner critic puts you down all the time and is nasty to you. Reflect on the times your inner critic says things like this. You will gain more insight into the times and situations when your inner critic comes out.\\nAlso, you can start to challenge the inner critic and other negative ways of thinking. This is an important part of building a positive attitude.\\n3. Taking Time for Yourself\\n3-1. Do things you enjoy.\\nTake time for yourself by doing things you enjoy or that make you happy. It can be hard to take time for yourself, especially if you’re someone who tends to put other people first. It might also be challenging if you have a life situation such as having small children at home or taking care of someone who is ill. But always remember to “secure your own oxygen mask before assisting others.” You are the best caretaker when you are your best self.\\nIf music makes you happy, listen to music. If reading books makes you happy, take a little time to read in a calm environment. Go look at a beautiful view, take yourself to a museum, or watch a movie that you enjoy.\\nStay active doing the things that bring you pleasure. This is a great way to focus on the positive.\\n3-2. Take time to think about moments of satisfaction.\\nNo one else is watching or judging your review of your day and yourself, so there’s no need to worry about seeming arrogant. You don’t have to be good at something or please others in order to enjoy it.\\nIf you’re good at cooking, admit to yourself that you’re a talented cook. Likewise, you don’t need to be able to charm woodland creatures in order to enjoy singing.\\nObserving moments of satisfaction, pride, contentment or joy in your life and the activities that cause them is a good way to make sure you can repeat them again in the future.\\n3-3. Worry less about others.\\nYou are not like other people, so there’s little reason to judge yourself based on other people’s standards. You may enjoy things that other people don’t enjoy. You are certainly “allowed” to define for yourself what success means for your life.\\n3-4. Avoid comparing yourself to other people.\\nYour view of yourself is very different from your view of other people, just as viewing a Monet painting from one foot away is very different from viewing it from twenty feet away. Realize that the image of someone else that you see may be a contrived image that he or she strives to project. This image may only partially reflect reality. Let go of measuring yourself against other people and basing your self-worth on other people’s opinions. This will help you make less subjective inferences about other people’s behavior.\\nFor example, if you have a negative interaction with a casual acquaintance, don’t assume that they don’t like you. Rather, assume that there was a miscommunication between the two of you, or that something else is frustrating your acquaintance.\\n4. Cultivating Relationships\\n4-1. Maintain healthy relationships.\\nRelationships are an important part of the human experience, even if you classify yourself as an “introvert,” or someone who recharges by being alone and doesn’t feel the need for a large number of friends. Friendships and relationships are a source of support, validation and strength for all genders and personalities. Maintain the healthy relationships in your life with family members and friends.\\nResearch demonstrates that your mood can immediately improve after having a conversation with someone you care about and you receive a supportive response from them.\\n4-2. Form new relationships.\\nAs you meet new people, identify the ones who make you feel good to be around. Cultivate relationships with them. These people will add to your support network and help you continue building a positive attitude.\\n4-3. Talk about your emotions with a friend.\\nIf you find yourself having difficulty creating positive emotional experiences on your own, turn to a friend for support. You shouldn’t feel like you have to bury your negative emotions. Instead, talking them through with a friend helps you resolve them and make room for happier emotions.\\n5. Handling Stressful Situations\\n5-1. Put a positive spin on a stressful circumstance.\\nPositively reappraising a stressful circumstance means taking that situation and putting a new spin on it.\\nFor example, if you have a daunting to-do list, rather than looking at your list and saying, “There’s no way I can get all of this done,” try saying, “I can accomplish most of this.”\\n5-2. Try problem-focused coping.\\nProblem-focused coping is where you focus on the problem that is causing you stress and work out its solution. Break down the problem into steps that will allow you to accomplish it. Identify potential hurdles or stumbling blocks and decide how you will deal with them as they arise.\\nFor instance, if you are having trouble getting a team of coworkers to work well together, sit down first and analyze the situation. Identify the types of situations going on. Then brainstorm and write down possible solutions for these problems.\\nFor example, Jeff doesn’t like Sally, and your employer doesn’t encourage teamwork and instead rewards the efforts of the individual. Using problem-focused coping, you should assert that, while Jeff and Sally are allowed to not like each other, a standard of professional conduct is expected and reinforce those standards. Then do a group exercise where everyone says three positive things about each other.\\nIn connecting team members and completing projects with resounding success, your team can serve as an example to help change the culture in your company.\\n5-3. Find positive meaning in ordinary events.\\nAnother way people experience positive emotions in the face of adversity is by finding positive meaning in ordinary events and within the adversity itself.\\nRemember that when you practice putting a positive spin on a negative situation, you will be able to do it more easily and naturally. In turn, you will find it easier to put positive spins on negative situations, making your whole life happier and more enjoyable.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A positive attitude is important for ensuring that you have a fulfilling and enjoyable life. Building a positive attitude will make it easier for you to recognize and reflect on positive emotions as you experience them. You will also start reframing negative emotions in the moment that they begin to occur. Taking time for yourself and cultivating relationships are important components of building a positive attitude.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understanding the Importance of a Positive Attitude\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand that a positive attitude will reduce negative emotions.\", \"描述\": \"Having a positive attitude will help you experience plenty of positive emotions. These are moments when you’re not bogged down by negative emotions. A positive attitude can help you find more fulfillment and enjoyment in life. It can also help you recover from negative experiences more quickly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Recognize the link between positive emotions and physical health.\", \"描述\": \"Research suggests that stress and other negative emotions can contribute to health issues such as coronary heart disease. Replacing negative emotions with positive ones can improve your overall well-being.\\nPositive emotions can also slow progression toward disease. This happens because positive emotions shorten the duration of negative emotional arousal.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Link positivity, creativity and attention.\", \"描述\": \"In addition to physical benefits, a positive attitude produces a “broad, flexible cognitive organization and ability to integrate diverse material.” <These effects are linked to increases in neural dopamine levels, which improve your attention, creativity, and ability to learn. Positive emotions also improve a person’s ability to cope with difficult situations.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Recover from negative life events more quickly.\", \"描述\": \"Building and maintaining a positive attitude can help you be more resilient to negative life events such as trauma and loss.\\nPeople who experience positive emotions during bereavement tend to develop healthy long-term plans. Having goals and plans may result in an overall better sense of well-being about a year after bereavement.\\nIn an experiment on emotional resilience and stress responses, participants were given a stressful task to complete. The results showed that all participants were anxious about the task, regardless of how naturally resilient they were. But the more resilient participants returned to a calmer state more quickly than the participants who were not as resilient.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Taking Time for Self-Reflection\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Recognize that change takes time.\", \"描述\": \"Think of building a positive attitude in the same way that you think of building strength or developing fitness. It’s an endeavor that takes consistent effort.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Identify and nurture your strongest qualities.\", \"描述\": \"Focus on your strengths to help create more positive emotional experiences. In turn, this will make handling adversity easier.\\nMake a list of things you enjoy doing or things you’re good at. Try to do some of these things regularly. This will build up your reserve of positive experiences.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Write in a journal.\", \"描述\": \"Studies show that self-reflection can be an effective learning and teaching tool in school and work settings. Self-reflection can be used to help develop a positive attitude as well. Writing down your feelings and thoughts can help you recognize your behaviors and responses.\\nAt first, it might seem strange or awkward to write self-reflections. But with time and practice, you’ll recognize some behavior and emotional patterns in your writing. This will help you target areas that may be blocking you from your goals.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Write about positive things in your day.\", \"描述\": \"Review the day and find positive things about it. These can include things that made you happy, proud, awestruck, grateful, calm, content, pleased, or any other positive emotion.\\nFor example, recall your morning routine, and spend time noticing the moments you felt peaceful or happy. This might include a beautiful view along your morning commute, or the pleasure of your first sip of coffee, or an enjoyable conversation you had.\\nTake special time to focus on moments where you felt proud of yourself or grateful to someone else. These can be small things, such as gratitude for your partner making the bed. You might also take pride in the way you accomplished a task or completed a challenge you set for yourself.\\nYou may find it helpful to start your reflections with the positive moments of your day. Re-experiencing positive emotions can help you adjust your perspective on the negative moments.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Write about moments when you had negative emotions.\", \"描述\": \"Identify moments in your day when you experienced negative emotions. These might include guilt, shame, embarrassment, frustration, disappointment, fear, or disgust. Do any of these thoughts seem extreme? Perhaps you are mortified for spilling coffee on your boss. Do you think that you’ll be fired because of the incident and you’ll never be able to find a job again? Extreme reactions to everyday occurrences can block more positive, productive thinking.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Reframe negative moments as positive ones\", \"描述\": \"Look over your list of negative moments. Spend time reframing these moments in a way where you can get positive (or at least neutral) emotions out of these experiences.\\nFor example, if you experienced road rage on your drive home, reframe the other driver’s intentions as making an honest mistake. If you felt embarrassed about something that happened during the day, think about how it was actually a silly or laughable situation. Even if your boss was upset about having coffee spilled on him, mistakes happen from time to time. With any luck, maybe your boss will see the humor in it also.\\nIf you don’t treat smaller mistakes as life-altering experiences, you will be able to handle situations better. One way to handle the coffee situation is to express your genuine concern that your boss is first and foremost okay and that you didn’t burn him. Next, you can offer to go buy him another shirt on your lunch hour, or offer to dry-clean the stained one.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Draw on your “happiness reserves.”\", \"描述\": \"Enhanced coping skills lead to increased positive emotions over time. The benefits you receive from experiencing positive emotions are durable. They last far longer than the amount of time you experience happiness. You can draw on these “happiness reserves” at later moments and different emotional states.\\nDon’t worry if you feel you’re having trouble building positive emotional experiences. You can also use the memories you already have to build your “happiness reserves.”\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Remember that everyone experiences life issues.\", \"描述\": \"It’s important to remember that everyone goes through both little and huge life issues, so you’re not alone. Reframing your extreme reactions does take practice, as well as time to adjust and accept. But with practice, it is possible that you can let go of little things. You’ll be able to look at the larger issues with a level head and see them as opportunities to learn.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Tame your inner critic.\", \"描述\": \"Your “inner critic” can hurt your progress in building a positive attitude.\\nFor example, perhaps your inner critic called you a dummy for spilling coffee on your boss. Your inner critic puts you down all the time and is nasty to you. Reflect on the times your inner critic says things like this. You will gain more insight into the times and situations when your inner critic comes out.\\nAlso, you can start to challenge the inner critic and other negative ways of thinking. This is an important part of building a positive attitude.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Taking Time for Yourself\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Do things you enjoy.\", \"描述\": \"Take time for yourself by doing things you enjoy or that make you happy. It can be hard to take time for yourself, especially if you’re someone who tends to put other people first. It might also be challenging if you have a life situation such as having small children at home or taking care of someone who is ill. But always remember to “secure your own oxygen mask before assisting others.” You are the best caretaker when you are your best self.\\nIf music makes you happy, listen to music. If reading books makes you happy, take a little time to read in a calm environment. Go look at a beautiful view, take yourself to a museum, or watch a movie that you enjoy.\\nStay active doing the things that bring you pleasure. This is a great way to focus on the positive.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take time to think about moments of satisfaction.\", \"描述\": \"No one else is watching or judging your review of your day and yourself, so there’s no need to worry about seeming arrogant. You don’t have to be good at something or please others in order to enjoy it.\\nIf you’re good at cooking, admit to yourself that you’re a talented cook. Likewise, you don’t need to be able to charm woodland creatures in order to enjoy singing.\\nObserving moments of satisfaction, pride, contentment or joy in your life and the activities that cause them is a good way to make sure you can repeat them again in the future.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Worry less about others.\", \"描述\": \"You are not like other people, so there’s little reason to judge yourself based on other people’s standards. You may enjoy things that other people don’t enjoy. You are certainly “allowed” to define for yourself what success means for your life.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Avoid comparing yourself to other people.\", \"描述\": \"Your view of yourself is very different from your view of other people, just as viewing a Monet painting from one foot away is very different from viewing it from twenty feet away. Realize that the image of someone else that you see may be a contrived image that he or she strives to project. This image may only partially reflect reality. Let go of measuring yourself against other people and basing your self-worth on other people’s opinions. This will help you make less subjective inferences about other people’s behavior.\\nFor example, if you have a negative interaction with a casual acquaintance, don’t assume that they don’t like you. Rather, assume that there was a miscommunication between the two of you, or that something else is frustrating your acquaintance.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cultivating Relationships\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Maintain healthy relationships.\", \"描述\": \"Relationships are an important part of the human experience, even if you classify yourself as an “introvert,” or someone who recharges by being alone and doesn’t feel the need for a large number of friends. Friendships and relationships are a source of support, validation and strength for all genders and personalities. Maintain the healthy relationships in your life with family members and friends.\\nResearch demonstrates that your mood can immediately improve after having a conversation with someone you care about and you receive a supportive response from them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Form new relationships.\", \"描述\": \"As you meet new people, identify the ones who make you feel good to be around. Cultivate relationships with them. These people will add to your support network and help you continue building a positive attitude.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Talk about your emotions with a friend.\", \"描述\": \"If you find yourself having difficulty creating positive emotional experiences on your own, turn to a friend for support. You shouldn’t feel like you have to bury your negative emotions. Instead, talking them through with a friend helps you resolve them and make room for happier emotions.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Handling Stressful Situations\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put a positive spin on a stressful circumstance.\", \"描述\": \"Positively reappraising a stressful circumstance means taking that situation and putting a new spin on it.\\nFor example, if you have a daunting to-do list, rather than looking at your list and saying, “There’s no way I can get all of this done,” try saying, “I can accomplish most of this.”\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Try problem-focused coping.\", \"描述\": \"Problem-focused coping is where you focus on the problem that is causing you stress and work out its solution. Break down the problem into steps that will allow you to accomplish it. Identify potential hurdles or stumbling blocks and decide how you will deal with them as they arise.\\nFor instance, if you are having trouble getting a team of coworkers to work well together, sit down first and analyze the situation. Identify the types of situations going on. Then brainstorm and write down possible solutions for these problems.\\nFor example, Jeff doesn’t like Sally, and your employer doesn’t encourage teamwork and instead rewards the efforts of the individual. Using problem-focused coping, you should assert that, while Jeff and Sally are allowed to not like each other, a standard of professional conduct is expected and reinforce those standards. Then do a group exercise where everyone says three positive things about each other.\\nIn connecting team members and completing projects with resounding success, your team can serve as an example to help change the culture in your company.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find positive meaning in ordinary events.\", \"描述\": \"Another way people experience positive emotions in the face of adversity is by finding positive meaning in ordinary events and within the adversity itself.\\nRemember that when you practice putting a positive spin on a negative situation, you will be able to do it more easily and naturally. In turn, you will find it easier to put positive spins on negative situations, making your whole life happier and more enjoyable.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,479 |
How to Build a Positive Thinking Mindset
|
1. Benefits of Positive Thinking
1-1. A positive mindset can improve your physical health.
Optimism is linked to lowering your stress levels, which can result in benefits such as:
A greater life span
A stronger immunity to illnesses and infections
A reduced risk of cardiovascular disease
Lower levels of physical pain
Better overall heart health
1-2. Positive thinking can support your mental health.
A commitment to an upbeat attitude and hopeful thought patterns can strengthen your psychological wellbeing. Some outcomes you may notice are:
Increased emotional resilience
Greater self-awareness
Enhanced ability to regulate your moods
Higher levels of "feel-good" chemicals, like endorphins and dopamine
1-3. A positive attitude can enhance your relationships.
When you're dedicated to cultivating thankfulness, people will definitely see that. As you praise others and bring optimism to any social situation, you may experience:
Greater levels of gratitude
Improved communication with friends
A larger support network
Enhanced romantic relationships
More warmth and emotional intimacy in your connections
1-4. Positive self-talk can lead to greater success in your career.
When you believe in your abilities and acknowledge your talents, then you're more likely to excel professionally. With positive thought patterns, you might:
Receive more respect from your colleagues
Stand out in performance reviews
Boost productivity in your teams
Solve problems more creatively and effectively
2. Improving Your Outlook
2-1. Get a positive mood ASAP with a fun morning ritual.
Open up the curtains to let in some sunlight, turn on upbeat music, and do some morning stretches. Eat a tasty, nourishing breakfast and start a task that makes you smile, like listening to guided meditation or writing down a positive affirmation.
Fun routines brighten your day and help you look forward to waking up.
Light exercise stimulates your brain so you feel ready to take on your day.
Meditating and writing affirmations will promote creative thinking.
2-2. Search for highlights in your day to cultivate a positive mindset.
While you take care of errands or go about your routines, pay attention to any positive details that stand out. For example, look for the beauty in your surroundings or the kindness of strangers. You'll see that there are always special moments to embrace:
"This rose garden is so stunning."
"The weather is perfect for a long walk."
"It's sweet that she gave water to the dog that's tied to the pole."
"Jamie sent such a funny meme! She always makes me laugh."
"My professor has the most interesting lectures."
2-3. Surround yourself with positive people to build your optimism.
Find friends who focus on what they’re happy about. As these inspiring individuals celebrate what they’re grateful for, you’ll find it a lot easier to count all your blessings and acknowledge what life has to offer.
Build a network of people who approach life with lots of positivity. Spend less time with those who bring you down.
2-4. Practice gratitude for family and friends so you're always thankful.
When you give others your full attention and plenty of compliments, you help them feel more positive. These words of affirmation will allow you to see the good in everyone, including yourself. Praise people to model kindness and improve your own positive self-talk.
Help someone feel good about themselves by recognizing them and pointing out their talents. For example, say, "You're an incredible singer!"
Being nice to others is associated with positive outcomes for your family, health and career, which will help build your positive-thinking mindset.
2-5. Help others and you'll be happy about making a difference.
Write down the ways that you have helped someone else and contributed to their wellbeing. This activity proves you’ve make a strong impact on your community, so you'll be positive about what you're capable of.
Support everyone you can, including friends, family members, and strangers. Providing assistance to others will help you feel like you have the power to improve people's circumstances.
2-6. Join a social group to feel valued and included.
Belonging to a social group helps a build a positive outlook because you'll see how much you matter to others. Bond with others and chat about common interests—the sense of community will reassure you that you always have people to turn to.
For example, gathering with people who share your same religious affiliation can cultivate a positive mindset. You may get a sense of comfort that they share your same spiritual beliefs and values.
2-7. Celebrate life by finding the humor in it.
Look for all the ways that you can have fun and laugh. Tell silly jokes, watch funny movies or shows, and attend comedy shows. Swap memes with your friends and share witty observations. Play around with others by relaxing and talking about what's ridiculous, interesting, or unusual.
Prioritize activities that put you in a playful mood, such as games. The more you take time for these hobbies, the more you'll cultivate a fun-loving attitude and easily crack jokes.
2-8. Take time to relax and uplift your mood.
To combat stress, fatigue, or frustrations, set aside moments to unwind. Try out activities that calm you, like reading a book, watching a show, or chatting with a friend. Use mindfulness routines, like yoga or deep breathing, to take care of your body and regulate your mood.
When you calm yourself down, you eliminate your "fight or flight" response so your stress hormones aren't activated. It'll be easier to stay in a positive state of mind because you feel less anxious or worried.
2-9. Boost your self-esteem by working on activities you’re good at.
Whenever you feel a little unsure of yourself, throw yourself into a hobby or activity you excel at. As you notice how skilled you are, your mindset will shift and you’ll feel positively about yourself.
For example, if you like knitting, take a break and work on a knitting project. You will get positive energy from this activity because you can see your progress. This positive energy will then influence how you feel about your other projects.
3. Challenging Negative Thoughts
3-1. Keep a thought journal to track negative beliefs you need to change.
If you have trouble identifying your negative thoughts, start a thought journal. Write down the way that you perceive yourself and record all of your opinions. Reflect on your notes to learn about where you may need to bring more positivity to your life.
A thought journal helps you pay attention to the critical voice in your head and reflect on what it’s telling you.
For example, if you write, “I feel powerless at work," then you’ll realize you need a healthier outlook about your career.
3-2. Use positive self-talk to quiet your inner critic.
When you hear a negative voice in your head or write a critical remark in your thought journal, take a pause and substitute it for an upbeat and optimistic comment. Check out these swaps for inspiration:
Negative: “I never have any energy.” : “I'll improve my nutrition so I’m vibrant and active.”
Negative: “I overreact to everything.” : “I have a ton of empathy, kindness, and compassion.”
Negative: “My friends never talk to me.” : “I’ll reach out to people I trust so I can have a fulfilling social life.”
Negative: “My boss is too strict and stresses me out.” : “This is a tough job and he’s doing the best he can.”
3-3. Point out the positive outcomes from life’s challenges.
Keep moving forward and avoid focusing on how difficult life can be. If you encounter an obstacle, think of it as an opportunity for adventure or creativity. Visualize your future and how you'll improve every time you overcome a stressful situation:
"It's hard to be laid off, but now I can spend valuable time with my children."
"Even though I don't have a car, I can work on my poetry while I ride the bus."
"While money is tight, I can work on DIY projects and handmade gifts."
3-4. Keep a gratitude journal to avoid focusing on problems.
Express what you're appreciative about in a journal, letter, or word doc. When you work on your gratitude journal, be as descriptive as you can and explain exactly why you're grateful for specific people or moments. Take part in this activity 1-2 times a day.
Research shows that a gratitude journal is more effective when the person writes about a handful of instances in depth, rather than as a quick laundry list. As you journal, spend a few minutes reliving and savoring these moments.
The gratitude journal will preserve memories that can make you smile later.
3-5. Choose to react positively to feel empowered by your actions.
Maintain an upbeat attitude, even in a frustrating situation. Focus on how much you’ll benefit from calmness and friendliness. For example, you may impress people with your patience and charisma. Whenever you’re stressed, react with grace and good energy.
Transform your insecurities into opportunities to take care of yourself. For example, if you’re unhappy with your level of fatigue, redirect your focus to how exciting it’ll be to prioritize your health.
Work on what you can control. For instance, turn on fun music in heavy traffic or start conversations with customers during a slow day.
3-6. Practice positive imagery to combat self-doubt or insecurities.
Picture yourself as confident and capable. As you imagine this version of yourself, think about a motivating and positive affirmation like, “I can finish this project. I will ask for a little help and it will get done.”
When you strive to be confident, you’re more likely to tackle tasks with a great attitude and a lot of focus. Then, you’ll eventually accomplish your goals.
3-7. Maintain a healthy lifestyle to boost your energy and resilience.
Eat nutrient-rich foods to give yourself the right fuel. Since negative moods have been linked to dehydration, drink lots of water throughout the day. Exercise for 20-30 minutes at least 3 times a week and get 7-8 hours of sleep every night so your body can function at its best.
Eat foods rich in vitamins that are known for their mood-boosting qualities. These include selenium, which is found in grains, beans, seafood and lean meats; omega-3 fatty acids, such as those in as walnuts; and folate, which is in leafy greens.
As you exercise, your body releases endorphins, which are chemicals that boost happiness and positive feelings.
If you have trouble falling asleep at night, try dimming the lights before bed. This will help your mind settle down.
3-8. Avoid media that triggers negative thinking.
Media that tempts you to compare yourself to others, like magazines or Instagram, can reduce your self-esteem. If any forms of media make you doubt yourself or feel badly about your appearance, ignore them and redirect your focus. For example, journal or go out for a run.
Even temporary exposure to images of "ideal" people has been shown to negatively impact self-esteem.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:55",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Benefits of Positive Thinking\\n1-1. A positive mindset can improve your physical health.\\nOptimism is linked to lowering your stress levels, which can result in benefits such as:\\nA greater life span\\nA stronger immunity to illnesses and infections\\nA reduced risk of cardiovascular disease\\nLower levels of physical pain\\nBetter overall heart health\\n1-2. Positive thinking can support your mental health.\\nA commitment to an upbeat attitude and hopeful thought patterns can strengthen your psychological wellbeing. Some outcomes you may notice are:\\nIncreased emotional resilience\\nGreater self-awareness\\nEnhanced ability to regulate your moods\\nHigher levels of \\\"feel-good\\\" chemicals, like endorphins and dopamine\\n1-3. A positive attitude can enhance your relationships.\\nWhen you're dedicated to cultivating thankfulness, people will definitely see that. As you praise others and bring optimism to any social situation, you may experience:\\nGreater levels of gratitude\\nImproved communication with friends\\nA larger support network\\nEnhanced romantic relationships\\nMore warmth and emotional intimacy in your connections\\n1-4. Positive self-talk can lead to greater success in your career.\\nWhen you believe in your abilities and acknowledge your talents, then you're more likely to excel professionally. With positive thought patterns, you might:\\nReceive more respect from your colleagues\\nStand out in performance reviews\\nBoost productivity in your teams\\nSolve problems more creatively and effectively\\n2. Improving Your Outlook\\n2-1. Get a positive mood ASAP with a fun morning ritual.\\nOpen up the curtains to let in some sunlight, turn on upbeat music, and do some morning stretches. Eat a tasty, nourishing breakfast and start a task that makes you smile, like listening to guided meditation or writing down a positive affirmation.\\nFun routines brighten your day and help you look forward to waking up.\\nLight exercise stimulates your brain so you feel ready to take on your day.\\nMeditating and writing affirmations will promote creative thinking.\\n2-2. Search for highlights in your day to cultivate a positive mindset.\\nWhile you take care of errands or go about your routines, pay attention to any positive details that stand out. For example, look for the beauty in your surroundings or the kindness of strangers. You'll see that there are always special moments to embrace:\\n\\\"This rose garden is so stunning.\\\"\\n\\\"The weather is perfect for a long walk.\\\"\\n\\\"It's sweet that she gave water to the dog that's tied to the pole.\\\"\\n\\\"Jamie sent such a funny meme! She always makes me laugh.\\\"\\n\\\"My professor has the most interesting lectures.\\\"\\n2-3. Surround yourself with positive people to build your optimism.\\nFind friends who focus on what they’re happy about. As these inspiring individuals celebrate what they’re grateful for, you’ll find it a lot easier to count all your blessings and acknowledge what life has to offer.\\nBuild a network of people who approach life with lots of positivity. Spend less time with those who bring you down.\\n2-4. Practice gratitude for family and friends so you're always thankful.\\nWhen you give others your full attention and plenty of compliments, you help them feel more positive. These words of affirmation will allow you to see the good in everyone, including yourself. Praise people to model kindness and improve your own positive self-talk.\\nHelp someone feel good about themselves by recognizing them and pointing out their talents. For example, say, \\\"You're an incredible singer!\\\"\\nBeing nice to others is associated with positive outcomes for your family, health and career, which will help build your positive-thinking mindset.\\n2-5. Help others and you'll be happy about making a difference.\\nWrite down the ways that you have helped someone else and contributed to their wellbeing. This activity proves you’ve make a strong impact on your community, so you'll be positive about what you're capable of.\\nSupport everyone you can, including friends, family members, and strangers. Providing assistance to others will help you feel like you have the power to improve people's circumstances.\\n2-6. Join a social group to feel valued and included.\\nBelonging to a social group helps a build a positive outlook because you'll see how much you matter to others. Bond with others and chat about common interests—the sense of community will reassure you that you always have people to turn to.\\nFor example, gathering with people who share your same religious affiliation can cultivate a positive mindset. You may get a sense of comfort that they share your same spiritual beliefs and values.\\n2-7. Celebrate life by finding the humor in it.\\nLook for all the ways that you can have fun and laugh. Tell silly jokes, watch funny movies or shows, and attend comedy shows. Swap memes with your friends and share witty observations. Play around with others by relaxing and talking about what's ridiculous, interesting, or unusual.\\nPrioritize activities that put you in a playful mood, such as games. The more you take time for these hobbies, the more you'll cultivate a fun-loving attitude and easily crack jokes.\\n2-8. Take time to relax and uplift your mood.\\nTo combat stress, fatigue, or frustrations, set aside moments to unwind. Try out activities that calm you, like reading a book, watching a show, or chatting with a friend. Use mindfulness routines, like yoga or deep breathing, to take care of your body and regulate your mood.\\nWhen you calm yourself down, you eliminate your \\\"fight or flight\\\" response so your stress hormones aren't activated. It'll be easier to stay in a positive state of mind because you feel less anxious or worried.\\n2-9. Boost your self-esteem by working on activities you’re good at.\\nWhenever you feel a little unsure of yourself, throw yourself into a hobby or activity you excel at. As you notice how skilled you are, your mindset will shift and you’ll feel positively about yourself.\\nFor example, if you like knitting, take a break and work on a knitting project. You will get positive energy from this activity because you can see your progress. This positive energy will then influence how you feel about your other projects.\\n3. Challenging Negative Thoughts\\n3-1. Keep a thought journal to track negative beliefs you need to change.\\nIf you have trouble identifying your negative thoughts, start a thought journal. Write down the way that you perceive yourself and record all of your opinions. Reflect on your notes to learn about where you may need to bring more positivity to your life.\\nA thought journal helps you pay attention to the critical voice in your head and reflect on what it’s telling you.\\nFor example, if you write, “I feel powerless at work,\\\" then you’ll realize you need a healthier outlook about your career.\\n3-2. Use positive self-talk to quiet your inner critic.\\nWhen you hear a negative voice in your head or write a critical remark in your thought journal, take a pause and substitute it for an upbeat and optimistic comment. Check out these swaps for inspiration:\\nNegative: “I never have any energy.” : “I'll improve my nutrition so I’m vibrant and active.”\\nNegative: “I overreact to everything.” : “I have a ton of empathy, kindness, and compassion.”\\nNegative: “My friends never talk to me.” : “I’ll reach out to people I trust so I can have a fulfilling social life.”\\nNegative: “My boss is too strict and stresses me out.” : “This is a tough job and he’s doing the best he can.”\\n3-3. Point out the positive outcomes from life’s challenges.\\nKeep moving forward and avoid focusing on how difficult life can be. If you encounter an obstacle, think of it as an opportunity for adventure or creativity. Visualize your future and how you'll improve every time you overcome a stressful situation:\\n\\\"It's hard to be laid off, but now I can spend valuable time with my children.\\\"\\n\\\"Even though I don't have a car, I can work on my poetry while I ride the bus.\\\"\\n\\\"While money is tight, I can work on DIY projects and handmade gifts.\\\"\\n3-4. Keep a gratitude journal to avoid focusing on problems.\\nExpress what you're appreciative about in a journal, letter, or word doc. When you work on your gratitude journal, be as descriptive as you can and explain exactly why you're grateful for specific people or moments. Take part in this activity 1-2 times a day.\\nResearch shows that a gratitude journal is more effective when the person writes about a handful of instances in depth, rather than as a quick laundry list. As you journal, spend a few minutes reliving and savoring these moments.\\nThe gratitude journal will preserve memories that can make you smile later.\\n3-5. Choose to react positively to feel empowered by your actions.\\nMaintain an upbeat attitude, even in a frustrating situation. Focus on how much you’ll benefit from calmness and friendliness. For example, you may impress people with your patience and charisma. Whenever you’re stressed, react with grace and good energy.\\nTransform your insecurities into opportunities to take care of yourself. For example, if you’re unhappy with your level of fatigue, redirect your focus to how exciting it’ll be to prioritize your health.\\nWork on what you can control. For instance, turn on fun music in heavy traffic or start conversations with customers during a slow day.\\n3-6. Practice positive imagery to combat self-doubt or insecurities.\\nPicture yourself as confident and capable. As you imagine this version of yourself, think about a motivating and positive affirmation like, “I can finish this project. I will ask for a little help and it will get done.”\\nWhen you strive to be confident, you’re more likely to tackle tasks with a great attitude and a lot of focus. Then, you’ll eventually accomplish your goals.\\n3-7. Maintain a healthy lifestyle to boost your energy and resilience.\\nEat nutrient-rich foods to give yourself the right fuel. Since negative moods have been linked to dehydration, drink lots of water throughout the day. Exercise for 20-30 minutes at least 3 times a week and get 7-8 hours of sleep every night so your body can function at its best.\\nEat foods rich in vitamins that are known for their mood-boosting qualities. These include selenium, which is found in grains, beans, seafood and lean meats; omega-3 fatty acids, such as those in as walnuts; and folate, which is in leafy greens.\\nAs you exercise, your body releases endorphins, which are chemicals that boost happiness and positive feelings.\\nIf you have trouble falling asleep at night, try dimming the lights before bed. This will help your mind settle down.\\n3-8. Avoid media that triggers negative thinking.\\nMedia that tempts you to compare yourself to others, like magazines or Instagram, can reduce your self-esteem. If any forms of media make you doubt yourself or feel badly about your appearance, ignore them and redirect your focus. For example, journal or go out for a run.\\nEven temporary exposure to images of \\\"ideal\\\" people has been shown to negatively impact self-esteem.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A healthy and positive mindset is essential for your quality of life. Even if you’re facing major constraints—like your job or your finances—you can change negative thought patterns right away. In this article, we’ll share the benefits of positive thinking and ways to cultivate positivity. If you’d like to boost your mood and improve your outlook, read on. You’ll transform yourself and your mindset with some simple habits.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Benefits of Positive Thinking\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"A positive mindset can improve your physical health.\", \"描述\": \"Optimism is linked to lowering your stress levels, which can result in benefits such as:\\nA greater life span\\nA stronger immunity to illnesses and infections\\nA reduced risk of cardiovascular disease\\nLower levels of physical pain\\nBetter overall heart health\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Positive thinking can support your mental health.\", \"描述\": \"A commitment to an upbeat attitude and hopeful thought patterns can strengthen your psychological wellbeing. Some outcomes you may notice are:\\nIncreased emotional resilience\\nGreater self-awareness\\nEnhanced ability to regulate your moods\\nHigher levels of \\\"feel-good\\\" chemicals, like endorphins and dopamine\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"A positive attitude can enhance your relationships.\", \"描述\": \"When you're dedicated to cultivating thankfulness, people will definitely see that. As you praise others and bring optimism to any social situation, you may experience:\\nGreater levels of gratitude\\nImproved communication with friends\\nA larger support network\\nEnhanced romantic relationships\\nMore warmth and emotional intimacy in your connections\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Positive self-talk can lead to greater success in your career.\", \"描述\": \"When you believe in your abilities and acknowledge your talents, then you're more likely to excel professionally. With positive thought patterns, you might:\\nReceive more respect from your colleagues\\nStand out in performance reviews\\nBoost productivity in your teams\\nSolve problems more creatively and effectively\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Improving Your Outlook\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a positive mood ASAP with a fun morning ritual.\", \"描述\": \"Open up the curtains to let in some sunlight, turn on upbeat music, and do some morning stretches. Eat a tasty, nourishing breakfast and start a task that makes you smile, like listening to guided meditation or writing down a positive affirmation.\\nFun routines brighten your day and help you look forward to waking up.\\nLight exercise stimulates your brain so you feel ready to take on your day.\\nMeditating and writing affirmations will promote creative thinking.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Search for highlights in your day to cultivate a positive mindset.\", \"描述\": \"While you take care of errands or go about your routines, pay attention to any positive details that stand out. For example, look for the beauty in your surroundings or the kindness of strangers. You'll see that there are always special moments to embrace:\\n\\\"This rose garden is so stunning.\\\"\\n\\\"The weather is perfect for a long walk.\\\"\\n\\\"It's sweet that she gave water to the dog that's tied to the pole.\\\"\\n\\\"Jamie sent such a funny meme! She always makes me laugh.\\\"\\n\\\"My professor has the most interesting lectures.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Surround yourself with positive people to build your optimism.\", \"描述\": \"Find friends who focus on what they’re happy about. As these inspiring individuals celebrate what they’re grateful for, you’ll find it a lot easier to count all your blessings and acknowledge what life has to offer.\\nBuild a network of people who approach life with lots of positivity. Spend less time with those who bring you down.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Practice gratitude for family and friends so you're always thankful.\", \"描述\": \"When you give others your full attention and plenty of compliments, you help them feel more positive. These words of affirmation will allow you to see the good in everyone, including yourself. Praise people to model kindness and improve your own positive self-talk.\\nHelp someone feel good about themselves by recognizing them and pointing out their talents. For example, say, \\\"You're an incredible singer!\\\"\\nBeing nice to others is associated with positive outcomes for your family, health and career, which will help build your positive-thinking mindset.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Help others and you'll be happy about making a difference.\", \"描述\": \"Write down the ways that you have helped someone else and contributed to their wellbeing. This activity proves you’ve make a strong impact on your community, so you'll be positive about what you're capable of.\\nSupport everyone you can, including friends, family members, and strangers. Providing assistance to others will help you feel like you have the power to improve people's circumstances.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Join a social group to feel valued and included.\", \"描述\": \"Belonging to a social group helps a build a positive outlook because you'll see how much you matter to others. Bond with others and chat about common interests—the sense of community will reassure you that you always have people to turn to.\\nFor example, gathering with people who share your same religious affiliation can cultivate a positive mindset. You may get a sense of comfort that they share your same spiritual beliefs and values.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Celebrate life by finding the humor in it.\", \"描述\": \"Look for all the ways that you can have fun and laugh. Tell silly jokes, watch funny movies or shows, and attend comedy shows. Swap memes with your friends and share witty observations. Play around with others by relaxing and talking about what's ridiculous, interesting, or unusual.\\nPrioritize activities that put you in a playful mood, such as games. The more you take time for these hobbies, the more you'll cultivate a fun-loving attitude and easily crack jokes.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Take time to relax and uplift your mood.\", \"描述\": \"To combat stress, fatigue, or frustrations, set aside moments to unwind. Try out activities that calm you, like reading a book, watching a show, or chatting with a friend. Use mindfulness routines, like yoga or deep breathing, to take care of your body and regulate your mood.\\nWhen you calm yourself down, you eliminate your \\\"fight or flight\\\" response so your stress hormones aren't activated. It'll be easier to stay in a positive state of mind because you feel less anxious or worried.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Boost your self-esteem by working on activities you’re good at.\", \"描述\": \"Whenever you feel a little unsure of yourself, throw yourself into a hobby or activity you excel at. As you notice how skilled you are, your mindset will shift and you’ll feel positively about yourself.\\nFor example, if you like knitting, take a break and work on a knitting project. You will get positive energy from this activity because you can see your progress. This positive energy will then influence how you feel about your other projects.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Challenging Negative Thoughts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep a thought journal to track negative beliefs you need to change.\", \"描述\": \"If you have trouble identifying your negative thoughts, start a thought journal. Write down the way that you perceive yourself and record all of your opinions. Reflect on your notes to learn about where you may need to bring more positivity to your life.\\nA thought journal helps you pay attention to the critical voice in your head and reflect on what it’s telling you.\\nFor example, if you write, “I feel powerless at work,\\\" then you’ll realize you need a healthier outlook about your career.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use positive self-talk to quiet your inner critic.\", \"描述\": \"When you hear a negative voice in your head or write a critical remark in your thought journal, take a pause and substitute it for an upbeat and optimistic comment. Check out these swaps for inspiration:\\nNegative: “I never have any energy.” : “I'll improve my nutrition so I’m vibrant and active.”\\nNegative: “I overreact to everything.” : “I have a ton of empathy, kindness, and compassion.”\\nNegative: “My friends never talk to me.” : “I’ll reach out to people I trust so I can have a fulfilling social life.”\\nNegative: “My boss is too strict and stresses me out.” : “This is a tough job and he’s doing the best he can.”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Point out the positive outcomes from life’s challenges.\", \"描述\": \"Keep moving forward and avoid focusing on how difficult life can be. If you encounter an obstacle, think of it as an opportunity for adventure or creativity. Visualize your future and how you'll improve every time you overcome a stressful situation:\\n\\\"It's hard to be laid off, but now I can spend valuable time with my children.\\\"\\n\\\"Even though I don't have a car, I can work on my poetry while I ride the bus.\\\"\\n\\\"While money is tight, I can work on DIY projects and handmade gifts.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep a gratitude journal to avoid focusing on problems.\", \"描述\": \"Express what you're appreciative about in a journal, letter, or word doc. When you work on your gratitude journal, be as descriptive as you can and explain exactly why you're grateful for specific people or moments. Take part in this activity 1-2 times a day.\\nResearch shows that a gratitude journal is more effective when the person writes about a handful of instances in depth, rather than as a quick laundry list. As you journal, spend a few minutes reliving and savoring these moments.\\nThe gratitude journal will preserve memories that can make you smile later.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose to react positively to feel empowered by your actions.\", \"描述\": \"Maintain an upbeat attitude, even in a frustrating situation. Focus on how much you’ll benefit from calmness and friendliness. For example, you may impress people with your patience and charisma. Whenever you’re stressed, react with grace and good energy.\\nTransform your insecurities into opportunities to take care of yourself. For example, if you’re unhappy with your level of fatigue, redirect your focus to how exciting it’ll be to prioritize your health.\\nWork on what you can control. For instance, turn on fun music in heavy traffic or start conversations with customers during a slow day.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Practice positive imagery to combat self-doubt or insecurities.\", \"描述\": \"Picture yourself as confident and capable. As you imagine this version of yourself, think about a motivating and positive affirmation like, “I can finish this project. I will ask for a little help and it will get done.”\\nWhen you strive to be confident, you’re more likely to tackle tasks with a great attitude and a lot of focus. Then, you’ll eventually accomplish your goals.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Maintain a healthy lifestyle to boost your energy and resilience.\", \"描述\": \"Eat nutrient-rich foods to give yourself the right fuel. Since negative moods have been linked to dehydration, drink lots of water throughout the day. Exercise for 20-30 minutes at least 3 times a week and get 7-8 hours of sleep every night so your body can function at its best.\\nEat foods rich in vitamins that are known for their mood-boosting qualities. These include selenium, which is found in grains, beans, seafood and lean meats; omega-3 fatty acids, such as those in as walnuts; and folate, which is in leafy greens.\\nAs you exercise, your body releases endorphins, which are chemicals that boost happiness and positive feelings.\\nIf you have trouble falling asleep at night, try dimming the lights before bed. This will help your mind settle down.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Avoid media that triggers negative thinking.\", \"描述\": \"Media that tempts you to compare yourself to others, like magazines or Instagram, can reduce your self-esteem. If any forms of media make you doubt yourself or feel badly about your appearance, ignore them and redirect your focus. For example, journal or go out for a run.\\nEven temporary exposure to images of \\\"ideal\\\" people has been shown to negatively impact self-esteem.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,480 |
How to Build a Profitable, Low Danger, Riot Free Prison in Prison Architect
|
1. Steps
1-1. Do not take all of the initial grants at once.
Although there is no punishment for using the funds for reasons other than as intended or for not completing grant related tasks in a given time, having all of the cash available right off the bat makes you reckless.
Plan your prison first in planning mode, and take grants only as you need them to complete the phases of your project. If you only have 10 prisoners, there is relatively little benefit in building a massive cell block. You can easily extend buildings, so start small, and build only as much foundation as you actually need. Extend the foundations as your capacity requires.
By not taking all grants as soon as they are available, it will force you to think twice before starting a major building project. There is nothing worse than building a massive foundation, and having no money left to fill it out with.
1-2. Use a holding cell initially.
Holding cells are much cheaper than individual cells, and can allow you to raise your prisoner numbers (and therefore daily income) quickly.
Put beds, TVs and phones in the holding cell. They are not requirements, but will keep your prisoners much more happy early on. Without them, prisoners' sleep, family and recreation needs will spiral out of control before you know it, and riots will ensue.
Ensure that there is one bed per prisoner in a holding cell, one phone and TV to every 3-5 prisoners and one toilet to every 10 or so prisoners sharing the cell. One bench is sufficient regardless of prisoner numbers, as they will be much more inclined to use benches in the canteen, yard or other areas during their free time.
Holding cell doors close even during the day (when regular cell doors remain open). Ensure that there is one guard stationed in each holding cell to avoid prisoners getting locked in for extended periods of time.
Do not rush to build individual cells for prisoners, (except possibly getting your capacity up to 15, to receive the $10,000 grant completion bonus). As long as there are beds, TVs and phones, prisoners will happily remain in a holding cell for several days or weeks, allowing you to work on other things like laundry and workshops as an initial priority. Holding cells can easily be torn down and the space converted into standard cells later (where you will already have beds for them).
Prisoners also do not attempt to tunnel out of holding cells, so use this to your advantage early until you are ready to tackle potential prisoner escapes.
1-3. Keep your prisoners occupied.
You should aim to install TVs, phones, toilets and benches in the yard (if you intend to keep yard time scheduled on the regime) and canteen (especially if you have multiple "Eating" times each day).
Prisoners who have already eaten earlier in the day and no longer have a hunger need, or who do not have an exercise need, will still visit either the canteen or yard during defined eating or yard times. They will not, however eat or exercise, and will therefore just stop when they get into the area, and get in the way. Phones, TVs and toilets will allow them to attend to other needs during these times of day when they can't go elsewhere. It also keeps them out of the way of prisoners who do need to attend to these needs.
1-4. Set meal quantity and variety to high.
Hungry prisoners are riotous prisoners, well fed prisoners are content prisoners. If they are well fed, they will put up with a lot of other issues, especially early on.
1-5. Research deployment as your first priority.
Set your kitchen, storerooms etc as staff only as early as possible, this will prevent prisoners from getting hold of the worst kinds of weapons.
1-6. Leave no empty space on your daily schedule.
White space is essentially lockdown your prisoners will be forced to return to their cells with no way of fulfilling needs like entertainment, family or freedom, which prisoners really dislike.
Replace all empty space with "Free time" initially, and they will attend to their own needs quite happily.
1-7. Research Prison Labour as soon as possible.
It is the only chance you have of making a prison profitable, and riot free.
Once you have researched Prison Labour, convert some of this free time into work, but still ensure that there is sufficient free time available for prisoners to attend to their other needs.
Dirty uniforms and surroundings do not make prisoners happy, and will result in serious complaints. Ensure that laundry rooms and cleaning cupboards are installed and staffed as soon as Prison Labour is available. Prisoners can later be replaced by janitors to keep the prison clean if you prefer, but these can be researched later.
Split the working day up. You lose a little efficiency—depending on the layout of your prison, it can take as much as 30 in game minutes for prisoners to get to the workshop and begin work—but your prisoners are much happier for it. Two 4 hour work shifts broken up by a couple of hours of free time is much better for prisoner morale than one 7 or 8 hour shift, and the financial losses are fairly minimal.
Several smaller (but interconnected) workshops are better than one large one. Although for efficiency's sake, they should all be in the same room or complex, share an entrance and exits, and prisoners should be able to freely move from one workshop to another, breaking it it up into smaller units using fence and (locked open) doors will allow you to assign many more prisoners to work in PI, greatly increasing your daily profits.
1-8. Maintain a good guard to prisoner ratio.
Typically aim for 1 guard per enclosed area (cell block, canteen, workshop, laundry etc) which prisoners have access to, plus around 5-10% of your prisoner capacity as unassigned guards, with a minimum of 4 unassigned guards at all times.
1-9. Keep contraband out of your prison.
Detecting contraband is imperative.
Although expensive, metal detectors are imperative in ensuring your prison runs smoothly. At minimum, ensure that prisoners need to pass through one when entering and leaving the canteen, workshop, visiting area and kitchen (if you intend to use prisoners to work the kitchens - be careful if you do this as kitchens are contraband goldmines). Ideally, also make them pass through one before returning to their cells, or any area with a toilet or TV, where they can stash contraband, but this can be a longer term goal.
Dog patrols help detect smelly, non metallic contraband. However in current versions of the game, this is not so important, as it has no real value to prisoners. Only tools or weapons can be used, and all of these are metal.
However dogs are very useful in detecting possible tunnels, though currently seem to throw up a lot of false positives.
Search every cell block at least once every day.The best time to do this is during meal or yard times, as all prisoners will be out of the cell block (and will therefore not be searched unnecessarily, which is a serious complaint that increases the danger level in the prison). Click on one bed or toilet in each cell block and choose "Search Cell Block". This will search every possible hiding place in the cell block, like a shakedown, but without angering the prisoners. Ensure at least one guard is assigned to the canteen (not just to patrol it) during this, as all available guards, including those on patrol will leave their posts to carry out the search.
1-10. Use dogs and CCTV sparingly.
In current versions of the game, it is much better to spend the money on additional guards, rather than lots of dogs or CCTV cameras. though this will undoubtedly change.
1-11. Grow your prison organically.
Turn off all intake for a few days if you feel yourself getting overwhelmed, do not run out of money building huge new cell blocks until you are at or over your capacity (remember to add any additional capacity you have from holding cells as this is not included in the number displayed on screen). Patience is key. Trying to get too big too quickly will inevitably lead to even longer periods of waiting while you slowly build up cash reserves to complete your current project. It is best not to start a project until you can fully fund it to completion, and keep the money in reserve for unforeseen emergencies like repairs and tunnel removal.
Tips
Never forget, fence is free, so building a double fence around the prison is a great way to secure it, until you can afford a prison wall.
Pay close attention to room requirements. If it doesn't say indoors, it doesn't need to be indoors, at least initially (though you may choose to move it indoors later for aesthetic or security reasons). Unless it says "enclosed" it can be completely out in the open.
For example, Offices do not need to be indoors, or enclosed, so feel free to stick them out in the open on the other side of the road.
Showers need to be indoors, but do not need to be enclosed, so there is no reason for them to have doors—open showers are much easier to deal with than ones with doors, especially jail doors which require a guard to open.
Workshops on the other hand need to be enclosed, but not indoors, so feel free to surround them with (free) fences instead of expensive walls. This also means your prisoners "Freedom" need seems to go down while working in the workshops.
Once your prison is running smoothly, do not fear maximum security prisoners. In a well run prison, they are unlikely to cause any problems. They also serve longer sentences than normal and minimum security prisoners. This allows you to continue to increase the capacity of your prison past around 200 (when the number of minimum or normal security prisoners being released each day can be greater than the intake).
If your prisoner numbers seem to be dropping each day, rather than increasing, turn off minimum and normal security intake for a while and accept only maximum security. This will ensure that you have a good number of prisoners who will be with you for a while.
Warnings
Certain room types (e.g. laundry, workshops, cleaning cupboards) work perfectly when you have more than one, others (e.g, canteens, kitchens) do not function correctly at all. It is always safer to leave room to expand a room when you need additional capacity, than to count on being able to build another one later.
Lockdown, bang-up and shakedown should be used sparingly, if at all. They really infuriate prisoners, and are more likely to increase the chances of a full scale riot than prevent or bring one to an end. It is much safer to micro-manage the situation, manually sending guards to deal with problem prisoners and break up fights (though these should be rare to nonexistent after the earliest phases of the game if you follow these tips) than to indiscriminately annoy prisoners who aren't causing issues.
Remember, the game is still in alpha. There are still bugs and incomplete features.
If prisoners and staff get stuck in the terrain, you will manually need to free them. For staff, it is usually easier to fire and replace them. For prisoners, you will need to remove the item or items they are stuck on and rebuild. Searching the prisoner can also unstick them, but this runs the risk of making an already unhappy prisoner (who has likely not been able to eat, sleep, shower, change, use the bathroom and have any kind of entertainment or family interaction for days by the time you find them) into a prisoner ready to snap.
Workmen can build in a very haphazard manner at times. This can be particularly frustrating when you need them to do just one simple task before you can move on (like installing an entrance to a building, or installing required items in a room). Hiring a new workman and placing him on top of the job you want doing will usually trigger him to start it, and he will usually finish related jobs in the same area before moving on to anything else. This can increase their efficiency, but can be a very expensive way to build, especially early on in the game. Saving and reloading the game can also trigger workmen to move on to different jobs, but don't count on the jobs they move to being any more helpful.
There is currently no reason to research legal in bureaucracy, or build an execution room, as they serve no purpose in the main game. Building a security room serves no official purpose, and CCTV monitors do not need to be placed in them however, unassigned guards do tend to congregate in security rooms, so they can be a good way of keeping CCTV rooms staffed and ensuring that unassigned guards are stationed in areas where they are needed (eg, placing a security room near the main entrance to the prison will ensure that there are usually guards on hand to let people into and out of the prison).
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:55",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Do not take all of the initial grants at once.\\nAlthough there is no punishment for using the funds for reasons other than as intended or for not completing grant related tasks in a given time, having all of the cash available right off the bat makes you reckless.\\nPlan your prison first in planning mode, and take grants only as you need them to complete the phases of your project. If you only have 10 prisoners, there is relatively little benefit in building a massive cell block. You can easily extend buildings, so start small, and build only as much foundation as you actually need. Extend the foundations as your capacity requires.\\nBy not taking all grants as soon as they are available, it will force you to think twice before starting a major building project. There is nothing worse than building a massive foundation, and having no money left to fill it out with.\\n1-2. Use a holding cell initially.\\nHolding cells are much cheaper than individual cells, and can allow you to raise your prisoner numbers (and therefore daily income) quickly.\\nPut beds, TVs and phones in the holding cell. They are not requirements, but will keep your prisoners much more happy early on. Without them, prisoners' sleep, family and recreation needs will spiral out of control before you know it, and riots will ensue.\\nEnsure that there is one bed per prisoner in a holding cell, one phone and TV to every 3-5 prisoners and one toilet to every 10 or so prisoners sharing the cell. One bench is sufficient regardless of prisoner numbers, as they will be much more inclined to use benches in the canteen, yard or other areas during their free time.\\nHolding cell doors close even during the day (when regular cell doors remain open). Ensure that there is one guard stationed in each holding cell to avoid prisoners getting locked in for extended periods of time.\\nDo not rush to build individual cells for prisoners, (except possibly getting your capacity up to 15, to receive the $10,000 grant completion bonus). As long as there are beds, TVs and phones, prisoners will happily remain in a holding cell for several days or weeks, allowing you to work on other things like laundry and workshops as an initial priority. Holding cells can easily be torn down and the space converted into standard cells later (where you will already have beds for them).\\nPrisoners also do not attempt to tunnel out of holding cells, so use this to your advantage early until you are ready to tackle potential prisoner escapes.\\n1-3. Keep your prisoners occupied.\\nYou should aim to install TVs, phones, toilets and benches in the yard (if you intend to keep yard time scheduled on the regime) and canteen (especially if you have multiple \\\"Eating\\\" times each day).\\nPrisoners who have already eaten earlier in the day and no longer have a hunger need, or who do not have an exercise need, will still visit either the canteen or yard during defined eating or yard times. They will not, however eat or exercise, and will therefore just stop when they get into the area, and get in the way. Phones, TVs and toilets will allow them to attend to other needs during these times of day when they can't go elsewhere. It also keeps them out of the way of prisoners who do need to attend to these needs.\\n1-4. Set meal quantity and variety to high.\\nHungry prisoners are riotous prisoners, well fed prisoners are content prisoners. If they are well fed, they will put up with a lot of other issues, especially early on.\\n1-5. Research deployment as your first priority.\\nSet your kitchen, storerooms etc as staff only as early as possible, this will prevent prisoners from getting hold of the worst kinds of weapons.\\n1-6. Leave no empty space on your daily schedule.\\nWhite space is essentially lockdown your prisoners will be forced to return to their cells with no way of fulfilling needs like entertainment, family or freedom, which prisoners really dislike.\\nReplace all empty space with \\\"Free time\\\" initially, and they will attend to their own needs quite happily.\\n1-7. Research Prison Labour as soon as possible.\\nIt is the only chance you have of making a prison profitable, and riot free.\\nOnce you have researched Prison Labour, convert some of this free time into work, but still ensure that there is sufficient free time available for prisoners to attend to their other needs.\\nDirty uniforms and surroundings do not make prisoners happy, and will result in serious complaints. Ensure that laundry rooms and cleaning cupboards are installed and staffed as soon as Prison Labour is available. Prisoners can later be replaced by janitors to keep the prison clean if you prefer, but these can be researched later.\\nSplit the working day up. You lose a little efficiency—depending on the layout of your prison, it can take as much as 30 in game minutes for prisoners to get to the workshop and begin work—but your prisoners are much happier for it. Two 4 hour work shifts broken up by a couple of hours of free time is much better for prisoner morale than one 7 or 8 hour shift, and the financial losses are fairly minimal.\\nSeveral smaller (but interconnected) workshops are better than one large one. Although for efficiency's sake, they should all be in the same room or complex, share an entrance and exits, and prisoners should be able to freely move from one workshop to another, breaking it it up into smaller units using fence and (locked open) doors will allow you to assign many more prisoners to work in PI, greatly increasing your daily profits.\\n1-8. Maintain a good guard to prisoner ratio.\\nTypically aim for 1 guard per enclosed area (cell block, canteen, workshop, laundry etc) which prisoners have access to, plus around 5-10% of your prisoner capacity as unassigned guards, with a minimum of 4 unassigned guards at all times.\\n1-9. Keep contraband out of your prison.\\nDetecting contraband is imperative.\\nAlthough expensive, metal detectors are imperative in ensuring your prison runs smoothly. At minimum, ensure that prisoners need to pass through one when entering and leaving the canteen, workshop, visiting area and kitchen (if you intend to use prisoners to work the kitchens - be careful if you do this as kitchens are contraband goldmines). Ideally, also make them pass through one before returning to their cells, or any area with a toilet or TV, where they can stash contraband, but this can be a longer term goal.\\nDog patrols help detect smelly, non metallic contraband. However in current versions of the game, this is not so important, as it has no real value to prisoners. Only tools or weapons can be used, and all of these are metal.\\nHowever dogs are very useful in detecting possible tunnels, though currently seem to throw up a lot of false positives.\\nSearch every cell block at least once every day.The best time to do this is during meal or yard times, as all prisoners will be out of the cell block (and will therefore not be searched unnecessarily, which is a serious complaint that increases the danger level in the prison). Click on one bed or toilet in each cell block and choose \\\"Search Cell Block\\\". This will search every possible hiding place in the cell block, like a shakedown, but without angering the prisoners. Ensure at least one guard is assigned to the canteen (not just to patrol it) during this, as all available guards, including those on patrol will leave their posts to carry out the search.\\n1-10. Use dogs and CCTV sparingly.\\nIn current versions of the game, it is much better to spend the money on additional guards, rather than lots of dogs or CCTV cameras. though this will undoubtedly change.\\n1-11. Grow your prison organically.\\nTurn off all intake for a few days if you feel yourself getting overwhelmed, do not run out of money building huge new cell blocks until you are at or over your capacity (remember to add any additional capacity you have from holding cells as this is not included in the number displayed on screen). Patience is key. Trying to get too big too quickly will inevitably lead to even longer periods of waiting while you slowly build up cash reserves to complete your current project. It is best not to start a project until you can fully fund it to completion, and keep the money in reserve for unforeseen emergencies like repairs and tunnel removal.\\nTips\\nNever forget, fence is free, so building a double fence around the prison is a great way to secure it, until you can afford a prison wall.\\nPay close attention to room requirements. If it doesn't say indoors, it doesn't need to be indoors, at least initially (though you may choose to move it indoors later for aesthetic or security reasons). Unless it says \\\"enclosed\\\" it can be completely out in the open.\\n\\nFor example, Offices do not need to be indoors, or enclosed, so feel free to stick them out in the open on the other side of the road.\\nShowers need to be indoors, but do not need to be enclosed, so there is no reason for them to have doors—open showers are much easier to deal with than ones with doors, especially jail doors which require a guard to open.\\nWorkshops on the other hand need to be enclosed, but not indoors, so feel free to surround them with (free) fences instead of expensive walls. This also means your prisoners \\\"Freedom\\\" need seems to go down while working in the workshops.\\nOnce your prison is running smoothly, do not fear maximum security prisoners. In a well run prison, they are unlikely to cause any problems. They also serve longer sentences than normal and minimum security prisoners. This allows you to continue to increase the capacity of your prison past around 200 (when the number of minimum or normal security prisoners being released each day can be greater than the intake).\\nIf your prisoner numbers seem to be dropping each day, rather than increasing, turn off minimum and normal security intake for a while and accept only maximum security. This will ensure that you have a good number of prisoners who will be with you for a while.\\nWarnings\\nCertain room types (e.g. laundry, workshops, cleaning cupboards) work perfectly when you have more than one, others (e.g, canteens, kitchens) do not function correctly at all. It is always safer to leave room to expand a room when you need additional capacity, than to count on being able to build another one later.\\nLockdown, bang-up and shakedown should be used sparingly, if at all. They really infuriate prisoners, and are more likely to increase the chances of a full scale riot than prevent or bring one to an end. It is much safer to micro-manage the situation, manually sending guards to deal with problem prisoners and break up fights (though these should be rare to nonexistent after the earliest phases of the game if you follow these tips) than to indiscriminately annoy prisoners who aren't causing issues.\\nRemember, the game is still in alpha. There are still bugs and incomplete features.\\n\\nIf prisoners and staff get stuck in the terrain, you will manually need to free them. For staff, it is usually easier to fire and replace them. For prisoners, you will need to remove the item or items they are stuck on and rebuild. Searching the prisoner can also unstick them, but this runs the risk of making an already unhappy prisoner (who has likely not been able to eat, sleep, shower, change, use the bathroom and have any kind of entertainment or family interaction for days by the time you find them) into a prisoner ready to snap.\\nWorkmen can build in a very haphazard manner at times. This can be particularly frustrating when you need them to do just one simple task before you can move on (like installing an entrance to a building, or installing required items in a room). Hiring a new workman and placing him on top of the job you want doing will usually trigger him to start it, and he will usually finish related jobs in the same area before moving on to anything else. This can increase their efficiency, but can be a very expensive way to build, especially early on in the game. Saving and reloading the game can also trigger workmen to move on to different jobs, but don't count on the jobs they move to being any more helpful.\\nThere is currently no reason to research legal in bureaucracy, or build an execution room, as they serve no purpose in the main game. Building a security room serves no official purpose, and CCTV monitors do not need to be placed in them however, unassigned guards do tend to congregate in security rooms, so they can be a good way of keeping CCTV rooms staffed and ensuring that unassigned guards are stationed in areas where they are needed (eg, placing a security room near the main entrance to the prison will ensure that there are usually guards on hand to let people into and out of the prison).\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"It is entirely possible to (legitimately) build a riot free, low danger, functioning high capacity prison in less than 20 (game) days, it just takes patience, and following a few simple rules.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Do not take all of the initial grants at once.\", \"描述\": \"Although there is no punishment for using the funds for reasons other than as intended or for not completing grant related tasks in a given time, having all of the cash available right off the bat makes you reckless.\\nPlan your prison first in planning mode, and take grants only as you need them to complete the phases of your project. If you only have 10 prisoners, there is relatively little benefit in building a massive cell block. You can easily extend buildings, so start small, and build only as much foundation as you actually need. Extend the foundations as your capacity requires.\\nBy not taking all grants as soon as they are available, it will force you to think twice before starting a major building project. There is nothing worse than building a massive foundation, and having no money left to fill it out with.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a holding cell initially.\", \"描述\": \"Holding cells are much cheaper than individual cells, and can allow you to raise your prisoner numbers (and therefore daily income) quickly.\\nPut beds, TVs and phones in the holding cell. They are not requirements, but will keep your prisoners much more happy early on. Without them, prisoners' sleep, family and recreation needs will spiral out of control before you know it, and riots will ensue.\\nEnsure that there is one bed per prisoner in a holding cell, one phone and TV to every 3-5 prisoners and one toilet to every 10 or so prisoners sharing the cell. One bench is sufficient regardless of prisoner numbers, as they will be much more inclined to use benches in the canteen, yard or other areas during their free time.\\nHolding cell doors close even during the day (when regular cell doors remain open). Ensure that there is one guard stationed in each holding cell to avoid prisoners getting locked in for extended periods of time.\\nDo not rush to build individual cells for prisoners, (except possibly getting your capacity up to 15, to receive the $10,000 grant completion bonus). As long as there are beds, TVs and phones, prisoners will happily remain in a holding cell for several days or weeks, allowing you to work on other things like laundry and workshops as an initial priority. Holding cells can easily be torn down and the space converted into standard cells later (where you will already have beds for them).\\nPrisoners also do not attempt to tunnel out of holding cells, so use this to your advantage early until you are ready to tackle potential prisoner escapes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep your prisoners occupied.\", \"描述\": \"You should aim to install TVs, phones, toilets and benches in the yard (if you intend to keep yard time scheduled on the regime) and canteen (especially if you have multiple \\\"Eating\\\" times each day).\\nPrisoners who have already eaten earlier in the day and no longer have a hunger need, or who do not have an exercise need, will still visit either the canteen or yard during defined eating or yard times. They will not, however eat or exercise, and will therefore just stop when they get into the area, and get in the way. Phones, TVs and toilets will allow them to attend to other needs during these times of day when they can't go elsewhere. It also keeps them out of the way of prisoners who do need to attend to these needs.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set meal quantity and variety to high.\", \"描述\": \"Hungry prisoners are riotous prisoners, well fed prisoners are content prisoners. If they are well fed, they will put up with a lot of other issues, especially early on.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Research deployment as your first priority.\", \"描述\": \"Set your kitchen, storerooms etc as staff only as early as possible, this will prevent prisoners from getting hold of the worst kinds of weapons.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Leave no empty space on your daily schedule.\", \"描述\": \"White space is essentially lockdown your prisoners will be forced to return to their cells with no way of fulfilling needs like entertainment, family or freedom, which prisoners really dislike.\\nReplace all empty space with \\\"Free time\\\" initially, and they will attend to their own needs quite happily.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Research Prison Labour as soon as possible.\", \"描述\": \"It is the only chance you have of making a prison profitable, and riot free.\\nOnce you have researched Prison Labour, convert some of this free time into work, but still ensure that there is sufficient free time available for prisoners to attend to their other needs.\\nDirty uniforms and surroundings do not make prisoners happy, and will result in serious complaints. Ensure that laundry rooms and cleaning cupboards are installed and staffed as soon as Prison Labour is available. Prisoners can later be replaced by janitors to keep the prison clean if you prefer, but these can be researched later.\\nSplit the working day up. You lose a little efficiency—depending on the layout of your prison, it can take as much as 30 in game minutes for prisoners to get to the workshop and begin work—but your prisoners are much happier for it. Two 4 hour work shifts broken up by a couple of hours of free time is much better for prisoner morale than one 7 or 8 hour shift, and the financial losses are fairly minimal.\\nSeveral smaller (but interconnected) workshops are better than one large one. Although for efficiency's sake, they should all be in the same room or complex, share an entrance and exits, and prisoners should be able to freely move from one workshop to another, breaking it it up into smaller units using fence and (locked open) doors will allow you to assign many more prisoners to work in PI, greatly increasing your daily profits.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Maintain a good guard to prisoner ratio.\", \"描述\": \"Typically aim for 1 guard per enclosed area (cell block, canteen, workshop, laundry etc) which prisoners have access to, plus around 5-10% of your prisoner capacity as unassigned guards, with a minimum of 4 unassigned guards at all times.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Keep contraband out of your prison.\", \"描述\": \"Detecting contraband is imperative.\\nAlthough expensive, metal detectors are imperative in ensuring your prison runs smoothly. At minimum, ensure that prisoners need to pass through one when entering and leaving the canteen, workshop, visiting area and kitchen (if you intend to use prisoners to work the kitchens - be careful if you do this as kitchens are contraband goldmines). Ideally, also make them pass through one before returning to their cells, or any area with a toilet or TV, where they can stash contraband, but this can be a longer term goal.\\nDog patrols help detect smelly, non metallic contraband. However in current versions of the game, this is not so important, as it has no real value to prisoners. Only tools or weapons can be used, and all of these are metal.\\nHowever dogs are very useful in detecting possible tunnels, though currently seem to throw up a lot of false positives.\\nSearch every cell block at least once every day.The best time to do this is during meal or yard times, as all prisoners will be out of the cell block (and will therefore not be searched unnecessarily, which is a serious complaint that increases the danger level in the prison). Click on one bed or toilet in each cell block and choose \\\"Search Cell Block\\\". This will search every possible hiding place in the cell block, like a shakedown, but without angering the prisoners. Ensure at least one guard is assigned to the canteen (not just to patrol it) during this, as all available guards, including those on patrol will leave their posts to carry out the search.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Use dogs and CCTV sparingly.\", \"描述\": \"In current versions of the game, it is much better to spend the money on additional guards, rather than lots of dogs or CCTV cameras. though this will undoubtedly change.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Grow your prison organically.\", \"描述\": \"Turn off all intake for a few days if you feel yourself getting overwhelmed, do not run out of money building huge new cell blocks until you are at or over your capacity (remember to add any additional capacity you have from holding cells as this is not included in the number displayed on screen). Patience is key. Trying to get too big too quickly will inevitably lead to even longer periods of waiting while you slowly build up cash reserves to complete your current project. It is best not to start a project until you can fully fund it to completion, and keep the money in reserve for unforeseen emergencies like repairs and tunnel removal.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Never forget, fence is free, so building a double fence around the prison is a great way to secure it, until you can afford a prison wall.\\n\", \"Pay close attention to room requirements. If it doesn't say indoors, it doesn't need to be indoors, at least initially (though you may choose to move it indoors later for aesthetic or security reasons). Unless it says \\\"enclosed\\\" it can be completely out in the open.\\n\\nFor example, Offices do not need to be indoors, or enclosed, so feel free to stick them out in the open on the other side of the road.\\nShowers need to be indoors, but do not need to be enclosed, so there is no reason for them to have doors—open showers are much easier to deal with than ones with doors, especially jail doors which require a guard to open.\\nWorkshops on the other hand need to be enclosed, but not indoors, so feel free to surround them with (free) fences instead of expensive walls. This also means your prisoners \\\"Freedom\\\" need seems to go down while working in the workshops.\\n\", \"Once your prison is running smoothly, do not fear maximum security prisoners. In a well run prison, they are unlikely to cause any problems. They also serve longer sentences than normal and minimum security prisoners. This allows you to continue to increase the capacity of your prison past around 200 (when the number of minimum or normal security prisoners being released each day can be greater than the intake).\\nIf your prisoner numbers seem to be dropping each day, rather than increasing, turn off minimum and normal security intake for a while and accept only maximum security. This will ensure that you have a good number of prisoners who will be with you for a while.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Certain room types (e.g. laundry, workshops, cleaning cupboards) work perfectly when you have more than one, others (e.g, canteens, kitchens) do not function correctly at all. It is always safer to leave room to expand a room when you need additional capacity, than to count on being able to build another one later.\\n\", \"Lockdown, bang-up and shakedown should be used sparingly, if at all. They really infuriate prisoners, and are more likely to increase the chances of a full scale riot than prevent or bring one to an end. It is much safer to micro-manage the situation, manually sending guards to deal with problem prisoners and break up fights (though these should be rare to nonexistent after the earliest phases of the game if you follow these tips) than to indiscriminately annoy prisoners who aren't causing issues.\\n\", \"Remember, the game is still in alpha. There are still bugs and incomplete features.\\n\\nIf prisoners and staff get stuck in the terrain, you will manually need to free them. For staff, it is usually easier to fire and replace them. For prisoners, you will need to remove the item or items they are stuck on and rebuild. Searching the prisoner can also unstick them, but this runs the risk of making an already unhappy prisoner (who has likely not been able to eat, sleep, shower, change, use the bathroom and have any kind of entertainment or family interaction for days by the time you find them) into a prisoner ready to snap.\\nWorkmen can build in a very haphazard manner at times. This can be particularly frustrating when you need them to do just one simple task before you can move on (like installing an entrance to a building, or installing required items in a room). Hiring a new workman and placing him on top of the job you want doing will usually trigger him to start it, and he will usually finish related jobs in the same area before moving on to anything else. This can increase their efficiency, but can be a very expensive way to build, especially early on in the game. Saving and reloading the game can also trigger workmen to move on to different jobs, but don't count on the jobs they move to being any more helpful.\\nThere is currently no reason to research legal in bureaucracy, or build an execution room, as they serve no purpose in the main game. Building a security room serves no official purpose, and CCTV monitors do not need to be placed in them however, unassigned guards do tend to congregate in security rooms, so they can be a good way of keeping CCTV rooms staffed and ensuring that unassigned guards are stationed in areas where they are needed (eg, placing a security room near the main entrance to the prison will ensure that there are usually guards on hand to let people into and out of the prison).\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,481 |
How to Build a Projector Out of Cardboard
|
1. Prepping the Box
1-1. Choose a shoebox that is sturdy and that has a lid that fits well.
Any size of shoebox will do for this project. Try to pick a shoebox that still has its original lid so that the least amount of light will get through. Also, pick a box that is in good condition—a box with shaky sides or rips and tears won't end up producing the best quality picture.
It doesn't matter what color the box is. You'll be painting the inside of the box black, and the outside color won't affect the picture.
1-2. Reinforce shaky sides with school glue to make the box stable.
Every shoebox has flaps that are glued down that help it to hold its shape. Over time, some of these flaps come loose and the box can start to fall apart. Examine your shoebox and reinforce any loose areas with glue.
Hold the glued sections together until they're dry, or use binder clips or something similar to hold them together while you work on the rest of the project.
1-3. Paint the inside of the shoebox and lid with black paint.
Opt for acrylic paint, as it'll dry much faster than other kinds of paint. Use a paintbrush to apply a thick layer over the entire interior of the box so that the original cardboard is no longer visible. Don't forget to paint the inside of the lid, too!
1-4. Let the paint and glue dry for about 1 hour before you do anything else.
When you touch the paint or glue, it should be dry to the touch. If it's still tacky, it needs more time to dry.
Depending on how thick a layer of paint you applied, you may need to wait for up to 2-3 hours.
2. Inserting the Magnifying Glass
2-1. Detach the handle from the magnifying glass.
Choose a magnifying glass with a lens that will fully fit on the side of your shoebox. If the lens is bigger than the side itself, it won't work for this project. You can use something like a hacksaw to remove the handle, or find a magnifying glass with a handle that screws off so you don't have to worry about using a sharp tool.
If you do use a hacksaw, be very careful. If you're not old enough to use one yourself, ask a parent to do this part for you.
2-2. Trace the lens on the center of one end of the cardboard box.
Use one of the shorter ends of the box for the magnifying glass rather than one of the longer sides. Stand the cardboard box on end and place the magnifying glass in the center. Trace around it with a pen or marker.
Do your best to center the lens in the middle of the box. Use a ruler if you don't want to just eyeball it.
2-3. Use an X-ACTO knife to cut out the tracing from the cardboard box.
You can do this freehand, or, attach the X-ACTO knife to a compass to make sure your cut is perfect all the way around. Do your best to make the cuts smooth so that there are no ragged edges.
Use caution when cutting the hole, and never cut toward yourself. Instead, hold the box and the knife in such a way that the blade is moving away from your body when you make the cuts.
2-4. Insert the magnifying glass into the hole with hot glue.
Fit the magnifying glass into the hole you just cut so that half of its width is on the inside of the box, and the other half is on the outside of the box. Apply hot glue around the edges where the box and the magnifying glass meet on both the inside and outside of the box.
The hot glue will simply ensure that the magnifying glass stays put while you're using the projector. If you skip this step, there's a chance that the lens could fall out.
2-5. Cut part of the lid off if it doesn't fit around the magnifying lens.
After the lens is in place, try putting the lid on the box. If the lid hits the lens and can't be fully put onto the box, trim away the part that overlaps the lens. Use a marker to trace the part of the lens that intersects with lid, and then cut it away with the X-ACTO knife.
It's important that the lid fits firmly on the box so that no light can get inside.
3. Preparing the Phone Stand
3-1. Measure a piece of foam board that will be wide enough to fit in the box.
This piece of foam will be the base of your phone stand. When you cut it out, make it about 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) long. It should fit securely in the bottom of the shoebox, but keep in mind that you may need to slide it back and forth, so don't make it too tight.
3-2. Cut another piece of foam board that is almost as tall as the box itself.
This piece of foam will be the “stand” part of your phone stand; it's what your phone will lean against in the box. Make it as wide as the base, and make it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) shorter than the top of the shoebox.
Having a phone stand is important so you can play around with the positioning of your phone in the projector. The distance of the phone from the lens can make a really big difference in the quality of the picture.
3-3. Glue the 2 pieces of foam board together perpendicularly to create the stand.
Use your hot glue gun to attach the “stand” to the “base.” Place the stand close to one edge of the base so that there will be room for your phone to lean on it without falling off. Hold the 2 pieces together firmly until they are completely dry and stuck together.
Keep your phone away from the stand at this stage—you don't want to accidentally get any hot glue on it!
3-4. Put the stand in the box at the far end away from the magnifying glass.
Try out your stand before actually moving forward with the rest of the project. You should be able to slide it back and forth in the box with ease.
You're almost ready to use your projector! There are just a few more simple steps to take to get everything ready.
4. Using Your Projector
4-1. Turn the brightness on your phone up as far as possible.
For the best results, the picture on your phone needs to be as bright as it can be. Because this does take a bit more battery than low-light, make sure your phone is fully charged before using it in your projector. You don't want your phone to die in the middle of a movie!
Whether you have an iPhone or an Android, you can adjust the brightness level.
4-2. Lock the screen so the image won't flip when the phone is in the box.
The magnifying lens is going to invert the image coming from your phone, so you'll need to play the video or content upside-down so that it appears right on the screen. Locking your screen will prevent the image from automatically righting itself.
To lock the screen on an iPhone, swipe up from your home screen. Click the button that shows a lock with an arrow circling it.
To lock the screen on an android, go to “settings,” tap “accessibility,” and tap “auto-rotate screen” to disable the function.
4-3. Place the box in front of a flat, unobstructed surface, like an empty wall.
For the best results, use a wall that doesn't have anything on it. If there are pictures hanging on it, take them down before you use the projector. You could also try hanging up a sheet or making a screen for the image to project onto. If there are things in the way, the picture will end up being distorted and will be hard to see.
Put the box itself on a flat surface so that it isn't set at a weird angle.
The distance the projector should be from the “screen” depends on the size of the screen itself. For a bigger screen that is about 7 feet (84 in) squared, place the projector about 9 feet (110 in) away. For a smaller screen that is only 4 feet (48 in) squared, place the projector 5 to 6 feet (60 to 72 in) away. You may need to play with the distance a bit to get the right clarity.
4-4. Place your phone at the back of the box and test the clarity.
Set your phone on the stand, play the content, and put the lid on the box. Check to see how the image appears on the wall. If it's blurry, you can make adjustments by moving the phone closer to the lens. It may take a few tries to get it exactly right, but you'll be able to use your DIY at-home projector in no time!
You can use your projector to play slide shows, videos, movies, and lots of other great content.
Tips
Be cautious when using the hacksaw and X-ACTO knife. If you've never used them before, ask someone to help you out so that you don't accidentally hurt yourself.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:56",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Prepping the Box\\n1-1. Choose a shoebox that is sturdy and that has a lid that fits well.\\nAny size of shoebox will do for this project. Try to pick a shoebox that still has its original lid so that the least amount of light will get through. Also, pick a box that is in good condition—a box with shaky sides or rips and tears won't end up producing the best quality picture.\\nIt doesn't matter what color the box is. You'll be painting the inside of the box black, and the outside color won't affect the picture.\\n1-2. Reinforce shaky sides with school glue to make the box stable.\\nEvery shoebox has flaps that are glued down that help it to hold its shape. Over time, some of these flaps come loose and the box can start to fall apart. Examine your shoebox and reinforce any loose areas with glue.\\nHold the glued sections together until they're dry, or use binder clips or something similar to hold them together while you work on the rest of the project.\\n1-3. Paint the inside of the shoebox and lid with black paint.\\nOpt for acrylic paint, as it'll dry much faster than other kinds of paint. Use a paintbrush to apply a thick layer over the entire interior of the box so that the original cardboard is no longer visible. Don't forget to paint the inside of the lid, too!\\n1-4. Let the paint and glue dry for about 1 hour before you do anything else.\\nWhen you touch the paint or glue, it should be dry to the touch. If it's still tacky, it needs more time to dry.\\nDepending on how thick a layer of paint you applied, you may need to wait for up to 2-3 hours.\\n2. Inserting the Magnifying Glass\\n2-1. Detach the handle from the magnifying glass.\\nChoose a magnifying glass with a lens that will fully fit on the side of your shoebox. If the lens is bigger than the side itself, it won't work for this project. You can use something like a hacksaw to remove the handle, or find a magnifying glass with a handle that screws off so you don't have to worry about using a sharp tool.\\nIf you do use a hacksaw, be very careful. If you're not old enough to use one yourself, ask a parent to do this part for you.\\n2-2. Trace the lens on the center of one end of the cardboard box.\\nUse one of the shorter ends of the box for the magnifying glass rather than one of the longer sides. Stand the cardboard box on end and place the magnifying glass in the center. Trace around it with a pen or marker.\\nDo your best to center the lens in the middle of the box. Use a ruler if you don't want to just eyeball it.\\n2-3. Use an X-ACTO knife to cut out the tracing from the cardboard box.\\nYou can do this freehand, or, attach the X-ACTO knife to a compass to make sure your cut is perfect all the way around. Do your best to make the cuts smooth so that there are no ragged edges.\\nUse caution when cutting the hole, and never cut toward yourself. Instead, hold the box and the knife in such a way that the blade is moving away from your body when you make the cuts.\\n2-4. Insert the magnifying glass into the hole with hot glue.\\nFit the magnifying glass into the hole you just cut so that half of its width is on the inside of the box, and the other half is on the outside of the box. Apply hot glue around the edges where the box and the magnifying glass meet on both the inside and outside of the box.\\nThe hot glue will simply ensure that the magnifying glass stays put while you're using the projector. If you skip this step, there's a chance that the lens could fall out.\\n2-5. Cut part of the lid off if it doesn't fit around the magnifying lens.\\nAfter the lens is in place, try putting the lid on the box. If the lid hits the lens and can't be fully put onto the box, trim away the part that overlaps the lens. Use a marker to trace the part of the lens that intersects with lid, and then cut it away with the X-ACTO knife.\\nIt's important that the lid fits firmly on the box so that no light can get inside.\\n3. Preparing the Phone Stand\\n3-1. Measure a piece of foam board that will be wide enough to fit in the box.\\nThis piece of foam will be the base of your phone stand. When you cut it out, make it about 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) long. It should fit securely in the bottom of the shoebox, but keep in mind that you may need to slide it back and forth, so don't make it too tight.\\n3-2. Cut another piece of foam board that is almost as tall as the box itself.\\nThis piece of foam will be the “stand” part of your phone stand; it's what your phone will lean against in the box. Make it as wide as the base, and make it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) shorter than the top of the shoebox.\\nHaving a phone stand is important so you can play around with the positioning of your phone in the projector. The distance of the phone from the lens can make a really big difference in the quality of the picture.\\n3-3. Glue the 2 pieces of foam board together perpendicularly to create the stand.\\nUse your hot glue gun to attach the “stand” to the “base.” Place the stand close to one edge of the base so that there will be room for your phone to lean on it without falling off. Hold the 2 pieces together firmly until they are completely dry and stuck together.\\nKeep your phone away from the stand at this stage—you don't want to accidentally get any hot glue on it!\\n3-4. Put the stand in the box at the far end away from the magnifying glass.\\nTry out your stand before actually moving forward with the rest of the project. You should be able to slide it back and forth in the box with ease.\\nYou're almost ready to use your projector! There are just a few more simple steps to take to get everything ready.\\n4. Using Your Projector\\n4-1. Turn the brightness on your phone up as far as possible.\\nFor the best results, the picture on your phone needs to be as bright as it can be. Because this does take a bit more battery than low-light, make sure your phone is fully charged before using it in your projector. You don't want your phone to die in the middle of a movie!\\nWhether you have an iPhone or an Android, you can adjust the brightness level.\\n4-2. Lock the screen so the image won't flip when the phone is in the box.\\nThe magnifying lens is going to invert the image coming from your phone, so you'll need to play the video or content upside-down so that it appears right on the screen. Locking your screen will prevent the image from automatically righting itself.\\nTo lock the screen on an iPhone, swipe up from your home screen. Click the button that shows a lock with an arrow circling it.\\nTo lock the screen on an android, go to “settings,” tap “accessibility,” and tap “auto-rotate screen” to disable the function.\\n4-3. Place the box in front of a flat, unobstructed surface, like an empty wall.\\nFor the best results, use a wall that doesn't have anything on it. If there are pictures hanging on it, take them down before you use the projector. You could also try hanging up a sheet or making a screen for the image to project onto. If there are things in the way, the picture will end up being distorted and will be hard to see.\\nPut the box itself on a flat surface so that it isn't set at a weird angle.\\nThe distance the projector should be from the “screen” depends on the size of the screen itself. For a bigger screen that is about 7 feet (84 in) squared, place the projector about 9 feet (110 in) away. For a smaller screen that is only 4 feet (48 in) squared, place the projector 5 to 6 feet (60 to 72 in) away. You may need to play with the distance a bit to get the right clarity.\\n4-4. Place your phone at the back of the box and test the clarity.\\nSet your phone on the stand, play the content, and put the lid on the box. Check to see how the image appears on the wall. If it's blurry, you can make adjustments by moving the phone closer to the lens. It may take a few tries to get it exactly right, but you'll be able to use your DIY at-home projector in no time!\\nYou can use your projector to play slide shows, videos, movies, and lots of other great content.\\nTips\\nBe cautious when using the hacksaw and X-ACTO knife. If you've never used them before, ask someone to help you out so that you don't accidentally hurt yourself.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"It's super easy to make a DIY smartphone projector out of materials you already have around the house. You just need a small cardboard box, like a shoebox, a magnifying glass, and a few other things. Once you get it all put together, your homemade projector will allow you to show your movies and slideshows to friends and family from the comfort of your own home!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepping the Box\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a shoebox that is sturdy and that has a lid that fits well.\", \"描述\": \"Any size of shoebox will do for this project. Try to pick a shoebox that still has its original lid so that the least amount of light will get through. Also, pick a box that is in good condition—a box with shaky sides or rips and tears won't end up producing the best quality picture.\\nIt doesn't matter what color the box is. You'll be painting the inside of the box black, and the outside color won't affect the picture.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Reinforce shaky sides with school glue to make the box stable.\", \"描述\": \"Every shoebox has flaps that are glued down that help it to hold its shape. Over time, some of these flaps come loose and the box can start to fall apart. Examine your shoebox and reinforce any loose areas with glue.\\nHold the glued sections together until they're dry, or use binder clips or something similar to hold them together while you work on the rest of the project.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint the inside of the shoebox and lid with black paint.\", \"描述\": \"Opt for acrylic paint, as it'll dry much faster than other kinds of paint. Use a paintbrush to apply a thick layer over the entire interior of the box so that the original cardboard is no longer visible. Don't forget to paint the inside of the lid, too!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Let the paint and glue dry for about 1 hour before you do anything else.\", \"描述\": \"When you touch the paint or glue, it should be dry to the touch. If it's still tacky, it needs more time to dry.\\nDepending on how thick a layer of paint you applied, you may need to wait for up to 2-3 hours.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Inserting the Magnifying Glass\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Detach the handle from the magnifying glass.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a magnifying glass with a lens that will fully fit on the side of your shoebox. If the lens is bigger than the side itself, it won't work for this project. You can use something like a hacksaw to remove the handle, or find a magnifying glass with a handle that screws off so you don't have to worry about using a sharp tool.\\nIf you do use a hacksaw, be very careful. If you're not old enough to use one yourself, ask a parent to do this part for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Trace the lens on the center of one end of the cardboard box.\", \"描述\": \"Use one of the shorter ends of the box for the magnifying glass rather than one of the longer sides. Stand the cardboard box on end and place the magnifying glass in the center. Trace around it with a pen or marker.\\nDo your best to center the lens in the middle of the box. Use a ruler if you don't want to just eyeball it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use an X-ACTO knife to cut out the tracing from the cardboard box.\", \"描述\": \"You can do this freehand, or, attach the X-ACTO knife to a compass to make sure your cut is perfect all the way around. Do your best to make the cuts smooth so that there are no ragged edges.\\nUse caution when cutting the hole, and never cut toward yourself. Instead, hold the box and the knife in such a way that the blade is moving away from your body when you make the cuts.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Insert the magnifying glass into the hole with hot glue.\", \"描述\": \"Fit the magnifying glass into the hole you just cut so that half of its width is on the inside of the box, and the other half is on the outside of the box. Apply hot glue around the edges where the box and the magnifying glass meet on both the inside and outside of the box.\\nThe hot glue will simply ensure that the magnifying glass stays put while you're using the projector. If you skip this step, there's a chance that the lens could fall out.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut part of the lid off if it doesn't fit around the magnifying lens.\", \"描述\": \"After the lens is in place, try putting the lid on the box. If the lid hits the lens and can't be fully put onto the box, trim away the part that overlaps the lens. Use a marker to trace the part of the lens that intersects with lid, and then cut it away with the X-ACTO knife.\\nIt's important that the lid fits firmly on the box so that no light can get inside.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Phone Stand\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure a piece of foam board that will be wide enough to fit in the box.\", \"描述\": \"This piece of foam will be the base of your phone stand. When you cut it out, make it about 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) long. It should fit securely in the bottom of the shoebox, but keep in mind that you may need to slide it back and forth, so don't make it too tight.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut another piece of foam board that is almost as tall as the box itself.\", \"描述\": \"This piece of foam will be the “stand” part of your phone stand; it's what your phone will lean against in the box. Make it as wide as the base, and make it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) shorter than the top of the shoebox.\\nHaving a phone stand is important so you can play around with the positioning of your phone in the projector. The distance of the phone from the lens can make a really big difference in the quality of the picture.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue the 2 pieces of foam board together perpendicularly to create the stand.\", \"描述\": \"Use your hot glue gun to attach the “stand” to the “base.” Place the stand close to one edge of the base so that there will be room for your phone to lean on it without falling off. Hold the 2 pieces together firmly until they are completely dry and stuck together.\\nKeep your phone away from the stand at this stage—you don't want to accidentally get any hot glue on it!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put the stand in the box at the far end away from the magnifying glass.\", \"描述\": \"Try out your stand before actually moving forward with the rest of the project. You should be able to slide it back and forth in the box with ease.\\nYou're almost ready to use your projector! There are just a few more simple steps to take to get everything ready.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Using Your Projector\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Turn the brightness on your phone up as far as possible.\", \"描述\": \"For the best results, the picture on your phone needs to be as bright as it can be. Because this does take a bit more battery than low-light, make sure your phone is fully charged before using it in your projector. You don't want your phone to die in the middle of a movie!\\nWhether you have an iPhone or an Android, you can adjust the brightness level.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lock the screen so the image won't flip when the phone is in the box.\", \"描述\": \"The magnifying lens is going to invert the image coming from your phone, so you'll need to play the video or content upside-down so that it appears right on the screen. Locking your screen will prevent the image from automatically righting itself.\\nTo lock the screen on an iPhone, swipe up from your home screen. Click the button that shows a lock with an arrow circling it.\\nTo lock the screen on an android, go to “settings,” tap “accessibility,” and tap “auto-rotate screen” to disable the function.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the box in front of a flat, unobstructed surface, like an empty wall.\", \"描述\": \"For the best results, use a wall that doesn't have anything on it. If there are pictures hanging on it, take them down before you use the projector. You could also try hanging up a sheet or making a screen for the image to project onto. If there are things in the way, the picture will end up being distorted and will be hard to see.\\nPut the box itself on a flat surface so that it isn't set at a weird angle.\\nThe distance the projector should be from the “screen” depends on the size of the screen itself. For a bigger screen that is about 7 feet (84 in) squared, place the projector about 9 feet (110 in) away. For a smaller screen that is only 4 feet (48 in) squared, place the projector 5 to 6 feet (60 to 72 in) away. You may need to play with the distance a bit to get the right clarity.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place your phone at the back of the box and test the clarity.\", \"描述\": \"Set your phone on the stand, play the content, and put the lid on the box. Check to see how the image appears on the wall. If it's blurry, you can make adjustments by moving the phone closer to the lens. It may take a few tries to get it exactly right, but you'll be able to use your DIY at-home projector in no time!\\nYou can use your projector to play slide shows, videos, movies, and lots of other great content.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Be cautious when using the hacksaw and X-ACTO knife. If you've never used them before, ask someone to help you out so that you don't accidentally hurt yourself.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,482 |
How to Build a Propane Blacksmith Forge
|
1. Planning
1-1. Set an objective:
What is the goal of this forge? What will the end product be? Questions like this are based on what you want to make or work with, as well as the amount of use the forge.
1-2. Make a tentative plan.
Take the goals and decide on these factors: Number of burners, size of forge, amount of usage, budget, short-cuts (do you already have a major component of a forge?), etcetera. Where the forge will be built and operated is important (this forge must be operated outdoors).
1-3. Finalize the plan.
Create a parts list as based on forge design. Affirm "blueprints" as to what the forge will be, part by part, and based on size.
1-4. Gather parts.
This can be done progressively as you make your way building components. You can build a gas forge with a $0 budget, but you'll need to scavenge parts.
2. Building
2-1. Build the forge body.
There are two major ends of the gas forge, which are the body and the burners. The body can be any metal container such as an air tank or 5 gallon (18.9 L) paint can. This needs to be lined with an insulating layer. Firebrick is cheap but very inefficient, while high-temperature ceramic fiber blanketing is expensive and holds heat very well.
2-2. Set up the burners:
The most practical way to build the propane burners is to buy a book. A book on homemade propane burners will offer insight on propane safety, engineering considerations, and efficiency. There are ways to make burners from mig welding tips and steel pipe, as shown above.
This picture depicts two propane burners with air chokes, mig-welding tip nozzles, and a shut-off to use just one burner.
If budget is a major concern and your forge design is smaller than 200 cubic inches (roughly) a propane bottle torch can be used.
2-3. Set-up work area.
A forge stand is good if it needs to be used and moved a lot. The forge needs to be outside during operation. Properly ventilating not only the heat but the output gasses is a project on its own and doing so improperly will lead to property damage and/or death.
The picture depicts a dolly style forge cart which holds the propane underneath with tool storage. The propane bottle is removed and place away from the forge when in use.
3. Testing and Operating
3-1. Test the forge.
Use soapy water to test whether the gas line leaks or not with pressure. Use a medium-sized metal file to see how hot the forge can get and how fast it heats up. When in use, take note of how long gas lasts to budget how much work can be done on a can of propane.
3-2. Use the forge.
Always wear safety glasses during all work. Large and hot forge work should be done with IR protective glasses. If you are a home hobbies, try these experiments:
Use a metal file, examine the amount of sparks produced when on a bench grinder. Anneal the piece and examine again. Quench the piece in water at an orange heat and try again.
Try making a round bar square if you have an anvil.
Make a twist in a square bar with a vice and pliers.
Heat a scrap metal file as hot as it can go. If it turns white and 'burns,' the forge is efficient enough to faggot-weld with. If it does not reach this temperature, it is fine.
Try faggot-welding two rods together using borax.
Tips
Visit a local blacksmith, knife maker, or kiln to see what kind of forge they have for inspiration.
Books on blacksmithing, propane burners, and gas forges are available that are not too expensive and offer sound, tested, and cited material on how to build and operate a gas forge.
Warnings
Wear gloves when you can. Hot metal is not like hot food, it doesn't cool down as quick when in contact with skin
Light the forge with a torch, long match, or something that gets your hands away from the opening of the forge door. Do NOT light a burner at the air choke. It will ruin your day.
The exit gasses of a forge, propane or coal, are poisonous. You could die if the area is not well ventilated.
Propane is explosive. You could die if you don't treat it as such.
Always wear safety glasses for work. Metal scales when heated up, and the scale falls off when being worked with.
Propane is poisonous. You can't breath just propane. You'll die.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:56",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning\\n1-1. Set an objective:\\nWhat is the goal of this forge? What will the end product be? Questions like this are based on what you want to make or work with, as well as the amount of use the forge.\\n1-2. Make a tentative plan.\\nTake the goals and decide on these factors: Number of burners, size of forge, amount of usage, budget, short-cuts (do you already have a major component of a forge?), etcetera. Where the forge will be built and operated is important (this forge must be operated outdoors).\\n1-3. Finalize the plan.\\nCreate a parts list as based on forge design. Affirm \\\"blueprints\\\" as to what the forge will be, part by part, and based on size.\\n1-4. Gather parts.\\nThis can be done progressively as you make your way building components. You can build a gas forge with a $0 budget, but you'll need to scavenge parts.\\n2. Building\\n2-1. Build the forge body.\\nThere are two major ends of the gas forge, which are the body and the burners. The body can be any metal container such as an air tank or 5 gallon (18.9 L) paint can. This needs to be lined with an insulating layer. Firebrick is cheap but very inefficient, while high-temperature ceramic fiber blanketing is expensive and holds heat very well.\\n2-2. Set up the burners:\\nThe most practical way to build the propane burners is to buy a book. A book on homemade propane burners will offer insight on propane safety, engineering considerations, and efficiency. There are ways to make burners from mig welding tips and steel pipe, as shown above.\\nThis picture depicts two propane burners with air chokes, mig-welding tip nozzles, and a shut-off to use just one burner.\\nIf budget is a major concern and your forge design is smaller than 200 cubic inches (roughly) a propane bottle torch can be used.\\n2-3. Set-up work area.\\nA forge stand is good if it needs to be used and moved a lot. The forge needs to be outside during operation. Properly ventilating not only the heat but the output gasses is a project on its own and doing so improperly will lead to property damage and/or death.\\nThe picture depicts a dolly style forge cart which holds the propane underneath with tool storage. The propane bottle is removed and place away from the forge when in use.\\n3. Testing and Operating\\n3-1. Test the forge.\\nUse soapy water to test whether the gas line leaks or not with pressure. Use a medium-sized metal file to see how hot the forge can get and how fast it heats up. When in use, take note of how long gas lasts to budget how much work can be done on a can of propane.\\n3-2. Use the forge.\\nAlways wear safety glasses during all work. Large and hot forge work should be done with IR protective glasses. If you are a home hobbies, try these experiments: \\nUse a metal file, examine the amount of sparks produced when on a bench grinder. Anneal the piece and examine again. Quench the piece in water at an orange heat and try again.\\nTry making a round bar square if you have an anvil.\\nMake a twist in a square bar with a vice and pliers.\\nHeat a scrap metal file as hot as it can go. If it turns white and 'burns,' the forge is efficient enough to faggot-weld with. If it does not reach this temperature, it is fine.\\nTry faggot-welding two rods together using borax.\\nTips\\nVisit a local blacksmith, knife maker, or kiln to see what kind of forge they have for inspiration.\\nBooks on blacksmithing, propane burners, and gas forges are available that are not too expensive and offer sound, tested, and cited material on how to build and operate a gas forge.\\nWarnings\\nWear gloves when you can. Hot metal is not like hot food, it doesn't cool down as quick when in contact with skin\\nLight the forge with a torch, long match, or something that gets your hands away from the opening of the forge door. Do NOT light a burner at the air choke. It will ruin your day.\\nThe exit gasses of a forge, propane or coal, are poisonous. You could die if the area is not well ventilated.\\nPropane is explosive. You could die if you don't treat it as such.\\nAlways wear safety glasses for work. Metal scales when heated up, and the scale falls off when being worked with.\\nPropane is poisonous. You can't breath just propane. You'll die.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"In the workplace, metal is only as good as its temper. A forge allows the craftsman to change properties of metal such as its hardness, shape, and strength as a project dictates. There are several ways to accomplish this kind of metal work, but for the DIYer, a propane forge is the cleanest. This article is how to construct a general propane-fired metalworking forge for whatever your work entails.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set an objective:\", \"描述\": \"What is the goal of this forge? What will the end product be? Questions like this are based on what you want to make or work with, as well as the amount of use the forge.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a tentative plan.\", \"描述\": \"Take the goals and decide on these factors: Number of burners, size of forge, amount of usage, budget, short-cuts (do you already have a major component of a forge?), etcetera. Where the forge will be built and operated is important (this forge must be operated outdoors).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finalize the plan.\", \"描述\": \"Create a parts list as based on forge design. Affirm \\\"blueprints\\\" as to what the forge will be, part by part, and based on size.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Gather parts.\", \"描述\": \"This can be done progressively as you make your way building components. You can build a gas forge with a $0 budget, but you'll need to scavenge parts.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build the forge body.\", \"描述\": \"There are two major ends of the gas forge, which are the body and the burners. The body can be any metal container such as an air tank or 5 gallon (18.9 L) paint can. This needs to be lined with an insulating layer. Firebrick is cheap but very inefficient, while high-temperature ceramic fiber blanketing is expensive and holds heat very well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set up the burners:\", \"描述\": \"The most practical way to build the propane burners is to buy a book. A book on homemade propane burners will offer insight on propane safety, engineering considerations, and efficiency. There are ways to make burners from mig welding tips and steel pipe, as shown above.\\nThis picture depicts two propane burners with air chokes, mig-welding tip nozzles, and a shut-off to use just one burner.\\nIf budget is a major concern and your forge design is smaller than 200 cubic inches (roughly) a propane bottle torch can be used.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set-up work area.\", \"描述\": \"A forge stand is good if it needs to be used and moved a lot. The forge needs to be outside during operation. Properly ventilating not only the heat but the output gasses is a project on its own and doing so improperly will lead to property damage and/or death.\\nThe picture depicts a dolly style forge cart which holds the propane underneath with tool storage. The propane bottle is removed and place away from the forge when in use.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Testing and Operating\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Test the forge.\", \"描述\": \"Use soapy water to test whether the gas line leaks or not with pressure. Use a medium-sized metal file to see how hot the forge can get and how fast it heats up. When in use, take note of how long gas lasts to budget how much work can be done on a can of propane.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use the forge.\", \"描述\": \"Always wear safety glasses during all work. Large and hot forge work should be done with IR protective glasses. If you are a home hobbies, try these experiments: \\nUse a metal file, examine the amount of sparks produced when on a bench grinder. Anneal the piece and examine again. Quench the piece in water at an orange heat and try again.\\nTry making a round bar square if you have an anvil.\\nMake a twist in a square bar with a vice and pliers.\\nHeat a scrap metal file as hot as it can go. If it turns white and 'burns,' the forge is efficient enough to faggot-weld with. If it does not reach this temperature, it is fine.\\nTry faggot-welding two rods together using borax.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Visit a local blacksmith, knife maker, or kiln to see what kind of forge they have for inspiration.\\n\", \"Books on blacksmithing, propane burners, and gas forges are available that are not too expensive and offer sound, tested, and cited material on how to build and operate a gas forge.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wear gloves when you can. Hot metal is not like hot food, it doesn't cool down as quick when in contact with skin\\n\", \"Light the forge with a torch, long match, or something that gets your hands away from the opening of the forge door. Do NOT light a burner at the air choke. It will ruin your day.\\n\", \"The exit gasses of a forge, propane or coal, are poisonous. You could die if the area is not well ventilated.\\n\", \"Propane is explosive. You could die if you don't treat it as such.\\n\", \"Always wear safety glasses for work. Metal scales when heated up, and the scale falls off when being worked with.\\n\", \"Propane is poisonous. You can't breath just propane. You'll die.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,483 |
How to Build a Protein Skimmer
|
1. Fashioning the Collection Cup
1-1. Cut two 16 fl oz (470 mL) plastic water bottles in half.
Peel the labels off of both bottles, then remove the lids and empty their contents into the sink (or drink them so you’re not wasting water). Use a pair of scissors to snip the top off of one of the empty bottles where it begins to taper. Do the same to the second bottle, then cut off the bottom end so that it forms a tube.
Do your best not to crush or mangle the bottles while you’re cutting them.
You’ll be fitting the water bottles together to create a makeshift collection cup. If you want your collection cup to hold more debris, simply cut the tube piece slightly longer.
1-2. Fit the upper half of the first bottle into the lower half of the second.
Turn the top piece upside down and slide the neck directly into the tube. Continue pushing the piece in until the bottom edges of both pieces are aligned, or until it won’t go any further. Together, these two bottle pieces will serve as your collection cup.
When you activate your finished skimmer, stray proteins in the water of your aquarium will be trapped by bubbles generated by your air pump, pulled up through the chamber of your skimmer, and forced out through the mouth of the top bottle piece, where they’ll accumulate on the inside of the tube piece.
1-3. Glue the two bottle pieces together using aquarium silicone.
Squeeze a dime-sized glob of silicone onto the seam where the edges of the two bottle pieces connect. Use the pad of your finger or another tool, such as a folded paper towel, to spread the silicone into a thin layer.
Don’t forget to wash your hands thoroughly with soap and hot water when you’re done to scrub away any traces of silicone.
1-4.
Aquarium silicone is a high-strength type of adhesive that’s designed specifically for bonding underwater. You can pick up a small bottle of aquarium silicone at any pet shop or aquarium supply store for around $3-5.
1-5. Allow the silicone to cure for at least 24 hours.
Aquarium silicone usually dries in a matter of minutes. However, it will take closer to a full day for the material to harden completely. At this point, it will be able to provide a waterproof seal.
Some aquarium silicone formulas may take up to a full week to cure. Make sure you read the specs on the product you’re using to determine whether it fits the timeframe you've set for your project.
2. Assembling the Skimmer Chamber
2-1. Cut a piece of PVC pipe
To make a skimmer for a standard-sized fish tank that holds 40 gallons (150 L) or less, thin-walled PVC with a 2 in (5.1 cm) diameter will work best. Use a pipe cutter or hacksaw to trim the PVC down to the necessary specifications.
You can also saw through PVC pipe using a length of nylon string if you don’t have access to one of these other tools.
Cutting your skimmer’s reaction chamber slightly short will allow you to adjust its position once inside the tank to generate the maximum amount of airflow.
2-2. Drill two parallel holes on one side of the PVC.
Set your holes 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) inward from the ends of the pipe. Mark the position of each hole with a pencil, doing your best to line them up as precisely as possible. Bore a clean, straight hole through each marking at a 90-degree angle.
You’ll be fitting these holes with suction cups to mount your finished skimmer to the wall of your fish tank. Select a drill bit slightly smaller than the nubs on the backside of the suction cups, using the specific cups you bought for reference.
Be careful not to accidentally drill through the opposite side of the pipe—doing so will render your skimmer inoperable.
2-3. Make a third hole 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) from the end of the other side.
Turn your PVC pipe around and rotate it 180-degrees. Drill an additional hole just above the end of the blank side. This hole will serve as the air intake for your protein skimmer.
Later, you’ll use the air intake hole to thread the hose of your airstone, which is a device used to generate tiny bubbles in the water of an aquarium.
2-4. Insert rubber suction cups into the two parallel holes.
Align the suction cup nubs with the holes, then press down on them firmly until they’re fully seated. They should fit snugly and stay put, provided you used an appropriately-sized drill bit.
Any type of suction cup should do the trick, since your skimmer will be both lightweight and suspended underwater. 22 mm (0.87 in) cups are a fairly standard size.
If you’re worried that your suction cups might pull free of your skimmer or interfere with their airflow, you can seal the edges using your leftover aquarium silicone.
2-5. Thread the hose of your airstone through the air intake.
Guide the hose into the open end of the pipe and out through the drilled hole. Continue feeding the hose through until the airstone itself rests inside the pipe. The rest of the hose should extend outside the pipe.
Keep in mind that the airstone you use needs to be 2 inches (5.1 cm) or shorter in order to fit inside the PVC tube.
3. Installing the Skimmer
3-1. Connect your airstone to your submersible aquarium pump.
Be sure to switch off your pump before attaching the airstone. The end of the hose opposite the stone should just slide onto the corresponding pump fitting. Some models may need to be secured via a separate valve or latch.
Read through the instruction manual for the specific model you’re using to ensure that your airstone is hooked up correctly.
3-2. Slide your collection cup over the top of the pipe.
Once you’ve put the collection cup in place, your homemade skimmer will officially be complete. All that’s left to do is add it to your tank!
A 16 fl oz (470 mL) bottle should just fit over a section of 2 in (5.1 cm) PVC pipe.
3-3. Adjust the placement of the skimmer inside your tank for optimal airflow.
Lower the bottom of the skimmer (the end with the air intake hole) into the tank, then turn the pump back on. As you do, you’ll notice a cascade of bubbles escaping from the mouth of the bottle. Raise or lower the pump a few times until the bubbles begin to appear steadily.
You can also play around with the position of the collection cup instead if you want to go ahead and mount the skimmer, since it’s not fixed.
3-4. Mount your skimmer to your tank using the attached suction cups.
When you’re satisfied with the placement of your skimmer, press the suction cups into the wall of the tank to hold it in place. Use your other hand to brace yourself against the outside of the tank to prevent it from tipping or shifting.
The suction cups will make it easy to remove and reposition your skimmer, if necessary.
3-5. Remove and rinse out your collection cup as needed.
After a few days, you’ll likely notice the water inside the collection cup become cloudy. This means its time to empty it. Slide the cup off the top of the skimmer and pour the dirty water down the drain. Then, wash it out thoroughly with clean water and slide it back on top of the skimmer chamber.
