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How to Build a Safe Room
|
1. Learning About Safe Room Construction
1-1. Plan for safety.
Before building your safe room, you must take several factors into account to ensure that the safe room serves its purpose of protecting its occupants, and does not pose a hazard.
It is crucial that you start by reading the government manual available at https://www.fema.gov/pdf/plan/prevent/rms/453/fema453.pdf. This manual will provide design considerations, potential risks, structural design criteria, information about air filtration, and other considerations that will keep you and your family safe. If you do not read this manual, you risk designing a safe room that could put your family at risk through faulty design or construction. However, the details provided by FEMA in their P-320 drawing series are, at least for wood framed construction, only a starting point.
1-2. Learn about the particulars.
The safe room's construction and design must be reinforced and built to withstand storms and threats of attack; be sure you understand these factors as you plan and build the safe room. There are 5 levels of tornadoes and 5 levels of hurricanes, for instance, each demanding different levels of protection. If you live in an area that has never experienced an EF-3 tornado, there is questionable need to have an EF-4 rated shelter, for instance.
The room must be constructed out of material that can withstand high winds as well as heavy debris that may be flying around, for instance in a tornado situation. Concrete walls are a great choice, but if you want to adapt an existing wooden-walled room, you can reinforce the insides of the walls with steel sheathing.
The room should not have windows, but if it does, they should be very small (too small for a burglar to crawl through) and constructed of Plexiglass to prevent shattering.
The room must be anchored securely to ensure that it does not lift or overturn in high winds or a tornado.
You will need to design the walls, door and ceiling to be able to stand up to high wind pressure, as well as resist penetration or crushing from flying or falling debris. Note that FEMA's P-320 design guidelines make no mention of the varying storm strengths and thus appear to be designed to protect against an EF-5 tornado (which has twice the wind speed of an EF-2). That does not mean, however, that protection against an EF-2 tornado need be only half as strong. A structural engineer will be needed to make those decisions.
You need to make sure that the spaces where the room is connected, like wall and ceiling joints, are designed to withstand wind. Additionally, the structure should be independent of surrounding rooms in your home or business, so that any damage done to the home will not affect the safe room.
A below-ground safe room must be able to withstand flooding or water accumulation in the event of heavy rains.
The door should open inwards, in the event that a storm piles debris outside the door. It should also be constructed of heavy material that cannot be kicked in by an intruder or blown in by a storm. Solid wood or metal doors are a good option; consider using an exterior heavy wooden door for an interior safe room, and reinforce the sides with metal for added security.
1-3. Know the best place to build or create a safe room.
The safest place for a safe room is underground; a first-floor interior room is also a good location.
If you have a basement, this is the most ideal location for a safe room if you are concerned about tornadoes or other storms with high winds. It is the most secure location, away from exterior walls.
The garage is also a great option, as it usually has quite a bit of space for construction and, provided you keep the garage tidy, less risk of falling debris during a storm.
2. Planning Your Safe Room
2-1. Plan the type of safe room you need.
Depending on the number of people you need to accommodate, the available space you have to work in, and your budget, your choices might vary. The goal is to be safe; but some safe rooms may be more convenient or attractive than others.
A yard bunker safe room is designed to be dug into and installed underground. One outside door opens to above ground, and you can purchase units to fit any number of people. Steel or concrete is your best choice because fiberglass shelters run the risk of cracking.
Above-ground shelters can be attached to the outside of a home, or they can be situated within the interior. Some can be designed so that they are indiscernible to the untrained eye, and other rooms are large enough to accommodate many people (for example, at a school or church). These can be built or purchased prefabricated, which is slightly pricier but will ensure that they are built to code.
If you are in the construction phase of a new home or business, the safe room can be built into the plans as an additional room in the building.
2-2. Obtain or create a construction plan.
Before beginning construction, its important to create accurate plans that are designed to government specifications. This will ensure that your safe room can live up to its name.
You can obtain free safe room construction plans and specifics at https://www.fema.gov/media-library/assets/documents/2009. You can use these to design your own safe room or work with a contractor on its construction.
Purchase code guidelines to help you plan to build your storm safe room to code. These guidelines are written by the International Code Council, which sets code standards worldwide.
2-3. Gather your supplies and begin construction.
Depending on the plan you follow, you will need various supplies potentially including concrete, steel bars, a heavy wooden door, and deadbolts.
Consider using anchors that are power driven around the unit's wall perimeter to avoid horizontal movement and uplift in relation to the concrete floor slab. These are available for masonry as well as wood framed construction.
To avoid vertical movement of the roof assembly, look into Simpson Strong Tie anchors.
For wood framed structures, be sure that your ceiling and walls are securely anchored to the bottom plate. FEMA's P-320 design guidelines should be consulted but due to their incompleteness and errors with respect to metal ties, be cautious.
Wood framed structures will use plywood as protection against flying debris and on each side of the stud framing to strengthen the wall. The layers and thicknesses will depend on what amount of protection you desire. A layer of sheet steel or kevlar can be added, again according to the amount of protection you need, placing any inside protection on the room side and any outside protection under the outside plywood. Or you can fill between the studs with masonry units.
Install a door with a 2-inch (5 cm) dead bolt lock.
3. Retrofitting an Existing Room into a Safe Room
3-1. Select your room to retrofit.
Retrofitting an existing room in your home or business is the cheapest and simplest way to protect your loved ones from storms or intruders. While building or installing a prefabricated safe room can cost between $2500-$6000, you can retrofit an existing room for a thousand or less.
Choose a room that is in the interior of the house with no windows or skylight, and no walls shared with the outdoors A large walk-in closet works well.
3-2. Replace the door.
A safe room needs a door that can withstand high winds or being kicked in by an intruder, and should ideally open inwards rather than outwards in case debris is stacked outside the room during a storm.
Remove the existing door and doorjamb. Replace the doorjamb with a steel one, and reinforce the surrounding wood with steel angle iron (which will prevent the door from being kicked or blown in).
Replace the door with a heavy, solid wood door (such as one sold as an exterior front door for a home) or with a heavy steel door. Mount it so that it opens inwards rather than out.
3-3. Install locks.
You can choose if you want to use a traditional deadbolt or a keyless deadbolt. The keyless deadbolt has the advantage that you don't have to find the key in case of an emergency, but can be dangerous if you have small children in your household who may lock themselves inside.
Before installing the new locks and doorknob, reinforce the wood around them by installing steel or brass strike plates, which you can purchase at most hardware stores.
Install the locks so that the door locks from the inside. If it's a traditional deadbolt, be sure to make a copy of the key and keep the keys in two separate but easily accessible locations, where you can find them immediately in case of emergency.
3-4. Reinforce the walls and ceiling.
If you are adding the safe room to new construction, you can reinforce the walls and ceiling with concrete, chicken wire, or steel sheeting before adding dry wall and paint to the walls. If not, you will need to tear out the existing drywall to reinforce the walls.
The most cost-effective way to reinforce the walls is by pouring concrete into the cavity between the 2x4s in the walls. Then, screw plywood or 1-1/8″ oriented strand board to the 2x4s on either side. You can then cover this with drywall and paint.
You can also screw steel sheeting to the 2x4s and cover with drywall and paint. You will need to use steel sheeting or chicken wire in the ceiling, which can be done from the attic if you're in a one-story home, or applied directly to the ceiling (less attractive, but chances are good no one will be looking at the ceiling of your closet safe room).
3-5. Contact a contractor for help.
If you want to create a more complicated or stand-alone structure, its important that it is up to code. If you don't have a lot of experience with construction, you can contact a contractor or local storm shelter company for help planning and installing your project.
Ask around for recommendations of local contractors. Ask family or friends who have recently remodeled or done construction work, or contact the National Association of the Remodeling Industry or a local building inspector, who will be able to point you in the right direction.
4. Stocking Your Safe Room
4-1. Consider luxury details.
A basic safe room will keep your family safe, but if you want to add additional features for a more high-end safe room (particularly for a very expensive home that is at risk of burglary), you have several options:
A camera monitoring system. A high end security system, installed by professionals, can allow you to monitor your home from the inside of the safe room in the event of a home invasion.
A keypad entry. A keypad can allow you to lock the door to the safe room instantly in the event of a home invasion, instead of wasting precious time locking deadbolts.
4-2. Stock your safe room with food and water.
In the event of a storm or terrorist attack, you may have to stay in the safe room longer than expected. It’s important to be prepared with essentials for your family, as well as any unexpected guests who may have to share your safe space.
Start with a minimum of three gallons of water per person that fits in the occupancy of the room. Its easy to see how supplies can quickly fill up the safe room space: if you have a safe room that accommodates five people, you'll need fifteen gallons of water.
Store nonperishable food items in the safe room, such as cans of beans or ready-to-eat soup (don't forget a can opener), boxes of cookies or crackers, granola or protein bars, and cans of infant formula or powdered milk.
While it's a good idea to plan for a three day stay in the shelter, if you have enough space it's a good idea to store more. In the off chance that a hurricane or tornado could wipe out the neighborhood, you might need more supplies to help support your neighbors until help arrives.
Remember to periodically rotate your supplies so that nothing expires or goes rancid (even nonperishable foods expire eventually).
4-3. Consider other supplies you might need.
In the event of a storm, you may need other supplies to support you and your family until the storm is over or until help arrives.
You will need a battery operated radio, at least one large flashlight, and several extra batteries.
Consider a change of clothing and blankets for each member of your family.
Be sure to pack a well-stocked first aid kit, complete with any medications that your family members take regularly as well as bandages, antibiotic ointment, small scissors, gauze wrap, and ibuprofen.
Stock the safe room with several rolls of duct tape and plastic sheeting, for sealing doors and covering ventilation in the event of nuclear or chemical warfare.
Tips
Check out safe room funding opportunities at https://www.fema.gov/emergency-managers/risk-management/safe-rooms/funding if you are building a community safe room.
Warnings
Do not attempt to build your own safe room without thoroughly educating yourself on the FEMA codes and guidelines. There are many specifics contained in the building codes that you need to know before you begin construction.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:01",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Learning About Safe Room Construction\\n1-1. Plan for safety.\\nBefore building your safe room, you must take several factors into account to ensure that the safe room serves its purpose of protecting its occupants, and does not pose a hazard.\\nIt is crucial that you start by reading the government manual available at https://www.fema.gov/pdf/plan/prevent/rms/453/fema453.pdf. This manual will provide design considerations, potential risks, structural design criteria, information about air filtration, and other considerations that will keep you and your family safe. If you do not read this manual, you risk designing a safe room that could put your family at risk through faulty design or construction. However, the details provided by FEMA in their P-320 drawing series are, at least for wood framed construction, only a starting point.\\n1-2. Learn about the particulars.\\nThe safe room's construction and design must be reinforced and built to withstand storms and threats of attack; be sure you understand these factors as you plan and build the safe room. There are 5 levels of tornadoes and 5 levels of hurricanes, for instance, each demanding different levels of protection. If you live in an area that has never experienced an EF-3 tornado, there is questionable need to have an EF-4 rated shelter, for instance.\\nThe room must be constructed out of material that can withstand high winds as well as heavy debris that may be flying around, for instance in a tornado situation. Concrete walls are a great choice, but if you want to adapt an existing wooden-walled room, you can reinforce the insides of the walls with steel sheathing.\\nThe room should not have windows, but if it does, they should be very small (too small for a burglar to crawl through) and constructed of Plexiglass to prevent shattering.\\nThe room must be anchored securely to ensure that it does not lift or overturn in high winds or a tornado.\\nYou will need to design the walls, door and ceiling to be able to stand up to high wind pressure, as well as resist penetration or crushing from flying or falling debris. Note that FEMA's P-320 design guidelines make no mention of the varying storm strengths and thus appear to be designed to protect against an EF-5 tornado (which has twice the wind speed of an EF-2). That does not mean, however, that protection against an EF-2 tornado need be only half as strong. A structural engineer will be needed to make those decisions.\\nYou need to make sure that the spaces where the room is connected, like wall and ceiling joints, are designed to withstand wind. Additionally, the structure should be independent of surrounding rooms in your home or business, so that any damage done to the home will not affect the safe room.\\nA below-ground safe room must be able to withstand flooding or water accumulation in the event of heavy rains.\\nThe door should open inwards, in the event that a storm piles debris outside the door. It should also be constructed of heavy material that cannot be kicked in by an intruder or blown in by a storm. Solid wood or metal doors are a good option; consider using an exterior heavy wooden door for an interior safe room, and reinforce the sides with metal for added security.\\n1-3. Know the best place to build or create a safe room.\\nThe safest place for a safe room is underground; a first-floor interior room is also a good location.\\nIf you have a basement, this is the most ideal location for a safe room if you are concerned about tornadoes or other storms with high winds. It is the most secure location, away from exterior walls.\\nThe garage is also a great option, as it usually has quite a bit of space for construction and, provided you keep the garage tidy, less risk of falling debris during a storm.\\n2. Planning Your Safe Room\\n2-1. Plan the type of safe room you need.\\nDepending on the number of people you need to accommodate, the available space you have to work in, and your budget, your choices might vary. The goal is to be safe; but some safe rooms may be more convenient or attractive than others.\\nA yard bunker safe room is designed to be dug into and installed underground. One outside door opens to above ground, and you can purchase units to fit any number of people. Steel or concrete is your best choice because fiberglass shelters run the risk of cracking.\\nAbove-ground shelters can be attached to the outside of a home, or they can be situated within the interior. Some can be designed so that they are indiscernible to the untrained eye, and other rooms are large enough to accommodate many people (for example, at a school or church). These can be built or purchased prefabricated, which is slightly pricier but will ensure that they are built to code.\\nIf you are in the construction phase of a new home or business, the safe room can be built into the plans as an additional room in the building.\\n2-2. Obtain or create a construction plan.\\nBefore beginning construction, its important to create accurate plans that are designed to government specifications. This will ensure that your safe room can live up to its name.\\nYou can obtain free safe room construction plans and specifics at https://www.fema.gov/media-library/assets/documents/2009. You can use these to design your own safe room or work with a contractor on its construction.\\nPurchase code guidelines to help you plan to build your storm safe room to code. These guidelines are written by the International Code Council, which sets code standards worldwide.\\n2-3. Gather your supplies and begin construction.\\nDepending on the plan you follow, you will need various supplies potentially including concrete, steel bars, a heavy wooden door, and deadbolts.\\nConsider using anchors that are power driven around the unit's wall perimeter to avoid horizontal movement and uplift in relation to the concrete floor slab. These are available for masonry as well as wood framed construction.\\nTo avoid vertical movement of the roof assembly, look into Simpson Strong Tie anchors.\\nFor wood framed structures, be sure that your ceiling and walls are securely anchored to the bottom plate. FEMA's P-320 design guidelines should be consulted but due to their incompleteness and errors with respect to metal ties, be cautious.\\nWood framed structures will use plywood as protection against flying debris and on each side of the stud framing to strengthen the wall. The layers and thicknesses will depend on what amount of protection you desire. A layer of sheet steel or kevlar can be added, again according to the amount of protection you need, placing any inside protection on the room side and any outside protection under the outside plywood. Or you can fill between the studs with masonry units.\\nInstall a door with a 2-inch (5 cm) dead bolt lock.\\n3. Retrofitting an Existing Room into a Safe Room\\n3-1. Select your room to retrofit.\\nRetrofitting an existing room in your home or business is the cheapest and simplest way to protect your loved ones from storms or intruders. While building or installing a prefabricated safe room can cost between $2500-$6000, you can retrofit an existing room for a thousand or less.\\nChoose a room that is in the interior of the house with no windows or skylight, and no walls shared with the outdoors A large walk-in closet works well.\\n3-2. Replace the door.\\nA safe room needs a door that can withstand high winds or being kicked in by an intruder, and should ideally open inwards rather than outwards in case debris is stacked outside the room during a storm.\\nRemove the existing door and doorjamb. Replace the doorjamb with a steel one, and reinforce the surrounding wood with steel angle iron (which will prevent the door from being kicked or blown in).\\nReplace the door with a heavy, solid wood door (such as one sold as an exterior front door for a home) or with a heavy steel door. Mount it so that it opens inwards rather than out.\\n3-3. Install locks.\\nYou can choose if you want to use a traditional deadbolt or a keyless deadbolt. The keyless deadbolt has the advantage that you don't have to find the key in case of an emergency, but can be dangerous if you have small children in your household who may lock themselves inside.\\nBefore installing the new locks and doorknob, reinforce the wood around them by installing steel or brass strike plates, which you can purchase at most hardware stores.\\nInstall the locks so that the door locks from the inside. If it's a traditional deadbolt, be sure to make a copy of the key and keep the keys in two separate but easily accessible locations, where you can find them immediately in case of emergency.\\n3-4. Reinforce the walls and ceiling.\\nIf you are adding the safe room to new construction, you can reinforce the walls and ceiling with concrete, chicken wire, or steel sheeting before adding dry wall and paint to the walls. If not, you will need to tear out the existing drywall to reinforce the walls.\\nThe most cost-effective way to reinforce the walls is by pouring concrete into the cavity between the 2x4s in the walls. Then, screw plywood or 1-1/8″ oriented strand board to the 2x4s on either side. You can then cover this with drywall and paint.\\nYou can also screw steel sheeting to the 2x4s and cover with drywall and paint. You will need to use steel sheeting or chicken wire in the ceiling, which can be done from the attic if you're in a one-story home, or applied directly to the ceiling (less attractive, but chances are good no one will be looking at the ceiling of your closet safe room).\\n3-5. Contact a contractor for help.\\nIf you want to create a more complicated or stand-alone structure, its important that it is up to code. If you don't have a lot of experience with construction, you can contact a contractor or local storm shelter company for help planning and installing your project.\\nAsk around for recommendations of local contractors. Ask family or friends who have recently remodeled or done construction work, or contact the National Association of the Remodeling Industry or a local building inspector, who will be able to point you in the right direction.\\n4. Stocking Your Safe Room\\n4-1. Consider luxury details.\\nA basic safe room will keep your family safe, but if you want to add additional features for a more high-end safe room (particularly for a very expensive home that is at risk of burglary), you have several options:\\nA camera monitoring system. A high end security system, installed by professionals, can allow you to monitor your home from the inside of the safe room in the event of a home invasion.\\nA keypad entry. A keypad can allow you to lock the door to the safe room instantly in the event of a home invasion, instead of wasting precious time locking deadbolts.\\n4-2. Stock your safe room with food and water.\\nIn the event of a storm or terrorist attack, you may have to stay in the safe room longer than expected. It’s important to be prepared with essentials for your family, as well as any unexpected guests who may have to share your safe space.\\nStart with a minimum of three gallons of water per person that fits in the occupancy of the room. Its easy to see how supplies can quickly fill up the safe room space: if you have a safe room that accommodates five people, you'll need fifteen gallons of water.\\nStore nonperishable food items in the safe room, such as cans of beans or ready-to-eat soup (don't forget a can opener), boxes of cookies or crackers, granola or protein bars, and cans of infant formula or powdered milk.\\nWhile it's a good idea to plan for a three day stay in the shelter, if you have enough space it's a good idea to store more. In the off chance that a hurricane or tornado could wipe out the neighborhood, you might need more supplies to help support your neighbors until help arrives.\\nRemember to periodically rotate your supplies so that nothing expires or goes rancid (even nonperishable foods expire eventually).\\n4-3. Consider other supplies you might need.\\nIn the event of a storm, you may need other supplies to support you and your family until the storm is over or until help arrives.\\nYou will need a battery operated radio, at least one large flashlight, and several extra batteries.\\nConsider a change of clothing and blankets for each member of your family.\\nBe sure to pack a well-stocked first aid kit, complete with any medications that your family members take regularly as well as bandages, antibiotic ointment, small scissors, gauze wrap, and ibuprofen.\\nStock the safe room with several rolls of duct tape and plastic sheeting, for sealing doors and covering ventilation in the event of nuclear or chemical warfare.\\nTips\\nCheck out safe room funding opportunities at https://www.fema.gov/emergency-managers/risk-management/safe-rooms/funding if you are building a community safe room.\\nWarnings\\nDo not attempt to build your own safe room without thoroughly educating yourself on the FEMA codes and guidelines. There are many specifics contained in the building codes that you need to know before you begin construction.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Your safety and the safety of your family and friends is the top priority. If you live in a part of the country that has extreme weather such as windstorms, tornadoes or hurricanes, it’s important to have an area in your home or business that can keep you safe during times of emergency. It’s also important to plan for safety in the event of a home invasion or robbery. A safe room is a reinforced, secure, and well-stocked area that can keep you safe in times of emergencies. If you are skilled at construction, you can build a safe room that will help to ensure that your family will be safe and protected no matter what the future brings.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Learning About Safe Room Construction\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan for safety.\", \"描述\": \"Before building your safe room, you must take several factors into account to ensure that the safe room serves its purpose of protecting its occupants, and does not pose a hazard.\\nIt is crucial that you start by reading the government manual available at https://www.fema.gov/pdf/plan/prevent/rms/453/fema453.pdf. This manual will provide design considerations, potential risks, structural design criteria, information about air filtration, and other considerations that will keep you and your family safe. If you do not read this manual, you risk designing a safe room that could put your family at risk through faulty design or construction. However, the details provided by FEMA in their P-320 drawing series are, at least for wood framed construction, only a starting point.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Learn about the particulars.\", \"描述\": \"The safe room's construction and design must be reinforced and built to withstand storms and threats of attack; be sure you understand these factors as you plan and build the safe room. There are 5 levels of tornadoes and 5 levels of hurricanes, for instance, each demanding different levels of protection. If you live in an area that has never experienced an EF-3 tornado, there is questionable need to have an EF-4 rated shelter, for instance.\\nThe room must be constructed out of material that can withstand high winds as well as heavy debris that may be flying around, for instance in a tornado situation. Concrete walls are a great choice, but if you want to adapt an existing wooden-walled room, you can reinforce the insides of the walls with steel sheathing.\\nThe room should not have windows, but if it does, they should be very small (too small for a burglar to crawl through) and constructed of Plexiglass to prevent shattering.\\nThe room must be anchored securely to ensure that it does not lift or overturn in high winds or a tornado.\\nYou will need to design the walls, door and ceiling to be able to stand up to high wind pressure, as well as resist penetration or crushing from flying or falling debris. Note that FEMA's P-320 design guidelines make no mention of the varying storm strengths and thus appear to be designed to protect against an EF-5 tornado (which has twice the wind speed of an EF-2). That does not mean, however, that protection against an EF-2 tornado need be only half as strong. A structural engineer will be needed to make those decisions.\\nYou need to make sure that the spaces where the room is connected, like wall and ceiling joints, are designed to withstand wind. Additionally, the structure should be independent of surrounding rooms in your home or business, so that any damage done to the home will not affect the safe room.\\nA below-ground safe room must be able to withstand flooding or water accumulation in the event of heavy rains.\\nThe door should open inwards, in the event that a storm piles debris outside the door. It should also be constructed of heavy material that cannot be kicked in by an intruder or blown in by a storm. Solid wood or metal doors are a good option; consider using an exterior heavy wooden door for an interior safe room, and reinforce the sides with metal for added security.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Know the best place to build or create a safe room.\", \"描述\": \"The safest place for a safe room is underground; a first-floor interior room is also a good location.\\nIf you have a basement, this is the most ideal location for a safe room if you are concerned about tornadoes or other storms with high winds. It is the most secure location, away from exterior walls.\\nThe garage is also a great option, as it usually has quite a bit of space for construction and, provided you keep the garage tidy, less risk of falling debris during a storm.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Safe Room\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan the type of safe room you need.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the number of people you need to accommodate, the available space you have to work in, and your budget, your choices might vary. The goal is to be safe; but some safe rooms may be more convenient or attractive than others.\\nA yard bunker safe room is designed to be dug into and installed underground. One outside door opens to above ground, and you can purchase units to fit any number of people. Steel or concrete is your best choice because fiberglass shelters run the risk of cracking.\\nAbove-ground shelters can be attached to the outside of a home, or they can be situated within the interior. Some can be designed so that they are indiscernible to the untrained eye, and other rooms are large enough to accommodate many people (for example, at a school or church). These can be built or purchased prefabricated, which is slightly pricier but will ensure that they are built to code.\\nIf you are in the construction phase of a new home or business, the safe room can be built into the plans as an additional room in the building.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Obtain or create a construction plan.\", \"描述\": \"Before beginning construction, its important to create accurate plans that are designed to government specifications. This will ensure that your safe room can live up to its name.\\nYou can obtain free safe room construction plans and specifics at https://www.fema.gov/media-library/assets/documents/2009. You can use these to design your own safe room or work with a contractor on its construction.\\nPurchase code guidelines to help you plan to build your storm safe room to code. These guidelines are written by the International Code Council, which sets code standards worldwide.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies and begin construction.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the plan you follow, you will need various supplies potentially including concrete, steel bars, a heavy wooden door, and deadbolts.\\nConsider using anchors that are power driven around the unit's wall perimeter to avoid horizontal movement and uplift in relation to the concrete floor slab. These are available for masonry as well as wood framed construction.\\nTo avoid vertical movement of the roof assembly, look into Simpson Strong Tie anchors.\\nFor wood framed structures, be sure that your ceiling and walls are securely anchored to the bottom plate. FEMA's P-320 design guidelines should be consulted but due to their incompleteness and errors with respect to metal ties, be cautious.\\nWood framed structures will use plywood as protection against flying debris and on each side of the stud framing to strengthen the wall. The layers and thicknesses will depend on what amount of protection you desire. A layer of sheet steel or kevlar can be added, again according to the amount of protection you need, placing any inside protection on the room side and any outside protection under the outside plywood. Or you can fill between the studs with masonry units.\\nInstall a door with a 2-inch (5 cm) dead bolt lock.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Retrofitting an Existing Room into a Safe Room\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select your room to retrofit.\", \"描述\": \"Retrofitting an existing room in your home or business is the cheapest and simplest way to protect your loved ones from storms or intruders. While building or installing a prefabricated safe room can cost between $2500-$6000, you can retrofit an existing room for a thousand or less.\\nChoose a room that is in the interior of the house with no windows or skylight, and no walls shared with the outdoors A large walk-in closet works well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Replace the door.\", \"描述\": \"A safe room needs a door that can withstand high winds or being kicked in by an intruder, and should ideally open inwards rather than outwards in case debris is stacked outside the room during a storm.\\nRemove the existing door and doorjamb. Replace the doorjamb with a steel one, and reinforce the surrounding wood with steel angle iron (which will prevent the door from being kicked or blown in).\\nReplace the door with a heavy, solid wood door (such as one sold as an exterior front door for a home) or with a heavy steel door. Mount it so that it opens inwards rather than out.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install locks.\", \"描述\": \"You can choose if you want to use a traditional deadbolt or a keyless deadbolt. The keyless deadbolt has the advantage that you don't have to find the key in case of an emergency, but can be dangerous if you have small children in your household who may lock themselves inside.\\nBefore installing the new locks and doorknob, reinforce the wood around them by installing steel or brass strike plates, which you can purchase at most hardware stores.\\nInstall the locks so that the door locks from the inside. If it's a traditional deadbolt, be sure to make a copy of the key and keep the keys in two separate but easily accessible locations, where you can find them immediately in case of emergency.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Reinforce the walls and ceiling.\", \"描述\": \"If you are adding the safe room to new construction, you can reinforce the walls and ceiling with concrete, chicken wire, or steel sheeting before adding dry wall and paint to the walls. If not, you will need to tear out the existing drywall to reinforce the walls.\\nThe most cost-effective way to reinforce the walls is by pouring concrete into the cavity between the 2x4s in the walls. Then, screw plywood or 1-1/8″ oriented strand board to the 2x4s on either side. You can then cover this with drywall and paint.\\nYou can also screw steel sheeting to the 2x4s and cover with drywall and paint. You will need to use steel sheeting or chicken wire in the ceiling, which can be done from the attic if you're in a one-story home, or applied directly to the ceiling (less attractive, but chances are good no one will be looking at the ceiling of your closet safe room).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Contact a contractor for help.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to create a more complicated or stand-alone structure, its important that it is up to code. If you don't have a lot of experience with construction, you can contact a contractor or local storm shelter company for help planning and installing your project.\\nAsk around for recommendations of local contractors. Ask family or friends who have recently remodeled or done construction work, or contact the National Association of the Remodeling Industry or a local building inspector, who will be able to point you in the right direction.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stocking Your Safe Room\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider luxury details.\", \"描述\": \"A basic safe room will keep your family safe, but if you want to add additional features for a more high-end safe room (particularly for a very expensive home that is at risk of burglary), you have several options:\\nA camera monitoring system. A high end security system, installed by professionals, can allow you to monitor your home from the inside of the safe room in the event of a home invasion.\\nA keypad entry. A keypad can allow you to lock the door to the safe room instantly in the event of a home invasion, instead of wasting precious time locking deadbolts.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Stock your safe room with food and water.\", \"描述\": \"In the event of a storm or terrorist attack, you may have to stay in the safe room longer than expected. It’s important to be prepared with essentials for your family, as well as any unexpected guests who may have to share your safe space.\\nStart with a minimum of three gallons of water per person that fits in the occupancy of the room. Its easy to see how supplies can quickly fill up the safe room space: if you have a safe room that accommodates five people, you'll need fifteen gallons of water.\\nStore nonperishable food items in the safe room, such as cans of beans or ready-to-eat soup (don't forget a can opener), boxes of cookies or crackers, granola or protein bars, and cans of infant formula or powdered milk.\\nWhile it's a good idea to plan for a three day stay in the shelter, if you have enough space it's a good idea to store more. In the off chance that a hurricane or tornado could wipe out the neighborhood, you might need more supplies to help support your neighbors until help arrives.\\nRemember to periodically rotate your supplies so that nothing expires or goes rancid (even nonperishable foods expire eventually).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider other supplies you might need.\", \"描述\": \"In the event of a storm, you may need other supplies to support you and your family until the storm is over or until help arrives.\\nYou will need a battery operated radio, at least one large flashlight, and several extra batteries.\\nConsider a change of clothing and blankets for each member of your family.\\nBe sure to pack a well-stocked first aid kit, complete with any medications that your family members take regularly as well as bandages, antibiotic ointment, small scissors, gauze wrap, and ibuprofen.\\nStock the safe room with several rolls of duct tape and plastic sheeting, for sealing doors and covering ventilation in the event of nuclear or chemical warfare.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Check out safe room funding opportunities at https://www.fema.gov/emergency-managers/risk-management/safe-rooms/funding if you are building a community safe room.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not attempt to build your own safe room without thoroughly educating yourself on the FEMA codes and guidelines. There are many specifics contained in the building codes that you need to know before you begin construction.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,520 |
How to Build a Salmon Ladder
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1. Installing the Posts
1-1. Gather your materials.
The Salmon Ladder has 2 main components—2 wooden posts and a series of angled rungs which you’ll use to catch and stabilize the bar. For this project, a pair of sturdy 12’-15’ (3.7-4.6 m) 4x4 posts will serve as the vertical supports, with a 2x6 across the top to connect the frame. The rungs themselves will be fashioned from a 2x4 sawed to the appropriate size and shape.
Depending on the spacing between the rungs, two 8 foot (2.4 m) (2.4 m) long 2x4's may be needed instead of one 12 foot (3.7 m) 2x4.
Use only high-quality pressure-treated lumber. Since it’s made to withstand heavier loads, you can be sure that it will hold up under hours and hours of intense training.
In addition to the raw lumber, you’ll also need a hammer or electric drill, 3” (7.6 cm) nails or heavy-duty wood screws, a handsaw, a bag of quickset concrete, and a tape measure.
1-2. Dig holes to set the support beams.
Use a post hole digger to clear the soil by hand quickly and ensure that the holes are uniform. Each hole should be approximately 4 feet (1.2 m) deep and 1 foot (0.30 m) across. Space them roughly 42” (1 m) apart in order to leave a comfortable amount of distance to maneuver between the posts.
A flat, stable patch of ground with plenty of room to move around will make the best site for your Salmon Ladder.
It's also a good idea to position your Salmon Ladder where you can attach other supports. This could mean resting it against a tree or adding additional supports at the top.
The length of the 4x4 posts will correspond to the total height of the obstacle. For a standard 11’-12’ (3.4-3.7 m) ladder, you’ll need to have your posts cut to 15’-17’ (4.6-5 m).
1-3. Insert the posts into the holes.
Slide the end of the first post into one of the openings you just made and stand it upright carefully. Then, do the same with the second post. Once you've set the supports, double check that they're straight, with corners and faces perfectly aligned.
Recruit one or -- even better -- a few assistants to help you position and hold the heavy 4x4s.
Use a level to make sure the posts are sitting evenly, and stretch a separate board across the two posts to test whether it sits flush.
If you live in an area that receives a lot of precipitation, consider adding about 3” (7.6 cm) of gravel, sand, or aggregate to the holes before setting the posts to promote drainage. Keeping the wood dry will prevent it from rotting or splitting over time.
1-4. Pour concrete to stabilize the posts.
While a helper holds each post steady, shake half a bag of quickset concrete into each hole. Mix it to a consistency similar to cake batter by adding water gradually. Make sure the concrete is evenly distributed around the supports at the bottom of the holes. It should begin to set within 15-20 minutes, depending on the weather.
Consider setting the posts on one day, then returning to complete construction the next to give the concrete plenty of time to dry.
Avoid putting any weight on the Salmon Ladder until the concrete has fully hardened.
You can find a blueprint for a Salmon Ladder here: http://www.ninjawarriorblueprints.com/salmon-ladder-plans/.
2. Assembling the Frame
2-1. Assemble the ladder before you place the posts in the holes.
This will make it easier to build. After you attach all of the posts and insert the ladder into the hole, you will need to measure the top and bottom of the ladder to make sure that they are evenly spaced. Then cement the ladder.
2-2. Use the 2x6 to connect the posts.
Saw the board to 45-46” (1.1-1.2 m) so that it’s just the right length to bridge the gap between the vertical supports and complete the frame, which is 42" (1 m) wide. Line up the ends of the 2x6 with the outer edges of the posts and nail or screw it down at both ends. This piece will serve as the upper portion of the frame.
You'll need to stand on a ladder or step stool while affixing the top piece and individual rungs.
Buying precut lumber will save you some time, if you don’t mind paying a little extra. That way, all you’ll have to do is assemble the individual pieces once you get them home.
2-3. Mark the posts where the rungs will go.
Your starting point on the Salmon Ladder will be decided primarily by your unique stature. You want it to be low enough to climb safely and comfortably, but not so low that you’re forced to stoop or crouch to get in position. Once you’ve decided on the optimal placement for the first set of rungs, space every next set 12" (30 cm) apart.
A good way to determine where to put the lowest rungs is to reach up along the frame with one hand (without stretching too far) and draw a line on the side of the post.
Measure and mark each set separately and use a flat board or straight edge to make sure they’re evenly aligned.
12” (30 cm) rung spacing is the official standard used for the American Ninja Warrior course, but yours can be more or less as you see fit.
For beginners, 6" (15 cm) rung spacing can be helpful for learning how to do the Salmon Ladder.
2-4. Cut the rungs to the appropriate size and shape.
Starting on one end of the 2x4, draw a line at a 30-35 degree angle every 12” (30 cm). Saw the board along these lines to fashion the individual rungs for the ladder. Keep in mind that you’ll need an even number of rungs, one for each side.
If you are spacing your rungs at 6" (15 cm), then you will need to draw your lines every 6" (15 cm) instead of 12" (30 cm). You should still draw them at a 30-35 degree angle.
You may need additional lumber to produce a full set of rungs, depending on how high your want the obstacle to be.
2-5. Fasten the rungs to the posts.
Position the rungs over the marks you made earlier, and line up one of the angled ends with the backside of the frame’s interior edge. Then, nail or screw the rungs into place. Install 2 opposing rungs at a time, rather than working straight up the posts, so you can check their placement as you go.
Use multiple nails or screws to make sure the rungs are secure.
Once they’re attached, each rung will have a 30-35 degree incline, perfect for catching the bar as you work your way up the ladder.
3. Adding Other Features
3-1. Find a suitable bar for climbing the rungs.
A length of galvanized metal conduit piping should be strong enough to support most adult athletes without bending or warping. For lighter weight athletes, some sturdy PVC pipe might even suffice. Whatever material you go with, it’s important that it be at least as long as the total distance between the posts so it will fit into place over the rungs without slipping.
Try hanging from the bar to see how it feels before you start training. If the material is too heavy, it will make it difficult to move quickly. If it’s too light, it may be in danger of snapping after a few big jumps.
3-2. Devise some way to break your fall.
Sooner or later, even the most experienced athlete will miss a rung. When this happens, you’ll want to have some type of protective surface in place to soften the impact in case you don’t land on your feet. The simplest option is to buy a cushioned tumbling mat or an old futon and place it directly beneath the ladder. You’ll then be able to focus on training and not on what might happen should you lose your grip.
Most tumbling mats are segmented, which means they can be folded up and put away when they’re not in use.
You could also dig a shallow depression under the frame of your Salmon Ladder and fill it with foam blocks, sand, water, wood chips, or some other substance that will offer a little give. Create an 8"-12" (20-30.5 cm) deep cushion.
3-3. Incorporate other obstacles.
If you’re planning on making your Salmon Ladder one part of a larger course, set it up so that you can make a fluid transition once you reach the top. You’ll be high up off the ground, so the obstacle that comes next should be one that relies on elevation, such as a peg board, rope swing, or monkey bars.
Draft a blueprint for your comprehensive course before you begin building to get a sense of how each obstacle should fit together.
For a true test of endurance, save the Salmon Ladder for the tail end of the course.
Tips
Building your own Salmon Ladder is a quick and relatively inexpensive project—all told, it can be done in a single day with less than $100 worth of materials.
Recruit an extra set of hands to help you with the construction. Your assistant can hold the step stool, hand you lumber, and help measure and attach the rungs.
Feel free to modify the obstacle’s exact dimensions however you see fit. The most important thing is that it allows you to move in a natural and explosive manner without putting yourself at risk of injury.
Warnings
Avoid all of the complications of a concussion by making sure you have a soft landing if something goes wrong.
Train safely. No matter how well-constructed your Salmon Ladder is, there’s always a chance that you could fall, smash your fingers, smash your face, pick up splinters from the frame, or meet with other minor accidents.
Be responsible when handling your tools, especially nails, saws, power drills, and other potentially dangerous items.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:01",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Installing the Posts\\n1-1. Gather your materials.\\nThe Salmon Ladder has 2 main components—2 wooden posts and a series of angled rungs which you’ll use to catch and stabilize the bar. For this project, a pair of sturdy 12’-15’ (3.7-4.6 m) 4x4 posts will serve as the vertical supports, with a 2x6 across the top to connect the frame. The rungs themselves will be fashioned from a 2x4 sawed to the appropriate size and shape.\\nDepending on the spacing between the rungs, two 8 foot (2.4 m) (2.4 m) long 2x4's may be needed instead of one 12 foot (3.7 m) 2x4.\\nUse only high-quality pressure-treated lumber. Since it’s made to withstand heavier loads, you can be sure that it will hold up under hours and hours of intense training.\\nIn addition to the raw lumber, you’ll also need a hammer or electric drill, 3” (7.6 cm) nails or heavy-duty wood screws, a handsaw, a bag of quickset concrete, and a tape measure.\\n1-2. Dig holes to set the support beams.\\nUse a post hole digger to clear the soil by hand quickly and ensure that the holes are uniform. Each hole should be approximately 4 feet (1.2 m) deep and 1 foot (0.30 m) across. Space them roughly 42” (1 m) apart in order to leave a comfortable amount of distance to maneuver between the posts.\\nA flat, stable patch of ground with plenty of room to move around will make the best site for your Salmon Ladder.\\nIt's also a good idea to position your Salmon Ladder where you can attach other supports. This could mean resting it against a tree or adding additional supports at the top.\\nThe length of the 4x4 posts will correspond to the total height of the obstacle. For a standard 11’-12’ (3.4-3.7 m) ladder, you’ll need to have your posts cut to 15’-17’ (4.6-5 m).\\n1-3. Insert the posts into the holes.\\nSlide the end of the first post into one of the openings you just made and stand it upright carefully. Then, do the same with the second post. Once you've set the supports, double check that they're straight, with corners and faces perfectly aligned.\\nRecruit one or -- even better -- a few assistants to help you position and hold the heavy 4x4s.\\nUse a level to make sure the posts are sitting evenly, and stretch a separate board across the two posts to test whether it sits flush.\\nIf you live in an area that receives a lot of precipitation, consider adding about 3” (7.6 cm) of gravel, sand, or aggregate to the holes before setting the posts to promote drainage. Keeping the wood dry will prevent it from rotting or splitting over time.\\n1-4. Pour concrete to stabilize the posts.\\nWhile a helper holds each post steady, shake half a bag of quickset concrete into each hole. Mix it to a consistency similar to cake batter by adding water gradually. Make sure the concrete is evenly distributed around the supports at the bottom of the holes. It should begin to set within 15-20 minutes, depending on the weather.\\nConsider setting the posts on one day, then returning to complete construction the next to give the concrete plenty of time to dry.\\nAvoid putting any weight on the Salmon Ladder until the concrete has fully hardened.\\nYou can find a blueprint for a Salmon Ladder here: http://www.ninjawarriorblueprints.com/salmon-ladder-plans/.\\n2. Assembling the Frame\\n2-1. Assemble the ladder before you place the posts in the holes.\\nThis will make it easier to build. After you attach all of the posts and insert the ladder into the hole, you will need to measure the top and bottom of the ladder to make sure that they are evenly spaced. Then cement the ladder.\\n2-2. Use the 2x6 to connect the posts.\\nSaw the board to 45-46” (1.1-1.2 m) so that it’s just the right length to bridge the gap between the vertical supports and complete the frame, which is 42\\\" (1 m) wide. Line up the ends of the 2x6 with the outer edges of the posts and nail or screw it down at both ends. This piece will serve as the upper portion of the frame.\\nYou'll need to stand on a ladder or step stool while affixing the top piece and individual rungs.\\nBuying precut lumber will save you some time, if you don’t mind paying a little extra. That way, all you’ll have to do is assemble the individual pieces once you get them home.\\n2-3. Mark the posts where the rungs will go.\\nYour starting point on the Salmon Ladder will be decided primarily by your unique stature. You want it to be low enough to climb safely and comfortably, but not so low that you’re forced to stoop or crouch to get in position. Once you’ve decided on the optimal placement for the first set of rungs, space every next set 12\\\" (30 cm) apart.\\nA good way to determine where to put the lowest rungs is to reach up along the frame with one hand (without stretching too far) and draw a line on the side of the post.\\nMeasure and mark each set separately and use a flat board or straight edge to make sure they’re evenly aligned.\\n12” (30 cm) rung spacing is the official standard used for the American Ninja Warrior course, but yours can be more or less as you see fit.\\nFor beginners, 6\\\" (15 cm) rung spacing can be helpful for learning how to do the Salmon Ladder.\\n2-4. Cut the rungs to the appropriate size and shape.\\nStarting on one end of the 2x4, draw a line at a 30-35 degree angle every 12” (30 cm). Saw the board along these lines to fashion the individual rungs for the ladder. Keep in mind that you’ll need an even number of rungs, one for each side.\\nIf you are spacing your rungs at 6\\\" (15 cm), then you will need to draw your lines every 6\\\" (15 cm) instead of 12\\\" (30 cm). You should still draw them at a 30-35 degree angle.\\nYou may need additional lumber to produce a full set of rungs, depending on how high your want the obstacle to be.\\n2-5. Fasten the rungs to the posts.\\nPosition the rungs over the marks you made earlier, and line up one of the angled ends with the backside of the frame’s interior edge. Then, nail or screw the rungs into place. Install 2 opposing rungs at a time, rather than working straight up the posts, so you can check their placement as you go.\\nUse multiple nails or screws to make sure the rungs are secure.\\nOnce they’re attached, each rung will have a 30-35 degree incline, perfect for catching the bar as you work your way up the ladder.\\n3. Adding Other Features\\n3-1. Find a suitable bar for climbing the rungs.\\nA length of galvanized metal conduit piping should be strong enough to support most adult athletes without bending or warping. For lighter weight athletes, some sturdy PVC pipe might even suffice. Whatever material you go with, it’s important that it be at least as long as the total distance between the posts so it will fit into place over the rungs without slipping.\\nTry hanging from the bar to see how it feels before you start training. If the material is too heavy, it will make it difficult to move quickly. If it’s too light, it may be in danger of snapping after a few big jumps.\\n3-2. Devise some way to break your fall.\\nSooner or later, even the most experienced athlete will miss a rung. When this happens, you’ll want to have some type of protective surface in place to soften the impact in case you don’t land on your feet. The simplest option is to buy a cushioned tumbling mat or an old futon and place it directly beneath the ladder. You’ll then be able to focus on training and not on what might happen should you lose your grip.\\nMost tumbling mats are segmented, which means they can be folded up and put away when they’re not in use.\\nYou could also dig a shallow depression under the frame of your Salmon Ladder and fill it with foam blocks, sand, water, wood chips, or some other substance that will offer a little give. Create an 8\\\"-12\\\" (20-30.5 cm) deep cushion.\\n3-3. Incorporate other obstacles.\\nIf you’re planning on making your Salmon Ladder one part of a larger course, set it up so that you can make a fluid transition once you reach the top. You’ll be high up off the ground, so the obstacle that comes next should be one that relies on elevation, such as a peg board, rope swing, or monkey bars.\\nDraft a blueprint for your comprehensive course before you begin building to get a sense of how each obstacle should fit together.\\nFor a true test of endurance, save the Salmon Ladder for the tail end of the course.\\nTips\\nBuilding your own Salmon Ladder is a quick and relatively inexpensive project—all told, it can be done in a single day with less than $100 worth of materials.\\nRecruit an extra set of hands to help you with the construction. Your assistant can hold the step stool, hand you lumber, and help measure and attach the rungs.\\nFeel free to modify the obstacle’s exact dimensions however you see fit. The most important thing is that it allows you to move in a natural and explosive manner without putting yourself at risk of injury.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid all of the complications of a concussion by making sure you have a soft landing if something goes wrong.\\nTrain safely. No matter how well-constructed your Salmon Ladder is, there’s always a chance that you could fall, smash your fingers, smash your face, pick up splinters from the frame, or meet with other minor accidents.\\nBe responsible when handling your tools, especially nails, saws, power drills, and other potentially dangerous items.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The Salmon Ladder is a grueling climbing obstacle. To overcome it, you must ascend to the top of a pair of vertical posts by hopping a free-moving bar up one rung at a time. The structure is designed to push your explosive power, upper body strength, hand-eye coordination, and endurance to the limit. Luckily, constructing a homemade version of the obstacle isn’t as challenging as actually completing it. In fact, it’s as simple as attaching a few angled rungs to two sturdy support posts and setting them into the ground. With a Salmon Ladder in your own backyard, you’ll be able to elevate your training regimen to the next level.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Installing the Posts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"The Salmon Ladder has 2 main components—2 wooden posts and a series of angled rungs which you’ll use to catch and stabilize the bar. For this project, a pair of sturdy 12’-15’ (3.7-4.6 m) 4x4 posts will serve as the vertical supports, with a 2x6 across the top to connect the frame. The rungs themselves will be fashioned from a 2x4 sawed to the appropriate size and shape.\\nDepending on the spacing between the rungs, two 8 foot (2.4 m) (2.4 m) long 2x4's may be needed instead of one 12 foot (3.7 m) 2x4.\\nUse only high-quality pressure-treated lumber. Since it’s made to withstand heavier loads, you can be sure that it will hold up under hours and hours of intense training.\\nIn addition to the raw lumber, you’ll also need a hammer or electric drill, 3” (7.6 cm) nails or heavy-duty wood screws, a handsaw, a bag of quickset concrete, and a tape measure.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig holes to set the support beams.\", \"描述\": \"Use a post hole digger to clear the soil by hand quickly and ensure that the holes are uniform. Each hole should be approximately 4 feet (1.2 m) deep and 1 foot (0.30 m) across. Space them roughly 42” (1 m) apart in order to leave a comfortable amount of distance to maneuver between the posts.\\nA flat, stable patch of ground with plenty of room to move around will make the best site for your Salmon Ladder.\\nIt's also a good idea to position your Salmon Ladder where you can attach other supports. This could mean resting it against a tree or adding additional supports at the top.\\nThe length of the 4x4 posts will correspond to the total height of the obstacle. For a standard 11’-12’ (3.4-3.7 m) ladder, you’ll need to have your posts cut to 15’-17’ (4.6-5 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert the posts into the holes.\", \"描述\": \"Slide the end of the first post into one of the openings you just made and stand it upright carefully. Then, do the same with the second post. Once you've set the supports, double check that they're straight, with corners and faces perfectly aligned.\\nRecruit one or -- even better -- a few assistants to help you position and hold the heavy 4x4s.\\nUse a level to make sure the posts are sitting evenly, and stretch a separate board across the two posts to test whether it sits flush.\\nIf you live in an area that receives a lot of precipitation, consider adding about 3” (7.6 cm) of gravel, sand, or aggregate to the holes before setting the posts to promote drainage. Keeping the wood dry will prevent it from rotting or splitting over time.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pour concrete to stabilize the posts.\", \"描述\": \"While a helper holds each post steady, shake half a bag of quickset concrete into each hole. Mix it to a consistency similar to cake batter by adding water gradually. Make sure the concrete is evenly distributed around the supports at the bottom of the holes. It should begin to set within 15-20 minutes, depending on the weather.\\nConsider setting the posts on one day, then returning to complete construction the next to give the concrete plenty of time to dry.\\nAvoid putting any weight on the Salmon Ladder until the concrete has fully hardened.\\nYou can find a blueprint for a Salmon Ladder here: http://www.ninjawarriorblueprints.com/salmon-ladder-plans/.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble the ladder before you place the posts in the holes.\", \"描述\": \"This will make it easier to build. After you attach all of the posts and insert the ladder into the hole, you will need to measure the top and bottom of the ladder to make sure that they are evenly spaced. Then cement the ladder.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use the 2x6 to connect the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Saw the board to 45-46” (1.1-1.2 m) so that it’s just the right length to bridge the gap between the vertical supports and complete the frame, which is 42\\\" (1 m) wide. Line up the ends of the 2x6 with the outer edges of the posts and nail or screw it down at both ends. This piece will serve as the upper portion of the frame.\\nYou'll need to stand on a ladder or step stool while affixing the top piece and individual rungs.\\nBuying precut lumber will save you some time, if you don’t mind paying a little extra. That way, all you’ll have to do is assemble the individual pieces once you get them home.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the posts where the rungs will go.\", \"描述\": \"Your starting point on the Salmon Ladder will be decided primarily by your unique stature. You want it to be low enough to climb safely and comfortably, but not so low that you’re forced to stoop or crouch to get in position. Once you’ve decided on the optimal placement for the first set of rungs, space every next set 12\\\" (30 cm) apart.\\nA good way to determine where to put the lowest rungs is to reach up along the frame with one hand (without stretching too far) and draw a line on the side of the post.\\nMeasure and mark each set separately and use a flat board or straight edge to make sure they’re evenly aligned.\\n12” (30 cm) rung spacing is the official standard used for the American Ninja Warrior course, but yours can be more or less as you see fit.\\nFor beginners, 6\\\" (15 cm) rung spacing can be helpful for learning how to do the Salmon Ladder.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the rungs to the appropriate size and shape.\", \"描述\": \"Starting on one end of the 2x4, draw a line at a 30-35 degree angle every 12” (30 cm). Saw the board along these lines to fashion the individual rungs for the ladder. Keep in mind that you’ll need an even number of rungs, one for each side.\\nIf you are spacing your rungs at 6\\\" (15 cm), then you will need to draw your lines every 6\\\" (15 cm) instead of 12\\\" (30 cm). You should still draw them at a 30-35 degree angle.\\nYou may need additional lumber to produce a full set of rungs, depending on how high your want the obstacle to be.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fasten the rungs to the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Position the rungs over the marks you made earlier, and line up one of the angled ends with the backside of the frame’s interior edge. Then, nail or screw the rungs into place. Install 2 opposing rungs at a time, rather than working straight up the posts, so you can check their placement as you go.\\nUse multiple nails or screws to make sure the rungs are secure.\\nOnce they’re attached, each rung will have a 30-35 degree incline, perfect for catching the bar as you work your way up the ladder.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding Other Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a suitable bar for climbing the rungs.\", \"描述\": \"A length of galvanized metal conduit piping should be strong enough to support most adult athletes without bending or warping. For lighter weight athletes, some sturdy PVC pipe might even suffice. Whatever material you go with, it’s important that it be at least as long as the total distance between the posts so it will fit into place over the rungs without slipping.\\nTry hanging from the bar to see how it feels before you start training. If the material is too heavy, it will make it difficult to move quickly. If it’s too light, it may be in danger of snapping after a few big jumps.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Devise some way to break your fall.\", \"描述\": \"Sooner or later, even the most experienced athlete will miss a rung. When this happens, you’ll want to have some type of protective surface in place to soften the impact in case you don’t land on your feet. The simplest option is to buy a cushioned tumbling mat or an old futon and place it directly beneath the ladder. You’ll then be able to focus on training and not on what might happen should you lose your grip.\\nMost tumbling mats are segmented, which means they can be folded up and put away when they’re not in use.\\nYou could also dig a shallow depression under the frame of your Salmon Ladder and fill it with foam blocks, sand, water, wood chips, or some other substance that will offer a little give. Create an 8\\\"-12\\\" (20-30.5 cm) deep cushion.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Incorporate other obstacles.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re planning on making your Salmon Ladder one part of a larger course, set it up so that you can make a fluid transition once you reach the top. You’ll be high up off the ground, so the obstacle that comes next should be one that relies on elevation, such as a peg board, rope swing, or monkey bars.\\nDraft a blueprint for your comprehensive course before you begin building to get a sense of how each obstacle should fit together.\\nFor a true test of endurance, save the Salmon Ladder for the tail end of the course.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Building your own Salmon Ladder is a quick and relatively inexpensive project—all told, it can be done in a single day with less than $100 worth of materials.\\n\", \"Recruit an extra set of hands to help you with the construction. Your assistant can hold the step stool, hand you lumber, and help measure and attach the rungs.\\n\", \"Feel free to modify the obstacle’s exact dimensions however you see fit. The most important thing is that it allows you to move in a natural and explosive manner without putting yourself at risk of injury.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid all of the complications of a concussion by making sure you have a soft landing if something goes wrong.\\n\", \"Train safely. No matter how well-constructed your Salmon Ladder is, there’s always a chance that you could fall, smash your fingers, smash your face, pick up splinters from the frame, or meet with other minor accidents.\\n\", \"Be responsible when handling your tools, especially nails, saws, power drills, and other potentially dangerous items.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,521 |
How to Build a Sand Castle
|
1. Making Strong Sand Castles
1-1. Choose a spot that won't get washed away.
You could happily spend an afternoon building a city on the beach. If the tide is on its way in, sit down near the tide line, the wet sand farthest from the water.
1-2. Dig a well for easy water access (optional).
Sand castles have just two ingredients: sand and water. For easy access to the second, dig a hole within arm's reach of where you want to build. Dig straight down until water pools at the bottom of the hole.
You can skip this step if the sand is wet enough to mold on its own.
1-3. Scoop up clean sand.
Drop a handful of sand in a bucket of clear water. If the liquid looks murky or dirty, the sand has too much clay. It's much easier to build with fine, clean sand that leaves the water clear.
The best sand for building is so fine it feels like a powder, and has grains with many rough edges. Most beach sand is too smooth to build truly giant sculptures, so don't feel bad if you miss out on the world record.
1-4. Mix in a little water.
Surprisingly, the strongest mix you can make is only 1% water and 99% sand. This is just enough water to cling to the grains of sand, forming "bridges" between the grains of sand to lock them together. But you don't have to get out the eyedropper — for a day at the beach, just mix until you can roll a ball of sand in your hand without it crumbling.
1-5. Squeeze the sand as hard as you can.
The more you compress the sand, the stronger it is. The best tools for the job are your bare hands. Trying to tamp the sand down with a shovel creates more cracks or loose spots where your castle could fall apart.
Professional sand sculptors compact their sand in wooden frames, with no top or bottom. A bucket doesn't work for this because the sand gets stuck to the base. Listen for a "plop" or sucking sound when you empty tightly packed sand from a bucket — that's the sound of your hard work falling apart again.
1-6. Start with a strong base.
A sturdy, wide platform is a big help when you're trying to build a tall castle. Make a flat surface of wet sand larger than you think you need. Compress it by pushing it with your hands or stepping on it with bare feet.
The perfect sculpture can get as tall as 2.5 meters (8.2 feet) on a base just 20 centimeters (8 inches) across.
1-7. Build up a tall heap of wet sand.
Don't try to make the base of your castle perfect from the beginning. Get the general shape you want first, even if it's just a big pile. Do this by stacking big handfuls of wet sand. Place them as gently as you can, without slapping or squeezing. Stop when the pile starts slumping or tipping over — you can always add more later.
This can be much wetter than the sand you used for the base, as long as it mostly sticks together.
If building a tower, lower your hand from above onto the heap. If building walls, place each handful from the side, smoothing out the wall slightly.
1-8. Jiggle the heap of sand to drain out water.
Place your hands gently on either side of the top of your heap. Very gently wiggle your hands back and forth to vibrate the sand. This will send the extra water dribbling down through the sand below. The sand left behind will settle into a dense, firm shape.
Stop jiggling if you see any cracks appear.
1-9. Shape your castle from the top down.
Mold the top of your castle into the shapes of towers, buttresses, or anything you like. As you move down, jiggle the sand again wherever it feels loose or extra wet.
Check out the ideas below for forming specific castle shapes.
1-10. Keep your sand moist.
If you see the sand drying out and crumbling, pour on a handful of water and pat it together again. It's safer to add too much water than too little, since the extra water will drain out over time.
Bring along a spray bottle so you can quickly wet the castle surface as you sculpt.
2. Making Specific Shapes
2-1. Build taller towers.
The fastest way to build tall towers is with a stack of wet "sand pancakes." Mix together a large double handful of sand with almost as much water. Plop it down on the beach in a circle at least 20 cm (8 in) wide. Flatten the top a little. Working as quickly as possible, stack three or four more "pancakes," each one slightly smaller than the one below it. Once you get this high, stack even smaller handfuls gently on top, without trying to flatten them. Smooth out the walls of the tower before they dry.
Jiggle the sand between cupped hands as you go to help the sand settle.
2-2. Shape the castle walls.
You can build these in almost the same way as towers. Just form roughly square "bricks" of wet sand. Set them on top of each other gently, shaping and jiggling the sides to settle them into a flat shape.
Your walls will be more sturdy if you start building them against a finished tower.
2-3. Make an arch.
The easiest way to build an arch is to build two towers quite close together, leaning slightly inward as they go higher. As soon as the towers are close enough together, make a bridge between the tower tops with your hand. Pile more wet sand over your hand to connect the two towers, and wait a few seconds for it to dry. Heavy arches are more likely to collapse, so scrape off as much sand as you can from the sides and top before you move your hand away.
Professional sand sculptors can connect towers quite far apart, just inserting a bridge of sand between them and smoothing it out. This is pretty difficult, but if you're up for a challenge, use the same approach recommended earlier for the base of your castle: slightly wet sand, very densely packed.
2-4. Use small tools to shape the castle surfaces.
A small rake, shovel, pencil, or any other handheld tool can carve into the sand. To make a flat surface, just drag the tool slowly and steadily across the sand.
You can pack sand into funnels, small buckets, or other containers to shape it quickly into different forms. If you can, use containers that have a hole in the base. A solid base tends to stick to the sand, making it hard to force out.
If the sand crumbles when you try to carve it, add more water. If it slumps, let it dry out a little.
2-5. Carve the castle from the top downward.
It's always easiest to carve the top of your castle first. If you move from the bottom upward, the falling sand from above will rub out your careful designs.
2-6. Plan your moat carefully.
If you decide to add a moat, carve the water channels a little distance away from your castle base. Water can seep into the nearby sand and cause your whole castle to slump into the foundation. Make sure there's plenty of space between the moat and castle to avoid this problem.
If water flows down to the moat from higher ground than the castle, make sure it's not directly above your sculpture. Keep it to one side, so the water flowing through the sand doesn't collide with your hard work.
Tips
You can build even larger sand castles underwater! You'll need "hydrophobic sand" or "Magic Sand," which you can buy online.[13]
X
Trustworthy Source
Nature
Respected Multidisciplinary Scientific Journal
Go to source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:01",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making Strong Sand Castles\\n1-1. Choose a spot that won't get washed away.\\nYou could happily spend an afternoon building a city on the beach. If the tide is on its way in, sit down near the tide line, the wet sand farthest from the water.\\n1-2. Dig a well for easy water access (optional).\\nSand castles have just two ingredients: sand and water. For easy access to the second, dig a hole within arm's reach of where you want to build. Dig straight down until water pools at the bottom of the hole.\\nYou can skip this step if the sand is wet enough to mold on its own.\\n1-3. Scoop up clean sand.\\nDrop a handful of sand in a bucket of clear water. If the liquid looks murky or dirty, the sand has too much clay. It's much easier to build with fine, clean sand that leaves the water clear.\\nThe best sand for building is so fine it feels like a powder, and has grains with many rough edges. Most beach sand is too smooth to build truly giant sculptures, so don't feel bad if you miss out on the world record.\\n1-4. Mix in a little water.\\nSurprisingly, the strongest mix you can make is only 1% water and 99% sand. This is just enough water to cling to the grains of sand, forming \\\"bridges\\\" between the grains of sand to lock them together. But you don't have to get out the eyedropper — for a day at the beach, just mix until you can roll a ball of sand in your hand without it crumbling.\\n1-5. Squeeze the sand as hard as you can.\\nThe more you compress the sand, the stronger it is. The best tools for the job are your bare hands. Trying to tamp the sand down with a shovel creates more cracks or loose spots where your castle could fall apart.\\nProfessional sand sculptors compact their sand in wooden frames, with no top or bottom. A bucket doesn't work for this because the sand gets stuck to the base. Listen for a \\\"plop\\\" or sucking sound when you empty tightly packed sand from a bucket — that's the sound of your hard work falling apart again.\\n1-6. Start with a strong base.\\nA sturdy, wide platform is a big help when you're trying to build a tall castle. Make a flat surface of wet sand larger than you think you need. Compress it by pushing it with your hands or stepping on it with bare feet.\\nThe perfect sculpture can get as tall as 2.5 meters (8.2 feet) on a base just 20 centimeters (8 inches) across.\\n1-7. Build up a tall heap of wet sand.\\nDon't try to make the base of your castle perfect from the beginning. Get the general shape you want first, even if it's just a big pile. Do this by stacking big handfuls of wet sand. Place them as gently as you can, without slapping or squeezing. Stop when the pile starts slumping or tipping over — you can always add more later.\\nThis can be much wetter than the sand you used for the base, as long as it mostly sticks together.\\nIf building a tower, lower your hand from above onto the heap. If building walls, place each handful from the side, smoothing out the wall slightly.\\n1-8. Jiggle the heap of sand to drain out water.\\nPlace your hands gently on either side of the top of your heap. Very gently wiggle your hands back and forth to vibrate the sand. This will send the extra water dribbling down through the sand below. The sand left behind will settle into a dense, firm shape.\\nStop jiggling if you see any cracks appear.\\n1-9. Shape your castle from the top down.\\nMold the top of your castle into the shapes of towers, buttresses, or anything you like. As you move down, jiggle the sand again wherever it feels loose or extra wet.\\nCheck out the ideas below for forming specific castle shapes.\\n1-10. Keep your sand moist.\\nIf you see the sand drying out and crumbling, pour on a handful of water and pat it together again. It's safer to add too much water than too little, since the extra water will drain out over time.\\nBring along a spray bottle so you can quickly wet the castle surface as you sculpt.\\n2. Making Specific Shapes\\n2-1. Build taller towers.\\nThe fastest way to build tall towers is with a stack of wet \\\"sand pancakes.\\\" Mix together a large double handful of sand with almost as much water. Plop it down on the beach in a circle at least 20 cm (8 in) wide. Flatten the top a little. Working as quickly as possible, stack three or four more \\\"pancakes,\\\" each one slightly smaller than the one below it. Once you get this high, stack even smaller handfuls gently on top, without trying to flatten them. Smooth out the walls of the tower before they dry.\\nJiggle the sand between cupped hands as you go to help the sand settle.\\n2-2. Shape the castle walls.\\nYou can build these in almost the same way as towers. Just form roughly square \\\"bricks\\\" of wet sand. Set them on top of each other gently, shaping and jiggling the sides to settle them into a flat shape.\\nYour walls will be more sturdy if you start building them against a finished tower.\\n2-3. Make an arch.\\nThe easiest way to build an arch is to build two towers quite close together, leaning slightly inward as they go higher. As soon as the towers are close enough together, make a bridge between the tower tops with your hand. Pile more wet sand over your hand to connect the two towers, and wait a few seconds for it to dry. Heavy arches are more likely to collapse, so scrape off as much sand as you can from the sides and top before you move your hand away.\\nProfessional sand sculptors can connect towers quite far apart, just inserting a bridge of sand between them and smoothing it out. This is pretty difficult, but if you're up for a challenge, use the same approach recommended earlier for the base of your castle: slightly wet sand, very densely packed.\\n2-4. Use small tools to shape the castle surfaces.\\nA small rake, shovel, pencil, or any other handheld tool can carve into the sand. To make a flat surface, just drag the tool slowly and steadily across the sand.\\nYou can pack sand into funnels, small buckets, or other containers to shape it quickly into different forms. If you can, use containers that have a hole in the base. A solid base tends to stick to the sand, making it hard to force out.\\nIf the sand crumbles when you try to carve it, add more water. If it slumps, let it dry out a little.\\n2-5. Carve the castle from the top downward.\\nIt's always easiest to carve the top of your castle first. If you move from the bottom upward, the falling sand from above will rub out your careful designs.\\n2-6. Plan your moat carefully.\\nIf you decide to add a moat, carve the water channels a little distance away from your castle base. Water can seep into the nearby sand and cause your whole castle to slump into the foundation. Make sure there's plenty of space between the moat and castle to avoid this problem.\\nIf water flows down to the moat from higher ground than the castle, make sure it's not directly above your sculpture. Keep it to one side, so the water flowing through the sand doesn't collide with your hard work.\\nTips\\nYou can build even larger sand castles underwater! You'll need \\\"hydrophobic sand\\\" or \\\"Magic Sand,\\\" which you can buy online.[13]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nNature\\nRespected Multidisciplinary Scientific Journal\\nGo to source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Artists and beach goers celebrate sand festivals all over the world, heaping sand into unbelievably large and beautiful shapes. The amazing work of professional sculptors has even attracted the attention of scientists, who study their work to learn more about earthquake safety and building on sandy ground. Pick up a few tricks from all their effort and have fun building your own castle on your next trip to the beach.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making Strong Sand Castles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a spot that won't get washed away.\", \"描述\": \"You could happily spend an afternoon building a city on the beach. If the tide is on its way in, sit down near the tide line, the wet sand farthest from the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig a well for easy water access (optional).\", \"描述\": \"Sand castles have just two ingredients: sand and water. For easy access to the second, dig a hole within arm's reach of where you want to build. Dig straight down until water pools at the bottom of the hole.\\nYou can skip this step if the sand is wet enough to mold on its own.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Scoop up clean sand.\", \"描述\": \"Drop a handful of sand in a bucket of clear water. If the liquid looks murky or dirty, the sand has too much clay. It's much easier to build with fine, clean sand that leaves the water clear.\\nThe best sand for building is so fine it feels like a powder, and has grains with many rough edges. Most beach sand is too smooth to build truly giant sculptures, so don't feel bad if you miss out on the world record.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mix in a little water.\", \"描述\": \"Surprisingly, the strongest mix you can make is only 1% water and 99% sand. This is just enough water to cling to the grains of sand, forming \\\"bridges\\\" between the grains of sand to lock them together. But you don't have to get out the eyedropper — for a day at the beach, just mix until you can roll a ball of sand in your hand without it crumbling.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Squeeze the sand as hard as you can.\", \"描述\": \"The more you compress the sand, the stronger it is. The best tools for the job are your bare hands. Trying to tamp the sand down with a shovel creates more cracks or loose spots where your castle could fall apart.\\nProfessional sand sculptors compact their sand in wooden frames, with no top or bottom. A bucket doesn't work for this because the sand gets stuck to the base. Listen for a \\\"plop\\\" or sucking sound when you empty tightly packed sand from a bucket — that's the sound of your hard work falling apart again.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Start with a strong base.\", \"描述\": \"A sturdy, wide platform is a big help when you're trying to build a tall castle. Make a flat surface of wet sand larger than you think you need. Compress it by pushing it with your hands or stepping on it with bare feet.\\nThe perfect sculpture can get as tall as 2.5 meters (8.2 feet) on a base just 20 centimeters (8 inches) across.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Build up a tall heap of wet sand.\", \"描述\": \"Don't try to make the base of your castle perfect from the beginning. Get the general shape you want first, even if it's just a big pile. Do this by stacking big handfuls of wet sand. Place them as gently as you can, without slapping or squeezing. Stop when the pile starts slumping or tipping over — you can always add more later.\\nThis can be much wetter than the sand you used for the base, as long as it mostly sticks together.\\nIf building a tower, lower your hand from above onto the heap. If building walls, place each handful from the side, smoothing out the wall slightly.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Jiggle the heap of sand to drain out water.\", \"描述\": \"Place your hands gently on either side of the top of your heap. Very gently wiggle your hands back and forth to vibrate the sand. This will send the extra water dribbling down through the sand below. The sand left behind will settle into a dense, firm shape.\\nStop jiggling if you see any cracks appear.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Shape your castle from the top down.\", \"描述\": \"Mold the top of your castle into the shapes of towers, buttresses, or anything you like. As you move down, jiggle the sand again wherever it feels loose or extra wet.\\nCheck out the ideas below for forming specific castle shapes.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Keep your sand moist.\", \"描述\": \"If you see the sand drying out and crumbling, pour on a handful of water and pat it together again. It's safer to add too much water than too little, since the extra water will drain out over time.\\nBring along a spray bottle so you can quickly wet the castle surface as you sculpt.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making Specific Shapes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build taller towers.\", \"描述\": \"The fastest way to build tall towers is with a stack of wet \\\"sand pancakes.\\\" Mix together a large double handful of sand with almost as much water. Plop it down on the beach in a circle at least 20 cm (8 in) wide. Flatten the top a little. Working as quickly as possible, stack three or four more \\\"pancakes,\\\" each one slightly smaller than the one below it. Once you get this high, stack even smaller handfuls gently on top, without trying to flatten them. Smooth out the walls of the tower before they dry.\\nJiggle the sand between cupped hands as you go to help the sand settle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Shape the castle walls.\", \"描述\": \"You can build these in almost the same way as towers. Just form roughly square \\\"bricks\\\" of wet sand. Set them on top of each other gently, shaping and jiggling the sides to settle them into a flat shape.\\nYour walls will be more sturdy if you start building them against a finished tower.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make an arch.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest way to build an arch is to build two towers quite close together, leaning slightly inward as they go higher. As soon as the towers are close enough together, make a bridge between the tower tops with your hand. Pile more wet sand over your hand to connect the two towers, and wait a few seconds for it to dry. Heavy arches are more likely to collapse, so scrape off as much sand as you can from the sides and top before you move your hand away.\\nProfessional sand sculptors can connect towers quite far apart, just inserting a bridge of sand between them and smoothing it out. This is pretty difficult, but if you're up for a challenge, use the same approach recommended earlier for the base of your castle: slightly wet sand, very densely packed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use small tools to shape the castle surfaces.\", \"描述\": \"A small rake, shovel, pencil, or any other handheld tool can carve into the sand. To make a flat surface, just drag the tool slowly and steadily across the sand.\\nYou can pack sand into funnels, small buckets, or other containers to shape it quickly into different forms. If you can, use containers that have a hole in the base. A solid base tends to stick to the sand, making it hard to force out.\\nIf the sand crumbles when you try to carve it, add more water. If it slumps, let it dry out a little.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Carve the castle from the top downward.\", \"描述\": \"It's always easiest to carve the top of your castle first. If you move from the bottom upward, the falling sand from above will rub out your careful designs.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Plan your moat carefully.\", \"描述\": \"If you decide to add a moat, carve the water channels a little distance away from your castle base. Water can seep into the nearby sand and cause your whole castle to slump into the foundation. Make sure there's plenty of space between the moat and castle to avoid this problem.\\nIf water flows down to the moat from higher ground than the castle, make sure it's not directly above your sculpture. Keep it to one side, so the water flowing through the sand doesn't collide with your hard work.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can build even larger sand castles underwater! You'll need \\\"hydrophobic sand\\\" or \\\"Magic Sand,\\\" which you can buy online.[13]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nNature\\nRespected Multidisciplinary Scientific Journal\\nGo to source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,522 |
How to Build a Sandbox
|
1. Preparing the Location
1-1. Pick a location at which to put the sandbox.
It's important to keep a few basic things in mind when planning where to put your sandbox. The location is going to be one of the more important things to pick out before you start.
Shade. Your kids will want to spend hours in the sandbox, so make sure it's someplace that is protected from the sun's harmful UV rays. This can be near the house or a shade tree (be careful you don't damage the roots when digging). It can also be a portable patio umbrella, which has the advantage of being able to be placed where needed for maximum shade.
Sight. Make sure your sandbox is easily within the line of sight so that the adults watching the children can keep an eye on them.
Drainage. After a summer shower, you'll want to make sure your sandbox can drain naturally, so build it at a higher elevation if possible, and definitely not in a low spot in your yard. Try to build it so that there will be a slight slope. This will help with drainage.
1-2. Get lumber in the right size.
Determine how long you want each side to be and purchase lumber so that it is 3-1/2" shorter than that, assuming you can stipulate how long you want your boards to be when you purchase them. If not, you can cut them to size yourself.
For this example, we'll assume a 6' square sandbox, so cut each board to 5'8-1/2" in length. If you have a circular saw, you can do this yourself. If not, your lumberyard will be able to do this step for you.
4x4 lumber is actually only 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 square. To make this sandbox you will be joining the boards together, and this is why the individual boards need to be shorter by this amount.
1-3. Set your boundaries.
Mark the outside perimeter of the boards, remove them, and dig out inside that perimeter to a depth of six inches. Always make sure to call the Digline at 811 first to ensure that it is safe to dig in a particular area.
1-4. Add a layer of sand.
Make it about 4" wide and 1" to 2" deep. The bottom layer of boards will sit on this sand bed, and if the ground is not perfectly level, the sand bed will help you level the boards.
2. Building the Box
2-1. Lay out your boards.
Lay down the first layer of boards as in the shape of a square.
2-2. Place the first layer of boards onto the sand bed.
Use a framing square to make sure each of the four corners are square, and tack them into place by screwing the scrap lumber across the corners.
2-3. Level the first layer.
Once your first layer is tacked together and square on all 4 corners, level it with the rubber mallet, tapping each side into the sand, and checking the level frequently. Make sure it is level all around.
2-4. Add the second layer.
Carefully remove the temporary corner tacks, and lay down the second layer of boards overlapping the first layer, as shown:
2-5. Screw the first two layers together.
Using a drill driver, attach the second layer to the first layer using 6" self-tapping timber screws. Space them evenly, three on each side. Pre-drill a pilot hole at least half the diameter of the 6" screw to help with installing screws to the base.
2-6. Line the box.
Lay a sheet of landscaping fabric across the sandbox so that it overlaps the second layer, and work it all around the edges and bottom of the sandbox pit so that it completely covers everything. This will allow water to drain out, and keep weeds from finding a new home.
2-7. Add the final layer.
Using the same overlapping method as the second layer, lay down the third layer of boards, and screw them together with the timber screws. Be sure to offset the screws from the ones below!
2-8. Trim the fabric.
Using heavy duty scissors or a utility knife, trim away the extra landscaping fabric.
2-9. Add sand!
To determine how much sand you will need, use this formula: Multiply the length x width x depth (don't fill it all the way to the top), and then divide that number by 27. This will give you the amount of sand in cubic feet you'll need to fill your sandbox. Make sure you use play sand, as this has been cleaned and is much less dirty than building sand.
3. Building a Cover
3-1. Make a cover.
You will want to have some kind of cover on your sandbox. The danger is that wild animals or even domestic ones love to poop in kids' sandboxes! Oh no! You can build a basic cover by getting two doors and attaching them with hinges to the outside of the wooden frame of the box, or you can follow the directions below to make two benches which slide over the box. This bench allows you to pull it only partially, creating seating at the side of the box for mommy or daddy, while junior plays in the sand.
3-2. Get eight posts.
These posts should be made of 4x4 lumber. Their length will be determined by how high you made your sandbox. They will need to be at least 5" higher (from the ground) than the box. There will be four posts used for each of the two benches.
3-3. Create the short sides.
Get eight 1x4s to join the posts together (4 for each bench). The length of the boards are very dependent on the six of the box you built. Once the boards are cut to size, use 2 wood screws (at least 2" in length) at each end and attach the board so that the top of the boards are flush with the end of the posts and the ends of the boards are flush with the sides of the posts.
In the example used above where the box is 6'x6', the short-end joining board would need to be ~38 3/4".
The formula for figuring out the length of the short end joining boards is 1/2 the length of your box + ~2.75".
3-4. Join the short ends together.
Get six 1x4s (3 for each bench). These will form the long sides of the bench. Again, the length will depend on how long the sides of your sandbox are. The short end joining boards will face the "inside" of the bench, while the long boards will need to be attached to the outside (again, flush with the sides of the posts, as well as the top and bottom). One side of each bench will only have a long board at the top and not at the bottom. Secure with 2 wood screws at each end.
In the example used above where the box is 6'x6', the long boards would need to be ~6'9".
The formula for figuring out the length of the long side joining boards is your total sandbox side length + ~9".
3-5. Attach a brace beam.
Take two more 1x4s, the same length as your short end joining boards, and attach one to each bench, between the long side boards, using brackets. The support beam should have the wide side facing up, and be flush with the tops of the long side boards.
Make sure the brackets are small enough to fit underneath the support beam without going below the bottom edge of the long side boards.
Make your job easier later by marking the center line of the support beam on the front of the long side board. This will later be used to figure out where to nail the seat of the bench.
3-6. Attach the seat.
Take 1x4s the same length as your long side boards and nail or screw them at the ends and the center to the top of the bench. You should use two screws/nails at each end and at the center. Lay the boards out first, starting from one side and progressing to the other. Place 1/4" tile spacers between each board as you lay them out.
If you're following the example, you'll want 10 boards for each bench, plus an extra which will need to be split lengthwise down the middle with each bench taking a half. In other words, 21 boards total. Use a table saw or jigsaw to cut the board down the center.
The spacers between the boards allow air to circulate, helping to prevent mold, but do not allow naughty cats in!
If you're having trouble finding the center to nail down the boards, either measure for the center or use the guideline you put in when you made the brace beam.
3-7. Slide the benches together over the box to close it.
Open them only part way, so that the seat stops at the edge of the sandbox, in order to creating seating for kids and adults alike.
3-8. Stain the wood to protect it.
You will also want to remove the cover with regularity to prevent mold growth.
Tips
RATIONALE: Uncovered sand is subject to contamination and transmission of disease from animal feces (such as toxoplasmosis from cat feces) and insects breeding in sandboxes. No play material should contain toxic or harmful ingredients such as Tremolite, an asbestos-like substance. Sand that is used as a building material or is harvested from a site containing toxic substances may contain potentially harmful substances. Sand can come from many sources. Child care providers should be sure they are using sand labeled as a safe play material or sand that is specifically prepared for sandbox use.
Bigger is better for the kids. A little sandbox doesn't allow for friends.
Your local hardware store probably sells play sand, so buy it there instead of online, because the shipping fees may be very high.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:02",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing the Location\\n1-1. Pick a location at which to put the sandbox.\\nIt's important to keep a few basic things in mind when planning where to put your sandbox. The location is going to be one of the more important things to pick out before you start.\\nShade. Your kids will want to spend hours in the sandbox, so make sure it's someplace that is protected from the sun's harmful UV rays. This can be near the house or a shade tree (be careful you don't damage the roots when digging). It can also be a portable patio umbrella, which has the advantage of being able to be placed where needed for maximum shade.\\nSight. Make sure your sandbox is easily within the line of sight so that the adults watching the children can keep an eye on them.\\nDrainage. After a summer shower, you'll want to make sure your sandbox can drain naturally, so build it at a higher elevation if possible, and definitely not in a low spot in your yard. Try to build it so that there will be a slight slope. This will help with drainage.\\n1-2. Get lumber in the right size.\\nDetermine how long you want each side to be and purchase lumber so that it is 3-1/2\\\" shorter than that, assuming you can stipulate how long you want your boards to be when you purchase them. If not, you can cut them to size yourself.\\nFor this example, we'll assume a 6' square sandbox, so cut each board to 5'8-1/2\\\" in length. If you have a circular saw, you can do this yourself. If not, your lumberyard will be able to do this step for you.\\n4x4 lumber is actually only 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 square. To make this sandbox you will be joining the boards together, and this is why the individual boards need to be shorter by this amount.\\n1-3. Set your boundaries.\\nMark the outside perimeter of the boards, remove them, and dig out inside that perimeter to a depth of six inches. Always make sure to call the Digline at 811 first to ensure that it is safe to dig in a particular area.\\n1-4. Add a layer of sand.\\nMake it about 4\\\" wide and 1\\\" to 2\\\" deep. The bottom layer of boards will sit on this sand bed, and if the ground is not perfectly level, the sand bed will help you level the boards.\\n2. Building the Box\\n2-1. Lay out your boards.\\nLay down the first layer of boards as in the shape of a square.\\n2-2. Place the first layer of boards onto the sand bed.\\nUse a framing square to make sure each of the four corners are square, and tack them into place by screwing the scrap lumber across the corners.\\n2-3. Level the first layer.\\nOnce your first layer is tacked together and square on all 4 corners, level it with the rubber mallet, tapping each side into the sand, and checking the level frequently. Make sure it is level all around.\\n2-4. Add the second layer.\\nCarefully remove the temporary corner tacks, and lay down the second layer of boards overlapping the first layer, as shown:\\n2-5. Screw the first two layers together.\\nUsing a drill driver, attach the second layer to the first layer using 6\\\" self-tapping timber screws. Space them evenly, three on each side. Pre-drill a pilot hole at least half the diameter of the 6\\\" screw to help with installing screws to the base.\\n2-6. Line the box.\\nLay a sheet of landscaping fabric across the sandbox so that it overlaps the second layer, and work it all around the edges and bottom of the sandbox pit so that it completely covers everything. This will allow water to drain out, and keep weeds from finding a new home.\\n2-7. Add the final layer.\\nUsing the same overlapping method as the second layer, lay down the third layer of boards, and screw them together with the timber screws. Be sure to offset the screws from the ones below!\\n2-8. Trim the fabric.\\nUsing heavy duty scissors or a utility knife, trim away the extra landscaping fabric.\\n2-9. Add sand!\\nTo determine how much sand you will need, use this formula: Multiply the length x width x depth (don't fill it all the way to the top), and then divide that number by 27. This will give you the amount of sand in cubic feet you'll need to fill your sandbox. Make sure you use play sand, as this has been cleaned and is much less dirty than building sand.\\n3. Building a Cover\\n3-1. Make a cover.\\nYou will want to have some kind of cover on your sandbox. The danger is that wild animals or even domestic ones love to poop in kids' sandboxes! Oh no! You can build a basic cover by getting two doors and attaching them with hinges to the outside of the wooden frame of the box, or you can follow the directions below to make two benches which slide over the box. This bench allows you to pull it only partially, creating seating at the side of the box for mommy or daddy, while junior plays in the sand.\\n3-2. Get eight posts.\\nThese posts should be made of 4x4 lumber. Their length will be determined by how high you made your sandbox. They will need to be at least 5\\\" higher (from the ground) than the box. There will be four posts used for each of the two benches.\\n3-3. Create the short sides.\\nGet eight 1x4s to join the posts together (4 for each bench). The length of the boards are very dependent on the six of the box you built. Once the boards are cut to size, use 2 wood screws (at least 2\\\" in length) at each end and attach the board so that the top of the boards are flush with the end of the posts and the ends of the boards are flush with the sides of the posts.\\nIn the example used above where the box is 6'x6', the short-end joining board would need to be ~38 3/4\\\".\\nThe formula for figuring out the length of the short end joining boards is 1/2 the length of your box + ~2.75\\\".\\n3-4. Join the short ends together.\\nGet six 1x4s (3 for each bench). These will form the long sides of the bench. Again, the length will depend on how long the sides of your sandbox are. The short end joining boards will face the \\\"inside\\\" of the bench, while the long boards will need to be attached to the outside (again, flush with the sides of the posts, as well as the top and bottom). One side of each bench will only have a long board at the top and not at the bottom. Secure with 2 wood screws at each end.\\nIn the example used above where the box is 6'x6', the long boards would need to be ~6'9\\\".\\nThe formula for figuring out the length of the long side joining boards is your total sandbox side length + ~9\\\".\\n3-5. Attach a brace beam.\\nTake two more 1x4s, the same length as your short end joining boards, and attach one to each bench, between the long side boards, using brackets. The support beam should have the wide side facing up, and be flush with the tops of the long side boards.\\nMake sure the brackets are small enough to fit underneath the support beam without going below the bottom edge of the long side boards.\\nMake your job easier later by marking the center line of the support beam on the front of the long side board. This will later be used to figure out where to nail the seat of the bench.\\n3-6. Attach the seat.\\nTake 1x4s the same length as your long side boards and nail or screw them at the ends and the center to the top of the bench. You should use two screws/nails at each end and at the center. Lay the boards out first, starting from one side and progressing to the other. Place 1/4\\\" tile spacers between each board as you lay them out.\\nIf you're following the example, you'll want 10 boards for each bench, plus an extra which will need to be split lengthwise down the middle with each bench taking a half. In other words, 21 boards total. Use a table saw or jigsaw to cut the board down the center.\\nThe spacers between the boards allow air to circulate, helping to prevent mold, but do not allow naughty cats in!\\nIf you're having trouble finding the center to nail down the boards, either measure for the center or use the guideline you put in when you made the brace beam.\\n3-7. Slide the benches together over the box to close it.\\nOpen them only part way, so that the seat stops at the edge of the sandbox, in order to creating seating for kids and adults alike.\\n3-8. Stain the wood to protect it.\\nYou will also want to remove the cover with regularity to prevent mold growth.\\nTips\\nRATIONALE: Uncovered sand is subject to contamination and transmission of disease from animal feces (such as toxoplasmosis from cat feces) and insects breeding in sandboxes. No play material should contain toxic or harmful ingredients such as Tremolite, an asbestos-like substance. Sand that is used as a building material or is harvested from a site containing toxic substances may contain potentially harmful substances. Sand can come from many sources. Child care providers should be sure they are using sand labeled as a safe play material or sand that is specifically prepared for sandbox use.\\nBigger is better for the kids. A little sandbox doesn't allow for friends.\\nYour local hardware store probably sells play sand, so buy it there instead of online, because the shipping fees may be very high.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Nothing says \\\"childhood\\\" like summertime and sandboxes. Not only is the sandbox a great place for your kids to learn the fine art of sandcastle building, truck driving, and sharing, it's also a gathering center for the community of children, a place where they can have fun and let their imaginations run free.\\nBuilding a sandbox may not be child's play, but it is very easy, and can be done in an afternoon. Not only will it give you great satisfaction, it will make you the local hero to your kids!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Location\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick a location at which to put the sandbox.\", \"描述\": \"It's important to keep a few basic things in mind when planning where to put your sandbox. The location is going to be one of the more important things to pick out before you start.\\nShade. Your kids will want to spend hours in the sandbox, so make sure it's someplace that is protected from the sun's harmful UV rays. This can be near the house or a shade tree (be careful you don't damage the roots when digging). It can also be a portable patio umbrella, which has the advantage of being able to be placed where needed for maximum shade.\\nSight. Make sure your sandbox is easily within the line of sight so that the adults watching the children can keep an eye on them.\\nDrainage. After a summer shower, you'll want to make sure your sandbox can drain naturally, so build it at a higher elevation if possible, and definitely not in a low spot in your yard. Try to build it so that there will be a slight slope. This will help with drainage.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get lumber in the right size.\", \"描述\": \"Determine how long you want each side to be and purchase lumber so that it is 3-1/2\\\" shorter than that, assuming you can stipulate how long you want your boards to be when you purchase them. If not, you can cut them to size yourself.\\nFor this example, we'll assume a 6' square sandbox, so cut each board to 5'8-1/2\\\" in length. If you have a circular saw, you can do this yourself. If not, your lumberyard will be able to do this step for you.\\n4x4 lumber is actually only 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 square. To make this sandbox you will be joining the boards together, and this is why the individual boards need to be shorter by this amount.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set your boundaries.\", \"描述\": \"Mark the outside perimeter of the boards, remove them, and dig out inside that perimeter to a depth of six inches. Always make sure to call the Digline at 811 first to ensure that it is safe to dig in a particular area.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a layer of sand.\", \"描述\": \"Make it about 4\\\" wide and 1\\\" to 2\\\" deep. The bottom layer of boards will sit on this sand bed, and if the ground is not perfectly level, the sand bed will help you level the boards.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Box\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out your boards.\", \"描述\": \"Lay down the first layer of boards as in the shape of a square.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the first layer of boards onto the sand bed.\", \"描述\": \"Use a framing square to make sure each of the four corners are square, and tack them into place by screwing the scrap lumber across the corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Level the first layer.\", \"描述\": \"Once your first layer is tacked together and square on all 4 corners, level it with the rubber mallet, tapping each side into the sand, and checking the level frequently. Make sure it is level all around.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the second layer.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully remove the temporary corner tacks, and lay down the second layer of boards overlapping the first layer, as shown:\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw the first two layers together.\", \"描述\": \"Using a drill driver, attach the second layer to the first layer using 6\\\" self-tapping timber screws. Space them evenly, three on each side. Pre-drill a pilot hole at least half the diameter of the 6\\\" screw to help with installing screws to the base.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Line the box.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a sheet of landscaping fabric across the sandbox so that it overlaps the second layer, and work it all around the edges and bottom of the sandbox pit so that it completely covers everything. This will allow water to drain out, and keep weeds from finding a new home.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add the final layer.\", \"描述\": \"Using the same overlapping method as the second layer, lay down the third layer of boards, and screw them together with the timber screws. Be sure to offset the screws from the ones below!\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Trim the fabric.\", \"描述\": \"Using heavy duty scissors or a utility knife, trim away the extra landscaping fabric.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Add sand!\", \"描述\": \"To determine how much sand you will need, use this formula: Multiply the length x width x depth (don't fill it all the way to the top), and then divide that number by 27. This will give you the amount of sand in cubic feet you'll need to fill your sandbox. Make sure you use play sand, as this has been cleaned and is much less dirty than building sand.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Cover\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a cover.\", \"描述\": \"You will want to have some kind of cover on your sandbox. The danger is that wild animals or even domestic ones love to poop in kids' sandboxes! Oh no! You can build a basic cover by getting two doors and attaching them with hinges to the outside of the wooden frame of the box, or you can follow the directions below to make two benches which slide over the box. This bench allows you to pull it only partially, creating seating at the side of the box for mommy or daddy, while junior plays in the sand.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get eight posts.\", \"描述\": \"These posts should be made of 4x4 lumber. Their length will be determined by how high you made your sandbox. They will need to be at least 5\\\" higher (from the ground) than the box. There will be four posts used for each of the two benches.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create the short sides.\", \"描述\": \"Get eight 1x4s to join the posts together (4 for each bench). The length of the boards are very dependent on the six of the box you built. Once the boards are cut to size, use 2 wood screws (at least 2\\\" in length) at each end and attach the board so that the top of the boards are flush with the end of the posts and the ends of the boards are flush with the sides of the posts.\\nIn the example used above where the box is 6'x6', the short-end joining board would need to be ~38 3/4\\\".\\nThe formula for figuring out the length of the short end joining boards is 1/2 the length of your box + ~2.75\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Join the short ends together.\", \"描述\": \"Get six 1x4s (3 for each bench). These will form the long sides of the bench. Again, the length will depend on how long the sides of your sandbox are. The short end joining boards will face the \\\"inside\\\" of the bench, while the long boards will need to be attached to the outside (again, flush with the sides of the posts, as well as the top and bottom). One side of each bench will only have a long board at the top and not at the bottom. Secure with 2 wood screws at each end.\\nIn the example used above where the box is 6'x6', the long boards would need to be ~6'9\\\".\\nThe formula for figuring out the length of the long side joining boards is your total sandbox side length + ~9\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach a brace beam.\", \"描述\": \"Take two more 1x4s, the same length as your short end joining boards, and attach one to each bench, between the long side boards, using brackets. The support beam should have the wide side facing up, and be flush with the tops of the long side boards.\\nMake sure the brackets are small enough to fit underneath the support beam without going below the bottom edge of the long side boards.\\nMake your job easier later by marking the center line of the support beam on the front of the long side board. This will later be used to figure out where to nail the seat of the bench.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the seat.\", \"描述\": \"Take 1x4s the same length as your long side boards and nail or screw them at the ends and the center to the top of the bench. You should use two screws/nails at each end and at the center. Lay the boards out first, starting from one side and progressing to the other. Place 1/4\\\" tile spacers between each board as you lay them out.\\nIf you're following the example, you'll want 10 boards for each bench, plus an extra which will need to be split lengthwise down the middle with each bench taking a half. In other words, 21 boards total. Use a table saw or jigsaw to cut the board down the center.\\nThe spacers between the boards allow air to circulate, helping to prevent mold, but do not allow naughty cats in!\\nIf you're having trouble finding the center to nail down the boards, either measure for the center or use the guideline you put in when you made the brace beam.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Slide the benches together over the box to close it.\", \"描述\": \"Open them only part way, so that the seat stops at the edge of the sandbox, in order to creating seating for kids and adults alike.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Stain the wood to protect it.\", \"描述\": \"You will also want to remove the cover with regularity to prevent mold growth.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"RATIONALE: Uncovered sand is subject to contamination and transmission of disease from animal feces (such as toxoplasmosis from cat feces) and insects breeding in sandboxes. No play material should contain toxic or harmful ingredients such as Tremolite, an asbestos-like substance. Sand that is used as a building material or is harvested from a site containing toxic substances may contain potentially harmful substances. Sand can come from many sources. Child care providers should be sure they are using sand labeled as a safe play material or sand that is specifically prepared for sandbox use.\\n\", \"Bigger is better for the kids. A little sandbox doesn't allow for friends.\\n\", \"Your local hardware store probably sells play sand, so buy it there instead of online, because the shipping fees may be very high.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,523 |
How to Build a Saw Horse
|
1. Steps
1-1. Get a couple of suitable boards for your project.
2X6 nominal southern yellow pine was used for the horses in the illustrations, and was ripped down, or split to make the finished product lighter in weight, but 2X4 (no ripping) using lodgepole or white pine, or spruce will also work. For horses that are to be left outdoors in the weather, it may be worthwhile to buy lumber that is treated to resist rot and insects.
1-2. Set up a work table or other surface to measure and cut the lumber on.
Since you are building the saw horses, it can be assumed you don't already have a set available, but if you do, of course use them.
1-3. Rip the lumber
This will reduce the total weight and amount of lumber required by half (compared to 2x6). For using full sized 2X4s, skip this step.
1-4. Measure the length of the legs to a comfortable working height.
For a typical 6 foot (1.8m) tall worker, 34-36 inches (.86-.91m) is about right, for shorter individuals, you may need to adjust the height. It is suggested you build your horses a bit tall, since the legs can be trimmed when they are complete to fit the user.
1-5. Cut a bevel on the first leg when you cut it to length.
For a good spread on the horse's legs, an angle of about 65 degrees from the square line, or 25 degrees from the board's edge should work nicely; those angles do and should total 90 degrees. You will want to note, you are cutting this bevel square to the narrow edge of your board, so you may find you need to mark both top and bottom, and recut through from the bottom to get all the way through the board. These cuts need to be flat (and straight), so they will fit against the top board flush and tightly.
1-6. Cut the back or top board of your horse, which will be sawed square on both ends, about 42-48 inches (107-122cm) long.
Make a mark an inch or so from each end, and draw a square line to determine where to attach the legs, on both sides.
1-7. Lay the back board on a flat surface, whether a work table, on a smooth floor, or even on the tailgate of a pickup truck.
Position your first leg on the square mark made previously, and nail it so the bevel is set tightly against the edge of the top board. Blunting the point of your nails will decrease the likelihood the wood will split when it is nailed, and using an 8d (8 penny) nail for this will give sufficient holding power without passing through both pieces.
1-8. Nail both legs on one side of the top board, then flip the assembly over.
Nail the other two legs opposite to the first pair. You can use larger nails now, since if the points project through, they will go into the back of the first pair of legs and increase the strength of this joint.
1-9. Stand your partially assembled horses upright, and measure down from the bottom of your top board about 8 inches (20cm), and using a short board, scribe it to be a horizontal spreader brace to fit between the legs.
The angles on these braces should be roughly degrees 115 top and 65 bottom for total of 180 degrees, but scribing all of the braces in position will provide a better (more exact) fit. Use your scribed brace as a pattern to mark three additional pieces, making sure you have two for each Sawhorse.
The 65 degree angle is called "25 from square" because you can find a 65 angle by marking "25 off from 90" using a tool called a 90 degree "rafter angle square," or "speed square" or similar instrument.
1-10. Nail your braces in place, using two 12d nails in each end, going first through the leg, and into the end-grain of the brace.
~ Nail the braces on each pair of legs carefully, making sure they position the legs so the horse stands flat and straight on level ground.~ Nailing these braces out of position will mean the horse will wobble and be unsteady.~ Holding the horse upright and straight while nailing is worth the effort.
1-11. Flip the horse back over on its top board, and prop it in place or have someone hold it.
Cut another board about 18 inches (46cm) long, with a 45 degree angle on one end as the diagonal brace. Hold the angled end against the spreader brace and scribe the other end where it intersects the top board, then cut this mark. Use this piece for your pattern and for a pair of horses, cut 3 more.
1-12. Nail these braces in place, with the end cut on a 45 degree angle butted into the spreader brace and nailed through from the brace into the end grain, and the scribed end to the underside of the top board.
This will be nailed across the grain into the bottom of the top board, so use nails that are large enough to get a good bite, at least 12d, and blunt the ends to prevent the wood from splitting.
1-13. Check your horses to make sure the legs are equal in length and fit the ground evenly.
If not, you can trim the legs that are long, making sure the top board is parallel to the ground.
1-14. Finished.
Tips
When sawing wood on your horses, setting your saw to the correct depth will make them last much longer.
Putting an additional 2x4 flat on top of the horse will give you a 'sacrificial' piece of wood, that you can replace when it gets chewed up by your saw.
The "A" shaped sawbucks for straight handsaws are usually only 20-24" high, allowing the user to kneel on the boards being cut. Adjust the height according to what feels right to you, keeping in mind the length of your saw.
Warnings
Eye protection is recommended when sawing lumber and driving nails.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:02",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Get a couple of suitable boards for your project.\\n2X6 nominal southern yellow pine was used for the horses in the illustrations, and was ripped down, or split to make the finished product lighter in weight, but 2X4 (no ripping) using lodgepole or white pine, or spruce will also work. For horses that are to be left outdoors in the weather, it may be worthwhile to buy lumber that is treated to resist rot and insects.\\n1-2. Set up a work table or other surface to measure and cut the lumber on.\\nSince you are building the saw horses, it can be assumed you don't already have a set available, but if you do, of course use them.\\n1-3. Rip the lumber\\nThis will reduce the total weight and amount of lumber required by half (compared to 2x6). For using full sized 2X4s, skip this step.\\n1-4. Measure the length of the legs to a comfortable working height.\\nFor a typical 6 foot (1.8m) tall worker, 34-36 inches (.86-.91m) is about right, for shorter individuals, you may need to adjust the height. It is suggested you build your horses a bit tall, since the legs can be trimmed when they are complete to fit the user.\\n1-5. Cut a bevel on the first leg when you cut it to length.\\nFor a good spread on the horse's legs, an angle of about 65 degrees from the square line, or 25 degrees from the board's edge should work nicely; those angles do and should total 90 degrees. You will want to note, you are cutting this bevel square to the narrow edge of your board, so you may find you need to mark both top and bottom, and recut through from the bottom to get all the way through the board. These cuts need to be flat (and straight), so they will fit against the top board flush and tightly.\\n1-6. Cut the back or top board of your horse, which will be sawed square on both ends, about 42-48 inches (107-122cm) long.\\nMake a mark an inch or so from each end, and draw a square line to determine where to attach the legs, on both sides.\\n1-7. Lay the back board on a flat surface, whether a work table, on a smooth floor, or even on the tailgate of a pickup truck.\\nPosition your first leg on the square mark made previously, and nail it so the bevel is set tightly against the edge of the top board. Blunting the point of your nails will decrease the likelihood the wood will split when it is nailed, and using an 8d (8 penny) nail for this will give sufficient holding power without passing through both pieces.\\n1-8. Nail both legs on one side of the top board, then flip the assembly over.\\nNail the other two legs opposite to the first pair. You can use larger nails now, since if the points project through, they will go into the back of the first pair of legs and increase the strength of this joint.\\n1-9. Stand your partially assembled horses upright, and measure down from the bottom of your top board about 8 inches (20cm), and using a short board, scribe it to be a horizontal spreader brace to fit between the legs.\\nThe angles on these braces should be roughly degrees 115 top and 65 bottom for total of 180 degrees, but scribing all of the braces in position will provide a better (more exact) fit. Use your scribed brace as a pattern to mark three additional pieces, making sure you have two for each Sawhorse.\\nThe 65 degree angle is called \\\"25 from square\\\" because you can find a 65 angle by marking \\\"25 off from 90\\\" using a tool called a 90 degree \\\"rafter angle square,\\\" or \\\"speed square\\\" or similar instrument.\\n1-10. Nail your braces in place, using two 12d nails in each end, going first through the leg, and into the end-grain of the brace.\\n~ Nail the braces on each pair of legs carefully, making sure they position the legs so the horse stands flat and straight on level ground.~ Nailing these braces out of position will mean the horse will wobble and be unsteady.~ Holding the horse upright and straight while nailing is worth the effort.\\n1-11. Flip the horse back over on its top board, and prop it in place or have someone hold it.\\nCut another board about 18 inches (46cm) long, with a 45 degree angle on one end as the diagonal brace. Hold the angled end against the spreader brace and scribe the other end where it intersects the top board, then cut this mark. Use this piece for your pattern and for a pair of horses, cut 3 more.\\n1-12. Nail these braces in place, with the end cut on a 45 degree angle butted into the spreader brace and nailed through from the brace into the end grain, and the scribed end to the underside of the top board.\\nThis will be nailed across the grain into the bottom of the top board, so use nails that are large enough to get a good bite, at least 12d, and blunt the ends to prevent the wood from splitting.\\n1-13. Check your horses to make sure the legs are equal in length and fit the ground evenly.\\nIf not, you can trim the legs that are long, making sure the top board is parallel to the ground.\\n1-14. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nWhen sawing wood on your horses, setting your saw to the correct depth will make them last much longer.\\nPutting an additional 2x4 flat on top of the horse will give you a 'sacrificial' piece of wood, that you can replace when it gets chewed up by your saw.\\nThe \\\"A\\\" shaped sawbucks for straight handsaws are usually only 20-24\\\" high, allowing the user to kneel on the boards being cut. Adjust the height according to what feels right to you, keeping in mind the length of your saw.\\nWarnings\\nEye protection is recommended when sawing lumber and driving nails.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"One of the most useful tools a carpenter can have in a construction project is a good pair of saw horses (or sawbucks, as they are sometimes called). You can build your own set if you have a circular saw, tape measure, an angle square and a hammer and nails.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a couple of suitable boards for your project.\", \"描述\": \"2X6 nominal southern yellow pine was used for the horses in the illustrations, and was ripped down, or split to make the finished product lighter in weight, but 2X4 (no ripping) using lodgepole or white pine, or spruce will also work. For horses that are to be left outdoors in the weather, it may be worthwhile to buy lumber that is treated to resist rot and insects.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set up a work table or other surface to measure and cut the lumber on.\", \"描述\": \"Since you are building the saw horses, it can be assumed you don't already have a set available, but if you do, of course use them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Rip the lumber\", \"描述\": \"This will reduce the total weight and amount of lumber required by half (compared to 2x6). For using full sized 2X4s, skip this step.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure the length of the legs to a comfortable working height.\", \"描述\": \"For a typical 6 foot (1.8m) tall worker, 34-36 inches (.86-.91m) is about right, for shorter individuals, you may need to adjust the height. It is suggested you build your horses a bit tall, since the legs can be trimmed when they are complete to fit the user.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut a bevel on the first leg when you cut it to length.\", \"描述\": \"For a good spread on the horse's legs, an angle of about 65 degrees from the square line, or 25 degrees from the board's edge should work nicely; those angles do and should total 90 degrees. You will want to note, you are cutting this bevel square to the narrow edge of your board, so you may find you need to mark both top and bottom, and recut through from the bottom to get all the way through the board. These cuts need to be flat (and straight), so they will fit against the top board flush and tightly.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut the back or top board of your horse, which will be sawed square on both ends, about 42-48 inches (107-122cm) long.\", \"描述\": \"Make a mark an inch or so from each end, and draw a square line to determine where to attach the legs, on both sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Lay the back board on a flat surface, whether a work table, on a smooth floor, or even on the tailgate of a pickup truck.\", \"描述\": \"Position your first leg on the square mark made previously, and nail it so the bevel is set tightly against the edge of the top board. Blunting the point of your nails will decrease the likelihood the wood will split when it is nailed, and using an 8d (8 penny) nail for this will give sufficient holding power without passing through both pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Nail both legs on one side of the top board, then flip the assembly over.\", \"描述\": \"Nail the other two legs opposite to the first pair. You can use larger nails now, since if the points project through, they will go into the back of the first pair of legs and increase the strength of this joint.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Stand your partially assembled horses upright, and measure down from the bottom of your top board about 8 inches (20cm), and using a short board, scribe it to be a horizontal spreader brace to fit between the legs.\", \"描述\": \"The angles on these braces should be roughly degrees 115 top and 65 bottom for total of 180 degrees, but scribing all of the braces in position will provide a better (more exact) fit. Use your scribed brace as a pattern to mark three additional pieces, making sure you have two for each Sawhorse.\\nThe 65 degree angle is called \\\"25 from square\\\" because you can find a 65 angle by marking \\\"25 off from 90\\\" using a tool called a 90 degree \\\"rafter angle square,\\\" or \\\"speed square\\\" or similar instrument.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Nail your braces in place, using two 12d nails in each end, going first through the leg, and into the end-grain of the brace.\", \"描述\": \"~ Nail the braces on each pair of legs carefully, making sure they position the legs so the horse stands flat and straight on level ground.~ Nailing these braces out of position will mean the horse will wobble and be unsteady.~ Holding the horse upright and straight while nailing is worth the effort.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Flip the horse back over on its top board, and prop it in place or have someone hold it.\", \"描述\": \"Cut another board about 18 inches (46cm) long, with a 45 degree angle on one end as the diagonal brace. Hold the angled end against the spreader brace and scribe the other end where it intersects the top board, then cut this mark. Use this piece for your pattern and for a pair of horses, cut 3 more.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Nail these braces in place, with the end cut on a 45 degree angle butted into the spreader brace and nailed through from the brace into the end grain, and the scribed end to the underside of the top board.\", \"描述\": \"This will be nailed across the grain into the bottom of the top board, so use nails that are large enough to get a good bite, at least 12d, and blunt the ends to prevent the wood from splitting.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Check your horses to make sure the legs are equal in length and fit the ground evenly.\", \"描述\": \"If not, you can trim the legs that are long, making sure the top board is parallel to the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"When sawing wood on your horses, setting your saw to the correct depth will make them last much longer.\\n\", \"Putting an additional 2x4 flat on top of the horse will give you a 'sacrificial' piece of wood, that you can replace when it gets chewed up by your saw.\\n\", \"The \\\"A\\\" shaped sawbucks for straight handsaws are usually only 20-24\\\" high, allowing the user to kneel on the boards being cut. Adjust the height according to what feels right to you, keeping in mind the length of your saw.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Eye protection is recommended when sawing lumber and driving nails.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,524 |
How to Build a Sawbuck for Cutting Firewood
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1. Steps
1-1. Select the size.
Design the permanent sawbuck to be 6 vertical 2x4's (38 mm x 89 mm) or 2x6s (38 mm x 140mm) of about 4 feet (1.22 meters) long and 4 horizontal 2x6's 5 feet (1.52 meters) long using 3.5 inch (8.89 cm) wood screws or nails. (See "Tips" for information on making a demo/prototype version instead.)Cutting the top "V" form portion at an angle and with a shorter top would make it lighter and more open. Adding a trough or floor, as a retainer like feature, into the top "V" allows for a lower chance of shorter pieces of firewood unexpectedly falling from the inner part of the sawbuck to the ground.
1-2. Place the middle of the "X" a little higher for use with a chainsaw; rather than lower for a bow saw(if you prefer).
1-3. Design your sawbuck/sawhorse by considering various methods shown in the illustrations.
Tailor the design as you desire or require.
1-4. Use suitable boards for your project.
Nominal 2X6s or 2X4s of pine (southern yellow or lodgepole or white), or spruce will be fine.
Decide if it is the taller or shorter height that you think you may want, namely, and cut the "X" pieces about 48 inches (1.22 meters) long.
Adjust the height according to what feels right to you.
1-5. Consider starting with one (the first) "X" temporarily attached together with two nails/screws to see how tall and wide that you want to make it.
Take it apart and angle-cut and trim the angle of the "V" as shown in the photo above. Angled cutting of the "V" and making the upper "arms" shorter than the "legs" will make it less top-heavy. The arms help to hold poles and limbs to be cut on the sawbuck.
1-6. Use this as your pattern for the rest.
Feature: the upper "V" part being deep allows you to nestle and cut two or more narrow poles or tree limbs (around 3 to 8 feet (91.44 cm x 44 meters) in length) for cutting with a chainsaw to chop your firewood at a faster rate.
1-7. Design a lower sawbuck if you would like to use the "X" sawbuck with a hand "bow-saw".
Make the sawbuck about only 20-24" (50.8 cm x 60.9 cm) high to the center. This will allow the user to put a foot on top of the poles or resulting in the split wood being cut when it is that low (as illustrated).
1-8. Design a wide, heavily braced base to give you more stability while handling a chainsaw.
Caution: A lightweight sawbuck might lead to an injury if it falls over while you are cutting. Don't use a smaller sawbuck for chainsaw work.
1-9. To build a non-folding sawbuck, simply connect the "X" forms together, using 4 to 6 nails/screws driven permanently into the near-center of each "X".
2. Folding Sawbuck
2-1. Make the sawbuck fold if you like.
One way to connect the sawbuck together is to use one big bolt of about a 4 inch (10.16 cm) long, and 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) in diameter.
You may find inexpensive [or free] long bolts, and nuts that fit them, on the ground in a self-service, automobile wrecking yard). Put it in the exact same placement at the center of each "X", using extra-large washers, so that it can be clamped together and loosened to fold for storage.
2-2. Consider screwing on a leg spacer-brace on each "X".
Then unscrew the end spacer-brace to allow the "X" to fold.
Long, common bolts are not very expensive- they cost between $1 to $1.50 each at a lumber or hardware store. (But, tempered, hardened, fine threaded bolts cost about 4 to 5 times as much.)
3. Rustic Method
3-1. A simple rough sawbuck or sawhorse may be built in the woods for a camp or lodge.
3-2. The rustic form shown here can be made in the field from available materials, following a similar process but with wooden poles instead.
State parks and such probably do not allow any harvesting of wood, so this - building a sawbuck- is for private land or the untamed wilderness.
Tips
For a sawbuck that is going to remain outdoors no matter the weather, you might choose to prefer lumber that is pressure treated to resist rot and insects.
Possibly start with a demo, "prototype" version: Consider a temporary first version -- perhaps smaller and simpler than it might be ideally, with old scrap lumber from shipping pallets or other 1x4 or 1x6 boards, just to give you the chance to try out a suitable and preferable design and height.
Add some extra bracing near the bottom and across the end of the legs for strength, weight and stability.
Then, in a year or two, try a new improved design with 2x4s or 2x6s.
Warnings
Avoid tipping the sawbuck over due to chainsaw kickback while cutting - the base should be built heavily enough to be stable.
Ordinary head, hearing and eye protection should be adequate protection or as recommended by equipment manufactures when sawing lumber, poles, limbs and/or driving nails.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:02",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Select the size.\\nDesign the permanent sawbuck to be 6 vertical 2x4's (38 mm x 89 mm) or 2x6s (38 mm x 140mm) of about 4 feet (1.22 meters) long and 4 horizontal 2x6's 5 feet (1.52 meters) long using 3.5 inch (8.89 cm) wood screws or nails. (See \\\"Tips\\\" for information on making a demo/prototype version instead.)Cutting the top \\\"V\\\" form portion at an angle and with a shorter top would make it lighter and more open. Adding a trough or floor, as a retainer like feature, into the top \\\"V\\\" allows for a lower chance of shorter pieces of firewood unexpectedly falling from the inner part of the sawbuck to the ground.\\n1-2. Place the middle of the \\\"X\\\" a little higher for use with a chainsaw; rather than lower for a bow saw(if you prefer).\\n\\n1-3. Design your sawbuck/sawhorse by considering various methods shown in the illustrations.\\nTailor the design as you desire or require.\\n1-4. Use suitable boards for your project.\\nNominal 2X6s or 2X4s of pine (southern yellow or lodgepole or white), or spruce will be fine.\\nDecide if it is the taller or shorter height that you think you may want, namely, and cut the \\\"X\\\" pieces about 48 inches (1.22 meters) long.\\nAdjust the height according to what feels right to you.\\n1-5. Consider starting with one (the first) \\\"X\\\" temporarily attached together with two nails/screws to see how tall and wide that you want to make it.\\nTake it apart and angle-cut and trim the angle of the \\\"V\\\" as shown in the photo above. Angled cutting of the \\\"V\\\" and making the upper \\\"arms\\\" shorter than the \\\"legs\\\" will make it less top-heavy. The arms help to hold poles and limbs to be cut on the sawbuck.\\n1-6. Use this as your pattern for the rest.\\nFeature: the upper \\\"V\\\" part being deep allows you to nestle and cut two or more narrow poles or tree limbs (around 3 to 8 feet (91.44 cm x 44 meters) in length) for cutting with a chainsaw to chop your firewood at a faster rate.\\n1-7. Design a lower sawbuck if you would like to use the \\\"X\\\" sawbuck with a hand \\\"bow-saw\\\".\\nMake the sawbuck about only 20-24\\\" (50.8 cm x 60.9 cm) high to the center. This will allow the user to put a foot on top of the poles or resulting in the split wood being cut when it is that low (as illustrated).\\n1-8. Design a wide, heavily braced base to give you more stability while handling a chainsaw.\\nCaution: A lightweight sawbuck might lead to an injury if it falls over while you are cutting. Don't use a smaller sawbuck for chainsaw work.\\n1-9. To build a non-folding sawbuck, simply connect the \\\"X\\\" forms together, using 4 to 6 nails/screws driven permanently into the near-center of each \\\"X\\\".\\n\\n2. Folding Sawbuck\\n2-1. Make the sawbuck fold if you like.\\nOne way to connect the sawbuck together is to use one big bolt of about a 4 inch (10.16 cm) long, and 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) in diameter.\\nYou may find inexpensive [or free] long bolts, and nuts that fit them, on the ground in a self-service, automobile wrecking yard). Put it in the exact same placement at the center of each \\\"X\\\", using extra-large washers, so that it can be clamped together and loosened to fold for storage.\\n2-2. Consider screwing on a leg spacer-brace on each \\\"X\\\".\\nThen unscrew the end spacer-brace to allow the \\\"X\\\" to fold.\\nLong, common bolts are not very expensive- they cost between $1 to $1.50 each at a lumber or hardware store. (But, tempered, hardened, fine threaded bolts cost about 4 to 5 times as much.)\\n3. Rustic Method\\n3-1. A simple rough sawbuck or sawhorse may be built in the woods for a camp or lodge.\\n\\n3-2. The rustic form shown here can be made in the field from available materials, following a similar process but with wooden poles instead.\\nState parks and such probably do not allow any harvesting of wood, so this - building a sawbuck- is for private land or the untamed wilderness.\\nTips\\nFor a sawbuck that is going to remain outdoors no matter the weather, you might choose to prefer lumber that is pressure treated to resist rot and insects.\\nPossibly start with a demo, \\\"prototype\\\" version: Consider a temporary first version -- perhaps smaller and simpler than it might be ideally, with old scrap lumber from shipping pallets or other 1x4 or 1x6 boards, just to give you the chance to try out a suitable and preferable design and height.\\n\\nAdd some extra bracing near the bottom and across the end of the legs for strength, weight and stability.\\nThen, in a year or two, try a new improved design with 2x4s or 2x6s.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid tipping the sawbuck over due to chainsaw kickback while cutting - the base should be built heavily enough to be stable.\\nOrdinary head, hearing and eye protection should be adequate protection or as recommended by equipment manufactures when sawing lumber, poles, limbs and/or driving nails.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"One of the most useful tools for cutting firewood is a good \\\"X\\\" shaped sawbuck.A sawbuck is a special kind of sawhorse framed for holding rough wood so you can saw it into lengths suitable for use in a stove or fireplace.The sawbuck basically consists of two \\\"X\\\" forms -- one at each end -- which may be stabilized by a third (central) \\\"X\\\". The long firewood to be cut is placed in the top (\\\"V\\\") part of the \\\"X\\\" pieces where it may then be sawed.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select the size.\", \"描述\": \"Design the permanent sawbuck to be 6 vertical 2x4's (38 mm x 89 mm) or 2x6s (38 mm x 140mm) of about 4 feet (1.22 meters) long and 4 horizontal 2x6's 5 feet (1.52 meters) long using 3.5 inch (8.89 cm) wood screws or nails. (See \\\"Tips\\\" for information on making a demo/prototype version instead.)Cutting the top \\\"V\\\" form portion at an angle and with a shorter top would make it lighter and more open. Adding a trough or floor, as a retainer like feature, into the top \\\"V\\\" allows for a lower chance of shorter pieces of firewood unexpectedly falling from the inner part of the sawbuck to the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the middle of the \\\"X\\\" a little higher for use with a chainsaw; rather than lower for a bow saw(if you prefer).\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Design your sawbuck/sawhorse by considering various methods shown in the illustrations.\", \"描述\": \"Tailor the design as you desire or require.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use suitable boards for your project.\", \"描述\": \"Nominal 2X6s or 2X4s of pine (southern yellow or lodgepole or white), or spruce will be fine.\\nDecide if it is the taller or shorter height that you think you may want, namely, and cut the \\\"X\\\" pieces about 48 inches (1.22 meters) long.\\nAdjust the height according to what feels right to you.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider starting with one (the first) \\\"X\\\" temporarily attached together with two nails/screws to see how tall and wide that you want to make it.\", \"描述\": \"Take it apart and angle-cut and trim the angle of the \\\"V\\\" as shown in the photo above. Angled cutting of the \\\"V\\\" and making the upper \\\"arms\\\" shorter than the \\\"legs\\\" will make it less top-heavy. The arms help to hold poles and limbs to be cut on the sawbuck.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Use this as your pattern for the rest.\", \"描述\": \"Feature: the upper \\\"V\\\" part being deep allows you to nestle and cut two or more narrow poles or tree limbs (around 3 to 8 feet (91.44 cm x 44 meters) in length) for cutting with a chainsaw to chop your firewood at a faster rate.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Design a lower sawbuck if you would like to use the \\\"X\\\" sawbuck with a hand \\\"bow-saw\\\".\", \"描述\": \"Make the sawbuck about only 20-24\\\" (50.8 cm x 60.9 cm) high to the center. This will allow the user to put a foot on top of the poles or resulting in the split wood being cut when it is that low (as illustrated).\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Design a wide, heavily braced base to give you more stability while handling a chainsaw.\", \"描述\": \"Caution: A lightweight sawbuck might lead to an injury if it falls over while you are cutting. Don't use a smaller sawbuck for chainsaw work.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"To build a non-folding sawbuck, simply connect the \\\"X\\\" forms together, using 4 to 6 nails/screws driven permanently into the near-center of each \\\"X\\\".\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Folding Sawbuck\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make the sawbuck fold if you like.\", \"描述\": \"One way to connect the sawbuck together is to use one big bolt of about a 4 inch (10.16 cm) long, and 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) in diameter.\\nYou may find inexpensive [or free] long bolts, and nuts that fit them, on the ground in a self-service, automobile wrecking yard). Put it in the exact same placement at the center of each \\\"X\\\", using extra-large washers, so that it can be clamped together and loosened to fold for storage.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider screwing on a leg spacer-brace on each \\\"X\\\".\", \"描述\": \"Then unscrew the end spacer-brace to allow the \\\"X\\\" to fold.\\nLong, common bolts are not very expensive- they cost between $1 to $1.50 each at a lumber or hardware store. (But, tempered, hardened, fine threaded bolts cost about 4 to 5 times as much.)\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Rustic Method\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"A simple rough sawbuck or sawhorse may be built in the woods for a camp or lodge.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"The rustic form shown here can be made in the field from available materials, following a similar process but with wooden poles instead.\", \"描述\": \"State parks and such probably do not allow any harvesting of wood, so this - building a sawbuck- is for private land or the untamed wilderness.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"For a sawbuck that is going to remain outdoors no matter the weather, you might choose to prefer lumber that is pressure treated to resist rot and insects.\\n\", \"Possibly start with a demo, \\\"prototype\\\" version: Consider a temporary first version -- perhaps smaller and simpler than it might be ideally, with old scrap lumber from shipping pallets or other 1x4 or 1x6 boards, just to give you the chance to try out a suitable and preferable design and height.\\n\\nAdd some extra bracing near the bottom and across the end of the legs for strength, weight and stability.\\nThen, in a year or two, try a new improved design with 2x4s or 2x6s.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid tipping the sawbuck over due to chainsaw kickback while cutting - the base should be built heavily enough to be stable.\\n\", \"Ordinary head, hearing and eye protection should be adequate protection or as recommended by equipment manufactures when sawing lumber, poles, limbs and/or driving nails.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,525 |
How to Build a Schooling Standard Horse Jump
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1. Assembling the Posts
1-1. Cut an 8 ft (2.4 m) long board in 8 sections of 1 foot (0.30 m).
Use a circular saw to cut a single 8 ft (2.4 m) long 2 in × 8 in (5.1 cm × 20.3 cm) board into 8 equal lengths of 12 in (30 cm) each. Be sure to measure the length with a tape measure before cutting, so you don't cut the boards to the wrong length.
These 8 segments will form the feet of the jump, so they should all be identical in length.
1-2. Position 4 feet around each of your 2 vertical posts.
The 2 posts that form the vertical side pieces of the standard jump will each be made from a 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) 6 ft (1.8 m) pressure-treated post. To keep the 2 posts steady, each will have 4 feet around its base. Stand each of the posts upright, and place 1 foot against each side of its base.
Situate the butt of 1 foot flush with 1 edge of the post. Place the second foot so it butts up against the first, the third so it butt up against the second, and the fourth so it butts up against the third.
Think of the feet positioning like hands on a clock. Each of the 2 high posts will have a foot located at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Visually, they'll more or less resemble a pinwheel pattern.
1-3. Screw the feet onto the bottom of the posts with 4 deck screws per foot.
Once the feet are in place, you're ready to attach them to the vertical poles. On all 4 feet, set each of the 4 screws in at least ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the outer edge of the post. A power drill is the most efficient tool for the job. Place a Philips head bit on the drill, and screw each of the deck screws firmly into place.
You'll need 32 deck screws total. Deck screws are a little more expensive than other kinds of screws, but won't deteriorate in pressure-treated lumber.
2. Marking and Drilling the Vertical Poles
2-1. Mark 9 lines at 3 in (7.6 cm) intervals up one of the posts.
Make sure that the 2 posts are standing on a level, flat surface. Then, use a tape measure to measure up the post 18 in (46 cm) from the ground. Use your pencil to make a mark on one of the flat sides of the post. Using the level, draw a horizontal line through the mark. Draw another line at the same height on the opposite side of the post. Then, continue measuring up the post in 3 in (7.6 cm) intervals until you've marked 9 lines.
Repeat the process on the second vertical post by measuring and marking lines first at 18 in (46 cm) and then at intervals of 3 in (7.6 cm) until you have drawn 9 lines.
These marks must be completely level and centered or your jump cups won't fit correctly into the posts.
When you've finished, the 2 posts should each have 9 lines marked around them at the same heights.
2-2. Mark the center of each of the 9 lines on the posts with an "X.
Measure the width of one of the vertical edges of the post and divide by 2 to find the center. The result should be close to 1.5 in (3.8 cm). Use a pencil to mark an “X” at the center of the lowest line on the post. Then measure the halfway point at the line of the same height on the other side of the post. Make another “X” here.
Make sure to be consistent and mark your “X” markings on the same 2 sides of the post. Do this for each of the 9 lines you've drawn on both posts.
Repeat this process on the second post as well. Keep in mind that, when marking the center of the 9 lines on the second post, you won't need to re-measure the width of the post, since the 2 posts are the same size.
2-3. Drill holes straight through the 9 sets of “X” marks on both posts.
Set a ⁄2 inch (13 mm) drill bit in your power drill. Then, position your drill bit against the first of your “X” markings on 1 of the posts. Hold the drill level, and drill straight through the post. Drill slowly for the sake of accuracy, and aim the drill bit for the “X” on the back side of the post. Drill 9 holes: 1 through each set of “X” marks you drew.
Then, repeat the process and drill 9 more holes through the second post. As with the first post, hold the point of the drill bit in the center of an “X” mark, keep the bit level, and drill straight through the post.
Make sure that the holes you drill through the posts are all on the same 2 sides. None of the drilled holes should be perpendicular to each other.
3. Finishing the Jump Standards
3-1. Place the plastic jump cups into the holes you drilled on each pole.
To complete the jump, you'll need 2 jump cups: 1 for each of the 2 poles. Each jump cup will have 2 ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plastic nubs that you can insert into the holes you drilled to hold the cup in place. To clip the jump cups into place around the poles, firmly grasp 1 of the plastic arms in each hand. Spread the jump cup apart, slide the nubs into the drilled holes, and then release the jump cup so that the nubs slide securely into the holes.
The jump cups will hold the bar at the height you select loosely enough that, should your horses' hooves collide with the bar, it'll easily fall from the cups.
3-2. Set a 6 ft (1.8 m) PVC pipe in the jump cups.
Only do this when you're planning to jump your horse. Begin by setting the 2 posts 6 feet (1.8 m) apart. Set the jump cups to the height you want, and set the PVC pipe in position so that 1 end of the PVC pipe is in each of the 2 jump cups. Make sure that both jump cups are at the same height, or the PVC will be uneven.
A PVC pipe is light enough that, should your horse miss the jump and hit its hooves or knees against the bar, it won't injure itself.
If you're concerned that PVC is too light, use landscaping timbers as a heavier alternative.
3-3. Apply 2-3 coats of white exterior house paint to the wooden surfaces.
To give the jump a more polished look, dip a 3 in (7.6 cm) paint brush into a can of white paint. Work in long, vertical strokes to apply the paint to all of the wooden surfaces of your standard jump. These include the 2 vertical posts and the 8 feet. Not only will the white paint make the jump look nice, it will also make it easier for your horse to see as it prepares to leap over it.
If you prefer not to paint the jump, try applying a coat of stain instead. This will still protect the wood from the elements but won't flake off with time.
Tips
Some power drills have a small level built into them. These aren't very reliable, as the vibration of the drill creates too much disturbance. Even if you have a drill with a build-in level, measure around your poles and mark the level lines in pencil. This will ensure that you get usable holes.
Companies that make jump standards use a drill press which automatically makes a level, centered hole. Since you're using a hand-held drill, you'll need to level the holes manually.
Warnings
Do not use PVC pipes as poles. Although they're sturdy and easy to work with, they can be dangerous to your horse. When PVC, breaks it creates sharp spears that could stab your horse!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:02",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling the Posts\\n1-1. Cut an 8 ft (2.4 m) long board in 8 sections of 1 foot (0.30 m).\\nUse a circular saw to cut a single 8 ft (2.4 m) long 2 in × 8 in (5.1 cm × 20.3 cm) board into 8 equal lengths of 12 in (30 cm) each. Be sure to measure the length with a tape measure before cutting, so you don't cut the boards to the wrong length.\\nThese 8 segments will form the feet of the jump, so they should all be identical in length.\\n1-2. Position 4 feet around each of your 2 vertical posts.\\nThe 2 posts that form the vertical side pieces of the standard jump will each be made from a 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) 6 ft (1.8 m) pressure-treated post. To keep the 2 posts steady, each will have 4 feet around its base. Stand each of the posts upright, and place 1 foot against each side of its base.\\nSituate the butt of 1 foot flush with 1 edge of the post. Place the second foot so it butts up against the first, the third so it butt up against the second, and the fourth so it butts up against the third.\\nThink of the feet positioning like hands on a clock. Each of the 2 high posts will have a foot located at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Visually, they'll more or less resemble a pinwheel pattern.\\n1-3. Screw the feet onto the bottom of the posts with 4 deck screws per foot.\\nOnce the feet are in place, you're ready to attach them to the vertical poles. On all 4 feet, set each of the 4 screws in at least ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the outer edge of the post. A power drill is the most efficient tool for the job. Place a Philips head bit on the drill, and screw each of the deck screws firmly into place.\\nYou'll need 32 deck screws total. Deck screws are a little more expensive than other kinds of screws, but won't deteriorate in pressure-treated lumber.\\n2. Marking and Drilling the Vertical Poles\\n2-1. Mark 9 lines at 3 in (7.6 cm) intervals up one of the posts.\\nMake sure that the 2 posts are standing on a level, flat surface. Then, use a tape measure to measure up the post 18 in (46 cm) from the ground. Use your pencil to make a mark on one of the flat sides of the post. Using the level, draw a horizontal line through the mark. Draw another line at the same height on the opposite side of the post. Then, continue measuring up the post in 3 in (7.6 cm) intervals until you've marked 9 lines.\\nRepeat the process on the second vertical post by measuring and marking lines first at 18 in (46 cm) and then at intervals of 3 in (7.6 cm) until you have drawn 9 lines.\\nThese marks must be completely level and centered or your jump cups won't fit correctly into the posts.\\nWhen you've finished, the 2 posts should each have 9 lines marked around them at the same heights.\\n2-2. Mark the center of each of the 9 lines on the posts with an \\\"X.\\nMeasure the width of one of the vertical edges of the post and divide by 2 to find the center. The result should be close to 1.5 in (3.8 cm). Use a pencil to mark an “X” at the center of the lowest line on the post. Then measure the halfway point at the line of the same height on the other side of the post. Make another “X” here.\\nMake sure to be consistent and mark your “X” markings on the same 2 sides of the post. Do this for each of the 9 lines you've drawn on both posts.\\nRepeat this process on the second post as well. Keep in mind that, when marking the center of the 9 lines on the second post, you won't need to re-measure the width of the post, since the 2 posts are the same size.\\n2-3. Drill holes straight through the 9 sets of “X” marks on both posts.\\nSet a ⁄2 inch (13 mm) drill bit in your power drill. Then, position your drill bit against the first of your “X” markings on 1 of the posts. Hold the drill level, and drill straight through the post. Drill slowly for the sake of accuracy, and aim the drill bit for the “X” on the back side of the post. Drill 9 holes: 1 through each set of “X” marks you drew.\\nThen, repeat the process and drill 9 more holes through the second post. As with the first post, hold the point of the drill bit in the center of an “X” mark, keep the bit level, and drill straight through the post.\\nMake sure that the holes you drill through the posts are all on the same 2 sides. None of the drilled holes should be perpendicular to each other.\\n3. Finishing the Jump Standards\\n3-1. Place the plastic jump cups into the holes you drilled on each pole.\\nTo complete the jump, you'll need 2 jump cups: 1 for each of the 2 poles. Each jump cup will have 2 ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plastic nubs that you can insert into the holes you drilled to hold the cup in place. To clip the jump cups into place around the poles, firmly grasp 1 of the plastic arms in each hand. Spread the jump cup apart, slide the nubs into the drilled holes, and then release the jump cup so that the nubs slide securely into the holes.\\nThe jump cups will hold the bar at the height you select loosely enough that, should your horses' hooves collide with the bar, it'll easily fall from the cups.\\n3-2. Set a 6 ft (1.8 m) PVC pipe in the jump cups.\\nOnly do this when you're planning to jump your horse. Begin by setting the 2 posts 6 feet (1.8 m) apart. Set the jump cups to the height you want, and set the PVC pipe in position so that 1 end of the PVC pipe is in each of the 2 jump cups. Make sure that both jump cups are at the same height, or the PVC will be uneven.\\nA PVC pipe is light enough that, should your horse miss the jump and hit its hooves or knees against the bar, it won't injure itself.\\nIf you're concerned that PVC is too light, use landscaping timbers as a heavier alternative.\\n3-3. Apply 2-3 coats of white exterior house paint to the wooden surfaces.\\nTo give the jump a more polished look, dip a 3 in (7.6 cm) paint brush into a can of white paint. Work in long, vertical strokes to apply the paint to all of the wooden surfaces of your standard jump. These include the 2 vertical posts and the 8 feet. Not only will the white paint make the jump look nice, it will also make it easier for your horse to see as it prepares to leap over it.\\nIf you prefer not to paint the jump, try applying a coat of stain instead. This will still protect the wood from the elements but won't flake off with time.\\nTips\\nSome power drills have a small level built into them. These aren't very reliable, as the vibration of the drill creates too much disturbance. Even if you have a drill with a build-in level, measure around your poles and mark the level lines in pencil. This will ensure that you get usable holes.\\nCompanies that make jump standards use a drill press which automatically makes a level, centered hole. Since you're using a hand-held drill, you'll need to level the holes manually.\\nWarnings\\nDo not use PVC pipes as poles. Although they're sturdy and easy to work with, they can be dangerous to your horse. When PVC, breaks it creates sharp spears that could stab your horse!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A schooling jump standard is a common type of equestrian jump that comprises 2 vertical beams, a crossbar, and feet to support the vertical beams. If you own or work with horses and would like them to be able to jump as part of their regular arena training, building your own pair of schooling standard jumps is a practical idea. All of the supplies you'll need should be available at a local hardware store. This is a relatively cheap and easy process; it shouldn't cost more than $30 USD and will only take up an afternoon.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Posts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut an 8 ft (2.4 m) long board in 8 sections of 1 foot (0.30 m).\", \"描述\": \"Use a circular saw to cut a single 8 ft (2.4 m) long 2 in × 8 in (5.1 cm × 20.3 cm) board into 8 equal lengths of 12 in (30 cm) each. Be sure to measure the length with a tape measure before cutting, so you don't cut the boards to the wrong length.\\nThese 8 segments will form the feet of the jump, so they should all be identical in length.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Position 4 feet around each of your 2 vertical posts.\", \"描述\": \"The 2 posts that form the vertical side pieces of the standard jump will each be made from a 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) 6 ft (1.8 m) pressure-treated post. To keep the 2 posts steady, each will have 4 feet around its base. Stand each of the posts upright, and place 1 foot against each side of its base.\\nSituate the butt of 1 foot flush with 1 edge of the post. Place the second foot so it butts up against the first, the third so it butt up against the second, and the fourth so it butts up against the third.\\nThink of the feet positioning like hands on a clock. Each of the 2 high posts will have a foot located at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Visually, they'll more or less resemble a pinwheel pattern.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw the feet onto the bottom of the posts with 4 deck screws per foot.\", \"描述\": \"Once the feet are in place, you're ready to attach them to the vertical poles. On all 4 feet, set each of the 4 screws in at least ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the outer edge of the post. A power drill is the most efficient tool for the job. Place a Philips head bit on the drill, and screw each of the deck screws firmly into place.\\nYou'll need 32 deck screws total. Deck screws are a little more expensive than other kinds of screws, but won't deteriorate in pressure-treated lumber.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Marking and Drilling the Vertical Poles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark 9 lines at 3 in (7.6 cm) intervals up one of the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the 2 posts are standing on a level, flat surface. Then, use a tape measure to measure up the post 18 in (46 cm) from the ground. Use your pencil to make a mark on one of the flat sides of the post. Using the level, draw a horizontal line through the mark. Draw another line at the same height on the opposite side of the post. Then, continue measuring up the post in 3 in (7.6 cm) intervals until you've marked 9 lines.\\nRepeat the process on the second vertical post by measuring and marking lines first at 18 in (46 cm) and then at intervals of 3 in (7.6 cm) until you have drawn 9 lines.\\nThese marks must be completely level and centered or your jump cups won't fit correctly into the posts.\\nWhen you've finished, the 2 posts should each have 9 lines marked around them at the same heights.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark the center of each of the 9 lines on the posts with an \\\"X.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the width of one of the vertical edges of the post and divide by 2 to find the center. The result should be close to 1.5 in (3.8 cm). Use a pencil to mark an “X” at the center of the lowest line on the post. Then measure the halfway point at the line of the same height on the other side of the post. Make another “X” here.\\nMake sure to be consistent and mark your “X” markings on the same 2 sides of the post. Do this for each of the 9 lines you've drawn on both posts.\\nRepeat this process on the second post as well. Keep in mind that, when marking the center of the 9 lines on the second post, you won't need to re-measure the width of the post, since the 2 posts are the same size.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill holes straight through the 9 sets of “X” marks on both posts.\", \"描述\": \"Set a ⁄2 inch (13 mm) drill bit in your power drill. Then, position your drill bit against the first of your “X” markings on 1 of the posts. Hold the drill level, and drill straight through the post. Drill slowly for the sake of accuracy, and aim the drill bit for the “X” on the back side of the post. Drill 9 holes: 1 through each set of “X” marks you drew.\\nThen, repeat the process and drill 9 more holes through the second post. As with the first post, hold the point of the drill bit in the center of an “X” mark, keep the bit level, and drill straight through the post.\\nMake sure that the holes you drill through the posts are all on the same 2 sides. None of the drilled holes should be perpendicular to each other.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Jump Standards\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the plastic jump cups into the holes you drilled on each pole.\", \"描述\": \"To complete the jump, you'll need 2 jump cups: 1 for each of the 2 poles. Each jump cup will have 2 ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plastic nubs that you can insert into the holes you drilled to hold the cup in place. To clip the jump cups into place around the poles, firmly grasp 1 of the plastic arms in each hand. Spread the jump cup apart, slide the nubs into the drilled holes, and then release the jump cup so that the nubs slide securely into the holes.\\nThe jump cups will hold the bar at the height you select loosely enough that, should your horses' hooves collide with the bar, it'll easily fall from the cups.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set a 6 ft (1.8 m) PVC pipe in the jump cups.\", \"描述\": \"Only do this when you're planning to jump your horse. Begin by setting the 2 posts 6 feet (1.8 m) apart. Set the jump cups to the height you want, and set the PVC pipe in position so that 1 end of the PVC pipe is in each of the 2 jump cups. Make sure that both jump cups are at the same height, or the PVC will be uneven.\\nA PVC pipe is light enough that, should your horse miss the jump and hit its hooves or knees against the bar, it won't injure itself.\\nIf you're concerned that PVC is too light, use landscaping timbers as a heavier alternative.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Apply 2-3 coats of white exterior house paint to the wooden surfaces.\", \"描述\": \"To give the jump a more polished look, dip a 3 in (7.6 cm) paint brush into a can of white paint. Work in long, vertical strokes to apply the paint to all of the wooden surfaces of your standard jump. These include the 2 vertical posts and the 8 feet. Not only will the white paint make the jump look nice, it will also make it easier for your horse to see as it prepares to leap over it.\\nIf you prefer not to paint the jump, try applying a coat of stain instead. This will still protect the wood from the elements but won't flake off with time.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Some power drills have a small level built into them. These aren't very reliable, as the vibration of the drill creates too much disturbance. Even if you have a drill with a build-in level, measure around your poles and mark the level lines in pencil. This will ensure that you get usable holes.\\n\", \"Companies that make jump standards use a drill press which automatically makes a level, centered hole. Since you're using a hand-held drill, you'll need to level the holes manually.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not use PVC pipes as poles. Although they're sturdy and easy to work with, they can be dangerous to your horse. When PVC, breaks it creates sharp spears that could stab your horse!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,526 |
How to Build a Seawall
|
1. Making Arrangements to Build
1-1. Survey the area.
Walk along the area where you intend to build your seawall, carrying a tape measure, notepad, and pen. Use the tape measure to track the length you need to achieve. Use the pad and pen to sketch a rough outline of your shore, taking special note of any changes in elevation or sharp curves. Finally, use spray paint to mark off 8' (2.43m) intervals where you will place your poles.
1-2. Track the high water mark.
Once you know the exact location of your seawall, you can use existing rocks, posts, or other landmarks to track the height of the water. You must measure the high water mark for at least one month, during the highest tide of the day. This data will determine how high your seawall needs to be. The wall described here will be 2' (60.96cm) above ground.
1-3. Research local regulations.
Depending on the body of water you are building on, as well as the county, state, and/or country you find yourself in, there may be regulations governing what you can build. In some cases, you may need to obtain a permit, or have the area inspected before you can begin. Contact your local town, city, or county offices to determine the rules for building a seawall in your area. If necessary, obtain the proper permits.
1-4. Gather supplies.
To build this seawall, you are going to need some supplies, as well as some heavy machinery. The exact amounts you need will vary depending on the length of your seawall. All supplies can be purchased at a home improvement store. Look for a heavy machinery rental location near you. You will need:
Metal pipes, 4’ long (1.21m), 3” (7.62cm) diameter, one every 8’ (2.43m)
2 x 12” (5.08 x 2.54cm) treated lumber, 10’ long (3.04m), 2 boards between each set of poles
Threaded rebar, 4 - 10” (25.4cm) pieces per metal pipe
Quick-drying concrete
Galvanized nuts and washers, 8 sets per metal pipe
Circular saw
Drill
Jackhammer
2. Setting Your Poles
2-1. Prepare metal pipes.
To begin, you are going to need to weld 4 pieces of U-shaped rebar onto each of your metal pipes (with the pipe fitting in to the “U”). You can weld these yourself, or take them to a shop.
The first piece of rebar should be 4” (10.16cm) from the top of the pipe.
The second piece should 4” (10.16cm) below that.
The third should be 8” (20.32cm) below.
The fourth should be 4” (10.16cm) inches below.
2-2. Dig holes.
Digging the holes can be the most challenging part depending on the material you will be digging into. Each hole needs to be at least 2’ (60.96) deep and 10” (25.4cm) wide. Use a jackhammer to dig one hole for each metal post.
If you do not have experience using a jackhammer, it is best to hire someone to help you.
2-3. Set poles.
Position each of your poles into the holes that have been dug for them. Using a level, try to make sure that your posts are even and uniform with one another. Use your jackhammer to adjust the depth of the holes, if need be.
2-4. Pour concrete.
Once your poles are properly positioned, pour enough quick-drying cement to completely fill each hole. Allow 24 hours for the concrete to set.
If your holes are filled with water, you will need to use a sub-pump (or simply a bucket) to remove the water before adding concrete.
3. Installing Lumber
3-1. Cutting your lumber.
Now you will measure and cut your boards. Your wooden boards are 10’ (3.04m) long. You will 2 of these to fill each (approximately) 2 x 8’ (60.96 x 243.8cm) space between each set of poles.
You metal poles are all 4’ (1.21m) long, with half of each buried in the ground.
It will require 2 - 2’ x12” (5.08 x 2.54cm) boards to fill this space.
Use a circular saw to cut these boards (originally 10’/3.04m long) to the proper length (approximately 8’/2.43m).
Even though you set your poles 8’ (2.43m) apart, it is important to measure each space and each board individually before cutting.
Changes in the shoreline can cause discrepancies.
3-2. Drill holes for rebar.
Now you will line up each board with each set of poles and mark the locations where you will drill holes for the rebar to pass through. Each board will have 2 holes drilled on either side. Once again, be sure to specifically measure each board to each piece of rebar before you drill.
3-3. Install boards.
Fit the boards onto the poles by sliding each piece of rebar into the hole that has been drilled for it. This is not so easy, and will require at least 2 people. Install your lumber so that it is flush with the post. Then twist a nut and washer onto each piece of rebar to secure it.
You may need to bend or reposition the rebar in order to make it fit through the holes in your lumber.
You can accomplish this by sliding a 2-foot piece of hollow conduit over each piece of rebar, using it to bend the rebar to fit.
At the end of the project, you may want to remove excess rebar with a reciprocating saw.
3-4. Fill in the land side.
Fill in the land side of your seawall with rocks and large gravel, to allow for adequate drainage. Cover these rocks with sand, and finally finish with a layer of topsoil.
3-5. Maintaining your seawall.
It is an excellent idea to provide annual maintenance to your existing seawall. Look for broken, cracked, or rotten boards. Remove the nuts, remove the boards, and replace them with fresh wood. Your metal posts should remain in tact for 5 or more years. If they become loose, they may need to be replaced as well.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:02",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making Arrangements to Build\\n1-1. Survey the area.\\nWalk along the area where you intend to build your seawall, carrying a tape measure, notepad, and pen. Use the tape measure to track the length you need to achieve. Use the pad and pen to sketch a rough outline of your shore, taking special note of any changes in elevation or sharp curves. Finally, use spray paint to mark off 8' (2.43m) intervals where you will place your poles.\\n1-2. Track the high water mark.\\nOnce you know the exact location of your seawall, you can use existing rocks, posts, or other landmarks to track the height of the water. You must measure the high water mark for at least one month, during the highest tide of the day. This data will determine how high your seawall needs to be. The wall described here will be 2' (60.96cm) above ground.\\n1-3. Research local regulations.\\nDepending on the body of water you are building on, as well as the county, state, and/or country you find yourself in, there may be regulations governing what you can build. In some cases, you may need to obtain a permit, or have the area inspected before you can begin. Contact your local town, city, or county offices to determine the rules for building a seawall in your area. If necessary, obtain the proper permits.\\n1-4. Gather supplies.\\nTo build this seawall, you are going to need some supplies, as well as some heavy machinery. The exact amounts you need will vary depending on the length of your seawall. All supplies can be purchased at a home improvement store. Look for a heavy machinery rental location near you. You will need:\\nMetal pipes, 4’ long (1.21m), 3” (7.62cm) diameter, one every 8’ (2.43m)\\n2 x 12” (5.08 x 2.54cm) treated lumber, 10’ long (3.04m), 2 boards between each set of poles\\nThreaded rebar, 4 - 10” (25.4cm) pieces per metal pipe\\nQuick-drying concrete\\nGalvanized nuts and washers, 8 sets per metal pipe\\nCircular saw\\nDrill\\nJackhammer\\n2. Setting Your Poles\\n2-1. Prepare metal pipes.\\nTo begin, you are going to need to weld 4 pieces of U-shaped rebar onto each of your metal pipes (with the pipe fitting in to the “U”). You can weld these yourself, or take them to a shop.\\nThe first piece of rebar should be 4” (10.16cm) from the top of the pipe.\\nThe second piece should 4” (10.16cm) below that.\\nThe third should be 8” (20.32cm) below.\\nThe fourth should be 4” (10.16cm) inches below.\\n2-2. Dig holes.\\nDigging the holes can be the most challenging part depending on the material you will be digging into. Each hole needs to be at least 2’ (60.96) deep and 10” (25.4cm) wide. Use a jackhammer to dig one hole for each metal post.\\nIf you do not have experience using a jackhammer, it is best to hire someone to help you.\\n2-3. Set poles.\\nPosition each of your poles into the holes that have been dug for them. Using a level, try to make sure that your posts are even and uniform with one another. Use your jackhammer to adjust the depth of the holes, if need be.\\n2-4. Pour concrete.\\nOnce your poles are properly positioned, pour enough quick-drying cement to completely fill each hole. Allow 24 hours for the concrete to set.\\nIf your holes are filled with water, you will need to use a sub-pump (or simply a bucket) to remove the water before adding concrete.\\n3. Installing Lumber\\n3-1. Cutting your lumber.\\nNow you will measure and cut your boards. Your wooden boards are 10’ (3.04m) long. You will 2 of these to fill each (approximately) 2 x 8’ (60.96 x 243.8cm) space between each set of poles.\\nYou metal poles are all 4’ (1.21m) long, with half of each buried in the ground.\\nIt will require 2 - 2’ x12” (5.08 x 2.54cm) boards to fill this space.\\nUse a circular saw to cut these boards (originally 10’/3.04m long) to the proper length (approximately 8’/2.43m).\\nEven though you set your poles 8’ (2.43m) apart, it is important to measure each space and each board individually before cutting.\\nChanges in the shoreline can cause discrepancies.\\n3-2. Drill holes for rebar.\\nNow you will line up each board with each set of poles and mark the locations where you will drill holes for the rebar to pass through. Each board will have 2 holes drilled on either side. Once again, be sure to specifically measure each board to each piece of rebar before you drill.\\n3-3. Install boards.\\nFit the boards onto the poles by sliding each piece of rebar into the hole that has been drilled for it. This is not so easy, and will require at least 2 people. Install your lumber so that it is flush with the post. Then twist a nut and washer onto each piece of rebar to secure it.\\nYou may need to bend or reposition the rebar in order to make it fit through the holes in your lumber.\\nYou can accomplish this by sliding a 2-foot piece of hollow conduit over each piece of rebar, using it to bend the rebar to fit.\\nAt the end of the project, you may want to remove excess rebar with a reciprocating saw.\\n3-4. Fill in the land side.\\nFill in the land side of your seawall with rocks and large gravel, to allow for adequate drainage. Cover these rocks with sand, and finally finish with a layer of topsoil.\\n3-5. Maintaining your seawall.\\nIt is an excellent idea to provide annual maintenance to your existing seawall. Look for broken, cracked, or rotten boards. Remove the nuts, remove the boards, and replace them with fresh wood. Your metal posts should remain in tact for 5 or more years. If they become loose, they may need to be replaced as well.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Erosion poses a serious threat to any waterfront property owner. Although some waterfronts may come equipped with seawalls, responsibility for the maintenance, repair, and replacement of seawalls often falls on the property owner. Seawalls are often built from stone, concrete, plastic membranes, or other materials. For a do-it-yourself seawall, using wooden planks set by metal poles is your best choice. You’ll begin by making a series of measurements and arrangements, move to on setting your poles, and finally, you will install your lumber and finish the job. Building a seawall is a big job, and it will require the use of some heavy machinery.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making Arrangements to Build\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Survey the area.\", \"描述\": \"Walk along the area where you intend to build your seawall, carrying a tape measure, notepad, and pen. Use the tape measure to track the length you need to achieve. Use the pad and pen to sketch a rough outline of your shore, taking special note of any changes in elevation or sharp curves. Finally, use spray paint to mark off 8' (2.43m) intervals where you will place your poles.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Track the high water mark.\", \"描述\": \"Once you know the exact location of your seawall, you can use existing rocks, posts, or other landmarks to track the height of the water. You must measure the high water mark for at least one month, during the highest tide of the day. This data will determine how high your seawall needs to be. The wall described here will be 2' (60.96cm) above ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Research local regulations.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the body of water you are building on, as well as the county, state, and/or country you find yourself in, there may be regulations governing what you can build. In some cases, you may need to obtain a permit, or have the area inspected before you can begin. Contact your local town, city, or county offices to determine the rules for building a seawall in your area. If necessary, obtain the proper permits.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Gather supplies.\", \"描述\": \"To build this seawall, you are going to need some supplies, as well as some heavy machinery. The exact amounts you need will vary depending on the length of your seawall. All supplies can be purchased at a home improvement store. Look for a heavy machinery rental location near you. You will need:\\nMetal pipes, 4’ long (1.21m), 3” (7.62cm) diameter, one every 8’ (2.43m)\\n2 x 12” (5.08 x 2.54cm) treated lumber, 10’ long (3.04m), 2 boards between each set of poles\\nThreaded rebar, 4 - 10” (25.4cm) pieces per metal pipe\\nQuick-drying concrete\\nGalvanized nuts and washers, 8 sets per metal pipe\\nCircular saw\\nDrill\\nJackhammer\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Setting Your Poles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare metal pipes.\", \"描述\": \"To begin, you are going to need to weld 4 pieces of U-shaped rebar onto each of your metal pipes (with the pipe fitting in to the “U”). You can weld these yourself, or take them to a shop.\\nThe first piece of rebar should be 4” (10.16cm) from the top of the pipe.\\nThe second piece should 4” (10.16cm) below that.\\nThe third should be 8” (20.32cm) below.\\nThe fourth should be 4” (10.16cm) inches below.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig holes.\", \"描述\": \"Digging the holes can be the most challenging part depending on the material you will be digging into. Each hole needs to be at least 2’ (60.96) deep and 10” (25.4cm) wide. Use a jackhammer to dig one hole for each metal post.\\nIf you do not have experience using a jackhammer, it is best to hire someone to help you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set poles.\", \"描述\": \"Position each of your poles into the holes that have been dug for them. Using a level, try to make sure that your posts are even and uniform with one another. Use your jackhammer to adjust the depth of the holes, if need be.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pour concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Once your poles are properly positioned, pour enough quick-drying cement to completely fill each hole. Allow 24 hours for the concrete to set.\\nIf your holes are filled with water, you will need to use a sub-pump (or simply a bucket) to remove the water before adding concrete.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing Lumber\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cutting your lumber.\", \"描述\": \"Now you will measure and cut your boards. Your wooden boards are 10’ (3.04m) long. You will 2 of these to fill each (approximately) 2 x 8’ (60.96 x 243.8cm) space between each set of poles.\\nYou metal poles are all 4’ (1.21m) long, with half of each buried in the ground.\\nIt will require 2 - 2’ x12” (5.08 x 2.54cm) boards to fill this space.\\nUse a circular saw to cut these boards (originally 10’/3.04m long) to the proper length (approximately 8’/2.43m).\\nEven though you set your poles 8’ (2.43m) apart, it is important to measure each space and each board individually before cutting.\\nChanges in the shoreline can cause discrepancies.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill holes for rebar.\", \"描述\": \"Now you will line up each board with each set of poles and mark the locations where you will drill holes for the rebar to pass through. Each board will have 2 holes drilled on either side. Once again, be sure to specifically measure each board to each piece of rebar before you drill.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install boards.\", \"描述\": \"Fit the boards onto the poles by sliding each piece of rebar into the hole that has been drilled for it. This is not so easy, and will require at least 2 people. Install your lumber so that it is flush with the post. Then twist a nut and washer onto each piece of rebar to secure it.\\nYou may need to bend or reposition the rebar in order to make it fit through the holes in your lumber.\\nYou can accomplish this by sliding a 2-foot piece of hollow conduit over each piece of rebar, using it to bend the rebar to fit.\\nAt the end of the project, you may want to remove excess rebar with a reciprocating saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill in the land side.\", \"描述\": \"Fill in the land side of your seawall with rocks and large gravel, to allow for adequate drainage. Cover these rocks with sand, and finally finish with a layer of topsoil.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Maintaining your seawall.\", \"描述\": \"It is an excellent idea to provide annual maintenance to your existing seawall. Look for broken, cracked, or rotten boards. Remove the nuts, remove the boards, and replace them with fresh wood. Your metal posts should remain in tact for 5 or more years. If they become loose, they may need to be replaced as well.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,527 |
How to Build a Secret Laboratory
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1. Basement Method
2. Under the House Method
2-1. Learn something about building foundation engineering.
This doesn't mean get a degree, but what good is a secret lab if it caves in on you, especially if it takes your house with it?
2-2. Build under the house.
If the house doesn't have a basement, but has a foundation, you can cut through the foundation and dig out a new 'basement' for your lab. This is where the engineering knowledge comes in handy. Depending on local laws, this is also likely to be illegal without permits, and very very difficult to get approved for a permit. See How to Dig Out a Basement in an Existing House.
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If the house is a stilt house, there is less hassle in legality, but just as much engineering knowledge required to ensure the house doesn't slump or crumble down around you. Digging out the crawlspace to a decent height for walking around in is the method here.
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2-3. Decide on an entrance method.
Secret door, false closet back wall, 'trap' door in the floor, classic bookshelf-door, stairs or ladder? A ladder takes the least floorspace from your excavation, but makes it very hard to bring in equipment and furniture. Stairs can take up a lot of space, but under-stairs storage can be very handy. Consider putting in two exits.
2-4. Study basement construction techniques, making sure to pay attention to drainage and water penetration issues, as well as construction materials.
Keep in mind that a huge truck pumping large quantities of concrete can be replaced by slow-setting concrete and a lot of endurance mixing it and pouring it yourself. Procrastination is not an option when it comes to cement.
Also study older construction techniques that have held up over the ages. If you have the time and supplies (and strength) you could build a rebar-reinforced granite wall by drilling through large granite blocks and connecting them with rebar through the holes, then seal with concrete. This combination of old and new will yield a strong wall that has a classical dungeon look to it.
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2-5. Obtain necessary materials slowly and inconspicuously, preferably from towns or cities 2 to 4 hours away.
Collect materials in a hidden area, possibly a storage unit rented in a near-neighboring town, under a pseudonym if you can.
2-6. Make sure you have somewhere to put the excavated dirt.
This isn't a video game; dug out dirt doesn't just disappear! Large mounds of dirt in the back yard are sure to raise questions, though if you start a parallel garden makeover and spend time landscaping with the dirt, the questions are answered. More work, but more secrecy. One idea is to build a terraced garden, with levels held back by retaining walls (see How to Build a Dry Stack Retaining Rock Wall).
2-7. Shore up your dirt walls.
Dirt always wants to settle, so make sure it is braced to stay in place as you dig! This is especially important in areas and seasons with a lot of rain. You cannot over-shore!
2-8. Ensure structural support if you are tunneling to make a larger lab than your initial downward hole.
This is related to shoring, but even more important. Failure here can mean death. Tunneling is not recommended unless you are a skilled tunnel engineer used to designing permanent tunnels like subway systems.
2-9. Make sure your walls are structured enough to hold back the dirt, hold up the structure above, and keep each other from falling inwards.
Integrated beams between the walls can help maintain outward structural pressure, sacrificing a little headroom for safety.
2-10. Pour your new lab foundation same as any basement, ensuring a drainage route for flooding.
2-11. Provide power to your lab.
Pull multiple taps off of several existing bedroom circuits (if newer wiring) or tap off of the least used house circuit (if older wiring). Know your house wiring techniques before doing any wiring, there are many books on the subject. If your lab power needs are too great for this wiring, get a new circuit installed by a licensed electrician, claiming for a high-power requirement laser printer, electric tankless water heater, new dryer, or power tools, depending on where the circuit will go, then tap off of that.
2-12. Consider plumbing.
While building, you might find yourself face-to-face with the guts of your house's plumbing while digging. If so, you are in luck, as you can quite easily tap off of these lines for source water. If you've also found your sewage line, that's good, but if you are below the level of the sewage line, you'll need to store and pump wastewater up to it. The waste tank will take up some of your precious excavated floorspace, and the pump will take up power. If your experiments need no water, you might consider not plumbing.
2-13. Light your lab.
Consider getting 'daylight' or 'full spectrum' bulbs for to avoid the life-force-sucking effects of normal fluorescent (office) lights. These can be obtained and used with extension cords during the excavation steps, and permanently installed at this step. See How to Make a Windowless Room Appear Light.
2-14. Do any finishing (non-structural) construction you want.
Two-by-Fours and Drywall, paint, workbenches, anti-fatigue mats... whatever you need to make your workspace functional. Bring in your equipment, and discover what knowledge you've been chasing!
3. Secluded Building Method
3-1. Buy a piece of secluded property.
3-2. Hire a contractor to build a standard Butler type metal building with power/comm/utility upgrades.
3-3. Retrofit lab equipment after construction.
4. Island Method
4-1. Buy a private island.
Make sure you have a good budget before considering this.
4-2. Grow some tall plants or even trees around the area you plan to build on.
This is important, since this is supposed to be a SECRET laboratory. If you want to, you can also put a large pond around the area. This can take a while.
4-3. Since you will likely have insufficient funds to build the lab once you have done the above, try saving for about a year or more, depending on how much money you get per week/month on average.
4-4. Once you have recovered your funds, build the laboratory.
Make sure the area is well hidden by the plants/trees, or the pond if you made one. Building the lab underground is likely not an option, since there could be bodies of water underneath the surface.
4-5. If you insist on building underground, dig a hole at least 10 feet (3.0 m) deep.
Make sure that this is allowed, though. If not, you must risk building it on the surface.
4-6. If there is no water and you have dug 10 feet (3.0 m) into the dirt, you're good to go.
If there was water within the depth, building on the ground is your only option, so make sure the plants hide it well.
4-7. Build your lab.
Refer to the other methods for building ideas.
Tips
Have a large budget for this project, especially if you plan on building it on a private island.
If you've got an attic, spare room, or a step-in-wardrobe, then use one of them for a temporary laboratory while you're saving money, planning, or building your actual laboratory.
Don't do this yourself if you are uncertain about any steps. Hire a contractor from a neighboring town, making sure all the people who work for him are not local. Explain that you don't want your neighbors to suspect any work is going on, possibly make up an excuse such as overly sensitive and/or overly nosy neighbors. Also make sure the contractor meets all the legal requirements for your area. Just ask the contractor for an unfinished basement with the power and water needs you expect.
Warnings
Flooding can ruin your lab. You might want to read up on How to Waterproof Your Basement.
Remember, this is not a movie or a game. This is reality. If you happen to find police or a group of agents coming to your lab or island, this is not a good thing. Getting caught may seem exciting and heroic in movies, but in reality it means big trouble for you, and your life may be ruined by it.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:02",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Basement Method\\n2. Under the House Method\\n2-1. Learn something about building foundation engineering.\\nThis doesn't mean get a degree, but what good is a secret lab if it caves in on you, especially if it takes your house with it?\\n2-2. Build under the house.\\nIf the house doesn't have a basement, but has a foundation, you can cut through the foundation and dig out a new 'basement' for your lab. This is where the engineering knowledge comes in handy. Depending on local laws, this is also likely to be illegal without permits, and very very difficult to get approved for a permit. See How to Dig Out a Basement in an Existing House.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/eb\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/eb\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid100307-v4-728px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nIf the house is a stilt house, there is less hassle in legality, but just as much engineering knowledge required to ensure the house doesn't slump or crumble down around you. Digging out the crawlspace to a decent height for walking around in is the method here.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/80\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/80\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid100307-v4-728px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n2-3. Decide on an entrance method.\\nSecret door, false closet back wall, 'trap' door in the floor, classic bookshelf-door, stairs or ladder? A ladder takes the least floorspace from your excavation, but makes it very hard to bring in equipment and furniture. Stairs can take up a lot of space, but under-stairs storage can be very handy. Consider putting in two exits.\\n2-4. Study basement construction techniques, making sure to pay attention to drainage and water penetration issues, as well as construction materials.\\nKeep in mind that a huge truck pumping large quantities of concrete can be replaced by slow-setting concrete and a lot of endurance mixing it and pouring it yourself. Procrastination is not an option when it comes to cement.\\nAlso study older construction techniques that have held up over the ages. If you have the time and supplies (and strength) you could build a rebar-reinforced granite wall by drilling through large granite blocks and connecting them with rebar through the holes, then seal with concrete. This combination of old and new will yield a strong wall that has a classical dungeon look to it.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/bd\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/bd\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid100307-v4-728px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n2-5. Obtain necessary materials slowly and inconspicuously, preferably from towns or cities 2 to 4 hours away.\\nCollect materials in a hidden area, possibly a storage unit rented in a near-neighboring town, under a pseudonym if you can.\\n2-6. Make sure you have somewhere to put the excavated dirt.\\nThis isn't a video game; dug out dirt doesn't just disappear! Large mounds of dirt in the back yard are sure to raise questions, though if you start a parallel garden makeover and spend time landscaping with the dirt, the questions are answered. More work, but more secrecy. One idea is to build a terraced garden, with levels held back by retaining walls (see How to Build a Dry Stack Retaining Rock Wall).\\n2-7. Shore up your dirt walls.\\nDirt always wants to settle, so make sure it is braced to stay in place as you dig! This is especially important in areas and seasons with a lot of rain. You cannot over-shore!\\n2-8. Ensure structural support if you are tunneling to make a larger lab than your initial downward hole.\\nThis is related to shoring, but even more important. Failure here can mean death. Tunneling is not recommended unless you are a skilled tunnel engineer used to designing permanent tunnels like subway systems.\\n2-9. Make sure your walls are structured enough to hold back the dirt, hold up the structure above, and keep each other from falling inwards.\\nIntegrated beams between the walls can help maintain outward structural pressure, sacrificing a little headroom for safety.\\n2-10. Pour your new lab foundation same as any basement, ensuring a drainage route for flooding.\\n\\n2-11. Provide power to your lab.\\nPull multiple taps off of several existing bedroom circuits (if newer wiring) or tap off of the least used house circuit (if older wiring). Know your house wiring techniques before doing any wiring, there are many books on the subject. If your lab power needs are too great for this wiring, get a new circuit installed by a licensed electrician, claiming for a high-power requirement laser printer, electric tankless water heater, new dryer, or power tools, depending on where the circuit will go, then tap off of that.\\n2-12. Consider plumbing.\\nWhile building, you might find yourself face-to-face with the guts of your house's plumbing while digging. If so, you are in luck, as you can quite easily tap off of these lines for source water. If you've also found your sewage line, that's good, but if you are below the level of the sewage line, you'll need to store and pump wastewater up to it. The waste tank will take up some of your precious excavated floorspace, and the pump will take up power. If your experiments need no water, you might consider not plumbing.\\n2-13. Light your lab.\\nConsider getting 'daylight' or 'full spectrum' bulbs for to avoid the life-force-sucking effects of normal fluorescent (office) lights. These can be obtained and used with extension cords during the excavation steps, and permanently installed at this step. See How to Make a Windowless Room Appear Light.\\n2-14. Do any finishing (non-structural) construction you want.\\nTwo-by-Fours and Drywall, paint, workbenches, anti-fatigue mats... whatever you need to make your workspace functional. Bring in your equipment, and discover what knowledge you've been chasing!\\n3. Secluded Building Method\\n3-1. Buy a piece of secluded property.\\n\\n3-2. Hire a contractor to build a standard Butler type metal building with power/comm/utility upgrades.\\n\\n3-3. Retrofit lab equipment after construction.\\n\\n4. Island Method\\n4-1. Buy a private island.\\nMake sure you have a good budget before considering this.\\n4-2. Grow some tall plants or even trees around the area you plan to build on.\\nThis is important, since this is supposed to be a SECRET laboratory. If you want to, you can also put a large pond around the area. This can take a while.\\n4-3. Since you will likely have insufficient funds to build the lab once you have done the above, try saving for about a year or more, depending on how much money you get per week/month on average.\\n\\n4-4. Once you have recovered your funds, build the laboratory.\\nMake sure the area is well hidden by the plants/trees, or the pond if you made one. Building the lab underground is likely not an option, since there could be bodies of water underneath the surface.\\n4-5. If you insist on building underground, dig a hole at least 10 feet (3.0 m) deep.\\nMake sure that this is allowed, though. If not, you must risk building it on the surface.\\n4-6. If there is no water and you have dug 10 feet (3.0 m) into the dirt, you're good to go.\\nIf there was water within the depth, building on the ground is your only option, so make sure the plants hide it well.\\n4-7. Build your lab.\\nRefer to the other methods for building ideas.\\nTips\\nHave a large budget for this project, especially if you plan on building it on a private island.\\nIf you've got an attic, spare room, or a step-in-wardrobe, then use one of them for a temporary laboratory while you're saving money, planning, or building your actual laboratory.\\nDon't do this yourself if you are uncertain about any steps. Hire a contractor from a neighboring town, making sure all the people who work for him are not local. Explain that you don't want your neighbors to suspect any work is going on, possibly make up an excuse such as overly sensitive and/or overly nosy neighbors. Also make sure the contractor meets all the legal requirements for your area. Just ask the contractor for an unfinished basement with the power and water needs you expect.\\nWarnings\\nFlooding can ruin your lab. You might want to read up on How to Waterproof Your Basement.\\nRemember, this is not a movie or a game. This is reality. If you happen to find police or a group of agents coming to your lab or island, this is not a good thing. Getting caught may seem exciting and heroic in movies, but in reality it means big trouble for you, and your life may be ruined by it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"For the mad scientist in all of us. The key to successfully building a secret lab is secrecy! This how-to expects that you absolutely trust the people who live in your house, or the house where the lab is being built. You can't hide it from them. Also, to follow this wikiHow, you'd have to be mad. This isn't safe to do yourself unless you actually know what you are doing, and then you wouldn't be reading this, would you?\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Basement Method\", \"步骤\": []}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Under the House Method\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Learn something about building foundation engineering.\", \"描述\": \"This doesn't mean get a degree, but what good is a secret lab if it caves in on you, especially if it takes your house with it?\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build under the house.\", \"描述\": \"If the house doesn't have a basement, but has a foundation, you can cut through the foundation and dig out a new 'basement' for your lab. This is where the engineering knowledge comes in handy. Depending on local laws, this is also likely to be illegal without permits, and very very difficult to get approved for a permit. See How to Dig Out a Basement in an Existing House.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/eb\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/eb\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid100307-v4-728px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nIf the house is a stilt house, there is less hassle in legality, but just as much engineering knowledge required to ensure the house doesn't slump or crumble down around you. Digging out the crawlspace to a decent height for walking around in is the method here.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/80\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/80\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid100307-v4-728px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide on an entrance method.\", \"描述\": \"Secret door, false closet back wall, 'trap' door in the floor, classic bookshelf-door, stairs or ladder? A ladder takes the least floorspace from your excavation, but makes it very hard to bring in equipment and furniture. Stairs can take up a lot of space, but under-stairs storage can be very handy. Consider putting in two exits.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Study basement construction techniques, making sure to pay attention to drainage and water penetration issues, as well as construction materials.\", \"描述\": \"Keep in mind that a huge truck pumping large quantities of concrete can be replaced by slow-setting concrete and a lot of endurance mixing it and pouring it yourself. Procrastination is not an option when it comes to cement.\\nAlso study older construction techniques that have held up over the ages. If you have the time and supplies (and strength) you could build a rebar-reinforced granite wall by drilling through large granite blocks and connecting them with rebar through the holes, then seal with concrete. This combination of old and new will yield a strong wall that has a classical dungeon look to it.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/bd\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/bd\\\\/Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid100307-v4-728px-Build-a-Secret-Laboratory-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Obtain necessary materials slowly and inconspicuously, preferably from towns or cities 2 to 4 hours away.\", \"描述\": \"Collect materials in a hidden area, possibly a storage unit rented in a near-neighboring town, under a pseudonym if you can.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make sure you have somewhere to put the excavated dirt.\", \"描述\": \"This isn't a video game; dug out dirt doesn't just disappear! Large mounds of dirt in the back yard are sure to raise questions, though if you start a parallel garden makeover and spend time landscaping with the dirt, the questions are answered. More work, but more secrecy. One idea is to build a terraced garden, with levels held back by retaining walls (see How to Build a Dry Stack Retaining Rock Wall).\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Shore up your dirt walls.\", \"描述\": \"Dirt always wants to settle, so make sure it is braced to stay in place as you dig! This is especially important in areas and seasons with a lot of rain. You cannot over-shore!\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Ensure structural support if you are tunneling to make a larger lab than your initial downward hole.\", \"描述\": \"This is related to shoring, but even more important. Failure here can mean death. Tunneling is not recommended unless you are a skilled tunnel engineer used to designing permanent tunnels like subway systems.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Make sure your walls are structured enough to hold back the dirt, hold up the structure above, and keep each other from falling inwards.\", \"描述\": \"Integrated beams between the walls can help maintain outward structural pressure, sacrificing a little headroom for safety.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Pour your new lab foundation same as any basement, ensuring a drainage route for flooding.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Provide power to your lab.\", \"描述\": \"Pull multiple taps off of several existing bedroom circuits (if newer wiring) or tap off of the least used house circuit (if older wiring). Know your house wiring techniques before doing any wiring, there are many books on the subject. If your lab power needs are too great for this wiring, get a new circuit installed by a licensed electrician, claiming for a high-power requirement laser printer, electric tankless water heater, new dryer, or power tools, depending on where the circuit will go, then tap off of that.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Consider plumbing.\", \"描述\": \"While building, you might find yourself face-to-face with the guts of your house's plumbing while digging. If so, you are in luck, as you can quite easily tap off of these lines for source water. If you've also found your sewage line, that's good, but if you are below the level of the sewage line, you'll need to store and pump wastewater up to it. The waste tank will take up some of your precious excavated floorspace, and the pump will take up power. If your experiments need no water, you might consider not plumbing.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Light your lab.\", \"描述\": \"Consider getting 'daylight' or 'full spectrum' bulbs for to avoid the life-force-sucking effects of normal fluorescent (office) lights. These can be obtained and used with extension cords during the excavation steps, and permanently installed at this step. See How to Make a Windowless Room Appear Light.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Do any finishing (non-structural) construction you want.\", \"描述\": \"Two-by-Fours and Drywall, paint, workbenches, anti-fatigue mats... whatever you need to make your workspace functional. Bring in your equipment, and discover what knowledge you've been chasing!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Secluded Building Method\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy a piece of secluded property.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hire a contractor to build a standard Butler type metal building with power/comm/utility upgrades.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Retrofit lab equipment after construction.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Island Method\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy a private island.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you have a good budget before considering this.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Grow some tall plants or even trees around the area you plan to build on.\", \"描述\": \"This is important, since this is supposed to be a SECRET laboratory. If you want to, you can also put a large pond around the area. This can take a while.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Since you will likely have insufficient funds to build the lab once you have done the above, try saving for about a year or more, depending on how much money you get per week/month on average.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Once you have recovered your funds, build the laboratory.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the area is well hidden by the plants/trees, or the pond if you made one. Building the lab underground is likely not an option, since there could be bodies of water underneath the surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"If you insist on building underground, dig a hole at least 10 feet (3.0 m) deep.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that this is allowed, though. If not, you must risk building it on the surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"If there is no water and you have dug 10 feet (3.0 m) into the dirt, you're good to go.\", \"描述\": \"If there was water within the depth, building on the ground is your only option, so make sure the plants hide it well.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Build your lab.\", \"描述\": \"Refer to the other methods for building ideas.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Have a large budget for this project, especially if you plan on building it on a private island.\\n\", \"If you've got an attic, spare room, or a step-in-wardrobe, then use one of them for a temporary laboratory while you're saving money, planning, or building your actual laboratory.\\n\", \"Don't do this yourself if you are uncertain about any steps. Hire a contractor from a neighboring town, making sure all the people who work for him are not local. Explain that you don't want your neighbors to suspect any work is going on, possibly make up an excuse such as overly sensitive and/or overly nosy neighbors. Also make sure the contractor meets all the legal requirements for your area. Just ask the contractor for an unfinished basement with the power and water needs you expect.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Flooding can ruin your lab. You might want to read up on How to Waterproof Your Basement.\\n\", \"Remember, this is not a movie or a game. This is reality. If you happen to find police or a group of agents coming to your lab or island, this is not a good thing. Getting caught may seem exciting and heroic in movies, but in reality it means big trouble for you, and your life may be ruined by it.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,528 |
How to Build a Self Sustaining Ecosystem
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1. Building an Aquatic Ecosystem
1-1. Choose a size for your ecosystem.
If you are new to building ecosystems, you may want to start small. However, the smaller your container, the harder it is to maintain a self-sustaining environment. Larger containers allow for the inclusion of multiple diverse species and give everything room to grow. All containers must be clear to let in light.
A small glass bowl is fast to set up and doesn’t take up much space. While smaller bowls can be more difficult to sustain, they are still manageable for beginners.
Medium aquariums (10–30 gallons (38–114 l)) have more space for growth, but are more expensive and still limited in the size for growth.
Large aquarium (60–200 gallons (230–760 l)) have ample space for growth and diversity and are most likely to be successful; however, they are very expensive and hard to make room for.
1-2. Expose the tank to fluorescent lighting.
Fluorescent lighting is important for the growth of the plants in your ecosystem. It is recommended to provide 2 to 5 watts per 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water for a freshwater aquarium.
Incandescent lighting will not help your plants grow.
1-3. Establish the substrate for the ecosystem.
The substrate is the soil of the aquarium that allows the plants to anchor and grow. It must be properly established before doing anything else to foster an environment of growth and recycling of nutrients.
If using a small bowl, start with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of sand and then add about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of pea gravel on top.
For medium to larger aquariums, start with 2 inches (5.1 cm) of sand and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of pea gravel on top.
Sand and pea gravel can be purchased from a pet store or obtained from a nearby pond.
1-4. Fill the container with water.
The water is important because it will establish the first source of food for the fish and other organisms: algae and microorganisms. You can start with distilled/bottled water, dechlorinated tap water, or water from a previous fish tank or aquarium.
If you use distilled/bottled water or dechlorinated tap water, mix some fish flakes in with the water to encourage growth.
Adding some water from an already established tank will also help growth because it will already have the essential nutrients.
1-5. Purchase a variety of plants.
When choosing plants you want to consider: how fast they grow (how often you’ll have to trim them), the size of the plant, whether they’re edible for fish and snails, and where in the aquarium they will grow (from the bottom, from the surface, from branches). To cultivate a diverse environment, include some of the following:
Bottom growth: hair grass, corkscrew grass, or green rotala
Surface Growth: duckweed, lotus
Branches: crystalwort, java moss, Christmas moss, phoenix moss
You want to make sure the plants are well-established (let them grow and become rooted) before adding fish or snails to the ecosystem.
1-6. Cultivate micro-critters.
The next step in the food chain of your ecosystem is to add micro-critters such as small pond snails, daphnia, and micro-planarians. These will serve as food for all of the fish that don’t eat plants or algae. Aged aquarium media is a good way to seed your tank. This can be purchased at the fish or pet store.
Most of these organisms can’t be seen by the naked eye, but you should wait at least 2 weeks for them to get fully established before adding fish.
1-7. Add fish or shrimp to the system.
Once the plants and microorganisms have been established you can start to introduce larger fish into the tank. You want to start with smaller organisms like a guppy, Endler’s livebearer, or cherry shrimp and only add 1 or 2 at a time. These fish also reproduce quickly and serve as a great diet for larger fish.
If you have a larger aquarium, you can add more and varied fish. Balancing your fish is tricky and takes time. Make sure each species has time to adjust before adding more into the mix.
2. Maintaining an Aquatic Ecosystem
2-1. Change the water.
Aquariums take a bit of maintenance to make sure all of your critters stay alive and well. About every 2 weeks, 10-15% of the water in the tank should be replaced with fresh water. If you are using tap water, let the water sit in an aerated bucket for about 24 hours to allow the chlorine to air out.
Check your local water source to determine if there are heavy metals in your water.
Use filtered water if you are concerned about the quality of your tap water.
2-2. Control algae growth.
A gravel vacuum is a handy tool to have to help control the algae in your aquarium. When you change out the water, vacuum the gravel at the same time to remove algae growth and any uneaten food that may have accumulated.
Clean the aquarium walls with filter floss or a magnetic tank scrubber to keep algae from accumulating on the glass.
Add plants, snails, or daphnia to help control the growth.
2-3. Remove dead fish promptly.
Count your fish at least once a week to determine if any have died. Smaller fish can decompose quickly and cause spikes in nitrite, ammonia, and nitrate levels. These can be harmful to the other fish in your tank. If you see a dead fish, remove it as soon as possible.
Use a test kit to check the levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH. Replace the water if the levels are too high.
The ideal levels vary depending on the type of fish you have, but in general, the ammonia should be between 0.0 to 0.25 mg/L, the nitrite should be less than 0.5 mg/L, the nitrate level should be less than 40 mg/L, and the pH should stay around 6.
3. Building a Terrarium Ecosystem
3-1. Obtain a sealable, large glass jar.
Any sized jar or bottle will be sufficient for your terrarium. A container with a large mouth will make it easier to work inside of. You want to make sure that the container can be properly sealed.
Options include: a candy jar with a heavy lid, a pasta jar, or a mason jar.
Make sure the container is properly washed to remove any residue before using as a terrarium.
3-2. Fill the bottom with pebbles.
The layer of pebbles at the bottom of the jar is to allow water to collect at the bottom and protect the plants from flooding. Add pebbles to a depth of about ⁄2–2 inches (1.3–5.1 cm).
It doesn’t matter what type of rock or pebbles you use. You can even use colorful pebbles from the pet store to make it more exciting.
3-3. Cover the pebbles with a layer of activated charcoal.
The charcoal layer is important to filter out impurities in the water. It helps keep the ecosystem clean and healthy by reducing the burden of bacteria and fungi. You don’t need a thick layer, just enough to cover the rock layer.
Activated charcoal can be purchased at a local pet store.
3-4. Add a ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) layer of peat moss.
On top of the charcoal layer, you will add another layer of peat moss. Peat moss is a nutrient-rich soil that will help hold the water and nutrients necessary for the plants to grow.
Peat moss can be obtained a local nursery.
3-5. Layer potting soil on top of the peat moss.
The final layer before adding the plants is a layer of potting soil. The plants will be able to root in this soil and get the water and nutrients they need from the combination of all of the layers below the potting soil.
Add enough soil for the plants to take root and have room for growth. A depth slightly higher than the pot the plant came in should be good.
Most types of potting soil will be sufficient for this. Succulents and cacti require a special type of soil.
3-6. Add small plants.
Any plant you’d like to add will work in your terrarium, but small plants are recommended. Prepare your plants by removing them from their pots and breaking up the hard soil around their roots. Trim particularly long roots before planting. Dig a small well in the soil with a spoon and place the roots of the plant into the hole. Add a bit of soil on top and pack it down around the plant.
Repeat this process with the rest of your chosen plants taking care to keep the plants away from the edges of the container.
Try to avoid having the leaves touching the sides of the container as much as possible.
Some great plants to start with include moon valley friendship, the nerve plant, variegata, aquamarine, minimus aureus, strawberry begonias, ferns, and mosses.
3-7. Seal the terrarium and place it in indirect sunlight.
Put the lid or cork in place once you’ve added your plants. The terrarium will do well in an area with bright but indirect sunlight. The terrarium will dry out if you place it in an area with lots of direct light, but the plants won’t thrive if the terrarium is always shaded. Opt for an area near a window.
4. Maintaining a Terrarium Ecosystem
4-1. Water the plants only if necessary.
With a sealed system, the terrarium shouldn’t need much maintenance. If you notice it is looking a bit dry, open it up and add a bit of water. Alternatively, if there is a lot of moisture inside, leave the lid off for a day or 2 to let it dry out for a bit.
4-2. Remove bugs if you see any.
There might have been bug eggs in the soil or on your plants. If you notice anything crawling around inside, let it out and then reseal your ecosystem.
4-3. Prune the plants as needed.
With proper sunlight and water, your plants will grow. If the plants get too big for the terrarium, you need to cut them back so it doesn’t get overcrowded. Keep the plants at your desired size so that they continue to thrive.
Remove any dead plants that may have fallen to the bottom.
4-4. Clear out algae and fungus regularly.
If algae or fungus grows on the sides of the glass, you can easily clean it off. Use a piece of soft cloth or a cotton ball to wipe it away so you can clearly see through the glass.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:02",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building an Aquatic Ecosystem\\n1-1. Choose a size for your ecosystem.\\nIf you are new to building ecosystems, you may want to start small. However, the smaller your container, the harder it is to maintain a self-sustaining environment. Larger containers allow for the inclusion of multiple diverse species and give everything room to grow. All containers must be clear to let in light. \\nA small glass bowl is fast to set up and doesn’t take up much space. While smaller bowls can be more difficult to sustain, they are still manageable for beginners.\\nMedium aquariums (10–30 gallons (38–114 l)) have more space for growth, but are more expensive and still limited in the size for growth.\\nLarge aquarium (60–200 gallons (230–760 l)) have ample space for growth and diversity and are most likely to be successful; however, they are very expensive and hard to make room for.\\n1-2. Expose the tank to fluorescent lighting.\\nFluorescent lighting is important for the growth of the plants in your ecosystem. It is recommended to provide 2 to 5 watts per 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water for a freshwater aquarium.\\nIncandescent lighting will not help your plants grow.\\n1-3. Establish the substrate for the ecosystem.\\nThe substrate is the soil of the aquarium that allows the plants to anchor and grow. It must be properly established before doing anything else to foster an environment of growth and recycling of nutrients. \\nIf using a small bowl, start with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of sand and then add about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of pea gravel on top.\\nFor medium to larger aquariums, start with 2 inches (5.1 cm) of sand and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of pea gravel on top.\\nSand and pea gravel can be purchased from a pet store or obtained from a nearby pond.\\n1-4. Fill the container with water.\\nThe water is important because it will establish the first source of food for the fish and other organisms: algae and microorganisms. You can start with distilled/bottled water, dechlorinated tap water, or water from a previous fish tank or aquarium. \\nIf you use distilled/bottled water or dechlorinated tap water, mix some fish flakes in with the water to encourage growth.\\nAdding some water from an already established tank will also help growth because it will already have the essential nutrients.\\n1-5. Purchase a variety of plants.\\nWhen choosing plants you want to consider: how fast they grow (how often you’ll have to trim them), the size of the plant, whether they’re edible for fish and snails, and where in the aquarium they will grow (from the bottom, from the surface, from branches). To cultivate a diverse environment, include some of the following:\\nBottom growth: hair grass, corkscrew grass, or green rotala\\nSurface Growth: duckweed, lotus\\nBranches: crystalwort, java moss, Christmas moss, phoenix moss\\nYou want to make sure the plants are well-established (let them grow and become rooted) before adding fish or snails to the ecosystem.\\n1-6. Cultivate micro-critters.\\nThe next step in the food chain of your ecosystem is to add micro-critters such as small pond snails, daphnia, and micro-planarians. These will serve as food for all of the fish that don’t eat plants or algae. Aged aquarium media is a good way to seed your tank. This can be purchased at the fish or pet store.\\nMost of these organisms can’t be seen by the naked eye, but you should wait at least 2 weeks for them to get fully established before adding fish.\\n1-7. Add fish or shrimp to the system.\\nOnce the plants and microorganisms have been established you can start to introduce larger fish into the tank. You want to start with smaller organisms like a guppy, Endler’s livebearer, or cherry shrimp and only add 1 or 2 at a time. These fish also reproduce quickly and serve as a great diet for larger fish. \\nIf you have a larger aquarium, you can add more and varied fish. Balancing your fish is tricky and takes time. Make sure each species has time to adjust before adding more into the mix.\\n2. Maintaining an Aquatic Ecosystem\\n2-1. Change the water.\\nAquariums take a bit of maintenance to make sure all of your critters stay alive and well. About every 2 weeks, 10-15% of the water in the tank should be replaced with fresh water. If you are using tap water, let the water sit in an aerated bucket for about 24 hours to allow the chlorine to air out.\\nCheck your local water source to determine if there are heavy metals in your water.\\nUse filtered water if you are concerned about the quality of your tap water.\\n2-2. Control algae growth.\\nA gravel vacuum is a handy tool to have to help control the algae in your aquarium. When you change out the water, vacuum the gravel at the same time to remove algae growth and any uneaten food that may have accumulated.\\nClean the aquarium walls with filter floss or a magnetic tank scrubber to keep algae from accumulating on the glass.\\nAdd plants, snails, or daphnia to help control the growth.\\n2-3. Remove dead fish promptly.\\nCount your fish at least once a week to determine if any have died. Smaller fish can decompose quickly and cause spikes in nitrite, ammonia, and nitrate levels. These can be harmful to the other fish in your tank. If you see a dead fish, remove it as soon as possible.\\nUse a test kit to check the levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH. Replace the water if the levels are too high.\\nThe ideal levels vary depending on the type of fish you have, but in general, the ammonia should be between 0.0 to 0.25 mg/L, the nitrite should be less than 0.5 mg/L, the nitrate level should be less than 40 mg/L, and the pH should stay around 6.\\n3. Building a Terrarium Ecosystem\\n3-1. Obtain a sealable, large glass jar.\\nAny sized jar or bottle will be sufficient for your terrarium. A container with a large mouth will make it easier to work inside of. You want to make sure that the container can be properly sealed.\\nOptions include: a candy jar with a heavy lid, a pasta jar, or a mason jar.\\nMake sure the container is properly washed to remove any residue before using as a terrarium.\\n3-2. Fill the bottom with pebbles.\\nThe layer of pebbles at the bottom of the jar is to allow water to collect at the bottom and protect the plants from flooding. Add pebbles to a depth of about ⁄2–2 inches (1.3–5.1 cm).\\nIt doesn’t matter what type of rock or pebbles you use. You can even use colorful pebbles from the pet store to make it more exciting.\\n3-3. Cover the pebbles with a layer of activated charcoal.\\nThe charcoal layer is important to filter out impurities in the water. It helps keep the ecosystem clean and healthy by reducing the burden of bacteria and fungi. You don’t need a thick layer, just enough to cover the rock layer.\\nActivated charcoal can be purchased at a local pet store.\\n3-4. Add a ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) layer of peat moss.\\nOn top of the charcoal layer, you will add another layer of peat moss. Peat moss is a nutrient-rich soil that will help hold the water and nutrients necessary for the plants to grow.\\nPeat moss can be obtained a local nursery.\\n3-5. Layer potting soil on top of the peat moss.\\nThe final layer before adding the plants is a layer of potting soil. The plants will be able to root in this soil and get the water and nutrients they need from the combination of all of the layers below the potting soil.\\nAdd enough soil for the plants to take root and have room for growth. A depth slightly higher than the pot the plant came in should be good.\\nMost types of potting soil will be sufficient for this. Succulents and cacti require a special type of soil.\\n3-6. Add small plants.\\nAny plant you’d like to add will work in your terrarium, but small plants are recommended. Prepare your plants by removing them from their pots and breaking up the hard soil around their roots. Trim particularly long roots before planting. Dig a small well in the soil with a spoon and place the roots of the plant into the hole. Add a bit of soil on top and pack it down around the plant.\\nRepeat this process with the rest of your chosen plants taking care to keep the plants away from the edges of the container.\\nTry to avoid having the leaves touching the sides of the container as much as possible.\\nSome great plants to start with include moon valley friendship, the nerve plant, variegata, aquamarine, minimus aureus, strawberry begonias, ferns, and mosses.\\n3-7. Seal the terrarium and place it in indirect sunlight.\\nPut the lid or cork in place once you’ve added your plants. The terrarium will do well in an area with bright but indirect sunlight. The terrarium will dry out if you place it in an area with lots of direct light, but the plants won’t thrive if the terrarium is always shaded. Opt for an area near a window.\\n4. Maintaining a Terrarium Ecosystem\\n4-1. Water the plants only if necessary.\\nWith a sealed system, the terrarium shouldn’t need much maintenance. If you notice it is looking a bit dry, open it up and add a bit of water. Alternatively, if there is a lot of moisture inside, leave the lid off for a day or 2 to let it dry out for a bit.\\n4-2. Remove bugs if you see any.\\nThere might have been bug eggs in the soil or on your plants. If you notice anything crawling around inside, let it out and then reseal your ecosystem.\\n4-3. Prune the plants as needed.\\nWith proper sunlight and water, your plants will grow. If the plants get too big for the terrarium, you need to cut them back so it doesn’t get overcrowded. Keep the plants at your desired size so that they continue to thrive.\\nRemove any dead plants that may have fallen to the bottom.\\n4-4. Clear out algae and fungus regularly.\\nIf algae or fungus grows on the sides of the glass, you can easily clean it off. Use a piece of soft cloth or a cotton ball to wipe it away so you can clearly see through the glass.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a self-sustaining ecosystem is a fun and educational activity. You can build an aquatic ecosystem in a fish tank or you can build a terrarium with any plants you choose. The process is quite simple, but striking the balance between organisms can be tricky. With trial and error, time, and persistence, you can develop your very own self-sustaining ecosystem.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building an Aquatic Ecosystem\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a size for your ecosystem.\", \"描述\": \"If you are new to building ecosystems, you may want to start small. However, the smaller your container, the harder it is to maintain a self-sustaining environment. Larger containers allow for the inclusion of multiple diverse species and give everything room to grow. All containers must be clear to let in light. \\nA small glass bowl is fast to set up and doesn’t take up much space. While smaller bowls can be more difficult to sustain, they are still manageable for beginners.\\nMedium aquariums (10–30 gallons (38–114 l)) have more space for growth, but are more expensive and still limited in the size for growth.\\nLarge aquarium (60–200 gallons (230–760 l)) have ample space for growth and diversity and are most likely to be successful; however, they are very expensive and hard to make room for.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Expose the tank to fluorescent lighting.\", \"描述\": \"Fluorescent lighting is important for the growth of the plants in your ecosystem. It is recommended to provide 2 to 5 watts per 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water for a freshwater aquarium.\\nIncandescent lighting will not help your plants grow.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Establish the substrate for the ecosystem.\", \"描述\": \"The substrate is the soil of the aquarium that allows the plants to anchor and grow. It must be properly established before doing anything else to foster an environment of growth and recycling of nutrients. \\nIf using a small bowl, start with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of sand and then add about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of pea gravel on top.\\nFor medium to larger aquariums, start with 2 inches (5.1 cm) of sand and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of pea gravel on top.\\nSand and pea gravel can be purchased from a pet store or obtained from a nearby pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill the container with water.\", \"描述\": \"The water is important because it will establish the first source of food for the fish and other organisms: algae and microorganisms. You can start with distilled/bottled water, dechlorinated tap water, or water from a previous fish tank or aquarium. \\nIf you use distilled/bottled water or dechlorinated tap water, mix some fish flakes in with the water to encourage growth.\\nAdding some water from an already established tank will also help growth because it will already have the essential nutrients.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Purchase a variety of plants.\", \"描述\": \"When choosing plants you want to consider: how fast they grow (how often you’ll have to trim them), the size of the plant, whether they’re edible for fish and snails, and where in the aquarium they will grow (from the bottom, from the surface, from branches). To cultivate a diverse environment, include some of the following:\\nBottom growth: hair grass, corkscrew grass, or green rotala\\nSurface Growth: duckweed, lotus\\nBranches: crystalwort, java moss, Christmas moss, phoenix moss\\nYou want to make sure the plants are well-established (let them grow and become rooted) before adding fish or snails to the ecosystem.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cultivate micro-critters.\", \"描述\": \"The next step in the food chain of your ecosystem is to add micro-critters such as small pond snails, daphnia, and micro-planarians. These will serve as food for all of the fish that don’t eat plants or algae. Aged aquarium media is a good way to seed your tank. This can be purchased at the fish or pet store.\\nMost of these organisms can’t be seen by the naked eye, but you should wait at least 2 weeks for them to get fully established before adding fish.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add fish or shrimp to the system.\", \"描述\": \"Once the plants and microorganisms have been established you can start to introduce larger fish into the tank. You want to start with smaller organisms like a guppy, Endler’s livebearer, or cherry shrimp and only add 1 or 2 at a time. These fish also reproduce quickly and serve as a great diet for larger fish. \\nIf you have a larger aquarium, you can add more and varied fish. Balancing your fish is tricky and takes time. Make sure each species has time to adjust before adding more into the mix.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Maintaining an Aquatic Ecosystem\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Change the water.\", \"描述\": \"Aquariums take a bit of maintenance to make sure all of your critters stay alive and well. About every 2 weeks, 10-15% of the water in the tank should be replaced with fresh water. If you are using tap water, let the water sit in an aerated bucket for about 24 hours to allow the chlorine to air out.\\nCheck your local water source to determine if there are heavy metals in your water.\\nUse filtered water if you are concerned about the quality of your tap water.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Control algae growth.\", \"描述\": \"A gravel vacuum is a handy tool to have to help control the algae in your aquarium. When you change out the water, vacuum the gravel at the same time to remove algae growth and any uneaten food that may have accumulated.\\nClean the aquarium walls with filter floss or a magnetic tank scrubber to keep algae from accumulating on the glass.\\nAdd plants, snails, or daphnia to help control the growth.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove dead fish promptly.\", \"描述\": \"Count your fish at least once a week to determine if any have died. Smaller fish can decompose quickly and cause spikes in nitrite, ammonia, and nitrate levels. These can be harmful to the other fish in your tank. If you see a dead fish, remove it as soon as possible.\\nUse a test kit to check the levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH. Replace the water if the levels are too high.\\nThe ideal levels vary depending on the type of fish you have, but in general, the ammonia should be between 0.0 to 0.25 mg/L, the nitrite should be less than 0.5 mg/L, the nitrate level should be less than 40 mg/L, and the pH should stay around 6.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Terrarium Ecosystem\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain a sealable, large glass jar.\", \"描述\": \"Any sized jar or bottle will be sufficient for your terrarium. A container with a large mouth will make it easier to work inside of. You want to make sure that the container can be properly sealed.\\nOptions include: a candy jar with a heavy lid, a pasta jar, or a mason jar.\\nMake sure the container is properly washed to remove any residue before using as a terrarium.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill the bottom with pebbles.\", \"描述\": \"The layer of pebbles at the bottom of the jar is to allow water to collect at the bottom and protect the plants from flooding. Add pebbles to a depth of about ⁄2–2 inches (1.3–5.1 cm).\\nIt doesn’t matter what type of rock or pebbles you use. You can even use colorful pebbles from the pet store to make it more exciting.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover the pebbles with a layer of activated charcoal.\", \"描述\": \"The charcoal layer is important to filter out impurities in the water. It helps keep the ecosystem clean and healthy by reducing the burden of bacteria and fungi. You don’t need a thick layer, just enough to cover the rock layer.\\nActivated charcoal can be purchased at a local pet store.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) layer of peat moss.\", \"描述\": \"On top of the charcoal layer, you will add another layer of peat moss. Peat moss is a nutrient-rich soil that will help hold the water and nutrients necessary for the plants to grow.\\nPeat moss can be obtained a local nursery.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Layer potting soil on top of the peat moss.\", \"描述\": \"The final layer before adding the plants is a layer of potting soil. The plants will be able to root in this soil and get the water and nutrients they need from the combination of all of the layers below the potting soil.\\nAdd enough soil for the plants to take root and have room for growth. A depth slightly higher than the pot the plant came in should be good.\\nMost types of potting soil will be sufficient for this. Succulents and cacti require a special type of soil.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add small plants.\", \"描述\": \"Any plant you’d like to add will work in your terrarium, but small plants are recommended. Prepare your plants by removing them from their pots and breaking up the hard soil around their roots. Trim particularly long roots before planting. Dig a small well in the soil with a spoon and place the roots of the plant into the hole. Add a bit of soil on top and pack it down around the plant.\\nRepeat this process with the rest of your chosen plants taking care to keep the plants away from the edges of the container.\\nTry to avoid having the leaves touching the sides of the container as much as possible.\\nSome great plants to start with include moon valley friendship, the nerve plant, variegata, aquamarine, minimus aureus, strawberry begonias, ferns, and mosses.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Seal the terrarium and place it in indirect sunlight.\", \"描述\": \"Put the lid or cork in place once you’ve added your plants. The terrarium will do well in an area with bright but indirect sunlight. The terrarium will dry out if you place it in an area with lots of direct light, but the plants won’t thrive if the terrarium is always shaded. Opt for an area near a window.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Maintaining a Terrarium Ecosystem\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Water the plants only if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"With a sealed system, the terrarium shouldn’t need much maintenance. If you notice it is looking a bit dry, open it up and add a bit of water. Alternatively, if there is a lot of moisture inside, leave the lid off for a day or 2 to let it dry out for a bit.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove bugs if you see any.\", \"描述\": \"There might have been bug eggs in the soil or on your plants. If you notice anything crawling around inside, let it out and then reseal your ecosystem.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prune the plants as needed.\", \"描述\": \"With proper sunlight and water, your plants will grow. If the plants get too big for the terrarium, you need to cut them back so it doesn’t get overcrowded. Keep the plants at your desired size so that they continue to thrive.\\nRemove any dead plants that may have fallen to the bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Clear out algae and fungus regularly.\", \"描述\": \"If algae or fungus grows on the sides of the glass, you can easily clean it off. Use a piece of soft cloth or a cotton ball to wipe it away so you can clearly see through the glass.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,529 |
Building a Shed from Scratch? Follow These Instructions
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1. Constructing the Base
1-1. Determine how big you want the shed to be.
We’re going to provide specific guidance on how to build a 10 by 20 ft (3.0 by 6.1 m) shed, but you can customize the dimensions to build a shed of any size. Figure out how much storage you need, how much room you have in your backyard, and mark off the area with spray paint or chalk.
Remember, you have to be able to walk into the shed! If you have 30 sq ft (2.8 m) worth of stuff to store, add a little bit of extra space to your shed so you can stand inside.
Use treated 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards and joists for your frame. You’ll also need plywood sheets for the floor and roof, and some kind of exterior finish (vinyl siding, corrugated metal, or wood boards will all work).
Cut your lumber to size as you work using a circular saw or jigsaw.
If you don’t want to cut any lumber to size, sketch your schematics and dimensions out ahead of time. Then, go to the building supply store and ask them to cut your lumber to size.
1-2. Obtain any necessary building permits if you need them.
It depends on where you live, but you normally don’t need a building permit if your shed isn’t under a certain square footage threshold. But again, it depends, so contact your local building department to confirm you’re good to go.
If you need any building permits, obtain them before you start building your shed. They shouldn’t be especially pricey—you aren’t building a garage or some kind of habitable space.
If you don't get a permit, you might have to tear down the entire shed and start over, even if you follow the other local building codes. You could also be fined, depending on local laws.
1-3. Level the ground
Use a spade to remove dirt and a tamper to pack and level the ground. Then, lay deck piers down with a mallet. The deck piers will be the base for your flooring.
You can make your shed whatever size you’d like. In our example design, the piers are spaced 6 feet (1.8 m) apart in one direction and 4 feet (1.2 m) apart in the other for a total grid area of 12 by 8 feet (3.7 by 2.4 m).
You may prefer to build your shed on a concrete slab to protect it from water. This is also ideal if you live in an area that gets high winds or seismic activity. Level the concrete and lay concrete slabs before you start building the base of the shed.
1-4. Install support beams across the deck piers lengthwise.
This will be the base for your floor joists, which are going to run in the opposite direction. The easiest way to attach the beams to the piers is with metal straps, which have built-in nail holes. Drive nails through the holes to secure the beams to the piers. Note, you must use treated lumber for your shed or else it will wear down over time.
In the example design, the beams are 12 ft (3.7 m) long 4 by 6 in (10 by 15 cm) wood beams.
1-5. Attach a rim joist along the outer edge of each support beam.
Each of these will need to be the same length as the beam underneath. This is going to form one side of the base joists. Use a nail gun to drive wood nails into each beam and attach them to the beams underneath.
1-6. Install a series of floor joists across the entire length of the floor.
Lay your joists out by hand and attach them to the beams using your nail gun. As a rule of thumb, keep the joists separated by 14.5 in (37 cm) gaps (except the final 2 along the edge). This will allow standard plywood sheets to line up with the outermost edges of the joists.
1-7. Add pieces of blocking between each joist to keep them still.
Joists will shift over time as the weather changes and you walk on the floor if you don’t add blocking. Set a wood block in between each joist in the middle of the floor.
Nail each backing piece to both of the joists it sits against. This will keep it from shifting from one side to the other.
1-8. Nail plywood sheeting to the joists to form the floor.
If you’d like extra-strength flooring, use H-clips in addition to nailing the sheets into place. These fit between two pieces of plywood and lock them together for additional structural strength. Lay the plywood sheets down and nail them into the joists below. Place at least one nail every 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) on the joists for best results.
H-clips are traditionally used for slanted roofs to keep the seams between plywood from separating over time. They’re likely unnecessary for a small shed floor, but they’re a good idea if your shed is on the bigger side.
In the example design, two standard sheets of 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m) plywood sheets will cover most of the floor and you can saw a third sheet in half to cover the rest.
Your shed floor may also be screwed down with 3-inch (7.6 cm) deck screws.
2. Assembling the Walls
2-1. Hang the back wall first to anchor the other walls.
Place the top and bottom beams on the ground. Make them the same area as the floor. To keep your measurements simple, make the spacing between the vertical studs identical to the spacing between your floor joists. Assemble the wall on the ground and nail it into your frame.
Note that the back wall will be lower than the front wall so that the roof slopes and directs rain away from the door.
Put some heavy, tall items around both sides of the back wall while you work on the other 3 walls. This will keep the wall from swaying in the wind or falling over.
2-2. Build and hang the front wall next.
Make the front wall the exact same as the back wall except 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) taller so that rain drains off the roof. Also, skip 3-5 joists for your door frame so that you can hang a door in the shed when you’re done.
The easiest way to deal with the door part of this equation is to purchase a prefabricated door, measure it, and then just leave an opening that matches its dimensions.
Prefabricated doors are deceptively easy to install. Just slide the frame into the opening in the wall and nail the joists and frame together.
You don’t need a door if you live in a temperate area and you don’t mind chasing the occasional squirrel out of your shed!
2-3. Hang the side walls last at a slight angle.
Make the bottom plate of each side wall the same length as the distance between the bottom plates of the front and back wall (so that the side walls will fit between them). Place the wall studs 16 inches (41 cm) apart (from center to center, not from edge to edge). Most importantly, make the top plate slightly angled so that the roof slopes, which makes the height of each vertical stud slightly different.
Since this stud spacing doesn’t perfectly divide into the total length of the side walls in our example design, the two outermost studs make up for this discrepancy by being slightly closer to their neighbors.
If you’re not sure how to calculate the necessary height of each vertical stud, make the two outermost vertical studs first, lay them the correct distance apart, cut a top plate that spans this distance, and then cut each remaining vertical stud individually.
2-4. Assemble the four walls and attach them to one another.
If possible, nail the wall structures to the underlying support from the bottom up. However, if this is not possible with the design you’ve chosen, simply nail them downwards through the plywood and joists. You can also toenail them into place by driving the nails downwards and at an angle.Enlist some friends or family members to help you hold the walls up while you’re assembling everything.
3. Adding the Roof & Finishing Touches
3-1. Build rafters
Make sure the rafters overhang the walls of your shed for increased weather protection. Space the rafters the same way that you spaced your floor joists, since this will make your measurements easy. Once all rafters are in place, attach pieces of blocking between each pair of rafters along the top plates.
3-2. Nail plywood sheeting to the rafters to form the roof.
If you added an overhang, make sure your plywood extends to the edge of the overhang. Measure the dimensions of your shed’s roof, including the overhang, and cut your plywood to the same dimensions so that it covers the whole roof.
3-3. Cover the walls to keep the studs safe and dry.
Use siding, textured plywood, corrugated metal, or anything else that gives the shed a more finished look. Add some insulation if you want to protect the contents of the shed from any extreme cold.
Nail the siding, plywood, or metal directly into the joists.
Cover the seams of your wall with siding or all-weather caulk.
3-4. Add tar paper
Start from the lower end of the roof slope and work your way upwards. Make sure each new level of paper overlaps the one below it to keep rain from seeping into the cracks. You can also use shingles or other roofing material if desired.
You can also lay sheets of corrugated metal on top instead of adding tar paper if you want a thicker protective layer.
Feel free to paint your shed once you’ve built it. Prime and paint the building using any all-weather exterior paint.
Want an even more attractive shed? Lay some asphalt shingles on your roof.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:03",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the Base\\n1-1. Determine how big you want the shed to be.\\nWe’re going to provide specific guidance on how to build a 10 by 20 ft (3.0 by 6.1 m) shed, but you can customize the dimensions to build a shed of any size. Figure out how much storage you need, how much room you have in your backyard, and mark off the area with spray paint or chalk.\\nRemember, you have to be able to walk into the shed! If you have 30 sq ft (2.8 m) worth of stuff to store, add a little bit of extra space to your shed so you can stand inside.\\nUse treated 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards and joists for your frame. You’ll also need plywood sheets for the floor and roof, and some kind of exterior finish (vinyl siding, corrugated metal, or wood boards will all work).\\nCut your lumber to size as you work using a circular saw or jigsaw.\\nIf you don’t want to cut any lumber to size, sketch your schematics and dimensions out ahead of time. Then, go to the building supply store and ask them to cut your lumber to size.\\n1-2. Obtain any necessary building permits if you need them.\\nIt depends on where you live, but you normally don’t need a building permit if your shed isn’t under a certain square footage threshold. But again, it depends, so contact your local building department to confirm you’re good to go.\\nIf you need any building permits, obtain them before you start building your shed. They shouldn’t be especially pricey—you aren’t building a garage or some kind of habitable space.\\nIf you don't get a permit, you might have to tear down the entire shed and start over, even if you follow the other local building codes. You could also be fined, depending on local laws.\\n1-3. Level the ground\\nUse a spade to remove dirt and a tamper to pack and level the ground. Then, lay deck piers down with a mallet. The deck piers will be the base for your flooring. \\nYou can make your shed whatever size you’d like. In our example design, the piers are spaced 6 feet (1.8 m) apart in one direction and 4 feet (1.2 m) apart in the other for a total grid area of 12 by 8 feet (3.7 by 2.4 m).\\nYou may prefer to build your shed on a concrete slab to protect it from water. This is also ideal if you live in an area that gets high winds or seismic activity. Level the concrete and lay concrete slabs before you start building the base of the shed.\\n1-4. Install support beams across the deck piers lengthwise.\\nThis will be the base for your floor joists, which are going to run in the opposite direction. The easiest way to attach the beams to the piers is with metal straps, which have built-in nail holes. Drive nails through the holes to secure the beams to the piers. Note, you must use treated lumber for your shed or else it will wear down over time.\\nIn the example design, the beams are 12 ft (3.7 m) long 4 by 6 in (10 by 15 cm) wood beams.\\n1-5. Attach a rim joist along the outer edge of each support beam.\\nEach of these will need to be the same length as the beam underneath. This is going to form one side of the base joists. Use a nail gun to drive wood nails into each beam and attach them to the beams underneath.\\n1-6. Install a series of floor joists across the entire length of the floor.\\nLay your joists out by hand and attach them to the beams using your nail gun. As a rule of thumb, keep the joists separated by 14.5 in (37 cm) gaps (except the final 2 along the edge). This will allow standard plywood sheets to line up with the outermost edges of the joists.\\n1-7. Add pieces of blocking between each joist to keep them still.\\nJoists will shift over time as the weather changes and you walk on the floor if you don’t add blocking. Set a wood block in between each joist in the middle of the floor.\\nNail each backing piece to both of the joists it sits against. This will keep it from shifting from one side to the other.\\n1-8. Nail plywood sheeting to the joists to form the floor.\\nIf you’d like extra-strength flooring, use H-clips in addition to nailing the sheets into place. These fit between two pieces of plywood and lock them together for additional structural strength. Lay the plywood sheets down and nail them into the joists below. Place at least one nail every 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) on the joists for best results.\\nH-clips are traditionally used for slanted roofs to keep the seams between plywood from separating over time. They’re likely unnecessary for a small shed floor, but they’re a good idea if your shed is on the bigger side.\\nIn the example design, two standard sheets of 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m) plywood sheets will cover most of the floor and you can saw a third sheet in half to cover the rest.\\nYour shed floor may also be screwed down with 3-inch (7.6 cm) deck screws.\\n2. Assembling the Walls\\n2-1. Hang the back wall first to anchor the other walls.\\nPlace the top and bottom beams on the ground. Make them the same area as the floor. To keep your measurements simple, make the spacing between the vertical studs identical to the spacing between your floor joists. Assemble the wall on the ground and nail it into your frame.\\nNote that the back wall will be lower than the front wall so that the roof slopes and directs rain away from the door.\\nPut some heavy, tall items around both sides of the back wall while you work on the other 3 walls. This will keep the wall from swaying in the wind or falling over.\\n2-2. Build and hang the front wall next.\\nMake the front wall the exact same as the back wall except 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) taller so that rain drains off the roof. Also, skip 3-5 joists for your door frame so that you can hang a door in the shed when you’re done.\\nThe easiest way to deal with the door part of this equation is to purchase a prefabricated door, measure it, and then just leave an opening that matches its dimensions.\\nPrefabricated doors are deceptively easy to install. Just slide the frame into the opening in the wall and nail the joists and frame together.\\nYou don’t need a door if you live in a temperate area and you don’t mind chasing the occasional squirrel out of your shed!\\n2-3. Hang the side walls last at a slight angle.\\nMake the bottom plate of each side wall the same length as the distance between the bottom plates of the front and back wall (so that the side walls will fit between them). Place the wall studs 16 inches (41 cm) apart (from center to center, not from edge to edge). Most importantly, make the top plate slightly angled so that the roof slopes, which makes the height of each vertical stud slightly different.\\nSince this stud spacing doesn’t perfectly divide into the total length of the side walls in our example design, the two outermost studs make up for this discrepancy by being slightly closer to their neighbors.\\nIf you’re not sure how to calculate the necessary height of each vertical stud, make the two outermost vertical studs first, lay them the correct distance apart, cut a top plate that spans this distance, and then cut each remaining vertical stud individually.\\n2-4. Assemble the four walls and attach them to one another.\\nIf possible, nail the wall structures to the underlying support from the bottom up. However, if this is not possible with the design you’ve chosen, simply nail them downwards through the plywood and joists. You can also toenail them into place by driving the nails downwards and at an angle.Enlist some friends or family members to help you hold the walls up while you’re assembling everything.\\n3. Adding the Roof & Finishing Touches\\n3-1. Build rafters\\nMake sure the rafters overhang the walls of your shed for increased weather protection. Space the rafters the same way that you spaced your floor joists, since this will make your measurements easy. Once all rafters are in place, attach pieces of blocking between each pair of rafters along the top plates.\\n3-2. Nail plywood sheeting to the rafters to form the roof.\\nIf you added an overhang, make sure your plywood extends to the edge of the overhang. Measure the dimensions of your shed’s roof, including the overhang, and cut your plywood to the same dimensions so that it covers the whole roof.\\n3-3. Cover the walls to keep the studs safe and dry.\\nUse siding, textured plywood, corrugated metal, or anything else that gives the shed a more finished look. Add some insulation if you want to protect the contents of the shed from any extreme cold.\\nNail the siding, plywood, or metal directly into the joists.\\nCover the seams of your wall with siding or all-weather caulk.\\n3-4. Add tar paper\\nStart from the lower end of the roof slope and work your way upwards. Make sure each new level of paper overlaps the one below it to keep rain from seeping into the cracks. You can also use shingles or other roofing material if desired.\\nYou can also lay sheets of corrugated metal on top instead of adding tar paper if you want a thicker protective layer.\\nFeel free to paint your shed once you’ve built it. Prime and paint the building using any all-weather exterior paint.\\nWant an even more attractive shed? Lay some asphalt shingles on your roof.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you’re an avid gardener who needs somewhere to keep all their tools or you’re an avid outdoorsman running out of basement space for your bikes and fishing poles, a shed is sure to solve your storage problem. Ready to get started? This guide will teach you the basics of building a shed. Keep reading for a list of step-by-step instructions, plus extra tips for modifying your shed to make it last for years to come.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine how big you want the shed to be.\", \"描述\": \"We’re going to provide specific guidance on how to build a 10 by 20 ft (3.0 by 6.1 m) shed, but you can customize the dimensions to build a shed of any size. Figure out how much storage you need, how much room you have in your backyard, and mark off the area with spray paint or chalk.\\nRemember, you have to be able to walk into the shed! If you have 30 sq ft (2.8 m) worth of stuff to store, add a little bit of extra space to your shed so you can stand inside.\\nUse treated 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) boards and joists for your frame. You’ll also need plywood sheets for the floor and roof, and some kind of exterior finish (vinyl siding, corrugated metal, or wood boards will all work).\\nCut your lumber to size as you work using a circular saw or jigsaw.\\nIf you don’t want to cut any lumber to size, sketch your schematics and dimensions out ahead of time. Then, go to the building supply store and ask them to cut your lumber to size.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Obtain any necessary building permits if you need them.\", \"描述\": \"It depends on where you live, but you normally don’t need a building permit if your shed isn’t under a certain square footage threshold. But again, it depends, so contact your local building department to confirm you’re good to go.\\nIf you need any building permits, obtain them before you start building your shed. They shouldn’t be especially pricey—you aren’t building a garage or some kind of habitable space.\\nIf you don't get a permit, you might have to tear down the entire shed and start over, even if you follow the other local building codes. You could also be fined, depending on local laws.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Level the ground\", \"描述\": \"Use a spade to remove dirt and a tamper to pack and level the ground. Then, lay deck piers down with a mallet. The deck piers will be the base for your flooring. \\nYou can make your shed whatever size you’d like. In our example design, the piers are spaced 6 feet (1.8 m) apart in one direction and 4 feet (1.2 m) apart in the other for a total grid area of 12 by 8 feet (3.7 by 2.4 m).\\nYou may prefer to build your shed on a concrete slab to protect it from water. This is also ideal if you live in an area that gets high winds or seismic activity. Level the concrete and lay concrete slabs before you start building the base of the shed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install support beams across the deck piers lengthwise.\", \"描述\": \"This will be the base for your floor joists, which are going to run in the opposite direction. The easiest way to attach the beams to the piers is with metal straps, which have built-in nail holes. Drive nails through the holes to secure the beams to the piers. Note, you must use treated lumber for your shed or else it will wear down over time.\\nIn the example design, the beams are 12 ft (3.7 m) long 4 by 6 in (10 by 15 cm) wood beams.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach a rim joist along the outer edge of each support beam.\", \"描述\": \"Each of these will need to be the same length as the beam underneath. This is going to form one side of the base joists. Use a nail gun to drive wood nails into each beam and attach them to the beams underneath.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install a series of floor joists across the entire length of the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Lay your joists out by hand and attach them to the beams using your nail gun. As a rule of thumb, keep the joists separated by 14.5 in (37 cm) gaps (except the final 2 along the edge). This will allow standard plywood sheets to line up with the outermost edges of the joists.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add pieces of blocking between each joist to keep them still.\", \"描述\": \"Joists will shift over time as the weather changes and you walk on the floor if you don’t add blocking. Set a wood block in between each joist in the middle of the floor.\\nNail each backing piece to both of the joists it sits against. This will keep it from shifting from one side to the other.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Nail plywood sheeting to the joists to form the floor.\", \"描述\": \"If you’d like extra-strength flooring, use H-clips in addition to nailing the sheets into place. These fit between two pieces of plywood and lock them together for additional structural strength. Lay the plywood sheets down and nail them into the joists below. Place at least one nail every 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) on the joists for best results.\\nH-clips are traditionally used for slanted roofs to keep the seams between plywood from separating over time. They’re likely unnecessary for a small shed floor, but they’re a good idea if your shed is on the bigger side.\\nIn the example design, two standard sheets of 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m) plywood sheets will cover most of the floor and you can saw a third sheet in half to cover the rest.\\nYour shed floor may also be screwed down with 3-inch (7.6 cm) deck screws.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Walls\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Hang the back wall first to anchor the other walls.\", \"描述\": \"Place the top and bottom beams on the ground. Make them the same area as the floor. To keep your measurements simple, make the spacing between the vertical studs identical to the spacing between your floor joists. Assemble the wall on the ground and nail it into your frame.\\nNote that the back wall will be lower than the front wall so that the roof slopes and directs rain away from the door.\\nPut some heavy, tall items around both sides of the back wall while you work on the other 3 walls. This will keep the wall from swaying in the wind or falling over.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build and hang the front wall next.\", \"描述\": \"Make the front wall the exact same as the back wall except 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) taller so that rain drains off the roof. Also, skip 3-5 joists for your door frame so that you can hang a door in the shed when you’re done.\\nThe easiest way to deal with the door part of this equation is to purchase a prefabricated door, measure it, and then just leave an opening that matches its dimensions.\\nPrefabricated doors are deceptively easy to install. Just slide the frame into the opening in the wall and nail the joists and frame together.\\nYou don’t need a door if you live in a temperate area and you don’t mind chasing the occasional squirrel out of your shed!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hang the side walls last at a slight angle.\", \"描述\": \"Make the bottom plate of each side wall the same length as the distance between the bottom plates of the front and back wall (so that the side walls will fit between them). Place the wall studs 16 inches (41 cm) apart (from center to center, not from edge to edge). Most importantly, make the top plate slightly angled so that the roof slopes, which makes the height of each vertical stud slightly different.\\nSince this stud spacing doesn’t perfectly divide into the total length of the side walls in our example design, the two outermost studs make up for this discrepancy by being slightly closer to their neighbors.\\nIf you’re not sure how to calculate the necessary height of each vertical stud, make the two outermost vertical studs first, lay them the correct distance apart, cut a top plate that spans this distance, and then cut each remaining vertical stud individually.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Assemble the four walls and attach them to one another.\", \"描述\": \"If possible, nail the wall structures to the underlying support from the bottom up. However, if this is not possible with the design you’ve chosen, simply nail them downwards through the plywood and joists. You can also toenail them into place by driving the nails downwards and at an angle.Enlist some friends or family members to help you hold the walls up while you’re assembling everything.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding the Roof & Finishing Touches\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build rafters\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the rafters overhang the walls of your shed for increased weather protection. Space the rafters the same way that you spaced your floor joists, since this will make your measurements easy. Once all rafters are in place, attach pieces of blocking between each pair of rafters along the top plates.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Nail plywood sheeting to the rafters to form the roof.\", \"描述\": \"If you added an overhang, make sure your plywood extends to the edge of the overhang. Measure the dimensions of your shed’s roof, including the overhang, and cut your plywood to the same dimensions so that it covers the whole roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover the walls to keep the studs safe and dry.\", \"描述\": \"Use siding, textured plywood, corrugated metal, or anything else that gives the shed a more finished look. Add some insulation if you want to protect the contents of the shed from any extreme cold.\\nNail the siding, plywood, or metal directly into the joists.\\nCover the seams of your wall with siding or all-weather caulk.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add tar paper\", \"描述\": \"Start from the lower end of the roof slope and work your way upwards. Make sure each new level of paper overlaps the one below it to keep rain from seeping into the cracks. You can also use shingles or other roofing material if desired.\\nYou can also lay sheets of corrugated metal on top instead of adding tar paper if you want a thicker protective layer.\\nFeel free to paint your shed once you’ve built it. Prime and paint the building using any all-weather exterior paint.\\nWant an even more attractive shed? Lay some asphalt shingles on your roof.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,530 |
How to Build a Shed Roof
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1. Planning Your Roof
1-1. Choose a style for your roof.
There are many different roof styles used for building sheds. The most common styles include gable, gambrel, skillion, and saltbox roofs. Each of these roof types is sloped to provide runoff for precipitation, which means the design you go with will largely be a matter of aesthetic preference.
Gable roofs feature a single central peak, with two symmetrical sloped sides. They are most often spotted on houses.
Gambrel roofs are the style traditionally used for barns. Each side of a gambrel roof has two sloped faces, the lower of which is either perpendicular or at a slight angle to the ground.
Skillion roofs are one of the simplest roof styles used in shed-building. A skillion roof is made up of a single flat plane which slopes gradually from top to bottom.
Saltbox roofs look like skillion roofs, but with an extra short slope opposite the long angled plane, like an upside-down check mark. They aren't seen on sheds as frequently as other styles, but are still a popular choice.
1-2. Determine your desired roof pitch.
The term “pitch” refers to the slope of the roof. In order to adhere to standardized building codes and ensure adequate runoff, your shed’s roof must have a pitch of at least 3-12 (read as “three-in-twelve”). Beyond that, you’re free to choose whatever slope best fits your plans for your shed.
A slope of 6-12, for example, means that for every 12 inches (30 cm) of length, the angle of your roof rises 6 inches (15 cm).
The steeper the slope of your roof, the better it will deflect rain, sleet, snow, falling leaves, and other materials that find their way on top.
1-3. Mark the location of your rafters along the top of the shed.
When installing rafters, it’s generally best to follow the same spacing as your wall studs. Use a carpenter’s pencil or felt-tipped marker to draw a line on your wall plate timbers where each set of rafters will go. In the majority of cases, they'll be about 20–24 inches (51–61 cm) apart on center.
Proper placement of your rafters will maximize support while minimizing the overall amount of materials used.
If your shed already has rafters in place and you just need to put in or replace the roof itself, you can skip straight to installing your new roofing materials.
2. Fashioning and Setting the Rafters
2-1. Measure your rafter boards for your preferred roof style and pitch.
The exact length and angle of your rafters will depend on the overall size of your shed, as well as the style and slope you’ve chosen. The rafters on a steeply-sloped roof, for instance, will be much longer and have more end cuts than those on a flat roof. Once you’ve determined the measurements you need, mark them directly onto a series of 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) or 2 in (5.1 cm) x 6 in (15 cm) boards using a carpenter’s pencil.
If you’re planning on building a gable roof with a pitch of 4-12 for a shed that’s 200 inches (510 cm) wide, your rafter boards would need to be 105.3 inches (267 cm) long on each side.
Don’t forget to cut the ends of each board to the appropriate angle to allow them to fit together at the peak.
2-2. Cut your rafter boards
Guide the blade over the end of the board slowly, aiming to make each cut as straight and precise as possible. Be sure to adjust your saw’s settings according to the necessary length and angle of your rafters.
Take care of all of your sawing at one time. You can then move on to assembling the rafters into trusses and attaching them to your shed frame.
2-3. Make a birdsmouth notch at the end of each rafter to help it fit into place.
A birdsmouth notch is an angled cut that allows a rafter to sit level on top of a wall plate rather than balancing on top. Position your rafter boards at the same angle as your roof’s pitch, then draw a 90-degree angle up from the bottom edge of each board, with the lines corresponding to the height and width of the wall plate, respectively. Cut along these lines to make the notch.
You can also figure out the angle for your birdsmouth notch by placing a piece of scrap wood the same width as the distance between the rafter and the wall plate beside your rafter beam and tracing it onto one side of the beam.
Note that your notches will need to be higher up on your rafter beams if you’re planning on including an overhang.
2-4. Assemble your rafter halves into trusses
Trace the upper 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) of your rafter peak onto a sheet of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood and cut out the triangular plate with a skill saw. Apply a thin layer of construction adhesive to the backside of each plate, then align it with the joint where two rafter boards and press it firmly into place. Secure the plates by driving 2-3 nails or wood screws through the plate on either side.
Gussets serve to reinforce connection sites between individual wood members, lending added strength and durability.
2-5. Attach the end rafters to the wall plates of your shed frame.
Lower the first rafter truss into place at either the front or back of the shed. Fasten the truss by driving 8D finishing nails at an angle down through the board just above the birdsmouth notch and into the underlying wall plate. Use 3 nails for each side. When you’re done, install the opposing truss in the same fashion.
Make sure the birdsmouth notches seat securely over the wall plates, and that the outer edge of the truss is flush with the outer edge of the wall.
If you’re working alone, nail an unused 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) vertically to both ends of your shed. This will help hold your end trusses upright while you focus on positioning on the wall plates.
2-6. Run a string between your end trusses to help you set the other rafters.
Drive a nail straight down into one of your rafter peaks and wrap the string around it a few times. Pull the string taut and anchor it around a second nail on the opposite end of the shed. The string will serve as a visual guide to help you make sure the rest of your rafters are set and centered correctly.
If you don’t want to leave nail holes in your rafters, you can also tie a knot at both ends of the string and tuck the knots into the joints where the boards of the rafter peaks meet.
Pull your centering string tight enough to be perfectly straight, but not so tight that it places strain on your end rafters.
2-7. Set your remaining rafters using your centering string for reference.
Work your way from one end of the shed to the other putting your rafter trusses in place and checking their alignment against the string. When you’re satisfied with the positioning of a truss, toe-nail it using 8D finishing nails the way you did your end rafters, then move on to the next truss.
Ideally, you should have a helper around to hand you up every next truss whenever you’re ready for it.
Don’t forget to remove your centering string once you have all of your rafters installed successfully.
3. Assembling Your Roof's Substrate
3-1. Cover your rafter trusses with plywood sheathing.
Put down your first sheet of plywood at the corner of one end of the roof. Make sure it’s lying horizontally across the exposed rafters, and that the edges are flush with the edges of the end rafters. Drive a nail into each corner of the plywood to hold it in place temporarily.
Most constructions experts recommend using ⁄16 in (1.1 cm) oriented strand board (OSB) for small-scale roofing projects.
Plywood sheathing will provide structural support for your new roof, as well as give you a flat, stable surface to attach your other roofing materials too.
3-2. Measure and cut additional plywood
Plywood is sold in large sheets, which means that you’ll most likely need to use multiple sheets and cut them to fit. Try to cover the remaining space using as few pieces as possible, starting from the lower portion of the roof.
It’s important to cut your plywood so that the end of each section covers half the width of the rafter it’s resting on. That way, the neighboring section will fit in easily beside it, and you’ll have a nice solid surface to nail into.
Make all your cuts with your plywood oriented the same way to ensure that the strand grain is running in a single direction. A consistent grain pattern will increase the strength of your roof sheathing.
3-3. Fasten your plywood sheathing to the rafters using 8D finishing nails.
Drive nails every 6 inches (15 cm) through the face of the plywood and down into the rafter below. Work your way up the length of each rafter from the bottom edge. When you’re done, look for any loose sections of plywood that may require additional nails.
For the sake of caution, do your fastening from your ladder, reaching as far as you can safely with your hammer or roofing nailer.
The combined strength of the OSB and supporting rafters will be capable of withstanding weights of up to several hundred pounds.
3-4. Cut fascia boards to finish the edges of your roof.
Once you have the sheathing in place, your final task will be to mount fascia boards to cover the exposed ends of your rafters. Cut your 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) or 2 in (5.1 cm) x 6 in (15 cm) to match the length of the shed. Fasten the fascia boards by nailing them to the end face of every other rafter using 8D finishing nails.
You’ll need to put up 2 fascia boards for gable, gambrel, skillion, and saltbox and other slanted roof styles—1 for each sloped edge. For flat roofs, it will look best to install a fascia board on every side.
When cutting your fascia boards, be sure to use the same size lumber as you did for your rafters to guarantee an exact fit.
4. Choosing and Installing Your Roofing Materials
4-1. Attach strips of felt roofing paper
Line up the loose edge of the roll with one of the bottom corners of your roof and fasten it using 10-12 staples grouped closely together near the center of the strip’s edge. Gradually unroll the paper across the rooftop, stopping to add more staples every 1–2 feet (0.30–0.61 m). Depending on the size of your roof, you may need to cut excess paper from the end of each strip using a straightedge and utility knife.
To ensure complete coverage, make sure the bottom edge of each strip overlaps the top of the strip below it by at least 2 inches (5.1 cm), and that all strip ends overlap by at least 4 inches (10 cm).
Double-check that your roofing felt is straight, flush, and wrinkle-free before stapling it down.
Roofing felt can be used on its own as a cheap and easy surfacing solution or as a preliminary substrate for attaching asphalt shingles.
4-2. Install asphalt shingles on your roof for an attractive traditional look.
Cut several full-sized shingles in half widthwise with the aid of a straightedge and utility knife and nail them along the bottom edge of your roof. These will serve as a starter strip. Proceed to install the remaining shingles from bottom to top in rows offset by 1 tile's width. Secure each shingle at the top using three 1 in (2.5 cm) roofing nails.
Use a chalk line or straightedge and framing square to ensure that your rows remain neat and orderly all the way across your roof.
Make sure the top and bottom of each row overlap by 2 inches (5.1 cm).
4-3. Put in a corrugated metal roof for a more durable, customizable option.
Cut your sheet metal to size using tin snips, power shears, or an electric nibbler tool. Lay out each section vertically, so that the ridges slope toward the ground—this will create runoff. Fasten each sheet by driving sharp metal roofing screws into both sides of the ridges down the length of the underlying rafter.
You can find a wide selection of metal roofing options in various materials, styles, and colors at your local home improvement center.
One of the biggest downsides of metal roofing is that the surface is vulnerable to rust and corrosion, which means it will need need to be painted over every 2-3 years in order to maintain its appearance.
4-4. Try out EPDM rubber roofing for a simple and inexpensive covering.
Load a paint roller with high-strength construction adhesive and brush the glue onto your plywood substrate in 3–5 ft (0.91–1.52 m) strips. Then, pause and unroll enough rubber sheeting to fit over the glued area. Continue until you’ve covered the entire roof, then trim the excess material from the edges using a straightedge and utility knife.
Apply your rubber sheeting carefully and take a few moments to smooth the surface afterwards to make sure it’s free of wrinkles, creases, or bubbles.
EPDM is sold in large rolls that are designed to be draped over a roof in a single sheet and cut to fit. You can usually pick up a 10 ft (3.0 m) x 10 ft (3.0 m) roll for around $100.
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"create_time": "20230517 11:00:03",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Roof\\n1-1. Choose a style for your roof.\\nThere are many different roof styles used for building sheds. The most common styles include gable, gambrel, skillion, and saltbox roofs. Each of these roof types is sloped to provide runoff for precipitation, which means the design you go with will largely be a matter of aesthetic preference.\\nGable roofs feature a single central peak, with two symmetrical sloped sides. They are most often spotted on houses.\\nGambrel roofs are the style traditionally used for barns. Each side of a gambrel roof has two sloped faces, the lower of which is either perpendicular or at a slight angle to the ground.\\nSkillion roofs are one of the simplest roof styles used in shed-building. A skillion roof is made up of a single flat plane which slopes gradually from top to bottom.\\nSaltbox roofs look like skillion roofs, but with an extra short slope opposite the long angled plane, like an upside-down check mark. They aren't seen on sheds as frequently as other styles, but are still a popular choice.\\n1-2. Determine your desired roof pitch.\\nThe term “pitch” refers to the slope of the roof. In order to adhere to standardized building codes and ensure adequate runoff, your shed’s roof must have a pitch of at least 3-12 (read as “three-in-twelve”). Beyond that, you’re free to choose whatever slope best fits your plans for your shed.\\nA slope of 6-12, for example, means that for every 12 inches (30 cm) of length, the angle of your roof rises 6 inches (15 cm).\\nThe steeper the slope of your roof, the better it will deflect rain, sleet, snow, falling leaves, and other materials that find their way on top.\\n1-3. Mark the location of your rafters along the top of the shed.\\nWhen installing rafters, it’s generally best to follow the same spacing as your wall studs. Use a carpenter’s pencil or felt-tipped marker to draw a line on your wall plate timbers where each set of rafters will go. In the majority of cases, they'll be about 20–24 inches (51–61 cm) apart on center.\\nProper placement of your rafters will maximize support while minimizing the overall amount of materials used.\\nIf your shed already has rafters in place and you just need to put in or replace the roof itself, you can skip straight to installing your new roofing materials.\\n2. Fashioning and Setting the Rafters\\n2-1. Measure your rafter boards for your preferred roof style and pitch.\\nThe exact length and angle of your rafters will depend on the overall size of your shed, as well as the style and slope you’ve chosen. The rafters on a steeply-sloped roof, for instance, will be much longer and have more end cuts than those on a flat roof. Once you’ve determined the measurements you need, mark them directly onto a series of 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) or 2 in (5.1 cm) x 6 in (15 cm) boards using a carpenter’s pencil.\\nIf you’re planning on building a gable roof with a pitch of 4-12 for a shed that’s 200 inches (510 cm) wide, your rafter boards would need to be 105.3 inches (267 cm) long on each side.\\nDon’t forget to cut the ends of each board to the appropriate angle to allow them to fit together at the peak.\\n2-2. Cut your rafter boards\\nGuide the blade over the end of the board slowly, aiming to make each cut as straight and precise as possible. Be sure to adjust your saw’s settings according to the necessary length and angle of your rafters.\\nTake care of all of your sawing at one time. You can then move on to assembling the rafters into trusses and attaching them to your shed frame.\\n2-3. Make a birdsmouth notch at the end of each rafter to help it fit into place.\\nA birdsmouth notch is an angled cut that allows a rafter to sit level on top of a wall plate rather than balancing on top. Position your rafter boards at the same angle as your roof’s pitch, then draw a 90-degree angle up from the bottom edge of each board, with the lines corresponding to the height and width of the wall plate, respectively. Cut along these lines to make the notch.\\nYou can also figure out the angle for your birdsmouth notch by placing a piece of scrap wood the same width as the distance between the rafter and the wall plate beside your rafter beam and tracing it onto one side of the beam.\\nNote that your notches will need to be higher up on your rafter beams if you’re planning on including an overhang.\\n2-4. Assemble your rafter halves into trusses\\nTrace the upper 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) of your rafter peak onto a sheet of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood and cut out the triangular plate with a skill saw. Apply a thin layer of construction adhesive to the backside of each plate, then align it with the joint where two rafter boards and press it firmly into place. Secure the plates by driving 2-3 nails or wood screws through the plate on either side.\\nGussets serve to reinforce connection sites between individual wood members, lending added strength and durability.\\n2-5. Attach the end rafters to the wall plates of your shed frame.\\nLower the first rafter truss into place at either the front or back of the shed. Fasten the truss by driving 8D finishing nails at an angle down through the board just above the birdsmouth notch and into the underlying wall plate. Use 3 nails for each side. When you’re done, install the opposing truss in the same fashion.\\nMake sure the birdsmouth notches seat securely over the wall plates, and that the outer edge of the truss is flush with the outer edge of the wall.\\nIf you’re working alone, nail an unused 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) vertically to both ends of your shed. This will help hold your end trusses upright while you focus on positioning on the wall plates.\\n2-6. Run a string between your end trusses to help you set the other rafters.\\nDrive a nail straight down into one of your rafter peaks and wrap the string around it a few times. Pull the string taut and anchor it around a second nail on the opposite end of the shed. The string will serve as a visual guide to help you make sure the rest of your rafters are set and centered correctly.\\nIf you don’t want to leave nail holes in your rafters, you can also tie a knot at both ends of the string and tuck the knots into the joints where the boards of the rafter peaks meet.\\nPull your centering string tight enough to be perfectly straight, but not so tight that it places strain on your end rafters.\\n2-7. Set your remaining rafters using your centering string for reference.\\nWork your way from one end of the shed to the other putting your rafter trusses in place and checking their alignment against the string. When you’re satisfied with the positioning of a truss, toe-nail it using 8D finishing nails the way you did your end rafters, then move on to the next truss.\\nIdeally, you should have a helper around to hand you up every next truss whenever you’re ready for it.\\nDon’t forget to remove your centering string once you have all of your rafters installed successfully.\\n3. Assembling Your Roof's Substrate\\n3-1. Cover your rafter trusses with plywood sheathing.\\nPut down your first sheet of plywood at the corner of one end of the roof. Make sure it’s lying horizontally across the exposed rafters, and that the edges are flush with the edges of the end rafters. Drive a nail into each corner of the plywood to hold it in place temporarily.\\nMost constructions experts recommend using ⁄16 in (1.1 cm) oriented strand board (OSB) for small-scale roofing projects.\\nPlywood sheathing will provide structural support for your new roof, as well as give you a flat, stable surface to attach your other roofing materials too.\\n3-2. Measure and cut additional plywood\\nPlywood is sold in large sheets, which means that you’ll most likely need to use multiple sheets and cut them to fit. Try to cover the remaining space using as few pieces as possible, starting from the lower portion of the roof.\\nIt’s important to cut your plywood so that the end of each section covers half the width of the rafter it’s resting on. That way, the neighboring section will fit in easily beside it, and you’ll have a nice solid surface to nail into.\\nMake all your cuts with your plywood oriented the same way to ensure that the strand grain is running in a single direction. A consistent grain pattern will increase the strength of your roof sheathing.\\n3-3. Fasten your plywood sheathing to the rafters using 8D finishing nails.\\nDrive nails every 6 inches (15 cm) through the face of the plywood and down into the rafter below. Work your way up the length of each rafter from the bottom edge. When you’re done, look for any loose sections of plywood that may require additional nails.\\nFor the sake of caution, do your fastening from your ladder, reaching as far as you can safely with your hammer or roofing nailer.\\nThe combined strength of the OSB and supporting rafters will be capable of withstanding weights of up to several hundred pounds.\\n3-4. Cut fascia boards to finish the edges of your roof.\\nOnce you have the sheathing in place, your final task will be to mount fascia boards to cover the exposed ends of your rafters. Cut your 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) or 2 in (5.1 cm) x 6 in (15 cm) to match the length of the shed. Fasten the fascia boards by nailing them to the end face of every other rafter using 8D finishing nails.\\nYou’ll need to put up 2 fascia boards for gable, gambrel, skillion, and saltbox and other slanted roof styles—1 for each sloped edge. For flat roofs, it will look best to install a fascia board on every side.\\nWhen cutting your fascia boards, be sure to use the same size lumber as you did for your rafters to guarantee an exact fit.\\n4. Choosing and Installing Your Roofing Materials\\n4-1. Attach strips of felt roofing paper\\nLine up the loose edge of the roll with one of the bottom corners of your roof and fasten it using 10-12 staples grouped closely together near the center of the strip’s edge. Gradually unroll the paper across the rooftop, stopping to add more staples every 1–2 feet (0.30–0.61 m). Depending on the size of your roof, you may need to cut excess paper from the end of each strip using a straightedge and utility knife.\\nTo ensure complete coverage, make sure the bottom edge of each strip overlaps the top of the strip below it by at least 2 inches (5.1 cm), and that all strip ends overlap by at least 4 inches (10 cm).\\nDouble-check that your roofing felt is straight, flush, and wrinkle-free before stapling it down.\\nRoofing felt can be used on its own as a cheap and easy surfacing solution or as a preliminary substrate for attaching asphalt shingles.\\n4-2. Install asphalt shingles on your roof for an attractive traditional look.\\nCut several full-sized shingles in half widthwise with the aid of a straightedge and utility knife and nail them along the bottom edge of your roof. These will serve as a starter strip. Proceed to install the remaining shingles from bottom to top in rows offset by 1 tile's width. Secure each shingle at the top using three 1 in (2.5 cm) roofing nails.\\nUse a chalk line or straightedge and framing square to ensure that your rows remain neat and orderly all the way across your roof.\\nMake sure the top and bottom of each row overlap by 2 inches (5.1 cm).\\n4-3. Put in a corrugated metal roof for a more durable, customizable option.\\nCut your sheet metal to size using tin snips, power shears, or an electric nibbler tool. Lay out each section vertically, so that the ridges slope toward the ground—this will create runoff. Fasten each sheet by driving sharp metal roofing screws into both sides of the ridges down the length of the underlying rafter.\\nYou can find a wide selection of metal roofing options in various materials, styles, and colors at your local home improvement center.\\nOne of the biggest downsides of metal roofing is that the surface is vulnerable to rust and corrosion, which means it will need need to be painted over every 2-3 years in order to maintain its appearance.\\n4-4. Try out EPDM rubber roofing for a simple and inexpensive covering.\\nLoad a paint roller with high-strength construction adhesive and brush the glue onto your plywood substrate in 3–5 ft (0.91–1.52 m) strips. Then, pause and unroll enough rubber sheeting to fit over the glued area. Continue until you’ve covered the entire roof, then trim the excess material from the edges using a straightedge and utility knife.\\nApply your rubber sheeting carefully and take a few moments to smooth the surface afterwards to make sure it’s free of wrinkles, creases, or bubbles.\\nEPDM is sold in large rolls that are designed to be draped over a roof in a single sheet and cut to fit. You can usually pick up a 10 ft (3.0 m) x 10 ft (3.0 m) roll for around $100.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you’re building a brand new shed or re-roofing an existing structure, it’s important to know the best way to cover it. Start by choosing a roof style that suits your needs and preferences for your shed. From there, you can begin measuring, cutting, and arranging your rafter boards in the desired configuration. After that, it’s simply a matter of laying down plywood sheathing and installing your roofing material of choice for long-lasting protection against the elements.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a style for your roof.\", \"描述\": \"There are many different roof styles used for building sheds. The most common styles include gable, gambrel, skillion, and saltbox roofs. Each of these roof types is sloped to provide runoff for precipitation, which means the design you go with will largely be a matter of aesthetic preference.\\nGable roofs feature a single central peak, with two symmetrical sloped sides. They are most often spotted on houses.\\nGambrel roofs are the style traditionally used for barns. Each side of a gambrel roof has two sloped faces, the lower of which is either perpendicular or at a slight angle to the ground.\\nSkillion roofs are one of the simplest roof styles used in shed-building. A skillion roof is made up of a single flat plane which slopes gradually from top to bottom.\\nSaltbox roofs look like skillion roofs, but with an extra short slope opposite the long angled plane, like an upside-down check mark. They aren't seen on sheds as frequently as other styles, but are still a popular choice.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine your desired roof pitch.\", \"描述\": \"The term “pitch” refers to the slope of the roof. In order to adhere to standardized building codes and ensure adequate runoff, your shed’s roof must have a pitch of at least 3-12 (read as “three-in-twelve”). Beyond that, you’re free to choose whatever slope best fits your plans for your shed.\\nA slope of 6-12, for example, means that for every 12 inches (30 cm) of length, the angle of your roof rises 6 inches (15 cm).\\nThe steeper the slope of your roof, the better it will deflect rain, sleet, snow, falling leaves, and other materials that find their way on top.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the location of your rafters along the top of the shed.\", \"描述\": \"When installing rafters, it’s generally best to follow the same spacing as your wall studs. Use a carpenter’s pencil or felt-tipped marker to draw a line on your wall plate timbers where each set of rafters will go. In the majority of cases, they'll be about 20–24 inches (51–61 cm) apart on center.\\nProper placement of your rafters will maximize support while minimizing the overall amount of materials used.\\nIf your shed already has rafters in place and you just need to put in or replace the roof itself, you can skip straight to installing your new roofing materials.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fashioning and Setting the Rafters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your rafter boards for your preferred roof style and pitch.\", \"描述\": \"The exact length and angle of your rafters will depend on the overall size of your shed, as well as the style and slope you’ve chosen. The rafters on a steeply-sloped roof, for instance, will be much longer and have more end cuts than those on a flat roof. Once you’ve determined the measurements you need, mark them directly onto a series of 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) or 2 in (5.1 cm) x 6 in (15 cm) boards using a carpenter’s pencil.\\nIf you’re planning on building a gable roof with a pitch of 4-12 for a shed that’s 200 inches (510 cm) wide, your rafter boards would need to be 105.3 inches (267 cm) long on each side.\\nDon’t forget to cut the ends of each board to the appropriate angle to allow them to fit together at the peak.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your rafter boards\", \"描述\": \"Guide the blade over the end of the board slowly, aiming to make each cut as straight and precise as possible. Be sure to adjust your saw’s settings according to the necessary length and angle of your rafters.\\nTake care of all of your sawing at one time. You can then move on to assembling the rafters into trusses and attaching them to your shed frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a birdsmouth notch at the end of each rafter to help it fit into place.\", \"描述\": \"A birdsmouth notch is an angled cut that allows a rafter to sit level on top of a wall plate rather than balancing on top. Position your rafter boards at the same angle as your roof’s pitch, then draw a 90-degree angle up from the bottom edge of each board, with the lines corresponding to the height and width of the wall plate, respectively. Cut along these lines to make the notch.\\nYou can also figure out the angle for your birdsmouth notch by placing a piece of scrap wood the same width as the distance between the rafter and the wall plate beside your rafter beam and tracing it onto one side of the beam.\\nNote that your notches will need to be higher up on your rafter beams if you’re planning on including an overhang.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Assemble your rafter halves into trusses\", \"描述\": \"Trace the upper 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) of your rafter peak onto a sheet of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood and cut out the triangular plate with a skill saw. Apply a thin layer of construction adhesive to the backside of each plate, then align it with the joint where two rafter boards and press it firmly into place. Secure the plates by driving 2-3 nails or wood screws through the plate on either side.\\nGussets serve to reinforce connection sites between individual wood members, lending added strength and durability.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the end rafters to the wall plates of your shed frame.\", \"描述\": \"Lower the first rafter truss into place at either the front or back of the shed. Fasten the truss by driving 8D finishing nails at an angle down through the board just above the birdsmouth notch and into the underlying wall plate. Use 3 nails for each side. When you’re done, install the opposing truss in the same fashion.\\nMake sure the birdsmouth notches seat securely over the wall plates, and that the outer edge of the truss is flush with the outer edge of the wall.\\nIf you’re working alone, nail an unused 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) vertically to both ends of your shed. This will help hold your end trusses upright while you focus on positioning on the wall plates.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Run a string between your end trusses to help you set the other rafters.\", \"描述\": \"Drive a nail straight down into one of your rafter peaks and wrap the string around it a few times. Pull the string taut and anchor it around a second nail on the opposite end of the shed. The string will serve as a visual guide to help you make sure the rest of your rafters are set and centered correctly.\\nIf you don’t want to leave nail holes in your rafters, you can also tie a knot at both ends of the string and tuck the knots into the joints where the boards of the rafter peaks meet.\\nPull your centering string tight enough to be perfectly straight, but not so tight that it places strain on your end rafters.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Set your remaining rafters using your centering string for reference.\", \"描述\": \"Work your way from one end of the shed to the other putting your rafter trusses in place and checking their alignment against the string. When you’re satisfied with the positioning of a truss, toe-nail it using 8D finishing nails the way you did your end rafters, then move on to the next truss.\\nIdeally, you should have a helper around to hand you up every next truss whenever you’re ready for it.\\nDon’t forget to remove your centering string once you have all of your rafters installed successfully.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling Your Roof's Substrate\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cover your rafter trusses with plywood sheathing.\", \"描述\": \"Put down your first sheet of plywood at the corner of one end of the roof. Make sure it’s lying horizontally across the exposed rafters, and that the edges are flush with the edges of the end rafters. Drive a nail into each corner of the plywood to hold it in place temporarily.\\nMost constructions experts recommend using ⁄16 in (1.1 cm) oriented strand board (OSB) for small-scale roofing projects.\\nPlywood sheathing will provide structural support for your new roof, as well as give you a flat, stable surface to attach your other roofing materials too.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut additional plywood\", \"描述\": \"Plywood is sold in large sheets, which means that you’ll most likely need to use multiple sheets and cut them to fit. Try to cover the remaining space using as few pieces as possible, starting from the lower portion of the roof.\\nIt’s important to cut your plywood so that the end of each section covers half the width of the rafter it’s resting on. That way, the neighboring section will fit in easily beside it, and you’ll have a nice solid surface to nail into.\\nMake all your cuts with your plywood oriented the same way to ensure that the strand grain is running in a single direction. A consistent grain pattern will increase the strength of your roof sheathing.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fasten your plywood sheathing to the rafters using 8D finishing nails.\", \"描述\": \"Drive nails every 6 inches (15 cm) through the face of the plywood and down into the rafter below. Work your way up the length of each rafter from the bottom edge. When you’re done, look for any loose sections of plywood that may require additional nails.\\nFor the sake of caution, do your fastening from your ladder, reaching as far as you can safely with your hammer or roofing nailer.\\nThe combined strength of the OSB and supporting rafters will be capable of withstanding weights of up to several hundred pounds.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut fascia boards to finish the edges of your roof.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the sheathing in place, your final task will be to mount fascia boards to cover the exposed ends of your rafters. Cut your 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) or 2 in (5.1 cm) x 6 in (15 cm) to match the length of the shed. Fasten the fascia boards by nailing them to the end face of every other rafter using 8D finishing nails.\\nYou’ll need to put up 2 fascia boards for gable, gambrel, skillion, and saltbox and other slanted roof styles—1 for each sloped edge. For flat roofs, it will look best to install a fascia board on every side.\\nWhen cutting your fascia boards, be sure to use the same size lumber as you did for your rafters to guarantee an exact fit.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choosing and Installing Your Roofing Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach strips of felt roofing paper\", \"描述\": \"Line up the loose edge of the roll with one of the bottom corners of your roof and fasten it using 10-12 staples grouped closely together near the center of the strip’s edge. Gradually unroll the paper across the rooftop, stopping to add more staples every 1–2 feet (0.30–0.61 m). Depending on the size of your roof, you may need to cut excess paper from the end of each strip using a straightedge and utility knife.\\nTo ensure complete coverage, make sure the bottom edge of each strip overlaps the top of the strip below it by at least 2 inches (5.1 cm), and that all strip ends overlap by at least 4 inches (10 cm).\\nDouble-check that your roofing felt is straight, flush, and wrinkle-free before stapling it down.\\nRoofing felt can be used on its own as a cheap and easy surfacing solution or as a preliminary substrate for attaching asphalt shingles.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install asphalt shingles on your roof for an attractive traditional look.\", \"描述\": \"Cut several full-sized shingles in half widthwise with the aid of a straightedge and utility knife and nail them along the bottom edge of your roof. These will serve as a starter strip. Proceed to install the remaining shingles from bottom to top in rows offset by 1 tile's width. Secure each shingle at the top using three 1 in (2.5 cm) roofing nails.\\nUse a chalk line or straightedge and framing square to ensure that your rows remain neat and orderly all the way across your roof.\\nMake sure the top and bottom of each row overlap by 2 inches (5.1 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put in a corrugated metal roof for a more durable, customizable option.\", \"描述\": \"Cut your sheet metal to size using tin snips, power shears, or an electric nibbler tool. Lay out each section vertically, so that the ridges slope toward the ground—this will create runoff. Fasten each sheet by driving sharp metal roofing screws into both sides of the ridges down the length of the underlying rafter.\\nYou can find a wide selection of metal roofing options in various materials, styles, and colors at your local home improvement center.\\nOne of the biggest downsides of metal roofing is that the surface is vulnerable to rust and corrosion, which means it will need need to be painted over every 2-3 years in order to maintain its appearance.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try out EPDM rubber roofing for a simple and inexpensive covering.\", \"描述\": \"Load a paint roller with high-strength construction adhesive and brush the glue onto your plywood substrate in 3–5 ft (0.91–1.52 m) strips. Then, pause and unroll enough rubber sheeting to fit over the glued area. Continue until you’ve covered the entire roof, then trim the excess material from the edges using a straightedge and utility knife.\\nApply your rubber sheeting carefully and take a few moments to smooth the surface afterwards to make sure it’s free of wrinkles, creases, or bubbles.\\nEPDM is sold in large rolls that are designed to be draped over a roof in a single sheet and cut to fit. You can usually pick up a 10 ft (3.0 m) x 10 ft (3.0 m) roll for around $100.\"}]}]}}",
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"扩展字段": ""
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wikihow
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7,531 |
How to Build a Ship in a Bottle
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1. Putting the Ship Together
1-1. Shape the ship hull with sandpaper.