If your collection cup is in need of a more thorough cleaning, soak it in a 10-1 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. The acid will help dissolve algae, mineral deposits, and other stuck-on grime.
The exact frequency of your cleanings will be determined by the volume of your tank and the amount of aquatic life it contains.
Tips
You can also make a super-sized protein skimmer for extra large tanks using two 2 L (68 fl oz) and 4 in (10 cm) PVC pipe.
If you’re worried about small fish finding their way into the chamber of the skimmer, cut a piece of porous foam to cover the opening.
If you have an especially large aquarium and your skimmer is collecting significant amounts of organic matter, try running a line from the collection cup to a separate overflow tank.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:56",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Fashioning the Collection Cup\\n1-1. Cut two 16 fl oz (470 mL) plastic water bottles in half.\\nPeel the labels off of both bottles, then remove the lids and empty their contents into the sink (or drink them so you’re not wasting water). Use a pair of scissors to snip the top off of one of the empty bottles where it begins to taper. Do the same to the second bottle, then cut off the bottom end so that it forms a tube.\\nDo your best not to crush or mangle the bottles while you’re cutting them.\\nYou’ll be fitting the water bottles together to create a makeshift collection cup. If you want your collection cup to hold more debris, simply cut the tube piece slightly longer.\\n1-2. Fit the upper half of the first bottle into the lower half of the second.\\nTurn the top piece upside down and slide the neck directly into the tube. Continue pushing the piece in until the bottom edges of both pieces are aligned, or until it won’t go any further. Together, these two bottle pieces will serve as your collection cup.\\nWhen you activate your finished skimmer, stray proteins in the water of your aquarium will be trapped by bubbles generated by your air pump, pulled up through the chamber of your skimmer, and forced out through the mouth of the top bottle piece, where they’ll accumulate on the inside of the tube piece.\\n1-3. Glue the two bottle pieces together using aquarium silicone.\\nSqueeze a dime-sized glob of silicone onto the seam where the edges of the two bottle pieces connect. Use the pad of your finger or another tool, such as a folded paper towel, to spread the silicone into a thin layer.\\nDon’t forget to wash your hands thoroughly with soap and hot water when you’re done to scrub away any traces of silicone.\\n1-4. \\nAquarium silicone is a high-strength type of adhesive that’s designed specifically for bonding underwater. You can pick up a small bottle of aquarium silicone at any pet shop or aquarium supply store for around $3-5.\\n1-5. Allow the silicone to cure for at least 24 hours.\\nAquarium silicone usually dries in a matter of minutes. However, it will take closer to a full day for the material to harden completely. At this point, it will be able to provide a waterproof seal.\\nSome aquarium silicone formulas may take up to a full week to cure. Make sure you read the specs on the product you’re using to determine whether it fits the timeframe you've set for your project.\\n2. Assembling the Skimmer Chamber\\n2-1. Cut a piece of PVC pipe\\nTo make a skimmer for a standard-sized fish tank that holds 40 gallons (150 L) or less, thin-walled PVC with a 2 in (5.1 cm) diameter will work best. Use a pipe cutter or hacksaw to trim the PVC down to the necessary specifications.\\nYou can also saw through PVC pipe using a length of nylon string if you don’t have access to one of these other tools.\\nCutting your skimmer’s reaction chamber slightly short will allow you to adjust its position once inside the tank to generate the maximum amount of airflow.\\n2-2. Drill two parallel holes on one side of the PVC.\\nSet your holes 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) inward from the ends of the pipe. Mark the position of each hole with a pencil, doing your best to line them up as precisely as possible. Bore a clean, straight hole through each marking at a 90-degree angle.\\nYou’ll be fitting these holes with suction cups to mount your finished skimmer to the wall of your fish tank. Select a drill bit slightly smaller than the nubs on the backside of the suction cups, using the specific cups you bought for reference.\\nBe careful not to accidentally drill through the opposite side of the pipe—doing so will render your skimmer inoperable.\\n2-3. Make a third hole 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) from the end of the other side.\\nTurn your PVC pipe around and rotate it 180-degrees. Drill an additional hole just above the end of the blank side. This hole will serve as the air intake for your protein skimmer.\\nLater, you’ll use the air intake hole to thread the hose of your airstone, which is a device used to generate tiny bubbles in the water of an aquarium.\\n2-4. Insert rubber suction cups into the two parallel holes.\\nAlign the suction cup nubs with the holes, then press down on them firmly until they’re fully seated. They should fit snugly and stay put, provided you used an appropriately-sized drill bit.\\nAny type of suction cup should do the trick, since your skimmer will be both lightweight and suspended underwater. 22 mm (0.87 in) cups are a fairly standard size.\\nIf you’re worried that your suction cups might pull free of your skimmer or interfere with their airflow, you can seal the edges using your leftover aquarium silicone.\\n2-5. Thread the hose of your airstone through the air intake.\\nGuide the hose into the open end of the pipe and out through the drilled hole. Continue feeding the hose through until the airstone itself rests inside the pipe. The rest of the hose should extend outside the pipe.\\nKeep in mind that the airstone you use needs to be 2 inches (5.1 cm) or shorter in order to fit inside the PVC tube.\\n3. Installing the Skimmer\\n3-1. Connect your airstone to your submersible aquarium pump.\\nBe sure to switch off your pump before attaching the airstone. The end of the hose opposite the stone should just slide onto the corresponding pump fitting. Some models may need to be secured via a separate valve or latch.\\nRead through the instruction manual for the specific model you’re using to ensure that your airstone is hooked up correctly.\\n3-2. Slide your collection cup over the top of the pipe.\\nOnce you’ve put the collection cup in place, your homemade skimmer will officially be complete. All that’s left to do is add it to your tank!\\nA 16 fl oz (470 mL) bottle should just fit over a section of 2 in (5.1 cm) PVC pipe.\\n3-3. Adjust the placement of the skimmer inside your tank for optimal airflow.\\nLower the bottom of the skimmer (the end with the air intake hole) into the tank, then turn the pump back on. As you do, you’ll notice a cascade of bubbles escaping from the mouth of the bottle. Raise or lower the pump a few times until the bubbles begin to appear steadily.\\nYou can also play around with the position of the collection cup instead if you want to go ahead and mount the skimmer, since it’s not fixed.\\n3-4. Mount your skimmer to your tank using the attached suction cups.\\nWhen you’re satisfied with the placement of your skimmer, press the suction cups into the wall of the tank to hold it in place. Use your other hand to brace yourself against the outside of the tank to prevent it from tipping or shifting.\\nThe suction cups will make it easy to remove and reposition your skimmer, if necessary.\\n3-5. Remove and rinse out your collection cup as needed.\\nAfter a few days, you’ll likely notice the water inside the collection cup become cloudy. This means its time to empty it. Slide the cup off the top of the skimmer and pour the dirty water down the drain. Then, wash it out thoroughly with clean water and slide it back on top of the skimmer chamber.\\nIf your collection cup is in need of a more thorough cleaning, soak it in a 10-1 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. The acid will help dissolve algae, mineral deposits, and other stuck-on grime.\\nThe exact frequency of your cleanings will be determined by the volume of your tank and the amount of aquatic life it contains.\\nTips\\nYou can also make a super-sized protein skimmer for extra large tanks using two 2 L (68 fl oz) and 4 in (10 cm) PVC pipe.\\nIf you’re worried about small fish finding their way into the chamber of the skimmer, cut a piece of porous foam to cover the opening.\\nIf you have an especially large aquarium and your skimmer is collecting significant amounts of organic matter, try running a line from the collection cup to a separate overflow tank.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A protein skimmer is a device used to remove organic compounds like food particles, solid waste, and other pollutants from aquariums and fish tanks. You can build your own DIY counter-current skimmer at home using ordinary PVC pipe, a wooden airstone, and some rubber suction cups. Once installed, the skimmer will release small air bubbles into your aquarium that will pull loose particles out of the water and deposit them in the built-in collection cup.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fashioning the Collection Cup\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut two 16 fl oz (470 mL) plastic water bottles in half.\", \"描述\": \"Peel the labels off of both bottles, then remove the lids and empty their contents into the sink (or drink them so you’re not wasting water). Use a pair of scissors to snip the top off of one of the empty bottles where it begins to taper. Do the same to the second bottle, then cut off the bottom end so that it forms a tube.\\nDo your best not to crush or mangle the bottles while you’re cutting them.\\nYou’ll be fitting the water bottles together to create a makeshift collection cup. If you want your collection cup to hold more debris, simply cut the tube piece slightly longer.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fit the upper half of the first bottle into the lower half of the second.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the top piece upside down and slide the neck directly into the tube. Continue pushing the piece in until the bottom edges of both pieces are aligned, or until it won’t go any further. Together, these two bottle pieces will serve as your collection cup.\\nWhen you activate your finished skimmer, stray proteins in the water of your aquarium will be trapped by bubbles generated by your air pump, pulled up through the chamber of your skimmer, and forced out through the mouth of the top bottle piece, where they’ll accumulate on the inside of the tube piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue the two bottle pieces together using aquarium silicone.\", \"描述\": \"Squeeze a dime-sized glob of silicone onto the seam where the edges of the two bottle pieces connect. Use the pad of your finger or another tool, such as a folded paper towel, to spread the silicone into a thin layer.\\nDon’t forget to wash your hands thoroughly with soap and hot water when you’re done to scrub away any traces of silicone.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"\", \"描述\": \"Aquarium silicone is a high-strength type of adhesive that’s designed specifically for bonding underwater. You can pick up a small bottle of aquarium silicone at any pet shop or aquarium supply store for around $3-5.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Allow the silicone to cure for at least 24 hours.\", \"描述\": \"Aquarium silicone usually dries in a matter of minutes. However, it will take closer to a full day for the material to harden completely. At this point, it will be able to provide a waterproof seal.\\nSome aquarium silicone formulas may take up to a full week to cure. Make sure you read the specs on the product you’re using to determine whether it fits the timeframe you've set for your project.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Skimmer Chamber\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut a piece of PVC pipe\", \"描述\": \"To make a skimmer for a standard-sized fish tank that holds 40 gallons (150 L) or less, thin-walled PVC with a 2 in (5.1 cm) diameter will work best. Use a pipe cutter or hacksaw to trim the PVC down to the necessary specifications.\\nYou can also saw through PVC pipe using a length of nylon string if you don’t have access to one of these other tools.\\nCutting your skimmer’s reaction chamber slightly short will allow you to adjust its position once inside the tank to generate the maximum amount of airflow.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill two parallel holes on one side of the PVC.\", \"描述\": \"Set your holes 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) inward from the ends of the pipe. Mark the position of each hole with a pencil, doing your best to line them up as precisely as possible. Bore a clean, straight hole through each marking at a 90-degree angle.\\nYou’ll be fitting these holes with suction cups to mount your finished skimmer to the wall of your fish tank. Select a drill bit slightly smaller than the nubs on the backside of the suction cups, using the specific cups you bought for reference.\\nBe careful not to accidentally drill through the opposite side of the pipe—doing so will render your skimmer inoperable.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a third hole 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) from the end of the other side.\", \"描述\": \"Turn your PVC pipe around and rotate it 180-degrees. Drill an additional hole just above the end of the blank side. This hole will serve as the air intake for your protein skimmer.\\nLater, you’ll use the air intake hole to thread the hose of your airstone, which is a device used to generate tiny bubbles in the water of an aquarium.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Insert rubber suction cups into the two parallel holes.\", \"描述\": \"Align the suction cup nubs with the holes, then press down on them firmly until they’re fully seated. They should fit snugly and stay put, provided you used an appropriately-sized drill bit.\\nAny type of suction cup should do the trick, since your skimmer will be both lightweight and suspended underwater. 22 mm (0.87 in) cups are a fairly standard size.\\nIf you’re worried that your suction cups might pull free of your skimmer or interfere with their airflow, you can seal the edges using your leftover aquarium silicone.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Thread the hose of your airstone through the air intake.\", \"描述\": \"Guide the hose into the open end of the pipe and out through the drilled hole. Continue feeding the hose through until the airstone itself rests inside the pipe. The rest of the hose should extend outside the pipe.\\nKeep in mind that the airstone you use needs to be 2 inches (5.1 cm) or shorter in order to fit inside the PVC tube.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Skimmer\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect your airstone to your submersible aquarium pump.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to switch off your pump before attaching the airstone. The end of the hose opposite the stone should just slide onto the corresponding pump fitting. Some models may need to be secured via a separate valve or latch.\\nRead through the instruction manual for the specific model you’re using to ensure that your airstone is hooked up correctly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Slide your collection cup over the top of the pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve put the collection cup in place, your homemade skimmer will officially be complete. All that’s left to do is add it to your tank!\\nA 16 fl oz (470 mL) bottle should just fit over a section of 2 in (5.1 cm) PVC pipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adjust the placement of the skimmer inside your tank for optimal airflow.\", \"描述\": \"Lower the bottom of the skimmer (the end with the air intake hole) into the tank, then turn the pump back on. As you do, you’ll notice a cascade of bubbles escaping from the mouth of the bottle. Raise or lower the pump a few times until the bubbles begin to appear steadily.\\nYou can also play around with the position of the collection cup instead if you want to go ahead and mount the skimmer, since it’s not fixed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mount your skimmer to your tank using the attached suction cups.\", \"描述\": \"When you’re satisfied with the placement of your skimmer, press the suction cups into the wall of the tank to hold it in place. Use your other hand to brace yourself against the outside of the tank to prevent it from tipping or shifting.\\nThe suction cups will make it easy to remove and reposition your skimmer, if necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Remove and rinse out your collection cup as needed.\", \"描述\": \"After a few days, you’ll likely notice the water inside the collection cup become cloudy. This means its time to empty it. Slide the cup off the top of the skimmer and pour the dirty water down the drain. Then, wash it out thoroughly with clean water and slide it back on top of the skimmer chamber.\\nIf your collection cup is in need of a more thorough cleaning, soak it in a 10-1 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. The acid will help dissolve algae, mineral deposits, and other stuck-on grime.\\nThe exact frequency of your cleanings will be determined by the volume of your tank and the amount of aquatic life it contains.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can also make a super-sized protein skimmer for extra large tanks using two 2 L (68 fl oz) and 4 in (10 cm) PVC pipe.\\n\", \"If you’re worried about small fish finding their way into the chamber of the skimmer, cut a piece of porous foam to cover the opening.\\n\", \"If you have an especially large aquarium and your skimmer is collecting significant amounts of organic matter, try running a line from the collection cup to a separate overflow tank.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,484 |
How to Build a Pulley
|
1. Building a Fixed Pulley
1-1. Cut through the middle of a wire hanger.
Use a pair of scissors or wire cutters to cut through the bottom of a wire hanger. Make sure your cut is directly in the middle of the hanger so you can easily put your spool on. Leave the top of the hanger intact so you can hang it when you use your pulley.
If you don’t have a wire hanger, you can make the axle for your pulley by propping a broomstick between 2 tables or counters instead. Secure it in place by setting a heavy object on one end of the stick.
1-2. Put a thread spool onto the bottom of the hanger and bend it closed.
Gently pry open the cut you made in the hanger and slide a thread spool on it. The size of the spool doesn’t matter as long as it fits onto the hanger. Slide both parts of the hanger through the center of the spool and use pliers to bend the ends into hooks to keep the spool in place.
You can buy a spool from a craft store, or you may reuse one that you already have from thread or twine.
1-3. Hang the pulley system on a rod or dowel.
Look for an open rod or dowel in a closet, or set one up between 2 tables. If you need to, set a weight on top of the rod to prevent it from spinning or moving around. Use the hook on the hanger to hang it on the rod or dowel.
1-4. Loop a string over the top of the pulley.
Cut a piece of string or twine so it’s about twice as long as the distance from the floor to the bottom of the wire hanger. Drape one side of the string over the spool so both sides are the same length.
If you plan on doing a lot of experiments with pulleys, you can tie a small metal hook to one end of the string so it’s easier to hang weights.
You can also use twine if you want your pulley to be slightly stronger.
1-5. Tie weights to one end of the string.
Use things that are lightweight, such as a few washers or a thin textbook, as your weights. Tie the end of the string around your objects so they don’t fall out while you’re lifting them. Let the loose end of your string hang down freely on the other side of the spool. Set the weight on the floor to start your experiment.
Pulleys make your work easier by distributing the weight and forces across the different sides of strings.
Be careful not to choose anything too heavy since it will cause the metal hanger to bend and deform.
1-6. Pull down on one end of the rope to lift up the weight.
Grab the loose end of the string and pull it straight down. The spool will rotate around the hanger and reduce the amount of friction, making it easier to lift the weight on the other side. Tie the loose end of the string to a sturdy object if you want to suspend your weights in the air. Keep trying the pulley with different weights to see how much you can lift.
2. Making a Simple Compound Pulley
2-1. Place 2 cardboard boxes across from one another on a raised surface.
Use 2 boxes that are the same size and thickness, such as cereal or packing boxes. Set the boxes on a flat surface, like a table, so they’re about 5–6 in (13–15 cm) apart. Make sure the edges of the boxes are parallel with one another.
Thicker boxes will be able to support more weight while thinner boxes are more likely to rip while you use your pulley.
2-2. Slide a thread spool onto the middle of a pencil.
Use an old wooden spool or one that you bought from a craft store. Slide a pencil through the center of the spool to create an axle that it can rotate freely around.
You can also buy pulley wheels from your local hardware store if you don’t have any spools.
2-3. Poke 2 sets of holes in the boxes so they’re 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) apart.
Sharpen a different pencil and slowly poke the point through one of the boxes. Make another hole in the second box that lines up with the first hole you made. Make another set of holes 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) from the first set.
2-4. Put both pencils in the holes so they’re perpendicular to the sides of the box.
Feed the eraser end of one of the pencils through the hole in one box and the pointed end in the hole across from it. Then put the pencil with the spool in the other set of holes. Make sure the boxes are spaced about 5–6 inches (13–15 cm) apart and the spool is in the center of the pencil.
Make sure the pencils fit tightly in the sides of the boxes. If it doesn’t, use modeling clay inside the boxes to hold it in place.
2-5. Tie one end of a string to the pencil without the spool.
Cut your string so it’s twice as long as the height of your boxes from the floor. Loop the string around your pencil and tie a knot to secure it in place. Drape the loose end of the string over the spool on the other pencil.
You can also tie the string around the pencil before you put it in the box.
2-6. Slide a paperclip onto the string so it’s between the 2 pencils.
Feed the other end of your string through the center loop of the paperclip. Keep sliding the paper clip down the string until it’s between the 2 pencils. Let the paper clip rest on the table surface for now.
If you don’t want the paperclip to move around, you can tie a knot in the string to secure it in place.
2-7. Hang a small load on the paper clip.
Bend open the paperclip to form a small hook and slide a few small weights on it, such as washers or metal beads. Make sure the weight rests on the table surface and isn’t suspended in the air.
Try using the same size weight that you used on your simple pulley so you can compare the difference between the 2 of them.
Heavier weights may rip through the boxes or break the string.
2-8. Pull the string over the spool to lift the load.
The spool will rotate around the pencil and make the weight easier to lift. Since the other end of your string is tied to the pencil, you will use half the force that it would take to lift it with a single pulley.
Because the weight is distributed between the string and the spool, you can move the weight twice as far with the half the amount of force.
You can add more spools and pencils to make lifting the weight easier.
Warnings
Be careful while handling the cut ends of a wire hanger since they may be sharp and could hurt you.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:56",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Fixed Pulley\\n1-1. Cut through the middle of a wire hanger.\\nUse a pair of scissors or wire cutters to cut through the bottom of a wire hanger. Make sure your cut is directly in the middle of the hanger so you can easily put your spool on. Leave the top of the hanger intact so you can hang it when you use your pulley.\\nIf you don’t have a wire hanger, you can make the axle for your pulley by propping a broomstick between 2 tables or counters instead. Secure it in place by setting a heavy object on one end of the stick.\\n1-2. Put a thread spool onto the bottom of the hanger and bend it closed.\\nGently pry open the cut you made in the hanger and slide a thread spool on it. The size of the spool doesn’t matter as long as it fits onto the hanger. Slide both parts of the hanger through the center of the spool and use pliers to bend the ends into hooks to keep the spool in place.\\nYou can buy a spool from a craft store, or you may reuse one that you already have from thread or twine.\\n1-3. Hang the pulley system on a rod or dowel.\\nLook for an open rod or dowel in a closet, or set one up between 2 tables. If you need to, set a weight on top of the rod to prevent it from spinning or moving around. Use the hook on the hanger to hang it on the rod or dowel.\\n1-4. Loop a string over the top of the pulley.\\nCut a piece of string or twine so it’s about twice as long as the distance from the floor to the bottom of the wire hanger. Drape one side of the string over the spool so both sides are the same length.\\nIf you plan on doing a lot of experiments with pulleys, you can tie a small metal hook to one end of the string so it’s easier to hang weights.\\nYou can also use twine if you want your pulley to be slightly stronger.\\n1-5. Tie weights to one end of the string.\\nUse things that are lightweight, such as a few washers or a thin textbook, as your weights. Tie the end of the string around your objects so they don’t fall out while you’re lifting them. Let the loose end of your string hang down freely on the other side of the spool. Set the weight on the floor to start your experiment.\\nPulleys make your work easier by distributing the weight and forces across the different sides of strings.\\nBe careful not to choose anything too heavy since it will cause the metal hanger to bend and deform.\\n1-6. Pull down on one end of the rope to lift up the weight.\\nGrab the loose end of the string and pull it straight down. The spool will rotate around the hanger and reduce the amount of friction, making it easier to lift the weight on the other side. Tie the loose end of the string to a sturdy object if you want to suspend your weights in the air. Keep trying the pulley with different weights to see how much you can lift.\\n2. Making a Simple Compound Pulley\\n2-1. Place 2 cardboard boxes across from one another on a raised surface.\\nUse 2 boxes that are the same size and thickness, such as cereal or packing boxes. Set the boxes on a flat surface, like a table, so they’re about 5–6 in (13–15 cm) apart. Make sure the edges of the boxes are parallel with one another.\\nThicker boxes will be able to support more weight while thinner boxes are more likely to rip while you use your pulley.\\n2-2. Slide a thread spool onto the middle of a pencil.\\nUse an old wooden spool or one that you bought from a craft store. Slide a pencil through the center of the spool to create an axle that it can rotate freely around.\\nYou can also buy pulley wheels from your local hardware store if you don’t have any spools.\\n2-3. Poke 2 sets of holes in the boxes so they’re 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) apart.\\nSharpen a different pencil and slowly poke the point through one of the boxes. Make another hole in the second box that lines up with the first hole you made. Make another set of holes 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) from the first set.\\n2-4. Put both pencils in the holes so they’re perpendicular to the sides of the box.\\nFeed the eraser end of one of the pencils through the hole in one box and the pointed end in the hole across from it. Then put the pencil with the spool in the other set of holes. Make sure the boxes are spaced about 5–6 inches (13–15 cm) apart and the spool is in the center of the pencil.\\nMake sure the pencils fit tightly in the sides of the boxes. If it doesn’t, use modeling clay inside the boxes to hold it in place.\\n2-5. Tie one end of a string to the pencil without the spool.\\nCut your string so it’s twice as long as the height of your boxes from the floor. Loop the string around your pencil and tie a knot to secure it in place. Drape the loose end of the string over the spool on the other pencil.\\nYou can also tie the string around the pencil before you put it in the box.\\n2-6. Slide a paperclip onto the string so it’s between the 2 pencils.\\nFeed the other end of your string through the center loop of the paperclip. Keep sliding the paper clip down the string until it’s between the 2 pencils. Let the paper clip rest on the table surface for now.\\nIf you don’t want the paperclip to move around, you can tie a knot in the string to secure it in place.\\n2-7. Hang a small load on the paper clip.\\nBend open the paperclip to form a small hook and slide a few small weights on it, such as washers or metal beads. Make sure the weight rests on the table surface and isn’t suspended in the air.\\nTry using the same size weight that you used on your simple pulley so you can compare the difference between the 2 of them.\\nHeavier weights may rip through the boxes or break the string.\\n2-8. Pull the string over the spool to lift the load.\\nThe spool will rotate around the pencil and make the weight easier to lift. Since the other end of your string is tied to the pencil, you will use half the force that it would take to lift it with a single pulley.\\nBecause the weight is distributed between the string and the spool, you can move the weight twice as far with the half the amount of force.\\nYou can add more spools and pencils to make lifting the weight easier.\\nWarnings\\nBe careful while handling the cut ends of a wire hanger since they may be sharp and could hurt you.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pulleys are simple machines that make lifting heavy objects easier. They distribute weight to reduce the amount of force it takes to lift something up. With a compound pulley, you can lift an object using half the force it takes to lift the same object with a simple pulley. You can easily make either type of pulley using a few simple objects around your home!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Fixed Pulley\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut through the middle of a wire hanger.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pair of scissors or wire cutters to cut through the bottom of a wire hanger. Make sure your cut is directly in the middle of the hanger so you can easily put your spool on. Leave the top of the hanger intact so you can hang it when you use your pulley.\\nIf you don’t have a wire hanger, you can make the axle for your pulley by propping a broomstick between 2 tables or counters instead. Secure it in place by setting a heavy object on one end of the stick.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put a thread spool onto the bottom of the hanger and bend it closed.\", \"描述\": \"Gently pry open the cut you made in the hanger and slide a thread spool on it. The size of the spool doesn’t matter as long as it fits onto the hanger. Slide both parts of the hanger through the center of the spool and use pliers to bend the ends into hooks to keep the spool in place.\\nYou can buy a spool from a craft store, or you may reuse one that you already have from thread or twine.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hang the pulley system on a rod or dowel.\", \"描述\": \"Look for an open rod or dowel in a closet, or set one up between 2 tables. If you need to, set a weight on top of the rod to prevent it from spinning or moving around. Use the hook on the hanger to hang it on the rod or dowel.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Loop a string over the top of the pulley.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a piece of string or twine so it’s about twice as long as the distance from the floor to the bottom of the wire hanger. Drape one side of the string over the spool so both sides are the same length.\\nIf you plan on doing a lot of experiments with pulleys, you can tie a small metal hook to one end of the string so it’s easier to hang weights.\\nYou can also use twine if you want your pulley to be slightly stronger.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tie weights to one end of the string.\", \"描述\": \"Use things that are lightweight, such as a few washers or a thin textbook, as your weights. Tie the end of the string around your objects so they don’t fall out while you’re lifting them. Let the loose end of your string hang down freely on the other side of the spool. Set the weight on the floor to start your experiment.\\nPulleys make your work easier by distributing the weight and forces across the different sides of strings.\\nBe careful not to choose anything too heavy since it will cause the metal hanger to bend and deform.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pull down on one end of the rope to lift up the weight.\", \"描述\": \"Grab the loose end of the string and pull it straight down. The spool will rotate around the hanger and reduce the amount of friction, making it easier to lift the weight on the other side. Tie the loose end of the string to a sturdy object if you want to suspend your weights in the air. Keep trying the pulley with different weights to see how much you can lift.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Simple Compound Pulley\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place 2 cardboard boxes across from one another on a raised surface.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2 boxes that are the same size and thickness, such as cereal or packing boxes. Set the boxes on a flat surface, like a table, so they’re about 5–6 in (13–15 cm) apart. Make sure the edges of the boxes are parallel with one another.\\nThicker boxes will be able to support more weight while thinner boxes are more likely to rip while you use your pulley.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Slide a thread spool onto the middle of a pencil.\", \"描述\": \"Use an old wooden spool or one that you bought from a craft store. Slide a pencil through the center of the spool to create an axle that it can rotate freely around.\\nYou can also buy pulley wheels from your local hardware store if you don’t have any spools.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Poke 2 sets of holes in the boxes so they’re 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) apart.\", \"描述\": \"Sharpen a different pencil and slowly poke the point through one of the boxes. Make another hole in the second box that lines up with the first hole you made. Make another set of holes 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) from the first set.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put both pencils in the holes so they’re perpendicular to the sides of the box.\", \"描述\": \"Feed the eraser end of one of the pencils through the hole in one box and the pointed end in the hole across from it. Then put the pencil with the spool in the other set of holes. Make sure the boxes are spaced about 5–6 inches (13–15 cm) apart and the spool is in the center of the pencil.\\nMake sure the pencils fit tightly in the sides of the boxes. If it doesn’t, use modeling clay inside the boxes to hold it in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tie one end of a string to the pencil without the spool.\", \"描述\": \"Cut your string so it’s twice as long as the height of your boxes from the floor. Loop the string around your pencil and tie a knot to secure it in place. Drape the loose end of the string over the spool on the other pencil.\\nYou can also tie the string around the pencil before you put it in the box.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Slide a paperclip onto the string so it’s between the 2 pencils.\", \"描述\": \"Feed the other end of your string through the center loop of the paperclip. Keep sliding the paper clip down the string until it’s between the 2 pencils. Let the paper clip rest on the table surface for now.\\nIf you don’t want the paperclip to move around, you can tie a knot in the string to secure it in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Hang a small load on the paper clip.\", \"描述\": \"Bend open the paperclip to form a small hook and slide a few small weights on it, such as washers or metal beads. Make sure the weight rests on the table surface and isn’t suspended in the air.\\nTry using the same size weight that you used on your simple pulley so you can compare the difference between the 2 of them.\\nHeavier weights may rip through the boxes or break the string.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Pull the string over the spool to lift the load.\", \"描述\": \"The spool will rotate around the pencil and make the weight easier to lift. Since the other end of your string is tied to the pencil, you will use half the force that it would take to lift it with a single pulley.\\nBecause the weight is distributed between the string and the spool, you can move the weight twice as far with the half the amount of force.\\nYou can add more spools and pencils to make lifting the weight easier.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful while handling the cut ends of a wire hanger since they may be sharp and could hurt you.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,485 |
How to Build a Pullup Bar
|
1. Installing an Outdoor Bar
1-1. Get pressure-treated wood posts and a steel pipe.
To make the stands that will support the pull-up bar, get a pair of 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) posts about 10 ft (3.0 m) in length. Make sure they’re pressure-treated so they resist rotting. Then, get a galvanized steel pipe about 4 ft (1.2 m) long to fit between the posts.
The length of these items will vary depending on your needs. For example, choose longer posts to give yourself more ground clearance.
Most home improvement stores will cut these items for you if you ask. If you have the proper hand saws, you can also cut them to size yourself.
1-2. Dig a pair of 3 ft (0.91 m) deep holes in your yard.
Space the holes 4 ft (1.2 m) apart, or the length of the steel bar you plan on using for your pull-up bar. Make each hole big enough to hold a 5 US gal (19 L) plastic bucket. Set buckets inside the holes to test their size. The buckets will fit snugly inside the holes when they are the right size.
Make the holes roughly the same diameter and depth so the pull-up bar is level later.
1-3. Drill
Measure 4 in (10 cm) down from the top end of each post and mark the spot with a pencil. Then, use an electric drill with a 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) bit to create a hole barely wider than the diameter of the steel bar. Drill all the way through both posts.
To keep the posts sturdy, leave at least 2 in (5.1 cm) between their top ends and the holes.
1-4. Thread the steel bar through the posts.
Lay the posts down flat on the ground and slide the steel bar through the holes you made. Make sure the posts are spaced about 4 ft (1.2 m) apart, wide enough for the bar’s ends to barely emerge from the posts.
Another option is to use metal posts and elbow joints. Replace the wood posts with a pair of equally-sized metal pipes. Thread them into 90-degree elbow joints with clockwise twists. The pull-up bar fits into the opposite ends of the joints.
1-5. Connect the pull-up bar to a pair of metal flanges.
Flanges are small connector disks with a series of holes for screws, making them a great way to anchor a metal bar to wood mounts. Slide a single flange onto each end of the bar, twisting them clockwise until they rest against the outside part of each wood post. Position the flanges so their flatter side is against the wood.
Flanges have slightly different sides. Make sure the flanges are flush with the wood so they connect properly.
If your bar is short, forgo drilling holes through the posts. Instead, set a flange on the inside portion of each post. Secure them in place, then thread the bar into them by turning it clockwise.
1-6. Screw the flanges to the wood posts.
Hold the flanges firmly against the wood. Note the series of screw holes on them and mark these on the wood posts with a pencil. Then, pre-drill the holes with a 1 ⁄8 in (3.5 cm) drill bit. Finish by securing the flanges with 3 in (7.6 cm) galvanized wood screws placed in each hole.
1-7. Mix 2 batches of concrete in separate plastic buckets.
Choose 2 big mixing buckets you don’t mind burying. The buckets need to be about 1 ft (0.30 m) and 3 ft (0.91 m) deep. Use about 1 bag of 80 lb (36 kg) concrete mix for each bucket. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the concrete with water to the proper consistency.
The buckets give the bar more stability. If you put the concrete directly into the ground, it may shift over time.
Putting the posts directly in the ground is possible if you brace them with stones or other objects. Set the posts in the holes, then surround them with large objects that aren’t easy to move.
1-8. Put the buckets of concrete in the ground and install the bar.
Set the buckets in the holes you dug earlier. Center them in the holes and test them with a carpenter’s level as needed to position them as evenly as possible. Then, lift up the pull-up bar and plant the wood posts in the middle of each bucket.
Have someone help you pick up the bar in order to plant the posts perfectly in the center of each bucket.
1-9. Check the bar with a level as you wait for the concrete to dry.
Hold a carpenter’s level against the top edge of the pull-up bar. When the bar is level, the liquid in the tool will stay centered. Adjust the bar as needed, then give the concrete plenty of time to dry before trying it out.
The concrete takes about 24 hours to dry. Give it plenty of time to settle before putting weight on the bar.
2. Creating an Indoor Bar
2-1. Thread steel pipes into 90-degree elbow joints.
Start with a pair of 18 in (46 cm), ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wide galvanized steel pipes and ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wide 90-degree elbow joints. Set an elbow joint on each pipe. Twist the pipes clockwise until they are solidly threaded inside the joints.
These pipes and joints connect the pull-up bar to the wall. They need to be relatively short in order to make the bar stable.
2-2. Fit a longer steel pipe into the elbow joints.
A bar about 48 in (120 cm) long and ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wide will give you plenty of space to do pull-ups in your home. Set the bar into 1 of the joints, turning it clockwise by hand to secure it. Then, fit the other joint on the bar’s opposite end.
Adjust your pull-up bar by using pipes of different lengths. For instance, choose a shorter bar if you don’t have space for the 48 in (120 cm) bar.
2-3. Attach flanges to the ends of the shorter bars.
Get a pair of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) thick metal flanges, which you will need to fasten the bars in place on the wall or ceiling. Place a flange on the free end of each of the 18 in (46 cm) bars, turning it clockwise to thread it. Make sure the flatter ends of the flanges face away from the bars.
Flanges are available at most home improvement stores. Choose flanges that have 4 screw holes and fit the diameter of the longer bar.
2-4. Test the bar with a carpenter’s level to gauge its evenness.
Set the bar on the floor with the flanges flat on the ground. Set a carpenter’s level on top of the bar. Watch for the fluid in the middle of the level to move to 1 side, indicating that the pull-up bar is uneven. Continue twisting the bars into the flanges and elbow joints until they are all threaded evenly.
The bars need to be threaded evenly into the flanges and fittings. You most likely will need to make a few adjustments to get everything perfect.
Ensure the elbow joints are well-connected by attempting to turn them clockwise with a pipe. The joints will tighten but not move out of position.
2-5. Locate the support beams or studs where you wish to install the bar.
The easiest way to find the studs is with an electronic stud finder. Hold the stud finder up to the wall or ceiling. It scans walls to find the weight-bearing beams in the walls of your home.
The pull-up bar has to be installed on studs or support beams. These beams are the framework of your home, so they are strong enough to withstand the extra weight. If you don’t use them, you will rip the pull out bar out of the wall as soon as you lean on it.
2-6. Mark the locations of the studs and holes on the wood support.
You will need a 2 ft × 6 ft (0.61 m × 1.83 m) piece of wood about 8 ft (2.4 m) long. Hold the board up against the wall, over the studs you located earlier. Plan on using 2 or 3 screws per stud, positioning the holes about every 2 in (5.1 cm) along the board’s width.
Hold the bar against the board before you finalize the measurements. Make sure the flanges don’t cover the spots where you need to screw the board to the studs.
If you’re working on a brick or concrete wall, you have more freedom when placing your bar. You don’t need to find studs. Place the bar wherever you want it in the room.
2-7. Attach the flanges to the board with wood lag screws.
Mark the screw holes in the flanges on the board, then pre-drill them with a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) drill bit. Line the pre-drilled holes up with the screw holes on the flanges. Set a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wood lag screw in each hole and use a socket wrench to secure them to the board.
Check the pull-up bar to make sure it looks level and firmly attached to the board before moving on.
2-8. Connect the wood board to the wall or ceiling.
To finish installing your pull-up bar, place the board over the studs again. Using a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) drill bit, drill into the positioning marks you made earlier. Then, fasten the board to the wall with about 8 lag screws 31 in (79 cm) long and ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) wide. Space the screws about 2 in (5.1 cm) and use a socket wrench to secure them in place.
For concrete or brick walls, use a masonry drill bit to drill into the ball. Hold the pull-up bar to the wall with concrete lag anchors and lag bolts.
Test the pull-up bar to make sure it’s strong and level. Undo the screws as needed to readjust the positioning.
Tips
Expand your pull-up bar as needed for other exercises. For example, build a pair of parallel bars for dipping exercises. You build them the same way as the outdoor pull-up bar, connecting the bars to the original posts and 2 more 5 ft (1.5 m) high posts.
Design your pull-up bar according to your needs. Use longer posts if you're tall, for instance, or install a longer bar to give yourself more grip space.
Warnings
Installing a pull-up bar incorrectly in your home can cause a lot of damage. Make sure you know where the studs are and drill into them carefully. Also, get permission to attach a bar to the wall if you live in an apartment.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:56",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Installing an Outdoor Bar\\n1-1. Get pressure-treated wood posts and a steel pipe.\\nTo make the stands that will support the pull-up bar, get a pair of 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) posts about 10 ft (3.0 m) in length. Make sure they’re pressure-treated so they resist rotting. Then, get a galvanized steel pipe about 4 ft (1.2 m) long to fit between the posts.\\nThe length of these items will vary depending on your needs. For example, choose longer posts to give yourself more ground clearance.\\nMost home improvement stores will cut these items for you if you ask. If you have the proper hand saws, you can also cut them to size yourself.\\n1-2. Dig a pair of 3 ft (0.91 m) deep holes in your yard.\\nSpace the holes 4 ft (1.2 m) apart, or the length of the steel bar you plan on using for your pull-up bar. Make each hole big enough to hold a 5 US gal (19 L) plastic bucket. Set buckets inside the holes to test their size. The buckets will fit snugly inside the holes when they are the right size.\\nMake the holes roughly the same diameter and depth so the pull-up bar is level later.\\n1-3. Drill\\nMeasure 4 in (10 cm) down from the top end of each post and mark the spot with a pencil. Then, use an electric drill with a 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) bit to create a hole barely wider than the diameter of the steel bar. Drill all the way through both posts.\\nTo keep the posts sturdy, leave at least 2 in (5.1 cm) between their top ends and the holes.\\n1-4. Thread the steel bar through the posts.\\nLay the posts down flat on the ground and slide the steel bar through the holes you made. Make sure the posts are spaced about 4 ft (1.2 m) apart, wide enough for the bar’s ends to barely emerge from the posts.\\nAnother option is to use metal posts and elbow joints. Replace the wood posts with a pair of equally-sized metal pipes. Thread them into 90-degree elbow joints with clockwise twists. The pull-up bar fits into the opposite ends of the joints.\\n1-5. Connect the pull-up bar to a pair of metal flanges.\\nFlanges are small connector disks with a series of holes for screws, making them a great way to anchor a metal bar to wood mounts. Slide a single flange onto each end of the bar, twisting them clockwise until they rest against the outside part of each wood post. Position the flanges so their flatter side is against the wood.\\nFlanges have slightly different sides. Make sure the flanges are flush with the wood so they connect properly.\\nIf your bar is short, forgo drilling holes through the posts. Instead, set a flange on the inside portion of each post. Secure them in place, then thread the bar into them by turning it clockwise.\\n1-6. Screw the flanges to the wood posts.\\nHold the flanges firmly against the wood. Note the series of screw holes on them and mark these on the wood posts with a pencil. Then, pre-drill the holes with a 1 ⁄8 in (3.5 cm) drill bit. Finish by securing the flanges with 3 in (7.6 cm) galvanized wood screws placed in each hole.\\n1-7. Mix 2 batches of concrete in separate plastic buckets.\\nChoose 2 big mixing buckets you don’t mind burying. The buckets need to be about 1 ft (0.30 m) and 3 ft (0.91 m) deep. Use about 1 bag of 80 lb (36 kg) concrete mix for each bucket. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the concrete with water to the proper consistency.\\nThe buckets give the bar more stability. If you put the concrete directly into the ground, it may shift over time.\\nPutting the posts directly in the ground is possible if you brace them with stones or other objects. Set the posts in the holes, then surround them with large objects that aren’t easy to move.\\n1-8. Put the buckets of concrete in the ground and install the bar.\\nSet the buckets in the holes you dug earlier. Center them in the holes and test them with a carpenter’s level as needed to position them as evenly as possible. Then, lift up the pull-up bar and plant the wood posts in the middle of each bucket.\\nHave someone help you pick up the bar in order to plant the posts perfectly in the center of each bucket.\\n1-9. Check the bar with a level as you wait for the concrete to dry.\\nHold a carpenter’s level against the top edge of the pull-up bar. When the bar is level, the liquid in the tool will stay centered. Adjust the bar as needed, then give the concrete plenty of time to dry before trying it out.\\nThe concrete takes about 24 hours to dry. Give it plenty of time to settle before putting weight on the bar.\\n2. Creating an Indoor Bar\\n2-1. Thread steel pipes into 90-degree elbow joints.\\nStart with a pair of 18 in (46 cm), ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wide galvanized steel pipes and ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wide 90-degree elbow joints. Set an elbow joint on each pipe. Twist the pipes clockwise until they are solidly threaded inside the joints.\\nThese pipes and joints connect the pull-up bar to the wall. They need to be relatively short in order to make the bar stable.\\n2-2. Fit a longer steel pipe into the elbow joints.\\nA bar about 48 in (120 cm) long and ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wide will give you plenty of space to do pull-ups in your home. Set the bar into 1 of the joints, turning it clockwise by hand to secure it. Then, fit the other joint on the bar’s opposite end.\\nAdjust your pull-up bar by using pipes of different lengths. For instance, choose a shorter bar if you don’t have space for the 48 in (120 cm) bar.\\n2-3. Attach flanges to the ends of the shorter bars.\\nGet a pair of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) thick metal flanges, which you will need to fasten the bars in place on the wall or ceiling. Place a flange on the free end of each of the 18 in (46 cm) bars, turning it clockwise to thread it. Make sure the flatter ends of the flanges face away from the bars.\\nFlanges are available at most home improvement stores. Choose flanges that have 4 screw holes and fit the diameter of the longer bar.\\n2-4. Test the bar with a carpenter’s level to gauge its evenness.\\nSet the bar on the floor with the flanges flat on the ground. Set a carpenter’s level on top of the bar. Watch for the fluid in the middle of the level to move to 1 side, indicating that the pull-up bar is uneven. Continue twisting the bars into the flanges and elbow joints until they are all threaded evenly.\\nThe bars need to be threaded evenly into the flanges and fittings. You most likely will need to make a few adjustments to get everything perfect.\\nEnsure the elbow joints are well-connected by attempting to turn them clockwise with a pipe. The joints will tighten but not move out of position.\\n2-5. Locate the support beams or studs where you wish to install the bar.\\nThe easiest way to find the studs is with an electronic stud finder. Hold the stud finder up to the wall or ceiling. It scans walls to find the weight-bearing beams in the walls of your home.\\nThe pull-up bar has to be installed on studs or support beams. These beams are the framework of your home, so they are strong enough to withstand the extra weight. If you don’t use them, you will rip the pull out bar out of the wall as soon as you lean on it.\\n2-6. Mark the locations of the studs and holes on the wood support.\\nYou will need a 2 ft × 6 ft (0.61 m × 1.83 m) piece of wood about 8 ft (2.4 m) long. Hold the board up against the wall, over the studs you located earlier. Plan on using 2 or 3 screws per stud, positioning the holes about every 2 in (5.1 cm) along the board’s width.\\nHold the bar against the board before you finalize the measurements. Make sure the flanges don’t cover the spots where you need to screw the board to the studs.\\nIf you’re working on a brick or concrete wall, you have more freedom when placing your bar. You don’t need to find studs. Place the bar wherever you want it in the room.\\n2-7. Attach the flanges to the board with wood lag screws.\\nMark the screw holes in the flanges on the board, then pre-drill them with a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) drill bit. Line the pre-drilled holes up with the screw holes on the flanges. Set a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wood lag screw in each hole and use a socket wrench to secure them to the board.\\nCheck the pull-up bar to make sure it looks level and firmly attached to the board before moving on.\\n2-8. Connect the wood board to the wall or ceiling.\\nTo finish installing your pull-up bar, place the board over the studs again. Using a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) drill bit, drill into the positioning marks you made earlier. Then, fasten the board to the wall with about 8 lag screws 31 in (79 cm) long and ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) wide. Space the screws about 2 in (5.1 cm) and use a socket wrench to secure them in place.\\nFor concrete or brick walls, use a masonry drill bit to drill into the ball. Hold the pull-up bar to the wall with concrete lag anchors and lag bolts.\\nTest the pull-up bar to make sure it’s strong and level. Undo the screws as needed to readjust the positioning.\\nTips\\nExpand your pull-up bar as needed for other exercises. For example, build a pair of parallel bars for dipping exercises. You build them the same way as the outdoor pull-up bar, connecting the bars to the original posts and 2 more 5 ft (1.5 m) high posts.\\nDesign your pull-up bar according to your needs. Use longer posts if you're tall, for instance, or install a longer bar to give yourself more grip space.\\nWarnings\\nInstalling a pull-up bar incorrectly in your home can cause a lot of damage. Make sure you know where the studs are and drill into them carefully. Also, get permission to attach a bar to the wall if you live in an apartment.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pull-ups are one of the best arm and back exercises, but you need a bar to do them. Fortunately, making your own pull-up bar isn’t a complicated process. The easiest way to build a strong bar is outdoors in your yard with a couple of wood posts. If you have space inside your home, securing steel pipes to studs in the wall or ceiling is also a possibility.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Installing an Outdoor Bar\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get pressure-treated wood posts and a steel pipe.\", \"描述\": \"To make the stands that will support the pull-up bar, get a pair of 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) posts about 10 ft (3.0 m) in length. Make sure they’re pressure-treated so they resist rotting. Then, get a galvanized steel pipe about 4 ft (1.2 m) long to fit between the posts.\\nThe length of these items will vary depending on your needs. For example, choose longer posts to give yourself more ground clearance.\\nMost home improvement stores will cut these items for you if you ask. If you have the proper hand saws, you can also cut them to size yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig a pair of 3 ft (0.91 m) deep holes in your yard.\", \"描述\": \"Space the holes 4 ft (1.2 m) apart, or the length of the steel bar you plan on using for your pull-up bar. Make each hole big enough to hold a 5 US gal (19 L) plastic bucket. Set buckets inside the holes to test their size. The buckets will fit snugly inside the holes when they are the right size.\\nMake the holes roughly the same diameter and depth so the pull-up bar is level later.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill\", \"描述\": \"Measure 4 in (10 cm) down from the top end of each post and mark the spot with a pencil. Then, use an electric drill with a 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) bit to create a hole barely wider than the diameter of the steel bar. Drill all the way through both posts.\\nTo keep the posts sturdy, leave at least 2 in (5.1 cm) between their top ends and the holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Thread the steel bar through the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the posts down flat on the ground and slide the steel bar through the holes you made. Make sure the posts are spaced about 4 ft (1.2 m) apart, wide enough for the bar’s ends to barely emerge from the posts.\\nAnother option is to use metal posts and elbow joints. Replace the wood posts with a pair of equally-sized metal pipes. Thread them into 90-degree elbow joints with clockwise twists. The pull-up bar fits into the opposite ends of the joints.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect the pull-up bar to a pair of metal flanges.\", \"描述\": \"Flanges are small connector disks with a series of holes for screws, making them a great way to anchor a metal bar to wood mounts. Slide a single flange onto each end of the bar, twisting them clockwise until they rest against the outside part of each wood post. Position the flanges so their flatter side is against the wood.\\nFlanges have slightly different sides. Make sure the flanges are flush with the wood so they connect properly.\\nIf your bar is short, forgo drilling holes through the posts. Instead, set a flange on the inside portion of each post. Secure them in place, then thread the bar into them by turning it clockwise.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Screw the flanges to the wood posts.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the flanges firmly against the wood. Note the series of screw holes on them and mark these on the wood posts with a pencil. Then, pre-drill the holes with a 1 ⁄8 in (3.5 cm) drill bit. Finish by securing the flanges with 3 in (7.6 cm) galvanized wood screws placed in each hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Mix 2 batches of concrete in separate plastic buckets.\", \"描述\": \"Choose 2 big mixing buckets you don’t mind burying. The buckets need to be about 1 ft (0.30 m) and 3 ft (0.91 m) deep. Use about 1 bag of 80 lb (36 kg) concrete mix for each bucket. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the concrete with water to the proper consistency.\\nThe buckets give the bar more stability. If you put the concrete directly into the ground, it may shift over time.\\nPutting the posts directly in the ground is possible if you brace them with stones or other objects. Set the posts in the holes, then surround them with large objects that aren’t easy to move.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Put the buckets of concrete in the ground and install the bar.\", \"描述\": \"Set the buckets in the holes you dug earlier. Center them in the holes and test them with a carpenter’s level as needed to position them as evenly as possible. Then, lift up the pull-up bar and plant the wood posts in the middle of each bucket.\\nHave someone help you pick up the bar in order to plant the posts perfectly in the center of each bucket.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Check the bar with a level as you wait for the concrete to dry.\", \"描述\": \"Hold a carpenter’s level against the top edge of the pull-up bar. When the bar is level, the liquid in the tool will stay centered. Adjust the bar as needed, then give the concrete plenty of time to dry before trying it out.\\nThe concrete takes about 24 hours to dry. Give it plenty of time to settle before putting weight on the bar.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating an Indoor Bar\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Thread steel pipes into 90-degree elbow joints.\", \"描述\": \"Start with a pair of 18 in (46 cm), ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wide galvanized steel pipes and ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wide 90-degree elbow joints. Set an elbow joint on each pipe. Twist the pipes clockwise until they are solidly threaded inside the joints.\\nThese pipes and joints connect the pull-up bar to the wall. They need to be relatively short in order to make the bar stable.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fit a longer steel pipe into the elbow joints.\", \"描述\": \"A bar about 48 in (120 cm) long and ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wide will give you plenty of space to do pull-ups in your home. Set the bar into 1 of the joints, turning it clockwise by hand to secure it. Then, fit the other joint on the bar’s opposite end.\\nAdjust your pull-up bar by using pipes of different lengths. For instance, choose a shorter bar if you don’t have space for the 48 in (120 cm) bar.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach flanges to the ends of the shorter bars.\", \"描述\": \"Get a pair of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) thick metal flanges, which you will need to fasten the bars in place on the wall or ceiling. Place a flange on the free end of each of the 18 in (46 cm) bars, turning it clockwise to thread it. Make sure the flatter ends of the flanges face away from the bars.\\nFlanges are available at most home improvement stores. Choose flanges that have 4 screw holes and fit the diameter of the longer bar.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Test the bar with a carpenter’s level to gauge its evenness.\", \"描述\": \"Set the bar on the floor with the flanges flat on the ground. Set a carpenter’s level on top of the bar. Watch for the fluid in the middle of the level to move to 1 side, indicating that the pull-up bar is uneven. Continue twisting the bars into the flanges and elbow joints until they are all threaded evenly.\\nThe bars need to be threaded evenly into the flanges and fittings. You most likely will need to make a few adjustments to get everything perfect.\\nEnsure the elbow joints are well-connected by attempting to turn them clockwise with a pipe. The joints will tighten but not move out of position.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Locate the support beams or studs where you wish to install the bar.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest way to find the studs is with an electronic stud finder. Hold the stud finder up to the wall or ceiling. It scans walls to find the weight-bearing beams in the walls of your home.\\nThe pull-up bar has to be installed on studs or support beams. These beams are the framework of your home, so they are strong enough to withstand the extra weight. If you don’t use them, you will rip the pull out bar out of the wall as soon as you lean on it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Mark the locations of the studs and holes on the wood support.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a 2 ft × 6 ft (0.61 m × 1.83 m) piece of wood about 8 ft (2.4 m) long. Hold the board up against the wall, over the studs you located earlier. Plan on using 2 or 3 screws per stud, positioning the holes about every 2 in (5.1 cm) along the board’s width.\\nHold the bar against the board before you finalize the measurements. Make sure the flanges don’t cover the spots where you need to screw the board to the studs.\\nIf you’re working on a brick or concrete wall, you have more freedom when placing your bar. You don’t need to find studs. Place the bar wherever you want it in the room.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the flanges to the board with wood lag screws.\", \"描述\": \"Mark the screw holes in the flanges on the board, then pre-drill them with a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) drill bit. Line the pre-drilled holes up with the screw holes on the flanges. Set a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) wood lag screw in each hole and use a socket wrench to secure them to the board.\\nCheck the pull-up bar to make sure it looks level and firmly attached to the board before moving on.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Connect the wood board to the wall or ceiling.\", \"描述\": \"To finish installing your pull-up bar, place the board over the studs again. Using a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) drill bit, drill into the positioning marks you made earlier. Then, fasten the board to the wall with about 8 lag screws 31 in (79 cm) long and ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) wide. Space the screws about 2 in (5.1 cm) and use a socket wrench to secure them in place.\\nFor concrete or brick walls, use a masonry drill bit to drill into the ball. Hold the pull-up bar to the wall with concrete lag anchors and lag bolts.\\nTest the pull-up bar to make sure it’s strong and level. Undo the screws as needed to readjust the positioning.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Expand your pull-up bar as needed for other exercises. For example, build a pair of parallel bars for dipping exercises. You build them the same way as the outdoor pull-up bar, connecting the bars to the original posts and 2 more 5 ft (1.5 m) high posts.\\n\", \"Design your pull-up bar according to your needs. Use longer posts if you're tall, for instance, or install a longer bar to give yourself more grip space.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Installing a pull-up bar incorrectly in your home can cause a lot of damage. Make sure you know where the studs are and drill into them carefully. Also, get permission to attach a bar to the wall if you live in an apartment.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,486 |
How to Build a Puzzle Box
|
1. Steps
1-1. Gather your tools and materials.
You may also need the plans that provide dimensions and layout
1-2. Start with the top level.
Use these views when referring to the parts in the steps below.
Note that all dimensions are for a perfect fit. Sanding will be required to prevent interference.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/c\/cf\/Puzzle-box-exploded.png\/460px-Puzzle-box-exploded.png","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/c\/cf\/Puzzle-box-exploded.png\/717px-Puzzle-box-exploded.png","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":359,"bigWidth":718,"bigHeight":560,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
1-3. Build the box top and bottom.
Cut top and bottom - each is 3 1/2" x 9 3/4".
Add 2 grooves to each piece 1 1/8" from each side. I used a table saw which has a 1/16" thick blade. The grooves should be 1/8" deep.
Cut corner block off each side. The cuts should line up with the start of the groove and run 1" into the board. You can use a band saw for this cut.
Save blocks since they will be used later. Also, add a reference note in pencil on each block to match up to the correct side.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/f\/f7\/Pic4-1.png\/460px-Pic4-1.png","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/f\/f7\/Pic4-1.png\/254px-Pic4-1.png","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":1010,"bigWidth":255,"bigHeight":560,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
1-4. Cut box sides and back.
Cut box sides – 1 1/2" x 6 1/8" & 1 1/2" x 9 3/4" and box back – 1 1/2" x 2 1/2". Don't drill the hole at this level. It will be added later.
1-5. Assemble the box.
Assemble top, bottom, sides and back with glue and/or nails. If nailed, keep nails at least 1/2" from the future dowel hole. Sand assembly.
1-6. Cut main drawer parts.
Cut drawer bottom - 2 1/2" x 5 1/8" , drawer sides - 1 " x 5 1/8" and drawer back - 1 1/2" x 2 1/2". Don't drill hole at this level. It will be added later.
1-7. Assemble the main drawer.
Assemble bottom, sides, front and back with glue and/or nails. Carefully attach finger blocks as shown. Refer to the reference notes made on the blocks to assure the blocks match the top and bottom sides. Note that thin shims might be required under the blocks to assure alignment with top and bottom sides. Sand assembly.
1-8. Cut the side drawer parts.
Cut drawer bottom - 2" x 3 1/8", drawer sides 2" x 1", drawer front - 3 5/8" x 1 1/2" and drawer back - 3 1/8" x 1 1/2". Two of the eight short trim pieces (2 1/2" x 1") will be added to this assembly.
1-9. Assemble side drawer.
Don't add trim pieces at this point. Sand assembly.
1-10. Add trim.
Per the drawing, draw alignment lines around the perimeter of the box for the 4 trim rings.
Add the 8 long trim pieces to the top and bottom sides.
Next, add 5 short trim pieces to the sides.
Then, add the 2 short trim pieces to the side drawer. These should be a snug fit to provide friction so drawer doesn't slide out.
Add the last trim piece (dowel trim) - Don't glue this piece.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/9\/97\/Pic12.png\/460px-Pic12.png","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/9\/97\/Pic12.png\/630px-Pic12.png","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":408,"bigWidth":631,"bigHeight":560,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
1-11. Add pin assembly.
Place main drawer inside box. Make sure front of drawer is flush with the front of the box.
With side trim aligned, drill a very small hole through the trim, box and drawer.
Remove trim and drill a 1/4" diameter hole through box/drawer assembly.
With the small hole as a guide, drill a 1/4" diameter, 1/4" deep hole into the trim.
Glue pin into the trim.
Fill small hole with wood filler or glue/sawdust.
1-12. Sand assembly.
Clean up the edges of the trim by sanding. You can also round all the corners.
1-13. Finish.
Finish as desired. This version uses a red oak stain. See description in YouTube videos to download a free drawing file.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:56",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Gather your tools and materials.\\nYou may also need the plans that provide dimensions and layout\\n1-2. Start with the top level.\\nUse these views when referring to the parts in the steps below. \\nNote that all dimensions are for a perfect fit. Sanding will be required to prevent interference. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/cf\\\\/Puzzle-box-exploded.png\\\\/460px-Puzzle-box-exploded.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/cf\\\\/Puzzle-box-exploded.png\\\\/717px-Puzzle-box-exploded.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":359,\\\"bigWidth\\\":718,\\\"bigHeight\\\":560,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-3. Build the box top and bottom.\\nCut top and bottom - each is 3 1/2\\\" x 9 3/4\\\".\\nAdd 2 grooves to each piece 1 1/8\\\" from each side. I used a table saw which has a 1/16\\\" thick blade. The grooves should be 1/8\\\" deep.\\nCut corner block off each side. The cuts should line up with the start of the groove and run 1\\\" into the board. You can use a band saw for this cut.\\nSave blocks since they will be used later. Also, add a reference note in pencil on each block to match up to the correct side.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f7\\\\/Pic4-1.png\\\\/460px-Pic4-1.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f7\\\\/Pic4-1.png\\\\/254px-Pic4-1.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":1010,\\\"bigWidth\\\":255,\\\"bigHeight\\\":560,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-4. Cut box sides and back.\\nCut box sides – 1 1/2\\\" x 6 1/8\\\" & 1 1/2\\\" x 9 3/4\\\" and box back – 1 1/2\\\" x 2 1/2\\\". Don't drill the hole at this level. It will be added later.\\n1-5. Assemble the box.\\nAssemble top, bottom, sides and back with glue and/or nails. If nailed, keep nails at least 1/2\\\" from the future dowel hole. Sand assembly.\\n1-6. Cut main drawer parts.\\nCut drawer bottom - 2 1/2\\\" x 5 1/8\\\" , drawer sides - 1 \\\" x 5 1/8\\\" and drawer back - 1 1/2\\\" x 2 1/2\\\". Don't drill hole at this level. It will be added later.\\n1-7. Assemble the main drawer.\\nAssemble bottom, sides, front and back with glue and/or nails. Carefully attach finger blocks as shown. Refer to the reference notes made on the blocks to assure the blocks match the top and bottom sides. Note that thin shims might be required under the blocks to assure alignment with top and bottom sides. Sand assembly.\\n1-8. Cut the side drawer parts.\\nCut drawer bottom - 2\\\" x 3 1/8\\\", drawer sides 2\\\" x 1\\\", drawer front - 3 5/8\\\" x 1 1/2\\\" and drawer back - 3 1/8\\\" x 1 1/2\\\". Two of the eight short trim pieces (2 1/2\\\" x 1\\\") will be added to this assembly.\\n1-9. Assemble side drawer.\\nDon't add trim pieces at this point. Sand assembly.\\n1-10. Add trim.\\nPer the drawing, draw alignment lines around the perimeter of the box for the 4 trim rings.\\nAdd the 8 long trim pieces to the top and bottom sides.\\nNext, add 5 short trim pieces to the sides.\\nThen, add the 2 short trim pieces to the side drawer. These should be a snug fit to provide friction so drawer doesn't slide out.\\nAdd the last trim piece (dowel trim) - Don't glue this piece.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/97\\\\/Pic12.png\\\\/460px-Pic12.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/97\\\\/Pic12.png\\\\/630px-Pic12.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":408,\\\"bigWidth\\\":631,\\\"bigHeight\\\":560,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-11. Add pin assembly.\\nPlace main drawer inside box. Make sure front of drawer is flush with the front of the box.\\nWith side trim aligned, drill a very small hole through the trim, box and drawer.\\nRemove trim and drill a 1/4\\\" diameter hole through box/drawer assembly.\\nWith the small hole as a guide, drill a 1/4\\\" diameter, 1/4\\\" deep hole into the trim.\\nGlue pin into the trim.\\nFill small hole with wood filler or glue/sawdust.\\n1-12. Sand assembly.\\nClean up the edges of the trim by sanding. You can also round all the corners.\\n1-13. Finish.\\nFinish as desired. This version uses a red oak stain. See description in YouTube videos to download a free drawing file.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This is a fun little puzzle box. The complete drawing is shown below. Check out the YouTube videos for animation and actual build. Have fun!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your tools and materials.\", \"描述\": \"You may also need the plans that provide dimensions and layout\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start with the top level.\", \"描述\": \"Use these views when referring to the parts in the steps below. \\nNote that all dimensions are for a perfect fit. Sanding will be required to prevent interference. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/cf\\\\/Puzzle-box-exploded.png\\\\/460px-Puzzle-box-exploded.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/cf\\\\/Puzzle-box-exploded.png\\\\/717px-Puzzle-box-exploded.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":359,\\\"bigWidth\\\":718,\\\"bigHeight\\\":560,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the box top and bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Cut top and bottom - each is 3 1/2\\\" x 9 3/4\\\".\\nAdd 2 grooves to each piece 1 1/8\\\" from each side. I used a table saw which has a 1/16\\\" thick blade. The grooves should be 1/8\\\" deep.\\nCut corner block off each side. The cuts should line up with the start of the groove and run 1\\\" into the board. You can use a band saw for this cut.\\nSave blocks since they will be used later. Also, add a reference note in pencil on each block to match up to the correct side.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f7\\\\/Pic4-1.png\\\\/460px-Pic4-1.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f7\\\\/Pic4-1.png\\\\/254px-Pic4-1.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":1010,\\\"bigWidth\\\":255,\\\"bigHeight\\\":560,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut box sides and back.\", \"描述\": \"Cut box sides – 1 1/2\\\" x 6 1/8\\\" & 1 1/2\\\" x 9 3/4\\\" and box back – 1 1/2\\\" x 2 1/2\\\". Don't drill the hole at this level. It will be added later.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Assemble the box.\", \"描述\": \"Assemble top, bottom, sides and back with glue and/or nails. If nailed, keep nails at least 1/2\\\" from the future dowel hole. Sand assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut main drawer parts.\", \"描述\": \"Cut drawer bottom - 2 1/2\\\" x 5 1/8\\\" , drawer sides - 1 \\\" x 5 1/8\\\" and drawer back - 1 1/2\\\" x 2 1/2\\\". Don't drill hole at this level. It will be added later.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Assemble the main drawer.\", \"描述\": \"Assemble bottom, sides, front and back with glue and/or nails. Carefully attach finger blocks as shown. Refer to the reference notes made on the blocks to assure the blocks match the top and bottom sides. Note that thin shims might be required under the blocks to assure alignment with top and bottom sides. Sand assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut the side drawer parts.\", \"描述\": \"Cut drawer bottom - 2\\\" x 3 1/8\\\", drawer sides 2\\\" x 1\\\", drawer front - 3 5/8\\\" x 1 1/2\\\" and drawer back - 3 1/8\\\" x 1 1/2\\\". Two of the eight short trim pieces (2 1/2\\\" x 1\\\") will be added to this assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Assemble side drawer.\", \"描述\": \"Don't add trim pieces at this point. Sand assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add trim.\", \"描述\": \"Per the drawing, draw alignment lines around the perimeter of the box for the 4 trim rings.\\nAdd the 8 long trim pieces to the top and bottom sides.\\nNext, add 5 short trim pieces to the sides.\\nThen, add the 2 short trim pieces to the side drawer. These should be a snug fit to provide friction so drawer doesn't slide out.\\nAdd the last trim piece (dowel trim) - Don't glue this piece.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/97\\\\/Pic12.png\\\\/460px-Pic12.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/97\\\\/Pic12.png\\\\/630px-Pic12.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":408,\\\"bigWidth\\\":631,\\\"bigHeight\\\":560,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Add pin assembly.\", \"描述\": \"Place main drawer inside box. Make sure front of drawer is flush with the front of the box.\\nWith side trim aligned, drill a very small hole through the trim, box and drawer.\\nRemove trim and drill a 1/4\\\" diameter hole through box/drawer assembly.\\nWith the small hole as a guide, drill a 1/4\\\" diameter, 1/4\\\" deep hole into the trim.\\nGlue pin into the trim.\\nFill small hole with wood filler or glue/sawdust.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Sand assembly.\", \"描述\": \"Clean up the edges of the trim by sanding. You can also round all the corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Finish.\", \"描述\": \"Finish as desired. This version uses a red oak stain. See description in YouTube videos to download a free drawing file.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,487 |
How to Build a Pyramid for School
|
1. Using Cardboard
1-1. Gather your supplies.
This cardboard pyramid looks like a realistic flat-sided pyramid, but it's lightweight and doesn't take very long to put together. You probably have most of the supplies on hand already. For this project you will need:
A large flattened cardboard box or piece of cardboard
Ruler
Pencil
Scissors
Hot glue gun and sticks
Brown or black permanent marker
White school glue
Paint brush
Sand
1-2. Cut out a cardboard square.
Cut out a square of cardboard that is 14 inches (35.5 cm) by 14 inches (35.5 cm). This square will be the base of the pyramid.
You can make the base in any size you need, but keep in mind that the rest of the measurements will need to be altered if you change the size of the base.
1-3. Cut out four cardboard triangles.
Use your ruler and pencil to draw four triangles with 8-inch (20.3 cm) bases that are 12 inches (30.5 cm) tall.
Place a dot 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the center point (which is at 4 inches or 10.2 cm) of the bottom line to create a perfect triangle.
You can use a craft knife instead of scissors if the cardboard is stiff and difficult to cut.
1-4. Hot-glue the triangles together.
Lean the triangles in so that their points meet and create a pyramid shape. You can temporarily tape them together or have a friend or family member help you if it’s tricky to get all four pieces to stay together. Then, seal the edges together with a line of hot glue.
Be very careful when using hot glue, as it can burn you. Keep your hands away from the nozzle and the glue. Make sure you have a safe surface to rest your hot glue gun on when you’re not using it as well.
1-5. Hot-glue the pyramid to the square.
Center the pyramid on top of the square. Put a line of hot glue along all four bottom edges of the pyramid and press it down in the middle of the square.
1-6. Let the glue dry completely.
It’s important to allow the glue to dry completely before moving on to the next step. Wait a few hours before moving on to ensure your pyramid doesn’t fall apart.
1-7. Draw “bricks” on the pyramid.
Use a brown or black permanent marker to draw horizontal and vertical lines on the pyramid that look like bricks. This will make your pyramid look more realistic.
1-8. Paint the pyramid with white school glue.
Pour some white school glue into a dish and use a paintbrush to paint the entire cardboard pyramid with an even coating of glue. Don't forget to cover the edges, too, so you'll be able to hide the cracks with sand.
Alternatively, you could rub a glue stick over the cardboard before adding the sand.
1-9. Sprinkle on the sand.
Before the glue dries, cover the pyramid with sand. Try to sprinkle on an even amount so that the entire pyramid is evenly coated in a layer of sand.
1-10. Let the pyramid dry.
Allow the pyramid to dry overnight, rather than finishing this project the day that it’s due. This way the glue and sand will be firmly stuck on and your finished product will look great.
2. Using Clay
2-1. Collect your materials.
Making a clay pyramid allows you to get creative by making realistic indents and grooves in the walls to resemble an ancient Egyptian pyramid. You'll need the following materials for this method:
A large ball of modeling clay (the kind that air dries)
A piece of cardboard
Rolling pin
Knife
Ruler
Pencil
Scissors
Paint (sandy brown color)
Paintbrush
2-2. Cut out the cardboard base.
Use the ruler and pencil to draw a square on your piece of cardboard. An 8-inch by 8-inch (20.3 cm by 20.3 cm) base is a good size, or you could make a larger base if you have plenty of clay. Cut out the square when you're finished.
2-3. Roll out the clay.
Knead the clay into a ball, the place it on a clean, dry surface. Use the rolling pin to roll out the clay to a thickness of 1 inch (2.5 cm).
2-4. Cut a square out of the clay.
Cut a 6-inch by 6-inch (15.2 cm by 15.2 cm) square out of the clay. Center it on top of the cardboard base.
2-5. Cut additional squares out of the clay.
The next layer should be 5 inches by 5 inches (12.7 cm by 12.7 cm), followed by 4 inches by 4 inches (10.2 cm by 10.2 cm), 3 inches by 3 inches (7.6 cm by 7.6 cm), 2 inches by 2 inches (5.1 cm by 5.1 cm), and finally 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm by 2.5 cm). Stack each layer in the center of the previous layer.
2-6. Bevel the edges and create ridges.
Press your ruler against the sides of the squares to slant them slightly downward. You can also create ridges by using the knife to make markings that look like stone shapes in the sides of the pyramid.
2-7. Let the clay dry.
Leave it alone for several hours, or even overnight, to give the pyramid time to dry and harden. Refer to the instructions on the clay packaging if you’re unsure how long it takes to dry completely.
2-8. Paint the pyramid.
Pour the paint into a dish and use the paintbrush to spread an even coating on the pyramid. Alternatively, cover the pyramid in a light coating of white school glue and sprinkle it with sand before the glue dries.
2-9. Allow your project to dry.
Let your finished pyramid to dry overnight. Then, take it to school and show off your hard work.
3. Using Sugar Cubes
3-1. Assemble your supplies.
This simple pyramid looks like a step-sided pyramid, with individual "stones" visible instead of flat sides. It requires just a few household supplies, including:
A large box of sugar cubes (around 400 cubes)
A piece of cardboard
A ruler
A pencil
Scissors
White school glue
Paint (sandy brown color)
Paintbrush
3-2. Cut a cardboard square.
Use your ruler and pencil to draw a 12-inch by 12-inch (30.5 cm by 30.5 cm) square. Cut out the square and use it as the base for your pyramid.
3-3. Make a sugar cube square.
Create a 10 by 10 square base of sugar cubes in the center of the cardboard square (using 100 sugar cubes total). Glue down each sugar cube using white school glue.
3-4. Add the second layer to the pyramid.
Position a 9 by 9 square of sugar cubes in the center of the first layer (using 81 cubes). Glue down each sugar cube.
3-5. Continue adding layers.
Each layer should be 1 cube smaller than the previous layer, so the next layer is 8 by 8 (64 cubes), then 7 by 7 (49 cubes), 6 by 6 (36 cubes), 5 by 5 (25 cubes), 4 by 4 (16 cubes), 3 by 3 (9 cubes), 2 by 2 (4 cubes), and finally a single sugar cube on top.
3-6. Let the glue completely dry.
Allow the glue to dry for several hours to ensure all the sugar cubes are firmly in place.
3-7. Paint the pyramid.
Use a paintbrush to paint the entire pyramid a sandy brown color. Use only a small amount of paint, and be careful not to damage the pyramid as you go.
3-8. Let the pyramid dry.
Allow the pyramid to dry completely overnight. You can then proudly present it at school.
Tips
Working with glue is messy so lay newspapers down before you start.
Decorate the area around the base of the pyramid with sand, a faux Nile River, and other Egyptian elements.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:56",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Using Cardboard\\n1-1. Gather your supplies.\\nThis cardboard pyramid looks like a realistic flat-sided pyramid, but it's lightweight and doesn't take very long to put together. You probably have most of the supplies on hand already. For this project you will need:\\nA large flattened cardboard box or piece of cardboard\\nRuler\\nPencil\\nScissors\\nHot glue gun and sticks\\nBrown or black permanent marker\\nWhite school glue\\nPaint brush\\nSand\\n1-2. Cut out a cardboard square.\\nCut out a square of cardboard that is 14 inches (35.5 cm) by 14 inches (35.5 cm). This square will be the base of the pyramid.\\nYou can make the base in any size you need, but keep in mind that the rest of the measurements will need to be altered if you change the size of the base.\\n1-3. Cut out four cardboard triangles.\\nUse your ruler and pencil to draw four triangles with 8-inch (20.3 cm) bases that are 12 inches (30.5 cm) tall.\\nPlace a dot 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the center point (which is at 4 inches or 10.2 cm) of the bottom line to create a perfect triangle.\\nYou can use a craft knife instead of scissors if the cardboard is stiff and difficult to cut.\\n1-4. Hot-glue the triangles together.\\nLean the triangles in so that their points meet and create a pyramid shape. You can temporarily tape them together or have a friend or family member help you if it’s tricky to get all four pieces to stay together. Then, seal the edges together with a line of hot glue.\\nBe very careful when using hot glue, as it can burn you. Keep your hands away from the nozzle and the glue. Make sure you have a safe surface to rest your hot glue gun on when you’re not using it as well.\\n1-5. Hot-glue the pyramid to the square.\\nCenter the pyramid on top of the square. Put a line of hot glue along all four bottom edges of the pyramid and press it down in the middle of the square.\\n1-6. Let the glue dry completely.\\nIt’s important to allow the glue to dry completely before moving on to the next step. Wait a few hours before moving on to ensure your pyramid doesn’t fall apart.\\n1-7. Draw “bricks” on the pyramid.\\nUse a brown or black permanent marker to draw horizontal and vertical lines on the pyramid that look like bricks. This will make your pyramid look more realistic.\\n1-8. Paint the pyramid with white school glue.\\nPour some white school glue into a dish and use a paintbrush to paint the entire cardboard pyramid with an even coating of glue. Don't forget to cover the edges, too, so you'll be able to hide the cracks with sand.\\nAlternatively, you could rub a glue stick over the cardboard before adding the sand.\\n1-9. Sprinkle on the sand.\\nBefore the glue dries, cover the pyramid with sand. Try to sprinkle on an even amount so that the entire pyramid is evenly coated in a layer of sand.\\n1-10. Let the pyramid dry.\\nAllow the pyramid to dry overnight, rather than finishing this project the day that it’s due. This way the glue and sand will be firmly stuck on and your finished product will look great.\\n2. Using Clay\\n2-1. Collect your materials.\\nMaking a clay pyramid allows you to get creative by making realistic indents and grooves in the walls to resemble an ancient Egyptian pyramid. You'll need the following materials for this method:\\nA large ball of modeling clay (the kind that air dries)\\nA piece of cardboard\\nRolling pin\\nKnife\\nRuler\\nPencil\\nScissors\\nPaint (sandy brown color)\\nPaintbrush\\n2-2. Cut out the cardboard base.\\nUse the ruler and pencil to draw a square on your piece of cardboard. An 8-inch by 8-inch (20.3 cm by 20.3 cm) base is a good size, or you could make a larger base if you have plenty of clay. Cut out the square when you're finished.\\n2-3. Roll out the clay.\\nKnead the clay into a ball, the place it on a clean, dry surface. Use the rolling pin to roll out the clay to a thickness of 1 inch (2.5 cm).\\n2-4. Cut a square out of the clay.\\nCut a 6-inch by 6-inch (15.2 cm by 15.2 cm) square out of the clay. Center it on top of the cardboard base.\\n2-5. Cut additional squares out of the clay.\\nThe next layer should be 5 inches by 5 inches (12.7 cm by 12.7 cm), followed by 4 inches by 4 inches (10.2 cm by 10.2 cm), 3 inches by 3 inches (7.6 cm by 7.6 cm), 2 inches by 2 inches (5.1 cm by 5.1 cm), and finally 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm by 2.5 cm). Stack each layer in the center of the previous layer.\\n2-6. Bevel the edges and create ridges.\\nPress your ruler against the sides of the squares to slant them slightly downward. You can also create ridges by using the knife to make markings that look like stone shapes in the sides of the pyramid.\\n2-7. Let the clay dry.\\nLeave it alone for several hours, or even overnight, to give the pyramid time to dry and harden. Refer to the instructions on the clay packaging if you’re unsure how long it takes to dry completely.\\n2-8. Paint the pyramid.\\nPour the paint into a dish and use the paintbrush to spread an even coating on the pyramid. Alternatively, cover the pyramid in a light coating of white school glue and sprinkle it with sand before the glue dries.\\n2-9. Allow your project to dry.\\nLet your finished pyramid to dry overnight. Then, take it to school and show off your hard work.\\n3. Using Sugar Cubes\\n3-1. Assemble your supplies.\\nThis simple pyramid looks like a step-sided pyramid, with individual \\\"stones\\\" visible instead of flat sides. It requires just a few household supplies, including:\\nA large box of sugar cubes (around 400 cubes)\\nA piece of cardboard\\nA ruler\\nA pencil\\nScissors\\nWhite school glue\\nPaint (sandy brown color)\\nPaintbrush\\n3-2. Cut a cardboard square.\\nUse your ruler and pencil to draw a 12-inch by 12-inch (30.5 cm by 30.5 cm) square. Cut out the square and use it as the base for your pyramid.\\n3-3. Make a sugar cube square.\\nCreate a 10 by 10 square base of sugar cubes in the center of the cardboard square (using 100 sugar cubes total). Glue down each sugar cube using white school glue.\\n3-4. Add the second layer to the pyramid.\\nPosition a 9 by 9 square of sugar cubes in the center of the first layer (using 81 cubes). Glue down each sugar cube.\\n3-5. Continue adding layers.\\nEach layer should be 1 cube smaller than the previous layer, so the next layer is 8 by 8 (64 cubes), then 7 by 7 (49 cubes), 6 by 6 (36 cubes), 5 by 5 (25 cubes), 4 by 4 (16 cubes), 3 by 3 (9 cubes), 2 by 2 (4 cubes), and finally a single sugar cube on top.\\n3-6. Let the glue completely dry.\\nAllow the glue to dry for several hours to ensure all the sugar cubes are firmly in place.\\n3-7. Paint the pyramid.\\nUse a paintbrush to paint the entire pyramid a sandy brown color. Use only a small amount of paint, and be careful not to damage the pyramid as you go.\\n3-8. Let the pyramid dry.\\nAllow the pyramid to dry completely overnight. You can then proudly present it at school.\\nTips\\nWorking with glue is messy so lay newspapers down before you start.\\nDecorate the area around the base of the pyramid with sand, a faux Nile River, and other Egyptian elements.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you have an assignment to make a model of an Egyptian pyramid? It's a fun school project that can be approached in a variety of ways. Though there are lots of methods out there, you can easily make a realistic-looking pyramid out of cardboard, sugar cubes, or clay.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Using Cardboard\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"This cardboard pyramid looks like a realistic flat-sided pyramid, but it's lightweight and doesn't take very long to put together. You probably have most of the supplies on hand already. For this project you will need:\\nA large flattened cardboard box or piece of cardboard\\nRuler\\nPencil\\nScissors\\nHot glue gun and sticks\\nBrown or black permanent marker\\nWhite school glue\\nPaint brush\\nSand\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut out a cardboard square.\", \"描述\": \"Cut out a square of cardboard that is 14 inches (35.5 cm) by 14 inches (35.5 cm). This square will be the base of the pyramid.\\nYou can make the base in any size you need, but keep in mind that the rest of the measurements will need to be altered if you change the size of the base.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut out four cardboard triangles.\", \"描述\": \"Use your ruler and pencil to draw four triangles with 8-inch (20.3 cm) bases that are 12 inches (30.5 cm) tall.\\nPlace a dot 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the center point (which is at 4 inches or 10.2 cm) of the bottom line to create a perfect triangle.\\nYou can use a craft knife instead of scissors if the cardboard is stiff and difficult to cut.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Hot-glue the triangles together.\", \"描述\": \"Lean the triangles in so that their points meet and create a pyramid shape. You can temporarily tape them together or have a friend or family member help you if it’s tricky to get all four pieces to stay together. Then, seal the edges together with a line of hot glue.\\nBe very careful when using hot glue, as it can burn you. Keep your hands away from the nozzle and the glue. Make sure you have a safe surface to rest your hot glue gun on when you’re not using it as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Hot-glue the pyramid to the square.\", \"描述\": \"Center the pyramid on top of the square. Put a line of hot glue along all four bottom edges of the pyramid and press it down in the middle of the square.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Let the glue dry completely.\", \"描述\": \"It’s important to allow the glue to dry completely before moving on to the next step. Wait a few hours before moving on to ensure your pyramid doesn’t fall apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Draw “bricks” on the pyramid.\", \"描述\": \"Use a brown or black permanent marker to draw horizontal and vertical lines on the pyramid that look like bricks. This will make your pyramid look more realistic.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Paint the pyramid with white school glue.\", \"描述\": \"Pour some white school glue into a dish and use a paintbrush to paint the entire cardboard pyramid with an even coating of glue. Don't forget to cover the edges, too, so you'll be able to hide the cracks with sand.\\nAlternatively, you could rub a glue stick over the cardboard before adding the sand.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Sprinkle on the sand.\", \"描述\": \"Before the glue dries, cover the pyramid with sand. Try to sprinkle on an even amount so that the entire pyramid is evenly coated in a layer of sand.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Let the pyramid dry.\", \"描述\": \"Allow the pyramid to dry overnight, rather than finishing this project the day that it’s due. This way the glue and sand will be firmly stuck on and your finished product will look great.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using Clay\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Collect your materials.\", \"描述\": \"Making a clay pyramid allows you to get creative by making realistic indents and grooves in the walls to resemble an ancient Egyptian pyramid. You'll need the following materials for this method:\\nA large ball of modeling clay (the kind that air dries)\\nA piece of cardboard\\nRolling pin\\nKnife\\nRuler\\nPencil\\nScissors\\nPaint (sandy brown color)\\nPaintbrush\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut out the cardboard base.\", \"描述\": \"Use the ruler and pencil to draw a square on your piece of cardboard. An 8-inch by 8-inch (20.3 cm by 20.3 cm) base is a good size, or you could make a larger base if you have plenty of clay. Cut out the square when you're finished.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Roll out the clay.\", \"描述\": \"Knead the clay into a ball, the place it on a clean, dry surface. Use the rolling pin to roll out the clay to a thickness of 1 inch (2.5 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut a square out of the clay.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a 6-inch by 6-inch (15.2 cm by 15.2 cm) square out of the clay. Center it on top of the cardboard base.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut additional squares out of the clay.\", \"描述\": \"The next layer should be 5 inches by 5 inches (12.7 cm by 12.7 cm), followed by 4 inches by 4 inches (10.2 cm by 10.2 cm), 3 inches by 3 inches (7.6 cm by 7.6 cm), 2 inches by 2 inches (5.1 cm by 5.1 cm), and finally 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm by 2.5 cm). Stack each layer in the center of the previous layer.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Bevel the edges and create ridges.\", \"描述\": \"Press your ruler against the sides of the squares to slant them slightly downward. You can also create ridges by using the knife to make markings that look like stone shapes in the sides of the pyramid.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Let the clay dry.\", \"描述\": \"Leave it alone for several hours, or even overnight, to give the pyramid time to dry and harden. Refer to the instructions on the clay packaging if you’re unsure how long it takes to dry completely.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Paint the pyramid.\", \"描述\": \"Pour the paint into a dish and use the paintbrush to spread an even coating on the pyramid. Alternatively, cover the pyramid in a light coating of white school glue and sprinkle it with sand before the glue dries.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Allow your project to dry.\", \"描述\": \"Let your finished pyramid to dry overnight. Then, take it to school and show off your hard work.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using Sugar Cubes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"This simple pyramid looks like a step-sided pyramid, with individual \\\"stones\\\" visible instead of flat sides. It requires just a few household supplies, including:\\nA large box of sugar cubes (around 400 cubes)\\nA piece of cardboard\\nA ruler\\nA pencil\\nScissors\\nWhite school glue\\nPaint (sandy brown color)\\nPaintbrush\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut a cardboard square.\", \"描述\": \"Use your ruler and pencil to draw a 12-inch by 12-inch (30.5 cm by 30.5 cm) square. Cut out the square and use it as the base for your pyramid.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a sugar cube square.\", \"描述\": \"Create a 10 by 10 square base of sugar cubes in the center of the cardboard square (using 100 sugar cubes total). Glue down each sugar cube using white school glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the second layer to the pyramid.\", \"描述\": \"Position a 9 by 9 square of sugar cubes in the center of the first layer (using 81 cubes). Glue down each sugar cube.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Continue adding layers.\", \"描述\": \"Each layer should be 1 cube smaller than the previous layer, so the next layer is 8 by 8 (64 cubes), then 7 by 7 (49 cubes), 6 by 6 (36 cubes), 5 by 5 (25 cubes), 4 by 4 (16 cubes), 3 by 3 (9 cubes), 2 by 2 (4 cubes), and finally a single sugar cube on top.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Let the glue completely dry.\", \"描述\": \"Allow the glue to dry for several hours to ensure all the sugar cubes are firmly in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Paint the pyramid.\", \"描述\": \"Use a paintbrush to paint the entire pyramid a sandy brown color. Use only a small amount of paint, and be careful not to damage the pyramid as you go.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Let the pyramid dry.\", \"描述\": \"Allow the pyramid to dry completely overnight. You can then proudly present it at school.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Working with glue is messy so lay newspapers down before you start.\\n\", \"Decorate the area around the base of the pyramid with sand, a faux Nile River, and other Egyptian elements.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,488 |
How to Build a Quail Habitat
|
1. Planning Your Habitat
1-1. Determine the size of the flock you want to keep.
The type of habitat you build will depend on how many quail you plan to keep, what sex they are, and the reasons you are keeping them. You will need to factor these things in when planning the size of your habitat, how much feeding space to provide, and so on.
Quail are social birds, so your quail will be happiest and most comfortable if you keep them in groups.
To minimize fighting and aggression, plan on keeping no more than 1 male for every 4 females in the group. If you plan to keep only males, they should be housed in pairs.
If you are planning to keep quail for breeding, you may wish to keep them in relatively small groups, e.g., one male and two or three females.
Females can be kept in large groups, as long as there is sufficient space for all the birds (125 sq. cm, or about 20 sq. in, per bird).
However, even a group of females will quickly establish a hierarchy or pecking order, so you will need to use caution when introducing new birds to the group once your flock is established.
1-2. Provide adequate space.
Quail need plenty of space to exercise, hide, and eat. Since they can fly, your habitat will also need enough vertical space to accommodate the birds’ vertical flight instinct that can kick in if they are scared or startled.
As a general rule of thumb, your enclosure should offer 125 sq. cm (about 20 sq. in) per bird.
Your quail habitat needs to be at least 30 cm (about 1 foot) high in order to accommodate vertical flight without causing injury to the quail.
If you are keeping quail in order to produce eggs, you may need to keep your birds in a relatively small habitat (like a hutch or pen, rather than a shed or aviary).
Quail may hide their eggs in the litter on the bottoms of their habitats, so eggs can be difficult to find in a larger enclosure or pen. However, you should still provide at least 125 sq. cm (about 20 sq. in) per bird.
1-3. Provide sufficient light.
Quail need plenty of light in order to produce eggs and to reach sexual maturity. Plenty of sunlight can also promote the growth of any plants you wish to add to your quail habitat. During the fall and winter months, you may need to introduce supplemental lighting in order to maintain egg production and fertility.
Japanese quail, one of the most popular types of domestic quail, must have 14-18 hours of light per day to maintain optimum fertility and egg production.
If you are keeping your quail for meat production only, less light (e.g., about 8 hours per day) is needed.
1-4. Gather the supplies you will need.
The necessary supplies for building a quail habitat will vary depending on the type of enclosure you plan to build, but at minimum you will need:
7 mm (approximately .25 in) wire mesh to secure the sides of your habitat.
Appropriate floor cover. Quails do best in enclosures with solid floors covered in litter made of sand, soft wood shavings, or straw.
Potted plants, artificial plants, shrubs, cut conifer branches, or small hay bales to provide cover and hiding places.
Simple nest boxes.
Sand for dustbathing.
Flexible roof material to prevent head injuries during vertical flight. A soft net can be stretched just below the roof of the quail hutch or run in order to minimize the risk of injury.
2. Constructing Your Habitat
2-1. Construct a pen or shelter.
This can be as simple as converting a rabbit hutch, which should be well ventilated and big enough to house about 6 quail (750 sq. cm, or about 300 sq. in). If you are planning to keep a larger number of quail, you will need a bigger pen or aviary.
Do not use a chicken coop for housing quail as they do not perch like chickens.
The housing area for the quail should be on or near the ground. Quail like to nest and forage or sleep on the ground.
Unless you are able to install wire mesh under the house or provide a solid floor under the house (like concrete), you may need to raise the house off the ground slightly in order to keep rats and other pests from burrowing in.
If you must raise the house off the ground, try to raise it no more than 10 cm (about 4 inches), and provide a shallow ramp that the quail can use to enter and exit.
Make sure the shelter is roofed so that the quail will have shelter from the sun and the elements.
2-2. Construct a run or flight pen.
Your quail will be happiest if they are able to spend time roaming and foraging. If you house your quail in cages or a small hutch, consider attaching a flight pen or run to their shelter. A run is an enclosed outdoor area where your birds can walk around or (with a tall enough roof) fly.
There are no particular size restrictions on the run or flight pen, although it should be larger than their shelter or hutch. It should be tall enough to allow the birds to fly, and preferably tall enough for you to enter in order to maintain the habitat and the birds. There should also be sufficient space for the quail to run around, and areas for hiding.
Create a frame for your run or flight pen out of lumber or PVC piping. Try one of the construction methods described here: http://www.poultry.msstate.edu/pdf/extension/birg_flight_pen.pdf
Consider running mesh under the run or installing a concrete floor to prevent predators from digging under.
Cover the sides of the run with fine (7 mm or .25 in) wire mesh.
Roof the run with soft bird netting, and make sure the top of the pen is secure from outside predators.
Make sure there is cover in the run. Cover could include elevated logs, cut conifer branches, potted plants, or shrubs.
2-3. Provide a sand tray or pit for dustbathing.
Quail need to dust bathe regularly. They prefer fine particles, like sand (as opposed to sawdust). Set aside an area of your quail hutch or run for sand bathing.
2-4. Provide feeding and watering stations.
Food and water may be provided in troughs or in individual stations. Be sure to provide plenty of eating and drinking space for each bird, so that they do not have to compete for food and water.
Quail should have at least 1.25-2.5 cm (about 0.5-1 in) of feeding space per bird, in order to reduce aggression and stress during feeding.
Quail need plenty of fresh water. Your habitat should provide .6 cm (about .25 in) of water trough space per bird. If you plan to offer water via cups or water nipples, your habitat should have 1 watering cup or nipple drinker available for every 5 birds.
Make sure food and water stations are easy for you to access so that you can change, refill, and clean them easily.
Give your quail foraging opportunities by scattering grain in their floor litter, hiding it in cored fruits or vegetables, or mixing it in with scraps of paper in their feed troughs.
2-5. Provide appropriate floor cover.
Quail like to have plenty of litter to poke around in. Cover the floor with sand, softwood, or straw, because spending too much time on wire can hurt their feet. Straw can also double as nesting material.
If your main quail home has a wire floor, make sure the quail have access to a solid floor with a soft litter cover, either in their run or as part of their pen/hutch. One possible solution is to install a solid floor in a corner of their hutch and cover it with soft litter.
Twigs, straw, feathers, and leaf litter can add extra interest to their floor litter and provide nesting material.
Adding interesting features to your enclosure, such as logs for them to climb on or wood on bricks for them to climb under, will keep your quail from getting bored and unhappy.
2-6. Install simple nest boxes.
Keep in mind that your quail may prefer to simply nest on the ground under a sheltering shrub or branch. However, the option of nest boxes should be available.
A nest box is typically a simple, open-fronted wooden box or cubby-hole.
Quail feel safest in covered nest boxes, although they show a preference for nest box covers with slits rather than solid covers.
Place nest boxes in the corners of your quail hutch or pen, and line them with hay, chaff, or corn husks.
3. Maintaining the Habitat
3-1. Change the floor litter regularly.
Quail droppings will build up quickly and contain high levels of ammonia. It’s important that you clean out their habitat on a regular basis.
If your quail live in a hutch with a wire floor, you can easily collect and clean up the droppings by placing newspapers or shallow containers (like litter trays) underneath the hutch.
If you wish, you can use the collected droppings for fertilizer.
If you keep your quail in a deep litter habitat, you may only need to clean the litter once every couple of weeks.
3-2. Provide food for the quail.
How much your quail will need depends on how many quail you have, how mature they are, and what breed they are. Adult Japanese quail, for example, eat approximately 14-18 g (.5-.63 oz) of feed per day.
Buy food designed specially for the age and life stage of your quail. Their nutritional needs change as they grow and mature.
If you are unable to get feed specifically formulated for quail, you can give your quail turkey or game bird feed supplemented with calcium. Add a little shell grit or ground limestone to their feed to provide a calcium boost.
Store the food you plan to feed the quail in a dry, cool, well-sealed container. Do not give your quail food that is more than 8 weeks old.
3-3. Make sure your quail always have access to clean water.
Clean water troughs and containers daily to prevent illness. Wash water containers with hot water and a mild detergent, and rinse thoroughly before refilling with fresh water. If you have chicks, fill the water troughs with clean pebbles or marbles to prevent drowning.
3-4. Perform weekly security checks.
Regularly examine the quail habitat for damage. Look for rotting wood or holes in the wire or net that could allow predators in (or quail out). Rats often try to get into quail enclosures, so be sure to maintain a secure pen.
3-5. Keep count of your quail.
You may want to do an overall count of your quail daily, weekly or monthly. This is so you know that they’re all there and that the quail are living healthy lives in the habitat.
3-6. Do not disturb your quail.
Quail are easily startled, and excessive stress or handling can kill them. Don’t pick up or handle your quail any more than necessary, and enter their habitat only as much as you need to. Keep their enclosure as quiet and natural as possible.
Monitor how other pets or wildlife affect your quail, as too much interest from these animals can stress out your quail.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:57",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Habitat\\n1-1. Determine the size of the flock you want to keep.\\nThe type of habitat you build will depend on how many quail you plan to keep, what sex they are, and the reasons you are keeping them. You will need to factor these things in when planning the size of your habitat, how much feeding space to provide, and so on.\\nQuail are social birds, so your quail will be happiest and most comfortable if you keep them in groups.\\nTo minimize fighting and aggression, plan on keeping no more than 1 male for every 4 females in the group. If you plan to keep only males, they should be housed in pairs.\\nIf you are planning to keep quail for breeding, you may wish to keep them in relatively small groups, e.g., one male and two or three females. \\nFemales can be kept in large groups, as long as there is sufficient space for all the birds (125 sq. cm, or about 20 sq. in, per bird).\\nHowever, even a group of females will quickly establish a hierarchy or pecking order, so you will need to use caution when introducing new birds to the group once your flock is established.\\n1-2. Provide adequate space.\\nQuail need plenty of space to exercise, hide, and eat. Since they can fly, your habitat will also need enough vertical space to accommodate the birds’ vertical flight instinct that can kick in if they are scared or startled.\\nAs a general rule of thumb, your enclosure should offer 125 sq. cm (about 20 sq. in) per bird.\\nYour quail habitat needs to be at least 30 cm (about 1 foot) high in order to accommodate vertical flight without causing injury to the quail.\\nIf you are keeping quail in order to produce eggs, you may need to keep your birds in a relatively small habitat (like a hutch or pen, rather than a shed or aviary).\\nQuail may hide their eggs in the litter on the bottoms of their habitats, so eggs can be difficult to find in a larger enclosure or pen. However, you should still provide at least 125 sq. cm (about 20 sq. in) per bird.\\n1-3. Provide sufficient light.\\nQuail need plenty of light in order to produce eggs and to reach sexual maturity. Plenty of sunlight can also promote the growth of any plants you wish to add to your quail habitat. During the fall and winter months, you may need to introduce supplemental lighting in order to maintain egg production and fertility.\\nJapanese quail, one of the most popular types of domestic quail, must have 14-18 hours of light per day to maintain optimum fertility and egg production.\\nIf you are keeping your quail for meat production only, less light (e.g., about 8 hours per day) is needed.\\n1-4. Gather the supplies you will need.\\nThe necessary supplies for building a quail habitat will vary depending on the type of enclosure you plan to build, but at minimum you will need:\\n7 mm (approximately .25 in) wire mesh to secure the sides of your habitat.\\nAppropriate floor cover. Quails do best in enclosures with solid floors covered in litter made of sand, soft wood shavings, or straw.\\nPotted plants, artificial plants, shrubs, cut conifer branches, or small hay bales to provide cover and hiding places.\\nSimple nest boxes.\\nSand for dustbathing.\\nFlexible roof material to prevent head injuries during vertical flight. A soft net can be stretched just below the roof of the quail hutch or run in order to minimize the risk of injury.\\n2. Constructing Your Habitat\\n2-1. Construct a pen or shelter.\\nThis can be as simple as converting a rabbit hutch, which should be well ventilated and big enough to house about 6 quail (750 sq. cm, or about 300 sq. in). If you are planning to keep a larger number of quail, you will need a bigger pen or aviary.\\nDo not use a chicken coop for housing quail as they do not perch like chickens.\\nThe housing area for the quail should be on or near the ground. Quail like to nest and forage or sleep on the ground.\\nUnless you are able to install wire mesh under the house or provide a solid floor under the house (like concrete), you may need to raise the house off the ground slightly in order to keep rats and other pests from burrowing in.\\nIf you must raise the house off the ground, try to raise it no more than 10 cm (about 4 inches), and provide a shallow ramp that the quail can use to enter and exit.\\nMake sure the shelter is roofed so that the quail will have shelter from the sun and the elements.\\n2-2. Construct a run or flight pen.\\nYour quail will be happiest if they are able to spend time roaming and foraging. If you house your quail in cages or a small hutch, consider attaching a flight pen or run to their shelter. A run is an enclosed outdoor area where your birds can walk around or (with a tall enough roof) fly.\\nThere are no particular size restrictions on the run or flight pen, although it should be larger than their shelter or hutch. It should be tall enough to allow the birds to fly, and preferably tall enough for you to enter in order to maintain the habitat and the birds. There should also be sufficient space for the quail to run around, and areas for hiding.\\nCreate a frame for your run or flight pen out of lumber or PVC piping. Try one of the construction methods described here: http://www.poultry.msstate.edu/pdf/extension/birg_flight_pen.pdf\\nConsider running mesh under the run or installing a concrete floor to prevent predators from digging under.\\nCover the sides of the run with fine (7 mm or .25 in) wire mesh.\\nRoof the run with soft bird netting, and make sure the top of the pen is secure from outside predators.\\nMake sure there is cover in the run. Cover could include elevated logs, cut conifer branches, potted plants, or shrubs.\\n2-3. Provide a sand tray or pit for dustbathing.\\nQuail need to dust bathe regularly. They prefer fine particles, like sand (as opposed to sawdust). Set aside an area of your quail hutch or run for sand bathing.\\n2-4. Provide feeding and watering stations.\\nFood and water may be provided in troughs or in individual stations. Be sure to provide plenty of eating and drinking space for each bird, so that they do not have to compete for food and water.\\nQuail should have at least 1.25-2.5 cm (about 0.5-1 in) of feeding space per bird, in order to reduce aggression and stress during feeding.\\nQuail need plenty of fresh water. Your habitat should provide .6 cm (about .25 in) of water trough space per bird. If you plan to offer water via cups or water nipples, your habitat should have 1 watering cup or nipple drinker available for every 5 birds.\\nMake sure food and water stations are easy for you to access so that you can change, refill, and clean them easily.\\nGive your quail foraging opportunities by scattering grain in their floor litter, hiding it in cored fruits or vegetables, or mixing it in with scraps of paper in their feed troughs.\\n2-5. Provide appropriate floor cover.\\nQuail like to have plenty of litter to poke around in. Cover the floor with sand, softwood, or straw, because spending too much time on wire can hurt their feet. Straw can also double as nesting material.\\nIf your main quail home has a wire floor, make sure the quail have access to a solid floor with a soft litter cover, either in their run or as part of their pen/hutch. One possible solution is to install a solid floor in a corner of their hutch and cover it with soft litter.\\nTwigs, straw, feathers, and leaf litter can add extra interest to their floor litter and provide nesting material.\\nAdding interesting features to your enclosure, such as logs for them to climb on or wood on bricks for them to climb under, will keep your quail from getting bored and unhappy.\\n2-6. Install simple nest boxes.\\nKeep in mind that your quail may prefer to simply nest on the ground under a sheltering shrub or branch. However, the option of nest boxes should be available.\\nA nest box is typically a simple, open-fronted wooden box or cubby-hole.\\nQuail feel safest in covered nest boxes, although they show a preference for nest box covers with slits rather than solid covers.\\nPlace nest boxes in the corners of your quail hutch or pen, and line them with hay, chaff, or corn husks.\\n3. Maintaining the Habitat\\n3-1. Change the floor litter regularly.\\nQuail droppings will build up quickly and contain high levels of ammonia. It’s important that you clean out their habitat on a regular basis.\\nIf your quail live in a hutch with a wire floor, you can easily collect and clean up the droppings by placing newspapers or shallow containers (like litter trays) underneath the hutch.\\nIf you wish, you can use the collected droppings for fertilizer.\\nIf you keep your quail in a deep litter habitat, you may only need to clean the litter once every couple of weeks.\\n3-2. Provide food for the quail.\\nHow much your quail will need depends on how many quail you have, how mature they are, and what breed they are. Adult Japanese quail, for example, eat approximately 14-18 g (.5-.63 oz) of feed per day.\\nBuy food designed specially for the age and life stage of your quail. Their nutritional needs change as they grow and mature.\\nIf you are unable to get feed specifically formulated for quail, you can give your quail turkey or game bird feed supplemented with calcium. Add a little shell grit or ground limestone to their feed to provide a calcium boost.\\nStore the food you plan to feed the quail in a dry, cool, well-sealed container. Do not give your quail food that is more than 8 weeks old.\\n3-3. Make sure your quail always have access to clean water.\\nClean water troughs and containers daily to prevent illness. Wash water containers with hot water and a mild detergent, and rinse thoroughly before refilling with fresh water. If you have chicks, fill the water troughs with clean pebbles or marbles to prevent drowning.\\n3-4. Perform weekly security checks.\\nRegularly examine the quail habitat for damage. Look for rotting wood or holes in the wire or net that could allow predators in (or quail out). Rats often try to get into quail enclosures, so be sure to maintain a secure pen.\\n3-5. Keep count of your quail.\\nYou may want to do an overall count of your quail daily, weekly or monthly. This is so you know that they’re all there and that the quail are living healthy lives in the habitat.\\n3-6. Do not disturb your quail.\\nQuail are easily startled, and excessive stress or handling can kill them. Don’t pick up or handle your quail any more than necessary, and enter their habitat only as much as you need to. Keep their enclosure as quiet and natural as possible.\\nMonitor how other pets or wildlife affect your quail, as too much interest from these animals can stress out your quail.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you are interested in keeping quail, you will need to provide a good environment for your birds. Quail will thrive better and be healthier in a habitat in which they feel safe, secure, and at home. Since quail are social birds, they will need a habitat that is big enough to house multiple quail and offers not only shelter, but also space to forage and cover for hiding and nesting. Plan an appropriate type of enclosure and run for your flock, gather the materials you will need, and keep your quail healthy and happy by properly maintaining their habitat.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Habitat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the size of the flock you want to keep.\", \"描述\": \"The type of habitat you build will depend on how many quail you plan to keep, what sex they are, and the reasons you are keeping them. You will need to factor these things in when planning the size of your habitat, how much feeding space to provide, and so on.\\nQuail are social birds, so your quail will be happiest and most comfortable if you keep them in groups.\\nTo minimize fighting and aggression, plan on keeping no more than 1 male for every 4 females in the group. If you plan to keep only males, they should be housed in pairs.\\nIf you are planning to keep quail for breeding, you may wish to keep them in relatively small groups, e.g., one male and two or three females. \\nFemales can be kept in large groups, as long as there is sufficient space for all the birds (125 sq. cm, or about 20 sq. in, per bird).\\nHowever, even a group of females will quickly establish a hierarchy or pecking order, so you will need to use caution when introducing new birds to the group once your flock is established.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Provide adequate space.\", \"描述\": \"Quail need plenty of space to exercise, hide, and eat. Since they can fly, your habitat will also need enough vertical space to accommodate the birds’ vertical flight instinct that can kick in if they are scared or startled.\\nAs a general rule of thumb, your enclosure should offer 125 sq. cm (about 20 sq. in) per bird.\\nYour quail habitat needs to be at least 30 cm (about 1 foot) high in order to accommodate vertical flight without causing injury to the quail.\\nIf you are keeping quail in order to produce eggs, you may need to keep your birds in a relatively small habitat (like a hutch or pen, rather than a shed or aviary).\\nQuail may hide their eggs in the litter on the bottoms of their habitats, so eggs can be difficult to find in a larger enclosure or pen. However, you should still provide at least 125 sq. cm (about 20 sq. in) per bird.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Provide sufficient light.\", \"描述\": \"Quail need plenty of light in order to produce eggs and to reach sexual maturity. Plenty of sunlight can also promote the growth of any plants you wish to add to your quail habitat. During the fall and winter months, you may need to introduce supplemental lighting in order to maintain egg production and fertility.\\nJapanese quail, one of the most popular types of domestic quail, must have 14-18 hours of light per day to maintain optimum fertility and egg production.\\nIf you are keeping your quail for meat production only, less light (e.g., about 8 hours per day) is needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Gather the supplies you will need.\", \"描述\": \"The necessary supplies for building a quail habitat will vary depending on the type of enclosure you plan to build, but at minimum you will need:\\n7 mm (approximately .25 in) wire mesh to secure the sides of your habitat.\\nAppropriate floor cover. Quails do best in enclosures with solid floors covered in litter made of sand, soft wood shavings, or straw.\\nPotted plants, artificial plants, shrubs, cut conifer branches, or small hay bales to provide cover and hiding places.\\nSimple nest boxes.\\nSand for dustbathing.\\nFlexible roof material to prevent head injuries during vertical flight. A soft net can be stretched just below the roof of the quail hutch or run in order to minimize the risk of injury.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing Your Habitat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Construct a pen or shelter.\", \"描述\": \"This can be as simple as converting a rabbit hutch, which should be well ventilated and big enough to house about 6 quail (750 sq. cm, or about 300 sq. in). If you are planning to keep a larger number of quail, you will need a bigger pen or aviary.\\nDo not use a chicken coop for housing quail as they do not perch like chickens.\\nThe housing area for the quail should be on or near the ground. Quail like to nest and forage or sleep on the ground.\\nUnless you are able to install wire mesh under the house or provide a solid floor under the house (like concrete), you may need to raise the house off the ground slightly in order to keep rats and other pests from burrowing in.\\nIf you must raise the house off the ground, try to raise it no more than 10 cm (about 4 inches), and provide a shallow ramp that the quail can use to enter and exit.\\nMake sure the shelter is roofed so that the quail will have shelter from the sun and the elements.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Construct a run or flight pen.\", \"描述\": \"Your quail will be happiest if they are able to spend time roaming and foraging. If you house your quail in cages or a small hutch, consider attaching a flight pen or run to their shelter. A run is an enclosed outdoor area where your birds can walk around or (with a tall enough roof) fly.\\nThere are no particular size restrictions on the run or flight pen, although it should be larger than their shelter or hutch. It should be tall enough to allow the birds to fly, and preferably tall enough for you to enter in order to maintain the habitat and the birds. There should also be sufficient space for the quail to run around, and areas for hiding.\\nCreate a frame for your run or flight pen out of lumber or PVC piping. Try one of the construction methods described here: http://www.poultry.msstate.edu/pdf/extension/birg_flight_pen.pdf\\nConsider running mesh under the run or installing a concrete floor to prevent predators from digging under.\\nCover the sides of the run with fine (7 mm or .25 in) wire mesh.\\nRoof the run with soft bird netting, and make sure the top of the pen is secure from outside predators.\\nMake sure there is cover in the run. Cover could include elevated logs, cut conifer branches, potted plants, or shrubs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Provide a sand tray or pit for dustbathing.\", \"描述\": \"Quail need to dust bathe regularly. They prefer fine particles, like sand (as opposed to sawdust). Set aside an area of your quail hutch or run for sand bathing.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Provide feeding and watering stations.\", \"描述\": \"Food and water may be provided in troughs or in individual stations. Be sure to provide plenty of eating and drinking space for each bird, so that they do not have to compete for food and water.\\nQuail should have at least 1.25-2.5 cm (about 0.5-1 in) of feeding space per bird, in order to reduce aggression and stress during feeding.\\nQuail need plenty of fresh water. Your habitat should provide .6 cm (about .25 in) of water trough space per bird. If you plan to offer water via cups or water nipples, your habitat should have 1 watering cup or nipple drinker available for every 5 birds.\\nMake sure food and water stations are easy for you to access so that you can change, refill, and clean them easily.\\nGive your quail foraging opportunities by scattering grain in their floor litter, hiding it in cored fruits or vegetables, or mixing it in with scraps of paper in their feed troughs.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Provide appropriate floor cover.\", \"描述\": \"Quail like to have plenty of litter to poke around in. Cover the floor with sand, softwood, or straw, because spending too much time on wire can hurt their feet. Straw can also double as nesting material.\\nIf your main quail home has a wire floor, make sure the quail have access to a solid floor with a soft litter cover, either in their run or as part of their pen/hutch. One possible solution is to install a solid floor in a corner of their hutch and cover it with soft litter.\\nTwigs, straw, feathers, and leaf litter can add extra interest to their floor litter and provide nesting material.\\nAdding interesting features to your enclosure, such as logs for them to climb on or wood on bricks for them to climb under, will keep your quail from getting bored and unhappy.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install simple nest boxes.\", \"描述\": \"Keep in mind that your quail may prefer to simply nest on the ground under a sheltering shrub or branch. However, the option of nest boxes should be available.\\nA nest box is typically a simple, open-fronted wooden box or cubby-hole.\\nQuail feel safest in covered nest boxes, although they show a preference for nest box covers with slits rather than solid covers.\\nPlace nest boxes in the corners of your quail hutch or pen, and line them with hay, chaff, or corn husks.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Maintaining the Habitat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Change the floor litter regularly.\", \"描述\": \"Quail droppings will build up quickly and contain high levels of ammonia. It’s important that you clean out their habitat on a regular basis.\\nIf your quail live in a hutch with a wire floor, you can easily collect and clean up the droppings by placing newspapers or shallow containers (like litter trays) underneath the hutch.\\nIf you wish, you can use the collected droppings for fertilizer.\\nIf you keep your quail in a deep litter habitat, you may only need to clean the litter once every couple of weeks.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Provide food for the quail.\", \"描述\": \"How much your quail will need depends on how many quail you have, how mature they are, and what breed they are. Adult Japanese quail, for example, eat approximately 14-18 g (.5-.63 oz) of feed per day.\\nBuy food designed specially for the age and life stage of your quail. Their nutritional needs change as they grow and mature.\\nIf you are unable to get feed specifically formulated for quail, you can give your quail turkey or game bird feed supplemented with calcium. Add a little shell grit or ground limestone to their feed to provide a calcium boost.\\nStore the food you plan to feed the quail in a dry, cool, well-sealed container. Do not give your quail food that is more than 8 weeks old.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make sure your quail always have access to clean water.\", \"描述\": \"Clean water troughs and containers daily to prevent illness. Wash water containers with hot water and a mild detergent, and rinse thoroughly before refilling with fresh water. If you have chicks, fill the water troughs with clean pebbles or marbles to prevent drowning.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Perform weekly security checks.\", \"描述\": \"Regularly examine the quail habitat for damage. Look for rotting wood or holes in the wire or net that could allow predators in (or quail out). Rats often try to get into quail enclosures, so be sure to maintain a secure pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Keep count of your quail.\", \"描述\": \"You may want to do an overall count of your quail daily, weekly or monthly. This is so you know that they’re all there and that the quail are living healthy lives in the habitat.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Do not disturb your quail.\", \"描述\": \"Quail are easily startled, and excessive stress or handling can kill them. Don’t pick up or handle your quail any more than necessary, and enter their habitat only as much as you need to. Keep their enclosure as quiet and natural as possible.\\nMonitor how other pets or wildlife affect your quail, as too much interest from these animals can stress out your quail.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,489 |
How to Build a Rabbit Condo
|
1. Building the Walls of the Condo
1-1. Plan a design.