Purchase a model ship kit made from a soft wood, like basswood, pine, or balsa wood.To fit through the mouth of bottle, the ship should be about ⁄2 inch (13 mm) deep and 1 inch (25 mm) wide. Hold a piece of 220-grit sandpaper against the ship's hull and rub the bottom back and forth until it is smooth and about ⁄2 inch (13 mm) deep and 1 inch (25 mm) wide.
If the ship's hull is particularly deep or wide, you can use a sharp knife to cut the bottom and sides of the hull before smoothing the edges with the sandpaper.
Choose a beginner kit for your first ship, which should include the model ship as well as any tools you'll need to put it together.
1-2. Glue the bowsprit on the ship's front side.
The bowsprit is a long, thin wooden piece that juts out on the front of the boat's side. Once you've located it, line it up against the ship's front side and secure it with wood glue on its end.
If you're not sure which piece is the bowsprit, check your ship in a bottle kit for clarification. It should be a long piece of wood that resembles a rod.
1-3. Attach the masts to the hull with wire.
Tie a thin wire around the ends of the masts and clip the ends with wire cutters. Place the ends of the masts into the hole openings as indicated by the ship's design.
The thin wire should come with the ship kit. If it does not, use 18-20 gauge metal wire. You can find metal wire from most hardware or home improvement stores.
1-4. Glue the sails onto the masts and let them dry for 30-60 minutes.
Squirt a small line of wood glue on the top and bottom of one side of the ship sails. Press the ship sails against their corresponding mast, referring to the instruction booklet for guidance, and let the glue dry for around 30-60 minutes.
If you don't have wood glue in your kit, you can buy wood glue online or from most hardware stores.
2. Choosing and Cleaning Your Bottle
2-1. Choose a smooth, seamless bottle for your ship.
The bottle you choose should highlight your ship without obscuring it in any way. Pick a bottle without any visible seams, flaws, or raised lettering to display your ship in a bottle as clearly as possible.
Although glass bottles are ideal, you can use plastic bottles to display the ship.
A wine bottle, for example, makes an excellent container for ships in a bottle. You can also find empty glass bottles at some craft stores.
2-2. Hold the ship up against the bottle to check its overall size.
After attaching the sails to the masts, set the bottle on a flat surface and align the ship next to it. The ship's height and width should be smaller than the bottle's overall size so it fits comfortably inside.
If the ship is larger or wider than the bottle, you can either choose a larger bottle or sand the ship to size.
2-3. Clean the bottle thoroughly with soap and water.
Squirt a coin sized amount of soap into the bottle and fill it halfway with water. Hold your hand over the bottle opening and swish around the soap to remove dirt and debris inside the bottle. Then, rinse the bottle out with running water and let it air dry.
You can skip this step if your bottle is already clean or if it came with your ship in a bottle kit.
If swishing around the soap does not remove all of the dirty spots, push a washcloth through the opening to rub away stubborn debris.
2-4. Paint the bottom of the bottle blue to resemble water, if you want.
Dip a foam brush in a blue acrylic paint and cover the outer bottom of the bottle in paint and about halfway up the sides. Use white paint to draw designs in the waves, then leave the bottle to dry for at least 30-60 minutes before placing the ship inside.
The "bottom" refers to the side of the bottle that will eventually become where you place the ship over, not the literal bottom of the bottle.
For a deeper blue color, paint the bottom of the bottle with 2-3 layers of paint, waiting 30-60 minutes between layers for the paint to dry.
3. Placing the Ship in the Bottle
3-1. Line wood putty along the inside bottom of the bottle.
Using a long, metal rod, stick a piece of wood putty about the same length and width of the bottle's bottom in through the mouth of the bottle. This will help your ship stick inside of the bottle without falling over.
You can line the bottle with a layer of glue or epoxy as an alternative, but you will need to place the ship inside faster before it dries.
Painting the bottom of the ship not only creates the illusion that the ship is floating on water but also helps hide the wood putty.
3-2. Press the sails and mast down alongside the hull.
After putting the ship together, it should fold down along the masts and against the ship's hull. Following your boat's instructions, press the sails and masts down so the boat can fit inside the bottle's mouth.
The ship should unfold itself after you push it through the opening.
3-3. Push the boat through the bottle's mouth stern-first.
The stern is the front side of the boat, which usually is closest to the largest sails and points upward. Holding the masts down with your fingers, push the boat into the bottle's mouth slowly until the hull touches the wood putty lining at the bottom.
If the boat does not fit through the mouth, choose a bottle with a larger mouth or sand the hull to size.
3-4. Position the boat in place with a metal rod.
If the boat seems tilted or lopsided, push a metal rod through the opening of the bottle and tap it against the boat. Prod the boat as needed with the metal rod to adjust its alignment and secure it more firmly against the bottom.
If you don't have a metal rod, a wooden stick or metal utensil can work just as well.
3-5. Shut the bottle with a cork, if desired.
Bottle corks are a decorative and traditional way to finish your ship in a bottle. If you're using a glass bottle, place a cork through the bottle's mouth and push it in as far as it will go to keep it from falling out later.
You can find corks online or from some stores that sell alcoholic beverages.
Tips
Build a ship that's specifically made to be a ship in a bottle. Only ship in a bottle kits will fold along the hull and feature foldable masts to fit through the bottle's mouth.
Have patience and work carefully when building your ship in a bottle. The different pieces may be fragile, and a slow, steady hand will ensure that you build as complete a model as possible.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:03",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Putting the Ship Together\\n1-1. Shape the ship hull with sandpaper.\\nPurchase a model ship kit made from a soft wood, like basswood, pine, or balsa wood.To fit through the mouth of bottle, the ship should be about ⁄2 inch (13 mm) deep and 1 inch (25 mm) wide. Hold a piece of 220-grit sandpaper against the ship's hull and rub the bottom back and forth until it is smooth and about ⁄2 inch (13 mm) deep and 1 inch (25 mm) wide.\\nIf the ship's hull is particularly deep or wide, you can use a sharp knife to cut the bottom and sides of the hull before smoothing the edges with the sandpaper.\\nChoose a beginner kit for your first ship, which should include the model ship as well as any tools you'll need to put it together.\\n1-2. Glue the bowsprit on the ship's front side.\\nThe bowsprit is a long, thin wooden piece that juts out on the front of the boat's side. Once you've located it, line it up against the ship's front side and secure it with wood glue on its end.\\nIf you're not sure which piece is the bowsprit, check your ship in a bottle kit for clarification. It should be a long piece of wood that resembles a rod.\\n1-3. Attach the masts to the hull with wire.\\nTie a thin wire around the ends of the masts and clip the ends with wire cutters. Place the ends of the masts into the hole openings as indicated by the ship's design.\\nThe thin wire should come with the ship kit. If it does not, use 18-20 gauge metal wire. You can find metal wire from most hardware or home improvement stores.\\n1-4. Glue the sails onto the masts and let them dry for 30-60 minutes.\\nSquirt a small line of wood glue on the top and bottom of one side of the ship sails. Press the ship sails against their corresponding mast, referring to the instruction booklet for guidance, and let the glue dry for around 30-60 minutes.\\nIf you don't have wood glue in your kit, you can buy wood glue online or from most hardware stores.\\n2. Choosing and Cleaning Your Bottle\\n2-1. Choose a smooth, seamless bottle for your ship.\\nThe bottle you choose should highlight your ship without obscuring it in any way. Pick a bottle without any visible seams, flaws, or raised lettering to display your ship in a bottle as clearly as possible.\\nAlthough glass bottles are ideal, you can use plastic bottles to display the ship.\\nA wine bottle, for example, makes an excellent container for ships in a bottle. You can also find empty glass bottles at some craft stores.\\n2-2. Hold the ship up against the bottle to check its overall size.\\nAfter attaching the sails to the masts, set the bottle on a flat surface and align the ship next to it. The ship's height and width should be smaller than the bottle's overall size so it fits comfortably inside.\\nIf the ship is larger or wider than the bottle, you can either choose a larger bottle or sand the ship to size.\\n2-3. Clean the bottle thoroughly with soap and water.\\nSquirt a coin sized amount of soap into the bottle and fill it halfway with water. Hold your hand over the bottle opening and swish around the soap to remove dirt and debris inside the bottle. Then, rinse the bottle out with running water and let it air dry.\\nYou can skip this step if your bottle is already clean or if it came with your ship in a bottle kit.\\nIf swishing around the soap does not remove all of the dirty spots, push a washcloth through the opening to rub away stubborn debris.\\n2-4. Paint the bottom of the bottle blue to resemble water, if you want.\\nDip a foam brush in a blue acrylic paint and cover the outer bottom of the bottle in paint and about halfway up the sides. Use white paint to draw designs in the waves, then leave the bottle to dry for at least 30-60 minutes before placing the ship inside.\\nThe \\\"bottom\\\" refers to the side of the bottle that will eventually become where you place the ship over, not the literal bottom of the bottle.\\nFor a deeper blue color, paint the bottom of the bottle with 2-3 layers of paint, waiting 30-60 minutes between layers for the paint to dry.\\n3. Placing the Ship in the Bottle\\n3-1. Line wood putty along the inside bottom of the bottle.\\nUsing a long, metal rod, stick a piece of wood putty about the same length and width of the bottle's bottom in through the mouth of the bottle. This will help your ship stick inside of the bottle without falling over.\\nYou can line the bottle with a layer of glue or epoxy as an alternative, but you will need to place the ship inside faster before it dries.\\nPainting the bottom of the ship not only creates the illusion that the ship is floating on water but also helps hide the wood putty.\\n3-2. Press the sails and mast down alongside the hull.\\nAfter putting the ship together, it should fold down along the masts and against the ship's hull. Following your boat's instructions, press the sails and masts down so the boat can fit inside the bottle's mouth.\\nThe ship should unfold itself after you push it through the opening.\\n3-3. Push the boat through the bottle's mouth stern-first.\\nThe stern is the front side of the boat, which usually is closest to the largest sails and points upward. Holding the masts down with your fingers, push the boat into the bottle's mouth slowly until the hull touches the wood putty lining at the bottom.\\nIf the boat does not fit through the mouth, choose a bottle with a larger mouth or sand the hull to size.\\n3-4. Position the boat in place with a metal rod.\\nIf the boat seems tilted or lopsided, push a metal rod through the opening of the bottle and tap it against the boat. Prod the boat as needed with the metal rod to adjust its alignment and secure it more firmly against the bottom.\\nIf you don't have a metal rod, a wooden stick or metal utensil can work just as well.\\n3-5. Shut the bottle with a cork, if desired.\\nBottle corks are a decorative and traditional way to finish your ship in a bottle. If you're using a glass bottle, place a cork through the bottle's mouth and push it in as far as it will go to keep it from falling out later.\\nYou can find corks online or from some stores that sell alcoholic beverages.\\nTips\\nBuild a ship that's specifically made to be a ship in a bottle. Only ship in a bottle kits will fold along the hull and feature foldable masts to fit through the bottle's mouth.\\nHave patience and work carefully when building your ship in a bottle. The different pieces may be fragile, and a slow, steady hand will ensure that you build as complete a model as possible.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Although many hobbyists refer to the craft as the \\\"impossible bottle,\\\" building a ship in a bottle is simple and straightforward. All you need is a model ship, a bottle, and tools to secure the ship inside to create this intricate, beautiful project. Whether this is your first or one of many, a slow and patient attitude will help you build a strong ship in a bottle. Before you know it, you'll have created your own elegant and whimsical ship in a bottle!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Putting the Ship Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Shape the ship hull with sandpaper.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase a model ship kit made from a soft wood, like basswood, pine, or balsa wood.To fit through the mouth of bottle, the ship should be about ⁄2 inch (13 mm) deep and 1 inch (25 mm) wide. Hold a piece of 220-grit sandpaper against the ship's hull and rub the bottom back and forth until it is smooth and about ⁄2 inch (13 mm) deep and 1 inch (25 mm) wide.\\nIf the ship's hull is particularly deep or wide, you can use a sharp knife to cut the bottom and sides of the hull before smoothing the edges with the sandpaper.\\nChoose a beginner kit for your first ship, which should include the model ship as well as any tools you'll need to put it together.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Glue the bowsprit on the ship's front side.\", \"描述\": \"The bowsprit is a long, thin wooden piece that juts out on the front of the boat's side. Once you've located it, line it up against the ship's front side and secure it with wood glue on its end.\\nIf you're not sure which piece is the bowsprit, check your ship in a bottle kit for clarification. It should be a long piece of wood that resembles a rod.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the masts to the hull with wire.\", \"描述\": \"Tie a thin wire around the ends of the masts and clip the ends with wire cutters. Place the ends of the masts into the hole openings as indicated by the ship's design.\\nThe thin wire should come with the ship kit. If it does not, use 18-20 gauge metal wire. You can find metal wire from most hardware or home improvement stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue the sails onto the masts and let them dry for 30-60 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"Squirt a small line of wood glue on the top and bottom of one side of the ship sails. Press the ship sails against their corresponding mast, referring to the instruction booklet for guidance, and let the glue dry for around 30-60 minutes.\\nIf you don't have wood glue in your kit, you can buy wood glue online or from most hardware stores.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choosing and Cleaning Your Bottle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a smooth, seamless bottle for your ship.\", \"描述\": \"The bottle you choose should highlight your ship without obscuring it in any way. Pick a bottle without any visible seams, flaws, or raised lettering to display your ship in a bottle as clearly as possible.\\nAlthough glass bottles are ideal, you can use plastic bottles to display the ship.\\nA wine bottle, for example, makes an excellent container for ships in a bottle. You can also find empty glass bottles at some craft stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hold the ship up against the bottle to check its overall size.\", \"描述\": \"After attaching the sails to the masts, set the bottle on a flat surface and align the ship next to it. The ship's height and width should be smaller than the bottle's overall size so it fits comfortably inside.\\nIf the ship is larger or wider than the bottle, you can either choose a larger bottle or sand the ship to size.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clean the bottle thoroughly with soap and water.\", \"描述\": \"Squirt a coin sized amount of soap into the bottle and fill it halfway with water. Hold your hand over the bottle opening and swish around the soap to remove dirt and debris inside the bottle. Then, rinse the bottle out with running water and let it air dry.\\nYou can skip this step if your bottle is already clean or if it came with your ship in a bottle kit.\\nIf swishing around the soap does not remove all of the dirty spots, push a washcloth through the opening to rub away stubborn debris.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Paint the bottom of the bottle blue to resemble water, if you want.\", \"描述\": \"Dip a foam brush in a blue acrylic paint and cover the outer bottom of the bottle in paint and about halfway up the sides. Use white paint to draw designs in the waves, then leave the bottle to dry for at least 30-60 minutes before placing the ship inside.\\nThe \\\"bottom\\\" refers to the side of the bottle that will eventually become where you place the ship over, not the literal bottom of the bottle.\\nFor a deeper blue color, paint the bottom of the bottle with 2-3 layers of paint, waiting 30-60 minutes between layers for the paint to dry.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Placing the Ship in the Bottle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Line wood putty along the inside bottom of the bottle.\", \"描述\": \"Using a long, metal rod, stick a piece of wood putty about the same length and width of the bottle's bottom in through the mouth of the bottle. This will help your ship stick inside of the bottle without falling over.\\nYou can line the bottle with a layer of glue or epoxy as an alternative, but you will need to place the ship inside faster before it dries.\\nPainting the bottom of the ship not only creates the illusion that the ship is floating on water but also helps hide the wood putty.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Press the sails and mast down alongside the hull.\", \"描述\": \"After putting the ship together, it should fold down along the masts and against the ship's hull. Following your boat's instructions, press the sails and masts down so the boat can fit inside the bottle's mouth.\\nThe ship should unfold itself after you push it through the opening.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Push the boat through the bottle's mouth stern-first.\", \"描述\": \"The stern is the front side of the boat, which usually is closest to the largest sails and points upward. Holding the masts down with your fingers, push the boat into the bottle's mouth slowly until the hull touches the wood putty lining at the bottom.\\nIf the boat does not fit through the mouth, choose a bottle with a larger mouth or sand the hull to size.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Position the boat in place with a metal rod.\", \"描述\": \"If the boat seems tilted or lopsided, push a metal rod through the opening of the bottle and tap it against the boat. Prod the boat as needed with the metal rod to adjust its alignment and secure it more firmly against the bottom.\\nIf you don't have a metal rod, a wooden stick or metal utensil can work just as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Shut the bottle with a cork, if desired.\", \"描述\": \"Bottle corks are a decorative and traditional way to finish your ship in a bottle. If you're using a glass bottle, place a cork through the bottle's mouth and push it in as far as it will go to keep it from falling out later.\\nYou can find corks online or from some stores that sell alcoholic beverages.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Build a ship that's specifically made to be a ship in a bottle. Only ship in a bottle kits will fold along the hull and feature foldable masts to fit through the bottle's mouth.\\n\", \"Have patience and work carefully when building your ship in a bottle. The different pieces may be fragile, and a slow, steady hand will ensure that you build as complete a model as possible.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,532 |
How to Build a Simple Calculator Using Batch Script
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1. Steps
1-1. Copy the file in Notepad.
1-2. Save the file as something like Calculator.bat.
The best folder place for this file is in your My Documents(any OS besides Vista) or Documents(Windows Vista) folder.
1-3. Double click on file and enjoy.
Tips
Batch is a fun way to start writing programs. To move onto something just a tiny bit harder but much more powerful try the python programming language.
Save frequently. You may regret it if you don't.
Try creating many versions of the game as you go so you can compare them and see if there are any errors. Don't worry about how much space it will take, batch files are very small.
Warnings
Never put any MS DOS commands in the echo command, as they will be carried out. Remember that everything displayed by the command line is an echo!
Never put any MS DOS commands in the text files that are typed out to the console. Text files solve some problems, such as the slashes and stars, but commands in them will still be carried out by the system.
It is often times said that it is illegal to send batch files over the internet. By no means is this true, but be aware of the fact that you may get in trouble for sending dangerous batch files over the internet(e.g.: batch files that crash the computer, delete vital system files, etc...). They are not called viruses, but they are still harmful and you can get in serious trouble for them.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:03",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Copy the file in Notepad.\\n\\n1-2. Save the file as something like Calculator.bat.\\nThe best folder place for this file is in your My Documents(any OS besides Vista) or Documents(Windows Vista) folder.\\n1-3. Double click on file and enjoy.\\n\\nTips\\nBatch is a fun way to start writing programs. To move onto something just a tiny bit harder but much more powerful try the python programming language.\\nSave frequently. You may regret it if you don't.\\nTry creating many versions of the game as you go so you can compare them and see if there are any errors. Don't worry about how much space it will take, batch files are very small.\\nWarnings\\nNever put any MS DOS commands in the echo command, as they will be carried out. Remember that everything displayed by the command line is an echo!\\nNever put any MS DOS commands in the text files that are typed out to the console. Text files solve some problems, such as the slashes and stars, but commands in them will still be carried out by the system.\\nIt is often times said that it is illegal to send batch files over the internet. By no means is this true, but be aware of the fact that you may get in trouble for sending dangerous batch files over the internet(e.g.: batch files that crash the computer, delete vital system files, etc...). They are not called viruses, but they are still harmful and you can get in serious trouble for them.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Batch script is a basic scripting language that runs on any Windows or MS DOS operating system, the functions are based on the commands for the command lines in these operating systems. Also its pretty cool! Making a game with this script is not that difficult, all it takes is a little time and creativity. Please note: in order for this project to work properly, you will need Windows 2000 or higher, as this will not work in earlier versions of Windows or MS DOS, since MS DOS is not compatible with modern batch scripts.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Copy the file in Notepad.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Save the file as something like Calculator.bat.\", \"描述\": \"The best folder place for this file is in your My Documents(any OS besides Vista) or Documents(Windows Vista) folder.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Double click on file and enjoy.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Batch is a fun way to start writing programs. To move onto something just a tiny bit harder but much more powerful try the python programming language.\\n\", \"Save frequently. You may regret it if you don't.\\n\", \"Try creating many versions of the game as you go so you can compare them and see if there are any errors. Don't worry about how much space it will take, batch files are very small.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Never put any MS DOS commands in the echo command, as they will be carried out. Remember that everything displayed by the command line is an echo!\\n\", \"Never put any MS DOS commands in the text files that are typed out to the console. Text files solve some problems, such as the slashes and stars, but commands in them will still be carried out by the system.\\n\", \"It is often times said that it is illegal to send batch files over the internet. By no means is this true, but be aware of the fact that you may get in trouble for sending dangerous batch files over the internet(e.g.: batch files that crash the computer, delete vital system files, etc...). They are not called viruses, but they are still harmful and you can get in serious trouble for them.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,533 |
How to Build a Simple Cigar Box Guitar
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1. Steps
1-1. Gather your materials listed in this step.
For a condensed version, go to the “Things You’ll Need” section.
To start off with you will need of course a cigar box. Do not get a cigar box from a convenience store as they are thin and made of cardboard. Get one from a true tobacco/cigar store. Do not spend more than $3 for a paper-covered box and no more than $5 for a wooden box unless it is a specific box. Some places will give them away; however most will charge something. A box in the range of 9" wide, 7" deep and 1 1/2" thick is fine. Something along with a Maduro sized box. Anything much smaller and you will not be able to get a lot of sounds. Too big is not a problem but you will have to adjust the measurements of wood.
We will be making what is called a neck trough design where the neck enters one side of the box and exits the other. This design allows for a strong neck and a place to terminate the strings on either end. You will need a length of wood as the neck. This article will show you how to use a standard 1x2 piece of wood (poplar or oak, do not use pine or fire) as a neck. The aforementioned 1x2 lumber is actually 3/4" x 1 1/2", and you must measure using these measurements. The piece should be 3 to 4 foot (0.9 to 1.2 m) long. You will also need standard guitar tuning pegs, a pack of 11 or 12 gauge strings, a piece of 1/4" X 1 1/2" bolt, and a 1/4" X 2 1/2" eye bolt. These will be the nut and bridge respectively. The nut is the piece closest to the guitar tuning pegs. You will also need a 1/4" x 1 1/2"x 2' piece of oak or poplar as the fingerboard.
You will also need some basic tools such as a saw (basic hand saw and coping saw if you can get one), screwdriver, wood glue, hammer, drill and bits, wood file or rasp, sandpaper, rubber bands (as clamps) utility knife, ruler or yardstick, 1" deck screws are handy but you can use something similar. Be sure to have a sharpie or pencil and some painter’s tape (tape to mark on without marking on the box).
1-2. Determine if you are going to make a left or right-handed guitar.
A right-handed guitar has the neck oriented to the left. The tuning pegs will be on the left and the tail of the guitar will be on the right. A left-handed guitar will be the opposite. Measure and mark accordingly!
Take the box and remove the lid by cutting it along the paper seam in the back. This will help you cut the box and position the neck without having the lid in the way. Looking at the box front on, find the center of the left and right sides, and mark it on the painter's tape. mark 3/4" from the center. This is where you will cut the box down for the neck. Mark on the outside of the left and right side 1" down. Cut these areas out of both ends of the box. The holes on each end should be 1 1/2" x 1".
1-3. Determine the scale of the instrument.
The scale is the distance between the nut (tuning peg or head) end of the strings and the bridge. There are no rules as to length but 24" is a good start so we will use that.
Put neck stock in the box with about 1 1/2" sticking out the side and measure 3/4 the way into the box from where the tail end meets the box. This is where the bridge will be. Mark on the neck stock in pencil where the neck meets the outside of the box on each end. Do not worry that your neck seems deeper as the hole it sits in. It should be about 1/4" deeper. Adjust as needed.
1-4. Mark the neck.
Remove the neck stock and measure from the bridge mark out 24" along the neck. This point is where the nut will be. Remember the nut is where the strings end at the head end.
1-5. Trim the head down.
At the head end of the neck, you are going to make a series of cuts that will thin out the head so that you can apply the tuning pegs. You will need thin the head down to 5/8" from its 3/4" thickness. From the point where you have the mark for nuts, measure about 5 1/2" out on the neck and cut there. Measure 5/8" from the bottom of the neck in the head area and mark this the length of the head area on both sides.
You will need to remove the 1/8" to 3/16" from the top of the neck. Hold or clamp the neck in a vertical position and saw down the neck along the mark in the head area. Saw until you reach about 1/2" from where the nut will be. Cut this area out from the top. Don't worry if you didn't get it straight or if the cut was even. Using hand tools is difficult and you can always make a new neck later.
1-6. Attach the tuning pegs.
You will need to make a series of holes in the head area for the tuning pegs. Take two pegs that are for one side and one for the opposite side and arrange them on the neck so that they are not too close together (about 1/4" apart). Something like left-right-left or right-left-right. Mark where the holes should be and drill 3/8" holes in the head. Make sure the shaft of the tuning pegs are 3/8". If not, use the appropriate drill bit.
1-7. Mark the bridge position.
Lay the neck in the box where you marked the outsides on the neck. Measure from the box edge to where the bridge mark is. Put the lid on and lay a piece of painters tape where the bridge should be using the same distance you just measured. Mark this point. This is where the eyebolt/bridge will be.
1-8. Make the tail end holes.
Remove the neck and on the tail end in the are that sticks out, drill three 1/8" holes roughly 3/8" apart. They can be closer or farther, but make sure the center one is centered to the neck. You can drill in any spot or shape you want (see example picture).
1-9. Assemble the parts and glue or screw them down.
Place the neck back in the box and replace the lid. You can glue the lid shut if you want. Use rubber bands or painters tape to hold the lid shut. You can screw the lid onto the neck if you want or you can glue it as well.
1-10. Make the fingerboard’s nut.
Place the 1/4"x2" poplar strip on top of the neck so that it sits flush with the lid and mark it where the head was cut. Make sure it covers where the nut was marked. The nut will sit on top of the fingerboard.
Once cut, glue it onto the neck by spreading the glue thinly on both the neck and the fingerboard using an old credit card or cardboard. Place them together, wipe off the excess glue, and clamp using rubber bands. Allow it to dry.
1-11. Assemble the guitar.
Once all the glue is dry, remove the tape from the lid and the rubber bands from the neck. Attach the guitar tuners using the screws provided. Glue the nut in place using a small amount of glue as well as the bridge. Use painters tape to hold them until dry.
1-12. Make the sound holes.
Once all the parts are dry, remove the tape and cut two holes in the lid for the sound holes (see picture). The holes can be about 1" to 1 1/2". Try to center them as best as possible. Try using painters tape to mark where you want the center of the holes to be.
1-13. Customize your guitar (optional).
Here are a few suggestions.
Paint or apply artwork to the box
Add “fret marks” so you will know where the notes are
Make a nut out of 1/16"x1/16" wood or Corian(tm). You can also make a different bridge.
Install a piezo type pickup system.
Angle the head back by cutting a scarf joint.
Shape the back of the neck to more of a D-shape using a wood rasp or spoke shave.
Apply grommets or metal drain hole covers as sound hole decorations.
Tips
Painters tape is your friend. It doesn't stick as much as masking tape and can be marked on and removed easily.
You can stain and put a finish on the neck before you assemble the CBG.
Sometimes guitar tuners will sit a little tight. You can buy a reamer to open the holes to make the pegs go in easier.
Warnings
Beware! Some woods are hazardous when inhaled. Please know your woods and how to treat them.
Don't use pine or fir. These woods are not strong and cannot hold up to the tensions of the strings.
Use proper safety procedures. Tools can cut and power tools can cut quickly.
Sand wood and use paints and solvents in well-ventilated areas.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:03",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Gather your materials listed in this step.\\nFor a condensed version, go to the “Things You’ll Need” section.\\nTo start off with you will need of course a cigar box. Do not get a cigar box from a convenience store as they are thin and made of cardboard. Get one from a true tobacco/cigar store. Do not spend more than $3 for a paper-covered box and no more than $5 for a wooden box unless it is a specific box. Some places will give them away; however most will charge something. A box in the range of 9\\\" wide, 7\\\" deep and 1 1/2\\\" thick is fine. Something along with a Maduro sized box. Anything much smaller and you will not be able to get a lot of sounds. Too big is not a problem but you will have to adjust the measurements of wood.\\nWe will be making what is called a neck trough design where the neck enters one side of the box and exits the other. This design allows for a strong neck and a place to terminate the strings on either end. You will need a length of wood as the neck. This article will show you how to use a standard 1x2 piece of wood (poplar or oak, do not use pine or fire) as a neck. The aforementioned 1x2 lumber is actually 3/4\\\" x 1 1/2\\\", and you must measure using these measurements. The piece should be 3 to 4 foot (0.9 to 1.2 m) long. You will also need standard guitar tuning pegs, a pack of 11 or 12 gauge strings, a piece of 1/4\\\" X 1 1/2\\\" bolt, and a 1/4\\\" X 2 1/2\\\" eye bolt. These will be the nut and bridge respectively. The nut is the piece closest to the guitar tuning pegs. You will also need a 1/4\\\" x 1 1/2\\\"x 2' piece of oak or poplar as the fingerboard.\\nYou will also need some basic tools such as a saw (basic hand saw and coping saw if you can get one), screwdriver, wood glue, hammer, drill and bits, wood file or rasp, sandpaper, rubber bands (as clamps) utility knife, ruler or yardstick, 1\\\" deck screws are handy but you can use something similar. Be sure to have a sharpie or pencil and some painter’s tape (tape to mark on without marking on the box).\\n1-2. Determine if you are going to make a left or right-handed guitar.\\nA right-handed guitar has the neck oriented to the left. The tuning pegs will be on the left and the tail of the guitar will be on the right. A left-handed guitar will be the opposite. Measure and mark accordingly!\\nTake the box and remove the lid by cutting it along the paper seam in the back. This will help you cut the box and position the neck without having the lid in the way. Looking at the box front on, find the center of the left and right sides, and mark it on the painter's tape. mark 3/4\\\" from the center. This is where you will cut the box down for the neck. Mark on the outside of the left and right side 1\\\" down. Cut these areas out of both ends of the box. The holes on each end should be 1 1/2\\\" x 1\\\".\\n1-3. Determine the scale of the instrument.\\nThe scale is the distance between the nut (tuning peg or head) end of the strings and the bridge. There are no rules as to length but 24\\\" is a good start so we will use that.\\nPut neck stock in the box with about 1 1/2\\\" sticking out the side and measure 3/4 the way into the box from where the tail end meets the box. This is where the bridge will be. Mark on the neck stock in pencil where the neck meets the outside of the box on each end. Do not worry that your neck seems deeper as the hole it sits in. It should be about 1/4\\\" deeper. Adjust as needed.\\n1-4. Mark the neck.\\nRemove the neck stock and measure from the bridge mark out 24\\\" along the neck. This point is where the nut will be. Remember the nut is where the strings end at the head end.\\n1-5. Trim the head down.\\nAt the head end of the neck, you are going to make a series of cuts that will thin out the head so that you can apply the tuning pegs. You will need thin the head down to 5/8\\\" from its 3/4\\\" thickness. From the point where you have the mark for nuts, measure about 5 1/2\\\" out on the neck and cut there. Measure 5/8\\\" from the bottom of the neck in the head area and mark this the length of the head area on both sides.\\nYou will need to remove the 1/8\\\" to 3/16\\\" from the top of the neck. Hold or clamp the neck in a vertical position and saw down the neck along the mark in the head area. Saw until you reach about 1/2\\\" from where the nut will be. Cut this area out from the top. Don't worry if you didn't get it straight or if the cut was even. Using hand tools is difficult and you can always make a new neck later.\\n1-6. Attach the tuning pegs.\\nYou will need to make a series of holes in the head area for the tuning pegs. Take two pegs that are for one side and one for the opposite side and arrange them on the neck so that they are not too close together (about 1/4\\\" apart). Something like left-right-left or right-left-right. Mark where the holes should be and drill 3/8\\\" holes in the head. Make sure the shaft of the tuning pegs are 3/8\\\". If not, use the appropriate drill bit.\\n1-7. Mark the bridge position.\\nLay the neck in the box where you marked the outsides on the neck. Measure from the box edge to where the bridge mark is. Put the lid on and lay a piece of painters tape where the bridge should be using the same distance you just measured. Mark this point. This is where the eyebolt/bridge will be.\\n1-8. Make the tail end holes.\\nRemove the neck and on the tail end in the are that sticks out, drill three 1/8\\\" holes roughly 3/8\\\" apart. They can be closer or farther, but make sure the center one is centered to the neck. You can drill in any spot or shape you want (see example picture).\\n1-9. Assemble the parts and glue or screw them down.\\nPlace the neck back in the box and replace the lid. You can glue the lid shut if you want. Use rubber bands or painters tape to hold the lid shut. You can screw the lid onto the neck if you want or you can glue it as well.\\n1-10. Make the fingerboard’s nut.\\nPlace the 1/4\\\"x2\\\" poplar strip on top of the neck so that it sits flush with the lid and mark it where the head was cut. Make sure it covers where the nut was marked. The nut will sit on top of the fingerboard.\\nOnce cut, glue it onto the neck by spreading the glue thinly on both the neck and the fingerboard using an old credit card or cardboard. Place them together, wipe off the excess glue, and clamp using rubber bands. Allow it to dry.\\n1-11. Assemble the guitar.\\nOnce all the glue is dry, remove the tape from the lid and the rubber bands from the neck. Attach the guitar tuners using the screws provided. Glue the nut in place using a small amount of glue as well as the bridge. Use painters tape to hold them until dry.\\n1-12. Make the sound holes.\\nOnce all the parts are dry, remove the tape and cut two holes in the lid for the sound holes (see picture). The holes can be about 1\\\" to 1 1/2\\\". Try to center them as best as possible. Try using painters tape to mark where you want the center of the holes to be.\\n1-13. Customize your guitar (optional).\\nHere are a few suggestions.\\nPaint or apply artwork to the box\\nAdd “fret marks” so you will know where the notes are\\nMake a nut out of 1/16\\\"x1/16\\\" wood or Corian(tm). You can also make a different bridge.\\nInstall a piezo type pickup system.\\nAngle the head back by cutting a scarf joint.\\nShape the back of the neck to more of a D-shape using a wood rasp or spoke shave.\\nApply grommets or metal drain hole covers as sound hole decorations.\\nTips\\nPainters tape is your friend. It doesn't stick as much as masking tape and can be marked on and removed easily.\\nYou can stain and put a finish on the neck before you assemble the CBG.\\nSometimes guitar tuners will sit a little tight. You can buy a reamer to open the holes to make the pegs go in easier.\\nWarnings\\nBeware! Some woods are hazardous when inhaled. Please know your woods and how to treat them.\\nDon't use pine or fir. These woods are not strong and cannot hold up to the tensions of the strings.\\nUse proper safety procedures. Tools can cut and power tools can cut quickly.\\nSand wood and use paints and solvents in well-ventilated areas.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Cigar box guitars are nothing new, but there has been a resurgence in the art of building and playing them. From the mid-1800s until the early 1900s, cigar box and home-built guitars have been made by budding musicians who generally came from poor rural areas. The blues are typically associated with these fascinating instruments. They have shown up in many areas of the US, mainly in the deep south to the Carolinas. Some have been seen as far north as Virginia and Pennsylvania as those who could not afford a proper guitar would make their own.If you want to know more about the history of cigar box guitars, read \\\"One Man's Trash: A History of the Cigar Box Guitar\\\" by William J Jehle (self-published). Here's how you can make one.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials listed in this step.\", \"描述\": \"For a condensed version, go to the “Things You’ll Need” section.\\nTo start off with you will need of course a cigar box. Do not get a cigar box from a convenience store as they are thin and made of cardboard. Get one from a true tobacco/cigar store. Do not spend more than $3 for a paper-covered box and no more than $5 for a wooden box unless it is a specific box. Some places will give them away; however most will charge something. A box in the range of 9\\\" wide, 7\\\" deep and 1 1/2\\\" thick is fine. Something along with a Maduro sized box. Anything much smaller and you will not be able to get a lot of sounds. Too big is not a problem but you will have to adjust the measurements of wood.\\nWe will be making what is called a neck trough design where the neck enters one side of the box and exits the other. This design allows for a strong neck and a place to terminate the strings on either end. You will need a length of wood as the neck. This article will show you how to use a standard 1x2 piece of wood (poplar or oak, do not use pine or fire) as a neck. The aforementioned 1x2 lumber is actually 3/4\\\" x 1 1/2\\\", and you must measure using these measurements. The piece should be 3 to 4 foot (0.9 to 1.2 m) long. You will also need standard guitar tuning pegs, a pack of 11 or 12 gauge strings, a piece of 1/4\\\" X 1 1/2\\\" bolt, and a 1/4\\\" X 2 1/2\\\" eye bolt. These will be the nut and bridge respectively. The nut is the piece closest to the guitar tuning pegs. You will also need a 1/4\\\" x 1 1/2\\\"x 2' piece of oak or poplar as the fingerboard.\\nYou will also need some basic tools such as a saw (basic hand saw and coping saw if you can get one), screwdriver, wood glue, hammer, drill and bits, wood file or rasp, sandpaper, rubber bands (as clamps) utility knife, ruler or yardstick, 1\\\" deck screws are handy but you can use something similar. Be sure to have a sharpie or pencil and some painter’s tape (tape to mark on without marking on the box).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine if you are going to make a left or right-handed guitar.\", \"描述\": \"A right-handed guitar has the neck oriented to the left. The tuning pegs will be on the left and the tail of the guitar will be on the right. A left-handed guitar will be the opposite. Measure and mark accordingly!\\nTake the box and remove the lid by cutting it along the paper seam in the back. This will help you cut the box and position the neck without having the lid in the way. Looking at the box front on, find the center of the left and right sides, and mark it on the painter's tape. mark 3/4\\\" from the center. This is where you will cut the box down for the neck. Mark on the outside of the left and right side 1\\\" down. Cut these areas out of both ends of the box. The holes on each end should be 1 1/2\\\" x 1\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Determine the scale of the instrument.\", \"描述\": \"The scale is the distance between the nut (tuning peg or head) end of the strings and the bridge. There are no rules as to length but 24\\\" is a good start so we will use that.\\nPut neck stock in the box with about 1 1/2\\\" sticking out the side and measure 3/4 the way into the box from where the tail end meets the box. This is where the bridge will be. Mark on the neck stock in pencil where the neck meets the outside of the box on each end. Do not worry that your neck seems deeper as the hole it sits in. It should be about 1/4\\\" deeper. Adjust as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mark the neck.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the neck stock and measure from the bridge mark out 24\\\" along the neck. This point is where the nut will be. Remember the nut is where the strings end at the head end.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Trim the head down.\", \"描述\": \"At the head end of the neck, you are going to make a series of cuts that will thin out the head so that you can apply the tuning pegs. You will need thin the head down to 5/8\\\" from its 3/4\\\" thickness. From the point where you have the mark for nuts, measure about 5 1/2\\\" out on the neck and cut there. Measure 5/8\\\" from the bottom of the neck in the head area and mark this the length of the head area on both sides.\\nYou will need to remove the 1/8\\\" to 3/16\\\" from the top of the neck. Hold or clamp the neck in a vertical position and saw down the neck along the mark in the head area. Saw until you reach about 1/2\\\" from where the nut will be. Cut this area out from the top. Don't worry if you didn't get it straight or if the cut was even. Using hand tools is difficult and you can always make a new neck later.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the tuning pegs.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to make a series of holes in the head area for the tuning pegs. Take two pegs that are for one side and one for the opposite side and arrange them on the neck so that they are not too close together (about 1/4\\\" apart). Something like left-right-left or right-left-right. Mark where the holes should be and drill 3/8\\\" holes in the head. Make sure the shaft of the tuning pegs are 3/8\\\". If not, use the appropriate drill bit.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Mark the bridge position.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the neck in the box where you marked the outsides on the neck. Measure from the box edge to where the bridge mark is. Put the lid on and lay a piece of painters tape where the bridge should be using the same distance you just measured. Mark this point. This is where the eyebolt/bridge will be.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Make the tail end holes.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the neck and on the tail end in the are that sticks out, drill three 1/8\\\" holes roughly 3/8\\\" apart. They can be closer or farther, but make sure the center one is centered to the neck. You can drill in any spot or shape you want (see example picture).\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Assemble the parts and glue or screw them down.\", \"描述\": \"Place the neck back in the box and replace the lid. You can glue the lid shut if you want. Use rubber bands or painters tape to hold the lid shut. You can screw the lid onto the neck if you want or you can glue it as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Make the fingerboard’s nut.\", \"描述\": \"Place the 1/4\\\"x2\\\" poplar strip on top of the neck so that it sits flush with the lid and mark it where the head was cut. Make sure it covers where the nut was marked. The nut will sit on top of the fingerboard.\\nOnce cut, glue it onto the neck by spreading the glue thinly on both the neck and the fingerboard using an old credit card or cardboard. Place them together, wipe off the excess glue, and clamp using rubber bands. Allow it to dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Assemble the guitar.\", \"描述\": \"Once all the glue is dry, remove the tape from the lid and the rubber bands from the neck. Attach the guitar tuners using the screws provided. Glue the nut in place using a small amount of glue as well as the bridge. Use painters tape to hold them until dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Make the sound holes.\", \"描述\": \"Once all the parts are dry, remove the tape and cut two holes in the lid for the sound holes (see picture). The holes can be about 1\\\" to 1 1/2\\\". Try to center them as best as possible. Try using painters tape to mark where you want the center of the holes to be.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Customize your guitar (optional).\", \"描述\": \"Here are a few suggestions.\\nPaint or apply artwork to the box\\nAdd “fret marks” so you will know where the notes are\\nMake a nut out of 1/16\\\"x1/16\\\" wood or Corian(tm). You can also make a different bridge.\\nInstall a piezo type pickup system.\\nAngle the head back by cutting a scarf joint.\\nShape the back of the neck to more of a D-shape using a wood rasp or spoke shave.\\nApply grommets or metal drain hole covers as sound hole decorations.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Painters tape is your friend. It doesn't stick as much as masking tape and can be marked on and removed easily.\\n\", \"You can stain and put a finish on the neck before you assemble the CBG.\\n\", \"Sometimes guitar tuners will sit a little tight. You can buy a reamer to open the holes to make the pegs go in easier.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Beware! Some woods are hazardous when inhaled. Please know your woods and how to treat them.\\n\", \"Don't use pine or fir. These woods are not strong and cannot hold up to the tensions of the strings.\\n\", \"Use proper safety procedures. Tools can cut and power tools can cut quickly.\\n\", \"Sand wood and use paints and solvents in well-ventilated areas.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,534 |
How to Build a Simple Computer Game Using Batch Script
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1. Steps
1-1. Decide on a game.
Before deciding to make a shoot-em-up game or point-and-click game, know that even with MS DOS 8, batch script has serious limitations to its capabilities. You will not be able to create more of a game than a text-based game. It can be a quiz or a scenario game, but you will have only text. As to whether or not you want to have ASCII graphics is up to you, but the game will still be based entirely on text input.
1-2. Learn the script.
The script is not that hard to learn, you may even learn it simply by looking at a program. To know any scripting language you may need to know some basic commands in your computer's command line. For this command line, the basic commands that you will need are:
echo
color
title
goto
if
set
labeling (not a command, but how to label)
1-3. Learn how to use the above commands.
The echo command is used to print out text to the console. Below, the echo command prints out "Hello, world!":
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/9\/9e\/610238-3b1.jpg\/v4-460px-610238-3b1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/9\/9e\/610238-3b1.jpg\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
The color command is used to change the color of the text in the command line. This isn't very useful, and probably shouldn't be focused on until you have finished the game itself, but the results of the color change can be quite appealing. Colors in DOS command lines are numbered, there is a table of the colors at the end of this article. The following command will change the text color to black background with green text:
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/0\/07\/610238-3b2.jpg\/v4-460px-610238-3b2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/0\/07\/610238-3b2.jpg\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
The title command simply changes the name of the window on the title bar and task bar, and is by no means useful, however, it can make your program look professional. Using it like so will change the title of the window to "Fun Program":
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/4\/4e\/610238-3b3.jpg\/v4-460px-610238-3b3.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/4\/4e\/610238-3b3.jpg\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b3.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
The goto command is used to go to a certain part of the program. You will be using it to determine what will happen when certain answers are chosen from questions. To use the goto command to go to a label called "WRONG":
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/1\/12\/610238-3b4.jpg\/v4-460px-610238-3b4.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/1\/12\/610238-3b4.jpg\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b4.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
The if command is used to determine what will happen if a certain event occurs. After the if statement (if [something]), a command follows. At the if statement, if a certain event is true, the command in the statement will be carried out. You will be using this statement to determine which goto command is to be used. This if statement will be true if the input is equal to 12:
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/e\/eb\/610238-3b5.jpg\/v4-460px-610238-3b5.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/e\/eb\/610238-3b5.jpg\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b5.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
The set command is actually quite complicated, since it may be used in many ways. As for now, all you need it for is to get the computer to receive input. To do this:
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/1\/10\/610238-3b6.jpg\/v4-460px-610238-3b6.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/1\/10\/610238-3b6.jpg\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b6.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
Finally, labeling. Labeling can name certain parts of the program so that you may use the goto command. You can name certain sections of the program anything, so long as the name isn't a command. To label a section "main", type the following:
:MAIN
Labeled sections include the label itself and all code that follow it until another label is present or the file reaches the end! Make sure you place the label the section being labeled, and another label following it so that the computer understands what section is labeled! Example below:
@echo off
:LABEL1
echo THIS IS A TEST OF TEXT
set/p input=THIS IS A TEST INPUT_
if %input%==1 goto LABEL1
goto LABEL2
:LABEL2
echo TEST
The first line of the above program may have been confusing to you. This line turns off the display of the code inside the file, so it doesn't look like it was all typed out on a console. As of now that is unimportant, right now you should be determining what the above program will do(ignore the first line). The program will display text saying "THIS IS A TEST OF TEXT", then it will prompt for input. If the input is "1"(meaning you typed in 1), the program will return to LABEL1 and the commands below it will repeat. If the condition in the if statement is not met, the computer will print text to the console "TEST". Copy the above program into two different windows running notepad. In one, save it as TEST1 in any folder and run it. Notice how the text is displayed. In the second window, erase the first line and save it as TEST2 and run it. Notice the difference?
Once you have a general understanding of how the above commands may be used, you may move on to the next step.
1-4. Start scripting your game.
It is suggested that a beginner use notepad, but if you would like to use MS DOS EDIT, that's fine, too. It is also suggested to a beginner to begin with a basic quiz game, so this is what this article will show you how to do. Remember to start by turning off the echo. Then introduce your game with some text through the echo command, then use set to allow input with the goto command. This may sound confusing, so look above (Note: the command creates comments, i.e. notes for the developer that won't show in the final result):
1-5. Work on the instructions page.
At this point, you should save your file(save as something.bat), and put it in a folder that you created for the game. After saving it, run it and make sure it works.
From this point on you will be having multiple files per game (especially if you want to have ASCII graphics). You can get the batch script to print out the contents of any file on the screen with the type command. The below will print the contents of TEST.txt:
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/5\/56\/610238-5b1.jpg\/v4-460px-610238-5b1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/5\/56\/610238-5b1.jpg\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
It's important to remember to include the file extension, or the command may not work properly.
Create an instructions page in notepad. It should say something like:
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/8\/87\/610238-5b2.jpg\/v4-460px-610238-5b2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/8\/87\/610238-5b2.jpg\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
Save this as INST.txt in the folder of the batch file, then make it so that your game will print the text to the console on the instructions page:
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/a\/a4\/610238-5b3.jpg\/v4-460px-610238-5b3.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/a\/a4\/610238-5b3.jpg\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b3.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
Run the program and make sure it works.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/7\/7d\/610238-5b4.jpg\/v4-460px-610238-5b4.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/7\/7d\/610238-5b4.jpg\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b4.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"}
1-6. Work on the contents of the game itself.
This is where most of your creativity/research, work, and time is spent working on the game, as well as where most of the game's scripting should be. There should be a place that you go when you get an answer wrong, and a way to advance to the next question when you get the answer right. The above will have basic questions about the exterior of a car. You may replace them with what you like.
Run the program and make sure it works.
1-7. Create a winning screen.
Creating a winning screen is as simple as the instructions screen. Create a text document with praise for winning and save it as WIN.txt in the batch folder. Add the following lines to the end of your game for the winning screen:
1-8. Your game should now look like the code above:
Run the program and make sure it works.
1-9. Touch up your file.
Start by going to each label and placing the cls command after it. This will clear the screen at each label so you don't have a screen full of unnecessary information.
1-10. Correct grammar where appropriate.
If you want, make all of the answers on the list complete sentences. You should also avoid slashes and greater than/less than symbols, stars, percent symbols, and any other unusual symbols. These symbols will create a syntax error that causes the program to stop, lag, or crash.
1-11. Create graphics for the game if you would like.
Generate ASCII art in separate text documents and use the type command to display them in the program:
1-12. Correct any typing errors that you can find.
Think of your own things to correct. Then add your color with the color command. It is suggested that you place it at the beginning of the program so that the whole program is of this color. Here is the explanation of how to use it directly from the command line:
Sets the default console foreground and background colors.
COLOR [attr]
attr Specifies color attribute of console output
Color attributes are specified by TWO hex digits -- the first
corresponds to the background; the second the foreground. Each digit
can be any of the following values:
0 = Black 8 = Gray
1 = Blue 9 = Light Blue
2 = Green A = Light Green
3 = Aqua B = Light Aqua
4 = Red C = Light Red
5 = Purple D = Light Purple
6 = Yellow E = Light Yellow
7 = White F = Bright White
If no argument is given, this command restores the color to what it was
when CMD.EXE started. This value either comes from the current console
window, the /T command line switch or from the Default Color registry
value.
In other words, if you wanted a bright white background and black text:
@echo off
color f0
:MAIN
cls
echo.
1-13. Congratulations, you have just created a basic computer game with batch script!
Tips
If you want to save something as a batch file but don't want to finish it just yet, you can edit the file again by right-clicking and selecting "Edit".
Batch is a fun way to start writing programs. To move onto something just a tiny bit harder but much more powerful try the python programming language.
When saving, make sure you to change the drop down menu under the file name input box from "text (txt) document" to "All files". After doing that, ensure that your file name always ends with .bat.
Warnings
It is often times said that it is illegal to send batch files over the internet. By no means is this true, but be aware of the fact that you may get in trouble for sending dangerous batch files over the internet(e.g.: batch files that crash the computer, delete vital system files, etc...). They are not called viruses, but they are still harmful and you can get in serious trouble for them.
NEVER put any MS DOS commands in the echo command, as they will be carried out. Remember that everything displayed by the command line is an echo!
NEVER put any MS DOS commands in the text files that are typed out to the console. Text files solve some problems, such as the slashes and stars, but commands in them will still be carried out by the system.
Be wary of the "del" command. Although it can be used to delete, for example, users for a longer game, it is unrestricted and can be used to delete anything, including vital files. NEVER use this command until you really know what you're doing with it.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:03",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Decide on a game.\\nBefore deciding to make a shoot-em-up game or point-and-click game, know that even with MS DOS 8, batch script has serious limitations to its capabilities. You will not be able to create more of a game than a text-based game. It can be a quiz or a scenario game, but you will have only text. As to whether or not you want to have ASCII graphics is up to you, but the game will still be based entirely on text input.\\n1-2. Learn the script.\\nThe script is not that hard to learn, you may even learn it simply by looking at a program. To know any scripting language you may need to know some basic commands in your computer's command line. For this command line, the basic commands that you will need are: \\necho\\ncolor\\ntitle\\ngoto\\nif\\nset\\nlabeling (not a command, but how to label)\\n1-3. Learn how to use the above commands.\\nThe echo command is used to print out text to the console. Below, the echo command prints out \\\"Hello, world!\\\": \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9e\\\\/610238-3b1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9e\\\\/610238-3b1.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\nThe color command is used to change the color of the text in the command line. This isn't very useful, and probably shouldn't be focused on until you have finished the game itself, but the results of the color change can be quite appealing. Colors in DOS command lines are numbered, there is a table of the colors at the end of this article. The following command will change the text color to black background with green text: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/07\\\\/610238-3b2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/07\\\\/610238-3b2.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe title command simply changes the name of the window on the title bar and task bar, and is by no means useful, however, it can make your program look professional. Using it like so will change the title of the window to \\\"Fun Program\\\": \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4e\\\\/610238-3b3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4e\\\\/610238-3b3.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe goto command is used to go to a certain part of the program. You will be using it to determine what will happen when certain answers are chosen from questions. To use the goto command to go to a label called \\\"WRONG\\\": \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/12\\\\/610238-3b4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/12\\\\/610238-3b4.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe if command is used to determine what will happen if a certain event occurs. After the if statement (if [something]), a command follows. At the if statement, if a certain event is true, the command in the statement will be carried out. You will be using this statement to determine which goto command is to be used. This if statement will be true if the input is equal to 12: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/eb\\\\/610238-3b5.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b5.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/eb\\\\/610238-3b5.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b5.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe set command is actually quite complicated, since it may be used in many ways. As for now, all you need it for is to get the computer to receive input. To do this: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/10\\\\/610238-3b6.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b6.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/10\\\\/610238-3b6.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b6.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nFinally, labeling. Labeling can name certain parts of the program so that you may use the goto command. You can name certain sections of the program anything, so long as the name isn't a command. To label a section \\\"main\\\", type the following:\\n:MAIN\\n\\nLabeled sections include the label itself and all code that follow it until another label is present or the file reaches the end! Make sure you place the label the section being labeled, and another label following it so that the computer understands what section is labeled! Example below:\\n@echo off\\n:LABEL1\\necho THIS IS A TEST OF TEXT\\nset/p input=THIS IS A TEST INPUT_\\nif %input%==1 goto LABEL1\\ngoto LABEL2\\n:LABEL2\\necho TEST\\n\\nThe first line of the above program may have been confusing to you. This line turns off the display of the code inside the file, so it doesn't look like it was all typed out on a console. As of now that is unimportant, right now you should be determining what the above program will do(ignore the first line). The program will display text saying \\\"THIS IS A TEST OF TEXT\\\", then it will prompt for input. If the input is \\\"1\\\"(meaning you typed in 1), the program will return to LABEL1 and the commands below it will repeat. If the condition in the if statement is not met, the computer will print text to the console \\\"TEST\\\". Copy the above program into two different windows running notepad. In one, save it as TEST1 in any folder and run it. Notice how the text is displayed. In the second window, erase the first line and save it as TEST2 and run it. Notice the difference?\\n\\nOnce you have a general understanding of how the above commands may be used, you may move on to the next step.\\n1-4. Start scripting your game.\\nIt is suggested that a beginner use notepad, but if you would like to use MS DOS EDIT, that's fine, too. It is also suggested to a beginner to begin with a basic quiz game, so this is what this article will show you how to do. Remember to start by turning off the echo. Then introduce your game with some text through the echo command, then use set to allow input with the goto command. This may sound confusing, so look above (Note: the command creates comments, i.e. notes for the developer that won't show in the final result):\\n1-5. Work on the instructions page.\\nAt this point, you should save your file(save as something.bat), and put it in a folder that you created for the game. After saving it, run it and make sure it works. \\nFrom this point on you will be having multiple files per game (especially if you want to have ASCII graphics). You can get the batch script to print out the contents of any file on the screen with the type command. The below will print the contents of TEST.txt: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/56\\\\/610238-5b1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-5b1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/56\\\\/610238-5b1.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nIt's important to remember to include the file extension, or the command may not work properly.\\nCreate an instructions page in notepad. It should say something like: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/87\\\\/610238-5b2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-5b2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/87\\\\/610238-5b2.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSave this as INST.txt in the folder of the batch file, then make it so that your game will print the text to the console on the instructions page: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a4\\\\/610238-5b3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-5b3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a4\\\\/610238-5b3.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nRun the program and make sure it works. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7d\\\\/610238-5b4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-5b4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7d\\\\/610238-5b4.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-6. Work on the contents of the game itself.\\nThis is where most of your creativity/research, work, and time is spent working on the game, as well as where most of the game's scripting should be. There should be a place that you go when you get an answer wrong, and a way to advance to the next question when you get the answer right. The above will have basic questions about the exterior of a car. You may replace them with what you like. \\nRun the program and make sure it works.\\n1-7. Create a winning screen.\\nCreating a winning screen is as simple as the instructions screen. Create a text document with praise for winning and save it as WIN.txt in the batch folder. Add the following lines to the end of your game for the winning screen:\\n1-8. Your game should now look like the code above:\\nRun the program and make sure it works.\\n1-9. Touch up your file.\\nStart by going to each label and placing the cls command after it. This will clear the screen at each label so you don't have a screen full of unnecessary information.\\n1-10. Correct grammar where appropriate.\\nIf you want, make all of the answers on the list complete sentences. You should also avoid slashes and greater than/less than symbols, stars, percent symbols, and any other unusual symbols. These symbols will create a syntax error that causes the program to stop, lag, or crash.\\n1-11. Create graphics for the game if you would like.\\nGenerate ASCII art in separate text documents and use the type command to display them in the program:\\n1-12. Correct any typing errors that you can find.\\nThink of your own things to correct. Then add your color with the color command. It is suggested that you place it at the beginning of the program so that the whole program is of this color. Here is the explanation of how to use it directly from the command line: \\n\\n\\nSets the default console foreground and background colors.\\nCOLOR [attr]\\n attr Specifies color attribute of console output\\nColor attributes are specified by TWO hex digits -- the first\\ncorresponds to the background; the second the foreground. Each digit\\ncan be any of the following values:\\n 0 = Black 8 = Gray\\n 1 = Blue 9 = Light Blue\\n 2 = Green A = Light Green\\n 3 = Aqua B = Light Aqua\\n 4 = Red C = Light Red\\n 5 = Purple D = Light Purple\\n 6 = Yellow E = Light Yellow\\n 7 = White F = Bright White\\nIf no argument is given, this command restores the color to what it was\\nwhen CMD.EXE started. This value either comes from the current console\\nwindow, the /T command line switch or from the Default Color registry\\nvalue.\\n\\n\\nIn other words, if you wanted a bright white background and black text:\\n@echo off\\ncolor f0\\n:MAIN\\ncls\\necho.\\n1-13. Congratulations, you have just created a basic computer game with batch script!\\n\\nTips\\nIf you want to save something as a batch file but don't want to finish it just yet, you can edit the file again by right-clicking and selecting \\\"Edit\\\".\\nBatch is a fun way to start writing programs. To move onto something just a tiny bit harder but much more powerful try the python programming language.\\nWhen saving, make sure you to change the drop down menu under the file name input box from \\\"text (txt) document\\\" to \\\"All files\\\". After doing that, ensure that your file name always ends with .bat.\\nWarnings\\nIt is often times said that it is illegal to send batch files over the internet. By no means is this true, but be aware of the fact that you may get in trouble for sending dangerous batch files over the internet(e.g.: batch files that crash the computer, delete vital system files, etc...). They are not called viruses, but they are still harmful and you can get in serious trouble for them.\\nNEVER put any MS DOS commands in the echo command, as they will be carried out. Remember that everything displayed by the command line is an echo!\\nNEVER put any MS DOS commands in the text files that are typed out to the console. Text files solve some problems, such as the slashes and stars, but commands in them will still be carried out by the system.\\nBe wary of the \\\"del\\\" command. Although it can be used to delete, for example, users for a longer game, it is unrestricted and can be used to delete anything, including vital files. NEVER use this command until you really know what you're doing with it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Want to write a simple computer game using Notepad on your PC? Even if you've never written a game before, this tutorial will help you write a basic batch script computer game using easy commands.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide on a game.\", \"描述\": \"Before deciding to make a shoot-em-up game or point-and-click game, know that even with MS DOS 8, batch script has serious limitations to its capabilities. You will not be able to create more of a game than a text-based game. It can be a quiz or a scenario game, but you will have only text. As to whether or not you want to have ASCII graphics is up to you, but the game will still be based entirely on text input.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Learn the script.\", \"描述\": \"The script is not that hard to learn, you may even learn it simply by looking at a program. To know any scripting language you may need to know some basic commands in your computer's command line. For this command line, the basic commands that you will need are: \\necho\\ncolor\\ntitle\\ngoto\\nif\\nset\\nlabeling (not a command, but how to label)\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Learn how to use the above commands.\", \"描述\": \"The echo command is used to print out text to the console. Below, the echo command prints out \\\"Hello, world!\\\": \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9e\\\\/610238-3b1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9e\\\\/610238-3b1.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\nThe color command is used to change the color of the text in the command line. This isn't very useful, and probably shouldn't be focused on until you have finished the game itself, but the results of the color change can be quite appealing. Colors in DOS command lines are numbered, there is a table of the colors at the end of this article. The following command will change the text color to black background with green text: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/07\\\\/610238-3b2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/07\\\\/610238-3b2.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe title command simply changes the name of the window on the title bar and task bar, and is by no means useful, however, it can make your program look professional. Using it like so will change the title of the window to \\\"Fun Program\\\": \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4e\\\\/610238-3b3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4e\\\\/610238-3b3.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe goto command is used to go to a certain part of the program. You will be using it to determine what will happen when certain answers are chosen from questions. To use the goto command to go to a label called \\\"WRONG\\\": \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/12\\\\/610238-3b4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/12\\\\/610238-3b4.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe if command is used to determine what will happen if a certain event occurs. After the if statement (if [something]), a command follows. At the if statement, if a certain event is true, the command in the statement will be carried out. You will be using this statement to determine which goto command is to be used. This if statement will be true if the input is equal to 12: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/eb\\\\/610238-3b5.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b5.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/eb\\\\/610238-3b5.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b5.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe set command is actually quite complicated, since it may be used in many ways. As for now, all you need it for is to get the computer to receive input. To do this: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/10\\\\/610238-3b6.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-3b6.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/10\\\\/610238-3b6.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-3b6.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nFinally, labeling. Labeling can name certain parts of the program so that you may use the goto command. You can name certain sections of the program anything, so long as the name isn't a command. To label a section \\\"main\\\", type the following:\\n:MAIN\\n\\nLabeled sections include the label itself and all code that follow it until another label is present or the file reaches the end! Make sure you place the label the section being labeled, and another label following it so that the computer understands what section is labeled! Example below:\\n@echo off\\n:LABEL1\\necho THIS IS A TEST OF TEXT\\nset/p input=THIS IS A TEST INPUT_\\nif %input%==1 goto LABEL1\\ngoto LABEL2\\n:LABEL2\\necho TEST\\n\\nThe first line of the above program may have been confusing to you. This line turns off the display of the code inside the file, so it doesn't look like it was all typed out on a console. As of now that is unimportant, right now you should be determining what the above program will do(ignore the first line). The program will display text saying \\\"THIS IS A TEST OF TEXT\\\", then it will prompt for input. If the input is \\\"1\\\"(meaning you typed in 1), the program will return to LABEL1 and the commands below it will repeat. If the condition in the if statement is not met, the computer will print text to the console \\\"TEST\\\". Copy the above program into two different windows running notepad. In one, save it as TEST1 in any folder and run it. Notice how the text is displayed. In the second window, erase the first line and save it as TEST2 and run it. Notice the difference?\\n\\nOnce you have a general understanding of how the above commands may be used, you may move on to the next step.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Start scripting your game.\", \"描述\": \"It is suggested that a beginner use notepad, but if you would like to use MS DOS EDIT, that's fine, too. It is also suggested to a beginner to begin with a basic quiz game, so this is what this article will show you how to do. Remember to start by turning off the echo. Then introduce your game with some text through the echo command, then use set to allow input with the goto command. This may sound confusing, so look above (Note: the command creates comments, i.e. notes for the developer that won't show in the final result):\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Work on the instructions page.\", \"描述\": \"At this point, you should save your file(save as something.bat), and put it in a folder that you created for the game. After saving it, run it and make sure it works. \\nFrom this point on you will be having multiple files per game (especially if you want to have ASCII graphics). You can get the batch script to print out the contents of any file on the screen with the type command. The below will print the contents of TEST.txt: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/56\\\\/610238-5b1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-5b1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/56\\\\/610238-5b1.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nIt's important to remember to include the file extension, or the command may not work properly.\\nCreate an instructions page in notepad. It should say something like: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/87\\\\/610238-5b2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-5b2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/87\\\\/610238-5b2.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSave this as INST.txt in the folder of the batch file, then make it so that your game will print the text to the console on the instructions page: \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a4\\\\/610238-5b3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-5b3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a4\\\\/610238-5b3.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nRun the program and make sure it works. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7d\\\\/610238-5b4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-610238-5b4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7d\\\\/610238-5b4.jpg\\\\/aid610238-v4-728px-610238-5b4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Work on the contents of the game itself.\", \"描述\": \"This is where most of your creativity/research, work, and time is spent working on the game, as well as where most of the game's scripting should be. There should be a place that you go when you get an answer wrong, and a way to advance to the next question when you get the answer right. The above will have basic questions about the exterior of a car. You may replace them with what you like. \\nRun the program and make sure it works.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Create a winning screen.\", \"描述\": \"Creating a winning screen is as simple as the instructions screen. Create a text document with praise for winning and save it as WIN.txt in the batch folder. Add the following lines to the end of your game for the winning screen:\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Your game should now look like the code above:\", \"描述\": \"Run the program and make sure it works.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Touch up your file.\", \"描述\": \"Start by going to each label and placing the cls command after it. This will clear the screen at each label so you don't have a screen full of unnecessary information.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Correct grammar where appropriate.\", \"描述\": \"If you want, make all of the answers on the list complete sentences. You should also avoid slashes and greater than/less than symbols, stars, percent symbols, and any other unusual symbols. These symbols will create a syntax error that causes the program to stop, lag, or crash.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Create graphics for the game if you would like.\", \"描述\": \"Generate ASCII art in separate text documents and use the type command to display them in the program:\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Correct any typing errors that you can find.\", \"描述\": \"Think of your own things to correct. Then add your color with the color command. It is suggested that you place it at the beginning of the program so that the whole program is of this color. Here is the explanation of how to use it directly from the command line: \\n\\n\\nSets the default console foreground and background colors.\\nCOLOR [attr]\\n attr Specifies color attribute of console output\\nColor attributes are specified by TWO hex digits -- the first\\ncorresponds to the background; the second the foreground. Each digit\\ncan be any of the following values:\\n 0 = Black 8 = Gray\\n 1 = Blue 9 = Light Blue\\n 2 = Green A = Light Green\\n 3 = Aqua B = Light Aqua\\n 4 = Red C = Light Red\\n 5 = Purple D = Light Purple\\n 6 = Yellow E = Light Yellow\\n 7 = White F = Bright White\\nIf no argument is given, this command restores the color to what it was\\nwhen CMD.EXE started. This value either comes from the current console\\nwindow, the /T command line switch or from the Default Color registry\\nvalue.\\n\\n\\nIn other words, if you wanted a bright white background and black text:\\n@echo off\\ncolor f0\\n:MAIN\\ncls\\necho.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Congratulations, you have just created a basic computer game with batch script!\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you want to save something as a batch file but don't want to finish it just yet, you can edit the file again by right-clicking and selecting \\\"Edit\\\".\\n\", \"Batch is a fun way to start writing programs. To move onto something just a tiny bit harder but much more powerful try the python programming language.\\n\", \"When saving, make sure you to change the drop down menu under the file name input box from \\\"text (txt) document\\\" to \\\"All files\\\". After doing that, ensure that your file name always ends with .bat.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"It is often times said that it is illegal to send batch files over the internet. By no means is this true, but be aware of the fact that you may get in trouble for sending dangerous batch files over the internet(e.g.: batch files that crash the computer, delete vital system files, etc...). They are not called viruses, but they are still harmful and you can get in serious trouble for them.\\n\", \"NEVER put any MS DOS commands in the echo command, as they will be carried out. Remember that everything displayed by the command line is an echo!\\n\", \"NEVER put any MS DOS commands in the text files that are typed out to the console. Text files solve some problems, such as the slashes and stars, but commands in them will still be carried out by the system.\\n\", \"Be wary of the \\\"del\\\" command. Although it can be used to delete, for example, users for a longer game, it is unrestricted and can be used to delete anything, including vital files. NEVER use this command until you really know what you're doing with it.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,535 |
How to Build a Simple Dog House
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1. Planning the Dog House
1-1. Determine how long and how wide you want the dog house to be.
While some people will construct a dog house that just fits their dog, others will want to build a supersized jumbo dog house. Think about how big you want your dog house.
Measure your dog to see the minimum size your dog house needs to be. Always make it larger than your dog.
Add at least half a foot (15 cm) above your dog’s height.
Plan to make your entrance half a foot (15 cm) wider than your dog.
For simplicity, try to round the measurements of your house to the nearest half foot. This will help not only in sketching, but also in measuring and buying materials.
1-2. Sketch
Before you can start constructing the dog house, you need to spend a little time sketching it so you’ll have a plan to work with. Sketching your doghouse will enable you to start the construction process with confidence that what you're building will turn out as a well-crafted product.
When sketching your dog house, use one inch to represent a foot. Use half an inch (1.25 cm) to represent half of a foot (15 cm). Since you rounded to the nearest half foot in an earlier step, this should be relatively easy.
Draw the base (perimeter) of your dog house with all four sides having a measured value.
Draw each face of the dog house with all four sides having a measured value. Include a measured value for the entrance.
Sketch the roof outline for each face, and from the top looking down. Include a measured value for all sides.
Make sure each piece of your frame is labeled and has a measured value.
Make sure each piece of plywood siding that will go over the frame has a measured value.
1-3. Pick a good spot in your yard.
You also need to pick a spot in your yard to place the doghouse once it’s built. Picking a safe and convenient spot is extremely important as your dog will likely be spending a good bit of time there. When picking a spot, consider:
Proximity to the house. You might want it to be close in case you need to feed or check on your dog.
The contours of the ground. Make sure to pick a spot that is high and flat. You don’t want water pooling around the dog house.
An area with shade. If you’re dog will be out during the summer, you probably need to make sure the dog house is in a shaded area. Otherwise, the sun will beat down on its roof all day and heat up your poor pup.
1-4. Prepare the ground for your dog house.
After you’ve chosen a place to put your dog house, you need to prepare the ground. You’ll need to even any uneven areas and remove any grass or organic material. This is important, as the floor of your dog house is going to be the ground on which it sits.
Use a shovel to dig up any grass or plants from the spot.
Get some soil from nearby or from the store to fill in any holes that might be left.
Use the backside of a rack to flatten and even out the soil.
2. Gathering Your Materials
2-1. Get all of the appropriate tools.
There are a wide variety of tools you’re going to need to build your simple dog house. Make sure you get all of them before you start any aspect of your construction. If you don’t, you’ll have to pause construction to run over the neighbor’s house or to the hardware store. You’ll need:
A saw. A table saw or a hand saw will work just fine.
A hammer.
An electric drill.
A paintbrush.
Small roofing tacks.
1.5-inch (4 cm) screws, 2-inch (5 cm) screws, and 1-inch (2.5 cm) nails.
2-2. Buy wood.
To build your dog house, you’ll have to buy a decent amount of wood. The amount of wood depends on the size of the house and on your sketch. Make sure you buy enough wood.
Consider buying at least 10% more wood than you think you’ll need. This will provide you with extra material if you make any mistakes or make any unplanned additions.
Buy 2x4s for the frame and support.
Buy plywood (your choice of gauge) for the siding of the dog house.
Use waterproof wood for the house if you plan to store the house outdoors.
Have your wood pre-cut at the store if this works for you.
2-3. Decide on and buy roofing material.
In addition to plywood and 2x4s, you’ll also need to decide on roofing material. Roofing material is important because it will protect your dog house from rain and snow and help prolong the life of your creation.
Consider 3-tab roofing tiles.
If you have old roofing supplies from previous projects, feel free to use them.
If you want to put tar paper, felt, or other roofing paper underneath the roofing tiles, you can.
2-4. Pick a paint color.
You also need to buy some paint. Painting your dog house will both help protect it from the elements and it will add a measure of style to your new creation.
Consider a color that matches your house.
For almost all projects, one gallon of exterior paint will work fine.
Avoid interior paint. Only use exterior paint as it provides a measure of weatherproofing.
Feel free to use extra paint if you have some laying around from another project.
3. Building the Dog House
3-1. Cut your wood
The first step you need to take when building the dog house is to cut all of the wood you’ll need to use in the construction process. Pre-cutting your wood will make sure you have all of your materials ready to go once you’ve started the construction process.
Make sure to cut with precision and remember that you used one inch to represent one foot on your sketch.
Cut 2x4s to use for your base. You should have four base pieces (two long and two short).
Cut 2x4s to use for your framing. Your framing will include four corner posts. It will also include four pieces to use as the top of your frame (these will match the dimensions of your base pieces). If your dog house is longer than three feet, consider adding extra support frames.
Cut plywood to use for your siding.
3-2. Attach the base.
Take the four base pieces and the bottom plywood piece and attach them to each other. The base will create the foundation of the house, so make sure to do it correctly.
Turn the 2x4s up so the 2 inch sides are on the ground.
Make sure you’re working on a level surface.
Take one short piece and one long piece and attach them (2 inch or 5 cm side on the ground) by screwing a two inch nail into the wood with an electric drill.
Take the now L shaped foundation and attach the other short 2x4 to the opposite side of the original short 2x4.
Take your final long piece and complete the rectangle by screwing another 1.5 inch (4cm) screw into the corner of the rectangle.
Use a square to make sure the side pieces are attached at a right angle.
3-3. Complete the rest of the frame.
After you’ve got the base together, you need to consult your sketch and complete the frame of the dog house. Since the frame is the most important, you need to do this slow and carefully.
Take the corner posts and use an electric drill to screw (and attach) them to the base. Make sure the long face of the 2x4s are parallel to the long side of the dog house.
If you have extra support 2x4s, place them equal distance between the corner posts on the long side of the dog house.
Top off the frame with the four pieces that were measured the same as the base. Use your electric drill to screw them into the corner posts. In addition, make sure to use two inch screws to screw them into each other.
Use a square to make sure the side pieces are attached at a right angle.
3-4. Build the roof.
After you’ve framed the house, you need to frame the roof. Your roof frame and shape will follow whatever you chose in your sketch, so make sure to follow it.
If you chose a gable roof (a roof that has two sides that slope and a triangle-shaped "gable" wall at each end), make sure to frame your “A” shape well. Use an electric drill to screw 1.5 inch (4 cm) screws into your roof frame. Use more 1.5 inch (4 cm) screws to attach the roof frame into the main frame of the dog house.
If you choose a flat roof when you made your sketch, you can move on to the next step.
3-5. Attach the plywood to the main frame and roof frame of the dog house.
After you’ve framed the roof, it’s time to move on to attaching your plywood siding to the dog house. Your plywood siding will create the walls of your dog house and serve as a stabilizing force.
Take your pre-measured plywood and attach it to the long sides of the dog house. Use 1-inch (2.5 cm) nails and hammer them into the frame. Use 3 nails for each corner post, spacing them evenly. Use another 2 sets of 3 nails to secure the plywood to the base and to the top 2x4 of the frame. If you used an extra piece of 2x4 for support, use 3 more nails to secure the plywood to it.
Take your pre-measured plywood and attach it to the short sides of the dog house. You should have cut special wood (based on your sketch) for the dog house door. Use 3 1-inch nails to secure each side of the plywood into each corner post.
If you chose a flat roof, simply attach your pre-measured plywood to the main frame of the dog house.
4. Putting on the Finishing Touches
4-1. Nail on your roofing material.
After you’ve secured the plywood to the frame, it’s time to attach your roofing material. Attaching your roofing material is important as you’ll want to protect the dog house from rain and snow.
If you’ve chosen to put down tar paper or other material underneath shingles, put it down.
Use ½ inch (1.25 cm) tacks or nails to secure the paper.
Lay your 3-tab or other roofing material on the roof of the dog house.
Use ½ inch (1.25 cm) tacks or nails to secure the 3-tab.
4-2. Paint the dog house.
Coat it with some paint of your choice. Coating it with paint will help preserve it. It will also add to the aesthetics of your yard.
Take your paint brush and apply a thin and quick coat of paint to the dog house.
After the first coat has dried, apply another coat of paint.
If you want, you can flip the dog house upside down and paint inside. This might help the wood stand up to the elements longer.
4-3. Inspect the dog house.
After you’ve finished the roof and painted the dog house, it will be time to inspect the dog house. Inspecting the dog house is important, as you want to make sure it is safe for your dog. Put as much time as is needed to inspect the dog house thoroughly.
Look for any nails or screws that are protruding from wood. Pay special attention to nails that might be coming through the roof or frame of the roof.
Make sure each piece of the dog house is attached to each other and to the frame.
Do a soft shake test. Rattle the dog house a little to see how stable it is. This will give you an idea of how it will stand up to your dog moving around in it.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:03",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning the Dog House\\n1-1. Determine how long and how wide you want the dog house to be.\\nWhile some people will construct a dog house that just fits their dog, others will want to build a supersized jumbo dog house. Think about how big you want your dog house.\\n\\nMeasure your dog to see the minimum size your dog house needs to be. Always make it larger than your dog.\\nAdd at least half a foot (15 cm) above your dog’s height.\\nPlan to make your entrance half a foot (15 cm) wider than your dog.\\nFor simplicity, try to round the measurements of your house to the nearest half foot. This will help not only in sketching, but also in measuring and buying materials.\\n1-2. Sketch\\nBefore you can start constructing the dog house, you need to spend a little time sketching it so you’ll have a plan to work with. Sketching your doghouse will enable you to start the construction process with confidence that what you're building will turn out as a well-crafted product.\\nWhen sketching your dog house, use one inch to represent a foot. Use half an inch (1.25 cm) to represent half of a foot (15 cm). Since you rounded to the nearest half foot in an earlier step, this should be relatively easy.\\nDraw the base (perimeter) of your dog house with all four sides having a measured value.\\nDraw each face of the dog house with all four sides having a measured value. Include a measured value for the entrance.\\nSketch the roof outline for each face, and from the top looking down. Include a measured value for all sides.\\nMake sure each piece of your frame is labeled and has a measured value.\\nMake sure each piece of plywood siding that will go over the frame has a measured value.\\n1-3. Pick a good spot in your yard.\\nYou also need to pick a spot in your yard to place the doghouse once it’s built. Picking a safe and convenient spot is extremely important as your dog will likely be spending a good bit of time there. When picking a spot, consider:\\nProximity to the house. You might want it to be close in case you need to feed or check on your dog.\\nThe contours of the ground. Make sure to pick a spot that is high and flat. You don’t want water pooling around the dog house.\\nAn area with shade. If you’re dog will be out during the summer, you probably need to make sure the dog house is in a shaded area. Otherwise, the sun will beat down on its roof all day and heat up your poor pup.\\n1-4. Prepare the ground for your dog house.\\nAfter you’ve chosen a place to put your dog house, you need to prepare the ground. You’ll need to even any uneven areas and remove any grass or organic material. This is important, as the floor of your dog house is going to be the ground on which it sits.\\nUse a shovel to dig up any grass or plants from the spot.\\nGet some soil from nearby or from the store to fill in any holes that might be left.\\nUse the backside of a rack to flatten and even out the soil.\\n2. Gathering Your Materials\\n2-1. Get all of the appropriate tools.\\nThere are a wide variety of tools you’re going to need to build your simple dog house. Make sure you get all of them before you start any aspect of your construction. If you don’t, you’ll have to pause construction to run over the neighbor’s house or to the hardware store. You’ll need:\\nA saw. A table saw or a hand saw will work just fine.\\nA hammer.\\nAn electric drill.\\nA paintbrush.\\nSmall roofing tacks.\\n1.5-inch (4 cm) screws, 2-inch (5 cm) screws, and 1-inch (2.5 cm) nails.\\n2-2. Buy wood.\\nTo build your dog house, you’ll have to buy a decent amount of wood. The amount of wood depends on the size of the house and on your sketch. Make sure you buy enough wood.\\nConsider buying at least 10% more wood than you think you’ll need. This will provide you with extra material if you make any mistakes or make any unplanned additions.\\nBuy 2x4s for the frame and support.\\nBuy plywood (your choice of gauge) for the siding of the dog house.\\nUse waterproof wood for the house if you plan to store the house outdoors.\\nHave your wood pre-cut at the store if this works for you.\\n2-3. Decide on and buy roofing material.\\nIn addition to plywood and 2x4s, you’ll also need to decide on roofing material. Roofing material is important because it will protect your dog house from rain and snow and help prolong the life of your creation.\\nConsider 3-tab roofing tiles.\\nIf you have old roofing supplies from previous projects, feel free to use them.\\nIf you want to put tar paper, felt, or other roofing paper underneath the roofing tiles, you can.\\n2-4. Pick a paint color.\\nYou also need to buy some paint. Painting your dog house will both help protect it from the elements and it will add a measure of style to your new creation.\\nConsider a color that matches your house.\\nFor almost all projects, one gallon of exterior paint will work fine.\\nAvoid interior paint. Only use exterior paint as it provides a measure of weatherproofing.\\nFeel free to use extra paint if you have some laying around from another project.\\n3. Building the Dog House\\n3-1. Cut your wood\\nThe first step you need to take when building the dog house is to cut all of the wood you’ll need to use in the construction process. Pre-cutting your wood will make sure you have all of your materials ready to go once you’ve started the construction process.\\nMake sure to cut with precision and remember that you used one inch to represent one foot on your sketch.\\nCut 2x4s to use for your base. You should have four base pieces (two long and two short).\\nCut 2x4s to use for your framing. Your framing will include four corner posts. It will also include four pieces to use as the top of your frame (these will match the dimensions of your base pieces). If your dog house is longer than three feet, consider adding extra support frames.\\nCut plywood to use for your siding.\\n3-2. Attach the base.\\nTake the four base pieces and the bottom plywood piece and attach them to each other. The base will create the foundation of the house, so make sure to do it correctly.\\nTurn the 2x4s up so the 2 inch sides are on the ground.\\nMake sure you’re working on a level surface.\\nTake one short piece and one long piece and attach them (2 inch or 5 cm side on the ground) by screwing a two inch nail into the wood with an electric drill.\\nTake the now L shaped foundation and attach the other short 2x4 to the opposite side of the original short 2x4.\\nTake your final long piece and complete the rectangle by screwing another 1.5 inch (4cm) screw into the corner of the rectangle.\\nUse a square to make sure the side pieces are attached at a right angle.\\n3-3. Complete the rest of the frame.\\nAfter you’ve got the base together, you need to consult your sketch and complete the frame of the dog house. Since the frame is the most important, you need to do this slow and carefully.\\nTake the corner posts and use an electric drill to screw (and attach) them to the base. Make sure the long face of the 2x4s are parallel to the long side of the dog house.\\nIf you have extra support 2x4s, place them equal distance between the corner posts on the long side of the dog house.\\nTop off the frame with the four pieces that were measured the same as the base. Use your electric drill to screw them into the corner posts. In addition, make sure to use two inch screws to screw them into each other.\\nUse a square to make sure the side pieces are attached at a right angle.\\n3-4. Build the roof.\\nAfter you’ve framed the house, you need to frame the roof. Your roof frame and shape will follow whatever you chose in your sketch, so make sure to follow it.\\nIf you chose a gable roof (a roof that has two sides that slope and a triangle-shaped \\\"gable\\\" wall at each end), make sure to frame your “A” shape well. Use an electric drill to screw 1.5 inch (4 cm) screws into your roof frame. Use more 1.5 inch (4 cm) screws to attach the roof frame into the main frame of the dog house.\\nIf you choose a flat roof when you made your sketch, you can move on to the next step.\\n3-5. Attach the plywood to the main frame and roof frame of the dog house.\\nAfter you’ve framed the roof, it’s time to move on to attaching your plywood siding to the dog house. Your plywood siding will create the walls of your dog house and serve as a stabilizing force.\\nTake your pre-measured plywood and attach it to the long sides of the dog house. Use 1-inch (2.5 cm) nails and hammer them into the frame. Use 3 nails for each corner post, spacing them evenly. Use another 2 sets of 3 nails to secure the plywood to the base and to the top 2x4 of the frame. If you used an extra piece of 2x4 for support, use 3 more nails to secure the plywood to it.\\nTake your pre-measured plywood and attach it to the short sides of the dog house. You should have cut special wood (based on your sketch) for the dog house door. Use 3 1-inch nails to secure each side of the plywood into each corner post.\\nIf you chose a flat roof, simply attach your pre-measured plywood to the main frame of the dog house.\\n4. Putting on the Finishing Touches\\n4-1. Nail on your roofing material.\\nAfter you’ve secured the plywood to the frame, it’s time to attach your roofing material. Attaching your roofing material is important as you’ll want to protect the dog house from rain and snow.\\nIf you’ve chosen to put down tar paper or other material underneath shingles, put it down.\\nUse ½ inch (1.25 cm) tacks or nails to secure the paper.\\nLay your 3-tab or other roofing material on the roof of the dog house.\\nUse ½ inch (1.25 cm) tacks or nails to secure the 3-tab.\\n4-2. Paint the dog house.\\nCoat it with some paint of your choice. Coating it with paint will help preserve it. It will also add to the aesthetics of your yard.\\nTake your paint brush and apply a thin and quick coat of paint to the dog house.\\nAfter the first coat has dried, apply another coat of paint.\\nIf you want, you can flip the dog house upside down and paint inside. This might help the wood stand up to the elements longer.\\n4-3. Inspect the dog house.\\nAfter you’ve finished the roof and painted the dog house, it will be time to inspect the dog house. Inspecting the dog house is important, as you want to make sure it is safe for your dog. Put as much time as is needed to inspect the dog house thoroughly.\\nLook for any nails or screws that are protruding from wood. Pay special attention to nails that might be coming through the roof or frame of the roof.\\nMake sure each piece of the dog house is attached to each other and to the frame.\\nDo a soft shake test. Rattle the dog house a little to see how stable it is. This will give you an idea of how it will stand up to your dog moving around in it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you have an outdoor or an indoor dog, dog houses are a worthwhile investment. A dog house can serve as a permanent shelter for outdoor dogs, or as a place for indoor dogs to hangout while they're outside. However, building a dog house is a somewhat difficult task. Not only do you have to design the dog house, but you’ve got to cut the wood and put the dog house together. Thankfully, with a little bit of time and some knowledge, you’ll be able to build a dog house in no time.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the Dog House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine how long and how wide you want the dog house to be.\", \"描述\": \"While some people will construct a dog house that just fits their dog, others will want to build a supersized jumbo dog house. Think about how big you want your dog house.\\n\\nMeasure your dog to see the minimum size your dog house needs to be. Always make it larger than your dog.\\nAdd at least half a foot (15 cm) above your dog’s height.\\nPlan to make your entrance half a foot (15 cm) wider than your dog.\\nFor simplicity, try to round the measurements of your house to the nearest half foot. This will help not only in sketching, but also in measuring and buying materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sketch\", \"描述\": \"Before you can start constructing the dog house, you need to spend a little time sketching it so you’ll have a plan to work with. Sketching your doghouse will enable you to start the construction process with confidence that what you're building will turn out as a well-crafted product.\\nWhen sketching your dog house, use one inch to represent a foot. Use half an inch (1.25 cm) to represent half of a foot (15 cm). Since you rounded to the nearest half foot in an earlier step, this should be relatively easy.\\nDraw the base (perimeter) of your dog house with all four sides having a measured value.\\nDraw each face of the dog house with all four sides having a measured value. Include a measured value for the entrance.\\nSketch the roof outline for each face, and from the top looking down. Include a measured value for all sides.\\nMake sure each piece of your frame is labeled and has a measured value.\\nMake sure each piece of plywood siding that will go over the frame has a measured value.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pick a good spot in your yard.\", \"描述\": \"You also need to pick a spot in your yard to place the doghouse once it’s built. Picking a safe and convenient spot is extremely important as your dog will likely be spending a good bit of time there. When picking a spot, consider:\\nProximity to the house. You might want it to be close in case you need to feed or check on your dog.\\nThe contours of the ground. Make sure to pick a spot that is high and flat. You don’t want water pooling around the dog house.\\nAn area with shade. If you’re dog will be out during the summer, you probably need to make sure the dog house is in a shaded area. Otherwise, the sun will beat down on its roof all day and heat up your poor pup.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Prepare the ground for your dog house.\", \"描述\": \"After you’ve chosen a place to put your dog house, you need to prepare the ground. You’ll need to even any uneven areas and remove any grass or organic material. This is important, as the floor of your dog house is going to be the ground on which it sits.\\nUse a shovel to dig up any grass or plants from the spot.\\nGet some soil from nearby or from the store to fill in any holes that might be left.\\nUse the backside of a rack to flatten and even out the soil.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gathering Your Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get all of the appropriate tools.\", \"描述\": \"There are a wide variety of tools you’re going to need to build your simple dog house. Make sure you get all of them before you start any aspect of your construction. If you don’t, you’ll have to pause construction to run over the neighbor’s house or to the hardware store. You’ll need:\\nA saw. A table saw or a hand saw will work just fine.\\nA hammer.\\nAn electric drill.\\nA paintbrush.\\nSmall roofing tacks.\\n1.5-inch (4 cm) screws, 2-inch (5 cm) screws, and 1-inch (2.5 cm) nails.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy wood.\", \"描述\": \"To build your dog house, you’ll have to buy a decent amount of wood. The amount of wood depends on the size of the house and on your sketch. Make sure you buy enough wood.\\nConsider buying at least 10% more wood than you think you’ll need. This will provide you with extra material if you make any mistakes or make any unplanned additions.\\nBuy 2x4s for the frame and support.\\nBuy plywood (your choice of gauge) for the siding of the dog house.\\nUse waterproof wood for the house if you plan to store the house outdoors.\\nHave your wood pre-cut at the store if this works for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide on and buy roofing material.\", \"描述\": \"In addition to plywood and 2x4s, you’ll also need to decide on roofing material. Roofing material is important because it will protect your dog house from rain and snow and help prolong the life of your creation.\\nConsider 3-tab roofing tiles.\\nIf you have old roofing supplies from previous projects, feel free to use them.\\nIf you want to put tar paper, felt, or other roofing paper underneath the roofing tiles, you can.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pick a paint color.\", \"描述\": \"You also need to buy some paint. Painting your dog house will both help protect it from the elements and it will add a measure of style to your new creation.\\nConsider a color that matches your house.\\nFor almost all projects, one gallon of exterior paint will work fine.\\nAvoid interior paint. Only use exterior paint as it provides a measure of weatherproofing.\\nFeel free to use extra paint if you have some laying around from another project.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Dog House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut your wood\", \"描述\": \"The first step you need to take when building the dog house is to cut all of the wood you’ll need to use in the construction process. Pre-cutting your wood will make sure you have all of your materials ready to go once you’ve started the construction process.\\nMake sure to cut with precision and remember that you used one inch to represent one foot on your sketch.\\nCut 2x4s to use for your base. You should have four base pieces (two long and two short).\\nCut 2x4s to use for your framing. Your framing will include four corner posts. It will also include four pieces to use as the top of your frame (these will match the dimensions of your base pieces). If your dog house is longer than three feet, consider adding extra support frames.\\nCut plywood to use for your siding.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the base.\", \"描述\": \"Take the four base pieces and the bottom plywood piece and attach them to each other. The base will create the foundation of the house, so make sure to do it correctly.\\nTurn the 2x4s up so the 2 inch sides are on the ground.\\nMake sure you’re working on a level surface.\\nTake one short piece and one long piece and attach them (2 inch or 5 cm side on the ground) by screwing a two inch nail into the wood with an electric drill.\\nTake the now L shaped foundation and attach the other short 2x4 to the opposite side of the original short 2x4.\\nTake your final long piece and complete the rectangle by screwing another 1.5 inch (4cm) screw into the corner of the rectangle.\\nUse a square to make sure the side pieces are attached at a right angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Complete the rest of the frame.\", \"描述\": \"After you’ve got the base together, you need to consult your sketch and complete the frame of the dog house. Since the frame is the most important, you need to do this slow and carefully.\\nTake the corner posts and use an electric drill to screw (and attach) them to the base. Make sure the long face of the 2x4s are parallel to the long side of the dog house.\\nIf you have extra support 2x4s, place them equal distance between the corner posts on the long side of the dog house.\\nTop off the frame with the four pieces that were measured the same as the base. Use your electric drill to screw them into the corner posts. In addition, make sure to use two inch screws to screw them into each other.\\nUse a square to make sure the side pieces are attached at a right angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build the roof.\", \"描述\": \"After you’ve framed the house, you need to frame the roof. Your roof frame and shape will follow whatever you chose in your sketch, so make sure to follow it.\\nIf you chose a gable roof (a roof that has two sides that slope and a triangle-shaped \\\"gable\\\" wall at each end), make sure to frame your “A” shape well. Use an electric drill to screw 1.5 inch (4 cm) screws into your roof frame. Use more 1.5 inch (4 cm) screws to attach the roof frame into the main frame of the dog house.\\nIf you choose a flat roof when you made your sketch, you can move on to the next step.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the plywood to the main frame and roof frame of the dog house.\", \"描述\": \"After you’ve framed the roof, it’s time to move on to attaching your plywood siding to the dog house. Your plywood siding will create the walls of your dog house and serve as a stabilizing force.\\nTake your pre-measured plywood and attach it to the long sides of the dog house. Use 1-inch (2.5 cm) nails and hammer them into the frame. Use 3 nails for each corner post, spacing them evenly. Use another 2 sets of 3 nails to secure the plywood to the base and to the top 2x4 of the frame. If you used an extra piece of 2x4 for support, use 3 more nails to secure the plywood to it.\\nTake your pre-measured plywood and attach it to the short sides of the dog house. You should have cut special wood (based on your sketch) for the dog house door. Use 3 1-inch nails to secure each side of the plywood into each corner post.\\nIf you chose a flat roof, simply attach your pre-measured plywood to the main frame of the dog house.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Putting on the Finishing Touches\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Nail on your roofing material.\", \"描述\": \"After you’ve secured the plywood to the frame, it’s time to attach your roofing material. Attaching your roofing material is important as you’ll want to protect the dog house from rain and snow.\\nIf you’ve chosen to put down tar paper or other material underneath shingles, put it down.\\nUse ½ inch (1.25 cm) tacks or nails to secure the paper.\\nLay your 3-tab or other roofing material on the roof of the dog house.\\nUse ½ inch (1.25 cm) tacks or nails to secure the 3-tab.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint the dog house.\", \"描述\": \"Coat it with some paint of your choice. Coating it with paint will help preserve it. It will also add to the aesthetics of your yard.\\nTake your paint brush and apply a thin and quick coat of paint to the dog house.\\nAfter the first coat has dried, apply another coat of paint.\\nIf you want, you can flip the dog house upside down and paint inside. This might help the wood stand up to the elements longer.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Inspect the dog house.\", \"描述\": \"After you’ve finished the roof and painted the dog house, it will be time to inspect the dog house. Inspecting the dog house is important, as you want to make sure it is safe for your dog. Put as much time as is needed to inspect the dog house thoroughly.\\nLook for any nails or screws that are protruding from wood. Pay special attention to nails that might be coming through the roof or frame of the roof.\\nMake sure each piece of the dog house is attached to each other and to the frame.\\nDo a soft shake test. Rattle the dog house a little to see how stable it is. This will give you an idea of how it will stand up to your dog moving around in it.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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Simple Electric Motor Project: Materials & Instructions
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1. Winding the Coil
1-1. Tape together four pencils.
Tape the pencils in a two by two cluster. This will give you something solid to wrap your coil around. You can substitute the pencils for a cylinder that’s roughly half an inch in diameter.
1-2. Wrap wire around the pencils.
Once you have the pencils taped or find a suitable cylinder, begin wrapping your wire around it tightly. Start in the middle of the wire and wrap the coil fifteen times toward one end and fifteen times toward the other. Once you have finished wrapping the coil, remove the pencils from the middle. This will leave you with two loose leads at either end of the coil.
1-3. Loop the loose ends around the coil.
Wrap the loose ends around either side of the coil three or four times. This will help keep the coil wound tightly. Point the remaining loose ends straight out away from the coil.
2. Connecting the Battery
2-1. Secure the battery.
Use tape or clay to hold the battery in place on a flat surface like a tabletop or desk. This will allow you to connect it to the coil without having to hold it with your hands. Make sure the battery is laying on its side so that you can easily reach both terminals.
2-2. Strip the ends of the coil wire.
Use wire strippers to remove the insulation on either end of the wire, but only one half of the insulation, such that the bare wire will be connected to the circuit only half the time. These leads will connect to the battery and allow current to flow through the coil. If you sand the wire all the way around, the wire will heat up or move back and forth, and the motor will not work.
2-3. Slide each end through the eye of a needle.
A needle makes the perfect holder for the wire leads. Insert each end into the eye of a separate needle. You can also bend two paper clips (one for each side) to make a holder.
2-4. Tape the needles to the battery terminals.
Once you have the wire in both needles, it’s time to hook your wire up to the battery. Tape one needle to the positive side of the battery (marked with a “+”). Tape the other needle to the negative side of the battery (marked with a “-”).
Be sure the needles are pointing with the sharp end down toward the battery and the eye at the top holding the coil.
Do not let either needle touch both sides of the battery.
Once both leads are connected, there will be an electric current running through the needles and the wire. It is best to use rubber or insulated gloves for this step.
3. Introducing the Magnet
3-1. Bring a magnet close to the coil.
Once a current is flowing through the coil, it can interact with a magnet. Either hold the magnet close to the coil, or tape it to the battery right underneath the coil. The closer the magnet is to the coil the stronger it will interact.
3-2. Spin the coil.
See what happens when you spin the coil. Depending on the direction the current is flowing and the side of the magnet that is interacting with the coil, the coil may continue to spin or may not. If the coil does not keep spinning, try spinning the other direction.
3-3. Experiment with different methods.
Different variations will give you different results. The coil may spin faster, slower, or not at all if you change something. Try moving the magnet closer to or further from the coil, pick a stronger or weaker magnet, or use the other side of the magnet. These variations are a fun way to understand the forces in an electric motor.
Tips
This setup works better on flat surfaces
For high speed stability, you can make an oval shaped motor.
If this is your first electrical project you might need help cutting the wire correctly.
Warnings
If you use a thin wire and a strong current, your wires can get extremely hot!
If a child is doing the project, make sure to provide the necessary adult supervision to avoid any accidents.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:04",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Winding the Coil\\n1-1. Tape together four pencils.\\nTape the pencils in a two by two cluster. This will give you something solid to wrap your coil around. You can substitute the pencils for a cylinder that’s roughly half an inch in diameter.\\n1-2. Wrap wire around the pencils.\\nOnce you have the pencils taped or find a suitable cylinder, begin wrapping your wire around it tightly. Start in the middle of the wire and wrap the coil fifteen times toward one end and fifteen times toward the other. Once you have finished wrapping the coil, remove the pencils from the middle. This will leave you with two loose leads at either end of the coil.\\n1-3. Loop the loose ends around the coil.\\nWrap the loose ends around either side of the coil three or four times. This will help keep the coil wound tightly. Point the remaining loose ends straight out away from the coil.\\n2. Connecting the Battery\\n2-1. Secure the battery.\\nUse tape or clay to hold the battery in place on a flat surface like a tabletop or desk. This will allow you to connect it to the coil without having to hold it with your hands. Make sure the battery is laying on its side so that you can easily reach both terminals.\\n2-2. Strip the ends of the coil wire.\\nUse wire strippers to remove the insulation on either end of the wire, but only one half of the insulation, such that the bare wire will be connected to the circuit only half the time. These leads will connect to the battery and allow current to flow through the coil. If you sand the wire all the way around, the wire will heat up or move back and forth, and the motor will not work.\\n2-3. Slide each end through the eye of a needle.\\nA needle makes the perfect holder for the wire leads. Insert each end into the eye of a separate needle. You can also bend two paper clips (one for each side) to make a holder.\\n2-4. Tape the needles to the battery terminals.\\nOnce you have the wire in both needles, it’s time to hook your wire up to the battery. Tape one needle to the positive side of the battery (marked with a “+”). Tape the other needle to the negative side of the battery (marked with a “-”). \\nBe sure the needles are pointing with the sharp end down toward the battery and the eye at the top holding the coil.\\nDo not let either needle touch both sides of the battery.\\nOnce both leads are connected, there will be an electric current running through the needles and the wire. It is best to use rubber or insulated gloves for this step.\\n3. Introducing the Magnet\\n3-1. Bring a magnet close to the coil.\\nOnce a current is flowing through the coil, it can interact with a magnet. Either hold the magnet close to the coil, or tape it to the battery right underneath the coil. The closer the magnet is to the coil the stronger it will interact.\\n3-2. Spin the coil.\\nSee what happens when you spin the coil. Depending on the direction the current is flowing and the side of the magnet that is interacting with the coil, the coil may continue to spin or may not. If the coil does not keep spinning, try spinning the other direction.\\n3-3. Experiment with different methods.\\nDifferent variations will give you different results. The coil may spin faster, slower, or not at all if you change something. Try moving the magnet closer to or further from the coil, pick a stronger or weaker magnet, or use the other side of the magnet. These variations are a fun way to understand the forces in an electric motor.\\nTips\\nThis setup works better on flat surfaces\\nFor high speed stability, you can make an oval shaped motor.\\nIf this is your first electrical project you might need help cutting the wire correctly.\\nWarnings\\nIf you use a thin wire and a strong current, your wires can get extremely hot!\\nIf a child is doing the project, make sure to provide the necessary adult supervision to avoid any accidents.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Electric motors power all kinds of things you probably use every day, like your fridge, washing machine, and even electric toothbrush. Building your own simple electric motor is actually really easy. To help you out, we've put together a step-by-step guide to making a basic electric motor that includes everything you'll need to get started.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Winding the Coil\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Tape together four pencils.\", \"描述\": \"Tape the pencils in a two by two cluster. This will give you something solid to wrap your coil around. You can substitute the pencils for a cylinder that’s roughly half an inch in diameter.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wrap wire around the pencils.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the pencils taped or find a suitable cylinder, begin wrapping your wire around it tightly. Start in the middle of the wire and wrap the coil fifteen times toward one end and fifteen times toward the other. Once you have finished wrapping the coil, remove the pencils from the middle. This will leave you with two loose leads at either end of the coil.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Loop the loose ends around the coil.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap the loose ends around either side of the coil three or four times. This will help keep the coil wound tightly. Point the remaining loose ends straight out away from the coil.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connecting the Battery\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Secure the battery.\", \"描述\": \"Use tape or clay to hold the battery in place on a flat surface like a tabletop or desk. This will allow you to connect it to the coil without having to hold it with your hands. Make sure the battery is laying on its side so that you can easily reach both terminals.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Strip the ends of the coil wire.\", \"描述\": \"Use wire strippers to remove the insulation on either end of the wire, but only one half of the insulation, such that the bare wire will be connected to the circuit only half the time. These leads will connect to the battery and allow current to flow through the coil. If you sand the wire all the way around, the wire will heat up or move back and forth, and the motor will not work.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Slide each end through the eye of a needle.\", \"描述\": \"A needle makes the perfect holder for the wire leads. Insert each end into the eye of a separate needle. You can also bend two paper clips (one for each side) to make a holder.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tape the needles to the battery terminals.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the wire in both needles, it’s time to hook your wire up to the battery. Tape one needle to the positive side of the battery (marked with a “+”). Tape the other needle to the negative side of the battery (marked with a “-”). \\nBe sure the needles are pointing with the sharp end down toward the battery and the eye at the top holding the coil.\\nDo not let either needle touch both sides of the battery.\\nOnce both leads are connected, there will be an electric current running through the needles and the wire. It is best to use rubber or insulated gloves for this step.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Introducing the Magnet\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bring a magnet close to the coil.\", \"描述\": \"Once a current is flowing through the coil, it can interact with a magnet. Either hold the magnet close to the coil, or tape it to the battery right underneath the coil. The closer the magnet is to the coil the stronger it will interact.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Spin the coil.\", \"描述\": \"See what happens when you spin the coil. Depending on the direction the current is flowing and the side of the magnet that is interacting with the coil, the coil may continue to spin or may not. If the coil does not keep spinning, try spinning the other direction.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Experiment with different methods.\", \"描述\": \"Different variations will give you different results. The coil may spin faster, slower, or not at all if you change something. Try moving the magnet closer to or further from the coil, pick a stronger or weaker magnet, or use the other side of the magnet. These variations are a fun way to understand the forces in an electric motor.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"This setup works better on flat surfaces\\n\", \"For high speed stability, you can make an oval shaped motor.\\n\", \"If this is your first electrical project you might need help cutting the wire correctly.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you use a thin wire and a strong current, your wires can get extremely hot!\\n\", \"If a child is doing the project, make sure to provide the necessary adult supervision to avoid any accidents.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,537 |
How to Build a Simple One Horse Barn
|
1. Steps
1-1. Understand that building a pole barn is straight forward and pretty much as simple as it gets.
It is built with poles that are 4 x 4-inches (10.16 x 10.16 cm). These protected posts, or utility poles, are set in a grid 8 feet (2.44 meters) apart.
1-2. Build an 8 x 16-foot (2.44 X 4.88 meters) structure with a shed roof that is 8 feet (2.44 meters) high in the front and 6 feet (1.83 meters) tall in the back.
The barn, depending on your location, can be enclosed on 3 sides (or with half of the front covered).
Another choice is to open it on the side, facing the sun in winter. This way you will have prevailing winds for summer cooling of the horse.
Make the roof from fiberglass or sheet metal. Both of these come in varying lengths and are 26 inches (10.14 cm) wide. The wall cladding is the same material used for the roof.
1-3. Start building the pole barn by laying out the location of the posts on the ground that drains well and is relatively flat.
Make sure you keep the posts square to each other when you lay out the post locations. Remember, it is in 8-foot (2.44 meter) grids. You will need 6 post locations for an 8 x 16-foot (2.44 x 4.88-meter) shed.
1-4. Dig the post holes a minimum of 2 to 4 feet (.61 to 1.22 meters) deep and 1 foot (.
3 meters) wide. Opt for the measurements to be 4 feet (1.22 meters) deep if your climate has a lot of freeze and thaw cycles. Moderate climates require 2 feet (.61 meters).
1-5. Set the treated 4 x 4-inch (10.16 X 10.16 cm) wood posts into place, bracing them to keep them plumb.
Pour a premixed sack of concrete into the hole around the post, up at least 1 foot (. 3 meters). Wait a couple of days for the concrete to set and then backfill the remainder of the way with dirt dug from the holes.
1-6. Tamp down the dirt as you backfill.
Keep checking as you go to ensure your post is square. Use a string line run on the back and front to keep the center post in-line.
1-7. Attach a treated 2 x 6-inch (5.08 x 15.24 cm) wood skirt board around the bottom of the back and sides of the pole barn if you have it open in the front.
Run a skirt board on one side of the front if the ban is to be closed off. This is usually an 8-foot (2.44 meters) section of the front.
Use 2 x 4-inch (5.08 x 10.16 cm) wood grits, or lattice board, 2 feet (.61 meters) apart from the bottom of the skirt board to the top of the wall on 3 sides.
Opt for 2 x 6-inch (5.08 x 15.24 cm) treated wood board all around the outside of the pole barn for the roof frame to sit on the top grit.
Set the stringer top edge (on the side wall section) 6 feet (1.83 meters) from the ground. Now raise the front end up to the 8-foot (2.44 meters) mark on the front.
Cut the post off flush with the roof stringers.
1-8. Add another 2 x 4-inch (5.08 x 10.16 cm) grit on the side level with the one you placed against the bottom of the stringer at the back.
1-9. Use 2 x 6-inch (5.08 x 15.24 cm) wood for the roof rafters that sit on 4-foot (1.22-meter) centers.
Nail the 2 x 4-inch (5.08 x 10.16 cm) wood flat on 1 end.
1-10. Fasten metal hurricane hold-down straps to the posts and to the rafters to prevent high wind gusts from pulling the roof off of the support posts.
1-11. Overlap 29-gauge galvanized corrugated roofing panel by 2 inches (2.12 cm) to the skirt board, stringers and grits.
The holes are pre-drilled and use special #12 2-inch (2.12 cm) metallic steel hex drill-point roofing screws.
Cut to fit using a circular saw fitted with a metal cutoff blade on the sloped sides.
1-12. Finish with preformed foam sealer strips that fit between the roofing and joist.
Add doors to the front, if needed, by building a 2 x 4-foot (.61 x 1.22-meter) frame. Use the same sheet metal as the roof and walls, and hang it from the post.
Tips
Use foil-backed insulation boards that come in 4 x 8-foot (1.22 x 2.44 meter) sizes. Attached them to the walls and roof using staples or nails to help keep the heat out in summer and in during winter.
Warnings
Big gaps anywhere is a possibility for the horse to get stuck. Most likely their feet. So when building, keep this in mind
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:04",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Understand that building a pole barn is straight forward and pretty much as simple as it gets.\\nIt is built with poles that are 4 x 4-inches (10.16 x 10.16 cm). These protected posts, or utility poles, are set in a grid 8 feet (2.44 meters) apart.\\n1-2. Build an 8 x 16-foot (2.44 X 4.88 meters) structure with a shed roof that is 8 feet (2.44 meters) high in the front and 6 feet (1.83 meters) tall in the back.\\nThe barn, depending on your location, can be enclosed on 3 sides (or with half of the front covered).\\nAnother choice is to open it on the side, facing the sun in winter. This way you will have prevailing winds for summer cooling of the horse.\\nMake the roof from fiberglass or sheet metal. Both of these come in varying lengths and are 26 inches (10.14 cm) wide. The wall cladding is the same material used for the roof.\\n1-3. Start building the pole barn by laying out the location of the posts on the ground that drains well and is relatively flat.\\nMake sure you keep the posts square to each other when you lay out the post locations. Remember, it is in 8-foot (2.44 meter) grids. You will need 6 post locations for an 8 x 16-foot (2.44 x 4.88-meter) shed.\\n1-4. Dig the post holes a minimum of 2 to 4 feet (.61 to 1.22 meters) deep and 1 foot (.\\n3 meters) wide. Opt for the measurements to be 4 feet (1.22 meters) deep if your climate has a lot of freeze and thaw cycles. Moderate climates require 2 feet (.61 meters).\\n1-5. Set the treated 4 x 4-inch (10.16 X 10.16 cm) wood posts into place, bracing them to keep them plumb.\\nPour a premixed sack of concrete into the hole around the post, up at least 1 foot (. 3 meters). Wait a couple of days for the concrete to set and then backfill the remainder of the way with dirt dug from the holes.\\n1-6. Tamp down the dirt as you backfill.\\nKeep checking as you go to ensure your post is square. Use a string line run on the back and front to keep the center post in-line.\\n1-7. Attach a treated 2 x 6-inch (5.08 x 15.24 cm) wood skirt board around the bottom of the back and sides of the pole barn if you have it open in the front.\\nRun a skirt board on one side of the front if the ban is to be closed off. This is usually an 8-foot (2.44 meters) section of the front.\\nUse 2 x 4-inch (5.08 x 10.16 cm) wood grits, or lattice board, 2 feet (.61 meters) apart from the bottom of the skirt board to the top of the wall on 3 sides.\\nOpt for 2 x 6-inch (5.08 x 15.24 cm) treated wood board all around the outside of the pole barn for the roof frame to sit on the top grit.\\nSet the stringer top edge (on the side wall section) 6 feet (1.83 meters) from the ground. Now raise the front end up to the 8-foot (2.44 meters) mark on the front.\\nCut the post off flush with the roof stringers.\\n1-8. Add another 2 x 4-inch (5.08 x 10.16 cm) grit on the side level with the one you placed against the bottom of the stringer at the back.\\n\\n1-9. Use 2 x 6-inch (5.08 x 15.24 cm) wood for the roof rafters that sit on 4-foot (1.22-meter) centers.\\nNail the 2 x 4-inch (5.08 x 10.16 cm) wood flat on 1 end.\\n1-10. Fasten metal hurricane hold-down straps to the posts and to the rafters to prevent high wind gusts from pulling the roof off of the support posts.\\n\\n1-11. Overlap 29-gauge galvanized corrugated roofing panel by 2 inches (2.12 cm) to the skirt board, stringers and grits.\\nThe holes are pre-drilled and use special #12 2-inch (2.12 cm) metallic steel hex drill-point roofing screws.\\nCut to fit using a circular saw fitted with a metal cutoff blade on the sloped sides.\\n1-12. Finish with preformed foam sealer strips that fit between the roofing and joist.\\nAdd doors to the front, if needed, by building a 2 x 4-foot (.61 x 1.22-meter) frame. Use the same sheet metal as the roof and walls, and hang it from the post.\\nTips\\nUse foil-backed insulation boards that come in 4 x 8-foot (1.22 x 2.44 meter) sizes. Attached them to the walls and roof using staples or nails to help keep the heat out in summer and in during winter.\\nWarnings\\nBig gaps anywhere is a possibility for the horse to get stuck. Most likely their feet. So when building, keep this in mind\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A shelter for a horse can be as elaborate as your imagination can make it. The truth is that the most you need for the horse is just a place for it to get out of the weather. Include a place to store the tack and the horse feed. A pole barn works great and is the cheapest way to go when you need to build a simple one horse barn.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand that building a pole barn is straight forward and pretty much as simple as it gets.\", \"描述\": \"It is built with poles that are 4 x 4-inches (10.16 x 10.16 cm). These protected posts, or utility poles, are set in a grid 8 feet (2.44 meters) apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build an 8 x 16-foot (2.44 X 4.88 meters) structure with a shed roof that is 8 feet (2.44 meters) high in the front and 6 feet (1.83 meters) tall in the back.\", \"描述\": \"The barn, depending on your location, can be enclosed on 3 sides (or with half of the front covered).\\nAnother choice is to open it on the side, facing the sun in winter. This way you will have prevailing winds for summer cooling of the horse.\\nMake the roof from fiberglass or sheet metal. Both of these come in varying lengths and are 26 inches (10.14 cm) wide. The wall cladding is the same material used for the roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Start building the pole barn by laying out the location of the posts on the ground that drains well and is relatively flat.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you keep the posts square to each other when you lay out the post locations. Remember, it is in 8-foot (2.44 meter) grids. You will need 6 post locations for an 8 x 16-foot (2.44 x 4.88-meter) shed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig the post holes a minimum of 2 to 4 feet (.61 to 1.22 meters) deep and 1 foot (.\", \"描述\": \"3 meters) wide. Opt for the measurements to be 4 feet (1.22 meters) deep if your climate has a lot of freeze and thaw cycles. Moderate climates require 2 feet (.61 meters).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Set the treated 4 x 4-inch (10.16 X 10.16 cm) wood posts into place, bracing them to keep them plumb.\", \"描述\": \"Pour a premixed sack of concrete into the hole around the post, up at least 1 foot (. 3 meters). Wait a couple of days for the concrete to set and then backfill the remainder of the way with dirt dug from the holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Tamp down the dirt as you backfill.\", \"描述\": \"Keep checking as you go to ensure your post is square. Use a string line run on the back and front to keep the center post in-line.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach a treated 2 x 6-inch (5.08 x 15.24 cm) wood skirt board around the bottom of the back and sides of the pole barn if you have it open in the front.\", \"描述\": \"Run a skirt board on one side of the front if the ban is to be closed off. This is usually an 8-foot (2.44 meters) section of the front.\\nUse 2 x 4-inch (5.08 x 10.16 cm) wood grits, or lattice board, 2 feet (.61 meters) apart from the bottom of the skirt board to the top of the wall on 3 sides.\\nOpt for 2 x 6-inch (5.08 x 15.24 cm) treated wood board all around the outside of the pole barn for the roof frame to sit on the top grit.\\nSet the stringer top edge (on the side wall section) 6 feet (1.83 meters) from the ground. Now raise the front end up to the 8-foot (2.44 meters) mark on the front.\\nCut the post off flush with the roof stringers.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add another 2 x 4-inch (5.08 x 10.16 cm) grit on the side level with the one you placed against the bottom of the stringer at the back.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Use 2 x 6-inch (5.08 x 15.24 cm) wood for the roof rafters that sit on 4-foot (1.22-meter) centers.\", \"描述\": \"Nail the 2 x 4-inch (5.08 x 10.16 cm) wood flat on 1 end.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Fasten metal hurricane hold-down straps to the posts and to the rafters to prevent high wind gusts from pulling the roof off of the support posts.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Overlap 29-gauge galvanized corrugated roofing panel by 2 inches (2.12 cm) to the skirt board, stringers and grits.\", \"描述\": \"The holes are pre-drilled and use special #12 2-inch (2.12 cm) metallic steel hex drill-point roofing screws.\\nCut to fit using a circular saw fitted with a metal cutoff blade on the sloped sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Finish with preformed foam sealer strips that fit between the roofing and joist.\", \"描述\": \"Add doors to the front, if needed, by building a 2 x 4-foot (.61 x 1.22-meter) frame. Use the same sheet metal as the roof and walls, and hang it from the post.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use foil-backed insulation boards that come in 4 x 8-foot (1.22 x 2.44 meter) sizes. Attached them to the walls and roof using staples or nails to help keep the heat out in summer and in during winter.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Big gaps anywhere is a possibility for the horse to get stuck. Most likely their feet. So when building, keep this in mind\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,538 |
How to Build a Simple Robot
|
1. Getting the Necessary Parts
1-1. Know where to look.