Purchase two boxes of wire storage cubes. Once you remove all of the wire mesh grids from the boxes of storage cubes, you'll know how many you have to use. Each grid square will likely be 13”x13” or 14”x14” depending on the brand you buy.
A common design may consist of front and back walls that are both three grids high and three grids long with side walls three grids high and two grids deep.
This design gives you space to build two or three levels up for your rabbit without commandeering a large portion of any room.
1-2. Zip tie the individual walls together.
This is the most time consuming portion of the whole project. Build one wall at a time by setting the grids together in your decided formation and zip tie the ends tightly together.
Place a zip tie at each end where the two grids come together.
This means that a 2x2 set of grids will have four zip ties in the middle where all four squares come together.
Don't forget to build one for the roof of the condo as well.
Make sure each zip tie is tight. Use a pair of pliers for more leverage if you need to.
1-3. Trim the excess length off each zip tie.
You don't want to leave your rabbit anything hazardous to chew, so you should cut the excess length off each zip tie as closely as possible without breaking the tie.
1-4. Zip tie the constructed walls together.
Once you have each individual wall built, use the same process with the zip ties but at 90-degree angles to connect the walls and form the entire structure.
You may find it easier to start with the roof on the floor and turn the structure over once all the walls and roof are attached.
1-5. Make a door.
Once you have all of the walls connected, you will need to snip a few ties to make a door for getting your rabbit in and out of the condo. If you clip the ties in an upside-down L going up two grids and across one from the bottom center of the condo, then you'll easily be able to swing this section open for letting your rabbit out and also getting in to clean the condo.
To prevent your rabbit from pushing the door open once you've completed the project, use three small spring clamps to hold the door shut.
For an even more cost effective option, you can even use something as simple as 1 1/4” binder clips to hold the door shut.
2. Making Levels for the Condo
2-1. Make a floor for the condo.
You most likely do not want to set the condo on top of your carpet in a room since rabbits tend to be messy. Instead, take the floor measurement of your completed design and purchase a piece of plywood that you can set the condo perfectly on top of.
If you tack short pieces of plywood around 6” high to the outside of the flooring base, the condo will fit inside this lip.
Creating a lip gives the structure more stability and keeps hay (and anything else inside the condo) off the surrounding flooring.
If you don't have tools for cutting the plywood, take the measurements to the home improvement store where you purchase the material. They'll cut it for you.
2-2. Add a floor covering.
Since rabbits may try to gnaw at the wood or, at the very least, soil it, you want to cover the plywood with something a bit more rabbit friendly. A cheap and simple solution is a roll of vinyl shelf liner that will be both easy to install and clean.
2-3. Insert the wooden dowel rods.
The 1” wooden dowel rods will make a foundation for the upper levels of the condo. You can easily slide the rods in the spaces between the mesh before cutting them to size.
If you plan to make a level that is only one or two grids wide, use two rods (one in front and one in back).
If you plan on making a larger level, insert additional support rods.
Use 1” rods or supports because they're sturdy enough and anything larger might not fit through the mesh in the grids.
2-4. Place a piece of plywood on top of the dowels to make the level.
You'll probably want to cover this piece of plywood with something easily cleaned such as the vinyl shelf liner as well. However, you can always put a towel or something more comfortable for your rabbit on top of the liner.
If you build the second level higher up, use another board as a ramp for your rabbit, though your rabbit can usually just hop up.
3. Finishing the Condo
3-1. Place in a rabbit-proofed spot.
Never place your new rabbit condo in a spot that isn't rabbit proofed. A corner close to electrical cords, for instance, can still lead to your rabbit chewing on something it shouldn't.
3-2. Place small pieces of plywood around the base of the flooring either inside or outside.
If you didn't add pieces of wood to the flooring base, you can simply place short (maybe 6”) pieces of plywood around the base of the condo at this point to keep hay and other objects inside.
3-3. Screw casters to the bottom of the flooring.
If you want your new rabbit condo to be mobile so you can move it between rooms (or even just move it to clean behind it), then you can easily screw castors to the bottom of the piece of flooring plywood. This will make it very easy to roll the condo around.
Make sure there's a lip around the base to hold the condo in place as you push. Otherwise, you'll just push the structure off the base.
Ensure that none of the screws penetrate all the way through the floor of the condo since the sharp edges can hurt your rabbit.
3-4. Furnish your rabbit's new condo with rabbit-friendly accessories.
Remember that rabbits will chew just about anything they can reach, so keep the condo free of anything that could be potentially hazardous.
Tips
If you have any extra grids left over, you can tie them together to form makeshift baby gates to help rabbit-proof other areas when you let your rabbit out.
Never use a rabbit condo design the calls for chicken-wire. Rabbits can chew through chicken wire and hurt themselves by sticking their heads through the sharp ends of the chewed mesh.
You could also use grids for the floor of the upper levels, provided you put plywood over it, as the mesh will hurt the rabbit's feet, and cardboard is too flimsy.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:57",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Walls of the Condo\\n1-1. Plan a design.\\nPurchase two boxes of wire storage cubes. Once you remove all of the wire mesh grids from the boxes of storage cubes, you'll know how many you have to use. Each grid square will likely be 13”x13” or 14”x14” depending on the brand you buy.\\nA common design may consist of front and back walls that are both three grids high and three grids long with side walls three grids high and two grids deep.\\nThis design gives you space to build two or three levels up for your rabbit without commandeering a large portion of any room.\\n1-2. Zip tie the individual walls together.\\nThis is the most time consuming portion of the whole project. Build one wall at a time by setting the grids together in your decided formation and zip tie the ends tightly together.\\nPlace a zip tie at each end where the two grids come together.\\nThis means that a 2x2 set of grids will have four zip ties in the middle where all four squares come together.\\nDon't forget to build one for the roof of the condo as well.\\nMake sure each zip tie is tight. Use a pair of pliers for more leverage if you need to.\\n1-3. Trim the excess length off each zip tie.\\nYou don't want to leave your rabbit anything hazardous to chew, so you should cut the excess length off each zip tie as closely as possible without breaking the tie.\\n1-4. Zip tie the constructed walls together.\\nOnce you have each individual wall built, use the same process with the zip ties but at 90-degree angles to connect the walls and form the entire structure.\\nYou may find it easier to start with the roof on the floor and turn the structure over once all the walls and roof are attached.\\n1-5. Make a door.\\nOnce you have all of the walls connected, you will need to snip a few ties to make a door for getting your rabbit in and out of the condo. If you clip the ties in an upside-down L going up two grids and across one from the bottom center of the condo, then you'll easily be able to swing this section open for letting your rabbit out and also getting in to clean the condo.\\nTo prevent your rabbit from pushing the door open once you've completed the project, use three small spring clamps to hold the door shut.\\nFor an even more cost effective option, you can even use something as simple as 1 1/4” binder clips to hold the door shut.\\n2. Making Levels for the Condo\\n2-1. Make a floor for the condo.\\nYou most likely do not want to set the condo on top of your carpet in a room since rabbits tend to be messy. Instead, take the floor measurement of your completed design and purchase a piece of plywood that you can set the condo perfectly on top of.\\nIf you tack short pieces of plywood around 6” high to the outside of the flooring base, the condo will fit inside this lip.\\nCreating a lip gives the structure more stability and keeps hay (and anything else inside the condo) off the surrounding flooring.\\nIf you don't have tools for cutting the plywood, take the measurements to the home improvement store where you purchase the material. They'll cut it for you.\\n2-2. Add a floor covering.\\nSince rabbits may try to gnaw at the wood or, at the very least, soil it, you want to cover the plywood with something a bit more rabbit friendly. A cheap and simple solution is a roll of vinyl shelf liner that will be both easy to install and clean.\\n2-3. Insert the wooden dowel rods.\\nThe 1” wooden dowel rods will make a foundation for the upper levels of the condo. You can easily slide the rods in the spaces between the mesh before cutting them to size.\\nIf you plan to make a level that is only one or two grids wide, use two rods (one in front and one in back).\\nIf you plan on making a larger level, insert additional support rods.\\nUse 1” rods or supports because they're sturdy enough and anything larger might not fit through the mesh in the grids.\\n2-4. Place a piece of plywood on top of the dowels to make the level.\\nYou'll probably want to cover this piece of plywood with something easily cleaned such as the vinyl shelf liner as well. However, you can always put a towel or something more comfortable for your rabbit on top of the liner.\\nIf you build the second level higher up, use another board as a ramp for your rabbit, though your rabbit can usually just hop up.\\n3. Finishing the Condo\\n3-1. Place in a rabbit-proofed spot.\\nNever place your new rabbit condo in a spot that isn't rabbit proofed. A corner close to electrical cords, for instance, can still lead to your rabbit chewing on something it shouldn't.\\n3-2. Place small pieces of plywood around the base of the flooring either inside or outside.\\nIf you didn't add pieces of wood to the flooring base, you can simply place short (maybe 6”) pieces of plywood around the base of the condo at this point to keep hay and other objects inside.\\n3-3. Screw casters to the bottom of the flooring.\\nIf you want your new rabbit condo to be mobile so you can move it between rooms (or even just move it to clean behind it), then you can easily screw castors to the bottom of the piece of flooring plywood. This will make it very easy to roll the condo around.\\nMake sure there's a lip around the base to hold the condo in place as you push. Otherwise, you'll just push the structure off the base.\\nEnsure that none of the screws penetrate all the way through the floor of the condo since the sharp edges can hurt your rabbit.\\n3-4. Furnish your rabbit's new condo with rabbit-friendly accessories.\\nRemember that rabbits will chew just about anything they can reach, so keep the condo free of anything that could be potentially hazardous.\\nTips\\nIf you have any extra grids left over, you can tie them together to form makeshift baby gates to help rabbit-proof other areas when you let your rabbit out.\\nNever use a rabbit condo design the calls for chicken-wire. Rabbits can chew through chicken wire and hurt themselves by sticking their heads through the sharp ends of the chewed mesh.\\nYou could also use grids for the floor of the upper levels, provided you put plywood over it, as the mesh will hurt the rabbit's feet, and cardboard is too flimsy.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A rabbit condo refers to a space efficient indoor enclosure that people keep in their homes for pet rabbits. The somewhat modular design allows you to tailor the condo perfectly for your space, and many people build rabbit condos that are two or even three levels high for their rabbits to enjoy. With a bit of time and effort, you can easily build a rabbit condo for much less money than a prebuilt enclosure of similar dimensions.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Walls of the Condo\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan a design.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase two boxes of wire storage cubes. Once you remove all of the wire mesh grids from the boxes of storage cubes, you'll know how many you have to use. Each grid square will likely be 13”x13” or 14”x14” depending on the brand you buy.\\nA common design may consist of front and back walls that are both three grids high and three grids long with side walls three grids high and two grids deep.\\nThis design gives you space to build two or three levels up for your rabbit without commandeering a large portion of any room.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Zip tie the individual walls together.\", \"描述\": \"This is the most time consuming portion of the whole project. Build one wall at a time by setting the grids together in your decided formation and zip tie the ends tightly together.\\nPlace a zip tie at each end where the two grids come together.\\nThis means that a 2x2 set of grids will have four zip ties in the middle where all four squares come together.\\nDon't forget to build one for the roof of the condo as well.\\nMake sure each zip tie is tight. Use a pair of pliers for more leverage if you need to.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Trim the excess length off each zip tie.\", \"描述\": \"You don't want to leave your rabbit anything hazardous to chew, so you should cut the excess length off each zip tie as closely as possible without breaking the tie.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Zip tie the constructed walls together.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have each individual wall built, use the same process with the zip ties but at 90-degree angles to connect the walls and form the entire structure.\\nYou may find it easier to start with the roof on the floor and turn the structure over once all the walls and roof are attached.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make a door.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have all of the walls connected, you will need to snip a few ties to make a door for getting your rabbit in and out of the condo. If you clip the ties in an upside-down L going up two grids and across one from the bottom center of the condo, then you'll easily be able to swing this section open for letting your rabbit out and also getting in to clean the condo.\\nTo prevent your rabbit from pushing the door open once you've completed the project, use three small spring clamps to hold the door shut.\\nFor an even more cost effective option, you can even use something as simple as 1 1/4” binder clips to hold the door shut.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making Levels for the Condo\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a floor for the condo.\", \"描述\": \"You most likely do not want to set the condo on top of your carpet in a room since rabbits tend to be messy. Instead, take the floor measurement of your completed design and purchase a piece of plywood that you can set the condo perfectly on top of.\\nIf you tack short pieces of plywood around 6” high to the outside of the flooring base, the condo will fit inside this lip.\\nCreating a lip gives the structure more stability and keeps hay (and anything else inside the condo) off the surrounding flooring.\\nIf you don't have tools for cutting the plywood, take the measurements to the home improvement store where you purchase the material. They'll cut it for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add a floor covering.\", \"描述\": \"Since rabbits may try to gnaw at the wood or, at the very least, soil it, you want to cover the plywood with something a bit more rabbit friendly. A cheap and simple solution is a roll of vinyl shelf liner that will be both easy to install and clean.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert the wooden dowel rods.\", \"描述\": \"The 1” wooden dowel rods will make a foundation for the upper levels of the condo. You can easily slide the rods in the spaces between the mesh before cutting them to size.\\nIf you plan to make a level that is only one or two grids wide, use two rods (one in front and one in back).\\nIf you plan on making a larger level, insert additional support rods.\\nUse 1” rods or supports because they're sturdy enough and anything larger might not fit through the mesh in the grids.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place a piece of plywood on top of the dowels to make the level.\", \"描述\": \"You'll probably want to cover this piece of plywood with something easily cleaned such as the vinyl shelf liner as well. However, you can always put a towel or something more comfortable for your rabbit on top of the liner.\\nIf you build the second level higher up, use another board as a ramp for your rabbit, though your rabbit can usually just hop up.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Condo\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place in a rabbit-proofed spot.\", \"描述\": \"Never place your new rabbit condo in a spot that isn't rabbit proofed. A corner close to electrical cords, for instance, can still lead to your rabbit chewing on something it shouldn't.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place small pieces of plywood around the base of the flooring either inside or outside.\", \"描述\": \"If you didn't add pieces of wood to the flooring base, you can simply place short (maybe 6”) pieces of plywood around the base of the condo at this point to keep hay and other objects inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw casters to the bottom of the flooring.\", \"描述\": \"If you want your new rabbit condo to be mobile so you can move it between rooms (or even just move it to clean behind it), then you can easily screw castors to the bottom of the piece of flooring plywood. This will make it very easy to roll the condo around.\\nMake sure there's a lip around the base to hold the condo in place as you push. Otherwise, you'll just push the structure off the base.\\nEnsure that none of the screws penetrate all the way through the floor of the condo since the sharp edges can hurt your rabbit.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Furnish your rabbit's new condo with rabbit-friendly accessories.\", \"描述\": \"Remember that rabbits will chew just about anything they can reach, so keep the condo free of anything that could be potentially hazardous.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you have any extra grids left over, you can tie them together to form makeshift baby gates to help rabbit-proof other areas when you let your rabbit out.\\n\", \"Never use a rabbit condo design the calls for chicken-wire. Rabbits can chew through chicken wire and hurt themselves by sticking their heads through the sharp ends of the chewed mesh.\\n\", \"You could also use grids for the floor of the upper levels, provided you put plywood over it, as the mesh will hurt the rabbit's feet, and cardboard is too flimsy.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,490 |
How to Build a Rabbit Hutch
|
1. Prepping Your Supplies
1-1. Plan out the design.
Most hutches are made out of a wood frame with wire windows and doors. When thinking about the size of your hutch, consider how many rabbits will be staying in it. They’ll need enough room to move around, roughly 4 times the body size per rabbit. A minimum height of 16 inches (41 cm) is also a good idea.
For example, if your rabbit is 5 inches (13 cm) wide and 10 inches (25 cm) long, then it needs 4.2 feet (1.3 m) square footage of space.
If you will be housing multiple rabbits in a single hutch, consider whether or not you’ll want to add in dividers. This can be useful when you want to separate individual animals.
Try to keep your hutch less than 30 inches (76 cm) deep. If you go deeper than this, it can be difficult to reach inside and get out your rabbits without a struggle.
1-2. Get sturdy wood for the frame and supports.
Use 2 by 4 inches (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood pieces for the frame and 4 by 4 inches (10 by 10 cm) wood pieces for the posts. Look for wood that is straight, not warped. Do not choose pieces with large knots or signs of splitting at the edges. The amount of wood pieces that you’ll need will depend on the size of your hutch.
Untreated pine wood is a good choice for the frame and supports. It holds up well under varying weather conditions and is nontoxic to rabbits if consumed.
For example, if you are building a hutch that will be 40” X 28” X 20”, then you’ll need 4 40 inches (100 cm) length pieces, 4 28 inches (71 cm) width pieces, and 4 20 inches (51 cm) height pieces to construct the frame.
If you want to attach a wooden door to your hutch, then you’ll need to get wood to construct a door frame and the door itself. You can generally go with a smaller size wood, such as a 1 by 1 inch (2.5 by 2.5 cm) or even 1 by ⁄2 inch (2.5 by 1.3 cm).
Give some thought to how high off the ground you’ll want your hutch to be. If you want your hutch to sit 4 feet (1.2 m) off the ground, then you’ll need 4 4 feet (1.2 m) posts as supports.
1-3. Choose plywood for the floor and roof.
You’ll need 1 roof piece of wood and 1 flooring piece of wood that match the length and width dimensions of your hutch. Plywood comes in large sheets, so it usually a good idea to buy 1-2 sheets at the start of your project. You can then cut out the pieces that you need and use the remaining wood for other projects.
Look for plywood that is a golden or light reddish color. It should be free of large knots or signs that the wood if fraying or flaking up.
For example, if you are building a hutch that will be 40” X 28” X 20”, then you’ll need to cut out 2 plywood pieces (1 for the roof, and 1 for the floor) that are 40 by 28 inches (102 by 71 cm).
1-4. Measure your wood pieces.
Lay out all of your wood pieces, so that you can see exactly what you have to work with. Select a single piece of wood, place your measuring tape on it, and measure out the length that you’ll need. Make a mark on the final measurement spot with a pencil or marker. This is where you’ll make the cut. Repeat until all of your pieces are measured.
Divide your wood into “type sections” to make your measurements. For example, measure each support post individually, but do them back-to-back. This is better than jumping back and forth between different wood pieces for different purposes and potentially mis-measuring.
1-5. Cut your wood pieces.
Put on your safety goggles and gloves. Set up your saw horse (if you are using a hand saw) or your table saw (if you are using an attached saw). Set a single piece of wood into the saw horse or against the table saw at a time. Align the saw blade with your measurement mark and make a clean, single cut.
Make sure that you’ve read all of the instructions regarding using your saw and feel very comfortable cutting with it before attempting a complicated project, such as building a rabbit hutch.
Before you make each cut with your saw, do a quick safety check to ensure that your limbs are in the proper position and away from the trajectory of the saw blade.
If you do not have a saw or are not comfortable using one, many hardware or home improvement stores will actually cut your wood pieces for you. You’ll simply need to buy the wood in store, provide them with your measurements for each piece, and then wait for the cuts to be completed by a staff member.
1-6. Select your wire mesh pieces.
The best wire to use is 14 or 16 gauge galvanized, as it will not break if your rabbit tries to chew on it. Use 1 by 2 inches (2.5 by 5.1 cm) rabbit mesh for the sides and door. Use ⁄2 by 1 inch (1.3 by 2.5 cm) weave rabbit mesh for the flooring. The smooth mesh will protect your rabbit’s feet.
Don’t use chicken wire for your hutch, as it is not strong enough to contain rabbits.
You can buy your mesh from an animal specialty store online in a roll or in pre-cut panels. Most traditional hardware stores do not carry rabbit mesh in the appropriate specs.
1-7. Cut your wire mesh pieces.
Use a pair of wire cutters to snip your cage wire into pieces that will fit on the outside of your hutch. You will need 4 pieces for the sides. You may also need to cut out an additional piece of wire to fit your wooden doorframe.
1-8. Set out the rest of your supplies.
Purchase shingles for the roof if you know that your hutch will be exposed to any kind of outdoor weather. This will maximize the life of your roof. Get 2 hinges and a sliding bolt lock mechanism for your cage door.
You can purchase the shingles and the lock materials at most hardware stores. You’ll need shingles that can slightly overlap and still cover the same dimension of the roof.
2. Setting up the Basic Structure
2-1. Screw together your 2 end sections.
Use wood screws to attach 2 of the width pieces to 2 of the height pieces. They should form a rectangle once connected. The width pieces should be opposite one another, the same with the height pieces. Then, do the same process again with your remaining 4 short pieces of wood. You should now have 2 rectangles that will form the ends of your hutch.
2-2. Attach the length pieces to the ends.
Use wood screws to secure each single length piece of wood so that it runs from the corner of one end to the corner of the other completed end. Continue until you’ve screwed in all 4 long pieces. In the end, your rabbit hutch frame should resemble a three-dimensional rectangle.
2-3. Attach the mesh to the wood frame.
Rotate the frame on the ground until it is properly positioned, minus the supports. This will help you to visualize how to attach the mesh. Get each cut mesh piece and secure it to one of the open spaces in the frame using an industrial staple gun and staples. Use about a staple every inch or so (or every several centimeters) to secure the mesh to prevent any gaps from forming.
Make sure that you hold the mesh tight as you attach it. For that reason, it really helps to have another person help you with this stage of the building process.
2-4. Attach the top and bottom last.
With the hutch facing upright, position your roof on top of the frame. Screw it in to the frame around the edges. Get another person to help you flip the hutch over on to its top, so the bottom if facing upwards. Position the flooring plywood on the frame and screw it in securely. Flip the hutch back over carefully.
You can use a simple piece of cut plywood as a divider. To keep the air moving in the cage, it’s best if you punch or bore out a few smooth holes into the wood before inserting it.
2-5. Create the door.
Use your wire cutters to cut the mesh and make a space in the front of the cage for a door. Roll pieces of plastic trim over the newly exposed edges of the wire mesh. You can also make a square wood frame for your door, attach two hinges to it, and then cover it with wire mesh before installing it. Or, you can make your door out of wire alone. Attach the door to the main structure using c-rings or staples.
A wire door is simpler to create. However, it can become difficult to open and close over time. A wood door is sturdier. However, it takes more time to construct.
Consider adding a latch for your door as well. This will help to prevent the possibility of your rabbits’ escaping. A simple sliding latch is the best option for a wooden door. If you use a wire door, then you may want to go with a wire hook latch.
2-6. Attach the support posts.
With a helper, flip the hutch upside down once more. Then, use a combination of L-brackets and wood screws to secure the legs posts to the base. You should attach a single leg to each of the 4 corners of the frame.
3. Installing and Finishing Your Hutch
3-1. Add shingles and drainage.
A shingled roof is not a necessity for a rabbit hutch, but it will make it last longer. Nail down shingles or metal roofing pieces onto a plywood foundation on the top of your hutch. If you are worried about drainage, extend the shingles so that they slightly overhang the edges of the hutch. You can also stack them to create a slight downward angle.
If you add a layer of tar paper under the shingles, this will create even more water protection.
3-2. Find a safe and secure location for your hutch.
You want a spot that will not be too noisy or subject to too much foot traffic. It’s best if the area is away from any overly forested areas that wildlife might live in or frequent. If you can position your hutch under a tree to keep it from direct sunlight 24/7, that’s even better.
It’s also a good idea to place your hutch in a spot where you can easily keep an eye on it and its inhabitants.
3-3. Secure the support posts using concrete.
Most hutches are heavy enough that they don’t require any additional stability aside from their own weight. However, if you are worried about your hutch moving or tipping over, then you can dig 4 holes in the ground in the future locations of your support posts. Then, place the posts into the holes, checking to make sure that the hutch is balanced, and add a bit of ready mixed concrete into each of them.
3-4. Add in food, water, floor coverings, and toys.
You can set the food bowl directly on the floor, but you’ll want to hook the water bottle to the side of the cage. You can add straw or unbleached shredded paper to the floor. This will help to protect your rabbit’s delicate feet. Make sure to throw in a few favorite toys as well.
Tips
In the open space underneath your hutch, you can attach lattice panels. This will make it possible to use this space for storage.[4]
X
Research source
You can also make multiple single hutches and then attach them together at the sides for multiple rabbits. A multi-hutch is great if you have a large number of rabbits and you may need extra space to isolate newcomers or sick animals.[5]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:57",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Prepping Your Supplies\\n1-1. Plan out the design.\\nMost hutches are made out of a wood frame with wire windows and doors. When thinking about the size of your hutch, consider how many rabbits will be staying in it. They’ll need enough room to move around, roughly 4 times the body size per rabbit. A minimum height of 16 inches (41 cm) is also a good idea.\\nFor example, if your rabbit is 5 inches (13 cm) wide and 10 inches (25 cm) long, then it needs 4.2 feet (1.3 m) square footage of space.\\nIf you will be housing multiple rabbits in a single hutch, consider whether or not you’ll want to add in dividers. This can be useful when you want to separate individual animals.\\nTry to keep your hutch less than 30 inches (76 cm) deep. If you go deeper than this, it can be difficult to reach inside and get out your rabbits without a struggle.\\n1-2. Get sturdy wood for the frame and supports.\\nUse 2 by 4 inches (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood pieces for the frame and 4 by 4 inches (10 by 10 cm) wood pieces for the posts. Look for wood that is straight, not warped. Do not choose pieces with large knots or signs of splitting at the edges. The amount of wood pieces that you’ll need will depend on the size of your hutch.\\nUntreated pine wood is a good choice for the frame and supports. It holds up well under varying weather conditions and is nontoxic to rabbits if consumed.\\nFor example, if you are building a hutch that will be 40” X 28” X 20”, then you’ll need 4 40 inches (100 cm) length pieces, 4 28 inches (71 cm) width pieces, and 4 20 inches (51 cm) height pieces to construct the frame.\\nIf you want to attach a wooden door to your hutch, then you’ll need to get wood to construct a door frame and the door itself. You can generally go with a smaller size wood, such as a 1 by 1 inch (2.5 by 2.5 cm) or even 1 by ⁄2 inch (2.5 by 1.3 cm).\\nGive some thought to how high off the ground you’ll want your hutch to be. If you want your hutch to sit 4 feet (1.2 m) off the ground, then you’ll need 4 4 feet (1.2 m) posts as supports.\\n1-3. Choose plywood for the floor and roof.\\nYou’ll need 1 roof piece of wood and 1 flooring piece of wood that match the length and width dimensions of your hutch. Plywood comes in large sheets, so it usually a good idea to buy 1-2 sheets at the start of your project. You can then cut out the pieces that you need and use the remaining wood for other projects.\\nLook for plywood that is a golden or light reddish color. It should be free of large knots or signs that the wood if fraying or flaking up.\\nFor example, if you are building a hutch that will be 40” X 28” X 20”, then you’ll need to cut out 2 plywood pieces (1 for the roof, and 1 for the floor) that are 40 by 28 inches (102 by 71 cm).\\n1-4. Measure your wood pieces.\\nLay out all of your wood pieces, so that you can see exactly what you have to work with. Select a single piece of wood, place your measuring tape on it, and measure out the length that you’ll need. Make a mark on the final measurement spot with a pencil or marker. This is where you’ll make the cut. Repeat until all of your pieces are measured.\\nDivide your wood into “type sections” to make your measurements. For example, measure each support post individually, but do them back-to-back. This is better than jumping back and forth between different wood pieces for different purposes and potentially mis-measuring.\\n1-5. Cut your wood pieces.\\nPut on your safety goggles and gloves. Set up your saw horse (if you are using a hand saw) or your table saw (if you are using an attached saw). Set a single piece of wood into the saw horse or against the table saw at a time. Align the saw blade with your measurement mark and make a clean, single cut.\\nMake sure that you’ve read all of the instructions regarding using your saw and feel very comfortable cutting with it before attempting a complicated project, such as building a rabbit hutch.\\nBefore you make each cut with your saw, do a quick safety check to ensure that your limbs are in the proper position and away from the trajectory of the saw blade.\\nIf you do not have a saw or are not comfortable using one, many hardware or home improvement stores will actually cut your wood pieces for you. You’ll simply need to buy the wood in store, provide them with your measurements for each piece, and then wait for the cuts to be completed by a staff member.\\n1-6. Select your wire mesh pieces.\\nThe best wire to use is 14 or 16 gauge galvanized, as it will not break if your rabbit tries to chew on it. Use 1 by 2 inches (2.5 by 5.1 cm) rabbit mesh for the sides and door. Use ⁄2 by 1 inch (1.3 by 2.5 cm) weave rabbit mesh for the flooring. The smooth mesh will protect your rabbit’s feet.\\nDon’t use chicken wire for your hutch, as it is not strong enough to contain rabbits.\\nYou can buy your mesh from an animal specialty store online in a roll or in pre-cut panels. Most traditional hardware stores do not carry rabbit mesh in the appropriate specs.\\n1-7. Cut your wire mesh pieces.\\nUse a pair of wire cutters to snip your cage wire into pieces that will fit on the outside of your hutch. You will need 4 pieces for the sides. You may also need to cut out an additional piece of wire to fit your wooden doorframe.\\n1-8. Set out the rest of your supplies.\\nPurchase shingles for the roof if you know that your hutch will be exposed to any kind of outdoor weather. This will maximize the life of your roof. Get 2 hinges and a sliding bolt lock mechanism for your cage door.\\nYou can purchase the shingles and the lock materials at most hardware stores. You’ll need shingles that can slightly overlap and still cover the same dimension of the roof.\\n2. Setting up the Basic Structure\\n2-1. Screw together your 2 end sections.\\nUse wood screws to attach 2 of the width pieces to 2 of the height pieces. They should form a rectangle once connected. The width pieces should be opposite one another, the same with the height pieces. Then, do the same process again with your remaining 4 short pieces of wood. You should now have 2 rectangles that will form the ends of your hutch.\\n2-2. Attach the length pieces to the ends.\\nUse wood screws to secure each single length piece of wood so that it runs from the corner of one end to the corner of the other completed end. Continue until you’ve screwed in all 4 long pieces. In the end, your rabbit hutch frame should resemble a three-dimensional rectangle.\\n2-3. Attach the mesh to the wood frame.\\nRotate the frame on the ground until it is properly positioned, minus the supports. This will help you to visualize how to attach the mesh. Get each cut mesh piece and secure it to one of the open spaces in the frame using an industrial staple gun and staples. Use about a staple every inch or so (or every several centimeters) to secure the mesh to prevent any gaps from forming.\\nMake sure that you hold the mesh tight as you attach it. For that reason, it really helps to have another person help you with this stage of the building process.\\n2-4. Attach the top and bottom last.\\nWith the hutch facing upright, position your roof on top of the frame. Screw it in to the frame around the edges. Get another person to help you flip the hutch over on to its top, so the bottom if facing upwards. Position the flooring plywood on the frame and screw it in securely. Flip the hutch back over carefully.\\nYou can use a simple piece of cut plywood as a divider. To keep the air moving in the cage, it’s best if you punch or bore out a few smooth holes into the wood before inserting it.\\n2-5. Create the door.\\nUse your wire cutters to cut the mesh and make a space in the front of the cage for a door. Roll pieces of plastic trim over the newly exposed edges of the wire mesh. You can also make a square wood frame for your door, attach two hinges to it, and then cover it with wire mesh before installing it. Or, you can make your door out of wire alone. Attach the door to the main structure using c-rings or staples.\\nA wire door is simpler to create. However, it can become difficult to open and close over time. A wood door is sturdier. However, it takes more time to construct.\\nConsider adding a latch for your door as well. This will help to prevent the possibility of your rabbits’ escaping. A simple sliding latch is the best option for a wooden door. If you use a wire door, then you may want to go with a wire hook latch.\\n2-6. Attach the support posts.\\nWith a helper, flip the hutch upside down once more. Then, use a combination of L-brackets and wood screws to secure the legs posts to the base. You should attach a single leg to each of the 4 corners of the frame.\\n3. Installing and Finishing Your Hutch\\n3-1. Add shingles and drainage.\\nA shingled roof is not a necessity for a rabbit hutch, but it will make it last longer. Nail down shingles or metal roofing pieces onto a plywood foundation on the top of your hutch. If you are worried about drainage, extend the shingles so that they slightly overhang the edges of the hutch. You can also stack them to create a slight downward angle.\\nIf you add a layer of tar paper under the shingles, this will create even more water protection.\\n3-2. Find a safe and secure location for your hutch.\\nYou want a spot that will not be too noisy or subject to too much foot traffic. It’s best if the area is away from any overly forested areas that wildlife might live in or frequent. If you can position your hutch under a tree to keep it from direct sunlight 24/7, that’s even better.\\nIt’s also a good idea to place your hutch in a spot where you can easily keep an eye on it and its inhabitants.\\n3-3. Secure the support posts using concrete.\\nMost hutches are heavy enough that they don’t require any additional stability aside from their own weight. However, if you are worried about your hutch moving or tipping over, then you can dig 4 holes in the ground in the future locations of your support posts. Then, place the posts into the holes, checking to make sure that the hutch is balanced, and add a bit of ready mixed concrete into each of them.\\n3-4. Add in food, water, floor coverings, and toys.\\nYou can set the food bowl directly on the floor, but you’ll want to hook the water bottle to the side of the cage. You can add straw or unbleached shredded paper to the floor. This will help to protect your rabbit’s delicate feet. Make sure to throw in a few favorite toys as well.\\nTips\\nIn the open space underneath your hutch, you can attach lattice panels. This will make it possible to use this space for storage.[4]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nYou can also make multiple single hutches and then attach them together at the sides for multiple rabbits. A multi-hutch is great if you have a large number of rabbits and you may need extra space to isolate newcomers or sick animals.[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A rabbit hutch is a great way to keep your rabbit safe, while giving it the freedom to run around and explore. You’ll first want to consider how large to make your hutch. It needs to be sizeable enough to accommodate all of your rabbits when they reach maturity. To construct your hutch, piece together a basic wood rectangle frame. Add wire to the outside and customize it with a cut-out door. Make the hutch even more comfortable for rabbits by including familiar food bowls and toys.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepping Your Supplies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan out the design.\", \"描述\": \"Most hutches are made out of a wood frame with wire windows and doors. When thinking about the size of your hutch, consider how many rabbits will be staying in it. They’ll need enough room to move around, roughly 4 times the body size per rabbit. A minimum height of 16 inches (41 cm) is also a good idea.\\nFor example, if your rabbit is 5 inches (13 cm) wide and 10 inches (25 cm) long, then it needs 4.2 feet (1.3 m) square footage of space.\\nIf you will be housing multiple rabbits in a single hutch, consider whether or not you’ll want to add in dividers. This can be useful when you want to separate individual animals.\\nTry to keep your hutch less than 30 inches (76 cm) deep. If you go deeper than this, it can be difficult to reach inside and get out your rabbits without a struggle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get sturdy wood for the frame and supports.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2 by 4 inches (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood pieces for the frame and 4 by 4 inches (10 by 10 cm) wood pieces for the posts. Look for wood that is straight, not warped. Do not choose pieces with large knots or signs of splitting at the edges. The amount of wood pieces that you’ll need will depend on the size of your hutch.\\nUntreated pine wood is a good choice for the frame and supports. It holds up well under varying weather conditions and is nontoxic to rabbits if consumed.\\nFor example, if you are building a hutch that will be 40” X 28” X 20”, then you’ll need 4 40 inches (100 cm) length pieces, 4 28 inches (71 cm) width pieces, and 4 20 inches (51 cm) height pieces to construct the frame.\\nIf you want to attach a wooden door to your hutch, then you’ll need to get wood to construct a door frame and the door itself. You can generally go with a smaller size wood, such as a 1 by 1 inch (2.5 by 2.5 cm) or even 1 by ⁄2 inch (2.5 by 1.3 cm).\\nGive some thought to how high off the ground you’ll want your hutch to be. If you want your hutch to sit 4 feet (1.2 m) off the ground, then you’ll need 4 4 feet (1.2 m) posts as supports.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose plywood for the floor and roof.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need 1 roof piece of wood and 1 flooring piece of wood that match the length and width dimensions of your hutch. Plywood comes in large sheets, so it usually a good idea to buy 1-2 sheets at the start of your project. You can then cut out the pieces that you need and use the remaining wood for other projects.\\nLook for plywood that is a golden or light reddish color. It should be free of large knots or signs that the wood if fraying or flaking up.\\nFor example, if you are building a hutch that will be 40” X 28” X 20”, then you’ll need to cut out 2 plywood pieces (1 for the roof, and 1 for the floor) that are 40 by 28 inches (102 by 71 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure your wood pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out all of your wood pieces, so that you can see exactly what you have to work with. Select a single piece of wood, place your measuring tape on it, and measure out the length that you’ll need. Make a mark on the final measurement spot with a pencil or marker. This is where you’ll make the cut. Repeat until all of your pieces are measured.\\nDivide your wood into “type sections” to make your measurements. For example, measure each support post individually, but do them back-to-back. This is better than jumping back and forth between different wood pieces for different purposes and potentially mis-measuring.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut your wood pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Put on your safety goggles and gloves. Set up your saw horse (if you are using a hand saw) or your table saw (if you are using an attached saw). Set a single piece of wood into the saw horse or against the table saw at a time. Align the saw blade with your measurement mark and make a clean, single cut.\\nMake sure that you’ve read all of the instructions regarding using your saw and feel very comfortable cutting with it before attempting a complicated project, such as building a rabbit hutch.\\nBefore you make each cut with your saw, do a quick safety check to ensure that your limbs are in the proper position and away from the trajectory of the saw blade.\\nIf you do not have a saw or are not comfortable using one, many hardware or home improvement stores will actually cut your wood pieces for you. You’ll simply need to buy the wood in store, provide them with your measurements for each piece, and then wait for the cuts to be completed by a staff member.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Select your wire mesh pieces.\", \"描述\": \"The best wire to use is 14 or 16 gauge galvanized, as it will not break if your rabbit tries to chew on it. Use 1 by 2 inches (2.5 by 5.1 cm) rabbit mesh for the sides and door. Use ⁄2 by 1 inch (1.3 by 2.5 cm) weave rabbit mesh for the flooring. The smooth mesh will protect your rabbit’s feet.\\nDon’t use chicken wire for your hutch, as it is not strong enough to contain rabbits.\\nYou can buy your mesh from an animal specialty store online in a roll or in pre-cut panels. Most traditional hardware stores do not carry rabbit mesh in the appropriate specs.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut your wire mesh pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pair of wire cutters to snip your cage wire into pieces that will fit on the outside of your hutch. You will need 4 pieces for the sides. You may also need to cut out an additional piece of wire to fit your wooden doorframe.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Set out the rest of your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase shingles for the roof if you know that your hutch will be exposed to any kind of outdoor weather. This will maximize the life of your roof. Get 2 hinges and a sliding bolt lock mechanism for your cage door.\\nYou can purchase the shingles and the lock materials at most hardware stores. You’ll need shingles that can slightly overlap and still cover the same dimension of the roof.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Setting up the Basic Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Screw together your 2 end sections.\", \"描述\": \"Use wood screws to attach 2 of the width pieces to 2 of the height pieces. They should form a rectangle once connected. The width pieces should be opposite one another, the same with the height pieces. Then, do the same process again with your remaining 4 short pieces of wood. You should now have 2 rectangles that will form the ends of your hutch.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the length pieces to the ends.\", \"描述\": \"Use wood screws to secure each single length piece of wood so that it runs from the corner of one end to the corner of the other completed end. Continue until you’ve screwed in all 4 long pieces. In the end, your rabbit hutch frame should resemble a three-dimensional rectangle.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the mesh to the wood frame.\", \"描述\": \"Rotate the frame on the ground until it is properly positioned, minus the supports. This will help you to visualize how to attach the mesh. Get each cut mesh piece and secure it to one of the open spaces in the frame using an industrial staple gun and staples. Use about a staple every inch or so (or every several centimeters) to secure the mesh to prevent any gaps from forming.\\nMake sure that you hold the mesh tight as you attach it. For that reason, it really helps to have another person help you with this stage of the building process.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the top and bottom last.\", \"描述\": \"With the hutch facing upright, position your roof on top of the frame. Screw it in to the frame around the edges. Get another person to help you flip the hutch over on to its top, so the bottom if facing upwards. Position the flooring plywood on the frame and screw it in securely. Flip the hutch back over carefully.\\nYou can use a simple piece of cut plywood as a divider. To keep the air moving in the cage, it’s best if you punch or bore out a few smooth holes into the wood before inserting it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create the door.\", \"描述\": \"Use your wire cutters to cut the mesh and make a space in the front of the cage for a door. Roll pieces of plastic trim over the newly exposed edges of the wire mesh. You can also make a square wood frame for your door, attach two hinges to it, and then cover it with wire mesh before installing it. Or, you can make your door out of wire alone. Attach the door to the main structure using c-rings or staples.\\nA wire door is simpler to create. However, it can become difficult to open and close over time. A wood door is sturdier. However, it takes more time to construct.\\nConsider adding a latch for your door as well. This will help to prevent the possibility of your rabbits’ escaping. A simple sliding latch is the best option for a wooden door. If you use a wire door, then you may want to go with a wire hook latch.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the support posts.\", \"描述\": \"With a helper, flip the hutch upside down once more. Then, use a combination of L-brackets and wood screws to secure the legs posts to the base. You should attach a single leg to each of the 4 corners of the frame.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing and Finishing Your Hutch\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add shingles and drainage.\", \"描述\": \"A shingled roof is not a necessity for a rabbit hutch, but it will make it last longer. Nail down shingles or metal roofing pieces onto a plywood foundation on the top of your hutch. If you are worried about drainage, extend the shingles so that they slightly overhang the edges of the hutch. You can also stack them to create a slight downward angle.\\nIf you add a layer of tar paper under the shingles, this will create even more water protection.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a safe and secure location for your hutch.\", \"描述\": \"You want a spot that will not be too noisy or subject to too much foot traffic. It’s best if the area is away from any overly forested areas that wildlife might live in or frequent. If you can position your hutch under a tree to keep it from direct sunlight 24/7, that’s even better.\\nIt’s also a good idea to place your hutch in a spot where you can easily keep an eye on it and its inhabitants.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Secure the support posts using concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Most hutches are heavy enough that they don’t require any additional stability aside from their own weight. However, if you are worried about your hutch moving or tipping over, then you can dig 4 holes in the ground in the future locations of your support posts. Then, place the posts into the holes, checking to make sure that the hutch is balanced, and add a bit of ready mixed concrete into each of them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add in food, water, floor coverings, and toys.\", \"描述\": \"You can set the food bowl directly on the floor, but you’ll want to hook the water bottle to the side of the cage. You can add straw or unbleached shredded paper to the floor. This will help to protect your rabbit’s delicate feet. Make sure to throw in a few favorite toys as well.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"In the open space underneath your hutch, you can attach lattice panels. This will make it possible to use this space for storage.[4]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"You can also make multiple single hutches and then attach them together at the sides for multiple rabbits. A multi-hutch is great if you have a large number of rabbits and you may need extra space to isolate newcomers or sick animals.[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,491 |
How to Build a Rabbit Run
|
1. Understanding the Need for a Rabbit Run
1-1. Know rabbits need to run.
Rabbits need a great deal of exercise because they are prey animals; in the wild, they must say in shape to stay alive. They will need to run and jump for at least two to three hours a day.
If your rabbit has the run of the house, then you don't necessarily need a run unless you feel the need to take your rabbit outside.
1-2. Understand the purpose of a run.
A run provides a great place for your rabbit to exercise, keeping them contained. However, it also protects them from predators. Runs are enclosed on all sides and the top, so most predators cannot get in.
1-3. Establish a good size.
Any cage that you keep your rabbit in for extended periods of time should be at least 2 feet by 4 feet, at least for medium rabbits or smaller. However, if you can, you should make the run bigger for your rabbit.
1-4. Include a hutch.
If you plan on leaving your bunnies outside, they also need a shelter, known as a hutch. A run is great for exercise, but a hutch is the bunnies' home.
1-5. Always pick a shady location.
If you don't have a shady location available to you, you should cover your hutch with more than just wire. You can use anything that will provide shade, even a tarp.
2. Making a Simple Wire Cage
2-1. Gather your materials.
You'll need a cage kit, which comes with wire modular pieces. You'll also need some zip ties or hinges or a hammer and nails, available at most home improvement stores.
2-2. Attach two pieces together.
Place two pieces next to each other. Use two zip ties, one at the top and one at the bottom, to bring the two pieces together. If the pieces aren't very high, you may need to make another layer on top. Use the zip ties to add the top layer as well. You want it to be 3 to 4 feet high.
2-3. Continue moving around the pen.
Continue adding pieces to the pen, until you have one that is an appropriate size. For instance, if your pieces are 2 feet wide, you'll need at least two pieces on each side and one piece on each end.
2-4. Create a door.
The easiest way to create a door is to attach one panel only one side. That way, it will swing out, up, or down. You can keep it closed with a clip or clothespin.
2-5. Consider replacing the zip ties.
You may want to replace the zip ties with a hinge or metal j clips, which are more secure and more visually appealing. The zip ties can be helpful for keeping the cage in place while you work.
If you leave the zip ties, make sure they are facing outward. Your bunny is likely to chew on anything inside the cage, so point the ends of the zip ties outward. Make sure you pull them tight and clip off any excess.
2-6. Build a roof.
Use the same pieces to build a roof. Lay the piece on top, and attach on the sides and in the corner. Keep attaching the pieces to each other and the sides until you have a solid roof.
2-7. Build a floor for a more permanent run.
If you plan on leaving bunnies in this run unsupervised outside, then you need to add wire pieces across the floor, too. Rabbits can burrow out from under the cage. However, you need a more solid floor for your rabbit's feet, so use either wood or a very thick layer of straw on the bottom. Indoors, you can use utility mats to cover the bottom instead of wire, as they won't burrow into your floor.
3. Making a Rabbit Run Out of Aviary Panels
3-1. Design your run first.
Aviary panels come in several styles. Basically, they are made with a wood frame and wire. Some are wire all along the side, while other panels have door openings or are solid wood on one end.
Generally, they are long enough that you can build a pen you can walk into. However, you can also turn them so the length runs along the ground, creating a much shorter pen. For instance, you could use the kind of panels that are solid on one end to create an impromptu hutch for your rabbit.
3-2. Buy the appropriate panels.
Once you've decided on a design, buy panels to match your design. You should be able to find these at farm and tractor stores or home improvement stores. They were originally designed for birds, which is why farm and tractor stores may have them.
3-3. Decide on a location.
If you put the aviary panels over concrete, you do not need to build in a mesh floor. However, if you are building it over grass or dirt, you will need to add in wire underneath the grass.
3-4. Add wire if needed.
Use wire meant to keep gophers out, referred to as "gopher wire." You can lay it out under the cage. You can hammer in ground staples to keep it in place. Normally, this wire would go under the sod, but as that's not usually an option with rabbit hutches, you can add it on top of the grass.
However, be sure to cover the bottom of the cage with plenty of fresh straw to protect your rabbit's feet and to change the straw out regularly.
Be sure to push the wire ends into the ground, so no one gets scratched on them.
You can also put in a wood floor, if you prefer.
3-5. Join the panels.
You can use screws or nails to join the panels, just as you would any wooden frame. If you use screws, you can take it apart later and make it into a new configuration if you would like. Another simple option is brackets and screws.
To join using brackets and screws, lay the panels flat on the floor. Make sure they are as close as possible. Lay out 6 brackets along the seam. Use a drill to pre-drill holes where the screws will go. Drill in the screws. For corners, use corner brackets.
3-6. Don't forget to use a door.
The easiest way to leave a door on your hutch is to use an aviary panel with a door already installed. However, you can also use hinges instead of brackets on one of the panels, so that it swings out. The hinges are installed basically the same way as the brackets; you'll also need to add a latch for your door.
Tips
Put toys in the pen. Chew toys are especially important for rabbits.[22]
X
Trustworthy Source
American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals
Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty
Go to source
Warnings
Keeping your rabbit outside all the time can be dangerous, as if a predator approaches, she can literally have a heart attack. Also, if she's the only bunny you have, she'll get lonely by herself, as rabbits are very social.[23]
X
Trustworthy Source
American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals
Leading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty
Go to source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:57",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Understanding the Need for a Rabbit Run\\n1-1. Know rabbits need to run.\\nRabbits need a great deal of exercise because they are prey animals; in the wild, they must say in shape to stay alive. They will need to run and jump for at least two to three hours a day.\\nIf your rabbit has the run of the house, then you don't necessarily need a run unless you feel the need to take your rabbit outside.\\n1-2. Understand the purpose of a run.\\nA run provides a great place for your rabbit to exercise, keeping them contained. However, it also protects them from predators. Runs are enclosed on all sides and the top, so most predators cannot get in.\\n1-3. Establish a good size.\\nAny cage that you keep your rabbit in for extended periods of time should be at least 2 feet by 4 feet, at least for medium rabbits or smaller. However, if you can, you should make the run bigger for your rabbit.\\n1-4. Include a hutch.\\nIf you plan on leaving your bunnies outside, they also need a shelter, known as a hutch. A run is great for exercise, but a hutch is the bunnies' home.\\n1-5. Always pick a shady location.\\nIf you don't have a shady location available to you, you should cover your hutch with more than just wire. You can use anything that will provide shade, even a tarp.\\n2. Making a Simple Wire Cage\\n2-1. Gather your materials.\\nYou'll need a cage kit, which comes with wire modular pieces. You'll also need some zip ties or hinges or a hammer and nails, available at most home improvement stores.\\n2-2. Attach two pieces together.\\nPlace two pieces next to each other. Use two zip ties, one at the top and one at the bottom, to bring the two pieces together. If the pieces aren't very high, you may need to make another layer on top. Use the zip ties to add the top layer as well. You want it to be 3 to 4 feet high.\\n2-3. Continue moving around the pen.\\nContinue adding pieces to the pen, until you have one that is an appropriate size. For instance, if your pieces are 2 feet wide, you'll need at least two pieces on each side and one piece on each end.\\n2-4. Create a door.\\nThe easiest way to create a door is to attach one panel only one side. That way, it will swing out, up, or down. You can keep it closed with a clip or clothespin.\\n2-5. Consider replacing the zip ties.\\nYou may want to replace the zip ties with a hinge or metal j clips, which are more secure and more visually appealing. The zip ties can be helpful for keeping the cage in place while you work.\\nIf you leave the zip ties, make sure they are facing outward. Your bunny is likely to chew on anything inside the cage, so point the ends of the zip ties outward. Make sure you pull them tight and clip off any excess.\\n2-6. Build a roof.\\nUse the same pieces to build a roof. Lay the piece on top, and attach on the sides and in the corner. Keep attaching the pieces to each other and the sides until you have a solid roof.\\n2-7. Build a floor for a more permanent run.\\nIf you plan on leaving bunnies in this run unsupervised outside, then you need to add wire pieces across the floor, too. Rabbits can burrow out from under the cage. However, you need a more solid floor for your rabbit's feet, so use either wood or a very thick layer of straw on the bottom. Indoors, you can use utility mats to cover the bottom instead of wire, as they won't burrow into your floor.\\n3. Making a Rabbit Run Out of Aviary Panels\\n3-1. Design your run first.\\nAviary panels come in several styles. Basically, they are made with a wood frame and wire. Some are wire all along the side, while other panels have door openings or are solid wood on one end.\\nGenerally, they are long enough that you can build a pen you can walk into. However, you can also turn them so the length runs along the ground, creating a much shorter pen. For instance, you could use the kind of panels that are solid on one end to create an impromptu hutch for your rabbit.\\n3-2. Buy the appropriate panels.\\nOnce you've decided on a design, buy panels to match your design. You should be able to find these at farm and tractor stores or home improvement stores. They were originally designed for birds, which is why farm and tractor stores may have them.\\n3-3. Decide on a location.\\nIf you put the aviary panels over concrete, you do not need to build in a mesh floor. However, if you are building it over grass or dirt, you will need to add in wire underneath the grass.\\n3-4. Add wire if needed.\\nUse wire meant to keep gophers out, referred to as \\\"gopher wire.\\\" You can lay it out under the cage. You can hammer in ground staples to keep it in place. Normally, this wire would go under the sod, but as that's not usually an option with rabbit hutches, you can add it on top of the grass.\\nHowever, be sure to cover the bottom of the cage with plenty of fresh straw to protect your rabbit's feet and to change the straw out regularly.\\nBe sure to push the wire ends into the ground, so no one gets scratched on them.\\nYou can also put in a wood floor, if you prefer.\\n3-5. Join the panels.\\nYou can use screws or nails to join the panels, just as you would any wooden frame. If you use screws, you can take it apart later and make it into a new configuration if you would like. Another simple option is brackets and screws.\\nTo join using brackets and screws, lay the panels flat on the floor. Make sure they are as close as possible. Lay out 6 brackets along the seam. Use a drill to pre-drill holes where the screws will go. Drill in the screws. For corners, use corner brackets.\\n3-6. Don't forget to use a door.\\nThe easiest way to leave a door on your hutch is to use an aviary panel with a door already installed. However, you can also use hinges instead of brackets on one of the panels, so that it swings out. The hinges are installed basically the same way as the brackets; you'll also need to add a latch for your door.\\nTips\\nPut toys in the pen. Chew toys are especially important for rabbits.[22]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nAmerican Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals\\nLeading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty\\nGo to source\\nWarnings\\nKeeping your rabbit outside all the time can be dangerous, as if a predator approaches, she can literally have a heart attack. Also, if she's the only bunny you have, she'll get lonely by herself, as rabbits are very social.[23]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nAmerican Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals\\nLeading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty\\nGo to source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a rabbit run is not that difficult, especially if you use pre-built panels. You can create a simple run out of wire panels, or a more complicated one out of aviary panels. The wire run can be used indoors or out, while the aviary panel kind is better outdoors.\\nVeterinarian Pippa Elliott MRCVS reminds us of the importance of UV light: \\\"Building a run is a great way to get rabbits outside in natural sunlight. Studies show us that indoor rabbits can have low vitamin D levels, which leads to poorer quality bones and teeth. Natural sunlight boosts vitamin D levels and will benefit the rabbit's health.\\\"\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understanding the Need for a Rabbit Run\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know rabbits need to run.\", \"描述\": \"Rabbits need a great deal of exercise because they are prey animals; in the wild, they must say in shape to stay alive. They will need to run and jump for at least two to three hours a day.\\nIf your rabbit has the run of the house, then you don't necessarily need a run unless you feel the need to take your rabbit outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Understand the purpose of a run.\", \"描述\": \"A run provides a great place for your rabbit to exercise, keeping them contained. However, it also protects them from predators. Runs are enclosed on all sides and the top, so most predators cannot get in.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Establish a good size.\", \"描述\": \"Any cage that you keep your rabbit in for extended periods of time should be at least 2 feet by 4 feet, at least for medium rabbits or smaller. However, if you can, you should make the run bigger for your rabbit.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Include a hutch.\", \"描述\": \"If you plan on leaving your bunnies outside, they also need a shelter, known as a hutch. A run is great for exercise, but a hutch is the bunnies' home.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Always pick a shady location.\", \"描述\": \"If you don't have a shady location available to you, you should cover your hutch with more than just wire. You can use anything that will provide shade, even a tarp.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Simple Wire Cage\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need a cage kit, which comes with wire modular pieces. You'll also need some zip ties or hinges or a hammer and nails, available at most home improvement stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach two pieces together.\", \"描述\": \"Place two pieces next to each other. Use two zip ties, one at the top and one at the bottom, to bring the two pieces together. If the pieces aren't very high, you may need to make another layer on top. Use the zip ties to add the top layer as well. You want it to be 3 to 4 feet high.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Continue moving around the pen.\", \"描述\": \"Continue adding pieces to the pen, until you have one that is an appropriate size. For instance, if your pieces are 2 feet wide, you'll need at least two pieces on each side and one piece on each end.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a door.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest way to create a door is to attach one panel only one side. That way, it will swing out, up, or down. You can keep it closed with a clip or clothespin.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider replacing the zip ties.\", \"描述\": \"You may want to replace the zip ties with a hinge or metal j clips, which are more secure and more visually appealing. The zip ties can be helpful for keeping the cage in place while you work.\\nIf you leave the zip ties, make sure they are facing outward. Your bunny is likely to chew on anything inside the cage, so point the ends of the zip ties outward. Make sure you pull them tight and clip off any excess.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build a roof.\", \"描述\": \"Use the same pieces to build a roof. Lay the piece on top, and attach on the sides and in the corner. Keep attaching the pieces to each other and the sides until you have a solid roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Build a floor for a more permanent run.\", \"描述\": \"If you plan on leaving bunnies in this run unsupervised outside, then you need to add wire pieces across the floor, too. Rabbits can burrow out from under the cage. However, you need a more solid floor for your rabbit's feet, so use either wood or a very thick layer of straw on the bottom. Indoors, you can use utility mats to cover the bottom instead of wire, as they won't burrow into your floor.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making a Rabbit Run Out of Aviary Panels\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Design your run first.\", \"描述\": \"Aviary panels come in several styles. Basically, they are made with a wood frame and wire. Some are wire all along the side, while other panels have door openings or are solid wood on one end.\\nGenerally, they are long enough that you can build a pen you can walk into. However, you can also turn them so the length runs along the ground, creating a much shorter pen. For instance, you could use the kind of panels that are solid on one end to create an impromptu hutch for your rabbit.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy the appropriate panels.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've decided on a design, buy panels to match your design. You should be able to find these at farm and tractor stores or home improvement stores. They were originally designed for birds, which is why farm and tractor stores may have them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide on a location.\", \"描述\": \"If you put the aviary panels over concrete, you do not need to build in a mesh floor. However, if you are building it over grass or dirt, you will need to add in wire underneath the grass.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add wire if needed.\", \"描述\": \"Use wire meant to keep gophers out, referred to as \\\"gopher wire.\\\" You can lay it out under the cage. You can hammer in ground staples to keep it in place. Normally, this wire would go under the sod, but as that's not usually an option with rabbit hutches, you can add it on top of the grass.\\nHowever, be sure to cover the bottom of the cage with plenty of fresh straw to protect your rabbit's feet and to change the straw out regularly.\\nBe sure to push the wire ends into the ground, so no one gets scratched on them.\\nYou can also put in a wood floor, if you prefer.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Join the panels.\", \"描述\": \"You can use screws or nails to join the panels, just as you would any wooden frame. If you use screws, you can take it apart later and make it into a new configuration if you would like. Another simple option is brackets and screws.\\nTo join using brackets and screws, lay the panels flat on the floor. Make sure they are as close as possible. Lay out 6 brackets along the seam. Use a drill to pre-drill holes where the screws will go. Drill in the screws. For corners, use corner brackets.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Don't forget to use a door.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest way to leave a door on your hutch is to use an aviary panel with a door already installed. However, you can also use hinges instead of brackets on one of the panels, so that it swings out. The hinges are installed basically the same way as the brackets; you'll also need to add a latch for your door.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Put toys in the pen. Chew toys are especially important for rabbits.[22]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nAmerican Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals\\nLeading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty\\nGo to source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Keeping your rabbit outside all the time can be dangerous, as if a predator approaches, she can literally have a heart attack. Also, if she's the only bunny you have, she'll get lonely by herself, as rabbits are very social.[23]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nAmerican Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals\\nLeading organization dedicated to the prevention of animal cruelty\\nGo to source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,492 |
How to Build a Raccoon Trap
|
1. Building a Wooden Box Trap
1-1. Cut plywood to the dimensions of your box.
Look for ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood treated for outdoor use so it doesn’t develop mold or rot. Use a handsaw or circular saw to cut plywood to size for your box. Cut 1 piece that’s 12 in × 22 in (30 cm × 56 cm), 1 piece that’s 12 in × 12 in (30 cm × 30 cm), and 3 pieces that are 12 in × 24 in (30 cm × 61 cm).
The 3 pieces that are 12 in × 24 in (30 cm × 61 cm) will be the bottom and the walls of your trap.
The 12 in × 22 in (30 cm × 56 cm) piece will be the top of your trap with room so the trap door.
The 12 in × 12 in (30 cm × 30 cm) will be the back piece.
1-2. Secure 2 pieces of wood to the bottom piece of the box to brace it.
Lay one of your 12 in × 24 in (30 cm × 61 cm) boards on a flat surface and measure in ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the long sides. Mark the distance with a pencil and lay 2 wood pieces that are ⁄4 × ⁄4 × 22 in (1.9 × 1.9 × 55.9 cm) on the insides of your lines. Use 3 screws in each wood piece and an electric screwdriver to attach them to the bottom.
The wooden pieces will act as braces to make your box trap stronger.
Make sure that one end of your wooden braces is flush with one of the short sides of the bottom. This way, your trap door will have room shut.
1-3. Cut metal panels to size with an angle grinder.
Use a metal-cutting blade on your angle grinder to easily cut through the metal panel. Cut 1 panel that’s 10 in × 11 in (25 cm × 28 cm) to use for your trap door and another panel that’s 9 in × 3 in (22.9 cm × 7.6 cm) for a trigger that will spring the trap.
Always wear safety glasses when cutting through metal so you don’t get any shavings in your eyes.
If the metal has sharp edges, use a grinding bit on your angle grinder to smooth it out so you don’t hurt the raccoon while it’s in the trap.
1-4. Drill holes ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) from a corner through each metal plate.
Use a ⁄8–⁄4 in (0.32–0.64 cm) drill bit meant for going through metal. Use a slow speed with firm pressure as you push the drill through your steel. Make a hole in one of the corners on each both of your metal plates so you can feed a wire through them to make a trigger for your trap.
1-5. Attach the 9 in × 3 in (22.9 cm × 7.6 cm) metal plate to the bottom with hinges.
Screw 1-2 sets of hinges onto the bottom of the smaller metal panel. Make sure the hole you drilled is on the upper left or right corner of the panel. Attach the hinges to the bottom of your box trap so it’s about 5 in (13 cm) from the back wall.
The metal panel acts as a trigger to set and activate the trap once a raccoon steps on it.
1-6. Screw the side and top pieces onto your box trap.
Use the bottom braces as anchor points for your screws. Put in 3-4 screws per side with an electric screwdriver to attach the walls for your box trap. Once the walls are secure, put the top panel of wood on your box trap so it’s flush with the back wall.
1-7. Cut a 20 in (51 cm) PVC pipe in half along its length.
Use an angle grinder or a circular saw to make your cuts. Clamp the pipe so it doesn’t move around as you saw it. Start at one end of the pipe and cut it in half. When you’re finished, you should have two 20 in (51 cm) long halves.
The PVC pipe makes it easier for the door to drop without getting stuck.
1-8. Screw the pipe halves to the walls and put the metal door between them.
Place the pipe halves against at the front of your trap so the rounded edges touch the walls. Use 2-3 screws per pipe to attach it to the wall pieces. Slide the 10 in × 11 in (25 cm × 28 cm) metal panel between the PVC pipes to make a door. Make sure the corner where you drilled the hole is on the bottom of the door.
Test dropping your door down into the pipes to see if it catches on any of the screws. If it does, try to make them tighter and more flush with the inside of the pipe.
1-9. Connect an 8- to 10-gauge wire between the 2 metal plates.
Loop the wire through the hole in the 9 in × 3 in (22.9 cm × 7.6 cm) panel, and wrap it around itself so it holds firmly. Run the wire through the hole in the bottom of the door so it extends out by ⁄2 in (1.3 cm).
Wire can be purchased from any hardware store.
2. Making a Garbage Can Trap
2-1. Set a garbage can next to a picnic table.
You can use either a metal or plastic garbage can as long as it’s smooth on the inside. Place the garbage right next to a picnic table of a similar height. Make sure the edge of your garbage can touches the edge of your table.
If you don’t have a picnic table you can use, then use another sturdy structure that’s the same height as your garbage and that raccoons can easily climb onto.
2-2. Fill the garbage can with 6 in (15 cm) of water.
Use your hose to put water into your garbage can. Keep it filled 6 in (15 cm) to keep the garbage can from falling over and so the raccoon can’t jump out once you’ve captured it.
This amount of water is enough to keep the garbage can from tipping over, but isn't enough to hurt or drown the raccoon.
The water will weight down the raccoon’s fur, making it difficult for them to jump out or knock the can over.
2-3. Lay a board so it extends halfway over the garbage can.
Set a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that’s 18 in (46 cm) long on your picnic table. Slide the board out so it extends halfway across the opening of the garbage can. When the raccoon steps on the board over the garbage can, the weight will shift and cause the raccoon to fall in.
3. Baiting and Catching Raccoons
3-1. Bait your trap.
Choose white food like marshmallows or eggs since they’re easier for nocturnal animals to see. Other baits that may work to catch raccoons include apples, fish, and dry fish cat food. If you’re using a box trap, place your bait inside against the back wall so the raccoon needs to walk completely inside. If you’re using a garbage can trap, place your bait on the end of the board over the garbage can.
You may also buy commercial raccoon bait from outdoor care stores or online.
Place your bait right before it gets dark so birds don’t eat it first.
3-2. Check your traps twice every day.
Look for raccoons in your trap in the morning and in the early evening. Since raccoons are nocturnal, most times they’ll enter your trap in the middle the night. When you see that the trap is set, take it out of your yard so you can release the raccoon somewhere else.
Change your bait every 2 days if it’s uneaten.
If you accidentally catch an animal besides a raccoon, you can choose to release it back in your yard or transport it somewhere else.
3-3. Release the raccoon in an area 3 mi (4.8 km) away.
Once you capture a raccoon, transport the animal to an unpopulated area at least 3 mi (4.8 km) away from where you captured it. When you let the raccoon go, point the trap away from you and lift the door so it can run out without coming near you.
If you use a garbage can trap, put a lid on the garbage can first before transporting it.
Wear gloves if you’re worried about getting bitten.
Warnings
Avoid using PVC hand-catch traps because they are inhumane to raccoons.
Make sure trapping is legal in your area before putting out your own traps.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:57",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Wooden Box Trap\\n1-1. Cut plywood to the dimensions of your box.\\nLook for ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood treated for outdoor use so it doesn’t develop mold or rot. Use a handsaw or circular saw to cut plywood to size for your box. Cut 1 piece that’s 12 in × 22 in (30 cm × 56 cm), 1 piece that’s 12 in × 12 in (30 cm × 30 cm), and 3 pieces that are 12 in × 24 in (30 cm × 61 cm).\\nThe 3 pieces that are 12 in × 24 in (30 cm × 61 cm) will be the bottom and the walls of your trap.\\nThe 12 in × 22 in (30 cm × 56 cm) piece will be the top of your trap with room so the trap door.\\nThe 12 in × 12 in (30 cm × 30 cm) will be the back piece.\\n1-2. Secure 2 pieces of wood to the bottom piece of the box to brace it.\\nLay one of your 12 in × 24 in (30 cm × 61 cm) boards on a flat surface and measure in ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the long sides. Mark the distance with a pencil and lay 2 wood pieces that are ⁄4 × ⁄4 × 22 in (1.9 × 1.9 × 55.9 cm) on the insides of your lines. Use 3 screws in each wood piece and an electric screwdriver to attach them to the bottom.\\nThe wooden pieces will act as braces to make your box trap stronger.\\nMake sure that one end of your wooden braces is flush with one of the short sides of the bottom. This way, your trap door will have room shut.\\n1-3. Cut metal panels to size with an angle grinder.\\nUse a metal-cutting blade on your angle grinder to easily cut through the metal panel. Cut 1 panel that’s 10 in × 11 in (25 cm × 28 cm) to use for your trap door and another panel that’s 9 in × 3 in (22.9 cm × 7.6 cm) for a trigger that will spring the trap.\\nAlways wear safety glasses when cutting through metal so you don’t get any shavings in your eyes.\\nIf the metal has sharp edges, use a grinding bit on your angle grinder to smooth it out so you don’t hurt the raccoon while it’s in the trap.\\n1-4. Drill holes ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) from a corner through each metal plate.\\nUse a ⁄8–⁄4 in (0.32–0.64 cm) drill bit meant for going through metal. Use a slow speed with firm pressure as you push the drill through your steel. Make a hole in one of the corners on each both of your metal plates so you can feed a wire through them to make a trigger for your trap.\\n1-5. Attach the 9 in × 3 in (22.9 cm × 7.6 cm) metal plate to the bottom with hinges.\\nScrew 1-2 sets of hinges onto the bottom of the smaller metal panel. Make sure the hole you drilled is on the upper left or right corner of the panel. Attach the hinges to the bottom of your box trap so it’s about 5 in (13 cm) from the back wall.\\nThe metal panel acts as a trigger to set and activate the trap once a raccoon steps on it.\\n1-6. Screw the side and top pieces onto your box trap.\\nUse the bottom braces as anchor points for your screws. Put in 3-4 screws per side with an electric screwdriver to attach the walls for your box trap. Once the walls are secure, put the top panel of wood on your box trap so it’s flush with the back wall.\\n1-7. Cut a 20 in (51 cm) PVC pipe in half along its length.\\nUse an angle grinder or a circular saw to make your cuts. Clamp the pipe so it doesn’t move around as you saw it. Start at one end of the pipe and cut it in half. When you’re finished, you should have two 20 in (51 cm) long halves.\\nThe PVC pipe makes it easier for the door to drop without getting stuck.\\n1-8. Screw the pipe halves to the walls and put the metal door between them.\\nPlace the pipe halves against at the front of your trap so the rounded edges touch the walls. Use 2-3 screws per pipe to attach it to the wall pieces. Slide the 10 in × 11 in (25 cm × 28 cm) metal panel between the PVC pipes to make a door. Make sure the corner where you drilled the hole is on the bottom of the door.\\nTest dropping your door down into the pipes to see if it catches on any of the screws. If it does, try to make them tighter and more flush with the inside of the pipe.\\n1-9. Connect an 8- to 10-gauge wire between the 2 metal plates.\\nLoop the wire through the hole in the 9 in × 3 in (22.9 cm × 7.6 cm) panel, and wrap it around itself so it holds firmly. Run the wire through the hole in the bottom of the door so it extends out by ⁄2 in (1.3 cm).\\nWire can be purchased from any hardware store.\\n2. Making a Garbage Can Trap\\n2-1. Set a garbage can next to a picnic table.\\nYou can use either a metal or plastic garbage can as long as it’s smooth on the inside. Place the garbage right next to a picnic table of a similar height. Make sure the edge of your garbage can touches the edge of your table.\\nIf you don’t have a picnic table you can use, then use another sturdy structure that’s the same height as your garbage and that raccoons can easily climb onto.\\n2-2. Fill the garbage can with 6 in (15 cm) of water.\\nUse your hose to put water into your garbage can. Keep it filled 6 in (15 cm) to keep the garbage can from falling over and so the raccoon can’t jump out once you’ve captured it.\\nThis amount of water is enough to keep the garbage can from tipping over, but isn't enough to hurt or drown the raccoon.\\nThe water will weight down the raccoon’s fur, making it difficult for them to jump out or knock the can over.\\n2-3. Lay a board so it extends halfway over the garbage can.\\nSet a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that’s 18 in (46 cm) long on your picnic table. Slide the board out so it extends halfway across the opening of the garbage can. When the raccoon steps on the board over the garbage can, the weight will shift and cause the raccoon to fall in.\\n3. Baiting and Catching Raccoons\\n3-1. Bait your trap.\\nChoose white food like marshmallows or eggs since they’re easier for nocturnal animals to see. Other baits that may work to catch raccoons include apples, fish, and dry fish cat food. If you’re using a box trap, place your bait inside against the back wall so the raccoon needs to walk completely inside. If you’re using a garbage can trap, place your bait on the end of the board over the garbage can.\\nYou may also buy commercial raccoon bait from outdoor care stores or online.\\nPlace your bait right before it gets dark so birds don’t eat it first.\\n3-2. Check your traps twice every day.\\nLook for raccoons in your trap in the morning and in the early evening. Since raccoons are nocturnal, most times they’ll enter your trap in the middle the night. When you see that the trap is set, take it out of your yard so you can release the raccoon somewhere else.\\nChange your bait every 2 days if it’s uneaten.\\nIf you accidentally catch an animal besides a raccoon, you can choose to release it back in your yard or transport it somewhere else.\\n3-3. Release the raccoon in an area 3 mi (4.8 km) away.\\nOnce you capture a raccoon, transport the animal to an unpopulated area at least 3 mi (4.8 km) away from where you captured it. When you let the raccoon go, point the trap away from you and lift the door so it can run out without coming near you.\\nIf you use a garbage can trap, put a lid on the garbage can first before transporting it.\\nWear gloves if you’re worried about getting bitten.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid using PVC hand-catch traps because they are inhumane to raccoons.\\nMake sure trapping is legal in your area before putting out your own traps.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"While raccoons may look cute, they can make a mess in your yard when they’re foraging for food at night and they may carry infectious diseases, such as rabies. If you notice that raccoons are in your area, setting traps is the easiest way to catch and relocate them to a different location. Building a live trap is relatively simple with a few tools and can be used repeatedly if your raccoon problem persists.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Wooden Box Trap\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut plywood to the dimensions of your box.\", \"描述\": \"Look for ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood treated for outdoor use so it doesn’t develop mold or rot. Use a handsaw or circular saw to cut plywood to size for your box. Cut 1 piece that’s 12 in × 22 in (30 cm × 56 cm), 1 piece that’s 12 in × 12 in (30 cm × 30 cm), and 3 pieces that are 12 in × 24 in (30 cm × 61 cm).\\nThe 3 pieces that are 12 in × 24 in (30 cm × 61 cm) will be the bottom and the walls of your trap.\\nThe 12 in × 22 in (30 cm × 56 cm) piece will be the top of your trap with room so the trap door.\\nThe 12 in × 12 in (30 cm × 30 cm) will be the back piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Secure 2 pieces of wood to the bottom piece of the box to brace it.\", \"描述\": \"Lay one of your 12 in × 24 in (30 cm × 61 cm) boards on a flat surface and measure in ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the long sides. Mark the distance with a pencil and lay 2 wood pieces that are ⁄4 × ⁄4 × 22 in (1.9 × 1.9 × 55.9 cm) on the insides of your lines. Use 3 screws in each wood piece and an electric screwdriver to attach them to the bottom.\\nThe wooden pieces will act as braces to make your box trap stronger.\\nMake sure that one end of your wooden braces is flush with one of the short sides of the bottom. This way, your trap door will have room shut.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut metal panels to size with an angle grinder.\", \"描述\": \"Use a metal-cutting blade on your angle grinder to easily cut through the metal panel. Cut 1 panel that’s 10 in × 11 in (25 cm × 28 cm) to use for your trap door and another panel that’s 9 in × 3 in (22.9 cm × 7.6 cm) for a trigger that will spring the trap.\\nAlways wear safety glasses when cutting through metal so you don’t get any shavings in your eyes.\\nIf the metal has sharp edges, use a grinding bit on your angle grinder to smooth it out so you don’t hurt the raccoon while it’s in the trap.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill holes ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) from a corner through each metal plate.\", \"描述\": \"Use a ⁄8–⁄4 in (0.32–0.64 cm) drill bit meant for going through metal. Use a slow speed with firm pressure as you push the drill through your steel. Make a hole in one of the corners on each both of your metal plates so you can feed a wire through them to make a trigger for your trap.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the 9 in × 3 in (22.9 cm × 7.6 cm) metal plate to the bottom with hinges.\", \"描述\": \"Screw 1-2 sets of hinges onto the bottom of the smaller metal panel. Make sure the hole you drilled is on the upper left or right corner of the panel. Attach the hinges to the bottom of your box trap so it’s about 5 in (13 cm) from the back wall.\\nThe metal panel acts as a trigger to set and activate the trap once a raccoon steps on it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Screw the side and top pieces onto your box trap.\", \"描述\": \"Use the bottom braces as anchor points for your screws. Put in 3-4 screws per side with an electric screwdriver to attach the walls for your box trap. Once the walls are secure, put the top panel of wood on your box trap so it’s flush with the back wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut a 20 in (51 cm) PVC pipe in half along its length.\", \"描述\": \"Use an angle grinder or a circular saw to make your cuts. Clamp the pipe so it doesn’t move around as you saw it. Start at one end of the pipe and cut it in half. When you’re finished, you should have two 20 in (51 cm) long halves.\\nThe PVC pipe makes it easier for the door to drop without getting stuck.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Screw the pipe halves to the walls and put the metal door between them.\", \"描述\": \"Place the pipe halves against at the front of your trap so the rounded edges touch the walls. Use 2-3 screws per pipe to attach it to the wall pieces. Slide the 10 in × 11 in (25 cm × 28 cm) metal panel between the PVC pipes to make a door. Make sure the corner where you drilled the hole is on the bottom of the door.\\nTest dropping your door down into the pipes to see if it catches on any of the screws. If it does, try to make them tighter and more flush with the inside of the pipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Connect an 8- to 10-gauge wire between the 2 metal plates.\", \"描述\": \"Loop the wire through the hole in the 9 in × 3 in (22.9 cm × 7.6 cm) panel, and wrap it around itself so it holds firmly. Run the wire through the hole in the bottom of the door so it extends out by ⁄2 in (1.3 cm).\\nWire can be purchased from any hardware store.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Garbage Can Trap\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set a garbage can next to a picnic table.\", \"描述\": \"You can use either a metal or plastic garbage can as long as it’s smooth on the inside. Place the garbage right next to a picnic table of a similar height. Make sure the edge of your garbage can touches the edge of your table.\\nIf you don’t have a picnic table you can use, then use another sturdy structure that’s the same height as your garbage and that raccoons can easily climb onto.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill the garbage can with 6 in (15 cm) of water.\", \"描述\": \"Use your hose to put water into your garbage can. Keep it filled 6 in (15 cm) to keep the garbage can from falling over and so the raccoon can’t jump out once you’ve captured it.\\nThis amount of water is enough to keep the garbage can from tipping over, but isn't enough to hurt or drown the raccoon.\\nThe water will weight down the raccoon’s fur, making it difficult for them to jump out or knock the can over.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay a board so it extends halfway over the garbage can.\", \"描述\": \"Set a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that’s 18 in (46 cm) long on your picnic table. Slide the board out so it extends halfway across the opening of the garbage can. When the raccoon steps on the board over the garbage can, the weight will shift and cause the raccoon to fall in.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Baiting and Catching Raccoons\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bait your trap.\", \"描述\": \"Choose white food like marshmallows or eggs since they’re easier for nocturnal animals to see. Other baits that may work to catch raccoons include apples, fish, and dry fish cat food. If you’re using a box trap, place your bait inside against the back wall so the raccoon needs to walk completely inside. If you’re using a garbage can trap, place your bait on the end of the board over the garbage can.\\nYou may also buy commercial raccoon bait from outdoor care stores or online.\\nPlace your bait right before it gets dark so birds don’t eat it first.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Check your traps twice every day.\", \"描述\": \"Look for raccoons in your trap in the morning and in the early evening. Since raccoons are nocturnal, most times they’ll enter your trap in the middle the night. When you see that the trap is set, take it out of your yard so you can release the raccoon somewhere else.\\nChange your bait every 2 days if it’s uneaten.\\nIf you accidentally catch an animal besides a raccoon, you can choose to release it back in your yard or transport it somewhere else.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Release the raccoon in an area 3 mi (4.8 km) away.\", \"描述\": \"Once you capture a raccoon, transport the animal to an unpopulated area at least 3 mi (4.8 km) away from where you captured it. When you let the raccoon go, point the trap away from you and lift the door so it can run out without coming near you.\\nIf you use a garbage can trap, put a lid on the garbage can first before transporting it.\\nWear gloves if you’re worried about getting bitten.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid using PVC hand-catch traps because they are inhumane to raccoons.\\n\", \"Make sure trapping is legal in your area before putting out your own traps.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,493 |
How to Build a Radiator Cover
|
1. Taking Measurements and Gathering Materials
1-1. Take the measurements of your radiator.
Measure the depth, width and height of the radiator, taking care to add a couple of inches or centimeters to the dimensions. The idea is to make the cover large enough to easily slide over the radiator.
For example, a radiator that is 10 inches (25cm) deep, 20 inches (50cm) tall, and 30 inches (76cm) wide, you might need 12 inches (30cm) clearance in depth, 22 inches (55cm) clearance in height, and 32 inches (81cm) clearance in width. This will give you a snug but still comfortable cover for your radiator.
1-2. Go to your local hardware supply store and select a material to use for your cover.
Lots of homeowners prefer the warm touch of wood over their radiator, but that doesn't need to be the case. Here are some options you might consider:
Fiberboard. Fiberboard, or MDF (medium density fiberboard) is a combination of sawdust and resins packed tightly together. It is inexpensive, takes paint well, and won't require miters that plywoods require. On the downside, it doesn't take wood stains especially well.
Veneered plywood. Veneered plywood is incredibly sturdy and beautiful unfinished, but also takes a wood stain really nicely. On the flip side, it is considerably more expensive than MDF, and probably requires some mitering on the edges of the plywood so that you don't see the center of the plywood core.
1-3. Find a sheet of grating to use in combination with your wood.
Because the heat from the radiator needs to escape the box cover, many covers have detailed sheet metal with small holes. Choose a piece of sheet metal, like a stamped aluminum sheet, with a detail that suits both the rest of the cover and the room in which the cover will be placed.
1-4. Get some cove molding for the grate.
Cove molding is relatively inexpensive and will go a long way in making your final piece look professional and impressive. If you don't have a miter saw (or a miter box and a handsaw) at home to cut the molding at a 45° angle with, be sure to get your molding cut before you leave the hardware supply store.
1-5. Finally, choose a piece of sheet metal that will direct heat back out into the room.
This piece of sheet metal can be galvanized steel, for example. You'll use it on the wall behind the cover to radiate heat back into the room and supercharge the efficiency of the radiator.
2. Cutting the Wood and the Moldings
2-1. Consider cutting the panels of your cover at the hardware supply store.
If you don't have a skill or circular saw, a jig, or a workspace that will make cutting your wood and sheet metal easy, an easy way of getting your materials cut is to have them processed wherever you buy them. Most hardware supply stores will cut your materials for free if you supply them with the dimensions.
2-2. Start cutting the two side panels.
Double-check your measurements, clamp your wood down to a workbench, and measure two points at the top and bottom of the panel to ensure a straight line. Place a template or jig across the line to ensure a straight cut. Clamp the jig down to the workbench and move your circular saw across the wood slowly.
If you're cutting from two smaller pieces of plywood or MDF and those pieces are identical, stack them on top of each other so that you only have to make one cut to produce both side panels.
2-3. Cut the front panel.
Again, add 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7 cm) of extra room for clearance. Clamp your template or jig down and measure a top and a bottom point to ensure a straight line. Start the saw and move it over the panel slowly to produce an even cut of wood.
2-4. Cut the top.
Using the same technique, plan on cutting the top ½ inch (1cm) wider than the sides and 1 (2.5cm) inch longer than the width of the front. This will give the top an elegant differentiation.
2-5. Decide how large you want your grate opening to be on the front panel.
Depending on how large your radiator is, draw straight lines that are between 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) away from the sides and top, and slightly more (4 to 6 inches) from the bottom. This will make the screen grating the centerpiece of the front panel.
If you wish to have grated openings on the side panels as well as the front panel, follow the exact same procedure.
2-6. Cut the rectangle from the middle of the front panel using a plunge cut.
Because the rectangle you want to cut out of the front panel is in the middle of the panel, you'll need to use this trick to preserve the outer framing. Place down your template to guide your circular saw along the straight line. Position the saw onto the template, with the saw's blade elevated in the air. Pull the guide up from the circular saw, turn the saw on, and slowly plunge the saw into the panel, making sure to leave a little bit of space on the corners. Slowly pull the circular saw along the line until you're about 1 (2.5cm) inch from the perpendicular line.
Do the exact same for the side panels if you choose to fit them with grating.
2-7. Finish off the corners using a simple handsaw.
Use a handsaw to extend each cut until it hits the corner. This will remove the center piece from the front panel.
2-8. Measure the rectangle in the front panel and cut your cove molding to fit in all four sides.
Cut two 45° inside miters in each piece of molding, so that the four pieces will form a mitered rectangle (reminiscent of a picture frame) when fitted into the front panel.
3. Assembling the Cover
3-1. Glue the moldings in place inside the front panel with yellow wood glue.
Secure the moldings in place with some headless pin nails.
3-2. Measure, cut, and fit the grate.
Place the metal grating on the inside of the front panel. Leaving at least 1 and ½ inch clearance on each side of the center rectangle, cut the grading using a straight edge and a level as a guide. After placing the rectangular grating over the inside of the front panel, secure in place with some staples.
3-3. Hold the front to the sides with a few pin nails and wood glue, and then drill and screw the three panels together.
Coarse thread drywall screws work especially well if you're using MDF for your panels.
3-4.
Finish by attaching the top panel to the remaining three pieces. Finishing nails and screws will hold the sections in place easily, helping to create a sturdy cover.<refhttps://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-build-radiator-cover-cabin</ref>
Add extra support to the back of the radiator cover by screwing a piece of 1x4 to the top back of each side.
3-5. Address the aesthetics of the radiator cover.
Painting or staining the panels will help the radiator cover to blend into the room with relative ease. The choice of color may be the wall color, which aids in making the radiator cover more or less blend into the wall, or picking up one of the secondary colors in the room can help make the cover look like another accessory.
For a more dramatic statement, consider painting stripes or other geometric designs on the cover to match patterns in the draperies, pillows or other elements within the room.
3-6. Seal the finish on the radiator cover.
Once the paint or stain is dry, use a clear lacquer or sealant to protect the finish of the piece. Allow the sealant to dry before moving the finished radiator cover into position. This will help minimize scratching and wear and tear on the cover from one year to the next, making it possible to get several years of use before needing to repaint the accessory.
Tips
To make the radiator cover more practical in the space, consider designing the cover so the top panel overlaps the side and front panels. This will create an appearance that is somewhat like an occasional table. Wood strips can be used to disguise the raw edges before painting, providing a more finished appearance.
If the idea is to leave the radiator cover in place all year round, consider using the skill saw to cut out a large section in the front panel and fill it with a heat resistant wire mesh. In addition, line the interior of the cover with a heat resistant material such as tin to protect the wood.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:57",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Taking Measurements and Gathering Materials\\n1-1. Take the measurements of your radiator.\\nMeasure the depth, width and height of the radiator, taking care to add a couple of inches or centimeters to the dimensions. The idea is to make the cover large enough to easily slide over the radiator.\\nFor example, a radiator that is 10 inches (25cm) deep, 20 inches (50cm) tall, and 30 inches (76cm) wide, you might need 12 inches (30cm) clearance in depth, 22 inches (55cm) clearance in height, and 32 inches (81cm) clearance in width. This will give you a snug but still comfortable cover for your radiator.\\n1-2. Go to your local hardware supply store and select a material to use for your cover.\\nLots of homeowners prefer the warm touch of wood over their radiator, but that doesn't need to be the case. Here are some options you might consider:\\nFiberboard. Fiberboard, or MDF (medium density fiberboard) is a combination of sawdust and resins packed tightly together. It is inexpensive, takes paint well, and won't require miters that plywoods require. On the downside, it doesn't take wood stains especially well.\\nVeneered plywood. Veneered plywood is incredibly sturdy and beautiful unfinished, but also takes a wood stain really nicely. On the flip side, it is considerably more expensive than MDF, and probably requires some mitering on the edges of the plywood so that you don't see the center of the plywood core.\\n1-3. Find a sheet of grating to use in combination with your wood.\\nBecause the heat from the radiator needs to escape the box cover, many covers have detailed sheet metal with small holes. Choose a piece of sheet metal, like a stamped aluminum sheet, with a detail that suits both the rest of the cover and the room in which the cover will be placed.\\n1-4. Get some cove molding for the grate.\\nCove molding is relatively inexpensive and will go a long way in making your final piece look professional and impressive. If you don't have a miter saw (or a miter box and a handsaw) at home to cut the molding at a 45° angle with, be sure to get your molding cut before you leave the hardware supply store.\\n1-5. Finally, choose a piece of sheet metal that will direct heat back out into the room.\\nThis piece of sheet metal can be galvanized steel, for example. You'll use it on the wall behind the cover to radiate heat back into the room and supercharge the efficiency of the radiator.\\n2. Cutting the Wood and the Moldings\\n2-1. Consider cutting the panels of your cover at the hardware supply store.\\nIf you don't have a skill or circular saw, a jig, or a workspace that will make cutting your wood and sheet metal easy, an easy way of getting your materials cut is to have them processed wherever you buy them. Most hardware supply stores will cut your materials for free if you supply them with the dimensions.\\n2-2. Start cutting the two side panels.\\nDouble-check your measurements, clamp your wood down to a workbench, and measure two points at the top and bottom of the panel to ensure a straight line. Place a template or jig across the line to ensure a straight cut. Clamp the jig down to the workbench and move your circular saw across the wood slowly.\\nIf you're cutting from two smaller pieces of plywood or MDF and those pieces are identical, stack them on top of each other so that you only have to make one cut to produce both side panels.\\n2-3. Cut the front panel.\\nAgain, add 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7 cm) of extra room for clearance. Clamp your template or jig down and measure a top and a bottom point to ensure a straight line. Start the saw and move it over the panel slowly to produce an even cut of wood.\\n2-4. Cut the top.\\nUsing the same technique, plan on cutting the top ½ inch (1cm) wider than the sides and 1 (2.5cm) inch longer than the width of the front. This will give the top an elegant differentiation.\\n2-5. Decide how large you want your grate opening to be on the front panel.\\nDepending on how large your radiator is, draw straight lines that are between 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) away from the sides and top, and slightly more (4 to 6 inches) from the bottom. This will make the screen grating the centerpiece of the front panel.\\nIf you wish to have grated openings on the side panels as well as the front panel, follow the exact same procedure.\\n2-6. Cut the rectangle from the middle of the front panel using a plunge cut.\\nBecause the rectangle you want to cut out of the front panel is in the middle of the panel, you'll need to use this trick to preserve the outer framing. Place down your template to guide your circular saw along the straight line. Position the saw onto the template, with the saw's blade elevated in the air. Pull the guide up from the circular saw, turn the saw on, and slowly plunge the saw into the panel, making sure to leave a little bit of space on the corners. Slowly pull the circular saw along the line until you're about 1 (2.5cm) inch from the perpendicular line.\\nDo the exact same for the side panels if you choose to fit them with grating.\\n2-7. Finish off the corners using a simple handsaw.\\nUse a handsaw to extend each cut until it hits the corner. This will remove the center piece from the front panel.\\n2-8. Measure the rectangle in the front panel and cut your cove molding to fit in all four sides.\\nCut two 45° inside miters in each piece of molding, so that the four pieces will form a mitered rectangle (reminiscent of a picture frame) when fitted into the front panel.\\n3. Assembling the Cover\\n3-1. Glue the moldings in place inside the front panel with yellow wood glue.\\nSecure the moldings in place with some headless pin nails.\\n3-2. Measure, cut, and fit the grate.\\nPlace the metal grating on the inside of the front panel. Leaving at least 1 and ½ inch clearance on each side of the center rectangle, cut the grading using a straight edge and a level as a guide. After placing the rectangular grating over the inside of the front panel, secure in place with some staples.\\n3-3. Hold the front to the sides with a few pin nails and wood glue, and then drill and screw the three panels together.\\nCoarse thread drywall screws work especially well if you're using MDF for your panels.\\n3-4. \\nFinish by attaching the top panel to the remaining three pieces. Finishing nails and screws will hold the sections in place easily, helping to create a sturdy cover.<refhttps://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-build-radiator-cover-cabin</ref>\\nAdd extra support to the back of the radiator cover by screwing a piece of 1x4 to the top back of each side.\\n3-5. Address the aesthetics of the radiator cover.\\nPainting or staining the panels will help the radiator cover to blend into the room with relative ease. The choice of color may be the wall color, which aids in making the radiator cover more or less blend into the wall, or picking up one of the secondary colors in the room can help make the cover look like another accessory.\\nFor a more dramatic statement, consider painting stripes or other geometric designs on the cover to match patterns in the draperies, pillows or other elements within the room.\\n3-6. Seal the finish on the radiator cover.\\nOnce the paint or stain is dry, use a clear lacquer or sealant to protect the finish of the piece. Allow the sealant to dry before moving the finished radiator cover into position. This will help minimize scratching and wear and tear on the cover from one year to the next, making it possible to get several years of use before needing to repaint the accessory.\\nTips\\nTo make the radiator cover more practical in the space, consider designing the cover so the top panel overlaps the side and front panels. This will create an appearance that is somewhat like an occasional table. Wood strips can be used to disguise the raw edges before painting, providing a more finished appearance.\\nIf the idea is to leave the radiator cover in place all year round, consider using the skill saw to cut out a large section in the front panel and fill it with a heat resistant wire mesh. In addition, line the interior of the cover with a heat resistant material such as tin to protect the wood.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"While radiators offer an excellent source of heat in the winter months, they can be an eyesore during the remainder of the year. While there are some different ways to hide your radiator from sight, one solution is to build a radiator cover. A radiator cover helps to disguise the device and make it easier to blend into the general decor of the space. Fortunately, creating a radiator covering can be accomplished with relatively little effort, even for someone who has limited carpentry skills.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Taking Measurements and Gathering Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take the measurements of your radiator.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the depth, width and height of the radiator, taking care to add a couple of inches or centimeters to the dimensions. The idea is to make the cover large enough to easily slide over the radiator.\\nFor example, a radiator that is 10 inches (25cm) deep, 20 inches (50cm) tall, and 30 inches (76cm) wide, you might need 12 inches (30cm) clearance in depth, 22 inches (55cm) clearance in height, and 32 inches (81cm) clearance in width. This will give you a snug but still comfortable cover for your radiator.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Go to your local hardware supply store and select a material to use for your cover.\", \"描述\": \"Lots of homeowners prefer the warm touch of wood over their radiator, but that doesn't need to be the case. Here are some options you might consider:\\nFiberboard. Fiberboard, or MDF (medium density fiberboard) is a combination of sawdust and resins packed tightly together. It is inexpensive, takes paint well, and won't require miters that plywoods require. On the downside, it doesn't take wood stains especially well.\\nVeneered plywood. Veneered plywood is incredibly sturdy and beautiful unfinished, but also takes a wood stain really nicely. On the flip side, it is considerably more expensive than MDF, and probably requires some mitering on the edges of the plywood so that you don't see the center of the plywood core.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find a sheet of grating to use in combination with your wood.\", \"描述\": \"Because the heat from the radiator needs to escape the box cover, many covers have detailed sheet metal with small holes. Choose a piece of sheet metal, like a stamped aluminum sheet, with a detail that suits both the rest of the cover and the room in which the cover will be placed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get some cove molding for the grate.\", \"描述\": \"Cove molding is relatively inexpensive and will go a long way in making your final piece look professional and impressive. If you don't have a miter saw (or a miter box and a handsaw) at home to cut the molding at a 45° angle with, be sure to get your molding cut before you leave the hardware supply store.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Finally, choose a piece of sheet metal that will direct heat back out into the room.\", \"描述\": \"This piece of sheet metal can be galvanized steel, for example. You'll use it on the wall behind the cover to radiate heat back into the room and supercharge the efficiency of the radiator.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cutting the Wood and the Moldings\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider cutting the panels of your cover at the hardware supply store.\", \"描述\": \"If you don't have a skill or circular saw, a jig, or a workspace that will make cutting your wood and sheet metal easy, an easy way of getting your materials cut is to have them processed wherever you buy them. Most hardware supply stores will cut your materials for free if you supply them with the dimensions.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start cutting the two side panels.\", \"描述\": \"Double-check your measurements, clamp your wood down to a workbench, and measure two points at the top and bottom of the panel to ensure a straight line. Place a template or jig across the line to ensure a straight cut. Clamp the jig down to the workbench and move your circular saw across the wood slowly.\\nIf you're cutting from two smaller pieces of plywood or MDF and those pieces are identical, stack them on top of each other so that you only have to make one cut to produce both side panels.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the front panel.\", \"描述\": \"Again, add 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7 cm) of extra room for clearance. Clamp your template or jig down and measure a top and a bottom point to ensure a straight line. Start the saw and move it over the panel slowly to produce an even cut of wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the top.\", \"描述\": \"Using the same technique, plan on cutting the top ½ inch (1cm) wider than the sides and 1 (2.5cm) inch longer than the width of the front. This will give the top an elegant differentiation.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Decide how large you want your grate opening to be on the front panel.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on how large your radiator is, draw straight lines that are between 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) away from the sides and top, and slightly more (4 to 6 inches) from the bottom. This will make the screen grating the centerpiece of the front panel.\\nIf you wish to have grated openings on the side panels as well as the front panel, follow the exact same procedure.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut the rectangle from the middle of the front panel using a plunge cut.\", \"描述\": \"Because the rectangle you want to cut out of the front panel is in the middle of the panel, you'll need to use this trick to preserve the outer framing. Place down your template to guide your circular saw along the straight line. Position the saw onto the template, with the saw's blade elevated in the air. Pull the guide up from the circular saw, turn the saw on, and slowly plunge the saw into the panel, making sure to leave a little bit of space on the corners. Slowly pull the circular saw along the line until you're about 1 (2.5cm) inch from the perpendicular line.\\nDo the exact same for the side panels if you choose to fit them with grating.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Finish off the corners using a simple handsaw.\", \"描述\": \"Use a handsaw to extend each cut until it hits the corner. This will remove the center piece from the front panel.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Measure the rectangle in the front panel and cut your cove molding to fit in all four sides.\", \"描述\": \"Cut two 45° inside miters in each piece of molding, so that the four pieces will form a mitered rectangle (reminiscent of a picture frame) when fitted into the front panel.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Cover\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Glue the moldings in place inside the front panel with yellow wood glue.\", \"描述\": \"Secure the moldings in place with some headless pin nails.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure, cut, and fit the grate.\", \"描述\": \"Place the metal grating on the inside of the front panel. Leaving at least 1 and ½ inch clearance on each side of the center rectangle, cut the grading using a straight edge and a level as a guide. After placing the rectangular grating over the inside of the front panel, secure in place with some staples.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hold the front to the sides with a few pin nails and wood glue, and then drill and screw the three panels together.\", \"描述\": \"Coarse thread drywall screws work especially well if you're using MDF for your panels.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"\", \"描述\": \"Finish by attaching the top panel to the remaining three pieces. Finishing nails and screws will hold the sections in place easily, helping to create a sturdy cover.<refhttps://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-build-radiator-cover-cabin</ref>\\nAdd extra support to the back of the radiator cover by screwing a piece of 1x4 to the top back of each side.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Address the aesthetics of the radiator cover.\", \"描述\": \"Painting or staining the panels will help the radiator cover to blend into the room with relative ease. The choice of color may be the wall color, which aids in making the radiator cover more or less blend into the wall, or picking up one of the secondary colors in the room can help make the cover look like another accessory.\\nFor a more dramatic statement, consider painting stripes or other geometric designs on the cover to match patterns in the draperies, pillows or other elements within the room.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Seal the finish on the radiator cover.\", \"描述\": \"Once the paint or stain is dry, use a clear lacquer or sealant to protect the finish of the piece. Allow the sealant to dry before moving the finished radiator cover into position. This will help minimize scratching and wear and tear on the cover from one year to the next, making it possible to get several years of use before needing to repaint the accessory.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"To make the radiator cover more practical in the space, consider designing the cover so the top panel overlaps the side and front panels. This will create an appearance that is somewhat like an occasional table. Wood strips can be used to disguise the raw edges before painting, providing a more finished appearance.\\n\", \"If the idea is to leave the radiator cover in place all year round, consider using the skill saw to cut out a large section in the front panel and fill it with a heat resistant wire mesh. In addition, line the interior of the cover with a heat resistant material such as tin to protect the wood.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,494 |
How to Build a Railroad Tie Retaining Wall
|
1. Steps
1-1. Bulldoze or dig a section of the dirt from the hill out to where you want to build a railroad tie retaining wall.
1-2. Level the ground along the entire stretch of hill (so the wall will sit flat) by packing it down evenly with your foot, shovel or a board.
Place a level on the surface of the ground to make sure it is level along the entire stretch where the first layer of railroad ties will be placed.
1-3. Measure the entire length and height of the retaining wall with a tape measure.
First measure the length from one end of where you want the wall to sit to the other. Next, measure up from the ground to determine how high you want the wall to be.
1-4. Lay the first set of railroad ties out along the prepared ground making sure the ends fit snugly together.
Cut any excess off one end of a railroad tie to fit your area if needed.
Make sure your ties are sitting flush on the ground by setting a level on them periodically throughout the length of the wall to check.
1-5. Drill holes about 1 foot (30.48 centimeters) apart through all of the base railroad ties.
The hole must be big enough to fit a piece of rebar through. The rebar should be at least 2 feet (60.96 centimeters) long.
1-6. Put a piece of rebar in each of the holes and hammer it into the ground until the rebar is flush with the top surface of your railroad tie base.
The rebar acts as your stabilization for the wall.
1-7. Start on the second layer once your first layer is in place and stabilized, set your second layer of railroad ties on the first making sure to stagger them like bricks so 2 meet in the middle of a railroad tie above and below it.
Use nails, L-brackets or rebar to secure each layer to the layer below before adding additional tie layers.Each layer will need to be cut individually so the ends of each tie meet at different spots to avoid 2 ends meeting at the same point as the ties above or below it.
1-8. Add support to each level by filling in between the back of the railroad ties and the ground with stones.
This will also help with drainage.
Tips
Starting your bottom layer with a slight tilt towards the ground behind it can also help prevent the wall from tipping over as the hill moves behind it over time.
Construction adhesive can be used between the layers of railroad ties as an alternative to nails, brackets or rebar.