You can find most of the electrical parts listed in this section in most stores which sell electrical or automotive supplies; additionally, you can find all of the parts listed here online at places such as Amazon and eBay.
If possible, shop online for the components. You'll have a better opportunity to read reviews of the products, and you may qualify for a shipping discount.
1-2. Purchase a pack of hook up wire.
Hook up wire, also called circuit wire, is basic copper wire in a plastic sheath.
If you have a choice, opt for stranded hook up wire rather than solid wire. Stranded is easier to manipulate and solder within the parameters of this project.
1-3. Buy a coin cell battery holder.
This is essentially the body of your robot; it will hold the battery, host the main connections, and mount the "feet" of the robot.
Make sure that your battery holder uses a clip to secure the battery.
Your battery holder should have two basic wire connectors—one positive and one negative—on the bottom. If you find a holder which has a different layout, the assembly instructions may not work.
1-4. Purchase a 3V coin cell battery to fit your holder.
Coin cell batteries are round, flat batteries which are often used to power items such as watches and other small electronics. You can find them in most department stores, though an electronics store or a Home Depot may be a better place to look.
1-5. Find a few ball bearings.
To create the robot's "feet", you'll need three 5/16ths inch diameter ball bearings. You can find these in several home appliances (e.g., old DVD players), but you can also purchase new ones at most automotive or electronics stores.
1-6. Buy the circuit components.
In order to create the circuit that will tell the robot to move when exposed to light, you'll need the following items, all of which can be found online:
One 4.7k resistor (1/2 W)
One photoresistor (also called a photo cell)
One 2N3904 transistor
1-7. Find or buy a micro vibration motor.
Vibration motors, such as the ones found in older cell phones, can be purchased online and in most electronics stores. Make sure you buy a model of vibration motor that has a red wire and a blue wire for its connections.
If you have an old flip phone or pager, you can take it apart and pry out the vibration motor.
Using a vibration motor which doesn't have red and blue wires will result in the assembly instructions not working.
1-8. Make sure you have the correct tools.
Before you can put together your robot, ensure that you have (and know how to use) each of the following items:
Solder gun and solder
Hot glue gun
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Needle nose pliers
Electrical tape (or similarly opaque, easily removed tape)
2. Creating the Battery Compartment
2-1. Make sure that your battery fits in the holder.
Before you connect any wires to the battery holder, try sliding the battery into its slot and securing it with the built-in clamp. If the battery is too small or too large, you'll need to purchase the correct size before you can run your robot.
Your battery holder's packaging or included documentation should have a section regarding the supported sizes of battery.
2-2. Find the battery holder's positive and negative connectors.
These should be two pins on opposite sides of the bottom of the battery holder; the pin connected to the clamp which holds the battery is the positive connector, while the adjacent pin is the negative connector.
You'll need to know which connector is which when attaching the motor and circuit to the battery holder.
2-3. Use the needle nose pliers to bend down the connectors.
The connectors should be bent away from the center of the battery holder so that they face outward.
2-4. Prepare a hook up wire for soldering.
Cut about four inches of hook up wire off of the spool, then use the wire strippers to remove 3/4 of an inch of tubing from each end of the wire.
2-5. Solder the wire to the positive connector.
Place an exposed end of the wire on the positive connector, then use your soldering gun and solder to cement the wire in place.
Once you've successfully soldered the wire in place, you can proceed to the next part.
3. Creating the Circuit
3-1. Lay out the resistor, photoresistor, and transistor.
These are the components of your robot's circuit.
3-2. Bend away one of the transistor's three leads.
While you'll use two of the transistor's wires (or "leads") in the circuit, one of the leads must be left alone for later; you can use the needle nose pliers to bend this lead over.
3-3. Trim the photoresistor's leads.
The photoresistor's two leads are usually an inch to an inch and a half in length, so use the wire cutters to snip all but about 3/4 of an inch off of the leads.
This will make the photoresistor less cumbersome to mount later.
3-4. Connect the battery compartment to the photoresistor.
Take the other exposed end of the wire that you soldered to the battery holder, then solder it to one of the photoresistor's leads.
3-5. Connect the photoresistor to the transistor.
Solder each of the photoresistor's leads to each of the unbent transistor leads.
3-6. Connect the 4.7k resistor to the photoresistor.
You'll solder one end of the resistor to the photoresistor lead that isn't connected to the battery compartment's wire.
At this point, your photoresistor should have one lead that's connected to a transistor lead and the battery compartment wire, and one lead which is connected to a transistor lead and the resistor lead.
4. Building the Robot
4-1. Attach the vibration motor.
Place a couple of dots of hot glue on the bottom of the battery compartment, then quickly place the vibration motor on top of the hot glue and hold it there until it dries.
You'll want to make sure the motor's weight isn't obstructed by any of the battery compartment's components. If you can't spin the motor's weight without the weight hitting something, re-glue the weight as needed.
4-2. Connect the transistor to the vibration motor.
Using the motor's blue wire and the remaining (bent) transistor lead, solder the two together.
4-3. Connect the resistor and the motor to the negative connector.
Solder both the resistor's free end and the motor's red wire to the negative connector on the bottom of the battery compartment.
Remember, the negative connector is the one not attached to the first battery compartment wire you soldered.
4-4. Glue the ball bearings to the bottom of the battery compartment.
How you place these is up to you, but you'll most likely want to glue a ball bearing on both the left and right side of the motor and then fit the third one wherever you can.
4-5. Cover the photoresistor's surface.
Use a small piece of electrical tape to cover the flat portion of the photoresistor's head. This will prevent the robot from activating as soon as you place the battery.
4-6. Place the battery in its slot.
Lift the clamp on top of the battery compartment, then slide in the coin cell battery and release the clamp.
4-7. Turn on your robot.
Place the robot on a flat, well-lit surface, then remove the piece of tape from the photoresistor. The robot should begin vibrating around the surface.
Since the photoresistor is sensitive to light in general (not just sunlight), you'll want to cover the photoresistor when not using the robot.
Tips
You can experiment with different sizes of ball bearings or other mounting strategies, though using something that's too heavy will result in your robot not being able to move.
Warnings
Practice proper safety measures when soldering and using the hot glue gun.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:04",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting the Necessary Parts\\n1-1. Know where to look.\\nYou can find most of the electrical parts listed in this section in most stores which sell electrical or automotive supplies; additionally, you can find all of the parts listed here online at places such as Amazon and eBay.\\nIf possible, shop online for the components. You'll have a better opportunity to read reviews of the products, and you may qualify for a shipping discount.\\n1-2. Purchase a pack of hook up wire.\\nHook up wire, also called circuit wire, is basic copper wire in a plastic sheath.\\nIf you have a choice, opt for stranded hook up wire rather than solid wire. Stranded is easier to manipulate and solder within the parameters of this project.\\n1-3. Buy a coin cell battery holder.\\nThis is essentially the body of your robot; it will hold the battery, host the main connections, and mount the \\\"feet\\\" of the robot.\\nMake sure that your battery holder uses a clip to secure the battery.\\nYour battery holder should have two basic wire connectors—one positive and one negative—on the bottom. If you find a holder which has a different layout, the assembly instructions may not work.\\n1-4. Purchase a 3V coin cell battery to fit your holder.\\nCoin cell batteries are round, flat batteries which are often used to power items such as watches and other small electronics. You can find them in most department stores, though an electronics store or a Home Depot may be a better place to look.\\n1-5. Find a few ball bearings.\\nTo create the robot's \\\"feet\\\", you'll need three 5/16ths inch diameter ball bearings. You can find these in several home appliances (e.g., old DVD players), but you can also purchase new ones at most automotive or electronics stores.\\n1-6. Buy the circuit components.\\nIn order to create the circuit that will tell the robot to move when exposed to light, you'll need the following items, all of which can be found online:\\nOne 4.7k resistor (1/2 W)\\nOne photoresistor (also called a photo cell)\\nOne 2N3904 transistor\\n1-7. Find or buy a micro vibration motor.\\nVibration motors, such as the ones found in older cell phones, can be purchased online and in most electronics stores. Make sure you buy a model of vibration motor that has a red wire and a blue wire for its connections.\\nIf you have an old flip phone or pager, you can take it apart and pry out the vibration motor.\\nUsing a vibration motor which doesn't have red and blue wires will result in the assembly instructions not working.\\n1-8. Make sure you have the correct tools.\\nBefore you can put together your robot, ensure that you have (and know how to use) each of the following items:\\nSolder gun and solder\\nHot glue gun\\nWire cutters\\nWire strippers\\nNeedle nose pliers\\nElectrical tape (or similarly opaque, easily removed tape)\\n2. Creating the Battery Compartment\\n2-1. Make sure that your battery fits in the holder.\\nBefore you connect any wires to the battery holder, try sliding the battery into its slot and securing it with the built-in clamp. If the battery is too small or too large, you'll need to purchase the correct size before you can run your robot.\\nYour battery holder's packaging or included documentation should have a section regarding the supported sizes of battery.\\n2-2. Find the battery holder's positive and negative connectors.\\nThese should be two pins on opposite sides of the bottom of the battery holder; the pin connected to the clamp which holds the battery is the positive connector, while the adjacent pin is the negative connector.\\nYou'll need to know which connector is which when attaching the motor and circuit to the battery holder.\\n2-3. Use the needle nose pliers to bend down the connectors.\\nThe connectors should be bent away from the center of the battery holder so that they face outward.\\n2-4. Prepare a hook up wire for soldering.\\nCut about four inches of hook up wire off of the spool, then use the wire strippers to remove 3/4 of an inch of tubing from each end of the wire.\\n2-5. Solder the wire to the positive connector.\\nPlace an exposed end of the wire on the positive connector, then use your soldering gun and solder to cement the wire in place.\\nOnce you've successfully soldered the wire in place, you can proceed to the next part.\\n3. Creating the Circuit\\n3-1. Lay out the resistor, photoresistor, and transistor.\\nThese are the components of your robot's circuit.\\n3-2. Bend away one of the transistor's three leads.\\nWhile you'll use two of the transistor's wires (or \\\"leads\\\") in the circuit, one of the leads must be left alone for later; you can use the needle nose pliers to bend this lead over.\\n3-3. Trim the photoresistor's leads.\\nThe photoresistor's two leads are usually an inch to an inch and a half in length, so use the wire cutters to snip all but about 3/4 of an inch off of the leads.\\nThis will make the photoresistor less cumbersome to mount later.\\n3-4. Connect the battery compartment to the photoresistor.\\nTake the other exposed end of the wire that you soldered to the battery holder, then solder it to one of the photoresistor's leads.\\n3-5. Connect the photoresistor to the transistor.\\nSolder each of the photoresistor's leads to each of the unbent transistor leads.\\n3-6. Connect the 4.7k resistor to the photoresistor.\\nYou'll solder one end of the resistor to the photoresistor lead that isn't connected to the battery compartment's wire.\\nAt this point, your photoresistor should have one lead that's connected to a transistor lead and the battery compartment wire, and one lead which is connected to a transistor lead and the resistor lead.\\n4. Building the Robot\\n4-1. Attach the vibration motor.\\nPlace a couple of dots of hot glue on the bottom of the battery compartment, then quickly place the vibration motor on top of the hot glue and hold it there until it dries.\\nYou'll want to make sure the motor's weight isn't obstructed by any of the battery compartment's components. If you can't spin the motor's weight without the weight hitting something, re-glue the weight as needed.\\n4-2. Connect the transistor to the vibration motor.\\nUsing the motor's blue wire and the remaining (bent) transistor lead, solder the two together.\\n4-3. Connect the resistor and the motor to the negative connector.\\nSolder both the resistor's free end and the motor's red wire to the negative connector on the bottom of the battery compartment.\\nRemember, the negative connector is the one not attached to the first battery compartment wire you soldered.\\n4-4. Glue the ball bearings to the bottom of the battery compartment.\\nHow you place these is up to you, but you'll most likely want to glue a ball bearing on both the left and right side of the motor and then fit the third one wherever you can.\\n4-5. Cover the photoresistor's surface.\\nUse a small piece of electrical tape to cover the flat portion of the photoresistor's head. This will prevent the robot from activating as soon as you place the battery.\\n4-6. Place the battery in its slot.\\nLift the clamp on top of the battery compartment, then slide in the coin cell battery and release the clamp.\\n4-7. Turn on your robot.\\nPlace the robot on a flat, well-lit surface, then remove the piece of tape from the photoresistor. The robot should begin vibrating around the surface.\\nSince the photoresistor is sensitive to light in general (not just sunlight), you'll want to cover the photoresistor when not using the robot.\\nTips\\nYou can experiment with different sizes of ball bearings or other mounting strategies, though using something that's too heavy will result in your robot not being able to move.\\nWarnings\\nPractice proper safety measures when soldering and using the hot glue gun.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This wikiHow teaches you how to make a simple, light-activated robot that can vibrate its way across a surface. While the robot detailed here won't perform complex tasks, building it will help you develop a basic understanding of circuitry fundamentals which you can use to build more complicated robots in the future. Keep in mind that you'll need a budget of around $50 for this project if you don't already have most of the required components.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting the Necessary Parts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know where to look.\", \"描述\": \"You can find most of the electrical parts listed in this section in most stores which sell electrical or automotive supplies; additionally, you can find all of the parts listed here online at places such as Amazon and eBay.\\nIf possible, shop online for the components. You'll have a better opportunity to read reviews of the products, and you may qualify for a shipping discount.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase a pack of hook up wire.\", \"描述\": \"Hook up wire, also called circuit wire, is basic copper wire in a plastic sheath.\\nIf you have a choice, opt for stranded hook up wire rather than solid wire. Stranded is easier to manipulate and solder within the parameters of this project.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Buy a coin cell battery holder.\", \"描述\": \"This is essentially the body of your robot; it will hold the battery, host the main connections, and mount the \\\"feet\\\" of the robot.\\nMake sure that your battery holder uses a clip to secure the battery.\\nYour battery holder should have two basic wire connectors—one positive and one negative—on the bottom. If you find a holder which has a different layout, the assembly instructions may not work.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Purchase a 3V coin cell battery to fit your holder.\", \"描述\": \"Coin cell batteries are round, flat batteries which are often used to power items such as watches and other small electronics. You can find them in most department stores, though an electronics store or a Home Depot may be a better place to look.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Find a few ball bearings.\", \"描述\": \"To create the robot's \\\"feet\\\", you'll need three 5/16ths inch diameter ball bearings. You can find these in several home appliances (e.g., old DVD players), but you can also purchase new ones at most automotive or electronics stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Buy the circuit components.\", \"描述\": \"In order to create the circuit that will tell the robot to move when exposed to light, you'll need the following items, all of which can be found online:\\nOne 4.7k resistor (1/2 W)\\nOne photoresistor (also called a photo cell)\\nOne 2N3904 transistor\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Find or buy a micro vibration motor.\", \"描述\": \"Vibration motors, such as the ones found in older cell phones, can be purchased online and in most electronics stores. Make sure you buy a model of vibration motor that has a red wire and a blue wire for its connections.\\nIf you have an old flip phone or pager, you can take it apart and pry out the vibration motor.\\nUsing a vibration motor which doesn't have red and blue wires will result in the assembly instructions not working.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Make sure you have the correct tools.\", \"描述\": \"Before you can put together your robot, ensure that you have (and know how to use) each of the following items:\\nSolder gun and solder\\nHot glue gun\\nWire cutters\\nWire strippers\\nNeedle nose pliers\\nElectrical tape (or similarly opaque, easily removed tape)\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Battery Compartment\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure that your battery fits in the holder.\", \"描述\": \"Before you connect any wires to the battery holder, try sliding the battery into its slot and securing it with the built-in clamp. If the battery is too small or too large, you'll need to purchase the correct size before you can run your robot.\\nYour battery holder's packaging or included documentation should have a section regarding the supported sizes of battery.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find the battery holder's positive and negative connectors.\", \"描述\": \"These should be two pins on opposite sides of the bottom of the battery holder; the pin connected to the clamp which holds the battery is the positive connector, while the adjacent pin is the negative connector.\\nYou'll need to know which connector is which when attaching the motor and circuit to the battery holder.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use the needle nose pliers to bend down the connectors.\", \"描述\": \"The connectors should be bent away from the center of the battery holder so that they face outward.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Prepare a hook up wire for soldering.\", \"描述\": \"Cut about four inches of hook up wire off of the spool, then use the wire strippers to remove 3/4 of an inch of tubing from each end of the wire.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Solder the wire to the positive connector.\", \"描述\": \"Place an exposed end of the wire on the positive connector, then use your soldering gun and solder to cement the wire in place.\\nOnce you've successfully soldered the wire in place, you can proceed to the next part.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Creating the Circuit\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out the resistor, photoresistor, and transistor.\", \"描述\": \"These are the components of your robot's circuit.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Bend away one of the transistor's three leads.\", \"描述\": \"While you'll use two of the transistor's wires (or \\\"leads\\\") in the circuit, one of the leads must be left alone for later; you can use the needle nose pliers to bend this lead over.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Trim the photoresistor's leads.\", \"描述\": \"The photoresistor's two leads are usually an inch to an inch and a half in length, so use the wire cutters to snip all but about 3/4 of an inch off of the leads.\\nThis will make the photoresistor less cumbersome to mount later.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the battery compartment to the photoresistor.\", \"描述\": \"Take the other exposed end of the wire that you soldered to the battery holder, then solder it to one of the photoresistor's leads.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect the photoresistor to the transistor.\", \"描述\": \"Solder each of the photoresistor's leads to each of the unbent transistor leads.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Connect the 4.7k resistor to the photoresistor.\", \"描述\": \"You'll solder one end of the resistor to the photoresistor lead that isn't connected to the battery compartment's wire.\\nAt this point, your photoresistor should have one lead that's connected to a transistor lead and the battery compartment wire, and one lead which is connected to a transistor lead and the resistor lead.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Building the Robot\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach the vibration motor.\", \"描述\": \"Place a couple of dots of hot glue on the bottom of the battery compartment, then quickly place the vibration motor on top of the hot glue and hold it there until it dries.\\nYou'll want to make sure the motor's weight isn't obstructed by any of the battery compartment's components. If you can't spin the motor's weight without the weight hitting something, re-glue the weight as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect the transistor to the vibration motor.\", \"描述\": \"Using the motor's blue wire and the remaining (bent) transistor lead, solder the two together.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the resistor and the motor to the negative connector.\", \"描述\": \"Solder both the resistor's free end and the motor's red wire to the negative connector on the bottom of the battery compartment.\\nRemember, the negative connector is the one not attached to the first battery compartment wire you soldered.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue the ball bearings to the bottom of the battery compartment.\", \"描述\": \"How you place these is up to you, but you'll most likely want to glue a ball bearing on both the left and right side of the motor and then fit the third one wherever you can.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cover the photoresistor's surface.\", \"描述\": \"Use a small piece of electrical tape to cover the flat portion of the photoresistor's head. This will prevent the robot from activating as soon as you place the battery.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the battery in its slot.\", \"描述\": \"Lift the clamp on top of the battery compartment, then slide in the coin cell battery and release the clamp.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Turn on your robot.\", \"描述\": \"Place the robot on a flat, well-lit surface, then remove the piece of tape from the photoresistor. The robot should begin vibrating around the surface.\\nSince the photoresistor is sensitive to light in general (not just sunlight), you'll want to cover the photoresistor when not using the robot.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can experiment with different sizes of ball bearings or other mounting strategies, though using something that's too heavy will result in your robot not being able to move.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Practice proper safety measures when soldering and using the hot glue gun.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,539 |
How to Build a Simple Treasure Chest
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1. Steps
1-1. Plan the size of your chest.
The one built in this project is 11 inches wide, 9 inches tall (excluding the top) and 16 inches long (28 x 23 x 41 cm).
1-2. Gather the lumber you will use.
Here, we used 1 X 10 (19 mm × 235 mm) scrap maple lumber which had been stained and lacquered, then thrown in a construction site dumpster. For the size in the illustrations, an eight foot (2.4 m) long board and some odd scraps were used.
1-3. Set up a table to do the assembly on.
Two saw horses and a sheet of plywood works fine, but a heavy workbench would be better.
1-4. Get the tools out, making sure the circular saw has a sharp blade.
There are some rabbets to cut for joining the corners, and a sharp blade will make this process much easier.
1-5. Mark your lumber for the cuts.
Here, the end pieces are cut 8 3/8 inches (21.3 cm), to the short point, with each end cut on a 7 degree angle so the sides of the chest will be slanted. Mark each cut on one piece of lumber, then cut them carefully. Use the first piece as a pattern to cut the second, or measure and mark it exactly, if you prefer.
1-6. Cut your side boards, making each cut square (a 90 degree angle).
Make sure one end of the board is square, then measure 16 inches (40.6 cm). Make your mark, then scribe a straight line across the board using a framing square. Cut these carefully, as well.
1-7. Mark the rabbet cuts for the side boards to join the ends.
You can use the end boards to scribe the cuts as shown in the photo, or measure 3/4 of an inch (1.9 cm) and square this line. Cut 2/3 of the thickness of the lumber deep. Here, we are using a nominal one by board, 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) thick, so we set the saw to cut 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) deep.
1-8. Set the board on end , holding it in a vise or clamped to the work table, and cut 3/4 of an inch (1.9 cm) deep across the end, 1/2 of an inch (1.25 cm) back from the finished side.
1-9. Join the end boards to the side boards.
We used a carpenter's grade hot melt wood glue, but these joints may be nailed or screwed, or fastened with conventional wood glue. Make sure all edges are flush and true, and try to keep the corners as square as possible. A jig will help if you are having difficulty aligning and squaring the pieces.
1-10. Measure the opening at the bottom of your box.
Using the dimensions of the chest shown, the bottom will be 14 1/2 inches (36.8 cm) by 7 inches (17.8 cm), but checking the actual assembled size will provide a better fit. Cut the bottom out of a piece of your lumber, the size you have measured, with the saw blade set on a 7 degree bevel on the long sides so it fits the tapered sides of your chest.
1-11. Install the bottom into your box.
If it is cut correctly, you may need to tap it into place, since the tapered edges will seat firmly into the bottom.
1-12. Lay the box on its edge, and mark a line 3/8 of an inch (.95 cm) below the top, and cut around the box, 3/8 inch deep.
Cut 3/8 inch deep around the top of the box, 3/8 inch from the outside edge. This will form a recess for the lid to set down on, creating a somewhat better seat for the lid to set in
1-13. Mark two pieces of lumber the width of the chest long, here, 10 1/4 inches (26 cm).
If you are using wide lumber, as in the photos, you can rip it in half to reduce waste. Mark a radius from the edge to form the curved shape of the top of the chest. Here, we used the lid from a five gallon bucket, which provided an ideal curve with little effort.
1-14. Cut the radius on the first piece, using a jigsaw or coping saw, then mark the second, using the first as a pattern.
These two pieces should be as closely matched as possible to make fitting the finished lid easier.
1-15. Cut a rabbet, 3/8 inch (.95 cm) wide and deep in the bottom of the lid ends.
Here, a vise or clamp is very helpful, since the stock you are cutting is almost impossible to hold safely while you cut. When the two ends are cut and rabbeted, you can temporarily attach them to the chest to make fitting the lid slats more simple. Here, again, hot melt glue makes this quick and simple.
1-16. Rip strips of lumber 1/4 inch (.6 cm) thick.
Make sure they are at least as long as the length of the chest, but ripping longer boards and then cutting several to length from each rip will save time.
1-17. Cut the strips the same length as the sides of your chest.
If you have attached the lid ends to the top of the chest box, you can simply scribe them in place. Glue these, starting on each side and the center of the top, to keep the assembly square and true. Fit the edges as tightly as possible, but because of the radius of the lid, you can expect a noticeable gap unless you choose to bevel each piece individually. You can leave these strips overhanging each end slightly by cutting them 1/4 inch (.6 cm) long, then after attaching them, the ends can be sanded flush.
1-18. Attach enough strips to wrap the lid, forming a complete cover, then add an additional strip on the front and rear edges to attach hardware to.
Clean up the edges, light sand the surfaces, and bevel corners and other features that may produce splinters or leave a sharp edge.
1-19. Rip two very thin strips to overlay on the lid ends.
These will act as bands, and help secure the lid slats to the box, but for all practical purposes, they are ornamental. Test fit these strips and scribe the ends, then cut them to length. Make sure they are sufficiently thin and limber to bend the radius of your lid without splitting or cracking. Attach them with glue or tacks.
1-20. Sand all the corners and edges of your chest and lid.
If you want to stain or paint the chest, now is the time to do it, before the hardware (hinges, handles, and the hasp) is installed.
1-21. Finish the wood, depending on your preference.
Since this project was started with stained hardwood, and no matching stain was available, brown spray paint was used to blend the colors of the original stain, giving a pretty good finish.
1-22. Attach the hardware.
Here, antiqued cabinet hinges and pull handles were used to add to the rustic effect. The hardware can be attached with the Hot Melt glue so it can be test fitted, or you can simply attach it with the screws provided in the set you buy. Be sure to check the operation of hinges before completing installation, since if they are not correctly aligned, they will likely bind or cause the lid to fit crookedly.
Tips
If making this for a child, add a hinge that doesn't allow it to slam shut on little fingers.
Always follow safe practices when using power tools, including eye protection, and use a respirator when cutting or sanding wood or spray painting if you are sensitive to these airborne particles.
When making difficult cuts, such as rabbets, the board should be securely held in place, and hands must be kept clear of the saw blade.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:04",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Plan the size of your chest.\\nThe one built in this project is 11 inches wide, 9 inches tall (excluding the top) and 16 inches long (28 x 23 x 41 cm).\\n1-2. Gather the lumber you will use.\\nHere, we used 1 X 10 (19 mm × 235 mm) scrap maple lumber which had been stained and lacquered, then thrown in a construction site dumpster. For the size in the illustrations, an eight foot (2.4 m) long board and some odd scraps were used.\\n1-3. Set up a table to do the assembly on.\\nTwo saw horses and a sheet of plywood works fine, but a heavy workbench would be better.\\n1-4. Get the tools out, making sure the circular saw has a sharp blade.\\nThere are some rabbets to cut for joining the corners, and a sharp blade will make this process much easier.\\n1-5. Mark your lumber for the cuts.\\nHere, the end pieces are cut 8 3/8 inches (21.3 cm), to the short point, with each end cut on a 7 degree angle so the sides of the chest will be slanted. Mark each cut on one piece of lumber, then cut them carefully. Use the first piece as a pattern to cut the second, or measure and mark it exactly, if you prefer.\\n1-6. Cut your side boards, making each cut square (a 90 degree angle).\\nMake sure one end of the board is square, then measure 16 inches (40.6 cm). Make your mark, then scribe a straight line across the board using a framing square. Cut these carefully, as well.\\n1-7. Mark the rabbet cuts for the side boards to join the ends.\\nYou can use the end boards to scribe the cuts as shown in the photo, or measure 3/4 of an inch (1.9 cm) and square this line. Cut 2/3 of the thickness of the lumber deep. Here, we are using a nominal one by board, 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) thick, so we set the saw to cut 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) deep.\\n1-8. Set the board on end , holding it in a vise or clamped to the work table, and cut 3/4 of an inch (1.9 cm) deep across the end, 1/2 of an inch (1.25 cm) back from the finished side.\\n\\n1-9. Join the end boards to the side boards.\\nWe used a carpenter's grade hot melt wood glue, but these joints may be nailed or screwed, or fastened with conventional wood glue. Make sure all edges are flush and true, and try to keep the corners as square as possible. A jig will help if you are having difficulty aligning and squaring the pieces.\\n1-10. Measure the opening at the bottom of your box.\\nUsing the dimensions of the chest shown, the bottom will be 14 1/2 inches (36.8 cm) by 7 inches (17.8 cm), but checking the actual assembled size will provide a better fit. Cut the bottom out of a piece of your lumber, the size you have measured, with the saw blade set on a 7 degree bevel on the long sides so it fits the tapered sides of your chest.\\n1-11. Install the bottom into your box.\\nIf it is cut correctly, you may need to tap it into place, since the tapered edges will seat firmly into the bottom.\\n1-12. Lay the box on its edge, and mark a line 3/8 of an inch (.95 cm) below the top, and cut around the box, 3/8 inch deep.\\nCut 3/8 inch deep around the top of the box, 3/8 inch from the outside edge. This will form a recess for the lid to set down on, creating a somewhat better seat for the lid to set in\\n1-13. Mark two pieces of lumber the width of the chest long, here, 10 1/4 inches (26 cm).\\nIf you are using wide lumber, as in the photos, you can rip it in half to reduce waste. Mark a radius from the edge to form the curved shape of the top of the chest. Here, we used the lid from a five gallon bucket, which provided an ideal curve with little effort.\\n1-14. Cut the radius on the first piece, using a jigsaw or coping saw, then mark the second, using the first as a pattern.\\nThese two pieces should be as closely matched as possible to make fitting the finished lid easier.\\n1-15. Cut a rabbet, 3/8 inch (.95 cm) wide and deep in the bottom of the lid ends.\\nHere, a vise or clamp is very helpful, since the stock you are cutting is almost impossible to hold safely while you cut. When the two ends are cut and rabbeted, you can temporarily attach them to the chest to make fitting the lid slats more simple. Here, again, hot melt glue makes this quick and simple.\\n1-16. Rip strips of lumber 1/4 inch (.6 cm) thick.\\nMake sure they are at least as long as the length of the chest, but ripping longer boards and then cutting several to length from each rip will save time.\\n1-17. Cut the strips the same length as the sides of your chest.\\nIf you have attached the lid ends to the top of the chest box, you can simply scribe them in place. Glue these, starting on each side and the center of the top, to keep the assembly square and true. Fit the edges as tightly as possible, but because of the radius of the lid, you can expect a noticeable gap unless you choose to bevel each piece individually. You can leave these strips overhanging each end slightly by cutting them 1/4 inch (.6 cm) long, then after attaching them, the ends can be sanded flush.\\n1-18. Attach enough strips to wrap the lid, forming a complete cover, then add an additional strip on the front and rear edges to attach hardware to.\\nClean up the edges, light sand the surfaces, and bevel corners and other features that may produce splinters or leave a sharp edge.\\n1-19. Rip two very thin strips to overlay on the lid ends.\\nThese will act as bands, and help secure the lid slats to the box, but for all practical purposes, they are ornamental. Test fit these strips and scribe the ends, then cut them to length. Make sure they are sufficiently thin and limber to bend the radius of your lid without splitting or cracking. Attach them with glue or tacks.\\n1-20. Sand all the corners and edges of your chest and lid.\\nIf you want to stain or paint the chest, now is the time to do it, before the hardware (hinges, handles, and the hasp) is installed.\\n1-21. Finish the wood, depending on your preference.\\nSince this project was started with stained hardwood, and no matching stain was available, brown spray paint was used to blend the colors of the original stain, giving a pretty good finish.\\n1-22. Attach the hardware.\\nHere, antiqued cabinet hinges and pull handles were used to add to the rustic effect. The hardware can be attached with the Hot Melt glue so it can be test fitted, or you can simply attach it with the screws provided in the set you buy. Be sure to check the operation of hinges before completing installation, since if they are not correctly aligned, they will likely bind or cause the lid to fit crookedly.\\nTips\\nIf making this for a child, add a hinge that doesn't allow it to slam shut on little fingers.\\nAlways follow safe practices when using power tools, including eye protection, and use a respirator when cutting or sanding wood or spray painting if you are sensitive to these airborne particles.\\nWhen making difficult cuts, such as rabbets, the board should be securely held in place, and hands must be kept clear of the saw blade.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether for the little pirate, or for your own safe storage, a simple wooden treasure chest can be built in an afternoon with some common tools and inexpensive lumber. Here are some steps to show you how it's done.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan the size of your chest.\", \"描述\": \"The one built in this project is 11 inches wide, 9 inches tall (excluding the top) and 16 inches long (28 x 23 x 41 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather the lumber you will use.\", \"描述\": \"Here, we used 1 X 10 (19 mm × 235 mm) scrap maple lumber which had been stained and lacquered, then thrown in a construction site dumpster. For the size in the illustrations, an eight foot (2.4 m) long board and some odd scraps were used.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set up a table to do the assembly on.\", \"描述\": \"Two saw horses and a sheet of plywood works fine, but a heavy workbench would be better.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get the tools out, making sure the circular saw has a sharp blade.\", \"描述\": \"There are some rabbets to cut for joining the corners, and a sharp blade will make this process much easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mark your lumber for the cuts.\", \"描述\": \"Here, the end pieces are cut 8 3/8 inches (21.3 cm), to the short point, with each end cut on a 7 degree angle so the sides of the chest will be slanted. Mark each cut on one piece of lumber, then cut them carefully. Use the first piece as a pattern to cut the second, or measure and mark it exactly, if you prefer.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut your side boards, making each cut square (a 90 degree angle).\", \"描述\": \"Make sure one end of the board is square, then measure 16 inches (40.6 cm). Make your mark, then scribe a straight line across the board using a framing square. Cut these carefully, as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Mark the rabbet cuts for the side boards to join the ends.\", \"描述\": \"You can use the end boards to scribe the cuts as shown in the photo, or measure 3/4 of an inch (1.9 cm) and square this line. Cut 2/3 of the thickness of the lumber deep. Here, we are using a nominal one by board, 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) thick, so we set the saw to cut 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) deep.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Set the board on end , holding it in a vise or clamped to the work table, and cut 3/4 of an inch (1.9 cm) deep across the end, 1/2 of an inch (1.25 cm) back from the finished side.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Join the end boards to the side boards.\", \"描述\": \"We used a carpenter's grade hot melt wood glue, but these joints may be nailed or screwed, or fastened with conventional wood glue. Make sure all edges are flush and true, and try to keep the corners as square as possible. A jig will help if you are having difficulty aligning and squaring the pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Measure the opening at the bottom of your box.\", \"描述\": \"Using the dimensions of the chest shown, the bottom will be 14 1/2 inches (36.8 cm) by 7 inches (17.8 cm), but checking the actual assembled size will provide a better fit. Cut the bottom out of a piece of your lumber, the size you have measured, with the saw blade set on a 7 degree bevel on the long sides so it fits the tapered sides of your chest.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Install the bottom into your box.\", \"描述\": \"If it is cut correctly, you may need to tap it into place, since the tapered edges will seat firmly into the bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Lay the box on its edge, and mark a line 3/8 of an inch (.95 cm) below the top, and cut around the box, 3/8 inch deep.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 3/8 inch deep around the top of the box, 3/8 inch from the outside edge. This will form a recess for the lid to set down on, creating a somewhat better seat for the lid to set in\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Mark two pieces of lumber the width of the chest long, here, 10 1/4 inches (26 cm).\", \"描述\": \"If you are using wide lumber, as in the photos, you can rip it in half to reduce waste. Mark a radius from the edge to form the curved shape of the top of the chest. Here, we used the lid from a five gallon bucket, which provided an ideal curve with little effort.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Cut the radius on the first piece, using a jigsaw or coping saw, then mark the second, using the first as a pattern.\", \"描述\": \"These two pieces should be as closely matched as possible to make fitting the finished lid easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Cut a rabbet, 3/8 inch (.95 cm) wide and deep in the bottom of the lid ends.\", \"描述\": \"Here, a vise or clamp is very helpful, since the stock you are cutting is almost impossible to hold safely while you cut. When the two ends are cut and rabbeted, you can temporarily attach them to the chest to make fitting the lid slats more simple. Here, again, hot melt glue makes this quick and simple.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Rip strips of lumber 1/4 inch (.6 cm) thick.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure they are at least as long as the length of the chest, but ripping longer boards and then cutting several to length from each rip will save time.\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Cut the strips the same length as the sides of your chest.\", \"描述\": \"If you have attached the lid ends to the top of the chest box, you can simply scribe them in place. Glue these, starting on each side and the center of the top, to keep the assembly square and true. Fit the edges as tightly as possible, but because of the radius of the lid, you can expect a noticeable gap unless you choose to bevel each piece individually. You can leave these strips overhanging each end slightly by cutting them 1/4 inch (.6 cm) long, then after attaching them, the ends can be sanded flush.\"}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Attach enough strips to wrap the lid, forming a complete cover, then add an additional strip on the front and rear edges to attach hardware to.\", \"描述\": \"Clean up the edges, light sand the surfaces, and bevel corners and other features that may produce splinters or leave a sharp edge.\"}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"Rip two very thin strips to overlay on the lid ends.\", \"描述\": \"These will act as bands, and help secure the lid slats to the box, but for all practical purposes, they are ornamental. Test fit these strips and scribe the ends, then cut them to length. Make sure they are sufficiently thin and limber to bend the radius of your lid without splitting or cracking. Attach them with glue or tacks.\"}, {\"编号\": 20, \"标题\": \"Sand all the corners and edges of your chest and lid.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to stain or paint the chest, now is the time to do it, before the hardware (hinges, handles, and the hasp) is installed.\"}, {\"编号\": 21, \"标题\": \"Finish the wood, depending on your preference.\", \"描述\": \"Since this project was started with stained hardwood, and no matching stain was available, brown spray paint was used to blend the colors of the original stain, giving a pretty good finish.\"}, {\"编号\": 22, \"标题\": \"Attach the hardware.\", \"描述\": \"Here, antiqued cabinet hinges and pull handles were used to add to the rustic effect. The hardware can be attached with the Hot Melt glue so it can be test fitted, or you can simply attach it with the screws provided in the set you buy. Be sure to check the operation of hinges before completing installation, since if they are not correctly aligned, they will likely bind or cause the lid to fit crookedly.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If making this for a child, add a hinge that doesn't allow it to slam shut on little fingers.\\n\", \"Always follow safe practices when using power tools, including eye protection, and use a respirator when cutting or sanding wood or spray painting if you are sensitive to these airborne particles.\\n\", \"When making difficult cuts, such as rabbets, the board should be securely held in place, and hands must be kept clear of the saw blade.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,540 |
How to Build a Simple Wood Truss
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1. Selecting the Right Type of Truss
1-1. Measure your structure to determine how big your truss needs to be.
Trusses can be built in many different shapes and sizes to accommodate the dimensions of various structures. Before you can begin plotting the exact specifications of your truss, find the overall length and height of the structure being reinforced.
A truss for a gable roof on one side of your home, for example, might need to be 15 feet (4.6 m) long and 4–6 feet (1.2–1.8 m) tall.
The dimensions of your structure will determine the angles formed by the truss’s top and bottom beams, or “chords.” On a relatively shallow roof, for instance, the upper and lower chords may meet at a 30-degree angle on each side.
In some cases, building codes may dictate the size requirements of a truss for a certain type of structure. Be sure to consult your local building codes before you begin drawing up plans for your truss.
1-2. Use a simple king post truss to reinforce small, lightweight structures.
A king post truss design features a single vertical joist that runs through the center of the triangular frame. This style is useful for framing structures that don’t require quite as much support as structures that bear more weight.
A king post truss may be all you need if you're looking to add some extra stability to a garden shed or gable roof.
1-3. Build a Fink truss to bolster a floor, roof, or deck.
In a Fink truss, the internal joists are arranged in a “W” shape, ensuring even weight distribution from one end to the other. Fink trusses were originally invented for the purpose of beefing up bridges, but many contractors now use them to increase the strength of interior structures.
When fashioning a Fink truss, the middle of the "W" will be at the center line of the triangle. Similarly, the points formed by the internal joists will connect at the midpoints on either side of the center line.
Due to the symmetrical simplicity of their design, Fink-style trusses can also make an attractive alternative to plainer styles for ornamental structures like gazebos and covered outdoor shelters.
1-4. Construct a Howe truss to provide unshakable support from below.
Howe trusses closely resemble the King Post and Fink styles, only with additional angled beams arranged around the central joist at regular intervals. They are often built onto the underside of the structure they're intended for.
The internal angles in a Howe truss are repeated at regular intervals. Both sides of a standard Howe truss, for example, might consist of joists forming opposing 90 and 60-degree angles.
Because of their complex configuration, Howe trusses tend to be difficult to plan and assemble, and are most often reserved very large load-bearing structures.
A Howe-style design will offer maximum reinforcement for multi-level structures, as well as those built from especially heavy materials.
2. Designing Your Truss
2-1. Size the bottom chord 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) longer than the floor.
Start by noting the exact length of the structure’s floor. Then, add 0.25 inches (0.64 cm). This will account for possible inconsistencies and ensure that the truss is a proper fit.
If possible, use a tape measure to double-check the floor’s length rather than simply relying on the recorded measurements listed in the building plan.
2-2. Incorporate overhanging top chords to add extra visual flair.
On some roof trusses, the 2 top chords extend down over the edges of the bottom chord, creating a built-in overhang. If you think you’d prefer an overhang-style truss, adjust the measurements for your top chords accordingly. Your top chords can protrude beyond the bottom chord anywhere from 1–3 feet (0.30–0.91 m).
Overhanging chords are more of a stylistic feature than a practical one, and shouldn’t affect the overall stability of the truss.
2-3. Cut plywood gusset plates to fasten together lightweight trusses.
Gusset plates are used to secure the connections between the individual truss components. Fashion your own set of plywood gusset plates by cutting thick sheets of plywood to fit over each site where one joist meets another. This will include all 3 corners of the frame, as well as the top and bottom of each beam crisscrossing the center of the truss.
Use a circular saw or skill saw to cut your plywood to the right size and shape.
Making your own plywood gusset plates will help you keep the overhead for your project low.
2-4. Use steel gusset plates to secure trusses for weight-bearing structures.
Depending on the scale of your project and the specific building codes in your area, you may have the choice to use galvanized steel gusset plates. While these won't be necessary for most projects, they can come in handy for holding together trusses designed for bridges, cathedral-style roofs, or other especially large structures.
You can order steel gusset plates from companies that specialize in construction timber or steel-working supplies.
Solid steel gusset plates cost quite a bit more than plywood ones, so make sure they fit into the budget you've set for your project.
2-5. Create a detailed sketch of your truss design.
Once you have all of your measurements worked out, commit your plans to a sheet of graphing paper. Draw each of the major lines and angles to scale, being sure to note their exact specifications out to one side. Alternatively, you can use an architectural design software to generate a diagram based on the specific measurements you assign.
If you’re drafting up your plans by hand, use a ruler to make sure that your lines are straight and the internal angles of the truss are accurately represented.
You can find many helpful digital design programs for free or cheap online.
2-6. Submit your building plans to your local licensing authority.
Most cities have agencies responsible for overseeing building codes and regulations. After completing the design for your wood truss, you’ll need to submit a copy to the licensing department for your region in order to have it approved for construction.
If you’re not sure who the licensing authority for your area is, run a quick search for “construction licensing” plus the name of your city, state, or territory.
The criteria used by your licensing department may differ depending on factors like zoning laws, geographical features, and weather patterns. For example, if you live in an area with heavy snowfall, your city will likely have strict requirements about the bearing strength of your new structure.
Building codes may not apply if you’re just constructing a truss for simple structures like a small tool shed.
3. Putting the Truss Together
3-1. Measure and mark your timber with a pencil.
Before you begin sawing your raw materials, lay out your lumber on a flat surface and trace a line where you plan on making each cut. Precise measurements are critical if you want your truss to be sturdy and fit together properly.
Refer back to the plans you drew up to keep track of how long each piece of lumber needs to be.
Use a triangle square to verify the angles at the edges of the top and bottom chords.
Trusses for common structures like houses, carports, and gazebos are most often constructed using 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) wooden boards.
3-2. Cut your truss pieces to size using a jigsaw.
A jigsaw will allow you to make short crosscuts through thick pieces of wood with maximum efficiency. Set your lumber on a shop table or between 2 sawhorses and guide the saw smoothly across the measurement lines you drew earlier to achieve clean, precise cuts.
To prevent the pieces from shifting, consider using a table clamp to hold them fast to your work surface.
Always wear gloves and safety glasses to protect yourself from injury while operating a power saw.
3-3. Assemble your truss in the desired shape.
After cutting your lumber, gather up the individual pieces and begin fitting them together. Remember, you’ll need 2 top chords, 1 bottom chord, and at least 1 central joist for support.
Study your plans closely to make sure you're piecing the internal joists together in the correct configuration for the style you've chosen.
Keep in mind that the angles formed by the internal joists will remain the same despite differences in the frame's height or width.
This is a good opportunity to visually confirm that each component has been cut to the correct size. If you encounter any mistakes, you may need to start over with a fresh piece of lumber.
3-4. Use construction adhesive to hold the truss components together.
Apply a generous amount of adhesive to the face of each piece where it will intersect with the next using a putty knife. Then, carefully return the piece to its place in the assembly. Press the 2 connecting pieces together for 30-40 seconds to ensure that the adhesive sticks firmly.
For ease of application, look for glues that come in tubes similar to caulk guns.
Take your time to make sure everything is where it needs to be. With most adhesives, you’ll have a window of 10-15 minutes before the adhesive begins to set. This will allow you to reposition your components as needed.
3-5. Attach gusset plates at each connection site to fasten the finished truss.
Apply a thin layer of construction adhesive to the backside of a plate. Then, flip it over and press it firmly into place over a joint between two truss beams. Insert construction screws every 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) through the holes in the face of the plate and use an electric drill drive the screws deep into the wood. Repeat this process at each remaining joint.
If you're working with plywood gusset plates, you can drill your screws directly through the plates themselves.
Give the adhesive 1-2 minutes to bond before installing the screws. That way, the friction of the drill won’t cause the plates to slip out of place.
Allow the adhesive to set overnight. The following day, your truss will be ready to add on to the structure it’s intended to support.
Tips
There are dozens of different truss designs. Read up on the various types to learn more about their unique features and specifications.
It's recommended that you buy 10-15% more lumber than you think you'll need to account for possible waste and give yourself a little leeway.
Warnings
The point of a truss is to provide support, which means constructing one incorrectly could lead to structural defects or, worse, personal injury. If you're not confident in your ability to design and build a truss on your own, hire a qualified contractor to come in and make sure the job gets done right.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:04",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Selecting the Right Type of Truss\\n1-1. Measure your structure to determine how big your truss needs to be.\\nTrusses can be built in many different shapes and sizes to accommodate the dimensions of various structures. Before you can begin plotting the exact specifications of your truss, find the overall length and height of the structure being reinforced.\\nA truss for a gable roof on one side of your home, for example, might need to be 15 feet (4.6 m) long and 4–6 feet (1.2–1.8 m) tall.\\nThe dimensions of your structure will determine the angles formed by the truss’s top and bottom beams, or “chords.” On a relatively shallow roof, for instance, the upper and lower chords may meet at a 30-degree angle on each side.\\nIn some cases, building codes may dictate the size requirements of a truss for a certain type of structure. Be sure to consult your local building codes before you begin drawing up plans for your truss.\\n1-2. Use a simple king post truss to reinforce small, lightweight structures.\\nA king post truss design features a single vertical joist that runs through the center of the triangular frame. This style is useful for framing structures that don’t require quite as much support as structures that bear more weight.\\nA king post truss may be all you need if you're looking to add some extra stability to a garden shed or gable roof.\\n1-3. Build a Fink truss to bolster a floor, roof, or deck.\\nIn a Fink truss, the internal joists are arranged in a “W” shape, ensuring even weight distribution from one end to the other. Fink trusses were originally invented for the purpose of beefing up bridges, but many contractors now use them to increase the strength of interior structures.\\nWhen fashioning a Fink truss, the middle of the \\\"W\\\" will be at the center line of the triangle. Similarly, the points formed by the internal joists will connect at the midpoints on either side of the center line.\\nDue to the symmetrical simplicity of their design, Fink-style trusses can also make an attractive alternative to plainer styles for ornamental structures like gazebos and covered outdoor shelters.\\n1-4. Construct a Howe truss to provide unshakable support from below.\\nHowe trusses closely resemble the King Post and Fink styles, only with additional angled beams arranged around the central joist at regular intervals. They are often built onto the underside of the structure they're intended for.\\nThe internal angles in a Howe truss are repeated at regular intervals. Both sides of a standard Howe truss, for example, might consist of joists forming opposing 90 and 60-degree angles.\\nBecause of their complex configuration, Howe trusses tend to be difficult to plan and assemble, and are most often reserved very large load-bearing structures.\\nA Howe-style design will offer maximum reinforcement for multi-level structures, as well as those built from especially heavy materials.\\n2. Designing Your Truss\\n2-1. Size the bottom chord 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) longer than the floor.\\nStart by noting the exact length of the structure’s floor. Then, add 0.25 inches (0.64 cm). This will account for possible inconsistencies and ensure that the truss is a proper fit.\\nIf possible, use a tape measure to double-check the floor’s length rather than simply relying on the recorded measurements listed in the building plan.\\n2-2. Incorporate overhanging top chords to add extra visual flair.\\nOn some roof trusses, the 2 top chords extend down over the edges of the bottom chord, creating a built-in overhang. If you think you’d prefer an overhang-style truss, adjust the measurements for your top chords accordingly. Your top chords can protrude beyond the bottom chord anywhere from 1–3 feet (0.30–0.91 m).\\nOverhanging chords are more of a stylistic feature than a practical one, and shouldn’t affect the overall stability of the truss.\\n2-3. Cut plywood gusset plates to fasten together lightweight trusses.\\nGusset plates are used to secure the connections between the individual truss components. Fashion your own set of plywood gusset plates by cutting thick sheets of plywood to fit over each site where one joist meets another. This will include all 3 corners of the frame, as well as the top and bottom of each beam crisscrossing the center of the truss.\\nUse a circular saw or skill saw to cut your plywood to the right size and shape.\\nMaking your own plywood gusset plates will help you keep the overhead for your project low.\\n2-4. Use steel gusset plates to secure trusses for weight-bearing structures.\\nDepending on the scale of your project and the specific building codes in your area, you may have the choice to use galvanized steel gusset plates. While these won't be necessary for most projects, they can come in handy for holding together trusses designed for bridges, cathedral-style roofs, or other especially large structures.\\nYou can order steel gusset plates from companies that specialize in construction timber or steel-working supplies.\\nSolid steel gusset plates cost quite a bit more than plywood ones, so make sure they fit into the budget you've set for your project.\\n2-5. Create a detailed sketch of your truss design.\\nOnce you have all of your measurements worked out, commit your plans to a sheet of graphing paper. Draw each of the major lines and angles to scale, being sure to note their exact specifications out to one side. Alternatively, you can use an architectural design software to generate a diagram based on the specific measurements you assign.\\nIf you’re drafting up your plans by hand, use a ruler to make sure that your lines are straight and the internal angles of the truss are accurately represented.\\nYou can find many helpful digital design programs for free or cheap online.\\n2-6. Submit your building plans to your local licensing authority.\\nMost cities have agencies responsible for overseeing building codes and regulations. After completing the design for your wood truss, you’ll need to submit a copy to the licensing department for your region in order to have it approved for construction. \\nIf you’re not sure who the licensing authority for your area is, run a quick search for “construction licensing” plus the name of your city, state, or territory.\\nThe criteria used by your licensing department may differ depending on factors like zoning laws, geographical features, and weather patterns. For example, if you live in an area with heavy snowfall, your city will likely have strict requirements about the bearing strength of your new structure.\\nBuilding codes may not apply if you’re just constructing a truss for simple structures like a small tool shed.\\n3. Putting the Truss Together\\n3-1. Measure and mark your timber with a pencil.\\nBefore you begin sawing your raw materials, lay out your lumber on a flat surface and trace a line where you plan on making each cut. Precise measurements are critical if you want your truss to be sturdy and fit together properly.\\nRefer back to the plans you drew up to keep track of how long each piece of lumber needs to be.\\nUse a triangle square to verify the angles at the edges of the top and bottom chords.\\nTrusses for common structures like houses, carports, and gazebos are most often constructed using 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) wooden boards.\\n3-2. Cut your truss pieces to size using a jigsaw.\\nA jigsaw will allow you to make short crosscuts through thick pieces of wood with maximum efficiency. Set your lumber on a shop table or between 2 sawhorses and guide the saw smoothly across the measurement lines you drew earlier to achieve clean, precise cuts.\\nTo prevent the pieces from shifting, consider using a table clamp to hold them fast to your work surface.\\nAlways wear gloves and safety glasses to protect yourself from injury while operating a power saw.\\n3-3. Assemble your truss in the desired shape.\\nAfter cutting your lumber, gather up the individual pieces and begin fitting them together. Remember, you’ll need 2 top chords, 1 bottom chord, and at least 1 central joist for support.\\nStudy your plans closely to make sure you're piecing the internal joists together in the correct configuration for the style you've chosen.\\nKeep in mind that the angles formed by the internal joists will remain the same despite differences in the frame's height or width.\\nThis is a good opportunity to visually confirm that each component has been cut to the correct size. If you encounter any mistakes, you may need to start over with a fresh piece of lumber.\\n3-4. Use construction adhesive to hold the truss components together.\\nApply a generous amount of adhesive to the face of each piece where it will intersect with the next using a putty knife. Then, carefully return the piece to its place in the assembly. Press the 2 connecting pieces together for 30-40 seconds to ensure that the adhesive sticks firmly.\\nFor ease of application, look for glues that come in tubes similar to caulk guns.\\nTake your time to make sure everything is where it needs to be. With most adhesives, you’ll have a window of 10-15 minutes before the adhesive begins to set. This will allow you to reposition your components as needed.\\n3-5. Attach gusset plates at each connection site to fasten the finished truss.\\nApply a thin layer of construction adhesive to the backside of a plate. Then, flip it over and press it firmly into place over a joint between two truss beams. Insert construction screws every 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) through the holes in the face of the plate and use an electric drill drive the screws deep into the wood. Repeat this process at each remaining joint.\\nIf you're working with plywood gusset plates, you can drill your screws directly through the plates themselves.\\nGive the adhesive 1-2 minutes to bond before installing the screws. That way, the friction of the drill won’t cause the plates to slip out of place.\\nAllow the adhesive to set overnight. The following day, your truss will be ready to add on to the structure it’s intended to support.\\nTips\\nThere are dozens of different truss designs. Read up on the various types to learn more about their unique features and specifications.\\nIt's recommended that you buy 10-15% more lumber than you think you'll need to account for possible waste and give yourself a little leeway.\\nWarnings\\nThe point of a truss is to provide support, which means constructing one incorrectly could lead to structural defects or, worse, personal injury. If you're not confident in your ability to design and build a truss on your own, hire a qualified contractor to come in and make sure the job gets done right.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Trusses are commonly used to provide support for roofs, bridges, and other expansive structures. To put together a simple wooden truss, you'll fasten a number of pre-cut beams into a chosen configuration inside a sturdy triangular frame, which will help distribute the weight of the structure more evenly. Plan your project carefully using precise measurements and reinforce the finished truss with both gusset plates and construction adhesive to make sure it’s built to last.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Selecting the Right Type of Truss\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your structure to determine how big your truss needs to be.\", \"描述\": \"Trusses can be built in many different shapes and sizes to accommodate the dimensions of various structures. Before you can begin plotting the exact specifications of your truss, find the overall length and height of the structure being reinforced.\\nA truss for a gable roof on one side of your home, for example, might need to be 15 feet (4.6 m) long and 4–6 feet (1.2–1.8 m) tall.\\nThe dimensions of your structure will determine the angles formed by the truss’s top and bottom beams, or “chords.” On a relatively shallow roof, for instance, the upper and lower chords may meet at a 30-degree angle on each side.\\nIn some cases, building codes may dictate the size requirements of a truss for a certain type of structure. Be sure to consult your local building codes before you begin drawing up plans for your truss.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a simple king post truss to reinforce small, lightweight structures.\", \"描述\": \"A king post truss design features a single vertical joist that runs through the center of the triangular frame. This style is useful for framing structures that don’t require quite as much support as structures that bear more weight.\\nA king post truss may be all you need if you're looking to add some extra stability to a garden shed or gable roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a Fink truss to bolster a floor, roof, or deck.\", \"描述\": \"In a Fink truss, the internal joists are arranged in a “W” shape, ensuring even weight distribution from one end to the other. Fink trusses were originally invented for the purpose of beefing up bridges, but many contractors now use them to increase the strength of interior structures.\\nWhen fashioning a Fink truss, the middle of the \\\"W\\\" will be at the center line of the triangle. Similarly, the points formed by the internal joists will connect at the midpoints on either side of the center line.\\nDue to the symmetrical simplicity of their design, Fink-style trusses can also make an attractive alternative to plainer styles for ornamental structures like gazebos and covered outdoor shelters.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Construct a Howe truss to provide unshakable support from below.\", \"描述\": \"Howe trusses closely resemble the King Post and Fink styles, only with additional angled beams arranged around the central joist at regular intervals. They are often built onto the underside of the structure they're intended for.\\nThe internal angles in a Howe truss are repeated at regular intervals. Both sides of a standard Howe truss, for example, might consist of joists forming opposing 90 and 60-degree angles.\\nBecause of their complex configuration, Howe trusses tend to be difficult to plan and assemble, and are most often reserved very large load-bearing structures.\\nA Howe-style design will offer maximum reinforcement for multi-level structures, as well as those built from especially heavy materials.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Designing Your Truss\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Size the bottom chord 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) longer than the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Start by noting the exact length of the structure’s floor. Then, add 0.25 inches (0.64 cm). This will account for possible inconsistencies and ensure that the truss is a proper fit.\\nIf possible, use a tape measure to double-check the floor’s length rather than simply relying on the recorded measurements listed in the building plan.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Incorporate overhanging top chords to add extra visual flair.\", \"描述\": \"On some roof trusses, the 2 top chords extend down over the edges of the bottom chord, creating a built-in overhang. If you think you’d prefer an overhang-style truss, adjust the measurements for your top chords accordingly. Your top chords can protrude beyond the bottom chord anywhere from 1–3 feet (0.30–0.91 m).\\nOverhanging chords are more of a stylistic feature than a practical one, and shouldn’t affect the overall stability of the truss.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut plywood gusset plates to fasten together lightweight trusses.\", \"描述\": \"Gusset plates are used to secure the connections between the individual truss components. Fashion your own set of plywood gusset plates by cutting thick sheets of plywood to fit over each site where one joist meets another. This will include all 3 corners of the frame, as well as the top and bottom of each beam crisscrossing the center of the truss.\\nUse a circular saw or skill saw to cut your plywood to the right size and shape.\\nMaking your own plywood gusset plates will help you keep the overhead for your project low.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use steel gusset plates to secure trusses for weight-bearing structures.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the scale of your project and the specific building codes in your area, you may have the choice to use galvanized steel gusset plates. While these won't be necessary for most projects, they can come in handy for holding together trusses designed for bridges, cathedral-style roofs, or other especially large structures.\\nYou can order steel gusset plates from companies that specialize in construction timber or steel-working supplies.\\nSolid steel gusset plates cost quite a bit more than plywood ones, so make sure they fit into the budget you've set for your project.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create a detailed sketch of your truss design.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have all of your measurements worked out, commit your plans to a sheet of graphing paper. Draw each of the major lines and angles to scale, being sure to note their exact specifications out to one side. Alternatively, you can use an architectural design software to generate a diagram based on the specific measurements you assign.\\nIf you’re drafting up your plans by hand, use a ruler to make sure that your lines are straight and the internal angles of the truss are accurately represented.\\nYou can find many helpful digital design programs for free or cheap online.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Submit your building plans to your local licensing authority.\", \"描述\": \"Most cities have agencies responsible for overseeing building codes and regulations. After completing the design for your wood truss, you’ll need to submit a copy to the licensing department for your region in order to have it approved for construction. \\nIf you’re not sure who the licensing authority for your area is, run a quick search for “construction licensing” plus the name of your city, state, or territory.\\nThe criteria used by your licensing department may differ depending on factors like zoning laws, geographical features, and weather patterns. For example, if you live in an area with heavy snowfall, your city will likely have strict requirements about the bearing strength of your new structure.\\nBuilding codes may not apply if you’re just constructing a truss for simple structures like a small tool shed.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Putting the Truss Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and mark your timber with a pencil.\", \"描述\": \"Before you begin sawing your raw materials, lay out your lumber on a flat surface and trace a line where you plan on making each cut. Precise measurements are critical if you want your truss to be sturdy and fit together properly.\\nRefer back to the plans you drew up to keep track of how long each piece of lumber needs to be.\\nUse a triangle square to verify the angles at the edges of the top and bottom chords.\\nTrusses for common structures like houses, carports, and gazebos are most often constructed using 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) wooden boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your truss pieces to size using a jigsaw.\", \"描述\": \"A jigsaw will allow you to make short crosscuts through thick pieces of wood with maximum efficiency. Set your lumber on a shop table or between 2 sawhorses and guide the saw smoothly across the measurement lines you drew earlier to achieve clean, precise cuts.\\nTo prevent the pieces from shifting, consider using a table clamp to hold them fast to your work surface.\\nAlways wear gloves and safety glasses to protect yourself from injury while operating a power saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assemble your truss in the desired shape.\", \"描述\": \"After cutting your lumber, gather up the individual pieces and begin fitting them together. Remember, you’ll need 2 top chords, 1 bottom chord, and at least 1 central joist for support.\\nStudy your plans closely to make sure you're piecing the internal joists together in the correct configuration for the style you've chosen.\\nKeep in mind that the angles formed by the internal joists will remain the same despite differences in the frame's height or width.\\nThis is a good opportunity to visually confirm that each component has been cut to the correct size. If you encounter any mistakes, you may need to start over with a fresh piece of lumber.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use construction adhesive to hold the truss components together.\", \"描述\": \"Apply a generous amount of adhesive to the face of each piece where it will intersect with the next using a putty knife. Then, carefully return the piece to its place in the assembly. Press the 2 connecting pieces together for 30-40 seconds to ensure that the adhesive sticks firmly.\\nFor ease of application, look for glues that come in tubes similar to caulk guns.\\nTake your time to make sure everything is where it needs to be. With most adhesives, you’ll have a window of 10-15 minutes before the adhesive begins to set. This will allow you to reposition your components as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach gusset plates at each connection site to fasten the finished truss.\", \"描述\": \"Apply a thin layer of construction adhesive to the backside of a plate. Then, flip it over and press it firmly into place over a joint between two truss beams. Insert construction screws every 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) through the holes in the face of the plate and use an electric drill drive the screws deep into the wood. Repeat this process at each remaining joint.\\nIf you're working with plywood gusset plates, you can drill your screws directly through the plates themselves.\\nGive the adhesive 1-2 minutes to bond before installing the screws. That way, the friction of the drill won’t cause the plates to slip out of place.\\nAllow the adhesive to set overnight. The following day, your truss will be ready to add on to the structure it’s intended to support.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"There are dozens of different truss designs. Read up on the various types to learn more about their unique features and specifications.\\n\", \"It's recommended that you buy 10-15% more lumber than you think you'll need to account for possible waste and give yourself a little leeway.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"The point of a truss is to provide support, which means constructing one incorrectly could lead to structural defects or, worse, personal injury. If you're not confident in your ability to design and build a truss on your own, hire a qualified contractor to come in and make sure the job gets done right.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,541 |
How to Build a Siren
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1. Building the Siren's Spinning Cylinder
1-1. Understand how a siren works.
The heart of a mechanical siren is a spinning cylinder, or rotor, inside a stationary object, or stator. Both the rotor and the stator have holes cut at regular intervals, so air is alternately blocked and forced through. This results in a wave of pressure through the air, or in other words, a sound wave. Because this design involves heavy materials moving at high speeds, a homemade siren can be difficult to make and potentially dangerous to operate. Starting with a siren rotor no more than 6 inches (15 centimeters) across is recommended. This can still be quite loud if attached to a motor.
Alternatively, you can purchase a kit or download a plan for building an electronic siren. These use circuitry to send out a sound wave instead of mechanical air flow, and building them does not require any carpentry.
While these instructions assumes you are using wood, it is possible to build a small siren out of almost any material. Try using thick cardboard, or a wide, shallow cookie tin.
1-2. Cut out two or three plywood circles.
To make a simple, one-pitch siren, you'll only need two circles. If you would like a siren that has the distinct, two-tone sound of an air raid siren, cut out three circles instead. Trace each circle to the same size using a compass or circular object, then cut them out using a jigsaw or router. Optionally, for greater accuracy, attach a circle-cutting jig to your jigsaw before cutting.
Circles no more than 6 in. (15 cm) across are recommended for your first siren. A larger circle can produce a louder noise, but this will require a more powerful motor and more careful building to prevent the siren from breaking during use.
Eye protection is recommended while handling high-speed saws.
1-3. Make holes in the center of the plywood circles.
The first plywood circle will need a hole for attaching the shaft of a motor, in order to set it spinning. Drill this precisely at the center to keep it balanced, and choose a size that will tightly fit the shaft so it does not slip off. The second (and third) plywood circle should have a much larger circle removed using a jigsaw, 1/3 or 1/2 the radius of the full circle. This turns the second (and third) plywood circle into a disc shape.
1-4. Trace out a "shark fin" shape.
Trace one of your circles onto a new piece of plywood. On this trace, use a flexible tape measure to measure 1/12 of the circle's circumference and mark it off at either end. Draw a concave line from one end and a convex one from the other, tapering toward each other to meet at a point, which will just touch the inside edge of your plywood discs. This should look similar to the stereotypical shape of a shark's dorsal fin, pointing toward the circle's center.
1-5. Cut out six shark fin shapes out of wood.
Cut out your "shark fin" piece of plywood, and use it to trace the same shape onto a length of 2 x 4 (38 x 89 mm), six times. Use your jigsaw or router to cut out these shapes.
If making a dual-tone siren with three plywood circles,
1-6. Glue the shark fins onto the first plywood circle.
Arrange the "shark fins" around the circumference of the plywood circle, so their bases are even with the circle's edge, and the tips tapers in pointing toward the center. Space these evenly, so you can see curved channels between them where the air will be pushed through from the center outward. Use a strong carpenter's glue to attach these to the surface, and clamp the plywood and the "shark fins" firmly together while the glue dries.
Check the label of your adhesive to find out how long it takes to dry.
If, after the glue has dried, you can pull off or move the wooden fins, repeat with a stronger glue or a stronger clamp.
1-7. Complete the rotor.
Glue the plywood disc on top of the shark fins, and clamp until dry. If you are building a two-tone siren, cut out more shark fin shapes of a different size to form the second cylinder. For instance, trace shark fins with a base covering 1/20 of the circle's edge, and cut out 10 of them to glue on top of the plywood disc. Glue the last plywood disc on top of these.
1-8. Balance the rotor.
Find a marble or other perfectly round object, and fit it into the small hole on the plywood circle, where the shaft will eventually go. Place the entire rotor on a flat surface, resting on top of this marble, and attempt to balance it. When the rotor falls over onto one side, mark which side that is and remove some weight from that side by drilling holes through the plywood circle, near the circumference, or through the ends of the shark fin shapes. Repeat until the rotor is as balanced as possible, to minimize stress on the siren during operation.
2. Building the Siren's Outer Portion
2-1. Cut a hole in a plywood board, larger than the cylinder.
The cylinder, or rotor, that you built will blow air if spun, but won't yet make any sound. For that, you'll need a stationary container, or stator, around the cylinder. Start with a piece of plywood, and cut a hole just a bit larger than the cylinder you'll be putting through it.
Alternatively, if you can find a sturdy wastebasket of the correct size, cut a hole in the base of it. This will also provide a horn to amplify the sound.
2-2. Attach wooden pieces, spaced around the hole.
Cut out wooden pieces with the same outer circumference as the hole you cut, and the same thickness as the "shark fins" you used in the cylinder. The goal is to end up with an outer rim with holes that will line up exactly with the cylinder's. Glue these around the hole and clamp until dry.
2-3. Repeat if making a dual-tone siren.
If your cylinder has two spinning levels of "shark fins," you'll need a second wooden rim protruding beyond the first, where the second level of your cylinder will spin. This rim, similar to the first, will have spaces that line up exactly with the second level of the cylinder as it spins.
3. Finishing the Siren
3-1. Mount the cylinder onto a motor.
Fit the small hole at one end of the cylinder onto a motor shaft. This fit should be as secure as possible, so replace the motor shaft with one of a different size if necessary. A small siren may function on a hand-cranked motor, but larger motors will be required for heavy sirens.
put your hand or any object on the cylinder while it is attached to a motor, even while it is not spinning.
3-2. Mount the motor in place.
The larger the siren, and the more powerful the motor, the more effort you'll need to spend keeping it all in place. Consider constructing a sturdy lumber platform to hold a large motor in place. For hand-cranked motors, a small stand to keep the cylinder off the ground may be all that is required.
3-3. Test the cylinder.
Standing well behind the siren, turn on the motor (or start cranking) and watch what happens. Be ready to turn it off again immediately if necessary. It's better to discover a broken piece or other problem now, before you attach the rest of the siren. Turn the motor off and let the cylinder wind down on its own before you continue.
3-4. Mount the stationary outer portion.
Carefully place the outer plywood board with the hole cut through it around the cylinder. Bolt it tightly in place to the motor's platform, so the wooden rim around the hole is near the cylinder, but in no danger of colliding with it.
3-5. Add an amplifying horn (optional).
Your siren is already functional, and you will likely want to test it before you decide to make it louder. Any horn- or trumpet-shaped object, flaring outward, can be used to amplify the sound. Attach the base of this object onto the front of the wooden rim, not blocking the holes.
You may need to expand the platform in back to balance out the weight of the horn.
Tips
You can use the same principles to make a quieter, temporary siren. Cut out a thick, cardboard disc, cut holes spaced around the disc, to form a concentric circle. Poke the center of this disc onto the shaft of a small, electric motor, and start it spinning. Blow a strong fan or the blowing air hose of a vacuum cleaner onto the disc to make a noise.
Warnings
If this is being used in a car, don't sound it while in motion. The authorities don't like a siren on a non-official vehicle. Using a siren while in motion is typically a serious offence.
If you have built an outdoor siren, don't sound it unless it's test day in your area, or there is an actual emergency.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:04",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Siren's Spinning Cylinder\\n1-1. Understand how a siren works.\\nThe heart of a mechanical siren is a spinning cylinder, or rotor, inside a stationary object, or stator. Both the rotor and the stator have holes cut at regular intervals, so air is alternately blocked and forced through. This results in a wave of pressure through the air, or in other words, a sound wave. Because this design involves heavy materials moving at high speeds, a homemade siren can be difficult to make and potentially dangerous to operate. Starting with a siren rotor no more than 6 inches (15 centimeters) across is recommended. This can still be quite loud if attached to a motor.\\nAlternatively, you can purchase a kit or download a plan for building an electronic siren. These use circuitry to send out a sound wave instead of mechanical air flow, and building them does not require any carpentry.\\nWhile these instructions assumes you are using wood, it is possible to build a small siren out of almost any material. Try using thick cardboard, or a wide, shallow cookie tin.\\n1-2. Cut out two or three plywood circles.\\nTo make a simple, one-pitch siren, you'll only need two circles. If you would like a siren that has the distinct, two-tone sound of an air raid siren, cut out three circles instead. Trace each circle to the same size using a compass or circular object, then cut them out using a jigsaw or router. Optionally, for greater accuracy, attach a circle-cutting jig to your jigsaw before cutting.\\nCircles no more than 6 in. (15 cm) across are recommended for your first siren. A larger circle can produce a louder noise, but this will require a more powerful motor and more careful building to prevent the siren from breaking during use.\\nEye protection is recommended while handling high-speed saws.\\n1-3. Make holes in the center of the plywood circles.\\nThe first plywood circle will need a hole for attaching the shaft of a motor, in order to set it spinning. Drill this precisely at the center to keep it balanced, and choose a size that will tightly fit the shaft so it does not slip off. The second (and third) plywood circle should have a much larger circle removed using a jigsaw, 1/3 or 1/2 the radius of the full circle. This turns the second (and third) plywood circle into a disc shape.\\n1-4. Trace out a \\\"shark fin\\\" shape.\\nTrace one of your circles onto a new piece of plywood. On this trace, use a flexible tape measure to measure 1/12 of the circle's circumference and mark it off at either end. Draw a concave line from one end and a convex one from the other, tapering toward each other to meet at a point, which will just touch the inside edge of your plywood discs. This should look similar to the stereotypical shape of a shark's dorsal fin, pointing toward the circle's center.\\n1-5. Cut out six shark fin shapes out of wood.\\nCut out your \\\"shark fin\\\" piece of plywood, and use it to trace the same shape onto a length of 2 x 4 (38 x 89 mm), six times. Use your jigsaw or router to cut out these shapes.\\nIf making a dual-tone siren with three plywood circles,\\n1-6. Glue the shark fins onto the first plywood circle.\\nArrange the \\\"shark fins\\\" around the circumference of the plywood circle, so their bases are even with the circle's edge, and the tips tapers in pointing toward the center. Space these evenly, so you can see curved channels between them where the air will be pushed through from the center outward. Use a strong carpenter's glue to attach these to the surface, and clamp the plywood and the \\\"shark fins\\\" firmly together while the glue dries.\\nCheck the label of your adhesive to find out how long it takes to dry.\\nIf, after the glue has dried, you can pull off or move the wooden fins, repeat with a stronger glue or a stronger clamp.\\n1-7. Complete the rotor.\\nGlue the plywood disc on top of the shark fins, and clamp until dry. If you are building a two-tone siren, cut out more shark fin shapes of a different size to form the second cylinder. For instance, trace shark fins with a base covering 1/20 of the circle's edge, and cut out 10 of them to glue on top of the plywood disc. Glue the last plywood disc on top of these.\\n1-8. Balance the rotor.\\nFind a marble or other perfectly round object, and fit it into the small hole on the plywood circle, where the shaft will eventually go. Place the entire rotor on a flat surface, resting on top of this marble, and attempt to balance it. When the rotor falls over onto one side, mark which side that is and remove some weight from that side by drilling holes through the plywood circle, near the circumference, or through the ends of the shark fin shapes. Repeat until the rotor is as balanced as possible, to minimize stress on the siren during operation.\\n2. Building the Siren's Outer Portion\\n2-1. Cut a hole in a plywood board, larger than the cylinder.\\nThe cylinder, or rotor, that you built will blow air if spun, but won't yet make any sound. For that, you'll need a stationary container, or stator, around the cylinder. Start with a piece of plywood, and cut a hole just a bit larger than the cylinder you'll be putting through it.\\nAlternatively, if you can find a sturdy wastebasket of the correct size, cut a hole in the base of it. This will also provide a horn to amplify the sound.\\n2-2. Attach wooden pieces, spaced around the hole.\\nCut out wooden pieces with the same outer circumference as the hole you cut, and the same thickness as the \\\"shark fins\\\" you used in the cylinder. The goal is to end up with an outer rim with holes that will line up exactly with the cylinder's. Glue these around the hole and clamp until dry.\\n2-3. Repeat if making a dual-tone siren.\\nIf your cylinder has two spinning levels of \\\"shark fins,\\\" you'll need a second wooden rim protruding beyond the first, where the second level of your cylinder will spin. This rim, similar to the first, will have spaces that line up exactly with the second level of the cylinder as it spins.\\n3. Finishing the Siren\\n3-1. Mount the cylinder onto a motor.\\nFit the small hole at one end of the cylinder onto a motor shaft. This fit should be as secure as possible, so replace the motor shaft with one of a different size if necessary. A small siren may function on a hand-cranked motor, but larger motors will be required for heavy sirens.\\n put your hand or any object on the cylinder while it is attached to a motor, even while it is not spinning.\\n3-2. Mount the motor in place.\\nThe larger the siren, and the more powerful the motor, the more effort you'll need to spend keeping it all in place. Consider constructing a sturdy lumber platform to hold a large motor in place. For hand-cranked motors, a small stand to keep the cylinder off the ground may be all that is required.\\n3-3. Test the cylinder.\\nStanding well behind the siren, turn on the motor (or start cranking) and watch what happens. Be ready to turn it off again immediately if necessary. It's better to discover a broken piece or other problem now, before you attach the rest of the siren. Turn the motor off and let the cylinder wind down on its own before you continue.\\n3-4. Mount the stationary outer portion.\\nCarefully place the outer plywood board with the hole cut through it around the cylinder. Bolt it tightly in place to the motor's platform, so the wooden rim around the hole is near the cylinder, but in no danger of colliding with it.\\n3-5. Add an amplifying horn (optional).\\nYour siren is already functional, and you will likely want to test it before you decide to make it louder. Any horn- or trumpet-shaped object, flaring outward, can be used to amplify the sound. Attach the base of this object onto the front of the wooden rim, not blocking the holes.\\nYou may need to expand the platform in back to balance out the weight of the horn.\\nTips\\nYou can use the same principles to make a quieter, temporary siren. Cut out a thick, cardboard disc, cut holes spaced around the disc, to form a concentric circle. Poke the center of this disc onto the shaft of a small, electric motor, and start it spinning. Blow a strong fan or the blowing air hose of a vacuum cleaner onto the disc to make a noise.\\nWarnings\\nIf this is being used in a car, don't sound it while in motion. The authorities don't like a siren on a non-official vehicle. Using a siren while in motion is typically a serious offence.\\nIf you have built an outdoor siren, don't sound it unless it's test day in your area, or there is an actual emergency.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The distinct rising and falling sound of an air raid siren is produced by a relatively simple machine. While the flatter pitch of most modern emergency vehicle sirens requires electronic circuitry to reproduce, the mechanical siren can be made with basic carpentry tools. Start small, since larger sirens require sturdier materials and precise building to function without breaking. Even a small siren will still probably end up loud enough, in your neighbor's opinion.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Siren's Spinning Cylinder\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand how a siren works.\", \"描述\": \"The heart of a mechanical siren is a spinning cylinder, or rotor, inside a stationary object, or stator. Both the rotor and the stator have holes cut at regular intervals, so air is alternately blocked and forced through. This results in a wave of pressure through the air, or in other words, a sound wave. Because this design involves heavy materials moving at high speeds, a homemade siren can be difficult to make and potentially dangerous to operate. Starting with a siren rotor no more than 6 inches (15 centimeters) across is recommended. This can still be quite loud if attached to a motor.\\nAlternatively, you can purchase a kit or download a plan for building an electronic siren. These use circuitry to send out a sound wave instead of mechanical air flow, and building them does not require any carpentry.\\nWhile these instructions assumes you are using wood, it is possible to build a small siren out of almost any material. Try using thick cardboard, or a wide, shallow cookie tin.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut out two or three plywood circles.\", \"描述\": \"To make a simple, one-pitch siren, you'll only need two circles. If you would like a siren that has the distinct, two-tone sound of an air raid siren, cut out three circles instead. Trace each circle to the same size using a compass or circular object, then cut them out using a jigsaw or router. Optionally, for greater accuracy, attach a circle-cutting jig to your jigsaw before cutting.\\nCircles no more than 6 in. (15 cm) across are recommended for your first siren. A larger circle can produce a louder noise, but this will require a more powerful motor and more careful building to prevent the siren from breaking during use.\\nEye protection is recommended while handling high-speed saws.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make holes in the center of the plywood circles.\", \"描述\": \"The first plywood circle will need a hole for attaching the shaft of a motor, in order to set it spinning. Drill this precisely at the center to keep it balanced, and choose a size that will tightly fit the shaft so it does not slip off. The second (and third) plywood circle should have a much larger circle removed using a jigsaw, 1/3 or 1/2 the radius of the full circle. This turns the second (and third) plywood circle into a disc shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Trace out a \\\"shark fin\\\" shape.\", \"描述\": \"Trace one of your circles onto a new piece of plywood. On this trace, use a flexible tape measure to measure 1/12 of the circle's circumference and mark it off at either end. Draw a concave line from one end and a convex one from the other, tapering toward each other to meet at a point, which will just touch the inside edge of your plywood discs. This should look similar to the stereotypical shape of a shark's dorsal fin, pointing toward the circle's center.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut out six shark fin shapes out of wood.\", \"描述\": \"Cut out your \\\"shark fin\\\" piece of plywood, and use it to trace the same shape onto a length of 2 x 4 (38 x 89 mm), six times. Use your jigsaw or router to cut out these shapes.\\nIf making a dual-tone siren with three plywood circles,\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Glue the shark fins onto the first plywood circle.\", \"描述\": \"Arrange the \\\"shark fins\\\" around the circumference of the plywood circle, so their bases are even with the circle's edge, and the tips tapers in pointing toward the center. Space these evenly, so you can see curved channels between them where the air will be pushed through from the center outward. Use a strong carpenter's glue to attach these to the surface, and clamp the plywood and the \\\"shark fins\\\" firmly together while the glue dries.\\nCheck the label of your adhesive to find out how long it takes to dry.\\nIf, after the glue has dried, you can pull off or move the wooden fins, repeat with a stronger glue or a stronger clamp.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Complete the rotor.\", \"描述\": \"Glue the plywood disc on top of the shark fins, and clamp until dry. If you are building a two-tone siren, cut out more shark fin shapes of a different size to form the second cylinder. For instance, trace shark fins with a base covering 1/20 of the circle's edge, and cut out 10 of them to glue on top of the plywood disc. Glue the last plywood disc on top of these.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Balance the rotor.\", \"描述\": \"Find a marble or other perfectly round object, and fit it into the small hole on the plywood circle, where the shaft will eventually go. Place the entire rotor on a flat surface, resting on top of this marble, and attempt to balance it. When the rotor falls over onto one side, mark which side that is and remove some weight from that side by drilling holes through the plywood circle, near the circumference, or through the ends of the shark fin shapes. Repeat until the rotor is as balanced as possible, to minimize stress on the siren during operation.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Siren's Outer Portion\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut a hole in a plywood board, larger than the cylinder.\", \"描述\": \"The cylinder, or rotor, that you built will blow air if spun, but won't yet make any sound. For that, you'll need a stationary container, or stator, around the cylinder. Start with a piece of plywood, and cut a hole just a bit larger than the cylinder you'll be putting through it.\\nAlternatively, if you can find a sturdy wastebasket of the correct size, cut a hole in the base of it. This will also provide a horn to amplify the sound.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach wooden pieces, spaced around the hole.\", \"描述\": \"Cut out wooden pieces with the same outer circumference as the hole you cut, and the same thickness as the \\\"shark fins\\\" you used in the cylinder. The goal is to end up with an outer rim with holes that will line up exactly with the cylinder's. Glue these around the hole and clamp until dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Repeat if making a dual-tone siren.\", \"描述\": \"If your cylinder has two spinning levels of \\\"shark fins,\\\" you'll need a second wooden rim protruding beyond the first, where the second level of your cylinder will spin. This rim, similar to the first, will have spaces that line up exactly with the second level of the cylinder as it spins.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Siren\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mount the cylinder onto a motor.\", \"描述\": \"Fit the small hole at one end of the cylinder onto a motor shaft. This fit should be as secure as possible, so replace the motor shaft with one of a different size if necessary. A small siren may function on a hand-cranked motor, but larger motors will be required for heavy sirens.\\n put your hand or any object on the cylinder while it is attached to a motor, even while it is not spinning.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mount the motor in place.\", \"描述\": \"The larger the siren, and the more powerful the motor, the more effort you'll need to spend keeping it all in place. Consider constructing a sturdy lumber platform to hold a large motor in place. For hand-cranked motors, a small stand to keep the cylinder off the ground may be all that is required.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Test the cylinder.\", \"描述\": \"Standing well behind the siren, turn on the motor (or start cranking) and watch what happens. Be ready to turn it off again immediately if necessary. It's better to discover a broken piece or other problem now, before you attach the rest of the siren. Turn the motor off and let the cylinder wind down on its own before you continue.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mount the stationary outer portion.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully place the outer plywood board with the hole cut through it around the cylinder. Bolt it tightly in place to the motor's platform, so the wooden rim around the hole is near the cylinder, but in no danger of colliding with it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add an amplifying horn (optional).\", \"描述\": \"Your siren is already functional, and you will likely want to test it before you decide to make it louder. Any horn- or trumpet-shaped object, flaring outward, can be used to amplify the sound. Attach the base of this object onto the front of the wooden rim, not blocking the holes.\\nYou may need to expand the platform in back to balance out the weight of the horn.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can use the same principles to make a quieter, temporary siren. Cut out a thick, cardboard disc, cut holes spaced around the disc, to form a concentric circle. Poke the center of this disc onto the shaft of a small, electric motor, and start it spinning. Blow a strong fan or the blowing air hose of a vacuum cleaner onto the disc to make a noise.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If this is being used in a car, don't sound it while in motion. The authorities don't like a siren on a non-official vehicle. Using a siren while in motion is typically a serious offence.\\n\", \"If you have built an outdoor siren, don't sound it unless it's test day in your area, or there is an actual emergency.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,542 |
How to Build a Skateboard
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1. Assembling Your Parts and Tools
1-1. Find a suitable workspace.
Use a large, flat workspace where you can assemble your skateboard. You will be dealing with a lot of small parts like nuts, bolts, and washers.
A large work table or open space on the floor works well. Just make sure that you have enough room to lay out all your parts and tools so you can easily find what you need.
Keep your hardware in the original boxes or packaging until you need a particular piece to prevent losing anything.
If you don't want to build your own board from absolute scratch, try buying a blank board from a local shop you can then implement your own design on.
1-2. Assemble the proper tools.
You can use a regular set of tools, including a screwdriver, socket wrench, and Allen wrench/hex key. The easiest method is to use a multitool made for skateboards which include a variable size socket wrench, screwdriver, ratchet system, and Allen wrench.
You will also need a razor blade to cut your grip tape, and a file.
Some skateboard tools come with a razor and a file. If you don’t have one that does, use a straight edge razor or box cutter, and a metal file or sandpaper.
Altogether, the deck will probably cost around $10, but the price of all the materials for the skateboard will be more around $100.
1-3. Get your deck and grip tape.
The deck is the curved wood (sometimes plastic or fiberglass) part of your board that you stand on. The grip tape is the black/gray (sometimes other colored) material that goes on top of your deck, to help you maneuver your board without slipping.
There are many brands and types of both decks and grip tapes. Some decks come with the grip tape already applied, if your deck doesn’t you will have to apply it yourself.
Decks come in different widths and lengths. Most street skate decks are around 7.5” while park decks are around 8.5”. Decide if you plan on using your board more on the street or in a park. Then consider your stature. Shorter skaters with smaller feet don’t need as wide of a deck, while taller skaters could benefit from the extra room.
Some grip tapes are less grippy than others. Grip tape is like sandpaper and made of different grains. If you are new to skating, you may want a medium grip and coarseness so that your feet can move easily without slipping.
1-4. Get your trucks, wheels, and bearings.
Like decks and grip tape, you have plenty of options when it comes to your trucks, wheels, and bearings. The size, width, and height of these components will differ for everyone’s preferences.
A good rule of thumb for trucks is to get ones that fit your board size. You don’t want trucks that are too wide for your board, or vice versa.
Wheels are typically made of polyurethane that allow you to grip, slide, and move fast. There are different options for the hardness of the wheel as well as the size. Cruising wheels, like the ones for longboards, are the biggest and softest. Small, harder wheels are better for street skating and tricks at the park as they allow for sliding. Then there are wheels that fit in between for versatile skating. Wheel sizes typically range between 49-75mm. Street wheels are typically around 50-55mm. Vert wheels are closer to 55-60mm, and longboard wheels are about 64-75mm.
Inside each wheel is a groove where the bearings go. The bearings allow the wheels to spin around the metal axle, which is fixed on a truck. Different bearings will also affect how fast and far you can go. The most common bearing size is the “608”. These bearings fit most wheels as the industry standard. Bearings come in steel and ceramic options. Ceramic bearings typically improve the performance of your board and movement but are more expensive. If you’re new to skateboarding, there are plenty of steel bearings that will be more than sufficient.
Note that trucks are often sold in singles. If you are purchasing trucks online, make sure you are getting a pair.
2. Putting the Grip Tape on Your Deck
2-1. Lay your deck down on a flat surface.
Putting grip tape on your deck isn’t very hard, but can take some practice to get it looking great. Start with your deck laying on a flat surface, right-side up.
The nose and tail of your board should be pointing up with the flat part of your board resting on the surface.
Your board may not lay completely flat due to its design.
A good type of wood for your skateboard is hard Maple, because it's thin and durable.
2-2. Remove the backing of the grip tape.
Your grip tape will come in a rectangular sheet that is longer and wider than your board. Lay it over the nose and tail of your board before peeling to make sure it covers the whole board. Then, peel off the back portion revealing the adhesive side.
Be careful to touch as little of the grip tape as possible once you’ve peeled the paper away so you don’t accidentally get the tape stuck to anything and ruin it.
Peel all of the back paper off at once.
2-3. Place your grip tape down on your deck.
Pinching the-the ends of tape between your forefinger and thumb, pull the tape taught. Find the nose and tail of your board with your middle fingers. You won’t be able to see the ends with the tape hovering over. Then, find the edge of your board and line the length of the grip tape along it so you can lay the tape down straight.
2-4. Lay the tape down starting at the center of both the nose and tip, letting the tape fall naturally onto the top of your deck.
Once you have the tape placed on the top of the deck, take your palms and smooth out the grip tape. Make sure to press down hard and remove any air bubbles. Start in the middle of your board and move outwards towards the ends.
It’s normal to have excess grip tape around your deck. Because your tape is a rectangle, and your board is more of an oval, you’ll have to remove the extra tape.
2-5. Take your file and place it on the edge of your board, once your grip tape is laid down.
This will create an outline of the deck under the grip tape.
If you don’t have a file, use the edge of your Allen wrench.
2-6. Cut off excess tape.
Grab a straight razor or box cutter to cut away any extra grip tape. Start in the center of your deck and cut a small incision that’s perpendicular to your board. This incision will make it easier to cut away extra grip tape. Then cut around the entire circumference of your deck.
The easiest way to get a smooth cut is to angle the razor slightly toward the top edge of the board, hold the outer portion of the tape and slide the razor toward you.
Be very careful when doing this as the razor is very sharp and facing you.
Take your time and move slowly.
2-7. Sand the grip tape edges.
Take a portion of the tape that you cut away and fold it over on itself so the sticky part is on the inside. Then, like with sandpaper, run the tape around the edges to sand the edge of the tape down.
Sanding your grip tape helps to prevent it from peeling up.
3. Attaching the Trucks and Wheels
3-1. Insert your screws.
Take your screwdriver or Allen wrench and punch holes through your grip tape. Hold your deck upright and locate the holes on the bottom of your board. Take your screwdriver and punch holes so that you can see where to place your screws. Then, insert your screws down through the top of your board.
Some sets of trucks come with the proper size screws to attach the trucks to the board. Most of the time, however, you will have to purchase screws and nuts separately. Some sets will have two screws which are a different color. Use these screws to differentiate between the tip and tail of your board.
When punching holes, keep the grip tape in place by holding it down with two fingers around the the hole.
3-2. Attach the trucks.
Now place the trucks onto your board. Hold the screws in place with one hand and align your trucks. The trucks attach to your deck at the baseplate. The baseplate is the flat square portion of your truck that has four holes for the screws. If placed correctly, the hanger, the “T” shaped part of your trucks will be facing down.
Take the nut that came with your screw and screw it on over the baseplate with your hand until you can’t tighten it anymore. Then use your socket wrench to tighten it further. Once your trucks are attached, hold the wrench in place over the bolt with one hand, and tighten the screws further with a screwdriver from the other side.
Make sure your trucks are facing outward. The front of your trucks is the flat part of the hanger. It usually has the logo of the brand stamped on it. You can also tell which way is forward by the bushings. The bushings are the colored rubber parts under the kingpin, the top nut of your trucks.
Both trucks should be facing outward. The flat sides should be facing away from each other with the bushing facing toward each other.
If your trucks don’t come with hardware, you can buy hardware packs specifically designed for skate trucks.
The heads of your screws should be flush with the grip tape when you are done, and you shouldn’t be able to jiggle the trucks at all.
3-3. Insert your bearings.
Your bearings and wheels go on together. Remove the nut and washer from the axle of your truck first. Then grab a bearing. You’ll see a flat side and a ridged side on your bearings. You want the flat side facing out. Put one bearing on the axle, flat side facing up. Take your wheel and press it down over your bearing until you feel the bearing slide into the center of your wheel. Remove the wheel from your axle and slide a second bearing on. Repeat the process, flipping the wheel over.
Place your board on your flat surface and stand the board on its edge for leverage.
When putting the second bearing on, face your wheel out, with the graphics side exposed. This isn’t necessary, and some wheels may have graphics on both sides.
If you have a bearing press, you can attach the bearings to the wheels without using your trucks.
3-4. Attach your wheels.
Place your washer down on top of your bearing, then add the nut. Screw the nut down as far as you can with your hands then grab your skate tool or wrench and continue to tighten the nut. If you have new wheels and bearings, tighten the nut down as far as you can. This will push the bearings down further into your wheel securing the bearing in place. Once everything is tightened all the way, loosen the nut a bit so the wheel can actually spin.
Loosen the nut a few turns and spin your wheel, making sure that it can spin sufficiently.
Grab the wheel with your fingers and pull on it. You should be able to feel and see it move or jiggle slightly.
3-5. Make sure everything is tightened and tuned.
With everything in place, place your board on the ground stand on it. Rock back and forth slightly and even skate around a bit. Test the tightness of your trucks and see how well the wheels spin while riding.
If your trucks are too loose and the board feels wobbly, tighten each one. Grab your skate tool and rotate the nut on the kingpin clockwise about half a turn for each truck.
If your trucks are too tight and you have trouble turning or carving, loosen each one. Turn the nut of your kingpin counterclockwise.
Jiggle your trucks again to make sure each one is screwed in tightly to the deck.
Adjust the tightness of your wheels. If you aren’t rolling as well as you should or feel resistance you may need to tighten your wheels further.
3-6. Finished.
4. Removing Old Grip Tape
4-1. Place your board on your flat surface.
4-2. Get a hair dryer and heat up the edges for 3 to 5 minutes.
4-3. Grab a razor blade and carefully insert it on a 45 degrees angle under the old grip tape.
4-4. Stand on the board for leverage, once the edge of grip tape is pulled up.
4-5. Peel it slowly, until you have removed the old grip tape.
4-6. Apply the new grip tape.
Your board is now ready.
Tips
Keep everything organized so that you don’t lose any small pieces of hardware.
Don't forget to double check your bolts, some of them might be loose.
Take your time, especially when applying the grip tape. It can be a little tricky to place and cut if you’ve never done it before.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:04",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling Your Parts and Tools\\n1-1. Find a suitable workspace.\\nUse a large, flat workspace where you can assemble your skateboard. You will be dealing with a lot of small parts like nuts, bolts, and washers.\\nA large work table or open space on the floor works well. Just make sure that you have enough room to lay out all your parts and tools so you can easily find what you need.\\nKeep your hardware in the original boxes or packaging until you need a particular piece to prevent losing anything.\\nIf you don't want to build your own board from absolute scratch, try buying a blank board from a local shop you can then implement your own design on.\\n1-2. Assemble the proper tools.\\nYou can use a regular set of tools, including a screwdriver, socket wrench, and Allen wrench/hex key. The easiest method is to use a multitool made for skateboards which include a variable size socket wrench, screwdriver, ratchet system, and Allen wrench.\\nYou will also need a razor blade to cut your grip tape, and a file.\\nSome skateboard tools come with a razor and a file. If you don’t have one that does, use a straight edge razor or box cutter, and a metal file or sandpaper.\\nAltogether, the deck will probably cost around $10, but the price of all the materials for the skateboard will be more around $100.\\n1-3. Get your deck and grip tape.\\nThe deck is the curved wood (sometimes plastic or fiberglass) part of your board that you stand on. The grip tape is the black/gray (sometimes other colored) material that goes on top of your deck, to help you maneuver your board without slipping.\\nThere are many brands and types of both decks and grip tapes. Some decks come with the grip tape already applied, if your deck doesn’t you will have to apply it yourself.\\nDecks come in different widths and lengths. Most street skate decks are around 7.5” while park decks are around 8.5”. Decide if you plan on using your board more on the street or in a park. Then consider your stature. Shorter skaters with smaller feet don’t need as wide of a deck, while taller skaters could benefit from the extra room.\\nSome grip tapes are less grippy than others. Grip tape is like sandpaper and made of different grains. If you are new to skating, you may want a medium grip and coarseness so that your feet can move easily without slipping.\\n1-4. Get your trucks, wheels, and bearings.\\nLike decks and grip tape, you have plenty of options when it comes to your trucks, wheels, and bearings. The size, width, and height of these components will differ for everyone’s preferences.\\nA good rule of thumb for trucks is to get ones that fit your board size. You don’t want trucks that are too wide for your board, or vice versa.\\nWheels are typically made of polyurethane that allow you to grip, slide, and move fast. There are different options for the hardness of the wheel as well as the size. Cruising wheels, like the ones for longboards, are the biggest and softest. Small, harder wheels are better for street skating and tricks at the park as they allow for sliding. Then there are wheels that fit in between for versatile skating. Wheel sizes typically range between 49-75mm. Street wheels are typically around 50-55mm. Vert wheels are closer to 55-60mm, and longboard wheels are about 64-75mm.\\nInside each wheel is a groove where the bearings go. The bearings allow the wheels to spin around the metal axle, which is fixed on a truck. Different bearings will also affect how fast and far you can go. The most common bearing size is the “608”. These bearings fit most wheels as the industry standard. Bearings come in steel and ceramic options. Ceramic bearings typically improve the performance of your board and movement but are more expensive. If you’re new to skateboarding, there are plenty of steel bearings that will be more than sufficient.\\nNote that trucks are often sold in singles. If you are purchasing trucks online, make sure you are getting a pair.\\n2. Putting the Grip Tape on Your Deck\\n2-1. Lay your deck down on a flat surface.\\nPutting grip tape on your deck isn’t very hard, but can take some practice to get it looking great. Start with your deck laying on a flat surface, right-side up.\\nThe nose and tail of your board should be pointing up with the flat part of your board resting on the surface.\\nYour board may not lay completely flat due to its design.\\nA good type of wood for your skateboard is hard Maple, because it's thin and durable.\\n2-2. Remove the backing of the grip tape.\\nYour grip tape will come in a rectangular sheet that is longer and wider than your board. Lay it over the nose and tail of your board before peeling to make sure it covers the whole board. Then, peel off the back portion revealing the adhesive side.\\nBe careful to touch as little of the grip tape as possible once you’ve peeled the paper away so you don’t accidentally get the tape stuck to anything and ruin it.\\nPeel all of the back paper off at once.\\n2-3. Place your grip tape down on your deck.\\nPinching the-the ends of tape between your forefinger and thumb, pull the tape taught. Find the nose and tail of your board with your middle fingers. You won’t be able to see the ends with the tape hovering over. Then, find the edge of your board and line the length of the grip tape along it so you can lay the tape down straight.\\n2-4. Lay the tape down starting at the center of both the nose and tip, letting the tape fall naturally onto the top of your deck.\\nOnce you have the tape placed on the top of the deck, take your palms and smooth out the grip tape. Make sure to press down hard and remove any air bubbles. Start in the middle of your board and move outwards towards the ends.\\nIt’s normal to have excess grip tape around your deck. Because your tape is a rectangle, and your board is more of an oval, you’ll have to remove the extra tape.\\n2-5. Take your file and place it on the edge of your board, once your grip tape is laid down.\\nThis will create an outline of the deck under the grip tape.\\nIf you don’t have a file, use the edge of your Allen wrench.\\n2-6. Cut off excess tape.\\nGrab a straight razor or box cutter to cut away any extra grip tape. Start in the center of your deck and cut a small incision that’s perpendicular to your board. This incision will make it easier to cut away extra grip tape. Then cut around the entire circumference of your deck.\\nThe easiest way to get a smooth cut is to angle the razor slightly toward the top edge of the board, hold the outer portion of the tape and slide the razor toward you.\\nBe very careful when doing this as the razor is very sharp and facing you.\\nTake your time and move slowly.\\n2-7. Sand the grip tape edges.\\nTake a portion of the tape that you cut away and fold it over on itself so the sticky part is on the inside. Then, like with sandpaper, run the tape around the edges to sand the edge of the tape down.\\nSanding your grip tape helps to prevent it from peeling up.\\n3. Attaching the Trucks and Wheels\\n3-1. Insert your screws.\\nTake your screwdriver or Allen wrench and punch holes through your grip tape. Hold your deck upright and locate the holes on the bottom of your board. Take your screwdriver and punch holes so that you can see where to place your screws. Then, insert your screws down through the top of your board.\\nSome sets of trucks come with the proper size screws to attach the trucks to the board. Most of the time, however, you will have to purchase screws and nuts separately. Some sets will have two screws which are a different color. Use these screws to differentiate between the tip and tail of your board.\\nWhen punching holes, keep the grip tape in place by holding it down with two fingers around the the hole.\\n3-2. Attach the trucks.\\nNow place the trucks onto your board. Hold the screws in place with one hand and align your trucks. The trucks attach to your deck at the baseplate. The baseplate is the flat square portion of your truck that has four holes for the screws. If placed correctly, the hanger, the “T” shaped part of your trucks will be facing down.\\nTake the nut that came with your screw and screw it on over the baseplate with your hand until you can’t tighten it anymore. Then use your socket wrench to tighten it further. Once your trucks are attached, hold the wrench in place over the bolt with one hand, and tighten the screws further with a screwdriver from the other side.\\nMake sure your trucks are facing outward. The front of your trucks is the flat part of the hanger. It usually has the logo of the brand stamped on it. You can also tell which way is forward by the bushings. The bushings are the colored rubber parts under the kingpin, the top nut of your trucks.\\nBoth trucks should be facing outward. The flat sides should be facing away from each other with the bushing facing toward each other.\\nIf your trucks don’t come with hardware, you can buy hardware packs specifically designed for skate trucks.\\nThe heads of your screws should be flush with the grip tape when you are done, and you shouldn’t be able to jiggle the trucks at all.\\n3-3. Insert your bearings.\\nYour bearings and wheels go on together. Remove the nut and washer from the axle of your truck first. Then grab a bearing. You’ll see a flat side and a ridged side on your bearings. You want the flat side facing out. Put one bearing on the axle, flat side facing up. Take your wheel and press it down over your bearing until you feel the bearing slide into the center of your wheel. Remove the wheel from your axle and slide a second bearing on. Repeat the process, flipping the wheel over.\\nPlace your board on your flat surface and stand the board on its edge for leverage.\\nWhen putting the second bearing on, face your wheel out, with the graphics side exposed. This isn’t necessary, and some wheels may have graphics on both sides.\\nIf you have a bearing press, you can attach the bearings to the wheels without using your trucks.\\n3-4. Attach your wheels.\\nPlace your washer down on top of your bearing, then add the nut. Screw the nut down as far as you can with your hands then grab your skate tool or wrench and continue to tighten the nut. If you have new wheels and bearings, tighten the nut down as far as you can. This will push the bearings down further into your wheel securing the bearing in place. Once everything is tightened all the way, loosen the nut a bit so the wheel can actually spin.\\nLoosen the nut a few turns and spin your wheel, making sure that it can spin sufficiently.\\nGrab the wheel with your fingers and pull on it. You should be able to feel and see it move or jiggle slightly.\\n3-5. Make sure everything is tightened and tuned.\\nWith everything in place, place your board on the ground stand on it. Rock back and forth slightly and even skate around a bit. Test the tightness of your trucks and see how well the wheels spin while riding.\\nIf your trucks are too loose and the board feels wobbly, tighten each one. Grab your skate tool and rotate the nut on the kingpin clockwise about half a turn for each truck.\\nIf your trucks are too tight and you have trouble turning or carving, loosen each one. Turn the nut of your kingpin counterclockwise.\\nJiggle your trucks again to make sure each one is screwed in tightly to the deck.\\nAdjust the tightness of your wheels. If you aren’t rolling as well as you should or feel resistance you may need to tighten your wheels further.\\n3-6. Finished.\\n\\n4. Removing Old Grip Tape\\n4-1. Place your board on your flat surface.\\n\\n4-2. Get a hair dryer and heat up the edges for 3 to 5 minutes.\\n\\n4-3. Grab a razor blade and carefully insert it on a 45 degrees angle under the old grip tape.\\n\\n4-4. Stand on the board for leverage, once the edge of grip tape is pulled up.\\n\\n4-5. Peel it slowly, until you have removed the old grip tape.\\n\\n4-6. Apply the new grip tape.\\nYour board is now ready.\\nTips\\nKeep everything organized so that you don’t lose any small pieces of hardware.\\nDon't forget to double check your bolts, some of them might be loose.\\nTake your time, especially when applying the grip tape. It can be a little tricky to place and cut if you’ve never done it before.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you want build a whole skateboard using a variety of brands or just need to replace a certain part, you can easily build your skateboard with a few tools, such as an allen wrench, socket wrench, or skateboard multitool. A skateboard should have a deck with grip tape, trucks, wheels, and bearings. It is relatively simple to customize your regular board, longboard, or penny board.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling Your Parts and Tools\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a suitable workspace.\", \"描述\": \"Use a large, flat workspace where you can assemble your skateboard. You will be dealing with a lot of small parts like nuts, bolts, and washers.\\nA large work table or open space on the floor works well. Just make sure that you have enough room to lay out all your parts and tools so you can easily find what you need.\\nKeep your hardware in the original boxes or packaging until you need a particular piece to prevent losing anything.\\nIf you don't want to build your own board from absolute scratch, try buying a blank board from a local shop you can then implement your own design on.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assemble the proper tools.\", \"描述\": \"You can use a regular set of tools, including a screwdriver, socket wrench, and Allen wrench/hex key. The easiest method is to use a multitool made for skateboards which include a variable size socket wrench, screwdriver, ratchet system, and Allen wrench.\\nYou will also need a razor blade to cut your grip tape, and a file.\\nSome skateboard tools come with a razor and a file. If you don’t have one that does, use a straight edge razor or box cutter, and a metal file or sandpaper.\\nAltogether, the deck will probably cost around $10, but the price of all the materials for the skateboard will be more around $100.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get your deck and grip tape.\", \"描述\": \"The deck is the curved wood (sometimes plastic or fiberglass) part of your board that you stand on. The grip tape is the black/gray (sometimes other colored) material that goes on top of your deck, to help you maneuver your board without slipping.\\nThere are many brands and types of both decks and grip tapes. Some decks come with the grip tape already applied, if your deck doesn’t you will have to apply it yourself.\\nDecks come in different widths and lengths. Most street skate decks are around 7.5” while park decks are around 8.5”. Decide if you plan on using your board more on the street or in a park. Then consider your stature. Shorter skaters with smaller feet don’t need as wide of a deck, while taller skaters could benefit from the extra room.\\nSome grip tapes are less grippy than others. Grip tape is like sandpaper and made of different grains. If you are new to skating, you may want a medium grip and coarseness so that your feet can move easily without slipping.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get your trucks, wheels, and bearings.\", \"描述\": \"Like decks and grip tape, you have plenty of options when it comes to your trucks, wheels, and bearings. The size, width, and height of these components will differ for everyone’s preferences.\\nA good rule of thumb for trucks is to get ones that fit your board size. You don’t want trucks that are too wide for your board, or vice versa.\\nWheels are typically made of polyurethane that allow you to grip, slide, and move fast. There are different options for the hardness of the wheel as well as the size. Cruising wheels, like the ones for longboards, are the biggest and softest. Small, harder wheels are better for street skating and tricks at the park as they allow for sliding. Then there are wheels that fit in between for versatile skating. Wheel sizes typically range between 49-75mm. Street wheels are typically around 50-55mm. Vert wheels are closer to 55-60mm, and longboard wheels are about 64-75mm.\\nInside each wheel is a groove where the bearings go. The bearings allow the wheels to spin around the metal axle, which is fixed on a truck. Different bearings will also affect how fast and far you can go. The most common bearing size is the “608”. These bearings fit most wheels as the industry standard. Bearings come in steel and ceramic options. Ceramic bearings typically improve the performance of your board and movement but are more expensive. If you’re new to skateboarding, there are plenty of steel bearings that will be more than sufficient.\\nNote that trucks are often sold in singles. If you are purchasing trucks online, make sure you are getting a pair.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Putting the Grip Tape on Your Deck\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay your deck down on a flat surface.\", \"描述\": \"Putting grip tape on your deck isn’t very hard, but can take some practice to get it looking great. Start with your deck laying on a flat surface, right-side up.\\nThe nose and tail of your board should be pointing up with the flat part of your board resting on the surface.\\nYour board may not lay completely flat due to its design.\\nA good type of wood for your skateboard is hard Maple, because it's thin and durable.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove the backing of the grip tape.\", \"描述\": \"Your grip tape will come in a rectangular sheet that is longer and wider than your board. Lay it over the nose and tail of your board before peeling to make sure it covers the whole board. Then, peel off the back portion revealing the adhesive side.\\nBe careful to touch as little of the grip tape as possible once you’ve peeled the paper away so you don’t accidentally get the tape stuck to anything and ruin it.\\nPeel all of the back paper off at once.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place your grip tape down on your deck.\", \"描述\": \"Pinching the-the ends of tape between your forefinger and thumb, pull the tape taught. Find the nose and tail of your board with your middle fingers. You won’t be able to see the ends with the tape hovering over. Then, find the edge of your board and line the length of the grip tape along it so you can lay the tape down straight.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay the tape down starting at the center of both the nose and tip, letting the tape fall naturally onto the top of your deck.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the tape placed on the top of the deck, take your palms and smooth out the grip tape. Make sure to press down hard and remove any air bubbles. Start in the middle of your board and move outwards towards the ends.\\nIt’s normal to have excess grip tape around your deck. Because your tape is a rectangle, and your board is more of an oval, you’ll have to remove the extra tape.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Take your file and place it on the edge of your board, once your grip tape is laid down.\", \"描述\": \"This will create an outline of the deck under the grip tape.\\nIf you don’t have a file, use the edge of your Allen wrench.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut off excess tape.\", \"描述\": \"Grab a straight razor or box cutter to cut away any extra grip tape. Start in the center of your deck and cut a small incision that’s perpendicular to your board. This incision will make it easier to cut away extra grip tape. Then cut around the entire circumference of your deck.\\nThe easiest way to get a smooth cut is to angle the razor slightly toward the top edge of the board, hold the outer portion of the tape and slide the razor toward you.\\nBe very careful when doing this as the razor is very sharp and facing you.\\nTake your time and move slowly.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Sand the grip tape edges.\", \"描述\": \"Take a portion of the tape that you cut away and fold it over on itself so the sticky part is on the inside. Then, like with sandpaper, run the tape around the edges to sand the edge of the tape down.\\nSanding your grip tape helps to prevent it from peeling up.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Trucks and Wheels\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Insert your screws.\", \"描述\": \"Take your screwdriver or Allen wrench and punch holes through your grip tape. Hold your deck upright and locate the holes on the bottom of your board. Take your screwdriver and punch holes so that you can see where to place your screws. Then, insert your screws down through the top of your board.\\nSome sets of trucks come with the proper size screws to attach the trucks to the board. Most of the time, however, you will have to purchase screws and nuts separately. Some sets will have two screws which are a different color. Use these screws to differentiate between the tip and tail of your board.\\nWhen punching holes, keep the grip tape in place by holding it down with two fingers around the the hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the trucks.\", \"描述\": \"Now place the trucks onto your board. Hold the screws in place with one hand and align your trucks. The trucks attach to your deck at the baseplate. The baseplate is the flat square portion of your truck that has four holes for the screws. If placed correctly, the hanger, the “T” shaped part of your trucks will be facing down.\\nTake the nut that came with your screw and screw it on over the baseplate with your hand until you can’t tighten it anymore. Then use your socket wrench to tighten it further. Once your trucks are attached, hold the wrench in place over the bolt with one hand, and tighten the screws further with a screwdriver from the other side.\\nMake sure your trucks are facing outward. The front of your trucks is the flat part of the hanger. It usually has the logo of the brand stamped on it. You can also tell which way is forward by the bushings. The bushings are the colored rubber parts under the kingpin, the top nut of your trucks.\\nBoth trucks should be facing outward. The flat sides should be facing away from each other with the bushing facing toward each other.\\nIf your trucks don’t come with hardware, you can buy hardware packs specifically designed for skate trucks.\\nThe heads of your screws should be flush with the grip tape when you are done, and you shouldn’t be able to jiggle the trucks at all.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert your bearings.\", \"描述\": \"Your bearings and wheels go on together. Remove the nut and washer from the axle of your truck first. Then grab a bearing. You’ll see a flat side and a ridged side on your bearings. You want the flat side facing out. Put one bearing on the axle, flat side facing up. Take your wheel and press it down over your bearing until you feel the bearing slide into the center of your wheel. Remove the wheel from your axle and slide a second bearing on. Repeat the process, flipping the wheel over.\\nPlace your board on your flat surface and stand the board on its edge for leverage.\\nWhen putting the second bearing on, face your wheel out, with the graphics side exposed. This isn’t necessary, and some wheels may have graphics on both sides.\\nIf you have a bearing press, you can attach the bearings to the wheels without using your trucks.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach your wheels.\", \"描述\": \"Place your washer down on top of your bearing, then add the nut. Screw the nut down as far as you can with your hands then grab your skate tool or wrench and continue to tighten the nut. If you have new wheels and bearings, tighten the nut down as far as you can. This will push the bearings down further into your wheel securing the bearing in place. Once everything is tightened all the way, loosen the nut a bit so the wheel can actually spin.\\nLoosen the nut a few turns and spin your wheel, making sure that it can spin sufficiently.\\nGrab the wheel with your fingers and pull on it. You should be able to feel and see it move or jiggle slightly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make sure everything is tightened and tuned.\", \"描述\": \"With everything in place, place your board on the ground stand on it. Rock back and forth slightly and even skate around a bit. Test the tightness of your trucks and see how well the wheels spin while riding.\\nIf your trucks are too loose and the board feels wobbly, tighten each one. Grab your skate tool and rotate the nut on the kingpin clockwise about half a turn for each truck.\\nIf your trucks are too tight and you have trouble turning or carving, loosen each one. Turn the nut of your kingpin counterclockwise.\\nJiggle your trucks again to make sure each one is screwed in tightly to the deck.\\nAdjust the tightness of your wheels. If you aren’t rolling as well as you should or feel resistance you may need to tighten your wheels further.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Removing Old Grip Tape\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place your board on your flat surface.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get a hair dryer and heat up the edges for 3 to 5 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Grab a razor blade and carefully insert it on a 45 degrees angle under the old grip tape.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stand on the board for leverage, once the edge of grip tape is pulled up.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Peel it slowly, until you have removed the old grip tape.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Apply the new grip tape.\", \"描述\": \"Your board is now ready.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Keep everything organized so that you don’t lose any small pieces of hardware.\\n\", \"Don't forget to double check your bolts, some of them might be loose.\\n\", \"Take your time, especially when applying the grip tape. It can be a little tricky to place and cut if you’ve never done it before.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,543 |
How to Build a Skateboard Ramp
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1. How to Design Your Ramp
1-1. Maximize all available space.
Take a look at the space you have available not only for when the ramp is in use but also when it’s not. If you choose to build a portable ramp, make sure you take into consideration any storage issues. Conversely, you may not want to build a ramp if your yard doesn’t have adequate surrounding area for other activities.
The first thing you have to consider is where will you place your ramp when it is in use. Consider the terrain, if there are any obstructions, and if there are any issues that may arise with your neighbors or the city. Depending on how large you plan to make your ramp, your place of residence may have ordinances on measurements or noise so it’s best to check with anyone you may think will be affected.
Consider what happens when your ramp is not in use. For example, will you need to store it and, if so, how will you transport it to and from different locations. If you don’t plan to store it, how much more resources will you have to spend in order to keep it maintained. Most likely you will have it outdoors so you have to consider how weather will affect its use. Moreover, when left outside, will it prevent you and your family from utilizing that space for anything else other than skateboarding.
Some common places to use a skate ramp are the driveway, carport, and backyard.
Ramps can be stored in the open when properly lifted off the ground, sealed and covered with a tarp. Increase your ramp’s longevity by shielding it from the elements
1-2. Decide what kind of ramp you want to build.
Once you’ve got a good sense of the space available to you, plan out how involved you want your ramp to be. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert creating new tricks, the possibilities are endless.
Don’t be nearsighted. Just because you may only be focused on a single trick now doesn’t mean you won’t want to learn new ones. Try to keep your ramp as versatile as possible; however, start small if this is your first woodworking project.
A small mini ramp is good for a limited amount of space and can be built into any shape. A ramp strictly for jumps can be limiting but is great for beginners. A standard ramp conventionally has ten foot transitions, a small staircase and can be used in millions of different ways as you hone your craft.
1-3. Create a blueprint to customize your design.
Getting your ideas on paper is the best way to get a sense of how involved this project will be. It will also allow you to work out any practical issues concerning measurements.
Find pro ramp plans online.
Don’t buy expensive design software. Look for free blueprints online, consult friends skilled in design, or go to your local hardware store to start you off on the right foot.
Don’t be afraid to be creative with your design; however, be sure not to start building unless you’re truly satisfied with the final design. Repeatedly starting and stopping can bleed your resources and cause unwanted frustration.
When you’re customizing, some experimentation may be needed but be careful not to act without intention. For example, if you experiment and hastily cut off several feet rather than an inch at a time, you may need to start the entire project all over again. This can especially be true when building curved ramps. If you’re on a budget or a beginner, pick a blueprint that matches most of your needs and, after a successful build, consider building a second ramp with customization.
2. How to Organize Supplies
2-1. Make a list of what you need.
Use your blueprint as a guide for what tools are needed. Consult your local hardware store in case they have better alternatives. For example, certain types of wood may provide a better surface for skateboarding but may not hold up well to the autumn rain.
Purchase screws and wood at any hardware store. Ensuring the length and type are best suited for your measurements and plans.
Consider renting, borrowing, or using your own power tools to reduce time. For example, a power drill with assorted bits would be helpful but not necessary if you just want to use a regular screwdriver. Likewise, a jigsaw would also reduce time if you are cutting any wood down.
If you choose steel plating in conjunction with wood or instead of it, you’ll need to find a local steel fabricator or scrap metal centre in your area. This may be difficult to find in your area, so start your design and customization around what steel is available to you.
Stick to a budget especially if this is your first build. A beginner ramp commonly costs approximately $200 to build after all building materials are purchased but this can easily sky rocket if you factor in power tools, customization, or top-of-the-line materials.
2-2. Organize your lumber.
While some stores will cut it for you, be prepared to shape your wood to your specifications yourself. Getting a professional will save you time and the hassle of working with power tools so weigh that possibility into your overall budget to help manage your expectations.
Use pressure treated wood. This material is chemically treated for protection against the growth of mould and is fairly waterproof. Consult the retailer for all possible alternatives. Pressure treated wood comes in two colors: a copper green-ish tinge and a natural tone. The only difference is the preservative so choose whatever looks best to you.
2-3. Measure twice and cut once.
Before cutting or shaping anything, remember the old adage.
If you’re unsure, do a faux set-up by drawing it out because it’s better to make the mistake on paper rather than ruin your project and start over. Don’t be afraid to ask someone for help.
Don’t be embarrassed about mistakes. You might need to pick up extra pieces of wood, but don’t give up because woodworking is a skill that needs to be developed over time.
2-4. Keep safe.
Safety should be your number one priority both when in the process of building your ramp and for the final outcome, when your ramp is in use.
Wear goggles to deflect wood chunks and protect your eyes from sawdust.
Wear clothes that fit because loose clothes can easily be caught by tools.
2-5. Preserve the wood to ensure your ramp’s longevity.
Wood won’t last forever, so protect it with a skate-friendly sealant such as Skatepaint, which is a polyurethane sealant that protects from water.
Protect your ramp from rain and the elements by giving it a smooth finish with sealant.
3. How to Build Your Ramp
3-1. Cut out the sides of the ramp.
Initially, you’ll be cutting out two side pieces from plywood. These will be flimsy but will be the outer sides of the ramp.
Use a pencil to draw out the lines and a jigsaw to cut along these lines if you haven’t had your wood cut at the hardware store.