Warnings
Most railroad ties, even those sold as "reclaimed" at home improvement centers, contain creosote. The EPA states that creosote is hazardous, and has no safe use in or around the home. Handling the ties is hazardous to humans, and creosote can leach from the ties for many, many years to harm animals and contaminate ground water and plants. Locate untreated ties (some manufacturers are switching to safer methods than creosote), or use ties that are known to be treated with materials that are safer than creosote.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:57",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Bulldoze or dig a section of the dirt from the hill out to where you want to build a railroad tie retaining wall.\\n\\n1-2. Level the ground along the entire stretch of hill (so the wall will sit flat) by packing it down evenly with your foot, shovel or a board.\\nPlace a level on the surface of the ground to make sure it is level along the entire stretch where the first layer of railroad ties will be placed.\\n1-3. Measure the entire length and height of the retaining wall with a tape measure.\\nFirst measure the length from one end of where you want the wall to sit to the other. Next, measure up from the ground to determine how high you want the wall to be.\\n1-4. Lay the first set of railroad ties out along the prepared ground making sure the ends fit snugly together.\\nCut any excess off one end of a railroad tie to fit your area if needed.\\nMake sure your ties are sitting flush on the ground by setting a level on them periodically throughout the length of the wall to check.\\n1-5. Drill holes about 1 foot (30.48 centimeters) apart through all of the base railroad ties.\\nThe hole must be big enough to fit a piece of rebar through. The rebar should be at least 2 feet (60.96 centimeters) long.\\n1-6. Put a piece of rebar in each of the holes and hammer it into the ground until the rebar is flush with the top surface of your railroad tie base.\\nThe rebar acts as your stabilization for the wall.\\n1-7. Start on the second layer once your first layer is in place and stabilized, set your second layer of railroad ties on the first making sure to stagger them like bricks so 2 meet in the middle of a railroad tie above and below it.\\nUse nails, L-brackets or rebar to secure each layer to the layer below before adding additional tie layers.Each layer will need to be cut individually so the ends of each tie meet at different spots to avoid 2 ends meeting at the same point as the ties above or below it.\\n1-8. Add support to each level by filling in between the back of the railroad ties and the ground with stones.\\nThis will also help with drainage.\\nTips\\nStarting your bottom layer with a slight tilt towards the ground behind it can also help prevent the wall from tipping over as the hill moves behind it over time.\\nConstruction adhesive can be used between the layers of railroad ties as an alternative to nails, brackets or rebar.\\nWarnings\\nMost railroad ties, even those sold as \\\"reclaimed\\\" at home improvement centers, contain creosote. The EPA states that creosote is hazardous, and has no safe use in or around the home. Handling the ties is hazardous to humans, and creosote can leach from the ties for many, many years to harm animals and contaminate ground water and plants. Locate untreated ties (some manufacturers are switching to safer methods than creosote), or use ties that are known to be treated with materials that are safer than creosote.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A large sloping backyard may look appealing, but once you start mowing this unusable side hill, you may consider the benefits of getting rid of it. Thus, the thought to build a railroad tie retaining wall comes in. Cutting a large part of a sloping yard out to make room for a livable, usable back yard is a possible solution with the addition of a retaining wall.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bulldoze or dig a section of the dirt from the hill out to where you want to build a railroad tie retaining wall.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Level the ground along the entire stretch of hill (so the wall will sit flat) by packing it down evenly with your foot, shovel or a board.\", \"描述\": \"Place a level on the surface of the ground to make sure it is level along the entire stretch where the first layer of railroad ties will be placed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure the entire length and height of the retaining wall with a tape measure.\", \"描述\": \"First measure the length from one end of where you want the wall to sit to the other. Next, measure up from the ground to determine how high you want the wall to be.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay the first set of railroad ties out along the prepared ground making sure the ends fit snugly together.\", \"描述\": \"Cut any excess off one end of a railroad tie to fit your area if needed.\\nMake sure your ties are sitting flush on the ground by setting a level on them periodically throughout the length of the wall to check.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill holes about 1 foot (30.48 centimeters) apart through all of the base railroad ties.\", \"描述\": \"The hole must be big enough to fit a piece of rebar through. The rebar should be at least 2 feet (60.96 centimeters) long.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Put a piece of rebar in each of the holes and hammer it into the ground until the rebar is flush with the top surface of your railroad tie base.\", \"描述\": \"The rebar acts as your stabilization for the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Start on the second layer once your first layer is in place and stabilized, set your second layer of railroad ties on the first making sure to stagger them like bricks so 2 meet in the middle of a railroad tie above and below it.\", \"描述\": \"Use nails, L-brackets or rebar to secure each layer to the layer below before adding additional tie layers.Each layer will need to be cut individually so the ends of each tie meet at different spots to avoid 2 ends meeting at the same point as the ties above or below it.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add support to each level by filling in between the back of the railroad ties and the ground with stones.\", \"描述\": \"This will also help with drainage.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Starting your bottom layer with a slight tilt towards the ground behind it can also help prevent the wall from tipping over as the hill moves behind it over time.\\n\", \"Construction adhesive can be used between the layers of railroad ties as an alternative to nails, brackets or rebar.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Most railroad ties, even those sold as \\\"reclaimed\\\" at home improvement centers, contain creosote. The EPA states that creosote is hazardous, and has no safe use in or around the home. Handling the ties is hazardous to humans, and creosote can leach from the ties for many, many years to harm animals and contaminate ground water and plants. Locate untreated ties (some manufacturers are switching to safer methods than creosote), or use ties that are known to be treated with materials that are safer than creosote.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,495 |
How to Build a Railway System on Minecraft
|
1. Crafting Components
1-1. Decide on how long you want your railway to be.
Your railway can be as long as you want it to be, but you'll need to know roughly how many blocks it will traverse so that you know how many rails to create.
Try walking from point A of your planned railway to point B. This will help you plan out your route as well as make you aware of any obstacles in your way.
1-2. Know the components of a railway.
There are four main items that you'll use to create your railway:
- The "train" section of your railway. This is how you will move from point A to point B.
- Basic rails on which your minecart will travel.
- Rails activated by redstone that will speed up your minecart (or keep it moving). Powered rails that don't have redstone powering them will slow (and eventually stop) your cart.
- The power source for each section of 14 powered rails. Not necessary for regular rails.
1-3. Gather the necessary resources.
To create a railway system, you'll need the following items:
- For each 16 rails that you want to make, you'll need six iron bars. You'll also need five iron bars to make a minecart. You can make iron by smelting iron ore in a furnace.
- For each 16 rails that you want to make, you'll need one stick. You'll also need one stick per lever and redstone torch. You can craft four sticks by adding two planks (one on top of the other) to the crafting table interface.
- Used to create powered rails. You'll need six gold bars for each stack of six powered rails that you want to make. You can make gold by smelting gold ore in a furnace.
- Mine redstone blocks with an iron pickaxe (or better).
- You'll need one cobblestone per lever.
1-4. Open your Crafting Table.
Face the Crafting Table and select it to open the crafting interface.
1-5. Craft your minecart.
Place an iron bar in the top-left, top-right, middle-left, center, and middle-right squares in the crafting table, then click or tab the minecart icon and click or tap your inventory to move it to your inventory.
1-6. Craft rails.
Place one iron bar in each of the squares in the far-left and far-right columns of the crafting interface, place one stick in the middle square of the crafting interface, and then move the rails to your inventory.
This will create one set of 16 rails, so feel free to multiply these ingredients by the number of sets you want to create.
On console editions, scroll over to the "Redstone and Transportation" tab, select the "Rails" option, and press or until you've created enough rails.
1-7. Craft powered rails.
You'll need significantly fewer powered rails than regular rails. Place one gold bar in each of the squares in the far-left and far-right columns of the crafting interface, place one stick in the middle square of the crafting interface, and place one redstone in the bottom-middle square. Move the resulting powered rails into your inventory.
This will create one set of 6 powered rails, so feel free to multiply these ingredients by the number of sets you want to create.
On console editions, scroll over to the "Redstone and Transportation" tab, select the "Rails" option, scroll down to the "Powered Rails" option, and press or until you've created enough rails.
1-8. Craft redstone torches.
Place an equal number of sticks and redstones in the bottom-middle and center squares of the crafting table respectively, then move the resulting torches to your inventory.
1-9. Craft levers.
Place an equal number of cobblestone blocks and sticks in the bottom-middle and center squares of the crafting table respectively, then move the resulting levers to your inventory. You're now ready to create your railway system.
2. Building the Railway
2-1. Equip your rails.
Select the rails in your equip bar at the bottom of the screen.
2-2. Place your rails.
Face the ground, then right-click, tap, or press the left trigger to place your rails.
You can run tracks up and down hills.
If you place a track at a 90-degree angle to the main track, it will automatically connect via a bend.
2-3. Add powered rails.
You don't need long sections of these, but you should place them intermittently throughout the railway system to keep your cart moving.
This especially applies if you want your cart to go up a hill.
2-4. Place redstone torches next to powered rails.
This will activate them permanently. If your powered rails aren't activated by redstone, they'll slow and eventually stop your minecart.
One redstone torch will power the closest 14 connected powered rails.
2-5. Place levers next to rails that you want to control.
A lever next to a powered rail will allow you to turn off or on the rail, which is useful if you want to make a stop at a specific point along the railway system.
2-6. Put a solid block at the beginning and end of your rail.
This will prevent your minecart from flying off of the rail or getting stuck.
If you don't do this, your minecart will derail at the end of the rail and you'll have to create a new one.
2-7. Place your minecart at the beginning of the rail.
Select the minecart in your equip bar, face the beginning of the rail, and right-click, tap, or press the left trigger.
2-8. Hop into your minecart.
Face your minecart and select it to jump in.
2-9. Face forward and press the "Forward" option.
The default "Forward" action is pressing W on a computer, tapping the upward-facing arrow on Minecraft PE, and moving the left analog stick up on console editions. Your minecart will immediately begin to move down the track.
You can reverse the minecart's direction by facing the other way and pressing the "Forward" option again.
Tips
You can dress up your railway as much as you like. Some common ways to make your railway more interesting include adding tunnels and bridges, creating actual "stations" with benches and so on, and decorating along the tracks.
If you opt for a realistic railway system in Minecraft, mods are a good option. Examples are Traincraft, Rails of War, and the most realistic, and Immersive Railroading.
Warnings
Creating a railway system can be incredibly time-consuming in Survival mode. Switch to Creative mode if you just want to focus on making the railway without worrying about gathering resources and crafting components.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:58",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Crafting Components\\n1-1. Decide on how long you want your railway to be.\\nYour railway can be as long as you want it to be, but you'll need to know roughly how many blocks it will traverse so that you know how many rails to create.\\nTry walking from point A of your planned railway to point B. This will help you plan out your route as well as make you aware of any obstacles in your way.\\n1-2. Know the components of a railway.\\nThere are four main items that you'll use to create your railway:\\n\\n - The \\\"train\\\" section of your railway. This is how you will move from point A to point B.\\n - Basic rails on which your minecart will travel.\\n - Rails activated by redstone that will speed up your minecart (or keep it moving). Powered rails that don't have redstone powering them will slow (and eventually stop) your cart.\\n - The power source for each section of 14 powered rails. Not necessary for regular rails.\\n1-3. Gather the necessary resources.\\nTo create a railway system, you'll need the following items:\\n\\n - For each 16 rails that you want to make, you'll need six iron bars. You'll also need five iron bars to make a minecart. You can make iron by smelting iron ore in a furnace.\\n - For each 16 rails that you want to make, you'll need one stick. You'll also need one stick per lever and redstone torch. You can craft four sticks by adding two planks (one on top of the other) to the crafting table interface.\\n - Used to create powered rails. You'll need six gold bars for each stack of six powered rails that you want to make. You can make gold by smelting gold ore in a furnace.\\n - Mine redstone blocks with an iron pickaxe (or better).\\n - You'll need one cobblestone per lever.\\n1-4. Open your Crafting Table.\\nFace the Crafting Table and select it to open the crafting interface.\\n1-5. Craft your minecart.\\nPlace an iron bar in the top-left, top-right, middle-left, center, and middle-right squares in the crafting table, then click or tab the minecart icon and click or tap your inventory to move it to your inventory.\\n1-6. Craft rails.\\nPlace one iron bar in each of the squares in the far-left and far-right columns of the crafting interface, place one stick in the middle square of the crafting interface, and then move the rails to your inventory.\\nThis will create one set of 16 rails, so feel free to multiply these ingredients by the number of sets you want to create.\\nOn console editions, scroll over to the \\\"Redstone and Transportation\\\" tab, select the \\\"Rails\\\" option, and press or until you've created enough rails.\\n1-7. Craft powered rails.\\nYou'll need significantly fewer powered rails than regular rails. Place one gold bar in each of the squares in the far-left and far-right columns of the crafting interface, place one stick in the middle square of the crafting interface, and place one redstone in the bottom-middle square. Move the resulting powered rails into your inventory.\\nThis will create one set of 6 powered rails, so feel free to multiply these ingredients by the number of sets you want to create.\\nOn console editions, scroll over to the \\\"Redstone and Transportation\\\" tab, select the \\\"Rails\\\" option, scroll down to the \\\"Powered Rails\\\" option, and press or until you've created enough rails.\\n1-8. Craft redstone torches.\\nPlace an equal number of sticks and redstones in the bottom-middle and center squares of the crafting table respectively, then move the resulting torches to your inventory.\\n1-9. Craft levers.\\nPlace an equal number of cobblestone blocks and sticks in the bottom-middle and center squares of the crafting table respectively, then move the resulting levers to your inventory. You're now ready to create your railway system.\\n2. Building the Railway\\n2-1. Equip your rails.\\nSelect the rails in your equip bar at the bottom of the screen.\\n2-2. Place your rails.\\nFace the ground, then right-click, tap, or press the left trigger to place your rails.\\nYou can run tracks up and down hills.\\nIf you place a track at a 90-degree angle to the main track, it will automatically connect via a bend.\\n2-3. Add powered rails.\\nYou don't need long sections of these, but you should place them intermittently throughout the railway system to keep your cart moving.\\nThis especially applies if you want your cart to go up a hill.\\n2-4. Place redstone torches next to powered rails.\\nThis will activate them permanently. If your powered rails aren't activated by redstone, they'll slow and eventually stop your minecart.\\nOne redstone torch will power the closest 14 connected powered rails.\\n2-5. Place levers next to rails that you want to control.\\nA lever next to a powered rail will allow you to turn off or on the rail, which is useful if you want to make a stop at a specific point along the railway system.\\n2-6. Put a solid block at the beginning and end of your rail.\\nThis will prevent your minecart from flying off of the rail or getting stuck.\\nIf you don't do this, your minecart will derail at the end of the rail and you'll have to create a new one.\\n2-7. Place your minecart at the beginning of the rail.\\nSelect the minecart in your equip bar, face the beginning of the rail, and right-click, tap, or press the left trigger.\\n2-8. Hop into your minecart.\\nFace your minecart and select it to jump in.\\n2-9. Face forward and press the \\\"Forward\\\" option.\\nThe default \\\"Forward\\\" action is pressing W on a computer, tapping the upward-facing arrow on Minecraft PE, and moving the left analog stick up on console editions. Your minecart will immediately begin to move down the track.\\nYou can reverse the minecart's direction by facing the other way and pressing the \\\"Forward\\\" option again.\\nTips\\nYou can dress up your railway as much as you like. Some common ways to make your railway more interesting include adding tunnels and bridges, creating actual \\\"stations\\\" with benches and so on, and decorating along the tracks.\\nIf you opt for a realistic railway system in Minecraft, mods are a good option. Examples are Traincraft, Rails of War, and the most realistic, and Immersive Railroading.\\nWarnings\\nCreating a railway system can be incredibly time-consuming in Survival mode. Switch to Creative mode if you just want to focus on making the railway without worrying about gathering resources and crafting components.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"As you progress through Minecraft, you'll start realizing that walking is not a very effective way to travel long distances. Sprinting could be a better choice, but that drains hunger bars. Therefore, making a railway system is the obvious choice. Generally, rail systems are simple to make, and they can be very effective ways to travel quickly through long distances.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Crafting Components\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide on how long you want your railway to be.\", \"描述\": \"Your railway can be as long as you want it to be, but you'll need to know roughly how many blocks it will traverse so that you know how many rails to create.\\nTry walking from point A of your planned railway to point B. This will help you plan out your route as well as make you aware of any obstacles in your way.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Know the components of a railway.\", \"描述\": \"There are four main items that you'll use to create your railway:\\n\\n - The \\\"train\\\" section of your railway. This is how you will move from point A to point B.\\n - Basic rails on which your minecart will travel.\\n - Rails activated by redstone that will speed up your minecart (or keep it moving). Powered rails that don't have redstone powering them will slow (and eventually stop) your cart.\\n - The power source for each section of 14 powered rails. Not necessary for regular rails.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather the necessary resources.\", \"描述\": \"To create a railway system, you'll need the following items:\\n\\n - For each 16 rails that you want to make, you'll need six iron bars. You'll also need five iron bars to make a minecart. You can make iron by smelting iron ore in a furnace.\\n - For each 16 rails that you want to make, you'll need one stick. You'll also need one stick per lever and redstone torch. You can craft four sticks by adding two planks (one on top of the other) to the crafting table interface.\\n - Used to create powered rails. You'll need six gold bars for each stack of six powered rails that you want to make. You can make gold by smelting gold ore in a furnace.\\n - Mine redstone blocks with an iron pickaxe (or better).\\n - You'll need one cobblestone per lever.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Open your Crafting Table.\", \"描述\": \"Face the Crafting Table and select it to open the crafting interface.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Craft your minecart.\", \"描述\": \"Place an iron bar in the top-left, top-right, middle-left, center, and middle-right squares in the crafting table, then click or tab the minecart icon and click or tap your inventory to move it to your inventory.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Craft rails.\", \"描述\": \"Place one iron bar in each of the squares in the far-left and far-right columns of the crafting interface, place one stick in the middle square of the crafting interface, and then move the rails to your inventory.\\nThis will create one set of 16 rails, so feel free to multiply these ingredients by the number of sets you want to create.\\nOn console editions, scroll over to the \\\"Redstone and Transportation\\\" tab, select the \\\"Rails\\\" option, and press or until you've created enough rails.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Craft powered rails.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need significantly fewer powered rails than regular rails. Place one gold bar in each of the squares in the far-left and far-right columns of the crafting interface, place one stick in the middle square of the crafting interface, and place one redstone in the bottom-middle square. Move the resulting powered rails into your inventory.\\nThis will create one set of 6 powered rails, so feel free to multiply these ingredients by the number of sets you want to create.\\nOn console editions, scroll over to the \\\"Redstone and Transportation\\\" tab, select the \\\"Rails\\\" option, scroll down to the \\\"Powered Rails\\\" option, and press or until you've created enough rails.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Craft redstone torches.\", \"描述\": \"Place an equal number of sticks and redstones in the bottom-middle and center squares of the crafting table respectively, then move the resulting torches to your inventory.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Craft levers.\", \"描述\": \"Place an equal number of cobblestone blocks and sticks in the bottom-middle and center squares of the crafting table respectively, then move the resulting levers to your inventory. You're now ready to create your railway system.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Railway\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Equip your rails.\", \"描述\": \"Select the rails in your equip bar at the bottom of the screen.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place your rails.\", \"描述\": \"Face the ground, then right-click, tap, or press the left trigger to place your rails.\\nYou can run tracks up and down hills.\\nIf you place a track at a 90-degree angle to the main track, it will automatically connect via a bend.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add powered rails.\", \"描述\": \"You don't need long sections of these, but you should place them intermittently throughout the railway system to keep your cart moving.\\nThis especially applies if you want your cart to go up a hill.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place redstone torches next to powered rails.\", \"描述\": \"This will activate them permanently. If your powered rails aren't activated by redstone, they'll slow and eventually stop your minecart.\\nOne redstone torch will power the closest 14 connected powered rails.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place levers next to rails that you want to control.\", \"描述\": \"A lever next to a powered rail will allow you to turn off or on the rail, which is useful if you want to make a stop at a specific point along the railway system.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Put a solid block at the beginning and end of your rail.\", \"描述\": \"This will prevent your minecart from flying off of the rail or getting stuck.\\nIf you don't do this, your minecart will derail at the end of the rail and you'll have to create a new one.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place your minecart at the beginning of the rail.\", \"描述\": \"Select the minecart in your equip bar, face the beginning of the rail, and right-click, tap, or press the left trigger.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Hop into your minecart.\", \"描述\": \"Face your minecart and select it to jump in.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Face forward and press the \\\"Forward\\\" option.\", \"描述\": \"The default \\\"Forward\\\" action is pressing W on a computer, tapping the upward-facing arrow on Minecraft PE, and moving the left analog stick up on console editions. Your minecart will immediately begin to move down the track.\\nYou can reverse the minecart's direction by facing the other way and pressing the \\\"Forward\\\" option again.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can dress up your railway as much as you like. Some common ways to make your railway more interesting include adding tunnels and bridges, creating actual \\\"stations\\\" with benches and so on, and decorating along the tracks.\\n\", \"If you opt for a realistic railway system in Minecraft, mods are a good option. Examples are Traincraft, Rails of War, and the most realistic, and Immersive Railroading.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Creating a railway system can be incredibly time-consuming in Survival mode. Switch to Creative mode if you just want to focus on making the railway without worrying about gathering resources and crafting components.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,496 |
How to Build a Rain Gauge
|
1. Creating a Rain Gauge With Built In Measurement
1-1. Cut the top off of the bottle.
Use a pair of scissors to carefully cut the top of the bottle off. Cut just beneath where the bottle begins to narrow. A plastic soda bottle works best. Be sure to remove the paper label completely.
Parental supervision may be necessary for younger children when cutting the bottle.
1-2. Place pebbles in the bottom.
Pour in the pebbles in the bottom of the bottle. Soda bottles are never flat. Pour in the pebbles to even out the bottom and to keep the gauge from tipping over if it’s windy or the downpour is extremely heavy.
1-3. Turn the top of the bottle into a funnel.
Remove the cap from the top of the bottle and turn it upside down. Place it upside down on the bottom part of the bottle so that the top is pointing downward. Secure the funnel in place by lining up the cut edges and taping the two halves together.
Make sure that the top half is firmly held in place, and that there aren't any gaps between the two pieces of your gauge.
1-4. Create your measuring line.
Cut a long piece of duct tape and place it on the side of the gauge so that it creates a straight vertical line from the bottom of the bottle to the top. Take a marker and a straightedge to draw a horizontal line just above the pebbles. This is the bottom of the gauge.
Use duct tape for it’s strong adhesive properties. Masking tape, or other forms of tape, may come loose when soaking wet.
1-5. Mark off half-centimeter or half-inch intervals.
Take a ruler and place it against the tape so that the 0 lines up with the bottom line you have marked off. Use a marker to mark off every half-centimeter or half-inch along the tape until you get to the top. Label the centimetres or inches from the top to the bottom. You want to be sure that your measurements will be easy to read throughout the duration of the experiment.
Every half interval does not need to be labeled. Label every other mark by beginning with the second mark as 1 inch or cm. The marks in-between each label are a half measurement. Make sure to wait until your marker dries on the tape before placing your gauge in the rain. Do not use washable markers or apply markings while in the rain. If you have to reapply new tape or new markings midway through the experiment, your results may be considered inaccurate.
You may use any unit of measurement your experiment calls for. You can mark off every quarter-inch, eighth-inch, or centimeter.
1-6. Place the gauge at an optimal location.
Set your gauge on a level surface. Make sure it isn’t obstructed by any branches or in the way of people walking by. Pour some water in the bottom until it reaches the 0 mark and then you’re ready to collect.
You may also use coloured jelly instead of water to give yourself a reference point of where to start measuring. Use jelly or oil rather than another liquid as those may dissolve and mix into the water, ruining your measurements. These bottles are not evenly shaped on the bottom so you must account for this by establishing your starting point.
Make sure that the gauge is in a protected area. You want to ensure that there’s no disturbance from wind, debris, or anything else that could block or prevent rain from entering, like a branch or powerline.
1-7. Pay attention to the weather.
Check the forecast for rain. Check your gauge exactly 24 hours later to see how high the water has risen. Now you know how much rain has fallen.
Check how closely your measurements compare to official ones by checking the news or online for the rainfall measurements of your area for the day.
1-8. Repeat your measurements.
You can continue measuring for 7 - 14 days or until your curiosity has stopped. If this is an experiment assigned by your teacher, make sure you follow every perimeter and take measurements until the experiment tells you to stop.
Try to take your measurements at roughly the same time so that you get a 24-hour reading. Then, dump the rain out between each measurement to start a new measurement for the next day.
2. Using a Measuring Cylinder
2-1. Get a plastic bottle.
Find an empty two litre plastic bottle from your recyclables. You can also buy a two litre bottle of soda from your local supermarket or corner store and empty it out. Make sure that it is completely empty and dry of its contents before using.
2-2. Cut
Cut a consistent diameter by carefully positioning masking tape a quarter of the way down around the bottle to create a horizontal line. Use sharp scissors to cut the bottle at the masking tape. You want the diameter to be consistent.
2-3. Invert the top of the bottle.
Remove the top of the bottle and invert it to fit upside down over the bottom of the bottle like a funnel. Use paperclips to hold the two halves snugly together. If there is a heavy downpour, you will need to make sure your rain gauge does not come apart.
2-4. Place your rain gauge.
Find an adequate location to collect rain. You don’t want to place the gauge close to a high traffic area where it could get knocked over. Avoid placing it near buildings or trees where a change in wind direction could prevent any rain from falling into the gauge.
Keep it upright by placing it in a bucket or container. You may also dig a hole for the gauge to stand about halfway in.
2-5. Measure your findings
Remove the gauge from its location at the prescribed time every day and take your measurement. Pour the collected rain into a measuring cylinder. Be careful not to spill any water.
For example, your measuring cylinder may be measuring in cm so if you have collected rain for one week and the water you pour in from your rain gauge reaches the 10 cm mark on your measuring cylinder, you can ascertain that roughly 10 cm of rain has fallen during the week.
Compare your daily measurements. Using a pen and paper, record your findings every day at the exact same time of day to give you an accurate comparison.
2-6. Account for an uneven bottle.
Most soda bottles are uneven at the bottom. Before you measure any rain, use a ruler to measure how much liquid fills the uneven bottom. Subtract this small amount from your final findings.
2-7. Analyze your results.
Compare the amount of rain you gather to the length of time it takes to reach this amount. For example, how many days will it take to rain 15 cm. You can also compare the rainfall from month to month, week to week, or day to day. You may even graph your results to see the changes as the season progresses into the next.
You may also compare your findings with the wind speed, wind direction, or air pressure. Be sure to always replace your gauge at the same location.
Tips
You may also want to put a small amount of cooking oil, baby oil, etc in the container before putting it in the rain. The oil keeps the water from evaporating, making your measurement more accurate.
Remember, if you put a millimeter of oil in the container, subtract a millimeter from your final measurement.
If you use a taller, thinner collecting vessel for the gauge itself, then you could calibrate it so that it can be read directly without need for the calculation every time you take a reading.
Warnings
Place in an open space where there are no overhanging plants, trees, hedges, buildings etc.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:58",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating a Rain Gauge With Built In Measurement\\n1-1. Cut the top off of the bottle.\\nUse a pair of scissors to carefully cut the top of the bottle off. Cut just beneath where the bottle begins to narrow. A plastic soda bottle works best. Be sure to remove the paper label completely.\\nParental supervision may be necessary for younger children when cutting the bottle.\\n1-2. Place pebbles in the bottom.\\nPour in the pebbles in the bottom of the bottle. Soda bottles are never flat. Pour in the pebbles to even out the bottom and to keep the gauge from tipping over if it’s windy or the downpour is extremely heavy.\\n1-3. Turn the top of the bottle into a funnel.\\nRemove the cap from the top of the bottle and turn it upside down. Place it upside down on the bottom part of the bottle so that the top is pointing downward. Secure the funnel in place by lining up the cut edges and taping the two halves together.\\nMake sure that the top half is firmly held in place, and that there aren't any gaps between the two pieces of your gauge.\\n1-4. Create your measuring line.\\nCut a long piece of duct tape and place it on the side of the gauge so that it creates a straight vertical line from the bottom of the bottle to the top. Take a marker and a straightedge to draw a horizontal line just above the pebbles. This is the bottom of the gauge.\\nUse duct tape for it’s strong adhesive properties. Masking tape, or other forms of tape, may come loose when soaking wet.\\n1-5. Mark off half-centimeter or half-inch intervals.\\nTake a ruler and place it against the tape so that the 0 lines up with the bottom line you have marked off. Use a marker to mark off every half-centimeter or half-inch along the tape until you get to the top. Label the centimetres or inches from the top to the bottom. You want to be sure that your measurements will be easy to read throughout the duration of the experiment.\\nEvery half interval does not need to be labeled. Label every other mark by beginning with the second mark as 1 inch or cm. The marks in-between each label are a half measurement. Make sure to wait until your marker dries on the tape before placing your gauge in the rain. Do not use washable markers or apply markings while in the rain. If you have to reapply new tape or new markings midway through the experiment, your results may be considered inaccurate.\\nYou may use any unit of measurement your experiment calls for. You can mark off every quarter-inch, eighth-inch, or centimeter.\\n1-6. Place the gauge at an optimal location.\\nSet your gauge on a level surface. Make sure it isn’t obstructed by any branches or in the way of people walking by. Pour some water in the bottom until it reaches the 0 mark and then you’re ready to collect.\\nYou may also use coloured jelly instead of water to give yourself a reference point of where to start measuring. Use jelly or oil rather than another liquid as those may dissolve and mix into the water, ruining your measurements. These bottles are not evenly shaped on the bottom so you must account for this by establishing your starting point.\\nMake sure that the gauge is in a protected area. You want to ensure that there’s no disturbance from wind, debris, or anything else that could block or prevent rain from entering, like a branch or powerline.\\n1-7. Pay attention to the weather.\\nCheck the forecast for rain. Check your gauge exactly 24 hours later to see how high the water has risen. Now you know how much rain has fallen.\\nCheck how closely your measurements compare to official ones by checking the news or online for the rainfall measurements of your area for the day.\\n1-8. Repeat your measurements.\\nYou can continue measuring for 7 - 14 days or until your curiosity has stopped. If this is an experiment assigned by your teacher, make sure you follow every perimeter and take measurements until the experiment tells you to stop.\\nTry to take your measurements at roughly the same time so that you get a 24-hour reading. Then, dump the rain out between each measurement to start a new measurement for the next day.\\n2. Using a Measuring Cylinder\\n2-1. Get a plastic bottle.\\nFind an empty two litre plastic bottle from your recyclables. You can also buy a two litre bottle of soda from your local supermarket or corner store and empty it out. Make sure that it is completely empty and dry of its contents before using.\\n2-2. Cut\\nCut a consistent diameter by carefully positioning masking tape a quarter of the way down around the bottle to create a horizontal line. Use sharp scissors to cut the bottle at the masking tape. You want the diameter to be consistent.\\n2-3. Invert the top of the bottle.\\nRemove the top of the bottle and invert it to fit upside down over the bottom of the bottle like a funnel. Use paperclips to hold the two halves snugly together. If there is a heavy downpour, you will need to make sure your rain gauge does not come apart.\\n2-4. Place your rain gauge.\\nFind an adequate location to collect rain. You don’t want to place the gauge close to a high traffic area where it could get knocked over. Avoid placing it near buildings or trees where a change in wind direction could prevent any rain from falling into the gauge.\\nKeep it upright by placing it in a bucket or container. You may also dig a hole for the gauge to stand about halfway in.\\n2-5. Measure your findings\\nRemove the gauge from its location at the prescribed time every day and take your measurement. Pour the collected rain into a measuring cylinder. Be careful not to spill any water.\\nFor example, your measuring cylinder may be measuring in cm so if you have collected rain for one week and the water you pour in from your rain gauge reaches the 10 cm mark on your measuring cylinder, you can ascertain that roughly 10 cm of rain has fallen during the week.\\nCompare your daily measurements. Using a pen and paper, record your findings every day at the exact same time of day to give you an accurate comparison.\\n2-6. Account for an uneven bottle.\\nMost soda bottles are uneven at the bottom. Before you measure any rain, use a ruler to measure how much liquid fills the uneven bottom. Subtract this small amount from your final findings.\\n2-7. Analyze your results.\\nCompare the amount of rain you gather to the length of time it takes to reach this amount. For example, how many days will it take to rain 15 cm. You can also compare the rainfall from month to month, week to week, or day to day. You may even graph your results to see the changes as the season progresses into the next.\\nYou may also compare your findings with the wind speed, wind direction, or air pressure. Be sure to always replace your gauge at the same location.\\nTips\\nYou may also want to put a small amount of cooking oil, baby oil, etc in the container before putting it in the rain. The oil keeps the water from evaporating, making your measurement more accurate.\\nRemember, if you put a millimeter of oil in the container, subtract a millimeter from your final measurement.\\nIf you use a taller, thinner collecting vessel for the gauge itself, then you could calibrate it so that it can be read directly without need for the calculation every time you take a reading.\\nWarnings\\nPlace in an open space where there are no overhanging plants, trees, hedges, buildings etc.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you'd like to keep track of how much rainfall you're getting, you can either buy a rain gauge or make one for yourself. You only need a few simple materials and a small amount of time. Use the gauge to compare the rainfall day to day, week to week, or even month to month.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating a Rain Gauge With Built In Measurement\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the top off of the bottle.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pair of scissors to carefully cut the top of the bottle off. Cut just beneath where the bottle begins to narrow. A plastic soda bottle works best. Be sure to remove the paper label completely.\\nParental supervision may be necessary for younger children when cutting the bottle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place pebbles in the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Pour in the pebbles in the bottom of the bottle. Soda bottles are never flat. Pour in the pebbles to even out the bottom and to keep the gauge from tipping over if it’s windy or the downpour is extremely heavy.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Turn the top of the bottle into a funnel.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the cap from the top of the bottle and turn it upside down. Place it upside down on the bottom part of the bottle so that the top is pointing downward. Secure the funnel in place by lining up the cut edges and taping the two halves together.\\nMake sure that the top half is firmly held in place, and that there aren't any gaps between the two pieces of your gauge.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create your measuring line.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a long piece of duct tape and place it on the side of the gauge so that it creates a straight vertical line from the bottom of the bottle to the top. Take a marker and a straightedge to draw a horizontal line just above the pebbles. This is the bottom of the gauge.\\nUse duct tape for it’s strong adhesive properties. Masking tape, or other forms of tape, may come loose when soaking wet.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mark off half-centimeter or half-inch intervals.\", \"描述\": \"Take a ruler and place it against the tape so that the 0 lines up with the bottom line you have marked off. Use a marker to mark off every half-centimeter or half-inch along the tape until you get to the top. Label the centimetres or inches from the top to the bottom. You want to be sure that your measurements will be easy to read throughout the duration of the experiment.\\nEvery half interval does not need to be labeled. Label every other mark by beginning with the second mark as 1 inch or cm. The marks in-between each label are a half measurement. Make sure to wait until your marker dries on the tape before placing your gauge in the rain. Do not use washable markers or apply markings while in the rain. If you have to reapply new tape or new markings midway through the experiment, your results may be considered inaccurate.\\nYou may use any unit of measurement your experiment calls for. You can mark off every quarter-inch, eighth-inch, or centimeter.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the gauge at an optimal location.\", \"描述\": \"Set your gauge on a level surface. Make sure it isn’t obstructed by any branches or in the way of people walking by. Pour some water in the bottom until it reaches the 0 mark and then you’re ready to collect.\\nYou may also use coloured jelly instead of water to give yourself a reference point of where to start measuring. Use jelly or oil rather than another liquid as those may dissolve and mix into the water, ruining your measurements. These bottles are not evenly shaped on the bottom so you must account for this by establishing your starting point.\\nMake sure that the gauge is in a protected area. You want to ensure that there’s no disturbance from wind, debris, or anything else that could block or prevent rain from entering, like a branch or powerline.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Pay attention to the weather.\", \"描述\": \"Check the forecast for rain. Check your gauge exactly 24 hours later to see how high the water has risen. Now you know how much rain has fallen.\\nCheck how closely your measurements compare to official ones by checking the news or online for the rainfall measurements of your area for the day.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Repeat your measurements.\", \"描述\": \"You can continue measuring for 7 - 14 days or until your curiosity has stopped. If this is an experiment assigned by your teacher, make sure you follow every perimeter and take measurements until the experiment tells you to stop.\\nTry to take your measurements at roughly the same time so that you get a 24-hour reading. Then, dump the rain out between each measurement to start a new measurement for the next day.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using a Measuring Cylinder\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a plastic bottle.\", \"描述\": \"Find an empty two litre plastic bottle from your recyclables. You can also buy a two litre bottle of soda from your local supermarket or corner store and empty it out. Make sure that it is completely empty and dry of its contents before using.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut\", \"描述\": \"Cut a consistent diameter by carefully positioning masking tape a quarter of the way down around the bottle to create a horizontal line. Use sharp scissors to cut the bottle at the masking tape. You want the diameter to be consistent.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Invert the top of the bottle.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the top of the bottle and invert it to fit upside down over the bottom of the bottle like a funnel. Use paperclips to hold the two halves snugly together. If there is a heavy downpour, you will need to make sure your rain gauge does not come apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place your rain gauge.\", \"描述\": \"Find an adequate location to collect rain. You don’t want to place the gauge close to a high traffic area where it could get knocked over. Avoid placing it near buildings or trees where a change in wind direction could prevent any rain from falling into the gauge.\\nKeep it upright by placing it in a bucket or container. You may also dig a hole for the gauge to stand about halfway in.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Measure your findings\", \"描述\": \"Remove the gauge from its location at the prescribed time every day and take your measurement. Pour the collected rain into a measuring cylinder. Be careful not to spill any water.\\nFor example, your measuring cylinder may be measuring in cm so if you have collected rain for one week and the water you pour in from your rain gauge reaches the 10 cm mark on your measuring cylinder, you can ascertain that roughly 10 cm of rain has fallen during the week.\\nCompare your daily measurements. Using a pen and paper, record your findings every day at the exact same time of day to give you an accurate comparison.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Account for an uneven bottle.\", \"描述\": \"Most soda bottles are uneven at the bottom. Before you measure any rain, use a ruler to measure how much liquid fills the uneven bottom. Subtract this small amount from your final findings.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Analyze your results.\", \"描述\": \"Compare the amount of rain you gather to the length of time it takes to reach this amount. For example, how many days will it take to rain 15 cm. You can also compare the rainfall from month to month, week to week, or day to day. You may even graph your results to see the changes as the season progresses into the next.\\nYou may also compare your findings with the wind speed, wind direction, or air pressure. Be sure to always replace your gauge at the same location.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You may also want to put a small amount of cooking oil, baby oil, etc in the container before putting it in the rain. The oil keeps the water from evaporating, making your measurement more accurate.\\n\", \"Remember, if you put a millimeter of oil in the container, subtract a millimeter from your final measurement.\\n\", \"If you use a taller, thinner collecting vessel for the gauge itself, then you could calibrate it so that it can be read directly without need for the calculation every time you take a reading.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Place in an open space where there are no overhanging plants, trees, hedges, buildings etc.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,497 |
How to Build a Rainwater Collection System
|
1. Getting Rain Barrel Supplies
1-1. Obtain one or more water storage barrels.
You can buy a water storage barrel online, but it's cheaper to get a used one from a company that uses large barrels to store food and other merchandise (just be sure to clean it thoroughly with soapy water). A rain barrel can also be made from a large plastic trash can. Get a barrel that will hold 30 to 55 gallons (113.6 to 208.2 L) of water.
If you decide to get a used barrel, make sure that it didn't formerly contain oil, pesticides, or any other type of toxic substance. It's too difficult to clean these chemicals from the inside of the barrel, so using them is too risky.
If you plan on collecting a lot of water, get two or three barrels. You'll be able to connect them so they're all part of the same water collection system, and this way you can have hundreds of gallons of water at your disposal.
1-2. Get additional supplies to turn the barrels into a water collection system.
The supplies you'll need to make your rainwater collection system can easily be picked up at a hardware or home and garden store. Figure out what you already have on hand, then gather the following supplies:
1 standard 1-inch hose spigot with ¾-in. pipe threads, so you can access water from your rain barrel.
1 ¾-inch x ¾-inch coupling
1 ¾-inch x ¾-inch bushing
1 ¾-inch pipe thread with a 1-inch hose adapter
1 ¾-inch lock nut
4 metal washers
1 roll Teflon thread tape
1 tube silicon caulk
1 “S”-shaped aluminum downspout elbow, to direct water from your downspout to your rain barrel
1 piece of aluminum window screen, to keep leaves, bugs and other materials out of your water
4-6 concrete blocks
2. Building a Rain Barrel Platform
2-1. Level an area right next to your downspout.
The downspout is the metal or plastic tube running from your roof's gutters to the ground. You're going to reroute the downspout directly into your rain barrel, so you'll need to prepare a platform in the area right next to it. Clear away any rocks and other debris from the area. If the ground there isn't flat, take a shovel and clear away enough dirt to flatten an area large enough to accommodate the number of barrels you have.
If your downspout empties out onto a concrete driveway or patio that's situated on a hill, build a level surface by stacking a few plywood boards in the low section so you've got a level area on which to set the barrels.
If you have more than one downspout on your home, choose to place the barrels near the one that's closest to your garden, so the water you collect won't have as far to travel when it's time to use it.
2-2. Create a layer of pea gravel.
This will provide better drainage around the rain barrels and help keep water away from the foundation of your home. Dig a 5-inch deep rectangle in the area you leveled to accommodate the rain barrels, and fill it with ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of pea gravel.
Skip this if your downspout empties onto a concrete driveway or patio.
2-3. Stack concrete blocks on top of the pea gravel.
Stack them sideways to create a raised platform for the rain barrel or barrels. The finished platform should be wide and long enough to hold all of your rain barrels level with each other, and steady enough that they won't tip over.
3. Adding the Spigot and Overflow Valve
3-1. Drill a spigot hole in the side of your barrel.
It should be high enough up on the barrel to fit a bucket or water jug underneath. Make a 3/4-inch hole to properly fit the spigot you bought.
This is the standard size for a spigot; if you're using a different sized-spigot, make sure you drill the right sized hole so that it fits into the side of the barrel.
3-2. Squeeze a circle of caulk around the hole.
Put caulk on both the inside and the outside of the barrel.
3-3. Attach the spigot.
Put the spigot and the coupling together. Use Teflon tape to wrap the threaded ends to create a tight seal and prevent leakage. Put a washer on the threaded end of the coupling and insert it through the hole in the barrel from the outside. Slip another washer over the pipe from the inside. Attach the bushing to hold the spigot in place.
Follow the directions for attaching the type of spigot you have. You may need to attach it differently than specified here.
3-4. Make an overflow valve.
Drill a second hole a few inches from the top of the barrel. It should be ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm), or the same size as the first hole you drilled. Squeeze a circle of caulk around the hole, both inside and outside the barrel. Slip a washer on the hose adapter and put it through the hole from the outside. Put another washer on the inside threads, attach some Teflon tape, and attach a nut to tighten the assembly. You can attach a garden hose directly to the valve.
If you have a second barrel to use as an overflow barrel, you'll need to drill a third hold in the first barrel. Drill it at the same level as the spigot several inches to the side. Then drill a ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm)-hole in the second barrel at the same level as the hole you just drilled in the first one. Attach hose adapters to the holes in both barrels as described above.
If you're using a third overflow barrel, the second barrel will need a second hole so you can connect it to the third barrel. Make a second valve on the opposite side of the barrel at the same level. Make a valve in the third barrel as well.
4. Assembling the Collection System
4-1. Connect the downspout elbow to the downspout.
Figure out where to connect it by setting the barrel on the platform next to the downspout. It should be close enough to the downspout that you can connect it with the downspout elbow. Mark the downspout one inch below the height of the rain barrel. You'll need to attach the downspout elbow to the downspout so water will pour directly into the barrel. Use a hacksaw to cut the downspout at the mark. Fit the elbow to the downspout. Fasten it in place with screws, and make sure they're tight.
As your measuring and fitting the elbow to the downspout, make sure that the end of the elbow will dip well into the barrel so all the water gets collected there. You don't want the water to be pouring into the barrel from above.
4-2. Connect the barrel to the elbow.
If the barrel has a lid, use the hacksaw to cut a hole large enough for the end of the elbow to fit inside. Cover the area around the hole with the metal screen.
4-3. Place a filter at the top of the downspout.
This will prevent leaves and other debris from running down the downspout and creating a clog in your rainwater collection system.
4-4. Connect the additional barrels.
If you have more barrels, set them on the platform and connect lengths of hose to the valves.
Tips
Check for free buckets and drums online at Craigslist, or ask at local hardware stores, car washes, stables, farms etc.
You can keep the debris out of your gutters with screen over the gutter or the commercially available gutter "louvers" which send the debris over the edge of the roof while allowing the water to enter the gutter.
This water is not suitable for human consumption straight from the spigot; however, it is the same water that was washing onto the lawn prior to the addition of the collection system. If you wish to make the water potable, boil the water vigorously for 1 to 3 minutes (depending on your altitude) to kill bacteria, parasites, and viruses. After cooling to room temperature, pour the boiled water into a filtered water pitcher (typical brand names are Brita, Culligan, and Pur) with a fresh filter. Depending on the pitcher, this will reduce most heavy metals, chemicals, and other contaminants to safe levels for temporary use. You may also choose to use a steam distiller to purify the water for drinking and cooking purposes. Steam distillation removes more impurities than filters.
Warnings
Water collected from some rooftops will also contain chemical components from the composition roofing.
Do not drink rainwater without treating it first (see above), but the water can be directly used to water plants, wash things, for bathrooms, etc.
Many parts of the earth receive 'acid rain.' The rainwater combines with sulfur compounds that come from burned coal and form sulfuric acid. This is a global phenomenon. The pH of the rainfall rises after the first five minutes of a downpour, and the molarity of the acidic water is fairly low.
Check the legality of doing this with your local city officials, as it is illegal in some areas to collect and hold any kind of water for re-use.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:58",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Rain Barrel Supplies\\n1-1. Obtain one or more water storage barrels.\\nYou can buy a water storage barrel online, but it's cheaper to get a used one from a company that uses large barrels to store food and other merchandise (just be sure to clean it thoroughly with soapy water). A rain barrel can also be made from a large plastic trash can. Get a barrel that will hold 30 to 55 gallons (113.6 to 208.2 L) of water.\\nIf you decide to get a used barrel, make sure that it didn't formerly contain oil, pesticides, or any other type of toxic substance. It's too difficult to clean these chemicals from the inside of the barrel, so using them is too risky.\\nIf you plan on collecting a lot of water, get two or three barrels. You'll be able to connect them so they're all part of the same water collection system, and this way you can have hundreds of gallons of water at your disposal.\\n1-2. Get additional supplies to turn the barrels into a water collection system.\\nThe supplies you'll need to make your rainwater collection system can easily be picked up at a hardware or home and garden store. Figure out what you already have on hand, then gather the following supplies:\\n1 standard 1-inch hose spigot with ¾-in. pipe threads, so you can access water from your rain barrel.\\n1 ¾-inch x ¾-inch coupling\\n1 ¾-inch x ¾-inch bushing\\n1 ¾-inch pipe thread with a 1-inch hose adapter\\n1 ¾-inch lock nut\\n4 metal washers\\n1 roll Teflon thread tape\\n1 tube silicon caulk\\n1 “S”-shaped aluminum downspout elbow, to direct water from your downspout to your rain barrel\\n1 piece of aluminum window screen, to keep leaves, bugs and other materials out of your water\\n4-6 concrete blocks\\n2. Building a Rain Barrel Platform\\n2-1. Level an area right next to your downspout.\\nThe downspout is the metal or plastic tube running from your roof's gutters to the ground. You're going to reroute the downspout directly into your rain barrel, so you'll need to prepare a platform in the area right next to it. Clear away any rocks and other debris from the area. If the ground there isn't flat, take a shovel and clear away enough dirt to flatten an area large enough to accommodate the number of barrels you have.\\nIf your downspout empties out onto a concrete driveway or patio that's situated on a hill, build a level surface by stacking a few plywood boards in the low section so you've got a level area on which to set the barrels.\\nIf you have more than one downspout on your home, choose to place the barrels near the one that's closest to your garden, so the water you collect won't have as far to travel when it's time to use it.\\n2-2. Create a layer of pea gravel.\\nThis will provide better drainage around the rain barrels and help keep water away from the foundation of your home. Dig a 5-inch deep rectangle in the area you leveled to accommodate the rain barrels, and fill it with ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of pea gravel.\\nSkip this if your downspout empties onto a concrete driveway or patio.\\n2-3. Stack concrete blocks on top of the pea gravel.\\nStack them sideways to create a raised platform for the rain barrel or barrels. The finished platform should be wide and long enough to hold all of your rain barrels level with each other, and steady enough that they won't tip over.\\n3. Adding the Spigot and Overflow Valve\\n3-1. Drill a spigot hole in the side of your barrel.\\nIt should be high enough up on the barrel to fit a bucket or water jug underneath. Make a 3/4-inch hole to properly fit the spigot you bought.\\nThis is the standard size for a spigot; if you're using a different sized-spigot, make sure you drill the right sized hole so that it fits into the side of the barrel.\\n3-2. Squeeze a circle of caulk around the hole.\\nPut caulk on both the inside and the outside of the barrel.\\n3-3. Attach the spigot.\\nPut the spigot and the coupling together. Use Teflon tape to wrap the threaded ends to create a tight seal and prevent leakage. Put a washer on the threaded end of the coupling and insert it through the hole in the barrel from the outside. Slip another washer over the pipe from the inside. Attach the bushing to hold the spigot in place.\\nFollow the directions for attaching the type of spigot you have. You may need to attach it differently than specified here.\\n3-4. Make an overflow valve.\\nDrill a second hole a few inches from the top of the barrel. It should be ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm), or the same size as the first hole you drilled. Squeeze a circle of caulk around the hole, both inside and outside the barrel. Slip a washer on the hose adapter and put it through the hole from the outside. Put another washer on the inside threads, attach some Teflon tape, and attach a nut to tighten the assembly. You can attach a garden hose directly to the valve.\\nIf you have a second barrel to use as an overflow barrel, you'll need to drill a third hold in the first barrel. Drill it at the same level as the spigot several inches to the side. Then drill a ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm)-hole in the second barrel at the same level as the hole you just drilled in the first one. Attach hose adapters to the holes in both barrels as described above.\\nIf you're using a third overflow barrel, the second barrel will need a second hole so you can connect it to the third barrel. Make a second valve on the opposite side of the barrel at the same level. Make a valve in the third barrel as well.\\n4. Assembling the Collection System\\n4-1. Connect the downspout elbow to the downspout.\\nFigure out where to connect it by setting the barrel on the platform next to the downspout. It should be close enough to the downspout that you can connect it with the downspout elbow. Mark the downspout one inch below the height of the rain barrel. You'll need to attach the downspout elbow to the downspout so water will pour directly into the barrel. Use a hacksaw to cut the downspout at the mark. Fit the elbow to the downspout. Fasten it in place with screws, and make sure they're tight.\\nAs your measuring and fitting the elbow to the downspout, make sure that the end of the elbow will dip well into the barrel so all the water gets collected there. You don't want the water to be pouring into the barrel from above.\\n4-2. Connect the barrel to the elbow.\\nIf the barrel has a lid, use the hacksaw to cut a hole large enough for the end of the elbow to fit inside. Cover the area around the hole with the metal screen.\\n4-3. Place a filter at the top of the downspout.\\nThis will prevent leaves and other debris from running down the downspout and creating a clog in your rainwater collection system.\\n4-4. Connect the additional barrels.\\nIf you have more barrels, set them on the platform and connect lengths of hose to the valves.\\nTips\\nCheck for free buckets and drums online at Craigslist, or ask at local hardware stores, car washes, stables, farms etc.\\nYou can keep the debris out of your gutters with screen over the gutter or the commercially available gutter \\\"louvers\\\" which send the debris over the edge of the roof while allowing the water to enter the gutter.\\nThis water is not suitable for human consumption straight from the spigot; however, it is the same water that was washing onto the lawn prior to the addition of the collection system. If you wish to make the water potable, boil the water vigorously for 1 to 3 minutes (depending on your altitude) to kill bacteria, parasites, and viruses. After cooling to room temperature, pour the boiled water into a filtered water pitcher (typical brand names are Brita, Culligan, and Pur) with a fresh filter. Depending on the pitcher, this will reduce most heavy metals, chemicals, and other contaminants to safe levels for temporary use. You may also choose to use a steam distiller to purify the water for drinking and cooking purposes. Steam distillation removes more impurities than filters.\\nWarnings\\nWater collected from some rooftops will also contain chemical components from the composition roofing.\\nDo not drink rainwater without treating it first (see above), but the water can be directly used to water plants, wash things, for bathrooms, etc.\\nMany parts of the earth receive 'acid rain.' The rainwater combines with sulfur compounds that come from burned coal and form sulfuric acid. This is a global phenomenon. The pH of the rainfall rises after the first five minutes of a downpour, and the molarity of the acidic water is fairly low.\\nCheck the legality of doing this with your local city officials, as it is illegal in some areas to collect and hold any kind of water for re-use.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Did you know the average roof collects 600 gallons (2,271.2 L) of water for every inch of rainfall? Don't let all that water go to waste! You can make a rainwater collection system for under a hundred dollars and store hundreds of gallons of water to use for your garden or other purposes. Read on to learn how to prepare your water storage unit and start collecting rainwater.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Rain Barrel Supplies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain one or more water storage barrels.\", \"描述\": \"You can buy a water storage barrel online, but it's cheaper to get a used one from a company that uses large barrels to store food and other merchandise (just be sure to clean it thoroughly with soapy water). A rain barrel can also be made from a large plastic trash can. Get a barrel that will hold 30 to 55 gallons (113.6 to 208.2 L) of water.\\nIf you decide to get a used barrel, make sure that it didn't formerly contain oil, pesticides, or any other type of toxic substance. It's too difficult to clean these chemicals from the inside of the barrel, so using them is too risky.\\nIf you plan on collecting a lot of water, get two or three barrels. You'll be able to connect them so they're all part of the same water collection system, and this way you can have hundreds of gallons of water at your disposal.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get additional supplies to turn the barrels into a water collection system.\", \"描述\": \"The supplies you'll need to make your rainwater collection system can easily be picked up at a hardware or home and garden store. Figure out what you already have on hand, then gather the following supplies:\\n1 standard 1-inch hose spigot with ¾-in. pipe threads, so you can access water from your rain barrel.\\n1 ¾-inch x ¾-inch coupling\\n1 ¾-inch x ¾-inch bushing\\n1 ¾-inch pipe thread with a 1-inch hose adapter\\n1 ¾-inch lock nut\\n4 metal washers\\n1 roll Teflon thread tape\\n1 tube silicon caulk\\n1 “S”-shaped aluminum downspout elbow, to direct water from your downspout to your rain barrel\\n1 piece of aluminum window screen, to keep leaves, bugs and other materials out of your water\\n4-6 concrete blocks\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Rain Barrel Platform\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Level an area right next to your downspout.\", \"描述\": \"The downspout is the metal or plastic tube running from your roof's gutters to the ground. You're going to reroute the downspout directly into your rain barrel, so you'll need to prepare a platform in the area right next to it. Clear away any rocks and other debris from the area. If the ground there isn't flat, take a shovel and clear away enough dirt to flatten an area large enough to accommodate the number of barrels you have.\\nIf your downspout empties out onto a concrete driveway or patio that's situated on a hill, build a level surface by stacking a few plywood boards in the low section so you've got a level area on which to set the barrels.\\nIf you have more than one downspout on your home, choose to place the barrels near the one that's closest to your garden, so the water you collect won't have as far to travel when it's time to use it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a layer of pea gravel.\", \"描述\": \"This will provide better drainage around the rain barrels and help keep water away from the foundation of your home. Dig a 5-inch deep rectangle in the area you leveled to accommodate the rain barrels, and fill it with ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of pea gravel.\\nSkip this if your downspout empties onto a concrete driveway or patio.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stack concrete blocks on top of the pea gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Stack them sideways to create a raised platform for the rain barrel or barrels. The finished platform should be wide and long enough to hold all of your rain barrels level with each other, and steady enough that they won't tip over.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding the Spigot and Overflow Valve\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drill a spigot hole in the side of your barrel.\", \"描述\": \"It should be high enough up on the barrel to fit a bucket or water jug underneath. Make a 3/4-inch hole to properly fit the spigot you bought.\\nThis is the standard size for a spigot; if you're using a different sized-spigot, make sure you drill the right sized hole so that it fits into the side of the barrel.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Squeeze a circle of caulk around the hole.\", \"描述\": \"Put caulk on both the inside and the outside of the barrel.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the spigot.\", \"描述\": \"Put the spigot and the coupling together. Use Teflon tape to wrap the threaded ends to create a tight seal and prevent leakage. Put a washer on the threaded end of the coupling and insert it through the hole in the barrel from the outside. Slip another washer over the pipe from the inside. Attach the bushing to hold the spigot in place.\\nFollow the directions for attaching the type of spigot you have. You may need to attach it differently than specified here.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make an overflow valve.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a second hole a few inches from the top of the barrel. It should be ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm), or the same size as the first hole you drilled. Squeeze a circle of caulk around the hole, both inside and outside the barrel. Slip a washer on the hose adapter and put it through the hole from the outside. Put another washer on the inside threads, attach some Teflon tape, and attach a nut to tighten the assembly. You can attach a garden hose directly to the valve.\\nIf you have a second barrel to use as an overflow barrel, you'll need to drill a third hold in the first barrel. Drill it at the same level as the spigot several inches to the side. Then drill a ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm)-hole in the second barrel at the same level as the hole you just drilled in the first one. Attach hose adapters to the holes in both barrels as described above.\\nIf you're using a third overflow barrel, the second barrel will need a second hole so you can connect it to the third barrel. Make a second valve on the opposite side of the barrel at the same level. Make a valve in the third barrel as well.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Collection System\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect the downspout elbow to the downspout.\", \"描述\": \"Figure out where to connect it by setting the barrel on the platform next to the downspout. It should be close enough to the downspout that you can connect it with the downspout elbow. Mark the downspout one inch below the height of the rain barrel. You'll need to attach the downspout elbow to the downspout so water will pour directly into the barrel. Use a hacksaw to cut the downspout at the mark. Fit the elbow to the downspout. Fasten it in place with screws, and make sure they're tight.\\nAs your measuring and fitting the elbow to the downspout, make sure that the end of the elbow will dip well into the barrel so all the water gets collected there. You don't want the water to be pouring into the barrel from above.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect the barrel to the elbow.\", \"描述\": \"If the barrel has a lid, use the hacksaw to cut a hole large enough for the end of the elbow to fit inside. Cover the area around the hole with the metal screen.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place a filter at the top of the downspout.\", \"描述\": \"This will prevent leaves and other debris from running down the downspout and creating a clog in your rainwater collection system.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the additional barrels.\", \"描述\": \"If you have more barrels, set them on the platform and connect lengths of hose to the valves.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Check for free buckets and drums online at Craigslist, or ask at local hardware stores, car washes, stables, farms etc.\\n\", \"You can keep the debris out of your gutters with screen over the gutter or the commercially available gutter \\\"louvers\\\" which send the debris over the edge of the roof while allowing the water to enter the gutter.\\n\", \"This water is not suitable for human consumption straight from the spigot; however, it is the same water that was washing onto the lawn prior to the addition of the collection system. If you wish to make the water potable, boil the water vigorously for 1 to 3 minutes (depending on your altitude) to kill bacteria, parasites, and viruses. After cooling to room temperature, pour the boiled water into a filtered water pitcher (typical brand names are Brita, Culligan, and Pur) with a fresh filter. Depending on the pitcher, this will reduce most heavy metals, chemicals, and other contaminants to safe levels for temporary use. You may also choose to use a steam distiller to purify the water for drinking and cooking purposes. Steam distillation removes more impurities than filters.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Water collected from some rooftops will also contain chemical components from the composition roofing.\\n\", \"Do not drink rainwater without treating it first (see above), but the water can be directly used to water plants, wash things, for bathrooms, etc.\\n\", \"Many parts of the earth receive 'acid rain.' The rainwater combines with sulfur compounds that come from burned coal and form sulfuric acid. This is a global phenomenon. The pH of the rainfall rises after the first five minutes of a downpour, and the molarity of the acidic water is fairly low.\\n\", \"Check the legality of doing this with your local city officials, as it is illegal in some areas to collect and hold any kind of water for re-use.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,498 |
How to Build a Raised Garden Bed with Legs
|
1. Constructing a Raised Garden Bed with Legs
1-1. Purchase cedar wood planks.
To construct a durable raised bed that is resistant to rot, use cedar wood planks. For this guide, purchase ten 8 ft. 1 in. by 4 in. cedar wood planks and four 8 ft. 2 in. by 4 in. cedar wood planks.
If you'd rather purchase cedar wood planks in person, visit a home improvement store like Lowe's or Home Depot.
1-2. Cut your cedar wood planks using a saw or other wood cutting tool.
First, cut the 8 ft. 1 in. by 4 in. cedar planks so that you have ten 4 ft. long side planks and ten 2 ft. short side planks. Then, cut four 30 in. legs from the four 8 ft. 2 in. by 4 in. planks.
If you don't have a saw or other cutting tool, ask for your cedar planks to be cut by a professional at a home improvement store.
After making these cuts, save the remaining cedar wood to use as your support pieces and bottom slats.
1-3. Secure the short sides to the legs.
First, drill 2 holes into each end of one of your 2 ft. planks (4 holes in total). Repeat the process so that all ten of your 2 ft. planks have 2 holes on each end. Then, attach five planks in an even row to one of the 30 in. legs with screws. After, attach the other side of these five planks to the opposite leg with screws. Repeat this step for the other five planks so that you have the two short sides of your garden box completed.
1-4. Fasten the long sides to the legs.
Drill 2 holes on each end of one of your ten 4 ft. long side planks (4 holes in total). Repeat the process for all ten of your 4 ft. long side planks. Then, attach five long side planks to the short side by screwing them in place on each end. Repeat the process for the opposite five planks so that your garden box officially has all of its sides securely in place.
To make sure the box is straight before securing the long side planks in place, use a speed square.
1-5. Attach support pieces along the bottom of the garden bed.
These will hold up the bottom slats of your garden bed. To construct the bottom support pieces, use your remaining 2 in. by 4 in. planks. Using wood glue, place these supports in an even line along the long and short sides of the garden box. Since your bottom slats will rest on the support pieces, place them right below where you would like the bottom of your garden bed to be.
1-6. Cut identical wooden slats to line the bottom of the box.
To construct the bottom of your garden box, measure the length between the two long sides of your garden box. Then, cut your remaining cedar plank scraps to that size.
1-7. Attach each slat to the supports along the bottom with a nail gun.
First, place the slats over the supports on the bottom of the box. Leave a slight gap between each slat so that the soil in your garden bed can drain. Then, attach either side of each slat to the supports underneath with a nail gun.
1-8. Stain
Staining or painting can add more personality to your garden bed. To paint or stain your garden bed, first sand down the surface with 120-grit sandpaper. Then, wipe down the surface with a clean cloth. If you're staining the wood, apply the stain and let it sit for 5-10 minutes (the longer you wait, the darker your stain will be). Then, wipe off the stain. If you're painting, apply a layer of paint, then wait for it to dry.
If you plan on eating the veggies in your garden, go for a non-toxic, water-based polyurethane stain. For paint, choose exterior acrylic paint to be extra safe.
After the stain or paint dries, consider adding a second coat.
2. Prepping the Garden Bed for Planting
2-1. Lay out landscape fabric over the bottom.
Landscape fabric is a perforated fabric that protects the wooden slats of your garden bed while also allowing the soil to drain. To make your raised garden bed last as long as possible, line the bottom of the box with the landscape fabric before adding your soil.
2-2. Place your garden bed in an even location with lots of sunlight.
Many vegetables and flowers need at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day (A.K.A. full sunlight). To ensure that your plants get all the sunlight they need, place your raised garden bed in an area with access to direct sunlight. To ensure that your garden bed is secure, place it on an even, level surface in your yard or on your porch.
2-3. Add 12–22 inches (30–56 cm) of good-quality soil.
In general, plants need about 12–22 inches (30–56 cm) of soil to thrive. If you're planting vegetables in your raised garden bed, fill your raised garden bed with 18–22 inches (46–56 cm) of soil. This will be plenty of soil to allow the roots to grow strong.
To give your plants all the nutrients they need, consider adding a layer of compost over the soil.
2-4. Plant the flowers, vegetables, and herbs of your choice.
Grow plants and vegetables like radishes, tomatoes, and leafy greens. If you're interested in planting flowers, try poppies, nasturtium, or marigolds. Though you can fit many varieties of vegetables, flowers, and herbs in your garden bed, leave some space in between each seed so that each has enough room to grow.
To ensure a thriving garden in the spring and summer, try planting after the last frost.
If you'd like to plant flowers in the fall or winter, try planting Hellebore.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:58",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing a Raised Garden Bed with Legs\\n1-1. Purchase cedar wood planks.\\nTo construct a durable raised bed that is resistant to rot, use cedar wood planks. For this guide, purchase ten 8 ft. 1 in. by 4 in. cedar wood planks and four 8 ft. 2 in. by 4 in. cedar wood planks.\\nIf you'd rather purchase cedar wood planks in person, visit a home improvement store like Lowe's or Home Depot.\\n1-2. Cut your cedar wood planks using a saw or other wood cutting tool.\\nFirst, cut the 8 ft. 1 in. by 4 in. cedar planks so that you have ten 4 ft. long side planks and ten 2 ft. short side planks. Then, cut four 30 in. legs from the four 8 ft. 2 in. by 4 in. planks.\\nIf you don't have a saw or other cutting tool, ask for your cedar planks to be cut by a professional at a home improvement store.\\nAfter making these cuts, save the remaining cedar wood to use as your support pieces and bottom slats.\\n1-3. Secure the short sides to the legs.\\nFirst, drill 2 holes into each end of one of your 2 ft. planks (4 holes in total). Repeat the process so that all ten of your 2 ft. planks have 2 holes on each end. Then, attach five planks in an even row to one of the 30 in. legs with screws. After, attach the other side of these five planks to the opposite leg with screws. Repeat this step for the other five planks so that you have the two short sides of your garden box completed.\\n1-4. Fasten the long sides to the legs.\\nDrill 2 holes on each end of one of your ten 4 ft. long side planks (4 holes in total). Repeat the process for all ten of your 4 ft. long side planks. Then, attach five long side planks to the short side by screwing them in place on each end. Repeat the process for the opposite five planks so that your garden box officially has all of its sides securely in place.\\nTo make sure the box is straight before securing the long side planks in place, use a speed square.\\n1-5. Attach support pieces along the bottom of the garden bed.\\nThese will hold up the bottom slats of your garden bed. To construct the bottom support pieces, use your remaining 2 in. by 4 in. planks. Using wood glue, place these supports in an even line along the long and short sides of the garden box. Since your bottom slats will rest on the support pieces, place them right below where you would like the bottom of your garden bed to be.\\n1-6. Cut identical wooden slats to line the bottom of the box.\\nTo construct the bottom of your garden box, measure the length between the two long sides of your garden box. Then, cut your remaining cedar plank scraps to that size.\\n1-7. Attach each slat to the supports along the bottom with a nail gun.\\nFirst, place the slats over the supports on the bottom of the box. Leave a slight gap between each slat so that the soil in your garden bed can drain. Then, attach either side of each slat to the supports underneath with a nail gun.\\n1-8. Stain\\nStaining or painting can add more personality to your garden bed. To paint or stain your garden bed, first sand down the surface with 120-grit sandpaper. Then, wipe down the surface with a clean cloth. If you're staining the wood, apply the stain and let it sit for 5-10 minutes (the longer you wait, the darker your stain will be). Then, wipe off the stain. If you're painting, apply a layer of paint, then wait for it to dry.\\nIf you plan on eating the veggies in your garden, go for a non-toxic, water-based polyurethane stain. For paint, choose exterior acrylic paint to be extra safe.\\nAfter the stain or paint dries, consider adding a second coat.\\n2. Prepping the Garden Bed for Planting\\n2-1. Lay out landscape fabric over the bottom.\\nLandscape fabric is a perforated fabric that protects the wooden slats of your garden bed while also allowing the soil to drain. To make your raised garden bed last as long as possible, line the bottom of the box with the landscape fabric before adding your soil.\\n2-2. Place your garden bed in an even location with lots of sunlight.\\nMany vegetables and flowers need at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day (A.K.A. full sunlight). To ensure that your plants get all the sunlight they need, place your raised garden bed in an area with access to direct sunlight. To ensure that your garden bed is secure, place it on an even, level surface in your yard or on your porch.\\n2-3. Add 12–22 inches (30–56 cm) of good-quality soil.\\nIn general, plants need about 12–22 inches (30–56 cm) of soil to thrive. If you're planting vegetables in your raised garden bed, fill your raised garden bed with 18–22 inches (46–56 cm) of soil. This will be plenty of soil to allow the roots to grow strong.\\nTo give your plants all the nutrients they need, consider adding a layer of compost over the soil.\\n2-4. Plant the flowers, vegetables, and herbs of your choice.\\nGrow plants and vegetables like radishes, tomatoes, and leafy greens. If you're interested in planting flowers, try poppies, nasturtium, or marigolds. Though you can fit many varieties of vegetables, flowers, and herbs in your garden bed, leave some space in between each seed so that each has enough room to grow.\\nTo ensure a thriving garden in the spring and summer, try planting after the last frost.\\nIf you'd like to plant flowers in the fall or winter, try planting Hellebore.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a raised garden bed with legs allows you to protect your garden from animals and weeds, and it can even make gardening a little easier since you don't have to stoop down to reach the plants. Making a raised garden bed with legs is a simple DIY project you can do on your own. Keep reading to learn everything you need to know about building a raised garden bed with legs, including how to prepare the bed for a thriving garden.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing a Raised Garden Bed with Legs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase cedar wood planks.\", \"描述\": \"To construct a durable raised bed that is resistant to rot, use cedar wood planks. For this guide, purchase ten 8 ft. 1 in. by 4 in. cedar wood planks and four 8 ft. 2 in. by 4 in. cedar wood planks.\\nIf you'd rather purchase cedar wood planks in person, visit a home improvement store like Lowe's or Home Depot.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your cedar wood planks using a saw or other wood cutting tool.\", \"描述\": \"First, cut the 8 ft. 1 in. by 4 in. cedar planks so that you have ten 4 ft. long side planks and ten 2 ft. short side planks. Then, cut four 30 in. legs from the four 8 ft. 2 in. by 4 in. planks.\\nIf you don't have a saw or other cutting tool, ask for your cedar planks to be cut by a professional at a home improvement store.\\nAfter making these cuts, save the remaining cedar wood to use as your support pieces and bottom slats.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Secure the short sides to the legs.\", \"描述\": \"First, drill 2 holes into each end of one of your 2 ft. planks (4 holes in total). Repeat the process so that all ten of your 2 ft. planks have 2 holes on each end. Then, attach five planks in an even row to one of the 30 in. legs with screws. After, attach the other side of these five planks to the opposite leg with screws. Repeat this step for the other five planks so that you have the two short sides of your garden box completed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fasten the long sides to the legs.\", \"描述\": \"Drill 2 holes on each end of one of your ten 4 ft. long side planks (4 holes in total). Repeat the process for all ten of your 4 ft. long side planks. Then, attach five long side planks to the short side by screwing them in place on each end. Repeat the process for the opposite five planks so that your garden box officially has all of its sides securely in place.\\nTo make sure the box is straight before securing the long side planks in place, use a speed square.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach support pieces along the bottom of the garden bed.\", \"描述\": \"These will hold up the bottom slats of your garden bed. To construct the bottom support pieces, use your remaining 2 in. by 4 in. planks. Using wood glue, place these supports in an even line along the long and short sides of the garden box. Since your bottom slats will rest on the support pieces, place them right below where you would like the bottom of your garden bed to be.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut identical wooden slats to line the bottom of the box.\", \"描述\": \"To construct the bottom of your garden box, measure the length between the two long sides of your garden box. Then, cut your remaining cedar plank scraps to that size.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach each slat to the supports along the bottom with a nail gun.\", \"描述\": \"First, place the slats over the supports on the bottom of the box. Leave a slight gap between each slat so that the soil in your garden bed can drain. Then, attach either side of each slat to the supports underneath with a nail gun.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Stain\", \"描述\": \"Staining or painting can add more personality to your garden bed. To paint or stain your garden bed, first sand down the surface with 120-grit sandpaper. Then, wipe down the surface with a clean cloth. If you're staining the wood, apply the stain and let it sit for 5-10 minutes (the longer you wait, the darker your stain will be). Then, wipe off the stain. If you're painting, apply a layer of paint, then wait for it to dry.\\nIf you plan on eating the veggies in your garden, go for a non-toxic, water-based polyurethane stain. For paint, choose exterior acrylic paint to be extra safe.\\nAfter the stain or paint dries, consider adding a second coat.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepping the Garden Bed for Planting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out landscape fabric over the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Landscape fabric is a perforated fabric that protects the wooden slats of your garden bed while also allowing the soil to drain. To make your raised garden bed last as long as possible, line the bottom of the box with the landscape fabric before adding your soil.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place your garden bed in an even location with lots of sunlight.\", \"描述\": \"Many vegetables and flowers need at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day (A.K.A. full sunlight). To ensure that your plants get all the sunlight they need, place your raised garden bed in an area with access to direct sunlight. To ensure that your garden bed is secure, place it on an even, level surface in your yard or on your porch.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add 12–22 inches (30–56 cm) of good-quality soil.\", \"描述\": \"In general, plants need about 12–22 inches (30–56 cm) of soil to thrive. If you're planting vegetables in your raised garden bed, fill your raised garden bed with 18–22 inches (46–56 cm) of soil. This will be plenty of soil to allow the roots to grow strong.\\nTo give your plants all the nutrients they need, consider adding a layer of compost over the soil.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Plant the flowers, vegetables, and herbs of your choice.\", \"描述\": \"Grow plants and vegetables like radishes, tomatoes, and leafy greens. If you're interested in planting flowers, try poppies, nasturtium, or marigolds. Though you can fit many varieties of vegetables, flowers, and herbs in your garden bed, leave some space in between each seed so that each has enough room to grow.\\nTo ensure a thriving garden in the spring and summer, try planting after the last frost.\\nIf you'd like to plant flowers in the fall or winter, try planting Hellebore.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,499 |
How to Build a Ranch Style Fence
|
1. Planning the Fence Layout
1-1. Call the city’s zoning department to find the property lines and fence laws.
Reach out to your local government’s zoning department and tell them that you want to build a fence. Give the department the address of your property so they can tell you where the edges of your property line are. They will also let you know if there are any rules for your fence, such as the maximum post height allowed.
Take notes while you’re on the phone so you don’t forget any of the regulations you need to follow.
Most fences don’t require a building permit, but ask the zoning department if you need one.
1-2. Have utility services mark underground lines on your property.
Contact your local water, gas, and electric companies at least 3 days before you want to dig so they have time to visit your property. Tell the companies that you plan on digging on your property and give them your address. Within the next 2–3 days, workers from the utility companies will come to your property and paint lines on the ground where there are pipes or wires underground.
If you live in the United States, you can call 811 to reach your utility companies.
1-3. Sketch the layout for your fence on your property survey.
A property survey is a detailed blueprint of your entire property and is usually with the closing paperwork for your home. Make a copy of the property survey and draw the layout for your fence on it with a pencil and straightedge. Draw the fence design proportionate to the rest of the property survey so you can see how long it will be and how many materials you need.
If you don’t have a copy of your property survey, talk to the attorney or realtor that closed the sale of your home.
If you aren’t able to make a copy of your property survey, place a piece of tracing paper over it before you start drawing.
2. Staking the Fence’s Perimeter
2-1. Drive stakes into your yard for the corners and end posts of the fence.
Look at the plan for your design and locate where your fence has 90-degree corners or comes to an end. Push a wooden stake into the ground so it’s 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) past where you want the center of the post. Extend a measuring tape from the stake to the nearest corner or end post and push in the next stake. Continue around the perimeter of the fence design placing stakes.
You can buy wooden stakes from a home improvement store.
Don’t place the stakes where you want the centers of the posts since they will be in the way later on.
2-2. Tie mason string between the stakes so it’s 6 in (15 cm) high.
Loop a piece of mason string, which is a long spool of thick cord, around the stake so it’s 6 inches (15 cm) off the ground and secure it with a knot. Pull the string tight and extend it to the nearest stake marking a corner or end post. Cut the piece of string so you have 3 inches (7.6 cm) of excess and tie it tightly around the second stake. Continue tying new pieces of string between the stakes so it’s taut.
You can buy mason string from your local hardware or home improvement store.
If you don’t have mason string, you can also use twine instead.
Keeping the string 6 inches (15 cm) off the ground will help you measure your posts to ensure they are the same height.
2-3. Check if the corners where the strings intersect are square.
Measure 3 feet (0.91 m) down the string from a corner stake and mark the location with a piece of tape. Then measure 4 feet (1.2 m) down the piece of string perpendicular to the first one and place a piece of tape on it. Extend your tape measure between the pieces of tape to see if it measures 5 feet (1.5 m). If it doesn’t, move the corner stake over by ⁄2–1 inch (1.3–2.5 cm) before checking the measurement again.
The distance between the pieces of tape should be 5 feet (1.5 m) since the corner and the pieces of tape form a right triangle, which you can easily calculate the side lengths using the Pythagorean theorem. The theorem states a + b = c, where c is the longest side opposite of the corner.
If the sides a and b are 3 and 4 feet (0.91 and 1.22 m), then the equation would be (3) + (4) = c.
Simplify the equation to 9 + 16 = c.
Take the square root of each side to get √(9 + 16) = √c.
Simplify the equation to √25 = c. This means that c should equal 5 feet (1.5 m).
2-4. Stake the post locations every 6–8 ft (1.8–2.4 m) along the string.
Start from one of the stakes marking an end post or corner, and extend your measuring tape to 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m). Push a wooden stake into the ground so it’s about 2 inches (5.1 cm) on the outside from the string. Continue working around the perimeter of the string and adding new stakes for each of the fence posts.
Don’t put the stake against or underneath the string since it will get in the way later on.
Avoid following the slope of the ground when you measure the post distance since you may get inaccurate measurements. Keep the measuring tape horizontal while you’re working.
3. Digging the Post Holes
3-1. Buy outdoor-treated posts and boards for your fence.
Avoid getting lumber that hasn’t been treated for outdoor use since it’s more likely to rot or deteriorate. Use 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) fence posts that are around 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m) long depending on the height for your fence. Choose 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) or 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards that are 8 feet (2.4 m) long to span horizontally between your posts.
If you can’t afford all of the materials for your fence, buy enough to work on a 8–16 ft (2.4–4.9 m) section at a time.
Divide the perimeter of the fence by 8 feet (240 cm) and multiply by 3 or 4 to find the total length of boards you need for the rails. For example, if the perimeter of your fence is 100 feet (30 m), then 100/8 = 12.5, which means you need 13 boards for 1 rail. To make a fence with 3 or 4 rails, you would need 39 or 52 boards respectively.
3-2. Use a post hole digger to make holes that are 30 in (76 cm) deep.
Post hole diggers have 2 shovel blades that clamp around a section of soil so you can pull it out of the ground. Push the end of the post hole diggers into the ground where you want the center of your post. Pull the handles apart to grip the soil and pull the diggers straight out of the ground. Cut each hole so it’s at least 30 inches (76 cm) deep and 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter.
You can buy post hole diggers from your local hardware or outdoor supply store.
If you want to finish the job quicker, check your local hardware store for earth auger rentals, which drill through the soil and excavate it quicker. Keep the auger perfectly vertical while you drill into the ground.
3-3. Fill the bottoms of the holes with 4 in (10 cm) of gravel.
Gravel prevents water from collecting at the bottoms of the fence posts so they don’t develop rot. Pour the gravel directly into the hole or use a shovel to scoop it into the hole. Spread the gravel evenly in the hole so it forms a sturdy surface for the post.
You can buy gravel from your local hardware store.
If you have slow-draining soil or soil with a lot of clay, use 6 inches (15 cm) of gravel instead to improve drainage.
4. Setting the Posts
4-1. Tamp the surface of the gravel flat with the end of a fence post.
Guide the narrow end of the fence post into the hole and carefully lower it onto the gravel. Pick the fence post up 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) and repeatedly tap the surface of the gravel. Work your way around the hole as you tamp t to flatten the gravel and provide a level surface for the fence post.
You can also use a tamper to compact the gravel if you have one.
4-2. Set a post in the center of a hole so it’s level.
Guide the post so it sits in the middle of the hole and so the edge is parallel to the string. Secure a post level, which checks the vertical and horizontal levels at the same time, to the top of the fence post and check the reading. Move the top of the post to adjust the level and hold the post in place once it sits perfectly in the hole.
You can buy post levels from your local hardware store.
You may use a standard level if you want, but you’ll need to reposition it check the horizontal and vertical levels each time.
Work on 1 fence post at a time so it’s easier to support and brace.
4-3. Brace the post with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to keep it vertical.
Place the end of a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board against the ground and lean it at a 45-degree angle toward the post. Pound 2 nails that are 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) long through the board and into the post. Place another board on the opposite side of the post so it doesn’t shift anymore.
If your fence post is on a slope, brace the post on the lowest side so it doesn’t tip over or lean.
4-4. Fill around the hole with quick-setting concrete.
Quick-setting concrete starts drying within 30–40 minutes so your fence posts are less likely to move or shift. Slowly pour the concrete mix directly into the hole until there’s 3 inches (7.6 cm) of space between it and the ground surface. Then add 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water for each 50 pounds (23 kg) bag of concrete you used. Pour the water slowly so it soaks into the concrete powder and starts setting.
Buy quick-setting concrete from your local hardware store.
To fill a hole that’s 30 inches (76 cm) deep and 12 inches (30 cm) wide, you usually need 4–5 bags that are 50 pounds (23 kg), but it will depend on the instructions on the label.
4-5. Let the concrete cure for 4 hours before removing the braces.
While the concrete will start hardening within 30 minutes, it takes more time for it to cure through to the middle. After the concrete cures, use the back of a claw hammer pry out the nails holding the braces against the posts.
Start setting other posts while the concrete dries so you don’t lose any time while you’re working.
5. Installing the Rail Boards
5-1. Mark 6 in (15 cm) up from the bottom of each post.
Start your measuring tape on the ground and extend it 6 inches (15 cm) up the side of the post. Draw a horizontal line on the post so you know where to place the bottom edge of the lowest rail board. Mark the rest of the posts the same way so you have guide lines.
Leaving 6 in (15 cm) of space prevents the wood from developing rot. It also allows livestock to graze underneath the fence without getting their legs or hooves caught.
Avoid leaving more than 12 inches (30 cm) between the bottom rail and the ground if you plan on keeping animals enclosed in the fence.
5-2. Drill 3 pilot holes 1 in (2.5 cm) in from the ends of the boards.
Start measuring from the short sides of your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) or 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards. Use a drill bit that’s ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) narrower than the diameters of the screws you’re using. Place the first and second holes so they’re ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) in from the long edges. Position the third hole so it’s in line with the other 2 holes.
If you don’t drill pilot holes, you risk splitting the wood and ruining the piece of your fence.
5-3. Screw a board between 2 posts so they’re just above the marks.
Ask a helper to support one end of the board while you secure the other end to the first post. Position the end of the board so it’s in the center of the post and the bottom edge lines up with the marks you made. Make sure the board is parallel to the ground before driving 4 in (10 cm) weather-resistant screws into the holes with a drill. Tighten the screws on 1 end of the board before attaching the other end to the second post.
If you don’t have a helper, prop the other end of the board up by 6 inches (15 cm) so you don’t screw it in at an angle.
Don’t cover the entire thickness of the post with the end of the board, or else you won’t have room to install the rails extending from the other side.
5-4. Add more boards so there’s 12 in (30 cm) between them vertically.
Measure up from the top of the first board you attached between the posts so there’s 12 inches (30 cm) of space and mark it with your pencil. Hold the next rail board against the posts so they line up with your marks and screw them into the posts. Continue screwing boards up the posts until you reach the top.
Avoid leaving more than 12 inches (30 cm) of space between boards if you plan on keeping livestock since animals will be able to fit their heads through the gaps and reach items outside of the fence.
Usually, you will have enough space for 3 or 4 rails on your posts.
5-5. Continue adding the rails to the rest of the fence posts.
Position additional rail boards so the seams are flush on the posts. Make sure the top and bottom edges of each board stay in line with the ones next to it so your fence has a clean appearance. Work your way around the perimeter of the fence so each post has 6–8 boards screwed into it, depending on how many rails you have.
If the ground slopes between the fence posts, cut angled miters into the ends of the boards so they still fit flush together.
5-6. Cover the rail seams with vertical 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards.
Stand 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards on their narrow ends and hold them tightly against the ends of the rail boards. Drive 2 nails that are 4 inches (10 cm) long through the board into each of the rail pieces to hold them securely in place. Repeat the process on the rest of the fence posts so the rails don’t come loose.
You don’t need to add 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards if you don’t want to, but rails may be more likely to break or warp.
Tips
If you can’t afford all of the supplies to buy them all at once, buy and build your fence in small sections at a time.
Warnings
Wear work gloves while handling the boards and posts to prevent getting splinters.
Always double-check if the posts to see if they’re while you’re building so you don’t place them incorrectly.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:58",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning the Fence Layout\\n1-1. Call the city’s zoning department to find the property lines and fence laws.\\nReach out to your local government’s zoning department and tell them that you want to build a fence. Give the department the address of your property so they can tell you where the edges of your property line are. They will also let you know if there are any rules for your fence, such as the maximum post height allowed.\\nTake notes while you’re on the phone so you don’t forget any of the regulations you need to follow.\\nMost fences don’t require a building permit, but ask the zoning department if you need one.\\n1-2. Have utility services mark underground lines on your property.\\nContact your local water, gas, and electric companies at least 3 days before you want to dig so they have time to visit your property. Tell the companies that you plan on digging on your property and give them your address. Within the next 2–3 days, workers from the utility companies will come to your property and paint lines on the ground where there are pipes or wires underground.\\nIf you live in the United States, you can call 811 to reach your utility companies.\\n1-3. Sketch the layout for your fence on your property survey.\\nA property survey is a detailed blueprint of your entire property and is usually with the closing paperwork for your home. Make a copy of the property survey and draw the layout for your fence on it with a pencil and straightedge. Draw the fence design proportionate to the rest of the property survey so you can see how long it will be and how many materials you need.\\nIf you don’t have a copy of your property survey, talk to the attorney or realtor that closed the sale of your home.\\nIf you aren’t able to make a copy of your property survey, place a piece of tracing paper over it before you start drawing.\\n2. Staking the Fence’s Perimeter\\n2-1. Drive stakes into your yard for the corners and end posts of the fence.\\nLook at the plan for your design and locate where your fence has 90-degree corners or comes to an end. Push a wooden stake into the ground so it’s 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) past where you want the center of the post. Extend a measuring tape from the stake to the nearest corner or end post and push in the next stake. Continue around the perimeter of the fence design placing stakes.\\nYou can buy wooden stakes from a home improvement store.\\nDon’t place the stakes where you want the centers of the posts since they will be in the way later on.\\n2-2. Tie mason string between the stakes so it’s 6 in (15 cm) high.\\nLoop a piece of mason string, which is a long spool of thick cord, around the stake so it’s 6 inches (15 cm) off the ground and secure it with a knot. Pull the string tight and extend it to the nearest stake marking a corner or end post. Cut the piece of string so you have 3 inches (7.6 cm) of excess and tie it tightly around the second stake. Continue tying new pieces of string between the stakes so it’s taut.\\nYou can buy mason string from your local hardware or home improvement store.\\nIf you don’t have mason string, you can also use twine instead.\\nKeeping the string 6 inches (15 cm) off the ground will help you measure your posts to ensure they are the same height.\\n2-3. Check if the corners where the strings intersect are square.\\nMeasure 3 feet (0.91 m) down the string from a corner stake and mark the location with a piece of tape. Then measure 4 feet (1.2 m) down the piece of string perpendicular to the first one and place a piece of tape on it. Extend your tape measure between the pieces of tape to see if it measures 5 feet (1.5 m). If it doesn’t, move the corner stake over by ⁄2–1 inch (1.3–2.5 cm) before checking the measurement again.\\nThe distance between the pieces of tape should be 5 feet (1.5 m) since the corner and the pieces of tape form a right triangle, which you can easily calculate the side lengths using the Pythagorean theorem. The theorem states a + b = c, where c is the longest side opposite of the corner.\\nIf the sides a and b are 3 and 4 feet (0.91 and 1.22 m), then the equation would be (3) + (4) = c.\\nSimplify the equation to 9 + 16 = c.\\nTake the square root of each side to get √(9 + 16) = √c.\\nSimplify the equation to √25 = c. This means that c should equal 5 feet (1.5 m).\\n2-4. Stake the post locations every 6–8 ft (1.8–2.4 m) along the string.\\nStart from one of the stakes marking an end post or corner, and extend your measuring tape to 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m). Push a wooden stake into the ground so it’s about 2 inches (5.1 cm) on the outside from the string. Continue working around the perimeter of the string and adding new stakes for each of the fence posts.\\nDon’t put the stake against or underneath the string since it will get in the way later on.\\nAvoid following the slope of the ground when you measure the post distance since you may get inaccurate measurements. Keep the measuring tape horizontal while you’re working.\\n3. Digging the Post Holes\\n3-1. Buy outdoor-treated posts and boards for your fence.\\nAvoid getting lumber that hasn’t been treated for outdoor use since it’s more likely to rot or deteriorate. Use 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) fence posts that are around 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m) long depending on the height for your fence. Choose 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) or 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards that are 8 feet (2.4 m) long to span horizontally between your posts.\\nIf you can’t afford all of the materials for your fence, buy enough to work on a 8–16 ft (2.4–4.9 m) section at a time.\\nDivide the perimeter of the fence by 8 feet (240 cm) and multiply by 3 or 4 to find the total length of boards you need for the rails. For example, if the perimeter of your fence is 100 feet (30 m), then 100/8 = 12.5, which means you need 13 boards for 1 rail. To make a fence with 3 or 4 rails, you would need 39 or 52 boards respectively.\\n3-2. Use a post hole digger to make holes that are 30 in (76 cm) deep.\\nPost hole diggers have 2 shovel blades that clamp around a section of soil so you can pull it out of the ground. Push the end of the post hole diggers into the ground where you want the center of your post. Pull the handles apart to grip the soil and pull the diggers straight out of the ground. Cut each hole so it’s at least 30 inches (76 cm) deep and 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter.\\nYou can buy post hole diggers from your local hardware or outdoor supply store.\\nIf you want to finish the job quicker, check your local hardware store for earth auger rentals, which drill through the soil and excavate it quicker. Keep the auger perfectly vertical while you drill into the ground.\\n3-3. Fill the bottoms of the holes with 4 in (10 cm) of gravel.\\nGravel prevents water from collecting at the bottoms of the fence posts so they don’t develop rot. Pour the gravel directly into the hole or use a shovel to scoop it into the hole. Spread the gravel evenly in the hole so it forms a sturdy surface for the post.\\nYou can buy gravel from your local hardware store.\\nIf you have slow-draining soil or soil with a lot of clay, use 6 inches (15 cm) of gravel instead to improve drainage.\\n4. Setting the Posts\\n4-1. Tamp the surface of the gravel flat with the end of a fence post.\\nGuide the narrow end of the fence post into the hole and carefully lower it onto the gravel. Pick the fence post up 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) and repeatedly tap the surface of the gravel. Work your way around the hole as you tamp t to flatten the gravel and provide a level surface for the fence post.\\nYou can also use a tamper to compact the gravel if you have one.\\n4-2. Set a post in the center of a hole so it’s level.\\nGuide the post so it sits in the middle of the hole and so the edge is parallel to the string. Secure a post level, which checks the vertical and horizontal levels at the same time, to the top of the fence post and check the reading. Move the top of the post to adjust the level and hold the post in place once it sits perfectly in the hole.\\nYou can buy post levels from your local hardware store.\\nYou may use a standard level if you want, but you’ll need to reposition it check the horizontal and vertical levels each time.\\nWork on 1 fence post at a time so it’s easier to support and brace.\\n4-3. Brace the post with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to keep it vertical.\\nPlace the end of a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board against the ground and lean it at a 45-degree angle toward the post. Pound 2 nails that are 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) long through the board and into the post. Place another board on the opposite side of the post so it doesn’t shift anymore.\\nIf your fence post is on a slope, brace the post on the lowest side so it doesn’t tip over or lean.\\n4-4. Fill around the hole with quick-setting concrete.\\nQuick-setting concrete starts drying within 30–40 minutes so your fence posts are less likely to move or shift. Slowly pour the concrete mix directly into the hole until there’s 3 inches (7.6 cm) of space between it and the ground surface. Then add 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water for each 50 pounds (23 kg) bag of concrete you used. Pour the water slowly so it soaks into the concrete powder and starts setting.\\nBuy quick-setting concrete from your local hardware store.\\nTo fill a hole that’s 30 inches (76 cm) deep and 12 inches (30 cm) wide, you usually need 4–5 bags that are 50 pounds (23 kg), but it will depend on the instructions on the label.\\n4-5. Let the concrete cure for 4 hours before removing the braces.\\nWhile the concrete will start hardening within 30 minutes, it takes more time for it to cure through to the middle. After the concrete cures, use the back of a claw hammer pry out the nails holding the braces against the posts.\\nStart setting other posts while the concrete dries so you don’t lose any time while you’re working.\\n5. Installing the Rail Boards\\n5-1. Mark 6 in (15 cm) up from the bottom of each post.\\nStart your measuring tape on the ground and extend it 6 inches (15 cm) up the side of the post. Draw a horizontal line on the post so you know where to place the bottom edge of the lowest rail board. Mark the rest of the posts the same way so you have guide lines.\\nLeaving 6 in (15 cm) of space prevents the wood from developing rot. It also allows livestock to graze underneath the fence without getting their legs or hooves caught.\\nAvoid leaving more than 12 inches (30 cm) between the bottom rail and the ground if you plan on keeping animals enclosed in the fence.\\n5-2. Drill 3 pilot holes 1 in (2.5 cm) in from the ends of the boards.\\nStart measuring from the short sides of your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) or 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards. Use a drill bit that’s ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) narrower than the diameters of the screws you’re using. Place the first and second holes so they’re ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) in from the long edges. Position the third hole so it’s in line with the other 2 holes.\\nIf you don’t drill pilot holes, you risk splitting the wood and ruining the piece of your fence.\\n5-3. Screw a board between 2 posts so they’re just above the marks.\\nAsk a helper to support one end of the board while you secure the other end to the first post. Position the end of the board so it’s in the center of the post and the bottom edge lines up with the marks you made. Make sure the board is parallel to the ground before driving 4 in (10 cm) weather-resistant screws into the holes with a drill. Tighten the screws on 1 end of the board before attaching the other end to the second post.\\nIf you don’t have a helper, prop the other end of the board up by 6 inches (15 cm) so you don’t screw it in at an angle.\\nDon’t cover the entire thickness of the post with the end of the board, or else you won’t have room to install the rails extending from the other side.\\n5-4. Add more boards so there’s 12 in (30 cm) between them vertically.\\nMeasure up from the top of the first board you attached between the posts so there’s 12 inches (30 cm) of space and mark it with your pencil. Hold the next rail board against the posts so they line up with your marks and screw them into the posts. Continue screwing boards up the posts until you reach the top.\\nAvoid leaving more than 12 inches (30 cm) of space between boards if you plan on keeping livestock since animals will be able to fit their heads through the gaps and reach items outside of the fence.\\nUsually, you will have enough space for 3 or 4 rails on your posts.\\n5-5. Continue adding the rails to the rest of the fence posts.\\nPosition additional rail boards so the seams are flush on the posts. Make sure the top and bottom edges of each board stay in line with the ones next to it so your fence has a clean appearance. Work your way around the perimeter of the fence so each post has 6–8 boards screwed into it, depending on how many rails you have.\\nIf the ground slopes between the fence posts, cut angled miters into the ends of the boards so they still fit flush together.\\n5-6. Cover the rail seams with vertical 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards.\\nStand 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards on their narrow ends and hold them tightly against the ends of the rail boards. Drive 2 nails that are 4 inches (10 cm) long through the board into each of the rail pieces to hold them securely in place. Repeat the process on the rest of the fence posts so the rails don’t come loose.\\nYou don’t need to add 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards if you don’t want to, but rails may be more likely to break or warp.\\nTips\\nIf you can’t afford all of the supplies to buy them all at once, buy and build your fence in small sections at a time.\\nWarnings\\nWear work gloves while handling the boards and posts to prevent getting splinters.\\nAlways double-check if the posts to see if they’re while you’re building so you don’t place them incorrectly.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A ranch-style fence, also known as a post and rail or pasture fence, has 3–4 horizontal rails spanning around the entire perimeter that work well for keeping livestock or just adding a decorative touch outside your home. While materials for a ranch-style fence tend to be the most expensive, you can build one on your own with a few tools and a bit of time. Start by plotting where you want your fence and marking it out on your property. Dig holes and place the posts in the ground at regular intervals before securing the horizontal boards or rails between them.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the Fence Layout\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Call the city’s zoning department to find the property lines and fence laws.\", \"描述\": \"Reach out to your local government’s zoning department and tell them that you want to build a fence. Give the department the address of your property so they can tell you where the edges of your property line are. They will also let you know if there are any rules for your fence, such as the maximum post height allowed.\\nTake notes while you’re on the phone so you don’t forget any of the regulations you need to follow.\\nMost fences don’t require a building permit, but ask the zoning department if you need one.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Have utility services mark underground lines on your property.\", \"描述\": \"Contact your local water, gas, and electric companies at least 3 days before you want to dig so they have time to visit your property. Tell the companies that you plan on digging on your property and give them your address. Within the next 2–3 days, workers from the utility companies will come to your property and paint lines on the ground where there are pipes or wires underground.\\nIf you live in the United States, you can call 811 to reach your utility companies.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sketch the layout for your fence on your property survey.\", \"描述\": \"A property survey is a detailed blueprint of your entire property and is usually with the closing paperwork for your home. Make a copy of the property survey and draw the layout for your fence on it with a pencil and straightedge. Draw the fence design proportionate to the rest of the property survey so you can see how long it will be and how many materials you need.\\nIf you don’t have a copy of your property survey, talk to the attorney or realtor that closed the sale of your home.\\nIf you aren’t able to make a copy of your property survey, place a piece of tracing paper over it before you start drawing.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Staking the Fence’s Perimeter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drive stakes into your yard for the corners and end posts of the fence.\", \"描述\": \"Look at the plan for your design and locate where your fence has 90-degree corners or comes to an end. Push a wooden stake into the ground so it’s 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) past where you want the center of the post. Extend a measuring tape from the stake to the nearest corner or end post and push in the next stake. Continue around the perimeter of the fence design placing stakes.\\nYou can buy wooden stakes from a home improvement store.\\nDon’t place the stakes where you want the centers of the posts since they will be in the way later on.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tie mason string between the stakes so it’s 6 in (15 cm) high.\", \"描述\": \"Loop a piece of mason string, which is a long spool of thick cord, around the stake so it’s 6 inches (15 cm) off the ground and secure it with a knot. Pull the string tight and extend it to the nearest stake marking a corner or end post. Cut the piece of string so you have 3 inches (7.6 cm) of excess and tie it tightly around the second stake. Continue tying new pieces of string between the stakes so it’s taut.\\nYou can buy mason string from your local hardware or home improvement store.\\nIf you don’t have mason string, you can also use twine instead.\\nKeeping the string 6 inches (15 cm) off the ground will help you measure your posts to ensure they are the same height.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Check if the corners where the strings intersect are square.\", \"描述\": \"Measure 3 feet (0.91 m) down the string from a corner stake and mark the location with a piece of tape. Then measure 4 feet (1.2 m) down the piece of string perpendicular to the first one and place a piece of tape on it. Extend your tape measure between the pieces of tape to see if it measures 5 feet (1.5 m). If it doesn’t, move the corner stake over by ⁄2–1 inch (1.3–2.5 cm) before checking the measurement again.\\nThe distance between the pieces of tape should be 5 feet (1.5 m) since the corner and the pieces of tape form a right triangle, which you can easily calculate the side lengths using the Pythagorean theorem. The theorem states a + b = c, where c is the longest side opposite of the corner.\\nIf the sides a and b are 3 and 4 feet (0.91 and 1.22 m), then the equation would be (3) + (4) = c.\\nSimplify the equation to 9 + 16 = c.\\nTake the square root of each side to get √(9 + 16) = √c.\\nSimplify the equation to √25 = c. This means that c should equal 5 feet (1.5 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stake the post locations every 6–8 ft (1.8–2.4 m) along the string.\", \"描述\": \"Start from one of the stakes marking an end post or corner, and extend your measuring tape to 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m). Push a wooden stake into the ground so it’s about 2 inches (5.1 cm) on the outside from the string. Continue working around the perimeter of the string and adding new stakes for each of the fence posts.\\nDon’t put the stake against or underneath the string since it will get in the way later on.\\nAvoid following the slope of the ground when you measure the post distance since you may get inaccurate measurements. Keep the measuring tape horizontal while you’re working.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Digging the Post Holes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy outdoor-treated posts and boards for your fence.\", \"描述\": \"Avoid getting lumber that hasn’t been treated for outdoor use since it’s more likely to rot or deteriorate. Use 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) fence posts that are around 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m) long depending on the height for your fence. Choose 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) or 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards that are 8 feet (2.4 m) long to span horizontally between your posts.\\nIf you can’t afford all of the materials for your fence, buy enough to work on a 8–16 ft (2.4–4.9 m) section at a time.\\nDivide the perimeter of the fence by 8 feet (240 cm) and multiply by 3 or 4 to find the total length of boards you need for the rails. For example, if the perimeter of your fence is 100 feet (30 m), then 100/8 = 12.5, which means you need 13 boards for 1 rail. To make a fence with 3 or 4 rails, you would need 39 or 52 boards respectively.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a post hole digger to make holes that are 30 in (76 cm) deep.\", \"描述\": \"Post hole diggers have 2 shovel blades that clamp around a section of soil so you can pull it out of the ground. Push the end of the post hole diggers into the ground where you want the center of your post. Pull the handles apart to grip the soil and pull the diggers straight out of the ground. Cut each hole so it’s at least 30 inches (76 cm) deep and 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter.\\nYou can buy post hole diggers from your local hardware or outdoor supply store.\\nIf you want to finish the job quicker, check your local hardware store for earth auger rentals, which drill through the soil and excavate it quicker. Keep the auger perfectly vertical while you drill into the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill the bottoms of the holes with 4 in (10 cm) of gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Gravel prevents water from collecting at the bottoms of the fence posts so they don’t develop rot. Pour the gravel directly into the hole or use a shovel to scoop it into the hole. Spread the gravel evenly in the hole so it forms a sturdy surface for the post.\\nYou can buy gravel from your local hardware store.\\nIf you have slow-draining soil or soil with a lot of clay, use 6 inches (15 cm) of gravel instead to improve drainage.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Setting the Posts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Tamp the surface of the gravel flat with the end of a fence post.\", \"描述\": \"Guide the narrow end of the fence post into the hole and carefully lower it onto the gravel. Pick the fence post up 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) and repeatedly tap the surface of the gravel. Work your way around the hole as you tamp t to flatten the gravel and provide a level surface for the fence post.\\nYou can also use a tamper to compact the gravel if you have one.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set a post in the center of a hole so it’s level.\", \"描述\": \"Guide the post so it sits in the middle of the hole and so the edge is parallel to the string. Secure a post level, which checks the vertical and horizontal levels at the same time, to the top of the fence post and check the reading. Move the top of the post to adjust the level and hold the post in place once it sits perfectly in the hole.\\nYou can buy post levels from your local hardware store.\\nYou may use a standard level if you want, but you’ll need to reposition it check the horizontal and vertical levels each time.\\nWork on 1 fence post at a time so it’s easier to support and brace.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Brace the post with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to keep it vertical.\", \"描述\": \"Place the end of a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board against the ground and lean it at a 45-degree angle toward the post. Pound 2 nails that are 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) long through the board and into the post. Place another board on the opposite side of the post so it doesn’t shift anymore.\\nIf your fence post is on a slope, brace the post on the lowest side so it doesn’t tip over or lean.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill around the hole with quick-setting concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Quick-setting concrete starts drying within 30–40 minutes so your fence posts are less likely to move or shift. Slowly pour the concrete mix directly into the hole until there’s 3 inches (7.6 cm) of space between it and the ground surface. Then add 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water for each 50 pounds (23 kg) bag of concrete you used. Pour the water slowly so it soaks into the concrete powder and starts setting.\\nBuy quick-setting concrete from your local hardware store.\\nTo fill a hole that’s 30 inches (76 cm) deep and 12 inches (30 cm) wide, you usually need 4–5 bags that are 50 pounds (23 kg), but it will depend on the instructions on the label.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Let the concrete cure for 4 hours before removing the braces.\", \"描述\": \"While the concrete will start hardening within 30 minutes, it takes more time for it to cure through to the middle. After the concrete cures, use the back of a claw hammer pry out the nails holding the braces against the posts.\\nStart setting other posts while the concrete dries so you don’t lose any time while you’re working.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Installing the Rail Boards\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark 6 in (15 cm) up from the bottom of each post.\", \"描述\": \"Start your measuring tape on the ground and extend it 6 inches (15 cm) up the side of the post. Draw a horizontal line on the post so you know where to place the bottom edge of the lowest rail board. Mark the rest of the posts the same way so you have guide lines.\\nLeaving 6 in (15 cm) of space prevents the wood from developing rot. It also allows livestock to graze underneath the fence without getting their legs or hooves caught.\\nAvoid leaving more than 12 inches (30 cm) between the bottom rail and the ground if you plan on keeping animals enclosed in the fence.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill 3 pilot holes 1 in (2.5 cm) in from the ends of the boards.\", \"描述\": \"Start measuring from the short sides of your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) or 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards. Use a drill bit that’s ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) narrower than the diameters of the screws you’re using. Place the first and second holes so they’re ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) in from the long edges. Position the third hole so it’s in line with the other 2 holes.\\nIf you don’t drill pilot holes, you risk splitting the wood and ruining the piece of your fence.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw a board between 2 posts so they’re just above the marks.\", \"描述\": \"Ask a helper to support one end of the board while you secure the other end to the first post. Position the end of the board so it’s in the center of the post and the bottom edge lines up with the marks you made. Make sure the board is parallel to the ground before driving 4 in (10 cm) weather-resistant screws into the holes with a drill. Tighten the screws on 1 end of the board before attaching the other end to the second post.\\nIf you don’t have a helper, prop the other end of the board up by 6 inches (15 cm) so you don’t screw it in at an angle.\\nDon’t cover the entire thickness of the post with the end of the board, or else you won’t have room to install the rails extending from the other side.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add more boards so there’s 12 in (30 cm) between them vertically.\", \"描述\": \"Measure up from the top of the first board you attached between the posts so there’s 12 inches (30 cm) of space and mark it with your pencil. Hold the next rail board against the posts so they line up with your marks and screw them into the posts. Continue screwing boards up the posts until you reach the top.\\nAvoid leaving more than 12 inches (30 cm) of space between boards if you plan on keeping livestock since animals will be able to fit their heads through the gaps and reach items outside of the fence.\\nUsually, you will have enough space for 3 or 4 rails on your posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Continue adding the rails to the rest of the fence posts.\", \"描述\": \"Position additional rail boards so the seams are flush on the posts. Make sure the top and bottom edges of each board stay in line with the ones next to it so your fence has a clean appearance. Work your way around the perimeter of the fence so each post has 6–8 boards screwed into it, depending on how many rails you have.\\nIf the ground slopes between the fence posts, cut angled miters into the ends of the boards so they still fit flush together.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cover the rail seams with vertical 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards.\", \"描述\": \"Stand 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards on their narrow ends and hold them tightly against the ends of the rail boards. Drive 2 nails that are 4 inches (10 cm) long through the board into each of the rail pieces to hold them securely in place. Repeat the process on the rest of the fence posts so the rails don’t come loose.\\nYou don’t need to add 1 in × 4 in (2.5 cm × 10.2 cm) boards if you don’t want to, but rails may be more likely to break or warp.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you can’t afford all of the supplies to buy them all at once, buy and build your fence in small sections at a time.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wear work gloves while handling the boards and posts to prevent getting splinters.\\n\", \"Always double-check if the posts to see if they’re while you’re building so you don’t place them incorrectly.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,500 |
How to Build a Rat Rod
|
1. Prepping the Frame
1-1. Procure an old car.
Visit a local junkyard to check out the oldest cars that are still intact, which might make good candidates. Several Rat-Rodding websites also exist with links to possibilities. Look for one that is not especially rusted, and has its essential shape is still intact. Typically, Rats are made from American cars, often pick-ups, manufactured pre-1960. Popular models for Rat Rods include:
Mid-century Chevrolet pick-up trucks
'30s-era Fords, esp. the "Model A"
Early Chrysler hemi engines are popular, as well as flathead V-8s
1-2. Remove all interior elements from the car.
To strip it down and start fresh, that means you'll need to remove all the seats, fixtures and other accessories from the car. Typically, cars used for Rat Rods are in pretty bad shape to begin with, in terms of the interior, making this step somewhat necessary.
1-3. Drain all gasoline from the gas tank
Position a container under the drain cock, or remove one of the fuel lines and collect any gas remaining in the gas tank. This is an essential step in prepping the car for Rodding, as you're going to be doing a lot of welding and any remaining traces of gasoline will be dangerous. Keep a fire extinguisher ready in your shop or garage at all times while you're working.