3-2. Frame the ramp.
Starting with the back support, nail in the four supports found in the blueprint. Be generous with your nails because each nail adds more support to the ramp. After all four supports are attached securely, line up the second side and secure it into the bottom of the supports.
Attach the sides of the ramp to a front anchor. It’s vital to make sure, at this point in time, that the frame is level because if it’s not level now, it won’t be after completion.
3-3. Put in the ramp supports.
Starting at the top, attach your 2x6 and 2x4 eight inches apart, with the 2” side facing up. Attach the 2x6 first, as the removed length from the 2x4 will help maintain a ramp that is flush to the ground.
You can also double up on the 2x6 boards approximately four inches from the top of the ramp for additional support for the ramp.
You can also attach a support (two longer 2x4) underneath the 2x6’s because, while it's unlikely they will break, the added support will truly strengthen the structure.
3-4. Attach the remaining plywood.
Take the two 4” x 6” and place them atop the highest 2” x 6”. This gives your ramp a short but safe edge to stand on. After nailing securely, take your two plywood sheets and attach the upper one first. After it’s securely attached with screws, attach the lower sheet. The bottom sheet should slightly overhang the ramp to create a smooth transition from the ramp to the pavement. Remember to drill the screws from the top down to prevent anything from catching, making the ramp unsmooth.
Put screws in every foot starting at the top to ensure a smooth transition between panels.
3-5. Create the surface of your ramp.
Take two sheets of masonite or sheets of skatelite and lay them down atop the previous sheets of plywood. This will be the finished, exposed top of the ramp. After careful alignment, secure them in by using screws approximately every six to eight inches. Remember to start at the top and always screw down into the ramp.
If possible, don’t put the seam of the masonite or skatelite directly atop the seam of the two plywood boards in order to add strength to the ramp.
3-6. Attach the steel plate to the bottom of the ramp.
When drilling steel, use a drill bit to first drill a hole for the screw. Next, drive in the screw. this will help ensure the screws are flush with the metal.
4. How to Surface Your Ramp
4-1. Choose the top layer.
The first two layers should be ⅜” untreated plywood but the top layer can be Skatelite, Masonite, or you can simply skate directly on Plywood. Choose the top layer based on your budget and climate.
Skatelite is the most costly surface as it is used by professionals and is weather resistant.
Masonite is a smooth tempered hardboard that is reasonably priced but is not resistant to the sun and rain so it must be protected.
Plywood is not weather resistant and is unforgiving when you fall but is the most cost effective choice for your surface.
4-2. Sand down any jagged edges or loose corners.
This particularly needs to be done when just using plywood. Plywood comes in different grades depending on the quality. The quality of the plywood indicates its durability. Plywood is made up of layers and each layer is given a grade. For example, the first letter is the grade of the top layer while the second letter is the grade of the bottom layer.
For a smooth finish, sand down the bare wood using 120 sandpaper. Follow that up with 150 grit. Then work your way up to 180 grit.
Grade A is the highest grade of plywood with no knots, splits, or cracks.
Grade B is solid with minimal knots and splits. It usually is sanded smooth but may need you to give it another sanding.
Grade C has knots up to 1 ½” in diameter as well as cracks and splits that affect the wood’s integrity.
Grade D will have many splits and cracks. Knots can be as large as 3” and the surface will need to be sanded. Grade D is the lowest grade but the most cost effective.
Finnish Birch is high quality plywood but is expensive and may be difficult to find.
4-3. Finish the surface of your ramp.
Whether you are using the highest quality skatelite or more cost effective plywood, always protect your material from the weather.
Skatelite is resistant from the sun and rain but laying tar paper underneath it will protect the plywood base from any water that gets in through any cracks.
If you’re using masonite or plywood, protect your surface from the rain with water resistant paint. Use Spar Urethane or Polyurethane Paint. Spar Urethane is the most heavy duty but also the most costly. Polyurethane does not protect as well as Spar Urethane but comes in a variety of colours.
4-4. Cover your ramp with a tarp to give it an extra layer of protection.
Be sure to shovel off any snow during the Winter to make sure the moisture doesn’t seep through and warp your wood.
Tips
Masonite doesn’t age well so keep it covered and give it a dust off before use.[24]
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For better results and a sturdier ramp, take the time to use screws instead of nails. Screws tend to not stick out after time. Who wants to snag on a rusty nail after catching air?
Always back up any nails in the structure with a screw or two.
Warnings
Never use nails on the riding surface. This is very dangerous!
Don’t start building until you are satisfied with your design and it fits within your budget and timeline. Avoid costly mistakes and unwanted headaches by managing your expectations.
As with any extreme sport, be sure you have a safe location and quality safety equipment.
Be aware of the quality of the material that you use. For a good wood jump don't get any pieces of wood that have huge holes where you'll ride. If it's rotten in spots, it will make for bad jumps and potential injury.
Always wear a helmet when jumping!
Don’t use drugs or alcohol when building because this can impair your judgement and even the slightest mistake can lead to a terrible injury.[25]
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Research source
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:05",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. How to Design Your Ramp\\n1-1. Maximize all available space.\\nTake a look at the space you have available not only for when the ramp is in use but also when it’s not. If you choose to build a portable ramp, make sure you take into consideration any storage issues. Conversely, you may not want to build a ramp if your yard doesn’t have adequate surrounding area for other activities.\\nThe first thing you have to consider is where will you place your ramp when it is in use. Consider the terrain, if there are any obstructions, and if there are any issues that may arise with your neighbors or the city. Depending on how large you plan to make your ramp, your place of residence may have ordinances on measurements or noise so it’s best to check with anyone you may think will be affected.\\nConsider what happens when your ramp is not in use. For example, will you need to store it and, if so, how will you transport it to and from different locations. If you don’t plan to store it, how much more resources will you have to spend in order to keep it maintained. Most likely you will have it outdoors so you have to consider how weather will affect its use. Moreover, when left outside, will it prevent you and your family from utilizing that space for anything else other than skateboarding.\\nSome common places to use a skate ramp are the driveway, carport, and backyard.\\nRamps can be stored in the open when properly lifted off the ground, sealed and covered with a tarp. Increase your ramp’s longevity by shielding it from the elements\\n1-2. Decide what kind of ramp you want to build.\\nOnce you’ve got a good sense of the space available to you, plan out how involved you want your ramp to be. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert creating new tricks, the possibilities are endless.\\nDon’t be nearsighted. Just because you may only be focused on a single trick now doesn’t mean you won’t want to learn new ones. Try to keep your ramp as versatile as possible; however, start small if this is your first woodworking project.\\nA small mini ramp is good for a limited amount of space and can be built into any shape. A ramp strictly for jumps can be limiting but is great for beginners. A standard ramp conventionally has ten foot transitions, a small staircase and can be used in millions of different ways as you hone your craft.\\n1-3. Create a blueprint to customize your design.\\nGetting your ideas on paper is the best way to get a sense of how involved this project will be. It will also allow you to work out any practical issues concerning measurements.\\nFind pro ramp plans online.\\nDon’t buy expensive design software. Look for free blueprints online, consult friends skilled in design, or go to your local hardware store to start you off on the right foot.\\nDon’t be afraid to be creative with your design; however, be sure not to start building unless you’re truly satisfied with the final design. Repeatedly starting and stopping can bleed your resources and cause unwanted frustration.\\nWhen you’re customizing, some experimentation may be needed but be careful not to act without intention. For example, if you experiment and hastily cut off several feet rather than an inch at a time, you may need to start the entire project all over again. This can especially be true when building curved ramps. If you’re on a budget or a beginner, pick a blueprint that matches most of your needs and, after a successful build, consider building a second ramp with customization.\\n2. How to Organize Supplies\\n2-1. Make a list of what you need.\\nUse your blueprint as a guide for what tools are needed. Consult your local hardware store in case they have better alternatives. For example, certain types of wood may provide a better surface for skateboarding but may not hold up well to the autumn rain.\\nPurchase screws and wood at any hardware store. Ensuring the length and type are best suited for your measurements and plans.\\nConsider renting, borrowing, or using your own power tools to reduce time. For example, a power drill with assorted bits would be helpful but not necessary if you just want to use a regular screwdriver. Likewise, a jigsaw would also reduce time if you are cutting any wood down.\\nIf you choose steel plating in conjunction with wood or instead of it, you’ll need to find a local steel fabricator or scrap metal centre in your area. This may be difficult to find in your area, so start your design and customization around what steel is available to you.\\nStick to a budget especially if this is your first build. A beginner ramp commonly costs approximately $200 to build after all building materials are purchased but this can easily sky rocket if you factor in power tools, customization, or top-of-the-line materials.\\n2-2. Organize your lumber.\\nWhile some stores will cut it for you, be prepared to shape your wood to your specifications yourself. Getting a professional will save you time and the hassle of working with power tools so weigh that possibility into your overall budget to help manage your expectations.\\nUse pressure treated wood. This material is chemically treated for protection against the growth of mould and is fairly waterproof. Consult the retailer for all possible alternatives. Pressure treated wood comes in two colors: a copper green-ish tinge and a natural tone. The only difference is the preservative so choose whatever looks best to you.\\n2-3. Measure twice and cut once.\\nBefore cutting or shaping anything, remember the old adage.\\nIf you’re unsure, do a faux set-up by drawing it out because it’s better to make the mistake on paper rather than ruin your project and start over. Don’t be afraid to ask someone for help.\\nDon’t be embarrassed about mistakes. You might need to pick up extra pieces of wood, but don’t give up because woodworking is a skill that needs to be developed over time.\\n2-4. Keep safe.\\nSafety should be your number one priority both when in the process of building your ramp and for the final outcome, when your ramp is in use.\\nWear goggles to deflect wood chunks and protect your eyes from sawdust.\\nWear clothes that fit because loose clothes can easily be caught by tools.\\n2-5. Preserve the wood to ensure your ramp’s longevity.\\nWood won’t last forever, so protect it with a skate-friendly sealant such as Skatepaint, which is a polyurethane sealant that protects from water. \\nProtect your ramp from rain and the elements by giving it a smooth finish with sealant.\\n3. How to Build Your Ramp\\n3-1. Cut out the sides of the ramp.\\nInitially, you’ll be cutting out two side pieces from plywood. These will be flimsy but will be the outer sides of the ramp.\\nUse a pencil to draw out the lines and a jigsaw to cut along these lines if you haven’t had your wood cut at the hardware store.\\n3-2. Frame the ramp.\\nStarting with the back support, nail in the four supports found in the blueprint. Be generous with your nails because each nail adds more support to the ramp. After all four supports are attached securely, line up the second side and secure it into the bottom of the supports.\\nAttach the sides of the ramp to a front anchor. It’s vital to make sure, at this point in time, that the frame is level because if it’s not level now, it won’t be after completion.\\n3-3. Put in the ramp supports.\\nStarting at the top, attach your 2x6 and 2x4 eight inches apart, with the 2” side facing up. Attach the 2x6 first, as the removed length from the 2x4 will help maintain a ramp that is flush to the ground. \\nYou can also double up on the 2x6 boards approximately four inches from the top of the ramp for additional support for the ramp.\\nYou can also attach a support (two longer 2x4) underneath the 2x6’s because, while it's unlikely they will break, the added support will truly strengthen the structure.\\n3-4. Attach the remaining plywood.\\nTake the two 4” x 6” and place them atop the highest 2” x 6”. This gives your ramp a short but safe edge to stand on. After nailing securely, take your two plywood sheets and attach the upper one first. After it’s securely attached with screws, attach the lower sheet. The bottom sheet should slightly overhang the ramp to create a smooth transition from the ramp to the pavement. Remember to drill the screws from the top down to prevent anything from catching, making the ramp unsmooth.\\nPut screws in every foot starting at the top to ensure a smooth transition between panels.\\n3-5. Create the surface of your ramp.\\nTake two sheets of masonite or sheets of skatelite and lay them down atop the previous sheets of plywood. This will be the finished, exposed top of the ramp. After careful alignment, secure them in by using screws approximately every six to eight inches. Remember to start at the top and always screw down into the ramp.\\nIf possible, don’t put the seam of the masonite or skatelite directly atop the seam of the two plywood boards in order to add strength to the ramp.\\n3-6. Attach the steel plate to the bottom of the ramp.\\nWhen drilling steel, use a drill bit to first drill a hole for the screw. Next, drive in the screw. this will help ensure the screws are flush with the metal.\\n4. How to Surface Your Ramp\\n4-1. Choose the top layer.\\nThe first two layers should be ⅜” untreated plywood but the top layer can be Skatelite, Masonite, or you can simply skate directly on Plywood. Choose the top layer based on your budget and climate.\\nSkatelite is the most costly surface as it is used by professionals and is weather resistant.\\nMasonite is a smooth tempered hardboard that is reasonably priced but is not resistant to the sun and rain so it must be protected.\\nPlywood is not weather resistant and is unforgiving when you fall but is the most cost effective choice for your surface.\\n4-2. Sand down any jagged edges or loose corners.\\nThis particularly needs to be done when just using plywood. Plywood comes in different grades depending on the quality. The quality of the plywood indicates its durability. Plywood is made up of layers and each layer is given a grade. For example, the first letter is the grade of the top layer while the second letter is the grade of the bottom layer.\\nFor a smooth finish, sand down the bare wood using 120 sandpaper. Follow that up with 150 grit. Then work your way up to 180 grit.\\nGrade A is the highest grade of plywood with no knots, splits, or cracks.\\nGrade B is solid with minimal knots and splits. It usually is sanded smooth but may need you to give it another sanding.\\nGrade C has knots up to 1 ½” in diameter as well as cracks and splits that affect the wood’s integrity.\\nGrade D will have many splits and cracks. Knots can be as large as 3” and the surface will need to be sanded. Grade D is the lowest grade but the most cost effective.\\nFinnish Birch is high quality plywood but is expensive and may be difficult to find.\\n4-3. Finish the surface of your ramp.\\nWhether you are using the highest quality skatelite or more cost effective plywood, always protect your material from the weather.\\nSkatelite is resistant from the sun and rain but laying tar paper underneath it will protect the plywood base from any water that gets in through any cracks.\\nIf you’re using masonite or plywood, protect your surface from the rain with water resistant paint. Use Spar Urethane or Polyurethane Paint. Spar Urethane is the most heavy duty but also the most costly. Polyurethane does not protect as well as Spar Urethane but comes in a variety of colours.\\n4-4. Cover your ramp with a tarp to give it an extra layer of protection.\\nBe sure to shovel off any snow during the Winter to make sure the moisture doesn’t seep through and warp your wood.\\nTips\\nMasonite doesn’t age well so keep it covered and give it a dust off before use.[24]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nFor better results and a sturdier ramp, take the time to use screws instead of nails. Screws tend to not stick out after time. Who wants to snag on a rusty nail after catching air?\\nAlways back up any nails in the structure with a screw or two.\\nWarnings\\nNever use nails on the riding surface. This is very dangerous!\\nDon’t start building until you are satisfied with your design and it fits within your budget and timeline. Avoid costly mistakes and unwanted headaches by managing your expectations.\\nAs with any extreme sport, be sure you have a safe location and quality safety equipment.\\nBe aware of the quality of the material that you use. For a good wood jump don't get any pieces of wood that have huge holes where you'll ride. If it's rotten in spots, it will make for bad jumps and potential injury.\\nAlways wear a helmet when jumping!\\nDon’t use drugs or alcohol when building because this can impair your judgement and even the slightest mistake can lead to a terrible injury.[25]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you’re a seasoned skateboarder or trying to raise one, building a skate ramp can be a fun and satisfying experience when done right. Maximizing space, keeping safe, and staying patient are keys to creating this fun investment.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"How to Design Your Ramp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Maximize all available space.\", \"描述\": \"Take a look at the space you have available not only for when the ramp is in use but also when it’s not. If you choose to build a portable ramp, make sure you take into consideration any storage issues. Conversely, you may not want to build a ramp if your yard doesn’t have adequate surrounding area for other activities.\\nThe first thing you have to consider is where will you place your ramp when it is in use. Consider the terrain, if there are any obstructions, and if there are any issues that may arise with your neighbors or the city. Depending on how large you plan to make your ramp, your place of residence may have ordinances on measurements or noise so it’s best to check with anyone you may think will be affected.\\nConsider what happens when your ramp is not in use. For example, will you need to store it and, if so, how will you transport it to and from different locations. If you don’t plan to store it, how much more resources will you have to spend in order to keep it maintained. Most likely you will have it outdoors so you have to consider how weather will affect its use. Moreover, when left outside, will it prevent you and your family from utilizing that space for anything else other than skateboarding.\\nSome common places to use a skate ramp are the driveway, carport, and backyard.\\nRamps can be stored in the open when properly lifted off the ground, sealed and covered with a tarp. Increase your ramp’s longevity by shielding it from the elements\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide what kind of ramp you want to build.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve got a good sense of the space available to you, plan out how involved you want your ramp to be. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert creating new tricks, the possibilities are endless.\\nDon’t be nearsighted. Just because you may only be focused on a single trick now doesn’t mean you won’t want to learn new ones. Try to keep your ramp as versatile as possible; however, start small if this is your first woodworking project.\\nA small mini ramp is good for a limited amount of space and can be built into any shape. A ramp strictly for jumps can be limiting but is great for beginners. A standard ramp conventionally has ten foot transitions, a small staircase and can be used in millions of different ways as you hone your craft.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a blueprint to customize your design.\", \"描述\": \"Getting your ideas on paper is the best way to get a sense of how involved this project will be. It will also allow you to work out any practical issues concerning measurements.\\nFind pro ramp plans online.\\nDon’t buy expensive design software. Look for free blueprints online, consult friends skilled in design, or go to your local hardware store to start you off on the right foot.\\nDon’t be afraid to be creative with your design; however, be sure not to start building unless you’re truly satisfied with the final design. Repeatedly starting and stopping can bleed your resources and cause unwanted frustration.\\nWhen you’re customizing, some experimentation may be needed but be careful not to act without intention. For example, if you experiment and hastily cut off several feet rather than an inch at a time, you may need to start the entire project all over again. This can especially be true when building curved ramps. If you’re on a budget or a beginner, pick a blueprint that matches most of your needs and, after a successful build, consider building a second ramp with customization.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"How to Organize Supplies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a list of what you need.\", \"描述\": \"Use your blueprint as a guide for what tools are needed. Consult your local hardware store in case they have better alternatives. For example, certain types of wood may provide a better surface for skateboarding but may not hold up well to the autumn rain.\\nPurchase screws and wood at any hardware store. Ensuring the length and type are best suited for your measurements and plans.\\nConsider renting, borrowing, or using your own power tools to reduce time. For example, a power drill with assorted bits would be helpful but not necessary if you just want to use a regular screwdriver. Likewise, a jigsaw would also reduce time if you are cutting any wood down.\\nIf you choose steel plating in conjunction with wood or instead of it, you’ll need to find a local steel fabricator or scrap metal centre in your area. This may be difficult to find in your area, so start your design and customization around what steel is available to you.\\nStick to a budget especially if this is your first build. A beginner ramp commonly costs approximately $200 to build after all building materials are purchased but this can easily sky rocket if you factor in power tools, customization, or top-of-the-line materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Organize your lumber.\", \"描述\": \"While some stores will cut it for you, be prepared to shape your wood to your specifications yourself. Getting a professional will save you time and the hassle of working with power tools so weigh that possibility into your overall budget to help manage your expectations.\\nUse pressure treated wood. This material is chemically treated for protection against the growth of mould and is fairly waterproof. Consult the retailer for all possible alternatives. Pressure treated wood comes in two colors: a copper green-ish tinge and a natural tone. The only difference is the preservative so choose whatever looks best to you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure twice and cut once.\", \"描述\": \"Before cutting or shaping anything, remember the old adage.\\nIf you’re unsure, do a faux set-up by drawing it out because it’s better to make the mistake on paper rather than ruin your project and start over. Don’t be afraid to ask someone for help.\\nDon’t be embarrassed about mistakes. You might need to pick up extra pieces of wood, but don’t give up because woodworking is a skill that needs to be developed over time.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep safe.\", \"描述\": \"Safety should be your number one priority both when in the process of building your ramp and for the final outcome, when your ramp is in use.\\nWear goggles to deflect wood chunks and protect your eyes from sawdust.\\nWear clothes that fit because loose clothes can easily be caught by tools.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Preserve the wood to ensure your ramp’s longevity.\", \"描述\": \"Wood won’t last forever, so protect it with a skate-friendly sealant such as Skatepaint, which is a polyurethane sealant that protects from water. \\nProtect your ramp from rain and the elements by giving it a smooth finish with sealant.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"How to Build Your Ramp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut out the sides of the ramp.\", \"描述\": \"Initially, you’ll be cutting out two side pieces from plywood. These will be flimsy but will be the outer sides of the ramp.\\nUse a pencil to draw out the lines and a jigsaw to cut along these lines if you haven’t had your wood cut at the hardware store.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Frame the ramp.\", \"描述\": \"Starting with the back support, nail in the four supports found in the blueprint. Be generous with your nails because each nail adds more support to the ramp. After all four supports are attached securely, line up the second side and secure it into the bottom of the supports.\\nAttach the sides of the ramp to a front anchor. It’s vital to make sure, at this point in time, that the frame is level because if it’s not level now, it won’t be after completion.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put in the ramp supports.\", \"描述\": \"Starting at the top, attach your 2x6 and 2x4 eight inches apart, with the 2” side facing up. Attach the 2x6 first, as the removed length from the 2x4 will help maintain a ramp that is flush to the ground. \\nYou can also double up on the 2x6 boards approximately four inches from the top of the ramp for additional support for the ramp.\\nYou can also attach a support (two longer 2x4) underneath the 2x6’s because, while it's unlikely they will break, the added support will truly strengthen the structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the remaining plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Take the two 4” x 6” and place them atop the highest 2” x 6”. This gives your ramp a short but safe edge to stand on. After nailing securely, take your two plywood sheets and attach the upper one first. After it’s securely attached with screws, attach the lower sheet. The bottom sheet should slightly overhang the ramp to create a smooth transition from the ramp to the pavement. Remember to drill the screws from the top down to prevent anything from catching, making the ramp unsmooth.\\nPut screws in every foot starting at the top to ensure a smooth transition between panels.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create the surface of your ramp.\", \"描述\": \"Take two sheets of masonite or sheets of skatelite and lay them down atop the previous sheets of plywood. This will be the finished, exposed top of the ramp. After careful alignment, secure them in by using screws approximately every six to eight inches. Remember to start at the top and always screw down into the ramp.\\nIf possible, don’t put the seam of the masonite or skatelite directly atop the seam of the two plywood boards in order to add strength to the ramp.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the steel plate to the bottom of the ramp.\", \"描述\": \"When drilling steel, use a drill bit to first drill a hole for the screw. Next, drive in the screw. this will help ensure the screws are flush with the metal.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"How to Surface Your Ramp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the top layer.\", \"描述\": \"The first two layers should be ⅜” untreated plywood but the top layer can be Skatelite, Masonite, or you can simply skate directly on Plywood. Choose the top layer based on your budget and climate.\\nSkatelite is the most costly surface as it is used by professionals and is weather resistant.\\nMasonite is a smooth tempered hardboard that is reasonably priced but is not resistant to the sun and rain so it must be protected.\\nPlywood is not weather resistant and is unforgiving when you fall but is the most cost effective choice for your surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sand down any jagged edges or loose corners.\", \"描述\": \"This particularly needs to be done when just using plywood. Plywood comes in different grades depending on the quality. The quality of the plywood indicates its durability. Plywood is made up of layers and each layer is given a grade. For example, the first letter is the grade of the top layer while the second letter is the grade of the bottom layer.\\nFor a smooth finish, sand down the bare wood using 120 sandpaper. Follow that up with 150 grit. Then work your way up to 180 grit.\\nGrade A is the highest grade of plywood with no knots, splits, or cracks.\\nGrade B is solid with minimal knots and splits. It usually is sanded smooth but may need you to give it another sanding.\\nGrade C has knots up to 1 ½” in diameter as well as cracks and splits that affect the wood’s integrity.\\nGrade D will have many splits and cracks. Knots can be as large as 3” and the surface will need to be sanded. Grade D is the lowest grade but the most cost effective.\\nFinnish Birch is high quality plywood but is expensive and may be difficult to find.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finish the surface of your ramp.\", \"描述\": \"Whether you are using the highest quality skatelite or more cost effective plywood, always protect your material from the weather.\\nSkatelite is resistant from the sun and rain but laying tar paper underneath it will protect the plywood base from any water that gets in through any cracks.\\nIf you’re using masonite or plywood, protect your surface from the rain with water resistant paint. Use Spar Urethane or Polyurethane Paint. Spar Urethane is the most heavy duty but also the most costly. Polyurethane does not protect as well as Spar Urethane but comes in a variety of colours.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover your ramp with a tarp to give it an extra layer of protection.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to shovel off any snow during the Winter to make sure the moisture doesn’t seep through and warp your wood.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Masonite doesn’t age well so keep it covered and give it a dust off before use.[24]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"For better results and a sturdier ramp, take the time to use screws instead of nails. Screws tend to not stick out after time. Who wants to snag on a rusty nail after catching air?\\n\", \"Always back up any nails in the structure with a screw or two.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Never use nails on the riding surface. This is very dangerous!\\n\", \"Don’t start building until you are satisfied with your design and it fits within your budget and timeline. Avoid costly mistakes and unwanted headaches by managing your expectations.\\n\", \"As with any extreme sport, be sure you have a safe location and quality safety equipment.\\n\", \"Be aware of the quality of the material that you use. For a good wood jump don't get any pieces of wood that have huge holes where you'll ride. If it's rotten in spots, it will make for bad jumps and potential injury.\\n\", \"Always wear a helmet when jumping!\\n\", \"Don’t use drugs or alcohol when building because this can impair your judgement and even the slightest mistake can lead to a terrible injury.[25]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,544 |
How to Build a Sky Island in Minecraft
|
1. Steps
1-1. Find a good location for your island.
In Minecraft, there is a limit to how high you can build, so if you start in a mountainous area, you will have little room to build your island. The islands shown in this article will be built over the ocean; this location offers two advantages: falling into the ocean will not kill you, and sea level is a low elevation by default.
You may have to search around a little for a good place to build. As a general rule, look for the area of lowest elevation.
While Ocean biomes work well for this, Deep Oceans may cause you some trouble if you're in Survival mode. If you aren't sure of the difference, press F3 to see data for your location. The third line from the bottom will tell you what biome you are in.
1-2. Create a dirt pillar.
Dirt is best because it will not fall in the event of an accident, and it's easy to get. Place one block, stand on it, and then jump continuously (hold space bar) while placing more blocks (right click and hold). Continue until you feel you are at a sufficient height to begin building your island.
1-3. Create a platform.
Press and hold shift to crouch so you will not fall off the side, then build out from your pillar by placing blocks on all sides. This will become the lowest level of your island.
If you are using Creative mode while doing this, you can fly instead of standing on the platform.
1-4. Continue adding to your platform.
From here forward, though, make it an abnormal shape to mimic the random effects of nature.
1-5. Add a level of dirt on this in the same manner.
Make it even wider than the first level. Again, have a factor of irregularity in the process.
1-6. Continue this process for as long as you feel is necessary.
1-7. Add a layer of grass blocks on top of these.
If you are in survival, use a silk touch shovel and dig some grass blocks..You can also try hunt endermans with grass blocks in their hands to get a grass block.
Adding areas of different elevation will make it even more natural-looking.
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1-8. Add natural touches.
Put trees, tall grasses, water, and/or flowers on your island, if you want to.
1-9. Build structures.
This island will hold a small house for the player.
1-10. Add ladders and torches to the pillar.
If this will be your home in Survival mode, you will need to have a way to get up and down. The torches will make it easier to see in the shadow of your island and make it harder for monsters to spawn. If this is just a build for you or part of a challenge map, destroy the pillar.
1-11. Finished!
Tips
It is recommended that you build your sky island while on Peaceful or Easy (if in Survival) or start with a Creative world, in which you cannot die, and change it to a Survival world later on.
Adding a waterfall to the side will be beautiful and give you a way up and down.
Putting a fence around the edges of your island will keep you from accidentally falling off.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:05",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Find a good location for your island.\\nIn Minecraft, there is a limit to how high you can build, so if you start in a mountainous area, you will have little room to build your island. The islands shown in this article will be built over the ocean; this location offers two advantages: falling into the ocean will not kill you, and sea level is a low elevation by default.\\nYou may have to search around a little for a good place to build. As a general rule, look for the area of lowest elevation.\\nWhile Ocean biomes work well for this, Deep Oceans may cause you some trouble if you're in Survival mode. If you aren't sure of the difference, press F3 to see data for your location. The third line from the bottom will tell you what biome you are in.\\n1-2. Create a dirt pillar.\\nDirt is best because it will not fall in the event of an accident, and it's easy to get. Place one block, stand on it, and then jump continuously (hold space bar) while placing more blocks (right click and hold). Continue until you feel you are at a sufficient height to begin building your island.\\n1-3. Create a platform.\\nPress and hold shift to crouch so you will not fall off the side, then build out from your pillar by placing blocks on all sides. This will become the lowest level of your island.\\nIf you are using Creative mode while doing this, you can fly instead of standing on the platform.\\n1-4. Continue adding to your platform.\\nFrom here forward, though, make it an abnormal shape to mimic the random effects of nature.\\n1-5. Add a level of dirt on this in the same manner.\\nMake it even wider than the first level. Again, have a factor of irregularity in the process.\\n1-6. Continue this process for as long as you feel is necessary.\\n\\n1-7. Add a layer of grass blocks on top of these.\\nIf you are in survival, use a silk touch shovel and dig some grass blocks..You can also try hunt endermans with grass blocks in their hands to get a grass block. \\nAdding areas of different elevation will make it even more natural-looking.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/21\\\\/Build_a_Sky_Island_in_Minecraft_Step7.5.png\\\\/460px-Build_a_Sky_Island_in_Minecraft_Step7.5.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/21\\\\/Build_a_Sky_Island_in_Minecraft_Step7.5.png\\\\/728px-Build_a_Sky_Island_in_Minecraft_Step7.5.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":244,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":386,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-8. Add natural touches.\\nPut trees, tall grasses, water, and/or flowers on your island, if you want to.\\n1-9. Build structures.\\nThis island will hold a small house for the player.\\n1-10. Add ladders and torches to the pillar.\\nIf this will be your home in Survival mode, you will need to have a way to get up and down. The torches will make it easier to see in the shadow of your island and make it harder for monsters to spawn. If this is just a build for you or part of a challenge map, destroy the pillar.\\n1-11. Finished!\\n\\nTips\\nIt is recommended that you build your sky island while on Peaceful or Easy (if in Survival) or start with a Creative world, in which you cannot die, and change it to a Survival world later on.\\nAdding a waterfall to the side will be beautiful and give you a way up and down.\\nPutting a fence around the edges of your island will keep you from accidentally falling off.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Want to build a floating island in Minecraft? A floating island—also called a sky island—is a great spot for a home base in Survival, a challenge, or an incredible fantasy building in Creative. This wikiHow article will teach you how to build a floating base island in Minecraft.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a good location for your island.\", \"描述\": \"In Minecraft, there is a limit to how high you can build, so if you start in a mountainous area, you will have little room to build your island. The islands shown in this article will be built over the ocean; this location offers two advantages: falling into the ocean will not kill you, and sea level is a low elevation by default.\\nYou may have to search around a little for a good place to build. As a general rule, look for the area of lowest elevation.\\nWhile Ocean biomes work well for this, Deep Oceans may cause you some trouble if you're in Survival mode. If you aren't sure of the difference, press F3 to see data for your location. The third line from the bottom will tell you what biome you are in.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a dirt pillar.\", \"描述\": \"Dirt is best because it will not fall in the event of an accident, and it's easy to get. Place one block, stand on it, and then jump continuously (hold space bar) while placing more blocks (right click and hold). Continue until you feel you are at a sufficient height to begin building your island.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a platform.\", \"描述\": \"Press and hold shift to crouch so you will not fall off the side, then build out from your pillar by placing blocks on all sides. This will become the lowest level of your island.\\nIf you are using Creative mode while doing this, you can fly instead of standing on the platform.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Continue adding to your platform.\", \"描述\": \"From here forward, though, make it an abnormal shape to mimic the random effects of nature.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add a level of dirt on this in the same manner.\", \"描述\": \"Make it even wider than the first level. Again, have a factor of irregularity in the process.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Continue this process for as long as you feel is necessary.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add a layer of grass blocks on top of these.\", \"描述\": \"If you are in survival, use a silk touch shovel and dig some grass blocks..You can also try hunt endermans with grass blocks in their hands to get a grass block. \\nAdding areas of different elevation will make it even more natural-looking.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/21\\\\/Build_a_Sky_Island_in_Minecraft_Step7.5.png\\\\/460px-Build_a_Sky_Island_in_Minecraft_Step7.5.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/21\\\\/Build_a_Sky_Island_in_Minecraft_Step7.5.png\\\\/728px-Build_a_Sky_Island_in_Minecraft_Step7.5.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":244,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":386,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add natural touches.\", \"描述\": \"Put trees, tall grasses, water, and/or flowers on your island, if you want to.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Build structures.\", \"描述\": \"This island will hold a small house for the player.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add ladders and torches to the pillar.\", \"描述\": \"If this will be your home in Survival mode, you will need to have a way to get up and down. The torches will make it easier to see in the shadow of your island and make it harder for monsters to spawn. If this is just a build for you or part of a challenge map, destroy the pillar.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Finished!\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"It is recommended that you build your sky island while on Peaceful or Easy (if in Survival) or start with a Creative world, in which you cannot die, and change it to a Survival world later on.\\n\", \"Adding a waterfall to the side will be beautiful and give you a way up and down.\\n\", \"Putting a fence around the edges of your island will keep you from accidentally falling off.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,545 |
How to Build a Slackline
|
1. Choosing Supplies and Anchors
1-1. Choose thick tubular webbing for the slackline and slings.
Slacklines are typically made from nylon cords 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wide. You will need a long piece for the slackline and 3 smaller “slings” to anchor the line. For the main line, 50 ft (15 m) is a good length for beginners. Get shorter lines 10 to 15 ft (3.0 to 4.6 m) long.
The cords, along with other components, are available online and at outdoor activity supply stores.
Get the webbing and other supplies you need in one go by purchasing a slackline kit. Online stores and outdoor activity suppliers sell them.
You can make a slackline out of other material, including car tow lines or bungee cords.
1-2. Purchase line lockers and carabiners to connect the webbing.
Pick up 2 line lockers and 5 carabiners to set up your line. The line lockers are metal rings that prevent the slackline from coming undone. Make sure the carabiners are oval-shaped and climbing-strength to ensure they support your weight on the line.
You can also use metal rings from the hardware store or rappel rings from an outdoor activity supply store.
1-3. Select strong anchor points to tie the slackline to.
Find 2 trees, posts, concrete walls, or other solid objects. Measure the distance between them to make sure your slackline is long enough. Shorter spans are easier to learn on and allow you to keep the line closer to the ground.
For a 50 ft (15 m) line, look for anchor points about 20 to 30 ft (6.1 to 9.1 m) apart. The distance between the anchors has to be about 20 ft (6.1 m) shorter than your slackline so you can tie the line around them.
Make sure the anchors are capable of sustaining 500 to 1,000 lb (230 to 450 kg) of force. If the anchors feels loose in the ground, don’t use them. Fragile surfaces like wood walls aren’t safe anchor points.
If you don’t have anchor points available, you will need to make some. Build your own A-frames or purchase them in a kit.
2. Building A-Frame Anchors
2-1. Cut wood boards to create the A-frame components.
You will need approximately 4 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) planks about 8 ft (2.4 m) long. This will be enough to create 2 A-frame. Use a miter saw set at a 22.5 degree angle. Wear safety goggles, ear muffs, and a dust mask if you cut the boards yourself. You can also rent a saw at a home improvement store or have store employees cut the following boards:
2 planks 18 in (46 cm) long.
2 planks 20 ⁄4 in (53 cm) long.
4 planks 36 in (91 cm) long.
2 planks 37 ⁄8 in (96 cm) long.
2-2. Arrange the boards in an A-shape on a workbench.
Set the boards out on a flat surface so you can fasten them together. Work on 1 A-frame at a time. To create the frame, place the 2 medium boards on the sides. Fit the remaining boards between these medium boards. Place 1 of the long boards at the bottom, then fit the shorter boards at the top and in the middle.
Each A-frame uses 5 boards. When you’re done, the boards will create the shape of an A. Make sure all of the boards fit snugly together.
2-3. Clamp the boards and drill pilot holes through them.
Countersinking pilot holes prevents the boards from cracking and weakening. Use a drill with a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) countersink bit to drill a pair of holes in each of the middle boards. Measure about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the ends of each board, then drill the holes diagonally into the side boards.
Work from the bottom edges of lower support boards in the middle of the A-frame. For the small board at the top, drill through the side boards to reach it.
Use a pair of wood clamps to hold the boards in place as you work.
2-4. Bolt the boards together with 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) decking screws.
Place a screw in each of the pilot holes. The screws will pass through the support planks and into the frame planks on the side. Make sure the boards fit together well and feel sturdy when you try to move them. That way, they won’t fall apart when you’re walking on your slackline.
2-5. Cut plywood to fit over the A-frame.
The plywood creates a spot for you to attach the slackline and anchor lines. You will need a 8 in (20 cm) sheet of plywood ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick for each A-frame you wish to make. Set the A-frame on top of the plywood, then trace its outline with a pencil. Cut the outline using a reciprocating saw.
You can also use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut the plywood.
To avoid cutting the plywood too short, leave it a little longer than the outline. You can always cut it down further or sand it, but you can’t fix it once it’s too small for the A-frame.
2-6. Fasten the plywood to the A-frame with 2 in (5.1 cm) decking screws.
Place the plywood over the A-frame. Place a screw about every 12 in (30 cm) along each of the boards in the frame. Screw through the plywood and into the frame boards to secure everything together.
The frame boards are a little difficult to find underneath the plywood. Feel for the solid boards through the plywood. If you’re unsure, lift up the plywood to locate them. Outline them with a pencil to help you place the screws.
2-7. Drill a pair of holes through the plywood to create anchor points.
Use a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) drill bit to make the holes. Position them underneath the top board on the A-frame. Make the holes about 2 in (5.1 cm) apart. Use a reciprocating saw or another tool to remove the wood between the holes.
Basically, you create a slot in the A-frame to thread the slackline webbing through.
2-8. Tie the A-frames to anchor points using nylon webbing.
Find an anchor point for each A-frame. One way to do this is by planting metal stakes or struts firmly in the ground. Use extra line lockers and carabiners to run the webbing from the stakes to the slot in the A-frame. Make sure the stakes are well-planted so the frames can’t move when you touch them.
Another way to plant the A-frames is by burying concrete cinder blocks in your yard. Tie a chain around each cinder blocks, then run the chains to the A-frames.
To preserve the webbing for longer, sand your A-frames smooth before using them.
3. Setting up Your Slackline
3-1. Secure a sling to the first anchor point at waist height.
Position the loop of webbing about 2 to 3 ft (0.61 to 0.91 m) off the ground for a 15 to 20 ft (4.6 to 6.1 m) slackline. Loop the webbing tightly around the tree, then connect the ends with a carabiner.
Before using trees for anchors, cover the bark with padding like a towel or carpeting.
If you’re creating a longer slackline, you may need to raise the slings up further to keep the line off the ground. If the line touches the ground when you climb onto it, take it apart and raise the webbing.
3-2. Hook the slackline to the sling with a carabiner Fold the first 12 in (30 cm) of the line over on itself to create a small loop.
Push the loop through a line locker to keep the slackline secure later. Then, pull about 5 in (13 cm) of the line back around and through the line locker again to create a double loop. Clip a single carabiner to it.
Pull on the line to make sure the sling feels secure in the loop. If it feels loose, take it out of the line locker and carabiner, then knot it again.
3-3. Place a line locker and carabiner about 80% of the way from the second anchor.
Lay the slackline out on the ground between the anchor points. Walk towards the loose end of the line and the second anchor point. Estimate when 80% of the line is behind you, then pull the line through a line locker. Tie the end of the line to a carabiner using a double loop like you did earlier.
You can usually get a good estimate of where to place the line locker by looking at the line as you walk. If you need to, measure it out with a ruler or tape measure.
For example, if you’re using a 20 ft (6.1 m) line, place the line locker 15 to 16 ft (4.6 to 4.9 m) along the slackline.
3-4. Wrap 2 slings with carabiners around the far anchor point.
Place the slings on the anchor point closest to the free end of the slackline. Keep the slings close together. Connect the ends of each sling with a single carabiner. Lay the carabiners on top of one another, positioning them so the “gate” parts that open face in opposite directions.
Remember to protect trees by placing padding underneath the slings.
Test the slings when you’re done to make sure they are knotted tightly in place.
3-5. Loop the slackline around the carabiners to anchor it in place.
Bring the slackline underneath and through the lower carabiner on your anchor point. Then, pull the line back towards you and through the carabiner with the line locker. Pass the line under and through the upper carabiner on the anchor point. Finally, pull the line underneath and back through the carabiner with the line locker.
This is called a “primitive” 4-carabiner pulley system. It can be a little tricky to get at first, but it’s a safe, fun way to create a slackline without any extra tools or knots.
If you have a ratchet system, attach the ratchet to an anchor point, then feed the slackline webbing through it.
4. Tightening and Undoing the Line
4-1. Pull the line toward the far anchor to tighten it.
Grab onto the tail end of the slackline and pull it towards the first anchor with the single carabiner. Get the line moderately taught, enough to keep it from sagging. Tighter lines are better for bouncing and doing tricks. Adjust the line to get the amount of tension you desire.
If you’re using a ratchet, pull the ratchet handle down to tighten the line. Don’t tighten it too much. Keep at least a little slack in the line to prevent it from snapping.
You may need help pulling a line over 30 ft (9.1 m). Have a friend help you pull the line.
Another way to pull a long line is by installing a pulley system. Hook the pulley to the anchor point. Run a cord from the locking anchor in the line to the pulley. Then, tug the webbing through the pulley to tighten it.
4-2. Test the line by sitting or bouncing on it.
Climb onto the line. Walk across it or bounce on it a little bit to stretch out the anchors and knots. Make sure the line feels secure but doesn’t touch the ground when you walk the middle of it.
If the line needs adjustment, tug on the end of the slackline to tighten or loosen it. If you need to raise the line, loosen it first before untying the webbing around the anchors.
4-3. Release the line by pulling it in the opposite direction.
Pull the tail end of the line away from the anchor point to undo it. This is very safe and easy to do in a primitive pulley system. Once you have lowered the line, removing all tension from it, unhook the carabiners to take down all of the webbing.
If you’re using a ratchet, unlock the ratchet to release the tension. Pull the slackline out of the ratchet to take it down.
Tips
Buy more webbing than you need to span between anchor points. You need about an extra 20 ft (6.1 m) to tighten the line.
Use different colored webbing for the anchor slings and the main line. It makes sorting out your supplies much easier during setup and storage.
Have friends on hand to help you tighten out a line unless you plan on using a ratchet or installing a separate pulley.
Warnings
Slacklines generate enormous forces on the anchor points. Choose your anchors carefully to avoid damaging them or breaking the line.
Damaged webbing is very dangerous. Don’t use it in a slackline. Also, avoid using webbing and carabiners for climbing after they have been tensioned in a slackline.
Tight slacklines can snap, so be careful if you’re using a ratchet system. You can’t really overdo a line in a primitive pulley system, so tighten the line by hand if you have reservations.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:05",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing Supplies and Anchors\\n1-1. Choose thick tubular webbing for the slackline and slings.\\nSlacklines are typically made from nylon cords 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wide. You will need a long piece for the slackline and 3 smaller “slings” to anchor the line. For the main line, 50 ft (15 m) is a good length for beginners. Get shorter lines 10 to 15 ft (3.0 to 4.6 m) long.\\nThe cords, along with other components, are available online and at outdoor activity supply stores.\\nGet the webbing and other supplies you need in one go by purchasing a slackline kit. Online stores and outdoor activity suppliers sell them.\\nYou can make a slackline out of other material, including car tow lines or bungee cords.\\n1-2. Purchase line lockers and carabiners to connect the webbing.\\nPick up 2 line lockers and 5 carabiners to set up your line. The line lockers are metal rings that prevent the slackline from coming undone. Make sure the carabiners are oval-shaped and climbing-strength to ensure they support your weight on the line.\\nYou can also use metal rings from the hardware store or rappel rings from an outdoor activity supply store.\\n1-3. Select strong anchor points to tie the slackline to.\\nFind 2 trees, posts, concrete walls, or other solid objects. Measure the distance between them to make sure your slackline is long enough. Shorter spans are easier to learn on and allow you to keep the line closer to the ground.\\nFor a 50 ft (15 m) line, look for anchor points about 20 to 30 ft (6.1 to 9.1 m) apart. The distance between the anchors has to be about 20 ft (6.1 m) shorter than your slackline so you can tie the line around them.\\nMake sure the anchors are capable of sustaining 500 to 1,000 lb (230 to 450 kg) of force. If the anchors feels loose in the ground, don’t use them. Fragile surfaces like wood walls aren’t safe anchor points.\\nIf you don’t have anchor points available, you will need to make some. Build your own A-frames or purchase them in a kit.\\n2. Building A-Frame Anchors\\n2-1. Cut wood boards to create the A-frame components.\\nYou will need approximately 4 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) planks about 8 ft (2.4 m) long. This will be enough to create 2 A-frame. Use a miter saw set at a 22.5 degree angle. Wear safety goggles, ear muffs, and a dust mask if you cut the boards yourself. You can also rent a saw at a home improvement store or have store employees cut the following boards:\\n2 planks 18 in (46 cm) long.\\n2 planks 20 ⁄4 in (53 cm) long.\\n4 planks 36 in (91 cm) long.\\n2 planks 37 ⁄8 in (96 cm) long.\\n2-2. Arrange the boards in an A-shape on a workbench.\\nSet the boards out on a flat surface so you can fasten them together. Work on 1 A-frame at a time. To create the frame, place the 2 medium boards on the sides. Fit the remaining boards between these medium boards. Place 1 of the long boards at the bottom, then fit the shorter boards at the top and in the middle.\\nEach A-frame uses 5 boards. When you’re done, the boards will create the shape of an A. Make sure all of the boards fit snugly together.\\n2-3. Clamp the boards and drill pilot holes through them.\\nCountersinking pilot holes prevents the boards from cracking and weakening. Use a drill with a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) countersink bit to drill a pair of holes in each of the middle boards. Measure about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the ends of each board, then drill the holes diagonally into the side boards.\\nWork from the bottom edges of lower support boards in the middle of the A-frame. For the small board at the top, drill through the side boards to reach it.\\nUse a pair of wood clamps to hold the boards in place as you work.\\n2-4. Bolt the boards together with 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) decking screws.\\nPlace a screw in each of the pilot holes. The screws will pass through the support planks and into the frame planks on the side. Make sure the boards fit together well and feel sturdy when you try to move them. That way, they won’t fall apart when you’re walking on your slackline.\\n2-5. Cut plywood to fit over the A-frame.\\nThe plywood creates a spot for you to attach the slackline and anchor lines. You will need a 8 in (20 cm) sheet of plywood ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick for each A-frame you wish to make. Set the A-frame on top of the plywood, then trace its outline with a pencil. Cut the outline using a reciprocating saw.\\nYou can also use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut the plywood.\\nTo avoid cutting the plywood too short, leave it a little longer than the outline. You can always cut it down further or sand it, but you can’t fix it once it’s too small for the A-frame.\\n2-6. Fasten the plywood to the A-frame with 2 in (5.1 cm) decking screws.\\nPlace the plywood over the A-frame. Place a screw about every 12 in (30 cm) along each of the boards in the frame. Screw through the plywood and into the frame boards to secure everything together.\\nThe frame boards are a little difficult to find underneath the plywood. Feel for the solid boards through the plywood. If you’re unsure, lift up the plywood to locate them. Outline them with a pencil to help you place the screws.\\n2-7. Drill a pair of holes through the plywood to create anchor points.\\nUse a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) drill bit to make the holes. Position them underneath the top board on the A-frame. Make the holes about 2 in (5.1 cm) apart. Use a reciprocating saw or another tool to remove the wood between the holes.\\nBasically, you create a slot in the A-frame to thread the slackline webbing through.\\n2-8. Tie the A-frames to anchor points using nylon webbing.\\nFind an anchor point for each A-frame. One way to do this is by planting metal stakes or struts firmly in the ground. Use extra line lockers and carabiners to run the webbing from the stakes to the slot in the A-frame. Make sure the stakes are well-planted so the frames can’t move when you touch them.\\nAnother way to plant the A-frames is by burying concrete cinder blocks in your yard. Tie a chain around each cinder blocks, then run the chains to the A-frames.\\nTo preserve the webbing for longer, sand your A-frames smooth before using them.\\n3. Setting up Your Slackline\\n3-1. Secure a sling to the first anchor point at waist height.\\nPosition the loop of webbing about 2 to 3 ft (0.61 to 0.91 m) off the ground for a 15 to 20 ft (4.6 to 6.1 m) slackline. Loop the webbing tightly around the tree, then connect the ends with a carabiner.\\nBefore using trees for anchors, cover the bark with padding like a towel or carpeting.\\nIf you’re creating a longer slackline, you may need to raise the slings up further to keep the line off the ground. If the line touches the ground when you climb onto it, take it apart and raise the webbing.\\n3-2. Hook the slackline to the sling with a carabiner Fold the first 12 in (30 cm) of the line over on itself to create a small loop.\\nPush the loop through a line locker to keep the slackline secure later. Then, pull about 5 in (13 cm) of the line back around and through the line locker again to create a double loop. Clip a single carabiner to it.\\nPull on the line to make sure the sling feels secure in the loop. If it feels loose, take it out of the line locker and carabiner, then knot it again.\\n3-3. Place a line locker and carabiner about 80% of the way from the second anchor.\\nLay the slackline out on the ground between the anchor points. Walk towards the loose end of the line and the second anchor point. Estimate when 80% of the line is behind you, then pull the line through a line locker. Tie the end of the line to a carabiner using a double loop like you did earlier.\\nYou can usually get a good estimate of where to place the line locker by looking at the line as you walk. If you need to, measure it out with a ruler or tape measure.\\nFor example, if you’re using a 20 ft (6.1 m) line, place the line locker 15 to 16 ft (4.6 to 4.9 m) along the slackline.\\n3-4. Wrap 2 slings with carabiners around the far anchor point.\\nPlace the slings on the anchor point closest to the free end of the slackline. Keep the slings close together. Connect the ends of each sling with a single carabiner. Lay the carabiners on top of one another, positioning them so the “gate” parts that open face in opposite directions.\\nRemember to protect trees by placing padding underneath the slings.\\nTest the slings when you’re done to make sure they are knotted tightly in place.\\n3-5. Loop the slackline around the carabiners to anchor it in place.\\nBring the slackline underneath and through the lower carabiner on your anchor point. Then, pull the line back towards you and through the carabiner with the line locker. Pass the line under and through the upper carabiner on the anchor point. Finally, pull the line underneath and back through the carabiner with the line locker.\\nThis is called a “primitive” 4-carabiner pulley system. It can be a little tricky to get at first, but it’s a safe, fun way to create a slackline without any extra tools or knots.\\nIf you have a ratchet system, attach the ratchet to an anchor point, then feed the slackline webbing through it.\\n4. Tightening and Undoing the Line\\n4-1. Pull the line toward the far anchor to tighten it.\\nGrab onto the tail end of the slackline and pull it towards the first anchor with the single carabiner. Get the line moderately taught, enough to keep it from sagging. Tighter lines are better for bouncing and doing tricks. Adjust the line to get the amount of tension you desire.\\nIf you’re using a ratchet, pull the ratchet handle down to tighten the line. Don’t tighten it too much. Keep at least a little slack in the line to prevent it from snapping.\\nYou may need help pulling a line over 30 ft (9.1 m). Have a friend help you pull the line.\\nAnother way to pull a long line is by installing a pulley system. Hook the pulley to the anchor point. Run a cord from the locking anchor in the line to the pulley. Then, tug the webbing through the pulley to tighten it.\\n4-2. Test the line by sitting or bouncing on it.\\nClimb onto the line. Walk across it or bounce on it a little bit to stretch out the anchors and knots. Make sure the line feels secure but doesn’t touch the ground when you walk the middle of it.\\nIf the line needs adjustment, tug on the end of the slackline to tighten or loosen it. If you need to raise the line, loosen it first before untying the webbing around the anchors.\\n4-3. Release the line by pulling it in the opposite direction.\\nPull the tail end of the line away from the anchor point to undo it. This is very safe and easy to do in a primitive pulley system. Once you have lowered the line, removing all tension from it, unhook the carabiners to take down all of the webbing.\\nIf you’re using a ratchet, unlock the ratchet to release the tension. Pull the slackline out of the ratchet to take it down.\\nTips\\nBuy more webbing than you need to span between anchor points. You need about an extra 20 ft (6.1 m) to tighten the line.\\nUse different colored webbing for the anchor slings and the main line. It makes sorting out your supplies much easier during setup and storage.\\nHave friends on hand to help you tighten out a line unless you plan on using a ratchet or installing a separate pulley.\\nWarnings\\nSlacklines generate enormous forces on the anchor points. Choose your anchors carefully to avoid damaging them or breaking the line.\\nDamaged webbing is very dangerous. Don’t use it in a slackline. Also, avoid using webbing and carabiners for climbing after they have been tensioned in a slackline.\\nTight slacklines can snap, so be careful if you’re using a ratchet system. You can’t really overdo a line in a primitive pulley system, so tighten the line by hand if you have reservations.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"For many people, slacklining is a sport, a hobby, and more. It’s like tightrope walking at a safe distance from the ground and requires very little setup. In fact, you can build your own slackline at home with ordinary climbing gear. You will need to anchor the line to a couple of trees or posts to create a bouncy, tensioned line to walk. Once you have your supplies, you can set up a line within minutes.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing Supplies and Anchors\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose thick tubular webbing for the slackline and slings.\", \"描述\": \"Slacklines are typically made from nylon cords 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wide. You will need a long piece for the slackline and 3 smaller “slings” to anchor the line. For the main line, 50 ft (15 m) is a good length for beginners. Get shorter lines 10 to 15 ft (3.0 to 4.6 m) long.\\nThe cords, along with other components, are available online and at outdoor activity supply stores.\\nGet the webbing and other supplies you need in one go by purchasing a slackline kit. Online stores and outdoor activity suppliers sell them.\\nYou can make a slackline out of other material, including car tow lines or bungee cords.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase line lockers and carabiners to connect the webbing.\", \"描述\": \"Pick up 2 line lockers and 5 carabiners to set up your line. The line lockers are metal rings that prevent the slackline from coming undone. Make sure the carabiners are oval-shaped and climbing-strength to ensure they support your weight on the line.\\nYou can also use metal rings from the hardware store or rappel rings from an outdoor activity supply store.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Select strong anchor points to tie the slackline to.\", \"描述\": \"Find 2 trees, posts, concrete walls, or other solid objects. Measure the distance between them to make sure your slackline is long enough. Shorter spans are easier to learn on and allow you to keep the line closer to the ground.\\nFor a 50 ft (15 m) line, look for anchor points about 20 to 30 ft (6.1 to 9.1 m) apart. The distance between the anchors has to be about 20 ft (6.1 m) shorter than your slackline so you can tie the line around them.\\nMake sure the anchors are capable of sustaining 500 to 1,000 lb (230 to 450 kg) of force. If the anchors feels loose in the ground, don’t use them. Fragile surfaces like wood walls aren’t safe anchor points.\\nIf you don’t have anchor points available, you will need to make some. Build your own A-frames or purchase them in a kit.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building A-Frame Anchors\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut wood boards to create the A-frame components.\", \"描述\": \"You will need approximately 4 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) planks about 8 ft (2.4 m) long. This will be enough to create 2 A-frame. Use a miter saw set at a 22.5 degree angle. Wear safety goggles, ear muffs, and a dust mask if you cut the boards yourself. You can also rent a saw at a home improvement store or have store employees cut the following boards:\\n2 planks 18 in (46 cm) long.\\n2 planks 20 ⁄4 in (53 cm) long.\\n4 planks 36 in (91 cm) long.\\n2 planks 37 ⁄8 in (96 cm) long.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Arrange the boards in an A-shape on a workbench.\", \"描述\": \"Set the boards out on a flat surface so you can fasten them together. Work on 1 A-frame at a time. To create the frame, place the 2 medium boards on the sides. Fit the remaining boards between these medium boards. Place 1 of the long boards at the bottom, then fit the shorter boards at the top and in the middle.\\nEach A-frame uses 5 boards. When you’re done, the boards will create the shape of an A. Make sure all of the boards fit snugly together.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clamp the boards and drill pilot holes through them.\", \"描述\": \"Countersinking pilot holes prevents the boards from cracking and weakening. Use a drill with a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) countersink bit to drill a pair of holes in each of the middle boards. Measure about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the ends of each board, then drill the holes diagonally into the side boards.\\nWork from the bottom edges of lower support boards in the middle of the A-frame. For the small board at the top, drill through the side boards to reach it.\\nUse a pair of wood clamps to hold the boards in place as you work.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Bolt the boards together with 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) decking screws.\", \"描述\": \"Place a screw in each of the pilot holes. The screws will pass through the support planks and into the frame planks on the side. Make sure the boards fit together well and feel sturdy when you try to move them. That way, they won’t fall apart when you’re walking on your slackline.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut plywood to fit over the A-frame.\", \"描述\": \"The plywood creates a spot for you to attach the slackline and anchor lines. You will need a 8 in (20 cm) sheet of plywood ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick for each A-frame you wish to make. Set the A-frame on top of the plywood, then trace its outline with a pencil. Cut the outline using a reciprocating saw.\\nYou can also use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut the plywood.\\nTo avoid cutting the plywood too short, leave it a little longer than the outline. You can always cut it down further or sand it, but you can’t fix it once it’s too small for the A-frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fasten the plywood to the A-frame with 2 in (5.1 cm) decking screws.\", \"描述\": \"Place the plywood over the A-frame. Place a screw about every 12 in (30 cm) along each of the boards in the frame. Screw through the plywood and into the frame boards to secure everything together.\\nThe frame boards are a little difficult to find underneath the plywood. Feel for the solid boards through the plywood. If you’re unsure, lift up the plywood to locate them. Outline them with a pencil to help you place the screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Drill a pair of holes through the plywood to create anchor points.\", \"描述\": \"Use a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) drill bit to make the holes. Position them underneath the top board on the A-frame. Make the holes about 2 in (5.1 cm) apart. Use a reciprocating saw or another tool to remove the wood between the holes.\\nBasically, you create a slot in the A-frame to thread the slackline webbing through.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Tie the A-frames to anchor points using nylon webbing.\", \"描述\": \"Find an anchor point for each A-frame. One way to do this is by planting metal stakes or struts firmly in the ground. Use extra line lockers and carabiners to run the webbing from the stakes to the slot in the A-frame. Make sure the stakes are well-planted so the frames can’t move when you touch them.\\nAnother way to plant the A-frames is by burying concrete cinder blocks in your yard. Tie a chain around each cinder blocks, then run the chains to the A-frames.\\nTo preserve the webbing for longer, sand your A-frames smooth before using them.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Setting up Your Slackline\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Secure a sling to the first anchor point at waist height.\", \"描述\": \"Position the loop of webbing about 2 to 3 ft (0.61 to 0.91 m) off the ground for a 15 to 20 ft (4.6 to 6.1 m) slackline. Loop the webbing tightly around the tree, then connect the ends with a carabiner.\\nBefore using trees for anchors, cover the bark with padding like a towel or carpeting.\\nIf you’re creating a longer slackline, you may need to raise the slings up further to keep the line off the ground. If the line touches the ground when you climb onto it, take it apart and raise the webbing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hook the slackline to the sling with a carabiner Fold the first 12 in (30 cm) of the line over on itself to create a small loop.\", \"描述\": \"Push the loop through a line locker to keep the slackline secure later. Then, pull about 5 in (13 cm) of the line back around and through the line locker again to create a double loop. Clip a single carabiner to it.\\nPull on the line to make sure the sling feels secure in the loop. If it feels loose, take it out of the line locker and carabiner, then knot it again.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place a line locker and carabiner about 80% of the way from the second anchor.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the slackline out on the ground between the anchor points. Walk towards the loose end of the line and the second anchor point. Estimate when 80% of the line is behind you, then pull the line through a line locker. Tie the end of the line to a carabiner using a double loop like you did earlier.\\nYou can usually get a good estimate of where to place the line locker by looking at the line as you walk. If you need to, measure it out with a ruler or tape measure.\\nFor example, if you’re using a 20 ft (6.1 m) line, place the line locker 15 to 16 ft (4.6 to 4.9 m) along the slackline.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wrap 2 slings with carabiners around the far anchor point.\", \"描述\": \"Place the slings on the anchor point closest to the free end of the slackline. Keep the slings close together. Connect the ends of each sling with a single carabiner. Lay the carabiners on top of one another, positioning them so the “gate” parts that open face in opposite directions.\\nRemember to protect trees by placing padding underneath the slings.\\nTest the slings when you’re done to make sure they are knotted tightly in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Loop the slackline around the carabiners to anchor it in place.\", \"描述\": \"Bring the slackline underneath and through the lower carabiner on your anchor point. Then, pull the line back towards you and through the carabiner with the line locker. Pass the line under and through the upper carabiner on the anchor point. Finally, pull the line underneath and back through the carabiner with the line locker.\\nThis is called a “primitive” 4-carabiner pulley system. It can be a little tricky to get at first, but it’s a safe, fun way to create a slackline without any extra tools or knots.\\nIf you have a ratchet system, attach the ratchet to an anchor point, then feed the slackline webbing through it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tightening and Undoing the Line\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pull the line toward the far anchor to tighten it.\", \"描述\": \"Grab onto the tail end of the slackline and pull it towards the first anchor with the single carabiner. Get the line moderately taught, enough to keep it from sagging. Tighter lines are better for bouncing and doing tricks. Adjust the line to get the amount of tension you desire.\\nIf you’re using a ratchet, pull the ratchet handle down to tighten the line. Don’t tighten it too much. Keep at least a little slack in the line to prevent it from snapping.\\nYou may need help pulling a line over 30 ft (9.1 m). Have a friend help you pull the line.\\nAnother way to pull a long line is by installing a pulley system. Hook the pulley to the anchor point. Run a cord from the locking anchor in the line to the pulley. Then, tug the webbing through the pulley to tighten it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Test the line by sitting or bouncing on it.\", \"描述\": \"Climb onto the line. Walk across it or bounce on it a little bit to stretch out the anchors and knots. Make sure the line feels secure but doesn’t touch the ground when you walk the middle of it.\\nIf the line needs adjustment, tug on the end of the slackline to tighten or loosen it. If you need to raise the line, loosen it first before untying the webbing around the anchors.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Release the line by pulling it in the opposite direction.\", \"描述\": \"Pull the tail end of the line away from the anchor point to undo it. This is very safe and easy to do in a primitive pulley system. Once you have lowered the line, removing all tension from it, unhook the carabiners to take down all of the webbing.\\nIf you’re using a ratchet, unlock the ratchet to release the tension. Pull the slackline out of the ratchet to take it down.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Buy more webbing than you need to span between anchor points. You need about an extra 20 ft (6.1 m) to tighten the line.\\n\", \"Use different colored webbing for the anchor slings and the main line. It makes sorting out your supplies much easier during setup and storage.\\n\", \"Have friends on hand to help you tighten out a line unless you plan on using a ratchet or installing a separate pulley.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Slacklines generate enormous forces on the anchor points. Choose your anchors carefully to avoid damaging them or breaking the line.\\n\", \"Damaged webbing is very dangerous. Don’t use it in a slackline. Also, avoid using webbing and carabiners for climbing after they have been tensioned in a slackline.\\n\", \"Tight slacklines can snap, so be careful if you’re using a ratchet system. You can’t really overdo a line in a primitive pulley system, so tighten the line by hand if you have reservations.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,546 |
How to Build a Small Chick Brooder
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1. Using a Plastic Tote Bin
1-1. Cut a 12 in × 20 in (30 cm × 51 cm) hole in the lid of a large plastic tote.
Use a plastic tote bin that's at least 25 × 16 × 14 in (64 × 41 × 36 cm) in size. Make your measurements in the middle of the lid and use a utility knife to cut your hole. The hole will provide fresh air for your new chicks.
1-2. Saw 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) wood strips to make a border around your hole.
Use a saw to cut 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) wood posts into 2 pieces that are 24 in (61 cm) long and 2 pieces that are 12 in (30 cm) long. These pieces will create a border around your hole that holds the chicken wire.
Wear safety glasses while working with a saw.
1-3. Cut a piece of chicken wire large enough to cover the hole in the lid.
Use a pair of scissors to cut a piece of chicken wire that's 13 in × 21 in (33 cm × 53 cm). The chicken wire prevents anything from getting in or out of your brooder. Once the piece is cut to size, set it aside for now.
Chicken wire can be purchased from yard care stores.
1-4. Drill 1 hole through each end of the wood strips and the tote lid.
Clamp the wooden pieces around the hole in your lid so they are held tightly together. Drill a hole through the end of each board so the hole goes through the lid. When you're finished, your lid should have 8 holes.
1-5. Sandwich the chicken wire between the lid and the wood.
Put the chicken wire over the hole so they overlap the top of the lid by 1 in (2.5 cm). Then set the boards on top so they line up with the holes in the lid.
1-6. Feed bolts through the holes in your wood and lid.
Slide a bolt through each hole so they go through the boards and lid. Make sure the chicken wire doesn't move or shift when you place the bolts. If the wire blocks the bolt from going through, bend it with your fingers until it's out of the way.
Make sure the bolts have a blunt end so they don't hurt your chicks if they jump or fly near them.
1-7. Tighten nuts on the bottom of the lid to secure it.
Slide a washer onto the bolts from the bottom of the lid. Thread the nuts onto the bolts and tighten them by hand. When you get near the lid, use a wrench to tighten them so the boards hold the chicken wire in place. Click the lid onto the tote bin to finish your brooder.
Adding washers helps prevent any damage to the wood or lid as you tighten the nuts.
2. Building a Wooden Brooder
2-1. Cut your plywood to size with a saw.
Purchase 1 sheet of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood that's 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m). Use a circular saw to cut your plywood into 3 pieces that are 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) and 2 pieces that are 2 ft × 2 ft (61 cm × 61 cm).
The final dimensions of this brooder are 2 × 2 × 4 ft (0.61 × 0.61 × 1.22 m) and it can hold up to 100 chicks. If you are brooding less chicks, then you can adjust the dimensions so there is 6 sq in (39 cm) of floor space for each chick.
2-2. Attach 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wood pieces to the ends of the long wall pieces.
Cut 4 pieces of 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wooden posts so they're 2 ft (0.61 m) long with your circular saw. Place each of the posts on the short ends of 2 of your 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) wall pieces. Use 1 ⁄8 in (4.1 cm) screws and a drill to secure the posts to the walls.
The posts make it easier to attach the other wall pieces and bottom to your brooder.
2-3. Screw the wall pieces and bottom together.
Start by assembling all of the walls before attaching the bottom. Attach the 2 ft × 2 ft (61 cm × 61 cm) pieces into the posts on your 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) pieces with screws. Make sure your corners are flush as you assemble all the walls. Once the 4 walls are assembled, set the last 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) piece on top and screw it every 6 in (15 cm) along your walls.
2-4. Make a top piece with 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) and chicken wire.
Cut 2 pieces of 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wooden posts so they're 4 ft (1.2 m) long and 2 pieces that are 2 ft (0.61 m) long. Assemble the frame together so it fits perfectly on top of your brooder. Use 2 screws on each end to attach the posts together. Staple chicken wire every 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) along the top so the entire top is covered.
Never leave the top uncovered since your chicks may be able to jump or fly out at an early age.
2-5. Attach the top piece of your brooder with hinges so you can open it.
Set your top piece on your brooder so the edges are flush. Put 3 hinges along one of the long sides of the top so they're 1 ⁄2 ft (46 cm) apart. Screw the hinges into the top piece as well as the plywood walls so you can easily open and close your brooder.
3. Setting up the Brooder
3-1. Fill the bottom of your brooder with paper towels and pine shavings.
Put 2-3 layers of paper towel on the bottom of your brooder to absorb your chick's waste. After your chicks are in the brooder for about 5 days, put in a 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) layer of pine shavings on the bottom to make a comfortable bedding.
You can also use absorbent puppy training pads to line the bottom of your brooder to the chick's waste is absorbed.
Never use newspaper or hay for bedding since it could cause injury or give your chicks diseases.
3-2. Point a heat lamp on one side of your brooder to keep the chicks warm.
It's important for chicks to stay warm while they're young so they can survive. Use a ceramic heat lamp that doesn't emit any light to warm one side of your brooder. This way, your chicks can go to a cooler area of the brooder if they start to overheat.
Keep the lamp above the chicken wire so your chicks don't fly into it or burn themselves.
Make sure the wire doesn't hang into the brooder or else the chicks may try to peck it.
3-3. Provide food and water for your chicks.
Don't use a dish or saucer for your water since it will get dirty quickly. Instead, use a bottle waterer so the water is stored off of the ground. Set out a dish of specialty chick feed so they can eat whenever they want.
Chick feed can be purchased from a farm or animal care store.
Check food and water levels daily so your chicks always have access to it.
3-4. Put a branch in the brooder to create a roost.
Lay a branch on one side of your brooder so it's 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) off of the floor. This gives your chicks a place for them to roost together and an area to play.
If you do not have a branch, you can also use a wooden dowel in its place.
Warnings
Always wear safety glasses when you're working with power tools.
Make sure your heat lamp is outside of the brooder so it doesn't break or burn your chicks.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:05",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Using a Plastic Tote Bin\\n1-1. Cut a 12 in × 20 in (30 cm × 51 cm) hole in the lid of a large plastic tote.\\nUse a plastic tote bin that's at least 25 × 16 × 14 in (64 × 41 × 36 cm) in size. Make your measurements in the middle of the lid and use a utility knife to cut your hole. The hole will provide fresh air for your new chicks.\\n1-2. Saw 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) wood strips to make a border around your hole.\\nUse a saw to cut 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) wood posts into 2 pieces that are 24 in (61 cm) long and 2 pieces that are 12 in (30 cm) long. These pieces will create a border around your hole that holds the chicken wire.\\nWear safety glasses while working with a saw.\\n1-3. Cut a piece of chicken wire large enough to cover the hole in the lid.\\nUse a pair of scissors to cut a piece of chicken wire that's 13 in × 21 in (33 cm × 53 cm). The chicken wire prevents anything from getting in or out of your brooder. Once the piece is cut to size, set it aside for now.\\nChicken wire can be purchased from yard care stores.\\n1-4. Drill 1 hole through each end of the wood strips and the tote lid.\\nClamp the wooden pieces around the hole in your lid so they are held tightly together. Drill a hole through the end of each board so the hole goes through the lid. When you're finished, your lid should have 8 holes.\\n1-5. Sandwich the chicken wire between the lid and the wood.\\nPut the chicken wire over the hole so they overlap the top of the lid by 1 in (2.5 cm). Then set the boards on top so they line up with the holes in the lid.\\n1-6. Feed bolts through the holes in your wood and lid.\\nSlide a bolt through each hole so they go through the boards and lid. Make sure the chicken wire doesn't move or shift when you place the bolts. If the wire blocks the bolt from going through, bend it with your fingers until it's out of the way.\\nMake sure the bolts have a blunt end so they don't hurt your chicks if they jump or fly near them.\\n1-7. Tighten nuts on the bottom of the lid to secure it.\\nSlide a washer onto the bolts from the bottom of the lid. Thread the nuts onto the bolts and tighten them by hand. When you get near the lid, use a wrench to tighten them so the boards hold the chicken wire in place. Click the lid onto the tote bin to finish your brooder.\\nAdding washers helps prevent any damage to the wood or lid as you tighten the nuts.\\n2. Building a Wooden Brooder\\n2-1. Cut your plywood to size with a saw.\\nPurchase 1 sheet of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood that's 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m). Use a circular saw to cut your plywood into 3 pieces that are 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) and 2 pieces that are 2 ft × 2 ft (61 cm × 61 cm).\\nThe final dimensions of this brooder are 2 × 2 × 4 ft (0.61 × 0.61 × 1.22 m) and it can hold up to 100 chicks. If you are brooding less chicks, then you can adjust the dimensions so there is 6 sq in (39 cm) of floor space for each chick.\\n2-2. Attach 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wood pieces to the ends of the long wall pieces.\\nCut 4 pieces of 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wooden posts so they're 2 ft (0.61 m) long with your circular saw. Place each of the posts on the short ends of 2 of your 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) wall pieces. Use 1 ⁄8 in (4.1 cm) screws and a drill to secure the posts to the walls.\\nThe posts make it easier to attach the other wall pieces and bottom to your brooder.\\n2-3. Screw the wall pieces and bottom together.\\nStart by assembling all of the walls before attaching the bottom. Attach the 2 ft × 2 ft (61 cm × 61 cm) pieces into the posts on your 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) pieces with screws. Make sure your corners are flush as you assemble all the walls. Once the 4 walls are assembled, set the last 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) piece on top and screw it every 6 in (15 cm) along your walls.\\n2-4. Make a top piece with 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) and chicken wire.\\nCut 2 pieces of 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wooden posts so they're 4 ft (1.2 m) long and 2 pieces that are 2 ft (0.61 m) long. Assemble the frame together so it fits perfectly on top of your brooder. Use 2 screws on each end to attach the posts together. Staple chicken wire every 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) along the top so the entire top is covered.\\nNever leave the top uncovered since your chicks may be able to jump or fly out at an early age.\\n2-5. Attach the top piece of your brooder with hinges so you can open it.\\nSet your top piece on your brooder so the edges are flush. Put 3 hinges along one of the long sides of the top so they're 1 ⁄2 ft (46 cm) apart. Screw the hinges into the top piece as well as the plywood walls so you can easily open and close your brooder.\\n3. Setting up the Brooder\\n3-1. Fill the bottom of your brooder with paper towels and pine shavings.\\nPut 2-3 layers of paper towel on the bottom of your brooder to absorb your chick's waste. After your chicks are in the brooder for about 5 days, put in a 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) layer of pine shavings on the bottom to make a comfortable bedding.\\nYou can also use absorbent puppy training pads to line the bottom of your brooder to the chick's waste is absorbed.\\nNever use newspaper or hay for bedding since it could cause injury or give your chicks diseases.\\n3-2. Point a heat lamp on one side of your brooder to keep the chicks warm.\\nIt's important for chicks to stay warm while they're young so they can survive. Use a ceramic heat lamp that doesn't emit any light to warm one side of your brooder. This way, your chicks can go to a cooler area of the brooder if they start to overheat.\\nKeep the lamp above the chicken wire so your chicks don't fly into it or burn themselves.\\nMake sure the wire doesn't hang into the brooder or else the chicks may try to peck it.\\n3-3. Provide food and water for your chicks.\\nDon't use a dish or saucer for your water since it will get dirty quickly. Instead, use a bottle waterer so the water is stored off of the ground. Set out a dish of specialty chick feed so they can eat whenever they want.\\nChick feed can be purchased from a farm or animal care store.\\nCheck food and water levels daily so your chicks always have access to it.\\n3-4. Put a branch in the brooder to create a roost.\\nLay a branch on one side of your brooder so it's 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) off of the floor. This gives your chicks a place for them to roost together and an area to play.\\nIf you do not have a branch, you can also use a wooden dowel in its place.\\nWarnings\\nAlways wear safety glasses when you're working with power tools.\\nMake sure your heat lamp is outside of the brooder so it doesn't break or burn your chicks.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Chick brooders help young birds feel comfortable as they grow up. While you can buy pre-made brooders, it's easy building a small cage container yourself! You can use either a plastic tote or make your brooder out of wood using a few simple tools. No matter what you use to build your chick brooder, make sure to provide bedding, heat, as well as food and water for your chicks!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Using a Plastic Tote Bin\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut a 12 in × 20 in (30 cm × 51 cm) hole in the lid of a large plastic tote.\", \"描述\": \"Use a plastic tote bin that's at least 25 × 16 × 14 in (64 × 41 × 36 cm) in size. Make your measurements in the middle of the lid and use a utility knife to cut your hole. The hole will provide fresh air for your new chicks.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Saw 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) wood strips to make a border around your hole.\", \"描述\": \"Use a saw to cut 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) wood posts into 2 pieces that are 24 in (61 cm) long and 2 pieces that are 12 in (30 cm) long. These pieces will create a border around your hole that holds the chicken wire.\\nWear safety glasses while working with a saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut a piece of chicken wire large enough to cover the hole in the lid.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pair of scissors to cut a piece of chicken wire that's 13 in × 21 in (33 cm × 53 cm). The chicken wire prevents anything from getting in or out of your brooder. Once the piece is cut to size, set it aside for now.\\nChicken wire can be purchased from yard care stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill 1 hole through each end of the wood strips and the tote lid.\", \"描述\": \"Clamp the wooden pieces around the hole in your lid so they are held tightly together. Drill a hole through the end of each board so the hole goes through the lid. When you're finished, your lid should have 8 holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Sandwich the chicken wire between the lid and the wood.\", \"描述\": \"Put the chicken wire over the hole so they overlap the top of the lid by 1 in (2.5 cm). Then set the boards on top so they line up with the holes in the lid.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Feed bolts through the holes in your wood and lid.\", \"描述\": \"Slide a bolt through each hole so they go through the boards and lid. Make sure the chicken wire doesn't move or shift when you place the bolts. If the wire blocks the bolt from going through, bend it with your fingers until it's out of the way.\\nMake sure the bolts have a blunt end so they don't hurt your chicks if they jump or fly near them.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tighten nuts on the bottom of the lid to secure it.\", \"描述\": \"Slide a washer onto the bolts from the bottom of the lid. Thread the nuts onto the bolts and tighten them by hand. When you get near the lid, use a wrench to tighten them so the boards hold the chicken wire in place. Click the lid onto the tote bin to finish your brooder.\\nAdding washers helps prevent any damage to the wood or lid as you tighten the nuts.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Wooden Brooder\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut your plywood to size with a saw.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase 1 sheet of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood that's 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m). Use a circular saw to cut your plywood into 3 pieces that are 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) and 2 pieces that are 2 ft × 2 ft (61 cm × 61 cm).\\nThe final dimensions of this brooder are 2 × 2 × 4 ft (0.61 × 0.61 × 1.22 m) and it can hold up to 100 chicks. If you are brooding less chicks, then you can adjust the dimensions so there is 6 sq in (39 cm) of floor space for each chick.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wood pieces to the ends of the long wall pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 4 pieces of 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wooden posts so they're 2 ft (0.61 m) long with your circular saw. Place each of the posts on the short ends of 2 of your 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) wall pieces. Use 1 ⁄8 in (4.1 cm) screws and a drill to secure the posts to the walls.\\nThe posts make it easier to attach the other wall pieces and bottom to your brooder.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw the wall pieces and bottom together.\", \"描述\": \"Start by assembling all of the walls before attaching the bottom. Attach the 2 ft × 2 ft (61 cm × 61 cm) pieces into the posts on your 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) pieces with screws. Make sure your corners are flush as you assemble all the walls. Once the 4 walls are assembled, set the last 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) piece on top and screw it every 6 in (15 cm) along your walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make a top piece with 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) and chicken wire.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 2 pieces of 2 in × 2 in (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wooden posts so they're 4 ft (1.2 m) long and 2 pieces that are 2 ft (0.61 m) long. Assemble the frame together so it fits perfectly on top of your brooder. Use 2 screws on each end to attach the posts together. Staple chicken wire every 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) along the top so the entire top is covered.\\nNever leave the top uncovered since your chicks may be able to jump or fly out at an early age.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the top piece of your brooder with hinges so you can open it.\", \"描述\": \"Set your top piece on your brooder so the edges are flush. Put 3 hinges along one of the long sides of the top so they're 1 ⁄2 ft (46 cm) apart. Screw the hinges into the top piece as well as the plywood walls so you can easily open and close your brooder.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Setting up the Brooder\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fill the bottom of your brooder with paper towels and pine shavings.\", \"描述\": \"Put 2-3 layers of paper towel on the bottom of your brooder to absorb your chick's waste. After your chicks are in the brooder for about 5 days, put in a 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) layer of pine shavings on the bottom to make a comfortable bedding.\\nYou can also use absorbent puppy training pads to line the bottom of your brooder to the chick's waste is absorbed.\\nNever use newspaper or hay for bedding since it could cause injury or give your chicks diseases.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Point a heat lamp on one side of your brooder to keep the chicks warm.\", \"描述\": \"It's important for chicks to stay warm while they're young so they can survive. Use a ceramic heat lamp that doesn't emit any light to warm one side of your brooder. This way, your chicks can go to a cooler area of the brooder if they start to overheat.\\nKeep the lamp above the chicken wire so your chicks don't fly into it or burn themselves.\\nMake sure the wire doesn't hang into the brooder or else the chicks may try to peck it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Provide food and water for your chicks.\", \"描述\": \"Don't use a dish or saucer for your water since it will get dirty quickly. Instead, use a bottle waterer so the water is stored off of the ground. Set out a dish of specialty chick feed so they can eat whenever they want.\\nChick feed can be purchased from a farm or animal care store.\\nCheck food and water levels daily so your chicks always have access to it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put a branch in the brooder to create a roost.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a branch on one side of your brooder so it's 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) off of the floor. This gives your chicks a place for them to roost together and an area to play.\\nIf you do not have a branch, you can also use a wooden dowel in its place.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Always wear safety glasses when you're working with power tools.\\n\", \"Make sure your heat lamp is outside of the brooder so it doesn't break or burn your chicks.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,547 |
How to Build a Small Garden Path
|
1. Steps
1-1. Lay out your path.
If you are making a winding path, a garden hose makes a nice flexible line, but you can also use spray paint directly on the ground or stakes and string.
1-2. Calculate how many square feet the path will be.
Determine how much material you will need. One way, if you use found materials like rocks, simply keep collecting it and laying it out on the proposed path until you have enough. If you are buying pavers, the home and garden shop has calculators for figuring the number you need. Always figure a minimum of 10% waste when ordering the pavers. A bag of sand from the home improvement store contains 6-7 square feet of sand 1-inch thick. (Read the label!) Divide your square footage by 6 or 7 to find the number of bags. If you need it in tons, ask the distributor to figure it for you, keeping in mind that your sand bed is 1” thick by the square footage of your path. However you buy sand, add extra for leveling the path and filling between the stones. Mortar sand, which is finer grained than all purpose sand, is good for filling joints, especially tight ones.
1-3. Before you start digging the path, be sure there are no utilities or irrigation lines in the area where you are putting your path.
Be sure to call the “Call Before You Dig” number from your local utility company especially if you are adding a compacted base and will be digging quite a way into the dirt. You will have to locate your own irrigation lines.
1-4. Remove the existing sod and soil using flat shovels.
Keep in mind the thickness of the paving material you are using when determining the depth to which you have to dig. You will need 1-inch for the sand bed plus the thickness of the paver. If you are using a compacted base, don't forget to add that in. You will need 1 in. thick sand +~2 3/8 in. thick pavers =~3 in. depth for excavation since there will be slight settlement of the sand when the pavers are compacted into it. Be sure to get rid of the excavated soil etc. so that the ground will drain correctly. Don't pile it up around the path.
1-5. Once the area is excavated, be sure the soil below is slightly damp and compact the soil using a heavy flat object or the plate compactor.
Check the slope if you are putting your path directly against your house to be sure water will drain away from the foundation. For every foot, there should be a 1/4 in. drop. Adjust slope as needed.
1-6. Place at least two pipes directly on the compacted soil.
Place them apart and parallel to each other. Spread moist but not saturated sand between the pipes. Use a shovel and rake to smooth out. Pull the straight piece of wood across the pipes several times until sand is perfectly smooth. Do this for the entire area. Remove the pipes and fill the indentations with sand. Level these areas with a square trowel. Don't walk on or disturb the leveled sand.
1-7. Place a border course of pavers around the entire edge, then place the rest in the desired pattern.
Continue to place pavers on the sand, but don't drag them into the sand. Use the other pavers on the sand as means to locate the one you're placing. Cut pavers as needed.
1-8. Compact the pavers using something heavy and flat.
(A plate compactor should definitely be used for large surfaces to be sure that you don't end up with tripping hazards). Jumping up and down on the pavers until they are level works fine in small areas. Make at least four passes over all the pavers, starting at the outside of the pavement and working around the edges toward the inside. Then compact back and forth like mowing the grass. If you want to, you can remove and replace any pavers that crack or chip. Adjust joints. A large screwdriver is good for aligning paver joints.
1-9. Spread dry joint sand over the surface and sweep some into the joints.
Vibrate and compact the sand into the joints, sweeping and compacting as you go. Filling the joints with sand will take several passes. After compaction, the sand in the joints might settle, especially after a few rainstorms. Apply some extra sand to fill these joints as needed. Remove excess sand by sweeping. Apply a sealer if you want.
Tips
Planting low border plants on each side makes your path even prettier.
Use large rocks to border your path to keep the pavers or other path materials in place and creates a more rustic appearance.
Warnings
If you are in a cold or damp climate, you should first install a compacted base, which is not covered here. You can install a path without a base, but you will probably end up re-leveling it after the first winter. Ask your garden shop for the information on how to install a compacted base.
Avoid using pavers, stones or tiles that are smooth or rounded on top as they may create a slippery, dangerous pathway.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:05",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Lay out your path.\\nIf you are making a winding path, a garden hose makes a nice flexible line, but you can also use spray paint directly on the ground or stakes and string.\\n1-2. Calculate how many square feet the path will be.\\nDetermine how much material you will need. One way, if you use found materials like rocks, simply keep collecting it and laying it out on the proposed path until you have enough. If you are buying pavers, the home and garden shop has calculators for figuring the number you need. Always figure a minimum of 10% waste when ordering the pavers. A bag of sand from the home improvement store contains 6-7 square feet of sand 1-inch thick. (Read the label!) Divide your square footage by 6 or 7 to find the number of bags. If you need it in tons, ask the distributor to figure it for you, keeping in mind that your sand bed is 1” thick by the square footage of your path. However you buy sand, add extra for leveling the path and filling between the stones. Mortar sand, which is finer grained than all purpose sand, is good for filling joints, especially tight ones.\\n1-3. Before you start digging the path, be sure there are no utilities or irrigation lines in the area where you are putting your path.\\nBe sure to call the “Call Before You Dig” number from your local utility company especially if you are adding a compacted base and will be digging quite a way into the dirt. You will have to locate your own irrigation lines.\\n1-4. Remove the existing sod and soil using flat shovels.\\nKeep in mind the thickness of the paving material you are using when determining the depth to which you have to dig. You will need 1-inch for the sand bed plus the thickness of the paver. If you are using a compacted base, don't forget to add that in. You will need 1 in. thick sand +~2 3/8 in. thick pavers =~3 in. depth for excavation since there will be slight settlement of the sand when the pavers are compacted into it. Be sure to get rid of the excavated soil etc. so that the ground will drain correctly. Don't pile it up around the path.\\n1-5. Once the area is excavated, be sure the soil below is slightly damp and compact the soil using a heavy flat object or the plate compactor.\\nCheck the slope if you are putting your path directly against your house to be sure water will drain away from the foundation. For every foot, there should be a 1/4 in. drop. Adjust slope as needed.\\n1-6. Place at least two pipes directly on the compacted soil.\\nPlace them apart and parallel to each other. Spread moist but not saturated sand between the pipes. Use a shovel and rake to smooth out. Pull the straight piece of wood across the pipes several times until sand is perfectly smooth. Do this for the entire area. Remove the pipes and fill the indentations with sand. Level these areas with a square trowel. Don't walk on or disturb the leveled sand.\\n1-7. Place a border course of pavers around the entire edge, then place the rest in the desired pattern.\\nContinue to place pavers on the sand, but don't drag them into the sand. Use the other pavers on the sand as means to locate the one you're placing. Cut pavers as needed.\\n1-8. Compact the pavers using something heavy and flat.\\n(A plate compactor should definitely be used for large surfaces to be sure that you don't end up with tripping hazards). Jumping up and down on the pavers until they are level works fine in small areas. Make at least four passes over all the pavers, starting at the outside of the pavement and working around the edges toward the inside. Then compact back and forth like mowing the grass. If you want to, you can remove and replace any pavers that crack or chip. Adjust joints. A large screwdriver is good for aligning paver joints.\\n1-9. Spread dry joint sand over the surface and sweep some into the joints.\\nVibrate and compact the sand into the joints, sweeping and compacting as you go. Filling the joints with sand will take several passes. After compaction, the sand in the joints might settle, especially after a few rainstorms. Apply some extra sand to fill these joints as needed. Remove excess sand by sweeping. Apply a sealer if you want.\\nTips\\nPlanting low border plants on each side makes your path even prettier.\\nUse large rocks to border your path to keep the pavers or other path materials in place and creates a more rustic appearance.\\nWarnings\\nIf you are in a cold or damp climate, you should first install a compacted base, which is not covered here. You can install a path without a base, but you will probably end up re-leveling it after the first winter. Ask your garden shop for the information on how to install a compacted base.\\nAvoid using pavers, stones or tiles that are smooth or rounded on top as they may create a slippery, dangerous pathway.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This describes how to install a small path made of rustic materials through your garden.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out your path.\", \"描述\": \"If you are making a winding path, a garden hose makes a nice flexible line, but you can also use spray paint directly on the ground or stakes and string.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Calculate how many square feet the path will be.\", \"描述\": \"Determine how much material you will need. One way, if you use found materials like rocks, simply keep collecting it and laying it out on the proposed path until you have enough. If you are buying pavers, the home and garden shop has calculators for figuring the number you need. Always figure a minimum of 10% waste when ordering the pavers. A bag of sand from the home improvement store contains 6-7 square feet of sand 1-inch thick. (Read the label!) Divide your square footage by 6 or 7 to find the number of bags. If you need it in tons, ask the distributor to figure it for you, keeping in mind that your sand bed is 1” thick by the square footage of your path. However you buy sand, add extra for leveling the path and filling between the stones. Mortar sand, which is finer grained than all purpose sand, is good for filling joints, especially tight ones.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Before you start digging the path, be sure there are no utilities or irrigation lines in the area where you are putting your path.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to call the “Call Before You Dig” number from your local utility company especially if you are adding a compacted base and will be digging quite a way into the dirt. You will have to locate your own irrigation lines.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Remove the existing sod and soil using flat shovels.\", \"描述\": \"Keep in mind the thickness of the paving material you are using when determining the depth to which you have to dig. You will need 1-inch for the sand bed plus the thickness of the paver. If you are using a compacted base, don't forget to add that in. You will need 1 in. thick sand +~2 3/8 in. thick pavers =~3 in. depth for excavation since there will be slight settlement of the sand when the pavers are compacted into it. Be sure to get rid of the excavated soil etc. so that the ground will drain correctly. Don't pile it up around the path.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Once the area is excavated, be sure the soil below is slightly damp and compact the soil using a heavy flat object or the plate compactor.\", \"描述\": \"Check the slope if you are putting your path directly against your house to be sure water will drain away from the foundation. For every foot, there should be a 1/4 in. drop. Adjust slope as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place at least two pipes directly on the compacted soil.\", \"描述\": \"Place them apart and parallel to each other. Spread moist but not saturated sand between the pipes. Use a shovel and rake to smooth out. Pull the straight piece of wood across the pipes several times until sand is perfectly smooth. Do this for the entire area. Remove the pipes and fill the indentations with sand. Level these areas with a square trowel. Don't walk on or disturb the leveled sand.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place a border course of pavers around the entire edge, then place the rest in the desired pattern.\", \"描述\": \"Continue to place pavers on the sand, but don't drag them into the sand. Use the other pavers on the sand as means to locate the one you're placing. Cut pavers as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Compact the pavers using something heavy and flat.\", \"描述\": \"(A plate compactor should definitely be used for large surfaces to be sure that you don't end up with tripping hazards). Jumping up and down on the pavers until they are level works fine in small areas. Make at least four passes over all the pavers, starting at the outside of the pavement and working around the edges toward the inside. Then compact back and forth like mowing the grass. If you want to, you can remove and replace any pavers that crack or chip. Adjust joints. A large screwdriver is good for aligning paver joints.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Spread dry joint sand over the surface and sweep some into the joints.\", \"描述\": \"Vibrate and compact the sand into the joints, sweeping and compacting as you go. Filling the joints with sand will take several passes. After compaction, the sand in the joints might settle, especially after a few rainstorms. Apply some extra sand to fill these joints as needed. Remove excess sand by sweeping. Apply a sealer if you want.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Planting low border plants on each side makes your path even prettier.\\n\", \"Use large rocks to border your path to keep the pavers or other path materials in place and creates a more rustic appearance.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you are in a cold or damp climate, you should first install a compacted base, which is not covered here. You can install a path without a base, but you will probably end up re-leveling it after the first winter. Ask your garden shop for the information on how to install a compacted base.\\n\", \"Avoid using pavers, stones or tiles that are smooth or rounded on top as they may create a slippery, dangerous pathway.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,548 |
How to Build a Small Pad With Landscape Timbers
|
1. Steps
1-1. Purchase your landscape timbers, steel rod (rebar), and landscape spikes (giant nails).
Landscape timbers come in 8' lengths, so to make things easy, with less cutting, try a pad that's in dimensions of 8' or 12', such as 8' x 8', 8' x 12', or 12' x 12'. The above pad is 12' x 12'. Anything much larger and you will need 'deadmen' laid into the pad for lateral stability.
1-2. Start with the lowest elevation for building your retaining wall.
In a 12' x 12' pad, this wall will begin with one full timber and one half a timber laid in a line. Timbers can easily be cut with a handsaw. This bottom row can either be dug in and laid on grade, or propped up on solid rocks to keep moisture away. Landscape timbers are surface treated for outdoor use. Get the row level with a 4' to 6' level - pound it into position with a rubber mallet if necessary.
1-3. Anchor the row into the ground.
For this drill a hole 6" from each end of the timber, and for the 8' piece, one in the center. Drill a hole 1/16" smaller than the diameter of your rod (1/2" rod is ideal, but it's harder to cut with bolt cutters - 3/8" rod will work also). This is so the rod will be snug in the timber. Cut your rod so that it will be driven at least 1' to 1 1/2' into the earth, plus the height of the timber (3"). Pound the rod down and through your timber until the top of the rod is flush with the top of the timber. The rod has no head on it, so it won't hold the timber down - but it will hold it laterally and keep the timber from moving side to side. This will keep pressure from fill from pushing the wall out.
1-4. Begin the edge walls.
The retaining wall is designed like a giant 'U', with the edges of the 'U' keying in to the soil and holding the main wall upright. Take an 8' piece and start it above one corner of your bottom row, perpendicular to it, and run it until it terminates completely underground. Depending on your grade, 8' might be too long - a 4' piece might work better. Anchor the timber into the soil with rod, and where it rests above the corner of the bottom row, attach it with a landscape spike. Landscape spikes are heavy-duty nails - try to stay away from the edge of the timber and drive them slowly. A 2 lb sledge works well.
1-5. Start the other edge wall the same way, at the opposite corner of the bottom row.
1-6. Build up the main wall with another row of timbers, staggered over the joints - slightly less than 12' this time, because run between the ends of your edge rows.
Attach the timbers to the timbers below with landscape spikes. Mark somewhere outside the wall where you drive spikes in, so as you work higher you don't end up trying to drive one spike into one below.
1-7. Run another row along the main wall above this, the full 12', overlapping your edge rows.
Attach with landscape spikes.
1-8. Do more rows along the edges, again starting at the corner and running each timber until it terminates below grade.
6" back from where it terminates, drill a hole and drive rod in to hold it in place. Where the timber is on top of another timber, use a landscape spike. Spikes are $1 a piece, so use them sparingly. No more than every 4' is necessary. Be careful not to split the wood.
1-9. Build up this way until your retaining wall is as high as you need.
Make sure each edge row overlaps the last and keys into the soil. When using landscape timbers as retaining walls, 6 timbers high is about all you can go without needing further lateral stability such as 'deadmen'.
1-10. Remove the sod from the pad area, and begin filling with dirt.
Remove sod with a spading fork. Rake out each wheelbarrow-load of dirt flat, and then tamp:
1-11. Use the narrow edge of a board with a level on it to check your grade as you build up.
It's easy to start mounding dirt in the middle - check for this as you go.
1-12. Allow the new fill exposure to the weather for a while, if possible.
Several heavy rains will cause the dirt to settle. However it will remain sticky when it's wet, because of the clay content. If you're not putting down gravel or pavers above, use a few bags of sand or lime to counteract this.
1-13. Place your structure on the new grade.
It can be anchored into the pad at the corners with rod. Drive the rod deep into the pad and attach this to the corners of your structure.
1-14. Put down a layer of pea gravel, and tamp it gently.
Enough will form a cobblestone floor. With larger stones, such as river rock, you can sweep out a layer of cement into the cracks, and mist it with a hose until it hardens.
1-15. Furnish and enjoy your new piece of living space!
Tips
If water is getting on to your pad from the slope, place a trench drain on that side of the pad. This is simply a ditch filled with gravel, with or without pipe, that allows water to drain down and around your pad. Make sure the drain has an exit point down and away from the pad.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:05",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Purchase your landscape timbers, steel rod (rebar), and landscape spikes (giant nails).\\nLandscape timbers come in 8' lengths, so to make things easy, with less cutting, try a pad that's in dimensions of 8' or 12', such as 8' x 8', 8' x 12', or 12' x 12'. The above pad is 12' x 12'. Anything much larger and you will need 'deadmen' laid into the pad for lateral stability.\\n1-2. Start with the lowest elevation for building your retaining wall.\\nIn a 12' x 12' pad, this wall will begin with one full timber and one half a timber laid in a line. Timbers can easily be cut with a handsaw. This bottom row can either be dug in and laid on grade, or propped up on solid rocks to keep moisture away. Landscape timbers are surface treated for outdoor use. Get the row level with a 4' to 6' level - pound it into position with a rubber mallet if necessary.\\n1-3. Anchor the row into the ground.\\nFor this drill a hole 6\\\" from each end of the timber, and for the 8' piece, one in the center. Drill a hole 1/16\\\" smaller than the diameter of your rod (1/2\\\" rod is ideal, but it's harder to cut with bolt cutters - 3/8\\\" rod will work also). This is so the rod will be snug in the timber. Cut your rod so that it will be driven at least 1' to 1 1/2' into the earth, plus the height of the timber (3\\\"). Pound the rod down and through your timber until the top of the rod is flush with the top of the timber. The rod has no head on it, so it won't hold the timber down - but it will hold it laterally and keep the timber from moving side to side. This will keep pressure from fill from pushing the wall out.\\n1-4. Begin the edge walls.\\nThe retaining wall is designed like a giant 'U', with the edges of the 'U' keying in to the soil and holding the main wall upright. Take an 8' piece and start it above one corner of your bottom row, perpendicular to it, and run it until it terminates completely underground. Depending on your grade, 8' might be too long - a 4' piece might work better. Anchor the timber into the soil with rod, and where it rests above the corner of the bottom row, attach it with a landscape spike. Landscape spikes are heavy-duty nails - try to stay away from the edge of the timber and drive them slowly. A 2 lb sledge works well.\\n1-5. Start the other edge wall the same way, at the opposite corner of the bottom row.\\n\\n1-6. Build up the main wall with another row of timbers, staggered over the joints - slightly less than 12' this time, because run between the ends of your edge rows.\\nAttach the timbers to the timbers below with landscape spikes. Mark somewhere outside the wall where you drive spikes in, so as you work higher you don't end up trying to drive one spike into one below.\\n1-7. Run another row along the main wall above this, the full 12', overlapping your edge rows.\\nAttach with landscape spikes.\\n1-8. Do more rows along the edges, again starting at the corner and running each timber until it terminates below grade.\\n6\\\" back from where it terminates, drill a hole and drive rod in to hold it in place. Where the timber is on top of another timber, use a landscape spike. Spikes are $1 a piece, so use them sparingly. No more than every 4' is necessary. Be careful not to split the wood.\\n1-9. Build up this way until your retaining wall is as high as you need.\\nMake sure each edge row overlaps the last and keys into the soil. When using landscape timbers as retaining walls, 6 timbers high is about all you can go without needing further lateral stability such as 'deadmen'.\\n1-10. Remove the sod from the pad area, and begin filling with dirt.\\nRemove sod with a spading fork. Rake out each wheelbarrow-load of dirt flat, and then tamp:\\n1-11. Use the narrow edge of a board with a level on it to check your grade as you build up.\\nIt's easy to start mounding dirt in the middle - check for this as you go.\\n1-12. Allow the new fill exposure to the weather for a while, if possible.\\nSeveral heavy rains will cause the dirt to settle. However it will remain sticky when it's wet, because of the clay content. If you're not putting down gravel or pavers above, use a few bags of sand or lime to counteract this.\\n1-13. Place your structure on the new grade.\\nIt can be anchored into the pad at the corners with rod. Drive the rod deep into the pad and attach this to the corners of your structure.\\n1-14. Put down a layer of pea gravel, and tamp it gently.\\nEnough will form a cobblestone floor. With larger stones, such as river rock, you can sweep out a layer of cement into the cracks, and mist it with a hose until it hardens.\\n1-15. Furnish and enjoy your new piece of living space!\\n\\nTips\\nIf water is getting on to your pad from the slope, place a trench drain on that side of the pad. This is simply a ditch filled with gravel, with or without pipe, that allows water to drain down and around your pad. Make sure the drain has an exit point down and away from the pad.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A small outdoor pad can be built within 2 days and cost you under $100. Landscape timbers are inexpensive and easy to work with. The grade can be built up and tamped level from free dirt on your property. It makes an excellent spot for a yurt or gazebo.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase your landscape timbers, steel rod (rebar), and landscape spikes (giant nails).\", \"描述\": \"Landscape timbers come in 8' lengths, so to make things easy, with less cutting, try a pad that's in dimensions of 8' or 12', such as 8' x 8', 8' x 12', or 12' x 12'. The above pad is 12' x 12'. Anything much larger and you will need 'deadmen' laid into the pad for lateral stability.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start with the lowest elevation for building your retaining wall.\", \"描述\": \"In a 12' x 12' pad, this wall will begin with one full timber and one half a timber laid in a line. Timbers can easily be cut with a handsaw. This bottom row can either be dug in and laid on grade, or propped up on solid rocks to keep moisture away. Landscape timbers are surface treated for outdoor use. Get the row level with a 4' to 6' level - pound it into position with a rubber mallet if necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Anchor the row into the ground.\", \"描述\": \"For this drill a hole 6\\\" from each end of the timber, and for the 8' piece, one in the center. Drill a hole 1/16\\\" smaller than the diameter of your rod (1/2\\\" rod is ideal, but it's harder to cut with bolt cutters - 3/8\\\" rod will work also). This is so the rod will be snug in the timber. Cut your rod so that it will be driven at least 1' to 1 1/2' into the earth, plus the height of the timber (3\\\"). Pound the rod down and through your timber until the top of the rod is flush with the top of the timber. The rod has no head on it, so it won't hold the timber down - but it will hold it laterally and keep the timber from moving side to side. This will keep pressure from fill from pushing the wall out.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Begin the edge walls.\", \"描述\": \"The retaining wall is designed like a giant 'U', with the edges of the 'U' keying in to the soil and holding the main wall upright. Take an 8' piece and start it above one corner of your bottom row, perpendicular to it, and run it until it terminates completely underground. Depending on your grade, 8' might be too long - a 4' piece might work better. Anchor the timber into the soil with rod, and where it rests above the corner of the bottom row, attach it with a landscape spike. Landscape spikes are heavy-duty nails - try to stay away from the edge of the timber and drive them slowly. A 2 lb sledge works well.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Start the other edge wall the same way, at the opposite corner of the bottom row.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build up the main wall with another row of timbers, staggered over the joints - slightly less than 12' this time, because run between the ends of your edge rows.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the timbers to the timbers below with landscape spikes. Mark somewhere outside the wall where you drive spikes in, so as you work higher you don't end up trying to drive one spike into one below.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Run another row along the main wall above this, the full 12', overlapping your edge rows.\", \"描述\": \"Attach with landscape spikes.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Do more rows along the edges, again starting at the corner and running each timber until it terminates below grade.\", \"描述\": \"6\\\" back from where it terminates, drill a hole and drive rod in to hold it in place. Where the timber is on top of another timber, use a landscape spike. Spikes are $1 a piece, so use them sparingly. No more than every 4' is necessary. Be careful not to split the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Build up this way until your retaining wall is as high as you need.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure each edge row overlaps the last and keys into the soil. When using landscape timbers as retaining walls, 6 timbers high is about all you can go without needing further lateral stability such as 'deadmen'.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Remove the sod from the pad area, and begin filling with dirt.\", \"描述\": \"Remove sod with a spading fork. Rake out each wheelbarrow-load of dirt flat, and then tamp:\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Use the narrow edge of a board with a level on it to check your grade as you build up.\", \"描述\": \"It's easy to start mounding dirt in the middle - check for this as you go.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Allow the new fill exposure to the weather for a while, if possible.\", \"描述\": \"Several heavy rains will cause the dirt to settle. However it will remain sticky when it's wet, because of the clay content. If you're not putting down gravel or pavers above, use a few bags of sand or lime to counteract this.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Place your structure on the new grade.\", \"描述\": \"It can be anchored into the pad at the corners with rod. Drive the rod deep into the pad and attach this to the corners of your structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Put down a layer of pea gravel, and tamp it gently.\", \"描述\": \"Enough will form a cobblestone floor. With larger stones, such as river rock, you can sweep out a layer of cement into the cracks, and mist it with a hose until it hardens.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Furnish and enjoy your new piece of living space!\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If water is getting on to your pad from the slope, place a trench drain on that side of the pad. This is simply a ditch filled with gravel, with or without pipe, that allows water to drain down and around your pad. Make sure the drain has an exit point down and away from the pad.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,549 |
How to Build a Small Sheet Metal Brake
|
1. Steps
1-1. Select materials that will be strong enough for your needs.
⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) steel plate with bracing will enable you to bend 14 gauge galvanized steel sheet metal in lengths up to about 3 feet (0.9 m), which is the size and specification for the project described in this article. Here are some materials used to build this particular brake.
1/4 cold rolled steel plate, one piece 7"X42", one 14"X48"
1/4"X2" angle iron, two pieces 14", one piece 42", one piece 48"
5/16"X2 1/2" angle iron 42" long
1 ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) steel tubing, about 18" long
1/2"X1 1/2" steel bolts with nuts and washers, 4 each.
1/2"X1 1/2" smooth steel rods, 2 required
1-2. Cut the angle iron and steel plate in sizes listed above, making sure edges are square and straight.
Lay the 14" wide plate on saw horses or a workbench so the remaining pieces can be fitted.
1-3. Lay the 7"X42" piece on top of the 14" piece with the front edges flush, and an equal space on each end.
Clamp these if desire to prevent them from shifting during the next steps.
1-4. Align one of the 14" angles on each end of the 7" wide (top) piece of plate so it overhangs the front edge about 1 inch (2.5 cm), and weld them to the 7" wide plate.
These will act as the clamping hinges when the brake is assembled.
1-5. Lay the 42" piece of 2" angle iron on top of the 7" wide (top) plate, centering it between the two end angles in the center of the sheet with the angle up, and weld it in place, with at least one inch welds on each edge 8 inches (20.3 cm) apart.
This will stiffen the plate when a piece of metal is clamped in the brake.
1-6. Drill 1/2 holes in the flats of the two 14 inch (35.6 cm) angles, one near the front edge of the 14" wide plate, and one near the back edge.
The location of these bolts isn't critical, but it will look better if they are in line with each other and on each end. Install one of your ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) bolts into each hole, bolting the angle to the plate loosely.
1-7. Notch the angle point of each end of the 2 ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) angle ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wide and 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep for the hinge pins to fit into.
The exact location of these will be determined by the alignment of the brake, as you will find later, but you should be able to center your 1/2 rods in the center of the corner of the angle.
1-8. Drill ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) holes ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) beyond the front edges of the 7" plate through the 14"X2" angles where they overhang the front of the plate just above the bottom flange of the angle iron.
These are the sockets the hinge pins will fit into.
1-9. Weld one of the smooth 1/2 rods into one of the notches you cut into the 2 1/2" angles, it should extend 3/4" (or more) beyond the end of the angle.
Keep it as straight as possible to the corner of the angle iron so it can swivel freely when it is installed.
1-10. Fit the pin (1/2 smooth rod) you just welded onto the angle into the socket you drilled earlier, then line the other notch up with the socket on the opposite end so you can fit the other pin into place, then weld that pin to the angle iron.
1-11. Notch the steel pipe 5/16" wide by 2" deep so it will slide over the top angle to create a handle to operate the braking angle you just installed.
Center it on that angle, and weld it into position.
1-12. Turn the brake over (it will be heavy) and place the 1 1/2" X 48" angle near the front edge of the 14" wideX48" piece of steel plate and weld it the same as the upper stiffener.
1-13. Mount the brake on saw horse or your workbench with a few inches hanging over to allow the brake and slide a piece of sheet metal between the 7" and 14" plate, snug the bolts down to clamp it, and pull the pipe handle towards you to bend the metal.
Tips
Use heavier metal stock for a stronger brake for bending heavier sheet metal or longer widths.
Test fit all of the pieces by tack welding them prior to completing the project so adjustments can be made if needed.
Mount this machine on pipe stands anchor to the floor or in the ground for long term use.
Warnings
This brake should facilitate braking clean corners if assembled correctly, but mastering the use of it will take practice, so start out with scrap metal to test and fit before braking your finished pieces.
Use safe practices when cutting metal, welding, and drilling.[3]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:05",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Select materials that will be strong enough for your needs.\\n⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) steel plate with bracing will enable you to bend 14 gauge galvanized steel sheet metal in lengths up to about 3 feet (0.9 m), which is the size and specification for the project described in this article. Here are some materials used to build this particular brake.\\n1/4 cold rolled steel plate, one piece 7\\\"X42\\\", one 14\\\"X48\\\"\\n1/4\\\"X2\\\" angle iron, two pieces 14\\\", one piece 42\\\", one piece 48\\\"\\n5/16\\\"X2 1/2\\\" angle iron 42\\\" long\\n1 ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) steel tubing, about 18\\\" long\\n1/2\\\"X1 1/2\\\" steel bolts with nuts and washers, 4 each.\\n1/2\\\"X1 1/2\\\" smooth steel rods, 2 required\\n1-2. Cut the angle iron and steel plate in sizes listed above, making sure edges are square and straight.\\nLay the 14\\\" wide plate on saw horses or a workbench so the remaining pieces can be fitted.\\n1-3. Lay the 7\\\"X42\\\" piece on top of the 14\\\" piece with the front edges flush, and an equal space on each end.\\nClamp these if desire to prevent them from shifting during the next steps.\\n1-4. Align one of the 14\\\" angles on each end of the 7\\\" wide (top) piece of plate so it overhangs the front edge about 1 inch (2.5 cm), and weld them to the 7\\\" wide plate.\\nThese will act as the clamping hinges when the brake is assembled.\\n1-5. Lay the 42\\\" piece of 2\\\" angle iron on top of the 7\\\" wide (top) plate, centering it between the two end angles in the center of the sheet with the angle up, and weld it in place, with at least one inch welds on each edge 8 inches (20.3 cm) apart.\\nThis will stiffen the plate when a piece of metal is clamped in the brake.\\n1-6. Drill 1/2 holes in the flats of the two 14 inch (35.6 cm) angles, one near the front edge of the 14\\\" wide plate, and one near the back edge.\\nThe location of these bolts isn't critical, but it will look better if they are in line with each other and on each end. Install one of your ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) bolts into each hole, bolting the angle to the plate loosely.\\n1-7. Notch the angle point of each end of the 2 ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) angle ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wide and 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep for the hinge pins to fit into.\\nThe exact location of these will be determined by the alignment of the brake, as you will find later, but you should be able to center your 1/2 rods in the center of the corner of the angle.\\n1-8. Drill ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) holes ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) beyond the front edges of the 7\\\" plate through the 14\\\"X2\\\" angles where they overhang the front of the plate just above the bottom flange of the angle iron.\\nThese are the sockets the hinge pins will fit into.\\n1-9. Weld one of the smooth 1/2 rods into one of the notches you cut into the 2 1/2\\\" angles, it should extend 3/4\\\" (or more) beyond the end of the angle.\\nKeep it as straight as possible to the corner of the angle iron so it can swivel freely when it is installed.\\n1-10. Fit the pin (1/2 smooth rod) you just welded onto the angle into the socket you drilled earlier, then line the other notch up with the socket on the opposite end so you can fit the other pin into place, then weld that pin to the angle iron.\\n\\n1-11. Notch the steel pipe 5/16\\\" wide by 2\\\" deep so it will slide over the top angle to create a handle to operate the braking angle you just installed.\\nCenter it on that angle, and weld it into position.\\n1-12. Turn the brake over (it will be heavy) and place the 1 1/2\\\" X 48\\\" angle near the front edge of the 14\\\" wideX48\\\" piece of steel plate and weld it the same as the upper stiffener.\\n\\n1-13. Mount the brake on saw horse or your workbench with a few inches hanging over to allow the brake and slide a piece of sheet metal between the 7\\\" and 14\\\" plate, snug the bolts down to clamp it, and pull the pipe handle towards you to bend the metal.\\n\\nTips\\nUse heavier metal stock for a stronger brake for bending heavier sheet metal or longer widths.\\nTest fit all of the pieces by tack welding them prior to completing the project so adjustments can be made if needed.\\nMount this machine on pipe stands anchor to the floor or in the ground for long term use.\\nWarnings\\nThis brake should facilitate braking clean corners if assembled correctly, but mastering the use of it will take practice, so start out with scrap metal to test and fit before braking your finished pieces.\\nUse safe practices when cutting metal, welding, and drilling.[3]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Sheet metal brakes are machines designed to make bending thin metal into shapes for use in projects such as house siding, eaves, air conditioning ductwork, and others. This project will help you build a simple sheet metal brake for bending small work for those who prefer to do it yourself.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select materials that will be strong enough for your needs.\", \"描述\": \"⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) steel plate with bracing will enable you to bend 14 gauge galvanized steel sheet metal in lengths up to about 3 feet (0.9 m), which is the size and specification for the project described in this article. Here are some materials used to build this particular brake.\\n1/4 cold rolled steel plate, one piece 7\\\"X42\\\", one 14\\\"X48\\\"\\n1/4\\\"X2\\\" angle iron, two pieces 14\\\", one piece 42\\\", one piece 48\\\"\\n5/16\\\"X2 1/2\\\" angle iron 42\\\" long\\n1 ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) steel tubing, about 18\\\" long\\n1/2\\\"X1 1/2\\\" steel bolts with nuts and washers, 4 each.\\n1/2\\\"X1 1/2\\\" smooth steel rods, 2 required\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the angle iron and steel plate in sizes listed above, making sure edges are square and straight.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the 14\\\" wide plate on saw horses or a workbench so the remaining pieces can be fitted.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay the 7\\\"X42\\\" piece on top of the 14\\\" piece with the front edges flush, and an equal space on each end.\", \"描述\": \"Clamp these if desire to prevent them from shifting during the next steps.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Align one of the 14\\\" angles on each end of the 7\\\" wide (top) piece of plate so it overhangs the front edge about 1 inch (2.5 cm), and weld them to the 7\\\" wide plate.\", \"描述\": \"These will act as the clamping hinges when the brake is assembled.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lay the 42\\\" piece of 2\\\" angle iron on top of the 7\\\" wide (top) plate, centering it between the two end angles in the center of the sheet with the angle up, and weld it in place, with at least one inch welds on each edge 8 inches (20.3 cm) apart.\", \"描述\": \"This will stiffen the plate when a piece of metal is clamped in the brake.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill 1/2 holes in the flats of the two 14 inch (35.6 cm) angles, one near the front edge of the 14\\\" wide plate, and one near the back edge.\", \"描述\": \"The location of these bolts isn't critical, but it will look better if they are in line with each other and on each end. Install one of your ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) bolts into each hole, bolting the angle to the plate loosely.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Notch the angle point of each end of the 2 ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) angle ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wide and 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep for the hinge pins to fit into.\", \"描述\": \"The exact location of these will be determined by the alignment of the brake, as you will find later, but you should be able to center your 1/2 rods in the center of the corner of the angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Drill ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) holes ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) beyond the front edges of the 7\\\" plate through the 14\\\"X2\\\" angles where they overhang the front of the plate just above the bottom flange of the angle iron.\", \"描述\": \"These are the sockets the hinge pins will fit into.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Weld one of the smooth 1/2 rods into one of the notches you cut into the 2 1/2\\\" angles, it should extend 3/4\\\" (or more) beyond the end of the angle.\", \"描述\": \"Keep it as straight as possible to the corner of the angle iron so it can swivel freely when it is installed.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Fit the pin (1/2 smooth rod) you just welded onto the angle into the socket you drilled earlier, then line the other notch up with the socket on the opposite end so you can fit the other pin into place, then weld that pin to the angle iron.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Notch the steel pipe 5/16\\\" wide by 2\\\" deep so it will slide over the top angle to create a handle to operate the braking angle you just installed.\", \"描述\": \"Center it on that angle, and weld it into position.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Turn the brake over (it will be heavy) and place the 1 1/2\\\" X 48\\\" angle near the front edge of the 14\\\" wideX48\\\" piece of steel plate and weld it the same as the upper stiffener.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Mount the brake on saw horse or your workbench with a few inches hanging over to allow the brake and slide a piece of sheet metal between the 7\\\" and 14\\\" plate, snug the bolts down to clamp it, and pull the pipe handle towards you to bend the metal.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use heavier metal stock for a stronger brake for bending heavier sheet metal or longer widths.\\n\", \"Test fit all of the pieces by tack welding them prior to completing the project so adjustments can be made if needed.\\n\", \"Mount this machine on pipe stands anchor to the floor or in the ground for long term use.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"This brake should facilitate braking clean corners if assembled correctly, but mastering the use of it will take practice, so start out with scrap metal to test and fit before braking your finished pieces.\\n\", \"Use safe practices when cutting metal, welding, and drilling.[3]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,550 |
How to Make a Homemade Meat Smoker
|
1. Oil Drum Hot Smoker
1-1. Drill 4 holes around the side of an oil drum, 7 in (18 cm) from the top.
Use an electric drill and a step bit to drill four ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) holes into an unlined, unpainted, 55-gallon, metal oil drum. Evenly space the holes around the circumference of the barrel, and place them 7 in (18 cm) down from the lid.
We’ll screw bolts into the holes, and the bolts will act as rests for a grill grate.
Optionally, drill 4 more holes about a foot beneath the original holes to accommodate an additional grill grate.
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1-2. Screw four ⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-wide, 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) bolts into the holes.
Use a wrench to screw in the holes, then fasten them from the inside with matching nuts. These bolts will support your grill grate, which will hold your meat.
1-3. Drill 3 more holes around the sides, 4 in (10 cm) from the bottom.
Using the same bit, make 3 evenly spaced 1 in (2.5 cm) holes around the circumference of the bottom of the barrel. These will act as air intake holes to provide oxygen to the burning wood chips.
1-4. Install 3 steel pipe nipples, 2 steel pipe caps, and a ball valve.
Screw 3 .75 in (1.9 cm) steel pipe nipples into the 3 exhaust holes. Then, add a matching pipe cap to 2 of the pipes. Finally, attach a .75 in (1.9 cm) ball valve to the last pipe nipple.
The ball valve can be opened and closed to regulate the heat inside, and the caps can be removed to quickly cool the barrel after smoking.
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1-5. Drill 8 .25 in (0.64 cm) holes in the lid of the drum, and add a handle.
Evenly space the holes around the top of the lid. These will act as air output holes that allow the smoke inside the drum to escape, while regulating the temperature inside. Then, drill 2 additional holes and fit a metal door handle to the center of the lid, for easy access.
While you’re here, sink a grill thermometer through one of those holes, for easy temperature monitoring.
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1-6. Place a 22 in (56 cm) charcoal basket on 4-5 bricks inside the drum.
Place the bricks on the floor of the drum, then place the charcoal basket on the bricks. The bricks allow air to flow up and into the basket, encouraging smooth burning and ample smoke.
1-7. Place a 22 in (56 cm) grill grate onto the inside bolts.
Your grill grate will sit well above the charcoal basket, keeping your meat safe from charring, but close enough to get good and smoky.
1-8. Light charcoal in the basket, and let it heat for about 1-2 hours.
Fill the charcoal basket to the top with coals, and use a chimney lighter to get them going. Let them burn for a couple hours, until the smoke is thin and bluish in color.
1-9. Place your meat on the grill, and smoke it according to your recipe.
Monitor the temperature and make sure it stays around 225–240 °F (107–116 °C), opening and closing the ball valve at the bottom of the drum to heat and cool it, respectively. Let your meat smoke for 6-8 hours, or according to your recipe.
Afterward, let your smoker close the valves of the smoker and place aluminum foil in the holes of the lid, to extinguish the coals.
2. Flower Pot Hot Smoker
2-1. Place a hot plate at the bottom of a 14 in (36 cm) flower pot.
Feed the hot plate cord down through the hole at the bottom of the pot. To make the whole thing more stable (and ensure you don’t have a wobbly smoker), place the pot on top of 2 or 3 bricks, to create a raised platform to accommodate the burner cord.
Set the hot plate to high now, while you still have easy access to it. Plug it in later when you’re ready to cook to get the heat going.
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2-2. Set a metal pie pan filled with damp wood chips on top of the hot plate.
Choose a pie pan small enough to sit atop the burner, but large enough to just about meet the sides of the flower pot, for maximum heat and smoke. That’s where the damp wood chips come in. Fill the pie plate full of ‘em, so that the chips sit level with the lips of the plate.
We recommend using hickory, mesquite, or oak chips for general-purpose smoking. Soak them in water overnight to get them good and damp before cooking, to make for plenty of smoke.
2-3. Place a small grill plate in the pot, and cover it with another flower pot.
Set an 8 in (20 cm) grill plate on top of the chips—ideally, the grill plate just about touches the chips. Then, flip an identical, second flower pot upside-down over the first, lining up the edges of the pots to make them as snug as possible.
2-4. Plug in the hot plate and let it heat to 200 °F (93 °C).
Thread a thermometer prong into the hole of the upside-down pot. Then, plug in the burner to get it going. Let it preheat for about 30 minutes, and prepare your meat according to your recipe while you wait.
2-5. Cook your meat to and internal temperature of 170 °F (77 °C).