1-4. Size the frame however you want it.
Measure and mark where you want the vehicle's new axles and wheels to go, then cut the frame up to the desired length using a reciprocating saw. Since a Rat Rod is mostly about the look of the car, you'll mostly be flying by the seat of your pants anyway.
It's usually common to shorten the rear of the vehicle somewhat to accommodate the axle and eliminate any elements, such as roofs or hoods, that you no longer want. Make any cuts to accommodate the drivetrain.
1-5. Improvise.
It's also possible to build your own frame, using about 20 feet (6.1 m) of rectangular 2x4 steel tubing in the early stages, cut into two equal sections. Weld them together, patterned like a ladder, as square and as level as possible. Use one cross member toward the front, one in the back, and a crossing pattern in the middle to support the body. Match the width of the frame to the body you intend to use.
2. Building From the Ground Up
2-1. Aim to keep it under $3,000.
Among Rat-Rodders, it's a common goal to try to keep the total price-tag somewhere under $3,000 as a badge of your ability to work with limited materials. If you're up for a challenge, put your skills and your resourcefulness to the test and try to keep the project as cheap as possible by scrounging for a mishmash of parts in the junkyard, or on eBay.
2-2. Install new axles
You can customize your suspension using the latest in modern suspension technology, making the Rat a hybrid of old and new. Having a Model A that turns on a rail? Yes, please.
Start by measuring the rear width or rear body width and finding axles of the appropriate size. The axle should be somewhat longer than the width, and Leaf Spring rear axles are typically popular options because of their possibility for modification. Anything from the 60s and 70s is also popular, depending on the price.
Install coil springs in a side-to-side or parallel pattern by welding the upper mounts on the cross member in the rear and the lower mounts to the axle housing. To keep it cheap, use a straight axle in the front, salvaged or new.
The suspension from a Mustang II/ Pinto, AMC Pacer or Corvair are popular and useful choices, though ready-to-weld suspension kits are also available, sometimes for as little as a few hundred bucks, complete with frame and axle brackets, as well as template guides. It's a good investment, if you need new parts.
2-3. Mount the body on the frame.
Old truck bodies are by far the most popular choice, but you can also make use of more modern fiberglass, which is forgiving and easy to work with. Customize your body and make the rod you want, cutting it for the crude-style and swagger you want from a good Rat Rod, then weld it to the frame.
2-4. Rebuild the existing engine, or install a new engine
try to remember: a Rat Rod is a semi-legal and wonky glorified go-kart, so don't break the bank with the drive train. An old Chevy 350 or a Ford 302 are both super-common and usually-cheap options that you could get and rebuild however you want. Just get the thing running. The great thing about hot-rodding is that if you want to use an engine that really doesn't fit in the body, there's nothing stopping you from doing it but your own creativity and ingenuity. Make it fit. Leave the hood off and do what you want.
You might consider selling the block from the car you got initially, especially if the heads are worn out, then using the extra money you got from the sale to get something from the same era that actually runs.
Install any new starters or alternators as you install the engine into the frame. Make sure you have removed as much grease as you can from the engine before installing, then install the transmission and mount the drive shaft and the radiator. Hook up the steering linkage and install the pedals, welding any additional joints that will be necessary to keep the thing together.
2-5. Finish the job.
You'll be close to running at this point, but you'll still need to install the brakes and tires to try to make the Rod as safe as possible. It might not be street legal, eventually, but you'll have to make the thing stop. Put in a seat, or cut up a couch and use something bootleg and hilarious. Rat Rods are amenable to any weird ideas you've got about cars aesthetically. Have fun with it!
3. Styling Your Rat
3-1. Mount a windshield, side-view mirrors, and the rear-view mirror as necessary.
Rat Rods will often go without typical car accessories. Windows, covered seats, and even doors are purely optional. Keep your tools handy so that you can continue to tweak your rat rod even after you've taken it out for its first ride. Customize it creatively.
3-2. Paint the body of the rat rod using matte or spray paint.
Some Rat Rodders like to leave the rusty exterior basically as-is, to show how tough and lasting the original was and remains to be. If you want a slightly more polished look, but want to retain some of the grit, go for a matte base coat with some brownish spray highlights that might resemble rust, but also seal the exterior and protect it some.
3-3. Give it a theme.
Popular at parades and fairs, Rat Rods styled with unique themes will often draw a crowd. Using unusual objects instead of a steering wheel, for example, might be a fun project that'll get people chuckling. Check out other Rat Rods for inspiration and do something unique and fun to make it worth your while.
3-4. Be original.
Unlike hot rods, rat rods are customized cars that are not meant to resemble an antiquated original. Spice up your vehicle with odd adjustments and a colorful body, or dramatically alter the original frame to create an entirely new shape.
Tips
Much of the creative work on rat rods is done in the rear. Try finding the bumper of another car to weld onto your frame. If you have a pickup, try cutting off the bed to isolate the cab.
Rat rods often need to be shortened to accommodate new steering systems.
Warnings
When making a rat rod, always keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Even if you drain all the gasoline, explosions are possible while welding.
Take care when cutting and welding old metal. Surfaces can often be weaker than they appear, and the risk of contracting tetanus if old metal cuts the skin is great.[8]
X
Trustworthy Source
Mayo Clinic
Educational website from one of the world's leading hospitals
Go to source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:58",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Prepping the Frame\\n1-1. Procure an old car.\\nVisit a local junkyard to check out the oldest cars that are still intact, which might make good candidates. Several Rat-Rodding websites also exist with links to possibilities. Look for one that is not especially rusted, and has its essential shape is still intact. Typically, Rats are made from American cars, often pick-ups, manufactured pre-1960. Popular models for Rat Rods include:\\nMid-century Chevrolet pick-up trucks\\n'30s-era Fords, esp. the \\\"Model A\\\"\\nEarly Chrysler hemi engines are popular, as well as flathead V-8s\\n1-2. Remove all interior elements from the car.\\nTo strip it down and start fresh, that means you'll need to remove all the seats, fixtures and other accessories from the car. Typically, cars used for Rat Rods are in pretty bad shape to begin with, in terms of the interior, making this step somewhat necessary.\\n1-3. Drain all gasoline from the gas tank\\nPosition a container under the drain cock, or remove one of the fuel lines and collect any gas remaining in the gas tank. This is an essential step in prepping the car for Rodding, as you're going to be doing a lot of welding and any remaining traces of gasoline will be dangerous. Keep a fire extinguisher ready in your shop or garage at all times while you're working.\\n1-4. Size the frame however you want it.\\nMeasure and mark where you want the vehicle's new axles and wheels to go, then cut the frame up to the desired length using a reciprocating saw. Since a Rat Rod is mostly about the look of the car, you'll mostly be flying by the seat of your pants anyway.\\nIt's usually common to shorten the rear of the vehicle somewhat to accommodate the axle and eliminate any elements, such as roofs or hoods, that you no longer want. Make any cuts to accommodate the drivetrain.\\n1-5. Improvise.\\nIt's also possible to build your own frame, using about 20 feet (6.1 m) of rectangular 2x4 steel tubing in the early stages, cut into two equal sections. Weld them together, patterned like a ladder, as square and as level as possible. Use one cross member toward the front, one in the back, and a crossing pattern in the middle to support the body. Match the width of the frame to the body you intend to use.\\n2. Building From the Ground Up\\n2-1. Aim to keep it under $3,000.\\nAmong Rat-Rodders, it's a common goal to try to keep the total price-tag somewhere under $3,000 as a badge of your ability to work with limited materials. If you're up for a challenge, put your skills and your resourcefulness to the test and try to keep the project as cheap as possible by scrounging for a mishmash of parts in the junkyard, or on eBay.\\n2-2. Install new axles\\nYou can customize your suspension using the latest in modern suspension technology, making the Rat a hybrid of old and new. Having a Model A that turns on a rail? Yes, please.\\nStart by measuring the rear width or rear body width and finding axles of the appropriate size. The axle should be somewhat longer than the width, and Leaf Spring rear axles are typically popular options because of their possibility for modification. Anything from the 60s and 70s is also popular, depending on the price.\\nInstall coil springs in a side-to-side or parallel pattern by welding the upper mounts on the cross member in the rear and the lower mounts to the axle housing. To keep it cheap, use a straight axle in the front, salvaged or new.\\nThe suspension from a Mustang II/ Pinto, AMC Pacer or Corvair are popular and useful choices, though ready-to-weld suspension kits are also available, sometimes for as little as a few hundred bucks, complete with frame and axle brackets, as well as template guides. It's a good investment, if you need new parts.\\n2-3. Mount the body on the frame.\\nOld truck bodies are by far the most popular choice, but you can also make use of more modern fiberglass, which is forgiving and easy to work with. Customize your body and make the rod you want, cutting it for the crude-style and swagger you want from a good Rat Rod, then weld it to the frame.\\n2-4. Rebuild the existing engine, or install a new engine\\ntry to remember: a Rat Rod is a semi-legal and wonky glorified go-kart, so don't break the bank with the drive train. An old Chevy 350 or a Ford 302 are both super-common and usually-cheap options that you could get and rebuild however you want. Just get the thing running. The great thing about hot-rodding is that if you want to use an engine that really doesn't fit in the body, there's nothing stopping you from doing it but your own creativity and ingenuity. Make it fit. Leave the hood off and do what you want.\\nYou might consider selling the block from the car you got initially, especially if the heads are worn out, then using the extra money you got from the sale to get something from the same era that actually runs.\\nInstall any new starters or alternators as you install the engine into the frame. Make sure you have removed as much grease as you can from the engine before installing, then install the transmission and mount the drive shaft and the radiator. Hook up the steering linkage and install the pedals, welding any additional joints that will be necessary to keep the thing together.\\n2-5. Finish the job.\\nYou'll be close to running at this point, but you'll still need to install the brakes and tires to try to make the Rod as safe as possible. It might not be street legal, eventually, but you'll have to make the thing stop. Put in a seat, or cut up a couch and use something bootleg and hilarious. Rat Rods are amenable to any weird ideas you've got about cars aesthetically. Have fun with it!\\n3. Styling Your Rat\\n3-1. Mount a windshield, side-view mirrors, and the rear-view mirror as necessary.\\nRat Rods will often go without typical car accessories. Windows, covered seats, and even doors are purely optional. Keep your tools handy so that you can continue to tweak your rat rod even after you've taken it out for its first ride. Customize it creatively.\\n3-2. Paint the body of the rat rod using matte or spray paint.\\nSome Rat Rodders like to leave the rusty exterior basically as-is, to show how tough and lasting the original was and remains to be. If you want a slightly more polished look, but want to retain some of the grit, go for a matte base coat with some brownish spray highlights that might resemble rust, but also seal the exterior and protect it some.\\n3-3. Give it a theme.\\nPopular at parades and fairs, Rat Rods styled with unique themes will often draw a crowd. Using unusual objects instead of a steering wheel, for example, might be a fun project that'll get people chuckling. Check out other Rat Rods for inspiration and do something unique and fun to make it worth your while.\\n3-4. Be original.\\nUnlike hot rods, rat rods are customized cars that are not meant to resemble an antiquated original. Spice up your vehicle with odd adjustments and a colorful body, or dramatically alter the original frame to create an entirely new shape.\\nTips\\nMuch of the creative work on rat rods is done in the rear. Try finding the bumper of another car to weld onto your frame. If you have a pickup, try cutting off the bed to isolate the cab.\\nRat rods often need to be shortened to accommodate new steering systems.\\nWarnings\\nWhen making a rat rod, always keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Even if you drain all the gasoline, explosions are possible while welding.\\nTake care when cutting and welding old metal. Surfaces can often be weaker than they appear, and the risk of contracting tetanus if old metal cuts the skin is great.[8]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nMayo Clinic\\nEducational website from one of the world's leading hospitals\\nGo to source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Usually a backyard or garage project, Rat Rods often start entirely from scratch, or by combining the parts from two junkers to make little engines that could. The ideal Rat Rod looks like it shouldn't be able to hold together, much less move. Revered as much for aesthetic as for practical value, Rat Rods are in constant need of adjustment and tweaking, making them a fun project for garage hounds with extra parts and time.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepping the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Procure an old car.\", \"描述\": \"Visit a local junkyard to check out the oldest cars that are still intact, which might make good candidates. Several Rat-Rodding websites also exist with links to possibilities. Look for one that is not especially rusted, and has its essential shape is still intact. Typically, Rats are made from American cars, often pick-ups, manufactured pre-1960. Popular models for Rat Rods include:\\nMid-century Chevrolet pick-up trucks\\n'30s-era Fords, esp. the \\\"Model A\\\"\\nEarly Chrysler hemi engines are popular, as well as flathead V-8s\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove all interior elements from the car.\", \"描述\": \"To strip it down and start fresh, that means you'll need to remove all the seats, fixtures and other accessories from the car. Typically, cars used for Rat Rods are in pretty bad shape to begin with, in terms of the interior, making this step somewhat necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drain all gasoline from the gas tank\", \"描述\": \"Position a container under the drain cock, or remove one of the fuel lines and collect any gas remaining in the gas tank. This is an essential step in prepping the car for Rodding, as you're going to be doing a lot of welding and any remaining traces of gasoline will be dangerous. Keep a fire extinguisher ready in your shop or garage at all times while you're working.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Size the frame however you want it.\", \"描述\": \"Measure and mark where you want the vehicle's new axles and wheels to go, then cut the frame up to the desired length using a reciprocating saw. Since a Rat Rod is mostly about the look of the car, you'll mostly be flying by the seat of your pants anyway.\\nIt's usually common to shorten the rear of the vehicle somewhat to accommodate the axle and eliminate any elements, such as roofs or hoods, that you no longer want. Make any cuts to accommodate the drivetrain.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Improvise.\", \"描述\": \"It's also possible to build your own frame, using about 20 feet (6.1 m) of rectangular 2x4 steel tubing in the early stages, cut into two equal sections. Weld them together, patterned like a ladder, as square and as level as possible. Use one cross member toward the front, one in the back, and a crossing pattern in the middle to support the body. Match the width of the frame to the body you intend to use.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building From the Ground Up\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Aim to keep it under $3,000.\", \"描述\": \"Among Rat-Rodders, it's a common goal to try to keep the total price-tag somewhere under $3,000 as a badge of your ability to work with limited materials. If you're up for a challenge, put your skills and your resourcefulness to the test and try to keep the project as cheap as possible by scrounging for a mishmash of parts in the junkyard, or on eBay.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install new axles\", \"描述\": \"You can customize your suspension using the latest in modern suspension technology, making the Rat a hybrid of old and new. Having a Model A that turns on a rail? Yes, please.\\nStart by measuring the rear width or rear body width and finding axles of the appropriate size. The axle should be somewhat longer than the width, and Leaf Spring rear axles are typically popular options because of their possibility for modification. Anything from the 60s and 70s is also popular, depending on the price.\\nInstall coil springs in a side-to-side or parallel pattern by welding the upper mounts on the cross member in the rear and the lower mounts to the axle housing. To keep it cheap, use a straight axle in the front, salvaged or new.\\nThe suspension from a Mustang II/ Pinto, AMC Pacer or Corvair are popular and useful choices, though ready-to-weld suspension kits are also available, sometimes for as little as a few hundred bucks, complete with frame and axle brackets, as well as template guides. It's a good investment, if you need new parts.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mount the body on the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Old truck bodies are by far the most popular choice, but you can also make use of more modern fiberglass, which is forgiving and easy to work with. Customize your body and make the rod you want, cutting it for the crude-style and swagger you want from a good Rat Rod, then weld it to the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Rebuild the existing engine, or install a new engine\", \"描述\": \"try to remember: a Rat Rod is a semi-legal and wonky glorified go-kart, so don't break the bank with the drive train. An old Chevy 350 or a Ford 302 are both super-common and usually-cheap options that you could get and rebuild however you want. Just get the thing running. The great thing about hot-rodding is that if you want to use an engine that really doesn't fit in the body, there's nothing stopping you from doing it but your own creativity and ingenuity. Make it fit. Leave the hood off and do what you want.\\nYou might consider selling the block from the car you got initially, especially if the heads are worn out, then using the extra money you got from the sale to get something from the same era that actually runs.\\nInstall any new starters or alternators as you install the engine into the frame. Make sure you have removed as much grease as you can from the engine before installing, then install the transmission and mount the drive shaft and the radiator. Hook up the steering linkage and install the pedals, welding any additional joints that will be necessary to keep the thing together.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Finish the job.\", \"描述\": \"You'll be close to running at this point, but you'll still need to install the brakes and tires to try to make the Rod as safe as possible. It might not be street legal, eventually, but you'll have to make the thing stop. Put in a seat, or cut up a couch and use something bootleg and hilarious. Rat Rods are amenable to any weird ideas you've got about cars aesthetically. Have fun with it!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Styling Your Rat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mount a windshield, side-view mirrors, and the rear-view mirror as necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Rat Rods will often go without typical car accessories. Windows, covered seats, and even doors are purely optional. Keep your tools handy so that you can continue to tweak your rat rod even after you've taken it out for its first ride. Customize it creatively.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint the body of the rat rod using matte or spray paint.\", \"描述\": \"Some Rat Rodders like to leave the rusty exterior basically as-is, to show how tough and lasting the original was and remains to be. If you want a slightly more polished look, but want to retain some of the grit, go for a matte base coat with some brownish spray highlights that might resemble rust, but also seal the exterior and protect it some.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Give it a theme.\", \"描述\": \"Popular at parades and fairs, Rat Rods styled with unique themes will often draw a crowd. Using unusual objects instead of a steering wheel, for example, might be a fun project that'll get people chuckling. Check out other Rat Rods for inspiration and do something unique and fun to make it worth your while.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Be original.\", \"描述\": \"Unlike hot rods, rat rods are customized cars that are not meant to resemble an antiquated original. Spice up your vehicle with odd adjustments and a colorful body, or dramatically alter the original frame to create an entirely new shape.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Much of the creative work on rat rods is done in the rear. Try finding the bumper of another car to weld onto your frame. If you have a pickup, try cutting off the bed to isolate the cab.\\n\", \"Rat rods often need to be shortened to accommodate new steering systems.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"When making a rat rod, always keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Even if you drain all the gasoline, explosions are possible while welding.\\n\", \"Take care when cutting and welding old metal. Surfaces can often be weaker than they appear, and the risk of contracting tetanus if old metal cuts the skin is great.[8]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nMayo Clinic\\nEducational website from one of the world's leading hospitals\\nGo to source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,501 |
How to Build a Real Estate Business
|
1. Become a Real Estate Agent
1-1. Get a bachelors degree.
While becoming an agent only requires a high school diploma, the finances involved in real estate are becoming more complex. This makes brokerages less likely to hire someone without at least a bachelors degree. Plus, the information you get in these classes will help when you take coursework for licensing.
If you are interested in become a real estate agent, focus on classes in real estate, business administration, marketing, and finance. Check if your school offers courses that involve real estate law, land-use planning, ethics, and environmental issues. Additionally, you will also want to have a strong background in statistics and English.
1-2. Save money.
To break into the real estate business, you will need a bit of savings. Coursework, exam and licensing fees, and advertising can cost around $6,000 as you try to get started. Beyond that, it will be several months until you start to get clients and have deals to close, so you may not be getting paid as well.
One good estimate is that you will need to be able to cover six months of living expenses to account for the time when you won’t be pulling in an income.
1-3. Learn your state’s rules.
Every state requires some amount of pre-licensing coursework before taking the required exams. That number varies between states, so make sure you know what your state requires before signing up for classes.
Each state has a variety of laws involving real estate practices, licensing requirements and fees, and regulations involving commerce. Your best bet for specific information is your state’s real estate commission.
If you live near a state border, it might be beneficial to get licenses in several states. For most states, a portion of the exam covers national real estate law, so your additional studying will only need to cover differences in state laws.
1-4. Take real estate classes.
Every state requires a different amount of hours to qualify for the licensing exam. You may need to cover these hours in a classroom, which you can usually do through local colleges.
While individual rules may vary by state, real estate classes taken in college can cover state requirements. If your college doesn’t have all of the required classes, you can taken them through an approved provider, which can be another college, a trade association, or other licensed on-site or correspondence schools. These other methods are useful if you are becoming a real estate agent as a second career.
In some states, like California, you may be able to get the required hours through an online course you can complete in 2 ½ weeks, while Texas requires up to 180 classroom hours (six courses of 30 hours each). Real estate coursework covers a variety of topics dealing with the principles of real estate work, including contract and agency law, contract forms, and real estate financing.
1-5. Take your state’s licensing exam.
Every state has an exam that you need to pass in order to receive your license. Check with your individual state’s licensing office to find out when and how you will take the exam, and what materials you are required to bring.
Exams contain questions that cover information related to both state and national real estate laws. California’s exam covers several broad areas that demonstrate an understanding of the linguistic and mathematical skills of real estate, knowledge of the profession’s practices, and recognition of the agent’s obligation to a client and other ethical practices. The state also points out that these are all potential topics, and the exam will not cover all of them, only a selection.
The point of the exam is to show you have mastered the minimum amount information needed to understand the real estate process. Because there is a lot to the process, it is better to take the exam shortly after finishing the course.
1-6. Join a brokerage.
These are the businesses in which real estate agents work, and working with one is a requirement. If you want to practice as a real estate agent, you will want to get in contact with one before you finishing coursework. That way, you will have somewhere to start working once you are certified. Even if you decide to go independent as an agent, you will still need contact with a broker to complete transactions.
You can find employment with a broker through a variety of means. Many post agent openings through employment pages in newspapers and internet job sites, as well as on their own website. In addition, larger brokerages give you the opportunity to apply for an interview to see what is available.
Some brokerages will require you to take additional coursework and continuing education to further your development while you are working for them. Remember that the state requirements are only the minimum, and if your brokerage is a good one, they may expect more. Make sure you discuss those requirements and are prepared to meet them before signing up.
2. Starting Your Company
2-1. Become a broker.
In order to strike out on your own as a business, you will need to become a broker. State requirements for becoming a broker vary, but they generally involve several years of experience as an agent, continuing education coursework, and passing a broker examination.
For example, in New York, you must have at least 2 years of experience as a licensed salesperson, or 3 years in the general real estate field. You must complete a 45-hour real estate broker class, then pass a state-administered qualifying exam. If you are not a licensed agent already, you will also need to complete the 75-hour qualifying salesperson course.
2-2. Find your niche.
Like any new business, you will need a niche to get started and find new customers. Consider what kind of real estate you want to see, as well as different customer bases you are hoping to serve.
One good rule of thumb, especially when you are getting started, is to look for niches you already know. These can be areas you have worked in before, or things you are familiar with through your own personal life. This will give you an advantage in marketing your business to certain types of property owners without much new research. For example, if you have previously worked in the hotel industry, you will be able to speak to the concerns of hotel owners in a way that other real estate professionals cannot.
Another place to look is finding something you love, and look for a niche to serve similar people. You may not know everything about real estate in that area, but you’ll probably have some background into what people are looking for. If you like spending time outdoors, you probably have already thought about the things you would look for in a property that would aid in hunting, farming, or other similar activities. It will be much easier to learn more about that type of property, and market your skills to potential customers, if you are interested in the topic.
It is better to find a niche rather than try to be a “one size fits all” company. This will help you target your marketing, and prevent you from taking on clients whose needs are too diverse.
2-3. Create your business plan
If you are going into business independently, you will need a plan to help establish your structure and explain your goals to potential investors and employees. Describe the market you intend to reach and how you plan to target them.
As your business will eventually expand to hire more agents, you’ll want to make sure your plan mentions them. Be sure to explain how you intend to recruit and train them, as well as how you intend to keep them.
Remember to be clear about your mission statement and goals. Your mission statement should be brief, and quickly explain what you do and how you intend to do it. Your goals need to be clear and measurable, and have definitive time frames for achieving them.
A real estate business plan needs to consider the number of clients you will need to reach in order to reach your goals. Remembering that not all of your contacts will lead to sales, multiply your expected sales by 2 (3 if you are a relatively inexperienced seller) to account for the sales you won’t make. Dividing this number by 40 gives you the number of new clients you will need to acquire each week.
2-4. Register the business in your state.
Every state has a different office and requirements for registering a new real estate company. In Florida, for example, you must fill out a specific form (Form DBPR-RE 7), pay a fee, and meet certain requirements regarding the structure of your business and the roles of your employees.
Some cities and counties will have additional requirements and fees. For example, in San Francisco, you will need to register with the city office, pay a fee based on the type and amount of business you do in the city, and provide information on your business’ legal structure.
2-5. Get tax information.
Your business will need to pay taxes, so you will need tax identification information from federal and state offices. This information should be available through the appropriate taxation offices.
Get an Employer Identification Number (EIN) from the IRS. You can apply through the IRS website, or you can fax or mail a completed SS-4 form. Filing online will get you an EIN immediately, while the mailed or faxed form should return a number in about four business days. Filing for an EIN is free.
When you incorporate as a business, and register in your state, you should receive a state-level tax identification number. Each state has different obligations and requirements, so make sure you know your state's relevant laws.
2-6. Hire staff.
You can run an independent real estate business by yourself, but if you want to grow you’ll need additional employees. This doesn’t just mean agents, but assistants and other staff to help keep the business running smoothly.
The most obvious hire is new agents. You can consider older, more established agents, who may be able to come with their own clients. They will also probably command a higher salary. You can also look at newer agents, who will cost less, but also require training and experience. Since a lot of real estate business is done offsite, and outside of regular business hours, good real estate agents should be hard-working, independent agents who can relate well to your customer base without your presence.
You should take an active role in training and improving your agents. You’ll want to make sure they are all doing consistent, quality work as part of building your brand. Some of the best ones will eventually want to leave. While you may be able to encourage some to stay, you should be willing to let them leave to pursue their dreams of independent success.
Other aspects of your business like taxes and payroll are every bit as important as the actual real estate work, and you need to make sure they are taken care of professionally. Better to hire an accountant than have you or one of your agents take on that task in addition to their regular job.
2-7. Tell others that you have started a business.
Use your existing network of friends and family as well as clients. If they don’t know you’ve started out on your own, how will they know to look for you?
Advertise. Find ways to get your name out there. Consider the type of audience you want to reach, and the mediums that are most useful for getting their attention. Because of the variety of people searching for real estate, both online and traditional print forms are likely to be useful for getting your business out there. If you are worried about how advertising will affect your bottom line, consider different ways to promote your business for free.
Not all of the people you contact will need your services, at least right away. This will start getting the word out, and let them think of you when they do need to get involved with real estate.
2-8. Ask for referrals.
Real estate can be a very personal business, so don’t be afraid to use your current clients to drum up more businesses. If you’ve done a good job, they will be more likely to tell others, giving you a head start on getting additional clients.
The best time to ask for referrals is right after you have closed a sale or provided a major service to a client. Your client will be in a good mood, and more likely to help. Plus, doing it sooner could jeopardize a sale.
2-9. Create a customer database.
As you expand your reach, it will be helpful to create a database of all your customers, and information about them. This information should be put into a shared database so that all of your employees can reference it.
When you build the database, you should include as much important information as you can about each customer. Remember what kind of things they were looking for in property, who they might know, and any other information that might be useful in staying connected with them and building your network.
2-10. Act like a manager.
This is more of a psychological step than a physical one. Once you have your own business, you will have less time to spend on the work of an agent, buying and selling property. If anything, you will probably only be stepping in on sales to resolve issues, not initiating work. Make sure to take the time to manage the business, and trust your agents to manage your relationships and property transfers.
Create a set of standards and best practices for your employees to follow. These can be steps to working with clients or reaching out to new customers that everyone in the business will know and follow. This will help create consistency across your business, and allow you to think ahead rather than try to micromanage each transaction.
Give yourself tasks to accomplish. If you are the manager, you will need to be proactive about your workload. Rather than focusing on closing sales, think about ways you want to attract new clients, or better promote your business. Review your business’ activity, and try to find ways to make it more efficient. You should not be waiting for things to come up so you can resolve them.
3. Expanding Your Business
3-1. Create a business network.
Join local organizations of real estate agents, or other business professionals like the Chamber of Commerce. In addition to expanding your potential client base, you will also be able to work with others in your field to better understand local market conditions.
Join the National Associate of Realtors. This is a national organization of real estate agents that helps to drive the profession. Its members set a code of ethics, and will provide associations that can increase your knowledge of national and local industry conditions. To become a Realtor, you need to take additional coursework and demonstrate skills in a specific area of real estate. Some of the NAR’s listed specializations include knowledge on green (eco-friendly) real estate and real estate technology, or dealing with specific customer bases such as seniors, minorities, or military relocation.
3-2. Explore your market.
If you’re in real estate, you know that location matters. Make sure you know the market you are working in, and are keeping track of the changes. You may notice new niches to start on, or find that your niche is closing in your neighborhood. Staying ahead of these trends will help you to avoid trouble and keep your business growing.
Look at population and business trends in your area. New businesses opening means new people, many of whom will be looking to buy homes. On the other hand, if the population is older, you’ll have more people wanting to sell.
Social media relationships with your customers are another good way to notice market trends. Always remember to listen to your clients, and don’t be afraid to engage your customers about things they see in the neighborhood.
Keep an eye out for foreclosures, auctions, or other property sales. Even in a strong market, these kinds of things happen. Someone’s misfortune could be your economic opportunity.
3-3. Create an internet presence.
For a personal business like real estate, having a presence that people can access easily is vitally important. In addition to your own website, there are many social media sites that can provide platforms to reach customers and receive real time feedback.
Make sure you have a website that includes basic information about your business and the customers you want to reach. Make sure it includes current information on your location and contact information.
Twitter is an excellent resource for a real estate business. Create a handle that reflects your business name or what you do. Make sure to use your tweets to drive traffic back to your website and other social media platforms, including links back to new things you have like blog posts. Twitter is a good way to highlight outside information or links that may be of interest to your clients, even if you didn’t write them.
Make sure you have a strong online presence on other social media sites like LinkedIn, Facebook, and Google+, as well as service review sites like Angie’s List.
3-4. Hire additional staff.
As your company grows, you may want to hire additional agents and brokers. With a bigger staff, you may need to hire for offices such as human resource and payroll services.
As you expand, make sure you keep track of your business’ and employees’ tax information. Make sure your workers fill out both the I-9 Form (for employment eligibility) and W-4 Form (for taxation). Keep all your employees' tax forms filed for easy reference.
Tips
This is a sales business, and you won’t sell to everyone. Remember not to take rejection personally, and you’ll be able to get past it to find the people who really want what you are selling.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:58",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Become a Real Estate Agent\\n1-1. Get a bachelors degree.\\nWhile becoming an agent only requires a high school diploma, the finances involved in real estate are becoming more complex. This makes brokerages less likely to hire someone without at least a bachelors degree. Plus, the information you get in these classes will help when you take coursework for licensing.\\nIf you are interested in become a real estate agent, focus on classes in real estate, business administration, marketing, and finance. Check if your school offers courses that involve real estate law, land-use planning, ethics, and environmental issues. Additionally, you will also want to have a strong background in statistics and English.\\n1-2. Save money.\\nTo break into the real estate business, you will need a bit of savings. Coursework, exam and licensing fees, and advertising can cost around $6,000 as you try to get started. Beyond that, it will be several months until you start to get clients and have deals to close, so you may not be getting paid as well.\\nOne good estimate is that you will need to be able to cover six months of living expenses to account for the time when you won’t be pulling in an income.\\n1-3. Learn your state’s rules.\\nEvery state requires some amount of pre-licensing coursework before taking the required exams. That number varies between states, so make sure you know what your state requires before signing up for classes.\\nEach state has a variety of laws involving real estate practices, licensing requirements and fees, and regulations involving commerce. Your best bet for specific information is your state’s real estate commission.\\nIf you live near a state border, it might be beneficial to get licenses in several states. For most states, a portion of the exam covers national real estate law, so your additional studying will only need to cover differences in state laws.\\n1-4. Take real estate classes.\\nEvery state requires a different amount of hours to qualify for the licensing exam. You may need to cover these hours in a classroom, which you can usually do through local colleges.\\nWhile individual rules may vary by state, real estate classes taken in college can cover state requirements. If your college doesn’t have all of the required classes, you can taken them through an approved provider, which can be another college, a trade association, or other licensed on-site or correspondence schools. These other methods are useful if you are becoming a real estate agent as a second career.\\nIn some states, like California, you may be able to get the required hours through an online course you can complete in 2 ½ weeks, while Texas requires up to 180 classroom hours (six courses of 30 hours each). Real estate coursework covers a variety of topics dealing with the principles of real estate work, including contract and agency law, contract forms, and real estate financing.\\n1-5. Take your state’s licensing exam.\\nEvery state has an exam that you need to pass in order to receive your license. Check with your individual state’s licensing office to find out when and how you will take the exam, and what materials you are required to bring.\\nExams contain questions that cover information related to both state and national real estate laws. California’s exam covers several broad areas that demonstrate an understanding of the linguistic and mathematical skills of real estate, knowledge of the profession’s practices, and recognition of the agent’s obligation to a client and other ethical practices. The state also points out that these are all potential topics, and the exam will not cover all of them, only a selection.\\nThe point of the exam is to show you have mastered the minimum amount information needed to understand the real estate process. Because there is a lot to the process, it is better to take the exam shortly after finishing the course.\\n1-6. Join a brokerage.\\nThese are the businesses in which real estate agents work, and working with one is a requirement. If you want to practice as a real estate agent, you will want to get in contact with one before you finishing coursework. That way, you will have somewhere to start working once you are certified. Even if you decide to go independent as an agent, you will still need contact with a broker to complete transactions.\\nYou can find employment with a broker through a variety of means. Many post agent openings through employment pages in newspapers and internet job sites, as well as on their own website. In addition, larger brokerages give you the opportunity to apply for an interview to see what is available.\\nSome brokerages will require you to take additional coursework and continuing education to further your development while you are working for them. Remember that the state requirements are only the minimum, and if your brokerage is a good one, they may expect more. Make sure you discuss those requirements and are prepared to meet them before signing up.\\n2. Starting Your Company\\n2-1. Become a broker.\\nIn order to strike out on your own as a business, you will need to become a broker. State requirements for becoming a broker vary, but they generally involve several years of experience as an agent, continuing education coursework, and passing a broker examination.\\nFor example, in New York, you must have at least 2 years of experience as a licensed salesperson, or 3 years in the general real estate field. You must complete a 45-hour real estate broker class, then pass a state-administered qualifying exam. If you are not a licensed agent already, you will also need to complete the 75-hour qualifying salesperson course.\\n2-2. Find your niche.\\nLike any new business, you will need a niche to get started and find new customers. Consider what kind of real estate you want to see, as well as different customer bases you are hoping to serve. \\nOne good rule of thumb, especially when you are getting started, is to look for niches you already know. These can be areas you have worked in before, or things you are familiar with through your own personal life. This will give you an advantage in marketing your business to certain types of property owners without much new research. For example, if you have previously worked in the hotel industry, you will be able to speak to the concerns of hotel owners in a way that other real estate professionals cannot.\\nAnother place to look is finding something you love, and look for a niche to serve similar people. You may not know everything about real estate in that area, but you’ll probably have some background into what people are looking for. If you like spending time outdoors, you probably have already thought about the things you would look for in a property that would aid in hunting, farming, or other similar activities. It will be much easier to learn more about that type of property, and market your skills to potential customers, if you are interested in the topic.\\nIt is better to find a niche rather than try to be a “one size fits all” company. This will help you target your marketing, and prevent you from taking on clients whose needs are too diverse.\\n2-3. Create your business plan\\nIf you are going into business independently, you will need a plan to help establish your structure and explain your goals to potential investors and employees. Describe the market you intend to reach and how you plan to target them.\\nAs your business will eventually expand to hire more agents, you’ll want to make sure your plan mentions them. Be sure to explain how you intend to recruit and train them, as well as how you intend to keep them.\\nRemember to be clear about your mission statement and goals. Your mission statement should be brief, and quickly explain what you do and how you intend to do it. Your goals need to be clear and measurable, and have definitive time frames for achieving them.\\nA real estate business plan needs to consider the number of clients you will need to reach in order to reach your goals. Remembering that not all of your contacts will lead to sales, multiply your expected sales by 2 (3 if you are a relatively inexperienced seller) to account for the sales you won’t make. Dividing this number by 40 gives you the number of new clients you will need to acquire each week.\\n2-4. Register the business in your state.\\nEvery state has a different office and requirements for registering a new real estate company. In Florida, for example, you must fill out a specific form (Form DBPR-RE 7), pay a fee, and meet certain requirements regarding the structure of your business and the roles of your employees.\\nSome cities and counties will have additional requirements and fees. For example, in San Francisco, you will need to register with the city office, pay a fee based on the type and amount of business you do in the city, and provide information on your business’ legal structure.\\n2-5. Get tax information.\\nYour business will need to pay taxes, so you will need tax identification information from federal and state offices. This information should be available through the appropriate taxation offices.\\nGet an Employer Identification Number (EIN) from the IRS. You can apply through the IRS website, or you can fax or mail a completed SS-4 form. Filing online will get you an EIN immediately, while the mailed or faxed form should return a number in about four business days. Filing for an EIN is free.\\nWhen you incorporate as a business, and register in your state, you should receive a state-level tax identification number. Each state has different obligations and requirements, so make sure you know your state's relevant laws.\\n2-6. Hire staff.\\nYou can run an independent real estate business by yourself, but if you want to grow you’ll need additional employees. This doesn’t just mean agents, but assistants and other staff to help keep the business running smoothly.\\nThe most obvious hire is new agents. You can consider older, more established agents, who may be able to come with their own clients. They will also probably command a higher salary. You can also look at newer agents, who will cost less, but also require training and experience. Since a lot of real estate business is done offsite, and outside of regular business hours, good real estate agents should be hard-working, independent agents who can relate well to your customer base without your presence.\\nYou should take an active role in training and improving your agents. You’ll want to make sure they are all doing consistent, quality work as part of building your brand. Some of the best ones will eventually want to leave. While you may be able to encourage some to stay, you should be willing to let them leave to pursue their dreams of independent success.\\nOther aspects of your business like taxes and payroll are every bit as important as the actual real estate work, and you need to make sure they are taken care of professionally. Better to hire an accountant than have you or one of your agents take on that task in addition to their regular job.\\n2-7. Tell others that you have started a business.\\nUse your existing network of friends and family as well as clients. If they don’t know you’ve started out on your own, how will they know to look for you? \\n\\n Advertise. Find ways to get your name out there. Consider the type of audience you want to reach, and the mediums that are most useful for getting their attention. Because of the variety of people searching for real estate, both online and traditional print forms are likely to be useful for getting your business out there. If you are worried about how advertising will affect your bottom line, consider different ways to promote your business for free.\\nNot all of the people you contact will need your services, at least right away. This will start getting the word out, and let them think of you when they do need to get involved with real estate.\\n2-8. Ask for referrals.\\nReal estate can be a very personal business, so don’t be afraid to use your current clients to drum up more businesses. If you’ve done a good job, they will be more likely to tell others, giving you a head start on getting additional clients.\\nThe best time to ask for referrals is right after you have closed a sale or provided a major service to a client. Your client will be in a good mood, and more likely to help. Plus, doing it sooner could jeopardize a sale.\\n2-9. Create a customer database.\\nAs you expand your reach, it will be helpful to create a database of all your customers, and information about them. This information should be put into a shared database so that all of your employees can reference it.\\nWhen you build the database, you should include as much important information as you can about each customer. Remember what kind of things they were looking for in property, who they might know, and any other information that might be useful in staying connected with them and building your network.\\n2-10. Act like a manager.\\nThis is more of a psychological step than a physical one. Once you have your own business, you will have less time to spend on the work of an agent, buying and selling property. If anything, you will probably only be stepping in on sales to resolve issues, not initiating work. Make sure to take the time to manage the business, and trust your agents to manage your relationships and property transfers.\\nCreate a set of standards and best practices for your employees to follow. These can be steps to working with clients or reaching out to new customers that everyone in the business will know and follow. This will help create consistency across your business, and allow you to think ahead rather than try to micromanage each transaction.\\nGive yourself tasks to accomplish. If you are the manager, you will need to be proactive about your workload. Rather than focusing on closing sales, think about ways you want to attract new clients, or better promote your business. Review your business’ activity, and try to find ways to make it more efficient. You should not be waiting for things to come up so you can resolve them.\\n3. Expanding Your Business\\n3-1. Create a business network.\\nJoin local organizations of real estate agents, or other business professionals like the Chamber of Commerce. In addition to expanding your potential client base, you will also be able to work with others in your field to better understand local market conditions. \\nJoin the National Associate of Realtors. This is a national organization of real estate agents that helps to drive the profession. Its members set a code of ethics, and will provide associations that can increase your knowledge of national and local industry conditions. To become a Realtor, you need to take additional coursework and demonstrate skills in a specific area of real estate. Some of the NAR’s listed specializations include knowledge on green (eco-friendly) real estate and real estate technology, or dealing with specific customer bases such as seniors, minorities, or military relocation.\\n3-2. Explore your market.\\nIf you’re in real estate, you know that location matters. Make sure you know the market you are working in, and are keeping track of the changes. You may notice new niches to start on, or find that your niche is closing in your neighborhood. Staying ahead of these trends will help you to avoid trouble and keep your business growing.\\nLook at population and business trends in your area. New businesses opening means new people, many of whom will be looking to buy homes. On the other hand, if the population is older, you’ll have more people wanting to sell.\\nSocial media relationships with your customers are another good way to notice market trends. Always remember to listen to your clients, and don’t be afraid to engage your customers about things they see in the neighborhood.\\nKeep an eye out for foreclosures, auctions, or other property sales. Even in a strong market, these kinds of things happen. Someone’s misfortune could be your economic opportunity.\\n3-3. Create an internet presence.\\nFor a personal business like real estate, having a presence that people can access easily is vitally important. In addition to your own website, there are many social media sites that can provide platforms to reach customers and receive real time feedback.\\nMake sure you have a website that includes basic information about your business and the customers you want to reach. Make sure it includes current information on your location and contact information.\\nTwitter is an excellent resource for a real estate business. Create a handle that reflects your business name or what you do. Make sure to use your tweets to drive traffic back to your website and other social media platforms, including links back to new things you have like blog posts. Twitter is a good way to highlight outside information or links that may be of interest to your clients, even if you didn’t write them.\\nMake sure you have a strong online presence on other social media sites like LinkedIn, Facebook, and Google+, as well as service review sites like Angie’s List.\\n3-4. Hire additional staff.\\nAs your company grows, you may want to hire additional agents and brokers. With a bigger staff, you may need to hire for offices such as human resource and payroll services.\\nAs you expand, make sure you keep track of your business’ and employees’ tax information. Make sure your workers fill out both the I-9 Form (for employment eligibility) and W-4 Form (for taxation). Keep all your employees' tax forms filed for easy reference.\\nTips\\nThis is a sales business, and you won’t sell to everyone. Remember not to take rejection personally, and you’ll be able to get past it to find the people who really want what you are selling.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"In any economy, there will always be people looking to buy and sell property. The real estate industry, surrounding those who conduct and facilitate these transactions, can be a lucrative field for starting and growing your own business. Being your own boss, especially in a field like real estate, will give you something interesting to do, and allow you the opportunity to set your own hours and salary.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Become a Real Estate Agent\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a bachelors degree.\", \"描述\": \"While becoming an agent only requires a high school diploma, the finances involved in real estate are becoming more complex. This makes brokerages less likely to hire someone without at least a bachelors degree. Plus, the information you get in these classes will help when you take coursework for licensing.\\nIf you are interested in become a real estate agent, focus on classes in real estate, business administration, marketing, and finance. Check if your school offers courses that involve real estate law, land-use planning, ethics, and environmental issues. Additionally, you will also want to have a strong background in statistics and English.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Save money.\", \"描述\": \"To break into the real estate business, you will need a bit of savings. Coursework, exam and licensing fees, and advertising can cost around $6,000 as you try to get started. Beyond that, it will be several months until you start to get clients and have deals to close, so you may not be getting paid as well.\\nOne good estimate is that you will need to be able to cover six months of living expenses to account for the time when you won’t be pulling in an income.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Learn your state’s rules.\", \"描述\": \"Every state requires some amount of pre-licensing coursework before taking the required exams. That number varies between states, so make sure you know what your state requires before signing up for classes.\\nEach state has a variety of laws involving real estate practices, licensing requirements and fees, and regulations involving commerce. Your best bet for specific information is your state’s real estate commission.\\nIf you live near a state border, it might be beneficial to get licenses in several states. For most states, a portion of the exam covers national real estate law, so your additional studying will only need to cover differences in state laws.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take real estate classes.\", \"描述\": \"Every state requires a different amount of hours to qualify for the licensing exam. You may need to cover these hours in a classroom, which you can usually do through local colleges.\\nWhile individual rules may vary by state, real estate classes taken in college can cover state requirements. If your college doesn’t have all of the required classes, you can taken them through an approved provider, which can be another college, a trade association, or other licensed on-site or correspondence schools. These other methods are useful if you are becoming a real estate agent as a second career.\\nIn some states, like California, you may be able to get the required hours through an online course you can complete in 2 ½ weeks, while Texas requires up to 180 classroom hours (six courses of 30 hours each). Real estate coursework covers a variety of topics dealing with the principles of real estate work, including contract and agency law, contract forms, and real estate financing.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Take your state’s licensing exam.\", \"描述\": \"Every state has an exam that you need to pass in order to receive your license. Check with your individual state’s licensing office to find out when and how you will take the exam, and what materials you are required to bring.\\nExams contain questions that cover information related to both state and national real estate laws. California’s exam covers several broad areas that demonstrate an understanding of the linguistic and mathematical skills of real estate, knowledge of the profession’s practices, and recognition of the agent’s obligation to a client and other ethical practices. The state also points out that these are all potential topics, and the exam will not cover all of them, only a selection.\\nThe point of the exam is to show you have mastered the minimum amount information needed to understand the real estate process. Because there is a lot to the process, it is better to take the exam shortly after finishing the course.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Join a brokerage.\", \"描述\": \"These are the businesses in which real estate agents work, and working with one is a requirement. If you want to practice as a real estate agent, you will want to get in contact with one before you finishing coursework. That way, you will have somewhere to start working once you are certified. Even if you decide to go independent as an agent, you will still need contact with a broker to complete transactions.\\nYou can find employment with a broker through a variety of means. Many post agent openings through employment pages in newspapers and internet job sites, as well as on their own website. In addition, larger brokerages give you the opportunity to apply for an interview to see what is available.\\nSome brokerages will require you to take additional coursework and continuing education to further your development while you are working for them. Remember that the state requirements are only the minimum, and if your brokerage is a good one, they may expect more. Make sure you discuss those requirements and are prepared to meet them before signing up.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Starting Your Company\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Become a broker.\", \"描述\": \"In order to strike out on your own as a business, you will need to become a broker. State requirements for becoming a broker vary, but they generally involve several years of experience as an agent, continuing education coursework, and passing a broker examination.\\nFor example, in New York, you must have at least 2 years of experience as a licensed salesperson, or 3 years in the general real estate field. You must complete a 45-hour real estate broker class, then pass a state-administered qualifying exam. If you are not a licensed agent already, you will also need to complete the 75-hour qualifying salesperson course.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find your niche.\", \"描述\": \"Like any new business, you will need a niche to get started and find new customers. Consider what kind of real estate you want to see, as well as different customer bases you are hoping to serve. \\nOne good rule of thumb, especially when you are getting started, is to look for niches you already know. These can be areas you have worked in before, or things you are familiar with through your own personal life. This will give you an advantage in marketing your business to certain types of property owners without much new research. For example, if you have previously worked in the hotel industry, you will be able to speak to the concerns of hotel owners in a way that other real estate professionals cannot.\\nAnother place to look is finding something you love, and look for a niche to serve similar people. You may not know everything about real estate in that area, but you’ll probably have some background into what people are looking for. If you like spending time outdoors, you probably have already thought about the things you would look for in a property that would aid in hunting, farming, or other similar activities. It will be much easier to learn more about that type of property, and market your skills to potential customers, if you are interested in the topic.\\nIt is better to find a niche rather than try to be a “one size fits all” company. This will help you target your marketing, and prevent you from taking on clients whose needs are too diverse.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create your business plan\", \"描述\": \"If you are going into business independently, you will need a plan to help establish your structure and explain your goals to potential investors and employees. Describe the market you intend to reach and how you plan to target them.\\nAs your business will eventually expand to hire more agents, you’ll want to make sure your plan mentions them. Be sure to explain how you intend to recruit and train them, as well as how you intend to keep them.\\nRemember to be clear about your mission statement and goals. Your mission statement should be brief, and quickly explain what you do and how you intend to do it. Your goals need to be clear and measurable, and have definitive time frames for achieving them.\\nA real estate business plan needs to consider the number of clients you will need to reach in order to reach your goals. Remembering that not all of your contacts will lead to sales, multiply your expected sales by 2 (3 if you are a relatively inexperienced seller) to account for the sales you won’t make. Dividing this number by 40 gives you the number of new clients you will need to acquire each week.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Register the business in your state.\", \"描述\": \"Every state has a different office and requirements for registering a new real estate company. In Florida, for example, you must fill out a specific form (Form DBPR-RE 7), pay a fee, and meet certain requirements regarding the structure of your business and the roles of your employees.\\nSome cities and counties will have additional requirements and fees. For example, in San Francisco, you will need to register with the city office, pay a fee based on the type and amount of business you do in the city, and provide information on your business’ legal structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get tax information.\", \"描述\": \"Your business will need to pay taxes, so you will need tax identification information from federal and state offices. This information should be available through the appropriate taxation offices.\\nGet an Employer Identification Number (EIN) from the IRS. You can apply through the IRS website, or you can fax or mail a completed SS-4 form. Filing online will get you an EIN immediately, while the mailed or faxed form should return a number in about four business days. Filing for an EIN is free.\\nWhen you incorporate as a business, and register in your state, you should receive a state-level tax identification number. Each state has different obligations and requirements, so make sure you know your state's relevant laws.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Hire staff.\", \"描述\": \"You can run an independent real estate business by yourself, but if you want to grow you’ll need additional employees. This doesn’t just mean agents, but assistants and other staff to help keep the business running smoothly.\\nThe most obvious hire is new agents. You can consider older, more established agents, who may be able to come with their own clients. They will also probably command a higher salary. You can also look at newer agents, who will cost less, but also require training and experience. Since a lot of real estate business is done offsite, and outside of regular business hours, good real estate agents should be hard-working, independent agents who can relate well to your customer base without your presence.\\nYou should take an active role in training and improving your agents. You’ll want to make sure they are all doing consistent, quality work as part of building your brand. Some of the best ones will eventually want to leave. While you may be able to encourage some to stay, you should be willing to let them leave to pursue their dreams of independent success.\\nOther aspects of your business like taxes and payroll are every bit as important as the actual real estate work, and you need to make sure they are taken care of professionally. Better to hire an accountant than have you or one of your agents take on that task in addition to their regular job.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tell others that you have started a business.\", \"描述\": \"Use your existing network of friends and family as well as clients. If they don’t know you’ve started out on your own, how will they know to look for you? \\n\\n Advertise. Find ways to get your name out there. Consider the type of audience you want to reach, and the mediums that are most useful for getting their attention. Because of the variety of people searching for real estate, both online and traditional print forms are likely to be useful for getting your business out there. If you are worried about how advertising will affect your bottom line, consider different ways to promote your business for free.\\nNot all of the people you contact will need your services, at least right away. This will start getting the word out, and let them think of you when they do need to get involved with real estate.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Ask for referrals.\", \"描述\": \"Real estate can be a very personal business, so don’t be afraid to use your current clients to drum up more businesses. If you’ve done a good job, they will be more likely to tell others, giving you a head start on getting additional clients.\\nThe best time to ask for referrals is right after you have closed a sale or provided a major service to a client. Your client will be in a good mood, and more likely to help. Plus, doing it sooner could jeopardize a sale.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Create a customer database.\", \"描述\": \"As you expand your reach, it will be helpful to create a database of all your customers, and information about them. This information should be put into a shared database so that all of your employees can reference it.\\nWhen you build the database, you should include as much important information as you can about each customer. Remember what kind of things they were looking for in property, who they might know, and any other information that might be useful in staying connected with them and building your network.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Act like a manager.\", \"描述\": \"This is more of a psychological step than a physical one. Once you have your own business, you will have less time to spend on the work of an agent, buying and selling property. If anything, you will probably only be stepping in on sales to resolve issues, not initiating work. Make sure to take the time to manage the business, and trust your agents to manage your relationships and property transfers.\\nCreate a set of standards and best practices for your employees to follow. These can be steps to working with clients or reaching out to new customers that everyone in the business will know and follow. This will help create consistency across your business, and allow you to think ahead rather than try to micromanage each transaction.\\nGive yourself tasks to accomplish. If you are the manager, you will need to be proactive about your workload. Rather than focusing on closing sales, think about ways you want to attract new clients, or better promote your business. Review your business’ activity, and try to find ways to make it more efficient. You should not be waiting for things to come up so you can resolve them.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Expanding Your Business\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a business network.\", \"描述\": \"Join local organizations of real estate agents, or other business professionals like the Chamber of Commerce. In addition to expanding your potential client base, you will also be able to work with others in your field to better understand local market conditions. \\nJoin the National Associate of Realtors. This is a national organization of real estate agents that helps to drive the profession. Its members set a code of ethics, and will provide associations that can increase your knowledge of national and local industry conditions. To become a Realtor, you need to take additional coursework and demonstrate skills in a specific area of real estate. Some of the NAR’s listed specializations include knowledge on green (eco-friendly) real estate and real estate technology, or dealing with specific customer bases such as seniors, minorities, or military relocation.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Explore your market.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re in real estate, you know that location matters. Make sure you know the market you are working in, and are keeping track of the changes. You may notice new niches to start on, or find that your niche is closing in your neighborhood. Staying ahead of these trends will help you to avoid trouble and keep your business growing.\\nLook at population and business trends in your area. New businesses opening means new people, many of whom will be looking to buy homes. On the other hand, if the population is older, you’ll have more people wanting to sell.\\nSocial media relationships with your customers are another good way to notice market trends. Always remember to listen to your clients, and don’t be afraid to engage your customers about things they see in the neighborhood.\\nKeep an eye out for foreclosures, auctions, or other property sales. Even in a strong market, these kinds of things happen. Someone’s misfortune could be your economic opportunity.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create an internet presence.\", \"描述\": \"For a personal business like real estate, having a presence that people can access easily is vitally important. In addition to your own website, there are many social media sites that can provide platforms to reach customers and receive real time feedback.\\nMake sure you have a website that includes basic information about your business and the customers you want to reach. Make sure it includes current information on your location and contact information.\\nTwitter is an excellent resource for a real estate business. Create a handle that reflects your business name or what you do. Make sure to use your tweets to drive traffic back to your website and other social media platforms, including links back to new things you have like blog posts. Twitter is a good way to highlight outside information or links that may be of interest to your clients, even if you didn’t write them.\\nMake sure you have a strong online presence on other social media sites like LinkedIn, Facebook, and Google+, as well as service review sites like Angie’s List.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Hire additional staff.\", \"描述\": \"As your company grows, you may want to hire additional agents and brokers. With a bigger staff, you may need to hire for offices such as human resource and payroll services.\\nAs you expand, make sure you keep track of your business’ and employees’ tax information. Make sure your workers fill out both the I-9 Form (for employment eligibility) and W-4 Form (for taxation). Keep all your employees' tax forms filed for easy reference.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"This is a sales business, and you won’t sell to everyone. Remember not to take rejection personally, and you’ll be able to get past it to find the people who really want what you are selling.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,502 |
How to Build a Recording Booth
|
1. Planning the Booth
1-1. Choose a corner of an existing room to build your recording booth in.
Select a corner of a room where you want to build your recording booth so you only have to construct 2 walls. Pick a corner with exterior-facing walls if possible because they are generally thicker and more sound-proof.
This applies to building a rectangular recording booth from the ground up. You will need to have basic knowledge of carpentry including framing and drywalling in order to build the booth. If you don’t have the tools or know-how to do it yourself, hire a contractor to build the booth for you.
Make sure the room you select has a solid floor as well. For instance, a ground floor or a basement is a good choice. A room on an upper floor is not ideal as these floors are not as stable, which can be bad for recording if the floor vibrates or makes creaking noises.
1-2. Select a corner with an existing light fixture or outlet if possible.
Build the booth around an existing light fixture if you can to provide light inside the booth without the added work of installing a new fixture in the ceiling. Construct the booth in a corner with an existing wall outlet to provide more sources of electricity in the booth that you can plug a lamp or audio equipment into.
If building the booth around an existing light fixture isn’t an option, you can run some LED lighting strips around the ceiling and floor of the booth for light.
1-3. Measure the room and find the studs in the corner walls.
Use a tape measure to measure the length, width, and height of the room and write down the measurements. Use a stud finder to locate the studs in the 2 walls of the corner that you plan to build the booth in and mark their positions on the wall with a pencil.
You can draw a rough sketch of the room and write down the measurements and stud positions if it’s easier for you to visualize the booth that way.
1-4. Make the booth a size that fits in the room and lines up with wall stud locations.
Plan for 1 short wall and 1 longer wall, of about 1.5 times the length of the short wall, to make a rectangular booth. Make the walls long enough that they will line up with studs in the existing walls to screw them into.
A good standard size for a rectangular recording booth is 4 ft (1.2 m) by 6 ft (1.8 m). However, adjust the size based on the space you have available and the positions of the studs in your walls.
Think about the kind of recording you want to do when planning the size of the booth as well. For example, a 4 ft (1.2 m) by 6 ft (1.8 m) booth is best suited to solo vocalists or acoustic artists, or maybe 2-person bands. If you want to be able to record a larger band, you might want to think about converting an entire room into a recording studio rather than building a booth.
2. Constructing the Frame
2-1. Buy a door for your recording booth and note down the measurements.
Pick out and purchase a door before you construct the frame. You will use the measurements to build a rough opening for the door into 1 of the wall frames.
A door with a glass window at the top or even a door that is mostly glass is a good option for a recording booth so you can allow some light into the booth and have visibility between the booth and the surrounding room.
2-2. Construct the frames
Build the shorter wall and the longer wall out of 2 in (5.1 cm) by 4 in (10 cm) pieces of lumber and screw the pieces together using 4 in (10 cm) wood screws and a power drill. Make the walls as tall as the room’s ceiling height, which is usually about 8–9 ft (2.4–2.7 m).
For example, if your recording booth is going to be 4 ft (1.2 m) by 6 ft (1.8 m), build 1 wall that is 4 ft (1.2 m) long and 1 that is 6 ft (1.8 m) long.
You can either cut the lumber to size yourself or have it cut for you at a home improvement center or lumber yard.
2-3. Build a rough opening for the door into 1 of the walls.
Construct a door frame that is 2 in (5.1 cm) wider than the width of the door and 2 in (5.1 cm) taller than the height of the door. Make it out of 2 in (5.1 cm) by 4 in (10 cm) lumber as with the rest of the wall frames.
For example, if the door is a standard 80 in (200 cm) by 36 in (91 cm) size, make the rough opening 82 in (210 cm) by 38 in (97 cm).
Note that this step must be done simultaneously with building the wall frames.
2-4. Screw the frames into studs in the existing corner walls and into the floor.
Stand up the longer wall in place, lining it up carefully with the stud in the wall that you planned for, then fasten it to the stud using 4 in (10 cm) wood screws and a power drill. Repeat this for the shorter wall and screw the 2 wall frames together where they meet. Screw the bottoms of the frames into the floor as well.
Have someone help you hold the walls up and steady while you drive the screws into place.
If the floor of the room is a standard wooden floor, use wood screws to secure the frame to the floor. If you are building your booth somewhere like a garage or basement with a cement floor, use masonry screws.
2-5. Attach electrical boxes for an audio outlet and electrical outlet to the frame.
Nail or screw 1 electrical box for the electrical outlet to a beam of the frame, about 12–18 in (30–46 cm) from the floor. Attach another electrical box for the audio cable outlet 1 or 2 beams over.
Make sure to check local electrical regulations before you install the electrical boxes. If you aren’t sure, consult a licensed electrician.
Unless you have experience with electrical work, it’s best to get an electrician to do the actual wiring for you. You can go ahead and install the electrical boxes on the frame if you want, but have a licensed electrician finish the wiring work.
3. Insulating, Drywalling, and Painting the Walls
3-1. Stuff R-19 fiberglass insulation between the studs of the booth’s walls.
Cut pieces to fit between the studs from a roll of R-19 fiberglass insulation using a utility knife. Fill in all the spaces between studs with the insulation.
Fiberglass insulation comes in rolls that are 16 in (41 cm) wide, the standard width between wall studs, so it will fit perfectly between the studs and stay in place.
You can buy special soundproofing insulation instead of standard fiberglass insulation if your budget allows for it. However, fiberglass insulation tends to work just as well and is much more affordable.
If you want to install fiberglass insulation for an unfinished wall, insert and fasten the sheets.
You can use a hammer tacker stapler.
When working with fiberglass, put talcum powder or baby powder on your forearms and hands. It will prevent the fiberglass from accessing your pores, and you will not feel itchy.
3-2. Hang drywall
Cut pieces of drywall to fit the walls, with holes for the electrical boxes, and attach them to the frames using drywall screws and an electric drill. Cover the drywall with 3 thin layers of drywall mud, letting each layer dry for 24 hours and sanding it smooth before applying the next coat.
You can hire a drywall contractor to complete this part of the job for you if you don’t want to deal with all the cutting, hanging, and mudding yourself.
3-3. Paint the walls a color of your choice.
Use a paint roller to apply a coat of primer to both the interior and exterior walls. Wait until the primer dries, then paint over it with 1-2 coats of wall paint.
You might want to match the exterior wall paint to the color of the walls you built the booth in so it looks more like part of the room. However, you could paint it a different color if you want it to stand out as an accent.
4. Adding the Door and Soundproofing the Booth
4-1. Hang the door
Fit the door into the frame you built for it in 1 of the walls. Mount the door to the frame using its provided hinges, hardware, and screws.
If it is too difficult for you to hang the door properly yourself, hire a carpenter to do it for you.
4-2. Mount strips of wood on the inside of the door frame to create door stops.
Close the door so it is flush with the outside wall, then mark the position of the inside edge of the door all the way around the inside of the door frame using a pencil. Cut pieces of 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) lumber to fit around the sides of the frame, then nail them into place with the edges lined up along the marks you made on the inside of the frame.
The door stops will ensure the door closes properly as well as help you soundproof the booth.
4-3. Stick rubberized foam tape weather stripping around the door stops.
Cut strips of rubberized foam tape weather stripping to the length of each strip of door stop. Press them against the edges of the door stops that face the door.
This will help soundproof the booth by ensuring a tight seal when the door is closed.
4-4. Apply acoustic foam tiles to all the inside surfaces of the booth.
Use an adhesive spray to mount acoustic foam tiles to all the inside walls of the booth, as well as the inside of the door. Cut the foam tiles to size as needed using a utility knife.
If your door has any glass in it, don’t cover up the glass with acoustic foam.
The foam tiles will help keep sound inside the recording booth to create good acoustics. This, along with the insulation inside the walls and the weather stripping around the door, means that your booth should now be pretty soundproof and ready to record!
Warnings
Always wear thick work gloves when you work with fiberglass insulation to protect your hands from glass slivers.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:59",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning the Booth\\n1-1. Choose a corner of an existing room to build your recording booth in.\\nSelect a corner of a room where you want to build your recording booth so you only have to construct 2 walls. Pick a corner with exterior-facing walls if possible because they are generally thicker and more sound-proof.\\nThis applies to building a rectangular recording booth from the ground up. You will need to have basic knowledge of carpentry including framing and drywalling in order to build the booth. If you don’t have the tools or know-how to do it yourself, hire a contractor to build the booth for you.\\nMake sure the room you select has a solid floor as well. For instance, a ground floor or a basement is a good choice. A room on an upper floor is not ideal as these floors are not as stable, which can be bad for recording if the floor vibrates or makes creaking noises.\\n1-2. Select a corner with an existing light fixture or outlet if possible.\\nBuild the booth around an existing light fixture if you can to provide light inside the booth without the added work of installing a new fixture in the ceiling. Construct the booth in a corner with an existing wall outlet to provide more sources of electricity in the booth that you can plug a lamp or audio equipment into.\\nIf building the booth around an existing light fixture isn’t an option, you can run some LED lighting strips around the ceiling and floor of the booth for light.\\n1-3. Measure the room and find the studs in the corner walls.\\nUse a tape measure to measure the length, width, and height of the room and write down the measurements. Use a stud finder to locate the studs in the 2 walls of the corner that you plan to build the booth in and mark their positions on the wall with a pencil.\\nYou can draw a rough sketch of the room and write down the measurements and stud positions if it’s easier for you to visualize the booth that way.\\n1-4. Make the booth a size that fits in the room and lines up with wall stud locations.\\nPlan for 1 short wall and 1 longer wall, of about 1.5 times the length of the short wall, to make a rectangular booth. Make the walls long enough that they will line up with studs in the existing walls to screw them into.\\nA good standard size for a rectangular recording booth is 4 ft (1.2 m) by 6 ft (1.8 m). However, adjust the size based on the space you have available and the positions of the studs in your walls.\\nThink about the kind of recording you want to do when planning the size of the booth as well. For example, a 4 ft (1.2 m) by 6 ft (1.8 m) booth is best suited to solo vocalists or acoustic artists, or maybe 2-person bands. If you want to be able to record a larger band, you might want to think about converting an entire room into a recording studio rather than building a booth.\\n2. Constructing the Frame\\n2-1. Buy a door for your recording booth and note down the measurements.\\nPick out and purchase a door before you construct the frame. You will use the measurements to build a rough opening for the door into 1 of the wall frames.\\nA door with a glass window at the top or even a door that is mostly glass is a good option for a recording booth so you can allow some light into the booth and have visibility between the booth and the surrounding room.\\n2-2. Construct the frames\\nBuild the shorter wall and the longer wall out of 2 in (5.1 cm) by 4 in (10 cm) pieces of lumber and screw the pieces together using 4 in (10 cm) wood screws and a power drill. Make the walls as tall as the room’s ceiling height, which is usually about 8–9 ft (2.4–2.7 m).\\nFor example, if your recording booth is going to be 4 ft (1.2 m) by 6 ft (1.8 m), build 1 wall that is 4 ft (1.2 m) long and 1 that is 6 ft (1.8 m) long.\\nYou can either cut the lumber to size yourself or have it cut for you at a home improvement center or lumber yard.\\n2-3. Build a rough opening for the door into 1 of the walls.\\nConstruct a door frame that is 2 in (5.1 cm) wider than the width of the door and 2 in (5.1 cm) taller than the height of the door. Make it out of 2 in (5.1 cm) by 4 in (10 cm) lumber as with the rest of the wall frames.\\nFor example, if the door is a standard 80 in (200 cm) by 36 in (91 cm) size, make the rough opening 82 in (210 cm) by 38 in (97 cm).\\nNote that this step must be done simultaneously with building the wall frames.\\n2-4. Screw the frames into studs in the existing corner walls and into the floor.\\nStand up the longer wall in place, lining it up carefully with the stud in the wall that you planned for, then fasten it to the stud using 4 in (10 cm) wood screws and a power drill. Repeat this for the shorter wall and screw the 2 wall frames together where they meet. Screw the bottoms of the frames into the floor as well.\\nHave someone help you hold the walls up and steady while you drive the screws into place.\\nIf the floor of the room is a standard wooden floor, use wood screws to secure the frame to the floor. If you are building your booth somewhere like a garage or basement with a cement floor, use masonry screws.\\n2-5. Attach electrical boxes for an audio outlet and electrical outlet to the frame.\\nNail or screw 1 electrical box for the electrical outlet to a beam of the frame, about 12–18 in (30–46 cm) from the floor. Attach another electrical box for the audio cable outlet 1 or 2 beams over.\\nMake sure to check local electrical regulations before you install the electrical boxes. If you aren’t sure, consult a licensed electrician.\\nUnless you have experience with electrical work, it’s best to get an electrician to do the actual wiring for you. You can go ahead and install the electrical boxes on the frame if you want, but have a licensed electrician finish the wiring work.\\n3. Insulating, Drywalling, and Painting the Walls\\n3-1. Stuff R-19 fiberglass insulation between the studs of the booth’s walls.\\nCut pieces to fit between the studs from a roll of R-19 fiberglass insulation using a utility knife. Fill in all the spaces between studs with the insulation.\\nFiberglass insulation comes in rolls that are 16 in (41 cm) wide, the standard width between wall studs, so it will fit perfectly between the studs and stay in place.\\nYou can buy special soundproofing insulation instead of standard fiberglass insulation if your budget allows for it. However, fiberglass insulation tends to work just as well and is much more affordable.\\nIf you want to install fiberglass insulation for an unfinished wall, insert and fasten the sheets.\\nYou can use a hammer tacker stapler.\\nWhen working with fiberglass, put talcum powder or baby powder on your forearms and hands. It will prevent the fiberglass from accessing your pores, and you will not feel itchy.\\n3-2. Hang drywall\\nCut pieces of drywall to fit the walls, with holes for the electrical boxes, and attach them to the frames using drywall screws and an electric drill. Cover the drywall with 3 thin layers of drywall mud, letting each layer dry for 24 hours and sanding it smooth before applying the next coat.\\nYou can hire a drywall contractor to complete this part of the job for you if you don’t want to deal with all the cutting, hanging, and mudding yourself.\\n3-3. Paint the walls a color of your choice.\\nUse a paint roller to apply a coat of primer to both the interior and exterior walls. Wait until the primer dries, then paint over it with 1-2 coats of wall paint.\\nYou might want to match the exterior wall paint to the color of the walls you built the booth in so it looks more like part of the room. However, you could paint it a different color if you want it to stand out as an accent.\\n4. Adding the Door and Soundproofing the Booth\\n4-1. Hang the door\\nFit the door into the frame you built for it in 1 of the walls. Mount the door to the frame using its provided hinges, hardware, and screws.\\nIf it is too difficult for you to hang the door properly yourself, hire a carpenter to do it for you.\\n4-2. Mount strips of wood on the inside of the door frame to create door stops.\\nClose the door so it is flush with the outside wall, then mark the position of the inside edge of the door all the way around the inside of the door frame using a pencil. Cut pieces of 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) lumber to fit around the sides of the frame, then nail them into place with the edges lined up along the marks you made on the inside of the frame.\\nThe door stops will ensure the door closes properly as well as help you soundproof the booth.\\n4-3. Stick rubberized foam tape weather stripping around the door stops.\\nCut strips of rubberized foam tape weather stripping to the length of each strip of door stop. Press them against the edges of the door stops that face the door.\\nThis will help soundproof the booth by ensuring a tight seal when the door is closed.\\n4-4. Apply acoustic foam tiles to all the inside surfaces of the booth.\\nUse an adhesive spray to mount acoustic foam tiles to all the inside walls of the booth, as well as the inside of the door. Cut the foam tiles to size as needed using a utility knife.\\n\\nIf your door has any glass in it, don’t cover up the glass with acoustic foam.\\nThe foam tiles will help keep sound inside the recording booth to create good acoustics. This, along with the insulation inside the walls and the weather stripping around the door, means that your booth should now be pretty soundproof and ready to record!\\nWarnings\\nAlways wear thick work gloves when you work with fiberglass insulation to protect your hands from glass slivers.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A homemade recording booth can be a great option when you want to record vocals or acoustic instruments. In order to build a recording booth yourself, you’ll need some general knowledge of carpentry and experience with basic home improvement projects. However, with the right tools and know-how you can complete this project in a week or two. Think of building a recording booth as adding a small room to your home, with a lot of the same steps like framing the walls and putting up drywall. Feel free to contract out any parts of the project you don’t feel comfortable tackling yourself.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the Booth\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a corner of an existing room to build your recording booth in.\", \"描述\": \"Select a corner of a room where you want to build your recording booth so you only have to construct 2 walls. Pick a corner with exterior-facing walls if possible because they are generally thicker and more sound-proof.\\nThis applies to building a rectangular recording booth from the ground up. You will need to have basic knowledge of carpentry including framing and drywalling in order to build the booth. If you don’t have the tools or know-how to do it yourself, hire a contractor to build the booth for you.\\nMake sure the room you select has a solid floor as well. For instance, a ground floor or a basement is a good choice. A room on an upper floor is not ideal as these floors are not as stable, which can be bad for recording if the floor vibrates or makes creaking noises.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Select a corner with an existing light fixture or outlet if possible.\", \"描述\": \"Build the booth around an existing light fixture if you can to provide light inside the booth without the added work of installing a new fixture in the ceiling. Construct the booth in a corner with an existing wall outlet to provide more sources of electricity in the booth that you can plug a lamp or audio equipment into.\\nIf building the booth around an existing light fixture isn’t an option, you can run some LED lighting strips around the ceiling and floor of the booth for light.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure the room and find the studs in the corner walls.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tape measure to measure the length, width, and height of the room and write down the measurements. Use a stud finder to locate the studs in the 2 walls of the corner that you plan to build the booth in and mark their positions on the wall with a pencil.\\nYou can draw a rough sketch of the room and write down the measurements and stud positions if it’s easier for you to visualize the booth that way.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make the booth a size that fits in the room and lines up with wall stud locations.\", \"描述\": \"Plan for 1 short wall and 1 longer wall, of about 1.5 times the length of the short wall, to make a rectangular booth. Make the walls long enough that they will line up with studs in the existing walls to screw them into.\\nA good standard size for a rectangular recording booth is 4 ft (1.2 m) by 6 ft (1.8 m). However, adjust the size based on the space you have available and the positions of the studs in your walls.\\nThink about the kind of recording you want to do when planning the size of the booth as well. For example, a 4 ft (1.2 m) by 6 ft (1.8 m) booth is best suited to solo vocalists or acoustic artists, or maybe 2-person bands. If you want to be able to record a larger band, you might want to think about converting an entire room into a recording studio rather than building a booth.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy a door for your recording booth and note down the measurements.\", \"描述\": \"Pick out and purchase a door before you construct the frame. You will use the measurements to build a rough opening for the door into 1 of the wall frames.\\nA door with a glass window at the top or even a door that is mostly glass is a good option for a recording booth so you can allow some light into the booth and have visibility between the booth and the surrounding room.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Construct the frames\", \"描述\": \"Build the shorter wall and the longer wall out of 2 in (5.1 cm) by 4 in (10 cm) pieces of lumber and screw the pieces together using 4 in (10 cm) wood screws and a power drill. Make the walls as tall as the room’s ceiling height, which is usually about 8–9 ft (2.4–2.7 m).\\nFor example, if your recording booth is going to be 4 ft (1.2 m) by 6 ft (1.8 m), build 1 wall that is 4 ft (1.2 m) long and 1 that is 6 ft (1.8 m) long.\\nYou can either cut the lumber to size yourself or have it cut for you at a home improvement center or lumber yard.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a rough opening for the door into 1 of the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Construct a door frame that is 2 in (5.1 cm) wider than the width of the door and 2 in (5.1 cm) taller than the height of the door. Make it out of 2 in (5.1 cm) by 4 in (10 cm) lumber as with the rest of the wall frames.\\nFor example, if the door is a standard 80 in (200 cm) by 36 in (91 cm) size, make the rough opening 82 in (210 cm) by 38 in (97 cm).\\nNote that this step must be done simultaneously with building the wall frames.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw the frames into studs in the existing corner walls and into the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Stand up the longer wall in place, lining it up carefully with the stud in the wall that you planned for, then fasten it to the stud using 4 in (10 cm) wood screws and a power drill. Repeat this for the shorter wall and screw the 2 wall frames together where they meet. Screw the bottoms of the frames into the floor as well.\\nHave someone help you hold the walls up and steady while you drive the screws into place.\\nIf the floor of the room is a standard wooden floor, use wood screws to secure the frame to the floor. If you are building your booth somewhere like a garage or basement with a cement floor, use masonry screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach electrical boxes for an audio outlet and electrical outlet to the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Nail or screw 1 electrical box for the electrical outlet to a beam of the frame, about 12–18 in (30–46 cm) from the floor. Attach another electrical box for the audio cable outlet 1 or 2 beams over.\\nMake sure to check local electrical regulations before you install the electrical boxes. If you aren’t sure, consult a licensed electrician.\\nUnless you have experience with electrical work, it’s best to get an electrician to do the actual wiring for you. You can go ahead and install the electrical boxes on the frame if you want, but have a licensed electrician finish the wiring work.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insulating, Drywalling, and Painting the Walls\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Stuff R-19 fiberglass insulation between the studs of the booth’s walls.\", \"描述\": \"Cut pieces to fit between the studs from a roll of R-19 fiberglass insulation using a utility knife. Fill in all the spaces between studs with the insulation.\\nFiberglass insulation comes in rolls that are 16 in (41 cm) wide, the standard width between wall studs, so it will fit perfectly between the studs and stay in place.\\nYou can buy special soundproofing insulation instead of standard fiberglass insulation if your budget allows for it. However, fiberglass insulation tends to work just as well and is much more affordable.\\nIf you want to install fiberglass insulation for an unfinished wall, insert and fasten the sheets.\\nYou can use a hammer tacker stapler.\\nWhen working with fiberglass, put talcum powder or baby powder on your forearms and hands. It will prevent the fiberglass from accessing your pores, and you will not feel itchy.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hang drywall\", \"描述\": \"Cut pieces of drywall to fit the walls, with holes for the electrical boxes, and attach them to the frames using drywall screws and an electric drill. Cover the drywall with 3 thin layers of drywall mud, letting each layer dry for 24 hours and sanding it smooth before applying the next coat.\\nYou can hire a drywall contractor to complete this part of the job for you if you don’t want to deal with all the cutting, hanging, and mudding yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint the walls a color of your choice.\", \"描述\": \"Use a paint roller to apply a coat of primer to both the interior and exterior walls. Wait until the primer dries, then paint over it with 1-2 coats of wall paint.\\nYou might want to match the exterior wall paint to the color of the walls you built the booth in so it looks more like part of the room. However, you could paint it a different color if you want it to stand out as an accent.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Adding the Door and Soundproofing the Booth\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Hang the door\", \"描述\": \"Fit the door into the frame you built for it in 1 of the walls. Mount the door to the frame using its provided hinges, hardware, and screws.\\nIf it is too difficult for you to hang the door properly yourself, hire a carpenter to do it for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mount strips of wood on the inside of the door frame to create door stops.\", \"描述\": \"Close the door so it is flush with the outside wall, then mark the position of the inside edge of the door all the way around the inside of the door frame using a pencil. Cut pieces of 1 in (2.5 cm) by 2 in (5.1 cm) lumber to fit around the sides of the frame, then nail them into place with the edges lined up along the marks you made on the inside of the frame.\\nThe door stops will ensure the door closes properly as well as help you soundproof the booth.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stick rubberized foam tape weather stripping around the door stops.\", \"描述\": \"Cut strips of rubberized foam tape weather stripping to the length of each strip of door stop. Press them against the edges of the door stops that face the door.\\nThis will help soundproof the booth by ensuring a tight seal when the door is closed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Apply acoustic foam tiles to all the inside surfaces of the booth.\", \"描述\": \"Use an adhesive spray to mount acoustic foam tiles to all the inside walls of the booth, as well as the inside of the door. Cut the foam tiles to size as needed using a utility knife.\\n\\nIf your door has any glass in it, don’t cover up the glass with acoustic foam.\\nThe foam tiles will help keep sound inside the recording booth to create good acoustics. This, along with the insulation inside the walls and the weather stripping around the door, means that your booth should now be pretty soundproof and ready to record!\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Always wear thick work gloves when you work with fiberglass insulation to protect your hands from glass slivers.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,503 |
How to Build a Relationship with Your Snake
|
1. Letting Your Snake Get Used to You
1-1. Leave your snake alone for the first week you have it.
When snakes are first introduced into a new home, it takes them some time to acclimate to their environment. Leave the snake in its tank while it takes the time to adjust. After a week, you can start interacting with your snake.
If you’ve waited a week and your snake is still acting aggressive, wait for 3-4 more days before trying again.
1-2. Rearrange your snake’s tank occasionally so it gets used to your presence.
Move its water dish, home, and any branches around the tank so your snake gets comfortable with you in its environment. Be careful not to touch your snake while you’re moving things. Use slow and deliberate movements so you don’t scare your snake. This will help it learn that you aren’t going to cause any harm.
If your snake makes an S-shape with its neck while it’s looking at you, it may be getting into striking position. Pull your hand out slowly so your snake doesn’t try to bite you.
1-3. Hold your hand in front of your snake’s head so it gets used to you.
Snakes recognize things by smell, so your snake needs to get comfortable around your scent. Try holding your hand about 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) away from your snake’s head so it can smell you. If it gets into striking position, slowly move your hand out of the way. If your snake doesn’t react, try moving your hand closer.
If you’re worried about bites and your snake is aggressive, consider wearing thick gloves as a layer of extra protection.
1-4. Touch your snake while it’s still inside the tank.
Once your snake is acclimated to its new environment, try lightly touching the back of its body near the tail. Put your hand in from the side rather than directly over the snake so it’s more comfortable. Slowly work closer to touching close behind its head.
Avoid trying to touch the snake’s head right away since it might get scared and bite.
Never try to grab your snake by its tail since it will most likely try to spin around and strike you.
1-5. Continue familiarizing yourself with your snake for 1 week.
Rearrange the tank once per day, and hold your hand in front of your snake 3-4 times at different times. Over a week’s time, your snake will get used to your presence and is less likely to strike or bite you when you try to handle it.
If your snake is still acting aggressive, don’t try to handle it until it gets calmer.
2. Handling Your Snake
2-1. Wash your hands before handling your snake.
Thoroughly wash your hands right before you reach into the tank. That way, you don’t spread any germs to your snake when you’re about to hold it.
2-2. Scoop your snake up by the middle of its body.
Slide your hand underneath your snake’s body halfway between its head and tail. Squeeze your snake lightly until you have a firm grip around its body. Slowly and confidently pick the snake up and out of its enclosure, using your other hand to support the rest of its body.
Don’t try to act nervous or timid while you pick up your snake because it will be able to sense your body language. Instead, stay consistent and firm so your snake gets used to being handled.
2-3. Intertwine the back third of your snake around your arm or fingers.
While supporting the middle of the snake’s body with one hand, let the back end rest on top of your arm and in your hand. Wrap larger snakes around your arm and smaller snakes in between your fingers so it doesn’t flail around while you’re holding them.
If you have a constrictor snake, such as a ball python or a boa, let it wrap around your arm so it feels comfortable.
If you have a thinner snake, like a garter or corn snake, keep the back of the snake wrapped between your fingers so it's less likely to slither away.
If your snake is larger than 4 ft (1.2 m) long, have another person help hold it for every additional 3 ft (0.91 m).
2-4. Point the snake’s head away from your body.
Snakes may try to strike anything that moves quickly in front of their heads, so avoid keeping your snake pointed towards your body when you first start handling it. Guide the snake’s head in the opposite direction by pushing on its neck with your arm. Use slow and confident movements so your snake gets used to the behavior.
As your snake gets more comfortable around you, it’s okay to let your snake look in your direction. Just make sure to watch for any striking behavior.
3. Spending Time with Your Snake
3-1. Sit near your snake’s tank often so it can get used to your scent.
When you aren’t handling your snake, try to spend time in front of its tank so it stays familiar with your scent. This will help your snake grow accustomed to you so it will know not to strike while you’re around.
The more familiar you are with your snake, the less aggressive it will be over time. Make sure to spend at least a few minutes near your tank each day.
3-2. Take your snake out of its tank 4-5 times a week.
Try to handle your snake as much as you can so it gets used to being around you. Aim to hold your snake for at least 20-30 minutes each day so it has a chance to spend time with you.
Avoid handling your snake 2-3 days after you feed it since it will need time to digest.
3-3. Let your snake slither around the area near you when you hold it.
When you hold your snake, set it on your lap so it has a chance to slither around you. Make sure to keep it supervised so it doesn’t slither away from you or get lost in your home.
This works best for large snakes like pythons and boas. Smaller snakes move faster and may get away easier.
3-4. Keep your snake on your lap while you’re relaxing.
While you’re playing video games, watching TV, or reading a book, keep your snake on your lap so it can spend time with you. Make sure not to make any sudden or fast movements and stay quiet so your snake doesn’t get scared.
Keep your snake out of its tank for only about 30 minutes at a time so it doesn’t lose any body heat.
3-5. Give your snake new branches and objects to climb in its tank.
Change the environment inside of your snake’s tank so it has new places to explore and hide. After you’ve finished adding the new enrichment to your tank, put your snake back inside and let it slither around while you watch.
Warnings
Make sure constrictor snakes, like pythons or boas, do not wrap around your neck. It may start to constrict and could choke you.
If you have snakes that are larger than 4 feet (1.2 m), have another person help you when you want to handle them.
Avoid handling any venomous snakes if you have them.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:59",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Letting Your Snake Get Used to You\\n1-1. Leave your snake alone for the first week you have it.\\nWhen snakes are first introduced into a new home, it takes them some time to acclimate to their environment. Leave the snake in its tank while it takes the time to adjust. After a week, you can start interacting with your snake.\\nIf you’ve waited a week and your snake is still acting aggressive, wait for 3-4 more days before trying again.\\n1-2. Rearrange your snake’s tank occasionally so it gets used to your presence.\\nMove its water dish, home, and any branches around the tank so your snake gets comfortable with you in its environment. Be careful not to touch your snake while you’re moving things. Use slow and deliberate movements so you don’t scare your snake. This will help it learn that you aren’t going to cause any harm.\\nIf your snake makes an S-shape with its neck while it’s looking at you, it may be getting into striking position. Pull your hand out slowly so your snake doesn’t try to bite you.\\n1-3. Hold your hand in front of your snake’s head so it gets used to you.\\nSnakes recognize things by smell, so your snake needs to get comfortable around your scent. Try holding your hand about 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) away from your snake’s head so it can smell you. If it gets into striking position, slowly move your hand out of the way. If your snake doesn’t react, try moving your hand closer.\\nIf you’re worried about bites and your snake is aggressive, consider wearing thick gloves as a layer of extra protection.\\n1-4. Touch your snake while it’s still inside the tank.\\nOnce your snake is acclimated to its new environment, try lightly touching the back of its body near the tail. Put your hand in from the side rather than directly over the snake so it’s more comfortable. Slowly work closer to touching close behind its head.\\nAvoid trying to touch the snake’s head right away since it might get scared and bite.\\nNever try to grab your snake by its tail since it will most likely try to spin around and strike you.\\n1-5. Continue familiarizing yourself with your snake for 1 week.\\nRearrange the tank once per day, and hold your hand in front of your snake 3-4 times at different times. Over a week’s time, your snake will get used to your presence and is less likely to strike or bite you when you try to handle it.\\nIf your snake is still acting aggressive, don’t try to handle it until it gets calmer.\\n2. Handling Your Snake\\n2-1. Wash your hands before handling your snake.\\nThoroughly wash your hands right before you reach into the tank. That way, you don’t spread any germs to your snake when you’re about to hold it.\\n2-2. Scoop your snake up by the middle of its body.\\nSlide your hand underneath your snake’s body halfway between its head and tail. Squeeze your snake lightly until you have a firm grip around its body. Slowly and confidently pick the snake up and out of its enclosure, using your other hand to support the rest of its body.\\nDon’t try to act nervous or timid while you pick up your snake because it will be able to sense your body language. Instead, stay consistent and firm so your snake gets used to being handled.\\n2-3. Intertwine the back third of your snake around your arm or fingers.\\nWhile supporting the middle of the snake’s body with one hand, let the back end rest on top of your arm and in your hand. Wrap larger snakes around your arm and smaller snakes in between your fingers so it doesn’t flail around while you’re holding them.\\nIf you have a constrictor snake, such as a ball python or a boa, let it wrap around your arm so it feels comfortable.\\nIf you have a thinner snake, like a garter or corn snake, keep the back of the snake wrapped between your fingers so it's less likely to slither away.\\nIf your snake is larger than 4 ft (1.2 m) long, have another person help hold it for every additional 3 ft (0.91 m).\\n2-4. Point the snake’s head away from your body.\\nSnakes may try to strike anything that moves quickly in front of their heads, so avoid keeping your snake pointed towards your body when you first start handling it. Guide the snake’s head in the opposite direction by pushing on its neck with your arm. Use slow and confident movements so your snake gets used to the behavior.\\nAs your snake gets more comfortable around you, it’s okay to let your snake look in your direction. Just make sure to watch for any striking behavior.\\n3. Spending Time with Your Snake\\n3-1. Sit near your snake’s tank often so it can get used to your scent.\\nWhen you aren’t handling your snake, try to spend time in front of its tank so it stays familiar with your scent. This will help your snake grow accustomed to you so it will know not to strike while you’re around.\\nThe more familiar you are with your snake, the less aggressive it will be over time. Make sure to spend at least a few minutes near your tank each day.\\n3-2. Take your snake out of its tank 4-5 times a week.\\nTry to handle your snake as much as you can so it gets used to being around you. Aim to hold your snake for at least 20-30 minutes each day so it has a chance to spend time with you.\\nAvoid handling your snake 2-3 days after you feed it since it will need time to digest.\\n3-3. Let your snake slither around the area near you when you hold it.\\nWhen you hold your snake, set it on your lap so it has a chance to slither around you. Make sure to keep it supervised so it doesn’t slither away from you or get lost in your home.\\nThis works best for large snakes like pythons and boas. Smaller snakes move faster and may get away easier.\\n3-4. Keep your snake on your lap while you’re relaxing.\\nWhile you’re playing video games, watching TV, or reading a book, keep your snake on your lap so it can spend time with you. Make sure not to make any sudden or fast movements and stay quiet so your snake doesn’t get scared.\\nKeep your snake out of its tank for only about 30 minutes at a time so it doesn’t lose any body heat.\\n3-5. Give your snake new branches and objects to climb in its tank.\\nChange the environment inside of your snake’s tank so it has new places to explore and hide. After you’ve finished adding the new enrichment to your tank, put your snake back inside and let it slither around while you watch.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure constrictor snakes, like pythons or boas, do not wrap around your neck. It may start to constrict and could choke you.\\nIf you have snakes that are larger than 4 feet (1.2 m), have another person help you when you want to handle them.\\nAvoid handling any venomous snakes if you have them.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Pet snakes make great low maintenance pets, but they don’t bond with their owner the same way a dog or cat would. If you want to make your snake comfortable with you, then all you need to do is let it be familiar with your presence and handle it often. The more time you spend with your snake, the more it will relax and enjoy being held!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Letting Your Snake Get Used to You\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Leave your snake alone for the first week you have it.\", \"描述\": \"When snakes are first introduced into a new home, it takes them some time to acclimate to their environment. Leave the snake in its tank while it takes the time to adjust. After a week, you can start interacting with your snake.\\nIf you’ve waited a week and your snake is still acting aggressive, wait for 3-4 more days before trying again.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Rearrange your snake’s tank occasionally so it gets used to your presence.\", \"描述\": \"Move its water dish, home, and any branches around the tank so your snake gets comfortable with you in its environment. Be careful not to touch your snake while you’re moving things. Use slow and deliberate movements so you don’t scare your snake. This will help it learn that you aren’t going to cause any harm.\\nIf your snake makes an S-shape with its neck while it’s looking at you, it may be getting into striking position. Pull your hand out slowly so your snake doesn’t try to bite you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hold your hand in front of your snake’s head so it gets used to you.\", \"描述\": \"Snakes recognize things by smell, so your snake needs to get comfortable around your scent. Try holding your hand about 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) away from your snake’s head so it can smell you. If it gets into striking position, slowly move your hand out of the way. If your snake doesn’t react, try moving your hand closer.\\nIf you’re worried about bites and your snake is aggressive, consider wearing thick gloves as a layer of extra protection.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Touch your snake while it’s still inside the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Once your snake is acclimated to its new environment, try lightly touching the back of its body near the tail. Put your hand in from the side rather than directly over the snake so it’s more comfortable. Slowly work closer to touching close behind its head.\\nAvoid trying to touch the snake’s head right away since it might get scared and bite.\\nNever try to grab your snake by its tail since it will most likely try to spin around and strike you.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Continue familiarizing yourself with your snake for 1 week.\", \"描述\": \"Rearrange the tank once per day, and hold your hand in front of your snake 3-4 times at different times. Over a week’s time, your snake will get used to your presence and is less likely to strike or bite you when you try to handle it.\\nIf your snake is still acting aggressive, don’t try to handle it until it gets calmer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Handling Your Snake\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wash your hands before handling your snake.\", \"描述\": \"Thoroughly wash your hands right before you reach into the tank. That way, you don’t spread any germs to your snake when you’re about to hold it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Scoop your snake up by the middle of its body.\", \"描述\": \"Slide your hand underneath your snake’s body halfway between its head and tail. Squeeze your snake lightly until you have a firm grip around its body. Slowly and confidently pick the snake up and out of its enclosure, using your other hand to support the rest of its body.\\nDon’t try to act nervous or timid while you pick up your snake because it will be able to sense your body language. Instead, stay consistent and firm so your snake gets used to being handled.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Intertwine the back third of your snake around your arm or fingers.\", \"描述\": \"While supporting the middle of the snake’s body with one hand, let the back end rest on top of your arm and in your hand. Wrap larger snakes around your arm and smaller snakes in between your fingers so it doesn’t flail around while you’re holding them.\\nIf you have a constrictor snake, such as a ball python or a boa, let it wrap around your arm so it feels comfortable.\\nIf you have a thinner snake, like a garter or corn snake, keep the back of the snake wrapped between your fingers so it's less likely to slither away.\\nIf your snake is larger than 4 ft (1.2 m) long, have another person help hold it for every additional 3 ft (0.91 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Point the snake’s head away from your body.\", \"描述\": \"Snakes may try to strike anything that moves quickly in front of their heads, so avoid keeping your snake pointed towards your body when you first start handling it. Guide the snake’s head in the opposite direction by pushing on its neck with your arm. Use slow and confident movements so your snake gets used to the behavior.\\nAs your snake gets more comfortable around you, it’s okay to let your snake look in your direction. Just make sure to watch for any striking behavior.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Spending Time with Your Snake\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sit near your snake’s tank often so it can get used to your scent.\", \"描述\": \"When you aren’t handling your snake, try to spend time in front of its tank so it stays familiar with your scent. This will help your snake grow accustomed to you so it will know not to strike while you’re around.\\nThe more familiar you are with your snake, the less aggressive it will be over time. Make sure to spend at least a few minutes near your tank each day.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take your snake out of its tank 4-5 times a week.\", \"描述\": \"Try to handle your snake as much as you can so it gets used to being around you. Aim to hold your snake for at least 20-30 minutes each day so it has a chance to spend time with you.\\nAvoid handling your snake 2-3 days after you feed it since it will need time to digest.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Let your snake slither around the area near you when you hold it.\", \"描述\": \"When you hold your snake, set it on your lap so it has a chance to slither around you. Make sure to keep it supervised so it doesn’t slither away from you or get lost in your home.\\nThis works best for large snakes like pythons and boas. Smaller snakes move faster and may get away easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep your snake on your lap while you’re relaxing.\", \"描述\": \"While you’re playing video games, watching TV, or reading a book, keep your snake on your lap so it can spend time with you. Make sure not to make any sudden or fast movements and stay quiet so your snake doesn’t get scared.\\nKeep your snake out of its tank for only about 30 minutes at a time so it doesn’t lose any body heat.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Give your snake new branches and objects to climb in its tank.\", \"描述\": \"Change the environment inside of your snake’s tank so it has new places to explore and hide. After you’ve finished adding the new enrichment to your tank, put your snake back inside and let it slither around while you watch.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure constrictor snakes, like pythons or boas, do not wrap around your neck. It may start to constrict and could choke you.\\n\", \"If you have snakes that are larger than 4 feet (1.2 m), have another person help you when you want to handle them.\\n\", \"Avoid handling any venomous snakes if you have them.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,504 |
How to Build a Remote Controlled Robot
|
1. Steps
1-1. Recognize what you will be building.
You are not going to be able to build a full sized, two-legged, humanoid robot that can do all your chores. Nor will you be building a robot with multiple claws that can reach out and pick up 100 pound weights. You will need to begin building a robot that will be able to go forward, backward, left, and right from you controlling it wirelessly. However, after you get the basics down and have this simple robot built, you can usually add and modify things on it. For example, a boom and bucket like a front end loader. You should usually go by the principle that no robot is ever finished. It can always be modified and made better.
1-2. Plan out your robot.
Before building your robot, even before ordering parts. You need to design your robot. For your first robot you should go with a simple design of just two servo motors on a flat piece of plastic. This design is really simple and usually leaves extra room to add extra things after it's built. Plan to build something about 15 cm. by 20 cm. For a robot this simple, you should be able to just draw it out on paper using a ruler. Draw it the same size on paper as it should be in real life, since the robot is so small. When you get into bigger, more complex robots, you should start to learn how to use CAD or a program similar to it, such as Google Sketchup.
1-3. Choose your parts.
It's still not time to order parts. But you should choose them now and know where to buy them. Try to order from as few sites as possible and you sometimes can save money on shipping. You will need a material for the chassis, two "servo" motors, a battery, a transmitter and a receiver.
Choosing a servo motor: To move the robot you will need to use motors. One motor will power one wheel and one for the other. This way you can use the simplest steering method, differential drive. This means to go forward both motors spin forward, to go backwards both motors spin backwards, and to turn one motor goes and one motor stays still. A servo motor is different than a basic DC motor because a servo motor is geared, can only turn 180 degrees, and can transmit data back on it's position. This project will be using servo motors because it's easier and you don't have to buy an expensive "speed controller" or a separate gear box. After you understand how to build a remote controlled robot, you may want to make another one (or modify the first one) to use DC motors, rather than servo motors. There are four basic things you need to worry about when buying servo motors. These are speed, torque, size/weight, and if they are 360 Modifiable. Since servo motors only turn 180 degrees, your robot would only be able to go forward a little bit. If the motor is 360 degree modifiable, you can modify it to spin continuously. Make sure the motor is 360 degree modifiable. Size/weight isn't very important in this project because you will probably have plenty of room left over anyway. Try to get something average sized. Torque is the motors strength. These are what the gears are used for. If there are no gears and the torque is low, it probably won't allow the robot to move forward because it doesn't have the strength. You want a high torque, but the higher the torque, generally the lower the speed. For this robot, try to get a good balance of speed and torque. You can always purchase and attach a more powerful or faster servo after you finish building. It's recommended to get the Hitec HS-311 servo for the first RC robot. This servo has a great balance of speed and torque, is inexpensive, and is a good size for this robot.
Since the servo can normally only spin 180 degrees you have to modify it so it has continuous rotation. Modifying a servo will void the warranty, but it has to be done.
Choose a battery You will need to get something to power your robot. Do not try to use AC (i.e. plug it into the wall) power. You should use DC (i.e. batteries) power.
Choose a Battery Type. There are 3 main types of batteries that we will be choosing from. These are Lithium Polymer (Lipo), NiMH, NiCad, and Alkaline.
Lipo batteries are the newest batteries that you can get and are extremely lightweight. However, they are dangerous, expensive, and require a special charger. Only use this type of battery if you have experience in robots and are willing to spend more money on your robot.
NiCad batteries are common rechargeable batteries. These are used in a lot of robots. The biggest problem with these batteries is if you charge them when they aren't fully dead, they won't last for as long on a full charge.
NiMH batteries are very similar to NiCad batteries in size, weight, and price but have better overall performance and these are the batteries usually recommended for a beginner's project.
Alkaline batteries are the common batteries that aren't rechargeable. These batteries are common (You probably have some), cheap, and easy to get. However, they die fast and you have to buy them over and over again. Don't use these.
Choose battery specifications. You have to pick a voltage for your battery pack. The most common in robots are 4.8V and 6.0V. Most servos will be fine running on either of those. It's usually recommended going with the 6.0V (if your servos can handle it, which most can) because it will allow you to have your servo motor go faster and have more power. Now you need to deal with the capacity of your robot's battery pack. These are labeled as mAh. The higher you go the better, but the more expensive and usually heavier. For the size of robot you are building, it's recommend about 1800 mAh. If you have to choose between a 1450 mAh battery or a 2000 mAh battery of the same voltage and weight go with the 2000 mAh. It will be more expensive by a few dollars, but is an all around better battery to get. Be sure you get a charger to charge your battery pack with.
Choose a material for your robot. A robot needs a chassis to attach all the electronics to. Most robots this size are made out of plastic or aluminum. For a beginner, it's recommended to use a type of plastic called HDPE. This plastic is easy to work with and cheap. When deciding the thickness to get, get about 1/4" thick. When deciding how big of a sheet to get, you should probably get a fairly big sheet in case you mess up on cutting. It's usually recommended to get at least double the size of your robot. However, you probably should get more. A 1/4" 24"X24" piece of HDPE can be purchased online or at a hardware store.
Choose a transmitter/receiver. This is going to be the most expensive part of your robot. It can also be considered the most important, because without it, the robot can't do anything. It's highly recommended to buy a good transmitter/receiver to start off with, because it's the thing that will be the limit to how much you can put on. A cheap transmitter/receiver will move your robot fine, but you won't be able to add anything to it. Also, the transmitter can be used for other robots that you may build in the future. So instead of buying a cheap one now and a more expensive one later, just buy the better one now. It will save you money in the long run. Anyway, there are a few frequencies that you can use. The most common are 27MHz, 72MHz, 75MHz, and 2.4GHz . 27MHz can be used for aircraft or cars. It is most commonly used in cheap remote controlled toys. 27MHz isn't recommended for anything except small projects. 72MHz can only be used for aircraft. Since 72MHz is normally used in large model aircraft, it is illegal to use in surface vehicles. If you do use 72MHz, not only are you breaking the law, but you could interfere with a large, expensive model airplane flying nearby. This could cause it to crash and could cost a lot of money to repair, or even worse crash into a person and injure or even kill them. 75MHz is made for only surface use, so you could use this one. However, 2.4GHz is the best. It has less interference than any of the other frequencies. It's highly recommended spending the extra few dollars and getting a 2.4GHz transmitter and receiver. After you decided upon what frequency you are going to use, you need to decide how many "channels" you are going to get on the transmitter/receiver. Channels are pretty much how many things you can control on your robot. For this robot you will need at least two. One channel will let your robot go forward/backwards and one will allow it to go left/right. However, it's recommended to get at least 3. This is because, after you built the robot, you may want to add another thing to it. If you get 4, you usually have two joysticks. With a four channel transmitter/receiver, you may be able to eventually add a claw. As said before, you should get the best transmitter/receiver your budget allows now, so you don't have to buy a better one later. You can use your transmitter and even your receiver again on other robots you may build. The Spectrum DX5e 5-Channel 2.4GHz Radio System Mode 2 and AR500 can be bought together.
Choose wheels. When choosing wheels, the three most important things you need to worry about are diameter, traction, and if they will attach to your motors easily. Diameter is the length of the wheel from one side, through the center point, to the other side. The greater the diameter of the wheel, the faster it goes and the more it can climb, but the less torque it will have. If you have a smaller wheel, it may not be able to climb very easy or go very fast but it will have more power. Traction is how well the wheels stick to the surface. Make sure that you get wheels with a rubber or foam ring around them so that they don't just slide around. Most wheels that are made to attach to servos, will be able to just screw right on to them, so you don't have to worry about that as much. It's recommended to get a wheel somewhere between 3 and 5 inches in diameter with a rubber ring around them. You will need 2 wheels.
1-4. Now that you have chosen your parts, go ahead and order them online.
Try to order them from as few sites as possible, because you may be able to save money on shipping that way if you order everything at the same time.
1-5. Measure and cut your chassis.
Get out a ruler and a sharpie and measure out the length and width of your chassis on the material you are using for your chassis. Consider about 15 cm by about 20 cm. Now, measure it again and make sure your lines aren't crooked and are how long you want them to be. Remember, measure twice, cut once. Now, you can cut. If you are using HDPE, you should be able to cut it the same ways as you would cut a piece of wood that size.
1-6. Assemble the robot.
Now that you have all your materials and your chassis cut, you just need to assemble it all together. This can actually be the easiest step if you designed the robot well.
Mount the servo motors on the bottom of the piece of plastic near the front. They should be sideways so that the shaft/horn (the part of the servo that moves) face the sides. Make sure there is enough room to mount the wheels.
Attach the wheels to the servo using the screws that came with the servo.
Stick a piece of velcro onto the receiver and another on the battery pack.
Put two pieces of the opposite velcro onto the robot and stick your receiver and battery pack to it.
You should now have a robot that has two wheels in the front and slopes down to the back. There is not going to be a "third wheel" on this robot, instead the back will just slide along the floor.
1-7. Plug in the wires.
Now that you have the robot assembled, you just need to plug everything into the receiver. Plug the battery into where it says "battery" on the receiver. Make sure you plug it in the correct way. Now, plug the servos into the first two channels on the receiver, where it says "channel 1" and "channel 2".
1-8. Charge it up.
Unplug the battery from the receiver and plug it into the charger. Wait until the battery is finished charging. This could take a full 24 hours, so be patient.
1-9. Play With It You should now be all done.
Go ahead, press forward on the transmitter. Build an obstacle course for it, play with your cat and dog and make them chase it. Now that you are done playing with it. Add some stuff to it!.
Tips
Try putting your old smartphone on it and using it as a video transmitter, if it has a camera. You can use it in conjunction with Google Hangouts as a video chat link between the robot and your computer or other device to steer your robot from outside of the room!
You may have to purchase an adapter that lets you plug the battery into the charger.
You might prefer using a 12VDC bike battery so it can have high torque and speed
Warnings
Using a 12VDC battery can blow up the motor if the motor is not 12VDC
Using a 12VDC battery on a 110-240VAC motor makes it smoke up and it soon fails
Do not use the frequency 72mhz unless you are building an aircraft. If you do use it on a surface vehicle, not only is it illegal, but you could injure or even kill someone.
Beginners should not try to use AC power (i.e. plugged into the electrical outlet) for any homemade project. AC power is extremely dangerous.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:59",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Recognize what you will be building.\\nYou are not going to be able to build a full sized, two-legged, humanoid robot that can do all your chores. Nor will you be building a robot with multiple claws that can reach out and pick up 100 pound weights. You will need to begin building a robot that will be able to go forward, backward, left, and right from you controlling it wirelessly. However, after you get the basics down and have this simple robot built, you can usually add and modify things on it. For example, a boom and bucket like a front end loader. You should usually go by the principle that no robot is ever finished. It can always be modified and made better.\\n1-2. Plan out your robot.\\nBefore building your robot, even before ordering parts. You need to design your robot. For your first robot you should go with a simple design of just two servo motors on a flat piece of plastic. This design is really simple and usually leaves extra room to add extra things after it's built. Plan to build something about 15 cm. by 20 cm. For a robot this simple, you should be able to just draw it out on paper using a ruler. Draw it the same size on paper as it should be in real life, since the robot is so small. When you get into bigger, more complex robots, you should start to learn how to use CAD or a program similar to it, such as Google Sketchup.\\n1-3. Choose your parts.\\nIt's still not time to order parts. But you should choose them now and know where to buy them. Try to order from as few sites as possible and you sometimes can save money on shipping. You will need a material for the chassis, two \\\"servo\\\" motors, a battery, a transmitter and a receiver.\\nChoosing a servo motor: To move the robot you will need to use motors. One motor will power one wheel and one for the other. This way you can use the simplest steering method, differential drive. This means to go forward both motors spin forward, to go backwards both motors spin backwards, and to turn one motor goes and one motor stays still. A servo motor is different than a basic DC motor because a servo motor is geared, can only turn 180 degrees, and can transmit data back on it's position. This project will be using servo motors because it's easier and you don't have to buy an expensive \\\"speed controller\\\" or a separate gear box. After you understand how to build a remote controlled robot, you may want to make another one (or modify the first one) to use DC motors, rather than servo motors. There are four basic things you need to worry about when buying servo motors. These are speed, torque, size/weight, and if they are 360 Modifiable. Since servo motors only turn 180 degrees, your robot would only be able to go forward a little bit. If the motor is 360 degree modifiable, you can modify it to spin continuously. Make sure the motor is 360 degree modifiable. Size/weight isn't very important in this project because you will probably have plenty of room left over anyway. Try to get something average sized. Torque is the motors strength. These are what the gears are used for. If there are no gears and the torque is low, it probably won't allow the robot to move forward because it doesn't have the strength. You want a high torque, but the higher the torque, generally the lower the speed. For this robot, try to get a good balance of speed and torque. You can always purchase and attach a more powerful or faster servo after you finish building. It's recommended to get the Hitec HS-311 servo for the first RC robot. This servo has a great balance of speed and torque, is inexpensive, and is a good size for this robot.\\nSince the servo can normally only spin 180 degrees you have to modify it so it has continuous rotation. Modifying a servo will void the warranty, but it has to be done.\\nChoose a battery You will need to get something to power your robot. Do not try to use AC (i.e. plug it into the wall) power. You should use DC (i.e. batteries) power.\\nChoose a Battery Type. There are 3 main types of batteries that we will be choosing from. These are Lithium Polymer (Lipo), NiMH, NiCad, and Alkaline.\\nLipo batteries are the newest batteries that you can get and are extremely lightweight. However, they are dangerous, expensive, and require a special charger. Only use this type of battery if you have experience in robots and are willing to spend more money on your robot.\\nNiCad batteries are common rechargeable batteries. These are used in a lot of robots. The biggest problem with these batteries is if you charge them when they aren't fully dead, they won't last for as long on a full charge.\\nNiMH batteries are very similar to NiCad batteries in size, weight, and price but have better overall performance and these are the batteries usually recommended for a beginner's project.\\nAlkaline batteries are the common batteries that aren't rechargeable. These batteries are common (You probably have some), cheap, and easy to get. However, they die fast and you have to buy them over and over again. Don't use these.\\n\\nChoose battery specifications. You have to pick a voltage for your battery pack. The most common in robots are 4.8V and 6.0V. Most servos will be fine running on either of those. It's usually recommended going with the 6.0V (if your servos can handle it, which most can) because it will allow you to have your servo motor go faster and have more power. Now you need to deal with the capacity of your robot's battery pack. These are labeled as mAh. The higher you go the better, but the more expensive and usually heavier. For the size of robot you are building, it's recommend about 1800 mAh. If you have to choose between a 1450 mAh battery or a 2000 mAh battery of the same voltage and weight go with the 2000 mAh. It will be more expensive by a few dollars, but is an all around better battery to get. Be sure you get a charger to charge your battery pack with.\\n\\nChoose a material for your robot. A robot needs a chassis to attach all the electronics to. Most robots this size are made out of plastic or aluminum. For a beginner, it's recommended to use a type of plastic called HDPE. This plastic is easy to work with and cheap. When deciding the thickness to get, get about 1/4\\\" thick. When deciding how big of a sheet to get, you should probably get a fairly big sheet in case you mess up on cutting. It's usually recommended to get at least double the size of your robot. However, you probably should get more. A 1/4\\\" 24\\\"X24\\\" piece of HDPE can be purchased online or at a hardware store.\\nChoose a transmitter/receiver. This is going to be the most expensive part of your robot. It can also be considered the most important, because without it, the robot can't do anything. It's highly recommended to buy a good transmitter/receiver to start off with, because it's the thing that will be the limit to how much you can put on. A cheap transmitter/receiver will move your robot fine, but you won't be able to add anything to it. Also, the transmitter can be used for other robots that you may build in the future. So instead of buying a cheap one now and a more expensive one later, just buy the better one now. It will save you money in the long run. Anyway, there are a few frequencies that you can use. The most common are 27MHz, 72MHz, 75MHz, and 2.4GHz . 27MHz can be used for aircraft or cars. It is most commonly used in cheap remote controlled toys. 27MHz isn't recommended for anything except small projects. 72MHz can only be used for aircraft. Since 72MHz is normally used in large model aircraft, it is illegal to use in surface vehicles. If you do use 72MHz, not only are you breaking the law, but you could interfere with a large, expensive model airplane flying nearby. This could cause it to crash and could cost a lot of money to repair, or even worse crash into a person and injure or even kill them. 75MHz is made for only surface use, so you could use this one. However, 2.4GHz is the best. It has less interference than any of the other frequencies. It's highly recommended spending the extra few dollars and getting a 2.4GHz transmitter and receiver. After you decided upon what frequency you are going to use, you need to decide how many \\\"channels\\\" you are going to get on the transmitter/receiver. Channels are pretty much how many things you can control on your robot. For this robot you will need at least two. One channel will let your robot go forward/backwards and one will allow it to go left/right. However, it's recommended to get at least 3. This is because, after you built the robot, you may want to add another thing to it. If you get 4, you usually have two joysticks. With a four channel transmitter/receiver, you may be able to eventually add a claw. As said before, you should get the best transmitter/receiver your budget allows now, so you don't have to buy a better one later. You can use your transmitter and even your receiver again on other robots you may build. The Spectrum DX5e 5-Channel 2.4GHz Radio System Mode 2 and AR500 can be bought together.\\nChoose wheels. When choosing wheels, the three most important things you need to worry about are diameter, traction, and if they will attach to your motors easily. Diameter is the length of the wheel from one side, through the center point, to the other side. The greater the diameter of the wheel, the faster it goes and the more it can climb, but the less torque it will have. If you have a smaller wheel, it may not be able to climb very easy or go very fast but it will have more power. Traction is how well the wheels stick to the surface. Make sure that you get wheels with a rubber or foam ring around them so that they don't just slide around. Most wheels that are made to attach to servos, will be able to just screw right on to them, so you don't have to worry about that as much. It's recommended to get a wheel somewhere between 3 and 5 inches in diameter with a rubber ring around them. You will need 2 wheels.\\n1-4. Now that you have chosen your parts, go ahead and order them online.\\nTry to order them from as few sites as possible, because you may be able to save money on shipping that way if you order everything at the same time.\\n1-5. Measure and cut your chassis.\\nGet out a ruler and a sharpie and measure out the length and width of your chassis on the material you are using for your chassis. Consider about 15 cm by about 20 cm. Now, measure it again and make sure your lines aren't crooked and are how long you want them to be. Remember, measure twice, cut once. Now, you can cut. If you are using HDPE, you should be able to cut it the same ways as you would cut a piece of wood that size.\\n1-6. Assemble the robot.\\nNow that you have all your materials and your chassis cut, you just need to assemble it all together. This can actually be the easiest step if you designed the robot well.\\nMount the servo motors on the bottom of the piece of plastic near the front. They should be sideways so that the shaft/horn (the part of the servo that moves) face the sides. Make sure there is enough room to mount the wheels.\\nAttach the wheels to the servo using the screws that came with the servo.\\nStick a piece of velcro onto the receiver and another on the battery pack.\\nPut two pieces of the opposite velcro onto the robot and stick your receiver and battery pack to it.\\nYou should now have a robot that has two wheels in the front and slopes down to the back. There is not going to be a \\\"third wheel\\\" on this robot, instead the back will just slide along the floor.\\n1-7. Plug in the wires.\\nNow that you have the robot assembled, you just need to plug everything into the receiver. Plug the battery into where it says \\\"battery\\\" on the receiver. Make sure you plug it in the correct way. Now, plug the servos into the first two channels on the receiver, where it says \\\"channel 1\\\" and \\\"channel 2\\\".\\n1-8. Charge it up.\\nUnplug the battery from the receiver and plug it into the charger. Wait until the battery is finished charging. This could take a full 24 hours, so be patient.\\n1-9. Play With It You should now be all done.\\nGo ahead, press forward on the transmitter. Build an obstacle course for it, play with your cat and dog and make them chase it. Now that you are done playing with it. Add some stuff to it!.\\nTips\\nTry putting your old smartphone on it and using it as a video transmitter, if it has a camera. You can use it in conjunction with Google Hangouts as a video chat link between the robot and your computer or other device to steer your robot from outside of the room!\\nYou may have to purchase an adapter that lets you plug the battery into the charger.\\nYou might prefer using a 12VDC bike battery so it can have high torque and speed\\nWarnings\\nUsing a 12VDC battery can blow up the motor if the motor is not 12VDC\\nUsing a 12VDC battery on a 110-240VAC motor makes it smoke up and it soon fails\\nDo not use the frequency 72mhz unless you are building an aircraft. If you do use it on a surface vehicle, not only is it illegal, but you could injure or even kill someone.\\nBeginners should not try to use AC power (i.e. plugged into the electrical outlet) for any homemade project. AC power is extremely dangerous.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Many people consider a robot as a machine that can run autonomous. However, if you broaden the definition of \\\"robot\\\" slightly, remote controlled objects can be considered to be a robot. You may think that building a remote controlled robot is tough, but in reality, it's simple if you know how. High school and middle school students have built robots with no previous experience. This article will explain how to build a remote controlled robot.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Recognize what you will be building.\", \"描述\": \"You are not going to be able to build a full sized, two-legged, humanoid robot that can do all your chores. Nor will you be building a robot with multiple claws that can reach out and pick up 100 pound weights. You will need to begin building a robot that will be able to go forward, backward, left, and right from you controlling it wirelessly. However, after you get the basics down and have this simple robot built, you can usually add and modify things on it. For example, a boom and bucket like a front end loader. You should usually go by the principle that no robot is ever finished. It can always be modified and made better.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan out your robot.\", \"描述\": \"Before building your robot, even before ordering parts. You need to design your robot. For your first robot you should go with a simple design of just two servo motors on a flat piece of plastic. This design is really simple and usually leaves extra room to add extra things after it's built. Plan to build something about 15 cm. by 20 cm. For a robot this simple, you should be able to just draw it out on paper using a ruler. Draw it the same size on paper as it should be in real life, since the robot is so small. When you get into bigger, more complex robots, you should start to learn how to use CAD or a program similar to it, such as Google Sketchup.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose your parts.\", \"描述\": \"It's still not time to order parts. But you should choose them now and know where to buy them. Try to order from as few sites as possible and you sometimes can save money on shipping. You will need a material for the chassis, two \\\"servo\\\" motors, a battery, a transmitter and a receiver.\\nChoosing a servo motor: To move the robot you will need to use motors. One motor will power one wheel and one for the other. This way you can use the simplest steering method, differential drive. This means to go forward both motors spin forward, to go backwards both motors spin backwards, and to turn one motor goes and one motor stays still. A servo motor is different than a basic DC motor because a servo motor is geared, can only turn 180 degrees, and can transmit data back on it's position. This project will be using servo motors because it's easier and you don't have to buy an expensive \\\"speed controller\\\" or a separate gear box. After you understand how to build a remote controlled robot, you may want to make another one (or modify the first one) to use DC motors, rather than servo motors. There are four basic things you need to worry about when buying servo motors. These are speed, torque, size/weight, and if they are 360 Modifiable. Since servo motors only turn 180 degrees, your robot would only be able to go forward a little bit. If the motor is 360 degree modifiable, you can modify it to spin continuously. Make sure the motor is 360 degree modifiable. Size/weight isn't very important in this project because you will probably have plenty of room left over anyway. Try to get something average sized. Torque is the motors strength. These are what the gears are used for. If there are no gears and the torque is low, it probably won't allow the robot to move forward because it doesn't have the strength. You want a high torque, but the higher the torque, generally the lower the speed. For this robot, try to get a good balance of speed and torque. You can always purchase and attach a more powerful or faster servo after you finish building. It's recommended to get the Hitec HS-311 servo for the first RC robot. This servo has a great balance of speed and torque, is inexpensive, and is a good size for this robot.\\nSince the servo can normally only spin 180 degrees you have to modify it so it has continuous rotation. Modifying a servo will void the warranty, but it has to be done.\\nChoose a battery You will need to get something to power your robot. Do not try to use AC (i.e. plug it into the wall) power. You should use DC (i.e. batteries) power.\\nChoose a Battery Type. There are 3 main types of batteries that we will be choosing from. These are Lithium Polymer (Lipo), NiMH, NiCad, and Alkaline.\\nLipo batteries are the newest batteries that you can get and are extremely lightweight. However, they are dangerous, expensive, and require a special charger. Only use this type of battery if you have experience in robots and are willing to spend more money on your robot.\\nNiCad batteries are common rechargeable batteries. These are used in a lot of robots. The biggest problem with these batteries is if you charge them when they aren't fully dead, they won't last for as long on a full charge.\\nNiMH batteries are very similar to NiCad batteries in size, weight, and price but have better overall performance and these are the batteries usually recommended for a beginner's project.\\nAlkaline batteries are the common batteries that aren't rechargeable. These batteries are common (You probably have some), cheap, and easy to get. However, they die fast and you have to buy them over and over again. Don't use these.\\n\\nChoose battery specifications. You have to pick a voltage for your battery pack. The most common in robots are 4.8V and 6.0V. Most servos will be fine running on either of those. It's usually recommended going with the 6.0V (if your servos can handle it, which most can) because it will allow you to have your servo motor go faster and have more power. Now you need to deal with the capacity of your robot's battery pack. These are labeled as mAh. The higher you go the better, but the more expensive and usually heavier. For the size of robot you are building, it's recommend about 1800 mAh. If you have to choose between a 1450 mAh battery or a 2000 mAh battery of the same voltage and weight go with the 2000 mAh. It will be more expensive by a few dollars, but is an all around better battery to get. Be sure you get a charger to charge your battery pack with.\\n\\nChoose a material for your robot. A robot needs a chassis to attach all the electronics to. Most robots this size are made out of plastic or aluminum. For a beginner, it's recommended to use a type of plastic called HDPE. This plastic is easy to work with and cheap. When deciding the thickness to get, get about 1/4\\\" thick. When deciding how big of a sheet to get, you should probably get a fairly big sheet in case you mess up on cutting. It's usually recommended to get at least double the size of your robot. However, you probably should get more. A 1/4\\\" 24\\\"X24\\\" piece of HDPE can be purchased online or at a hardware store.\\nChoose a transmitter/receiver. This is going to be the most expensive part of your robot. It can also be considered the most important, because without it, the robot can't do anything. It's highly recommended to buy a good transmitter/receiver to start off with, because it's the thing that will be the limit to how much you can put on. A cheap transmitter/receiver will move your robot fine, but you won't be able to add anything to it. Also, the transmitter can be used for other robots that you may build in the future. So instead of buying a cheap one now and a more expensive one later, just buy the better one now. It will save you money in the long run. Anyway, there are a few frequencies that you can use. The most common are 27MHz, 72MHz, 75MHz, and 2.4GHz . 27MHz can be used for aircraft or cars. It is most commonly used in cheap remote controlled toys. 27MHz isn't recommended for anything except small projects. 72MHz can only be used for aircraft. Since 72MHz is normally used in large model aircraft, it is illegal to use in surface vehicles. If you do use 72MHz, not only are you breaking the law, but you could interfere with a large, expensive model airplane flying nearby. This could cause it to crash and could cost a lot of money to repair, or even worse crash into a person and injure or even kill them. 75MHz is made for only surface use, so you could use this one. However, 2.4GHz is the best. It has less interference than any of the other frequencies. It's highly recommended spending the extra few dollars and getting a 2.4GHz transmitter and receiver. After you decided upon what frequency you are going to use, you need to decide how many \\\"channels\\\" you are going to get on the transmitter/receiver. Channels are pretty much how many things you can control on your robot. For this robot you will need at least two. One channel will let your robot go forward/backwards and one will allow it to go left/right. However, it's recommended to get at least 3. This is because, after you built the robot, you may want to add another thing to it. If you get 4, you usually have two joysticks. With a four channel transmitter/receiver, you may be able to eventually add a claw. As said before, you should get the best transmitter/receiver your budget allows now, so you don't have to buy a better one later. You can use your transmitter and even your receiver again on other robots you may build. The Spectrum DX5e 5-Channel 2.4GHz Radio System Mode 2 and AR500 can be bought together.\\nChoose wheels. When choosing wheels, the three most important things you need to worry about are diameter, traction, and if they will attach to your motors easily. Diameter is the length of the wheel from one side, through the center point, to the other side. The greater the diameter of the wheel, the faster it goes and the more it can climb, but the less torque it will have. If you have a smaller wheel, it may not be able to climb very easy or go very fast but it will have more power. Traction is how well the wheels stick to the surface. Make sure that you get wheels with a rubber or foam ring around them so that they don't just slide around. Most wheels that are made to attach to servos, will be able to just screw right on to them, so you don't have to worry about that as much. It's recommended to get a wheel somewhere between 3 and 5 inches in diameter with a rubber ring around them. You will need 2 wheels.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Now that you have chosen your parts, go ahead and order them online.\", \"描述\": \"Try to order them from as few sites as possible, because you may be able to save money on shipping that way if you order everything at the same time.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut your chassis.\", \"描述\": \"Get out a ruler and a sharpie and measure out the length and width of your chassis on the material you are using for your chassis. Consider about 15 cm by about 20 cm. Now, measure it again and make sure your lines aren't crooked and are how long you want them to be. Remember, measure twice, cut once. Now, you can cut. If you are using HDPE, you should be able to cut it the same ways as you would cut a piece of wood that size.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Assemble the robot.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have all your materials and your chassis cut, you just need to assemble it all together. This can actually be the easiest step if you designed the robot well.\\nMount the servo motors on the bottom of the piece of plastic near the front. They should be sideways so that the shaft/horn (the part of the servo that moves) face the sides. Make sure there is enough room to mount the wheels.\\nAttach the wheels to the servo using the screws that came with the servo.\\nStick a piece of velcro onto the receiver and another on the battery pack.\\nPut two pieces of the opposite velcro onto the robot and stick your receiver and battery pack to it.\\nYou should now have a robot that has two wheels in the front and slopes down to the back. There is not going to be a \\\"third wheel\\\" on this robot, instead the back will just slide along the floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Plug in the wires.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have the robot assembled, you just need to plug everything into the receiver. Plug the battery into where it says \\\"battery\\\" on the receiver. Make sure you plug it in the correct way. Now, plug the servos into the first two channels on the receiver, where it says \\\"channel 1\\\" and \\\"channel 2\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Charge it up.\", \"描述\": \"Unplug the battery from the receiver and plug it into the charger. Wait until the battery is finished charging. This could take a full 24 hours, so be patient.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Play With It You should now be all done.\", \"描述\": \"Go ahead, press forward on the transmitter. Build an obstacle course for it, play with your cat and dog and make them chase it. Now that you are done playing with it. Add some stuff to it!.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Try putting your old smartphone on it and using it as a video transmitter, if it has a camera. You can use it in conjunction with Google Hangouts as a video chat link between the robot and your computer or other device to steer your robot from outside of the room!\\n\", \"You may have to purchase an adapter that lets you plug the battery into the charger.\\n\", \"You might prefer using a 12VDC bike battery so it can have high torque and speed\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Using a 12VDC battery can blow up the motor if the motor is not 12VDC\\n\", \"Using a 12VDC battery on a 110-240VAC motor makes it smoke up and it soon fails\\n\", \"Do not use the frequency 72mhz unless you are building an aircraft. If you do use it on a surface vehicle, not only is it illegal, but you could injure or even kill someone.\\n\", \"Beginners should not try to use AC power (i.e. plugged into the electrical outlet) for any homemade project. AC power is extremely dangerous.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,505 |
How to Build a Reptile Cage
|
1. Building the Cage
1-1. Consider the behavior of your reptile.
Think about the type of reptile you have. Does your reptile need water? What type of light does your reptile need? Is your reptile young? How large is the reptile expected to grow? Will the cage be kept inside or outside?
The cage should resemble the reptile's natural habitat as much as possible. For example, a chameleon would need a tube cage.
Turtles, frogs, and some snakes will need water in the tank.
Some reptiles eat other insects and animals such as crickets and mice. Your cage needs to be able to accommodate those animals as well. You do not want those animals escaping into your home.
1-2. Choose materials to work with.
The materials you choose for the cage will depend on your budget and the needs of your reptile. Cages are typically made using screen or mesh, plastic or wooded, or acrylic or glass boxes. Also consider how often you will need to clean the cage.
Unless you have experience working with acrylic and glass, buy pre-cut panels. The panels can be attached together or you can attach the panels to a wood or plastic frame.
Plastic cages are more expensive, last longer, and hold heat better than glass cages.
Melamine, high pressure particle board with a decorative laminate coating, looks good, holds up well and is easy to clean, but it's heavy. Other options include a good grade of plywood or pre-cut shelving boards.
Walls can be made of wood, glass, transparent thermoplastic, or coated wire mesh.
Consider building a reptile cage out of existing items, such as an aquarium, old chest of drawers, entertainment center or a refrigerator with the door removed.
1-3. Determine the size of the cage you need.
Your reptile should have room to move around and hide in its cage. There should also be enough room to incorporate the necessary lighting, heating, and flooring. Most cages are rectangular in shape.
Small reptiles such as leopard geckos and garter snakes need two to six square feet of space.
Medium sized reptiles such as pythons need six to eight square feet of space.
Small reptiles that move around a lot such as bearded dragons need eight to 32 square feet of space.
Large reptiles such as iguanas, tortoises, and constrictors need a closet or room size for a cage.
1-4. Ventilate the cage.
Wire mesh, pegboard, and holes are all ventilation options. For example, screen and mesh are needed for reptiles such as chameleons that need plenty of airflow. The ventilation you choose should be based on the needs of your reptile.
Ventilation holes should either be too small for the reptile to escape through or covered with wire mesh, hardware cloth, or black window screen. Don't use wire mesh in snake cages.
Pegboard is good if the reptile likes to rub its nose against things.
If you are concerned about the reptile's nails injuring the cage, you can use quarter-inch plastic coated hardware cloth.
1-5. Create a sketch of the cage.
Once you have chosen the size of the cage and the materials you plan to use, make a sketch of the cage you plan to build. This will help you determine exactly what you need to buy, and help you develop a game plan for building the cage. Also measure the area where you plan on placing the cage to make sure that there will be enough room.
Make a list of the tools that you will need such as a chisel, drill, saw, etc. Also gather any screws, hinges, glue, or adhesive that you may need.
Plan your approach to building the cage. Decide what pieces you will put together first. Will you use pre-cut materials or cut your own?
1-6. Construct the cage.
Attach the walls of the cage using wood or glue. Plexiglass and wood will require screws. Create cut outs for ventilation as well. Construct a door for the cage and apply hinges or latches to the door frames.
Doors should always open sideways or down. If you have to hold the door up with one hand, cleaning the cage or caring for your reptile will be more difficult.
Put the door in a place that allows you to reach all areas of the cage easily. A badly placed or sized door may make it more difficult for you to care for your reptile.
Do not place hinges on top of the door.
Make sure that all of the hinges, screws, lids, and doors are sturdy. You do not want your reptile to escape from the cage.
1-7. Add any finishing touches.
Sand down any rough areas or sharp edges. Seal the bottom of the cage so substrate, water and excrement don't leak out. You can use non-toxic silicone sealant and a durable plastic sheeting. Cover the raw edges of any wire mesh inside the cage.
If you plan to paint or decorate the wood, stain bare wood and apply a topcoat, such as polyurethane, to protect it. Be sure to air it thoroughly afterward so fumes don't sicken your reptile.
2. Preparing the Habitat
2-1. Choose the substrate (flooring).
Flooring choices include sand (fine beach sand, playground sand, silica sand), gravel/stones (lava rock, pea gravel, polished stones), wood and paper products (bark, mulch, butcher paper, newspaper, paper towels, shavings), soils and mosses (sphagnum moss, potting soil, Spanish moss), or litter (cat litter, clay litter, alfalfa pellets). The type of substrate you use will depend on the needs of your reptile.
When in doubt, seek professional advice from a reptile specialist. Some substrates, for example sand, can readily cause gut impactions if the lizards eats some when feeding off insects.
Wood is best for arboreal species of reptiles, such as lizards, that do not spend a lot of time on the ground.
Paper towels and newspapers can be shredded and placed on the bottom of the cage. These materials are inexpensive and are easy to clean up, but they do not help with odor control.
Coconut fiber is good for reptiles that need a high humidity environment and helps control odor. It is also good for reptiles that like to burrow and hide.
Moss is good for high humidity reptiles and is good for reptiles that like to burrow as well.
Sand works for desert species reptiles; however, it can be harmful if large amounts are ingested.
Never use soil, grass, bark or other substrates from the park or your yard. They may contain organisms and bacteria that may be harmful to your reptile.
2-2. Add heat to the reptile cage.
All reptiles need an external heat source because they cannot control their own body temperature and many of them come from warm climates. If your reptile spends most of his time on branches or in the upper portion of the cage, he will need basking heat. If your reptile spends most of his time on the ground, you will need ground heat. All cages need a thermometer as well. The ideal temperature is between 20 and 32 ºC (68 to 89.6 ºF).
Ceramic heaters, basking lamps, and basking lights can be used to provide basking heat. Basking lights are used to create a desert environment. Basking lamps have time limits (14 hours in the summer and 8 hours during the winter) and must be monitored.
Heat mats and pads, hot rocks, and heat cable and ropes provide ground heat. Heat mats and pads provide constant heat. Hot rocks are best for nocturnal reptiles, but may malfunction from time to time. Choose your hot rocks, mats, and pads carefully. Some mats get too hot and the reptile could burn his belly lying on it. Heat cables and ropes are flexible and can be wrapped around different objects. Heat cables and ropes get very hot. You will need to use a rheostat to monitor the temperature.
Do not place a basking light above a heat pad. This can cause the temperature of the heat pad to reach unsafe levels and can hurt your reptile.
2-3. Provide ultraviolet (UV) light.
Most reptiles need full spectrum lights that provide either UVA or UVB light. Proper lighting will keep your reptile healthy and happy and provide adequate levels of Vitamin D3 and calcium. The specific light you use will depend on the type of reptile you have.
Lights should be placed 12 to 18 inches from where the reptile will lie.
Lights that provide 4% to 10% of radiation as UVB are best, depending on the animal.
You will most likely need at least two UV bulbs. It is best to switch your lights on and off — including the UV — to mimic day length in the habitat in which your lizard lives in the wild.
Lights should be replaced every six months, regardless of whether they appear to be functioning. This is because the UV levels emitted drop off markedly after six months.
Incandescent lights will add heat to a cage. While you can use this type of light as a heat source, take care that it doesn't make the cage too hot.
Install lights outside the cage if possible. If you choose to install a bulb inside the cage, build a shield around it so the reptile doesn't come into contact with it.
2-4. Furnish the cage with items that simulate your reptile's natural environment.
Put in tree branches for species that like to climb and flat rocks for those who enjoy basking under a heat lamp. Give your reptile places to hide, ideally one hide at the warm end and one hide at the cool end of the cage. Purchase the furnishings from a pet store or trusted online retailer. Branches, sticks, and leaves from our natural environment may be harmful for your reptile.
Consider your reptile's water and food needs. Some need a large dish they can climb into, while others need a drip bottle to drink from.
2-5. Observe your reptile in the cage.
Place your reptile inside and observe his behavior closely to make sure he is comfortable. A reptile that acts strangely or is constantly trying to escape may be in distress, requiring that you make adjustments or build a more suitable cage.
Tips
Before you begin building a reptile cage, make sure you can move it into place when it's finished. Measure your door widths and redesign your cage as needed to make sure it will fit through your doors.
Don't use any toxic chemicals that may harm your reptile.
Make sure to cover any excess holes with extra wood, glass, or mesh wire.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:59",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Cage\\n1-1. Consider the behavior of your reptile.\\nThink about the type of reptile you have. Does your reptile need water? What type of light does your reptile need? Is your reptile young? How large is the reptile expected to grow? Will the cage be kept inside or outside?\\nThe cage should resemble the reptile's natural habitat as much as possible. For example, a chameleon would need a tube cage.\\nTurtles, frogs, and some snakes will need water in the tank.\\nSome reptiles eat other insects and animals such as crickets and mice. Your cage needs to be able to accommodate those animals as well. You do not want those animals escaping into your home.\\n1-2. Choose materials to work with.\\nThe materials you choose for the cage will depend on your budget and the needs of your reptile. Cages are typically made using screen or mesh, plastic or wooded, or acrylic or glass boxes. Also consider how often you will need to clean the cage.\\nUnless you have experience working with acrylic and glass, buy pre-cut panels. The panels can be attached together or you can attach the panels to a wood or plastic frame.\\nPlastic cages are more expensive, last longer, and hold heat better than glass cages.\\nMelamine, high pressure particle board with a decorative laminate coating, looks good, holds up well and is easy to clean, but it's heavy. Other options include a good grade of plywood or pre-cut shelving boards.\\nWalls can be made of wood, glass, transparent thermoplastic, or coated wire mesh.\\nConsider building a reptile cage out of existing items, such as an aquarium, old chest of drawers, entertainment center or a refrigerator with the door removed.\\n1-3. Determine the size of the cage you need.\\nYour reptile should have room to move around and hide in its cage. There should also be enough room to incorporate the necessary lighting, heating, and flooring. Most cages are rectangular in shape.\\nSmall reptiles such as leopard geckos and garter snakes need two to six square feet of space.\\nMedium sized reptiles such as pythons need six to eight square feet of space.\\nSmall reptiles that move around a lot such as bearded dragons need eight to 32 square feet of space.\\nLarge reptiles such as iguanas, tortoises, and constrictors need a closet or room size for a cage.\\n1-4. Ventilate the cage.\\nWire mesh, pegboard, and holes are all ventilation options. For example, screen and mesh are needed for reptiles such as chameleons that need plenty of airflow. The ventilation you choose should be based on the needs of your reptile.\\nVentilation holes should either be too small for the reptile to escape through or covered with wire mesh, hardware cloth, or black window screen. Don't use wire mesh in snake cages.\\nPegboard is good if the reptile likes to rub its nose against things.\\nIf you are concerned about the reptile's nails injuring the cage, you can use quarter-inch plastic coated hardware cloth.\\n1-5. Create a sketch of the cage.\\nOnce you have chosen the size of the cage and the materials you plan to use, make a sketch of the cage you plan to build. This will help you determine exactly what you need to buy, and help you develop a game plan for building the cage. Also measure the area where you plan on placing the cage to make sure that there will be enough room. \\nMake a list of the tools that you will need such as a chisel, drill, saw, etc. Also gather any screws, hinges, glue, or adhesive that you may need.\\nPlan your approach to building the cage. Decide what pieces you will put together first. Will you use pre-cut materials or cut your own?\\n1-6. Construct the cage.\\nAttach the walls of the cage using wood or glue. Plexiglass and wood will require screws. Create cut outs for ventilation as well. Construct a door for the cage and apply hinges or latches to the door frames.\\nDoors should always open sideways or down. If you have to hold the door up with one hand, cleaning the cage or caring for your reptile will be more difficult.\\nPut the door in a place that allows you to reach all areas of the cage easily. A badly placed or sized door may make it more difficult for you to care for your reptile.\\nDo not place hinges on top of the door.\\nMake sure that all of the hinges, screws, lids, and doors are sturdy. You do not want your reptile to escape from the cage.\\n1-7. Add any finishing touches.\\nSand down any rough areas or sharp edges. Seal the bottom of the cage so substrate, water and excrement don't leak out. You can use non-toxic silicone sealant and a durable plastic sheeting. Cover the raw edges of any wire mesh inside the cage.\\nIf you plan to paint or decorate the wood, stain bare wood and apply a topcoat, such as polyurethane, to protect it. Be sure to air it thoroughly afterward so fumes don't sicken your reptile.\\n2. Preparing the Habitat\\n2-1. Choose the substrate (flooring).\\nFlooring choices include sand (fine beach sand, playground sand, silica sand), gravel/stones (lava rock, pea gravel, polished stones), wood and paper products (bark, mulch, butcher paper, newspaper, paper towels, shavings), soils and mosses (sphagnum moss, potting soil, Spanish moss), or litter (cat litter, clay litter, alfalfa pellets). The type of substrate you use will depend on the needs of your reptile.\\nWhen in doubt, seek professional advice from a reptile specialist. Some substrates, for example sand, can readily cause gut impactions if the lizards eats some when feeding off insects.\\nWood is best for arboreal species of reptiles, such as lizards, that do not spend a lot of time on the ground.\\nPaper towels and newspapers can be shredded and placed on the bottom of the cage. These materials are inexpensive and are easy to clean up, but they do not help with odor control.\\nCoconut fiber is good for reptiles that need a high humidity environment and helps control odor. It is also good for reptiles that like to burrow and hide.\\nMoss is good for high humidity reptiles and is good for reptiles that like to burrow as well.\\nSand works for desert species reptiles; however, it can be harmful if large amounts are ingested.\\nNever use soil, grass, bark or other substrates from the park or your yard. They may contain organisms and bacteria that may be harmful to your reptile.\\n2-2. Add heat to the reptile cage.\\nAll reptiles need an external heat source because they cannot control their own body temperature and many of them come from warm climates. If your reptile spends most of his time on branches or in the upper portion of the cage, he will need basking heat. If your reptile spends most of his time on the ground, you will need ground heat. All cages need a thermometer as well. The ideal temperature is between 20 and 32 ºC (68 to 89.6 ºF).\\nCeramic heaters, basking lamps, and basking lights can be used to provide basking heat. Basking lights are used to create a desert environment. Basking lamps have time limits (14 hours in the summer and 8 hours during the winter) and must be monitored.\\nHeat mats and pads, hot rocks, and heat cable and ropes provide ground heat. Heat mats and pads provide constant heat. Hot rocks are best for nocturnal reptiles, but may malfunction from time to time. Choose your hot rocks, mats, and pads carefully. Some mats get too hot and the reptile could burn his belly lying on it. Heat cables and ropes are flexible and can be wrapped around different objects. Heat cables and ropes get very hot. You will need to use a rheostat to monitor the temperature.\\nDo not place a basking light above a heat pad. This can cause the temperature of the heat pad to reach unsafe levels and can hurt your reptile.\\n2-3. Provide ultraviolet (UV) light.\\nMost reptiles need full spectrum lights that provide either UVA or UVB light. Proper lighting will keep your reptile healthy and happy and provide adequate levels of Vitamin D3 and calcium. The specific light you use will depend on the type of reptile you have.\\nLights should be placed 12 to 18 inches from where the reptile will lie.\\nLights that provide 4% to 10% of radiation as UVB are best, depending on the animal.\\nYou will most likely need at least two UV bulbs. It is best to switch your lights on and off — including the UV — to mimic day length in the habitat in which your lizard lives in the wild.\\nLights should be replaced every six months, regardless of whether they appear to be functioning. This is because the UV levels emitted drop off markedly after six months.\\nIncandescent lights will add heat to a cage. While you can use this type of light as a heat source, take care that it doesn't make the cage too hot.\\nInstall lights outside the cage if possible. If you choose to install a bulb inside the cage, build a shield around it so the reptile doesn't come into contact with it.\\n2-4. Furnish the cage with items that simulate your reptile's natural environment.\\nPut in tree branches for species that like to climb and flat rocks for those who enjoy basking under a heat lamp. Give your reptile places to hide, ideally one hide at the warm end and one hide at the cool end of the cage. Purchase the furnishings from a pet store or trusted online retailer. Branches, sticks, and leaves from our natural environment may be harmful for your reptile.\\nConsider your reptile's water and food needs. Some need a large dish they can climb into, while others need a drip bottle to drink from.\\n2-5. Observe your reptile in the cage.\\nPlace your reptile inside and observe his behavior closely to make sure he is comfortable. A reptile that acts strangely or is constantly trying to escape may be in distress, requiring that you make adjustments or build a more suitable cage.\\nTips\\nBefore you begin building a reptile cage, make sure you can move it into place when it's finished. Measure your door widths and redesign your cage as needed to make sure it will fit through your doors.\\nDon't use any toxic chemicals that may harm your reptile.\\nMake sure to cover any excess holes with extra wood, glass, or mesh wire.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A reptile cage must do more than keep your reptile inside. It must provide it a safe, comfortable home and allow your reptile to enjoy his natural behaviors. The needs of reptiles vary according to species, and you must research what the needs of your reptile are before building him a cage.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Cage\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider the behavior of your reptile.\", \"描述\": \"Think about the type of reptile you have. Does your reptile need water? What type of light does your reptile need? Is your reptile young? How large is the reptile expected to grow? Will the cage be kept inside or outside?\\nThe cage should resemble the reptile's natural habitat as much as possible. For example, a chameleon would need a tube cage.\\nTurtles, frogs, and some snakes will need water in the tank.\\nSome reptiles eat other insects and animals such as crickets and mice. Your cage needs to be able to accommodate those animals as well. You do not want those animals escaping into your home.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose materials to work with.\", \"描述\": \"The materials you choose for the cage will depend on your budget and the needs of your reptile. Cages are typically made using screen or mesh, plastic or wooded, or acrylic or glass boxes. Also consider how often you will need to clean the cage.\\nUnless you have experience working with acrylic and glass, buy pre-cut panels. The panels can be attached together or you can attach the panels to a wood or plastic frame.\\nPlastic cages are more expensive, last longer, and hold heat better than glass cages.\\nMelamine, high pressure particle board with a decorative laminate coating, looks good, holds up well and is easy to clean, but it's heavy. Other options include a good grade of plywood or pre-cut shelving boards.\\nWalls can be made of wood, glass, transparent thermoplastic, or coated wire mesh.\\nConsider building a reptile cage out of existing items, such as an aquarium, old chest of drawers, entertainment center or a refrigerator with the door removed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Determine the size of the cage you need.\", \"描述\": \"Your reptile should have room to move around and hide in its cage. There should also be enough room to incorporate the necessary lighting, heating, and flooring. Most cages are rectangular in shape.\\nSmall reptiles such as leopard geckos and garter snakes need two to six square feet of space.\\nMedium sized reptiles such as pythons need six to eight square feet of space.\\nSmall reptiles that move around a lot such as bearded dragons need eight to 32 square feet of space.\\nLarge reptiles such as iguanas, tortoises, and constrictors need a closet or room size for a cage.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Ventilate the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Wire mesh, pegboard, and holes are all ventilation options. For example, screen and mesh are needed for reptiles such as chameleons that need plenty of airflow. The ventilation you choose should be based on the needs of your reptile.\\nVentilation holes should either be too small for the reptile to escape through or covered with wire mesh, hardware cloth, or black window screen. Don't use wire mesh in snake cages.\\nPegboard is good if the reptile likes to rub its nose against things.\\nIf you are concerned about the reptile's nails injuring the cage, you can use quarter-inch plastic coated hardware cloth.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create a sketch of the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have chosen the size of the cage and the materials you plan to use, make a sketch of the cage you plan to build. This will help you determine exactly what you need to buy, and help you develop a game plan for building the cage. Also measure the area where you plan on placing the cage to make sure that there will be enough room. \\nMake a list of the tools that you will need such as a chisel, drill, saw, etc. Also gather any screws, hinges, glue, or adhesive that you may need.\\nPlan your approach to building the cage. Decide what pieces you will put together first. Will you use pre-cut materials or cut your own?\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Construct the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the walls of the cage using wood or glue. Plexiglass and wood will require screws. Create cut outs for ventilation as well. Construct a door for the cage and apply hinges or latches to the door frames.\\nDoors should always open sideways or down. If you have to hold the door up with one hand, cleaning the cage or caring for your reptile will be more difficult.\\nPut the door in a place that allows you to reach all areas of the cage easily. A badly placed or sized door may make it more difficult for you to care for your reptile.\\nDo not place hinges on top of the door.\\nMake sure that all of the hinges, screws, lids, and doors are sturdy. You do not want your reptile to escape from the cage.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add any finishing touches.\", \"描述\": \"Sand down any rough areas or sharp edges. Seal the bottom of the cage so substrate, water and excrement don't leak out. You can use non-toxic silicone sealant and a durable plastic sheeting. Cover the raw edges of any wire mesh inside the cage.\\nIf you plan to paint or decorate the wood, stain bare wood and apply a topcoat, such as polyurethane, to protect it. Be sure to air it thoroughly afterward so fumes don't sicken your reptile.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Habitat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the substrate (flooring).\", \"描述\": \"Flooring choices include sand (fine beach sand, playground sand, silica sand), gravel/stones (lava rock, pea gravel, polished stones), wood and paper products (bark, mulch, butcher paper, newspaper, paper towels, shavings), soils and mosses (sphagnum moss, potting soil, Spanish moss), or litter (cat litter, clay litter, alfalfa pellets). The type of substrate you use will depend on the needs of your reptile.\\nWhen in doubt, seek professional advice from a reptile specialist. Some substrates, for example sand, can readily cause gut impactions if the lizards eats some when feeding off insects.\\nWood is best for arboreal species of reptiles, such as lizards, that do not spend a lot of time on the ground.\\nPaper towels and newspapers can be shredded and placed on the bottom of the cage. These materials are inexpensive and are easy to clean up, but they do not help with odor control.\\nCoconut fiber is good for reptiles that need a high humidity environment and helps control odor. It is also good for reptiles that like to burrow and hide.\\nMoss is good for high humidity reptiles and is good for reptiles that like to burrow as well.\\nSand works for desert species reptiles; however, it can be harmful if large amounts are ingested.\\nNever use soil, grass, bark or other substrates from the park or your yard. They may contain organisms and bacteria that may be harmful to your reptile.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add heat to the reptile cage.\", \"描述\": \"All reptiles need an external heat source because they cannot control their own body temperature and many of them come from warm climates. If your reptile spends most of his time on branches or in the upper portion of the cage, he will need basking heat. If your reptile spends most of his time on the ground, you will need ground heat. All cages need a thermometer as well. The ideal temperature is between 20 and 32 ºC (68 to 89.6 ºF).\\nCeramic heaters, basking lamps, and basking lights can be used to provide basking heat. Basking lights are used to create a desert environment. Basking lamps have time limits (14 hours in the summer and 8 hours during the winter) and must be monitored.\\nHeat mats and pads, hot rocks, and heat cable and ropes provide ground heat. Heat mats and pads provide constant heat. Hot rocks are best for nocturnal reptiles, but may malfunction from time to time. Choose your hot rocks, mats, and pads carefully. Some mats get too hot and the reptile could burn his belly lying on it. Heat cables and ropes are flexible and can be wrapped around different objects. Heat cables and ropes get very hot. You will need to use a rheostat to monitor the temperature.\\nDo not place a basking light above a heat pad. This can cause the temperature of the heat pad to reach unsafe levels and can hurt your reptile.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Provide ultraviolet (UV) light.\", \"描述\": \"Most reptiles need full spectrum lights that provide either UVA or UVB light. Proper lighting will keep your reptile healthy and happy and provide adequate levels of Vitamin D3 and calcium. The specific light you use will depend on the type of reptile you have.\\nLights should be placed 12 to 18 inches from where the reptile will lie.\\nLights that provide 4% to 10% of radiation as UVB are best, depending on the animal.\\nYou will most likely need at least two UV bulbs. It is best to switch your lights on and off — including the UV — to mimic day length in the habitat in which your lizard lives in the wild.\\nLights should be replaced every six months, regardless of whether they appear to be functioning. This is because the UV levels emitted drop off markedly after six months.\\nIncandescent lights will add heat to a cage. While you can use this type of light as a heat source, take care that it doesn't make the cage too hot.\\nInstall lights outside the cage if possible. If you choose to install a bulb inside the cage, build a shield around it so the reptile doesn't come into contact with it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Furnish the cage with items that simulate your reptile's natural environment.\", \"描述\": \"Put in tree branches for species that like to climb and flat rocks for those who enjoy basking under a heat lamp. Give your reptile places to hide, ideally one hide at the warm end and one hide at the cool end of the cage. Purchase the furnishings from a pet store or trusted online retailer. Branches, sticks, and leaves from our natural environment may be harmful for your reptile.\\nConsider your reptile's water and food needs. Some need a large dish they can climb into, while others need a drip bottle to drink from.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Observe your reptile in the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Place your reptile inside and observe his behavior closely to make sure he is comfortable. A reptile that acts strangely or is constantly trying to escape may be in distress, requiring that you make adjustments or build a more suitable cage.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Before you begin building a reptile cage, make sure you can move it into place when it's finished. Measure your door widths and redesign your cage as needed to make sure it will fit through your doors.\\n\", \"Don't use any toxic chemicals that may harm your reptile.\\n\", \"Make sure to cover any excess holes with extra wood, glass, or mesh wire.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,506 |
How to Build a Retaining Wall
|
1. Prepping Your Building Site
1-1. Plan and layout the site.
Plan where your retaining wall is going to be using stakes and string, leveling off to ensure an even height and using a tape measure to ensure an even length.
Contact your local utilities office to confirm that there are no pipes or cables in your digging zone. Your local utilities office should perform this free of charge.
If you live in the USA, you must make an 811 “Digline” call and set up a time to have your property inspected to determine the location of underground utility pipes and cables before starting any digging project. This is required by law. Make the call at least a few days before you plan to start your project.
If you want more of a random outline, lay out a line for your wall using a garden hose. Simply drape the garden hose out in the general area of the proposed wall utilizing its curves. Check to see that the shape is buildable and aesthetically pleasing, and then use landscaping paint or flour to mark the ground where the garden hose was.
1-2. Excavate the site.
Using a shovel, dig a trench along the line you have laid out. It should be slightly wider than the blocks you will use for your wall, or about 1 foot (30 cm). Check that the trench is as level as possible.
If you live in the USA, you must wait until the Digline locate process is complete before you begin excavating.
Enough space should be made to bury the bottom row of blocks at least 1 inch (2.54 cm) for every 8 inches (20.32 cm) of wall height. Factor into this equation a level of paver base that will rest on the bottom of the trench.
1-3. Tamp the soil level and lay down a paver base.
Using a soil tamper — you can easily rent one for less than $20 — tamp (pack) down the bottom of the trench. Then, add 4 to 6 inches (10.16-15.24 cm) of patio paver base or rock dust to the bottom of the trench. Patio paver base is ideal because it is specially made gravel that compacts well and is sturdy.
Rake the paver base once it's been applied, getting as much uniform coverage as possible.
Go over the paver base one more time with a level, making sure that the trench area is a uniform height. If there's uneven distribution add a little more or take away some paver base by raking.
Tamp the bottom of the trench again, compacting the base a final time.
2. Laying the Foundation
2-1. Begin by laying the foundation.
These are the most critical blocks in your wall. If they aren't level or adequately support the top half of your retaining wall, the whole project is going to look less than professional. Make sure that the foundational blocks are leveled off, sturdy, and tightly packed together.
2-2. Start at the most visible edge of the wall.
Add gravel or crushed rock to level the stone, if necessary. Add the first block to the trench, using a cornerstone. Make sure it is level from front to back and side to side.
Alternately, if there's no edge to the wall that is more visible than another, start at the edge that will be closest to another structure (usually a house).
If you're building a straight or rectangular retaining wall, make sure that the backs of the blocks line up with one another perfectly; if you're building a curved retaining wall, make sure that the fronts of the blocks line up with one another perfectly.
2-3. Cut off the top tongue of the base stones, if necessary.
Some contractors prefer cutting off the top tongue or groove from the base stones before laying them down. Check for sturdiness yourself and knock the tongue off the block with a hammer and chisel, if necessary.
Understand that curved retaining walls with tongues may not benefit from the interlocking grooves. These grooves will need to be cut off with a hammer and chisel if the layout of the pattern does not fit the direction of the grooves.
2-4. Use coarse sand and a rubber mallet to level off the first layer of blocks.
This will complete the entire foundation. If you took the time to level off the bed, laying the first row should be easy. Use coarse sand where necessary to get a level finish on your foundation. Hammer the blocks down with your rubber mallet.
2-5. Cut individual blocks to complete the first layer, if necessary.
Simply mark them at the appropriate length and cut with a mason's saw. Always use proper protection when cutting.
2-6. Use crushed stone or gravel for backfill on your first layer of blocks.
This will provide excellent support, keeping your bottom layer from slipping back with time and erosion.
2-7. Place a filter fabric over the backfill.
This will prevent frost heave and keeps the soil from mixing with the backfill. Depending on how tall your retaining wall is, you may want to drape the filler along the back side of the trench or house, fill the trench with backfill until it's anchored the filter fabric down, and then drape the fabric flat out, on top of the backfill.
2-8. Sweep the first layer with a broom.
This will free up any dirt or dust.
3. Completing the Wall
3-1. Start your second layer with a staggered pattern.
This is so that the top layer seams are offset with the bottom layer. You want each layer of blocks to be different from the one below it. For example, if the wall has straight edges on the ends, the next layer should start with a block that has been cut in half.
Place the blocks onto the foundation before applying the adhesive. See how they look; ask yourself whether you need to make any significant cuts before gluing . Lay out one whole row before moving on to the next step.
If you're working with blocks that have flanged tongues, simply line up the female groove of the top block with the male groove of the bottom block.
3-2. Apply the recommended adhesive to the bottom blocks, once a layer has been provisionally laid out.
Next, fit the top block overhead. Press down to make sure that each layer is secured tightly against the layer beneath it. Continue until retaining wall is its preferred height.
If your wall is over 3 ft (.91 m) in height, you should offset each new row slightly back from the row below it, like very shallow stair steps. This will make your wall more stable and help create a better hold with the soil once you backfill.
3-3. Add drainage pipes to your retaining wall, if the wall is 2 feet (60 cm) or taller.
Look for a perforated pipe and lay it down the length of the retaining wall, covering it up with breathable backfill.
Make sure water can drain out of your pipe, either at the ends or through an outlet in the middle of the wall.
3-4. Add topper stones, if desired.
Topper stones usually come in rectangular shapes, making them more difficult to install in curved retaining walls. If you need to cut topper stones to fit the curve in your retaining wall, follow this trick:
Lay stones #1 and #3 out in their pattern.
Lay stone #2 on top of #1 and #3, drawing lines on #1 and #3 where stone #2 overlaps them.
Cut stones #1 and #3 along those lines.
Line up #1 and #3 into place, snugging #2 in between.
Repeat, placing stone #4 on top of stones #3 and #5.
3-5. Place topsoil in the basin created by the retaining wall.
Add plants, vines, or flowers as necessary. Your retaining wall is ready to be enjoyed.
Tips
While excavating, cut straight down with the shovel to avoid disturbing the surrounding soil.
If the retainer wall is to be built along a slope, make stepped trenches so that only one layer of blocks will be below the soil at all points. Also, build it at the lowest end first.
To cut a block in half, mark a line around the middle with a brick chisel. Then, position the brick chisel on the line and strike it with a small sledgehammer.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:59",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Prepping Your Building Site\\n1-1. Plan and layout the site.\\nPlan where your retaining wall is going to be using stakes and string, leveling off to ensure an even height and using a tape measure to ensure an even length.\\nContact your local utilities office to confirm that there are no pipes or cables in your digging zone. Your local utilities office should perform this free of charge.\\nIf you live in the USA, you must make an 811 “Digline” call and set up a time to have your property inspected to determine the location of underground utility pipes and cables before starting any digging project. This is required by law. Make the call at least a few days before you plan to start your project.\\nIf you want more of a random outline, lay out a line for your wall using a garden hose. Simply drape the garden hose out in the general area of the proposed wall utilizing its curves. Check to see that the shape is buildable and aesthetically pleasing, and then use landscaping paint or flour to mark the ground where the garden hose was.\\n1-2. Excavate the site.\\nUsing a shovel, dig a trench along the line you have laid out. It should be slightly wider than the blocks you will use for your wall, or about 1 foot (30 cm). Check that the trench is as level as possible.\\nIf you live in the USA, you must wait until the Digline locate process is complete before you begin excavating.\\nEnough space should be made to bury the bottom row of blocks at least 1 inch (2.54 cm) for every 8 inches (20.32 cm) of wall height. Factor into this equation a level of paver base that will rest on the bottom of the trench.\\n1-3. Tamp the soil level and lay down a paver base.\\nUsing a soil tamper — you can easily rent one for less than $20 — tamp (pack) down the bottom of the trench. Then, add 4 to 6 inches (10.16-15.24 cm) of patio paver base or rock dust to the bottom of the trench. Patio paver base is ideal because it is specially made gravel that compacts well and is sturdy.\\nRake the paver base once it's been applied, getting as much uniform coverage as possible.\\nGo over the paver base one more time with a level, making sure that the trench area is a uniform height. If there's uneven distribution add a little more or take away some paver base by raking.\\nTamp the bottom of the trench again, compacting the base a final time.\\n2. Laying the Foundation\\n2-1. Begin by laying the foundation.\\nThese are the most critical blocks in your wall. If they aren't level or adequately support the top half of your retaining wall, the whole project is going to look less than professional. Make sure that the foundational blocks are leveled off, sturdy, and tightly packed together.\\n2-2. Start at the most visible edge of the wall.\\nAdd gravel or crushed rock to level the stone, if necessary. Add the first block to the trench, using a cornerstone. Make sure it is level from front to back and side to side.\\nAlternately, if there's no edge to the wall that is more visible than another, start at the edge that will be closest to another structure (usually a house).\\nIf you're building a straight or rectangular retaining wall, make sure that the backs of the blocks line up with one another perfectly; if you're building a curved retaining wall, make sure that the fronts of the blocks line up with one another perfectly.\\n2-3. Cut off the top tongue of the base stones, if necessary.\\nSome contractors prefer cutting off the top tongue or groove from the base stones before laying them down. Check for sturdiness yourself and knock the tongue off the block with a hammer and chisel, if necessary.\\nUnderstand that curved retaining walls with tongues may not benefit from the interlocking grooves. These grooves will need to be cut off with a hammer and chisel if the layout of the pattern does not fit the direction of the grooves.\\n2-4. Use coarse sand and a rubber mallet to level off the first layer of blocks.\\nThis will complete the entire foundation. If you took the time to level off the bed, laying the first row should be easy. Use coarse sand where necessary to get a level finish on your foundation. Hammer the blocks down with your rubber mallet.\\n2-5. Cut individual blocks to complete the first layer, if necessary.\\nSimply mark them at the appropriate length and cut with a mason's saw. Always use proper protection when cutting.\\n2-6. Use crushed stone or gravel for backfill on your first layer of blocks.\\nThis will provide excellent support, keeping your bottom layer from slipping back with time and erosion.\\n2-7. Place a filter fabric over the backfill.\\nThis will prevent frost heave and keeps the soil from mixing with the backfill. Depending on how tall your retaining wall is, you may want to drape the filler along the back side of the trench or house, fill the trench with backfill until it's anchored the filter fabric down, and then drape the fabric flat out, on top of the backfill.\\n2-8. Sweep the first layer with a broom.\\nThis will free up any dirt or dust.\\n3. Completing the Wall\\n3-1. Start your second layer with a staggered pattern.\\nThis is so that the top layer seams are offset with the bottom layer. You want each layer of blocks to be different from the one below it. For example, if the wall has straight edges on the ends, the next layer should start with a block that has been cut in half.\\nPlace the blocks onto the foundation before applying the adhesive. See how they look; ask yourself whether you need to make any significant cuts before gluing . Lay out one whole row before moving on to the next step.\\nIf you're working with blocks that have flanged tongues, simply line up the female groove of the top block with the male groove of the bottom block.\\n3-2. Apply the recommended adhesive to the bottom blocks, once a layer has been provisionally laid out.\\nNext, fit the top block overhead. Press down to make sure that each layer is secured tightly against the layer beneath it. Continue until retaining wall is its preferred height.\\nIf your wall is over 3 ft (.91 m) in height, you should offset each new row slightly back from the row below it, like very shallow stair steps. This will make your wall more stable and help create a better hold with the soil once you backfill.\\n3-3. Add drainage pipes to your retaining wall, if the wall is 2 feet (60 cm) or taller.\\nLook for a perforated pipe and lay it down the length of the retaining wall, covering it up with breathable backfill.\\nMake sure water can drain out of your pipe, either at the ends or through an outlet in the middle of the wall.\\n3-4. Add topper stones, if desired.\\nTopper stones usually come in rectangular shapes, making them more difficult to install in curved retaining walls. If you need to cut topper stones to fit the curve in your retaining wall, follow this trick:\\nLay stones #1 and #3 out in their pattern.\\nLay stone #2 on top of #1 and #3, drawing lines on #1 and #3 where stone #2 overlaps them.\\nCut stones #1 and #3 along those lines.\\nLine up #1 and #3 into place, snugging #2 in between.\\nRepeat, placing stone #4 on top of stones #3 and #5.\\n3-5. Place topsoil in the basin created by the retaining wall.\\nAdd plants, vines, or flowers as necessary. Your retaining wall is ready to be enjoyed.\\nTips\\nWhile excavating, cut straight down with the shovel to avoid disturbing the surrounding soil.\\nIf the retainer wall is to be built along a slope, make stepped trenches so that only one layer of blocks will be below the soil at all points. Also, build it at the lowest end first.\\nTo cut a block in half, mark a line around the middle with a brick chisel. Then, position the brick chisel on the line and strike it with a small sledgehammer.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a retaining wall will help reduce erosion, improve water drainage, and create usable garden space. It's a great home-improvement project that can be completed in a weekend whether you're a novice or an old hand. The following is a guide that will help you build your own retainer wall, tips and tricks, along with professional-grade guidance.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepping Your Building Site\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan and layout the site.\", \"描述\": \"Plan where your retaining wall is going to be using stakes and string, leveling off to ensure an even height and using a tape measure to ensure an even length.\\nContact your local utilities office to confirm that there are no pipes or cables in your digging zone. Your local utilities office should perform this free of charge.\\nIf you live in the USA, you must make an 811 “Digline” call and set up a time to have your property inspected to determine the location of underground utility pipes and cables before starting any digging project. This is required by law. Make the call at least a few days before you plan to start your project.\\nIf you want more of a random outline, lay out a line for your wall using a garden hose. Simply drape the garden hose out in the general area of the proposed wall utilizing its curves. Check to see that the shape is buildable and aesthetically pleasing, and then use landscaping paint or flour to mark the ground where the garden hose was.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Excavate the site.\", \"描述\": \"Using a shovel, dig a trench along the line you have laid out. It should be slightly wider than the blocks you will use for your wall, or about 1 foot (30 cm). Check that the trench is as level as possible.\\nIf you live in the USA, you must wait until the Digline locate process is complete before you begin excavating.\\nEnough space should be made to bury the bottom row of blocks at least 1 inch (2.54 cm) for every 8 inches (20.32 cm) of wall height. Factor into this equation a level of paver base that will rest on the bottom of the trench.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tamp the soil level and lay down a paver base.\", \"描述\": \"Using a soil tamper — you can easily rent one for less than $20 — tamp (pack) down the bottom of the trench. Then, add 4 to 6 inches (10.16-15.24 cm) of patio paver base or rock dust to the bottom of the trench. Patio paver base is ideal because it is specially made gravel that compacts well and is sturdy.\\nRake the paver base once it's been applied, getting as much uniform coverage as possible.\\nGo over the paver base one more time with a level, making sure that the trench area is a uniform height. If there's uneven distribution add a little more or take away some paver base by raking.\\nTamp the bottom of the trench again, compacting the base a final time.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Laying the Foundation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Begin by laying the foundation.\", \"描述\": \"These are the most critical blocks in your wall. If they aren't level or adequately support the top half of your retaining wall, the whole project is going to look less than professional. Make sure that the foundational blocks are leveled off, sturdy, and tightly packed together.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start at the most visible edge of the wall.\", \"描述\": \"Add gravel or crushed rock to level the stone, if necessary. Add the first block to the trench, using a cornerstone. Make sure it is level from front to back and side to side.\\nAlternately, if there's no edge to the wall that is more visible than another, start at the edge that will be closest to another structure (usually a house).\\nIf you're building a straight or rectangular retaining wall, make sure that the backs of the blocks line up with one another perfectly; if you're building a curved retaining wall, make sure that the fronts of the blocks line up with one another perfectly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut off the top tongue of the base stones, if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Some contractors prefer cutting off the top tongue or groove from the base stones before laying them down. Check for sturdiness yourself and knock the tongue off the block with a hammer and chisel, if necessary.\\nUnderstand that curved retaining walls with tongues may not benefit from the interlocking grooves. These grooves will need to be cut off with a hammer and chisel if the layout of the pattern does not fit the direction of the grooves.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use coarse sand and a rubber mallet to level off the first layer of blocks.\", \"描述\": \"This will complete the entire foundation. If you took the time to level off the bed, laying the first row should be easy. Use coarse sand where necessary to get a level finish on your foundation. Hammer the blocks down with your rubber mallet.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut individual blocks to complete the first layer, if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Simply mark them at the appropriate length and cut with a mason's saw. Always use proper protection when cutting.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Use crushed stone or gravel for backfill on your first layer of blocks.\", \"描述\": \"This will provide excellent support, keeping your bottom layer from slipping back with time and erosion.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place a filter fabric over the backfill.\", \"描述\": \"This will prevent frost heave and keeps the soil from mixing with the backfill. Depending on how tall your retaining wall is, you may want to drape the filler along the back side of the trench or house, fill the trench with backfill until it's anchored the filter fabric down, and then drape the fabric flat out, on top of the backfill.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Sweep the first layer with a broom.\", \"描述\": \"This will free up any dirt or dust.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Completing the Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start your second layer with a staggered pattern.\", \"描述\": \"This is so that the top layer seams are offset with the bottom layer. You want each layer of blocks to be different from the one below it. For example, if the wall has straight edges on the ends, the next layer should start with a block that has been cut in half.\\nPlace the blocks onto the foundation before applying the adhesive. See how they look; ask yourself whether you need to make any significant cuts before gluing . Lay out one whole row before moving on to the next step.\\nIf you're working with blocks that have flanged tongues, simply line up the female groove of the top block with the male groove of the bottom block.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply the recommended adhesive to the bottom blocks, once a layer has been provisionally laid out.\", \"描述\": \"Next, fit the top block overhead. Press down to make sure that each layer is secured tightly against the layer beneath it. Continue until retaining wall is its preferred height.\\nIf your wall is over 3 ft (.91 m) in height, you should offset each new row slightly back from the row below it, like very shallow stair steps. This will make your wall more stable and help create a better hold with the soil once you backfill.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add drainage pipes to your retaining wall, if the wall is 2 feet (60 cm) or taller.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a perforated pipe and lay it down the length of the retaining wall, covering it up with breathable backfill.\\nMake sure water can drain out of your pipe, either at the ends or through an outlet in the middle of the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add topper stones, if desired.\", \"描述\": \"Topper stones usually come in rectangular shapes, making them more difficult to install in curved retaining walls. If you need to cut topper stones to fit the curve in your retaining wall, follow this trick:\\nLay stones #1 and #3 out in their pattern.\\nLay stone #2 on top of #1 and #3, drawing lines on #1 and #3 where stone #2 overlaps them.\\nCut stones #1 and #3 along those lines.\\nLine up #1 and #3 into place, snugging #2 in between.\\nRepeat, placing stone #4 on top of stones #3 and #5.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place topsoil in the basin created by the retaining wall.\", \"描述\": \"Add plants, vines, or flowers as necessary. Your retaining wall is ready to be enjoyed.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"While excavating, cut straight down with the shovel to avoid disturbing the surrounding soil.\\n\", \"If the retainer wall is to be built along a slope, make stepped trenches so that only one layer of blocks will be below the soil at all points. Also, build it at the lowest end first.\\n\", \"To cut a block in half, mark a line around the middle with a brick chisel. Then, position the brick chisel on the line and strike it with a small sledgehammer.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,507 |
How to Build a Robot Car
|
1. Building the Chassis
1-1. Gather materials.
You'll need the following materials to build your robot car. If you're not sure what size each component should be, read over these instructions to get a feel for how they fit together.
Two motors
Two wheels
Arduino microcontroller board (the Arduino Uno is a good choice for beginners)
Motor driver shield or motor driver circuit (found in remote-controlled toy cars)
Battery holder and 6 volts of batteries (e.g. four AA batteries)
Chassis: a sheet of acrylic or plexiglass, about 6.5 x 4.5 inches (16.5 x 11.5cm)
1-2. Attach the wheels and motors to the chassis.
Thread each wheel onto one of the motors. Hot glue the motor onto the chassis as follows:
Mark two locations near one end of the chassis, opposite each other.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/4\/4a\/MarkWheel.jpeg\/460px-MarkWheel.jpeg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/4\/4a\/MarkWheel.jpeg\/728px-MarkWheel.jpeg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":307,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":486,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
Glue one motor over each location, on the upper side of the chassis. Make sure the wheel hangs over the edge so it can roll along the ground.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/7\/71\/GlueWheel.jpeg\/460px-GlueWheel.jpeg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/7\/71\/GlueWheel.jpeg\/728px-GlueWheel.jpeg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":307,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":486,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
1-3. Glue on the battery holder.
Add a dollop of hot glue to the top side of the chassis, between the wheels. Press the battery holder here and let set.
1-4. Attach the motor driver circuit.
Position the motor driver circuit near one side of the chassis, with the wires overhanging the edge.
1-5. Position the Arduino.
Glue the Arduino onto the chassis, tucked opposite the driver circuit. When positioning it, make sure you have access to the socket for plugging the Arduino into the computer.
2. Wiring the Car
2-1. Cut four lengths of wire.
You'll need four pieces of insulated wire, with each end stripped. Read this section first to find out how each wire is connected, so you can cut each one to the right length. Typically, each wire should be about 5 inches (13cm) long.
2-2. Solder two wires onto one motor.
Solder one wire onto each of the two motor pins.
Read our guide on soldering electronics first if you don't have much soldering experience.
2-3. Solder the other ends to the motor driver.
Find the motor pins on the motor driver circuit that are labeled and . Solder the other ends of the two wires onto these pins.
If your driver does not have these labels, look for a diagram of your motor driver online.
2-4. Repeat for the other motor.
Solder the other two wires to the two pins on the second motor. Solder the other ends of these wires onto the driver pins labeled and .
2-5. Connect the battery holder.
The battery holder should have two attached wires, one positive (red) and one negative (black). Connect these as follows:
Connect the positive wire to the pin on the Arduino
Connect the negative wire to the (ground) pin on the Arduino
2-6. Connect the motor driver circuit.
The motor driver has two wires as well. Connect these to the Arduino, making contact with the wires from the battery holder:
Connect the positive pin on the motor driver circuit to the Vin pin on the Arduino.
Connect the Gnd pin on the motor driver circuit to the Gnd pin on the Arduino.
If you have difficulty identifying the Arduino pins, find an online guide specific to your model.
3. Setting Up the Rx Circuit Control
3-1. Understand the process.
The hack in this section allows Arduino to drive the motors directly, without an external motor driver. The diagram shown here represents the IC (integrated circuit) on the motor driver circuit.{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/8\/8f\/ICDiagram.jpeg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/8\/8f\/ICDiagram.jpeg\/261px-ICDiagram.jpeg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":287,"bigWidth":261,"bigHeight":163,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
This section requires careful soldering. Work slowly and methodically.
3-2. Cut four wires of equal length.
These will connect the Arduino and the motor driver circuit.
3-3. Solder the wires.
Solder each wire to one pin on the integrated circuit. Take care not to make contact with a second pin. Solder as follows:
Solder one wire on to the LEFT pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The LEFT pin is 7th from the top.
Solder a wire on to the RIGHT pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The RIGHT pin is 6th from the top, just above "left."
Solder a wire on to the BACKWARD pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The BACKWARD pin is the 10th pin, exactly opposite "left."
Solder a wire on to the FORWARD pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The FORWARD pin is just above "backward," exactly opposite "right."
3-4. Connect the wires to the Arduino.
Taking care not to confuse the wires, attach each one to the Arduino as follows:
Connect the LEFT wire to pin 5 of the Arduino.
Connect the RIGHT wire to pin 6.
Connect the BACKWARD wire to pin 9.
Connect the Forward wire to pin 10.
3-5. Check your wiring.
Examine all your wiring closely. Make sure there are no unintentional connections causing a short.
4. Programming the Robot Car
4-1. Connect Arduino to a computer.
Plug the Arduino circuit into your computer. Open the Arduino software. This allows you to program your car's movements.
Arduino software is available for free online.
4-2. Upload the following code.
Type the following program into Arduino. Once finished, upload it into your circuit. This code will cause your car to move forward for 5 seconds, take a right turn, and move forward for another 5 seconds:
int Fmotor=10;// initialize all the motors
int Bmotor=9;
int Rmotor=6;
int Lmotor=5;
void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once:
pinMode( Fmotor,OUTPUT);// set them as outputs
pinMode( Bmotor,OUTPUT);
pinMode( Lmotor,OUTPUT);
pinMode( Rmotor,OUTPUT);
}
void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
digitalWrite(Fmotor,HIGH);// code for making the car go straight
digitalWrite(Lmotor,HIGH);
digitalWrite(Rmotor,LOW);// NEVER SET A MOTOR HIGH ON BOTH PINS
digitalWrite(Bmotor,LOW);
delay(5000);
digitalWrite(Rmotor,HIGH);// Take a right turn
digitalWrite(Lmotor,LOW);
digitalWrite(Bmotor,LOW);
digitalWrite(Fmotor,HIGH);
delay(800);
digitalWrite(Fmotor,HIGH);// code for making the car go straight
digitalWrite(Lmotor,HIGH);
digitalWrite(Rmotor,LOW);
digitalWrite(Bmotor,LOW);
delay(5000);
}
4-3. Start the car.
Set the car on a flat surface. Put in the batteries and watch it go! If your battery holder has a switch, flick it to turn the car on and off.
You can add your own switch by connecting the positive wire of the battery holder to the center pin of an SPST (single pole singe throw) switch. Connect the other pin of the switch to the Vin pin on the Arduino.
4-4. Play around with the code.
Change the values in the code and upload your new program to change the behavior of your car. Try changing the numbers after "delay," or see what happens when you change a LOW to a HIGH or vice versa. Just make sure never to set both pins of a single motor on HIGH at the same time.
Tips
In the code, the text snippet following the // symbols are comments. Use this to figure out what each piece of code does.
If your car doesn't drive the way you expect, try switching the values of Lmotor and Rmotor, or of Fmotor and Bmotor.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 10:59:59",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Chassis\\n1-1. Gather materials.\\nYou'll need the following materials to build your robot car. If you're not sure what size each component should be, read over these instructions to get a feel for how they fit together.\\nTwo motors\\nTwo wheels\\nArduino microcontroller board (the Arduino Uno is a good choice for beginners)\\nMotor driver shield or motor driver circuit (found in remote-controlled toy cars)\\nBattery holder and 6 volts of batteries (e.g. four AA batteries)\\nChassis: a sheet of acrylic or plexiglass, about 6.5 x 4.5 inches (16.5 x 11.5cm)\\n1-2. Attach the wheels and motors to the chassis.\\nThread each wheel onto one of the motors. Hot glue the motor onto the chassis as follows:\\nMark two locations near one end of the chassis, opposite each other.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4a\\\\/MarkWheel.jpeg\\\\/460px-MarkWheel.jpeg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4a\\\\/MarkWheel.jpeg\\\\/728px-MarkWheel.jpeg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":307,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":486,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nGlue one motor over each location, on the upper side of the chassis. Make sure the wheel hangs over the edge so it can roll along the ground.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/71\\\\/GlueWheel.jpeg\\\\/460px-GlueWheel.jpeg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/71\\\\/GlueWheel.jpeg\\\\/728px-GlueWheel.jpeg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":307,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":486,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-3. Glue on the battery holder.\\nAdd a dollop of hot glue to the top side of the chassis, between the wheels. Press the battery holder here and let set.\\n1-4. Attach the motor driver circuit.\\nPosition the motor driver circuit near one side of the chassis, with the wires overhanging the edge.\\n1-5. Position the Arduino.\\nGlue the Arduino onto the chassis, tucked opposite the driver circuit. When positioning it, make sure you have access to the socket for plugging the Arduino into the computer.\\n2. Wiring the Car\\n2-1. Cut four lengths of wire.\\nYou'll need four pieces of insulated wire, with each end stripped. Read this section first to find out how each wire is connected, so you can cut each one to the right length. Typically, each wire should be about 5 inches (13cm) long.\\n2-2. Solder two wires onto one motor.\\nSolder one wire onto each of the two motor pins.\\nRead our guide on soldering electronics first if you don't have much soldering experience.\\n2-3. Solder the other ends to the motor driver.\\nFind the motor pins on the motor driver circuit that are labeled and . Solder the other ends of the two wires onto these pins.\\nIf your driver does not have these labels, look for a diagram of your motor driver online.\\n2-4. Repeat for the other motor.\\nSolder the other two wires to the two pins on the second motor. Solder the other ends of these wires onto the driver pins labeled and .\\n2-5. Connect the battery holder.\\nThe battery holder should have two attached wires, one positive (red) and one negative (black). Connect these as follows:\\nConnect the positive wire to the pin on the Arduino\\nConnect the negative wire to the (ground) pin on the Arduino\\n2-6. Connect the motor driver circuit.\\nThe motor driver has two wires as well. Connect these to the Arduino, making contact with the wires from the battery holder:\\nConnect the positive pin on the motor driver circuit to the Vin pin on the Arduino.\\nConnect the Gnd pin on the motor driver circuit to the Gnd pin on the Arduino.\\nIf you have difficulty identifying the Arduino pins, find an online guide specific to your model.\\n3. Setting Up the Rx Circuit Control\\n3-1. Understand the process.\\nThe hack in this section allows Arduino to drive the motors directly, without an external motor driver. The diagram shown here represents the IC (integrated circuit) on the motor driver circuit.{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/8\\\\/8f\\\\/ICDiagram.jpeg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/8f\\\\/ICDiagram.jpeg\\\\/261px-ICDiagram.jpeg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":287,\\\"bigWidth\\\":261,\\\"bigHeight\\\":163,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThis section requires careful soldering. Work slowly and methodically.\\n3-2. Cut four wires of equal length.\\nThese will connect the Arduino and the motor driver circuit.\\n3-3. Solder the wires.\\nSolder each wire to one pin on the integrated circuit. Take care not to make contact with a second pin. Solder as follows:\\nSolder one wire on to the LEFT pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The LEFT pin is 7th from the top.\\nSolder a wire on to the RIGHT pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The RIGHT pin is 6th from the top, just above \\\"left.\\\"\\nSolder a wire on to the BACKWARD pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The BACKWARD pin is the 10th pin, exactly opposite \\\"left.\\\"\\nSolder a wire on to the FORWARD pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The FORWARD pin is just above \\\"backward,\\\" exactly opposite \\\"right.\\\"\\n3-4. Connect the wires to the Arduino.\\nTaking care not to confuse the wires, attach each one to the Arduino as follows:\\nConnect the LEFT wire to pin 5 of the Arduino.\\nConnect the RIGHT wire to pin 6.\\nConnect the BACKWARD wire to pin 9.\\nConnect the Forward wire to pin 10.\\n3-5. Check your wiring.\\nExamine all your wiring closely. Make sure there are no unintentional connections causing a short.\\n4. Programming the Robot Car\\n4-1. Connect Arduino to a computer.\\nPlug the Arduino circuit into your computer. Open the Arduino software. This allows you to program your car's movements.\\nArduino software is available for free online.\\n4-2. Upload the following code.\\nType the following program into Arduino. Once finished, upload it into your circuit. This code will cause your car to move forward for 5 seconds, take a right turn, and move forward for another 5 seconds:\\n\\nint Fmotor=10;// initialize all the motors\\nint Bmotor=9;\\nint Rmotor=6;\\nint Lmotor=5;\\nvoid setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once:\\n pinMode( Fmotor,OUTPUT);// set them as outputs\\n pinMode( Bmotor,OUTPUT);\\n pinMode( Lmotor,OUTPUT);\\n pinMode( Rmotor,OUTPUT);\\n}\\nvoid loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly:\\n digitalWrite(Fmotor,HIGH);// code for making the car go straight\\n digitalWrite(Lmotor,HIGH);\\n digitalWrite(Rmotor,LOW);// NEVER SET A MOTOR HIGH ON BOTH PINS\\n digitalWrite(Bmotor,LOW);\\n delay(5000);\\n digitalWrite(Rmotor,HIGH);// Take a right turn\\n digitalWrite(Lmotor,LOW);\\n digitalWrite(Bmotor,LOW);\\n digitalWrite(Fmotor,HIGH);\\n delay(800);\\n digitalWrite(Fmotor,HIGH);// code for making the car go straight\\n digitalWrite(Lmotor,HIGH);\\n digitalWrite(Rmotor,LOW);\\n digitalWrite(Bmotor,LOW);\\n delay(5000);\\n}\\n4-3. Start the car.\\nSet the car on a flat surface. Put in the batteries and watch it go! If your battery holder has a switch, flick it to turn the car on and off.\\nYou can add your own switch by connecting the positive wire of the battery holder to the center pin of an SPST (single pole singe throw) switch. Connect the other pin of the switch to the Vin pin on the Arduino.\\n4-4. Play around with the code.\\nChange the values in the code and upload your new program to change the behavior of your car. Try changing the numbers after \\\"delay,\\\" or see what happens when you change a LOW to a HIGH or vice versa. Just make sure never to set both pins of a single motor on HIGH at the same time.\\nTips\\nIn the code, the text snippet following the // symbols are comments. Use this to figure out what each piece of code does.\\nIf your car doesn't drive the way you expect, try switching the values of Lmotor and Rmotor, or of Fmotor and Bmotor.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Have you ever wanted to see your own robot car roving around? Build one with a few electronics parts, an Arduino microcontroller, and copy-paste programming. Even if you've never tried a project like this before, take the chance to practice your soldering and get familiar with some basic code.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Chassis\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather materials.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need the following materials to build your robot car. If you're not sure what size each component should be, read over these instructions to get a feel for how they fit together.\\nTwo motors\\nTwo wheels\\nArduino microcontroller board (the Arduino Uno is a good choice for beginners)\\nMotor driver shield or motor driver circuit (found in remote-controlled toy cars)\\nBattery holder and 6 volts of batteries (e.g. four AA batteries)\\nChassis: a sheet of acrylic or plexiglass, about 6.5 x 4.5 inches (16.5 x 11.5cm)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the wheels and motors to the chassis.\", \"描述\": \"Thread each wheel onto one of the motors. Hot glue the motor onto the chassis as follows:\\nMark two locations near one end of the chassis, opposite each other.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4a\\\\/MarkWheel.jpeg\\\\/460px-MarkWheel.jpeg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4a\\\\/MarkWheel.jpeg\\\\/728px-MarkWheel.jpeg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":307,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":486,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nGlue one motor over each location, on the upper side of the chassis. Make sure the wheel hangs over the edge so it can roll along the ground.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/71\\\\/GlueWheel.jpeg\\\\/460px-GlueWheel.jpeg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/71\\\\/GlueWheel.jpeg\\\\/728px-GlueWheel.jpeg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":307,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":486,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue on the battery holder.\", \"描述\": \"Add a dollop of hot glue to the top side of the chassis, between the wheels. Press the battery holder here and let set.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the motor driver circuit.\", \"描述\": \"Position the motor driver circuit near one side of the chassis, with the wires overhanging the edge.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Position the Arduino.\", \"描述\": \"Glue the Arduino onto the chassis, tucked opposite the driver circuit. When positioning it, make sure you have access to the socket for plugging the Arduino into the computer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wiring the Car\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut four lengths of wire.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need four pieces of insulated wire, with each end stripped. Read this section first to find out how each wire is connected, so you can cut each one to the right length. Typically, each wire should be about 5 inches (13cm) long.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Solder two wires onto one motor.\", \"描述\": \"Solder one wire onto each of the two motor pins.\\nRead our guide on soldering electronics first if you don't have much soldering experience.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Solder the other ends to the motor driver.\", \"描述\": \"Find the motor pins on the motor driver circuit that are labeled and . Solder the other ends of the two wires onto these pins.\\nIf your driver does not have these labels, look for a diagram of your motor driver online.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat for the other motor.\", \"描述\": \"Solder the other two wires to the two pins on the second motor. Solder the other ends of these wires onto the driver pins labeled and .\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect the battery holder.\", \"描述\": \"The battery holder should have two attached wires, one positive (red) and one negative (black). Connect these as follows:\\nConnect the positive wire to the pin on the Arduino\\nConnect the negative wire to the (ground) pin on the Arduino\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Connect the motor driver circuit.\", \"描述\": \"The motor driver has two wires as well. Connect these to the Arduino, making contact with the wires from the battery holder:\\nConnect the positive pin on the motor driver circuit to the Vin pin on the Arduino.\\nConnect the Gnd pin on the motor driver circuit to the Gnd pin on the Arduino.\\nIf you have difficulty identifying the Arduino pins, find an online guide specific to your model.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Setting Up the Rx Circuit Control\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the process.\", \"描述\": \"The hack in this section allows Arduino to drive the motors directly, without an external motor driver. The diagram shown here represents the IC (integrated circuit) on the motor driver circuit.{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/8\\\\/8f\\\\/ICDiagram.jpeg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/8f\\\\/ICDiagram.jpeg\\\\/261px-ICDiagram.jpeg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":287,\\\"bigWidth\\\":261,\\\"bigHeight\\\":163,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThis section requires careful soldering. Work slowly and methodically.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut four wires of equal length.\", \"描述\": \"These will connect the Arduino and the motor driver circuit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Solder the wires.\", \"描述\": \"Solder each wire to one pin on the integrated circuit. Take care not to make contact with a second pin. Solder as follows:\\nSolder one wire on to the LEFT pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The LEFT pin is 7th from the top.\\nSolder a wire on to the RIGHT pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The RIGHT pin is 6th from the top, just above \\\"left.\\\"\\nSolder a wire on to the BACKWARD pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The BACKWARD pin is the 10th pin, exactly opposite \\\"left.\\\"\\nSolder a wire on to the FORWARD pin shown in the IC pin diagram. The FORWARD pin is just above \\\"backward,\\\" exactly opposite \\\"right.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the wires to the Arduino.\", \"描述\": \"Taking care not to confuse the wires, attach each one to the Arduino as follows:\\nConnect the LEFT wire to pin 5 of the Arduino.\\nConnect the RIGHT wire to pin 6.\\nConnect the BACKWARD wire to pin 9.\\nConnect the Forward wire to pin 10.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Check your wiring.\", \"描述\": \"Examine all your wiring closely. Make sure there are no unintentional connections causing a short.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Programming the Robot Car\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect Arduino to a computer.\", \"描述\": \"Plug the Arduino circuit into your computer. Open the Arduino software. This allows you to program your car's movements.\\nArduino software is available for free online.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Upload the following code.\", \"描述\": \"Type the following program into Arduino. Once finished, upload it into your circuit. This code will cause your car to move forward for 5 seconds, take a right turn, and move forward for another 5 seconds:\\n\\nint Fmotor=10;// initialize all the motors\\nint Bmotor=9;\\nint Rmotor=6;\\nint Lmotor=5;\\nvoid setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once:\\n pinMode( Fmotor,OUTPUT);// set them as outputs\\n pinMode( Bmotor,OUTPUT);\\n pinMode( Lmotor,OUTPUT);\\n pinMode( Rmotor,OUTPUT);\\n}\\nvoid loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly:\\n digitalWrite(Fmotor,HIGH);// code for making the car go straight\\n digitalWrite(Lmotor,HIGH);\\n digitalWrite(Rmotor,LOW);// NEVER SET A MOTOR HIGH ON BOTH PINS\\n digitalWrite(Bmotor,LOW);\\n delay(5000);\\n digitalWrite(Rmotor,HIGH);// Take a right turn\\n digitalWrite(Lmotor,LOW);\\n digitalWrite(Bmotor,LOW);\\n digitalWrite(Fmotor,HIGH);\\n delay(800);\\n digitalWrite(Fmotor,HIGH);// code for making the car go straight\\n digitalWrite(Lmotor,HIGH);\\n digitalWrite(Rmotor,LOW);\\n digitalWrite(Bmotor,LOW);\\n delay(5000);\\n}\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Start the car.\", \"描述\": \"Set the car on a flat surface. Put in the batteries and watch it go! If your battery holder has a switch, flick it to turn the car on and off.\\nYou can add your own switch by connecting the positive wire of the battery holder to the center pin of an SPST (single pole singe throw) switch. Connect the other pin of the switch to the Vin pin on the Arduino.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Play around with the code.\", \"描述\": \"Change the values in the code and upload your new program to change the behavior of your car. Try changing the numbers after \\\"delay,\\\" or see what happens when you change a LOW to a HIGH or vice versa. Just make sure never to set both pins of a single motor on HIGH at the same time.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"In the code, the text snippet following the // symbols are comments. Use this to figure out what each piece of code does.\\n\", \"If your car doesn't drive the way you expect, try switching the values of Lmotor and Rmotor, or of Fmotor and Bmotor.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,508 |
How to Build a Robot at Home
|
1. Assembling the Robot
1-1. Gather your components.
To build a basic robot, you'll need several simple components. You can find most, if not all, of these components at your local electronics hobby shop, or several online retailers. In fact, some basic kits may include all of these components as well. This robot does not require any soldering:
Arduino Uno (or other microcontroller)
2 continuous rotation servos
2 wheels that fit the servos
1 caster roller
1 small solderless breadboard (look for a breadboard that has two positive and negative lines on each side)
1 distance sensor (with four-pin connector cable)
1 mini push-button switch
1 10kΩ resistor
1 USB A to B cable
1 set of breakaway headers
1 6 x AA battery holder with 9V DC power jack
1 pack of jumper wires or 22-gauge hook-up wire
Strong double-sided tape or hot glue
1-2. Flip the battery pack over so that the flat back is facing up.
You'll be building the robot's body using the battery pack as a base.
1-3. Align the two servos on the end of the battery pack.
This should be the end that the battery pack's wire is coming out of The servos should be touching bottoms, and the rotating mechanisms of each should be facing out the sides of the battery pack. The servos must be properly aligned so that the wheels go straight. The wires for the servos should be coming off the back of the battery pack.
1-4. Affix the servos with your tape or glue.
Make sure that they are solidly attached to the battery pack. The backs of the servos should be aligned flush with the back of the battery pack.
The servos should now be taking up the back half of the battery pack.
1-5. Affix the breadboard perpendicularly on the open space on the battery pack.
It should hang over the front of the battery pack just a little bit and will extend beyond each side. Make sure that it is securely fastened before proceeding. The "A" row should be closest to the servos.
1-6. Attach the Arduino microcontroller to the tops of the servos.
If you attached the servos properly, there should be a flat space made by them touching. Stick the Arduino board onto this flat space so that the Arduino's USB and Power connectors are facing the back (away from the breadboard). The front of the Arduino should be just barely overlapping the breadboard.
1-7. Put the wheels on the servos.
Firmly press the wheels onto the rotating mechanism of the servo. This may require a significant amount of force, as the wheels are designed to fit as tightly as possible for the best traction.
1-8. Attach the caster to the bottom of the breadboard.
If you flip the chassis over, you should see a bit of breadboard extending past the battery pack. Attach the caster to this extended piece, using risers if necessary. The caster acts as the front wheel, allowing the robot to easily turn in any direction.
If you bought a kit, the caster may have come with a few risers that you can use to ensure the caster reaches the ground. i
2. Wiring the Robot
2-1. Break off two 3-pin headers.
You'll be using these to connect the servos to the breadboard. Push the pins down through the header so that the pins come out at an equal distance on both sides.
2-2. Insert the two headers into pins 1-3 and 6-8 on row E of the breadboard.
Make sure that they are firmly inserted.
2-3. Connect the servo cables to the headers, with the black cable on the left side (pins 1 and 6).
This will connect the servos to the breadboard. Make sure the left servo is connected to the left header and the right servo to the right header.
2-4. Connect red jumper wires from pins C2 and C7 to red (positive) rail pins.
Make sure you use the red rail on the back of the breadboard (closer to the rest of the chassis).
2-5. Connect black jumper wires from pins B1 and B6 to blue (ground) rail pins.
Make sure that you use the blue rail on the back of the breadboard. Do not plug them into the red rail pins.
2-6. Connect white jumper wires from pins 12 and 13 on the Arduino to A3 and A8.
This will allow the Arduino to control the servos and turn the wheels.
2-7. Attach the sensor to the front of the breadboard.
It does not get plugged into the outer power rails on the breadboard, but instead into the first row of lettered pins (J). Make sure you place it in the exact center, with an equal number of pins available on each side.
2-8. Connect a black jumper wire from pin I14 to the first available blue rail pin on the left of the sensor.
This will ground the sensor.
2-9. Connect a red jumper wire from pin I17 to the first available red rail pin to the right of the sensor.
This will power the sensor.
2-10. Connect white jumper wires from pin I15 to pin 9 on the Arduino, and from I16 to pin 8.
This will feed information from the sensor to the microcontroller.
3. Wiring the Power
3-1. Flip the robot on its side so that you can see the batteries in the pack.
Orient it so that the battery pack cable is coming out to the left at the bottom.
3-2. Connect a red wire to the second spring from the left on the bottom.
Make sure that the battery pack is oriented correctly.
3-3. Connect a black wire to the last spring on the bottom-right.
These two cables will help provide the correct voltage to the Arduino.
3-4. Connect the red and black wires to the far-right red and blue pins on the back of the breadboard.
The black cable should be plugged into the blue rail pin at pin 30. The red cable should be plugged into the red rail pin at pin 30.
3-5. Connect a black wire from the GND pin on the Arduino to the back blue rail.
Connect it at pin 28 on the blue rail.
3-6. Connect a black wire from the back blue rail to the front blue rail at pin 29 for each.
Do not connect the red rails, as you will likely damage the Arduino.
3-7. Connect a red wire from the front red rail at pin 30 to the 5V pin on the Arduino.
This will provide power to the Arduino.
3-8. Insert the push button switch in the gap between rows on pins 24-26.
This switch will allow you to turn off the robot without having to unplug the power.
3-9. Connect a red wire from H24 to the red rail in the next available pin to the right of the sensor.
This will power the button.
3-10. Use the resistor to connect H26 to the blue rail.
Connect it to the pin directly next to the black wire that you connected a few steps ago.
3-11. Connect a white wire from G26 to pin 2 on the Arduino.
This will allow the Arduino to register the push button.
4. Installing the Arduino Software
4-1. Download and extract the Arduino IDE.
This is the Arduino development environment and allows you to program instructions that you can then upload to your Arduino microcontroller. You can download it for free from arduino.cc/en/main/software. Unzip the downloaded file by double-clicking it and move the folder inside to an easy to access location. You won't be actually installing the program. Instead, you'll just run it from the extracted folder by double-clicking arduino.exe.
4-2. Connect the battery pack to the Arduino.
Plug the battery back jack into the connector on the Arduino to give it power.
4-3. Plug the Arduino into your computer via USB.
Windows will likely not recognize the device.
4-4. Press .
⊞ Win+R devmgmt.msc This will launch the Device Manager.
4-5. Right-click on the "Unknown device" in the "Other devices" section and select "Update Driver Software."
If you don't see this option, click "Properties" instead, select the "Driver" tab, and then click "Update Driver."
4-6. Select "Browse my computer for driver software."
This will allow you to select the driver that came with the Arduino IDE.
4-7. Click "Browse" then navigate to the folder that you extracted earlier.
You'll find a "drivers" folder inside.
4-8. Select the "drivers" folder and click "OK."
Confirm that you want to proceed if you're warned about unknown software.
5. Programming the Robot
5-1. Start the Arduino IDE by double-clicking the arduino.exe file in the IDE folder.
You'll be greeted with a blank project.
5-2. Paste the following code to make your robot go straight.
The code below will make your Arduino continuously move forward.
#include <Servo.h> // this adds the "Servo" library to the program
// the following creates two servo objects
Servo leftMotor;
Servo rightMotor;
void setup()
{
leftMotor.attach(12); // if you accidentally switched up the pin numbers for your servos, you can swap the numbers here
rightMotor.attach(13);
}
void loop()
{
leftMotor.write(180); // with continuous rotation, 180 tells the servo to move at full speed "forward."
rightMotor. write(0); // if both of these are at 180, the robot will go in a circle because the servos are flipped. "0," tells it to move full speed "backward."
}
5-3. Build and upload the program.
Click the right arrow button in the upper-left corner to build and upload the program to the connected Arduino.
You may want to lift the robot off of the surface, as it will just continue to move forward once the program is uploaded.
5-4. Add the kill switch functionality.
Add the following code to the "void loop()" section of your code to enable the kill switch, above the "write()" functions.
if(digitalRead(2) == HIGH) // this registers when the button is pressed on pin 2 of the Arduino
{
while(1)
{
leftMotor.write(90); // "90" is neutral position for the servos, which tells them to stop turning
rightMotor.write(90);
}
}
5-5. Upload and test your code.
With the kill switch code added, you can upload and test the robot. It should continue to drive forward until you press the switch, at which point it will stop moving. The full code should look like this:
#include <Servo.h>
// the following creates two servo objects
Servo leftMotor;
Servo rightMotor;
void setup()
{
leftMotor.attach(12);
rightMotor.attach(13);
}
void loop()
{
if(digitalRead(2) == HIGH)
{
while(1)
{
leftMotor.write(90);
rightMotor.write(90);
}
}
leftMotor.write(180);
rightMotor.write(0);
}
6. Example
Follow an example.
The following code will use the sensor attached to the robot to make it turn to the left whenever it encounters an obstacle. See the comments in the code for details about what each part does. The code below is the entire program.
#include <Servo.h>
Servo leftMotor;
Servo rightMotor;
const int serialPeriod = 250; // this limits output to the console to once every 1/4 second
unsigned long timeSerialDelay = 0;
const int loopPeriod = 20; // this sets how often the sensor takes a reading to 20ms, which is a frequency of 50Hz
unsigned long timeLoopDelay = 0;
// this assigns the TRIG and ECHO functions to the pins on the Arduino. Make adjustments to the numbers here if you connected differently
const int ultrasonic2TrigPin = 8;
const int ultrasonic2EchoPin = 9;
int ultrasonic2Distance;
int ultrasonic2Duration;
// this defines the two possible states for the robot: driving forward or turning left
#define DRIVE_FORWARD 0
#define TURN_LEFT 1
int state = DRIVE_FORWARD; // 0 = drive forward (DEFAULT), 1 = turn left
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(9600);
// these sensor pin configurations
pinMode(ultrasonic2TrigPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(ultrasonic2EchoPin, INPUT);
// this assigns the motors to the Arduino pins
leftMotor.attach(12);
rightMotor.attach(13);
}
void loop()
{
if(digitalRead(2) == HIGH) // this detects the kill switch
{
while(1)
{
leftMotor.write(90);
rightMotor.write(90);
}
}
debugOutput(); // this prints debugging messages to the serial console
if(millis() - timeLoopDelay >= loopPeriod)
{
readUltrasonicSensors(); // this instructs the sensor to read and store the measured distances
stateMachine();
timeLoopDelay = millis();
}
}
void stateMachine()
{
if(state == DRIVE_FORWARD) // if no obstacles detected
{
if(ultrasonic2Distance > 6 || ultrasonic2Distance < 0) // if there's nothing in front of the robot. ultrasonicDistance will be negative for some ultrasonics if there is no obstacle
{
// drive forward
rightMotor.write(180);
leftMotor.write(0);
}
else // if there's an object in front of us
{
state = TURN_LEFT;
}
}
else if(state == TURN_LEFT) // if an obstacle is detected, turn left
{
unsigned long timeToTurnLeft = 500; // it takes around .5 seconds to turn 90 degrees. You may need to adjust this if your wheels are a different size than the example
unsigned long turnStartTime = millis(); // save the time that we started turning
while((millis()-turnStartTime) < timeToTurnLeft) // stay in this loop until timeToTurnLeft has elapsed
{
// turn left, remember that when both are set to "180" it will turn.
rightMotor.write(180);
leftMotor.write(180);
}
state = DRIVE_FORWARD;
}
}
void readUltrasonicSensors()
{
// this is for ultrasonic 2. You may need to change these commands if you use a different sensor.
digitalWrite(ultrasonic2TrigPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(10); // keeps the trig pin high for at least 10 microseconds
digitalWrite(ultrasonic2TrigPin, LOW);
ultrasonic2Duration = pulseIn(ultrasonic2EchoPin, HIGH);
ultrasonic2Distance = (ultrasonic2Duration/2)/29;
}
// the following is for debugging errors in the console.
void debugOutput()
{
if((millis() - timeSerialDelay) > serialPeriod)
{
Serial.print("ultrasonic2Distance: ");
Serial.print(ultrasonic2Distance);
Serial.print("cm");
Serial.println();
timeSerialDelay = millis();
}
}
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:00",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling the Robot\\n1-1. Gather your components.\\nTo build a basic robot, you'll need several simple components. You can find most, if not all, of these components at your local electronics hobby shop, or several online retailers. In fact, some basic kits may include all of these components as well. This robot does not require any soldering:\\nArduino Uno (or other microcontroller)\\n2 continuous rotation servos\\n2 wheels that fit the servos\\n1 caster roller\\n1 small solderless breadboard (look for a breadboard that has two positive and negative lines on each side)\\n1 distance sensor (with four-pin connector cable)\\n1 mini push-button switch\\n1 10kΩ resistor\\n1 USB A to B cable\\n1 set of breakaway headers\\n1 6 x AA battery holder with 9V DC power jack\\n1 pack of jumper wires or 22-gauge hook-up wire\\nStrong double-sided tape or hot glue\\n1-2. Flip the battery pack over so that the flat back is facing up.\\nYou'll be building the robot's body using the battery pack as a base.\\n1-3. Align the two servos on the end of the battery pack.\\nThis should be the end that the battery pack's wire is coming out of The servos should be touching bottoms, and the rotating mechanisms of each should be facing out the sides of the battery pack. The servos must be properly aligned so that the wheels go straight. The wires for the servos should be coming off the back of the battery pack.\\n1-4. Affix the servos with your tape or glue.\\nMake sure that they are solidly attached to the battery pack. The backs of the servos should be aligned flush with the back of the battery pack.\\nThe servos should now be taking up the back half of the battery pack.\\n1-5. Affix the breadboard perpendicularly on the open space on the battery pack.\\nIt should hang over the front of the battery pack just a little bit and will extend beyond each side. Make sure that it is securely fastened before proceeding. The \\\"A\\\" row should be closest to the servos.\\n1-6. Attach the Arduino microcontroller to the tops of the servos.\\nIf you attached the servos properly, there should be a flat space made by them touching. Stick the Arduino board onto this flat space so that the Arduino's USB and Power connectors are facing the back (away from the breadboard). The front of the Arduino should be just barely overlapping the breadboard.\\n1-7. Put the wheels on the servos.\\nFirmly press the wheels onto the rotating mechanism of the servo. This may require a significant amount of force, as the wheels are designed to fit as tightly as possible for the best traction.\\n1-8. Attach the caster to the bottom of the breadboard.\\nIf you flip the chassis over, you should see a bit of breadboard extending past the battery pack. Attach the caster to this extended piece, using risers if necessary. The caster acts as the front wheel, allowing the robot to easily turn in any direction.\\nIf you bought a kit, the caster may have come with a few risers that you can use to ensure the caster reaches the ground. i\\n2. Wiring the Robot\\n2-1. Break off two 3-pin headers.\\nYou'll be using these to connect the servos to the breadboard. Push the pins down through the header so that the pins come out at an equal distance on both sides.\\n2-2. Insert the two headers into pins 1-3 and 6-8 on row E of the breadboard.\\nMake sure that they are firmly inserted.\\n2-3. Connect the servo cables to the headers, with the black cable on the left side (pins 1 and 6).\\nThis will connect the servos to the breadboard. Make sure the left servo is connected to the left header and the right servo to the right header.\\n2-4. Connect red jumper wires from pins C2 and C7 to red (positive) rail pins.\\nMake sure you use the red rail on the back of the breadboard (closer to the rest of the chassis).\\n2-5. Connect black jumper wires from pins B1 and B6 to blue (ground) rail pins.\\nMake sure that you use the blue rail on the back of the breadboard. Do not plug them into the red rail pins.\\n2-6. Connect white jumper wires from pins 12 and 13 on the Arduino to A3 and A8.\\nThis will allow the Arduino to control the servos and turn the wheels.\\n2-7. Attach the sensor to the front of the breadboard.\\nIt does not get plugged into the outer power rails on the breadboard, but instead into the first row of lettered pins (J). Make sure you place it in the exact center, with an equal number of pins available on each side.\\n2-8. Connect a black jumper wire from pin I14 to the first available blue rail pin on the left of the sensor.\\nThis will ground the sensor.\\n2-9. Connect a red jumper wire from pin I17 to the first available red rail pin to the right of the sensor.\\nThis will power the sensor.\\n2-10. Connect white jumper wires from pin I15 to pin 9 on the Arduino, and from I16 to pin 8.\\nThis will feed information from the sensor to the microcontroller.\\n3. Wiring the Power\\n3-1. Flip the robot on its side so that you can see the batteries in the pack.\\nOrient it so that the battery pack cable is coming out to the left at the bottom.\\n3-2. Connect a red wire to the second spring from the left on the bottom.\\nMake sure that the battery pack is oriented correctly.\\n3-3. Connect a black wire to the last spring on the bottom-right.\\nThese two cables will help provide the correct voltage to the Arduino.\\n3-4. Connect the red and black wires to the far-right red and blue pins on the back of the breadboard.\\nThe black cable should be plugged into the blue rail pin at pin 30. The red cable should be plugged into the red rail pin at pin 30.\\n3-5. Connect a black wire from the GND pin on the Arduino to the back blue rail.\\nConnect it at pin 28 on the blue rail.\\n3-6. Connect a black wire from the back blue rail to the front blue rail at pin 29 for each.\\nDo not connect the red rails, as you will likely damage the Arduino.\\n3-7. Connect a red wire from the front red rail at pin 30 to the 5V pin on the Arduino.\\nThis will provide power to the Arduino.\\n3-8. Insert the push button switch in the gap between rows on pins 24-26.\\nThis switch will allow you to turn off the robot without having to unplug the power.\\n3-9. Connect a red wire from H24 to the red rail in the next available pin to the right of the sensor.\\nThis will power the button.\\n3-10. Use the resistor to connect H26 to the blue rail.\\nConnect it to the pin directly next to the black wire that you connected a few steps ago.\\n3-11. Connect a white wire from G26 to pin 2 on the Arduino.\\nThis will allow the Arduino to register the push button.\\n4. Installing the Arduino Software\\n4-1. Download and extract the Arduino IDE.\\nThis is the Arduino development environment and allows you to program instructions that you can then upload to your Arduino microcontroller. You can download it for free from arduino.cc/en/main/software. Unzip the downloaded file by double-clicking it and move the folder inside to an easy to access location. You won't be actually installing the program. Instead, you'll just run it from the extracted folder by double-clicking arduino.exe.\\n4-2. Connect the battery pack to the Arduino.\\nPlug the battery back jack into the connector on the Arduino to give it power.\\n4-3. Plug the Arduino into your computer via USB.\\nWindows will likely not recognize the device.\\n4-4. Press .\\n⊞ Win+R devmgmt.msc This will launch the Device Manager.\\n4-5. Right-click on the \\\"Unknown device\\\" in the \\\"Other devices\\\" section and select \\\"Update Driver Software.\\\"\\nIf you don't see this option, click \\\"Properties\\\" instead, select the \\\"Driver\\\" tab, and then click \\\"Update Driver.\\\"\\n4-6. Select \\\"Browse my computer for driver software.\\\"\\nThis will allow you to select the driver that came with the Arduino IDE.\\n4-7. Click \\\"Browse\\\" then navigate to the folder that you extracted earlier.\\nYou'll find a \\\"drivers\\\" folder inside.\\n4-8. Select the \\\"drivers\\\" folder and click \\\"OK.\\\"\\nConfirm that you want to proceed if you're warned about unknown software.\\n5. Programming the Robot\\n5-1. Start the Arduino IDE by double-clicking the arduino.exe file in the IDE folder.\\nYou'll be greeted with a blank project.\\n5-2. Paste the following code to make your robot go straight.\\nThe code below will make your Arduino continuously move forward.\\n#include <Servo.h> // this adds the \\\"Servo\\\" library to the program\\n// the following creates two servo objects\\nServo leftMotor;\\nServo rightMotor;\\nvoid setup()\\n{\\n leftMotor.attach(12); // if you accidentally switched up the pin numbers for your servos, you can swap the numbers here\\n rightMotor.attach(13);\\n}\\n\\nvoid loop()\\n{\\n leftMotor.write(180); // with continuous rotation, 180 tells the servo to move at full speed \\\"forward.\\\"\\n rightMotor. write(0); // if both of these are at 180, the robot will go in a circle because the servos are flipped. \\\"0,\\\" tells it to move full speed \\\"backward.\\\"\\n}\\n5-3. Build and upload the program.\\nClick the right arrow button in the upper-left corner to build and upload the program to the connected Arduino.\\nYou may want to lift the robot off of the surface, as it will just continue to move forward once the program is uploaded.\\n5-4. Add the kill switch functionality.\\nAdd the following code to the \\\"void loop()\\\" section of your code to enable the kill switch, above the \\\"write()\\\" functions.\\nif(digitalRead(2) == HIGH) // this registers when the button is pressed on pin 2 of the Arduino\\n{\\n while(1)\\n {\\n leftMotor.write(90); // \\\"90\\\" is neutral position for the servos, which tells them to stop turning\\n rightMotor.write(90);\\n }\\n}\\n5-5. Upload and test your code.\\nWith the kill switch code added, you can upload and test the robot. It should continue to drive forward until you press the switch, at which point it will stop moving. The full code should look like this:\\n#include <Servo.h>\\n// the following creates two servo objects\\nServo leftMotor;\\nServo rightMotor;\\nvoid setup()\\n{\\n leftMotor.attach(12); \\n rightMotor.attach(13);\\n}\\n\\nvoid loop()\\n{\\n if(digitalRead(2) == HIGH) \\n {\\n while(1)\\n {\\n leftMotor.write(90); \\n rightMotor.write(90);\\n }\\n }\\n leftMotor.write(180); \\n rightMotor.write(0); \\n}\\n6. Example\\nFollow an example.\\nThe following code will use the sensor attached to the robot to make it turn to the left whenever it encounters an obstacle. See the comments in the code for details about what each part does. The code below is the entire program.\\n\\n#include <Servo.h>\\nServo leftMotor;\\nServo rightMotor;\\nconst int serialPeriod = 250; // this limits output to the console to once every 1/4 second\\nunsigned long timeSerialDelay = 0;\\nconst int loopPeriod = 20; // this sets how often the sensor takes a reading to 20ms, which is a frequency of 50Hz\\nunsigned long timeLoopDelay = 0;\\n// this assigns the TRIG and ECHO functions to the pins on the Arduino. Make adjustments to the numbers here if you connected differently\\nconst int ultrasonic2TrigPin = 8;\\nconst int ultrasonic2EchoPin = 9;\\nint ultrasonic2Distance;\\nint ultrasonic2Duration;\\n// this defines the two possible states for the robot: driving forward or turning left\\n#define DRIVE_FORWARD 0\\n#define TURN_LEFT 1\\nint state = DRIVE_FORWARD; // 0 = drive forward (DEFAULT), 1 = turn left\\nvoid setup()\\n{\\n Serial.begin(9600);\\n \\n // these sensor pin configurations\\n pinMode(ultrasonic2TrigPin, OUTPUT);\\n pinMode(ultrasonic2EchoPin, INPUT);\\n \\n // this assigns the motors to the Arduino pins\\n leftMotor.attach(12);\\n rightMotor.attach(13);\\n}\\n\\nvoid loop()\\n{\\n if(digitalRead(2) == HIGH) // this detects the kill switch\\n {\\n while(1)\\n {\\n leftMotor.write(90);\\n rightMotor.write(90);\\n }\\n }\\n debugOutput(); // this prints debugging messages to the serial console\\n \\n if(millis() - timeLoopDelay >= loopPeriod)\\n {\\n readUltrasonicSensors(); // this instructs the sensor to read and store the measured distances\\n \\n stateMachine();\\n \\n timeLoopDelay = millis();\\n }\\n}\\n\\nvoid stateMachine()\\n{\\n if(state == DRIVE_FORWARD) // if no obstacles detected\\n {\\n if(ultrasonic2Distance > 6 || ultrasonic2Distance < 0) // if there's nothing in front of the robot. ultrasonicDistance will be negative for some ultrasonics if there is no obstacle\\n {\\n // drive forward\\n rightMotor.write(180);\\n leftMotor.write(0);\\n }\\n else // if there's an object in front of us\\n {\\n state = TURN_LEFT;\\n }\\n }\\n else if(state == TURN_LEFT) // if an obstacle is detected, turn left\\n {\\n unsigned long timeToTurnLeft = 500; // it takes around .5 seconds to turn 90 degrees. You may need to adjust this if your wheels are a different size than the example\\n \\n unsigned long turnStartTime = millis(); // save the time that we started turning\\n while((millis()-turnStartTime) < timeToTurnLeft) // stay in this loop until timeToTurnLeft has elapsed\\n {\\n // turn left, remember that when both are set to \\\"180\\\" it will turn.\\n rightMotor.write(180);\\n leftMotor.write(180);\\n }\\n \\n state = DRIVE_FORWARD;\\n }\\n}\\n\\nvoid readUltrasonicSensors()\\n{\\n // this is for ultrasonic 2. You may need to change these commands if you use a different sensor.\\n digitalWrite(ultrasonic2TrigPin, HIGH);\\n delayMicroseconds(10); // keeps the trig pin high for at least 10 microseconds\\n digitalWrite(ultrasonic2TrigPin, LOW);\\n \\n ultrasonic2Duration = pulseIn(ultrasonic2EchoPin, HIGH);\\n ultrasonic2Distance = (ultrasonic2Duration/2)/29;\\n}\\n// the following is for debugging errors in the console.\\nvoid debugOutput()\\n{\\n if((millis() - timeSerialDelay) > serialPeriod)\\n {\\n Serial.print(\\\"ultrasonic2Distance: \\\");\\n Serial.print(ultrasonic2Distance);\\n Serial.print(\\\"cm\\\");\\n Serial.println();\\n \\n timeSerialDelay = millis();\\n }\\n}\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you want to learn how to build your own robot? There are a lot of different types of robots that you can make by yourself. Most people want to see a robot perform the simple tasks of moving from point A to point B. You can make a robot completely from analog components or buy a starter kit from scratch! Building your own robot is a great way to teach yourself both electronics as well as computer programming.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Robot\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your components.\", \"描述\": \"To build a basic robot, you'll need several simple components. You can find most, if not all, of these components at your local electronics hobby shop, or several online retailers. In fact, some basic kits may include all of these components as well. This robot does not require any soldering:\\nArduino Uno (or other microcontroller)\\n2 continuous rotation servos\\n2 wheels that fit the servos\\n1 caster roller\\n1 small solderless breadboard (look for a breadboard that has two positive and negative lines on each side)\\n1 distance sensor (with four-pin connector cable)\\n1 mini push-button switch\\n1 10kΩ resistor\\n1 USB A to B cable\\n1 set of breakaway headers\\n1 6 x AA battery holder with 9V DC power jack\\n1 pack of jumper wires or 22-gauge hook-up wire\\nStrong double-sided tape or hot glue\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Flip the battery pack over so that the flat back is facing up.\", \"描述\": \"You'll be building the robot's body using the battery pack as a base.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Align the two servos on the end of the battery pack.\", \"描述\": \"This should be the end that the battery pack's wire is coming out of The servos should be touching bottoms, and the rotating mechanisms of each should be facing out the sides of the battery pack. The servos must be properly aligned so that the wheels go straight. The wires for the servos should be coming off the back of the battery pack.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Affix the servos with your tape or glue.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that they are solidly attached to the battery pack. The backs of the servos should be aligned flush with the back of the battery pack.\\nThe servos should now be taking up the back half of the battery pack.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Affix the breadboard perpendicularly on the open space on the battery pack.\", \"描述\": \"It should hang over the front of the battery pack just a little bit and will extend beyond each side. Make sure that it is securely fastened before proceeding. The \\\"A\\\" row should be closest to the servos.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the Arduino microcontroller to the tops of the servos.\", \"描述\": \"If you attached the servos properly, there should be a flat space made by them touching. Stick the Arduino board onto this flat space so that the Arduino's USB and Power connectors are facing the back (away from the breadboard). The front of the Arduino should be just barely overlapping the breadboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Put the wheels on the servos.\", \"描述\": \"Firmly press the wheels onto the rotating mechanism of the servo. This may require a significant amount of force, as the wheels are designed to fit as tightly as possible for the best traction.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach the caster to the bottom of the breadboard.\", \"描述\": \"If you flip the chassis over, you should see a bit of breadboard extending past the battery pack. Attach the caster to this extended piece, using risers if necessary. The caster acts as the front wheel, allowing the robot to easily turn in any direction.\\nIf you bought a kit, the caster may have come with a few risers that you can use to ensure the caster reaches the ground. i\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wiring the Robot\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Break off two 3-pin headers.\", \"描述\": \"You'll be using these to connect the servos to the breadboard. Push the pins down through the header so that the pins come out at an equal distance on both sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Insert the two headers into pins 1-3 and 6-8 on row E of the breadboard.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that they are firmly inserted.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the servo cables to the headers, with the black cable on the left side (pins 1 and 6).\", \"描述\": \"This will connect the servos to the breadboard. Make sure the left servo is connected to the left header and the right servo to the right header.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect red jumper wires from pins C2 and C7 to red (positive) rail pins.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you use the red rail on the back of the breadboard (closer to the rest of the chassis).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect black jumper wires from pins B1 and B6 to blue (ground) rail pins.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that you use the blue rail on the back of the breadboard. Do not plug them into the red rail pins.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Connect white jumper wires from pins 12 and 13 on the Arduino to A3 and A8.\", \"描述\": \"This will allow the Arduino to control the servos and turn the wheels.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the sensor to the front of the breadboard.\", \"描述\": \"It does not get plugged into the outer power rails on the breadboard, but instead into the first row of lettered pins (J). Make sure you place it in the exact center, with an equal number of pins available on each side.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Connect a black jumper wire from pin I14 to the first available blue rail pin on the left of the sensor.\", \"描述\": \"This will ground the sensor.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Connect a red jumper wire from pin I17 to the first available red rail pin to the right of the sensor.\", \"描述\": \"This will power the sensor.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Connect white jumper wires from pin I15 to pin 9 on the Arduino, and from I16 to pin 8.\", \"描述\": \"This will feed information from the sensor to the microcontroller.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wiring the Power\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Flip the robot on its side so that you can see the batteries in the pack.\", \"描述\": \"Orient it so that the battery pack cable is coming out to the left at the bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect a red wire to the second spring from the left on the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the battery pack is oriented correctly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect a black wire to the last spring on the bottom-right.\", \"描述\": \"These two cables will help provide the correct voltage to the Arduino.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the red and black wires to the far-right red and blue pins on the back of the breadboard.\", \"描述\": \"The black cable should be plugged into the blue rail pin at pin 30. The red cable should be plugged into the red rail pin at pin 30.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect a black wire from the GND pin on the Arduino to the back blue rail.\", \"描述\": \"Connect it at pin 28 on the blue rail.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Connect a black wire from the back blue rail to the front blue rail at pin 29 for each.\", \"描述\": \"Do not connect the red rails, as you will likely damage the Arduino.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Connect a red wire from the front red rail at pin 30 to the 5V pin on the Arduino.\", \"描述\": \"This will provide power to the Arduino.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Insert the push button switch in the gap between rows on pins 24-26.\", \"描述\": \"This switch will allow you to turn off the robot without having to unplug the power.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Connect a red wire from H24 to the red rail in the next available pin to the right of the sensor.\", \"描述\": \"This will power the button.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Use the resistor to connect H26 to the blue rail.\", \"描述\": \"Connect it to the pin directly next to the black wire that you connected a few steps ago.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Connect a white wire from G26 to pin 2 on the Arduino.\", \"描述\": \"This will allow the Arduino to register the push button.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Installing the Arduino Software\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Download and extract the Arduino IDE.\", \"描述\": \"This is the Arduino development environment and allows you to program instructions that you can then upload to your Arduino microcontroller. You can download it for free from arduino.cc/en/main/software. Unzip the downloaded file by double-clicking it and move the folder inside to an easy to access location. You won't be actually installing the program. Instead, you'll just run it from the extracted folder by double-clicking arduino.exe.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect the battery pack to the Arduino.\", \"描述\": \"Plug the battery back jack into the connector on the Arduino to give it power.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plug the Arduino into your computer via USB.\", \"描述\": \"Windows will likely not recognize the device.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Press .\", \"描述\": \"⊞ Win+R devmgmt.msc This will launch the Device Manager.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Right-click on the \\\"Unknown device\\\" in the \\\"Other devices\\\" section and select \\\"Update Driver Software.\\\"\", \"描述\": \"If you don't see this option, click \\\"Properties\\\" instead, select the \\\"Driver\\\" tab, and then click \\\"Update Driver.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Select \\\"Browse my computer for driver software.\\\"\", \"描述\": \"This will allow you to select the driver that came with the Arduino IDE.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Click \\\"Browse\\\" then navigate to the folder that you extracted earlier.\", \"描述\": \"You'll find a \\\"drivers\\\" folder inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Select the \\\"drivers\\\" folder and click \\\"OK.\\\"\", \"描述\": \"Confirm that you want to proceed if you're warned about unknown software.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Programming the Robot\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start the Arduino IDE by double-clicking the arduino.exe file in the IDE folder.\", \"描述\": \"You'll be greeted with a blank project.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paste the following code to make your robot go straight.\", \"描述\": \"The code below will make your Arduino continuously move forward.\\n#include <Servo.h> // this adds the \\\"Servo\\\" library to the program\\n// the following creates two servo objects\\nServo leftMotor;\\nServo rightMotor;\\nvoid setup()\\n{\\n leftMotor.attach(12); // if you accidentally switched up the pin numbers for your servos, you can swap the numbers here\\n rightMotor.attach(13);\\n}\\n\\nvoid loop()\\n{\\n leftMotor.write(180); // with continuous rotation, 180 tells the servo to move at full speed \\\"forward.\\\"\\n rightMotor. write(0); // if both of these are at 180, the robot will go in a circle because the servos are flipped. \\\"0,\\\" tells it to move full speed \\\"backward.\\\"\\n}\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build and upload the program.\", \"描述\": \"Click the right arrow button in the upper-left corner to build and upload the program to the connected Arduino.\\nYou may want to lift the robot off of the surface, as it will just continue to move forward once the program is uploaded.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the kill switch functionality.\", \"描述\": \"Add the following code to the \\\"void loop()\\\" section of your code to enable the kill switch, above the \\\"write()\\\" functions.\\nif(digitalRead(2) == HIGH) // this registers when the button is pressed on pin 2 of the Arduino\\n{\\n while(1)\\n {\\n leftMotor.write(90); // \\\"90\\\" is neutral position for the servos, which tells them to stop turning\\n rightMotor.write(90);\\n }\\n}\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Upload and test your code.\", \"描述\": \"With the kill switch code added, you can upload and test the robot. It should continue to drive forward until you press the switch, at which point it will stop moving. The full code should look like this:\\n#include <Servo.h>\\n// the following creates two servo objects\\nServo leftMotor;\\nServo rightMotor;\\nvoid setup()\\n{\\n leftMotor.attach(12); \\n rightMotor.attach(13);\\n}\\n\\nvoid loop()\\n{\\n if(digitalRead(2) == HIGH) \\n {\\n while(1)\\n {\\n leftMotor.write(90); \\n rightMotor.write(90);\\n }\\n }\\n leftMotor.write(180); \\n rightMotor.write(0); \\n}\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Example\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Follow an example.\", \"描述\": \"The following code will use the sensor attached to the robot to make it turn to the left whenever it encounters an obstacle. See the comments in the code for details about what each part does. The code below is the entire program.\\n\\n#include <Servo.h>\\nServo leftMotor;\\nServo rightMotor;\\nconst int serialPeriod = 250; // this limits output to the console to once every 1/4 second\\nunsigned long timeSerialDelay = 0;\\nconst int loopPeriod = 20; // this sets how often the sensor takes a reading to 20ms, which is a frequency of 50Hz\\nunsigned long timeLoopDelay = 0;\\n// this assigns the TRIG and ECHO functions to the pins on the Arduino. Make adjustments to the numbers here if you connected differently\\nconst int ultrasonic2TrigPin = 8;\\nconst int ultrasonic2EchoPin = 9;\\nint ultrasonic2Distance;\\nint ultrasonic2Duration;\\n// this defines the two possible states for the robot: driving forward or turning left\\n#define DRIVE_FORWARD 0\\n#define TURN_LEFT 1\\nint state = DRIVE_FORWARD; // 0 = drive forward (DEFAULT), 1 = turn left\\nvoid setup()\\n{\\n Serial.begin(9600);\\n \\n // these sensor pin configurations\\n pinMode(ultrasonic2TrigPin, OUTPUT);\\n pinMode(ultrasonic2EchoPin, INPUT);\\n \\n // this assigns the motors to the Arduino pins\\n leftMotor.attach(12);\\n rightMotor.attach(13);\\n}\\n\\nvoid loop()\\n{\\n if(digitalRead(2) == HIGH) // this detects the kill switch\\n {\\n while(1)\\n {\\n leftMotor.write(90);\\n rightMotor.write(90);\\n }\\n }\\n debugOutput(); // this prints debugging messages to the serial console\\n \\n if(millis() - timeLoopDelay >= loopPeriod)\\n {\\n readUltrasonicSensors(); // this instructs the sensor to read and store the measured distances\\n \\n stateMachine();\\n \\n timeLoopDelay = millis();\\n }\\n}\\n\\nvoid stateMachine()\\n{\\n if(state == DRIVE_FORWARD) // if no obstacles detected\\n {\\n if(ultrasonic2Distance > 6 || ultrasonic2Distance < 0) // if there's nothing in front of the robot. ultrasonicDistance will be negative for some ultrasonics if there is no obstacle\\n {\\n // drive forward\\n rightMotor.write(180);\\n leftMotor.write(0);\\n }\\n else // if there's an object in front of us\\n {\\n state = TURN_LEFT;\\n }\\n }\\n else if(state == TURN_LEFT) // if an obstacle is detected, turn left\\n {\\n unsigned long timeToTurnLeft = 500; // it takes around .5 seconds to turn 90 degrees. You may need to adjust this if your wheels are a different size than the example\\n \\n unsigned long turnStartTime = millis(); // save the time that we started turning\\n while((millis()-turnStartTime) < timeToTurnLeft) // stay in this loop until timeToTurnLeft has elapsed\\n {\\n // turn left, remember that when both are set to \\\"180\\\" it will turn.\\n rightMotor.write(180);\\n leftMotor.write(180);\\n }\\n \\n state = DRIVE_FORWARD;\\n }\\n}\\n\\nvoid readUltrasonicSensors()\\n{\\n // this is for ultrasonic 2. You may need to change these commands if you use a different sensor.\\n digitalWrite(ultrasonic2TrigPin, HIGH);\\n delayMicroseconds(10); // keeps the trig pin high for at least 10 microseconds\\n digitalWrite(ultrasonic2TrigPin, LOW);\\n \\n ultrasonic2Duration = pulseIn(ultrasonic2EchoPin, HIGH);\\n ultrasonic2Distance = (ultrasonic2Duration/2)/29;\\n}\\n// the following is for debugging errors in the console.\\nvoid debugOutput()\\n{\\n if((millis() - timeSerialDelay) > serialPeriod)\\n {\\n Serial.print(\\\"ultrasonic2Distance: \\\");\\n Serial.print(ultrasonic2Distance);\\n Serial.print(\\\"cm\\\");\\n Serial.println();\\n \\n timeSerialDelay = millis();\\n }\\n}\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,509 |
How to Build a Rock Garden with Weed Prevention
|
1. Preparing Your Space and Preventing Weed Growth
1-1. Decide what kind of rock garden you want to plant.