Smoke smaller cuts of meat, like small chickens, bacon, or cuts of pork, for a couple hours, or until they hit 170 °F (77 °C). Use a meat thermometer every half hour or so to monitor the temp.
Always use heat-proof gloves to handle any part of the DIY smoker.
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Also monitor your wood chips, adding more as they burn down. Use a grill hook to lift the grill plate from the pot when you need to access them.
Keep small children and animals away from the smoker any time it’s in use.
3. Trash Can Cold Smoker
3-1. Bore a hole about 6 in (15 cm) from the bottom of a metal trash can.
Use a circular bit on an electric drill to bore a 2 in (5.1 cm) hole 6 in (15 cm) up from the bottom of a galvanized steel trash can. And use a new, never-used trash can. Even with some TLC, a used trash can just isn’t worth the risk, you know?
We’ll use this hole as an exit for a hot plate cord.
3-2. Place a hot plate on the bottom of the trash can.
Center the hot plate at the bottom of the trash can, and snake that cord through the hole you just bored. For more stability, position 3 to 4 bricks around the base of the hot plate to keep it in place and to weight down the trash can.
3-3. Set a pie plate with soaked wood chips and a metal grill atop the burner.
Set the pie plate directly on the burner, and set the grill directly on top of the pie plate. The grill plate from a standard charcoal grill will work great.
Soak your wood chips in water overnight to saturate them, which makes for more intense smoke. Go for apple or cherry wood chips for some heavy-hitting Texas flavor, or allspice wood to add a Jamaican tang to your dish.
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3-4. Secure the lid, plug in the hot plate, and let it smoke for about 45 minutes.
The metal of the trash can may heat up quite a bit, but the large space inside will take some time to get up to temperature. Use oven mitts to handle any component of the smoker while it heats. Don’t worry about temperature here, since this is a cold smoker; we’re just giving the wood chips some time to burn and get going.
3-5. Cold smoke your meat for 4-6 hours.
Keep the meat inside the smoker for about 5 hours, or longer if you want a more flavorful cut. Then, remove the meat from the smoker and cook it according to your taste. Remember, this is a cold smoker, and won’t actually cook your meat so only use it to smoke preserved cuts like salted, cured, or fermented meats.
4. Filing Cabinet Cold Smoker
4-1. Drill 1.5 in (3.8 cm) holes in the drawers of a filing cabinet.
It’s crucial that the filing cabinet be unpainted, as painted filing cabinets may contain harmful chemicals. With an electric drill and a circular drill bit, bore 2 rows of holes (about 7 holes each) in the metal bottom of each upper drawer. Space the holes about 3 in (7.6 cm) apart. These will allow smoke to filter through all levels of the cabinet.
Also bore a hole on the bottom right corner of the front of the bottom drawer, to snake a hot plate cord through.
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Optionally, bore additional, smaller holes in the side of the filing cabinet for thermometers, boring 1 hole on the level of each drawer. Thermometers will provide increased smoking accuracy when smoking according to a recipe.
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4-2. Place wood planks and metal racks on the bottom of each drawer.
Heat-safe cooling racks work well, but you might also use food-safe metal mesh. Lay down a few small, parallel planks of scrap wood or bricks under the racks to keep them elevated and ensure the meat smokes evenly on all sides.
4-3. Place a hot plate and wood chips in the bottom drawer of the cabinet.
Snake the cord of the hot plate out the hole in the front of the drawer. Then, place soaked wood chips in a metal container like a tea kettle or pie plate, and set them on the hot plate. Make sure that the wood chip container can fit when you close the drawer.
Soaked wood chips give off more smoke. Use a variety like oak or cedar for a strong flavor.
4-4. Set the hot plate to high and smoke your meat for 4-6 hours.
Place your meat on the wire racks—meat in the lower drawers will get smokier, faster—and let the wood chips do their thing. Remember, this is a cold smoker, so anything you smoke will have to be cooked properly later!
Only cold smoke preserved meats, like fermented, cured, or salted cuts, since cold smokers require the meat to be held at unstable temperatures for extended periods.
Alternatively, swap the hot plate and wood chips for a pellet tube smoker. Place a few bricks on the floor of the bottom drawer, pour wood pellets into the tube and light it to get smoking.
Warnings
Always wear eye protection and practice caution when boring holes in metal surfaces.
Never cook or smoke food in dirty cooking apparatuses, or apparatuses with harmful paints, plastics, or other substances.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:06",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Oil Drum Hot Smoker\\n1-1. Drill 4 holes around the side of an oil drum, 7 in (18 cm) from the top.\\nUse an electric drill and a step bit to drill four ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) holes into an unlined, unpainted, 55-gallon, metal oil drum. Evenly space the holes around the circumference of the barrel, and place them 7 in (18 cm) down from the lid.\\nWe’ll screw bolts into the holes, and the bolts will act as rests for a grill grate.\\nOptionally, drill 4 more holes about a foot beneath the original holes to accommodate an additional grill grate.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/51\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/51\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-2. Screw four ⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-wide, 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) bolts into the holes.\\nUse a wrench to screw in the holes, then fasten them from the inside with matching nuts. These bolts will support your grill grate, which will hold your meat.\\n1-3. Drill 3 more holes around the sides, 4 in (10 cm) from the bottom.\\nUsing the same bit, make 3 evenly spaced 1 in (2.5 cm) holes around the circumference of the bottom of the barrel. These will act as air intake holes to provide oxygen to the burning wood chips.\\n1-4. Install 3 steel pipe nipples, 2 steel pipe caps, and a ball valve.\\nScrew 3 .75 in (1.9 cm) steel pipe nipples into the 3 exhaust holes. Then, add a matching pipe cap to 2 of the pipes. Finally, attach a .75 in (1.9 cm) ball valve to the last pipe nipple.\\nThe ball valve can be opened and closed to regulate the heat inside, and the caps can be removed to quickly cool the barrel after smoking.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c7\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c7\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-5. Drill 8 .25 in (0.64 cm) holes in the lid of the drum, and add a handle.\\nEvenly space the holes around the top of the lid. These will act as air output holes that allow the smoke inside the drum to escape, while regulating the temperature inside. Then, drill 2 additional holes and fit a metal door handle to the center of the lid, for easy access.\\nWhile you’re here, sink a grill thermometer through one of those holes, for easy temperature monitoring.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2a\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2a\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-6. Place a 22 in (56 cm) charcoal basket on 4-5 bricks inside the drum.\\nPlace the bricks on the floor of the drum, then place the charcoal basket on the bricks. The bricks allow air to flow up and into the basket, encouraging smooth burning and ample smoke.\\n1-7. Place a 22 in (56 cm) grill grate onto the inside bolts.\\nYour grill grate will sit well above the charcoal basket, keeping your meat safe from charring, but close enough to get good and smoky.\\n1-8. Light charcoal in the basket, and let it heat for about 1-2 hours.\\nFill the charcoal basket to the top with coals, and use a chimney lighter to get them going. Let them burn for a couple hours, until the smoke is thin and bluish in color.\\n1-9. Place your meat on the grill, and smoke it according to your recipe.\\nMonitor the temperature and make sure it stays around 225–240 °F (107–116 °C), opening and closing the ball valve at the bottom of the drum to heat and cool it, respectively. Let your meat smoke for 6-8 hours, or according to your recipe.\\nAfterward, let your smoker close the valves of the smoker and place aluminum foil in the holes of the lid, to extinguish the coals.\\n2. Flower Pot Hot Smoker\\n2-1. Place a hot plate at the bottom of a 14 in (36 cm) flower pot.\\nFeed the hot plate cord down through the hole at the bottom of the pot. To make the whole thing more stable (and ensure you don’t have a wobbly smoker), place the pot on top of 2 or 3 bricks, to create a raised platform to accommodate the burner cord.\\nSet the hot plate to high now, while you still have easy access to it. Plug it in later when you’re ready to cook to get the heat going.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/ca\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/ca\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n2-2. Set a metal pie pan filled with damp wood chips on top of the hot plate.\\nChoose a pie pan small enough to sit atop the burner, but large enough to just about meet the sides of the flower pot, for maximum heat and smoke. That’s where the damp wood chips come in. Fill the pie plate full of ‘em, so that the chips sit level with the lips of the plate.\\nWe recommend using hickory, mesquite, or oak chips for general-purpose smoking. Soak them in water overnight to get them good and damp before cooking, to make for plenty of smoke.\\n2-3. Place a small grill plate in the pot, and cover it with another flower pot.\\nSet an 8 in (20 cm) grill plate on top of the chips—ideally, the grill plate just about touches the chips. Then, flip an identical, second flower pot upside-down over the first, lining up the edges of the pots to make them as snug as possible.\\n2-4. Plug in the hot plate and let it heat to 200 °F (93 °C).\\nThread a thermometer prong into the hole of the upside-down pot. Then, plug in the burner to get it going. Let it preheat for about 30 minutes, and prepare your meat according to your recipe while you wait.\\n2-5. Cook your meat to and internal temperature of 170 °F (77 °C).\\nSmoke smaller cuts of meat, like small chickens, bacon, or cuts of pork, for a couple hours, or until they hit 170 °F (77 °C). Use a meat thermometer every half hour or so to monitor the temp.\\nAlways use heat-proof gloves to handle any part of the DIY smoker.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f3\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-14Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-14Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f3\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-14Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-14Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nAlso monitor your wood chips, adding more as they burn down. Use a grill hook to lift the grill plate from the pot when you need to access them.\\nKeep small children and animals away from the smoker any time it’s in use.\\n3. Trash Can Cold Smoker\\n3-1. Bore a hole about 6 in (15 cm) from the bottom of a metal trash can.\\nUse a circular bit on an electric drill to bore a 2 in (5.1 cm) hole 6 in (15 cm) up from the bottom of a galvanized steel trash can. And use a new, never-used trash can. Even with some TLC, a used trash can just isn’t worth the risk, you know?\\nWe’ll use this hole as an exit for a hot plate cord.\\n3-2. Place a hot plate on the bottom of the trash can.\\nCenter the hot plate at the bottom of the trash can, and snake that cord through the hole you just bored. For more stability, position 3 to 4 bricks around the base of the hot plate to keep it in place and to weight down the trash can.\\n3-3. Set a pie plate with soaked wood chips and a metal grill atop the burner.\\nSet the pie plate directly on the burner, and set the grill directly on top of the pie plate. The grill plate from a standard charcoal grill will work great.\\nSoak your wood chips in water overnight to saturate them, which makes for more intense smoke. Go for apple or cherry wood chips for some heavy-hitting Texas flavor, or allspice wood to add a Jamaican tang to your dish.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/ac\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-17Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-17Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/ac\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-17Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-17Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n3-4. Secure the lid, plug in the hot plate, and let it smoke for about 45 minutes.\\nThe metal of the trash can may heat up quite a bit, but the large space inside will take some time to get up to temperature. Use oven mitts to handle any component of the smoker while it heats. Don’t worry about temperature here, since this is a cold smoker; we’re just giving the wood chips some time to burn and get going.\\n3-5. Cold smoke your meat for 4-6 hours.\\nKeep the meat inside the smoker for about 5 hours, or longer if you want a more flavorful cut. Then, remove the meat from the smoker and cook it according to your taste. Remember, this is a cold smoker, and won’t actually cook your meat so only use it to smoke preserved cuts like salted, cured, or fermented meats.\\n4. Filing Cabinet Cold Smoker\\n4-1. Drill 1.5 in (3.8 cm) holes in the drawers of a filing cabinet.\\nIt’s crucial that the filing cabinet be unpainted, as painted filing cabinets may contain harmful chemicals. With an electric drill and a circular drill bit, bore 2 rows of holes (about 7 holes each) in the metal bottom of each upper drawer. Space the holes about 3 in (7.6 cm) apart. These will allow smoke to filter through all levels of the cabinet.\\nAlso bore a hole on the bottom right corner of the front of the bottom drawer, to snake a hot plate cord through.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d3\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d3\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nOptionally, bore additional, smaller holes in the side of the filing cabinet for thermometers, boring 1 hole on the level of each drawer. Thermometers will provide increased smoking accuracy when smoking according to a recipe.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c1\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c1\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n4-2. Place wood planks and metal racks on the bottom of each drawer.\\nHeat-safe cooling racks work well, but you might also use food-safe metal mesh. Lay down a few small, parallel planks of scrap wood or bricks under the racks to keep them elevated and ensure the meat smokes evenly on all sides.\\n4-3. Place a hot plate and wood chips in the bottom drawer of the cabinet.\\nSnake the cord of the hot plate out the hole in the front of the drawer. Then, place soaked wood chips in a metal container like a tea kettle or pie plate, and set them on the hot plate. Make sure that the wood chip container can fit when you close the drawer.\\nSoaked wood chips give off more smoke. Use a variety like oak or cedar for a strong flavor.\\n4-4. Set the hot plate to high and smoke your meat for 4-6 hours.\\nPlace your meat on the wire racks—meat in the lower drawers will get smokier, faster—and let the wood chips do their thing. Remember, this is a cold smoker, so anything you smoke will have to be cooked properly later!\\nOnly cold smoke preserved meats, like fermented, cured, or salted cuts, since cold smokers require the meat to be held at unstable temperatures for extended periods.\\nAlternatively, swap the hot plate and wood chips for a pellet tube smoker. Place a few bricks on the floor of the bottom drawer, pour wood pellets into the tube and light it to get smoking.\\nWarnings\\nAlways wear eye protection and practice caution when boring holes in metal surfaces.\\nNever cook or smoke food in dirty cooking apparatuses, or apparatuses with harmful paints, plastics, or other substances.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A smoky, tangy cut of meat is a marvelous, priceless thing, but the cost of a commercial smoker is, on the other hand, quite pricey. But what is a smoker really, other than an enclosed chamber, some heated wood chips, and a rack? With that logic in mind, we can broaden our minds and pull some DIY wizardry to make a smoker out of just about anything. We’ll show you how to assemble hot smokers out of an oil drum or flower pot, and cold smokers out of a metal trash can or a filing cabinet, for luxury flavor on the cheap.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Oil Drum Hot Smoker\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drill 4 holes around the side of an oil drum, 7 in (18 cm) from the top.\", \"描述\": \"Use an electric drill and a step bit to drill four ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) holes into an unlined, unpainted, 55-gallon, metal oil drum. Evenly space the holes around the circumference of the barrel, and place them 7 in (18 cm) down from the lid.\\nWe’ll screw bolts into the holes, and the bolts will act as rests for a grill grate.\\nOptionally, drill 4 more holes about a foot beneath the original holes to accommodate an additional grill grate.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/51\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/51\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw four ⁄4 in (0.64 cm)-wide, 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) bolts into the holes.\", \"描述\": \"Use a wrench to screw in the holes, then fasten them from the inside with matching nuts. These bolts will support your grill grate, which will hold your meat.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill 3 more holes around the sides, 4 in (10 cm) from the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Using the same bit, make 3 evenly spaced 1 in (2.5 cm) holes around the circumference of the bottom of the barrel. These will act as air intake holes to provide oxygen to the burning wood chips.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install 3 steel pipe nipples, 2 steel pipe caps, and a ball valve.\", \"描述\": \"Screw 3 .75 in (1.9 cm) steel pipe nipples into the 3 exhaust holes. Then, add a matching pipe cap to 2 of the pipes. Finally, attach a .75 in (1.9 cm) ball valve to the last pipe nipple.\\nThe ball valve can be opened and closed to regulate the heat inside, and the caps can be removed to quickly cool the barrel after smoking.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c7\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c7\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill 8 .25 in (0.64 cm) holes in the lid of the drum, and add a handle.\", \"描述\": \"Evenly space the holes around the top of the lid. These will act as air output holes that allow the smoke inside the drum to escape, while regulating the temperature inside. Then, drill 2 additional holes and fit a metal door handle to the center of the lid, for easy access.\\nWhile you’re here, sink a grill thermometer through one of those holes, for easy temperature monitoring.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2a\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2a\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place a 22 in (56 cm) charcoal basket on 4-5 bricks inside the drum.\", \"描述\": \"Place the bricks on the floor of the drum, then place the charcoal basket on the bricks. The bricks allow air to flow up and into the basket, encouraging smooth burning and ample smoke.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place a 22 in (56 cm) grill grate onto the inside bolts.\", \"描述\": \"Your grill grate will sit well above the charcoal basket, keeping your meat safe from charring, but close enough to get good and smoky.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Light charcoal in the basket, and let it heat for about 1-2 hours.\", \"描述\": \"Fill the charcoal basket to the top with coals, and use a chimney lighter to get them going. Let them burn for a couple hours, until the smoke is thin and bluish in color.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place your meat on the grill, and smoke it according to your recipe.\", \"描述\": \"Monitor the temperature and make sure it stays around 225–240 °F (107–116 °C), opening and closing the ball valve at the bottom of the drum to heat and cool it, respectively. Let your meat smoke for 6-8 hours, or according to your recipe.\\nAfterward, let your smoker close the valves of the smoker and place aluminum foil in the holes of the lid, to extinguish the coals.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Flower Pot Hot Smoker\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place a hot plate at the bottom of a 14 in (36 cm) flower pot.\", \"描述\": \"Feed the hot plate cord down through the hole at the bottom of the pot. To make the whole thing more stable (and ensure you don’t have a wobbly smoker), place the pot on top of 2 or 3 bricks, to create a raised platform to accommodate the burner cord.\\nSet the hot plate to high now, while you still have easy access to it. Plug it in later when you’re ready to cook to get the heat going.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/ca\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/ca\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set a metal pie pan filled with damp wood chips on top of the hot plate.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a pie pan small enough to sit atop the burner, but large enough to just about meet the sides of the flower pot, for maximum heat and smoke. That’s where the damp wood chips come in. Fill the pie plate full of ‘em, so that the chips sit level with the lips of the plate.\\nWe recommend using hickory, mesquite, or oak chips for general-purpose smoking. Soak them in water overnight to get them good and damp before cooking, to make for plenty of smoke.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place a small grill plate in the pot, and cover it with another flower pot.\", \"描述\": \"Set an 8 in (20 cm) grill plate on top of the chips—ideally, the grill plate just about touches the chips. Then, flip an identical, second flower pot upside-down over the first, lining up the edges of the pots to make them as snug as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Plug in the hot plate and let it heat to 200 °F (93 °C).\", \"描述\": \"Thread a thermometer prong into the hole of the upside-down pot. Then, plug in the burner to get it going. Let it preheat for about 30 minutes, and prepare your meat according to your recipe while you wait.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cook your meat to and internal temperature of 170 °F (77 °C).\", \"描述\": \"Smoke smaller cuts of meat, like small chickens, bacon, or cuts of pork, for a couple hours, or until they hit 170 °F (77 °C). Use a meat thermometer every half hour or so to monitor the temp.\\nAlways use heat-proof gloves to handle any part of the DIY smoker.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f3\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-14Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-14Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f3\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-14Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-14Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nAlso monitor your wood chips, adding more as they burn down. Use a grill hook to lift the grill plate from the pot when you need to access them.\\nKeep small children and animals away from the smoker any time it’s in use.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Trash Can Cold Smoker\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bore a hole about 6 in (15 cm) from the bottom of a metal trash can.\", \"描述\": \"Use a circular bit on an electric drill to bore a 2 in (5.1 cm) hole 6 in (15 cm) up from the bottom of a galvanized steel trash can. And use a new, never-used trash can. Even with some TLC, a used trash can just isn’t worth the risk, you know?\\nWe’ll use this hole as an exit for a hot plate cord.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place a hot plate on the bottom of the trash can.\", \"描述\": \"Center the hot plate at the bottom of the trash can, and snake that cord through the hole you just bored. For more stability, position 3 to 4 bricks around the base of the hot plate to keep it in place and to weight down the trash can.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set a pie plate with soaked wood chips and a metal grill atop the burner.\", \"描述\": \"Set the pie plate directly on the burner, and set the grill directly on top of the pie plate. The grill plate from a standard charcoal grill will work great.\\nSoak your wood chips in water overnight to saturate them, which makes for more intense smoke. Go for apple or cherry wood chips for some heavy-hitting Texas flavor, or allspice wood to add a Jamaican tang to your dish.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/ac\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-17Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-17Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/ac\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-17Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-17Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Secure the lid, plug in the hot plate, and let it smoke for about 45 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"The metal of the trash can may heat up quite a bit, but the large space inside will take some time to get up to temperature. Use oven mitts to handle any component of the smoker while it heats. Don’t worry about temperature here, since this is a cold smoker; we’re just giving the wood chips some time to burn and get going.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cold smoke your meat for 4-6 hours.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the meat inside the smoker for about 5 hours, or longer if you want a more flavorful cut. Then, remove the meat from the smoker and cook it according to your taste. Remember, this is a cold smoker, and won’t actually cook your meat so only use it to smoke preserved cuts like salted, cured, or fermented meats.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Filing Cabinet Cold Smoker\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drill 1.5 in (3.8 cm) holes in the drawers of a filing cabinet.\", \"描述\": \"It’s crucial that the filing cabinet be unpainted, as painted filing cabinets may contain harmful chemicals. With an electric drill and a circular drill bit, bore 2 rows of holes (about 7 holes each) in the metal bottom of each upper drawer. Space the holes about 3 in (7.6 cm) apart. These will allow smoke to filter through all levels of the cabinet.\\nAlso bore a hole on the bottom right corner of the front of the bottom drawer, to snake a hot plate cord through.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d3\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d3\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nOptionally, bore additional, smaller holes in the side of the filing cabinet for thermometers, boring 1 hole on the level of each drawer. Thermometers will provide increased smoking accuracy when smoking according to a recipe.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c1\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c1\\\\/Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-Smoker-Step-20Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place wood planks and metal racks on the bottom of each drawer.\", \"描述\": \"Heat-safe cooling racks work well, but you might also use food-safe metal mesh. Lay down a few small, parallel planks of scrap wood or bricks under the racks to keep them elevated and ensure the meat smokes evenly on all sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place a hot plate and wood chips in the bottom drawer of the cabinet.\", \"描述\": \"Snake the cord of the hot plate out the hole in the front of the drawer. Then, place soaked wood chips in a metal container like a tea kettle or pie plate, and set them on the hot plate. Make sure that the wood chip container can fit when you close the drawer.\\nSoaked wood chips give off more smoke. Use a variety like oak or cedar for a strong flavor.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set the hot plate to high and smoke your meat for 4-6 hours.\", \"描述\": \"Place your meat on the wire racks—meat in the lower drawers will get smokier, faster—and let the wood chips do their thing. Remember, this is a cold smoker, so anything you smoke will have to be cooked properly later!\\nOnly cold smoke preserved meats, like fermented, cured, or salted cuts, since cold smokers require the meat to be held at unstable temperatures for extended periods.\\nAlternatively, swap the hot plate and wood chips for a pellet tube smoker. Place a few bricks on the floor of the bottom drawer, pour wood pellets into the tube and light it to get smoking.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Always wear eye protection and practice caution when boring holes in metal surfaces.\\n\", \"Never cook or smoke food in dirty cooking apparatuses, or apparatuses with harmful paints, plastics, or other substances.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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How to Build a Snail House
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1. Creating an Extensive System
1-1. Determine whether your climate is suitable for raising snails outdoors.
Most snails prefer warmth and humidity - about 25-30 degrees C (or 77-86 degrees F) and 80-95% humidity. Research the breed of snail you are planning to raise to determine whether an extensive system is an option for you or not.
Also consider wind as a factor in snail growth. Wind causes snails to dry out, so you should situate your snailery in a sheltered location if possible.
1-2. Fence in an area based on how many snails you are planning to house.
Fine chicken wire mesh works well, because snails don’t like to crawl on it. Concrete blocks and bricks are also a good option.
Dig the fence in at least 20 cm to prevent snails from burrowing under and escaping.
It only needs to be a few inches tall if there’s no roof. If there is a roof, you’ll need to build the pen at least as tall as the potential height of the largest plants in the enclosure.
1-3. Decide whether you want a roof or not.
A roof can offer shade and protection from the elements, but it’s an expensive option. If you have constructed your snailery out of a material that snails can climb, a roof is necessary to keep them in.
Fine wire mesh is a good option for a roof. You can cover it with thin cloth for added protection.
If you do add a roof, you will need a way to access your snails. If you are using wire mesh, attach the roof with twists of wire so that you can loosen them and get into the pen whenever you need to.
1-4. Fill the enclosure with appropriate soil.
Be sure that the soil is very loose. Snails lay their eggs in the soil, so it’s important for them to be able to dig into it easily. Avoid
very sandy soil (it doesn’t hold water well)
heavy, clay-like soil
highly acidic soil (it can damage their shells)
1-5. Plant vegetation in the pen.
Shrubs and small trees will offer food and shelter. Plants that work particularly well are sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and leafy vegetables.
You might also consider planting small trees outside of the enclosure as well. This will help protect them from wind, sun, and rain.
1-6. Add a small container for water.
Let it collect rainwater, since tap water often contains chemicals such as chlorine, which isn't good for snails. Use something shallow (like a jar lid) so that your snails don’t topple in and drown. If the water starts to look particularly dirty or full of refuse, replace it.
2. Creating an Intensive System
2-1. Choose your structure.
Snails can eat their way out of cardboard, and they tend to be escape artists, so you will need something sturdy.
Wooden boxes work well. Be sure that they are made of decay and termite resistant material.
Discarded oil drums are a cheap and workable option as well.
Glass or plastic containers work too. If you’re working with just a few snails, a plastic Tupperware container would work. For a few more, consider an aquarium.
2-2. Put holes in the lid of your container.
Snails houses need ventilation so that your little friends can breathe. If you are hatching baby snails, consider a wire mesh top so that they can’t escape. If you are fattening up fully grown snails, you can bore holes in the lid of your container as long as they are smaller than your snails.
2-3. Place your structure on legs.
It’s a good idea to bring the structure up to waist-height so that it’s easy to work in. If you’re planning to keep the snail house outside, legs will help keep predators out as well. You can use concrete blocks stacked on top of each other for easy legs.
You should also place the snailery away from very direct, hot sunlight so that they can easily stay moist. Don’t put them under a vent, because this can cause them to dry out.
2-4. Furnish your snail house.
Put at least 2 inches of potting compost in the bottom of the container. Give the little critters a shelter, such as tupperware container tipped on its side or a half-buried terracotta pot.
Don’t use soil directly from your garden, because it could contain other organisms as well.
2-5. Supply your snails with food.
Assuming you haven’t planted anything in your container, an intensive system will require you to regularly provide food for your snails. You can give them weeds, vegetable peelings, and pieces of fruit. Avoid plants with hairy leaves and anything that produces poisons.
If any food goes uneaten and starts to rot, remove it from the container.
Good fruits for snails include mangos, bananas, pears, eggplant, figs, tomatoes, and cucumbers.
Snails need protein, which they can get from sweet potatoes and plantains.
Household leftovers such as rice and beans are fine, but be sure that they do not contain salt.
2-6. Provide a shallow container of water.
The lids of jars or plastic containers work well. Tap water often contains chlorine, which isn’t good for snails. Give them rain water or water from a bottle.
3. Maintaining Your Snail House
3-1. Determine whether you need to create a semi-intensive system.
If you already have an extensive system, and it’s time for your snails to breed, you may find that you need to add an intensive element for hatching and rearing young snails. If you already have an intensive system housing eggs and baby snails, you may discover that you need to add an extensive component as your snails get larger and need more space.
3-2. Ensure that your snail house is large enough.
Add to it as your snail population increases. Overcrowding can cause snail growth to lag and can encourage the spread of disease among your snail population. Typically, you want about 1 square meter for every 100 hatchlings and about 1 square meter for every 7-10 adult snails.
3-3. Replace the compost.
About once every two weeks, take the snails out and replace the old compost with fresh. Be sure to also remove any pieces of rotten food at this time. You will need to do this with both extensive and intensive systems.
Be careful of moving baby snails. Adult snail shells are hard enough that you can pick them up, but try to move baby snails by nudging them onto a stiff piece of paper and transferring them gently.
3-4. Keep plenty of fresh water in the enclosure.
Use shallow dishes such as jar lids or yogurt container tops to prevent snails from falling into the water. If the water starts to look dirty or gets a lot of food or droppings in it, replace it immediately.
Tips
Be sure that your snailery is escape proof. No matter what kind of system you choose, your system must be carefully enclosed around the perimeter. Snails can lift up to fifty times their own weight! You must weigh down their habitats to keep them from escaping. [17]
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Make sure to use a spray bottle and spray your snail's environment daily! Snails like a humid environment.
Construct your snailery in an accessible place. You will need to get in and out frequently for feeding and cleaning. At the same time, it’s important to make your snail house safe from predators.
Warnings
Never place the snail's tank in direct sunlight.
Never dump your snails into the wild, and be very careful not to allow them to escape. They can destroy a wide range of crops and cause economic harm to farmers.[18]
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:06",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating an Extensive System\\n1-1. Determine whether your climate is suitable for raising snails outdoors.\\nMost snails prefer warmth and humidity - about 25-30 degrees C (or 77-86 degrees F) and 80-95% humidity. Research the breed of snail you are planning to raise to determine whether an extensive system is an option for you or not. \\nAlso consider wind as a factor in snail growth. Wind causes snails to dry out, so you should situate your snailery in a sheltered location if possible.\\n1-2. Fence in an area based on how many snails you are planning to house.\\nFine chicken wire mesh works well, because snails don’t like to crawl on it. Concrete blocks and bricks are also a good option.\\nDig the fence in at least 20 cm to prevent snails from burrowing under and escaping.\\nIt only needs to be a few inches tall if there’s no roof. If there is a roof, you’ll need to build the pen at least as tall as the potential height of the largest plants in the enclosure.\\n1-3. Decide whether you want a roof or not.\\nA roof can offer shade and protection from the elements, but it’s an expensive option. If you have constructed your snailery out of a material that snails can climb, a roof is necessary to keep them in. \\nFine wire mesh is a good option for a roof. You can cover it with thin cloth for added protection.\\nIf you do add a roof, you will need a way to access your snails. If you are using wire mesh, attach the roof with twists of wire so that you can loosen them and get into the pen whenever you need to.\\n1-4. Fill the enclosure with appropriate soil.\\nBe sure that the soil is very loose. Snails lay their eggs in the soil, so it’s important for them to be able to dig into it easily. Avoid\\nvery sandy soil (it doesn’t hold water well)\\nheavy, clay-like soil\\nhighly acidic soil (it can damage their shells)\\n1-5. Plant vegetation in the pen.\\nShrubs and small trees will offer food and shelter. Plants that work particularly well are sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and leafy vegetables. \\nYou might also consider planting small trees outside of the enclosure as well. This will help protect them from wind, sun, and rain.\\n1-6. Add a small container for water.\\nLet it collect rainwater, since tap water often contains chemicals such as chlorine, which isn't good for snails. Use something shallow (like a jar lid) so that your snails don’t topple in and drown. If the water starts to look particularly dirty or full of refuse, replace it.\\n2. Creating an Intensive System\\n2-1. Choose your structure.\\nSnails can eat their way out of cardboard, and they tend to be escape artists, so you will need something sturdy. \\nWooden boxes work well. Be sure that they are made of decay and termite resistant material.\\nDiscarded oil drums are a cheap and workable option as well.\\nGlass or plastic containers work too. If you’re working with just a few snails, a plastic Tupperware container would work. For a few more, consider an aquarium.\\n2-2. Put holes in the lid of your container.\\nSnails houses need ventilation so that your little friends can breathe. If you are hatching baby snails, consider a wire mesh top so that they can’t escape. If you are fattening up fully grown snails, you can bore holes in the lid of your container as long as they are smaller than your snails.\\n2-3. Place your structure on legs.\\nIt’s a good idea to bring the structure up to waist-height so that it’s easy to work in. If you’re planning to keep the snail house outside, legs will help keep predators out as well. You can use concrete blocks stacked on top of each other for easy legs.\\nYou should also place the snailery away from very direct, hot sunlight so that they can easily stay moist. Don’t put them under a vent, because this can cause them to dry out.\\n2-4. Furnish your snail house.\\nPut at least 2 inches of potting compost in the bottom of the container. Give the little critters a shelter, such as tupperware container tipped on its side or a half-buried terracotta pot. \\nDon’t use soil directly from your garden, because it could contain other organisms as well.\\n2-5. Supply your snails with food.\\nAssuming you haven’t planted anything in your container, an intensive system will require you to regularly provide food for your snails. You can give them weeds, vegetable peelings, and pieces of fruit. Avoid plants with hairy leaves and anything that produces poisons. \\nIf any food goes uneaten and starts to rot, remove it from the container.\\nGood fruits for snails include mangos, bananas, pears, eggplant, figs, tomatoes, and cucumbers.\\nSnails need protein, which they can get from sweet potatoes and plantains.\\nHousehold leftovers such as rice and beans are fine, but be sure that they do not contain salt.\\n2-6. Provide a shallow container of water.\\nThe lids of jars or plastic containers work well. Tap water often contains chlorine, which isn’t good for snails. Give them rain water or water from a bottle.\\n3. Maintaining Your Snail House\\n3-1. Determine whether you need to create a semi-intensive system.\\nIf you already have an extensive system, and it’s time for your snails to breed, you may find that you need to add an intensive element for hatching and rearing young snails. If you already have an intensive system housing eggs and baby snails, you may discover that you need to add an extensive component as your snails get larger and need more space.\\n3-2. Ensure that your snail house is large enough.\\nAdd to it as your snail population increases. Overcrowding can cause snail growth to lag and can encourage the spread of disease among your snail population. Typically, you want about 1 square meter for every 100 hatchlings and about 1 square meter for every 7-10 adult snails.\\n3-3. Replace the compost.\\nAbout once every two weeks, take the snails out and replace the old compost with fresh. Be sure to also remove any pieces of rotten food at this time. You will need to do this with both extensive and intensive systems. \\nBe careful of moving baby snails. Adult snail shells are hard enough that you can pick them up, but try to move baby snails by nudging them onto a stiff piece of paper and transferring them gently.\\n3-4. Keep plenty of fresh water in the enclosure.\\nUse shallow dishes such as jar lids or yogurt container tops to prevent snails from falling into the water. If the water starts to look dirty or gets a lot of food or droppings in it, replace it immediately.\\nTips\\nBe sure that your snailery is escape proof. No matter what kind of system you choose, your system must be carefully enclosed around the perimeter. Snails can lift up to fifty times their own weight! You must weigh down their habitats to keep them from escaping. [17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nMake sure to use a spray bottle and spray your snail's environment daily! Snails like a humid environment.\\nConstruct your snailery in an accessible place. You will need to get in and out frequently for feeding and cleaning. At the same time, it’s important to make your snail house safe from predators.\\nWarnings\\nNever place the snail's tank in direct sunlight.\\nNever dump your snails into the wild, and be very careful not to allow them to escape. They can destroy a wide range of crops and cause economic harm to farmers.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Snails can be fascinating and peaceful creatures. They can also be a lucrative crop, as many people in the world consume them as a delicacy. Of course, before investing in a large scale snailery, you should investigate the local market for snails and find out if there are rules and regulations regarding breeding and sale of snails. Snaileries come in three varieties. Extensive systems are free-range and outdoors. Intensive systems are closed and climate controlled. Semi-intensive systems combine features from intensive and extensive systems. Usually, in a semi-intensive system, you allow your snails to lay eggs and hatch in closed environments and then move snails outside after about 6-8 weeks.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating an Extensive System\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine whether your climate is suitable for raising snails outdoors.\", \"描述\": \"Most snails prefer warmth and humidity - about 25-30 degrees C (or 77-86 degrees F) and 80-95% humidity. Research the breed of snail you are planning to raise to determine whether an extensive system is an option for you or not. \\nAlso consider wind as a factor in snail growth. Wind causes snails to dry out, so you should situate your snailery in a sheltered location if possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fence in an area based on how many snails you are planning to house.\", \"描述\": \"Fine chicken wire mesh works well, because snails don’t like to crawl on it. Concrete blocks and bricks are also a good option.\\nDig the fence in at least 20 cm to prevent snails from burrowing under and escaping.\\nIt only needs to be a few inches tall if there’s no roof. If there is a roof, you’ll need to build the pen at least as tall as the potential height of the largest plants in the enclosure.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide whether you want a roof or not.\", \"描述\": \"A roof can offer shade and protection from the elements, but it’s an expensive option. If you have constructed your snailery out of a material that snails can climb, a roof is necessary to keep them in. \\nFine wire mesh is a good option for a roof. You can cover it with thin cloth for added protection.\\nIf you do add a roof, you will need a way to access your snails. If you are using wire mesh, attach the roof with twists of wire so that you can loosen them and get into the pen whenever you need to.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill the enclosure with appropriate soil.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure that the soil is very loose. Snails lay their eggs in the soil, so it’s important for them to be able to dig into it easily. Avoid\\nvery sandy soil (it doesn’t hold water well)\\nheavy, clay-like soil\\nhighly acidic soil (it can damage their shells)\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Plant vegetation in the pen.\", \"描述\": \"Shrubs and small trees will offer food and shelter. Plants that work particularly well are sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and leafy vegetables. \\nYou might also consider planting small trees outside of the enclosure as well. This will help protect them from wind, sun, and rain.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add a small container for water.\", \"描述\": \"Let it collect rainwater, since tap water often contains chemicals such as chlorine, which isn't good for snails. Use something shallow (like a jar lid) so that your snails don’t topple in and drown. If the water starts to look particularly dirty or full of refuse, replace it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating an Intensive System\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose your structure.\", \"描述\": \"Snails can eat their way out of cardboard, and they tend to be escape artists, so you will need something sturdy. \\nWooden boxes work well. Be sure that they are made of decay and termite resistant material.\\nDiscarded oil drums are a cheap and workable option as well.\\nGlass or plastic containers work too. If you’re working with just a few snails, a plastic Tupperware container would work. For a few more, consider an aquarium.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put holes in the lid of your container.\", \"描述\": \"Snails houses need ventilation so that your little friends can breathe. If you are hatching baby snails, consider a wire mesh top so that they can’t escape. If you are fattening up fully grown snails, you can bore holes in the lid of your container as long as they are smaller than your snails.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place your structure on legs.\", \"描述\": \"It’s a good idea to bring the structure up to waist-height so that it’s easy to work in. If you’re planning to keep the snail house outside, legs will help keep predators out as well. You can use concrete blocks stacked on top of each other for easy legs.\\nYou should also place the snailery away from very direct, hot sunlight so that they can easily stay moist. Don’t put them under a vent, because this can cause them to dry out.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Furnish your snail house.\", \"描述\": \"Put at least 2 inches of potting compost in the bottom of the container. Give the little critters a shelter, such as tupperware container tipped on its side or a half-buried terracotta pot. \\nDon’t use soil directly from your garden, because it could contain other organisms as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Supply your snails with food.\", \"描述\": \"Assuming you haven’t planted anything in your container, an intensive system will require you to regularly provide food for your snails. You can give them weeds, vegetable peelings, and pieces of fruit. Avoid plants with hairy leaves and anything that produces poisons. \\nIf any food goes uneaten and starts to rot, remove it from the container.\\nGood fruits for snails include mangos, bananas, pears, eggplant, figs, tomatoes, and cucumbers.\\nSnails need protein, which they can get from sweet potatoes and plantains.\\nHousehold leftovers such as rice and beans are fine, but be sure that they do not contain salt.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Provide a shallow container of water.\", \"描述\": \"The lids of jars or plastic containers work well. Tap water often contains chlorine, which isn’t good for snails. Give them rain water or water from a bottle.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Maintaining Your Snail House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine whether you need to create a semi-intensive system.\", \"描述\": \"If you already have an extensive system, and it’s time for your snails to breed, you may find that you need to add an intensive element for hatching and rearing young snails. If you already have an intensive system housing eggs and baby snails, you may discover that you need to add an extensive component as your snails get larger and need more space.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ensure that your snail house is large enough.\", \"描述\": \"Add to it as your snail population increases. Overcrowding can cause snail growth to lag and can encourage the spread of disease among your snail population. Typically, you want about 1 square meter for every 100 hatchlings and about 1 square meter for every 7-10 adult snails.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Replace the compost.\", \"描述\": \"About once every two weeks, take the snails out and replace the old compost with fresh. Be sure to also remove any pieces of rotten food at this time. You will need to do this with both extensive and intensive systems. \\nBe careful of moving baby snails. Adult snail shells are hard enough that you can pick them up, but try to move baby snails by nudging them onto a stiff piece of paper and transferring them gently.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep plenty of fresh water in the enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"Use shallow dishes such as jar lids or yogurt container tops to prevent snails from falling into the water. If the water starts to look dirty or gets a lot of food or droppings in it, replace it immediately.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Be sure that your snailery is escape proof. No matter what kind of system you choose, your system must be carefully enclosed around the perimeter. Snails can lift up to fifty times their own weight! You must weigh down their habitats to keep them from escaping. [17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Make sure to use a spray bottle and spray your snail's environment daily! Snails like a humid environment.\\n\", \"Construct your snailery in an accessible place. You will need to get in and out frequently for feeding and cleaning. At the same time, it’s important to make your snail house safe from predators.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Never place the snail's tank in direct sunlight.\\n\", \"Never dump your snails into the wild, and be very careful not to allow them to escape. They can destroy a wide range of crops and cause economic harm to farmers.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,552 |
How to Build a Snake Cage
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1. Planning Your Enclosure
1-1. Gather your materials.
You'll want to make sure you have everything you need before you begin. In addition to the actual building materials, you'll also need several tools, including a power drill, a router, measuring tape, screws, hinges, and one or two hook-and-eye latches for the enclosure's opening.
Wood is the primary structural material. You'll be using it to assemble most of the enclosure.
High-pressure particleboard with a laminate coating, pre-built shelving, or high-quality plywood are all ideal types of wood for the enclosure.
Be sure you stain the wood before beginning.
You'll also need to choose between glass or thermoplastic for the panels of your enclosure. Glass and plastic both help retain heat inside the enclosure, though plastic may be more effective.
1-2. Plan the size of your enclosure.
Before you measure and cut any pieces, you'll need to decide how large your enclosure should be. This will be determined by the size of your snake. If your snake is still growing, size your enclosure to its estimated adult size, which a breeder or snake expert at your local pet store should be able to tell you.
Generally speaking, most snakes need at least enough space to stretch out across the cage.
Smaller sized snakes like garter and grass snakes can be kept in smaller enclosures, so long as they have enough room.
Medium- to large-sized snakes, including king snakes, rat snakes, milk snakes, and gopher snakes, require larger enclosures.
Be aware that climbing snakes will do better in a taller enclosure, while burrowing snakes will do better in a longer enclosure.
1-3. Determine where to place the opening.
Generally speaking, if your snake is venomous or is capable of moving particularly fast, it's best to put the opening on top of the enclosure. This will help prevent escape attempts while the enclosure is open for feeding or cleaning. If your snake is not venomous and does not move quickly, you can put the opening on the side of the enclosure.
Having a side-opening enclosure allows you to stack your snake's habitat between other enclosures (if you have more than one). You will not have this option if you put the opening on the top of the enclosure.
If your snake will need an artificial heat source, it may be easiest to put the opening on top of the enclosure. If you're using a glass panel, you may be able to simply place the heat lamp directly on the glass.
2. Building the Enclosure
2-1. Measure your building materials.
Before you can actually build the enclosure, you'll need to measure its components. It's important to be as precise as possible with your measurements since a gap in the enclosure could make it easy for your snake to escape.
Smaller snakes can be kept in a 10- or 20-gallon tank. This measures out to either 20 inches by 10 inches by 12 inches (51 by 25 by 30.5 centimeters), or up to 24 inches by 12 inches by 16 inches (61 by 30.5 by 40.5 centimeters)
Medium-to-large sized snakes typically need between 30- and 55-gallon tanks. This measures out to 36 inches by 12 inches by 16 inches (91.5 by 30.5 by 40.5 centimeters) or up to 48 inches by 13 inches by 20 inches (122 by 33 by 51 centimeters).
The glass or plastic panel you use as a window for the front of the enclosure should measure a few tenths of an inch (less than a centimeter) shorter than the back wooden panel. This will allow a more precise fit in the grooves that you'll dig out.
2-2. Apply lacquer to the wood.
Over time, the wood in your enclosure may begin to rot. It will also get dirty and may be difficult to clean if you do not stain the wood first. Staining will help protect the wood to ensure a longer life for your enclosure.
2-3. Cut the wood to size.
Once you've assessed the size needs of your snake and determined the final dimensions, you'll be ready to cut your wood. It can be helpful to mark the sizes in chalk or pencil before cutting so that you have precise measurements and straight lines to cut along.
Make sure you wear personal protective equipment (PPE) while working with wood. This includes safety glasses, gloves, earplugs, a respirator, and a padded kickback apron.
Cut each piece as a solid rectangle. You only need to cut the sides, back, top, and bottom.
The front face will be a glass or plastic panel held in place by the top, bottom, and sides.
2-4. Dig out a groove for the glass.
Before you can complete the enclosure's assembly, you'll need to make room for the glass or plastic panel and insert it into place. This will be done using a router to gouge out the wood.
Dig the groove 0.5 inches (1.25 centimeters) from the face of what will be the outside wall of the enclosure.
You'll need to cut grooves in the front face of the top and bottom pieces as well as down the sides.
Slide the glass or plastic panel into each groove to ensure that it fits snugly in place.
2-5. Assemble the enclosure.
Use a power drill to bore holes in the sides, back, and bottom of the enclosure, then screw them into place. If your cage will open from the side, attach the back, bottom, top, and one side of the panel, leaving the opening side unattached.
Make sure the grooves for the glass or plastic panel line up evenly.
Before you attach the top, slide the glass or plastic panel into place so that your enclosure is complete. If you are making a side-opening enclosure, wait before attaching your chosen side's panel.
Make sure there are no gaps around the glass or plastic panel.
Use an adhesive that's approved for use around pets to seal up any gaps where the panel fits into your wooden frame. You can find these products at your local hardware store or through an online retailer.
2-6. Attach the opening panel.
If you're building an enclosure that opens from the top, then you'll be attaching the top panel with hinges. If your enclosure opens from the side, then your chosen side's panel will be the opening that you affix with hinges.
Measure where you will need to attach the hinges onto the opening panel (either the top or one side). Then measure where the hinges will attach to the back panel.
Use a power drill to bore holes for the hinges, then screw the hinges into place.
Attach hook-and-eye latches to each corner of the opening panel. It's typically a good idea to use multiple latches instead of just one since some snakes are strong enough to break through weak doors.
Drill several small holes for ventilation in the opening panel (either the top or the side of your enclosure).
3. Preparing the Enclosure for Your Snake
3-1. Lay down a substrate.
Your snake will feel most comfortable if there is some type of substrate at the bottom of the enclosure. The materials you use, though, will depend on your snake and its traditional habitat in the wild.
Snakes that naturally live in the desert will need fine-grain sand for a substrate.
For other snakes, unprinted paper (such as unprinted newspaper pages or butcher's paper) can be laid down in shredded layers.
Still other snakes will prefer clean leaf litter as a substrate.
Talk to a veterinarian or a snake expert at your local pet store to determine what type of substrate would work best for your snake.
3-2. Include vegetation.
Most snakes like some type of vegetative cover since they're typically used to having this in the wild. Different snake species are used to different habitats, and the types of plants you provide should reflect what your snake would live with in nature. However, once you've identified the best type of vegetation, you will need to choose between live plants and artificial plants.
Chinese evergreen, ferns, small palms, philodendron, bromeliads, and begonias are all plants that are commonly used in snake enclosures.
Live plants can be difficult to maintain and frequently carry pests or diseases. For this reason, many experts advise against using live plants and advocate for artificial plants instead.
3-3. Provide food and water dishes.
All snakes need a constant supply of fresh drinking water. Snakes will need food as well. All snakes are predatory carnivores, which means that your snake will need live, frozen, or recently-killed organisms in order to survive.
Try to provide a water dish that is large enough for your snake to immerse itself in. Be sure the water dish you purchase is heavy enough that it will not get tipped over as your snake climbs in or out.
The food you feed your snake will depend on the diet of that species. Most pet snake species eat mice, rats, gerbils, or hamsters, though smaller snakes may eat insects, frogs, or amphibians.
Ask your veterinarian or a snake expert at your local pet store about what type of diet is best for your snake.
3-4. Introduce your snake to the enclosure.
Once you've got everything set up, you'll be ready to introduce your pet snake to its new home. Give your snake time to adjust to its new surroundings before you attempt to handle the snake or remove it from the enclosure, as it may be frightened or confused after being transferred to its new home.
Warnings
Do not attempt to build your own snake enclosure unless you have some basic experience with woodwork or furniture building.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:06",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Enclosure\\n1-1. Gather your materials.\\nYou'll want to make sure you have everything you need before you begin. In addition to the actual building materials, you'll also need several tools, including a power drill, a router, measuring tape, screws, hinges, and one or two hook-and-eye latches for the enclosure's opening.\\nWood is the primary structural material. You'll be using it to assemble most of the enclosure.\\nHigh-pressure particleboard with a laminate coating, pre-built shelving, or high-quality plywood are all ideal types of wood for the enclosure.\\nBe sure you stain the wood before beginning.\\nYou'll also need to choose between glass or thermoplastic for the panels of your enclosure. Glass and plastic both help retain heat inside the enclosure, though plastic may be more effective.\\n1-2. Plan the size of your enclosure.\\nBefore you measure and cut any pieces, you'll need to decide how large your enclosure should be. This will be determined by the size of your snake. If your snake is still growing, size your enclosure to its estimated adult size, which a breeder or snake expert at your local pet store should be able to tell you.\\nGenerally speaking, most snakes need at least enough space to stretch out across the cage.\\nSmaller sized snakes like garter and grass snakes can be kept in smaller enclosures, so long as they have enough room.\\nMedium- to large-sized snakes, including king snakes, rat snakes, milk snakes, and gopher snakes, require larger enclosures.\\nBe aware that climbing snakes will do better in a taller enclosure, while burrowing snakes will do better in a longer enclosure.\\n1-3. Determine where to place the opening.\\nGenerally speaking, if your snake is venomous or is capable of moving particularly fast, it's best to put the opening on top of the enclosure. This will help prevent escape attempts while the enclosure is open for feeding or cleaning. If your snake is not venomous and does not move quickly, you can put the opening on the side of the enclosure. \\nHaving a side-opening enclosure allows you to stack your snake's habitat between other enclosures (if you have more than one). You will not have this option if you put the opening on the top of the enclosure.\\nIf your snake will need an artificial heat source, it may be easiest to put the opening on top of the enclosure. If you're using a glass panel, you may be able to simply place the heat lamp directly on the glass.\\n2. Building the Enclosure\\n2-1. Measure your building materials.\\nBefore you can actually build the enclosure, you'll need to measure its components. It's important to be as precise as possible with your measurements since a gap in the enclosure could make it easy for your snake to escape.\\nSmaller snakes can be kept in a 10- or 20-gallon tank. This measures out to either 20 inches by 10 inches by 12 inches (51 by 25 by 30.5 centimeters), or up to 24 inches by 12 inches by 16 inches (61 by 30.5 by 40.5 centimeters)\\nMedium-to-large sized snakes typically need between 30- and 55-gallon tanks. This measures out to 36 inches by 12 inches by 16 inches (91.5 by 30.5 by 40.5 centimeters) or up to 48 inches by 13 inches by 20 inches (122 by 33 by 51 centimeters).\\nThe glass or plastic panel you use as a window for the front of the enclosure should measure a few tenths of an inch (less than a centimeter) shorter than the back wooden panel. This will allow a more precise fit in the grooves that you'll dig out.\\n2-2. Apply lacquer to the wood.\\nOver time, the wood in your enclosure may begin to rot. It will also get dirty and may be difficult to clean if you do not stain the wood first. Staining will help protect the wood to ensure a longer life for your enclosure.\\n2-3. Cut the wood to size.\\nOnce you've assessed the size needs of your snake and determined the final dimensions, you'll be ready to cut your wood. It can be helpful to mark the sizes in chalk or pencil before cutting so that you have precise measurements and straight lines to cut along.\\nMake sure you wear personal protective equipment (PPE) while working with wood. This includes safety glasses, gloves, earplugs, a respirator, and a padded kickback apron.\\nCut each piece as a solid rectangle. You only need to cut the sides, back, top, and bottom.\\nThe front face will be a glass or plastic panel held in place by the top, bottom, and sides.\\n2-4. Dig out a groove for the glass.\\nBefore you can complete the enclosure's assembly, you'll need to make room for the glass or plastic panel and insert it into place. This will be done using a router to gouge out the wood.\\nDig the groove 0.5 inches (1.25 centimeters) from the face of what will be the outside wall of the enclosure.\\nYou'll need to cut grooves in the front face of the top and bottom pieces as well as down the sides.\\nSlide the glass or plastic panel into each groove to ensure that it fits snugly in place.\\n2-5. Assemble the enclosure.\\nUse a power drill to bore holes in the sides, back, and bottom of the enclosure, then screw them into place. If your cage will open from the side, attach the back, bottom, top, and one side of the panel, leaving the opening side unattached.\\nMake sure the grooves for the glass or plastic panel line up evenly.\\nBefore you attach the top, slide the glass or plastic panel into place so that your enclosure is complete. If you are making a side-opening enclosure, wait before attaching your chosen side's panel.\\nMake sure there are no gaps around the glass or plastic panel.\\nUse an adhesive that's approved for use around pets to seal up any gaps where the panel fits into your wooden frame. You can find these products at your local hardware store or through an online retailer.\\n2-6. Attach the opening panel.\\nIf you're building an enclosure that opens from the top, then you'll be attaching the top panel with hinges. If your enclosure opens from the side, then your chosen side's panel will be the opening that you affix with hinges.\\nMeasure where you will need to attach the hinges onto the opening panel (either the top or one side). Then measure where the hinges will attach to the back panel.\\nUse a power drill to bore holes for the hinges, then screw the hinges into place.\\nAttach hook-and-eye latches to each corner of the opening panel. It's typically a good idea to use multiple latches instead of just one since some snakes are strong enough to break through weak doors.\\nDrill several small holes for ventilation in the opening panel (either the top or the side of your enclosure).\\n3. Preparing the Enclosure for Your Snake\\n3-1. Lay down a substrate.\\nYour snake will feel most comfortable if there is some type of substrate at the bottom of the enclosure. The materials you use, though, will depend on your snake and its traditional habitat in the wild.\\nSnakes that naturally live in the desert will need fine-grain sand for a substrate.\\nFor other snakes, unprinted paper (such as unprinted newspaper pages or butcher's paper) can be laid down in shredded layers.\\nStill other snakes will prefer clean leaf litter as a substrate.\\nTalk to a veterinarian or a snake expert at your local pet store to determine what type of substrate would work best for your snake.\\n3-2. Include vegetation.\\nMost snakes like some type of vegetative cover since they're typically used to having this in the wild. Different snake species are used to different habitats, and the types of plants you provide should reflect what your snake would live with in nature. However, once you've identified the best type of vegetation, you will need to choose between live plants and artificial plants.\\nChinese evergreen, ferns, small palms, philodendron, bromeliads, and begonias are all plants that are commonly used in snake enclosures.\\nLive plants can be difficult to maintain and frequently carry pests or diseases. For this reason, many experts advise against using live plants and advocate for artificial plants instead.\\n3-3. Provide food and water dishes.\\nAll snakes need a constant supply of fresh drinking water. Snakes will need food as well. All snakes are predatory carnivores, which means that your snake will need live, frozen, or recently-killed organisms in order to survive.\\nTry to provide a water dish that is large enough for your snake to immerse itself in. Be sure the water dish you purchase is heavy enough that it will not get tipped over as your snake climbs in or out.\\nThe food you feed your snake will depend on the diet of that species. Most pet snake species eat mice, rats, gerbils, or hamsters, though smaller snakes may eat insects, frogs, or amphibians.\\nAsk your veterinarian or a snake expert at your local pet store about what type of diet is best for your snake.\\n3-4. Introduce your snake to the enclosure.\\nOnce you've got everything set up, you'll be ready to introduce your pet snake to its new home. Give your snake time to adjust to its new surroundings before you attempt to handle the snake or remove it from the enclosure, as it may be frightened or confused after being transferred to its new home.\\nWarnings\\nDo not attempt to build your own snake enclosure unless you have some basic experience with woodwork or furniture building.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you are interested in owning a reptile such as a snake for a pet, the first thing you'll need is an enclosure to house the animal. You can purchase an enclosure from a pet store, or you can build your own at home. You'll need some basic building skills and supplies, most of which can be purchased at your local hardware store. By creating the right environment for your snake, you'll be doing your part to help it live a long and happy life.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Enclosure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want to make sure you have everything you need before you begin. In addition to the actual building materials, you'll also need several tools, including a power drill, a router, measuring tape, screws, hinges, and one or two hook-and-eye latches for the enclosure's opening.\\nWood is the primary structural material. You'll be using it to assemble most of the enclosure.\\nHigh-pressure particleboard with a laminate coating, pre-built shelving, or high-quality plywood are all ideal types of wood for the enclosure.\\nBe sure you stain the wood before beginning.\\nYou'll also need to choose between glass or thermoplastic for the panels of your enclosure. Glass and plastic both help retain heat inside the enclosure, though plastic may be more effective.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan the size of your enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"Before you measure and cut any pieces, you'll need to decide how large your enclosure should be. This will be determined by the size of your snake. If your snake is still growing, size your enclosure to its estimated adult size, which a breeder or snake expert at your local pet store should be able to tell you.\\nGenerally speaking, most snakes need at least enough space to stretch out across the cage.\\nSmaller sized snakes like garter and grass snakes can be kept in smaller enclosures, so long as they have enough room.\\nMedium- to large-sized snakes, including king snakes, rat snakes, milk snakes, and gopher snakes, require larger enclosures.\\nBe aware that climbing snakes will do better in a taller enclosure, while burrowing snakes will do better in a longer enclosure.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Determine where to place the opening.\", \"描述\": \"Generally speaking, if your snake is venomous or is capable of moving particularly fast, it's best to put the opening on top of the enclosure. This will help prevent escape attempts while the enclosure is open for feeding or cleaning. If your snake is not venomous and does not move quickly, you can put the opening on the side of the enclosure. \\nHaving a side-opening enclosure allows you to stack your snake's habitat between other enclosures (if you have more than one). You will not have this option if you put the opening on the top of the enclosure.\\nIf your snake will need an artificial heat source, it may be easiest to put the opening on top of the enclosure. If you're using a glass panel, you may be able to simply place the heat lamp directly on the glass.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Enclosure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your building materials.\", \"描述\": \"Before you can actually build the enclosure, you'll need to measure its components. It's important to be as precise as possible with your measurements since a gap in the enclosure could make it easy for your snake to escape.\\nSmaller snakes can be kept in a 10- or 20-gallon tank. This measures out to either 20 inches by 10 inches by 12 inches (51 by 25 by 30.5 centimeters), or up to 24 inches by 12 inches by 16 inches (61 by 30.5 by 40.5 centimeters)\\nMedium-to-large sized snakes typically need between 30- and 55-gallon tanks. This measures out to 36 inches by 12 inches by 16 inches (91.5 by 30.5 by 40.5 centimeters) or up to 48 inches by 13 inches by 20 inches (122 by 33 by 51 centimeters).\\nThe glass or plastic panel you use as a window for the front of the enclosure should measure a few tenths of an inch (less than a centimeter) shorter than the back wooden panel. This will allow a more precise fit in the grooves that you'll dig out.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply lacquer to the wood.\", \"描述\": \"Over time, the wood in your enclosure may begin to rot. It will also get dirty and may be difficult to clean if you do not stain the wood first. Staining will help protect the wood to ensure a longer life for your enclosure.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the wood to size.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've assessed the size needs of your snake and determined the final dimensions, you'll be ready to cut your wood. It can be helpful to mark the sizes in chalk or pencil before cutting so that you have precise measurements and straight lines to cut along.\\nMake sure you wear personal protective equipment (PPE) while working with wood. This includes safety glasses, gloves, earplugs, a respirator, and a padded kickback apron.\\nCut each piece as a solid rectangle. You only need to cut the sides, back, top, and bottom.\\nThe front face will be a glass or plastic panel held in place by the top, bottom, and sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig out a groove for the glass.\", \"描述\": \"Before you can complete the enclosure's assembly, you'll need to make room for the glass or plastic panel and insert it into place. This will be done using a router to gouge out the wood.\\nDig the groove 0.5 inches (1.25 centimeters) from the face of what will be the outside wall of the enclosure.\\nYou'll need to cut grooves in the front face of the top and bottom pieces as well as down the sides.\\nSlide the glass or plastic panel into each groove to ensure that it fits snugly in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Assemble the enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"Use a power drill to bore holes in the sides, back, and bottom of the enclosure, then screw them into place. If your cage will open from the side, attach the back, bottom, top, and one side of the panel, leaving the opening side unattached.\\nMake sure the grooves for the glass or plastic panel line up evenly.\\nBefore you attach the top, slide the glass or plastic panel into place so that your enclosure is complete. If you are making a side-opening enclosure, wait before attaching your chosen side's panel.\\nMake sure there are no gaps around the glass or plastic panel.\\nUse an adhesive that's approved for use around pets to seal up any gaps where the panel fits into your wooden frame. You can find these products at your local hardware store or through an online retailer.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the opening panel.\", \"描述\": \"If you're building an enclosure that opens from the top, then you'll be attaching the top panel with hinges. If your enclosure opens from the side, then your chosen side's panel will be the opening that you affix with hinges.\\nMeasure where you will need to attach the hinges onto the opening panel (either the top or one side). Then measure where the hinges will attach to the back panel.\\nUse a power drill to bore holes for the hinges, then screw the hinges into place.\\nAttach hook-and-eye latches to each corner of the opening panel. It's typically a good idea to use multiple latches instead of just one since some snakes are strong enough to break through weak doors.\\nDrill several small holes for ventilation in the opening panel (either the top or the side of your enclosure).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Enclosure for Your Snake\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay down a substrate.\", \"描述\": \"Your snake will feel most comfortable if there is some type of substrate at the bottom of the enclosure. The materials you use, though, will depend on your snake and its traditional habitat in the wild.\\nSnakes that naturally live in the desert will need fine-grain sand for a substrate.\\nFor other snakes, unprinted paper (such as unprinted newspaper pages or butcher's paper) can be laid down in shredded layers.\\nStill other snakes will prefer clean leaf litter as a substrate.\\nTalk to a veterinarian or a snake expert at your local pet store to determine what type of substrate would work best for your snake.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Include vegetation.\", \"描述\": \"Most snakes like some type of vegetative cover since they're typically used to having this in the wild. Different snake species are used to different habitats, and the types of plants you provide should reflect what your snake would live with in nature. However, once you've identified the best type of vegetation, you will need to choose between live plants and artificial plants.\\nChinese evergreen, ferns, small palms, philodendron, bromeliads, and begonias are all plants that are commonly used in snake enclosures.\\nLive plants can be difficult to maintain and frequently carry pests or diseases. For this reason, many experts advise against using live plants and advocate for artificial plants instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Provide food and water dishes.\", \"描述\": \"All snakes need a constant supply of fresh drinking water. Snakes will need food as well. All snakes are predatory carnivores, which means that your snake will need live, frozen, or recently-killed organisms in order to survive.\\nTry to provide a water dish that is large enough for your snake to immerse itself in. Be sure the water dish you purchase is heavy enough that it will not get tipped over as your snake climbs in or out.\\nThe food you feed your snake will depend on the diet of that species. Most pet snake species eat mice, rats, gerbils, or hamsters, though smaller snakes may eat insects, frogs, or amphibians.\\nAsk your veterinarian or a snake expert at your local pet store about what type of diet is best for your snake.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Introduce your snake to the enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've got everything set up, you'll be ready to introduce your pet snake to its new home. Give your snake time to adjust to its new surroundings before you attempt to handle the snake or remove it from the enclosure, as it may be frightened or confused after being transferred to its new home.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not attempt to build your own snake enclosure unless you have some basic experience with woodwork or furniture building.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,553 |
How to Build a Snow Cave
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1. Selecting a Spot and Preparing
1-1. Avoid areas of rockfall or windy slopes.
Take care not to dig a snow cave under the path of a potential avalanche or rockfall. Slopes with the wind blowing against them could be dangerous if you are staying overnight, as blowing snow could clog the entrance tunnel and block access to the outside air.
1-2. Find an area with deep snow.
If you can find a snowdrift at least five feet (1.5m) deep, a lot of your work will be done for you. Look for areas where the wind has blown the snow against a slope. Keep in mind you'll also need an area large enough to house however many people you have. A ten foot (3 m) diameter cave is comfortable for two or three people.
1-3. Test the consistency of the snow.
Light, powdery snow may be difficult to work with, and is more likely to collapse. Fortunately, snow tends to harden once disturbed, so if you have the time to pile it up and wait for it to harden, you will likely still be able to form it into a snow cave.
1-4. If conditions aren't right, consider a trench instead.
If you are in an emergency situation, one alternative is to dig a trench in the snow and use a tarp to cover it. Prop the tarp up with ski poles or branches stuck in the snow. This is easier and faster to dig, but will not provide the same warmth as a snow cave, and could become buried in a snowstorm.
1-5. Check that you have the clothing and equipment you need.
Warm, waterproof clothing is essential if you are out in the wilderness. Consider removing one or two dry under-layers of clothing before you begin working so you have something to change into if your clothing gets wet while digging. As for equipment, a compact snow shovel or two will make the snow cave's construction much easier. A non-smoke-producing light source is useful for overnight stays, but a candle or other small flame source can be used if you remember to create a ventilation hole.
Ventilation holes are described further on in this article.
1-6. Find a friend to help.
Having at least two people build a cave together is highly recommended. Keep one person outside of the cave with a spare shovel at all times. This way, if the cave collapses during the digging, the person on the outside can shovel away the snow to rescue the person trapped inside.
2. Hollowing Out the Cave
2-1. Work slowly but methodically.
Work in shifts if you have more than one person, and take breaks for eating and drinking. Working slowly but efficiently, without breaking a sweat, will keep you warmer and safer than trying to rush the job. Sweating can cause heat loss, which increases the risk of hypothermia.
2-2. Pile up the snow if necessary.
Unless the snowdrifts in your area are deep enough already, you'll need to shovel the snow into a pile at least five feet (1.5m) tall, and large enough to fit the number of people it will be sheltering.
A quick way to pile up snow is to find a short slope and use your shovel to push the snowdrift down to the base of the slope. Beware of taller slopes with additional snowdrifts higher up, however, as your snow cave could be buried in an avalanche.
2-3. Pack the snow firmly.
Pack the snow pile or snowdrift by stomping on it with snowshoes or laying a plywood board over it and stomping on that. If the snow is light and powdery, you may wish to pack it down several times as you create the snow pile, in addition to a final pack when the pile is tall enough.
2-4. Allow two or more hours for the cold air to harden your snow pile.
This makes the snow firmer and will reduce the risk of the cave from collapsing in on you while you dig it out. Waiting at least two hours is recommended, and you may need to wait up to 24 hours if the snow is powdery and dry.
2-5. Dig a tunnel into the snow.
If you made a snow pile, dig a tunnel easily wide enough to crawl through and several feet deep, sloping upward. If you are digging into a deep snowdrift, dig a trench 5 or more feet down for you to stand in, then dig a tunnel at the base of the trench. You may find this easier if you have a compact snow shovel, available at backpacking or mountaineering stores.
If you are building a snow cave for fun and don't mind taking extra time, you can avoid some discomfort by digging a "doorway" several feet tall instead of a tunnel. Once you've completed the snow cave, wall up most of the doorway with additional snow, leaving a tunnel to exit through.
2-6. Stick ski poles or branches into the snow pile as a guideline.
Stick these objects about 12–18 inches (30–46cm) into the snow pile. While digging out the snow cave from the inside, stop when you encounter these objects. Without this guideline, you may accidentally dig the ceiling too thin and expose your snow cave to the elements, or even cause a collapse.
2-7. Hollow out the dome of the cave.
Shovel snow from the center of the pile or snowdrift out through your tunnel. Once you've hollowed out enough room for your whole body at the end of the tunnel, you can stay there and use your feet to push the snow through the tunnel.Make sure the ceiling of the snow cave remains at least 1 foot (0.3m) thick to minimize the chance of collapse. The sides should be several inches (8 or more cm) thicker than the ceiling.
Try to make the floor of the cave higher than the entrance. This will keep the sleeping area warm as the cold air gathers in the entrance tunnel.
3. Finishing the Cave
3-1. In freezing temperatures, strengthen the cave by pouring water over the outside.
If the temperature is below freezing and you have water to spare, pour water over the outside of the cave. This will freeze into ice and create a sturdier structure.
Never pour water over the cave if the temperature is above freezing.
3-2. Smooth the inside roof and walls to prevent dripping.
Scrape the walls and roof of the cave to make it smooth. Irregular, bumpy surfaces will drip water onto the cave floor, instead of directing water down the walls to gather around the edges.
If dripping is still a problem, carve grooves leading down the walls.
3-3. Mark the outside of the cave.
Use brightly colored gear or conspicuously placed branches to mark the edge of your cave. This may help people find the cave again, and stop them from walking on the roof and causing a collapse.
If you are in an emergency situation awaiting rescue, make sure the gear is visible from the air, not hidden underneath trees or other obstructions.
3-4. Carve in benches and sleeping areas as needed.
The higher the benches/sleeping platforms are, the better, as cold air will sink below the bench keeping you warmer. You may wish to create shelves for easier gear storage, and a trench to make sitting or standing easier.
3-5. Create ventilation holes.
Snow caves can become quite insulated from the outside air, especially if moisture from your breath creates an icy layer on the inside wall. To prevent suffocation, use a ski pole or other long object to create an angled hole or two at the slanting edge of the roof. Make sure this hole goes all the way through the roof.
Because ventilation holes will cause some warm air to escape, you may wish to cover the hole with a snowball or other object, then remove it if the air feels stuffy or anyone feels dizzy. Remove the object before you go to sleep.
3-6. Cover the ground with insulating material.
Gather pine branches to place on the floor of the cave, to slow the escape of warmth through the ground. Sleep on camping pads, but be aware that inflatable pads may not keep you warm in cold weather.
3-7. Move your shovels inside.
While staying in the cave, always make sure you have shovels inside with you so you can dig yourself out in case of collapse or a blocked entrance. Shovel the entrance out regularly during a blizzard.
If too much warm air is escaping through the entrance, block it with a backpack or other easily removed object. Do not wall yourself up.This will also help you hide from animals such as mountain lions and bears.
Tips
If the snow is not easy to pack and you have a large group, several smaller caves may be faster to create than one large cave.
If water from melting snow is dripping, compact it with more snow.
The roof can collapse at any time, so make sure you have an escape plan.
Warnings
If you plan to sleep several days in your snow cave, make sure to scrape an inch or two of melted snow off of the walls after each night. This keeps the snow porous and lets moisture escape to the outside instead of gathering inside the cave and soaking the people inside.
Building a snow cave is hard work. Be sure to have others to help share the load and have one person in charge of preparing energy-rich, hot food to supply the working team with.
Always leave the entrance uncovered if you have a candle or other flame. Even using a small cooking stove or candle can be lethal, as it can lead to a buildup of carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is only slightly lighter than air, and small ceiling air holes may not be enough to vent the gas.[7]
X
Research source
Building a fire or running a stove inside is not recommended, as it uses up oxygen and produces dangerous gas. It can also cause the snow to melt, then freeze into a layer of ice. This traps moisture in the cave, soaking the inhabitants.[8]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:06",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Selecting a Spot and Preparing\\n1-1. Avoid areas of rockfall or windy slopes.\\nTake care not to dig a snow cave under the path of a potential avalanche or rockfall. Slopes with the wind blowing against them could be dangerous if you are staying overnight, as blowing snow could clog the entrance tunnel and block access to the outside air.\\n1-2. Find an area with deep snow.\\nIf you can find a snowdrift at least five feet (1.5m) deep, a lot of your work will be done for you. Look for areas where the wind has blown the snow against a slope. Keep in mind you'll also need an area large enough to house however many people you have. A ten foot (3 m) diameter cave is comfortable for two or three people.\\n1-3. Test the consistency of the snow.\\nLight, powdery snow may be difficult to work with, and is more likely to collapse. Fortunately, snow tends to harden once disturbed, so if you have the time to pile it up and wait for it to harden, you will likely still be able to form it into a snow cave.\\n1-4. If conditions aren't right, consider a trench instead.\\nIf you are in an emergency situation, one alternative is to dig a trench in the snow and use a tarp to cover it. Prop the tarp up with ski poles or branches stuck in the snow. This is easier and faster to dig, but will not provide the same warmth as a snow cave, and could become buried in a snowstorm.\\n1-5. Check that you have the clothing and equipment you need.\\nWarm, waterproof clothing is essential if you are out in the wilderness. Consider removing one or two dry under-layers of clothing before you begin working so you have something to change into if your clothing gets wet while digging. As for equipment, a compact snow shovel or two will make the snow cave's construction much easier. A non-smoke-producing light source is useful for overnight stays, but a candle or other small flame source can be used if you remember to create a ventilation hole. \\nVentilation holes are described further on in this article.\\n1-6. Find a friend to help.\\nHaving at least two people build a cave together is highly recommended. Keep one person outside of the cave with a spare shovel at all times. This way, if the cave collapses during the digging, the person on the outside can shovel away the snow to rescue the person trapped inside.\\n2. Hollowing Out the Cave\\n2-1. Work slowly but methodically.\\nWork in shifts if you have more than one person, and take breaks for eating and drinking. Working slowly but efficiently, without breaking a sweat, will keep you warmer and safer than trying to rush the job. Sweating can cause heat loss, which increases the risk of hypothermia.\\n2-2. Pile up the snow if necessary.\\nUnless the snowdrifts in your area are deep enough already, you'll need to shovel the snow into a pile at least five feet (1.5m) tall, and large enough to fit the number of people it will be sheltering.\\nA quick way to pile up snow is to find a short slope and use your shovel to push the snowdrift down to the base of the slope. Beware of taller slopes with additional snowdrifts higher up, however, as your snow cave could be buried in an avalanche.\\n2-3. Pack the snow firmly.\\nPack the snow pile or snowdrift by stomping on it with snowshoes or laying a plywood board over it and stomping on that. If the snow is light and powdery, you may wish to pack it down several times as you create the snow pile, in addition to a final pack when the pile is tall enough.\\n2-4. Allow two or more hours for the cold air to harden your snow pile.\\nThis makes the snow firmer and will reduce the risk of the cave from collapsing in on you while you dig it out. Waiting at least two hours is recommended, and you may need to wait up to 24 hours if the snow is powdery and dry.\\n2-5. Dig a tunnel into the snow.\\nIf you made a snow pile, dig a tunnel easily wide enough to crawl through and several feet deep, sloping upward. If you are digging into a deep snowdrift, dig a trench 5 or more feet down for you to stand in, then dig a tunnel at the base of the trench. You may find this easier if you have a compact snow shovel, available at backpacking or mountaineering stores.\\nIf you are building a snow cave for fun and don't mind taking extra time, you can avoid some discomfort by digging a \\\"doorway\\\" several feet tall instead of a tunnel. Once you've completed the snow cave, wall up most of the doorway with additional snow, leaving a tunnel to exit through.\\n2-6. Stick ski poles or branches into the snow pile as a guideline.\\nStick these objects about 12–18 inches (30–46cm) into the snow pile. While digging out the snow cave from the inside, stop when you encounter these objects. Without this guideline, you may accidentally dig the ceiling too thin and expose your snow cave to the elements, or even cause a collapse.\\n2-7. Hollow out the dome of the cave.\\nShovel snow from the center of the pile or snowdrift out through your tunnel. Once you've hollowed out enough room for your whole body at the end of the tunnel, you can stay there and use your feet to push the snow through the tunnel.Make sure the ceiling of the snow cave remains at least 1 foot (0.3m) thick to minimize the chance of collapse. The sides should be several inches (8 or more cm) thicker than the ceiling.\\nTry to make the floor of the cave higher than the entrance. This will keep the sleeping area warm as the cold air gathers in the entrance tunnel.\\n3. Finishing the Cave\\n3-1. In freezing temperatures, strengthen the cave by pouring water over the outside.\\nIf the temperature is below freezing and you have water to spare, pour water over the outside of the cave. This will freeze into ice and create a sturdier structure. \\nNever pour water over the cave if the temperature is above freezing.\\n3-2. Smooth the inside roof and walls to prevent dripping.\\nScrape the walls and roof of the cave to make it smooth. Irregular, bumpy surfaces will drip water onto the cave floor, instead of directing water down the walls to gather around the edges.\\nIf dripping is still a problem, carve grooves leading down the walls.\\n3-3. Mark the outside of the cave.\\nUse brightly colored gear or conspicuously placed branches to mark the edge of your cave. This may help people find the cave again, and stop them from walking on the roof and causing a collapse. \\nIf you are in an emergency situation awaiting rescue, make sure the gear is visible from the air, not hidden underneath trees or other obstructions.\\n3-4. Carve in benches and sleeping areas as needed.\\nThe higher the benches/sleeping platforms are, the better, as cold air will sink below the bench keeping you warmer. You may wish to create shelves for easier gear storage, and a trench to make sitting or standing easier.\\n3-5. Create ventilation holes.\\nSnow caves can become quite insulated from the outside air, especially if moisture from your breath creates an icy layer on the inside wall. To prevent suffocation, use a ski pole or other long object to create an angled hole or two at the slanting edge of the roof. Make sure this hole goes all the way through the roof.\\nBecause ventilation holes will cause some warm air to escape, you may wish to cover the hole with a snowball or other object, then remove it if the air feels stuffy or anyone feels dizzy. Remove the object before you go to sleep.\\n3-6. Cover the ground with insulating material.\\nGather pine branches to place on the floor of the cave, to slow the escape of warmth through the ground. Sleep on camping pads, but be aware that inflatable pads may not keep you warm in cold weather.\\n3-7. Move your shovels inside.\\nWhile staying in the cave, always make sure you have shovels inside with you so you can dig yourself out in case of collapse or a blocked entrance. Shovel the entrance out regularly during a blizzard. \\nIf too much warm air is escaping through the entrance, block it with a backpack or other easily removed object. Do not wall yourself up.This will also help you hide from animals such as mountain lions and bears.\\nTips\\nIf the snow is not easy to pack and you have a large group, several smaller caves may be faster to create than one large cave.\\nIf water from melting snow is dripping, compact it with more snow.\\nThe roof can collapse at any time, so make sure you have an escape plan.\\nWarnings\\nIf you plan to sleep several days in your snow cave, make sure to scrape an inch or two of melted snow off of the walls after each night. This keeps the snow porous and lets moisture escape to the outside instead of gathering inside the cave and soaking the people inside.\\nBuilding a snow cave is hard work. Be sure to have others to help share the load and have one person in charge of preparing energy-rich, hot food to supply the working team with.\\nAlways leave the entrance uncovered if you have a candle or other flame. Even using a small cooking stove or candle can be lethal, as it can lead to a buildup of carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is only slightly lighter than air, and small ceiling air holes may not be enough to vent the gas.[7]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nBuilding a fire or running a stove inside is not recommended, as it uses up oxygen and produces dangerous gas. It can also cause the snow to melt, then freeze into a layer of ice. This traps moisture in the cave, soaking the inhabitants.[8]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Need to build an emergency shelter in the snow? Do you intend to camp out in the snow on a ski trek? Or are you trying to build the best snow fort your town has ever seen? Just want to relax? No matter what your reason is, make sure you follow each step carefully so your snow cave won't collapse on top of you. If you're willing to put in a few hours of hard work, and the snow conditions are right, you can make a snow cave to be proud of.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Selecting a Spot and Preparing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Avoid areas of rockfall or windy slopes.\", \"描述\": \"Take care not to dig a snow cave under the path of a potential avalanche or rockfall. Slopes with the wind blowing against them could be dangerous if you are staying overnight, as blowing snow could clog the entrance tunnel and block access to the outside air.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find an area with deep snow.\", \"描述\": \"If you can find a snowdrift at least five feet (1.5m) deep, a lot of your work will be done for you. Look for areas where the wind has blown the snow against a slope. Keep in mind you'll also need an area large enough to house however many people you have. A ten foot (3 m) diameter cave is comfortable for two or three people.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Test the consistency of the snow.\", \"描述\": \"Light, powdery snow may be difficult to work with, and is more likely to collapse. Fortunately, snow tends to harden once disturbed, so if you have the time to pile it up and wait for it to harden, you will likely still be able to form it into a snow cave.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"If conditions aren't right, consider a trench instead.\", \"描述\": \"If you are in an emergency situation, one alternative is to dig a trench in the snow and use a tarp to cover it. Prop the tarp up with ski poles or branches stuck in the snow. This is easier and faster to dig, but will not provide the same warmth as a snow cave, and could become buried in a snowstorm.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Check that you have the clothing and equipment you need.\", \"描述\": \"Warm, waterproof clothing is essential if you are out in the wilderness. Consider removing one or two dry under-layers of clothing before you begin working so you have something to change into if your clothing gets wet while digging. As for equipment, a compact snow shovel or two will make the snow cave's construction much easier. A non-smoke-producing light source is useful for overnight stays, but a candle or other small flame source can be used if you remember to create a ventilation hole. \\nVentilation holes are described further on in this article.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Find a friend to help.\", \"描述\": \"Having at least two people build a cave together is highly recommended. Keep one person outside of the cave with a spare shovel at all times. This way, if the cave collapses during the digging, the person on the outside can shovel away the snow to rescue the person trapped inside.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hollowing Out the Cave\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Work slowly but methodically.\", \"描述\": \"Work in shifts if you have more than one person, and take breaks for eating and drinking. Working slowly but efficiently, without breaking a sweat, will keep you warmer and safer than trying to rush the job. Sweating can cause heat loss, which increases the risk of hypothermia.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pile up the snow if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Unless the snowdrifts in your area are deep enough already, you'll need to shovel the snow into a pile at least five feet (1.5m) tall, and large enough to fit the number of people it will be sheltering.\\nA quick way to pile up snow is to find a short slope and use your shovel to push the snowdrift down to the base of the slope. Beware of taller slopes with additional snowdrifts higher up, however, as your snow cave could be buried in an avalanche.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pack the snow firmly.\", \"描述\": \"Pack the snow pile or snowdrift by stomping on it with snowshoes or laying a plywood board over it and stomping on that. If the snow is light and powdery, you may wish to pack it down several times as you create the snow pile, in addition to a final pack when the pile is tall enough.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Allow two or more hours for the cold air to harden your snow pile.\", \"描述\": \"This makes the snow firmer and will reduce the risk of the cave from collapsing in on you while you dig it out. Waiting at least two hours is recommended, and you may need to wait up to 24 hours if the snow is powdery and dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Dig a tunnel into the snow.\", \"描述\": \"If you made a snow pile, dig a tunnel easily wide enough to crawl through and several feet deep, sloping upward. If you are digging into a deep snowdrift, dig a trench 5 or more feet down for you to stand in, then dig a tunnel at the base of the trench. You may find this easier if you have a compact snow shovel, available at backpacking or mountaineering stores.\\nIf you are building a snow cave for fun and don't mind taking extra time, you can avoid some discomfort by digging a \\\"doorway\\\" several feet tall instead of a tunnel. Once you've completed the snow cave, wall up most of the doorway with additional snow, leaving a tunnel to exit through.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Stick ski poles or branches into the snow pile as a guideline.\", \"描述\": \"Stick these objects about 12–18 inches (30–46cm) into the snow pile. While digging out the snow cave from the inside, stop when you encounter these objects. Without this guideline, you may accidentally dig the ceiling too thin and expose your snow cave to the elements, or even cause a collapse.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Hollow out the dome of the cave.\", \"描述\": \"Shovel snow from the center of the pile or snowdrift out through your tunnel. Once you've hollowed out enough room for your whole body at the end of the tunnel, you can stay there and use your feet to push the snow through the tunnel.Make sure the ceiling of the snow cave remains at least 1 foot (0.3m) thick to minimize the chance of collapse. The sides should be several inches (8 or more cm) thicker than the ceiling.\\nTry to make the floor of the cave higher than the entrance. This will keep the sleeping area warm as the cold air gathers in the entrance tunnel.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Cave\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"In freezing temperatures, strengthen the cave by pouring water over the outside.\", \"描述\": \"If the temperature is below freezing and you have water to spare, pour water over the outside of the cave. This will freeze into ice and create a sturdier structure. \\nNever pour water over the cave if the temperature is above freezing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Smooth the inside roof and walls to prevent dripping.\", \"描述\": \"Scrape the walls and roof of the cave to make it smooth. Irregular, bumpy surfaces will drip water onto the cave floor, instead of directing water down the walls to gather around the edges.\\nIf dripping is still a problem, carve grooves leading down the walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the outside of the cave.\", \"描述\": \"Use brightly colored gear or conspicuously placed branches to mark the edge of your cave. This may help people find the cave again, and stop them from walking on the roof and causing a collapse. \\nIf you are in an emergency situation awaiting rescue, make sure the gear is visible from the air, not hidden underneath trees or other obstructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Carve in benches and sleeping areas as needed.\", \"描述\": \"The higher the benches/sleeping platforms are, the better, as cold air will sink below the bench keeping you warmer. You may wish to create shelves for easier gear storage, and a trench to make sitting or standing easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create ventilation holes.\", \"描述\": \"Snow caves can become quite insulated from the outside air, especially if moisture from your breath creates an icy layer on the inside wall. To prevent suffocation, use a ski pole or other long object to create an angled hole or two at the slanting edge of the roof. Make sure this hole goes all the way through the roof.\\nBecause ventilation holes will cause some warm air to escape, you may wish to cover the hole with a snowball or other object, then remove it if the air feels stuffy or anyone feels dizzy. Remove the object before you go to sleep.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cover the ground with insulating material.\", \"描述\": \"Gather pine branches to place on the floor of the cave, to slow the escape of warmth through the ground. Sleep on camping pads, but be aware that inflatable pads may not keep you warm in cold weather.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Move your shovels inside.\", \"描述\": \"While staying in the cave, always make sure you have shovels inside with you so you can dig yourself out in case of collapse or a blocked entrance. Shovel the entrance out regularly during a blizzard. \\nIf too much warm air is escaping through the entrance, block it with a backpack or other easily removed object. Do not wall yourself up.This will also help you hide from animals such as mountain lions and bears.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If the snow is not easy to pack and you have a large group, several smaller caves may be faster to create than one large cave.\\n\", \"If water from melting snow is dripping, compact it with more snow.\\n\", \"The roof can collapse at any time, so make sure you have an escape plan.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you plan to sleep several days in your snow cave, make sure to scrape an inch or two of melted snow off of the walls after each night. This keeps the snow porous and lets moisture escape to the outside instead of gathering inside the cave and soaking the people inside.\\n\", \"Building a snow cave is hard work. Be sure to have others to help share the load and have one person in charge of preparing energy-rich, hot food to supply the working team with.\\n\", \"Always leave the entrance uncovered if you have a candle or other flame. Even using a small cooking stove or candle can be lethal, as it can lead to a buildup of carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is only slightly lighter than air, and small ceiling air holes may not be enough to vent the gas.[7]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Building a fire or running a stove inside is not recommended, as it uses up oxygen and produces dangerous gas. It can also cause the snow to melt, then freeze into a layer of ice. This traps moisture in the cave, soaking the inhabitants.[8]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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7,554 |
How to Build a Snow Fort
|
1. Preparing to Build
1-1. Think about what kind of structure you want to make.
Snow forts can be anything from a simple one-wall design to more complex fortresses with four walls and a roof.
Part of this decision depends on how much snow you have.
Take into account length, depth and height as you estimate the amount of snow you'll need. Four feet is usually an adequate height.
1-2. Measure the size of the fort.
Use a shovel or branch to mark out the fort's perimeter. If you're low on snow, opt for a single wall with two wings on either side.
1-3. Find a good snowdrift.
If you don't have one, make it! Use shoveled snow from the driveway or anywhere else.
1-4. Make sure the snow is dense and not loose.
Test the snow by making a ball in your hands. If it sticks, the snow is prime for building. If not, see the next step for making your own denser snow.
1-5. Use snow bricks if you can't get strong snow.
Pack Tupperware containers, coolers, or plastic buckets full of as much snow as will fit, invert, and lift off the container.
Alternatively, pour cold water over the snow to make a layer of ice. If you're planning to dig a tunnel, leave a space with no water poured over it so you can dig more easily.
2. Building Your Snow Fort
2-1. Make your walls.
Use the packed snow or bricks to form walls, making sure that they are perpendicular on the inside of the fort.
If you're using bricks, work like a bricklayer: put down one layer, leaving a few inches (or centimeters) between each brick, and stacking the next level so that each brick straddles two underneath it. Have another person follow you by packing snow in between the bricks.
If you're digging a fort into a snowdrift, use a shovel or your hands and burrow your way into the pile. Once you've made your entrance, clear out a room from the inside with your hands or a small shovel.
2-2. Pack the outside of your walls with a shovel.
Smooth out the exterior of the walls, adding in extra snow for support if necessary. If you've used bricks, fill in the cracks in between the snow bricks, then smooth out with a shovel. Be careful not to break the blocks in doing so. The outside walls should slant just slightly for durability.
2-3. Pour water over the fort for a protective layer of ice.
The water freezes into ice, solidifying the structure and protecting it from melting.
Work from the bottom up to avoid ice overbearing the top and collapsing.
Make sure it's below freezing outside when you do this so the water turns quickly into ice.
3. Decorating Your Fort
3-1. Sprinkle cold water and food coloring on the fort to customize the color.
Dye the blocks as you make them by adding colored water to the snow, spritz colored water from a spray bottle, or mix food coloring in with the cold water you pour over as a finish.
3-2. To illuminate your fort, string low-power LED lights around it.
Low-powered lights generate minimal heat to reduce melting.
3-3. Add flags, snowmen, or other decorations.
If there's an abundance of snow, make guardian snowmen or turrets for your fort. Add some furniture if you have room. Carve designs into the exterior of the walls to customize your construction.
Tips
Invest in some waterproof gloves. They are available in sporting goods stores and will keep your hands warm and dry during construction. If you can't find any, have a few pairs of woolly gloves: when your hands get wet you can switch to a new pair while the soggy ones dry on a heater.
Find friends and family to help you build your fort.
Don't get angry over a broken fort. You can always build a new one!
Warnings
Don't make the top of the fort too heavy. You don't want it to cave in.
Try to select a position out of direct sunlight. This will help the fort last longer and reduce the risk of cave-ins.
Do not stand on your fort, as it may break.
Do not let animals into your fort that can destroy it.
ALWAYS have somebody outside a snow fort, both when you're building and when you're spending time in the fort. NEVER enter it alone. Collapses happen, and you can suffocate if no one is around to help you out.[10]
X
Research source
Avoid building your fort near a parking lot. Carbon monoxide fumes might accumulate in the fort, which could lead to poisoning and death.[11]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:06",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Build\\n1-1. Think about what kind of structure you want to make.\\nSnow forts can be anything from a simple one-wall design to more complex fortresses with four walls and a roof.\\nPart of this decision depends on how much snow you have.\\nTake into account length, depth and height as you estimate the amount of snow you'll need. Four feet is usually an adequate height.\\n1-2. Measure the size of the fort.\\nUse a shovel or branch to mark out the fort's perimeter. If you're low on snow, opt for a single wall with two wings on either side.\\n1-3. Find a good snowdrift.\\nIf you don't have one, make it! Use shoveled snow from the driveway or anywhere else.\\n1-4. Make sure the snow is dense and not loose.\\nTest the snow by making a ball in your hands. If it sticks, the snow is prime for building. If not, see the next step for making your own denser snow.\\n1-5. Use snow bricks if you can't get strong snow.\\nPack Tupperware containers, coolers, or plastic buckets full of as much snow as will fit, invert, and lift off the container. \\nAlternatively, pour cold water over the snow to make a layer of ice. If you're planning to dig a tunnel, leave a space with no water poured over it so you can dig more easily.\\n2. Building Your Snow Fort\\n2-1. Make your walls.\\nUse the packed snow or bricks to form walls, making sure that they are perpendicular on the inside of the fort.\\nIf you're using bricks, work like a bricklayer: put down one layer, leaving a few inches (or centimeters) between each brick, and stacking the next level so that each brick straddles two underneath it. Have another person follow you by packing snow in between the bricks.\\nIf you're digging a fort into a snowdrift, use a shovel or your hands and burrow your way into the pile. Once you've made your entrance, clear out a room from the inside with your hands or a small shovel.\\n2-2. Pack the outside of your walls with a shovel.\\nSmooth out the exterior of the walls, adding in extra snow for support if necessary. If you've used bricks, fill in the cracks in between the snow bricks, then smooth out with a shovel. Be careful not to break the blocks in doing so. The outside walls should slant just slightly for durability.\\n2-3. Pour water over the fort for a protective layer of ice.\\nThe water freezes into ice, solidifying the structure and protecting it from melting.\\nWork from the bottom up to avoid ice overbearing the top and collapsing.\\nMake sure it's below freezing outside when you do this so the water turns quickly into ice.\\n3. Decorating Your Fort\\n3-1. Sprinkle cold water and food coloring on the fort to customize the color.\\nDye the blocks as you make them by adding colored water to the snow, spritz colored water from a spray bottle, or mix food coloring in with the cold water you pour over as a finish.\\n3-2. To illuminate your fort, string low-power LED lights around it.\\nLow-powered lights generate minimal heat to reduce melting.\\n3-3. Add flags, snowmen, or other decorations.\\nIf there's an abundance of snow, make guardian snowmen or turrets for your fort. Add some furniture if you have room. Carve designs into the exterior of the walls to customize your construction.\\nTips\\nInvest in some waterproof gloves. They are available in sporting goods stores and will keep your hands warm and dry during construction. If you can't find any, have a few pairs of woolly gloves: when your hands get wet you can switch to a new pair while the soggy ones dry on a heater.\\nFind friends and family to help you build your fort.\\nDon't get angry over a broken fort. You can always build a new one!\\nWarnings\\nDon't make the top of the fort too heavy. You don't want it to cave in.\\nTry to select a position out of direct sunlight. This will help the fort last longer and reduce the risk of cave-ins.\\nDo not stand on your fort, as it may break.\\nDo not let animals into your fort that can destroy it.\\nALWAYS have somebody outside a snow fort, both when you're building and when you're spending time in the fort. NEVER enter it alone. Collapses happen, and you can suffocate if no one is around to help you out.[10]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nAvoid building your fort near a parking lot. Carbon monoxide fumes might accumulate in the fort, which could lead to poisoning and death.[11]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you're tired of the usual winter snow activities like sledding and snowball fights, consider making your own snow fort! Constructing a snow fort is a great family activity that gives you a winter-wonderland hang-out until the weather warms. Remember to always build with a buddy (or several) and to have a \\\"guard\\\" outside the fort in case of collapse.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Build\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Think about what kind of structure you want to make.\", \"描述\": \"Snow forts can be anything from a simple one-wall design to more complex fortresses with four walls and a roof.\\nPart of this decision depends on how much snow you have.\\nTake into account length, depth and height as you estimate the amount of snow you'll need. Four feet is usually an adequate height.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure the size of the fort.\", \"描述\": \"Use a shovel or branch to mark out the fort's perimeter. If you're low on snow, opt for a single wall with two wings on either side.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find a good snowdrift.\", \"描述\": \"If you don't have one, make it! Use shoveled snow from the driveway or anywhere else.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure the snow is dense and not loose.\", \"描述\": \"Test the snow by making a ball in your hands. If it sticks, the snow is prime for building. If not, see the next step for making your own denser snow.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use snow bricks if you can't get strong snow.\", \"描述\": \"Pack Tupperware containers, coolers, or plastic buckets full of as much snow as will fit, invert, and lift off the container. \\nAlternatively, pour cold water over the snow to make a layer of ice. If you're planning to dig a tunnel, leave a space with no water poured over it so you can dig more easily.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building Your Snow Fort\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make your walls.\", \"描述\": \"Use the packed snow or bricks to form walls, making sure that they are perpendicular on the inside of the fort.\\nIf you're using bricks, work like a bricklayer: put down one layer, leaving a few inches (or centimeters) between each brick, and stacking the next level so that each brick straddles two underneath it. Have another person follow you by packing snow in between the bricks.\\nIf you're digging a fort into a snowdrift, use a shovel or your hands and burrow your way into the pile. Once you've made your entrance, clear out a room from the inside with your hands or a small shovel.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pack the outside of your walls with a shovel.\", \"描述\": \"Smooth out the exterior of the walls, adding in extra snow for support if necessary. If you've used bricks, fill in the cracks in between the snow bricks, then smooth out with a shovel. Be careful not to break the blocks in doing so. The outside walls should slant just slightly for durability.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pour water over the fort for a protective layer of ice.\", \"描述\": \"The water freezes into ice, solidifying the structure and protecting it from melting.\\nWork from the bottom up to avoid ice overbearing the top and collapsing.\\nMake sure it's below freezing outside when you do this so the water turns quickly into ice.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decorating Your Fort\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sprinkle cold water and food coloring on the fort to customize the color.\", \"描述\": \"Dye the blocks as you make them by adding colored water to the snow, spritz colored water from a spray bottle, or mix food coloring in with the cold water you pour over as a finish.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"To illuminate your fort, string low-power LED lights around it.\", \"描述\": \"Low-powered lights generate minimal heat to reduce melting.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add flags, snowmen, or other decorations.\", \"描述\": \"If there's an abundance of snow, make guardian snowmen or turrets for your fort. Add some furniture if you have room. Carve designs into the exterior of the walls to customize your construction.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Invest in some waterproof gloves. They are available in sporting goods stores and will keep your hands warm and dry during construction. If you can't find any, have a few pairs of woolly gloves: when your hands get wet you can switch to a new pair while the soggy ones dry on a heater.\\n\", \"Find friends and family to help you build your fort.\\n\", \"Don't get angry over a broken fort. You can always build a new one!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't make the top of the fort too heavy. You don't want it to cave in.\\n\", \"Try to select a position out of direct sunlight. This will help the fort last longer and reduce the risk of cave-ins.\\n\", \"Do not stand on your fort, as it may break.\\n\", \"Do not let animals into your fort that can destroy it.\\n\", \"ALWAYS have somebody outside a snow fort, both when you're building and when you're spending time in the fort. NEVER enter it alone. Collapses happen, and you can suffocate if no one is around to help you out.[10]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Avoid building your fort near a parking lot. Carbon monoxide fumes might accumulate in the fort, which could lead to poisoning and death.[11]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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7,555 |
How to Build a Social Life at 30
|
1. Stay in touch with your old friends.
It’s easy to drift apart in your 30s.
As you get older, people tend to move away, settle into busy careers, and grow their families. All these things can make it harder to spend time together like you used to. But if you’re missing your old friends, there’s a good chance they’re missing you, too. Don’t be afraid to reach out and get caught up, even if you haven’t talked in a long time!
Even if a friend lives far away, you can still give them a call, shoot them an email, or chat over text.
Reaching out to an old friend can feel awkward. The best approach is to just be honest about why you’re contacting them. For example, say something like, “Hey, I’ve been thinking about you a lot lately and was just wondering how you’re doing. I’d love to start keeping in touch again!”
2. Reach out to friends of friends.
Is there anyone in your circle you’d love to get to know better?
Maybe it’s a friend of your partner, your college BFF’s cool roommate, or a friend of a work buddy that you met at a party. If you’ve ever felt a connection with someone in your larger social circle, don’t hesitate to get in touch with them. It could blossom into a new friendship!
If you’re not sure how to approach the other person, try striking up a conversation online or in person the next time you see them. When you do, casually invite them to hang out.
For instance, say something like, “I actually have the day off tomorrow afternoon, if you’d be interested in grabbing a coffee and catching up!”
If you don’t have any close friends or a romantic partner, there are still other ways to expand your social circle. For example, try approaching acquaintances, coworkers, or family friends.
3. Talk to strangers.
You never know if a chance encounter could lead to friendship.
Plus, having friendly interactions with strangers is good for your wellbeing! Next time you’re out somewhere, make it a point to strike up a conversation with someone. This could be as simple as asking your barista how their day is going, or complimenting a stranger on the bus about their cool hat.
When you’re in public, make a point of putting your phone away. It’ll make you more approachable, and you’ll have an easier time engaging with people around you!
4. Join a social group.
Look for groups in your area that match your interests.
This is a great way to meet people who have something in common with you! If you’re not sure how to find a group, try searching on websites like Meetup.com or Eventbrite.com.
For instance, you might join a group that centers around a hobby you enjoy (like painting or hiking) or a lifestyle you identify with (e.g., 30-something singles, dog owners, or working parents).
Once you find a group, try to go at least 3 times. Going repeatedly can help you form deeper and more lasting connections with other people.
5. Socialize online.
You can form real friendships in the virtual world.
Sometimes, they eventually translate into face-to-face friendships! Once you’ve found some online communities that you enjoy, reach out to other members of the group that you seem to vibe with. Try leaving a comment, asking a question, or shooting them a DM to say “hi.”
For example, if you’ve joined a subreddit for writers, you might send a message to someone who wrote a story you love.
Asking questions is a good way to get a conversation going. For instance, try saying something like, “I love all the historical detail you worked into this post. How long did it take you to research all that?”
6. Adopt a pet.
Animal companions can help you meet new human friends.
Studies show that adopting a pet is a great way to meet—and bond with—new people. And of course, a pet is also great company! While going to the dog park is the most obvious way to meet new people through your pet, you can still strike up a conversation with coworkers, neighbors, or strangers about other kinds of animal friends.
Try joining an online or in-person group for people with the same kind of pet you have. For instance, you might get involved with your local bearded dragon owners’ group or labradoodle playdates club.
7. Get together with other parents if you have kids.
Making friends as a parent can be especially tricky.
But getting together with other parents is a great way to expand your social network—and meet other people who understand your busy lifestyle. Look for ways to connect with new friends through your child. For instance, you might:
Volunteer for school events and chat with other parents or teachers there
Invite your child’s friends—and their parents—over for play dates
Talk to fellow parents at the local park or playground
Join a group for parents in your area or online
8. Say “yes” to invitations.
Always be open to making new connections.
How many times have you ignored an office wide invite to an after-work get together? What about a call for volunteers at your kid’s next school party? Whatever it is, look at it as an opportunity. If possible, make time to go to the next event you’re invited to, even if it doesn’t seem like your cup of tea.
If you’re an introvert, going to social gatherings can be exhausting. Just take it slow and give yourself permission to leave early if you aren’t enjoying yourself. It might also help to go to the event with someone you already know, if possible.
9. Set specific socializing goals.
As you get older, it’s important to be intentional about socializing.
Your schedule’s probably busier and less flexible than it used to be. You’re also not constantly surrounded with opportunities to socialize, like you were in school. That means you’ll need to put in more of an effort to make things happen.
For example, you might set a goal of talking to a friend at least once a week, or to organize a get-together for your coworkers at least once a month.
Take a good look at your schedule and set aside specific times for socializing. For instance, you could devote every Saturday evening to playing board games with friends or attending a social club.
You may need to initiate social interactions more often as you get older. Don’t wait for people to invite you to hang out—take the first step and invite them to do something with you!
10. Plan your social time around activities.
A little structure makes it easier to have quality time.
Instead of just making vague plans to “hang out,” invite your friends—or potential friends—to do specific things you do. It doesn’t have to be anything elaborate. For example, you might plan to:
Have a game night
See a movie
Go for a walk or hit the gym together
Go shopping
Visit a new attraction, like a museum or park
11. Focus on quality of friendships over quantity.
Having just a few good friends is better for your wellbeing.
When you were in your teens and 20s, you might have found it easier to make lots of friends. As you age, this gets a lot harder. But studies show that the friendships you do make will tend to be deeper and more satisfying. Try not to worry about not having as many friends—instead, do your best to nurture and enjoy the friendships you have.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:06",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Stay in touch with your old friends.\\nIt’s easy to drift apart in your 30s.\\nAs you get older, people tend to move away, settle into busy careers, and grow their families. All these things can make it harder to spend time together like you used to. But if you’re missing your old friends, there’s a good chance they’re missing you, too. Don’t be afraid to reach out and get caught up, even if you haven’t talked in a long time!\\nEven if a friend lives far away, you can still give them a call, shoot them an email, or chat over text.\\nReaching out to an old friend can feel awkward. The best approach is to just be honest about why you’re contacting them. For example, say something like, “Hey, I’ve been thinking about you a lot lately and was just wondering how you’re doing. I’d love to start keeping in touch again!”\\n2. Reach out to friends of friends.\\nIs there anyone in your circle you’d love to get to know better?\\nMaybe it’s a friend of your partner, your college BFF’s cool roommate, or a friend of a work buddy that you met at a party. If you’ve ever felt a connection with someone in your larger social circle, don’t hesitate to get in touch with them. It could blossom into a new friendship!\\nIf you’re not sure how to approach the other person, try striking up a conversation online or in person the next time you see them. When you do, casually invite them to hang out.\\nFor instance, say something like, “I actually have the day off tomorrow afternoon, if you’d be interested in grabbing a coffee and catching up!”\\nIf you don’t have any close friends or a romantic partner, there are still other ways to expand your social circle. For example, try approaching acquaintances, coworkers, or family friends.\\n3. Talk to strangers.\\nYou never know if a chance encounter could lead to friendship.\\nPlus, having friendly interactions with strangers is good for your wellbeing! Next time you’re out somewhere, make it a point to strike up a conversation with someone. This could be as simple as asking your barista how their day is going, or complimenting a stranger on the bus about their cool hat.\\nWhen you’re in public, make a point of putting your phone away. It’ll make you more approachable, and you’ll have an easier time engaging with people around you!\\n4. Join a social group.\\nLook for groups in your area that match your interests.\\nThis is a great way to meet people who have something in common with you! If you’re not sure how to find a group, try searching on websites like Meetup.com or Eventbrite.com.\\nFor instance, you might join a group that centers around a hobby you enjoy (like painting or hiking) or a lifestyle you identify with (e.g., 30-something singles, dog owners, or working parents).\\nOnce you find a group, try to go at least 3 times. Going repeatedly can help you form deeper and more lasting connections with other people.\\n5. Socialize online.\\nYou can form real friendships in the virtual world.\\nSometimes, they eventually translate into face-to-face friendships! Once you’ve found some online communities that you enjoy, reach out to other members of the group that you seem to vibe with. Try leaving a comment, asking a question, or shooting them a DM to say “hi.”\\nFor example, if you’ve joined a subreddit for writers, you might send a message to someone who wrote a story you love.\\nAsking questions is a good way to get a conversation going. For instance, try saying something like, “I love all the historical detail you worked into this post. How long did it take you to research all that?”\\n6. Adopt a pet.\\nAnimal companions can help you meet new human friends.\\nStudies show that adopting a pet is a great way to meet—and bond with—new people. And of course, a pet is also great company! While going to the dog park is the most obvious way to meet new people through your pet, you can still strike up a conversation with coworkers, neighbors, or strangers about other kinds of animal friends.\\nTry joining an online or in-person group for people with the same kind of pet you have. For instance, you might get involved with your local bearded dragon owners’ group or labradoodle playdates club.\\n7. Get together with other parents if you have kids.\\nMaking friends as a parent can be especially tricky.\\nBut getting together with other parents is a great way to expand your social network—and meet other people who understand your busy lifestyle. Look for ways to connect with new friends through your child. For instance, you might:\\nVolunteer for school events and chat with other parents or teachers there\\nInvite your child’s friends—and their parents—over for play dates\\nTalk to fellow parents at the local park or playground\\nJoin a group for parents in your area or online\\n8. Say “yes” to invitations.\\nAlways be open to making new connections.\\nHow many times have you ignored an office wide invite to an after-work get together? What about a call for volunteers at your kid’s next school party? Whatever it is, look at it as an opportunity. If possible, make time to go to the next event you’re invited to, even if it doesn’t seem like your cup of tea.\\nIf you’re an introvert, going to social gatherings can be exhausting. Just take it slow and give yourself permission to leave early if you aren’t enjoying yourself. It might also help to go to the event with someone you already know, if possible.\\n9. Set specific socializing goals.\\nAs you get older, it’s important to be intentional about socializing.\\nYour schedule’s probably busier and less flexible than it used to be. You’re also not constantly surrounded with opportunities to socialize, like you were in school. That means you’ll need to put in more of an effort to make things happen.\\nFor example, you might set a goal of talking to a friend at least once a week, or to organize a get-together for your coworkers at least once a month.\\nTake a good look at your schedule and set aside specific times for socializing. For instance, you could devote every Saturday evening to playing board games with friends or attending a social club.\\nYou may need to initiate social interactions more often as you get older. Don’t wait for people to invite you to hang out—take the first step and invite them to do something with you!\\n10. Plan your social time around activities.\\nA little structure makes it easier to have quality time.\\nInstead of just making vague plans to “hang out,” invite your friends—or potential friends—to do specific things you do. It doesn’t have to be anything elaborate. For example, you might plan to:\\nHave a game night\\nSee a movie\\nGo for a walk or hit the gym together\\nGo shopping\\nVisit a new attraction, like a museum or park\\n11. Focus on quality of friendships over quantity.\\nHaving just a few good friends is better for your wellbeing.\\nWhen you were in your teens and 20s, you might have found it easier to make lots of friends. As you age, this gets a lot harder. But studies show that the friendships you do make will tend to be deeper and more satisfying. Try not to worry about not having as many friends—instead, do your best to nurture and enjoy the friendships you have.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you’ve recently entered your 30s, you might notice that your social life just isn’t what it used to be. Or maybe you never made a lot of friends in your teens and 20s, and now you’re worried that it might be too late. Either way, you’re not alone. Although building a social life gets a little trickier as you get older, it’s totally doable—and you might find that the friendships you make in your 30s are ultimately more satisfying and long-lasting.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Stay in touch with your old friends.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It’s easy to drift apart in your 30s.\", \"描述\": \"As you get older, people tend to move away, settle into busy careers, and grow their families. All these things can make it harder to spend time together like you used to. But if you’re missing your old friends, there’s a good chance they’re missing you, too. Don’t be afraid to reach out and get caught up, even if you haven’t talked in a long time!\\nEven if a friend lives far away, you can still give them a call, shoot them an email, or chat over text.\\nReaching out to an old friend can feel awkward. The best approach is to just be honest about why you’re contacting them. For example, say something like, “Hey, I’ve been thinking about you a lot lately and was just wondering how you’re doing. I’d love to start keeping in touch again!”\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Reach out to friends of friends.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Is there anyone in your circle you’d love to get to know better?\", \"描述\": \"Maybe it’s a friend of your partner, your college BFF’s cool roommate, or a friend of a work buddy that you met at a party. If you’ve ever felt a connection with someone in your larger social circle, don’t hesitate to get in touch with them. It could blossom into a new friendship!\\nIf you’re not sure how to approach the other person, try striking up a conversation online or in person the next time you see them. When you do, casually invite them to hang out.\\nFor instance, say something like, “I actually have the day off tomorrow afternoon, if you’d be interested in grabbing a coffee and catching up!”\\nIf you don’t have any close friends or a romantic partner, there are still other ways to expand your social circle. For example, try approaching acquaintances, coworkers, or family friends.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Talk to strangers.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You never know if a chance encounter could lead to friendship.\", \"描述\": \"Plus, having friendly interactions with strangers is good for your wellbeing! Next time you’re out somewhere, make it a point to strike up a conversation with someone. This could be as simple as asking your barista how their day is going, or complimenting a stranger on the bus about their cool hat.\\nWhen you’re in public, make a point of putting your phone away. It’ll make you more approachable, and you’ll have an easier time engaging with people around you!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Join a social group.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look for groups in your area that match your interests.\", \"描述\": \"This is a great way to meet people who have something in common with you! If you’re not sure how to find a group, try searching on websites like Meetup.com or Eventbrite.com.\\nFor instance, you might join a group that centers around a hobby you enjoy (like painting or hiking) or a lifestyle you identify with (e.g., 30-something singles, dog owners, or working parents).\\nOnce you find a group, try to go at least 3 times. Going repeatedly can help you form deeper and more lasting connections with other people.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Socialize online.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You can form real friendships in the virtual world.\", \"描述\": \"Sometimes, they eventually translate into face-to-face friendships! Once you’ve found some online communities that you enjoy, reach out to other members of the group that you seem to vibe with. Try leaving a comment, asking a question, or shooting them a DM to say “hi.”\\nFor example, if you’ve joined a subreddit for writers, you might send a message to someone who wrote a story you love.\\nAsking questions is a good way to get a conversation going. For instance, try saying something like, “I love all the historical detail you worked into this post. How long did it take you to research all that?”\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Adopt a pet.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Animal companions can help you meet new human friends.\", \"描述\": \"Studies show that adopting a pet is a great way to meet—and bond with—new people. And of course, a pet is also great company! While going to the dog park is the most obvious way to meet new people through your pet, you can still strike up a conversation with coworkers, neighbors, or strangers about other kinds of animal friends.\\nTry joining an online or in-person group for people with the same kind of pet you have. For instance, you might get involved with your local bearded dragon owners’ group or labradoodle playdates club.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Get together with other parents if you have kids.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making friends as a parent can be especially tricky.\", \"描述\": \"But getting together with other parents is a great way to expand your social network—and meet other people who understand your busy lifestyle. Look for ways to connect with new friends through your child. For instance, you might:\\nVolunteer for school events and chat with other parents or teachers there\\nInvite your child’s friends—and their parents—over for play dates\\nTalk to fellow parents at the local park or playground\\nJoin a group for parents in your area or online\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Say “yes” to invitations.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Always be open to making new connections.\", \"描述\": \"How many times have you ignored an office wide invite to an after-work get together? What about a call for volunteers at your kid’s next school party? Whatever it is, look at it as an opportunity. If possible, make time to go to the next event you’re invited to, even if it doesn’t seem like your cup of tea.\\nIf you’re an introvert, going to social gatherings can be exhausting. Just take it slow and give yourself permission to leave early if you aren’t enjoying yourself. It might also help to go to the event with someone you already know, if possible.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Set specific socializing goals.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"As you get older, it’s important to be intentional about socializing.\", \"描述\": \"Your schedule’s probably busier and less flexible than it used to be. You’re also not constantly surrounded with opportunities to socialize, like you were in school. That means you’ll need to put in more of an effort to make things happen.\\nFor example, you might set a goal of talking to a friend at least once a week, or to organize a get-together for your coworkers at least once a month.\\nTake a good look at your schedule and set aside specific times for socializing. For instance, you could devote every Saturday evening to playing board games with friends or attending a social club.\\nYou may need to initiate social interactions more often as you get older. Don’t wait for people to invite you to hang out—take the first step and invite them to do something with you!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Plan your social time around activities.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"A little structure makes it easier to have quality time.\", \"描述\": \"Instead of just making vague plans to “hang out,” invite your friends—or potential friends—to do specific things you do. It doesn’t have to be anything elaborate. For example, you might plan to:\\nHave a game night\\nSee a movie\\nGo for a walk or hit the gym together\\nGo shopping\\nVisit a new attraction, like a museum or park\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Focus on quality of friendships over quantity.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Having just a few good friends is better for your wellbeing.\", \"描述\": \"When you were in your teens and 20s, you might have found it easier to make lots of friends. As you age, this gets a lot harder. But studies show that the friendships you do make will tend to be deeper and more satisfying. Try not to worry about not having as many friends—instead, do your best to nurture and enjoy the friendships you have.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,556 |
How to Build a Social Network
|
1. Networking Online and with Apps
1-1. Make profiles on popular platforms.
Get established on popular sites such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Snapchat, Pinterest, Tumblr, Reddit, YouTube, and Flickr. Be careful what you put on any public profiles, as anyone can look you up. You will find the broadest audience there.
Ask people you know what social media they use.
For professional social networking, try LinkedIn.
Once you have a nice picture and a cute or accurate name on your platform of choice, add friends freely.
1-2. Download messaging apps to communicate with friends.
To network with the people you have in your life already, check out communication apps that will let you send what are basically cooler text messages. Check out messaging apps that are popular in Asia, like WeChat or WhatsApp.
Consider using separate phone numbers for different networks. For example, a personal cell phone and a work cell phone.
If you're interested in privacy, download an encrypted app like Signal.
1-3. Find your niche online.
Search the platforms you have joined for causes you care about and other interests of yours. For instance, you can join groups on Facebook, follow organizations on Twitter. Post in these groups, reply to other members, and add other members with whom you get along.
For instance, if you're in a Facebook group for Panda Habitat Conservation, and you always feel inspired by the jokes some man named Heinrich from Idaho posts, you can like his post, reply with a joke of your own, and then add him as a friend.
Find message boards or online communities that focus on one of your interests. Post on the topic and share your knowledge. If someone on the message board has similar interests or can teach you something, then send them an email or a private message and get to know them.
1-4. Add people freely.
Request connections with everyone you know and like in real life. If the network is a personal one, add only your close friends you would want hearing your unguarded thoughts. If the network is a business one, add the people you interact with, whether virtually or in person, so you can grow your reach.
1-5. Represent yourself.
Be active on the sites you choose! Once a day or so, share a comment, photo, or article that interests you and that you think may interest others. If you only use your site to follow others, people will forget you are there.
1-6. Interact with your contacts.
The best way to strengthen your network is to interact with the people you are connected with. Take a few minutes a day to check the site and express enjoyment of various posts. Different platforms will let you do this different ways—you might comment or press "like" "heart" or "favorite." Only do this when you actually like something! Otherwise your feed will slowly fill with things that do not interest you.
Strive to be genuine in your interactions so you can find true common ground with others.
On many platforms, you may post things and tag the people you think may be interested. Only do this on occasion, and try not to tag more than a few people—otherwise it won't feel personal.
1-7. Reconnect with former contacts.
Go through your address book, day planner, or other contact information for your current friends and contacts. Make connection with them just to talk. The subject of your conversation isn't really important at this point. Just staying in touch works wonders and will serve as the foundation for the next steps.
2. Building Community
2-1. Throw a party.
From a birthday party to a friendly get together, parties are a great way to gather your friends and expand your network. Ask all of your close friends to come and encourage them to bring guests. Speak with everyone at the party and get phone numbers and contact information from those you do not know and that you share common interests with.
2-2. Say yes to invitations.
Attend weddings, funerals and parties that you are invited to. Showing that you care about the people in your network, even if you just pop in and say hi, will cause those that are in your 'network' to return the same courtesy. And, you could meet other people there too.
If you have to say no to an invitation, send an event-appropriate gift or card.
2-3. Get active.
Consider volunteering and joining a cause that you believe in. You might agitate for a change in election procedures, march against corruption, fundraise for the homeless in your neighborhood, or join an anti-deportation league.
You will meet people who share your interests and do some good at the same time.
Being active also shows that you care about something greater than yourself, which may help you meet new people.
2-4. Find in-person activities online.
Meet new people by joining groups of strangers that gather for socializing. Sites like Meetup.com offer local volunteer-led hiking groups, poker parties, and other fun things. Since everyone is participating in the initial difficulty of meeting with strangers, the awkwardness is diminished.
2-5. Attend summits, festivals, conferences, expositions, and fairs.
Go to large meetups that involve the topics you are interested in. Whether they are about technology, skiing or scrapbooking, you will meet new people that share similar interests. Introduce yourself to people in line, ask questions at panels, and add other attendees on social media.
Try going to the same gatherings every year. That way, you'll make friends with other regulars.
Create business cards that you can hand out to new contacts to stay in touch.
2-6. Give back by hosting.
If you want to participate in a community, you have to give back! That means hosting parties and connecting people, promoting the interests of others within your network, and otherwise being a mensch to those around you.
Consider starting your own activist, social, or artistic group. This can be a bit of a daunting task, but if you start your own group, whether an internet bulletin board group or an actual meet and greet group, people will be coming to you instead of you looking for them. This is a great way to meet new contacts and friends.
2-7. Work your network.
Once you have established yourself in a community, and are known to give back to it, ask for favors. Should you be seeking a job, don't hesitate to tell everyone in your network about it. Send out resumes to those you are closest to or those that share business interest.
Tips
Do not be afraid to leave your comfort zone. If you are at a party, don't just stand in the corner. Just make small talk with people.[6]
X
Expert Source
Annie Lin, MBALife & Career Coach
Expert Interview. 25 November 2019.
Soon, you will be in a conversation that may lead to a closer relationship.
Always carry business cards. They have your contact information on them and are an easy way to give your information to people you would like to hear from again.
Never 'snub' anyone that is introduced to you. You may not like the way that they dress, act, or even look, but one of the people in your social network cares about them, so be very courteous when meeting a new contact. You don't have to stay in touch with them, but you can be polite! You could be meeting someone who will become one of your best friends.