Think about the specifics of your yard. Do you want your rock garden to be a small or large one, in sun or in shade? Most rock garden plants (such as Alpines) favor sun but you can adjust your planting scheme if you have a shady site. You may want to try sketching or drawing what you want your garden to look like.
Rock gardens are fairly permanent structures, so avoid placing them in spots where there are manhole covers or underground pipes that may need to be accessed.
1-2. Clear the site where you plan to put your rock garden.
Clear your site of plants, grass and anything else that might be there, like furniture or tree roots. It might help you to plan the area if you define the edges of your rock garden by digging a ‘map’ with your spade.
1-3. Plan the area’s drainage route.
You’ll need to have a think about drainage and how to improve it, if your soil does not drain well. A good way to increase soil drainage is to:
Remove a few inches of the topsoil. Mix in about six inches of gravel, rubble, broken bricks, pea shingle or coarse sand down. These materials will help your soil drain water more efficiently.
1-4. Lay weed-resistant fabric on the ground to prevent weed growth.
If weeds are persistent in the area where you plan to have your rock garden, you can lay some horticultural weed-resistant fabric on the site.
The fabric will allow water to penetrate but won’t allow weeds to grow through the fabric.
1-5. Consider laying down newspaper to prevent weeds.
If you don't want to use weed-resistant fabric, lay down several layers of old newspaper above the top layer of soil. The newspaper will eventually break down but will continue to keep the weeds at bay.
If you are worried about appearance, don’t worry—you will be laying a layer of topsoil and rocks down on top of the newspaper.
2. Building Your Rock Garden
2-1. Select your rocks to create your garden.
A random scattering of large and smaller rocks works well. Try to select at least two or three very large rocks to highlight your rock garden. Depending on your tastes, you may want to try to pick rocks that are all the same color and variety, as this can look more natural.
Support larger rocks with bricks or smaller stones.
2-2. Use rocks for both visual effect and to shape your plant bed.
As mentioned earlier, you can create a natural look by trying to replicate how the rocks you select would be spaced in nature. If you want something less natural and more formal looking, consider creating a frame of rocks around your plant bed. This will help to define the area you will be working in and can look quite striking.
2-3. Place topsoil between your rocks.
Once you have your rocks in place, put a layer of topsoil in between the rocks. For an even more natural look, try to submerge the rocks in the soil so that they don’t look like they are just floating in your yard.
Use weed-free topsoil. You may also want to use a topsoil that is 30% grit so that your soil drains well.
If you are using topsoil repurposed from another area of the garden, it may not be weed-free.
2-4. Tread down on your soil.
Press the soil into the earth and water it with a garden hose to make sure air bulbs are removed. Wait a few days before planting your garden, as your rocks may shift and settle a bit.
3. Planting Your Rock Garden
3-1. Select your plants based on the characteristics of your site.
Keep soil type in mind, as well as whether or not the garden gets full sun, partial sun, or shade. You should also keep in mind that if you choose plants that die back during the winter, your rock garden may look rather desolate during that season. Because of this, you may want to select year-round evergreens to form the backbone of your garden.
Lower growing, clump-forming, smaller plants work well in rock gardens, so consider Alpines and Sedums, as these plants display well against rocks. There are many evergreen Alpines to choose from. Examples include Celmisia ramulosa, Dianthus, some perennial Penstemons, and Picea.
It’s also common to incorporate small conifers; however an Acer (Japanese Maple) is a more attractive and elegant choice for providing some height and year-round visual interest.
3-2. Keep in mind that some plants also work well as weed suppressors.
Some plants suitable for rock gardens, such as Leptinella potentillina or Creeping Sedums, tend to cover the ground so thoroughly that they also suppress weed growth.
3-3. Know that rock gardens may be too dry for some plants.
Large rocks have a habit of retaining heat well, so heat-loving plants will do well growing next to these rocks. Plants that need a lot of water or that don’t do well in high heat, however, may not fare as well in your rock garden.
3-4. Don’t feel like you have to cover your rock garden completely with plants.
Many gardeners aim to conceal visible ground or soil when planting a bed. Rock gardens are different because the aim is to display the background rocks as well as the plants themselves. For this reason, you don’t need to cover the rock garden completely with plants.
Ideally your rock garden plants should spread slowly, so give your plants space to grow.
3-5. Care for your rock garden.
While many rock garden plants tend to be very independent (which means they don’t require that much water) you may want to spend some time weeding your garden every few days. Weeds will be less of a problem if you chose to put down newspaper or organic fabric as described in Method 1.
You may also find that ants can be a bit of a pest as they may set up their home in between your rocks. If you are alright with this, leave them be. If you’d rather not have them around, ant killer can be purchased at your local garden store.
Tips
You can also battle weeds by removing the top 30 inches (76.2 cm) of soil completely and replacing it with fresh topsoil. You are still advised to use weed control fabric underneath.
Consider textures and the colors of your rock as you work.
Consider applying a weed killing agent to your rock garden ahead of planting – you may need to wait some time for the weed killer to dissipate after use, or you’ll kill your plants.
Warnings
Be careful not to damage your back lifting heavy materials. You may need help to put the larger rocks into their places.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:00",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing Your Space and Preventing Weed Growth\\n1-1. Decide what kind of rock garden you want to plant.\\nThink about the specifics of your yard. Do you want your rock garden to be a small or large one, in sun or in shade? Most rock garden plants (such as Alpines) favor sun but you can adjust your planting scheme if you have a shady site. You may want to try sketching or drawing what you want your garden to look like.\\nRock gardens are fairly permanent structures, so avoid placing them in spots where there are manhole covers or underground pipes that may need to be accessed.\\n1-2. Clear the site where you plan to put your rock garden.\\nClear your site of plants, grass and anything else that might be there, like furniture or tree roots. It might help you to plan the area if you define the edges of your rock garden by digging a ‘map’ with your spade.\\n1-3. Plan the area’s drainage route.\\nYou’ll need to have a think about drainage and how to improve it, if your soil does not drain well. A good way to increase soil drainage is to:\\nRemove a few inches of the topsoil. Mix in about six inches of gravel, rubble, broken bricks, pea shingle or coarse sand down. These materials will help your soil drain water more efficiently.\\n1-4. Lay weed-resistant fabric on the ground to prevent weed growth.\\nIf weeds are persistent in the area where you plan to have your rock garden, you can lay some horticultural weed-resistant fabric on the site.\\nThe fabric will allow water to penetrate but won’t allow weeds to grow through the fabric.\\n1-5. Consider laying down newspaper to prevent weeds.\\nIf you don't want to use weed-resistant fabric, lay down several layers of old newspaper above the top layer of soil. The newspaper will eventually break down but will continue to keep the weeds at bay.\\nIf you are worried about appearance, don’t worry—you will be laying a layer of topsoil and rocks down on top of the newspaper.\\n2. Building Your Rock Garden\\n2-1. Select your rocks to create your garden.\\nA random scattering of large and smaller rocks works well. Try to select at least two or three very large rocks to highlight your rock garden. Depending on your tastes, you may want to try to pick rocks that are all the same color and variety, as this can look more natural.\\nSupport larger rocks with bricks or smaller stones.\\n2-2. Use rocks for both visual effect and to shape your plant bed.\\nAs mentioned earlier, you can create a natural look by trying to replicate how the rocks you select would be spaced in nature. If you want something less natural and more formal looking, consider creating a frame of rocks around your plant bed. This will help to define the area you will be working in and can look quite striking.\\n2-3. Place topsoil between your rocks.\\nOnce you have your rocks in place, put a layer of topsoil in between the rocks. For an even more natural look, try to submerge the rocks in the soil so that they don’t look like they are just floating in your yard.\\nUse weed-free topsoil. You may also want to use a topsoil that is 30% grit so that your soil drains well.\\nIf you are using topsoil repurposed from another area of the garden, it may not be weed-free.\\n2-4. Tread down on your soil.\\nPress the soil into the earth and water it with a garden hose to make sure air bulbs are removed. Wait a few days before planting your garden, as your rocks may shift and settle a bit.\\n3. Planting Your Rock Garden\\n3-1. Select your plants based on the characteristics of your site.\\nKeep soil type in mind, as well as whether or not the garden gets full sun, partial sun, or shade. You should also keep in mind that if you choose plants that die back during the winter, your rock garden may look rather desolate during that season. Because of this, you may want to select year-round evergreens to form the backbone of your garden.\\nLower growing, clump-forming, smaller plants work well in rock gardens, so consider Alpines and Sedums, as these plants display well against rocks. There are many evergreen Alpines to choose from. Examples include Celmisia ramulosa, Dianthus, some perennial Penstemons, and Picea.\\nIt’s also common to incorporate small conifers; however an Acer (Japanese Maple) is a more attractive and elegant choice for providing some height and year-round visual interest.\\n3-2. Keep in mind that some plants also work well as weed suppressors.\\nSome plants suitable for rock gardens, such as Leptinella potentillina or Creeping Sedums, tend to cover the ground so thoroughly that they also suppress weed growth.\\n3-3. Know that rock gardens may be too dry for some plants.\\nLarge rocks have a habit of retaining heat well, so heat-loving plants will do well growing next to these rocks. Plants that need a lot of water or that don’t do well in high heat, however, may not fare as well in your rock garden.\\n3-4. Don’t feel like you have to cover your rock garden completely with plants.\\nMany gardeners aim to conceal visible ground or soil when planting a bed. Rock gardens are different because the aim is to display the background rocks as well as the plants themselves. For this reason, you don’t need to cover the rock garden completely with plants.\\nIdeally your rock garden plants should spread slowly, so give your plants space to grow.\\n3-5. Care for your rock garden.\\nWhile many rock garden plants tend to be very independent (which means they don’t require that much water) you may want to spend some time weeding your garden every few days. Weeds will be less of a problem if you chose to put down newspaper or organic fabric as described in Method 1.\\nYou may also find that ants can be a bit of a pest as they may set up their home in between your rocks. If you are alright with this, leave them be. If you’d rather not have them around, ant killer can be purchased at your local garden store.\\nTips\\nYou can also battle weeds by removing the top 30 inches (76.2 cm) of soil completely and replacing it with fresh topsoil. You are still advised to use weed control fabric underneath.\\nConsider textures and the colors of your rock as you work.\\nConsider applying a weed killing agent to your rock garden ahead of planting – you may need to wait some time for the weed killer to dissipate after use, or you’ll kill your plants.\\nWarnings\\nBe careful not to damage your back lifting heavy materials. You may need help to put the larger rocks into their places.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A rock garden is a good way to display plants in a natural-looking setting. Rock gardens tend to be low maintenance once you set them up and can be fit to any size yard, including small spaces or yards with natural slopes. In an area where weeds are persistent, rock gardens can also help to keep weeds down.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing Your Space and Preventing Weed Growth\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide what kind of rock garden you want to plant.\", \"描述\": \"Think about the specifics of your yard. Do you want your rock garden to be a small or large one, in sun or in shade? Most rock garden plants (such as Alpines) favor sun but you can adjust your planting scheme if you have a shady site. You may want to try sketching or drawing what you want your garden to look like.\\nRock gardens are fairly permanent structures, so avoid placing them in spots where there are manhole covers or underground pipes that may need to be accessed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Clear the site where you plan to put your rock garden.\", \"描述\": \"Clear your site of plants, grass and anything else that might be there, like furniture or tree roots. It might help you to plan the area if you define the edges of your rock garden by digging a ‘map’ with your spade.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plan the area’s drainage route.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need to have a think about drainage and how to improve it, if your soil does not drain well. A good way to increase soil drainage is to:\\nRemove a few inches of the topsoil. Mix in about six inches of gravel, rubble, broken bricks, pea shingle or coarse sand down. These materials will help your soil drain water more efficiently.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay weed-resistant fabric on the ground to prevent weed growth.\", \"描述\": \"If weeds are persistent in the area where you plan to have your rock garden, you can lay some horticultural weed-resistant fabric on the site.\\nThe fabric will allow water to penetrate but won’t allow weeds to grow through the fabric.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider laying down newspaper to prevent weeds.\", \"描述\": \"If you don't want to use weed-resistant fabric, lay down several layers of old newspaper above the top layer of soil. The newspaper will eventually break down but will continue to keep the weeds at bay.\\nIf you are worried about appearance, don’t worry—you will be laying a layer of topsoil and rocks down on top of the newspaper.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building Your Rock Garden\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select your rocks to create your garden.\", \"描述\": \"A random scattering of large and smaller rocks works well. Try to select at least two or three very large rocks to highlight your rock garden. Depending on your tastes, you may want to try to pick rocks that are all the same color and variety, as this can look more natural.\\nSupport larger rocks with bricks or smaller stones.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use rocks for both visual effect and to shape your plant bed.\", \"描述\": \"As mentioned earlier, you can create a natural look by trying to replicate how the rocks you select would be spaced in nature. If you want something less natural and more formal looking, consider creating a frame of rocks around your plant bed. This will help to define the area you will be working in and can look quite striking.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place topsoil between your rocks.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have your rocks in place, put a layer of topsoil in between the rocks. For an even more natural look, try to submerge the rocks in the soil so that they don’t look like they are just floating in your yard.\\nUse weed-free topsoil. You may also want to use a topsoil that is 30% grit so that your soil drains well.\\nIf you are using topsoil repurposed from another area of the garden, it may not be weed-free.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tread down on your soil.\", \"描述\": \"Press the soil into the earth and water it with a garden hose to make sure air bulbs are removed. Wait a few days before planting your garden, as your rocks may shift and settle a bit.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Planting Your Rock Garden\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select your plants based on the characteristics of your site.\", \"描述\": \"Keep soil type in mind, as well as whether or not the garden gets full sun, partial sun, or shade. You should also keep in mind that if you choose plants that die back during the winter, your rock garden may look rather desolate during that season. Because of this, you may want to select year-round evergreens to form the backbone of your garden.\\nLower growing, clump-forming, smaller plants work well in rock gardens, so consider Alpines and Sedums, as these plants display well against rocks. There are many evergreen Alpines to choose from. Examples include Celmisia ramulosa, Dianthus, some perennial Penstemons, and Picea.\\nIt’s also common to incorporate small conifers; however an Acer (Japanese Maple) is a more attractive and elegant choice for providing some height and year-round visual interest.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep in mind that some plants also work well as weed suppressors.\", \"描述\": \"Some plants suitable for rock gardens, such as Leptinella potentillina or Creeping Sedums, tend to cover the ground so thoroughly that they also suppress weed growth.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Know that rock gardens may be too dry for some plants.\", \"描述\": \"Large rocks have a habit of retaining heat well, so heat-loving plants will do well growing next to these rocks. Plants that need a lot of water or that don’t do well in high heat, however, may not fare as well in your rock garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Don’t feel like you have to cover your rock garden completely with plants.\", \"描述\": \"Many gardeners aim to conceal visible ground or soil when planting a bed. Rock gardens are different because the aim is to display the background rocks as well as the plants themselves. For this reason, you don’t need to cover the rock garden completely with plants.\\nIdeally your rock garden plants should spread slowly, so give your plants space to grow.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Care for your rock garden.\", \"描述\": \"While many rock garden plants tend to be very independent (which means they don’t require that much water) you may want to spend some time weeding your garden every few days. Weeds will be less of a problem if you chose to put down newspaper or organic fabric as described in Method 1.\\nYou may also find that ants can be a bit of a pest as they may set up their home in between your rocks. If you are alright with this, leave them be. If you’d rather not have them around, ant killer can be purchased at your local garden store.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can also battle weeds by removing the top 30 inches (76.2 cm) of soil completely and replacing it with fresh topsoil. You are still advised to use weed control fabric underneath.\\n\", \"Consider textures and the colors of your rock as you work.\\n\", \"Consider applying a weed killing agent to your rock garden ahead of planting – you may need to wait some time for the weed killer to dissipate after use, or you’ll kill your plants.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful not to damage your back lifting heavy materials. You may need help to put the larger rocks into their places.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,510 |
How to Build a Rocking Chair
|
1. Shaping and Drilling the Seat
1-1. Draw the shape of your seat onto a piece of wood.
Use a piece of wood that's 1 ⁄8 in (4.8 cm) thick, 21 in (53 cm) wide, and 20 in (51 cm) long. Use a pencil to draw the shape of the chair's seat directly onto the wood. Make the seat U-shaped where the flat side is the front and the curve is the back. Be sure the chair is perfectly symmetrical or else it won't balance well.
You can find templates for chair seats online or you can design your own.
Make a cutout of your seat on a sheet of paper so you can trace it onto your wood.
Cherry is a great type of wood to use due to its color and durability.
1-2. Cut the shape of the seat out using a band saw or jigsaw.
Turn on your saw and guide your piece of wood slowly through the blade. Cut just outside of your pencil lines so you can still sand and shape the sides of your chair. Cut off any pieces of wood that aren't a part of your seat design and throw away the scraps.
Wear safety glasses whenever you work with power tools to prevent anything from getting in your eyes.
You may also use a handsaw if you don't have access to power tools.
1-3. Mark 10 points that are 2 ⁄4 in (5.7 cm) apart around the back of the seat.
Measure to the left 1 ⁄8 in (2.9 cm) from the center of your chair along the back edge. Put a dot on the point with a pencil to mark where to drill your hole. Make 4 more dots to the left of your first mark each 2 ⁄4 in (5.7 cm) apart from one another. Then go back to the first mark you made and make 5 dots going along the right side of the seat.
Don't put a dot directly in the middle of the chair, since a spindle will go there eventually and would make a person sitting down uncomfortable.
1-4. Drill ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes through each of your marks.
Use a drill press to make a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) wide hole at a 12-degree angle toward the back of your chair. Make sure the hole goes all the way through to the other side of the seat. Continue drilling holes on each of your marks so they're angled toward the back of the seat.
If you don't have a drill press, you can clamp your seat on a work surface and use a handheld drill.
1-5. Make 4 holes that are 1 inch (2.5 cm) in the seat for the legs.
Mark the holes for the 2 front legs so they're 4 inches (10 cm) from the front of the seat and 7 inches (18 cm) from the center. Make the holes on the back legs 15 inches (38 cm) from the front and 5 inches (13 cm) from the center of the seat. Use your drill press with a 1 in (2.5 cm) bit to make your holes. Angle the front legs to the sides and front of the chair by 5 degrees each. Angle the back legs 20 degrees toward the back of the seat and 5 degrees to the side.
For example, when you're drilling the left legs, make the hole for the front leg angle to the left side and toward the front of the seat. For the back leg, angle the hole toward the back of the seat and to the left side.
1-6. Dig out the recessed area of the seat with a curved draw shave.
A curved draw shave is a two-handled blade that's used to carve out large areas of wood. Dig the blade into the top of your seat and pull it toward you at an angle to dig out the shape of the seat. Work from the back of the seat toward the front to curve the area where you'll sit. You can dig up to halfway through the thickness of the wood to shape your seat how you want it.
Leave 2 in (5.1 cm) on the left, back, and right sides of the seat flat since that's where you'll be placing the spindles for the back and arms.
Work slowly while you're using the curved edge shave so the blade doesn't slip when you're pulling it toward you.
1-7. Bevel the edges of the seat with a straight edge shave.
A straight edge shave is a two-handled tool with a straight blade used for carving wood. Hold both handles of the blade and pull it toward you at an angle into the wood to remove some of the wood. Work around the edge of your seat to make a bevel or curve so the sides of your chair aren't sharp.
Be careful while you pull the straight edge shave toward you so the blade doesn't slip.
1-8. Sand the seat with 320-grit sandpaper.
Once you've carved out the majority of your seat and you're happy with the shape, go over the seat with 320-grit sandpaper to get rid of any rough edges or burrs. Wipe the sawdust off your chair occasionally with a clean shop cloth so you can see any rough areas.
You can also use an electric sander, but it may leave marks on your chair. Be sure to go over the area again by hand to remove any marks.
2. Forming the Spindles and Legs
2-1. Cut the front and back legs to size using your bandsaw.
Cut your leg pieces from wood that's 2 in (5.1 cm) wide by 2 in (5.1 cm) thick. Make your 2 front legs so they're 16 in (41 cm) long and the 2 back legs so they're 13 in (33 cm).
Wear safety glasses while you're working with power tools.
Keep your wood pressed down while working with a bandsaw, or else you may get an uneven cut.
2-2. Shape the legs into 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) thick cylinders using a lathe.
A lathe is a large tool used to spin wood so you can shape it into a cylinder. Push the ends of the wood onto the grips of the lathe to secure it in place. Set the flat edge of a scraping lathe tool on the guard in front of the lathe and press it into your wood. Work across the entire surface of the wood while it spins so it becomes cylindrical. Periodically stop the lathe and check the thickness of your legs with a caliper.
Lathes can be purchased online or from hardware stores.
When you first start shaping the wood, your scraper tool may meet some resistance. Use your nondominant hand to support the top of the tool so you can hold it sturdy.
Always wear safety glasses while you use a lathe so you don't get sawdust in your eyes.
2-3. Taper the ends of the legs so they're 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) on one end.
Spin the leg on your lathe and use the scraper tool to shape one end. Work back and forth along the last 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) of the leg until it's only 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) thick. Keep the rest of the leg the same thickness. Continue working on each leg until each one has a taper.
The tapered ends will fit into the holes you drilled into your seat.
2-4. Cut the spindles for your back and arm supports.
Use wood that's 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 1 in (2.5 cm) thick to start each of your spindles. Look for wood that's sturdy and flexible, such as white ash, to use for your spindles. Cut the blanks to size using your bandsaw. In total, you'll need 16 spindles varying in different lengths for the supports on your chair.
Make 10 of your spindles 29 in (74 cm) long for the back of the chair.
Use 2 spindles that are 9 in (23 cm) long for the front supports on the arms.
Cut 2 spindles to 10 in (25 cm) long for the center arm supports.
Make 2 spindles 12 in (30 cm) long for the back arm supports.
2-5. Use a block plane to round your spindles into ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) cylinders.
A block plane is a hand tool used to smooth out edges and round wood by hand. Grab the top of the hand plane and pull it toward you to shave off the wood. Rotate the spindle every time you use the plane to round the edges evenly. Check the thickness of the cylinders occasionally until they are ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) thick.
You may need to sand your spindles to get a completely smooth finish.
2-6. Cut ⁄16 in (1.4 cm) slots into the untapered ends of the legs.
Use a table saw or your band saw to cut the slots into the thick ends of your legs. Make sure the slots are positioned directly in the middle of the leg. Cut out the slot so it's ⁄16 in (1.4 cm) wide and 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) deep. Make the slots at the end of each leg.
The slots will fit onto the rocks so they are held firmly in place.
3. Installing the Back Spindles
3-1. Spread wood glue around the inside of the holes along the back of the seat.
Open a bottle of wood glue and squeeze a generous dab of wood glue into each of the holes. Use your finger or a shop cloth to coat the entire inside of the hole with the glue to get the best adhesion.
Work on 1 hole at a time since wood glue can dry quickly.
3-2. Fit the end of the spindles into the holes.
Look at the direction of the wood grains on your 29 in (74 cm) spindles and make sure it's perpendicular to the wood grain of your seat. Slide the ends of the spindles into the holes with the glue so the ends stick out from the bottom of the seat by about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm). Continue putting the rest of the back spindles into the holes until you've filled them all.
Keep the spindles for the chair's arms aside for now since you'll add them later.
If you have trouble getting the spindles into the holes, tap the ends of them lightly with a wooden mallet.
3-3. Allow the glue on the spindles to set for 24 hours.
Wood glue takes about 1 day to set completely, so leave your chair alone for a full day. Make sure the area stays cool and dry so the glue doesn't stay wet.
You can work on other pieces of your chair while the glue is drying.
3-4. Cut and sand the ends of the spindles with a flush cut saw.
A flush cut saw has a flexible blade so you can cut along the edge of your seat. Once the glue is completely set, use your saw to cut the spindles sticking through the bottom of your seat. Then, use 220-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges on your cuts.
4. Adding the Arms and Bask Crest
4-1. Cut your arms and back crest to size with your bandsaw.
Use a sturdy piece of wood, such as cherry, for your arms and back crest. Draw curved arcs on the wood so the middle of the arc is 3 in (7.6 cm) back from the edges. Cut the back crest so it's 23 in (58 cm) long, 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, and 1 ⁄8 in (2.9 cm) thick. Make the arms so they're 20 in (51 cm) long, 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, and 1 in (2.5 cm) thick.
The back crest needs to match the curve at the back of your seat so the spindles can fit in it.
4-2. Drill ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes in the bottom of the back crest.
Space the holes on your back crest 2 ⁄4 in (5.7 cm) apart to line up with your spindles. Use a handheld drill with a bit that's ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) thick to make the holes 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) deep.
Clamp the back crest in a vise so it doesn't move around while you're drilling.
Make you drill straight into the wood or else the bit may come out the side.
4-3. Make ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes through the backs of your arm pieces.
Put the hole about 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) from the back of each arm. Use a handheld drill or a drill press with a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) bit to make the hole at a 12-degree angle to match the back spindles.
4-4. Slide the arm pieces onto the outermost spindles.
Guide the arms down the left- and right-most spindles so they're snug. Tap the arms lightly with a wooden mallet if you need to until the back of the arm is about 11 inches (28 cm) up from the seat. Put a clamp underneath the arm so it doesn't move down any further.
Be sure to do this before you put the back crest on or else you won't be able to attach the arms.
4-5. Line the holes in the back crest with wood glue and press it onto the spindles.
Put a generous dab of wood glue into each hole in the back crest and spread it around the hole with a finger or shop cloth. Line up the holes with the spindles and press the back crest into place. Tap the back crest lightly with a hammer so the spindles go completely in the holes. Wipe up any excess wood glue that spilled out with a clean cloth.
You may have to slightly bend the spindles to line up with the back crest, but they will not break or weaken.
4-6. Drill ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes with a drill through the seat and arms.
Now that you have the back crest in place, you can drill the holes for the arm spindles. Choose where you want to position the spindles and mark the spots with a pencil. Use a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) drill bit to bore through the arms and seat completely so they line up with one another.
Work slowly and carefully so the spindles and back crest don't move around.
4-7. Apply wood glue to the holes and slide the arm spindles into place.
Put a dab of wood glue into each of the holes and spread it around the entire surface. Slide the spindles through the top of each arm and through the seat so they extend an equal amount from each side. Let the glue dry for a full day before working on your chair again.
4-8. Trim off any excess spindle on the arms after 24 hours using a flush cut saw.
Once the glue is set, use your flush cut saw to trim any spindles on the arms of your chair. Try to get as close to the wood as you can so it's a smooth cut. If you need to, use 220-grit sandpaper to smooth any edges that are rough after you make your cut.
You do not need to trim anything off of the back crest.
5. Putting in the Legs
5-1. Line the holes for the legs with wood glue.
Place a dab of glue in each of the holes for your chair's legs and spread it around the inside of the hole with your finger or a shop cloth. Make sure it coats the entire surface evenly to get the best adhesion.
5-2. Pound the tapered ends of your legs into the seat with a mallet.
Position the sides of your legs that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) on the bottom of your seat. Hold the seat sturdy with your nondominant hand and tap on the ends of the legs with your mallet to work them into the holes. They will be a tight fit so keep hitting the legs until they fit inside. Wipe any excess glue that comes out with a shop cloth.
Make sure you put the longer legs in the back 2 holes on the seat and the shorter legs in the front.
5-3. Remove any wood sticking out from the seat after 24 hours with a flush cut saw.
Start working on your chair again the next day so the glue can completely set. Hold the blade of your flush cut saw sideways against your seat use it to trim any wood sticking out from your leg. Cut the wood completely until it's smooth with the seat.
You may need to use 220-grit sandpaper to get the edges completely smooth.
6. Finishing with the Rockers
6-1. Cut the shape of the rockers out from your planks of wood.
Trace the shape of your rockers on your piece of wood. The rockers should be 36 in (91 cm) long, 4 in (10 cm) tall at their tallest point, and ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) thick. Use a bandsaw to cut the curved shape of the rockers out of the wood you're using.
Use the same wood you used as your seat so your rocking chair looks uniform.
You can find templates and shapes for the rockers online.
Make sure the backs of the rockers are longer than the front to prevent the chair from tipping over.
6-2. Clamp the pieces together to plane them evenly.
Put the rockers together upside down so they're lined up. Use your block plane to smooth the curved bottoms of the rockers at the same time. That way, the rockers won't wobble or feel uneven when you're sitting in the chair. Keep smoothing out the bottom curves of the rockers until you're satisfied with the shape.
The bottom curve of the rocker should be no more than 45 degrees since that could make the rocking motion feel choppy while you're sitting down.
6-3. Glue and clamp the rockers into the slots on the legs.
Coat the insides of the slots on the chair legs with wood glue and spread it around with your finger. Slide the rockers into the slots on the bottom of the chair legs. If you need to, tap the bottom of the rocker with a wooden mallet so they fit tightly in place.
The rockers will have a snug fit since they are slightly smaller than the thickness of the slots.
6-4. Drill ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) holes through the legs and rockers.
Once the rockers are glued in place, use a drill with a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) bit to make a hole through the leg and rocker. Make sure the hole goes completely through both sides of the leg. Keep drilling holes in each leg this way so you can insert dowels.
6-5. Insert wooden dowels through the holes to hold the legs in place.
Place a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) dowel into each of the holes and slide them completely through. Once the dowels are in place, let the glue dry for 24 hours and your chair is finished and ready to use!
The dowels add extra support to the rockers rather than just relying on the wood glue.
Tips
You can buy a rocking chair kit from many stores or online if you don't want to make your rocking chair from scratch.
Warnings
Always wear safety glasses while you're working with power tools.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:00",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Shaping and Drilling the Seat\\n1-1. Draw the shape of your seat onto a piece of wood.\\nUse a piece of wood that's 1 ⁄8 in (4.8 cm) thick, 21 in (53 cm) wide, and 20 in (51 cm) long. Use a pencil to draw the shape of the chair's seat directly onto the wood. Make the seat U-shaped where the flat side is the front and the curve is the back. Be sure the chair is perfectly symmetrical or else it won't balance well.\\nYou can find templates for chair seats online or you can design your own.\\nMake a cutout of your seat on a sheet of paper so you can trace it onto your wood.\\nCherry is a great type of wood to use due to its color and durability.\\n1-2. Cut the shape of the seat out using a band saw or jigsaw.\\nTurn on your saw and guide your piece of wood slowly through the blade. Cut just outside of your pencil lines so you can still sand and shape the sides of your chair. Cut off any pieces of wood that aren't a part of your seat design and throw away the scraps.\\nWear safety glasses whenever you work with power tools to prevent anything from getting in your eyes.\\nYou may also use a handsaw if you don't have access to power tools.\\n1-3. Mark 10 points that are 2 ⁄4 in (5.7 cm) apart around the back of the seat.\\nMeasure to the left 1 ⁄8 in (2.9 cm) from the center of your chair along the back edge. Put a dot on the point with a pencil to mark where to drill your hole. Make 4 more dots to the left of your first mark each 2 ⁄4 in (5.7 cm) apart from one another. Then go back to the first mark you made and make 5 dots going along the right side of the seat.\\nDon't put a dot directly in the middle of the chair, since a spindle will go there eventually and would make a person sitting down uncomfortable.\\n1-4. Drill ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes through each of your marks.\\nUse a drill press to make a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) wide hole at a 12-degree angle toward the back of your chair. Make sure the hole goes all the way through to the other side of the seat. Continue drilling holes on each of your marks so they're angled toward the back of the seat.\\nIf you don't have a drill press, you can clamp your seat on a work surface and use a handheld drill.\\n1-5. Make 4 holes that are 1 inch (2.5 cm) in the seat for the legs.\\nMark the holes for the 2 front legs so they're 4 inches (10 cm) from the front of the seat and 7 inches (18 cm) from the center. Make the holes on the back legs 15 inches (38 cm) from the front and 5 inches (13 cm) from the center of the seat. Use your drill press with a 1 in (2.5 cm) bit to make your holes. Angle the front legs to the sides and front of the chair by 5 degrees each. Angle the back legs 20 degrees toward the back of the seat and 5 degrees to the side.\\nFor example, when you're drilling the left legs, make the hole for the front leg angle to the left side and toward the front of the seat. For the back leg, angle the hole toward the back of the seat and to the left side.\\n1-6. Dig out the recessed area of the seat with a curved draw shave.\\nA curved draw shave is a two-handled blade that's used to carve out large areas of wood. Dig the blade into the top of your seat and pull it toward you at an angle to dig out the shape of the seat. Work from the back of the seat toward the front to curve the area where you'll sit. You can dig up to halfway through the thickness of the wood to shape your seat how you want it.\\nLeave 2 in (5.1 cm) on the left, back, and right sides of the seat flat since that's where you'll be placing the spindles for the back and arms.\\nWork slowly while you're using the curved edge shave so the blade doesn't slip when you're pulling it toward you.\\n1-7. Bevel the edges of the seat with a straight edge shave.\\nA straight edge shave is a two-handled tool with a straight blade used for carving wood. Hold both handles of the blade and pull it toward you at an angle into the wood to remove some of the wood. Work around the edge of your seat to make a bevel or curve so the sides of your chair aren't sharp.\\nBe careful while you pull the straight edge shave toward you so the blade doesn't slip.\\n1-8. Sand the seat with 320-grit sandpaper.\\nOnce you've carved out the majority of your seat and you're happy with the shape, go over the seat with 320-grit sandpaper to get rid of any rough edges or burrs. Wipe the sawdust off your chair occasionally with a clean shop cloth so you can see any rough areas.\\nYou can also use an electric sander, but it may leave marks on your chair. Be sure to go over the area again by hand to remove any marks.\\n2. Forming the Spindles and Legs\\n2-1. Cut the front and back legs to size using your bandsaw.\\nCut your leg pieces from wood that's 2 in (5.1 cm) wide by 2 in (5.1 cm) thick. Make your 2 front legs so they're 16 in (41 cm) long and the 2 back legs so they're 13 in (33 cm).\\nWear safety glasses while you're working with power tools.\\nKeep your wood pressed down while working with a bandsaw, or else you may get an uneven cut.\\n2-2. Shape the legs into 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) thick cylinders using a lathe.\\nA lathe is a large tool used to spin wood so you can shape it into a cylinder. Push the ends of the wood onto the grips of the lathe to secure it in place. Set the flat edge of a scraping lathe tool on the guard in front of the lathe and press it into your wood. Work across the entire surface of the wood while it spins so it becomes cylindrical. Periodically stop the lathe and check the thickness of your legs with a caliper.\\nLathes can be purchased online or from hardware stores.\\nWhen you first start shaping the wood, your scraper tool may meet some resistance. Use your nondominant hand to support the top of the tool so you can hold it sturdy.\\nAlways wear safety glasses while you use a lathe so you don't get sawdust in your eyes.\\n2-3. Taper the ends of the legs so they're 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) on one end.\\nSpin the leg on your lathe and use the scraper tool to shape one end. Work back and forth along the last 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) of the leg until it's only 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) thick. Keep the rest of the leg the same thickness. Continue working on each leg until each one has a taper.\\nThe tapered ends will fit into the holes you drilled into your seat.\\n2-4. Cut the spindles for your back and arm supports.\\nUse wood that's 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 1 in (2.5 cm) thick to start each of your spindles. Look for wood that's sturdy and flexible, such as white ash, to use for your spindles. Cut the blanks to size using your bandsaw. In total, you'll need 16 spindles varying in different lengths for the supports on your chair.\\nMake 10 of your spindles 29 in (74 cm) long for the back of the chair.\\nUse 2 spindles that are 9 in (23 cm) long for the front supports on the arms.\\nCut 2 spindles to 10 in (25 cm) long for the center arm supports.\\nMake 2 spindles 12 in (30 cm) long for the back arm supports.\\n2-5. Use a block plane to round your spindles into ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) cylinders.\\nA block plane is a hand tool used to smooth out edges and round wood by hand. Grab the top of the hand plane and pull it toward you to shave off the wood. Rotate the spindle every time you use the plane to round the edges evenly. Check the thickness of the cylinders occasionally until they are ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) thick.\\nYou may need to sand your spindles to get a completely smooth finish.\\n2-6. Cut ⁄16 in (1.4 cm) slots into the untapered ends of the legs.\\nUse a table saw or your band saw to cut the slots into the thick ends of your legs. Make sure the slots are positioned directly in the middle of the leg. Cut out the slot so it's ⁄16 in (1.4 cm) wide and 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) deep. Make the slots at the end of each leg.\\nThe slots will fit onto the rocks so they are held firmly in place.\\n3. Installing the Back Spindles\\n3-1. Spread wood glue around the inside of the holes along the back of the seat.\\nOpen a bottle of wood glue and squeeze a generous dab of wood glue into each of the holes. Use your finger or a shop cloth to coat the entire inside of the hole with the glue to get the best adhesion.\\nWork on 1 hole at a time since wood glue can dry quickly.\\n3-2. Fit the end of the spindles into the holes.\\nLook at the direction of the wood grains on your 29 in (74 cm) spindles and make sure it's perpendicular to the wood grain of your seat. Slide the ends of the spindles into the holes with the glue so the ends stick out from the bottom of the seat by about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm). Continue putting the rest of the back spindles into the holes until you've filled them all.\\nKeep the spindles for the chair's arms aside for now since you'll add them later.\\nIf you have trouble getting the spindles into the holes, tap the ends of them lightly with a wooden mallet.\\n3-3. Allow the glue on the spindles to set for 24 hours.\\nWood glue takes about 1 day to set completely, so leave your chair alone for a full day. Make sure the area stays cool and dry so the glue doesn't stay wet.\\nYou can work on other pieces of your chair while the glue is drying.\\n3-4. Cut and sand the ends of the spindles with a flush cut saw.\\nA flush cut saw has a flexible blade so you can cut along the edge of your seat. Once the glue is completely set, use your saw to cut the spindles sticking through the bottom of your seat. Then, use 220-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges on your cuts.\\n4. Adding the Arms and Bask Crest\\n4-1. Cut your arms and back crest to size with your bandsaw.\\nUse a sturdy piece of wood, such as cherry, for your arms and back crest. Draw curved arcs on the wood so the middle of the arc is 3 in (7.6 cm) back from the edges. Cut the back crest so it's 23 in (58 cm) long, 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, and 1 ⁄8 in (2.9 cm) thick. Make the arms so they're 20 in (51 cm) long, 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, and 1 in (2.5 cm) thick.\\nThe back crest needs to match the curve at the back of your seat so the spindles can fit in it.\\n4-2. Drill ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes in the bottom of the back crest.\\nSpace the holes on your back crest 2 ⁄4 in (5.7 cm) apart to line up with your spindles. Use a handheld drill with a bit that's ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) thick to make the holes 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) deep.\\nClamp the back crest in a vise so it doesn't move around while you're drilling.\\nMake you drill straight into the wood or else the bit may come out the side.\\n4-3. Make ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes through the backs of your arm pieces.\\nPut the hole about 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) from the back of each arm. Use a handheld drill or a drill press with a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) bit to make the hole at a 12-degree angle to match the back spindles.\\n4-4. Slide the arm pieces onto the outermost spindles.\\nGuide the arms down the left- and right-most spindles so they're snug. Tap the arms lightly with a wooden mallet if you need to until the back of the arm is about 11 inches (28 cm) up from the seat. Put a clamp underneath the arm so it doesn't move down any further.\\nBe sure to do this before you put the back crest on or else you won't be able to attach the arms.\\n4-5. Line the holes in the back crest with wood glue and press it onto the spindles.\\nPut a generous dab of wood glue into each hole in the back crest and spread it around the hole with a finger or shop cloth. Line up the holes with the spindles and press the back crest into place. Tap the back crest lightly with a hammer so the spindles go completely in the holes. Wipe up any excess wood glue that spilled out with a clean cloth.\\nYou may have to slightly bend the spindles to line up with the back crest, but they will not break or weaken.\\n4-6. Drill ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes with a drill through the seat and arms.\\nNow that you have the back crest in place, you can drill the holes for the arm spindles. Choose where you want to position the spindles and mark the spots with a pencil. Use a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) drill bit to bore through the arms and seat completely so they line up with one another.\\nWork slowly and carefully so the spindles and back crest don't move around.\\n4-7. Apply wood glue to the holes and slide the arm spindles into place.\\nPut a dab of wood glue into each of the holes and spread it around the entire surface. Slide the spindles through the top of each arm and through the seat so they extend an equal amount from each side. Let the glue dry for a full day before working on your chair again.\\n4-8. Trim off any excess spindle on the arms after 24 hours using a flush cut saw.\\nOnce the glue is set, use your flush cut saw to trim any spindles on the arms of your chair. Try to get as close to the wood as you can so it's a smooth cut. If you need to, use 220-grit sandpaper to smooth any edges that are rough after you make your cut.\\nYou do not need to trim anything off of the back crest.\\n5. Putting in the Legs\\n5-1. Line the holes for the legs with wood glue.\\nPlace a dab of glue in each of the holes for your chair's legs and spread it around the inside of the hole with your finger or a shop cloth. Make sure it coats the entire surface evenly to get the best adhesion.\\n5-2. Pound the tapered ends of your legs into the seat with a mallet.\\nPosition the sides of your legs that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) on the bottom of your seat. Hold the seat sturdy with your nondominant hand and tap on the ends of the legs with your mallet to work them into the holes. They will be a tight fit so keep hitting the legs until they fit inside. Wipe any excess glue that comes out with a shop cloth.\\nMake sure you put the longer legs in the back 2 holes on the seat and the shorter legs in the front.\\n5-3. Remove any wood sticking out from the seat after 24 hours with a flush cut saw.\\nStart working on your chair again the next day so the glue can completely set. Hold the blade of your flush cut saw sideways against your seat use it to trim any wood sticking out from your leg. Cut the wood completely until it's smooth with the seat.\\nYou may need to use 220-grit sandpaper to get the edges completely smooth.\\n6. Finishing with the Rockers\\n6-1. Cut the shape of the rockers out from your planks of wood.\\nTrace the shape of your rockers on your piece of wood. The rockers should be 36 in (91 cm) long, 4 in (10 cm) tall at their tallest point, and ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) thick. Use a bandsaw to cut the curved shape of the rockers out of the wood you're using.\\nUse the same wood you used as your seat so your rocking chair looks uniform.\\nYou can find templates and shapes for the rockers online.\\nMake sure the backs of the rockers are longer than the front to prevent the chair from tipping over.\\n6-2. Clamp the pieces together to plane them evenly.\\nPut the rockers together upside down so they're lined up. Use your block plane to smooth the curved bottoms of the rockers at the same time. That way, the rockers won't wobble or feel uneven when you're sitting in the chair. Keep smoothing out the bottom curves of the rockers until you're satisfied with the shape.\\nThe bottom curve of the rocker should be no more than 45 degrees since that could make the rocking motion feel choppy while you're sitting down.\\n6-3. Glue and clamp the rockers into the slots on the legs.\\nCoat the insides of the slots on the chair legs with wood glue and spread it around with your finger. Slide the rockers into the slots on the bottom of the chair legs. If you need to, tap the bottom of the rocker with a wooden mallet so they fit tightly in place.\\nThe rockers will have a snug fit since they are slightly smaller than the thickness of the slots.\\n6-4. Drill ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) holes through the legs and rockers.\\nOnce the rockers are glued in place, use a drill with a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) bit to make a hole through the leg and rocker. Make sure the hole goes completely through both sides of the leg. Keep drilling holes in each leg this way so you can insert dowels.\\n6-5. Insert wooden dowels through the holes to hold the legs in place.\\nPlace a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) dowel into each of the holes and slide them completely through. Once the dowels are in place, let the glue dry for 24 hours and your chair is finished and ready to use!\\nThe dowels add extra support to the rockers rather than just relying on the wood glue.\\nTips\\nYou can buy a rocking chair kit from many stores or online if you don't want to make your rocking chair from scratch.\\nWarnings\\nAlways wear safety glasses while you're working with power tools.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A rocking chair can be one of the most challenging pieces to build if you're a woodworker since it requires a lot of tools and pieces, but you can still make a unique chair on your own. Rocking chairs need to have the right balance and weight when you make them or else they can tip over while you use them. With the right tools and determination, you'll have a chair that you'll be able to pass down for generations!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Shaping and Drilling the Seat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Draw the shape of your seat onto a piece of wood.\", \"描述\": \"Use a piece of wood that's 1 ⁄8 in (4.8 cm) thick, 21 in (53 cm) wide, and 20 in (51 cm) long. Use a pencil to draw the shape of the chair's seat directly onto the wood. Make the seat U-shaped where the flat side is the front and the curve is the back. Be sure the chair is perfectly symmetrical or else it won't balance well.\\nYou can find templates for chair seats online or you can design your own.\\nMake a cutout of your seat on a sheet of paper so you can trace it onto your wood.\\nCherry is a great type of wood to use due to its color and durability.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the shape of the seat out using a band saw or jigsaw.\", \"描述\": \"Turn on your saw and guide your piece of wood slowly through the blade. Cut just outside of your pencil lines so you can still sand and shape the sides of your chair. Cut off any pieces of wood that aren't a part of your seat design and throw away the scraps.\\nWear safety glasses whenever you work with power tools to prevent anything from getting in your eyes.\\nYou may also use a handsaw if you don't have access to power tools.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark 10 points that are 2 ⁄4 in (5.7 cm) apart around the back of the seat.\", \"描述\": \"Measure to the left 1 ⁄8 in (2.9 cm) from the center of your chair along the back edge. Put a dot on the point with a pencil to mark where to drill your hole. Make 4 more dots to the left of your first mark each 2 ⁄4 in (5.7 cm) apart from one another. Then go back to the first mark you made and make 5 dots going along the right side of the seat.\\nDon't put a dot directly in the middle of the chair, since a spindle will go there eventually and would make a person sitting down uncomfortable.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes through each of your marks.\", \"描述\": \"Use a drill press to make a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) wide hole at a 12-degree angle toward the back of your chair. Make sure the hole goes all the way through to the other side of the seat. Continue drilling holes on each of your marks so they're angled toward the back of the seat.\\nIf you don't have a drill press, you can clamp your seat on a work surface and use a handheld drill.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make 4 holes that are 1 inch (2.5 cm) in the seat for the legs.\", \"描述\": \"Mark the holes for the 2 front legs so they're 4 inches (10 cm) from the front of the seat and 7 inches (18 cm) from the center. Make the holes on the back legs 15 inches (38 cm) from the front and 5 inches (13 cm) from the center of the seat. Use your drill press with a 1 in (2.5 cm) bit to make your holes. Angle the front legs to the sides and front of the chair by 5 degrees each. Angle the back legs 20 degrees toward the back of the seat and 5 degrees to the side.\\nFor example, when you're drilling the left legs, make the hole for the front leg angle to the left side and toward the front of the seat. For the back leg, angle the hole toward the back of the seat and to the left side.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Dig out the recessed area of the seat with a curved draw shave.\", \"描述\": \"A curved draw shave is a two-handled blade that's used to carve out large areas of wood. Dig the blade into the top of your seat and pull it toward you at an angle to dig out the shape of the seat. Work from the back of the seat toward the front to curve the area where you'll sit. You can dig up to halfway through the thickness of the wood to shape your seat how you want it.\\nLeave 2 in (5.1 cm) on the left, back, and right sides of the seat flat since that's where you'll be placing the spindles for the back and arms.\\nWork slowly while you're using the curved edge shave so the blade doesn't slip when you're pulling it toward you.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Bevel the edges of the seat with a straight edge shave.\", \"描述\": \"A straight edge shave is a two-handled tool with a straight blade used for carving wood. Hold both handles of the blade and pull it toward you at an angle into the wood to remove some of the wood. Work around the edge of your seat to make a bevel or curve so the sides of your chair aren't sharp.\\nBe careful while you pull the straight edge shave toward you so the blade doesn't slip.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Sand the seat with 320-grit sandpaper.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've carved out the majority of your seat and you're happy with the shape, go over the seat with 320-grit sandpaper to get rid of any rough edges or burrs. Wipe the sawdust off your chair occasionally with a clean shop cloth so you can see any rough areas.\\nYou can also use an electric sander, but it may leave marks on your chair. Be sure to go over the area again by hand to remove any marks.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Forming the Spindles and Legs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the front and back legs to size using your bandsaw.\", \"描述\": \"Cut your leg pieces from wood that's 2 in (5.1 cm) wide by 2 in (5.1 cm) thick. Make your 2 front legs so they're 16 in (41 cm) long and the 2 back legs so they're 13 in (33 cm).\\nWear safety glasses while you're working with power tools.\\nKeep your wood pressed down while working with a bandsaw, or else you may get an uneven cut.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Shape the legs into 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) thick cylinders using a lathe.\", \"描述\": \"A lathe is a large tool used to spin wood so you can shape it into a cylinder. Push the ends of the wood onto the grips of the lathe to secure it in place. Set the flat edge of a scraping lathe tool on the guard in front of the lathe and press it into your wood. Work across the entire surface of the wood while it spins so it becomes cylindrical. Periodically stop the lathe and check the thickness of your legs with a caliper.\\nLathes can be purchased online or from hardware stores.\\nWhen you first start shaping the wood, your scraper tool may meet some resistance. Use your nondominant hand to support the top of the tool so you can hold it sturdy.\\nAlways wear safety glasses while you use a lathe so you don't get sawdust in your eyes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Taper the ends of the legs so they're 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) on one end.\", \"描述\": \"Spin the leg on your lathe and use the scraper tool to shape one end. Work back and forth along the last 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) of the leg until it's only 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) thick. Keep the rest of the leg the same thickness. Continue working on each leg until each one has a taper.\\nThe tapered ends will fit into the holes you drilled into your seat.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the spindles for your back and arm supports.\", \"描述\": \"Use wood that's 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 1 in (2.5 cm) thick to start each of your spindles. Look for wood that's sturdy and flexible, such as white ash, to use for your spindles. Cut the blanks to size using your bandsaw. In total, you'll need 16 spindles varying in different lengths for the supports on your chair.\\nMake 10 of your spindles 29 in (74 cm) long for the back of the chair.\\nUse 2 spindles that are 9 in (23 cm) long for the front supports on the arms.\\nCut 2 spindles to 10 in (25 cm) long for the center arm supports.\\nMake 2 spindles 12 in (30 cm) long for the back arm supports.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use a block plane to round your spindles into ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) cylinders.\", \"描述\": \"A block plane is a hand tool used to smooth out edges and round wood by hand. Grab the top of the hand plane and pull it toward you to shave off the wood. Rotate the spindle every time you use the plane to round the edges evenly. Check the thickness of the cylinders occasionally until they are ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) thick.\\nYou may need to sand your spindles to get a completely smooth finish.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut ⁄16 in (1.4 cm) slots into the untapered ends of the legs.\", \"描述\": \"Use a table saw or your band saw to cut the slots into the thick ends of your legs. Make sure the slots are positioned directly in the middle of the leg. Cut out the slot so it's ⁄16 in (1.4 cm) wide and 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) deep. Make the slots at the end of each leg.\\nThe slots will fit onto the rocks so they are held firmly in place.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Back Spindles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Spread wood glue around the inside of the holes along the back of the seat.\", \"描述\": \"Open a bottle of wood glue and squeeze a generous dab of wood glue into each of the holes. Use your finger or a shop cloth to coat the entire inside of the hole with the glue to get the best adhesion.\\nWork on 1 hole at a time since wood glue can dry quickly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fit the end of the spindles into the holes.\", \"描述\": \"Look at the direction of the wood grains on your 29 in (74 cm) spindles and make sure it's perpendicular to the wood grain of your seat. Slide the ends of the spindles into the holes with the glue so the ends stick out from the bottom of the seat by about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm). Continue putting the rest of the back spindles into the holes until you've filled them all.\\nKeep the spindles for the chair's arms aside for now since you'll add them later.\\nIf you have trouble getting the spindles into the holes, tap the ends of them lightly with a wooden mallet.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Allow the glue on the spindles to set for 24 hours.\", \"描述\": \"Wood glue takes about 1 day to set completely, so leave your chair alone for a full day. Make sure the area stays cool and dry so the glue doesn't stay wet.\\nYou can work on other pieces of your chair while the glue is drying.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut and sand the ends of the spindles with a flush cut saw.\", \"描述\": \"A flush cut saw has a flexible blade so you can cut along the edge of your seat. Once the glue is completely set, use your saw to cut the spindles sticking through the bottom of your seat. Then, use 220-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges on your cuts.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Adding the Arms and Bask Crest\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut your arms and back crest to size with your bandsaw.\", \"描述\": \"Use a sturdy piece of wood, such as cherry, for your arms and back crest. Draw curved arcs on the wood so the middle of the arc is 3 in (7.6 cm) back from the edges. Cut the back crest so it's 23 in (58 cm) long, 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, and 1 ⁄8 in (2.9 cm) thick. Make the arms so they're 20 in (51 cm) long, 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, and 1 in (2.5 cm) thick.\\nThe back crest needs to match the curve at the back of your seat so the spindles can fit in it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes in the bottom of the back crest.\", \"描述\": \"Space the holes on your back crest 2 ⁄4 in (5.7 cm) apart to line up with your spindles. Use a handheld drill with a bit that's ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) thick to make the holes 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) deep.\\nClamp the back crest in a vise so it doesn't move around while you're drilling.\\nMake you drill straight into the wood or else the bit may come out the side.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes through the backs of your arm pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Put the hole about 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) from the back of each arm. Use a handheld drill or a drill press with a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) bit to make the hole at a 12-degree angle to match the back spindles.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Slide the arm pieces onto the outermost spindles.\", \"描述\": \"Guide the arms down the left- and right-most spindles so they're snug. Tap the arms lightly with a wooden mallet if you need to until the back of the arm is about 11 inches (28 cm) up from the seat. Put a clamp underneath the arm so it doesn't move down any further.\\nBe sure to do this before you put the back crest on or else you won't be able to attach the arms.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Line the holes in the back crest with wood glue and press it onto the spindles.\", \"描述\": \"Put a generous dab of wood glue into each hole in the back crest and spread it around the hole with a finger or shop cloth. Line up the holes with the spindles and press the back crest into place. Tap the back crest lightly with a hammer so the spindles go completely in the holes. Wipe up any excess wood glue that spilled out with a clean cloth.\\nYou may have to slightly bend the spindles to line up with the back crest, but they will not break or weaken.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) holes with a drill through the seat and arms.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have the back crest in place, you can drill the holes for the arm spindles. Choose where you want to position the spindles and mark the spots with a pencil. Use a ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) drill bit to bore through the arms and seat completely so they line up with one another.\\nWork slowly and carefully so the spindles and back crest don't move around.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Apply wood glue to the holes and slide the arm spindles into place.\", \"描述\": \"Put a dab of wood glue into each of the holes and spread it around the entire surface. Slide the spindles through the top of each arm and through the seat so they extend an equal amount from each side. Let the glue dry for a full day before working on your chair again.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Trim off any excess spindle on the arms after 24 hours using a flush cut saw.\", \"描述\": \"Once the glue is set, use your flush cut saw to trim any spindles on the arms of your chair. Try to get as close to the wood as you can so it's a smooth cut. If you need to, use 220-grit sandpaper to smooth any edges that are rough after you make your cut.\\nYou do not need to trim anything off of the back crest.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Putting in the Legs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Line the holes for the legs with wood glue.\", \"描述\": \"Place a dab of glue in each of the holes for your chair's legs and spread it around the inside of the hole with your finger or a shop cloth. Make sure it coats the entire surface evenly to get the best adhesion.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pound the tapered ends of your legs into the seat with a mallet.\", \"描述\": \"Position the sides of your legs that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) on the bottom of your seat. Hold the seat sturdy with your nondominant hand and tap on the ends of the legs with your mallet to work them into the holes. They will be a tight fit so keep hitting the legs until they fit inside. Wipe any excess glue that comes out with a shop cloth.\\nMake sure you put the longer legs in the back 2 holes on the seat and the shorter legs in the front.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove any wood sticking out from the seat after 24 hours with a flush cut saw.\", \"描述\": \"Start working on your chair again the next day so the glue can completely set. Hold the blade of your flush cut saw sideways against your seat use it to trim any wood sticking out from your leg. Cut the wood completely until it's smooth with the seat.\\nYou may need to use 220-grit sandpaper to get the edges completely smooth.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Finishing with the Rockers\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the shape of the rockers out from your planks of wood.\", \"描述\": \"Trace the shape of your rockers on your piece of wood. The rockers should be 36 in (91 cm) long, 4 in (10 cm) tall at their tallest point, and ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) thick. Use a bandsaw to cut the curved shape of the rockers out of the wood you're using.\\nUse the same wood you used as your seat so your rocking chair looks uniform.\\nYou can find templates and shapes for the rockers online.\\nMake sure the backs of the rockers are longer than the front to prevent the chair from tipping over.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Clamp the pieces together to plane them evenly.\", \"描述\": \"Put the rockers together upside down so they're lined up. Use your block plane to smooth the curved bottoms of the rockers at the same time. That way, the rockers won't wobble or feel uneven when you're sitting in the chair. Keep smoothing out the bottom curves of the rockers until you're satisfied with the shape.\\nThe bottom curve of the rocker should be no more than 45 degrees since that could make the rocking motion feel choppy while you're sitting down.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue and clamp the rockers into the slots on the legs.\", \"描述\": \"Coat the insides of the slots on the chair legs with wood glue and spread it around with your finger. Slide the rockers into the slots on the bottom of the chair legs. If you need to, tap the bottom of the rocker with a wooden mallet so they fit tightly in place.\\nThe rockers will have a snug fit since they are slightly smaller than the thickness of the slots.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) holes through the legs and rockers.\", \"描述\": \"Once the rockers are glued in place, use a drill with a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) bit to make a hole through the leg and rocker. Make sure the hole goes completely through both sides of the leg. Keep drilling holes in each leg this way so you can insert dowels.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Insert wooden dowels through the holes to hold the legs in place.\", \"描述\": \"Place a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) dowel into each of the holes and slide them completely through. Once the dowels are in place, let the glue dry for 24 hours and your chair is finished and ready to use!\\nThe dowels add extra support to the rockers rather than just relying on the wood glue.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can buy a rocking chair kit from many stores or online if you don't want to make your rocking chair from scratch.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always wear safety glasses while you're working with power tools.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,511 |
How to Build a Roof
|
1. Choosing a Style and Materials
1-1. Choose your roof style.
There are hundreds of roof types out there, and they are all suitable for different purposes and allow for different materials. The two major categories of roof are flat and pitched, and one of the main things that will determine the actual style of roof you need is the shape of the building. It will be much more difficult to build a round roof onto a square building, for instance, so allow the shape of the structure to guide you. Some of the most common roof styles are:
Gable roof: this looks like an inverted V, and is the easiest and most popular roof style in North America. There are also several variations on the gable roof that are designed for buildings that aren’t simple rectangles, including the saltbox roof, which is suited to join walls that are different heights.
Flat roof: these roofs are mostly flat, but usually have a bit of a slope. As such, they allow for outdoor living gardens or a living space on top.
Hip and pyramid roofs: as the name suggests, a pyramid roof is a roof in the shape of a pyramid and is designed for a square building. A hip roof uses the same basic shape, but is elongated and is designed for a rectangular building. The hip roof is also very popular in North America.
Gambrel roof: this is also known as the barn roof, as this style is often used on barns. This roof style maximizes the amount of usable space in the attic or top floor.
Shed roof: this is a flat roof style with a greater slope, and is most common on sheds, porches, and home additions.
1-2. Consider your climate.
Different types of roofs are more suitable for certain climates, so it’s important to know a few of these things before deciding what kind of roof to build. Not only should you consider how hot or how cold it gets, but also how much precipitation you receive.
Gable roofs are not suitable for areas with high winds, while the hip roof is much sturdier in high winds.
Flat roofs are practical in hot, dry climates, but not areas that receive high amounts of precipitation.
There are many types of pitched roofs, and these are more suitable for climates that receive more precipitation. The amount of snow and rain you receive will help you determine the actual pitch of the roof.
In temperate climates that see all four seasons and snow, the simplest pitch roofs are the best, as there are fewer places where leaves and needles can get stuck, and they allow snow and rain to run off easily.
1-3. Choose your materials.
There are many types of roofs, and each roof can be made in various ways with different materials. However, some styles are more conducive to certain materials, while other styles don’t allow for specific materials.
For pitched roofs, the truss (the framework) can be made of wood or metal, and the outside can have wood or asphalt shingles, clay or concrete tiles, or metal sheeting. The type of truss you build will be suited for different weights, which may help you determine the exterior materials you use.
For flat roofs, you can use asphalt, metal, fiberglass, or poly-vinyl as the exterior, but shingles won’t work.
Algae-resistant asphalt shingles are suitable for humid climates, while clay tiles are popular in arid climates. Areas that receive heavy snowfall must have strong roofs built with durable materials, and metal or asphalt shingles are the most common exterior materials.
1-4. Consider the location.
Building a roof under an old tree may not be ideal if any heavy branches are liable to come down on it. Drainage is another thing to consider, because roofs should be equipped with a way to drain precipitation, and you don’t want the run-off running right into your yard or a neighbor’s yard. If you live in a neighborhood where the houses are built close together, you might need to build a roof with a smaller eave than you would otherwise.
2. Preparing for Roof Building
2-1. Determine your pitch.
The pitch of a roof is the rise—the vertical angle of the roof—over the run (the horizontal measurement). Pitch ratios range from 2:12 to 12:12. A low-pitched roof would be 2:12, and it means that over the space of 12 inches, the roof only rises two inches. You can still walk on a 5:12 roof, which means the roof rises five inches over every 12 inches. The steepest pitch for a roof is 12:12, which creates a 45-degree angle, and where the roof vertically rises 12 inches for every 12 inches it goes horizontally.
2-2. Measure your roof.
To determine material quantities, you need to do some calculations. Accuracy is key here, because miscalculations could lead to major overspending. The best way is to use a roofing calculator that can help you determine the area you’ll be working with and the material quantities you'll need.
2-3. Create a plan.
The plan should consist of a diagram of your roof that includes the style and shape, all the measurements, materials, and truss spacing.
2-4. Purchase materials.
Once you’ve decided on the pitch for your roof and measured the area, you can purchase your materials. Prefabricated trusses are the quickest and easiest way to create a roof frame, and most new roofs today are built this way. Each roof truss has the rafters and ceiling joist built in. Allow two to three weeks lead time when you order trusses. Materials you may need to build a basic gable roof include:
Prefabricated trusses
Sheathing (also known as decking) material, such as plywood or fiberglass
Underlayment, such as tar paper (and possibly an ice barrier in colder climates)
Roof covering, such as tiles, shingles, or metal
Roofing nails
3. Building a Basic Gable Roof
3-1. Understand the steps involved.
Once you’ve chosen your style, design, and materials, it’s time to actually build your roof. The process can be broken down into four main steps, and they are:
Framing: this is the construction and installation of the roof frame, which can be done with premade trusses.
Sheathing: this is the layer of material that goes on top of the frame and provides the surface of the roof.
Underlayment installation: this is a protective layer that covers the sheathing. This step may also include the installation of an ice barrier on top of the underlayment.
Roof cover installation: this layer goes on top of the underlayment and protects the roof from the elements.
3-2. Mount the trusses.
To complete this step, the wall frames of the building must already be level, plumb, and square. Use ladders or scaffolding if you are building the roof onto a building that is still a frame. Hoist the trusses onto the roof. This can be done either with many pairs of hands, or with the assistance of a crane.
Trusses are often spaced 12, 16, or 24 inches apart. Your spacing will depend on building codes and how much weight (snow) the roof will have to hold.
Without a crane, it will be easiest to hoist the trusses up onto the roof lying flat, and once there they can be raised into position.
3-3. Install temporary braces.
Before you can install the trusses, you will need to install temporary braces that the trusses can rest on until the sheathing and permanent bracing are installed. At the center of the back wall, nail the bottom half of one two-by-six board that's 16 feet long to the top of the outside wall, making sure you fasten it to a stud. The top half of the brace should extend over the top of the roof so it can be fastened to the first truss. Nail another two-by-six brace of the same length six feet to the left of this center brace, and a third brace six feet to the right of the center brace. Repeat the same steps to install three temporary braces at the front of the building.
3-4. Install the end trusses.
Install the two end trusses at the front and back of the building according to the manufacturer’s instructions, making sure you affix them to the temporary bracing. Take a batten that is slightly longer than the distance that will separate your trusses. Nail the batten to the end truss (at the back of the building) so that it juts out in a perpendicular fashion toward the front of the building. This will be affixed to the next truss as a temporary bracing.
3-5. Install the standard trusses.
Working toward the front of the building, install the first standard truss according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Nail it to the batten from the first truss as well. Take a new batten, one that’s long enough to attach to four properly spaced trusses, and nail this to the end truss and the first standard truss.
Continue installing the common or standard trusses at regular intervals, depending on your plan. As you reach the end of the batten, install progressively longer batten ties (going by four or so truss lengths), until you can install a batten that spans the length of the roof from one end truss to the other.
Some areas have building codes that dictate a roofing system must be attached to the structure below with steel connector plates or hurricane clips, so be sure you’re building your roof to code.
Once all the trusses are installed, install permanent bracing as per the truss manufacturer’s instructions.
3-6. Sheath the roof.
Once your trusses are anchored and permanently braced, you can begin sheathing the roof. Sheathing is installed lengthwise, starting at the bottom corner, and moving across the bottom first. When you move up to the next row, begin at the same end with a half sheet of sheathing, so that your sheathing is staggered. Always join panels over supports, and ensure that panels are one-eighth of an inch apart. Repeat for both sides of the roof.
To fasten the sheathing to the frame, use 8D common or deformed shank nails. Fasteners should be three-eighths of an inch from the edges. Fasteners should be spaced six inches apart around the edges of each panel, and 12 inches apart within each panel.
3-7. Install the drip edge.
This is metal flashing that will protect the bottom of the sheathing from rain and direct it into a gutter or away from the house.
3-8. Install the underlayment.
The most common underlayment is roofing felt, which is similar to tar paper, but felt uses asphalt instead of tar. The main purpose of the underlayment is waterproofing.
Beginning at the bottom where you started with the sheathing, roll the underlayment out flat, going lengthwise across the sheathing. Staple it into place.
Once the first layer is down, roll out the next layer, working your way up toward the roof ridge. Overlap the layers by about six inches.
Continue laying the underlayment up to the ridge, or within four inches of the ridge.
Repeat the same process for the other side of the roof.
Once you’ve laid the underlayment on both sides, roll out a final layer to go over the ridge like a hat. Make sure this layer overlaps the underlayment on either side of the ridge by at least eight inches.
3-9. Install the roof cover.
Like the sheathing and underlayment, the roof cover is installed lengthwise from the bottom up. Like sheathing, shingles should be staggered, and like underlayment, they should also overlap. Work your way up to the ridge on either side, and finish the ridge with ridge cap shingles.
Warnings
Always adhere to all local building codes, and ensure you have the proper permits before you begin construction.
Always wear proper fall equipment.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:00",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing a Style and Materials\\n1-1. Choose your roof style.\\nThere are hundreds of roof types out there, and they are all suitable for different purposes and allow for different materials. The two major categories of roof are flat and pitched, and one of the main things that will determine the actual style of roof you need is the shape of the building. It will be much more difficult to build a round roof onto a square building, for instance, so allow the shape of the structure to guide you. Some of the most common roof styles are: \\nGable roof: this looks like an inverted V, and is the easiest and most popular roof style in North America. There are also several variations on the gable roof that are designed for buildings that aren’t simple rectangles, including the saltbox roof, which is suited to join walls that are different heights. \\nFlat roof: these roofs are mostly flat, but usually have a bit of a slope. As such, they allow for outdoor living gardens or a living space on top.\\nHip and pyramid roofs: as the name suggests, a pyramid roof is a roof in the shape of a pyramid and is designed for a square building. A hip roof uses the same basic shape, but is elongated and is designed for a rectangular building. The hip roof is also very popular in North America.\\nGambrel roof: this is also known as the barn roof, as this style is often used on barns. This roof style maximizes the amount of usable space in the attic or top floor.\\nShed roof: this is a flat roof style with a greater slope, and is most common on sheds, porches, and home additions.\\n1-2. Consider your climate.\\nDifferent types of roofs are more suitable for certain climates, so it’s important to know a few of these things before deciding what kind of roof to build. Not only should you consider how hot or how cold it gets, but also how much precipitation you receive.\\nGable roofs are not suitable for areas with high winds, while the hip roof is much sturdier in high winds.\\nFlat roofs are practical in hot, dry climates, but not areas that receive high amounts of precipitation. \\nThere are many types of pitched roofs, and these are more suitable for climates that receive more precipitation. The amount of snow and rain you receive will help you determine the actual pitch of the roof.\\nIn temperate climates that see all four seasons and snow, the simplest pitch roofs are the best, as there are fewer places where leaves and needles can get stuck, and they allow snow and rain to run off easily.\\n1-3. Choose your materials.\\nThere are many types of roofs, and each roof can be made in various ways with different materials. However, some styles are more conducive to certain materials, while other styles don’t allow for specific materials.\\nFor pitched roofs, the truss (the framework) can be made of wood or metal, and the outside can have wood or asphalt shingles, clay or concrete tiles, or metal sheeting. The type of truss you build will be suited for different weights, which may help you determine the exterior materials you use.\\nFor flat roofs, you can use asphalt, metal, fiberglass, or poly-vinyl as the exterior, but shingles won’t work.\\nAlgae-resistant asphalt shingles are suitable for humid climates, while clay tiles are popular in arid climates. Areas that receive heavy snowfall must have strong roofs built with durable materials, and metal or asphalt shingles are the most common exterior materials.\\n1-4. Consider the location.\\nBuilding a roof under an old tree may not be ideal if any heavy branches are liable to come down on it. Drainage is another thing to consider, because roofs should be equipped with a way to drain precipitation, and you don’t want the run-off running right into your yard or a neighbor’s yard. If you live in a neighborhood where the houses are built close together, you might need to build a roof with a smaller eave than you would otherwise.\\n2. Preparing for Roof Building\\n2-1. Determine your pitch.\\nThe pitch of a roof is the rise—the vertical angle of the roof—over the run (the horizontal measurement). Pitch ratios range from 2:12 to 12:12. A low-pitched roof would be 2:12, and it means that over the space of 12 inches, the roof only rises two inches. You can still walk on a 5:12 roof, which means the roof rises five inches over every 12 inches. The steepest pitch for a roof is 12:12, which creates a 45-degree angle, and where the roof vertically rises 12 inches for every 12 inches it goes horizontally.\\n2-2. Measure your roof.\\nTo determine material quantities, you need to do some calculations. Accuracy is key here, because miscalculations could lead to major overspending. The best way is to use a roofing calculator that can help you determine the area you’ll be working with and the material quantities you'll need.\\n2-3. Create a plan.\\nThe plan should consist of a diagram of your roof that includes the style and shape, all the measurements, materials, and truss spacing.\\n2-4. Purchase materials.\\nOnce you’ve decided on the pitch for your roof and measured the area, you can purchase your materials. Prefabricated trusses are the quickest and easiest way to create a roof frame, and most new roofs today are built this way. Each roof truss has the rafters and ceiling joist built in. Allow two to three weeks lead time when you order trusses. Materials you may need to build a basic gable roof include:\\nPrefabricated trusses\\nSheathing (also known as decking) material, such as plywood or fiberglass\\nUnderlayment, such as tar paper (and possibly an ice barrier in colder climates)\\nRoof covering, such as tiles, shingles, or metal\\nRoofing nails\\n3. Building a Basic Gable Roof\\n3-1. Understand the steps involved.\\nOnce you’ve chosen your style, design, and materials, it’s time to actually build your roof. The process can be broken down into four main steps, and they are:\\nFraming: this is the construction and installation of the roof frame, which can be done with premade trusses.\\nSheathing: this is the layer of material that goes on top of the frame and provides the surface of the roof.\\nUnderlayment installation: this is a protective layer that covers the sheathing. This step may also include the installation of an ice barrier on top of the underlayment.\\nRoof cover installation: this layer goes on top of the underlayment and protects the roof from the elements.\\n3-2. Mount the trusses.\\nTo complete this step, the wall frames of the building must already be level, plumb, and square. Use ladders or scaffolding if you are building the roof onto a building that is still a frame. Hoist the trusses onto the roof. This can be done either with many pairs of hands, or with the assistance of a crane.\\nTrusses are often spaced 12, 16, or 24 inches apart. Your spacing will depend on building codes and how much weight (snow) the roof will have to hold.\\nWithout a crane, it will be easiest to hoist the trusses up onto the roof lying flat, and once there they can be raised into position.\\n3-3. Install temporary braces.\\nBefore you can install the trusses, you will need to install temporary braces that the trusses can rest on until the sheathing and permanent bracing are installed. At the center of the back wall, nail the bottom half of one two-by-six board that's 16 feet long to the top of the outside wall, making sure you fasten it to a stud. The top half of the brace should extend over the top of the roof so it can be fastened to the first truss. Nail another two-by-six brace of the same length six feet to the left of this center brace, and a third brace six feet to the right of the center brace. Repeat the same steps to install three temporary braces at the front of the building.\\n3-4. Install the end trusses.\\nInstall the two end trusses at the front and back of the building according to the manufacturer’s instructions, making sure you affix them to the temporary bracing. Take a batten that is slightly longer than the distance that will separate your trusses. Nail the batten to the end truss (at the back of the building) so that it juts out in a perpendicular fashion toward the front of the building. This will be affixed to the next truss as a temporary bracing.\\n3-5. Install the standard trusses.\\nWorking toward the front of the building, install the first standard truss according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Nail it to the batten from the first truss as well. Take a new batten, one that’s long enough to attach to four properly spaced trusses, and nail this to the end truss and the first standard truss.\\nContinue installing the common or standard trusses at regular intervals, depending on your plan. As you reach the end of the batten, install progressively longer batten ties (going by four or so truss lengths), until you can install a batten that spans the length of the roof from one end truss to the other.\\nSome areas have building codes that dictate a roofing system must be attached to the structure below with steel connector plates or hurricane clips, so be sure you’re building your roof to code.\\nOnce all the trusses are installed, install permanent bracing as per the truss manufacturer’s instructions.\\n3-6. Sheath the roof.\\nOnce your trusses are anchored and permanently braced, you can begin sheathing the roof. Sheathing is installed lengthwise, starting at the bottom corner, and moving across the bottom first. When you move up to the next row, begin at the same end with a half sheet of sheathing, so that your sheathing is staggered. Always join panels over supports, and ensure that panels are one-eighth of an inch apart. Repeat for both sides of the roof.\\nTo fasten the sheathing to the frame, use 8D common or deformed shank nails. Fasteners should be three-eighths of an inch from the edges. Fasteners should be spaced six inches apart around the edges of each panel, and 12 inches apart within each panel.\\n3-7. Install the drip edge.\\nThis is metal flashing that will protect the bottom of the sheathing from rain and direct it into a gutter or away from the house.\\n3-8. Install the underlayment.\\nThe most common underlayment is roofing felt, which is similar to tar paper, but felt uses asphalt instead of tar. The main purpose of the underlayment is waterproofing.\\nBeginning at the bottom where you started with the sheathing, roll the underlayment out flat, going lengthwise across the sheathing. Staple it into place.\\nOnce the first layer is down, roll out the next layer, working your way up toward the roof ridge. Overlap the layers by about six inches.\\nContinue laying the underlayment up to the ridge, or within four inches of the ridge.\\nRepeat the same process for the other side of the roof.\\nOnce you’ve laid the underlayment on both sides, roll out a final layer to go over the ridge like a hat. Make sure this layer overlaps the underlayment on either side of the ridge by at least eight inches.\\n3-9. Install the roof cover.\\nLike the sheathing and underlayment, the roof cover is installed lengthwise from the bottom up. Like sheathing, shingles should be staggered, and like underlayment, they should also overlap. Work your way up to the ridge on either side, and finish the ridge with ridge cap shingles.\\nWarnings\\nAlways adhere to all local building codes, and ensure you have the proper permits before you begin construction.\\nAlways wear proper fall equipment.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A roof is much more than just the decorative top of a building. A roof provides protection from the elements and precipitation, helps drain water away from a structure, and provides insulation that helps keep the interior of a building warm or cool, depending on the season. There are several types of roofs, but the best one for your needs will depend on the structure, the climate, and the amount and type of precipitation you receive. Regardless of the type of roof you want to build, safety should always be a priority, as roofing work can be dangerous, and fall equipment should always be used.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing a Style and Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose your roof style.\", \"描述\": \"There are hundreds of roof types out there, and they are all suitable for different purposes and allow for different materials. The two major categories of roof are flat and pitched, and one of the main things that will determine the actual style of roof you need is the shape of the building. It will be much more difficult to build a round roof onto a square building, for instance, so allow the shape of the structure to guide you. Some of the most common roof styles are: \\nGable roof: this looks like an inverted V, and is the easiest and most popular roof style in North America. There are also several variations on the gable roof that are designed for buildings that aren’t simple rectangles, including the saltbox roof, which is suited to join walls that are different heights. \\nFlat roof: these roofs are mostly flat, but usually have a bit of a slope. As such, they allow for outdoor living gardens or a living space on top.\\nHip and pyramid roofs: as the name suggests, a pyramid roof is a roof in the shape of a pyramid and is designed for a square building. A hip roof uses the same basic shape, but is elongated and is designed for a rectangular building. The hip roof is also very popular in North America.\\nGambrel roof: this is also known as the barn roof, as this style is often used on barns. This roof style maximizes the amount of usable space in the attic or top floor.\\nShed roof: this is a flat roof style with a greater slope, and is most common on sheds, porches, and home additions.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider your climate.\", \"描述\": \"Different types of roofs are more suitable for certain climates, so it’s important to know a few of these things before deciding what kind of roof to build. Not only should you consider how hot or how cold it gets, but also how much precipitation you receive.\\nGable roofs are not suitable for areas with high winds, while the hip roof is much sturdier in high winds.\\nFlat roofs are practical in hot, dry climates, but not areas that receive high amounts of precipitation. \\nThere are many types of pitched roofs, and these are more suitable for climates that receive more precipitation. The amount of snow and rain you receive will help you determine the actual pitch of the roof.\\nIn temperate climates that see all four seasons and snow, the simplest pitch roofs are the best, as there are fewer places where leaves and needles can get stuck, and they allow snow and rain to run off easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose your materials.\", \"描述\": \"There are many types of roofs, and each roof can be made in various ways with different materials. However, some styles are more conducive to certain materials, while other styles don’t allow for specific materials.\\nFor pitched roofs, the truss (the framework) can be made of wood or metal, and the outside can have wood or asphalt shingles, clay or concrete tiles, or metal sheeting. The type of truss you build will be suited for different weights, which may help you determine the exterior materials you use.\\nFor flat roofs, you can use asphalt, metal, fiberglass, or poly-vinyl as the exterior, but shingles won’t work.\\nAlgae-resistant asphalt shingles are suitable for humid climates, while clay tiles are popular in arid climates. Areas that receive heavy snowfall must have strong roofs built with durable materials, and metal or asphalt shingles are the most common exterior materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider the location.\", \"描述\": \"Building a roof under an old tree may not be ideal if any heavy branches are liable to come down on it. Drainage is another thing to consider, because roofs should be equipped with a way to drain precipitation, and you don’t want the run-off running right into your yard or a neighbor’s yard. If you live in a neighborhood where the houses are built close together, you might need to build a roof with a smaller eave than you would otherwise.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Preparing for Roof Building\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine your pitch.\", \"描述\": \"The pitch of a roof is the rise—the vertical angle of the roof—over the run (the horizontal measurement). Pitch ratios range from 2:12 to 12:12. A low-pitched roof would be 2:12, and it means that over the space of 12 inches, the roof only rises two inches. You can still walk on a 5:12 roof, which means the roof rises five inches over every 12 inches. The steepest pitch for a roof is 12:12, which creates a 45-degree angle, and where the roof vertically rises 12 inches for every 12 inches it goes horizontally.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure your roof.\", \"描述\": \"To determine material quantities, you need to do some calculations. Accuracy is key here, because miscalculations could lead to major overspending. The best way is to use a roofing calculator that can help you determine the area you’ll be working with and the material quantities you'll need.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a plan.\", \"描述\": \"The plan should consist of a diagram of your roof that includes the style and shape, all the measurements, materials, and truss spacing.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Purchase materials.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve decided on the pitch for your roof and measured the area, you can purchase your materials. Prefabricated trusses are the quickest and easiest way to create a roof frame, and most new roofs today are built this way. Each roof truss has the rafters and ceiling joist built in. Allow two to three weeks lead time when you order trusses. Materials you may need to build a basic gable roof include:\\nPrefabricated trusses\\nSheathing (also known as decking) material, such as plywood or fiberglass\\nUnderlayment, such as tar paper (and possibly an ice barrier in colder climates)\\nRoof covering, such as tiles, shingles, or metal\\nRoofing nails\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Basic Gable Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the steps involved.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve chosen your style, design, and materials, it’s time to actually build your roof. The process can be broken down into four main steps, and they are:\\nFraming: this is the construction and installation of the roof frame, which can be done with premade trusses.\\nSheathing: this is the layer of material that goes on top of the frame and provides the surface of the roof.\\nUnderlayment installation: this is a protective layer that covers the sheathing. This step may also include the installation of an ice barrier on top of the underlayment.\\nRoof cover installation: this layer goes on top of the underlayment and protects the roof from the elements.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mount the trusses.\", \"描述\": \"To complete this step, the wall frames of the building must already be level, plumb, and square. Use ladders or scaffolding if you are building the roof onto a building that is still a frame. Hoist the trusses onto the roof. This can be done either with many pairs of hands, or with the assistance of a crane.\\nTrusses are often spaced 12, 16, or 24 inches apart. Your spacing will depend on building codes and how much weight (snow) the roof will have to hold.\\nWithout a crane, it will be easiest to hoist the trusses up onto the roof lying flat, and once there they can be raised into position.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install temporary braces.\", \"描述\": \"Before you can install the trusses, you will need to install temporary braces that the trusses can rest on until the sheathing and permanent bracing are installed. At the center of the back wall, nail the bottom half of one two-by-six board that's 16 feet long to the top of the outside wall, making sure you fasten it to a stud. The top half of the brace should extend over the top of the roof so it can be fastened to the first truss. Nail another two-by-six brace of the same length six feet to the left of this center brace, and a third brace six feet to the right of the center brace. Repeat the same steps to install three temporary braces at the front of the building.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the end trusses.\", \"描述\": \"Install the two end trusses at the front and back of the building according to the manufacturer’s instructions, making sure you affix them to the temporary bracing. Take a batten that is slightly longer than the distance that will separate your trusses. Nail the batten to the end truss (at the back of the building) so that it juts out in a perpendicular fashion toward the front of the building. This will be affixed to the next truss as a temporary bracing.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install the standard trusses.\", \"描述\": \"Working toward the front of the building, install the first standard truss according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Nail it to the batten from the first truss as well. Take a new batten, one that’s long enough to attach to four properly spaced trusses, and nail this to the end truss and the first standard truss.\\nContinue installing the common or standard trusses at regular intervals, depending on your plan. As you reach the end of the batten, install progressively longer batten ties (going by four or so truss lengths), until you can install a batten that spans the length of the roof from one end truss to the other.\\nSome areas have building codes that dictate a roofing system must be attached to the structure below with steel connector plates or hurricane clips, so be sure you’re building your roof to code.\\nOnce all the trusses are installed, install permanent bracing as per the truss manufacturer’s instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Sheath the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Once your trusses are anchored and permanently braced, you can begin sheathing the roof. Sheathing is installed lengthwise, starting at the bottom corner, and moving across the bottom first. When you move up to the next row, begin at the same end with a half sheet of sheathing, so that your sheathing is staggered. Always join panels over supports, and ensure that panels are one-eighth of an inch apart. Repeat for both sides of the roof.\\nTo fasten the sheathing to the frame, use 8D common or deformed shank nails. Fasteners should be three-eighths of an inch from the edges. Fasteners should be spaced six inches apart around the edges of each panel, and 12 inches apart within each panel.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install the drip edge.\", \"描述\": \"This is metal flashing that will protect the bottom of the sheathing from rain and direct it into a gutter or away from the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Install the underlayment.\", \"描述\": \"The most common underlayment is roofing felt, which is similar to tar paper, but felt uses asphalt instead of tar. The main purpose of the underlayment is waterproofing.\\nBeginning at the bottom where you started with the sheathing, roll the underlayment out flat, going lengthwise across the sheathing. Staple it into place.\\nOnce the first layer is down, roll out the next layer, working your way up toward the roof ridge. Overlap the layers by about six inches.\\nContinue laying the underlayment up to the ridge, or within four inches of the ridge.\\nRepeat the same process for the other side of the roof.\\nOnce you’ve laid the underlayment on both sides, roll out a final layer to go over the ridge like a hat. Make sure this layer overlaps the underlayment on either side of the ridge by at least eight inches.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Install the roof cover.\", \"描述\": \"Like the sheathing and underlayment, the roof cover is installed lengthwise from the bottom up. Like sheathing, shingles should be staggered, and like underlayment, they should also overlap. Work your way up to the ridge on either side, and finish the ridge with ridge cap shingles.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Always adhere to all local building codes, and ensure you have the proper permits before you begin construction.\\n\", \"Always wear proper fall equipment.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,512 |
How to Build a Room for Your Furby or Stuffed Animal
|
1. Cardboard Box Room
1-1. Find a nice big cardboard box.
Set it out in some free space of your room.
1-2. Make a carpet for your stuffed animal's room.
Choose fabric that is nice and soft, such as polar fleece or an old unwanted woolen/cashmere sweater or even a unwanted blanket.
1-3. Paint words or patterns onto the walls of the box using a paintbrush or your finger.
Add words such as the stuffed animal's name, initials or words that correspond with its personality. You can draw pictures too!
1-4. Make a bed for the stuffed animal.
This could be a scarf, folded up. You could tuck any fabric inside a small box to make an easy bed.
1-5. If you have cardboard flaps that you're using as doors, measure out the length of your pet.
Go around it in tape; make sure it's bigger than your stuffed animal. Paint it, cut and take the tape off. Add to the box, so that your stuffed animal can get in by itself.
1-6. Add some furniture.
If you have old dollhouse furniture, add that to the house. Cut paper to size fold over a small part of it and glue it to the wall like the table.
1-7. Put your animal inside.
Throw a housewarming party to make your little friend feel loved.
2. Laundry Basket Room
2-1. Find an empty laundry basket.
If you can't find one, ask your parent or guardian
2-2. Put a blanket for the carpet on the floor of the basket.
It doesn't have to be brand new.
2-3. Make a bed out a small cloth folded up.
2-4. If you have some Styrofoam, cut out a square.
Put that square next to the furby's or stuffed animal's bed to serve as a side table. Put a book, lamp and things onto it.
2-5. Feed the stuffed animal.
Then put it down for a nap.
3. Drawer Room
3-1. Open up your chosen drawer.
Check if you have enough space for your toy. The best type of drawer would be the one in your bedside table or any drawer in your bedroom.
3-2. Place a soft fabric inside your drawer.
If you're allowed to, stick the fabric to the floor of your drawer with hot glue. Velvet or silk would work best as the lining fabric.
3-3. Add a bed.
Make a bed by making a small pillow, the size of your toy's head, and placing some leftover fabric on top of a small bed. Then place the pillow on top. If you want to make a blanket too, make it the size of your toy's body.
3-4. Add some furniture.
If you have little doll house furniture, you might want to use it. If you have a torch, add it in one corner and turn it on while your toy's inside. Do this just before bedtime, and turn it off when your toy goes to sleep.
3-5. Before putting your toy to sleep or to play inside its little house, groom it.
Wipe only its fur with a barely dampened cloth, then brush your toy's fur and hair. Now let your toy enjoy its new house!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:00",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Cardboard Box Room\\n1-1. Find a nice big cardboard box.\\nSet it out in some free space of your room.\\n1-2. Make a carpet for your stuffed animal's room.\\nChoose fabric that is nice and soft, such as polar fleece or an old unwanted woolen/cashmere sweater or even a unwanted blanket.\\n1-3. Paint words or patterns onto the walls of the box using a paintbrush or your finger.\\nAdd words such as the stuffed animal's name, initials or words that correspond with its personality. You can draw pictures too!\\n1-4. Make a bed for the stuffed animal.\\nThis could be a scarf, folded up. You could tuck any fabric inside a small box to make an easy bed.\\n1-5. If you have cardboard flaps that you're using as doors, measure out the length of your pet.\\nGo around it in tape; make sure it's bigger than your stuffed animal. Paint it, cut and take the tape off. Add to the box, so that your stuffed animal can get in by itself.\\n1-6. Add some furniture.\\nIf you have old dollhouse furniture, add that to the house. Cut paper to size fold over a small part of it and glue it to the wall like the table.\\n1-7. Put your animal inside.\\nThrow a housewarming party to make your little friend feel loved.\\n2. Laundry Basket Room\\n2-1. Find an empty laundry basket.\\nIf you can't find one, ask your parent or guardian\\n2-2. Put a blanket for the carpet on the floor of the basket.\\nIt doesn't have to be brand new.\\n2-3. Make a bed out a small cloth folded up.\\n\\n2-4. If you have some Styrofoam, cut out a square.\\nPut that square next to the furby's or stuffed animal's bed to serve as a side table. Put a book, lamp and things onto it.\\n2-5. Feed the stuffed animal.\\nThen put it down for a nap.\\n3. Drawer Room\\n3-1. Open up your chosen drawer.\\nCheck if you have enough space for your toy. The best type of drawer would be the one in your bedside table or any drawer in your bedroom.\\n3-2. Place a soft fabric inside your drawer.\\nIf you're allowed to, stick the fabric to the floor of your drawer with hot glue. Velvet or silk would work best as the lining fabric.\\n3-3. Add a bed.\\nMake a bed by making a small pillow, the size of your toy's head, and placing some leftover fabric on top of a small bed. Then place the pillow on top. If you want to make a blanket too, make it the size of your toy's body.\\n3-4. Add some furniture.\\nIf you have little doll house furniture, you might want to use it. If you have a torch, add it in one corner and turn it on while your toy's inside. Do this just before bedtime, and turn it off when your toy goes to sleep.\\n3-5. Before putting your toy to sleep or to play inside its little house, groom it.\\nWipe only its fur with a barely dampened cloth, then brush your toy's fur and hair. Now let your toy enjoy its new house!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Have you ever wanted to make a room for your Furby or stuffed animal but couldn't figure out how to do it? This article will teach you how to create a space just for your Furby or plush.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cardboard Box Room\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a nice big cardboard box.\", \"描述\": \"Set it out in some free space of your room.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a carpet for your stuffed animal's room.\", \"描述\": \"Choose fabric that is nice and soft, such as polar fleece or an old unwanted woolen/cashmere sweater or even a unwanted blanket.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint words or patterns onto the walls of the box using a paintbrush or your finger.\", \"描述\": \"Add words such as the stuffed animal's name, initials or words that correspond with its personality. You can draw pictures too!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make a bed for the stuffed animal.\", \"描述\": \"This could be a scarf, folded up. You could tuck any fabric inside a small box to make an easy bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"If you have cardboard flaps that you're using as doors, measure out the length of your pet.\", \"描述\": \"Go around it in tape; make sure it's bigger than your stuffed animal. Paint it, cut and take the tape off. Add to the box, so that your stuffed animal can get in by itself.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add some furniture.\", \"描述\": \"If you have old dollhouse furniture, add that to the house. Cut paper to size fold over a small part of it and glue it to the wall like the table.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Put your animal inside.\", \"描述\": \"Throw a housewarming party to make your little friend feel loved.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Laundry Basket Room\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find an empty laundry basket.\", \"描述\": \"If you can't find one, ask your parent or guardian\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put a blanket for the carpet on the floor of the basket.\", \"描述\": \"It doesn't have to be brand new.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a bed out a small cloth folded up.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"If you have some Styrofoam, cut out a square.\", \"描述\": \"Put that square next to the furby's or stuffed animal's bed to serve as a side table. Put a book, lamp and things onto it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Feed the stuffed animal.\", \"描述\": \"Then put it down for a nap.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drawer Room\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Open up your chosen drawer.\", \"描述\": \"Check if you have enough space for your toy. The best type of drawer would be the one in your bedside table or any drawer in your bedroom.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place a soft fabric inside your drawer.\", \"描述\": \"If you're allowed to, stick the fabric to the floor of your drawer with hot glue. Velvet or silk would work best as the lining fabric.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a bed.\", \"描述\": \"Make a bed by making a small pillow, the size of your toy's head, and placing some leftover fabric on top of a small bed. Then place the pillow on top. If you want to make a blanket too, make it the size of your toy's body.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add some furniture.\", \"描述\": \"If you have little doll house furniture, you might want to use it. If you have a torch, add it in one corner and turn it on while your toy's inside. Do this just before bedtime, and turn it off when your toy goes to sleep.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Before putting your toy to sleep or to play inside its little house, groom it.\", \"描述\": \"Wipe only its fur with a barely dampened cloth, then brush your toy's fur and hair. Now let your toy enjoy its new house!\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,513 |
How to Build a Rotating Canned Food Shelf
|
1. Steps
1-1. Decide the size and number of shelves you need.
This article will cover a 5-shelf system that is 32 inches (81.3 cm) wide, 24 inches (61.0 cm) deep and 64 inches (162.6 cm) tall.
1-2. Cut the plywood
Cut one full sheet in half length-wise. From each half, cut a shelf at 32 inches (81.3 cm) (should leave 64 inches for the sides).
Cut the other full sheet in half length-wise also. Cut each half in thirds at 32 inches (81.3 cm) each.
Cut the half-sheet of plywood at 32 inches (81.3 cm). Cut the 32x48 piece in half (24x32). Set the remaining 16x48 piece aside for later. You should have 2-24x64 and 10-24x32.
1-3. Using a router and straight edge, rout slots into the sides ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) wide and ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) deep.
(An alternative is to attach rails that the shelves will rest on. The slot method is stronger and will not interfere with the rolling cans.)