Warnings
Get to know and trust people before giving out too much personal information. Although most relationships will be perfectly safe, it is possible to give too much information to someone who may ultimately cause you harm.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:06",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Networking Online and with Apps\\n1-1. Make profiles on popular platforms.\\nGet established on popular sites such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Snapchat, Pinterest, Tumblr, Reddit, YouTube, and Flickr. Be careful what you put on any public profiles, as anyone can look you up. You will find the broadest audience there.\\nAsk people you know what social media they use.\\nFor professional social networking, try LinkedIn.\\nOnce you have a nice picture and a cute or accurate name on your platform of choice, add friends freely.\\n1-2. Download messaging apps to communicate with friends.\\nTo network with the people you have in your life already, check out communication apps that will let you send what are basically cooler text messages. Check out messaging apps that are popular in Asia, like WeChat or WhatsApp.\\nConsider using separate phone numbers for different networks. For example, a personal cell phone and a work cell phone.\\nIf you're interested in privacy, download an encrypted app like Signal.\\n1-3. Find your niche online.\\nSearch the platforms you have joined for causes you care about and other interests of yours. For instance, you can join groups on Facebook, follow organizations on Twitter. Post in these groups, reply to other members, and add other members with whom you get along.\\nFor instance, if you're in a Facebook group for Panda Habitat Conservation, and you always feel inspired by the jokes some man named Heinrich from Idaho posts, you can like his post, reply with a joke of your own, and then add him as a friend.\\nFind message boards or online communities that focus on one of your interests. Post on the topic and share your knowledge. If someone on the message board has similar interests or can teach you something, then send them an email or a private message and get to know them.\\n1-4. Add people freely.\\nRequest connections with everyone you know and like in real life. If the network is a personal one, add only your close friends you would want hearing your unguarded thoughts. If the network is a business one, add the people you interact with, whether virtually or in person, so you can grow your reach.\\n1-5. Represent yourself.\\nBe active on the sites you choose! Once a day or so, share a comment, photo, or article that interests you and that you think may interest others. If you only use your site to follow others, people will forget you are there.\\n1-6. Interact with your contacts.\\nThe best way to strengthen your network is to interact with the people you are connected with. Take a few minutes a day to check the site and express enjoyment of various posts. Different platforms will let you do this different ways—you might comment or press \\\"like\\\" \\\"heart\\\" or \\\"favorite.\\\" Only do this when you actually like something! Otherwise your feed will slowly fill with things that do not interest you.\\nStrive to be genuine in your interactions so you can find true common ground with others.\\nOn many platforms, you may post things and tag the people you think may be interested. Only do this on occasion, and try not to tag more than a few people—otherwise it won't feel personal.\\n1-7. Reconnect with former contacts.\\nGo through your address book, day planner, or other contact information for your current friends and contacts. Make connection with them just to talk. The subject of your conversation isn't really important at this point. Just staying in touch works wonders and will serve as the foundation for the next steps.\\n2. Building Community\\n2-1. Throw a party.\\nFrom a birthday party to a friendly get together, parties are a great way to gather your friends and expand your network. Ask all of your close friends to come and encourage them to bring guests. Speak with everyone at the party and get phone numbers and contact information from those you do not know and that you share common interests with.\\n2-2. Say yes to invitations.\\nAttend weddings, funerals and parties that you are invited to. Showing that you care about the people in your network, even if you just pop in and say hi, will cause those that are in your 'network' to return the same courtesy. And, you could meet other people there too.\\nIf you have to say no to an invitation, send an event-appropriate gift or card.\\n2-3. Get active.\\nConsider volunteering and joining a cause that you believe in. You might agitate for a change in election procedures, march against corruption, fundraise for the homeless in your neighborhood, or join an anti-deportation league.\\nYou will meet people who share your interests and do some good at the same time.\\nBeing active also shows that you care about something greater than yourself, which may help you meet new people.\\n2-4. Find in-person activities online.\\nMeet new people by joining groups of strangers that gather for socializing. Sites like Meetup.com offer local volunteer-led hiking groups, poker parties, and other fun things. Since everyone is participating in the initial difficulty of meeting with strangers, the awkwardness is diminished.\\n2-5. Attend summits, festivals, conferences, expositions, and fairs.\\nGo to large meetups that involve the topics you are interested in. Whether they are about technology, skiing or scrapbooking, you will meet new people that share similar interests. Introduce yourself to people in line, ask questions at panels, and add other attendees on social media.\\nTry going to the same gatherings every year. That way, you'll make friends with other regulars.\\nCreate business cards that you can hand out to new contacts to stay in touch.\\n2-6. Give back by hosting.\\nIf you want to participate in a community, you have to give back! That means hosting parties and connecting people, promoting the interests of others within your network, and otherwise being a mensch to those around you.\\nConsider starting your own activist, social, or artistic group. This can be a bit of a daunting task, but if you start your own group, whether an internet bulletin board group or an actual meet and greet group, people will be coming to you instead of you looking for them. This is a great way to meet new contacts and friends.\\n2-7. Work your network.\\nOnce you have established yourself in a community, and are known to give back to it, ask for favors. Should you be seeking a job, don't hesitate to tell everyone in your network about it. Send out resumes to those you are closest to or those that share business interest.\\nTips\\nDo not be afraid to leave your comfort zone. If you are at a party, don't just stand in the corner. Just make small talk with people.[6]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nAnnie Lin, MBALife & Career Coach\\nExpert Interview. 25 November 2019.\\n\\n Soon, you will be in a conversation that may lead to a closer relationship.\\nAlways carry business cards. They have your contact information on them and are an easy way to give your information to people you would like to hear from again.\\nNever 'snub' anyone that is introduced to you. You may not like the way that they dress, act, or even look, but one of the people in your social network cares about them, so be very courteous when meeting a new contact. You don't have to stay in touch with them, but you can be polite! You could be meeting someone who will become one of your best friends.\\nWarnings\\nGet to know and trust people before giving out too much personal information. Although most relationships will be perfectly safe, it is possible to give too much information to someone who may ultimately cause you harm.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A social network comprises a group of friends and acquaintances that share similar interests, careers or both. Building a social network online can also mean gaining an audience that will in turn benefit your career or your political clout. Building an effective social network will mean that you will always have contacts to help you with your personal or career endeavors. In fact, it can help to have separate networks for both. Expand your social network through person-to-person interactions, and keep in touch via social media.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Networking Online and with Apps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make profiles on popular platforms.\", \"描述\": \"Get established on popular sites such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Snapchat, Pinterest, Tumblr, Reddit, YouTube, and Flickr. Be careful what you put on any public profiles, as anyone can look you up. You will find the broadest audience there.\\nAsk people you know what social media they use.\\nFor professional social networking, try LinkedIn.\\nOnce you have a nice picture and a cute or accurate name on your platform of choice, add friends freely.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Download messaging apps to communicate with friends.\", \"描述\": \"To network with the people you have in your life already, check out communication apps that will let you send what are basically cooler text messages. Check out messaging apps that are popular in Asia, like WeChat or WhatsApp.\\nConsider using separate phone numbers for different networks. For example, a personal cell phone and a work cell phone.\\nIf you're interested in privacy, download an encrypted app like Signal.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find your niche online.\", \"描述\": \"Search the platforms you have joined for causes you care about and other interests of yours. For instance, you can join groups on Facebook, follow organizations on Twitter. Post in these groups, reply to other members, and add other members with whom you get along.\\nFor instance, if you're in a Facebook group for Panda Habitat Conservation, and you always feel inspired by the jokes some man named Heinrich from Idaho posts, you can like his post, reply with a joke of your own, and then add him as a friend.\\nFind message boards or online communities that focus on one of your interests. Post on the topic and share your knowledge. If someone on the message board has similar interests or can teach you something, then send them an email or a private message and get to know them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add people freely.\", \"描述\": \"Request connections with everyone you know and like in real life. If the network is a personal one, add only your close friends you would want hearing your unguarded thoughts. If the network is a business one, add the people you interact with, whether virtually or in person, so you can grow your reach.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Represent yourself.\", \"描述\": \"Be active on the sites you choose! Once a day or so, share a comment, photo, or article that interests you and that you think may interest others. If you only use your site to follow others, people will forget you are there.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Interact with your contacts.\", \"描述\": \"The best way to strengthen your network is to interact with the people you are connected with. Take a few minutes a day to check the site and express enjoyment of various posts. Different platforms will let you do this different ways—you might comment or press \\\"like\\\" \\\"heart\\\" or \\\"favorite.\\\" Only do this when you actually like something! Otherwise your feed will slowly fill with things that do not interest you.\\nStrive to be genuine in your interactions so you can find true common ground with others.\\nOn many platforms, you may post things and tag the people you think may be interested. Only do this on occasion, and try not to tag more than a few people—otherwise it won't feel personal.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Reconnect with former contacts.\", \"描述\": \"Go through your address book, day planner, or other contact information for your current friends and contacts. Make connection with them just to talk. The subject of your conversation isn't really important at this point. Just staying in touch works wonders and will serve as the foundation for the next steps.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building Community\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Throw a party.\", \"描述\": \"From a birthday party to a friendly get together, parties are a great way to gather your friends and expand your network. Ask all of your close friends to come and encourage them to bring guests. Speak with everyone at the party and get phone numbers and contact information from those you do not know and that you share common interests with.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Say yes to invitations.\", \"描述\": \"Attend weddings, funerals and parties that you are invited to. Showing that you care about the people in your network, even if you just pop in and say hi, will cause those that are in your 'network' to return the same courtesy. And, you could meet other people there too.\\nIf you have to say no to an invitation, send an event-appropriate gift or card.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get active.\", \"描述\": \"Consider volunteering and joining a cause that you believe in. You might agitate for a change in election procedures, march against corruption, fundraise for the homeless in your neighborhood, or join an anti-deportation league.\\nYou will meet people who share your interests and do some good at the same time.\\nBeing active also shows that you care about something greater than yourself, which may help you meet new people.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Find in-person activities online.\", \"描述\": \"Meet new people by joining groups of strangers that gather for socializing. Sites like Meetup.com offer local volunteer-led hiking groups, poker parties, and other fun things. Since everyone is participating in the initial difficulty of meeting with strangers, the awkwardness is diminished.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attend summits, festivals, conferences, expositions, and fairs.\", \"描述\": \"Go to large meetups that involve the topics you are interested in. Whether they are about technology, skiing or scrapbooking, you will meet new people that share similar interests. Introduce yourself to people in line, ask questions at panels, and add other attendees on social media.\\nTry going to the same gatherings every year. That way, you'll make friends with other regulars.\\nCreate business cards that you can hand out to new contacts to stay in touch.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Give back by hosting.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to participate in a community, you have to give back! That means hosting parties and connecting people, promoting the interests of others within your network, and otherwise being a mensch to those around you.\\nConsider starting your own activist, social, or artistic group. This can be a bit of a daunting task, but if you start your own group, whether an internet bulletin board group or an actual meet and greet group, people will be coming to you instead of you looking for them. This is a great way to meet new contacts and friends.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Work your network.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have established yourself in a community, and are known to give back to it, ask for favors. Should you be seeking a job, don't hesitate to tell everyone in your network about it. Send out resumes to those you are closest to or those that share business interest.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Do not be afraid to leave your comfort zone. If you are at a party, don't just stand in the corner. Just make small talk with people.[6]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nAnnie Lin, MBALife & Career Coach\\nExpert Interview. 25 November 2019.\\n\\n Soon, you will be in a conversation that may lead to a closer relationship.\\n\", \"Always carry business cards. They have your contact information on them and are an easy way to give your information to people you would like to hear from again.\\n\", \"Never 'snub' anyone that is introduced to you. You may not like the way that they dress, act, or even look, but one of the people in your social network cares about them, so be very courteous when meeting a new contact. You don't have to stay in touch with them, but you can be polite! You could be meeting someone who will become one of your best friends.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Get to know and trust people before giving out too much personal information. Although most relationships will be perfectly safe, it is possible to give too much information to someone who may ultimately cause you harm.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,557 |
How to Build a Sod House
|
1. Steps
1-1. Build sod houses in September, when the roots of the grass are deepest.
The roots hold the sod bricks together during construction.
1-2. Find a location that's fairly level in an area that's covered with thick prairie grass, such as buffalo grass.
Mark the area where you will build the house so you will know where to place the exterior walls. Leave a space for the door.
1-3. Dig up the sod inside the marked area, rake the dirt until it's smooth and level and tamp it down as much as you can.
This creates the floor of the house.
1-4. Mow the grass to a height of 4 inches.
1-5. Slice the sod into 2-foot (61 cm) strips.
Cut down to a depth of 4 inches.
1-6. Cut the strips across at 1-foot (30 cm) intervals.
This creates uniform bricks of sod which you can then remove and stack near where you will build the house.
1-7. Lay 1 row of bricks on the ground, grass-side down.
Follow the markers for the exterior walls.
1-8. Lay the second row of sod bricks on top the first.
Place the center of the second-row bricks directly over where two first-row bricks meet. You must cut some bricks in half to fit the corners.
1-9. Add subsequent rows of bricks over the first rows.
Stagger the bricks so the ends of the bricks on the row below are directly under the centers of the bricks on top. Every few rows, lay the bricks crosswise to the row underneath to help make the walls more sturdy.
1-10. Lay sod brick until your walls reach the bottom of where you want your windows.
Place the frames for the windows on the walls and the door frame in the space you left for the door.
1-11. Continue building the walls around the window and door frames.
Leave room between the bricks and the frames and stuff the spaces with grass. If you pack too closely, the sod may settle and cause the frames to shift or the window glass to break.
1-12. Construct a roof for your sod house.
Several styles of roof were used on sod houses, ranging from flat roofs made from a lattice of tree branches, to traditional gabled roofs made from lumber, tar paper and shingles. A quality roof can protect a sod house for many years with little need for maintenance.
1-13. Cover the roof with sod.
Place the grass-side up to protect against erosion.
1-14. Install the doors and windows.
1-15. Suspend a muslin sheet to the roof inside the house to form a sort of ceiling that will catch any dirt or water that falls from the roof.
1-16. Fill any spaces remaining in the walls with additional sod or grass.
1-17. Smooth the inside of the walls and whitewash them.
You may also choose to cover the outside of the walls with stucco to protect them from the weather.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:07",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Build sod houses in September, when the roots of the grass are deepest.\\nThe roots hold the sod bricks together during construction.\\n1-2. Find a location that's fairly level in an area that's covered with thick prairie grass, such as buffalo grass.\\nMark the area where you will build the house so you will know where to place the exterior walls. Leave a space for the door.\\n1-3. Dig up the sod inside the marked area, rake the dirt until it's smooth and level and tamp it down as much as you can.\\nThis creates the floor of the house.\\n1-4. Mow the grass to a height of 4 inches.\\n\\n1-5. Slice the sod into 2-foot (61 cm) strips.\\nCut down to a depth of 4 inches.\\n1-6. Cut the strips across at 1-foot (30 cm) intervals.\\nThis creates uniform bricks of sod which you can then remove and stack near where you will build the house.\\n1-7. Lay 1 row of bricks on the ground, grass-side down.\\nFollow the markers for the exterior walls.\\n1-8. Lay the second row of sod bricks on top the first.\\nPlace the center of the second-row bricks directly over where two first-row bricks meet. You must cut some bricks in half to fit the corners.\\n1-9. Add subsequent rows of bricks over the first rows.\\nStagger the bricks so the ends of the bricks on the row below are directly under the centers of the bricks on top. Every few rows, lay the bricks crosswise to the row underneath to help make the walls more sturdy.\\n1-10. Lay sod brick until your walls reach the bottom of where you want your windows.\\nPlace the frames for the windows on the walls and the door frame in the space you left for the door.\\n1-11. Continue building the walls around the window and door frames.\\nLeave room between the bricks and the frames and stuff the spaces with grass. If you pack too closely, the sod may settle and cause the frames to shift or the window glass to break.\\n1-12. Construct a roof for your sod house.\\nSeveral styles of roof were used on sod houses, ranging from flat roofs made from a lattice of tree branches, to traditional gabled roofs made from lumber, tar paper and shingles. A quality roof can protect a sod house for many years with little need for maintenance.\\n1-13. Cover the roof with sod.\\nPlace the grass-side up to protect against erosion.\\n1-14. Install the doors and windows.\\n\\n1-15. Suspend a muslin sheet to the roof inside the house to form a sort of ceiling that will catch any dirt or water that falls from the roof.\\n\\n1-16. Fill any spaces remaining in the walls with additional sod or grass.\\n\\n1-17. Smooth the inside of the walls and whitewash them.\\nYou may also choose to cover the outside of the walls with stucco to protect them from the weather.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Sod houses were built by prairie settlers in the United States and Canada. Wood was scarce on the prairie, but thickly-thatched sod was abundant. Sod houses were cheap to build, sturdy, warm in the winter and cool in the summer. However, they were subject to insects and mice infestations, and could be severely damaged by weather. Settlers cut and stacked bricks from prairie sod to build sod houses.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build sod houses in September, when the roots of the grass are deepest.\", \"描述\": \"The roots hold the sod bricks together during construction.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a location that's fairly level in an area that's covered with thick prairie grass, such as buffalo grass.\", \"描述\": \"Mark the area where you will build the house so you will know where to place the exterior walls. Leave a space for the door.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig up the sod inside the marked area, rake the dirt until it's smooth and level and tamp it down as much as you can.\", \"描述\": \"This creates the floor of the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mow the grass to a height of 4 inches.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Slice the sod into 2-foot (61 cm) strips.\", \"描述\": \"Cut down to a depth of 4 inches.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut the strips across at 1-foot (30 cm) intervals.\", \"描述\": \"This creates uniform bricks of sod which you can then remove and stack near where you will build the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Lay 1 row of bricks on the ground, grass-side down.\", \"描述\": \"Follow the markers for the exterior walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Lay the second row of sod bricks on top the first.\", \"描述\": \"Place the center of the second-row bricks directly over where two first-row bricks meet. You must cut some bricks in half to fit the corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Add subsequent rows of bricks over the first rows.\", \"描述\": \"Stagger the bricks so the ends of the bricks on the row below are directly under the centers of the bricks on top. Every few rows, lay the bricks crosswise to the row underneath to help make the walls more sturdy.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Lay sod brick until your walls reach the bottom of where you want your windows.\", \"描述\": \"Place the frames for the windows on the walls and the door frame in the space you left for the door.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Continue building the walls around the window and door frames.\", \"描述\": \"Leave room between the bricks and the frames and stuff the spaces with grass. If you pack too closely, the sod may settle and cause the frames to shift or the window glass to break.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Construct a roof for your sod house.\", \"描述\": \"Several styles of roof were used on sod houses, ranging from flat roofs made from a lattice of tree branches, to traditional gabled roofs made from lumber, tar paper and shingles. A quality roof can protect a sod house for many years with little need for maintenance.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Cover the roof with sod.\", \"描述\": \"Place the grass-side up to protect against erosion.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Install the doors and windows.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Suspend a muslin sheet to the roof inside the house to form a sort of ceiling that will catch any dirt or water that falls from the roof.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Fill any spaces remaining in the walls with additional sod or grass.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Smooth the inside of the walls and whitewash them.\", \"描述\": \"You may also choose to cover the outside of the walls with stucco to protect them from the weather.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,558 |
How to Build a Solar Panel
|
1. Assembling the Pieces
1-1. Purchase the cells.
There are a few different types of solar cells to buy, and most good options are either made in the United States, China, or Japan. However, the best cost-to-efficiency option is most likely polycrystalline cells. The number of cells you should buy depends on the amount of energy you’re looking to produce. The specs should be listed when you purchase the cells.
Make sure to buy extras. These cells are extremely fragile.
Cells can most easily be bought online through websites like Ebay, but you may be able to purchase some from your local hardware store.
It may be necessary to clean wax off of the cells, if the manufacturer ships them in wax. To do this, dip them in hot, but not boiling, water.
Each cell shouldn’t cost more than $1.30 per watt.
1-2. Measure and cut a backing board.
You will need a thin board made out of a non-conductive material, such as glass, plastic, or wood, to attach the cells to. Lay out the cells in the arrangement you will use, then measure the dimensions and cut a board to that size.
Leave an extra inch or two at both ends of the board. This space will be used for the wires that connect the rows together.
Wood is a more common backing material to choose because it’s easier to drill through. You’ll need to drill holes in it for the cell wires to pass through.
1-3. Measure and cut all of your tabbing wire.
When you look at your polycrystalline cells, you’ll see a large number of small lines going in one direction (the long distance) and two larger lines going in the other direction (the short distance). You will need to connect tabbing wire to run down the two larger lines and connect to the back of the next cell in the array. Measure the length of that larger line, double the length, and then cut two pieces for each cell.
1-4. Flux the work area.
Using a flux pen, run 2-3 lines of flux down the length of each cell strip, or group of three squares. Make sure to do this on the back of the cells. This will keep the heat of the soldering from causing oxidation.
1-5. Solder the tabbing.
Use a soldering iron to melt a thin coat of solder onto the back of the cell strips.
This step is not necessary if you purchase pre-soldered tabbing, which is often a better option because it cuts time in half, heats up the cells only once, and wastes less solder. However, it’s more expensive.
1-6. Bond the wire to the cells.
Heat the first half of a piece of tabbing wire with a soldering iron. Then bond the wire’s end to a cell. Repeat this bonding process for each cell.
2. Connecting the Cells
2-1. Glue the cells to the board.
Put a small amount of glue at the back-center of the cells and then press them into place on the board. The tabbing wire should run in a single, straight line through each row. Make sure the ends of the tabbing wire are coming up between the cells and are free to move, with just the two pieces sticking up between each cell.
Keep in mind that one row will have to run in the direction opposite to the one next to it, so that the tabbing wire sticks out at the end of one row and on the opposite side of the next.
You should plan to put the cells in long rows, with a fewer number of rows. For example, three rows each consisting of 12 cells placed long side to long side.
Remember to leave an extra inch (2.5 cm) at both ends of the board.
2-2. Solder the cells together.
Apply flux to the length of the two thick lines (contact pads) on each cell. Then, take the free sections of tabbing wire and solder them to the entire length of the pads.
The tabbing wire connected to the back of one cell should connect to the front of the next cell in every case.
2-3. Connect the first row using bus wire.
At the beginning of the first row, solder tabbing wire to the front of the first cell. The tabbing wire should be about an inch (2.5 cm) longer than needed to cover the lines, and should extend towards the extra gap on the board. Solder those two wires together with a piece of bus wire that’s the same size as the distance between the thick lines of the cell.
2-4. Connect the second row.
Connect the end of the first row to the beginning of the second with a long piece of bus wire that extends between the wire at the edge of the panel and the wire that’s the furthest away in the next row. You will need to prepare the first cell of the second row with extra tabbing wire, as you did with the first.
Connect all four wires to this bus wire.
2-5. Continue connecting the rest of the rows.
Continue connecting the rows with the long bus wires until you reach the end, where you will connect it with a short bus wire again.
3. Building Your Panel Box
3-1. Measure your cell panel.
Measure the space taken up by the panel on which you have placed your cells. You will need the box to be at least this big. Add 1 inch (2.5 cm) to every side, to allow space for the sides of the box. If there will not be a free 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm x 2.5 cm) square spot at each corner after adding the panel, also leave room for this.
Make sure that there is enough space for the bus wires at the end as well.
3-2. Cut the flat back.
Cut a piece of plywood to the size you measured in the previous step, plus the space for the box sides. You can use a table saw or jigsaw, depending on what you have available.
3-3. Form the sides.
Measure two 1 inch by 2 inch (2.5 cm x 5 cm) pieces of non-conductive plank to the length of the long sides of the base of the box. Then, measure two more 1 inch by 2 inch (2.5 cm x 5 cm) planks to fit between these long pieces, completing the box. Cut these pieces you have measured and secure them together using deck screws and butt joints.
It’s important that the sides aren’t too tall because then they may shade the cells when the sun is coming from a sharp angle.
3-4. Attach the sides.
Using deck screws, screw through the top of the sides and into the base to secure the sides to the bottom of the box. The number of screws you use per side will depend on the length of the sides, but no matter the length, you shouldn’t use less than three.
3-5. Paint the box.
You can paint the box whatever color you prefer. Consider using white or reflective colors since this will keep the box cooler, and cells perform better when they are cool. Your panel will last longer if you use paint designed for outdoor use. This type of paint will help protect the wood from the elements.
3-6. Attach the solar unit to the box.
Glue the solar unit to the completed box. Make sure that it is secure and that the cells are facing up and can get sunlight. There should also be two holes in the panel for the ends of the bus wire to go through.
4. Wiring Your Panel
4-1. Connect the final bus wire to a diode.
Get a diode a little bigger than the amperage of your panel and connect it to the bus wire, securing it with some silicone. The light colored end of the diode should be pointing towards where the negative end of the battery goes. The other end should be wired to the negative end of your panel.
This prevents energy from travelling back through the solar panel from the battery when it isn’t charging.
4-2. Connect the other wires.
Connect a black wire to the diode and run it to a terminal block which you will need to mount on the side of the box. Then connect a white wire from the short bus wire on the opposite side to the terminal block.
4-3. Connect your panel to a charge controller.
Purchase a charge controller and connect the panel to the controller, making sure to connect the positive and negative correctly. Run the wires from the terminal block to the charge controller, using color coded wire to keep track of the charges.
If using more than one panel, you might want to connect all of the positive and negative wires together using rings, to make sure you end up with two wires.
4-4. Connect the charge controller to your batteries.
Buy batteries which will work with the size of the panels you built. Connect the charge controller to the batteries according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
4-5. Use the batteries.
Once you have the batteries connected and charged from the panel or panels, you can run your electronics off of the batteries, depending on the amount of power you need for them.
5. Sealing the Box
5-1. Get a piece of plexiglass.
Purchase a piece of plexiglass that is cut to fit inside the box that you made for your panel. You can get this from a specialty shop or from your local hardware store.
Make sure you get plexiglass and not glass, as glass is prone to breaking or chipping.
5-2. Attach block stops for the glass.
Cut 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm x 2.5 cm) blocks of wood to fit into the corners. These should be high enough to fit above the terminal block but low enough to fit below the lip of the box. Glue these stops into place using wood glue.
5-3. Insert your plexiglass.
Fit the plexiglass onto the box so that the glass rests on top of the blocks. Using the appropriate screws and a drill, carefully screw the plexiglass into the blocks.
5-4. Seal the box.
Use a silicone sealant to seal the edges of the box. Also seal any gaps you can find so that box is as watertight as possible. Use the manufacturer’s instructions to properly apply the sealant.
6. Mounting Your Panels
6-1. Mount your panels on a cart.
One option would be to build and mount your panels on a cart. This would place the panel at an angle but allow you to change which direction the panel faces in order to increase the amount of sun it gets in a day. This will, however, require you to adjust the panel 2-3 times a day.
6-2. Mount your panels on your roof.
This is a popular way to mount the panels because they tend to receive the most sunlight and are out of the way. However, the angle will need to be consistent with the sun’s path and your peak load time. This will limit you to only getting full exposure at certain times of day.
This option is best if you have a large number of panels and very little ground space to place them on.
6-3. Mount your panels on a satellite stand.
The stands usually used to mount satellite dishes can also be used to mount solar panels. They can even be programmed to move with the sun. However, this option will only work if you have a very small number of solar panels.
Warnings
If you are not certain about working around electricity, contact a professional. Don't electrocute yourself!
Be careful with all tools.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:07",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling the Pieces\\n1-1. Purchase the cells.\\nThere are a few different types of solar cells to buy, and most good options are either made in the United States, China, or Japan. However, the best cost-to-efficiency option is most likely polycrystalline cells. The number of cells you should buy depends on the amount of energy you’re looking to produce. The specs should be listed when you purchase the cells.\\nMake sure to buy extras. These cells are extremely fragile.\\nCells can most easily be bought online through websites like Ebay, but you may be able to purchase some from your local hardware store.\\nIt may be necessary to clean wax off of the cells, if the manufacturer ships them in wax. To do this, dip them in hot, but not boiling, water.\\nEach cell shouldn’t cost more than $1.30 per watt.\\n1-2. Measure and cut a backing board.\\nYou will need a thin board made out of a non-conductive material, such as glass, plastic, or wood, to attach the cells to. Lay out the cells in the arrangement you will use, then measure the dimensions and cut a board to that size.\\nLeave an extra inch or two at both ends of the board. This space will be used for the wires that connect the rows together.\\nWood is a more common backing material to choose because it’s easier to drill through. You’ll need to drill holes in it for the cell wires to pass through.\\n1-3. Measure and cut all of your tabbing wire.\\nWhen you look at your polycrystalline cells, you’ll see a large number of small lines going in one direction (the long distance) and two larger lines going in the other direction (the short distance). You will need to connect tabbing wire to run down the two larger lines and connect to the back of the next cell in the array. Measure the length of that larger line, double the length, and then cut two pieces for each cell.\\n1-4. Flux the work area.\\nUsing a flux pen, run 2-3 lines of flux down the length of each cell strip, or group of three squares. Make sure to do this on the back of the cells. This will keep the heat of the soldering from causing oxidation.\\n1-5. Solder the tabbing.\\nUse a soldering iron to melt a thin coat of solder onto the back of the cell strips.\\nThis step is not necessary if you purchase pre-soldered tabbing, which is often a better option because it cuts time in half, heats up the cells only once, and wastes less solder. However, it’s more expensive.\\n1-6. Bond the wire to the cells.\\nHeat the first half of a piece of tabbing wire with a soldering iron. Then bond the wire’s end to a cell. Repeat this bonding process for each cell.\\n2. Connecting the Cells\\n2-1. Glue the cells to the board.\\nPut a small amount of glue at the back-center of the cells and then press them into place on the board. The tabbing wire should run in a single, straight line through each row. Make sure the ends of the tabbing wire are coming up between the cells and are free to move, with just the two pieces sticking up between each cell.\\nKeep in mind that one row will have to run in the direction opposite to the one next to it, so that the tabbing wire sticks out at the end of one row and on the opposite side of the next.\\nYou should plan to put the cells in long rows, with a fewer number of rows. For example, three rows each consisting of 12 cells placed long side to long side.\\nRemember to leave an extra inch (2.5 cm) at both ends of the board.\\n2-2. Solder the cells together.\\nApply flux to the length of the two thick lines (contact pads) on each cell. Then, take the free sections of tabbing wire and solder them to the entire length of the pads.\\nThe tabbing wire connected to the back of one cell should connect to the front of the next cell in every case.\\n2-3. Connect the first row using bus wire.\\nAt the beginning of the first row, solder tabbing wire to the front of the first cell. The tabbing wire should be about an inch (2.5 cm) longer than needed to cover the lines, and should extend towards the extra gap on the board. Solder those two wires together with a piece of bus wire that’s the same size as the distance between the thick lines of the cell.\\n2-4. Connect the second row.\\nConnect the end of the first row to the beginning of the second with a long piece of bus wire that extends between the wire at the edge of the panel and the wire that’s the furthest away in the next row. You will need to prepare the first cell of the second row with extra tabbing wire, as you did with the first.\\nConnect all four wires to this bus wire.\\n2-5. Continue connecting the rest of the rows.\\nContinue connecting the rows with the long bus wires until you reach the end, where you will connect it with a short bus wire again.\\n3. Building Your Panel Box\\n3-1. Measure your cell panel.\\nMeasure the space taken up by the panel on which you have placed your cells. You will need the box to be at least this big. Add 1 inch (2.5 cm) to every side, to allow space for the sides of the box. If there will not be a free 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm x 2.5 cm) square spot at each corner after adding the panel, also leave room for this.\\nMake sure that there is enough space for the bus wires at the end as well.\\n3-2. Cut the flat back.\\nCut a piece of plywood to the size you measured in the previous step, plus the space for the box sides. You can use a table saw or jigsaw, depending on what you have available.\\n3-3. Form the sides.\\nMeasure two 1 inch by 2 inch (2.5 cm x 5 cm) pieces of non-conductive plank to the length of the long sides of the base of the box. Then, measure two more 1 inch by 2 inch (2.5 cm x 5 cm) planks to fit between these long pieces, completing the box. Cut these pieces you have measured and secure them together using deck screws and butt joints.\\nIt’s important that the sides aren’t too tall because then they may shade the cells when the sun is coming from a sharp angle.\\n3-4. Attach the sides.\\nUsing deck screws, screw through the top of the sides and into the base to secure the sides to the bottom of the box. The number of screws you use per side will depend on the length of the sides, but no matter the length, you shouldn’t use less than three.\\n3-5. Paint the box.\\nYou can paint the box whatever color you prefer. Consider using white or reflective colors since this will keep the box cooler, and cells perform better when they are cool. Your panel will last longer if you use paint designed for outdoor use. This type of paint will help protect the wood from the elements.\\n3-6. Attach the solar unit to the box.\\nGlue the solar unit to the completed box. Make sure that it is secure and that the cells are facing up and can get sunlight. There should also be two holes in the panel for the ends of the bus wire to go through.\\n4. Wiring Your Panel\\n4-1. Connect the final bus wire to a diode.\\nGet a diode a little bigger than the amperage of your panel and connect it to the bus wire, securing it with some silicone. The light colored end of the diode should be pointing towards where the negative end of the battery goes. The other end should be wired to the negative end of your panel.\\nThis prevents energy from travelling back through the solar panel from the battery when it isn’t charging.\\n4-2. Connect the other wires.\\nConnect a black wire to the diode and run it to a terminal block which you will need to mount on the side of the box. Then connect a white wire from the short bus wire on the opposite side to the terminal block.\\n4-3. Connect your panel to a charge controller.\\nPurchase a charge controller and connect the panel to the controller, making sure to connect the positive and negative correctly. Run the wires from the terminal block to the charge controller, using color coded wire to keep track of the charges.\\nIf using more than one panel, you might want to connect all of the positive and negative wires together using rings, to make sure you end up with two wires.\\n4-4. Connect the charge controller to your batteries.\\nBuy batteries which will work with the size of the panels you built. Connect the charge controller to the batteries according to the manufacturer’s instructions.\\n4-5. Use the batteries.\\nOnce you have the batteries connected and charged from the panel or panels, you can run your electronics off of the batteries, depending on the amount of power you need for them.\\n5. Sealing the Box\\n5-1. Get a piece of plexiglass.\\nPurchase a piece of plexiglass that is cut to fit inside the box that you made for your panel. You can get this from a specialty shop or from your local hardware store.\\nMake sure you get plexiglass and not glass, as glass is prone to breaking or chipping.\\n5-2. Attach block stops for the glass.\\nCut 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm x 2.5 cm) blocks of wood to fit into the corners. These should be high enough to fit above the terminal block but low enough to fit below the lip of the box. Glue these stops into place using wood glue.\\n5-3. Insert your plexiglass.\\nFit the plexiglass onto the box so that the glass rests on top of the blocks. Using the appropriate screws and a drill, carefully screw the plexiglass into the blocks.\\n5-4. Seal the box.\\nUse a silicone sealant to seal the edges of the box. Also seal any gaps you can find so that box is as watertight as possible. Use the manufacturer’s instructions to properly apply the sealant.\\n6. Mounting Your Panels\\n6-1. Mount your panels on a cart.\\nOne option would be to build and mount your panels on a cart. This would place the panel at an angle but allow you to change which direction the panel faces in order to increase the amount of sun it gets in a day. This will, however, require you to adjust the panel 2-3 times a day.\\n6-2. Mount your panels on your roof.\\nThis is a popular way to mount the panels because they tend to receive the most sunlight and are out of the way. However, the angle will need to be consistent with the sun’s path and your peak load time. This will limit you to only getting full exposure at certain times of day.\\nThis option is best if you have a large number of panels and very little ground space to place them on.\\n6-3. Mount your panels on a satellite stand.\\nThe stands usually used to mount satellite dishes can also be used to mount solar panels. They can even be programmed to move with the sun. However, this option will only work if you have a very small number of solar panels.\\nWarnings\\nIf you are not certain about working around electricity, contact a professional. Don't electrocute yourself!\\nBe careful with all tools.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Solar energy is a renewable source of energy that not only benefits you but the environment as well. With the effort you put into making a homemade solar panel, you can help prevent environmental pollution by reducing fossil fuel usage. What’s even better is that you’ll save money on you electric bill. To build your own solar panel, you’ll need to assemble the pieces, connect the cells, build a panel box, wire the panels, seal the box, and then finally mount your completed solar panel.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase the cells.\", \"描述\": \"There are a few different types of solar cells to buy, and most good options are either made in the United States, China, or Japan. However, the best cost-to-efficiency option is most likely polycrystalline cells. The number of cells you should buy depends on the amount of energy you’re looking to produce. The specs should be listed when you purchase the cells.\\nMake sure to buy extras. These cells are extremely fragile.\\nCells can most easily be bought online through websites like Ebay, but you may be able to purchase some from your local hardware store.\\nIt may be necessary to clean wax off of the cells, if the manufacturer ships them in wax. To do this, dip them in hot, but not boiling, water.\\nEach cell shouldn’t cost more than $1.30 per watt.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut a backing board.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a thin board made out of a non-conductive material, such as glass, plastic, or wood, to attach the cells to. Lay out the cells in the arrangement you will use, then measure the dimensions and cut a board to that size.\\nLeave an extra inch or two at both ends of the board. This space will be used for the wires that connect the rows together.\\nWood is a more common backing material to choose because it’s easier to drill through. You’ll need to drill holes in it for the cell wires to pass through.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut all of your tabbing wire.\", \"描述\": \"When you look at your polycrystalline cells, you’ll see a large number of small lines going in one direction (the long distance) and two larger lines going in the other direction (the short distance). You will need to connect tabbing wire to run down the two larger lines and connect to the back of the next cell in the array. Measure the length of that larger line, double the length, and then cut two pieces for each cell.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Flux the work area.\", \"描述\": \"Using a flux pen, run 2-3 lines of flux down the length of each cell strip, or group of three squares. Make sure to do this on the back of the cells. This will keep the heat of the soldering from causing oxidation.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Solder the tabbing.\", \"描述\": \"Use a soldering iron to melt a thin coat of solder onto the back of the cell strips.\\nThis step is not necessary if you purchase pre-soldered tabbing, which is often a better option because it cuts time in half, heats up the cells only once, and wastes less solder. However, it’s more expensive.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Bond the wire to the cells.\", \"描述\": \"Heat the first half of a piece of tabbing wire with a soldering iron. Then bond the wire’s end to a cell. Repeat this bonding process for each cell.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connecting the Cells\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Glue the cells to the board.\", \"描述\": \"Put a small amount of glue at the back-center of the cells and then press them into place on the board. The tabbing wire should run in a single, straight line through each row. Make sure the ends of the tabbing wire are coming up between the cells and are free to move, with just the two pieces sticking up between each cell.\\nKeep in mind that one row will have to run in the direction opposite to the one next to it, so that the tabbing wire sticks out at the end of one row and on the opposite side of the next.\\nYou should plan to put the cells in long rows, with a fewer number of rows. For example, three rows each consisting of 12 cells placed long side to long side.\\nRemember to leave an extra inch (2.5 cm) at both ends of the board.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Solder the cells together.\", \"描述\": \"Apply flux to the length of the two thick lines (contact pads) on each cell. Then, take the free sections of tabbing wire and solder them to the entire length of the pads.\\nThe tabbing wire connected to the back of one cell should connect to the front of the next cell in every case.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the first row using bus wire.\", \"描述\": \"At the beginning of the first row, solder tabbing wire to the front of the first cell. The tabbing wire should be about an inch (2.5 cm) longer than needed to cover the lines, and should extend towards the extra gap on the board. Solder those two wires together with a piece of bus wire that’s the same size as the distance between the thick lines of the cell.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the second row.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the end of the first row to the beginning of the second with a long piece of bus wire that extends between the wire at the edge of the panel and the wire that’s the furthest away in the next row. You will need to prepare the first cell of the second row with extra tabbing wire, as you did with the first.\\nConnect all four wires to this bus wire.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Continue connecting the rest of the rows.\", \"描述\": \"Continue connecting the rows with the long bus wires until you reach the end, where you will connect it with a short bus wire again.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building Your Panel Box\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your cell panel.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the space taken up by the panel on which you have placed your cells. You will need the box to be at least this big. Add 1 inch (2.5 cm) to every side, to allow space for the sides of the box. If there will not be a free 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm x 2.5 cm) square spot at each corner after adding the panel, also leave room for this.\\nMake sure that there is enough space for the bus wires at the end as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the flat back.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a piece of plywood to the size you measured in the previous step, plus the space for the box sides. You can use a table saw or jigsaw, depending on what you have available.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Form the sides.\", \"描述\": \"Measure two 1 inch by 2 inch (2.5 cm x 5 cm) pieces of non-conductive plank to the length of the long sides of the base of the box. Then, measure two more 1 inch by 2 inch (2.5 cm x 5 cm) planks to fit between these long pieces, completing the box. Cut these pieces you have measured and secure them together using deck screws and butt joints.\\nIt’s important that the sides aren’t too tall because then they may shade the cells when the sun is coming from a sharp angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the sides.\", \"描述\": \"Using deck screws, screw through the top of the sides and into the base to secure the sides to the bottom of the box. The number of screws you use per side will depend on the length of the sides, but no matter the length, you shouldn’t use less than three.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Paint the box.\", \"描述\": \"You can paint the box whatever color you prefer. Consider using white or reflective colors since this will keep the box cooler, and cells perform better when they are cool. Your panel will last longer if you use paint designed for outdoor use. This type of paint will help protect the wood from the elements.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the solar unit to the box.\", \"描述\": \"Glue the solar unit to the completed box. Make sure that it is secure and that the cells are facing up and can get sunlight. There should also be two holes in the panel for the ends of the bus wire to go through.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wiring Your Panel\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect the final bus wire to a diode.\", \"描述\": \"Get a diode a little bigger than the amperage of your panel and connect it to the bus wire, securing it with some silicone. The light colored end of the diode should be pointing towards where the negative end of the battery goes. The other end should be wired to the negative end of your panel.\\nThis prevents energy from travelling back through the solar panel from the battery when it isn’t charging.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect the other wires.\", \"描述\": \"Connect a black wire to the diode and run it to a terminal block which you will need to mount on the side of the box. Then connect a white wire from the short bus wire on the opposite side to the terminal block.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect your panel to a charge controller.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase a charge controller and connect the panel to the controller, making sure to connect the positive and negative correctly. Run the wires from the terminal block to the charge controller, using color coded wire to keep track of the charges.\\nIf using more than one panel, you might want to connect all of the positive and negative wires together using rings, to make sure you end up with two wires.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the charge controller to your batteries.\", \"描述\": \"Buy batteries which will work with the size of the panels you built. Connect the charge controller to the batteries according to the manufacturer’s instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use the batteries.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the batteries connected and charged from the panel or panels, you can run your electronics off of the batteries, depending on the amount of power you need for them.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Sealing the Box\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a piece of plexiglass.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase a piece of plexiglass that is cut to fit inside the box that you made for your panel. You can get this from a specialty shop or from your local hardware store.\\nMake sure you get plexiglass and not glass, as glass is prone to breaking or chipping.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach block stops for the glass.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm x 2.5 cm) blocks of wood to fit into the corners. These should be high enough to fit above the terminal block but low enough to fit below the lip of the box. Glue these stops into place using wood glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert your plexiglass.\", \"描述\": \"Fit the plexiglass onto the box so that the glass rests on top of the blocks. Using the appropriate screws and a drill, carefully screw the plexiglass into the blocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Seal the box.\", \"描述\": \"Use a silicone sealant to seal the edges of the box. Also seal any gaps you can find so that box is as watertight as possible. Use the manufacturer’s instructions to properly apply the sealant.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Mounting Your Panels\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mount your panels on a cart.\", \"描述\": \"One option would be to build and mount your panels on a cart. This would place the panel at an angle but allow you to change which direction the panel faces in order to increase the amount of sun it gets in a day. This will, however, require you to adjust the panel 2-3 times a day.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mount your panels on your roof.\", \"描述\": \"This is a popular way to mount the panels because they tend to receive the most sunlight and are out of the way. However, the angle will need to be consistent with the sun’s path and your peak load time. This will limit you to only getting full exposure at certain times of day.\\nThis option is best if you have a large number of panels and very little ground space to place them on.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mount your panels on a satellite stand.\", \"描述\": \"The stands usually used to mount satellite dishes can also be used to mount solar panels. They can even be programmed to move with the sun. However, this option will only work if you have a very small number of solar panels.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"If you are not certain about working around electricity, contact a professional. Don't electrocute yourself!\\n\", \"Be careful with all tools.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,559 |
How to Build a Sound Proof Room
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1. Easy Methods
1-1. Install sound curtains or thick blankets.
You can absorb a little sound by mounting thick blankets to the wall. If you're willing to spend a little money, purchase heavy sound curtains instead.
If you have thick, insulated walls, this will have little additional effect.
1-2. Use bookcases.
You can make walls thicker and more soundproofed by simply making use of bookshelves. Cover a wall in bookshelves and books for a fairly effective sound barrier. Plus, you get a nice library out of the deal.
1-3. Mount shaky items.
Have you ever had a neighbor turn their music up really loud and noticed that buzzing, rattling vibration sound more than anything else? Yeah, that’s why you’re going to want to mount items like speakers. Use vibration insulation pads when mounting to keep items like speakers from annoying everyone around you.
1-4. Install a door sweep.
Nail this rubber loop to the base of a door to block the gap. If the gap is too large to cover with a sweep, nail a strip of lumber to the base of the door first.
1-5. Use acoustic wedges panels.
Purchase 12"x12" panels with a 2" depth curve relief. These do well to absorb low to high frequencies. Some panels come already with an adhesive peel. Use 3M spray adhesive to glue the panels to the walls and ceiling if it doesn't come with adhesive peel. You can cover all or just parts of the surface, depending on the amount of dampening you desire. This cuts down on the 'noise' inside the room and keeps your ears happy, especially if it is music rehearsal space.
Use a panel that is mostly fiberglass with a thin Mylar perforated facing. These types of panels have the highest ratings in sound absorption values among almost all but the most expensive specialty tiles. They will give you far more bang for buck than any other on the market.
2. Soundproof Construction
2-1. Use thick material.
The thicker and denser the material, the more sound it will absorb. Consider using ⅝" (1.6 cm) drywall instead of the thinner sizes You could also use concrete or brick, if that's an option.
If you are improving on an existing wall, build a basic wall frame and attach it to the surface, anchoring it to the existing studs. Cover this with a new layer of drywall or sheetrock—or even multiple layers of drywall, for the best results.
2-2. Separate the two layers of wall.
Whenever sound travels into a new substances, some of its energy is absorbed, and some is reflected. Increase this effect by building the wall from two sheets of drywall or sheetrock, with as much space between them as possible. This is called decoupling.
Decoupling actually makes the wall worse at blocking low frequencies, due to the resonance of the wall. If the gap is only 1 inch (2.5 cm) or less, a damping compound is highly recommended to fight this effect.
2-3. Plan your stud placement.
Most walls contain a single row of studs touching both layers of wall. Sound travels easily through these studs, which can cancel out a great deal of work. When building a new wall, choose one of the following stud placements instead:
A double row of studs, one along each interior side. This is the most soundproof method, but requires enough space to leave a gap between the two rows.
A staggered row of studs, alternating placement along one interior side, then the other.
2-4. Consider sound clips or channels.
These are placed between the studs and the drywall, providing an additional barrier for sound. There are two main options:
are the most effective method, absorbing sound with heavy rubber components. Screw them into the studs, insert a hat channel, then screw the drywall into the channel.
is a springy metal channel designed for soundproofing. Screw this to the studs and drywall using offset screws. This may improve high-frequency blocking at the expense of low frequencies.
Note that hat channels are not effective at sound proofing.
2-5. Fill walls with a damping compound.
This magical substance converts sound energy to heat. This can be used between layers of wall, floor, or ceiling. Unlike most other methods, this should absorb low-frequency noise. This makes it ideal if you expect loud bass from music and home theater systems.
This is also sold as noise proofing glue or viscoelastic adhesive.
Some of these compounds may take days or weeks to "cure" to their full potential.
2-6. Insulate with other material.
Damping compound is one of the best all-purpose soundproofers, but there are many other insulation materials.
Fiberglass is cheap and fairly effective.
Try using spray foam or cotton batt insulation in your wall cavities to help block sound.
2-7. Fill cracks with acoustical caulk.
Even small cracks and gaps between materials can undermine sound proofing. Special acoustical caulk (also sold as acoustical sealant) fills these gaps with an elastic, sound-resistant material. Fill all cracks, as well as seams around the walls and windows. Keep the following in mind:
Water-based caulks are easier to clean up. If using a solvent-based caulk, check the label to make sure it won't harm your materials.
If the caulk doesn't match the wall color, choose one that specifically says it can be painted over.
Consider using normal caulk for the smallest cracks, since acoustical caulk is more difficult to handle.
2-8. Soundproof floors and ceilings.
Floors and ceilings can be soundproofed using many of the same systems suitable for walls. Most commonly, homeowners add an additional layer (or two) of drywall, with dampening glue in between. As a simple additional step, cover the floor with soundproofing mats, then install carpet.
You do not need to soundproof the floor if there is no room below you.
Heavy concrete ceilings won't benefit much from the additional mass of drywall and damping compound. Instead, add a drywall layer with an air gap in between, or fill the gap with fiberglass insulation.
2-9. Install soundproofing panels.
If the soundproofing in your completed room is not substantial enough, you can also use acoustic panels. Cheap options are available, but the more expensive panels may be more effective.
Be sure to attach these to wall studs or other strong structures.
2-10. Finished.
Tips
Replace rigid cellulose ceiling tiles. They mostly reflect sound.
Caulk gaps around any openings for lighting, etc. as well as the perimeter of the drop ceiling.
Warnings
Construction or heavy modification of walls, floors, and ceilings should be done under experienced supervision only.
The standard STC soundproof rating system is not always useful. It does not take into account any frequencies below 125 Hertz, which includes sound from music, traffic, airplanes, and construction.[17]
X
Research source
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:07",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Easy Methods\\n1-1. Install sound curtains or thick blankets.\\nYou can absorb a little sound by mounting thick blankets to the wall. If you're willing to spend a little money, purchase heavy sound curtains instead.\\nIf you have thick, insulated walls, this will have little additional effect.\\n1-2. Use bookcases.\\nYou can make walls thicker and more soundproofed by simply making use of bookshelves. Cover a wall in bookshelves and books for a fairly effective sound barrier. Plus, you get a nice library out of the deal.\\n1-3. Mount shaky items.\\nHave you ever had a neighbor turn their music up really loud and noticed that buzzing, rattling vibration sound more than anything else? Yeah, that’s why you’re going to want to mount items like speakers. Use vibration insulation pads when mounting to keep items like speakers from annoying everyone around you.\\n1-4. Install a door sweep.\\nNail this rubber loop to the base of a door to block the gap. If the gap is too large to cover with a sweep, nail a strip of lumber to the base of the door first.\\n1-5. Use acoustic wedges panels.\\nPurchase 12\\\"x12\\\" panels with a 2\\\" depth curve relief. These do well to absorb low to high frequencies. Some panels come already with an adhesive peel. Use 3M spray adhesive to glue the panels to the walls and ceiling if it doesn't come with adhesive peel. You can cover all or just parts of the surface, depending on the amount of dampening you desire. This cuts down on the 'noise' inside the room and keeps your ears happy, especially if it is music rehearsal space.\\nUse a panel that is mostly fiberglass with a thin Mylar perforated facing. These types of panels have the highest ratings in sound absorption values among almost all but the most expensive specialty tiles. They will give you far more bang for buck than any other on the market.\\n2. Soundproof Construction\\n2-1. Use thick material.\\nThe thicker and denser the material, the more sound it will absorb. Consider using ⅝\\\" (1.6 cm) drywall instead of the thinner sizes You could also use concrete or brick, if that's an option.\\nIf you are improving on an existing wall, build a basic wall frame and attach it to the surface, anchoring it to the existing studs. Cover this with a new layer of drywall or sheetrock—or even multiple layers of drywall, for the best results.\\n2-2. Separate the two layers of wall.\\nWhenever sound travels into a new substances, some of its energy is absorbed, and some is reflected. Increase this effect by building the wall from two sheets of drywall or sheetrock, with as much space between them as possible. This is called decoupling.\\nDecoupling actually makes the wall worse at blocking low frequencies, due to the resonance of the wall. If the gap is only 1 inch (2.5 cm) or less, a damping compound is highly recommended to fight this effect.\\n2-3. Plan your stud placement.\\nMost walls contain a single row of studs touching both layers of wall. Sound travels easily through these studs, which can cancel out a great deal of work. When building a new wall, choose one of the following stud placements instead:\\nA double row of studs, one along each interior side. This is the most soundproof method, but requires enough space to leave a gap between the two rows.\\nA staggered row of studs, alternating placement along one interior side, then the other.\\n2-4. Consider sound clips or channels.\\nThese are placed between the studs and the drywall, providing an additional barrier for sound. There are two main options:\\n\\n are the most effective method, absorbing sound with heavy rubber components. Screw them into the studs, insert a hat channel, then screw the drywall into the channel.\\n\\n is a springy metal channel designed for soundproofing. Screw this to the studs and drywall using offset screws. This may improve high-frequency blocking at the expense of low frequencies.\\nNote that hat channels are not effective at sound proofing.\\n2-5. Fill walls with a damping compound.\\nThis magical substance converts sound energy to heat. This can be used between layers of wall, floor, or ceiling. Unlike most other methods, this should absorb low-frequency noise. This makes it ideal if you expect loud bass from music and home theater systems.\\nThis is also sold as noise proofing glue or viscoelastic adhesive.\\nSome of these compounds may take days or weeks to \\\"cure\\\" to their full potential.\\n2-6. Insulate with other material.\\nDamping compound is one of the best all-purpose soundproofers, but there are many other insulation materials.\\nFiberglass is cheap and fairly effective.\\nTry using spray foam or cotton batt insulation in your wall cavities to help block sound.\\n2-7. Fill cracks with acoustical caulk.\\nEven small cracks and gaps between materials can undermine sound proofing. Special acoustical caulk (also sold as acoustical sealant) fills these gaps with an elastic, sound-resistant material. Fill all cracks, as well as seams around the walls and windows. Keep the following in mind:\\nWater-based caulks are easier to clean up. If using a solvent-based caulk, check the label to make sure it won't harm your materials.\\nIf the caulk doesn't match the wall color, choose one that specifically says it can be painted over.\\nConsider using normal caulk for the smallest cracks, since acoustical caulk is more difficult to handle.\\n2-8. Soundproof floors and ceilings.\\nFloors and ceilings can be soundproofed using many of the same systems suitable for walls. Most commonly, homeowners add an additional layer (or two) of drywall, with dampening glue in between. As a simple additional step, cover the floor with soundproofing mats, then install carpet.\\nYou do not need to soundproof the floor if there is no room below you.\\nHeavy concrete ceilings won't benefit much from the additional mass of drywall and damping compound. Instead, add a drywall layer with an air gap in between, or fill the gap with fiberglass insulation.\\n2-9. Install soundproofing panels.\\nIf the soundproofing in your completed room is not substantial enough, you can also use acoustic panels. Cheap options are available, but the more expensive panels may be more effective.\\nBe sure to attach these to wall studs or other strong structures.\\n2-10. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nReplace rigid cellulose ceiling tiles. They mostly reflect sound.\\nCaulk gaps around any openings for lighting, etc. as well as the perimeter of the drop ceiling.\\nWarnings\\nConstruction or heavy modification of walls, floors, and ceilings should be done under experienced supervision only.\\nThe standard STC soundproof rating system is not always useful. It does not take into account any frequencies below 125 Hertz, which includes sound from music, traffic, airplanes, and construction.[17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you need a fortress of solitude or want to start your own recording studio or music space, you will want to soundproof the space you intend to use. Read below for some helpful advice on how you can soundproof a room on the cheap or do it like the pros.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Easy Methods\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install sound curtains or thick blankets.\", \"描述\": \"You can absorb a little sound by mounting thick blankets to the wall. If you're willing to spend a little money, purchase heavy sound curtains instead.\\nIf you have thick, insulated walls, this will have little additional effect.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use bookcases.\", \"描述\": \"You can make walls thicker and more soundproofed by simply making use of bookshelves. Cover a wall in bookshelves and books for a fairly effective sound barrier. Plus, you get a nice library out of the deal.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mount shaky items.\", \"描述\": \"Have you ever had a neighbor turn their music up really loud and noticed that buzzing, rattling vibration sound more than anything else? Yeah, that’s why you’re going to want to mount items like speakers. Use vibration insulation pads when mounting to keep items like speakers from annoying everyone around you.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install a door sweep.\", \"描述\": \"Nail this rubber loop to the base of a door to block the gap. If the gap is too large to cover with a sweep, nail a strip of lumber to the base of the door first.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use acoustic wedges panels.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase 12\\\"x12\\\" panels with a 2\\\" depth curve relief. These do well to absorb low to high frequencies. Some panels come already with an adhesive peel. Use 3M spray adhesive to glue the panels to the walls and ceiling if it doesn't come with adhesive peel. You can cover all or just parts of the surface, depending on the amount of dampening you desire. This cuts down on the 'noise' inside the room and keeps your ears happy, especially if it is music rehearsal space.\\nUse a panel that is mostly fiberglass with a thin Mylar perforated facing. These types of panels have the highest ratings in sound absorption values among almost all but the most expensive specialty tiles. They will give you far more bang for buck than any other on the market.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Soundproof Construction\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use thick material.\", \"描述\": \"The thicker and denser the material, the more sound it will absorb. Consider using ⅝\\\" (1.6 cm) drywall instead of the thinner sizes You could also use concrete or brick, if that's an option.\\nIf you are improving on an existing wall, build a basic wall frame and attach it to the surface, anchoring it to the existing studs. Cover this with a new layer of drywall or sheetrock—or even multiple layers of drywall, for the best results.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Separate the two layers of wall.\", \"描述\": \"Whenever sound travels into a new substances, some of its energy is absorbed, and some is reflected. Increase this effect by building the wall from two sheets of drywall or sheetrock, with as much space between them as possible. This is called decoupling.\\nDecoupling actually makes the wall worse at blocking low frequencies, due to the resonance of the wall. If the gap is only 1 inch (2.5 cm) or less, a damping compound is highly recommended to fight this effect.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plan your stud placement.\", \"描述\": \"Most walls contain a single row of studs touching both layers of wall. Sound travels easily through these studs, which can cancel out a great deal of work. When building a new wall, choose one of the following stud placements instead:\\nA double row of studs, one along each interior side. This is the most soundproof method, but requires enough space to leave a gap between the two rows.\\nA staggered row of studs, alternating placement along one interior side, then the other.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider sound clips or channels.\", \"描述\": \"These are placed between the studs and the drywall, providing an additional barrier for sound. There are two main options:\\n\\n are the most effective method, absorbing sound with heavy rubber components. Screw them into the studs, insert a hat channel, then screw the drywall into the channel.\\n\\n is a springy metal channel designed for soundproofing. Screw this to the studs and drywall using offset screws. This may improve high-frequency blocking at the expense of low frequencies.\\nNote that hat channels are not effective at sound proofing.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fill walls with a damping compound.\", \"描述\": \"This magical substance converts sound energy to heat. This can be used between layers of wall, floor, or ceiling. Unlike most other methods, this should absorb low-frequency noise. This makes it ideal if you expect loud bass from music and home theater systems.\\nThis is also sold as noise proofing glue or viscoelastic adhesive.\\nSome of these compounds may take days or weeks to \\\"cure\\\" to their full potential.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Insulate with other material.\", \"描述\": \"Damping compound is one of the best all-purpose soundproofers, but there are many other insulation materials.\\nFiberglass is cheap and fairly effective.\\nTry using spray foam or cotton batt insulation in your wall cavities to help block sound.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fill cracks with acoustical caulk.\", \"描述\": \"Even small cracks and gaps between materials can undermine sound proofing. Special acoustical caulk (also sold as acoustical sealant) fills these gaps with an elastic, sound-resistant material. Fill all cracks, as well as seams around the walls and windows. Keep the following in mind:\\nWater-based caulks are easier to clean up. If using a solvent-based caulk, check the label to make sure it won't harm your materials.\\nIf the caulk doesn't match the wall color, choose one that specifically says it can be painted over.\\nConsider using normal caulk for the smallest cracks, since acoustical caulk is more difficult to handle.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Soundproof floors and ceilings.\", \"描述\": \"Floors and ceilings can be soundproofed using many of the same systems suitable for walls. Most commonly, homeowners add an additional layer (or two) of drywall, with dampening glue in between. As a simple additional step, cover the floor with soundproofing mats, then install carpet.\\nYou do not need to soundproof the floor if there is no room below you.\\nHeavy concrete ceilings won't benefit much from the additional mass of drywall and damping compound. Instead, add a drywall layer with an air gap in between, or fill the gap with fiberglass insulation.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Install soundproofing panels.\", \"描述\": \"If the soundproofing in your completed room is not substantial enough, you can also use acoustic panels. Cheap options are available, but the more expensive panels may be more effective.\\nBe sure to attach these to wall studs or other strong structures.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Replace rigid cellulose ceiling tiles. They mostly reflect sound.\\n\", \"Caulk gaps around any openings for lighting, etc. as well as the perimeter of the drop ceiling.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Construction or heavy modification of walls, floors, and ceilings should be done under experienced supervision only.\\n\", \"The standard STC soundproof rating system is not always useful. It does not take into account any frequencies below 125 Hertz, which includes sound from music, traffic, airplanes, and construction.[17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,560 |
How to Build a Space Station in Kerbal Space Program (KSP)
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1. Steps
1-1. Practice docking.
You simply cannot build a space station without any knowledge of docking. Because of the weight of the entire thing, you will have to send it up in stages and this will require performing an orbital rendezvous and docking.
1-2. Plan your space station.
How big will it be? What will you use it for? Will it have short-term and/or long-term accommodation for Kerbanauts? Will it have refuelling facilities? Where will you put it? Bear in mind, it is best to build your first in Kerbin orbit as this does not require as much fuel as it does to go for, say Duna, but it will require more than a plain ship does.
1-3. Build the first section!
As mentioned above you will have to send your space station up in stages. Something like this: 1st Stage, command module (manned), accommodation etc, 2nd Stage, command module (unmanned), refueling post, docking port/s on side for spacecraft to dock to, 3rd Stage, anything you want! Try to make sure that there is only one Kerbal aboard the station while it is being built (like Jebediah because he is always happy), also, when you send the refueling post make sure it is empty and then send up a Supply Services ship to your space station with more Kerbals and fuel to transfer - this is what the SpaceX Commercial Supply Services flight to the ISS do.
1-4. Try to get an equilateral orbit around your chosen celestial body, and decide on an altitude.
Think: if your station will greet spacecraft coming from other missions then you will want it around 100 kilometers (62 mi) - that way you can transfer the crew to the station while they wait for another ship to take them home. Alternately, put it in a lower orbit at about 80 kilometers (50 mi) for refueling because then both arriving and departing ships can benefit
1-5. Take it from there!
Well done, by now you should have you starting module in orbit around your chosen body. Now you need to finish it: send up some fuel tanks, extra accommodation, research facilities - whatever you can think of! Once you are happy with your station then think about sending a flight up every so often - to refuel it and take Kerbals home and/or send up new ones - or find a mod the requires you to send up food and oxygen every so often.
Tips
Don't be restricted by this guide - let your imagination run wild!
If you really cannot master docking then use MechJeb, an autopilot system
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:07",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Practice docking.\\nYou simply cannot build a space station without any knowledge of docking. Because of the weight of the entire thing, you will have to send it up in stages and this will require performing an orbital rendezvous and docking.\\n1-2. Plan your space station.\\nHow big will it be? What will you use it for? Will it have short-term and/or long-term accommodation for Kerbanauts? Will it have refuelling facilities? Where will you put it? Bear in mind, it is best to build your first in Kerbin orbit as this does not require as much fuel as it does to go for, say Duna, but it will require more than a plain ship does.\\n1-3. Build the first section!\\nAs mentioned above you will have to send your space station up in stages. Something like this: 1st Stage, command module (manned), accommodation etc, 2nd Stage, command module (unmanned), refueling post, docking port/s on side for spacecraft to dock to, 3rd Stage, anything you want! Try to make sure that there is only one Kerbal aboard the station while it is being built (like Jebediah because he is always happy), also, when you send the refueling post make sure it is empty and then send up a Supply Services ship to your space station with more Kerbals and fuel to transfer - this is what the SpaceX Commercial Supply Services flight to the ISS do.\\n1-4. Try to get an equilateral orbit around your chosen celestial body, and decide on an altitude.\\nThink: if your station will greet spacecraft coming from other missions then you will want it around 100 kilometers (62 mi) - that way you can transfer the crew to the station while they wait for another ship to take them home. Alternately, put it in a lower orbit at about 80 kilometers (50 mi) for refueling because then both arriving and departing ships can benefit\\n1-5. Take it from there!\\nWell done, by now you should have you starting module in orbit around your chosen body. Now you need to finish it: send up some fuel tanks, extra accommodation, research facilities - whatever you can think of! Once you are happy with your station then think about sending a flight up every so often - to refuel it and take Kerbals home and/or send up new ones - or find a mod the requires you to send up food and oxygen every so often.\\nTips\\nDon't be restricted by this guide - let your imagination run wild!\\nIf you really cannot master docking then use MechJeb, an autopilot system\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Along with landing on Eeloo, having a large Mun base and making an interplanetary satellite link coverage system, building an orbital space station is one of the most ambitious things to do in Kerbal Space Program. You'll need a basic knowledge of some activities, including docking, and it's probably a good idea to start small. However, once you put your mind to it, the results can be very satisfying! Our how-to guide will give you the instructions you need to start building your own space station in KSP.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Practice docking.\", \"描述\": \"You simply cannot build a space station without any knowledge of docking. Because of the weight of the entire thing, you will have to send it up in stages and this will require performing an orbital rendezvous and docking.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan your space station.\", \"描述\": \"How big will it be? What will you use it for? Will it have short-term and/or long-term accommodation for Kerbanauts? Will it have refuelling facilities? Where will you put it? Bear in mind, it is best to build your first in Kerbin orbit as this does not require as much fuel as it does to go for, say Duna, but it will require more than a plain ship does.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the first section!\", \"描述\": \"As mentioned above you will have to send your space station up in stages. Something like this: 1st Stage, command module (manned), accommodation etc, 2nd Stage, command module (unmanned), refueling post, docking port/s on side for spacecraft to dock to, 3rd Stage, anything you want! Try to make sure that there is only one Kerbal aboard the station while it is being built (like Jebediah because he is always happy), also, when you send the refueling post make sure it is empty and then send up a Supply Services ship to your space station with more Kerbals and fuel to transfer - this is what the SpaceX Commercial Supply Services flight to the ISS do.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try to get an equilateral orbit around your chosen celestial body, and decide on an altitude.\", \"描述\": \"Think: if your station will greet spacecraft coming from other missions then you will want it around 100 kilometers (62 mi) - that way you can transfer the crew to the station while they wait for another ship to take them home. Alternately, put it in a lower orbit at about 80 kilometers (50 mi) for refueling because then both arriving and departing ships can benefit\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Take it from there!\", \"描述\": \"Well done, by now you should have you starting module in orbit around your chosen body. Now you need to finish it: send up some fuel tanks, extra accommodation, research facilities - whatever you can think of! Once you are happy with your station then think about sending a flight up every so often - to refuel it and take Kerbals home and/or send up new ones - or find a mod the requires you to send up food and oxygen every so often.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Don't be restricted by this guide - let your imagination run wild!\\n\", \"If you really cannot master docking then use MechJeb, an autopilot system\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,561 |
How to Build a Spaghetti Bridge
|
1. Building the Bridge
1-1. Design a support structure for your bridge.
You will first need to build or find a structure that simulates the terrain on either side of the bridge. You can build a bridge across two, equally tall tables or build a structure out of wood to place your bridge on. It's usually best to build the structure so that you can hang a container of some type underneath the bridge.
1-2. Determine your bridge length.
Now that the support structure is in place, you need to measure the distance between the two sides of the support structure to determine the length that your bridge will need to span.
It's a good idea to start with a short distance when building your first spaghetti bridge. Then, slowly increase the length of your bridges as you learn how to build them successfully.
1-3. Design a template.
Design your bridge on a sheet of graph paper first. Cover the paper with a clear plastic film, such as plastic wrap, and use it as a template. Lay the spaghetti strands over your drawn design to cut them to the right length and glue them together.
Draw a sketch of your bridge on the graph paper first before laying down the clear film covering.
Then lay your spaghetti over the lines you have drawn on the graph paper.
Once you have ensured that the spaghetti has been cut to the proper specifications outlined on your graph paper, remove the spaghetti from the clear film covering and carefully glue the pieces together.
1-4. Choose your adhesive.
The type of glue you use will make or break your bridge. Regular craft glue is a poor choice, as it is water based, which causes the pasta to soften when the glue is applied, and it takes a long time to dry. Model airplane glue and hot glue from a glue gun are easy to apply, but are slightly more flexible when they dry. This is not ideal for reinforcing the joints of your bridge. Epoxy, although messy, is the ideal solution for maximizing the strength of your bridge. Epoxy dries up firmly and will provide the best support for your bridge joints. Many brands of epoxy dry in five minutes or less.
You can buy epoxy at a home improvement store or online.
When working with very young children, you can use marshmallows or even popcorn to hold the joints together, rather than glue for fun and safety. This obviously makes for a less sturdy bridge, but the same general principles of engineering can be gleaned from the exercise.
1-5. Build your trusses.
Trusses are triangle-shaped support beams that attach point-side down to the roadbed of the bridge on either side. Attach the trusses to each other with glue. Trusses distribute the forces of the weight you will add to the bridge.
Rectangular trusses will work, but will drastically decrease the weight or load your bridge can hold. Triangular trusses are ideal for building a spaghetti bridge.
1-6. Create the roadbed.
You can do this by gluing several layers of spaghetti to each other to make a thick, flat roadbed. You may want to leave the strands unglued in some layers so they will naturally move and help redistribute the weight.
1-7. Attach the trusses.
Securely attach the trusses you have built to each side of the roadbed and to the trusses on the other side. The finished bridge will have a roadbed on the bottom with trusses rising above on both sides, like walls and a roof.
1-8. Weigh your bridge.
Rather than setting the bridge itself on the scale, set it on something stable like a box and weigh both. Then, subtract the weight of the box. You can also use 2 scales, placing 1 underneath each edge of the bridge, and then add the weights together.
Weighing the bridge is optional. This is usually done as an instructive method. It allows a teacher to show the relationship between the bridge's total weight and the weight it can hold.
2. Collapsing the Bridge
2-1. Set the bridge in place.
Carefully position your spaghetti bridge over the support structure you arranged or built. Check that each side of the bridge has the same amount of bridge edge on the support structures to help stabilize it.
2-2. Hang a lightweight container under the center of the bridge.
You might use half an envelope or a paper box. The size of the container will necessarily depend on the size of the bridge you have built. Use a string or bent paperclip to attach the container to the center of the bridge.
A thin bridge may break immediately after you attach the container, but a thicker, stronger spaghetti bridge will hold.
You can use multiple hanging points to distribute the weight evenly across the bridge.
Alternatively, you can place the weight directly on the roadbed of the bridge. However, this will increase the chances of you accidentally collapsing the bridge when placing weights on it, so be very careful.
2-3. Acquire weighted objects.
Again, the size and density of the weighted objects will depend on the size of the bridge you built. For smaller bridges, coins will work as weighted objects. For larger bridges, consider using something like bags of sand or, if your bridge is quite large, actual weights from a weight set.
Make sure you know the actual weight of the objects you use so that you can accurately determine how much weight you’ve added to the bridge before it collapses.
2-4. Add weight.
Begin to add weights to the container a little at a time. Take care not to jar the bridge or cause the container to swing. This can be a very nerve-wracking process.
2-5. Watch the bridge collapse.
Eventually, you will have added too much weight for your bridge to hold and it will collapse. After enjoying the bridge’s destruction, determine how much weight the bridge held by calculating the sum of the weights you added to the bridge.
2-6. Go back to the drawing board.
You will now want to go through this process again making minor alterations to the materials or adjustments to how you constructed the bridge. The goal here is to see if you can build a stronger bridge capable of holding more weight. Like any good science experiment, a little trial and error will be necessary.
3. Strengthening Your Bridge
3-1. Select the best building materials.
If you want to make a bridge that can sustain large amounts of weight, you will need to use the best materials. As stated above, epoxy is the strongest bonding agent you can use. Also, you want to make sure you have plenty of pasta on-hand to make the necessary reinforcements to your bridge.
Consider the benefits and disadvantages of various types of pasta.Rounded spaghetti noodles may be better for some parts of your bridge while flattened noodles, like linguine, may be better for other parts.
3-2. Design a stronger bridge.
The purpose of building a spaghetti bridge is to apply the theoretical principles of engineering to a real-life construction project. As such, how you design the bridge deeply impacts the overall strength of the bridge. Some tips for building a stronger bridge include:
Use triangular rather than rectangular trusses.
Build the roadbed with multiple layers of pasta.
You should leave the middle layer of your pasta roadbed unglued. Some flexibility in the pasta helps to redistribute weight across your bridge.
3-3. Limit the space your bridge must cover.
The longer the gap a bridge has to span, the harder it will be to redistribute the weight from one area across the entire bridge. So, if it is up to you, making a shorter bridge will help your bridge sustain more weight.
3-4. Strike a balance.
There is a relationship between the weight and strength of your bridge. Adding more pasta to your bridge during construction, when properly built, should add strength, but also adds more weight. The heavier your bridge is, the more likely it is that it will collapse when extra weight is applied. So, make sure you account for the weight of your bridge when designing your bridge.
4. Entering Your Bridge for Competition
4-1. Identify where to compete.
A number of schools, school districts, science museums, universities, and engineering-oriented groups hold spaghetti bridge building competitions. Find one in your area and sign up.
Some competitions have various categories for different types of bridges. Make sure you identify what type of bridge you want to build for the competition and enter it into the correct category.
4-2. Read the rules closely.
Spaghetti bridge building contests have unique rules about sanctioned building materials, size limitations or restrictions, types and sizes of weights, etc… Be sure to read and follow all of the rules carefully. You don’t want to get disqualified.
4-3. Look for inspiration.
You can find inspiration for your spaghetti bridge by looking at actual bridges around the world. Bridges are unique feats of engineering, with each one being built to very exact specifications. As such, looking at real life bridges can give you some great ideas to outdo the competition when the time comes.
4-4. Practice.
Each spaghetti bridge building competition is different and, as such, will employ a different system of applying weight to the bridge to make it collapse. It is wise to start preparing early and to use the same type and placement of weights to test the strength of the bridge you will build.
4-5. Be careful when moving your bridge.
While some bridge competitions require that you build your bridge on-site, others may require you to bring an already built bridge to the competition. If this is the case, make sure you have a safe and effective way to move your bridge from point A to point B without breaking or weakening your bridge.
Tips
When determining how much weight the bridge holds, don't forget to include the weight of the container you use to hold the weights. For spaghetti bridge-building contests, the weight of the bridge itself matters, and the winner is the bridge with the highest strength to weight ratio.
To make your bridge even stronger, attach short pieces of spaghetti to the points of the trusses to make small triangles - trusses for the trusses.
Do any gluing on top of wax paper. Wax paper can also be positioned over a graph paper drawing, allowing you to see the design. Normally the right and left, front and back are the same. Use strips of duct tape to temporarily hold items drying.
Warnings
Take care not to let the hot glue cook the spaghetti. Use as little glue as you can to attach the spaghetti pieces. If you use craft glue instead, you must allow enough time for the glue to dry as you construct your bridge.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:07",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Bridge\\n1-1. Design a support structure for your bridge.\\nYou will first need to build or find a structure that simulates the terrain on either side of the bridge. You can build a bridge across two, equally tall tables or build a structure out of wood to place your bridge on. It's usually best to build the structure so that you can hang a container of some type underneath the bridge.\\n1-2. Determine your bridge length.\\nNow that the support structure is in place, you need to measure the distance between the two sides of the support structure to determine the length that your bridge will need to span.\\nIt's a good idea to start with a short distance when building your first spaghetti bridge. Then, slowly increase the length of your bridges as you learn how to build them successfully.\\n1-3. Design a template.\\nDesign your bridge on a sheet of graph paper first. Cover the paper with a clear plastic film, such as plastic wrap, and use it as a template. Lay the spaghetti strands over your drawn design to cut them to the right length and glue them together.\\nDraw a sketch of your bridge on the graph paper first before laying down the clear film covering.\\nThen lay your spaghetti over the lines you have drawn on the graph paper.\\nOnce you have ensured that the spaghetti has been cut to the proper specifications outlined on your graph paper, remove the spaghetti from the clear film covering and carefully glue the pieces together.\\n1-4. Choose your adhesive.\\nThe type of glue you use will make or break your bridge. Regular craft glue is a poor choice, as it is water based, which causes the pasta to soften when the glue is applied, and it takes a long time to dry. Model airplane glue and hot glue from a glue gun are easy to apply, but are slightly more flexible when they dry. This is not ideal for reinforcing the joints of your bridge. Epoxy, although messy, is the ideal solution for maximizing the strength of your bridge. Epoxy dries up firmly and will provide the best support for your bridge joints. Many brands of epoxy dry in five minutes or less.\\nYou can buy epoxy at a home improvement store or online.\\nWhen working with very young children, you can use marshmallows or even popcorn to hold the joints together, rather than glue for fun and safety. This obviously makes for a less sturdy bridge, but the same general principles of engineering can be gleaned from the exercise.\\n1-5. Build your trusses.\\nTrusses are triangle-shaped support beams that attach point-side down to the roadbed of the bridge on either side. Attach the trusses to each other with glue. Trusses distribute the forces of the weight you will add to the bridge. \\nRectangular trusses will work, but will drastically decrease the weight or load your bridge can hold. Triangular trusses are ideal for building a spaghetti bridge.\\n1-6. Create the roadbed.\\nYou can do this by gluing several layers of spaghetti to each other to make a thick, flat roadbed. You may want to leave the strands unglued in some layers so they will naturally move and help redistribute the weight.\\n1-7. Attach the trusses.\\nSecurely attach the trusses you have built to each side of the roadbed and to the trusses on the other side. The finished bridge will have a roadbed on the bottom with trusses rising above on both sides, like walls and a roof.\\n1-8. Weigh your bridge.\\nRather than setting the bridge itself on the scale, set it on something stable like a box and weigh both. Then, subtract the weight of the box. You can also use 2 scales, placing 1 underneath each edge of the bridge, and then add the weights together.\\nWeighing the bridge is optional. This is usually done as an instructive method. It allows a teacher to show the relationship between the bridge's total weight and the weight it can hold.\\n2. Collapsing the Bridge\\n2-1. Set the bridge in place.\\nCarefully position your spaghetti bridge over the support structure you arranged or built. Check that each side of the bridge has the same amount of bridge edge on the support structures to help stabilize it.\\n2-2. Hang a lightweight container under the center of the bridge.\\nYou might use half an envelope or a paper box. The size of the container will necessarily depend on the size of the bridge you have built. Use a string or bent paperclip to attach the container to the center of the bridge.\\nA thin bridge may break immediately after you attach the container, but a thicker, stronger spaghetti bridge will hold.\\nYou can use multiple hanging points to distribute the weight evenly across the bridge.\\nAlternatively, you can place the weight directly on the roadbed of the bridge. However, this will increase the chances of you accidentally collapsing the bridge when placing weights on it, so be very careful.\\n2-3. Acquire weighted objects.\\nAgain, the size and density of the weighted objects will depend on the size of the bridge you built. For smaller bridges, coins will work as weighted objects. For larger bridges, consider using something like bags of sand or, if your bridge is quite large, actual weights from a weight set.\\nMake sure you know the actual weight of the objects you use so that you can accurately determine how much weight you’ve added to the bridge before it collapses.\\n2-4. Add weight.\\nBegin to add weights to the container a little at a time. Take care not to jar the bridge or cause the container to swing. This can be a very nerve-wracking process.\\n2-5. Watch the bridge collapse.\\nEventually, you will have added too much weight for your bridge to hold and it will collapse. After enjoying the bridge’s destruction, determine how much weight the bridge held by calculating the sum of the weights you added to the bridge.\\n2-6. Go back to the drawing board.\\nYou will now want to go through this process again making minor alterations to the materials or adjustments to how you constructed the bridge. The goal here is to see if you can build a stronger bridge capable of holding more weight. Like any good science experiment, a little trial and error will be necessary.\\n3. Strengthening Your Bridge\\n3-1. Select the best building materials.\\nIf you want to make a bridge that can sustain large amounts of weight, you will need to use the best materials. As stated above, epoxy is the strongest bonding agent you can use. Also, you want to make sure you have plenty of pasta on-hand to make the necessary reinforcements to your bridge.\\nConsider the benefits and disadvantages of various types of pasta.Rounded spaghetti noodles may be better for some parts of your bridge while flattened noodles, like linguine, may be better for other parts.\\n3-2. Design a stronger bridge.\\nThe purpose of building a spaghetti bridge is to apply the theoretical principles of engineering to a real-life construction project. As such, how you design the bridge deeply impacts the overall strength of the bridge. Some tips for building a stronger bridge include:\\nUse triangular rather than rectangular trusses.\\nBuild the roadbed with multiple layers of pasta.\\nYou should leave the middle layer of your pasta roadbed unglued. Some flexibility in the pasta helps to redistribute weight across your bridge.\\n3-3. Limit the space your bridge must cover.\\nThe longer the gap a bridge has to span, the harder it will be to redistribute the weight from one area across the entire bridge. So, if it is up to you, making a shorter bridge will help your bridge sustain more weight.\\n3-4. Strike a balance.\\nThere is a relationship between the weight and strength of your bridge. Adding more pasta to your bridge during construction, when properly built, should add strength, but also adds more weight. The heavier your bridge is, the more likely it is that it will collapse when extra weight is applied. So, make sure you account for the weight of your bridge when designing your bridge.\\n4. Entering Your Bridge for Competition\\n4-1. Identify where to compete.\\nA number of schools, school districts, science museums, universities, and engineering-oriented groups hold spaghetti bridge building competitions. Find one in your area and sign up. \\nSome competitions have various categories for different types of bridges. Make sure you identify what type of bridge you want to build for the competition and enter it into the correct category.\\n4-2. Read the rules closely.\\nSpaghetti bridge building contests have unique rules about sanctioned building materials, size limitations or restrictions, types and sizes of weights, etc… Be sure to read and follow all of the rules carefully. You don’t want to get disqualified.\\n4-3. Look for inspiration.\\nYou can find inspiration for your spaghetti bridge by looking at actual bridges around the world. Bridges are unique feats of engineering, with each one being built to very exact specifications. As such, looking at real life bridges can give you some great ideas to outdo the competition when the time comes.\\n4-4. Practice.\\nEach spaghetti bridge building competition is different and, as such, will employ a different system of applying weight to the bridge to make it collapse. It is wise to start preparing early and to use the same type and placement of weights to test the strength of the bridge you will build.\\n4-5. Be careful when moving your bridge.\\nWhile some bridge competitions require that you build your bridge on-site, others may require you to bring an already built bridge to the competition. If this is the case, make sure you have a safe and effective way to move your bridge from point A to point B without breaking or weakening your bridge.\\nTips\\nWhen determining how much weight the bridge holds, don't forget to include the weight of the container you use to hold the weights. For spaghetti bridge-building contests, the weight of the bridge itself matters, and the winner is the bridge with the highest strength to weight ratio.\\nTo make your bridge even stronger, attach short pieces of spaghetti to the points of the trusses to make small triangles - trusses for the trusses.\\nDo any gluing on top of wax paper. Wax paper can also be positioned over a graph paper drawing, allowing you to see the design. Normally the right and left, front and back are the same. Use strips of duct tape to temporarily hold items drying.\\nWarnings\\nTake care not to let the hot glue cook the spaghetti. Use as little glue as you can to attach the spaghetti pieces. If you use craft glue instead, you must allow enough time for the glue to dry as you construct your bridge.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Dry spaghetti is very brittle and breaks easily, but by gluing the strands together to create different shapes, you can make a model bridge that can hold a surprising amount of weight. Students of all ages compete in spaghetti bridge-building contests every year. Part of the fun of building a spaghetti bridge is adding weight to it until it collapses in a shower of spaghetti pieces.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Design a support structure for your bridge.\", \"描述\": \"You will first need to build or find a structure that simulates the terrain on either side of the bridge. You can build a bridge across two, equally tall tables or build a structure out of wood to place your bridge on. It's usually best to build the structure so that you can hang a container of some type underneath the bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine your bridge length.\", \"描述\": \"Now that the support structure is in place, you need to measure the distance between the two sides of the support structure to determine the length that your bridge will need to span.\\nIt's a good idea to start with a short distance when building your first spaghetti bridge. Then, slowly increase the length of your bridges as you learn how to build them successfully.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Design a template.\", \"描述\": \"Design your bridge on a sheet of graph paper first. Cover the paper with a clear plastic film, such as plastic wrap, and use it as a template. Lay the spaghetti strands over your drawn design to cut them to the right length and glue them together.\\nDraw a sketch of your bridge on the graph paper first before laying down the clear film covering.\\nThen lay your spaghetti over the lines you have drawn on the graph paper.\\nOnce you have ensured that the spaghetti has been cut to the proper specifications outlined on your graph paper, remove the spaghetti from the clear film covering and carefully glue the pieces together.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose your adhesive.\", \"描述\": \"The type of glue you use will make or break your bridge. Regular craft glue is a poor choice, as it is water based, which causes the pasta to soften when the glue is applied, and it takes a long time to dry. Model airplane glue and hot glue from a glue gun are easy to apply, but are slightly more flexible when they dry. This is not ideal for reinforcing the joints of your bridge. Epoxy, although messy, is the ideal solution for maximizing the strength of your bridge. Epoxy dries up firmly and will provide the best support for your bridge joints. Many brands of epoxy dry in five minutes or less.\\nYou can buy epoxy at a home improvement store or online.\\nWhen working with very young children, you can use marshmallows or even popcorn to hold the joints together, rather than glue for fun and safety. This obviously makes for a less sturdy bridge, but the same general principles of engineering can be gleaned from the exercise.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build your trusses.\", \"描述\": \"Trusses are triangle-shaped support beams that attach point-side down to the roadbed of the bridge on either side. Attach the trusses to each other with glue. Trusses distribute the forces of the weight you will add to the bridge. \\nRectangular trusses will work, but will drastically decrease the weight or load your bridge can hold. Triangular trusses are ideal for building a spaghetti bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create the roadbed.\", \"描述\": \"You can do this by gluing several layers of spaghetti to each other to make a thick, flat roadbed. You may want to leave the strands unglued in some layers so they will naturally move and help redistribute the weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the trusses.\", \"描述\": \"Securely attach the trusses you have built to each side of the roadbed and to the trusses on the other side. The finished bridge will have a roadbed on the bottom with trusses rising above on both sides, like walls and a roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Weigh your bridge.\", \"描述\": \"Rather than setting the bridge itself on the scale, set it on something stable like a box and weigh both. Then, subtract the weight of the box. You can also use 2 scales, placing 1 underneath each edge of the bridge, and then add the weights together.\\nWeighing the bridge is optional. This is usually done as an instructive method. It allows a teacher to show the relationship between the bridge's total weight and the weight it can hold.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Collapsing the Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set the bridge in place.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully position your spaghetti bridge over the support structure you arranged or built. Check that each side of the bridge has the same amount of bridge edge on the support structures to help stabilize it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hang a lightweight container under the center of the bridge.\", \"描述\": \"You might use half an envelope or a paper box. The size of the container will necessarily depend on the size of the bridge you have built. Use a string or bent paperclip to attach the container to the center of the bridge.\\nA thin bridge may break immediately after you attach the container, but a thicker, stronger spaghetti bridge will hold.\\nYou can use multiple hanging points to distribute the weight evenly across the bridge.\\nAlternatively, you can place the weight directly on the roadbed of the bridge. However, this will increase the chances of you accidentally collapsing the bridge when placing weights on it, so be very careful.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Acquire weighted objects.\", \"描述\": \"Again, the size and density of the weighted objects will depend on the size of the bridge you built. For smaller bridges, coins will work as weighted objects. For larger bridges, consider using something like bags of sand or, if your bridge is quite large, actual weights from a weight set.\\nMake sure you know the actual weight of the objects you use so that you can accurately determine how much weight you’ve added to the bridge before it collapses.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add weight.\", \"描述\": \"Begin to add weights to the container a little at a time. Take care not to jar the bridge or cause the container to swing. This can be a very nerve-wracking process.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Watch the bridge collapse.\", \"描述\": \"Eventually, you will have added too much weight for your bridge to hold and it will collapse. After enjoying the bridge’s destruction, determine how much weight the bridge held by calculating the sum of the weights you added to the bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Go back to the drawing board.\", \"描述\": \"You will now want to go through this process again making minor alterations to the materials or adjustments to how you constructed the bridge. The goal here is to see if you can build a stronger bridge capable of holding more weight. Like any good science experiment, a little trial and error will be necessary.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Strengthening Your Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select the best building materials.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to make a bridge that can sustain large amounts of weight, you will need to use the best materials. As stated above, epoxy is the strongest bonding agent you can use. Also, you want to make sure you have plenty of pasta on-hand to make the necessary reinforcements to your bridge.\\nConsider the benefits and disadvantages of various types of pasta.Rounded spaghetti noodles may be better for some parts of your bridge while flattened noodles, like linguine, may be better for other parts.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Design a stronger bridge.\", \"描述\": \"The purpose of building a spaghetti bridge is to apply the theoretical principles of engineering to a real-life construction project. As such, how you design the bridge deeply impacts the overall strength of the bridge. Some tips for building a stronger bridge include:\\nUse triangular rather than rectangular trusses.\\nBuild the roadbed with multiple layers of pasta.\\nYou should leave the middle layer of your pasta roadbed unglued. Some flexibility in the pasta helps to redistribute weight across your bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Limit the space your bridge must cover.\", \"描述\": \"The longer the gap a bridge has to span, the harder it will be to redistribute the weight from one area across the entire bridge. So, if it is up to you, making a shorter bridge will help your bridge sustain more weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Strike a balance.\", \"描述\": \"There is a relationship between the weight and strength of your bridge. Adding more pasta to your bridge during construction, when properly built, should add strength, but also adds more weight. The heavier your bridge is, the more likely it is that it will collapse when extra weight is applied. So, make sure you account for the weight of your bridge when designing your bridge.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Entering Your Bridge for Competition\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Identify where to compete.\", \"描述\": \"A number of schools, school districts, science museums, universities, and engineering-oriented groups hold spaghetti bridge building competitions. Find one in your area and sign up. \\nSome competitions have various categories for different types of bridges. Make sure you identify what type of bridge you want to build for the competition and enter it into the correct category.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Read the rules closely.\", \"描述\": \"Spaghetti bridge building contests have unique rules about sanctioned building materials, size limitations or restrictions, types and sizes of weights, etc… Be sure to read and follow all of the rules carefully. You don’t want to get disqualified.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look for inspiration.\", \"描述\": \"You can find inspiration for your spaghetti bridge by looking at actual bridges around the world. Bridges are unique feats of engineering, with each one being built to very exact specifications. As such, looking at real life bridges can give you some great ideas to outdo the competition when the time comes.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Practice.\", \"描述\": \"Each spaghetti bridge building competition is different and, as such, will employ a different system of applying weight to the bridge to make it collapse. It is wise to start preparing early and to use the same type and placement of weights to test the strength of the bridge you will build.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Be careful when moving your bridge.\", \"描述\": \"While some bridge competitions require that you build your bridge on-site, others may require you to bring an already built bridge to the competition. If this is the case, make sure you have a safe and effective way to move your bridge from point A to point B without breaking or weakening your bridge.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"When determining how much weight the bridge holds, don't forget to include the weight of the container you use to hold the weights. For spaghetti bridge-building contests, the weight of the bridge itself matters, and the winner is the bridge with the highest strength to weight ratio.\\n\", \"To make your bridge even stronger, attach short pieces of spaghetti to the points of the trusses to make small triangles - trusses for the trusses.\\n\", \"Do any gluing on top of wax paper. Wax paper can also be positioned over a graph paper drawing, allowing you to see the design. Normally the right and left, front and back are the same. Use strips of duct tape to temporarily hold items drying.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Take care not to let the hot glue cook the spaghetti. Use as little glue as you can to attach the spaghetti pieces. If you use craft glue instead, you must allow enough time for the glue to dry as you construct your bridge.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,562 |
How to Build a Spaghetti Tower
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1. Crafting the Squares
1-1. Push 2 strands of dry spaghetti into 1 marshmallow.
Line up the 2 spaghetti strands. Push them evenly into the round side of the marshmallow.
Use full-size marshmallows rather than the miniature kind.
Using 2 strands of spaghetti instead of just 1 will strengthen your tower and help it to eventually stand upright.
Push the spaghetti far enough into the marshmallows so that it feels stable, but not far enough to come through the opposite side. Around halfway will do.
1-2. Make a right angle with 2 more strands of spaghetti.
Line up 2 more spaghetti strands. Push them into another side of the same marshmallow to form a corner.
It might be tricky to push these next spaghetti strands into the same marshmallow. Do it carefully, and try to add the strands just next to where the first strands were pushed in.
1-3. Add a marshmallow to each end of the spaghetti strands.
Push a marshmallow firmly onto each end. Be careful when adding marshmallows to spaghetti that has already been connected, as it can easily break with too much pressure.
Replace any broken strands of spaghetti with new strands.
1-4. Push 2 strands of spaghetti into each new marshmallow.
Create 2 more right angles. Make sure that the strands are lined up well, and are as close to 90° as possible. This will ensure that your tower is sturdy.
Your square so far will look like a rigid “U” shape.
1-5. Use 1 more marshmallow to connect the final ends of the spaghetti strands.
Push the remaining strands of spaghetti into 1 last marshmallow. Do this as carefully as possible to avoid breaking the rest of the square.
You should now have a completed square shape made out of 4 marshmallows and 8 strands of spaghetti.
1-6. Build as many more squares as you like.
The greater the number of squares that you build, the higher that your tower will be. Your initial squares will become the base for your tower.
Start with 9 squares if you are not sure how many to begin with. This will give you good practice in creating a smaller tower.
2. Making the Pyramids
2-1. Place 2 strands of spaghetti into the top of each marshmallow.
Each of the 4 marshmallows in each square needs 2 strands of spaghetti inserted into the top. Align these so that they point straight.
Each square will end up with 8 more spaghetti strands pointing upwards.
2-2. Gather the strands of spaghetti and connect these with a marshmallow.
Grasp the 8 strands of spaghetti that are pointing upwards. Hold them together tightly as you firmly push a marshmallow onto the end.
The marshmallow will connect the strands and hold them together in a point type shape.
2-3. Make more pyramids using the rest of the squares that you made.
Add the spaghetti strands to the tops of the marshmallows. Join these together into a point using a final marshmallow.
If you began with 9 squares, you will end up with 9 pyramids in total.
2-4. Arrange the completed pyramids to create a base for your tower.
Align the pyramids that you just made so that they look like a square or rectangle from above. If you have 9 pyramids, align these to be 3 pyramids across by 3 wide.
Make sure that the base pyramids are close together to ensure that your tower is stable.
2-5. Connect the central marshmallows at the top of the base with spaghetti.
Push spaghetti strands horizontally to make more square shapes on the top of the base. Make sure that these are connected firmly, as they will become the base for the next layer.
Be very careful to avoid leaning or placing pressure on the base pyramids.
2-6. Repeat the process of making pyramids.
Insert spaghetti strands coming from the top of each of the marshmallows. Connect the strands from each square using a central marshmallow.
You will notice your tower beginning to narrow in as it gets taller.
2-7. Continue building the tower until you reach 1 marshmallow point.
Keep adding spaghetti strands horizontally and vertically to make square bases and points. Work as carefully as possible as you make your way up the tower to avoid breaking any pieces.
The bigger your tower, the longer it will take to reach the top.
3. Designing a Competition
3-1. See who can build the best tower in a limited amount of time.
Have all of the supplies ready before you begin. Set the timer, and compare towers at the end!
Around 20 minutes is a good place to start for a competitive spaghetti tower match.
You don’t have to compete with others. Try timing yourself, and see if you can build a better tower each time.
You can judge the towers based on height or stability.
3-2. Compete to see who builds the tallest tower.
Get all of the supplies, and see which group can build the tallest tower before it collapses. You may need to start building the tower on the ground, and stand on a secure chair as it grows!
Have a measuring tape ready so that you can measure the end results.
3-3. Limit the supplies that are available.
Try using just 20 strands of spaghetti and 1 marshmallow for each tower. You will need to break the marshmallow into smaller pieces for this type of competition.
With limited supplies, the design of the towers will need to vary. Get creative, and see how tall and stable you can make a tower with only 1 marshmallow.
Warnings
Don’t attempt to cook or burn the marshmallows to the spaghetti to try to strengthen your tower. It won’t work, and your tower will just end up burnt.[18]
X
Research source
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:07",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Crafting the Squares\\n1-1. Push 2 strands of dry spaghetti into 1 marshmallow.\\nLine up the 2 spaghetti strands. Push them evenly into the round side of the marshmallow.\\nUse full-size marshmallows rather than the miniature kind.\\nUsing 2 strands of spaghetti instead of just 1 will strengthen your tower and help it to eventually stand upright.\\nPush the spaghetti far enough into the marshmallows so that it feels stable, but not far enough to come through the opposite side. Around halfway will do.\\n1-2. Make a right angle with 2 more strands of spaghetti.\\nLine up 2 more spaghetti strands. Push them into another side of the same marshmallow to form a corner.\\nIt might be tricky to push these next spaghetti strands into the same marshmallow. Do it carefully, and try to add the strands just next to where the first strands were pushed in.\\n1-3. Add a marshmallow to each end of the spaghetti strands.\\nPush a marshmallow firmly onto each end. Be careful when adding marshmallows to spaghetti that has already been connected, as it can easily break with too much pressure.\\nReplace any broken strands of spaghetti with new strands.\\n1-4. Push 2 strands of spaghetti into each new marshmallow.\\nCreate 2 more right angles. Make sure that the strands are lined up well, and are as close to 90° as possible. This will ensure that your tower is sturdy.\\nYour square so far will look like a rigid “U” shape.\\n1-5. Use 1 more marshmallow to connect the final ends of the spaghetti strands.\\nPush the remaining strands of spaghetti into 1 last marshmallow. Do this as carefully as possible to avoid breaking the rest of the square.\\nYou should now have a completed square shape made out of 4 marshmallows and 8 strands of spaghetti.\\n1-6. Build as many more squares as you like.\\nThe greater the number of squares that you build, the higher that your tower will be. Your initial squares will become the base for your tower.\\nStart with 9 squares if you are not sure how many to begin with. This will give you good practice in creating a smaller tower.\\n2. Making the Pyramids\\n2-1. Place 2 strands of spaghetti into the top of each marshmallow.\\nEach of the 4 marshmallows in each square needs 2 strands of spaghetti inserted into the top. Align these so that they point straight.\\nEach square will end up with 8 more spaghetti strands pointing upwards.\\n2-2. Gather the strands of spaghetti and connect these with a marshmallow.\\nGrasp the 8 strands of spaghetti that are pointing upwards. Hold them together tightly as you firmly push a marshmallow onto the end.\\nThe marshmallow will connect the strands and hold them together in a point type shape.\\n2-3. Make more pyramids using the rest of the squares that you made.\\nAdd the spaghetti strands to the tops of the marshmallows. Join these together into a point using a final marshmallow.\\nIf you began with 9 squares, you will end up with 9 pyramids in total.\\n2-4. Arrange the completed pyramids to create a base for your tower.\\nAlign the pyramids that you just made so that they look like a square or rectangle from above. If you have 9 pyramids, align these to be 3 pyramids across by 3 wide.\\nMake sure that the base pyramids are close together to ensure that your tower is stable.\\n2-5. Connect the central marshmallows at the top of the base with spaghetti.\\nPush spaghetti strands horizontally to make more square shapes on the top of the base. Make sure that these are connected firmly, as they will become the base for the next layer.\\nBe very careful to avoid leaning or placing pressure on the base pyramids.\\n2-6. Repeat the process of making pyramids.\\nInsert spaghetti strands coming from the top of each of the marshmallows. Connect the strands from each square using a central marshmallow.\\nYou will notice your tower beginning to narrow in as it gets taller.\\n2-7. Continue building the tower until you reach 1 marshmallow point.\\nKeep adding spaghetti strands horizontally and vertically to make square bases and points. Work as carefully as possible as you make your way up the tower to avoid breaking any pieces.\\nThe bigger your tower, the longer it will take to reach the top.\\n3. Designing a Competition\\n3-1. See who can build the best tower in a limited amount of time.\\nHave all of the supplies ready before you begin. Set the timer, and compare towers at the end!\\nAround 20 minutes is a good place to start for a competitive spaghetti tower match.\\nYou don’t have to compete with others. Try timing yourself, and see if you can build a better tower each time.\\nYou can judge the towers based on height or stability.\\n3-2. Compete to see who builds the tallest tower.\\nGet all of the supplies, and see which group can build the tallest tower before it collapses. You may need to start building the tower on the ground, and stand on a secure chair as it grows!\\nHave a measuring tape ready so that you can measure the end results.\\n3-3. Limit the supplies that are available.\\nTry using just 20 strands of spaghetti and 1 marshmallow for each tower. You will need to break the marshmallow into smaller pieces for this type of competition.\\nWith limited supplies, the design of the towers will need to vary. Get creative, and see how tall and stable you can make a tower with only 1 marshmallow.\\nWarnings\\nDon’t attempt to cook or burn the marshmallows to the spaghetti to try to strengthen your tower. It won’t work, and your tower will just end up burnt.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Making a spaghetti tower is a great team-building exercise that is popular among schoolchildren, coworkers, friends, and family. You can also build a spaghetti tower alone for an extra challenge! Spaghetti towers are made using dry spaghetti strands and marshmallows. Make squares with the spaghetti and marshmallows first, before forming these into pyramids. Use these existing pyramids to form new ones, and watch as your tower grows higher! To make building spaghetti towers into a fun, competitive game, try setting a time limit, seeing who can build the tallest tower, or limiting the supplies.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Crafting the Squares\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Push 2 strands of dry spaghetti into 1 marshmallow.\", \"描述\": \"Line up the 2 spaghetti strands. Push them evenly into the round side of the marshmallow.\\nUse full-size marshmallows rather than the miniature kind.\\nUsing 2 strands of spaghetti instead of just 1 will strengthen your tower and help it to eventually stand upright.\\nPush the spaghetti far enough into the marshmallows so that it feels stable, but not far enough to come through the opposite side. Around halfway will do.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a right angle with 2 more strands of spaghetti.\", \"描述\": \"Line up 2 more spaghetti strands. Push them into another side of the same marshmallow to form a corner.\\nIt might be tricky to push these next spaghetti strands into the same marshmallow. Do it carefully, and try to add the strands just next to where the first strands were pushed in.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a marshmallow to each end of the spaghetti strands.\", \"描述\": \"Push a marshmallow firmly onto each end. Be careful when adding marshmallows to spaghetti that has already been connected, as it can easily break with too much pressure.\\nReplace any broken strands of spaghetti with new strands.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Push 2 strands of spaghetti into each new marshmallow.\", \"描述\": \"Create 2 more right angles. Make sure that the strands are lined up well, and are as close to 90° as possible. This will ensure that your tower is sturdy.\\nYour square so far will look like a rigid “U” shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use 1 more marshmallow to connect the final ends of the spaghetti strands.\", \"描述\": \"Push the remaining strands of spaghetti into 1 last marshmallow. Do this as carefully as possible to avoid breaking the rest of the square.\\nYou should now have a completed square shape made out of 4 marshmallows and 8 strands of spaghetti.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build as many more squares as you like.\", \"描述\": \"The greater the number of squares that you build, the higher that your tower will be. Your initial squares will become the base for your tower.\\nStart with 9 squares if you are not sure how many to begin with. This will give you good practice in creating a smaller tower.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making the Pyramids\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place 2 strands of spaghetti into the top of each marshmallow.\", \"描述\": \"Each of the 4 marshmallows in each square needs 2 strands of spaghetti inserted into the top. Align these so that they point straight.\\nEach square will end up with 8 more spaghetti strands pointing upwards.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather the strands of spaghetti and connect these with a marshmallow.\", \"描述\": \"Grasp the 8 strands of spaghetti that are pointing upwards. Hold them together tightly as you firmly push a marshmallow onto the end.\\nThe marshmallow will connect the strands and hold them together in a point type shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make more pyramids using the rest of the squares that you made.\", \"描述\": \"Add the spaghetti strands to the tops of the marshmallows. Join these together into a point using a final marshmallow.\\nIf you began with 9 squares, you will end up with 9 pyramids in total.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Arrange the completed pyramids to create a base for your tower.\", \"描述\": \"Align the pyramids that you just made so that they look like a square or rectangle from above. If you have 9 pyramids, align these to be 3 pyramids across by 3 wide.\\nMake sure that the base pyramids are close together to ensure that your tower is stable.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect the central marshmallows at the top of the base with spaghetti.\", \"描述\": \"Push spaghetti strands horizontally to make more square shapes on the top of the base. Make sure that these are connected firmly, as they will become the base for the next layer.\\nBe very careful to avoid leaning or placing pressure on the base pyramids.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Repeat the process of making pyramids.\", \"描述\": \"Insert spaghetti strands coming from the top of each of the marshmallows. Connect the strands from each square using a central marshmallow.\\nYou will notice your tower beginning to narrow in as it gets taller.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Continue building the tower until you reach 1 marshmallow point.\", \"描述\": \"Keep adding spaghetti strands horizontally and vertically to make square bases and points. Work as carefully as possible as you make your way up the tower to avoid breaking any pieces.\\nThe bigger your tower, the longer it will take to reach the top.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Designing a Competition\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"See who can build the best tower in a limited amount of time.\", \"描述\": \"Have all of the supplies ready before you begin. Set the timer, and compare towers at the end!\\nAround 20 minutes is a good place to start for a competitive spaghetti tower match.\\nYou don’t have to compete with others. Try timing yourself, and see if you can build a better tower each time.\\nYou can judge the towers based on height or stability.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Compete to see who builds the tallest tower.\", \"描述\": \"Get all of the supplies, and see which group can build the tallest tower before it collapses. You may need to start building the tower on the ground, and stand on a secure chair as it grows!\\nHave a measuring tape ready so that you can measure the end results.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Limit the supplies that are available.\", \"描述\": \"Try using just 20 strands of spaghetti and 1 marshmallow for each tower. You will need to break the marshmallow into smaller pieces for this type of competition.\\nWith limited supplies, the design of the towers will need to vary. Get creative, and see how tall and stable you can make a tower with only 1 marshmallow.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Don’t attempt to cook or burn the marshmallows to the spaghetti to try to strengthen your tower. It won’t work, and your tower will just end up burnt.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,563 |
How to Build a Speaker Box
|
1. Steps
1-1. Determine the size of the speaker box.
Reference the speaker’s template to find the speaker’s measurements.The template is included with the rest of the basic speaker information upon purchase. If the template can’t be found, contact the manufacturer for the information or measure the speaker yourself:
Figure the depth (front-to-back dimension) of the speaker box by adding 2 inches (5 cm) to the depth of the speaker.
Use the speaker’s height and length measurements as the box’s internal height and length dimensions.
Multiply the depth, height and length to determine the internal volume of the box.
1-2. Check the internal volume against the manufacturer’s recommended speaker box internal volume.
Adjust the measurements as needed until you reach the recommended range.
1-3. Add the thickness of the wood to your dimensions to figure the box’s external dimensions.
1-4. Measure the height, width and depth of the space available for the speaker box to be sure the box will fit.
Use your measurements to sketch out the speaker box depending on the space you need to fit it into.
1-5. Construct the speaker box.
Trace a pattern onto the MDF (medium density fiberboard) using the exterior box.Include the circular openings needed for the face of the speaker and the connectors. The measurements are found on the speaker’s template. If there is no template, trace the circumference of the face of the speaker on the front piece and a 2-inch (5-cm) hole on each side piece for the connectors.
Use a jigsaw to cut out the pattern pieces.
Cut out the circular openings with a router.
Sand all rough edges.
1-6. Brace the speaker box with 1-inch x 1-inch (2-1/2 cm x 2-1/2 cm) strips of wood (battens).
Cover 60 percent of each interior edge with a batten.
Screw the batten into the MDF.
1-7. Fit the cut pieces together to make sure they match up.
1-8. Pre-drill all holes and bead carpenter’s glue along each joint as you assemble the box.
Use furniture clamps to keep the speaker box aligned.
1-9. Place the speaker in the box and check that it fits.
1-10. Mark the mounting screw holes while the speaker is in the box.
Remove the speaker and pre-drill the mounting screw holes.
Allow the glue to dry.
1-11. Apply silicon caulk over the speaker box’s internal seams and all openings to ensure the box is airtight.
Let the silicon caulk cure for 12 to 24 hours.
1-12. Set up the speaker box.
Hook up the speaker wires.
Cover the back, top and bottom of the speaker box with 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) of poly fill to minimize resonance.
Insert the speaker and run the connectors through their appropriate holes.
Secure the speaker with screws through the mounting holes.
Caulk any openings to ensure the speaker box is airtight.
Allow the caulk to cure for 12 to 24 hours.
Warnings
Don’t construct a speaker box that has walls with equal dimensions. The shape diminishes the speaker’s effectiveness.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:07",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Determine the size of the speaker box.\\nReference the speaker’s template to find the speaker’s measurements.The template is included with the rest of the basic speaker information upon purchase. If the template can’t be found, contact the manufacturer for the information or measure the speaker yourself:\\n\\nFigure the depth (front-to-back dimension) of the speaker box by adding 2 inches (5 cm) to the depth of the speaker.\\nUse the speaker’s height and length measurements as the box’s internal height and length dimensions.\\nMultiply the depth, height and length to determine the internal volume of the box.\\n1-2. Check the internal volume against the manufacturer’s recommended speaker box internal volume.\\nAdjust the measurements as needed until you reach the recommended range.\\n1-3. Add the thickness of the wood to your dimensions to figure the box’s external dimensions.\\n\\n1-4. Measure the height, width and depth of the space available for the speaker box to be sure the box will fit.\\nUse your measurements to sketch out the speaker box depending on the space you need to fit it into.\\n1-5. Construct the speaker box.\\nTrace a pattern onto the MDF (medium density fiberboard) using the exterior box.Include the circular openings needed for the face of the speaker and the connectors. The measurements are found on the speaker’s template. If there is no template, trace the circumference of the face of the speaker on the front piece and a 2-inch (5-cm) hole on each side piece for the connectors.\\nUse a jigsaw to cut out the pattern pieces.\\nCut out the circular openings with a router.\\nSand all rough edges.\\n1-6. Brace the speaker box with 1-inch x 1-inch (2-1/2 cm x 2-1/2 cm) strips of wood (battens).\\nCover 60 percent of each interior edge with a batten.\\nScrew the batten into the MDF.\\n1-7. Fit the cut pieces together to make sure they match up.\\n\\n1-8. Pre-drill all holes and bead carpenter’s glue along each joint as you assemble the box.\\nUse furniture clamps to keep the speaker box aligned.\\n1-9. Place the speaker in the box and check that it fits.\\n\\n1-10. Mark the mounting screw holes while the speaker is in the box.\\nRemove the speaker and pre-drill the mounting screw holes.\\nAllow the glue to dry.\\n1-11. Apply silicon caulk over the speaker box’s internal seams and all openings to ensure the box is airtight.\\nLet the silicon caulk cure for 12 to 24 hours.\\n1-12. Set up the speaker box.\\nHook up the speaker wires.\\nCover the back, top and bottom of the speaker box with 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) of poly fill to minimize resonance.\\nInsert the speaker and run the connectors through their appropriate holes.\\nSecure the speaker with screws through the mounting holes.\\nCaulk any openings to ensure the speaker box is airtight.\\nAllow the caulk to cure for 12 to 24 hours.\\nWarnings\\nDon’t construct a speaker box that has walls with equal dimensions. The shape diminishes the speaker’s effectiveness.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Learning how to build a speaker box allows you to customize the fit and design of the box to match your desired audio quality. The basic two-speaker box designs are sealed and vented. This article details how to build a sealed speaker box, which separates the front and rear sound waves to improve the bass.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the size of the speaker box.\", \"描述\": \"Reference the speaker’s template to find the speaker’s measurements.The template is included with the rest of the basic speaker information upon purchase. If the template can’t be found, contact the manufacturer for the information or measure the speaker yourself:\\n\\nFigure the depth (front-to-back dimension) of the speaker box by adding 2 inches (5 cm) to the depth of the speaker.\\nUse the speaker’s height and length measurements as the box’s internal height and length dimensions.\\nMultiply the depth, height and length to determine the internal volume of the box.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Check the internal volume against the manufacturer’s recommended speaker box internal volume.\", \"描述\": \"Adjust the measurements as needed until you reach the recommended range.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add the thickness of the wood to your dimensions to figure the box’s external dimensions.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure the height, width and depth of the space available for the speaker box to be sure the box will fit.\", \"描述\": \"Use your measurements to sketch out the speaker box depending on the space you need to fit it into.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Construct the speaker box.\", \"描述\": \"Trace a pattern onto the MDF (medium density fiberboard) using the exterior box.Include the circular openings needed for the face of the speaker and the connectors. The measurements are found on the speaker’s template. If there is no template, trace the circumference of the face of the speaker on the front piece and a 2-inch (5-cm) hole on each side piece for the connectors.\\nUse a jigsaw to cut out the pattern pieces.\\nCut out the circular openings with a router.\\nSand all rough edges.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Brace the speaker box with 1-inch x 1-inch (2-1/2 cm x 2-1/2 cm) strips of wood (battens).\", \"描述\": \"Cover 60 percent of each interior edge with a batten.\\nScrew the batten into the MDF.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fit the cut pieces together to make sure they match up.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Pre-drill all holes and bead carpenter’s glue along each joint as you assemble the box.\", \"描述\": \"Use furniture clamps to keep the speaker box aligned.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place the speaker in the box and check that it fits.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Mark the mounting screw holes while the speaker is in the box.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the speaker and pre-drill the mounting screw holes.\\nAllow the glue to dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Apply silicon caulk over the speaker box’s internal seams and all openings to ensure the box is airtight.\", \"描述\": \"Let the silicon caulk cure for 12 to 24 hours.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Set up the speaker box.\", \"描述\": \"Hook up the speaker wires.\\nCover the back, top and bottom of the speaker box with 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) of poly fill to minimize resonance.\\nInsert the speaker and run the connectors through their appropriate holes.\\nSecure the speaker with screws through the mounting holes.\\nCaulk any openings to ensure the speaker box is airtight.\\nAllow the caulk to cure for 12 to 24 hours.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Don’t construct a speaker box that has walls with equal dimensions. The shape diminishes the speaker’s effectiveness.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,564 |
How to Build a Squirrel House
|
1. Constructing the House
1-1. Gather your tools.
This is a basic woodwork project and doesn’t require anything too elaborate. You’ll need a saw (jig-saw if you have one), an electric screwdriver, and screws (3-4 dozen). If you don’t have an electric screwdriver, you could also use a hammer and nails. Screws hold the squirrel house’s design more securely than nails. Keep the following on hand as well:
Measuring tape
Pencil and paper
First aid kit
Sandpaper
1-2. Gather wooden boards.
Scrap lumber will work just fine for this project. Exterior grade plywood could be used, but this material is easier for the squirrels to damage. Two boards should be 12” x 12” or larger to be used as the floor, roof, and overhang. You’ll also need two additional 35” x 6”.
The six is based on the average squirrel size. If you notice larger species such as Red or Grey squirrels, use a wider size wood. Use something between 6” and 10”
You don’t need to follow these exact dimensions if you acquired enough scrap wood.
1-3. Create the front and back panels.
The key to a good squirrel house is for the roof to overhang slightly. To achieve this, the front board should be one inch shorter than the backboard. Use your measuring tape to mark 18” on one board and 17” on another board. Draw legible and straight lines with your pen across the board.
Use your saw and cut along the line in an even fashion. Take your time sawing. A good cut is better than a quick and choppy cut.
Again these are the measurements for this squirrel house. You can make your house smaller, but don’t make it bigger. Squirrels enjoy compact spaces.
1-4. Create your sidewalls.
The sides must be the same width as the front and back panels. The side panels require a more advanced cut. You’ll need to measure 18” on one edge and 17” on the other edge. Each plank's top will be cut into a slanted edge. Use your measuring tape to mark the right measurements.
Draw a line to connect the 18” marker to the 17” marker. Use a ruler to create a straight and even line.
Take your time to create a clean cut with your saw. You should now be able to see the panels align with the front and back walls.
1-5. Create a doorway.
Now you need to create an entrance for the squirrels to use. Take one of the side panels and measure three inches from the 18” side. Use the 3” mark to create a hole that is 3” in diameter. You’re basically removing the pointed edge of a sideboard.
It doesn’t need to be exactly three inches in diameter but should be close. The hole size determines what species can fit into the house. People have reported possums n their “squirrel house,” because the opening was too large.
1-6. Attach the walls.
Start by positioning all the walls in place using your hands. Make sure all the front and rear edges align with the proper sides. Once you’re pleased by the outline, it’s time to attach the walls. Attach everything in the following order:
Position the front wall (17”) with a sidewall. Place the side panel’s edge in front of the front panel’s edge. Insert 4-7 evenly spaced nails or screws to attach the two.
Attach the side panel that is attached from the front wall to the back wall (18"). Again, the nail or screws should pass through the sidewall before going through the rear wall’s edge.
Attach the other sideboard onto the house. For each corner, you should use between 4-7 screws or nails.
If you are using an electric screwdriver, take your time. It is easy to damage the wood if you try to work too quickly.
There should be an even slope from 18" (back wall) to 17" (front wall).
1-7. Connect the flooring.
Use one of the 12” x 12” boards as flooring for the squirrel house. Position the frame created in the previous step on top of the 12” x 12”. Align the 18” wall along the edge of the floorboard. Center the frame and mark where the corners will be on the floor.
Flip the frame to begin attaching the nails and screws. Attach nails or screws into each corner. Use between 3-4 screws or nails for each side.
Be careful to only attach the nails or screws along with the house’s frame.
1-8. Fill the house.
Some builders like to insert a wooden divider into the house with a 3” gap to create two stories. Squirrels like to play in compact spaces. Make it comfortable for the squirrels by adding pillow fluff or the contents of a stuffed animal. Another good bedding material is dried moss found in nature or a craft store.
Measure the inner dimensions to create a floor divider for the house. Cut out a 3” hole as you did with the entrance to the house.
Hold the floor divider and have somebody assist you with attaching it with a nail or screw. The set of helping hands will attach the screw through the exterior wall into the divider.
It’s okay if there are gaps between the floor divider and the walls. This doesn’t need to be as tight as the exterior structure.
1-9. Attach the roof.
Use the extra 12” x 12” as the roof. Align the edge of the 12” x 12” to the backside of the roof (18” wall). You’ll need to hold the wooden board in place as you nail or screw in the roof. There should be an overhang on the front of the house.
2. Installing the Squirrel House
2-1. Scout your yard.
Plan to spend a day watching your yard to witness how active the squirrels are. Take mental notes of certain trees you see multiple squirrels pass through. Pick out one of the trees that you think will hold that house.
To promote squirrel activity, choose a location that is 10 to 30 feet off the ground. The higher the house is, the more likely squirrels will occupy it.
2-2. Create a grip.
You will need two large nails to create a stable grip for the squirrel house. Use a secure and long ladder to reach the desired spot for the house. Have a partner around to spot you for safety measures. Drive the first nail into the tree with a hammer, but leave an inch exposed. Take the second nail and drive that about eight inches parallel to the first nail. Leave an inch of the second nail exposed.
The squirrel house should fit in between the two nails.
2-3. Wrap the squirrel house.
You will tighten the squirrel house to the tree by tightening a thick wire around the house and tree. Make sure you use a strong wire that has tightening abilities. You could also tie the wire together and tighten with pliers, but this may prove dangerous at such a height.
Go to a local hardware store and ask about the thick gauged wire that can be tightened easily. They will have something that will work.
2-4. Mount the squirrel house.
Fit the squirrel house between the two nails previously inserted into the tree. The goal is to have the nails fit the house’s width in a snug manner. Then use the wire from the previous step to secure the squirrel house.
2-5. Add food.