The shelves need to have a 1:12 slope (1 inch drop for each 12 inches run).
For standard cans, the distance from the top of the input shelf to the top of the corresponding output shelf is 8 inches (20.3 cm).
For standard cans, the distance from the top of the input shelf, to the top of the next output shelf is 4 inches (10.2 cm).
For standard cans, the input shelf is 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) shorter than the output shelf.
For larger cans, add 1 inch (2.5 cm) to these dimensions.
Draw outlines for all slots.
1-4. Trim the shelves.
The finished outside width of the shelf system will be 32 inches (81.3 cm). The shelves will fit in a slot ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) deep. Therefore, the width of the shelves is actually 31 inches (78.7 cm). Each input shelf also needs to be trimmed on the back to allow a space for the can to drop. For standard cans, this gap needs to be 3.5 inches (8.9 cm).
1-5. Lay one side flat on the ground with the slots facing up.
Insert the shelves into the slots and place the other side on top.
1-6. Drive 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws through the side and into the edge of the shelf.
Put two screws in each shelf.
1-7. Turn the unit over and drive screws in this side also.
1-8. Turn the unit over so the back is facing up.
Attach the pieces that were cut from the input shelves to prevent the cans from falling off the back.
1-9. From the 16x48 scrap plywood, cut 5 pieces 2x32 inch.
Turn the unit over so the front is facing up. Attach the 2x32 inch pieces to block the cans from falling out the front.
1-10. With the remaining plywood and/or additional scrap you have laying around, build a base that the casters will attach to.
Stand the unit upright and attach it to the base.
1-11. Decide the configuration of cans that you need.
Each row will need to be about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wider than the can. On the table saw, rip ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm)-wide strips from plywood, MDF, or dimensional lumber. MDF and lumber work best. Attach them to the shelves with wood glue.
1-12. One problem you may have is the cans getting misaligned when they drop down.
A solution for this is to add a divider connecting the row dividing strips, filling the gap. Cut cardboard in a trapezoidal shape to fit over the two row dividers. Cut out the center material of the cardboard and glue the flaps to the row dividers.
1-13. Another problem occurs when the gap is too large for the cans.
The can can get blocked, preventing other cans from dropping down.
A solution for this problem is to glue wedges at the back of the lower shelf. This will cause the can to roll forward before the next one locks it in. The wedges can be cut from the same material used for the row dividers. They should be large enough to move the can forward.
1-14. Start using the rotating canned food shelf.
Add labels to the front of each row to identify the contents and load cans in the top portion of each shelf.
Tips
Pre-drill your holes for the 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws by drilling a pilot hole completely through the dado (routed) slot. This was you will know exactly where to place the screws.
A simpler design is possible when you have easy access to the back. This allows you to load the cans in the back and they simply roll forward.
The casters are very important. Experience has shown the mobility they add is a valuable convenience.
Warnings
Always wear safety glasses when operating or using any type of power tool.
Power tools can be dangerous; stay attentive and use with care.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:00",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Decide the size and number of shelves you need.\\nThis article will cover a 5-shelf system that is 32 inches (81.3 cm) wide, 24 inches (61.0 cm) deep and 64 inches (162.6 cm) tall.\\n1-2. Cut the plywood\\nCut one full sheet in half length-wise. From each half, cut a shelf at 32 inches (81.3 cm) (should leave 64 inches for the sides).\\nCut the other full sheet in half length-wise also. Cut each half in thirds at 32 inches (81.3 cm) each.\\nCut the half-sheet of plywood at 32 inches (81.3 cm). Cut the 32x48 piece in half (24x32). Set the remaining 16x48 piece aside for later. You should have 2-24x64 and 10-24x32.\\n1-3. Using a router and straight edge, rout slots into the sides ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) wide and ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) deep.\\n(An alternative is to attach rails that the shelves will rest on. The slot method is stronger and will not interfere with the rolling cans.)\\nThe shelves need to have a 1:12 slope (1 inch drop for each 12 inches run).\\nFor standard cans, the distance from the top of the input shelf to the top of the corresponding output shelf is 8 inches (20.3 cm).\\nFor standard cans, the distance from the top of the input shelf, to the top of the next output shelf is 4 inches (10.2 cm).\\nFor standard cans, the input shelf is 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) shorter than the output shelf.\\nFor larger cans, add 1 inch (2.5 cm) to these dimensions.\\nDraw outlines for all slots.\\n1-4. Trim the shelves.\\nThe finished outside width of the shelf system will be 32 inches (81.3 cm). The shelves will fit in a slot ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) deep. Therefore, the width of the shelves is actually 31 inches (78.7 cm). Each input shelf also needs to be trimmed on the back to allow a space for the can to drop. For standard cans, this gap needs to be 3.5 inches (8.9 cm).\\n1-5. Lay one side flat on the ground with the slots facing up.\\nInsert the shelves into the slots and place the other side on top.\\n1-6. Drive 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws through the side and into the edge of the shelf.\\nPut two screws in each shelf.\\n1-7. Turn the unit over and drive screws in this side also.\\n\\n1-8. Turn the unit over so the back is facing up.\\nAttach the pieces that were cut from the input shelves to prevent the cans from falling off the back.\\n1-9. From the 16x48 scrap plywood, cut 5 pieces 2x32 inch.\\nTurn the unit over so the front is facing up. Attach the 2x32 inch pieces to block the cans from falling out the front.\\n1-10. With the remaining plywood and/or additional scrap you have laying around, build a base that the casters will attach to.\\nStand the unit upright and attach it to the base.\\n1-11. Decide the configuration of cans that you need.\\nEach row will need to be about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wider than the can. On the table saw, rip ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm)-wide strips from plywood, MDF, or dimensional lumber. MDF and lumber work best. Attach them to the shelves with wood glue.\\n1-12. One problem you may have is the cans getting misaligned when they drop down.\\nA solution for this is to add a divider connecting the row dividing strips, filling the gap. Cut cardboard in a trapezoidal shape to fit over the two row dividers. Cut out the center material of the cardboard and glue the flaps to the row dividers.\\n1-13. Another problem occurs when the gap is too large for the cans.\\nThe can can get blocked, preventing other cans from dropping down.\\nA solution for this problem is to glue wedges at the back of the lower shelf. This will cause the can to roll forward before the next one locks it in. The wedges can be cut from the same material used for the row dividers. They should be large enough to move the can forward.\\n1-14. Start using the rotating canned food shelf.\\nAdd labels to the front of each row to identify the contents and load cans in the top portion of each shelf.\\nTips\\nPre-drill your holes for the 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws by drilling a pilot hole completely through the dado (routed) slot. This was you will know exactly where to place the screws.\\nA simpler design is possible when you have easy access to the back. This allows you to load the cans in the back and they simply roll forward.\\nThe casters are very important. Experience has shown the mobility they add is a valuable convenience.\\nWarnings\\nAlways wear safety glasses when operating or using any type of power tool.\\nPower tools can be dangerous; stay attentive and use with care.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Storing canned food in your kitchen cabinets is an inefficient use of space and you will often find old cans in the back. This easy-to-build shelf system will solve the problem by rotating the cans. The cost is a small fraction of the price of retail canned food systems. There are many variations, so modify the plans to suit your needs and abilities.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide the size and number of shelves you need.\", \"描述\": \"This article will cover a 5-shelf system that is 32 inches (81.3 cm) wide, 24 inches (61.0 cm) deep and 64 inches (162.6 cm) tall.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the plywood\", \"描述\": \"Cut one full sheet in half length-wise. From each half, cut a shelf at 32 inches (81.3 cm) (should leave 64 inches for the sides).\\nCut the other full sheet in half length-wise also. Cut each half in thirds at 32 inches (81.3 cm) each.\\nCut the half-sheet of plywood at 32 inches (81.3 cm). Cut the 32x48 piece in half (24x32). Set the remaining 16x48 piece aside for later. You should have 2-24x64 and 10-24x32.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using a router and straight edge, rout slots into the sides ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) wide and ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) deep.\", \"描述\": \"(An alternative is to attach rails that the shelves will rest on. The slot method is stronger and will not interfere with the rolling cans.)\\nThe shelves need to have a 1:12 slope (1 inch drop for each 12 inches run).\\nFor standard cans, the distance from the top of the input shelf to the top of the corresponding output shelf is 8 inches (20.3 cm).\\nFor standard cans, the distance from the top of the input shelf, to the top of the next output shelf is 4 inches (10.2 cm).\\nFor standard cans, the input shelf is 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) shorter than the output shelf.\\nFor larger cans, add 1 inch (2.5 cm) to these dimensions.\\nDraw outlines for all slots.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Trim the shelves.\", \"描述\": \"The finished outside width of the shelf system will be 32 inches (81.3 cm). The shelves will fit in a slot ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) deep. Therefore, the width of the shelves is actually 31 inches (78.7 cm). Each input shelf also needs to be trimmed on the back to allow a space for the can to drop. For standard cans, this gap needs to be 3.5 inches (8.9 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lay one side flat on the ground with the slots facing up.\", \"描述\": \"Insert the shelves into the slots and place the other side on top.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drive 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws through the side and into the edge of the shelf.\", \"描述\": \"Put two screws in each shelf.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Turn the unit over and drive screws in this side also.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Turn the unit over so the back is facing up.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the pieces that were cut from the input shelves to prevent the cans from falling off the back.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"From the 16x48 scrap plywood, cut 5 pieces 2x32 inch.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the unit over so the front is facing up. Attach the 2x32 inch pieces to block the cans from falling out the front.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"With the remaining plywood and/or additional scrap you have laying around, build a base that the casters will attach to.\", \"描述\": \"Stand the unit upright and attach it to the base.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Decide the configuration of cans that you need.\", \"描述\": \"Each row will need to be about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wider than the can. On the table saw, rip ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm)-wide strips from plywood, MDF, or dimensional lumber. MDF and lumber work best. Attach them to the shelves with wood glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"One problem you may have is the cans getting misaligned when they drop down.\", \"描述\": \"A solution for this is to add a divider connecting the row dividing strips, filling the gap. Cut cardboard in a trapezoidal shape to fit over the two row dividers. Cut out the center material of the cardboard and glue the flaps to the row dividers.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Another problem occurs when the gap is too large for the cans.\", \"描述\": \"The can can get blocked, preventing other cans from dropping down.\\nA solution for this problem is to glue wedges at the back of the lower shelf. This will cause the can to roll forward before the next one locks it in. The wedges can be cut from the same material used for the row dividers. They should be large enough to move the can forward.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Start using the rotating canned food shelf.\", \"描述\": \"Add labels to the front of each row to identify the contents and load cans in the top portion of each shelf.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Pre-drill your holes for the 2 inch (5.1 cm) screws by drilling a pilot hole completely through the dado (routed) slot. This was you will know exactly where to place the screws.\\n\", \"A simpler design is possible when you have easy access to the back. This allows you to load the cans in the back and they simply roll forward.\\n\", \"The casters are very important. Experience has shown the mobility they add is a valuable convenience.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always wear safety glasses when operating or using any type of power tool.\\n\", \"Power tools can be dangerous; stay attentive and use with care.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,514 |
How to Build a Roubo Workbench
|
1. Steps
1-1. Choose a style of Roubo workbench.
The original design was built with heavy straight legs; some designs had rear legs set at 10 to 12 degrees toward the center. These benches had large heavy single slabs. Modern Roubo workbenches are built with laminated slabs of wood for tops with leg vices. The original design also had a bench hook on one end of the front side and dog holes for hold downs. Planing stop, through dovetail and tenons, were standard. Todays Roubo's workbenches come in many different styles and types, allowing you to choose a style appropriate to your needs and workspace.
1-2. Choose a material from which to build the workbench.
The woods most commonly used by the large companies are maple and beech. Other woods used include oak, cherry, walnut, poplar, southern yellow pine and Douglas fir. It doesn't have to be an expensive hard wood; choose a wood which fits your budget or which is available locally.
1-3. Let your lumber sit in your workshop for a few weeks.
This gives it time to adjust to its new environment movement wise. Cut your lumber to rough size, stack and stick it; this lets it move before you start milling it.
1-4. Make a list of the pieces needed before cutting.
Use the drawings of your bench to find the sizes and number of pieces you need before cutting. This will maximize lumber usage.
1-5. Laminate the stock.
It is as simple as surfacing all the stock to be laminated and squaring the glue side of all your stock. Apply an even smooth layer of glue to the stock to be laminated and use a good even clamping pressure and lots of clamps. Don't glue more than two or three pieces at a time, unless you're very fast and accurate at aligning and clamping. Trying to glue and align these heavy pieces of stock all at one time is difficult and can result in misalignment if you overdo what you can handle alone.
1-6. Decide on the height of the bench and the thickness of the top.
Cut your lumber for the legs about a 1/4-inch wider and longer than needed so you have room to smooth and finish the legs to size. If you're using lumberyard 2xs laminating three or more pieces together makes a nice heavy leg.
1-7. Lay out the angle for the back legs.
Use a good bevel gauge to layout the angle, typically 12 degrees, for the back legs. Cut any mortises and drill all the holes in the legs. Cut and smooth to size.
If you want a knock down workbench, one that is easy to take apart and move, you can use threaded rod or long lag screws to put it together. If you want to make it a knock down bench then don't glue the long stretchers into the mortises, just use lag screws about 8 inches (20.3 cm) long. Assemble the legs and short stretchers with glue and pins.
1-8. Make your short stretchers.
These will require one end of them being cut to match the 12 degree angle of the rear legs - if you're angling the rear legs, that is. The short stretchers can be one piece boards or two or three laminated together to form a heavy leg assembly. Take your time here and get a good fit. Dry fit the legs and short stretchers together to ensure they fit properly. You can then disassemble them and do your final glue up for assembly. Dry fitting before final assembly will help prevent mistakes and gives you a chance to see the base before glue up. This allows you to make any changes as needed. However you design your bench be sure that all the parts compliment each other. As don't have a 4 inch (10.2 cm) tick top on 3 inch (7.6 cm) legs. If your top is 3 or 4 inches (7.6 or 10.2 cm) thick then the legs should be about 4 to 5 inches (10.2 to 12.7 cm) square with stretchers about 3 inches (7.6 cm) thick and as wide or wider than the legs are square. But this is just one opinion.
1-9. Attach the long stretchers between the leg assemblies by dry fitting them as above.
When making your base assembly, build it so the top overhangs on the ends for attaching vises or other hardware you want. Make the front edge of the workbench even with the front face of the front leg. With the 12 degree angle of the rear legs you should have about a 6–8 inch (15.2–20.3 cm) overhang to the rear of the bench top. The base size must be set so these overhangs can give way to the vises and whatever you want to add.
Leave to set.
1-10. Cut and laminate the sections for the top.
These sections are four pieces laminated together to make up one section. These are long pieces and help with alignment would be highly beneficial as laminating the top pieces four at a time can be difficult. Use as many clamps as you need here and get an even clamping pressure. Ensure that you have an even layer of glue on each piece to prevent gaps and delaminations later. Leave each section overnight to let the glue cure. Repeat this step until you have enough laminated sections to equal your workbench top width. If your workbench is 24 inches (61.0 cm) then you need 4 sections.
1-11. Assemble the sections, adding one section to the other each day.
Allow each of these laminations to cure overnight. Wiping off dripping glue will be a plus when it comes time to flatten and smooth the top on both sides.
1-12. Surface the bottom side of the top first.
Starting your flatting and smoothing on the bottom side of the top is a good way to learn to use your hand plane and being the bottom side of the top will hide your learning curve. Use a #5 to scrub the top and a #6 or #7 to flatten and smooth. If you don't have the #6 or #7 plane, you can get the surface flat and smooth by just using your #5 and adjusting it to the type of planing you're doing, scrubbing, flattening and smoothing. Take your time and get the bottom side of the top flat and smooth. This won't happen in just a few hours - you will know how to use your plane correctly by the time that you are finished! Once flat and smooth, you can attach to the base.
1-13. Choose the method for attaching the top carefully.
Attaching the top is done with a mortise and tenon joint. You can use a short tenon or a through tenon and dovetail which is the way this workbench was originally designed. However, you are free to use any method you want; be sure to research this method well before starting it. If it's a knockdown type bench, keep in mind how you will remove the top if ever needed to.
1-14. Set the workbench upright and flatten and smooth the top side as you did the bottom.
Using a plane and wending sticks will help get the top very flat.
1-15. Sand the entire bench, base and top, smooth.
Using a chamfer bit on the edges or a round over bit helps prevent chipping and splitting of the edges and on the legs. Don't chamfer or round over edges where you're going to attach vices.
1-16. Check the workbench for any problems and missed spots when you are sanding.
1-17. Apply a finish.
The finish on the workbench is a matter of personal taste. Boiled linseed oil is commonly used. You could even mix other finishes in with it or over it. Keep in mind that whatever you do to the bench top, you must also do to the bottom side of the bench top. This will help prevent the top from warping or moving unevenly.
Tips
Look for sawmills selling lumber, it's cheaper there but rough cut.
Buy a book on building workbenches.
Have your tools and items as glue and clamps ready and at hand.
Warnings
Don't over spend on lumber and hardware
As you build, don't cut more wood than you can use in that day. Cutting too much wood to size and not using it for a day or two may result in lumber that has moved, cupped, warped or twisted.
Follow correct safety procedures when using a table saw, routers and any power tool.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:00",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Choose a style of Roubo workbench.\\nThe original design was built with heavy straight legs; some designs had rear legs set at 10 to 12 degrees toward the center. These benches had large heavy single slabs. Modern Roubo workbenches are built with laminated slabs of wood for tops with leg vices. The original design also had a bench hook on one end of the front side and dog holes for hold downs. Planing stop, through dovetail and tenons, were standard. Todays Roubo's workbenches come in many different styles and types, allowing you to choose a style appropriate to your needs and workspace.\\n1-2. Choose a material from which to build the workbench.\\nThe woods most commonly used by the large companies are maple and beech. Other woods used include oak, cherry, walnut, poplar, southern yellow pine and Douglas fir. It doesn't have to be an expensive hard wood; choose a wood which fits your budget or which is available locally.\\n1-3. Let your lumber sit in your workshop for a few weeks.\\nThis gives it time to adjust to its new environment movement wise. Cut your lumber to rough size, stack and stick it; this lets it move before you start milling it.\\n1-4. Make a list of the pieces needed before cutting.\\nUse the drawings of your bench to find the sizes and number of pieces you need before cutting. This will maximize lumber usage.\\n1-5. Laminate the stock.\\nIt is as simple as surfacing all the stock to be laminated and squaring the glue side of all your stock. Apply an even smooth layer of glue to the stock to be laminated and use a good even clamping pressure and lots of clamps. Don't glue more than two or three pieces at a time, unless you're very fast and accurate at aligning and clamping. Trying to glue and align these heavy pieces of stock all at one time is difficult and can result in misalignment if you overdo what you can handle alone.\\n1-6. Decide on the height of the bench and the thickness of the top.\\nCut your lumber for the legs about a 1/4-inch wider and longer than needed so you have room to smooth and finish the legs to size. If you're using lumberyard 2xs laminating three or more pieces together makes a nice heavy leg.\\n1-7. Lay out the angle for the back legs.\\nUse a good bevel gauge to layout the angle, typically 12 degrees, for the back legs. Cut any mortises and drill all the holes in the legs. Cut and smooth to size.\\nIf you want a knock down workbench, one that is easy to take apart and move, you can use threaded rod or long lag screws to put it together. If you want to make it a knock down bench then don't glue the long stretchers into the mortises, just use lag screws about 8 inches (20.3 cm) long. Assemble the legs and short stretchers with glue and pins.\\n1-8. Make your short stretchers.\\nThese will require one end of them being cut to match the 12 degree angle of the rear legs - if you're angling the rear legs, that is. The short stretchers can be one piece boards or two or three laminated together to form a heavy leg assembly. Take your time here and get a good fit. Dry fit the legs and short stretchers together to ensure they fit properly. You can then disassemble them and do your final glue up for assembly. Dry fitting before final assembly will help prevent mistakes and gives you a chance to see the base before glue up. This allows you to make any changes as needed. However you design your bench be sure that all the parts compliment each other. As don't have a 4 inch (10.2 cm) tick top on 3 inch (7.6 cm) legs. If your top is 3 or 4 inches (7.6 or 10.2 cm) thick then the legs should be about 4 to 5 inches (10.2 to 12.7 cm) square with stretchers about 3 inches (7.6 cm) thick and as wide or wider than the legs are square. But this is just one opinion.\\n1-9. Attach the long stretchers between the leg assemblies by dry fitting them as above.\\nWhen making your base assembly, build it so the top overhangs on the ends for attaching vises or other hardware you want. Make the front edge of the workbench even with the front face of the front leg. With the 12 degree angle of the rear legs you should have about a 6–8 inch (15.2–20.3 cm) overhang to the rear of the bench top. The base size must be set so these overhangs can give way to the vises and whatever you want to add.\\nLeave to set.\\n1-10. Cut and laminate the sections for the top.\\nThese sections are four pieces laminated together to make up one section. These are long pieces and help with alignment would be highly beneficial as laminating the top pieces four at a time can be difficult. Use as many clamps as you need here and get an even clamping pressure. Ensure that you have an even layer of glue on each piece to prevent gaps and delaminations later. Leave each section overnight to let the glue cure. Repeat this step until you have enough laminated sections to equal your workbench top width. If your workbench is 24 inches (61.0 cm) then you need 4 sections.\\n1-11. Assemble the sections, adding one section to the other each day.\\nAllow each of these laminations to cure overnight. Wiping off dripping glue will be a plus when it comes time to flatten and smooth the top on both sides.\\n1-12. Surface the bottom side of the top first.\\nStarting your flatting and smoothing on the bottom side of the top is a good way to learn to use your hand plane and being the bottom side of the top will hide your learning curve. Use a #5 to scrub the top and a #6 or #7 to flatten and smooth. If you don't have the #6 or #7 plane, you can get the surface flat and smooth by just using your #5 and adjusting it to the type of planing you're doing, scrubbing, flattening and smoothing. Take your time and get the bottom side of the top flat and smooth. This won't happen in just a few hours - you will know how to use your plane correctly by the time that you are finished! Once flat and smooth, you can attach to the base.\\n1-13. Choose the method for attaching the top carefully.\\nAttaching the top is done with a mortise and tenon joint. You can use a short tenon or a through tenon and dovetail which is the way this workbench was originally designed. However, you are free to use any method you want; be sure to research this method well before starting it. If it's a knockdown type bench, keep in mind how you will remove the top if ever needed to.\\n1-14. Set the workbench upright and flatten and smooth the top side as you did the bottom.\\nUsing a plane and wending sticks will help get the top very flat.\\n1-15. Sand the entire bench, base and top, smooth.\\nUsing a chamfer bit on the edges or a round over bit helps prevent chipping and splitting of the edges and on the legs. Don't chamfer or round over edges where you're going to attach vices.\\n1-16. Check the workbench for any problems and missed spots when you are sanding.\\n\\n1-17. Apply a finish.\\nThe finish on the workbench is a matter of personal taste. Boiled linseed oil is commonly used. You could even mix other finishes in with it or over it. Keep in mind that whatever you do to the bench top, you must also do to the bottom side of the bench top. This will help prevent the top from warping or moving unevenly.\\nTips\\nLook for sawmills selling lumber, it's cheaper there but rough cut.\\nBuy a book on building workbenches.\\nHave your tools and items as glue and clamps ready and at hand.\\nWarnings\\nDon't over spend on lumber and hardware\\nAs you build, don't cut more wood than you can use in that day. Cutting too much wood to size and not using it for a day or two may result in lumber that has moved, cupped, warped or twisted.\\nFollow correct safety procedures when using a table saw, routers and any power tool.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you want to build a workbench, look no further than the Roubo workbench. It is a French workbench designed by A. Roubo in the 18th century. The distinctive, timeless style of this design will make the workbench a centrepiece to your workshop.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a style of Roubo workbench.\", \"描述\": \"The original design was built with heavy straight legs; some designs had rear legs set at 10 to 12 degrees toward the center. These benches had large heavy single slabs. Modern Roubo workbenches are built with laminated slabs of wood for tops with leg vices. The original design also had a bench hook on one end of the front side and dog holes for hold downs. Planing stop, through dovetail and tenons, were standard. Todays Roubo's workbenches come in many different styles and types, allowing you to choose a style appropriate to your needs and workspace.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a material from which to build the workbench.\", \"描述\": \"The woods most commonly used by the large companies are maple and beech. Other woods used include oak, cherry, walnut, poplar, southern yellow pine and Douglas fir. It doesn't have to be an expensive hard wood; choose a wood which fits your budget or which is available locally.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Let your lumber sit in your workshop for a few weeks.\", \"描述\": \"This gives it time to adjust to its new environment movement wise. Cut your lumber to rough size, stack and stick it; this lets it move before you start milling it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make a list of the pieces needed before cutting.\", \"描述\": \"Use the drawings of your bench to find the sizes and number of pieces you need before cutting. This will maximize lumber usage.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Laminate the stock.\", \"描述\": \"It is as simple as surfacing all the stock to be laminated and squaring the glue side of all your stock. Apply an even smooth layer of glue to the stock to be laminated and use a good even clamping pressure and lots of clamps. Don't glue more than two or three pieces at a time, unless you're very fast and accurate at aligning and clamping. Trying to glue and align these heavy pieces of stock all at one time is difficult and can result in misalignment if you overdo what you can handle alone.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decide on the height of the bench and the thickness of the top.\", \"描述\": \"Cut your lumber for the legs about a 1/4-inch wider and longer than needed so you have room to smooth and finish the legs to size. If you're using lumberyard 2xs laminating three or more pieces together makes a nice heavy leg.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Lay out the angle for the back legs.\", \"描述\": \"Use a good bevel gauge to layout the angle, typically 12 degrees, for the back legs. Cut any mortises and drill all the holes in the legs. Cut and smooth to size.\\nIf you want a knock down workbench, one that is easy to take apart and move, you can use threaded rod or long lag screws to put it together. If you want to make it a knock down bench then don't glue the long stretchers into the mortises, just use lag screws about 8 inches (20.3 cm) long. Assemble the legs and short stretchers with glue and pins.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Make your short stretchers.\", \"描述\": \"These will require one end of them being cut to match the 12 degree angle of the rear legs - if you're angling the rear legs, that is. The short stretchers can be one piece boards or two or three laminated together to form a heavy leg assembly. Take your time here and get a good fit. Dry fit the legs and short stretchers together to ensure they fit properly. You can then disassemble them and do your final glue up for assembly. Dry fitting before final assembly will help prevent mistakes and gives you a chance to see the base before glue up. This allows you to make any changes as needed. However you design your bench be sure that all the parts compliment each other. As don't have a 4 inch (10.2 cm) tick top on 3 inch (7.6 cm) legs. If your top is 3 or 4 inches (7.6 or 10.2 cm) thick then the legs should be about 4 to 5 inches (10.2 to 12.7 cm) square with stretchers about 3 inches (7.6 cm) thick and as wide or wider than the legs are square. But this is just one opinion.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Attach the long stretchers between the leg assemblies by dry fitting them as above.\", \"描述\": \"When making your base assembly, build it so the top overhangs on the ends for attaching vises or other hardware you want. Make the front edge of the workbench even with the front face of the front leg. With the 12 degree angle of the rear legs you should have about a 6–8 inch (15.2–20.3 cm) overhang to the rear of the bench top. The base size must be set so these overhangs can give way to the vises and whatever you want to add.\\nLeave to set.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Cut and laminate the sections for the top.\", \"描述\": \"These sections are four pieces laminated together to make up one section. These are long pieces and help with alignment would be highly beneficial as laminating the top pieces four at a time can be difficult. Use as many clamps as you need here and get an even clamping pressure. Ensure that you have an even layer of glue on each piece to prevent gaps and delaminations later. Leave each section overnight to let the glue cure. Repeat this step until you have enough laminated sections to equal your workbench top width. If your workbench is 24 inches (61.0 cm) then you need 4 sections.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Assemble the sections, adding one section to the other each day.\", \"描述\": \"Allow each of these laminations to cure overnight. Wiping off dripping glue will be a plus when it comes time to flatten and smooth the top on both sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Surface the bottom side of the top first.\", \"描述\": \"Starting your flatting and smoothing on the bottom side of the top is a good way to learn to use your hand plane and being the bottom side of the top will hide your learning curve. Use a #5 to scrub the top and a #6 or #7 to flatten and smooth. If you don't have the #6 or #7 plane, you can get the surface flat and smooth by just using your #5 and adjusting it to the type of planing you're doing, scrubbing, flattening and smoothing. Take your time and get the bottom side of the top flat and smooth. This won't happen in just a few hours - you will know how to use your plane correctly by the time that you are finished! Once flat and smooth, you can attach to the base.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Choose the method for attaching the top carefully.\", \"描述\": \"Attaching the top is done with a mortise and tenon joint. You can use a short tenon or a through tenon and dovetail which is the way this workbench was originally designed. However, you are free to use any method you want; be sure to research this method well before starting it. If it's a knockdown type bench, keep in mind how you will remove the top if ever needed to.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Set the workbench upright and flatten and smooth the top side as you did the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Using a plane and wending sticks will help get the top very flat.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Sand the entire bench, base and top, smooth.\", \"描述\": \"Using a chamfer bit on the edges or a round over bit helps prevent chipping and splitting of the edges and on the legs. Don't chamfer or round over edges where you're going to attach vices.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Check the workbench for any problems and missed spots when you are sanding.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Apply a finish.\", \"描述\": \"The finish on the workbench is a matter of personal taste. Boiled linseed oil is commonly used. You could even mix other finishes in with it or over it. Keep in mind that whatever you do to the bench top, you must also do to the bottom side of the bench top. This will help prevent the top from warping or moving unevenly.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Look for sawmills selling lumber, it's cheaper there but rough cut.\\n\", \"Buy a book on building workbenches.\\n\", \"Have your tools and items as glue and clamps ready and at hand.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't over spend on lumber and hardware\\n\", \"As you build, don't cut more wood than you can use in that day. Cutting too much wood to size and not using it for a day or two may result in lumber that has moved, cupped, warped or twisted.\\n\", \"Follow correct safety procedures when using a table saw, routers and any power tool.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,515 |
How to Build a Round Pen
|
1. Preparing the Pen Area
1-1. Decide how big the pen will be.
A 50-foot (15.24 m) enclosure works well for lunging a horse, but if you plan to ride and train your horse in the pen, you may want to build a round pen with a 60-foot (18.28 m) to 80-foot (24.38 m) diameter.
The most common round pen size is 60 feet in diameter. But you can create a pen that is anywhere from 40 to 120 feet in diameter, depending on how much room you would like for you and your horse.
1-2. Find a level, high piece of ground.
Look for an area that is not prone to flooding. The footing in the round pen should be firm, with good drainage that does not trap water.
If the ground is not level, you can rent a small bulldozer to remove any rocks and level the ground.
You can also try to remove any rocks or debris by hand. It’s important that the area is level and smooth so your horse does not get injured when he walks around the pen.
1-3. Measure the area.
Start at the center of the pen and use measuring tape to create a perfect circle. Be sure to account for the gate in your measurement.
The walls or rail fences of the pen should be at least 4 feet high and have one relatively small gate. The gate should be designed to allow one horse to enter and exit comfortably.
1-4. Add soft footing to the area.
You can go for a more affordable option of tilling the dirt, or use other materials like sand, wood shavings, shredded rubber, or a combination of materials.
To use dirt: Till the soil with a garden tiller, loosening the soil at least 4 inches deep. You may have to till the footing often, as dirt compacts with use and can create a hard top layer that can injure your horse’s legs. Keep in mind that in rainy climates, the dirt will turn to mud and you won’t be able to use the pen if it's muddy.
To use sand: Start by adding a layer of gravel. Use a shovel or rake to distribute the gravel. Then, spread a layer of sand on top of the gravel, using the rake. Sand provides good drainage and soft footing. For wetter climates, it's a good option.
To use wood shavings or mulch: Start by adding a layer of gravel. Then, spread a layer of wood shavings or mulch on the gravel. These materials make good footing because they create a cushion over the ground. But if they go too wet, they can become slick. They also tend to break down easily and turn into dirt over time.
To use shredded rubber: Start by adding a layer of gravel. Then, spread a layer of shredded rubber over the gravel. Shredded rubber helps to drain water and provides good footing. But high winds can blow the rubber pieces away in the pen.
To use a combination of materials: Start with a coarse layer, like gravel, to help with drainage. Then, add a finer layer of wood shavings or shredded rubber to prevent the top layer from washing away. Add a cushioning layer made of sand to the top to create good footing for your horse.
1-5. Decide what material you are going to use to construct the pen.
When constructing a pen, you have two options for the pen material:
Wooden posts and rails: This is likely your cheapest option, depending on lumber costs at your local hardware store or lumberyard. Wooden rails are flexible, in the event your horse falls against them. But they will break under extreme pressure and may cause injury to your horse if they break. The wider the wood rails are, the safer the pen will be.
Manufactured steel pipe panels: This option is more costly, but the panels are portable, easy to assemble, and can be adjusted in size as necessary. They are also very durable and can withstand a lot of use. But these panels do not “give” if you or your horse falls into them. Most metal panel manufacturers have changed the corner design of the corral panel from rounded to square to prevent a horse from catching a hoof, neck or halter in the gap.
2. Using Wooden Posts
2-1. Determine how many posts you will need for the pen.
The number of posts you need for a given round pen diameter is pi (3.14) times the diameter divided by the distance you want between the posts. Multiplying by 3, instead of 3.14, will give you a rough amount, unless you are making a very large pen.
For example, if your pen is 40 feet by 3 feet or has a circumference of 120 feet, and you want 9 feet between each post, divide 120 by 9 to get 13.3. So, you would need 13 posts (with maybe one extra post just in case) for the pen.
2-2. Gather your materials.
Now that you have an idea of how many posts you will need for your pen, go to your local hardware store and pick up:
7” diameter treated wooden posts (you may need to go to a lumberyard)
Pressure treated wooden boards (approximately 150 3/4-inch by 6-inch by 16-foot)
Concrete mix (one bag for each post)
A 660’ spool of electric braid
A gasoline-driven post-hole digger (you can also rent this or dig the holes manually)
Nails
A hammer
2-3. Dig the holes for the gate posts first.
Use the post-hole digger to make holes for the gate, based on how wide you want your gate to be. Starting with the gate posts will allow you then work around them as a marker.
The holes should be about 2-3 feet deep.
Place the gate posts in the holes, perpendicular to the ground. Then, fill the holes with cement.
2-4. Dig holes for the other posts.
If you have rocky soil, it may be best to have longer intervals between the posts so you have fewer holes to dig.
Place the posts in the holes and fill the holes with cement.
2-5. Soak the pressure-treated boards in water until they are soft and pliable.
Make a solid wall by attaching them to the insides of the posts. Stagger the boards on the posts to distribute the pressure evenly. Cut the remaining boards to the height of your fence and nail them vertically to the inside to cover the joins at the posts.
Alternatively, you can create a more open pen by using electric braid instead of wooden boards. Attach 4-5 strands of electric braid between the posts. Depending on how high the posts are, you may use more or fewer strands of braid.
Be sure to put enough tension on the braid to prevent sagging between the posts.
You may also want to also add a top railing made of wood to the pen to give it a more sturdy appearance.
2-6. Install the gate.
You will want a gate big enough for a horse to in and out of the pen, but not large enough for a tractor or multiple horses to pass through.
Make a gate out of wood or wood and braid.
Using the gate posts you built earlier, hang the gate.
Attach a latch made out of wood or braid to the gate.
You can also purchase ready-made metal or wood gates.
2-7. Maintain the wooden pen.
If you used pressurized lumber or treated wood posts, they should hold up pretty well. You can also prime, stain, or paint the wood posts and rails to maintain them.
3. Using Steel Pipe Panels
3-1. Determine how many panels you will need.
To do this, multiply the diameter of the area by 3.14 to determine the pen’s circumference. Then, divide the circumference by the length of the panels you are going to use.
For example: if you plan to use 10-foot panels to construct a 60-foot pen, multiple 60 by 3.14 to get a circumference of 188.4. Then, divide 188.4 by 10 (panel length) to get 18.84. So, you will need 19 panels for a slightly larger than 60-foot pen.
If you are going to be adding a separate gate piece, make sure you factor in its length when calculating the overall diameter of the pen.
3-2. Purchase panels online or at a pet supply store.
Look for panels made of high-quality galvanized steel, with a clear coat finish that protects the steel from rusting.
3-3. Set up the panels in the pen area.
Lay them on their sides so that the inside and outside tabs line up with each other.
Some panels have a quick pin latch system with built-in pins. This prevents the pins from getting lost when you move the panels.
3-4. Stand two panels up, side by side.
Make sure the tabs are overlapping.
3-5. Insert the panel pin between the tabs to connect them together.
Continue with the other panels until they have all been mounted.
Many panels will be built with mud legs to prevent them from sinking into the ground.
3-6. Maintain the steel pen.
If the panels are made of high-quality steel with a good coating, they should not fall apart easily. Be wary of rust. If the panels start to rust, paint them with a rust-resistant paint.
If the panels get dirty, simply wipe them off with a cloth.
Tips
Check the panels and posts of a wooden pen at least once a year to make sure it is stable and secure.
Don't cement the pots in, as this will cause the posts to rot out of their place.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:01",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing the Pen Area\\n1-1. Decide how big the pen will be.\\nA 50-foot (15.24 m) enclosure works well for lunging a horse, but if you plan to ride and train your horse in the pen, you may want to build a round pen with a 60-foot (18.28 m) to 80-foot (24.38 m) diameter.\\nThe most common round pen size is 60 feet in diameter. But you can create a pen that is anywhere from 40 to 120 feet in diameter, depending on how much room you would like for you and your horse.\\n1-2. Find a level, high piece of ground.\\nLook for an area that is not prone to flooding. The footing in the round pen should be firm, with good drainage that does not trap water.\\nIf the ground is not level, you can rent a small bulldozer to remove any rocks and level the ground.\\nYou can also try to remove any rocks or debris by hand. It’s important that the area is level and smooth so your horse does not get injured when he walks around the pen.\\n1-3. Measure the area.\\nStart at the center of the pen and use measuring tape to create a perfect circle. Be sure to account for the gate in your measurement.\\nThe walls or rail fences of the pen should be at least 4 feet high and have one relatively small gate. The gate should be designed to allow one horse to enter and exit comfortably.\\n1-4. Add soft footing to the area.\\nYou can go for a more affordable option of tilling the dirt, or use other materials like sand, wood shavings, shredded rubber, or a combination of materials.\\nTo use dirt: Till the soil with a garden tiller, loosening the soil at least 4 inches deep. You may have to till the footing often, as dirt compacts with use and can create a hard top layer that can injure your horse’s legs. Keep in mind that in rainy climates, the dirt will turn to mud and you won’t be able to use the pen if it's muddy.\\nTo use sand: Start by adding a layer of gravel. Use a shovel or rake to distribute the gravel. Then, spread a layer of sand on top of the gravel, using the rake. Sand provides good drainage and soft footing. For wetter climates, it's a good option.\\nTo use wood shavings or mulch: Start by adding a layer of gravel. Then, spread a layer of wood shavings or mulch on the gravel. These materials make good footing because they create a cushion over the ground. But if they go too wet, they can become slick. They also tend to break down easily and turn into dirt over time.\\nTo use shredded rubber: Start by adding a layer of gravel. Then, spread a layer of shredded rubber over the gravel. Shredded rubber helps to drain water and provides good footing. But high winds can blow the rubber pieces away in the pen.\\nTo use a combination of materials: Start with a coarse layer, like gravel, to help with drainage. Then, add a finer layer of wood shavings or shredded rubber to prevent the top layer from washing away. Add a cushioning layer made of sand to the top to create good footing for your horse.\\n1-5. Decide what material you are going to use to construct the pen.\\nWhen constructing a pen, you have two options for the pen material:\\nWooden posts and rails: This is likely your cheapest option, depending on lumber costs at your local hardware store or lumberyard. Wooden rails are flexible, in the event your horse falls against them. But they will break under extreme pressure and may cause injury to your horse if they break. The wider the wood rails are, the safer the pen will be.\\nManufactured steel pipe panels: This option is more costly, but the panels are portable, easy to assemble, and can be adjusted in size as necessary. They are also very durable and can withstand a lot of use. But these panels do not “give” if you or your horse falls into them. Most metal panel manufacturers have changed the corner design of the corral panel from rounded to square to prevent a horse from catching a hoof, neck or halter in the gap.\\n2. Using Wooden Posts\\n2-1. Determine how many posts you will need for the pen.\\nThe number of posts you need for a given round pen diameter is pi (3.14) times the diameter divided by the distance you want between the posts. Multiplying by 3, instead of 3.14, will give you a rough amount, unless you are making a very large pen.\\nFor example, if your pen is 40 feet by 3 feet or has a circumference of 120 feet, and you want 9 feet between each post, divide 120 by 9 to get 13.3. So, you would need 13 posts (with maybe one extra post just in case) for the pen.\\n2-2. Gather your materials.\\nNow that you have an idea of how many posts you will need for your pen, go to your local hardware store and pick up:\\n7” diameter treated wooden posts (you may need to go to a lumberyard)\\nPressure treated wooden boards (approximately 150 3/4-inch by 6-inch by 16-foot)\\nConcrete mix (one bag for each post)\\nA 660’ spool of electric braid\\nA gasoline-driven post-hole digger (you can also rent this or dig the holes manually)\\nNails\\nA hammer\\n2-3. Dig the holes for the gate posts first.\\nUse the post-hole digger to make holes for the gate, based on how wide you want your gate to be. Starting with the gate posts will allow you then work around them as a marker.\\nThe holes should be about 2-3 feet deep.\\nPlace the gate posts in the holes, perpendicular to the ground. Then, fill the holes with cement.\\n2-4. Dig holes for the other posts.\\nIf you have rocky soil, it may be best to have longer intervals between the posts so you have fewer holes to dig.\\nPlace the posts in the holes and fill the holes with cement.\\n2-5. Soak the pressure-treated boards in water until they are soft and pliable.\\nMake a solid wall by attaching them to the insides of the posts. Stagger the boards on the posts to distribute the pressure evenly. Cut the remaining boards to the height of your fence and nail them vertically to the inside to cover the joins at the posts.\\nAlternatively, you can create a more open pen by using electric braid instead of wooden boards. Attach 4-5 strands of electric braid between the posts. Depending on how high the posts are, you may use more or fewer strands of braid.\\nBe sure to put enough tension on the braid to prevent sagging between the posts.\\nYou may also want to also add a top railing made of wood to the pen to give it a more sturdy appearance.\\n2-6. Install the gate.\\nYou will want a gate big enough for a horse to in and out of the pen, but not large enough for a tractor or multiple horses to pass through.\\nMake a gate out of wood or wood and braid.\\nUsing the gate posts you built earlier, hang the gate.\\nAttach a latch made out of wood or braid to the gate.\\nYou can also purchase ready-made metal or wood gates.\\n2-7. Maintain the wooden pen.\\nIf you used pressurized lumber or treated wood posts, they should hold up pretty well. You can also prime, stain, or paint the wood posts and rails to maintain them.\\n3. Using Steel Pipe Panels\\n3-1. Determine how many panels you will need.\\nTo do this, multiply the diameter of the area by 3.14 to determine the pen’s circumference. Then, divide the circumference by the length of the panels you are going to use.\\nFor example: if you plan to use 10-foot panels to construct a 60-foot pen, multiple 60 by 3.14 to get a circumference of 188.4. Then, divide 188.4 by 10 (panel length) to get 18.84. So, you will need 19 panels for a slightly larger than 60-foot pen.\\nIf you are going to be adding a separate gate piece, make sure you factor in its length when calculating the overall diameter of the pen.\\n3-2. Purchase panels online or at a pet supply store.\\nLook for panels made of high-quality galvanized steel, with a clear coat finish that protects the steel from rusting.\\n3-3. Set up the panels in the pen area.\\nLay them on their sides so that the inside and outside tabs line up with each other.\\nSome panels have a quick pin latch system with built-in pins. This prevents the pins from getting lost when you move the panels.\\n3-4. Stand two panels up, side by side.\\nMake sure the tabs are overlapping.\\n3-5. Insert the panel pin between the tabs to connect them together.\\nContinue with the other panels until they have all been mounted.\\nMany panels will be built with mud legs to prevent them from sinking into the ground.\\n3-6. Maintain the steel pen.\\nIf the panels are made of high-quality steel with a good coating, they should not fall apart easily. Be wary of rust. If the panels start to rust, paint them with a rust-resistant paint.\\nIf the panels get dirty, simply wipe them off with a cloth.\\nTips\\nCheck the panels and posts of a wooden pen at least once a year to make sure it is stable and secure.\\nDon't cement the pots in, as this will cause the posts to rot out of their place.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A round pen can provide a safe environment for your horses and prevent them from running away. They can also help you become a more effective horse trainer. Round penning is a great way to develop body language skills between you and your horse, as you can stand in the center of the circular pen and direct your horse to work around you. But there should not be more than one horse in the round pen at a time.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Pen Area\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide how big the pen will be.\", \"描述\": \"A 50-foot (15.24 m) enclosure works well for lunging a horse, but if you plan to ride and train your horse in the pen, you may want to build a round pen with a 60-foot (18.28 m) to 80-foot (24.38 m) diameter.\\nThe most common round pen size is 60 feet in diameter. But you can create a pen that is anywhere from 40 to 120 feet in diameter, depending on how much room you would like for you and your horse.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a level, high piece of ground.\", \"描述\": \"Look for an area that is not prone to flooding. The footing in the round pen should be firm, with good drainage that does not trap water.\\nIf the ground is not level, you can rent a small bulldozer to remove any rocks and level the ground.\\nYou can also try to remove any rocks or debris by hand. It’s important that the area is level and smooth so your horse does not get injured when he walks around the pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure the area.\", \"描述\": \"Start at the center of the pen and use measuring tape to create a perfect circle. Be sure to account for the gate in your measurement.\\nThe walls or rail fences of the pen should be at least 4 feet high and have one relatively small gate. The gate should be designed to allow one horse to enter and exit comfortably.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add soft footing to the area.\", \"描述\": \"You can go for a more affordable option of tilling the dirt, or use other materials like sand, wood shavings, shredded rubber, or a combination of materials.\\nTo use dirt: Till the soil with a garden tiller, loosening the soil at least 4 inches deep. You may have to till the footing often, as dirt compacts with use and can create a hard top layer that can injure your horse’s legs. Keep in mind that in rainy climates, the dirt will turn to mud and you won’t be able to use the pen if it's muddy.\\nTo use sand: Start by adding a layer of gravel. Use a shovel or rake to distribute the gravel. Then, spread a layer of sand on top of the gravel, using the rake. Sand provides good drainage and soft footing. For wetter climates, it's a good option.\\nTo use wood shavings or mulch: Start by adding a layer of gravel. Then, spread a layer of wood shavings or mulch on the gravel. These materials make good footing because they create a cushion over the ground. But if they go too wet, they can become slick. They also tend to break down easily and turn into dirt over time.\\nTo use shredded rubber: Start by adding a layer of gravel. Then, spread a layer of shredded rubber over the gravel. Shredded rubber helps to drain water and provides good footing. But high winds can blow the rubber pieces away in the pen.\\nTo use a combination of materials: Start with a coarse layer, like gravel, to help with drainage. Then, add a finer layer of wood shavings or shredded rubber to prevent the top layer from washing away. Add a cushioning layer made of sand to the top to create good footing for your horse.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Decide what material you are going to use to construct the pen.\", \"描述\": \"When constructing a pen, you have two options for the pen material:\\nWooden posts and rails: This is likely your cheapest option, depending on lumber costs at your local hardware store or lumberyard. Wooden rails are flexible, in the event your horse falls against them. But they will break under extreme pressure and may cause injury to your horse if they break. The wider the wood rails are, the safer the pen will be.\\nManufactured steel pipe panels: This option is more costly, but the panels are portable, easy to assemble, and can be adjusted in size as necessary. They are also very durable and can withstand a lot of use. But these panels do not “give” if you or your horse falls into them. Most metal panel manufacturers have changed the corner design of the corral panel from rounded to square to prevent a horse from catching a hoof, neck or halter in the gap.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using Wooden Posts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine how many posts you will need for the pen.\", \"描述\": \"The number of posts you need for a given round pen diameter is pi (3.14) times the diameter divided by the distance you want between the posts. Multiplying by 3, instead of 3.14, will give you a rough amount, unless you are making a very large pen.\\nFor example, if your pen is 40 feet by 3 feet or has a circumference of 120 feet, and you want 9 feet between each post, divide 120 by 9 to get 13.3. So, you would need 13 posts (with maybe one extra post just in case) for the pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have an idea of how many posts you will need for your pen, go to your local hardware store and pick up:\\n7” diameter treated wooden posts (you may need to go to a lumberyard)\\nPressure treated wooden boards (approximately 150 3/4-inch by 6-inch by 16-foot)\\nConcrete mix (one bag for each post)\\nA 660’ spool of electric braid\\nA gasoline-driven post-hole digger (you can also rent this or dig the holes manually)\\nNails\\nA hammer\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig the holes for the gate posts first.\", \"描述\": \"Use the post-hole digger to make holes for the gate, based on how wide you want your gate to be. Starting with the gate posts will allow you then work around them as a marker.\\nThe holes should be about 2-3 feet deep.\\nPlace the gate posts in the holes, perpendicular to the ground. Then, fill the holes with cement.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig holes for the other posts.\", \"描述\": \"If you have rocky soil, it may be best to have longer intervals between the posts so you have fewer holes to dig.\\nPlace the posts in the holes and fill the holes with cement.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Soak the pressure-treated boards in water until they are soft and pliable.\", \"描述\": \"Make a solid wall by attaching them to the insides of the posts. Stagger the boards on the posts to distribute the pressure evenly. Cut the remaining boards to the height of your fence and nail them vertically to the inside to cover the joins at the posts.\\nAlternatively, you can create a more open pen by using electric braid instead of wooden boards. Attach 4-5 strands of electric braid between the posts. Depending on how high the posts are, you may use more or fewer strands of braid.\\nBe sure to put enough tension on the braid to prevent sagging between the posts.\\nYou may also want to also add a top railing made of wood to the pen to give it a more sturdy appearance.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install the gate.\", \"描述\": \"You will want a gate big enough for a horse to in and out of the pen, but not large enough for a tractor or multiple horses to pass through.\\nMake a gate out of wood or wood and braid.\\nUsing the gate posts you built earlier, hang the gate.\\nAttach a latch made out of wood or braid to the gate.\\nYou can also purchase ready-made metal or wood gates.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Maintain the wooden pen.\", \"描述\": \"If you used pressurized lumber or treated wood posts, they should hold up pretty well. You can also prime, stain, or paint the wood posts and rails to maintain them.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using Steel Pipe Panels\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine how many panels you will need.\", \"描述\": \"To do this, multiply the diameter of the area by 3.14 to determine the pen’s circumference. Then, divide the circumference by the length of the panels you are going to use.\\nFor example: if you plan to use 10-foot panels to construct a 60-foot pen, multiple 60 by 3.14 to get a circumference of 188.4. Then, divide 188.4 by 10 (panel length) to get 18.84. So, you will need 19 panels for a slightly larger than 60-foot pen.\\nIf you are going to be adding a separate gate piece, make sure you factor in its length when calculating the overall diameter of the pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase panels online or at a pet supply store.\", \"描述\": \"Look for panels made of high-quality galvanized steel, with a clear coat finish that protects the steel from rusting.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set up the panels in the pen area.\", \"描述\": \"Lay them on their sides so that the inside and outside tabs line up with each other.\\nSome panels have a quick pin latch system with built-in pins. This prevents the pins from getting lost when you move the panels.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stand two panels up, side by side.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the tabs are overlapping.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Insert the panel pin between the tabs to connect them together.\", \"描述\": \"Continue with the other panels until they have all been mounted.\\nMany panels will be built with mud legs to prevent them from sinking into the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Maintain the steel pen.\", \"描述\": \"If the panels are made of high-quality steel with a good coating, they should not fall apart easily. Be wary of rust. If the panels start to rust, paint them with a rust-resistant paint.\\nIf the panels get dirty, simply wipe them off with a cloth.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Check the panels and posts of a wooden pen at least once a year to make sure it is stable and secure.\\n\", \"Don't cement the pots in, as this will cause the posts to rot out of their place.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,516 |
How to Build a Round Table
|
1. Steps
1-1. Find, buy, or make a table top.
This top was taken from a 1970s round table. It took a little bit of sanding to remove the blemishes.
1-2. Cut the attachment pieces.
Cut lower attachment pieces to 14.5” long. Chamfer the width dimension to a 60 degree angle. Chamfer the thickness dimension to 15 degrees.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/2\/2c\/Lower_attachment.PNG","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/2\/2c\/Lower_attachment.PNG\/454px-Lower_attachment.PNG","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":266,"bigWidth":454,"bigHeight":263,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
Cut the upper attachment pieces to 7” long. Chamfer the width dimension to a 60 degree angle. Chamfer the thickness dimension to 15 degrees.{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/2\/2b\/Upper_attachment.PNG","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/2\/2b\/Upper_attachment.PNG\/310px-Upper_attachment.PNG","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":404,"bigWidth":310,"bigHeight":272,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
1-3. Attach the lower and upper attachment sections together as shown.
Use a pocket-hole jig to drill the connection holes. Think ahead at this point to make sure the holes are on the bottom (floor) and under the table top. Add glue to the joint before screwing together.
1-4. Once complete, you should have two attachment assemblies.
1-5. Cut the legs to 31” long.
Chamfer the thickness dimension on both ends to 15 degrees – see picture.
1-6. Attach legs to upper attachment assembly.
1-7. Attach lower attachment assembly.
1-8. Sand.
Use wood filler to cover the screw holes and any gaps in the wood. Sand to remove wood filler and clean up the joint lines.
1-9. Paint or stain the legs and top to your desired color.
This version used white for the legs and green for the top.
1-10. Add a guide hole for the leg assembly.
Drill a small hole at the intersection of the upper attachment assembly. This will be the center location for the round top.
1-11. Drill an alignment hole in top.
Find the center of the round top. Measure the diameter. Use a string or tape measure set to the radius and draw a light arc. Move the string to another point on the edge of the table and draw another arc. The intersection of these two arcs is the center. Try a third arc to verify. Drill a hole at the intersection.
1-12. Attach the top to the leg assembly.
Use a nail or rod to line up the hole in the leg assembly and the hole in the round top. This will keep the top centered on the leg assembly. Drill pilot holes through the upper attachment subassembly. Use wood screws to attach the leg assembly to the top. Make sure the screws don’t protrude through the top.
1-13. Finished!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:01",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Find, buy, or make a table top.\\nThis top was taken from a 1970s round table. It took a little bit of sanding to remove the blemishes.\\n1-2. Cut the attachment pieces.\\nCut lower attachment pieces to 14.5” long. Chamfer the width dimension to a 60 degree angle. Chamfer the thickness dimension to 15 degrees. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/2\\\\/2c\\\\/Lower_attachment.PNG\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2c\\\\/Lower_attachment.PNG\\\\/454px-Lower_attachment.PNG\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":266,\\\"bigWidth\\\":454,\\\"bigHeight\\\":263,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nCut the upper attachment pieces to 7” long. Chamfer the width dimension to a 60 degree angle. Chamfer the thickness dimension to 15 degrees.{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/2\\\\/2b\\\\/Upper_attachment.PNG\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2b\\\\/Upper_attachment.PNG\\\\/310px-Upper_attachment.PNG\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":404,\\\"bigWidth\\\":310,\\\"bigHeight\\\":272,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-3. Attach the lower and upper attachment sections together as shown.\\nUse a pocket-hole jig to drill the connection holes. Think ahead at this point to make sure the holes are on the bottom (floor) and under the table top. Add glue to the joint before screwing together.\\n1-4. Once complete, you should have two attachment assemblies.\\n\\n1-5. Cut the legs to 31” long.\\nChamfer the thickness dimension on both ends to 15 degrees – see picture.\\n1-6. Attach legs to upper attachment assembly.\\n\\n1-7. Attach lower attachment assembly.\\n\\n1-8. Sand.\\nUse wood filler to cover the screw holes and any gaps in the wood. Sand to remove wood filler and clean up the joint lines.\\n1-9. Paint or stain the legs and top to your desired color.\\nThis version used white for the legs and green for the top.\\n1-10. Add a guide hole for the leg assembly.\\nDrill a small hole at the intersection of the upper attachment assembly. This will be the center location for the round top.\\n1-11. Drill an alignment hole in top.\\nFind the center of the round top. Measure the diameter. Use a string or tape measure set to the radius and draw a light arc. Move the string to another point on the edge of the table and draw another arc. The intersection of these two arcs is the center. Try a third arc to verify. Drill a hole at the intersection.\\n1-12. Attach the top to the leg assembly.\\nUse a nail or rod to line up the hole in the leg assembly and the hole in the round top. This will keep the top centered on the leg assembly. Drill pilot holes through the upper attachment subassembly. Use wood screws to attach the leg assembly to the top. Make sure the screws don’t protrude through the top.\\n1-13. Finished!\\n\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This project was built with a round top from a broken table and two 2x4’s. The top in this project is 30 inches (76.2 cm) in diameter. However, the design can be scaled up or down based on your top diameter and/or desired table height. See drawing and video for build instructions.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find, buy, or make a table top.\", \"描述\": \"This top was taken from a 1970s round table. It took a little bit of sanding to remove the blemishes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the attachment pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Cut lower attachment pieces to 14.5” long. Chamfer the width dimension to a 60 degree angle. Chamfer the thickness dimension to 15 degrees. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/2\\\\/2c\\\\/Lower_attachment.PNG\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2c\\\\/Lower_attachment.PNG\\\\/454px-Lower_attachment.PNG\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":266,\\\"bigWidth\\\":454,\\\"bigHeight\\\":263,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nCut the upper attachment pieces to 7” long. Chamfer the width dimension to a 60 degree angle. Chamfer the thickness dimension to 15 degrees.{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/2\\\\/2b\\\\/Upper_attachment.PNG\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2b\\\\/Upper_attachment.PNG\\\\/310px-Upper_attachment.PNG\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":404,\\\"bigWidth\\\":310,\\\"bigHeight\\\":272,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the lower and upper attachment sections together as shown.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pocket-hole jig to drill the connection holes. Think ahead at this point to make sure the holes are on the bottom (floor) and under the table top. Add glue to the joint before screwing together.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Once complete, you should have two attachment assemblies.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the legs to 31” long.\", \"描述\": \"Chamfer the thickness dimension on both ends to 15 degrees – see picture.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach legs to upper attachment assembly.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach lower attachment assembly.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Sand.\", \"描述\": \"Use wood filler to cover the screw holes and any gaps in the wood. Sand to remove wood filler and clean up the joint lines.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Paint or stain the legs and top to your desired color.\", \"描述\": \"This version used white for the legs and green for the top.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add a guide hole for the leg assembly.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a small hole at the intersection of the upper attachment assembly. This will be the center location for the round top.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Drill an alignment hole in top.\", \"描述\": \"Find the center of the round top. Measure the diameter. Use a string or tape measure set to the radius and draw a light arc. Move the string to another point on the edge of the table and draw another arc. The intersection of these two arcs is the center. Try a third arc to verify. Drill a hole at the intersection.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Attach the top to the leg assembly.\", \"描述\": \"Use a nail or rod to line up the hole in the leg assembly and the hole in the round top. This will keep the top centered on the leg assembly. Drill pilot holes through the upper attachment subassembly. Use wood screws to attach the leg assembly to the top. Make sure the screws don’t protrude through the top.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Finished!\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,517 |
How to Build a Router Table
|
1. Constructing the Table
1-1. Cut a sheet of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood to 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m).
Use a straightedge and a pencil to make the lines you'll along. Push the board slowly through the table saw to make a straight, even cut. If you want to ensure you're cutting a straight line, use a guide along one side of the plywood.
If you use plywood any thinner than ⁄4 in (1.9 cm), it will not be able to support the weight of the router.
The size of the plywood can be increased or decreased depending on how much tabletop space you want.
1-2. Make a rectangular frame with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards.
Cut 2 boards so they are 17 in (43 cm) long and another pair of boards to a length of 45 in (110 cm) long. Arrange the boards into a rectangle so the shorter boards fit between the longer ones. Set the frame so it is 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from the edges of the tabletop.
1-3. Connect the ends of the frame boards using wood screws with a drill.
Pre-drill 2 holes into the ends of the boards so the wood doesn't split. Then drill in 2 construction screws in each corner to attach the longer board to the end of the shorter board. Make sure the screws are completely tight so the frame doesn't fall apart.
If you have a pocket hole guide, you can attach the boards together in the corners discreetly with pocket screws.
1-4. Use angle brackets and wood screws to secure the frame to the tabletop.
Place the frame on the bottom of the tabletop so the boards are 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from each side. Use 2 angle brackets for each board and place them at least 4 in (10 cm) from the inside corners of the frame. Screw them into the frame, then screw the other side of the bracket to the bottom of the table.
Use screws less than ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) long so they don't break through the tabletop.
If your frame still fits loosely to the tabletop, use another metal bracket in the middle of each board.
1-5. Make the legs with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards cut to waist height.
Measure the distance from the floor to your waist using a tape measure. Once you find the height, make marks on your boards so you know where to saw them. Cut the boards using a table or circular saw and sand the bottoms so they sit flat on the ground.
Having the table at waist height allows you to work comfortably without having to reach far.
You can also make the table the same height as your current workbenches if you'd prefer.
1-6. Screw the legs into the support frame at each corner.
Place the legs in the inner corners of the support frame you've built. Drill 2 construction screws into each leg to attach the legs to the frame's shortest sides. Once the legs are attached, flip the table over so it's upright.
Use wood glue before you put in the screws the legs to have extra security.
1-7. Add cross supports between the legs 8 in (20 cm) from the floor.
Measure the distance between the legs of your table and cut pieces of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to the same length. Pre-drill the holes through the boards and legs so the wood doesn't split. Attach the supports between each leg with construction screws and a drill so your table is sturdy when you use it.
Use a level and clamps to hold the support in place while you screw it in.
If your wood cracks, squeeze wood glue into the gap and clamp it tight so it is secure.
2. Making Space for the Router
2-1. Trace a 1 ft × 1 ft (30 cm × 30 cm) piece of acrylic onto the tabletop.
Place the acrylic on top of the table at least 4 in (10 cm) from one of the long sides. Use a pencil to draw a line on the tabletop in the shape of the acrylic.
If you want more counter space to hold tools or materials, make the square closer to the front. Otherwise, you can place the hole in the center of the table.
2-2. Measure in 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from each side of the square.
Use a tape measure or ruler on each side of the traced square and make marks 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in from each side. Use a straightedge and a pencil to draw a second square inside the one you already traced. This square is what you'll cut out so your router can fit under the table.
Some routers may be different sizes and require a smaller or larger hole. Measure the width of your router to see if you need to make any adjustments.
2-3. Cut holes in each corner of the smaller square with a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole cutter.
Place your drill bit as close to the corner as you can. Turn your drill on and push down with an even pressure so the bit cuts through the tabletop completely. Repeat this for each corner of the smaller square.
Cutting the holes in each corner gives you a starting point for when you start sawing and helps relieve some of the pressure when you make your cuts.
2-4. Cut the inner square out with a jigsaw.
Place the jigsaw in one of the holes you cut in the corner. Follow the line you drew to one of the other corners. Keep cutting until the square falls out or can easily be removed by hand.
Work slowly with your saw so you don't travel outside of the lines.
2-5. Route the 1 ft × 1 ft (30 cm × 30 cm) section to make a ledge for the acrylic.
Use a straight bit in your router and set the thickness on the router to the same thickness as the acrylic sheet. Turn the router on and press it firmly into the tabletop. Slowly work left and right to file away the wood up to the line you've drawn. Make sure not to work past the lines or else the sheet of acrylic will fit loosely.
Wear eye protection and a face mask since the router will produce a lot of sawdust.
Make guides out of spare 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards and clamps to prevent you from going outside of the edges you've marked.
2-6. Sand the edges and corners of the square so the acrylic sheet fits.
Use a 150 or 240-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges of the routed-out section of tabletop and round the corners of the acrylic sheet. Test how the acrylic fits inside the tabletop and continue to make adjustments as you need them.
The router will make curved corners on the tabletop, so you need to round the acrylic so it matches.
3. Installing the Router
3-1. Make a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) round hole in the center of the acrylic sheet.
Use a hole saw attachment for your drill in the center of the acrylic sheet to make your cut. Apply a firm amount of pressure to cut through the acrylic completely. Pull the saw out and sand any rough edges.
To find the center of the acrylic, use a dry erase marker and a straightedge to draw lines across the sheet from one corner to the other. Turn the acrylic sheet and make another line between the 2 remaining corners. The center will be where the lines intersect. Wipe the lines clean with a dry cloth.
3-2. Use the old router plate to mark where the mounting screws should go.
Take the plate off of the router and line up the center hole with the one you made in the acrylic. Look for the holes around the plate where you would attach screws and use a marker to make a dot on the acrylic so you know where to make the holes.
The holes need to line up or else the router will not properly fit under the table.
3-3. Drill holes into the acrylic for each mounting screw.
Use a drill bit that matches the size of the screws to make holes where you've marked the dots. Drill completely through the acrylic with your drill bit so you can easily attach the mounting screws to the router.
To make the screws flush with the acrylic, use a drill bit the same diameter as the screw heads. Drill ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) down in the holes you just made.
3-4. Attach the router to the underside of the acrylic with screws.
Set your router upside down and place the sheet of acrylic on top of it. Line up the holes so the center is over the router bit and the mounting holes line up. Use a drill to attach the screws to your router to the acrylic so it holds firmly in place.
3-5. Drop the acrylic and router into the table so it fits flush.
Carefully feed the power cord through the hole in the tabletop and set your router inside so the acrylic sheet sits on the ledge. Make sure the acrylic is flush with the tabletop. Once the router and acrylic are in place, you can plug it in and it's ready to use!
If you ever need to remove your router, lift it out of the hole and unscrew it from the acrylic sheet.
Tips
You can install and wire a switch on the leg of your router table to make turning the machine on and off easier.
Keep a shop vacuum nearby since routers will generate a lot of sawdust when used.
Warnings
Use caution when working with saws and power tools.
Wear protective eye gear and a face mask to shield yourself from sawdust.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:01",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the Table\\n1-1. Cut a sheet of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood to 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m).\\nUse a straightedge and a pencil to make the lines you'll along. Push the board slowly through the table saw to make a straight, even cut. If you want to ensure you're cutting a straight line, use a guide along one side of the plywood.\\nIf you use plywood any thinner than ⁄4 in (1.9 cm), it will not be able to support the weight of the router.\\nThe size of the plywood can be increased or decreased depending on how much tabletop space you want.\\n1-2. Make a rectangular frame with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards.\\nCut 2 boards so they are 17 in (43 cm) long and another pair of boards to a length of 45 in (110 cm) long. Arrange the boards into a rectangle so the shorter boards fit between the longer ones. Set the frame so it is 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from the edges of the tabletop.\\n1-3. Connect the ends of the frame boards using wood screws with a drill.\\nPre-drill 2 holes into the ends of the boards so the wood doesn't split. Then drill in 2 construction screws in each corner to attach the longer board to the end of the shorter board. Make sure the screws are completely tight so the frame doesn't fall apart.\\nIf you have a pocket hole guide, you can attach the boards together in the corners discreetly with pocket screws.\\n1-4. Use angle brackets and wood screws to secure the frame to the tabletop.\\nPlace the frame on the bottom of the tabletop so the boards are 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from each side. Use 2 angle brackets for each board and place them at least 4 in (10 cm) from the inside corners of the frame. Screw them into the frame, then screw the other side of the bracket to the bottom of the table.\\nUse screws less than ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) long so they don't break through the tabletop.\\nIf your frame still fits loosely to the tabletop, use another metal bracket in the middle of each board.\\n1-5. Make the legs with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards cut to waist height.\\nMeasure the distance from the floor to your waist using a tape measure. Once you find the height, make marks on your boards so you know where to saw them. Cut the boards using a table or circular saw and sand the bottoms so they sit flat on the ground.\\nHaving the table at waist height allows you to work comfortably without having to reach far.\\nYou can also make the table the same height as your current workbenches if you'd prefer.\\n1-6. Screw the legs into the support frame at each corner.\\nPlace the legs in the inner corners of the support frame you've built. Drill 2 construction screws into each leg to attach the legs to the frame's shortest sides. Once the legs are attached, flip the table over so it's upright.\\nUse wood glue before you put in the screws the legs to have extra security.\\n1-7. Add cross supports between the legs 8 in (20 cm) from the floor.\\nMeasure the distance between the legs of your table and cut pieces of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to the same length. Pre-drill the holes through the boards and legs so the wood doesn't split. Attach the supports between each leg with construction screws and a drill so your table is sturdy when you use it.\\nUse a level and clamps to hold the support in place while you screw it in.\\nIf your wood cracks, squeeze wood glue into the gap and clamp it tight so it is secure.\\n2. Making Space for the Router\\n2-1. Trace a 1 ft × 1 ft (30 cm × 30 cm) piece of acrylic onto the tabletop.\\nPlace the acrylic on top of the table at least 4 in (10 cm) from one of the long sides. Use a pencil to draw a line on the tabletop in the shape of the acrylic.\\nIf you want more counter space to hold tools or materials, make the square closer to the front. Otherwise, you can place the hole in the center of the table.\\n2-2. Measure in 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from each side of the square.\\nUse a tape measure or ruler on each side of the traced square and make marks 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in from each side. Use a straightedge and a pencil to draw a second square inside the one you already traced. This square is what you'll cut out so your router can fit under the table.\\nSome routers may be different sizes and require a smaller or larger hole. Measure the width of your router to see if you need to make any adjustments.\\n2-3. Cut holes in each corner of the smaller square with a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole cutter.\\nPlace your drill bit as close to the corner as you can. Turn your drill on and push down with an even pressure so the bit cuts through the tabletop completely. Repeat this for each corner of the smaller square.\\nCutting the holes in each corner gives you a starting point for when you start sawing and helps relieve some of the pressure when you make your cuts.\\n2-4. Cut the inner square out with a jigsaw.\\nPlace the jigsaw in one of the holes you cut in the corner. Follow the line you drew to one of the other corners. Keep cutting until the square falls out or can easily be removed by hand.\\nWork slowly with your saw so you don't travel outside of the lines.\\n2-5. Route the 1 ft × 1 ft (30 cm × 30 cm) section to make a ledge for the acrylic.\\nUse a straight bit in your router and set the thickness on the router to the same thickness as the acrylic sheet. Turn the router on and press it firmly into the tabletop. Slowly work left and right to file away the wood up to the line you've drawn. Make sure not to work past the lines or else the sheet of acrylic will fit loosely.\\nWear eye protection and a face mask since the router will produce a lot of sawdust.\\nMake guides out of spare 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards and clamps to prevent you from going outside of the edges you've marked.\\n2-6. Sand the edges and corners of the square so the acrylic sheet fits.\\nUse a 150 or 240-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges of the routed-out section of tabletop and round the corners of the acrylic sheet. Test how the acrylic fits inside the tabletop and continue to make adjustments as you need them.\\nThe router will make curved corners on the tabletop, so you need to round the acrylic so it matches.\\n3. Installing the Router\\n3-1. Make a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) round hole in the center of the acrylic sheet.\\nUse a hole saw attachment for your drill in the center of the acrylic sheet to make your cut. Apply a firm amount of pressure to cut through the acrylic completely. Pull the saw out and sand any rough edges.\\nTo find the center of the acrylic, use a dry erase marker and a straightedge to draw lines across the sheet from one corner to the other. Turn the acrylic sheet and make another line between the 2 remaining corners. The center will be where the lines intersect. Wipe the lines clean with a dry cloth.\\n3-2. Use the old router plate to mark where the mounting screws should go.\\nTake the plate off of the router and line up the center hole with the one you made in the acrylic. Look for the holes around the plate where you would attach screws and use a marker to make a dot on the acrylic so you know where to make the holes.\\nThe holes need to line up or else the router will not properly fit under the table.\\n3-3. Drill holes into the acrylic for each mounting screw.\\nUse a drill bit that matches the size of the screws to make holes where you've marked the dots. Drill completely through the acrylic with your drill bit so you can easily attach the mounting screws to the router.\\nTo make the screws flush with the acrylic, use a drill bit the same diameter as the screw heads. Drill ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) down in the holes you just made.\\n3-4. Attach the router to the underside of the acrylic with screws.\\nSet your router upside down and place the sheet of acrylic on top of it. Line up the holes so the center is over the router bit and the mounting holes line up. Use a drill to attach the screws to your router to the acrylic so it holds firmly in place.\\n3-5. Drop the acrylic and router into the table so it fits flush.\\nCarefully feed the power cord through the hole in the tabletop and set your router inside so the acrylic sheet sits on the ledge. Make sure the acrylic is flush with the tabletop. Once the router and acrylic are in place, you can plug it in and it's ready to use!\\nIf you ever need to remove your router, lift it out of the hole and unscrew it from the acrylic sheet.\\nTips\\nYou can install and wire a switch on the leg of your router table to make turning the machine on and off easier.\\nKeep a shop vacuum nearby since routers will generate a lot of sawdust when used.\\nWarnings\\nUse caution when working with saws and power tools.\\nWear protective eye gear and a face mask to shield yourself from sawdust.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Routers are used to cut grooves or bevels into wood, and router tables make the router stable so it's easier for you to work with. Luckily, a simple table is easy to assemble and only takes a few hours and power tools to complete. By making the table frame, cutting out a space for your router, and installing it, you'll be up and working in no time!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Table\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut a sheet of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood to 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m).\", \"描述\": \"Use a straightedge and a pencil to make the lines you'll along. Push the board slowly through the table saw to make a straight, even cut. If you want to ensure you're cutting a straight line, use a guide along one side of the plywood.\\nIf you use plywood any thinner than ⁄4 in (1.9 cm), it will not be able to support the weight of the router.\\nThe size of the plywood can be increased or decreased depending on how much tabletop space you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a rectangular frame with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 2 boards so they are 17 in (43 cm) long and another pair of boards to a length of 45 in (110 cm) long. Arrange the boards into a rectangle so the shorter boards fit between the longer ones. Set the frame so it is 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from the edges of the tabletop.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the ends of the frame boards using wood screws with a drill.\", \"描述\": \"Pre-drill 2 holes into the ends of the boards so the wood doesn't split. Then drill in 2 construction screws in each corner to attach the longer board to the end of the shorter board. Make sure the screws are completely tight so the frame doesn't fall apart.\\nIf you have a pocket hole guide, you can attach the boards together in the corners discreetly with pocket screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use angle brackets and wood screws to secure the frame to the tabletop.\", \"描述\": \"Place the frame on the bottom of the tabletop so the boards are 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from each side. Use 2 angle brackets for each board and place them at least 4 in (10 cm) from the inside corners of the frame. Screw them into the frame, then screw the other side of the bracket to the bottom of the table.\\nUse screws less than ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) long so they don't break through the tabletop.\\nIf your frame still fits loosely to the tabletop, use another metal bracket in the middle of each board.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make the legs with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards cut to waist height.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the distance from the floor to your waist using a tape measure. Once you find the height, make marks on your boards so you know where to saw them. Cut the boards using a table or circular saw and sand the bottoms so they sit flat on the ground.\\nHaving the table at waist height allows you to work comfortably without having to reach far.\\nYou can also make the table the same height as your current workbenches if you'd prefer.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Screw the legs into the support frame at each corner.\", \"描述\": \"Place the legs in the inner corners of the support frame you've built. Drill 2 construction screws into each leg to attach the legs to the frame's shortest sides. Once the legs are attached, flip the table over so it's upright.\\nUse wood glue before you put in the screws the legs to have extra security.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add cross supports between the legs 8 in (20 cm) from the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the distance between the legs of your table and cut pieces of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to the same length. Pre-drill the holes through the boards and legs so the wood doesn't split. Attach the supports between each leg with construction screws and a drill so your table is sturdy when you use it.\\nUse a level and clamps to hold the support in place while you screw it in.\\nIf your wood cracks, squeeze wood glue into the gap and clamp it tight so it is secure.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making Space for the Router\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Trace a 1 ft × 1 ft (30 cm × 30 cm) piece of acrylic onto the tabletop.\", \"描述\": \"Place the acrylic on top of the table at least 4 in (10 cm) from one of the long sides. Use a pencil to draw a line on the tabletop in the shape of the acrylic.\\nIf you want more counter space to hold tools or materials, make the square closer to the front. Otherwise, you can place the hole in the center of the table.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure in 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from each side of the square.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tape measure or ruler on each side of the traced square and make marks 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in from each side. Use a straightedge and a pencil to draw a second square inside the one you already traced. This square is what you'll cut out so your router can fit under the table.\\nSome routers may be different sizes and require a smaller or larger hole. Measure the width of your router to see if you need to make any adjustments.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut holes in each corner of the smaller square with a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole cutter.\", \"描述\": \"Place your drill bit as close to the corner as you can. Turn your drill on and push down with an even pressure so the bit cuts through the tabletop completely. Repeat this for each corner of the smaller square.\\nCutting the holes in each corner gives you a starting point for when you start sawing and helps relieve some of the pressure when you make your cuts.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the inner square out with a jigsaw.\", \"描述\": \"Place the jigsaw in one of the holes you cut in the corner. Follow the line you drew to one of the other corners. Keep cutting until the square falls out or can easily be removed by hand.\\nWork slowly with your saw so you don't travel outside of the lines.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Route the 1 ft × 1 ft (30 cm × 30 cm) section to make a ledge for the acrylic.\", \"描述\": \"Use a straight bit in your router and set the thickness on the router to the same thickness as the acrylic sheet. Turn the router on and press it firmly into the tabletop. Slowly work left and right to file away the wood up to the line you've drawn. Make sure not to work past the lines or else the sheet of acrylic will fit loosely.\\nWear eye protection and a face mask since the router will produce a lot of sawdust.\\nMake guides out of spare 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards and clamps to prevent you from going outside of the edges you've marked.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Sand the edges and corners of the square so the acrylic sheet fits.\", \"描述\": \"Use a 150 or 240-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges of the routed-out section of tabletop and round the corners of the acrylic sheet. Test how the acrylic fits inside the tabletop and continue to make adjustments as you need them.\\nThe router will make curved corners on the tabletop, so you need to round the acrylic so it matches.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Router\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) round hole in the center of the acrylic sheet.\", \"描述\": \"Use a hole saw attachment for your drill in the center of the acrylic sheet to make your cut. Apply a firm amount of pressure to cut through the acrylic completely. Pull the saw out and sand any rough edges.\\nTo find the center of the acrylic, use a dry erase marker and a straightedge to draw lines across the sheet from one corner to the other. Turn the acrylic sheet and make another line between the 2 remaining corners. The center will be where the lines intersect. Wipe the lines clean with a dry cloth.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use the old router plate to mark where the mounting screws should go.\", \"描述\": \"Take the plate off of the router and line up the center hole with the one you made in the acrylic. Look for the holes around the plate where you would attach screws and use a marker to make a dot on the acrylic so you know where to make the holes.\\nThe holes need to line up or else the router will not properly fit under the table.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill holes into the acrylic for each mounting screw.\", \"描述\": \"Use a drill bit that matches the size of the screws to make holes where you've marked the dots. Drill completely through the acrylic with your drill bit so you can easily attach the mounting screws to the router.\\nTo make the screws flush with the acrylic, use a drill bit the same diameter as the screw heads. Drill ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) down in the holes you just made.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the router to the underside of the acrylic with screws.\", \"描述\": \"Set your router upside down and place the sheet of acrylic on top of it. Line up the holes so the center is over the router bit and the mounting holes line up. Use a drill to attach the screws to your router to the acrylic so it holds firmly in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drop the acrylic and router into the table so it fits flush.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully feed the power cord through the hole in the tabletop and set your router inside so the acrylic sheet sits on the ledge. Make sure the acrylic is flush with the tabletop. Once the router and acrylic are in place, you can plug it in and it's ready to use!\\nIf you ever need to remove your router, lift it out of the hole and unscrew it from the acrylic sheet.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can install and wire a switch on the leg of your router table to make turning the machine on and off easier.\\n\", \"Keep a shop vacuum nearby since routers will generate a lot of sawdust when used.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Use caution when working with saws and power tools.\\n\", \"Wear protective eye gear and a face mask to shield yourself from sawdust.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,518 |
How to Build a Safe Playground for Your Pet Rats
|
1. Setting up a Closed-Off Area
1-1. Clear the area of anything that could harm your rats.
While the play area will be surrounded by a barrier, bright lights, and low heater vents, make sure to keep electric wires out of the way. Electric wires can hurt your rat. Clear the area of chemicals, wires, sharp objects, and anything that emits smoke (like a candle). Choose a location away from foot traffic and other animals.
The best place to keep a rat play area is in the corner of a living room or on a hardwood floor. Just keep the play area away from things you don't want chewed up and away from outlets.
1-2. Place a blanket or tarp over a flat surface to protect it from damage.
It's best to plan a play area on a raised surface, but you can set one up on the floor if you don't have space. Rats instinctively like to chew things up, so protect your floor or table with a plastic tarp or blanket before you add anything else. Plus, if they relieve themselves in the area, you just have to wash the tarp or blanket rather than break out the cleaning spray.
If you put the playground on a table, you may not need to put up a fence around the play area, as rats won't jump off a height that will hurt them. Use your own judgement and knowledge of your rats' behaviour to decide whether to keep it free-range or build a barrier.
Keeping the play area on the floor allows you to keep a better eye on the rats, though they may chew your carpet if they get through the blanket or tarp.
1-3. Cut out and tape together flat, equal-sized cardboard panels.
Take a few boxes, lay them flat, and cut away each side until you have at least a few dozen equal-sized pieces. Use duct tape to close holes and to flatten pieces that fold down so each panel is completely flattened. Line up the panels side by side and duct tape the edges to form a single long, flexible barrier.
It's best to make your rat play area 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) wide in all directions, so make the barrier long enough to encapsulate this area when you set it up on the tarp.
Fold the pieces one by one to form an accordion-like shape. This allows for easy storage of the cardboard barrier, which can be reused over and over again.
Use cardboard pieces at least 2 feet (0.61 m) tall to prevent your rats from jumping out. Use taller pieces if your rats are particularly agile.
1-4. Place the cardboard barrier around your chosen area in a circle.
Making sure to keep the barrier on the blanket or tarp, surround the area with the cardboard in a circle shape until the two ends meet. Connect the two ends with binder clips, and check again for any holes the rats could sneak through. Tape up these holes and you're ready to start adding toys and playthings.
Using binder clips to secure the ends together rather than tape makes this barrier reusable. Simply remove the binder clips when the rats are done, and fold the barrier into an accordion-like shape again.
If your cardboard barrier is too large to stay within the confines of the tarp or blanket, cut away a panel at a time until it surrounds the area without any of the underlying surface peeking through.
2. Adding Toys and Accessories
2-1. Use only toys and accessories with no sharp edges or moving parts.
Rats like to play with just about everything, but avoid providing these types of toys or your rat could get itself caught and seriously hurt itself. Rats like to drag their tails behind them, so it could get caught in a battery-powered toy or on a sharp piece of metal. Opt for soft, rounded toys instead.
A rat wheel is one of the few exceptions to this. As long as the inside panel is completely covered, the rat shouldn't get its tail stuck in any moving parts. Buy a wheel specially made for rats, as mouse and hamster wheels are just too small for them to use.
2-2. Build a cardboard "rat fort" inside the play area.
Cut out some rat-sized holes in a few small boxes, such as shoe boxes, and arrange them on top of each other randomly to create a tall structure for your rats to explore. Cut some holes in the tops of the boxes too so your rats can crawl around inside the fort. Arrange other accessories as you see fit, like small pieces of fabric to create curtains, or strips of cardboard to make ladders.
Add treats wrapped in paper to the inside of the fort, which entices your rats into exploring for hidden treasure!
2-3. Add some PVC pipe or fabric tunnels for your rat to crawl through.
PVC pipe is perfect for creating elaborate mazes for your rats. Go to your local hardware store for a variety of at least 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide PVC pipes. Connect angled pipes, straight pipes, and pipe connectors together in random arrangements to create a tunnel maze. You can also make fabric tunnels by cutting the legs or sleeves of old clothes and stuffing them with toilet paper tubes.
PVC pipe is better for rats who like to chew a lot, whereas a fabric tunnel lets you keep an eye on where your rat is at in the maze.
Simply disconnect the PVC pipes from each other when you are ready to take down the rat play area — you can create a different maze pattern next time you let the rats out!
2-4. Create a pea fishing pond with a shallow dish and rocks.
Fill a shallow dish, no more than 1 in (2.5 cm) deep, halfway with water. Place some rocks big enough to poke out of the water, and add some frozen peas. Your water-loving rats will love the chance to get wet and get a snack at the same time, while your water-fearing rats can safely stand on a rock or on the edge and grab peas that float by!
A paint tray meant for paint rollers is great for this, as it has a deep end and a shallow end. Your rats can stand on one side and fish, or go for a dip in the deeper end.
2-5. Add a small bin of trash for your rats to root around in.
Fill a small garbage basket, one that you would keep under a desk, with crumpled paper, toilet paper rolls, extra pieces of cardboard, and other soft, safe materials for your rat to dig through. Rats love crunchy noises and collecting bits of trash for themselves, so use a variety of materials to entertain your rat.
Root through your own trash and recycling bin for small objects that are safe for your rat if you want to conserve resources.
Don't add any discarded food or organic products, as if they have gone bad your rat might get sick. If you want to add food to the bin, add some rat snacks at the bottom before filling it with trash, as this entices your rats to dig in deeper.
2-6. Create a digging pit with a plastic container, dirt, and veggie sprouts.
Fill a square plastic container halfway with regular, clean soil, then plant sprout seeds, wheat seeds, and grass seeds. Water the soil until its slightly saturated each day for about a week. When the sprouts start to show, let your rats dig around and munch on the greenery!
Rats can eat just about anything, but avoid planting poppy seeds in the digging pit. It's been shown that poppies can kill rats.
If you'd rather not wait for a week as the sprouts grow, simply bury some of your rats' favorite treats under the dirt and let them dig them out. Be sure to use clean soil, which you can buy at any gardening store.
Rats also love chewing plants in general, so if you have plants that are dying and you plan to throw them out anyway, let your rats have some fun with them first!
3. Playing with Your Rats Safely
3-1. Let your rats out for free-range play time at least once a day.
Rats need exercise and free roam time to prevent boredom and cabin fever. Rats that don't get let out tend to become territorial, aggressive towards people, and shy. Let your rats out at least once a day in their play area for at least an hour. If you have the time, let them out more often for longer, and don't forget to interact with them when they're out!
Rats are extremely social animals and will feel cramped and bored if they stay in their cage with no interaction. Even if you have a few rats, the cage simply isn't enough space for them to roam and be curious.
Handle your rats with care, as mishandled rats can start to distrust people and may become aggressive. Never squeeze or throw your rats, only hold them in your palm or let them walk on your arms.
3-2. Keep an eye on the rats as they play to watch for escapes and fights.
Rats are very quick and very nimble, so even if you think the cardboard barrier is tall enough, a rat can jump it if desperate enough. Rats also fight quite often, but break up fights that get particularly vicious. Never leave the room your rats are playing in or you won't be able to prevent them from escaping, fighting, or chewing things they shouldn't.
When play fighting, rats will squeak and tumble around, but when really fighting, their fur raises and they scream a lot louder and a lot more often, usually while wrestling quite viciously. Break up fights that seem too rough, but let your rats play if they aren't actively scratching or biting each other.
Check your rats for scratches and bites if the fight got too intense. Keep the rats separated until they've both calmed down if one has been hurt. For particularly bad injuries, contact your vet for help.
3-3. Avoid smoking or vaping in the same room as the rats.
Rats are incredibly prone to respiratory issues — in fact, it's the number one cause of rat deaths. Do not smoke or vape in the same room as your rats ever, and turn off oil diffusers and put out candles in the same room as well.
Use dust-free lining for the cage and clean it at least once a week to further prevent respiratory issues.
3-4. Clean up messes as soon as they occur, and wash the blanket or tarp between uses.
If you see your rat pee or poop in the play area, wipe it or pick it up with a dry paper towel and discard it. Clean the underlying tarp or blanket between uses to minimize the risk of getting your rats sick or stinking up the play area.
If the blanket or tarp doesn't smell or has no stains, it's usually fine to use at least one more time before a wash. Always wash and clean your tarp or blanket if your rats relieved themselves on it.
3-5. Wash and repair toys as the rats dirty and damage them.
Rinse non-cardboard toys under water, wash fabric tunnels at least once a week, and replace cardboard boxes as they start to smell and get chewed up. This ensures that your rats' play area is fresh and clean every time, and reduces the chance of getting respiratory issues or diseases.
If the barrier itself becomes damaged, try duct tape to cover holes first, but you may need to remove damaged panels and re-attach new ones if the holes are unfixable.
Tips
Store all of your cleaned rat play supplies in a plastic tub for easy access later on. Keep the tub next to the cage for easy set up next time you want to bring your rats out!
Don't work too hard on making everything look pretty unless you really want to. Remember that your rats will probably tear it up anyway.
Warnings
When selecting garbage to reuse as rat toys, cut up anything they could get their feet or head stuck in.
Always check your materials for sharp objects or hazardous parts.
NEVER use a run-around ball for a rat. It can permanently damage their spine!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:01",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting up a Closed-Off Area\\n1-1. Clear the area of anything that could harm your rats.\\nWhile the play area will be surrounded by a barrier, bright lights, and low heater vents, make sure to keep electric wires out of the way. Electric wires can hurt your rat. Clear the area of chemicals, wires, sharp objects, and anything that emits smoke (like a candle). Choose a location away from foot traffic and other animals.\\nThe best place to keep a rat play area is in the corner of a living room or on a hardwood floor. Just keep the play area away from things you don't want chewed up and away from outlets.\\n1-2. Place a blanket or tarp over a flat surface to protect it from damage.\\nIt's best to plan a play area on a raised surface, but you can set one up on the floor if you don't have space. Rats instinctively like to chew things up, so protect your floor or table with a plastic tarp or blanket before you add anything else. Plus, if they relieve themselves in the area, you just have to wash the tarp or blanket rather than break out the cleaning spray.\\nIf you put the playground on a table, you may not need to put up a fence around the play area, as rats won't jump off a height that will hurt them. Use your own judgement and knowledge of your rats' behaviour to decide whether to keep it free-range or build a barrier.\\nKeeping the play area on the floor allows you to keep a better eye on the rats, though they may chew your carpet if they get through the blanket or tarp.\\n1-3. Cut out and tape together flat, equal-sized cardboard panels.\\nTake a few boxes, lay them flat, and cut away each side until you have at least a few dozen equal-sized pieces. Use duct tape to close holes and to flatten pieces that fold down so each panel is completely flattened. Line up the panels side by side and duct tape the edges to form a single long, flexible barrier.\\nIt's best to make your rat play area 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) wide in all directions, so make the barrier long enough to encapsulate this area when you set it up on the tarp.\\nFold the pieces one by one to form an accordion-like shape. This allows for easy storage of the cardboard barrier, which can be reused over and over again.\\nUse cardboard pieces at least 2 feet (0.61 m) tall to prevent your rats from jumping out. Use taller pieces if your rats are particularly agile.\\n1-4. Place the cardboard barrier around your chosen area in a circle.\\nMaking sure to keep the barrier on the blanket or tarp, surround the area with the cardboard in a circle shape until the two ends meet. Connect the two ends with binder clips, and check again for any holes the rats could sneak through. Tape up these holes and you're ready to start adding toys and playthings.\\nUsing binder clips to secure the ends together rather than tape makes this barrier reusable. Simply remove the binder clips when the rats are done, and fold the barrier into an accordion-like shape again.\\nIf your cardboard barrier is too large to stay within the confines of the tarp or blanket, cut away a panel at a time until it surrounds the area without any of the underlying surface peeking through.\\n2. Adding Toys and Accessories\\n2-1. Use only toys and accessories with no sharp edges or moving parts.\\nRats like to play with just about everything, but avoid providing these types of toys or your rat could get itself caught and seriously hurt itself. Rats like to drag their tails behind them, so it could get caught in a battery-powered toy or on a sharp piece of metal. Opt for soft, rounded toys instead.\\nA rat wheel is one of the few exceptions to this. As long as the inside panel is completely covered, the rat shouldn't get its tail stuck in any moving parts. Buy a wheel specially made for rats, as mouse and hamster wheels are just too small for them to use.\\n2-2. Build a cardboard \\\"rat fort\\\" inside the play area.\\nCut out some rat-sized holes in a few small boxes, such as shoe boxes, and arrange them on top of each other randomly to create a tall structure for your rats to explore. Cut some holes in the tops of the boxes too so your rats can crawl around inside the fort. Arrange other accessories as you see fit, like small pieces of fabric to create curtains, or strips of cardboard to make ladders. \\nAdd treats wrapped in paper to the inside of the fort, which entices your rats into exploring for hidden treasure!\\n2-3. Add some PVC pipe or fabric tunnels for your rat to crawl through.\\nPVC pipe is perfect for creating elaborate mazes for your rats. Go to your local hardware store for a variety of at least 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide PVC pipes. Connect angled pipes, straight pipes, and pipe connectors together in random arrangements to create a tunnel maze. You can also make fabric tunnels by cutting the legs or sleeves of old clothes and stuffing them with toilet paper tubes. \\nPVC pipe is better for rats who like to chew a lot, whereas a fabric tunnel lets you keep an eye on where your rat is at in the maze.\\nSimply disconnect the PVC pipes from each other when you are ready to take down the rat play area — you can create a different maze pattern next time you let the rats out!\\n2-4. Create a pea fishing pond with a shallow dish and rocks.\\nFill a shallow dish, no more than 1 in (2.5 cm) deep, halfway with water. Place some rocks big enough to poke out of the water, and add some frozen peas. Your water-loving rats will love the chance to get wet and get a snack at the same time, while your water-fearing rats can safely stand on a rock or on the edge and grab peas that float by! \\nA paint tray meant for paint rollers is great for this, as it has a deep end and a shallow end. Your rats can stand on one side and fish, or go for a dip in the deeper end.\\n2-5. Add a small bin of trash for your rats to root around in.\\nFill a small garbage basket, one that you would keep under a desk, with crumpled paper, toilet paper rolls, extra pieces of cardboard, and other soft, safe materials for your rat to dig through. Rats love crunchy noises and collecting bits of trash for themselves, so use a variety of materials to entertain your rat.\\nRoot through your own trash and recycling bin for small objects that are safe for your rat if you want to conserve resources.\\nDon't add any discarded food or organic products, as if they have gone bad your rat might get sick. If you want to add food to the bin, add some rat snacks at the bottom before filling it with trash, as this entices your rats to dig in deeper.\\n2-6. Create a digging pit with a plastic container, dirt, and veggie sprouts.\\nFill a square plastic container halfway with regular, clean soil, then plant sprout seeds, wheat seeds, and grass seeds. Water the soil until its slightly saturated each day for about a week. When the sprouts start to show, let your rats dig around and munch on the greenery! \\nRats can eat just about anything, but avoid planting poppy seeds in the digging pit. It's been shown that poppies can kill rats.\\nIf you'd rather not wait for a week as the sprouts grow, simply bury some of your rats' favorite treats under the dirt and let them dig them out. Be sure to use clean soil, which you can buy at any gardening store.\\nRats also love chewing plants in general, so if you have plants that are dying and you plan to throw them out anyway, let your rats have some fun with them first!\\n3. Playing with Your Rats Safely\\n3-1. Let your rats out for free-range play time at least once a day.\\nRats need exercise and free roam time to prevent boredom and cabin fever. Rats that don't get let out tend to become territorial, aggressive towards people, and shy. Let your rats out at least once a day in their play area for at least an hour. If you have the time, let them out more often for longer, and don't forget to interact with them when they're out!\\nRats are extremely social animals and will feel cramped and bored if they stay in their cage with no interaction. Even if you have a few rats, the cage simply isn't enough space for them to roam and be curious.\\nHandle your rats with care, as mishandled rats can start to distrust people and may become aggressive. Never squeeze or throw your rats, only hold them in your palm or let them walk on your arms.\\n3-2. Keep an eye on the rats as they play to watch for escapes and fights.\\nRats are very quick and very nimble, so even if you think the cardboard barrier is tall enough, a rat can jump it if desperate enough. Rats also fight quite often, but break up fights that get particularly vicious. Never leave the room your rats are playing in or you won't be able to prevent them from escaping, fighting, or chewing things they shouldn't.\\nWhen play fighting, rats will squeak and tumble around, but when really fighting, their fur raises and they scream a lot louder and a lot more often, usually while wrestling quite viciously. Break up fights that seem too rough, but let your rats play if they aren't actively scratching or biting each other.\\nCheck your rats for scratches and bites if the fight got too intense. Keep the rats separated until they've both calmed down if one has been hurt. For particularly bad injuries, contact your vet for help.\\n3-3. Avoid smoking or vaping in the same room as the rats.\\nRats are incredibly prone to respiratory issues — in fact, it's the number one cause of rat deaths. Do not smoke or vape in the same room as your rats ever, and turn off oil diffusers and put out candles in the same room as well.\\nUse dust-free lining for the cage and clean it at least once a week to further prevent respiratory issues.\\n3-4. Clean up messes as soon as they occur, and wash the blanket or tarp between uses.\\nIf you see your rat pee or poop in the play area, wipe it or pick it up with a dry paper towel and discard it. Clean the underlying tarp or blanket between uses to minimize the risk of getting your rats sick or stinking up the play area. \\nIf the blanket or tarp doesn't smell or has no stains, it's usually fine to use at least one more time before a wash. Always wash and clean your tarp or blanket if your rats relieved themselves on it.\\n3-5. Wash and repair toys as the rats dirty and damage them.\\nRinse non-cardboard toys under water, wash fabric tunnels at least once a week, and replace cardboard boxes as they start to smell and get chewed up. This ensures that your rats' play area is fresh and clean every time, and reduces the chance of getting respiratory issues or diseases.\\nIf the barrier itself becomes damaged, try duct tape to cover holes first, but you may need to remove damaged panels and re-attach new ones if the holes are unfixable.\\nTips\\nStore all of your cleaned rat play supplies in a plastic tub for easy access later on. Keep the tub next to the cage for easy set up next time you want to bring your rats out!\\nDon't work too hard on making everything look pretty unless you really want to. Remember that your rats will probably tear it up anyway.\\nWarnings\\nWhen selecting garbage to reuse as rat toys, cut up anything they could get their feet or head stuck in.\\nAlways check your materials for sharp objects or hazardous parts.\\nNEVER use a run-around ball for a rat. It can permanently damage their spine!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Rats need a lot of exercise and space to roam. Unlike small rodents like mice and hamsters, they can't spend most of their life in a cage. Some owners let their rats run freely in the home, but if your home hasn't been rat proofed it's usually a bad idea. Making a safe rat play area, on the other hand, is the best option for entertaining your rats without damaging your property.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting up a Closed-Off Area\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Clear the area of anything that could harm your rats.\", \"描述\": \"While the play area will be surrounded by a barrier, bright lights, and low heater vents, make sure to keep electric wires out of the way. Electric wires can hurt your rat. Clear the area of chemicals, wires, sharp objects, and anything that emits smoke (like a candle). Choose a location away from foot traffic and other animals.\\nThe best place to keep a rat play area is in the corner of a living room or on a hardwood floor. Just keep the play area away from things you don't want chewed up and away from outlets.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place a blanket or tarp over a flat surface to protect it from damage.\", \"描述\": \"It's best to plan a play area on a raised surface, but you can set one up on the floor if you don't have space. Rats instinctively like to chew things up, so protect your floor or table with a plastic tarp or blanket before you add anything else. Plus, if they relieve themselves in the area, you just have to wash the tarp or blanket rather than break out the cleaning spray.\\nIf you put the playground on a table, you may not need to put up a fence around the play area, as rats won't jump off a height that will hurt them. Use your own judgement and knowledge of your rats' behaviour to decide whether to keep it free-range or build a barrier.\\nKeeping the play area on the floor allows you to keep a better eye on the rats, though they may chew your carpet if they get through the blanket or tarp.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut out and tape together flat, equal-sized cardboard panels.\", \"描述\": \"Take a few boxes, lay them flat, and cut away each side until you have at least a few dozen equal-sized pieces. Use duct tape to close holes and to flatten pieces that fold down so each panel is completely flattened. Line up the panels side by side and duct tape the edges to form a single long, flexible barrier.\\nIt's best to make your rat play area 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) wide in all directions, so make the barrier long enough to encapsulate this area when you set it up on the tarp.\\nFold the pieces one by one to form an accordion-like shape. This allows for easy storage of the cardboard barrier, which can be reused over and over again.\\nUse cardboard pieces at least 2 feet (0.61 m) tall to prevent your rats from jumping out. Use taller pieces if your rats are particularly agile.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the cardboard barrier around your chosen area in a circle.\", \"描述\": \"Making sure to keep the barrier on the blanket or tarp, surround the area with the cardboard in a circle shape until the two ends meet. Connect the two ends with binder clips, and check again for any holes the rats could sneak through. Tape up these holes and you're ready to start adding toys and playthings.\\nUsing binder clips to secure the ends together rather than tape makes this barrier reusable. Simply remove the binder clips when the rats are done, and fold the barrier into an accordion-like shape again.\\nIf your cardboard barrier is too large to stay within the confines of the tarp or blanket, cut away a panel at a time until it surrounds the area without any of the underlying surface peeking through.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding Toys and Accessories\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use only toys and accessories with no sharp edges or moving parts.\", \"描述\": \"Rats like to play with just about everything, but avoid providing these types of toys or your rat could get itself caught and seriously hurt itself. Rats like to drag their tails behind them, so it could get caught in a battery-powered toy or on a sharp piece of metal. Opt for soft, rounded toys instead.\\nA rat wheel is one of the few exceptions to this. As long as the inside panel is completely covered, the rat shouldn't get its tail stuck in any moving parts. Buy a wheel specially made for rats, as mouse and hamster wheels are just too small for them to use.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a cardboard \\\"rat fort\\\" inside the play area.\", \"描述\": \"Cut out some rat-sized holes in a few small boxes, such as shoe boxes, and arrange them on top of each other randomly to create a tall structure for your rats to explore. Cut some holes in the tops of the boxes too so your rats can crawl around inside the fort. Arrange other accessories as you see fit, like small pieces of fabric to create curtains, or strips of cardboard to make ladders. \\nAdd treats wrapped in paper to the inside of the fort, which entices your rats into exploring for hidden treasure!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add some PVC pipe or fabric tunnels for your rat to crawl through.\", \"描述\": \"PVC pipe is perfect for creating elaborate mazes for your rats. Go to your local hardware store for a variety of at least 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide PVC pipes. Connect angled pipes, straight pipes, and pipe connectors together in random arrangements to create a tunnel maze. You can also make fabric tunnels by cutting the legs or sleeves of old clothes and stuffing them with toilet paper tubes. \\nPVC pipe is better for rats who like to chew a lot, whereas a fabric tunnel lets you keep an eye on where your rat is at in the maze.\\nSimply disconnect the PVC pipes from each other when you are ready to take down the rat play area — you can create a different maze pattern next time you let the rats out!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a pea fishing pond with a shallow dish and rocks.\", \"描述\": \"Fill a shallow dish, no more than 1 in (2.5 cm) deep, halfway with water. Place some rocks big enough to poke out of the water, and add some frozen peas. Your water-loving rats will love the chance to get wet and get a snack at the same time, while your water-fearing rats can safely stand on a rock or on the edge and grab peas that float by! \\nA paint tray meant for paint rollers is great for this, as it has a deep end and a shallow end. Your rats can stand on one side and fish, or go for a dip in the deeper end.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add a small bin of trash for your rats to root around in.\", \"描述\": \"Fill a small garbage basket, one that you would keep under a desk, with crumpled paper, toilet paper rolls, extra pieces of cardboard, and other soft, safe materials for your rat to dig through. Rats love crunchy noises and collecting bits of trash for themselves, so use a variety of materials to entertain your rat.\\nRoot through your own trash and recycling bin for small objects that are safe for your rat if you want to conserve resources.\\nDon't add any discarded food or organic products, as if they have gone bad your rat might get sick. If you want to add food to the bin, add some rat snacks at the bottom before filling it with trash, as this entices your rats to dig in deeper.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create a digging pit with a plastic container, dirt, and veggie sprouts.\", \"描述\": \"Fill a square plastic container halfway with regular, clean soil, then plant sprout seeds, wheat seeds, and grass seeds. Water the soil until its slightly saturated each day for about a week. When the sprouts start to show, let your rats dig around and munch on the greenery! \\nRats can eat just about anything, but avoid planting poppy seeds in the digging pit. It's been shown that poppies can kill rats.\\nIf you'd rather not wait for a week as the sprouts grow, simply bury some of your rats' favorite treats under the dirt and let them dig them out. Be sure to use clean soil, which you can buy at any gardening store.\\nRats also love chewing plants in general, so if you have plants that are dying and you plan to throw them out anyway, let your rats have some fun with them first!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Playing with Your Rats Safely\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Let your rats out for free-range play time at least once a day.\", \"描述\": \"Rats need exercise and free roam time to prevent boredom and cabin fever. Rats that don't get let out tend to become territorial, aggressive towards people, and shy. Let your rats out at least once a day in their play area for at least an hour. If you have the time, let them out more often for longer, and don't forget to interact with them when they're out!\\nRats are extremely social animals and will feel cramped and bored if they stay in their cage with no interaction. Even if you have a few rats, the cage simply isn't enough space for them to roam and be curious.\\nHandle your rats with care, as mishandled rats can start to distrust people and may become aggressive. Never squeeze or throw your rats, only hold them in your palm or let them walk on your arms.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep an eye on the rats as they play to watch for escapes and fights.\", \"描述\": \"Rats are very quick and very nimble, so even if you think the cardboard barrier is tall enough, a rat can jump it if desperate enough. Rats also fight quite often, but break up fights that get particularly vicious. Never leave the room your rats are playing in or you won't be able to prevent them from escaping, fighting, or chewing things they shouldn't.\\nWhen play fighting, rats will squeak and tumble around, but when really fighting, their fur raises and they scream a lot louder and a lot more often, usually while wrestling quite viciously. Break up fights that seem too rough, but let your rats play if they aren't actively scratching or biting each other.\\nCheck your rats for scratches and bites if the fight got too intense. Keep the rats separated until they've both calmed down if one has been hurt. For particularly bad injuries, contact your vet for help.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Avoid smoking or vaping in the same room as the rats.\", \"描述\": \"Rats are incredibly prone to respiratory issues — in fact, it's the number one cause of rat deaths. Do not smoke or vape in the same room as your rats ever, and turn off oil diffusers and put out candles in the same room as well.\\nUse dust-free lining for the cage and clean it at least once a week to further prevent respiratory issues.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Clean up messes as soon as they occur, and wash the blanket or tarp between uses.\", \"描述\": \"If you see your rat pee or poop in the play area, wipe it or pick it up with a dry paper towel and discard it. Clean the underlying tarp or blanket between uses to minimize the risk of getting your rats sick or stinking up the play area. \\nIf the blanket or tarp doesn't smell or has no stains, it's usually fine to use at least one more time before a wash. Always wash and clean your tarp or blanket if your rats relieved themselves on it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wash and repair toys as the rats dirty and damage them.\", \"描述\": \"Rinse non-cardboard toys under water, wash fabric tunnels at least once a week, and replace cardboard boxes as they start to smell and get chewed up. This ensures that your rats' play area is fresh and clean every time, and reduces the chance of getting respiratory issues or diseases.\\nIf the barrier itself becomes damaged, try duct tape to cover holes first, but you may need to remove damaged panels and re-attach new ones if the holes are unfixable.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Store all of your cleaned rat play supplies in a plastic tub for easy access later on. Keep the tub next to the cage for easy set up next time you want to bring your rats out!\\n\", \"Don't work too hard on making everything look pretty unless you really want to. Remember that your rats will probably tear it up anyway.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"When selecting garbage to reuse as rat toys, cut up anything they could get their feet or head stuck in.\\n\", \"Always check your materials for sharp objects or hazardous parts.\\n\", \"NEVER use a run-around ball for a rat. It can permanently damage their spine!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.