Squirrels are easy to attract once you’ve provided a shelter for them. Squirrels enjoy the same foods that birds like. This is a reason why squirrels invade your bird-feeders. You could use bird food or any of the following:
Fruit (berries)
Sunflower seeds
Nuts
Pet food
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:08",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the House\\n1-1. Gather your tools.\\nThis is a basic woodwork project and doesn’t require anything too elaborate. You’ll need a saw (jig-saw if you have one), an electric screwdriver, and screws (3-4 dozen). If you don’t have an electric screwdriver, you could also use a hammer and nails. Screws hold the squirrel house’s design more securely than nails. Keep the following on hand as well:\\nMeasuring tape\\nPencil and paper\\nFirst aid kit\\nSandpaper\\n1-2. Gather wooden boards.\\nScrap lumber will work just fine for this project. Exterior grade plywood could be used, but this material is easier for the squirrels to damage. Two boards should be 12” x 12” or larger to be used as the floor, roof, and overhang. You’ll also need two additional 35” x 6”.\\nThe six is based on the average squirrel size. If you notice larger species such as Red or Grey squirrels, use a wider size wood. Use something between 6” and 10”\\nYou don’t need to follow these exact dimensions if you acquired enough scrap wood.\\n1-3. Create the front and back panels.\\nThe key to a good squirrel house is for the roof to overhang slightly. To achieve this, the front board should be one inch shorter than the backboard. Use your measuring tape to mark 18” on one board and 17” on another board. Draw legible and straight lines with your pen across the board.\\nUse your saw and cut along the line in an even fashion. Take your time sawing. A good cut is better than a quick and choppy cut.\\nAgain these are the measurements for this squirrel house. You can make your house smaller, but don’t make it bigger. Squirrels enjoy compact spaces.\\n1-4. Create your sidewalls.\\nThe sides must be the same width as the front and back panels. The side panels require a more advanced cut. You’ll need to measure 18” on one edge and 17” on the other edge. Each plank's top will be cut into a slanted edge. Use your measuring tape to mark the right measurements.\\nDraw a line to connect the 18” marker to the 17” marker. Use a ruler to create a straight and even line.\\nTake your time to create a clean cut with your saw. You should now be able to see the panels align with the front and back walls.\\n1-5. Create a doorway.\\nNow you need to create an entrance for the squirrels to use. Take one of the side panels and measure three inches from the 18” side. Use the 3” mark to create a hole that is 3” in diameter. You’re basically removing the pointed edge of a sideboard.\\nIt doesn’t need to be exactly three inches in diameter but should be close. The hole size determines what species can fit into the house. People have reported possums n their “squirrel house,” because the opening was too large.\\n1-6. Attach the walls.\\nStart by positioning all the walls in place using your hands. Make sure all the front and rear edges align with the proper sides. Once you’re pleased by the outline, it’s time to attach the walls. Attach everything in the following order:\\nPosition the front wall (17”) with a sidewall. Place the side panel’s edge in front of the front panel’s edge. Insert 4-7 evenly spaced nails or screws to attach the two.\\nAttach the side panel that is attached from the front wall to the back wall (18\\\"). Again, the nail or screws should pass through the sidewall before going through the rear wall’s edge.\\nAttach the other sideboard onto the house. For each corner, you should use between 4-7 screws or nails.\\nIf you are using an electric screwdriver, take your time. It is easy to damage the wood if you try to work too quickly.\\nThere should be an even slope from 18\\\" (back wall) to 17\\\" (front wall).\\n1-7. Connect the flooring.\\nUse one of the 12” x 12” boards as flooring for the squirrel house. Position the frame created in the previous step on top of the 12” x 12”. Align the 18” wall along the edge of the floorboard. Center the frame and mark where the corners will be on the floor.\\nFlip the frame to begin attaching the nails and screws. Attach nails or screws into each corner. Use between 3-4 screws or nails for each side.\\nBe careful to only attach the nails or screws along with the house’s frame.\\n1-8. Fill the house.\\nSome builders like to insert a wooden divider into the house with a 3” gap to create two stories. Squirrels like to play in compact spaces. Make it comfortable for the squirrels by adding pillow fluff or the contents of a stuffed animal. Another good bedding material is dried moss found in nature or a craft store.\\nMeasure the inner dimensions to create a floor divider for the house. Cut out a 3” hole as you did with the entrance to the house.\\nHold the floor divider and have somebody assist you with attaching it with a nail or screw. The set of helping hands will attach the screw through the exterior wall into the divider.\\nIt’s okay if there are gaps between the floor divider and the walls. This doesn’t need to be as tight as the exterior structure.\\n1-9. Attach the roof.\\nUse the extra 12” x 12” as the roof. Align the edge of the 12” x 12” to the backside of the roof (18” wall). You’ll need to hold the wooden board in place as you nail or screw in the roof. There should be an overhang on the front of the house.\\n2. Installing the Squirrel House\\n2-1. Scout your yard.\\nPlan to spend a day watching your yard to witness how active the squirrels are. Take mental notes of certain trees you see multiple squirrels pass through. Pick out one of the trees that you think will hold that house.\\nTo promote squirrel activity, choose a location that is 10 to 30 feet off the ground. The higher the house is, the more likely squirrels will occupy it.\\n2-2. Create a grip.\\nYou will need two large nails to create a stable grip for the squirrel house. Use a secure and long ladder to reach the desired spot for the house. Have a partner around to spot you for safety measures. Drive the first nail into the tree with a hammer, but leave an inch exposed. Take the second nail and drive that about eight inches parallel to the first nail. Leave an inch of the second nail exposed.\\nThe squirrel house should fit in between the two nails.\\n2-3. Wrap the squirrel house.\\nYou will tighten the squirrel house to the tree by tightening a thick wire around the house and tree. Make sure you use a strong wire that has tightening abilities. You could also tie the wire together and tighten with pliers, but this may prove dangerous at such a height.\\nGo to a local hardware store and ask about the thick gauged wire that can be tightened easily. They will have something that will work.\\n2-4. Mount the squirrel house.\\nFit the squirrel house between the two nails previously inserted into the tree. The goal is to have the nails fit the house’s width in a snug manner. Then use the wire from the previous step to secure the squirrel house.\\n2-5. Add food.\\nSquirrels are easy to attract once you’ve provided a shelter for them. Squirrels enjoy the same foods that birds like. This is a reason why squirrels invade your bird-feeders. You could use bird food or any of the following:\\nFruit (berries)\\nSunflower seeds\\nNuts\\nPet food\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Many homeowners and garden enthusiasts do not appreciate squirrels. One way to protect your garden or your birdhouse is to provide a sanctioned area for squirrels. A squirrel house, built properly, will encourage squirrels to stay in their area and out of yours. A squirrel house, like a birdhouse, is used to feed and shelter squirrels.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your tools.\", \"描述\": \"This is a basic woodwork project and doesn’t require anything too elaborate. You’ll need a saw (jig-saw if you have one), an electric screwdriver, and screws (3-4 dozen). If you don’t have an electric screwdriver, you could also use a hammer and nails. Screws hold the squirrel house’s design more securely than nails. Keep the following on hand as well:\\nMeasuring tape\\nPencil and paper\\nFirst aid kit\\nSandpaper\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather wooden boards.\", \"描述\": \"Scrap lumber will work just fine for this project. Exterior grade plywood could be used, but this material is easier for the squirrels to damage. Two boards should be 12” x 12” or larger to be used as the floor, roof, and overhang. You’ll also need two additional 35” x 6”.\\nThe six is based on the average squirrel size. If you notice larger species such as Red or Grey squirrels, use a wider size wood. Use something between 6” and 10”\\nYou don’t need to follow these exact dimensions if you acquired enough scrap wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create the front and back panels.\", \"描述\": \"The key to a good squirrel house is for the roof to overhang slightly. To achieve this, the front board should be one inch shorter than the backboard. Use your measuring tape to mark 18” on one board and 17” on another board. Draw legible and straight lines with your pen across the board.\\nUse your saw and cut along the line in an even fashion. Take your time sawing. A good cut is better than a quick and choppy cut.\\nAgain these are the measurements for this squirrel house. You can make your house smaller, but don’t make it bigger. Squirrels enjoy compact spaces.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create your sidewalls.\", \"描述\": \"The sides must be the same width as the front and back panels. The side panels require a more advanced cut. You’ll need to measure 18” on one edge and 17” on the other edge. Each plank's top will be cut into a slanted edge. Use your measuring tape to mark the right measurements.\\nDraw a line to connect the 18” marker to the 17” marker. Use a ruler to create a straight and even line.\\nTake your time to create a clean cut with your saw. You should now be able to see the panels align with the front and back walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create a doorway.\", \"描述\": \"Now you need to create an entrance for the squirrels to use. Take one of the side panels and measure three inches from the 18” side. Use the 3” mark to create a hole that is 3” in diameter. You’re basically removing the pointed edge of a sideboard.\\nIt doesn’t need to be exactly three inches in diameter but should be close. The hole size determines what species can fit into the house. People have reported possums n their “squirrel house,” because the opening was too large.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Start by positioning all the walls in place using your hands. Make sure all the front and rear edges align with the proper sides. Once you’re pleased by the outline, it’s time to attach the walls. Attach everything in the following order:\\nPosition the front wall (17”) with a sidewall. Place the side panel’s edge in front of the front panel’s edge. Insert 4-7 evenly spaced nails or screws to attach the two.\\nAttach the side panel that is attached from the front wall to the back wall (18\\\"). Again, the nail or screws should pass through the sidewall before going through the rear wall’s edge.\\nAttach the other sideboard onto the house. For each corner, you should use between 4-7 screws or nails.\\nIf you are using an electric screwdriver, take your time. It is easy to damage the wood if you try to work too quickly.\\nThere should be an even slope from 18\\\" (back wall) to 17\\\" (front wall).\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Connect the flooring.\", \"描述\": \"Use one of the 12” x 12” boards as flooring for the squirrel house. Position the frame created in the previous step on top of the 12” x 12”. Align the 18” wall along the edge of the floorboard. Center the frame and mark where the corners will be on the floor.\\nFlip the frame to begin attaching the nails and screws. Attach nails or screws into each corner. Use between 3-4 screws or nails for each side.\\nBe careful to only attach the nails or screws along with the house’s frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Fill the house.\", \"描述\": \"Some builders like to insert a wooden divider into the house with a 3” gap to create two stories. Squirrels like to play in compact spaces. Make it comfortable for the squirrels by adding pillow fluff or the contents of a stuffed animal. Another good bedding material is dried moss found in nature or a craft store.\\nMeasure the inner dimensions to create a floor divider for the house. Cut out a 3” hole as you did with the entrance to the house.\\nHold the floor divider and have somebody assist you with attaching it with a nail or screw. The set of helping hands will attach the screw through the exterior wall into the divider.\\nIt’s okay if there are gaps between the floor divider and the walls. This doesn’t need to be as tight as the exterior structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Attach the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Use the extra 12” x 12” as the roof. Align the edge of the 12” x 12” to the backside of the roof (18” wall). You’ll need to hold the wooden board in place as you nail or screw in the roof. There should be an overhang on the front of the house.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Installing the Squirrel House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Scout your yard.\", \"描述\": \"Plan to spend a day watching your yard to witness how active the squirrels are. Take mental notes of certain trees you see multiple squirrels pass through. Pick out one of the trees that you think will hold that house.\\nTo promote squirrel activity, choose a location that is 10 to 30 feet off the ground. The higher the house is, the more likely squirrels will occupy it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a grip.\", \"描述\": \"You will need two large nails to create a stable grip for the squirrel house. Use a secure and long ladder to reach the desired spot for the house. Have a partner around to spot you for safety measures. Drive the first nail into the tree with a hammer, but leave an inch exposed. Take the second nail and drive that about eight inches parallel to the first nail. Leave an inch of the second nail exposed.\\nThe squirrel house should fit in between the two nails.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wrap the squirrel house.\", \"描述\": \"You will tighten the squirrel house to the tree by tightening a thick wire around the house and tree. Make sure you use a strong wire that has tightening abilities. You could also tie the wire together and tighten with pliers, but this may prove dangerous at such a height.\\nGo to a local hardware store and ask about the thick gauged wire that can be tightened easily. They will have something that will work.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mount the squirrel house.\", \"描述\": \"Fit the squirrel house between the two nails previously inserted into the tree. The goal is to have the nails fit the house’s width in a snug manner. Then use the wire from the previous step to secure the squirrel house.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add food.\", \"描述\": \"Squirrels are easy to attract once you’ve provided a shelter for them. Squirrels enjoy the same foods that birds like. This is a reason why squirrels invade your bird-feeders. You could use bird food or any of the following:\\nFruit (berries)\\nSunflower seeds\\nNuts\\nPet food\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,565 |
How to Build a Stage
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1. Preparing for the Build
1-1. Gather the tools you will need to build your stage.
Take out the tools that you will use in the construction of your stage. If you don’t own any of the tools you need, ask friends to borrow tools, or you can rent tools from many home improvement stores.
Drill
Circular Saw
Pliers
Socket ratchet wrench
Screwdriver
Measuring Tape
Pencil
1-2. Purchase quality lumber.
To construct your stage you will need to buy wood that will provide the structure of your stage. Look for lumber that is straight and free from knots. Pressure treated lumber is best if your stage will be resting on concrete or placed outside. For each individual platform you will need:
6 – 8 foot 2x4’s
1 – 8’x4’ sheet of 3/4 inch plywood
12 – 3.5 inch hex bolts
24 washers
12 nuts
26 - 1 ½” wood screws
24 - 3” wood screws
1-3. Cut the 2x4s to the proper length with a circular saw.
You will need to cut several different lengths of 2x4s to form the supports of your stage platform. To avoid mistakes and wasted wood, remember this rule of carpentry: measure twice, cut once.
From two 8’ pieces of 2x4, cut 3 lengths of wood to 3’9” (45 inches).
You will have 4’3” of wood left from one 2x4, cut it into two 2’ pieces. (Discard the remaining 3”.)
Use a new 8’ 2x4 to cut four 2’ lengths of wood.
From the fourth 2x4 cut six 1’ pieces at a 45º angle on each side. Cut the angles on either end toward each other. The long side of the board will measure 12” while the short side accounting for the angles will be approximately 5 ½”. The angled boards will be used to brace the legs.
The other two 2x4s will be used to make the frame. Don't cut these.
1-4. Cut additional sections of wood to build more platforms.
If you need to build a stage that is bigger than 4’x8’ you will need to create multiple platforms. Cut all of your wood at once to save time in construction.
2. Constructing the Frame
2-1. Lay out the frame for your stage platform.
Lay the 3’9” pieces of 2x4s parallel to each other with approximately 4 feet (1.2 m) between each piece. Arrange two 8 foot (2.4 m) pieces of 2x4s at the top and bottom of the 3’9” sections to create a frame.
The wood should form a rectangle with one 3’9” section separating the rectangle into two squares.
2-2. Secure the 2x4s together using wood screws.
Drill a pilot hole to prevent your wood from splitting. Use two screws at each joint to fasten the pieces of wood together.
Attach two 3’9” pieces of wood between the ends of the two 8’ pieces of wood.
The 8’ 2x4 will be on the outside of the 2 shorter pieces.
The shorter pieces of 2x4 will be between the 8’ pieces.
The measurement from the outside edge to the opposite outside edge is 48”.
Place the third 3’9” piece of 2x4 in the middle to support the center of the platform. Center the wood 48” from the end of the 8’ 2x4.
2-3. Connect the legs to your platform.
The 2’ sections of wood that were cut will serve as the legs. Hold or clamp the legs in place to drill a guide hole for a bolt. Drill two holes for each leg all the way through the leg and the frame.
Place one leg at each corner of the frame.
Attach the legs to the 8’ piece of 2x4 not the shorter cross beams.
Slide a washer on the 3” bolt and insert it into the holes. Place another washer on the other end of the bolt and fasten it to the wood with a nut.
Tighten the bolts using a socket wrench while holding the nut with the pliers.
2-4. Brace the legs.
The 2x4s cut with the 45º angle will act as a brace f or the legs. One side of the angle cut 2x4 will be against the leg, and the other side will be flush with the top of the platform.
Drill pilot holes from the angle cut 2x4 into the leg.
Drill pilot holes in the side of the angle cut 2x4 into the beam of the stage frame.
Fasten the brace to the legs and frame using 3” wood screws.
2-5. Fasten the stage platform to the frame.
Turn the platform over on its legs. Place a sheet of plywood on the frame. Attach the plywood to the frame using 1 ½” wood screws.
Use a drill with a screwdriver bit to drive the screws into the wood.
Place a screw around the perimeter of the wood every 16 inches.
Insert two screws in the center of the plywood into the 2x4 cross beam of the frame.
2-6. Build multiple platforms to create a larger performing area.
You can arrange multiple 4X8 sections of stage to create a larger stage for your performance.
3. Finishing the Stage
3-1. Prepare the wood for painting.
Sand the edges of your wood and the surface of the plywood with a 200 grit sandpaper. Smooth the edges of the wood and surface of the plywood with the sandpaper.
3-2. Paint the wood black.
Prime the wood with an oil based primer to seal the wood. Paint the surface of the stage and frame with black latex paint. Giving your stage a coat of black paint will help protect the wood.
3-3. Configure the sections of stage you built together.
Line up the separate stage sections edge to edge. Arrange four sections to create a stage that measures 8 feet (2.4 m) by 16 feet (4.9 m).
3-4. Wrap the stage with black cloth to hide the legs.
Give your stage a professional finish by covering the bottom of the stage with black fabric.
Tips
Check to make sure the bolts attaching your legs are secure each time you use the stage.
Remove the bolts connecting the legs for easy storage. Label the position of each leg prior to removing it.
You can create a platform without legs by following the same method and not attaching legs.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:08",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing for the Build\\n1-1. Gather the tools you will need to build your stage.\\nTake out the tools that you will use in the construction of your stage. If you don’t own any of the tools you need, ask friends to borrow tools, or you can rent tools from many home improvement stores.\\nDrill\\nCircular Saw\\nPliers\\nSocket ratchet wrench\\nScrewdriver\\nMeasuring Tape\\nPencil\\n1-2. Purchase quality lumber.\\nTo construct your stage you will need to buy wood that will provide the structure of your stage. Look for lumber that is straight and free from knots. Pressure treated lumber is best if your stage will be resting on concrete or placed outside. For each individual platform you will need:\\n6 – 8 foot 2x4’s\\n1 – 8’x4’ sheet of 3/4 inch plywood\\n12 – 3.5 inch hex bolts\\n24 washers\\n12 nuts\\n26 - 1 ½” wood screws\\n24 - 3” wood screws\\n1-3. Cut the 2x4s to the proper length with a circular saw.\\nYou will need to cut several different lengths of 2x4s to form the supports of your stage platform. To avoid mistakes and wasted wood, remember this rule of carpentry: measure twice, cut once.\\nFrom two 8’ pieces of 2x4, cut 3 lengths of wood to 3’9” (45 inches).\\nYou will have 4’3” of wood left from one 2x4, cut it into two 2’ pieces. (Discard the remaining 3”.)\\nUse a new 8’ 2x4 to cut four 2’ lengths of wood.\\nFrom the fourth 2x4 cut six 1’ pieces at a 45º angle on each side. Cut the angles on either end toward each other. The long side of the board will measure 12” while the short side accounting for the angles will be approximately 5 ½”. The angled boards will be used to brace the legs.\\nThe other two 2x4s will be used to make the frame. Don't cut these.\\n1-4. Cut additional sections of wood to build more platforms.\\nIf you need to build a stage that is bigger than 4’x8’ you will need to create multiple platforms. Cut all of your wood at once to save time in construction.\\n2. Constructing the Frame\\n2-1. Lay out the frame for your stage platform.\\nLay the 3’9” pieces of 2x4s parallel to each other with approximately 4 feet (1.2 m) between each piece. Arrange two 8 foot (2.4 m) pieces of 2x4s at the top and bottom of the 3’9” sections to create a frame.\\nThe wood should form a rectangle with one 3’9” section separating the rectangle into two squares.\\n2-2. Secure the 2x4s together using wood screws.\\nDrill a pilot hole to prevent your wood from splitting. Use two screws at each joint to fasten the pieces of wood together.\\nAttach two 3’9” pieces of wood between the ends of the two 8’ pieces of wood.\\nThe 8’ 2x4 will be on the outside of the 2 shorter pieces.\\nThe shorter pieces of 2x4 will be between the 8’ pieces.\\nThe measurement from the outside edge to the opposite outside edge is 48”.\\nPlace the third 3’9” piece of 2x4 in the middle to support the center of the platform. Center the wood 48” from the end of the 8’ 2x4.\\n2-3. Connect the legs to your platform.\\nThe 2’ sections of wood that were cut will serve as the legs. Hold or clamp the legs in place to drill a guide hole for a bolt. Drill two holes for each leg all the way through the leg and the frame.\\nPlace one leg at each corner of the frame.\\nAttach the legs to the 8’ piece of 2x4 not the shorter cross beams.\\nSlide a washer on the 3” bolt and insert it into the holes. Place another washer on the other end of the bolt and fasten it to the wood with a nut.\\nTighten the bolts using a socket wrench while holding the nut with the pliers.\\n2-4. Brace the legs.\\nThe 2x4s cut with the 45º angle will act as a brace f or the legs. One side of the angle cut 2x4 will be against the leg, and the other side will be flush with the top of the platform.\\nDrill pilot holes from the angle cut 2x4 into the leg.\\nDrill pilot holes in the side of the angle cut 2x4 into the beam of the stage frame.\\nFasten the brace to the legs and frame using 3” wood screws.\\n2-5. Fasten the stage platform to the frame.\\nTurn the platform over on its legs. Place a sheet of plywood on the frame. Attach the plywood to the frame using 1 ½” wood screws.\\nUse a drill with a screwdriver bit to drive the screws into the wood.\\nPlace a screw around the perimeter of the wood every 16 inches.\\nInsert two screws in the center of the plywood into the 2x4 cross beam of the frame.\\n2-6. Build multiple platforms to create a larger performing area.\\nYou can arrange multiple 4X8 sections of stage to create a larger stage for your performance.\\n3. Finishing the Stage\\n3-1. Prepare the wood for painting.\\nSand the edges of your wood and the surface of the plywood with a 200 grit sandpaper. Smooth the edges of the wood and surface of the plywood with the sandpaper.\\n3-2. Paint the wood black.\\nPrime the wood with an oil based primer to seal the wood. Paint the surface of the stage and frame with black latex paint. Giving your stage a coat of black paint will help protect the wood.\\n3-3. Configure the sections of stage you built together.\\nLine up the separate stage sections edge to edge. Arrange four sections to create a stage that measures 8 feet (2.4 m) by 16 feet (4.9 m).\\n3-4. Wrap the stage with black cloth to hide the legs.\\nGive your stage a professional finish by covering the bottom of the stage with black fabric.\\nTips\\nCheck to make sure the bolts attaching your legs are secure each time you use the stage.\\nRemove the bolts connecting the legs for easy storage. Label the position of each leg prior to removing it.\\nYou can create a platform without legs by following the same method and not attaching legs.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a stage can provide a great addition to a playroom, or provide an elevated platform for a performance. By combining multiple stage platforms, you can build a stage in any shape or size you desire. Using a few basic tools and some lumber from your local home improvement store, it is possible to create a sturdy stage that will last for years.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing for the Build\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the tools you will need to build your stage.\", \"描述\": \"Take out the tools that you will use in the construction of your stage. If you don’t own any of the tools you need, ask friends to borrow tools, or you can rent tools from many home improvement stores.\\nDrill\\nCircular Saw\\nPliers\\nSocket ratchet wrench\\nScrewdriver\\nMeasuring Tape\\nPencil\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase quality lumber.\", \"描述\": \"To construct your stage you will need to buy wood that will provide the structure of your stage. Look for lumber that is straight and free from knots. Pressure treated lumber is best if your stage will be resting on concrete or placed outside. For each individual platform you will need:\\n6 – 8 foot 2x4’s\\n1 – 8’x4’ sheet of 3/4 inch plywood\\n12 – 3.5 inch hex bolts\\n24 washers\\n12 nuts\\n26 - 1 ½” wood screws\\n24 - 3” wood screws\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the 2x4s to the proper length with a circular saw.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to cut several different lengths of 2x4s to form the supports of your stage platform. To avoid mistakes and wasted wood, remember this rule of carpentry: measure twice, cut once.\\nFrom two 8’ pieces of 2x4, cut 3 lengths of wood to 3’9” (45 inches).\\nYou will have 4’3” of wood left from one 2x4, cut it into two 2’ pieces. (Discard the remaining 3”.)\\nUse a new 8’ 2x4 to cut four 2’ lengths of wood.\\nFrom the fourth 2x4 cut six 1’ pieces at a 45º angle on each side. Cut the angles on either end toward each other. The long side of the board will measure 12” while the short side accounting for the angles will be approximately 5 ½”. The angled boards will be used to brace the legs.\\nThe other two 2x4s will be used to make the frame. Don't cut these.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut additional sections of wood to build more platforms.\", \"描述\": \"If you need to build a stage that is bigger than 4’x8’ you will need to create multiple platforms. Cut all of your wood at once to save time in construction.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out the frame for your stage platform.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the 3’9” pieces of 2x4s parallel to each other with approximately 4 feet (1.2 m) between each piece. Arrange two 8 foot (2.4 m) pieces of 2x4s at the top and bottom of the 3’9” sections to create a frame.\\nThe wood should form a rectangle with one 3’9” section separating the rectangle into two squares.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Secure the 2x4s together using wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a pilot hole to prevent your wood from splitting. Use two screws at each joint to fasten the pieces of wood together.\\nAttach two 3’9” pieces of wood between the ends of the two 8’ pieces of wood.\\nThe 8’ 2x4 will be on the outside of the 2 shorter pieces.\\nThe shorter pieces of 2x4 will be between the 8’ pieces.\\nThe measurement from the outside edge to the opposite outside edge is 48”.\\nPlace the third 3’9” piece of 2x4 in the middle to support the center of the platform. Center the wood 48” from the end of the 8’ 2x4.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the legs to your platform.\", \"描述\": \"The 2’ sections of wood that were cut will serve as the legs. Hold or clamp the legs in place to drill a guide hole for a bolt. Drill two holes for each leg all the way through the leg and the frame.\\nPlace one leg at each corner of the frame.\\nAttach the legs to the 8’ piece of 2x4 not the shorter cross beams.\\nSlide a washer on the 3” bolt and insert it into the holes. Place another washer on the other end of the bolt and fasten it to the wood with a nut.\\nTighten the bolts using a socket wrench while holding the nut with the pliers.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Brace the legs.\", \"描述\": \"The 2x4s cut with the 45º angle will act as a brace f or the legs. One side of the angle cut 2x4 will be against the leg, and the other side will be flush with the top of the platform.\\nDrill pilot holes from the angle cut 2x4 into the leg.\\nDrill pilot holes in the side of the angle cut 2x4 into the beam of the stage frame.\\nFasten the brace to the legs and frame using 3” wood screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fasten the stage platform to the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the platform over on its legs. Place a sheet of plywood on the frame. Attach the plywood to the frame using 1 ½” wood screws.\\nUse a drill with a screwdriver bit to drive the screws into the wood.\\nPlace a screw around the perimeter of the wood every 16 inches.\\nInsert two screws in the center of the plywood into the 2x4 cross beam of the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build multiple platforms to create a larger performing area.\", \"描述\": \"You can arrange multiple 4X8 sections of stage to create a larger stage for your performance.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Stage\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare the wood for painting.\", \"描述\": \"Sand the edges of your wood and the surface of the plywood with a 200 grit sandpaper. Smooth the edges of the wood and surface of the plywood with the sandpaper.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint the wood black.\", \"描述\": \"Prime the wood with an oil based primer to seal the wood. Paint the surface of the stage and frame with black latex paint. Giving your stage a coat of black paint will help protect the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Configure the sections of stage you built together.\", \"描述\": \"Line up the separate stage sections edge to edge. Arrange four sections to create a stage that measures 8 feet (2.4 m) by 16 feet (4.9 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wrap the stage with black cloth to hide the legs.\", \"描述\": \"Give your stage a professional finish by covering the bottom of the stage with black fabric.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Check to make sure the bolts attaching your legs are secure each time you use the stage.\\n\", \"Remove the bolts connecting the legs for easy storage. Label the position of each leg prior to removing it.\\n\", \"You can create a platform without legs by following the same method and not attaching legs.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,566 |
How to Build a Still
|
1. Building a Stove Still
1-1. Get your materials.
You will need a variety of materials, most of which you can get at your local hardware store. Bending copper tubing is involved, so if you really want to make your life easier, you can get a tool which helps you bend tubes (found in the plumbing department of your local hardware store). The materials you'll really need are:
You'll need a kettle or a pressure cooker (preferably copper, or stainless steel, absolutely never aluminum or lead)
A cork or rubber stopper which will fit the opening of your kettle or pressure cooker
~8mm copper tubing (amount will depend on set up, 10-20 ft is a good amount)
A very large thermos/small watercooler or a plastic bucket (if you're cheap)
Tube couplings (maybe)
A thermometer
A good drill
Some silicon or Sugru
1-2. Make the stopper.
Drill two holes in your rubber or cork, one for the copper tube and one for the thermometer. These holes should be very slightly smaller than the tube and thermometer, to create a tight fit. Make sure the stopper you use is generally cut to tightly fit the opening of your kettle or pressure cooker.
1-3. Prepare the copper coil.
You will need a copper coil to condense the vapor coming from the pot. Take your 8mm copper tubing and shape it into a coil towards one end. You will need a long straight section and a short (at least 6") straight section on each side of the coil. To bend the coil, you can simply bend it around an object or you can use tools designed for bending tube. The coil should be small enough to fit in the thermos or watercooler, with about 1" of space on either side.
These copper coils tend to kink very easily. To avoid this, you can block the tube at one end and fill the tube with salt or sugar (never use sand). Use a funnel and make sure to shake the tube as you fill it to make sure that it fills evenly.
1-4. Make your condenser.
The watercooler will be your condenser. Drill a hole on the side at the bottom, where the short section of copper tube will come out and deposit your distilled product. Then, drill a hole at the top on the lid. This is where the long section of tube will come out.
1-5. Place the coil in the condenser.
Put the copper tubing in the condenser, threading the short end through the hole at the bottom. Once enough of the short end is coming out of the condenser, seal the edges of the hole with silicon or other material, like Sugru or caulk. Then, thread the long straight section of the tube through the hole at the top.
If you want it to be easier to get the lid on and off, cut the tube a few inches after it comes out the hole on the top. Have a separate section which spans the distance and goes into the kettle. Connect the two with couplings, which can be undone as necessary.
Make sure you unplug the tube if you did so to fill it with salt. You will also want to empty the tube and rinse out the salt before doing this step, although, it can also be done afterwards, with a greater amount of difficulty.
1-6. Connect the tube to the pot.
Connect the long portion of the tube to the kettle or pressure cooker, by inserting the other end of the tube into the kettle. It should be inserted only enough to reach inside the kettle, not be submerged in the liquid.
1-7. Insert the thermometer.
Insert the thermometer into the appropriate hole. Make sure it is place deep enough that the end will be submerged but that it will not touch the bottom or the sides of the pot.
1-8. Use the still correctly.
Fill the condenser with ice, water, and rock salt. Make sure you use this still on an electric stove, as open flames can cause problems. Do not heat the pot once everything has boiled away, and generally be careful as pressure can build up if you have done something incorrectly. If distilling alcohol, don't drink anything which comes out when the temperature reads below 173 F or you will be treated to the best in beverages that make you blind.
2. Build a Large Solar Still
2-1. Gather your materials.
You will need a container for the distilled water, a plastic sheet and a shovel. You may also want some plastic tubing.
2-2. Dig a hole.
Dig a hole about as large as the plastic sheet and deep enough so that when you weigh the center of the sheet down, there will be several inches between the bottom of the sheet and the bottom of the hole.
This is the sort of still that would be good if you actually have to distill your drinking water. If you get stranded on a desert island, this is your best option.
2-3. Insert your container.
Set your drinking container in the center of the hole and partially bury it to keep it from falling over. Insert one end of the plastic tubing into the container and lay the other end well outside the hole. The goal is to keep the tubing clean and secure so it doesn't fall back into the hole.
2-4. Add plant material.
Line the hole with cactus, leaves or other living plant parts if they are available. Placing plants in the hole isn't necessary, but will help your still produce more water.
2-5. Cover your hole.
Cover the hole with a plastic sheet use rocks to weigh down the corners.
2-6. Add a weight.
Carefully place a rock in the center of the plastic sheet so it slopes downward at an angle of about 45 degrees; the lowest point should be directly over the container in the hole, but not touching it.
2-7. Seal the edges.
Cover all edges of the plastic sheet with dirt or sand to keep water vapor from escaping. Take care not to cover the plastic tubing.
2-8. Wait for moisture to collect.
Wait two or three hours for moisture to collect on the plastic sheet and run down the sides into the container.
2-9. Drink!
Drink the water through the plastic tubing. You can disassemble the still and drink directly from the container, but you will have to build the still again when you're through; in the meantime, any water vapor on the sheet will evaporate.
3. Build a Small Solar Still
3-1. Get a fairly deep, large bowl.
This bowl can be plastic, aluminum, or steel, but it should not be made of lead. Put this bowl on a sunny surface outside.
3-2. Put a cup or small bowel in the larger bowl.
The cup or bowl should be shorter than the edges of the large bowl.
3-3. Fill the large bowl with water.
Fill the large bowl with water but do not go over the edge of the small bowel or cup.
3-4. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.
Cover the bowl very tightly with plastic wrap. Use tape or rubber bands to ensure a tight seal.
3-5. Place a weight at the center of the plastic.
This should be right over your cup or bowl and should angle the plastic down. Make sure the plastic does not touch the cup, though. A good weight to use would be a rock.
3-6. Wait for your water.
The sun will evaporate the water in the large bowl, causing the water vapor to rise and condense on the plastic. Since the plastic is weighted and angled, the condensation will roll down into your cup. Mmmm! Clean water!
Tips
If purifying water using the stove still, try to use glass tubing instead of copper. This makes the purest water!
Warnings
Be sure to supervise a stove-top still. If you don't turn the stove off as soon as the water is completely boiled out of the pot, you can damage the pot, the glass and possibly the bowl.
Don’t ever use an alcoholic still indoors, and especially not if you’re using a propane burner. Instead, use a single electric burner or propane burner outside in a well ventilated area. When you use stills indoors the alcohol vapors can build up and ignite, which can cause a very large fire, especially if you aren’t prepared with the correct class fire extinguisher. Seriously people, don’t do it, this is a major fire hazard since alcohol vapors are extremely flammable and explosive under the right conditions.
Don't seal the pot on the stove too tightly. Using a weight in a bowl will prevent too much steam from escaping but also keeps pressure inside the pot from building up. Seal your pot too tightly, and it may explode.
Make sure your condenser is dripping well away from your burner.
Very high proof alcohol burns with an invisible flame, so be wary. These flames can melt your drip pan and turn a peaceful distilling process into a fiery inferno of death in less than the blink of an eye. For this reason, plastic drip pans are a bad choice, glass is better but not best because it will shatter if heated too fast or unevenly, metal is best. This is also why small neck drip pans are always a good idea, because they limit the airflow, and can contain a fire longer (but still only temporarily) or at least make them much easier to put out if noticed.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:08",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Stove Still\\n1-1. Get your materials.\\nYou will need a variety of materials, most of which you can get at your local hardware store. Bending copper tubing is involved, so if you really want to make your life easier, you can get a tool which helps you bend tubes (found in the plumbing department of your local hardware store). The materials you'll really need are:\\nYou'll need a kettle or a pressure cooker (preferably copper, or stainless steel, absolutely never aluminum or lead)\\nA cork or rubber stopper which will fit the opening of your kettle or pressure cooker\\n~8mm copper tubing (amount will depend on set up, 10-20 ft is a good amount)\\nA very large thermos/small watercooler or a plastic bucket (if you're cheap)\\nTube couplings (maybe)\\nA thermometer\\nA good drill\\nSome silicon or Sugru\\n1-2. Make the stopper.\\nDrill two holes in your rubber or cork, one for the copper tube and one for the thermometer. These holes should be very slightly smaller than the tube and thermometer, to create a tight fit. Make sure the stopper you use is generally cut to tightly fit the opening of your kettle or pressure cooker.\\n1-3. Prepare the copper coil.\\nYou will need a copper coil to condense the vapor coming from the pot. Take your 8mm copper tubing and shape it into a coil towards one end. You will need a long straight section and a short (at least 6\\\") straight section on each side of the coil. To bend the coil, you can simply bend it around an object or you can use tools designed for bending tube. The coil should be small enough to fit in the thermos or watercooler, with about 1\\\" of space on either side.\\nThese copper coils tend to kink very easily. To avoid this, you can block the tube at one end and fill the tube with salt or sugar (never use sand). Use a funnel and make sure to shake the tube as you fill it to make sure that it fills evenly.\\n1-4. Make your condenser.\\nThe watercooler will be your condenser. Drill a hole on the side at the bottom, where the short section of copper tube will come out and deposit your distilled product. Then, drill a hole at the top on the lid. This is where the long section of tube will come out.\\n1-5. Place the coil in the condenser.\\nPut the copper tubing in the condenser, threading the short end through the hole at the bottom. Once enough of the short end is coming out of the condenser, seal the edges of the hole with silicon or other material, like Sugru or caulk. Then, thread the long straight section of the tube through the hole at the top.\\nIf you want it to be easier to get the lid on and off, cut the tube a few inches after it comes out the hole on the top. Have a separate section which spans the distance and goes into the kettle. Connect the two with couplings, which can be undone as necessary.\\nMake sure you unplug the tube if you did so to fill it with salt. You will also want to empty the tube and rinse out the salt before doing this step, although, it can also be done afterwards, with a greater amount of difficulty.\\n1-6. Connect the tube to the pot.\\nConnect the long portion of the tube to the kettle or pressure cooker, by inserting the other end of the tube into the kettle. It should be inserted only enough to reach inside the kettle, not be submerged in the liquid.\\n1-7. Insert the thermometer.\\nInsert the thermometer into the appropriate hole. Make sure it is place deep enough that the end will be submerged but that it will not touch the bottom or the sides of the pot.\\n1-8. Use the still correctly.\\nFill the condenser with ice, water, and rock salt. Make sure you use this still on an electric stove, as open flames can cause problems. Do not heat the pot once everything has boiled away, and generally be careful as pressure can build up if you have done something incorrectly. If distilling alcohol, don't drink anything which comes out when the temperature reads below 173 F or you will be treated to the best in beverages that make you blind.\\n2. Build a Large Solar Still\\n2-1. Gather your materials.\\nYou will need a container for the distilled water, a plastic sheet and a shovel. You may also want some plastic tubing.\\n2-2. Dig a hole.\\nDig a hole about as large as the plastic sheet and deep enough so that when you weigh the center of the sheet down, there will be several inches between the bottom of the sheet and the bottom of the hole.\\nThis is the sort of still that would be good if you actually have to distill your drinking water. If you get stranded on a desert island, this is your best option.\\n2-3. Insert your container.\\nSet your drinking container in the center of the hole and partially bury it to keep it from falling over. Insert one end of the plastic tubing into the container and lay the other end well outside the hole. The goal is to keep the tubing clean and secure so it doesn't fall back into the hole.\\n2-4. Add plant material.\\nLine the hole with cactus, leaves or other living plant parts if they are available. Placing plants in the hole isn't necessary, but will help your still produce more water.\\n2-5. Cover your hole.\\nCover the hole with a plastic sheet use rocks to weigh down the corners.\\n2-6. Add a weight.\\nCarefully place a rock in the center of the plastic sheet so it slopes downward at an angle of about 45 degrees; the lowest point should be directly over the container in the hole, but not touching it.\\n2-7. Seal the edges.\\nCover all edges of the plastic sheet with dirt or sand to keep water vapor from escaping. Take care not to cover the plastic tubing.\\n2-8. Wait for moisture to collect.\\nWait two or three hours for moisture to collect on the plastic sheet and run down the sides into the container.\\n2-9. Drink!\\nDrink the water through the plastic tubing. You can disassemble the still and drink directly from the container, but you will have to build the still again when you're through; in the meantime, any water vapor on the sheet will evaporate.\\n3. Build a Small Solar Still\\n3-1. Get a fairly deep, large bowl.\\nThis bowl can be plastic, aluminum, or steel, but it should not be made of lead. Put this bowl on a sunny surface outside.\\n3-2. Put a cup or small bowel in the larger bowl.\\nThe cup or bowl should be shorter than the edges of the large bowl.\\n3-3. Fill the large bowl with water.\\nFill the large bowl with water but do not go over the edge of the small bowel or cup.\\n3-4. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.\\nCover the bowl very tightly with plastic wrap. Use tape or rubber bands to ensure a tight seal.\\n3-5. Place a weight at the center of the plastic.\\nThis should be right over your cup or bowl and should angle the plastic down. Make sure the plastic does not touch the cup, though. A good weight to use would be a rock.\\n3-6. Wait for your water.\\nThe sun will evaporate the water in the large bowl, causing the water vapor to rise and condense on the plastic. Since the plastic is weighted and angled, the condensation will roll down into your cup. Mmmm! Clean water!\\nTips\\nIf purifying water using the stove still, try to use glass tubing instead of copper. This makes the purest water!\\nWarnings\\nBe sure to supervise a stove-top still. If you don't turn the stove off as soon as the water is completely boiled out of the pot, you can damage the pot, the glass and possibly the bowl.\\nDon’t ever use an alcoholic still indoors, and especially not if you’re using a propane burner. Instead, use a single electric burner or propane burner outside in a well ventilated area. When you use stills indoors the alcohol vapors can build up and ignite, which can cause a very large fire, especially if you aren’t prepared with the correct class fire extinguisher. Seriously people, don’t do it, this is a major fire hazard since alcohol vapors are extremely flammable and explosive under the right conditions.\\nDon't seal the pot on the stove too tightly. Using a weight in a bowl will prevent too much steam from escaping but also keeps pressure inside the pot from building up. Seal your pot too tightly, and it may explode.\\nMake sure your condenser is dripping well away from your burner.\\nVery high proof alcohol burns with an invisible flame, so be wary. These flames can melt your drip pan and turn a peaceful distilling process into a fiery inferno of death in less than the blink of an eye. For this reason, plastic drip pans are a bad choice, glass is better but not best because it will shatter if heated too fast or unevenly, metal is best. This is also why small neck drip pans are always a good idea, because they limit the airflow, and can contain a fire longer (but still only temporarily) or at least make them much easier to put out if noticed.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Stills are used for many purposes, from purifying water to making gasoline. A still can also be used to make alcohol but in many countries, using a still to make liquor is against the law and can be a dangerous undertaking, both in terms of the process itself and consuming the end product. However, it is perfectly legal, and potentially life saving, to build a still that purifies water. In addition, water stills are interesting contraptions for those with an interest in science, so some people build stills as a fun project.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Stove Still\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get your materials.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a variety of materials, most of which you can get at your local hardware store. Bending copper tubing is involved, so if you really want to make your life easier, you can get a tool which helps you bend tubes (found in the plumbing department of your local hardware store). The materials you'll really need are:\\nYou'll need a kettle or a pressure cooker (preferably copper, or stainless steel, absolutely never aluminum or lead)\\nA cork or rubber stopper which will fit the opening of your kettle or pressure cooker\\n~8mm copper tubing (amount will depend on set up, 10-20 ft is a good amount)\\nA very large thermos/small watercooler or a plastic bucket (if you're cheap)\\nTube couplings (maybe)\\nA thermometer\\nA good drill\\nSome silicon or Sugru\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make the stopper.\", \"描述\": \"Drill two holes in your rubber or cork, one for the copper tube and one for the thermometer. These holes should be very slightly smaller than the tube and thermometer, to create a tight fit. Make sure the stopper you use is generally cut to tightly fit the opening of your kettle or pressure cooker.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare the copper coil.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a copper coil to condense the vapor coming from the pot. Take your 8mm copper tubing and shape it into a coil towards one end. You will need a long straight section and a short (at least 6\\\") straight section on each side of the coil. To bend the coil, you can simply bend it around an object or you can use tools designed for bending tube. The coil should be small enough to fit in the thermos or watercooler, with about 1\\\" of space on either side.\\nThese copper coils tend to kink very easily. To avoid this, you can block the tube at one end and fill the tube with salt or sugar (never use sand). Use a funnel and make sure to shake the tube as you fill it to make sure that it fills evenly.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make your condenser.\", \"描述\": \"The watercooler will be your condenser. Drill a hole on the side at the bottom, where the short section of copper tube will come out and deposit your distilled product. Then, drill a hole at the top on the lid. This is where the long section of tube will come out.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the coil in the condenser.\", \"描述\": \"Put the copper tubing in the condenser, threading the short end through the hole at the bottom. Once enough of the short end is coming out of the condenser, seal the edges of the hole with silicon or other material, like Sugru or caulk. Then, thread the long straight section of the tube through the hole at the top.\\nIf you want it to be easier to get the lid on and off, cut the tube a few inches after it comes out the hole on the top. Have a separate section which spans the distance and goes into the kettle. Connect the two with couplings, which can be undone as necessary.\\nMake sure you unplug the tube if you did so to fill it with salt. You will also want to empty the tube and rinse out the salt before doing this step, although, it can also be done afterwards, with a greater amount of difficulty.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Connect the tube to the pot.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the long portion of the tube to the kettle or pressure cooker, by inserting the other end of the tube into the kettle. It should be inserted only enough to reach inside the kettle, not be submerged in the liquid.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Insert the thermometer.\", \"描述\": \"Insert the thermometer into the appropriate hole. Make sure it is place deep enough that the end will be submerged but that it will not touch the bottom or the sides of the pot.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Use the still correctly.\", \"描述\": \"Fill the condenser with ice, water, and rock salt. Make sure you use this still on an electric stove, as open flames can cause problems. Do not heat the pot once everything has boiled away, and generally be careful as pressure can build up if you have done something incorrectly. If distilling alcohol, don't drink anything which comes out when the temperature reads below 173 F or you will be treated to the best in beverages that make you blind.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a Large Solar Still\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a container for the distilled water, a plastic sheet and a shovel. You may also want some plastic tubing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig a hole.\", \"描述\": \"Dig a hole about as large as the plastic sheet and deep enough so that when you weigh the center of the sheet down, there will be several inches between the bottom of the sheet and the bottom of the hole.\\nThis is the sort of still that would be good if you actually have to distill your drinking water. If you get stranded on a desert island, this is your best option.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert your container.\", \"描述\": \"Set your drinking container in the center of the hole and partially bury it to keep it from falling over. Insert one end of the plastic tubing into the container and lay the other end well outside the hole. The goal is to keep the tubing clean and secure so it doesn't fall back into the hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add plant material.\", \"描述\": \"Line the hole with cactus, leaves or other living plant parts if they are available. Placing plants in the hole isn't necessary, but will help your still produce more water.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cover your hole.\", \"描述\": \"Cover the hole with a plastic sheet use rocks to weigh down the corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add a weight.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully place a rock in the center of the plastic sheet so it slopes downward at an angle of about 45 degrees; the lowest point should be directly over the container in the hole, but not touching it.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Seal the edges.\", \"描述\": \"Cover all edges of the plastic sheet with dirt or sand to keep water vapor from escaping. Take care not to cover the plastic tubing.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Wait for moisture to collect.\", \"描述\": \"Wait two or three hours for moisture to collect on the plastic sheet and run down the sides into the container.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Drink!\", \"描述\": \"Drink the water through the plastic tubing. You can disassemble the still and drink directly from the container, but you will have to build the still again when you're through; in the meantime, any water vapor on the sheet will evaporate.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a Small Solar Still\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a fairly deep, large bowl.\", \"描述\": \"This bowl can be plastic, aluminum, or steel, but it should not be made of lead. Put this bowl on a sunny surface outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put a cup or small bowel in the larger bowl.\", \"描述\": \"The cup or bowl should be shorter than the edges of the large bowl.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill the large bowl with water.\", \"描述\": \"Fill the large bowl with water but do not go over the edge of the small bowel or cup.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.\", \"描述\": \"Cover the bowl very tightly with plastic wrap. Use tape or rubber bands to ensure a tight seal.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place a weight at the center of the plastic.\", \"描述\": \"This should be right over your cup or bowl and should angle the plastic down. Make sure the plastic does not touch the cup, though. A good weight to use would be a rock.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Wait for your water.\", \"描述\": \"The sun will evaporate the water in the large bowl, causing the water vapor to rise and condense on the plastic. Since the plastic is weighted and angled, the condensation will roll down into your cup. Mmmm! Clean water!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If purifying water using the stove still, try to use glass tubing instead of copper. This makes the purest water!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be sure to supervise a stove-top still. If you don't turn the stove off as soon as the water is completely boiled out of the pot, you can damage the pot, the glass and possibly the bowl.\\n\", \"Don’t ever use an alcoholic still indoors, and especially not if you’re using a propane burner. Instead, use a single electric burner or propane burner outside in a well ventilated area. When you use stills indoors the alcohol vapors can build up and ignite, which can cause a very large fire, especially if you aren’t prepared with the correct class fire extinguisher. Seriously people, don’t do it, this is a major fire hazard since alcohol vapors are extremely flammable and explosive under the right conditions.\\n\", \"Don't seal the pot on the stove too tightly. Using a weight in a bowl will prevent too much steam from escaping but also keeps pressure inside the pot from building up. Seal your pot too tightly, and it may explode.\\n\", \"Make sure your condenser is dripping well away from your burner.\\n\", \"Very high proof alcohol burns with an invisible flame, so be wary. These flames can melt your drip pan and turn a peaceful distilling process into a fiery inferno of death in less than the blink of an eye. For this reason, plastic drip pans are a bad choice, glass is better but not best because it will shatter if heated too fast or unevenly, metal is best. This is also why small neck drip pans are always a good idea, because they limit the airflow, and can contain a fire longer (but still only temporarily) or at least make them much easier to put out if noticed.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,567 |
How to Build a Stock Portfolio
|
1. Designing Your Portfolio
1-1. Know what you're willing to invest.
As you invest, you'll need to balance your potential risks against your potential rewards. A portfolio's assets are typically determined by the investor's goals, willingness to take risks, and the length of time the investor intends to hold his portfolio. Some of the most important factors to consider in making these decisions are:
The investor's age.
How much time the investor is willing to spend allowing his investments to grow.
Amount of capital the investor is willing to invest.
Projected capital needs for the future.
Other resources investor may have.
1-2. Decide what kind of investor you'll be.
Portfolios usually fall somewhere in the spectrum between aggressive, or high-risk portfolios, and conservative, or low-risk portfolios. Conservative investors simply try to protect and maintain the value of a portfolio, while aggressive investors tend to take risks with the expectation that some of those risks will pay off. There are various online risk assessment tools you can utilize to help assess your risk tolerance.
Understand that your financial goals may change over time, and adjust your portfolio accordingly. Generally, the younger you are, the more risk you can afford or are willing to take. You may be better served with a growth-oriented portfolio. The older you become, the more you'll think about retirement income, and may be better served with an income-oriented portfolio.
Even during retirement, many still need some portion of their portfolio for growth, as many people are living 20, 30 or more years beyond their retirement date.
1-3. Divide your capital.
Once you've decided what kind of investor you'd like to be and what type of portfolio you want to build, you'll need to determine how you intend to allocate (spread around) your capital. Most investors who are new to the market don't know how to pick stocks. Some important factors include:
Determining which sector(s) to invest in. A sector is the category a given industry is placed in. Examples include telecommunications, financial, information technology, transportation and utilities.
Knowing the market capitalization (aka market cap), which is determined by multiplying a given company's outstanding shares by the current price of one share on the market (large-cap, mid-cap, small-cap, etc.).
It is important to diversify holdings across a variety of sectors and market capitalization to lower a portfolio's overall risk.
2. Making Investments
2-1. Understand the different kinds of stocks.
Stocks represent an ownership stake in the company that issues them. The money generated from the sale of stock is used by the company for its capital projects, and the profits generated by the company's operation may be returned to investors in the form of dividends. Stocks come in two varieties: common and preferred. Preferred stocks are so called because holders of these stocks are paid dividends before owners of common stocks. Most stocks, however, are common stocks, which can be subdivided into the categories below:
Growth stocks are those projected to increase in value faster than the rest of the market, based on their prior performance record. They may entail more risk over time but offer greater potential rewards in the end.
Income stocks are those that do not fluctuate much but have a history of paying out better dividends than other stocks. This category can include both common and preferred stocks.
Value stocks are those that are "undervalued" by the market and can be purchased at a price lower than the underlying worth of the company would suggest. The theory is that when the market "comes to its senses," the owner of such a stock would stand to make a lot of money.
Blue-chip stocks are those that have performed well for a long enough period of time that they are considered fairly stable investments. They may not grow as rapidly as growth stocks or pay as well as income stocks, but they can be depended upon for steady growth or steady income. They are not, however, immune from the fortunes of the market.
Defensive stocks are shares in companies whose products and services people buy, no matter what the economy is doing. They include the stocks of food and beverage companies, pharmaceutical companies and utilities (among others).
Cyclical stocks, in contrast, rise and fall with the economy. They include stocks in such industries as airlines, chemicals, home building and steel manufacturers.
Speculative stocks include the offerings of young companies with new technologies and older companies with new executive talent. They draw investors looking for something new or a way to beat the market. The performance of these stocks is especially unpredictable, and they are sometimes considered to be a high-risk investment.
2-2. Analyze stock fundamentals.
Fundamentals is the term given to the pool of qualitative and quantitative data that are used to determine whether or not a stock is a worthwhile investment in a long-term analysis of the market. Analyzing a company's fundamentals is usually the first step in determining whether or not an investor will buy shares in that company. It is imperative to analyze fundamentals in order to arrive at a company's intrinsic value - that is, the company's actual value as based on perception of all the tangible and intangible aspects of the business, beyond the current market value.
In analyzing the fundamentals of a company, the investor is trying to determine the future value of a company, with all of its projected profits and losses factored in.
2-3. Analyze qualitative factors.
Qualitative factors, such as the expertise and experience of a company's management, various courses of industry cycles, the strength of a company's research and development incentives, and a company's relationship with its workers, are important to take into account when deciding whether or not to invest in a company's stock. It's also important to understand how the company generates its profits and what that company's business model look like in order to have a broad spectrum of qualitative information about that company's stock options.
Try researching companies online before you invest. You should be able to find information about the company's managers, CEO, and board of directors.
2-4. Look at the price-to-earnings ratio.
The P/E ratio can be figured as either the stock's current price against its earnings per share for the last 12 months ("trailing P/E") or its projected earnings for the next 12 months ("anticipated P/E"). A stock selling for $10 per share that earns 10 cents per share has a P/E ratio of 10 divided by 0.1 or 100; a stock selling for $50 per share that earns $2 per share has a P/E ratio of 50 divided by 2 or 25. You want to buy stock with a relatively low P/E ratio.
When looking at P/E ratio, figure the ratio for the stock for several years and compare it to the P/E ratio for other companies in the same industry as well as for indexes representing the entire market, such as the Dow Jones Industrial Average or the Standard and Poor's (S&P) 500.
Comparing the P/E of a stock in one sector to that of a stock in another sector is however, not informative since P/E's vary widely from industry to industry.
2-5. Look at the return on equity.
Also called return on book value, this figure is the company's income after taxes as a percentage of its total book value. It represents how well shareholders are profiting from the company's success. As with P/E ratio, you need to look at several years' worth of returns on equity to get an accurate picture.
2-6. Look at total return.
Total return includes earnings from dividends as well as changes in the value of the stock. This provides a means of comparing the stock with other types of investments.
2-7. Try investing in companies trading below their current worth.
While a broad spectrum of stock investments is important, analysts often recommend buying stock in companies that are trading for lower than they are worth. This sort of value investing does not, however, mean buying "junk" stocks, or stocks that are steadily declining. Value investments are determined by comparing intrinsic market value against the company's current stock share price, without looking at the short-term market fluctuations.
2-8. Try investing in growth stocks.
Growth stocks are investments in companies that exhibit or are predicted to grow significantly faster than other stocks in the market. This involves analyzing a given company's present performance against its past performance amid the industry's ever-fluctuating climate.
3. Maintaining Your Portfolio
3-1. Avoid dipping into investments.
Once you've invested capital in a stock, it's important to let the stock grow for at least a year without selling your shares. Consider for all intents and purposes that this money cannot be withdrawn and spent elsewhere.
As part of investing for the long term, determine the amount of money you can afford to commit to the stock market for five years or longer, and set that aside for investing. Money you'll need in a shorter period of time should be invested in shorter-term investments such as money-market accounts, CDs or U.S. Treasury bonds, bills or notes.
3-2. Diversify your portfolio.
No matter how well a stock might be doing at the moment, the price and value of stocks are bound to fluctuate. Diversifying your investment portfolio can help you avoid this pitfall by spreading around your money to a number of stocks.
A well-diversified portfolio is important because in the event that one or more sectors of the economy start to decline, it will remain strong over time and reduce the likelihood of taking a significant hit as the market fluctuates.
Don't just diversify across the spectrum of asset classes. Some experts recommend you should also diversify your stock picks within each asset class represented in your portfolio.
3-3. Review your portfolio (but not too often).
Anticipate that the market will fluctuate. If you check your stocks every day, you might end up feeling anxious over the value of your investments as things go up or down. But by the same token, you should check on your investments periodically.
Checking your portfolio at least once or twice a year is a good idea but research has shown that making rebalancing changes (selling the gains from those holdings which have been profitable and buying shares of those which have lost value) more than twice per year does not offer any benefit.
Some experts recommend checking on the quarterly earnings reports of a given company to see if your predictions for that company are holding true. Make changes as necessary, but don't jump ship every time a share reports a minor decrease in value.
Also important to keep in mind is tax implications of selling: if this is an account into which you've invested after-tax dollars (non-IRA or similar type of brokerage account), then try not to sell anything at a gain for at least one year in order to receive long-term capital gains rather than ordinary income tax treatment on your profits. For most people, the capital gains rate is more favorable than their income tax rate.
Tips
Be aware of wash sale rules: if you decide to sell a stock or stock fund at a loss and buy into a stock or stock fund which is considered substantially similar within a 30-day period, you will not be able to claim that loss on your taxes.[30]
X
Research source
Consult with a qualified financial planner if you're unsure of how to invest or what stocks are safe to invest in.
Be aware of tax consequences (see comments about long-term vs. short-term capital gains under "Maintaining your portfolio" above), and be aware that you will owe taxes on the dividends you earn on those stocks which pay them to you in the year they are earned, whether they were paid out to you or not.
Warnings
Be aware that not all common stocks pay dividends. Whether a stock pays dividends should be only one factor in choosing it, not necessarily the only factor.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:08",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing Your Portfolio\\n1-1. Know what you're willing to invest.\\nAs you invest, you'll need to balance your potential risks against your potential rewards. A portfolio's assets are typically determined by the investor's goals, willingness to take risks, and the length of time the investor intends to hold his portfolio. Some of the most important factors to consider in making these decisions are:\\nThe investor's age.\\nHow much time the investor is willing to spend allowing his investments to grow.\\nAmount of capital the investor is willing to invest.\\nProjected capital needs for the future.\\nOther resources investor may have.\\n1-2. Decide what kind of investor you'll be.\\nPortfolios usually fall somewhere in the spectrum between aggressive, or high-risk portfolios, and conservative, or low-risk portfolios. Conservative investors simply try to protect and maintain the value of a portfolio, while aggressive investors tend to take risks with the expectation that some of those risks will pay off. There are various online risk assessment tools you can utilize to help assess your risk tolerance.\\nUnderstand that your financial goals may change over time, and adjust your portfolio accordingly. Generally, the younger you are, the more risk you can afford or are willing to take. You may be better served with a growth-oriented portfolio. The older you become, the more you'll think about retirement income, and may be better served with an income-oriented portfolio.\\nEven during retirement, many still need some portion of their portfolio for growth, as many people are living 20, 30 or more years beyond their retirement date.\\n1-3. Divide your capital.\\nOnce you've decided what kind of investor you'd like to be and what type of portfolio you want to build, you'll need to determine how you intend to allocate (spread around) your capital. Most investors who are new to the market don't know how to pick stocks. Some important factors include:\\nDetermining which sector(s) to invest in. A sector is the category a given industry is placed in. Examples include telecommunications, financial, information technology, transportation and utilities.\\nKnowing the market capitalization (aka market cap), which is determined by multiplying a given company's outstanding shares by the current price of one share on the market (large-cap, mid-cap, small-cap, etc.).\\nIt is important to diversify holdings across a variety of sectors and market capitalization to lower a portfolio's overall risk.\\n2. Making Investments\\n2-1. Understand the different kinds of stocks.\\nStocks represent an ownership stake in the company that issues them. The money generated from the sale of stock is used by the company for its capital projects, and the profits generated by the company's operation may be returned to investors in the form of dividends. Stocks come in two varieties: common and preferred. Preferred stocks are so called because holders of these stocks are paid dividends before owners of common stocks. Most stocks, however, are common stocks, which can be subdivided into the categories below:\\nGrowth stocks are those projected to increase in value faster than the rest of the market, based on their prior performance record. They may entail more risk over time but offer greater potential rewards in the end.\\nIncome stocks are those that do not fluctuate much but have a history of paying out better dividends than other stocks. This category can include both common and preferred stocks.\\nValue stocks are those that are \\\"undervalued\\\" by the market and can be purchased at a price lower than the underlying worth of the company would suggest. The theory is that when the market \\\"comes to its senses,\\\" the owner of such a stock would stand to make a lot of money.\\nBlue-chip stocks are those that have performed well for a long enough period of time that they are considered fairly stable investments. They may not grow as rapidly as growth stocks or pay as well as income stocks, but they can be depended upon for steady growth or steady income. They are not, however, immune from the fortunes of the market.\\nDefensive stocks are shares in companies whose products and services people buy, no matter what the economy is doing. They include the stocks of food and beverage companies, pharmaceutical companies and utilities (among others).\\nCyclical stocks, in contrast, rise and fall with the economy. They include stocks in such industries as airlines, chemicals, home building and steel manufacturers.\\nSpeculative stocks include the offerings of young companies with new technologies and older companies with new executive talent. They draw investors looking for something new or a way to beat the market. The performance of these stocks is especially unpredictable, and they are sometimes considered to be a high-risk investment.\\n2-2. Analyze stock fundamentals.\\nFundamentals is the term given to the pool of qualitative and quantitative data that are used to determine whether or not a stock is a worthwhile investment in a long-term analysis of the market. Analyzing a company's fundamentals is usually the first step in determining whether or not an investor will buy shares in that company. It is imperative to analyze fundamentals in order to arrive at a company's intrinsic value - that is, the company's actual value as based on perception of all the tangible and intangible aspects of the business, beyond the current market value.\\nIn analyzing the fundamentals of a company, the investor is trying to determine the future value of a company, with all of its projected profits and losses factored in.\\n2-3. Analyze qualitative factors.\\nQualitative factors, such as the expertise and experience of a company's management, various courses of industry cycles, the strength of a company's research and development incentives, and a company's relationship with its workers, are important to take into account when deciding whether or not to invest in a company's stock. It's also important to understand how the company generates its profits and what that company's business model look like in order to have a broad spectrum of qualitative information about that company's stock options.\\nTry researching companies online before you invest. You should be able to find information about the company's managers, CEO, and board of directors.\\n2-4. Look at the price-to-earnings ratio.\\nThe P/E ratio can be figured as either the stock's current price against its earnings per share for the last 12 months (\\\"trailing P/E\\\") or its projected earnings for the next 12 months (\\\"anticipated P/E\\\"). A stock selling for $10 per share that earns 10 cents per share has a P/E ratio of 10 divided by 0.1 or 100; a stock selling for $50 per share that earns $2 per share has a P/E ratio of 50 divided by 2 or 25. You want to buy stock with a relatively low P/E ratio.\\nWhen looking at P/E ratio, figure the ratio for the stock for several years and compare it to the P/E ratio for other companies in the same industry as well as for indexes representing the entire market, such as the Dow Jones Industrial Average or the Standard and Poor's (S&P) 500.\\nComparing the P/E of a stock in one sector to that of a stock in another sector is however, not informative since P/E's vary widely from industry to industry.\\n2-5. Look at the return on equity.\\nAlso called return on book value, this figure is the company's income after taxes as a percentage of its total book value. It represents how well shareholders are profiting from the company's success. As with P/E ratio, you need to look at several years' worth of returns on equity to get an accurate picture.\\n2-6. Look at total return.\\nTotal return includes earnings from dividends as well as changes in the value of the stock. This provides a means of comparing the stock with other types of investments.\\n2-7. Try investing in companies trading below their current worth.\\nWhile a broad spectrum of stock investments is important, analysts often recommend buying stock in companies that are trading for lower than they are worth. This sort of value investing does not, however, mean buying \\\"junk\\\" stocks, or stocks that are steadily declining. Value investments are determined by comparing intrinsic market value against the company's current stock share price, without looking at the short-term market fluctuations.\\n2-8. Try investing in growth stocks.\\nGrowth stocks are investments in companies that exhibit or are predicted to grow significantly faster than other stocks in the market. This involves analyzing a given company's present performance against its past performance amid the industry's ever-fluctuating climate.\\n3. Maintaining Your Portfolio\\n3-1. Avoid dipping into investments.\\nOnce you've invested capital in a stock, it's important to let the stock grow for at least a year without selling your shares. Consider for all intents and purposes that this money cannot be withdrawn and spent elsewhere.\\nAs part of investing for the long term, determine the amount of money you can afford to commit to the stock market for five years or longer, and set that aside for investing. Money you'll need in a shorter period of time should be invested in shorter-term investments such as money-market accounts, CDs or U.S. Treasury bonds, bills or notes.\\n3-2. Diversify your portfolio.\\nNo matter how well a stock might be doing at the moment, the price and value of stocks are bound to fluctuate. Diversifying your investment portfolio can help you avoid this pitfall by spreading around your money to a number of stocks.\\nA well-diversified portfolio is important because in the event that one or more sectors of the economy start to decline, it will remain strong over time and reduce the likelihood of taking a significant hit as the market fluctuates.\\nDon't just diversify across the spectrum of asset classes. Some experts recommend you should also diversify your stock picks within each asset class represented in your portfolio.\\n3-3. Review your portfolio (but not too often).\\nAnticipate that the market will fluctuate. If you check your stocks every day, you might end up feeling anxious over the value of your investments as things go up or down. But by the same token, you should check on your investments periodically.\\nChecking your portfolio at least once or twice a year is a good idea but research has shown that making rebalancing changes (selling the gains from those holdings which have been profitable and buying shares of those which have lost value) more than twice per year does not offer any benefit.\\nSome experts recommend checking on the quarterly earnings reports of a given company to see if your predictions for that company are holding true. Make changes as necessary, but don't jump ship every time a share reports a minor decrease in value.\\nAlso important to keep in mind is tax implications of selling: if this is an account into which you've invested after-tax dollars (non-IRA or similar type of brokerage account), then try not to sell anything at a gain for at least one year in order to receive long-term capital gains rather than ordinary income tax treatment on your profits. For most people, the capital gains rate is more favorable than their income tax rate.\\nTips\\nBe aware of wash sale rules: if you decide to sell a stock or stock fund at a loss and buy into a stock or stock fund which is considered substantially similar within a 30-day period, you will not be able to claim that loss on your taxes.[30]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nConsult with a qualified financial planner if you're unsure of how to invest or what stocks are safe to invest in.\\nBe aware of tax consequences (see comments about long-term vs. short-term capital gains under \\\"Maintaining your portfolio\\\" above), and be aware that you will owe taxes on the dividends you earn on those stocks which pay them to you in the year they are earned, whether they were paid out to you or not.\\nWarnings\\nBe aware that not all common stocks pay dividends. Whether a stock pays dividends should be only one factor in choosing it, not necessarily the only factor.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The stock market and its potential for risk intimidates many people. Nonetheless, a well-built stock portfolio is likely to outperform other investments over time. It is possible to build a stock portfolio alone, but a qualified financial planner can help. Knowing your goals and your willingness to take risks in advance, as well as understanding the nature of the market, can help you build a successful portfolio.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing Your Portfolio\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know what you're willing to invest.\", \"描述\": \"As you invest, you'll need to balance your potential risks against your potential rewards. A portfolio's assets are typically determined by the investor's goals, willingness to take risks, and the length of time the investor intends to hold his portfolio. Some of the most important factors to consider in making these decisions are:\\nThe investor's age.\\nHow much time the investor is willing to spend allowing his investments to grow.\\nAmount of capital the investor is willing to invest.\\nProjected capital needs for the future.\\nOther resources investor may have.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide what kind of investor you'll be.\", \"描述\": \"Portfolios usually fall somewhere in the spectrum between aggressive, or high-risk portfolios, and conservative, or low-risk portfolios. Conservative investors simply try to protect and maintain the value of a portfolio, while aggressive investors tend to take risks with the expectation that some of those risks will pay off. There are various online risk assessment tools you can utilize to help assess your risk tolerance.\\nUnderstand that your financial goals may change over time, and adjust your portfolio accordingly. Generally, the younger you are, the more risk you can afford or are willing to take. You may be better served with a growth-oriented portfolio. The older you become, the more you'll think about retirement income, and may be better served with an income-oriented portfolio.\\nEven during retirement, many still need some portion of their portfolio for growth, as many people are living 20, 30 or more years beyond their retirement date.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Divide your capital.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've decided what kind of investor you'd like to be and what type of portfolio you want to build, you'll need to determine how you intend to allocate (spread around) your capital. Most investors who are new to the market don't know how to pick stocks. Some important factors include:\\nDetermining which sector(s) to invest in. A sector is the category a given industry is placed in. Examples include telecommunications, financial, information technology, transportation and utilities.\\nKnowing the market capitalization (aka market cap), which is determined by multiplying a given company's outstanding shares by the current price of one share on the market (large-cap, mid-cap, small-cap, etc.).\\nIt is important to diversify holdings across a variety of sectors and market capitalization to lower a portfolio's overall risk.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making Investments\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the different kinds of stocks.\", \"描述\": \"Stocks represent an ownership stake in the company that issues them. The money generated from the sale of stock is used by the company for its capital projects, and the profits generated by the company's operation may be returned to investors in the form of dividends. Stocks come in two varieties: common and preferred. Preferred stocks are so called because holders of these stocks are paid dividends before owners of common stocks. Most stocks, however, are common stocks, which can be subdivided into the categories below:\\nGrowth stocks are those projected to increase in value faster than the rest of the market, based on their prior performance record. They may entail more risk over time but offer greater potential rewards in the end.\\nIncome stocks are those that do not fluctuate much but have a history of paying out better dividends than other stocks. This category can include both common and preferred stocks.\\nValue stocks are those that are \\\"undervalued\\\" by the market and can be purchased at a price lower than the underlying worth of the company would suggest. The theory is that when the market \\\"comes to its senses,\\\" the owner of such a stock would stand to make a lot of money.\\nBlue-chip stocks are those that have performed well for a long enough period of time that they are considered fairly stable investments. They may not grow as rapidly as growth stocks or pay as well as income stocks, but they can be depended upon for steady growth or steady income. They are not, however, immune from the fortunes of the market.\\nDefensive stocks are shares in companies whose products and services people buy, no matter what the economy is doing. They include the stocks of food and beverage companies, pharmaceutical companies and utilities (among others).\\nCyclical stocks, in contrast, rise and fall with the economy. They include stocks in such industries as airlines, chemicals, home building and steel manufacturers.\\nSpeculative stocks include the offerings of young companies with new technologies and older companies with new executive talent. They draw investors looking for something new or a way to beat the market. The performance of these stocks is especially unpredictable, and they are sometimes considered to be a high-risk investment.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Analyze stock fundamentals.\", \"描述\": \"Fundamentals is the term given to the pool of qualitative and quantitative data that are used to determine whether or not a stock is a worthwhile investment in a long-term analysis of the market. Analyzing a company's fundamentals is usually the first step in determining whether or not an investor will buy shares in that company. It is imperative to analyze fundamentals in order to arrive at a company's intrinsic value - that is, the company's actual value as based on perception of all the tangible and intangible aspects of the business, beyond the current market value.\\nIn analyzing the fundamentals of a company, the investor is trying to determine the future value of a company, with all of its projected profits and losses factored in.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Analyze qualitative factors.\", \"描述\": \"Qualitative factors, such as the expertise and experience of a company's management, various courses of industry cycles, the strength of a company's research and development incentives, and a company's relationship with its workers, are important to take into account when deciding whether or not to invest in a company's stock. It's also important to understand how the company generates its profits and what that company's business model look like in order to have a broad spectrum of qualitative information about that company's stock options.\\nTry researching companies online before you invest. You should be able to find information about the company's managers, CEO, and board of directors.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Look at the price-to-earnings ratio.\", \"描述\": \"The P/E ratio can be figured as either the stock's current price against its earnings per share for the last 12 months (\\\"trailing P/E\\\") or its projected earnings for the next 12 months (\\\"anticipated P/E\\\"). A stock selling for $10 per share that earns 10 cents per share has a P/E ratio of 10 divided by 0.1 or 100; a stock selling for $50 per share that earns $2 per share has a P/E ratio of 50 divided by 2 or 25. You want to buy stock with a relatively low P/E ratio.\\nWhen looking at P/E ratio, figure the ratio for the stock for several years and compare it to the P/E ratio for other companies in the same industry as well as for indexes representing the entire market, such as the Dow Jones Industrial Average or the Standard and Poor's (S&P) 500.\\nComparing the P/E of a stock in one sector to that of a stock in another sector is however, not informative since P/E's vary widely from industry to industry.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Look at the return on equity.\", \"描述\": \"Also called return on book value, this figure is the company's income after taxes as a percentage of its total book value. It represents how well shareholders are profiting from the company's success. As with P/E ratio, you need to look at several years' worth of returns on equity to get an accurate picture.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Look at total return.\", \"描述\": \"Total return includes earnings from dividends as well as changes in the value of the stock. This provides a means of comparing the stock with other types of investments.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Try investing in companies trading below their current worth.\", \"描述\": \"While a broad spectrum of stock investments is important, analysts often recommend buying stock in companies that are trading for lower than they are worth. This sort of value investing does not, however, mean buying \\\"junk\\\" stocks, or stocks that are steadily declining. Value investments are determined by comparing intrinsic market value against the company's current stock share price, without looking at the short-term market fluctuations.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Try investing in growth stocks.\", \"描述\": \"Growth stocks are investments in companies that exhibit or are predicted to grow significantly faster than other stocks in the market. This involves analyzing a given company's present performance against its past performance amid the industry's ever-fluctuating climate.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Maintaining Your Portfolio\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Avoid dipping into investments.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've invested capital in a stock, it's important to let the stock grow for at least a year without selling your shares. Consider for all intents and purposes that this money cannot be withdrawn and spent elsewhere.\\nAs part of investing for the long term, determine the amount of money you can afford to commit to the stock market for five years or longer, and set that aside for investing. Money you'll need in a shorter period of time should be invested in shorter-term investments such as money-market accounts, CDs or U.S. Treasury bonds, bills or notes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Diversify your portfolio.\", \"描述\": \"No matter how well a stock might be doing at the moment, the price and value of stocks are bound to fluctuate. Diversifying your investment portfolio can help you avoid this pitfall by spreading around your money to a number of stocks.\\nA well-diversified portfolio is important because in the event that one or more sectors of the economy start to decline, it will remain strong over time and reduce the likelihood of taking a significant hit as the market fluctuates.\\nDon't just diversify across the spectrum of asset classes. Some experts recommend you should also diversify your stock picks within each asset class represented in your portfolio.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Review your portfolio (but not too often).\", \"描述\": \"Anticipate that the market will fluctuate. If you check your stocks every day, you might end up feeling anxious over the value of your investments as things go up or down. But by the same token, you should check on your investments periodically.\\nChecking your portfolio at least once or twice a year is a good idea but research has shown that making rebalancing changes (selling the gains from those holdings which have been profitable and buying shares of those which have lost value) more than twice per year does not offer any benefit.\\nSome experts recommend checking on the quarterly earnings reports of a given company to see if your predictions for that company are holding true. Make changes as necessary, but don't jump ship every time a share reports a minor decrease in value.\\nAlso important to keep in mind is tax implications of selling: if this is an account into which you've invested after-tax dollars (non-IRA or similar type of brokerage account), then try not to sell anything at a gain for at least one year in order to receive long-term capital gains rather than ordinary income tax treatment on your profits. For most people, the capital gains rate is more favorable than their income tax rate.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Be aware of wash sale rules: if you decide to sell a stock or stock fund at a loss and buy into a stock or stock fund which is considered substantially similar within a 30-day period, you will not be able to claim that loss on your taxes.[30]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Consult with a qualified financial planner if you're unsure of how to invest or what stocks are safe to invest in.\\n\", \"Be aware of tax consequences (see comments about long-term vs. short-term capital gains under \\\"Maintaining your portfolio\\\" above), and be aware that you will owe taxes on the dividends you earn on those stocks which pay them to you in the year they are earned, whether they were paid out to you or not.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be aware that not all common stocks pay dividends. Whether a stock pays dividends should be only one factor in choosing it, not necessarily the only factor.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,568 |
How to Build a Stone Fence
|
1. Steps
1-1. Start by getting a lot of stones, fairly consistent with the size of the wall you're building.
Get big stones for a big wall, smaller stones for a smaller wall. Make sure you have a good supply of smaller stones that can fill gaps. You may want to use stone blocks.
1-2. Make sure the spot is sturdy before you start, and will hold your wall.
If the base is uneven, use a leveling line to correct it.
1-3. Decide how wide and how long it should be, where you want it and how high it should be (mark this, either with ruler/yardstick or a grid/blueprint).
1-4. As a rule, a dry stacked wall should lean in towards the top 1/6 of the height.
1-5. Lay out a side rail (with something long like sticks, rulers, wood, small stones) to guide you, and outline where you want your wall, so that your wall is consistent.
To make a straight and level wall, get string or flagging tape and tie it between posts on both ends of the fence. Make sure to tie the string / flagging tape at the height you want your fence to use as a guide.
1-6. You may want to call for help.
Call a professional, strong friends, or neighbors who can help you. Use a wheelbarrow or a handcart to move heavy stones. Extraordinarily large stones may need to be moved with special power equipment.
1-7. Put a layer of larger flat rocks along the inside of your wall.
Make sure you fill in the spaces, and it's a fairly even layer, and patch-in holes/spaces with dirt or more dirt to give you a good base.
1-8. Continue to build up layers until your base is high enough, and check to ensure that it's level.
To make a strong wall try to place each stone over the gap between two stones beneath it.
Tips
The ways in which a wall defies these common sense rules often is what makes it beautiful. Don't be afraid to experiment with irregular sizes and shapes.
If you have a particularly pretty rock, attempt to find a place for it as an edge or top stone.
Use "native" stone whenever possible: that is, local stone better fits the landscape (eg, color, mosses, lichens, etc.) than trucked-in stone.
Warnings
Make sure it's safe, not on top of any wires or any plumbing outlets.
Make sure you build your wall in a safe, sturdy place.
If it's not built correctly it may fall, so beware of any balance issues.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:08",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Start by getting a lot of stones, fairly consistent with the size of the wall you're building.\\nGet big stones for a big wall, smaller stones for a smaller wall. Make sure you have a good supply of smaller stones that can fill gaps. You may want to use stone blocks.\\n1-2. Make sure the spot is sturdy before you start, and will hold your wall.\\nIf the base is uneven, use a leveling line to correct it.\\n1-3. Decide how wide and how long it should be, where you want it and how high it should be (mark this, either with ruler/yardstick or a grid/blueprint).\\n\\n1-4. As a rule, a dry stacked wall should lean in towards the top 1/6 of the height.\\n\\n1-5. Lay out a side rail (with something long like sticks, rulers, wood, small stones) to guide you, and outline where you want your wall, so that your wall is consistent.\\nTo make a straight and level wall, get string or flagging tape and tie it between posts on both ends of the fence. Make sure to tie the string / flagging tape at the height you want your fence to use as a guide.\\n1-6. You may want to call for help.\\nCall a professional, strong friends, or neighbors who can help you. Use a wheelbarrow or a handcart to move heavy stones. Extraordinarily large stones may need to be moved with special power equipment.\\n1-7. Put a layer of larger flat rocks along the inside of your wall.\\nMake sure you fill in the spaces, and it's a fairly even layer, and patch-in holes/spaces with dirt or more dirt to give you a good base.\\n1-8. Continue to build up layers until your base is high enough, and check to ensure that it's level.\\nTo make a strong wall try to place each stone over the gap between two stones beneath it.\\nTips\\nThe ways in which a wall defies these common sense rules often is what makes it beautiful. Don't be afraid to experiment with irregular sizes and shapes.\\nIf you have a particularly pretty rock, attempt to find a place for it as an edge or top stone.\\nUse \\\"native\\\" stone whenever possible: that is, local stone better fits the landscape (eg, color, mosses, lichens, etc.) than trucked-in stone.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure it's safe, not on top of any wires or any plumbing outlets.\\nMake sure you build your wall in a safe, sturdy place.\\nIf it's not built correctly it may fall, so beware of any balance issues.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"What most people perceive as a stone wall is actually a stone fence when it's used to mark boundaries rather than act as a barrier. Even if you're an amateur, you can build your own stone fence by following these instructions.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start by getting a lot of stones, fairly consistent with the size of the wall you're building.\", \"描述\": \"Get big stones for a big wall, smaller stones for a smaller wall. Make sure you have a good supply of smaller stones that can fill gaps. You may want to use stone blocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure the spot is sturdy before you start, and will hold your wall.\", \"描述\": \"If the base is uneven, use a leveling line to correct it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide how wide and how long it should be, where you want it and how high it should be (mark this, either with ruler/yardstick or a grid/blueprint).\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"As a rule, a dry stacked wall should lean in towards the top 1/6 of the height.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lay out a side rail (with something long like sticks, rulers, wood, small stones) to guide you, and outline where you want your wall, so that your wall is consistent.\", \"描述\": \"To make a straight and level wall, get string or flagging tape and tie it between posts on both ends of the fence. Make sure to tie the string / flagging tape at the height you want your fence to use as a guide.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"You may want to call for help.\", \"描述\": \"Call a professional, strong friends, or neighbors who can help you. Use a wheelbarrow or a handcart to move heavy stones. Extraordinarily large stones may need to be moved with special power equipment.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Put a layer of larger flat rocks along the inside of your wall.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you fill in the spaces, and it's a fairly even layer, and patch-in holes/spaces with dirt or more dirt to give you a good base.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Continue to build up layers until your base is high enough, and check to ensure that it's level.\", \"描述\": \"To make a strong wall try to place each stone over the gap between two stones beneath it.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The ways in which a wall defies these common sense rules often is what makes it beautiful. Don't be afraid to experiment with irregular sizes and shapes.\\n\", \"If you have a particularly pretty rock, attempt to find a place for it as an edge or top stone.\\n\", \"Use \\\"native\\\" stone whenever possible: that is, local stone better fits the landscape (eg, color, mosses, lichens, etc.) than trucked-in stone.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure it's safe, not on top of any wires or any plumbing outlets.\\n\", \"Make sure you build your wall in a safe, sturdy place.\\n\", \"If it's not built correctly it may fall, so beware of any balance issues.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,569 |
How to Build a Stone Foundation
|
1. Steps
1-1. Dig a perimeter trench along the boundaries of your proposed building.
The trench should be about 1.5' wide, and deep enough so that it's below the frostline. Use a pick/mattock to break up the soil, and a transfer shovel to shovel it out. The soil can be used as fill to build up the grade within the foundation, or outside it to slope the land down and away from the dwelling. When the trench depth is roughed out, use a square-ended shovel to scrape the bottom, so that the floor of the trench remains packed and undisturbed.
1-2. Set in the largest stones first.
If you have boulders, or something like these hardened Quikrete bags to use, lay them in the bottom of the trench like this:
Continue to set in the largest stones you can lift and fit in the trench. The stone should get progressively smaller as you fill towards the top.
1-3. Pack it tight.
Everything should fit like a puzzle - pound rocks in with a hammer where you need to. Urbanite can also be used, and torn up asphalt sections from roads. If you're using old concrete block, break it up into flat pieces with a hammer.
1-4. Cover with gravel, and tamp.
Make sure to swish the gravel around with your hands into all the crevices in your rubble.
1-5. Lay any pipe or conduit down and pack around it with stone.
For good measure, lay an extra water line, and both 2" to 3" greywater and 4" blackwater pipe, just in case you want to tie into them at some point.
1-6. Put in the stem wall
If you want to continue in the same low-cost, green, site-harvested, ultra-durable tradition, do an earthbag stem wall. This is rows of polypro seed bags filled with either dirt or rock, with strips of barbed wire run between each row for tensile strength. In the standard earthbag stem wall the bottommost rows are composed of bags of tamped aggregate (sand, gravel, rock, etc.), and the rows above are filled with a stabilized earth mix - your dirt mixed with either cement or lime, and allowed to cure until it hardens into rock. The stem wall when finished is covered in chicken wire and plastered for lateral strength and to protect the polypro bags. Earthbags are wide and make excellent stem walls for alternative building systems such as cordwood masonry and straw bale - as well as walls of earthbags themselves!
Tips
There are two ways to keep water out of your trench. One is to have a large roof overhang and make sure the ground slopes down and away from the building at all points. The other is to lay perforated drain pipe throughout the bottom of the trench, making sure it's sloped and it all ultimately drains to daylight.
The stem wall can be tied to the rubble trench by pounding rod down and through it, then filling the voids in your block with concrete. If you're doing earthbag stem walls, rod can be pounded down and through them the same, and once the stabilized earth mix cures the rod will become immovable.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:08",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Dig a perimeter trench along the boundaries of your proposed building.\\nThe trench should be about 1.5' wide, and deep enough so that it's below the frostline. Use a pick/mattock to break up the soil, and a transfer shovel to shovel it out. The soil can be used as fill to build up the grade within the foundation, or outside it to slope the land down and away from the dwelling. When the trench depth is roughed out, use a square-ended shovel to scrape the bottom, so that the floor of the trench remains packed and undisturbed.\\n1-2. Set in the largest stones first.\\nIf you have boulders, or something like these hardened Quikrete bags to use, lay them in the bottom of the trench like this:\\nContinue to set in the largest stones you can lift and fit in the trench. The stone should get progressively smaller as you fill towards the top.\\n1-3. Pack it tight.\\nEverything should fit like a puzzle - pound rocks in with a hammer where you need to. Urbanite can also be used, and torn up asphalt sections from roads. If you're using old concrete block, break it up into flat pieces with a hammer.\\n1-4. Cover with gravel, and tamp.\\nMake sure to swish the gravel around with your hands into all the crevices in your rubble.\\n1-5. Lay any pipe or conduit down and pack around it with stone.\\nFor good measure, lay an extra water line, and both 2\\\" to 3\\\" greywater and 4\\\" blackwater pipe, just in case you want to tie into them at some point.\\n1-6. Put in the stem wall\\nIf you want to continue in the same low-cost, green, site-harvested, ultra-durable tradition, do an earthbag stem wall. This is rows of polypro seed bags filled with either dirt or rock, with strips of barbed wire run between each row for tensile strength. In the standard earthbag stem wall the bottommost rows are composed of bags of tamped aggregate (sand, gravel, rock, etc.), and the rows above are filled with a stabilized earth mix - your dirt mixed with either cement or lime, and allowed to cure until it hardens into rock. The stem wall when finished is covered in chicken wire and plastered for lateral strength and to protect the polypro bags. Earthbags are wide and make excellent stem walls for alternative building systems such as cordwood masonry and straw bale - as well as walls of earthbags themselves!\\nTips\\nThere are two ways to keep water out of your trench. One is to have a large roof overhang and make sure the ground slopes down and away from the building at all points. The other is to lay perforated drain pipe throughout the bottom of the trench, making sure it's sloped and it all ultimately drains to daylight.\\nThe stem wall can be tied to the rubble trench by pounding rod down and through it, then filling the voids in your block with concrete. If you're doing earthbag stem walls, rod can be pounded down and through them the same, and once the stabilized earth mix cures the rod will become immovable.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A foundation can be built for free out of stone on your land. This perimeter base of packed stone is referred to as 'the rubble trench'. It is a foundation that has been used successfully for thousands of years. Nothing is as durable as stone. And if you happen to have no stone on your property, simply order a truckload of gravel (about $200) - it works just as well.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig a perimeter trench along the boundaries of your proposed building.\", \"描述\": \"The trench should be about 1.5' wide, and deep enough so that it's below the frostline. Use a pick/mattock to break up the soil, and a transfer shovel to shovel it out. The soil can be used as fill to build up the grade within the foundation, or outside it to slope the land down and away from the dwelling. When the trench depth is roughed out, use a square-ended shovel to scrape the bottom, so that the floor of the trench remains packed and undisturbed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set in the largest stones first.\", \"描述\": \"If you have boulders, or something like these hardened Quikrete bags to use, lay them in the bottom of the trench like this:\\nContinue to set in the largest stones you can lift and fit in the trench. The stone should get progressively smaller as you fill towards the top.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pack it tight.\", \"描述\": \"Everything should fit like a puzzle - pound rocks in with a hammer where you need to. Urbanite can also be used, and torn up asphalt sections from roads. If you're using old concrete block, break it up into flat pieces with a hammer.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover with gravel, and tamp.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to swish the gravel around with your hands into all the crevices in your rubble.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lay any pipe or conduit down and pack around it with stone.\", \"描述\": \"For good measure, lay an extra water line, and both 2\\\" to 3\\\" greywater and 4\\\" blackwater pipe, just in case you want to tie into them at some point.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Put in the stem wall\", \"描述\": \"If you want to continue in the same low-cost, green, site-harvested, ultra-durable tradition, do an earthbag stem wall. This is rows of polypro seed bags filled with either dirt or rock, with strips of barbed wire run between each row for tensile strength. In the standard earthbag stem wall the bottommost rows are composed of bags of tamped aggregate (sand, gravel, rock, etc.), and the rows above are filled with a stabilized earth mix - your dirt mixed with either cement or lime, and allowed to cure until it hardens into rock. The stem wall when finished is covered in chicken wire and plastered for lateral strength and to protect the polypro bags. Earthbags are wide and make excellent stem walls for alternative building systems such as cordwood masonry and straw bale - as well as walls of earthbags themselves!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"There are two ways to keep water out of your trench. One is to have a large roof overhang and make sure the ground slopes down and away from the building at all points. The other is to lay perforated drain pipe throughout the bottom of the trench, making sure it's sloped and it all ultimately drains to daylight.\\n\", \"The stem wall can be tied to the rubble trench by pounding rod down and through it, then filling the voids in your block with concrete. If you're doing earthbag stem walls, rod can be pounded down and through them the same, and once the stabilized earth mix cures the rod will become immovable.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,570 |
How to Build a Storm Shelter
|
1. Choosing a Location
1-1. Look for a location on top of the building’s foundation.
Your storm shelter will need to be anchored into a strong concrete slab foundation. Choose a location in your basement or on your ground floor near a structural wall so your shelter will be out of the way and has additional support.
Choose a location above ground if you’re concerned about flood risking from severe storms such as hurricanes.
Basement shelters are more effective protection against tornadoes than above-ground shelters.
A bathroom, closet, or corner of the garage are also suitable locations for your storm shelter.
1-2. Clear the area of any obstructions.
Move any storage items, furniture, or decor from the area you’ve selected to place your shelter. You also need to remove any tiling, carpeting, or any other flooring if it’s covering the structure’s foundation.
Move any items far enough that they won’t get in your way while you’re working.
Make sure there’s a clear path to the storm shelter area and it can be accessed quickly.
1-3. Calculate 7 square feet (0.65 m) for each person.
FEMA recommendations state that there needs to be enough floor space for each person to occupy the shelter for the duration of the tornado or hurricane. Count each person that you believe may need to use the shelter in an emergency and multiply that by 7 square feet (0.65 m) to find the total area your shelter needs to cover.
For example, if you have a family of 4 people, then you would need a space that covers an area of 28 square feet (2.6 m).
Consider adding an additional person or two into your calculations in case you need more space.
1-4. Measure the length of your storm shelter walls.
The formula for finding the area of a square is to multiply the length of 1 side by the width of 1 side. Find the lengths of your walls based on the square footage or meters that you need. Then, use a ruler or tape measure to measure the lengths on the ground.
A square shaped shelter will provide the strongest protection against a storm.
2. Constructing the Frame
2-1. Measure and cut 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards the lengths of your walls.
Take 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards, measure the length of your walls and mark the measurements on the boards with a pencil or marker. Then, use a circular saw to cut the boards to size.
You can also measure your walls and purchase pre-cut boards that fit your measurements.
Ask an employee at the hardware or home improvement store that you purchase your boards from to cut them to size for you.
2-2. Drill 5.5 in (14 cm) holes in the boards and concrete with a hammer drill.
A hammer drill is a powerful tool that will allow you to drill into the concrete foundation. Drill holes spaced out about 12 inches (30 cm) apart through both of the boards and into the concrete beneath them.
The holes will be needed so you can attach the anchor bolts.
Start the drill slowly and bring it up to full speed to drive through the boards and into the foundation.
You can rent hammer drills from home improvement stores.
2-3. Anchor the boards to the slab with 5.5 in (14 cm) anchor bolts.
Align the boards so the holes line up with the ones in the slab. Slide a nut on the threaded end of the anchor bolt to protect it and use a hammer to knock the bolt into the holes. Then, tighten the nut to secure the boards to the concrete slab. Install anchor bolts into all of the holes you drilled in the slab.
Use a wrench to tighten the bolts as much as you can so the boards are securely fastened.
2-4. Screw 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards into the ceiling above the slab.
Line up 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards directly above the boards anchored on the ground. Use 6 in (15 cm) wood screws to attach them to the ceiling above the slab.
You’ll need the boards in the ceiling in order to install your wall studs.
Make sure the boards are secure in the ceiling.
2-5. Attach studs from the floor frame to the ceiling with concrete nails.
Take 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards with a length that reaches from the framing board on the slab to the board on the ceiling. Install a double layer of the boards spaced out 12 inches (30 cm) using 6 in (15 cm) wood screws.
Install at least 2 screws for each end of the stud.
2-6. Secure the studs to the ceiling with hurricane ties.
Hurricane ties are metal fasteners that are secured to wall studs to allow them to resist the force of hurricane-strength winds. Slide the hurricane ties over the studs where they connect to the boards on the ceiling and nail or screw them into place.
Use 1 hurricane tie for each stud to make the walls strong enough to withstand strong winds.
You can find hurricane ties at hardware stores, at home improvement stores, and online.
2-7. Drill 14-gauge steel sheets onto the studs of 3 of the walls.
Take a power drill and use #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws to attach the steel sheets to the wall studs to create a solid structure. Drive the screws through the sheet and into the wooden studs.
You can find 14-gauge steel sheets at roofing supply stores, at home improvement stores, and online.
Do not install metal sheeting over the wall where you plan to install the door at this point.
2-8. Nail 2 layers of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood over the steel sheeting.
Place a sheet of plywood over the steel sheeting and drive #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws through sheets and into the wall studs with a power drill. Cover the metal sheeting completely with a layer of the plywood, then attach a second layer for additional support.
3. Installing the Door
3-1. Use a door assembly rated to withstand tornadoes.
A door failure can lead to serious injury or death during a catastrophe. Choose a door assembly that includes locks, hinges, frame, and attachment devices that have been tested to withstand the wind, pressure, and impact of serious storms like tornadoes and hurricanes.
Storm shelter doors are heavy and expensive, but common steel doors that are often used in residential and commercial construction can’t withstand the impact of tornadoes and hurricanes.
You may be able to find storm-rated doors at home improvement or hardware stores, but you may need to go online to order a specialized storm room door.
3-2. Measure and mark the size of the door frame on the open stud wall.
Use the measurements of the door you plan to install so you can create an opening that will fit the frame. Measure your door with a ruler or tape measure, then measure the height and width on the studs of the open wall. Use a pencil or marker to mark where you need to cut away the studs.
Make sure the door frame is at least 7 feet (2.1 m) tall so you can fit through it.
3-3. Cut away the studs with a circular saw to fit the door frame.
Cut evenly along the lines that you marked on the studs to fit your door frame. Remove just enough of the studs to accommodate your door frame.
You can lightly sand the cut edges of the studs with 180-grit sandpaper if they’re jagged or uneven.
3-4. Install the door in the opening according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Position the frame in the opening and then nail it into place with casing nails. Then, install the door by attaching the hinges to the frames as directed by the manufacturer’s directions. Make sure the door is level and the hinges are secure in the frame. Install any additional specialized attachment pieces that are directed.
Use any screws or nails that are included in the door assembly.
Open and close the door to make sure it’s working properly.
Use a level to make sure the frame of the door is even.
3-5. Cover the open wall with steel sheets and 2 layers of plywood.
Once the door is installed, place steel sheets over the open studs and secure them by driving #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws into each of the corners. Then, cover the sheets with plywood and drive #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws through them into the wooden studs to secure them. Install an additional layer of plywood to complete the wall.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:08",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing a Location\\n1-1. Look for a location on top of the building’s foundation.\\nYour storm shelter will need to be anchored into a strong concrete slab foundation. Choose a location in your basement or on your ground floor near a structural wall so your shelter will be out of the way and has additional support.\\nChoose a location above ground if you’re concerned about flood risking from severe storms such as hurricanes.\\nBasement shelters are more effective protection against tornadoes than above-ground shelters.\\nA bathroom, closet, or corner of the garage are also suitable locations for your storm shelter.\\n1-2. Clear the area of any obstructions.\\nMove any storage items, furniture, or decor from the area you’ve selected to place your shelter. You also need to remove any tiling, carpeting, or any other flooring if it’s covering the structure’s foundation.\\nMove any items far enough that they won’t get in your way while you’re working.\\nMake sure there’s a clear path to the storm shelter area and it can be accessed quickly.\\n1-3. Calculate 7 square feet (0.65 m) for each person.\\nFEMA recommendations state that there needs to be enough floor space for each person to occupy the shelter for the duration of the tornado or hurricane. Count each person that you believe may need to use the shelter in an emergency and multiply that by 7 square feet (0.65 m) to find the total area your shelter needs to cover.\\nFor example, if you have a family of 4 people, then you would need a space that covers an area of 28 square feet (2.6 m).\\nConsider adding an additional person or two into your calculations in case you need more space.\\n1-4. Measure the length of your storm shelter walls.\\nThe formula for finding the area of a square is to multiply the length of 1 side by the width of 1 side. Find the lengths of your walls based on the square footage or meters that you need. Then, use a ruler or tape measure to measure the lengths on the ground.\\nA square shaped shelter will provide the strongest protection against a storm.\\n2. Constructing the Frame\\n2-1. Measure and cut 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards the lengths of your walls.\\nTake 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards, measure the length of your walls and mark the measurements on the boards with a pencil or marker. Then, use a circular saw to cut the boards to size.\\nYou can also measure your walls and purchase pre-cut boards that fit your measurements.\\nAsk an employee at the hardware or home improvement store that you purchase your boards from to cut them to size for you.\\n2-2. Drill 5.5 in (14 cm) holes in the boards and concrete with a hammer drill.\\nA hammer drill is a powerful tool that will allow you to drill into the concrete foundation. Drill holes spaced out about 12 inches (30 cm) apart through both of the boards and into the concrete beneath them.\\nThe holes will be needed so you can attach the anchor bolts.\\nStart the drill slowly and bring it up to full speed to drive through the boards and into the foundation.\\nYou can rent hammer drills from home improvement stores.\\n2-3. Anchor the boards to the slab with 5.5 in (14 cm) anchor bolts.\\nAlign the boards so the holes line up with the ones in the slab. Slide a nut on the threaded end of the anchor bolt to protect it and use a hammer to knock the bolt into the holes. Then, tighten the nut to secure the boards to the concrete slab. Install anchor bolts into all of the holes you drilled in the slab.\\nUse a wrench to tighten the bolts as much as you can so the boards are securely fastened.\\n2-4. Screw 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards into the ceiling above the slab.\\nLine up 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards directly above the boards anchored on the ground. Use 6 in (15 cm) wood screws to attach them to the ceiling above the slab.\\nYou’ll need the boards in the ceiling in order to install your wall studs.\\nMake sure the boards are secure in the ceiling.\\n2-5. Attach studs from the floor frame to the ceiling with concrete nails.\\nTake 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards with a length that reaches from the framing board on the slab to the board on the ceiling. Install a double layer of the boards spaced out 12 inches (30 cm) using 6 in (15 cm) wood screws.\\nInstall at least 2 screws for each end of the stud.\\n2-6. Secure the studs to the ceiling with hurricane ties.\\nHurricane ties are metal fasteners that are secured to wall studs to allow them to resist the force of hurricane-strength winds. Slide the hurricane ties over the studs where they connect to the boards on the ceiling and nail or screw them into place.\\nUse 1 hurricane tie for each stud to make the walls strong enough to withstand strong winds.\\nYou can find hurricane ties at hardware stores, at home improvement stores, and online.\\n2-7. Drill 14-gauge steel sheets onto the studs of 3 of the walls.\\nTake a power drill and use #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws to attach the steel sheets to the wall studs to create a solid structure. Drive the screws through the sheet and into the wooden studs.\\nYou can find 14-gauge steel sheets at roofing supply stores, at home improvement stores, and online.\\nDo not install metal sheeting over the wall where you plan to install the door at this point.\\n2-8. Nail 2 layers of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood over the steel sheeting.\\nPlace a sheet of plywood over the steel sheeting and drive #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws through sheets and into the wall studs with a power drill. Cover the metal sheeting completely with a layer of the plywood, then attach a second layer for additional support.\\n3. Installing the Door\\n3-1. Use a door assembly rated to withstand tornadoes.\\nA door failure can lead to serious injury or death during a catastrophe. Choose a door assembly that includes locks, hinges, frame, and attachment devices that have been tested to withstand the wind, pressure, and impact of serious storms like tornadoes and hurricanes.\\nStorm shelter doors are heavy and expensive, but common steel doors that are often used in residential and commercial construction can’t withstand the impact of tornadoes and hurricanes.\\nYou may be able to find storm-rated doors at home improvement or hardware stores, but you may need to go online to order a specialized storm room door.\\n3-2. Measure and mark the size of the door frame on the open stud wall.\\nUse the measurements of the door you plan to install so you can create an opening that will fit the frame. Measure your door with a ruler or tape measure, then measure the height and width on the studs of the open wall. Use a pencil or marker to mark where you need to cut away the studs. \\nMake sure the door frame is at least 7 feet (2.1 m) tall so you can fit through it.\\n3-3. Cut away the studs with a circular saw to fit the door frame.\\nCut evenly along the lines that you marked on the studs to fit your door frame. Remove just enough of the studs to accommodate your door frame. \\nYou can lightly sand the cut edges of the studs with 180-grit sandpaper if they’re jagged or uneven.\\n3-4. Install the door in the opening according to the manufacturer’s directions.\\nPosition the frame in the opening and then nail it into place with casing nails. Then, install the door by attaching the hinges to the frames as directed by the manufacturer’s directions. Make sure the door is level and the hinges are secure in the frame. Install any additional specialized attachment pieces that are directed. \\nUse any screws or nails that are included in the door assembly.\\nOpen and close the door to make sure it’s working properly.\\nUse a level to make sure the frame of the door is even.\\n3-5. Cover the open wall with steel sheets and 2 layers of plywood.\\nOnce the door is installed, place steel sheets over the open studs and secure them by driving #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws into each of the corners. Then, cover the sheets with plywood and drive #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws through them into the wooden studs to secure them. Install an additional layer of plywood to complete the wall.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A storm shelter is a safe place that you can use to take refuge during a catastrophic storm event such as a tornado or a hurricane. Building an in-ground or above-ground storm shelter should be done by licensed professionals who follow the guidelines set by governmental organizations such as the Federal Emergency Management Administration (FEMA). But, you can build your own storm shelter on top of your concrete slab foundation that you can use to protect yourself during a storm. Start by choosing a location on top of the concrete slab of the structure and measuring how much space you’ll need. Then, build a sturdy frame to support the shelter. Finally, cover the walls with steel sheeting and plywood and install a door that is certified to withstand the pressure, wind, and impact of catastrophic storms.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing a Location\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look for a location on top of the building’s foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Your storm shelter will need to be anchored into a strong concrete slab foundation. Choose a location in your basement or on your ground floor near a structural wall so your shelter will be out of the way and has additional support.\\nChoose a location above ground if you’re concerned about flood risking from severe storms such as hurricanes.\\nBasement shelters are more effective protection against tornadoes than above-ground shelters.\\nA bathroom, closet, or corner of the garage are also suitable locations for your storm shelter.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Clear the area of any obstructions.\", \"描述\": \"Move any storage items, furniture, or decor from the area you’ve selected to place your shelter. You also need to remove any tiling, carpeting, or any other flooring if it’s covering the structure’s foundation.\\nMove any items far enough that they won’t get in your way while you’re working.\\nMake sure there’s a clear path to the storm shelter area and it can be accessed quickly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Calculate 7 square feet (0.65 m) for each person.\", \"描述\": \"FEMA recommendations state that there needs to be enough floor space for each person to occupy the shelter for the duration of the tornado or hurricane. Count each person that you believe may need to use the shelter in an emergency and multiply that by 7 square feet (0.65 m) to find the total area your shelter needs to cover.\\nFor example, if you have a family of 4 people, then you would need a space that covers an area of 28 square feet (2.6 m).\\nConsider adding an additional person or two into your calculations in case you need more space.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure the length of your storm shelter walls.\", \"描述\": \"The formula for finding the area of a square is to multiply the length of 1 side by the width of 1 side. Find the lengths of your walls based on the square footage or meters that you need. Then, use a ruler or tape measure to measure the lengths on the ground.\\nA square shaped shelter will provide the strongest protection against a storm.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards the lengths of your walls.\", \"描述\": \"Take 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards, measure the length of your walls and mark the measurements on the boards with a pencil or marker. Then, use a circular saw to cut the boards to size.\\nYou can also measure your walls and purchase pre-cut boards that fit your measurements.\\nAsk an employee at the hardware or home improvement store that you purchase your boards from to cut them to size for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill 5.5 in (14 cm) holes in the boards and concrete with a hammer drill.\", \"描述\": \"A hammer drill is a powerful tool that will allow you to drill into the concrete foundation. Drill holes spaced out about 12 inches (30 cm) apart through both of the boards and into the concrete beneath them.\\nThe holes will be needed so you can attach the anchor bolts.\\nStart the drill slowly and bring it up to full speed to drive through the boards and into the foundation.\\nYou can rent hammer drills from home improvement stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Anchor the boards to the slab with 5.5 in (14 cm) anchor bolts.\", \"描述\": \"Align the boards so the holes line up with the ones in the slab. Slide a nut on the threaded end of the anchor bolt to protect it and use a hammer to knock the bolt into the holes. Then, tighten the nut to secure the boards to the concrete slab. Install anchor bolts into all of the holes you drilled in the slab.\\nUse a wrench to tighten the bolts as much as you can so the boards are securely fastened.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards into the ceiling above the slab.\", \"描述\": \"Line up 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards directly above the boards anchored on the ground. Use 6 in (15 cm) wood screws to attach them to the ceiling above the slab.\\nYou’ll need the boards in the ceiling in order to install your wall studs.\\nMake sure the boards are secure in the ceiling.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach studs from the floor frame to the ceiling with concrete nails.\", \"描述\": \"Take 2 by 6 in (5.1 by 15.2 cm) boards with a length that reaches from the framing board on the slab to the board on the ceiling. Install a double layer of the boards spaced out 12 inches (30 cm) using 6 in (15 cm) wood screws.\\nInstall at least 2 screws for each end of the stud.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Secure the studs to the ceiling with hurricane ties.\", \"描述\": \"Hurricane ties are metal fasteners that are secured to wall studs to allow them to resist the force of hurricane-strength winds. Slide the hurricane ties over the studs where they connect to the boards on the ceiling and nail or screw them into place.\\nUse 1 hurricane tie for each stud to make the walls strong enough to withstand strong winds.\\nYou can find hurricane ties at hardware stores, at home improvement stores, and online.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Drill 14-gauge steel sheets onto the studs of 3 of the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Take a power drill and use #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws to attach the steel sheets to the wall studs to create a solid structure. Drive the screws through the sheet and into the wooden studs.\\nYou can find 14-gauge steel sheets at roofing supply stores, at home improvement stores, and online.\\nDo not install metal sheeting over the wall where you plan to install the door at this point.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Nail 2 layers of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood over the steel sheeting.\", \"描述\": \"Place a sheet of plywood over the steel sheeting and drive #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws through sheets and into the wall studs with a power drill. Cover the metal sheeting completely with a layer of the plywood, then attach a second layer for additional support.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Door\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use a door assembly rated to withstand tornadoes.\", \"描述\": \"A door failure can lead to serious injury or death during a catastrophe. Choose a door assembly that includes locks, hinges, frame, and attachment devices that have been tested to withstand the wind, pressure, and impact of serious storms like tornadoes and hurricanes.\\nStorm shelter doors are heavy and expensive, but common steel doors that are often used in residential and commercial construction can’t withstand the impact of tornadoes and hurricanes.\\nYou may be able to find storm-rated doors at home improvement or hardware stores, but you may need to go online to order a specialized storm room door.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and mark the size of the door frame on the open stud wall.\", \"描述\": \"Use the measurements of the door you plan to install so you can create an opening that will fit the frame. Measure your door with a ruler or tape measure, then measure the height and width on the studs of the open wall. Use a pencil or marker to mark where you need to cut away the studs. \\nMake sure the door frame is at least 7 feet (2.1 m) tall so you can fit through it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut away the studs with a circular saw to fit the door frame.\", \"描述\": \"Cut evenly along the lines that you marked on the studs to fit your door frame. Remove just enough of the studs to accommodate your door frame. \\nYou can lightly sand the cut edges of the studs with 180-grit sandpaper if they’re jagged or uneven.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the door in the opening according to the manufacturer’s directions.\", \"描述\": \"Position the frame in the opening and then nail it into place with casing nails. Then, install the door by attaching the hinges to the frames as directed by the manufacturer’s directions. Make sure the door is level and the hinges are secure in the frame. Install any additional specialized attachment pieces that are directed. \\nUse any screws or nails that are included in the door assembly.\\nOpen and close the door to make sure it’s working properly.\\nUse a level to make sure the frame of the door is even.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cover the open wall with steel sheets and 2 layers of plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Once the door is installed, place steel sheets over the open studs and secure them by driving #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws into each of the corners. Then, cover the sheets with plywood and drive #10X2-inch (#10X5.2 cm) screws through them into the wooden studs to secure them. Install an additional layer of plywood to complete the wall.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,571 |
How to Build a Straight Form for Concrete
|
1. Steps
1-1. Lay out the corner positions of the slab using stakes and string lines.
A builder's level is ideal for establishing the grade of the top of concrete, but an inexpensive line level will give decent results on short spans.
1-2. Measure diagonally on square and rectangular slabs from corner to corner, shifting parallel sides until the diagonal measurements are equal, while the lengths of the sides remain the desired widths.
For simple shapes and small size slabs, this "working line" is sufficient, but for complex shapes and large critical layouts, "batter boards" should be used so that the established building lines will be available to recheck layout as forming progresses.
1-3. Place the form board starting at one corner alongside the string line, staking it down about ⁄8 inch (0.3 cm) from the line with sharpened wood stakes.
The thickness of the slab will determine the spacing of the stakes, as well as the nominal dimension of the forming lumber. As an example, a 1X4 pine board is usually stiff enough to support a 4 inch (10.2 cm) concrete placement (pour), where an 8 to 12 inch (20.3 to 30.5 cm) slab thickness will require 2 inch (5.1 cm) dimension lumber of a width equal to the height. To insure ease of forming, select straight, flat lumber with minimal knots at the lumberyard.
1-4. Stake 4 inch (10.2 cm) slabs a minimum of 32 inches (81.3 cm) on center, and deep enough to firmly support the form, depending on the stability of the soil beneath the form.
For thicker slabs, decrease your stake spacing, a 12 inch (30.5 cm) slab will need to be staked no more than 24 inches (61.0 cm) on center. Nail the forms to the stakes level with and almost touching the string line.
1-5. Pack the soil around the stakes to lean the form in or out if needed to align it with the string line, and if it is necessary, place a gauge block to hold the string clear of the form and gauge the form at frequent intervals to assure the form is straight.
1-6. Drive another row of stakes behind the form 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) for thicker slabs, and nail a kicker, or 2x4 board from the offset stake to the side of the stake nailed to the form to keep it stable.
When placing the concrete, you may want to restring each side to make sure the weight of the concrete hasn't bowed the form, and these stakes can be wedged out to correct any bows.
Tips
Check alignment of forms by eyeballing them, that is, bending down so that you can sight down the edge of the form.
The straighter the lumber you use to form, the easier it will be to align it.
Use a sledgehammer that fits you. 20 pound sledges are far too heavy for most people, an 8 pound is a common choice, and many people cut the handle down to 30 inches (76.2 cm) or less for better control.
Warnings
The only hazards normally encountered in this type of work are splinters,[5]
X
Research source
missed blows with the hammer, and nails flying. In the workplace, safety requirements recommend gloves, long pants, boots, and safety glasses in this operation.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:08",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Lay out the corner positions of the slab using stakes and string lines.\\nA builder's level is ideal for establishing the grade of the top of concrete, but an inexpensive line level will give decent results on short spans.\\n1-2. Measure diagonally on square and rectangular slabs from corner to corner, shifting parallel sides until the diagonal measurements are equal, while the lengths of the sides remain the desired widths.\\nFor simple shapes and small size slabs, this \\\"working line\\\" is sufficient, but for complex shapes and large critical layouts, \\\"batter boards\\\" should be used so that the established building lines will be available to recheck layout as forming progresses.\\n1-3. Place the form board starting at one corner alongside the string line, staking it down about ⁄8 inch (0.3 cm) from the line with sharpened wood stakes.\\nThe thickness of the slab will determine the spacing of the stakes, as well as the nominal dimension of the forming lumber. As an example, a 1X4 pine board is usually stiff enough to support a 4 inch (10.2 cm) concrete placement (pour), where an 8 to 12 inch (20.3 to 30.5 cm) slab thickness will require 2 inch (5.1 cm) dimension lumber of a width equal to the height. To insure ease of forming, select straight, flat lumber with minimal knots at the lumberyard.\\n1-4. Stake 4 inch (10.2 cm) slabs a minimum of 32 inches (81.3 cm) on center, and deep enough to firmly support the form, depending on the stability of the soil beneath the form.\\nFor thicker slabs, decrease your stake spacing, a 12 inch (30.5 cm) slab will need to be staked no more than 24 inches (61.0 cm) on center. Nail the forms to the stakes level with and almost touching the string line.\\n1-5. Pack the soil around the stakes to lean the form in or out if needed to align it with the string line, and if it is necessary, place a gauge block to hold the string clear of the form and gauge the form at frequent intervals to assure the form is straight.\\n\\n1-6. Drive another row of stakes behind the form 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) for thicker slabs, and nail a kicker, or 2x4 board from the offset stake to the side of the stake nailed to the form to keep it stable.\\nWhen placing the concrete, you may want to restring each side to make sure the weight of the concrete hasn't bowed the form, and these stakes can be wedged out to correct any bows.\\nTips\\nCheck alignment of forms by eyeballing them, that is, bending down so that you can sight down the edge of the form.\\nThe straighter the lumber you use to form, the easier it will be to align it.\\nUse a sledgehammer that fits you. 20 pound sledges are far too heavy for most people, an 8 pound is a common choice, and many people cut the handle down to 30 inches (76.2 cm) or less for better control.\\nWarnings\\nThe only hazards normally encountered in this type of work are splinters,[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n missed blows with the hammer, and nails flying. In the workplace, safety requirements recommend gloves, long pants, boots, and safety glasses in this operation.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a straight form for concrete is fairly simple as long as the correct techniques are used. The depth and width of the concrete placement determine the bracing and forming material required. This article will refer to a slab form, wall forms have completely different requirements.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out the corner positions of the slab using stakes and string lines.\", \"描述\": \"A builder's level is ideal for establishing the grade of the top of concrete, but an inexpensive line level will give decent results on short spans.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure diagonally on square and rectangular slabs from corner to corner, shifting parallel sides until the diagonal measurements are equal, while the lengths of the sides remain the desired widths.\", \"描述\": \"For simple shapes and small size slabs, this \\\"working line\\\" is sufficient, but for complex shapes and large critical layouts, \\\"batter boards\\\" should be used so that the established building lines will be available to recheck layout as forming progresses.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the form board starting at one corner alongside the string line, staking it down about ⁄8 inch (0.3 cm) from the line with sharpened wood stakes.\", \"描述\": \"The thickness of the slab will determine the spacing of the stakes, as well as the nominal dimension of the forming lumber. As an example, a 1X4 pine board is usually stiff enough to support a 4 inch (10.2 cm) concrete placement (pour), where an 8 to 12 inch (20.3 to 30.5 cm) slab thickness will require 2 inch (5.1 cm) dimension lumber of a width equal to the height. To insure ease of forming, select straight, flat lumber with minimal knots at the lumberyard.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stake 4 inch (10.2 cm) slabs a minimum of 32 inches (81.3 cm) on center, and deep enough to firmly support the form, depending on the stability of the soil beneath the form.\", \"描述\": \"For thicker slabs, decrease your stake spacing, a 12 inch (30.5 cm) slab will need to be staked no more than 24 inches (61.0 cm) on center. Nail the forms to the stakes level with and almost touching the string line.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pack the soil around the stakes to lean the form in or out if needed to align it with the string line, and if it is necessary, place a gauge block to hold the string clear of the form and gauge the form at frequent intervals to assure the form is straight.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drive another row of stakes behind the form 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) for thicker slabs, and nail a kicker, or 2x4 board from the offset stake to the side of the stake nailed to the form to keep it stable.\", \"描述\": \"When placing the concrete, you may want to restring each side to make sure the weight of the concrete hasn't bowed the form, and these stakes can be wedged out to correct any bows.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Check alignment of forms by eyeballing them, that is, bending down so that you can sight down the edge of the form.\\n\", \"The straighter the lumber you use to form, the easier it will be to align it.\\n\", \"Use a sledgehammer that fits you. 20 pound sledges are far too heavy for most people, an 8 pound is a common choice, and many people cut the handle down to 30 inches (76.2 cm) or less for better control.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"The only hazards normally encountered in this type of work are splinters,[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n missed blows with the hammer, and nails flying. In the workplace, safety requirements recommend gloves, long pants, boots, and safety glasses in this operation.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,572 |
How to Build a Straw Bale House
|
1. Steps
1-1. Make a plan.
How big? How many rooms? What services do you want? Where are the windows and doors going to go?
Draw up the floor plan. On your diagram, you should roughly sketch the room layouts and locate the drain lines precisely (for concrete slab) where the shower, bathtub and toilet drain connections will be (wood floors with a crawl space allows easier changes of such locations).
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Each section of the exterior wall should be a multiple of the standard bale length you plan to use. This will allow you to minimize the number of bales that you cut and will also minimize waste.
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1-2. Decide what type of base you will use to support the floor of the first story.
Typical choices are a concrete pad or a timber base consisting of a double outside band with center beam(s) supported by columns and connected by floor joists on 16" centers. If you opt for the traditional wood frame, check your local building code for the dimensions of each frame element.
1-3. Prepare the foundation footings to be below the frost line in cold climates, and floor to be level, on an attractive slope or level ground (easier).
Check your local building codes for the size and composition of exterior wall foundation. Fresh water plumbing, electrical wiring and natural gas pipes will be added above the slab, under timber floors, in walls or above ceilings.
1-4. Build a frame of timber or metal.
The frame transfers the load of the roof down on to the foundation and should be strong enough for this purpose. You can cut in 1X4 inch bracing "straps" (set in the thickness of the 1X4) into timber outer stud-walls (posts or pillars) diagonally from the corners near the floor into the top plate -- or 2X4 inch diagonal braces nailed or bolted between vertical elements -- to prevent lateral movement within the frame, and the base of each upright timber should be anchored well to the foundation. Cables may be stretched through the bales of the structure, if desired for stability, to share stresses of possible bulging or shifting of bales.
1-5. Stay dry during construction by putting the roof on before going any further.
Put the roof on before adding the wall bales because you don't want your bales to get soaked with rain, snow or ice.
1-6. Make straw bale walls, not using hay, but using straw.
Straw is from harvested grain stalks (never use bales of grass). These need to remain dry, less than 20% moisture content, and tightly bound to prevent moist air (including fog) getting in before plastering. Both factors are important to prevent the rotting of the bales after construction. To build the wall, you start by sharpening some staves (inch thick willow stems) and then securing them vertically in the wood or concrete base (you will need to drill a hole, or perhaps poke them in when the concrete is still wet). Bales should then be further reinforced with "U" shaped willow stems that must be bent while the stems are green (or use another kind of straight staves, and bendable pipe for U shape ones).
Make U shaped staves: Select a one meter willow stave and mark the stave at 33 centimeter (13 in) from each end, take a big hammer and bash the green stave on these marks until the fibers of the wood are mashed, split and softened. These bashed areas are then bendable; bend the stave into U shape and then get to work. Each layer (or course) of bales are stacked up and pinning them until you have reached your desired height, during this process staves of willow should be driven down through alternate bails to fix it to the bail below. The U staves are use to attach between lined up blocks. This is especially important on the top course. When the desired height has been reached some kind of strap can be placed around the entire wall (top to bottom) to add further stability and strength, but not stressed extremely tightly.
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1-7. Plaster the walls.
There are many types of soft plaster that can be used, some based on formulations of locally available materials. Choose the best one by balancing availability, cost and effectiveness for your climate. Apply with traditional plastering tools for a smooth finish or with your hands for a rustic finish. Make sure, though to cover every last bit of exposed straw: None should be showing, unplastered. Otherwise fire is more easily started, and dampness or vermin can get in.
1-8. Put in the windows and doors.
You should have left holes for these, bridged with lintels (horizontal headers which support the weight above each opening for a window or door). Install the window and door casings, securing them to framing posts or to plastered walls outfitted with staves.
1-9. Apply breathable paints.
Look for mineral silicate paint that is free of artificial resins, petroleum solvents and biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant. Applying breathable paints is no different than applying conventional paints, although you need to follow manufacturer guidance as products do vary somewhat. To prepare for painting, make sure that the walls are sound, clean, dry, and free of oils.
The exterior should be painted with breathable paint so that moisture can escape the walls. Paints are rated in Sd values: Paints with high Sd values have are detrimental to the underlying surface, as they do not allow it to breathe and dry out. Most non breathable paints will not disclose an Sd value as they can be much higher than 3. Paints with an Sd value less than 0.1 offer adequate breathability for most straw bale/plaster applications.
Tips
A 23-inch-thick straw-bale wall has an R-value of about R-33. And, since virtually all straw-bale walls are plastered on both sides, these walls are relatively airtight.[7]
X
Research source
There are many articles online about designing straw bale building, construction, and techniques that you will enjoy and should find useful. You can sign up for a "Free Straw Bale E-Course". Watch "Introductory Straw Bale Video" and read FAQs. Visit various straw bale photo galleries.[8]
X
Research source
Merrily throwing clay onto the bale walls seems like so much fun, you may want to build a starter house to vent your feelings about the housing market prices and collapse thing.[9]
X
Research source
Warnings
Make sure you follow health and safety guidelines and regulations to avoid hurting yourself, helpers or children, etc..
This knowledge is not definitive, it is just here as guidance; always get a second opinion.
Always make sure to choose a location with the materials (where clay and willow stems are available) and where such building is legal.
Always consult a structural engineer where building permits are required, before building anything. Hay bale construction is often permitted in rural areas, but not in the usual towns and cities.
Permits: Get the relevant planning and the required building permits.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:09",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Make a plan.\\nHow big? How many rooms? What services do you want? Where are the windows and doors going to go?\\nDraw up the floor plan. On your diagram, you should roughly sketch the room layouts and locate the drain lines precisely (for concrete slab) where the shower, bathtub and toilet drain connections will be (wood floors with a crawl space allows easier changes of such locations).\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/06\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/06\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid489058-v4-728px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":306,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":485,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nEach section of the exterior wall should be a multiple of the standard bale length you plan to use. This will allow you to minimize the number of bales that you cut and will also minimize waste.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/fa\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/fa\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid489058-v4-728px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":306,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":485,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-2. Decide what type of base you will use to support the floor of the first story.\\nTypical choices are a concrete pad or a timber base consisting of a double outside band with center beam(s) supported by columns and connected by floor joists on 16\\\" centers. If you opt for the traditional wood frame, check your local building code for the dimensions of each frame element.\\n1-3. Prepare the foundation footings to be below the frost line in cold climates, and floor to be level, on an attractive slope or level ground (easier).\\nCheck your local building codes for the size and composition of exterior wall foundation. Fresh water plumbing, electrical wiring and natural gas pipes will be added above the slab, under timber floors, in walls or above ceilings.\\n1-4. Build a frame of timber or metal.\\nThe frame transfers the load of the roof down on to the foundation and should be strong enough for this purpose. You can cut in 1X4 inch bracing \\\"straps\\\" (set in the thickness of the 1X4) into timber outer stud-walls (posts or pillars) diagonally from the corners near the floor into the top plate -- or 2X4 inch diagonal braces nailed or bolted between vertical elements -- to prevent lateral movement within the frame, and the base of each upright timber should be anchored well to the foundation. Cables may be stretched through the bales of the structure, if desired for stability, to share stresses of possible bulging or shifting of bales.\\n1-5. Stay dry during construction by putting the roof on before going any further.\\nPut the roof on before adding the wall bales because you don't want your bales to get soaked with rain, snow or ice.\\n1-6. Make straw bale walls, not using hay, but using straw.\\nStraw is from harvested grain stalks (never use bales of grass). These need to remain dry, less than 20% moisture content, and tightly bound to prevent moist air (including fog) getting in before plastering. Both factors are important to prevent the rotting of the bales after construction. To build the wall, you start by sharpening some staves (inch thick willow stems) and then securing them vertically in the wood or concrete base (you will need to drill a hole, or perhaps poke them in when the concrete is still wet). Bales should then be further reinforced with \\\"U\\\" shaped willow stems that must be bent while the stems are green (or use another kind of straight staves, and bendable pipe for U shape ones).\\nMake U shaped staves: Select a one meter willow stave and mark the stave at 33 centimeter (13 in) from each end, take a big hammer and bash the green stave on these marks until the fibers of the wood are mashed, split and softened. These bashed areas are then bendable; bend the stave into U shape and then get to work. Each layer (or course) of bales are stacked up and pinning them until you have reached your desired height, during this process staves of willow should be driven down through alternate bails to fix it to the bail below. The U staves are use to attach between lined up blocks. This is especially important on the top course. When the desired height has been reached some kind of strap can be placed around the entire wall (top to bottom) to add further stability and strength, but not stressed extremely tightly.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2b\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-6Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-6Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2b\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-6Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid489058-v4-728px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-6Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-7. Plaster the walls.\\nThere are many types of soft plaster that can be used, some based on formulations of locally available materials. Choose the best one by balancing availability, cost and effectiveness for your climate. Apply with traditional plastering tools for a smooth finish or with your hands for a rustic finish. Make sure, though to cover every last bit of exposed straw: None should be showing, unplastered. Otherwise fire is more easily started, and dampness or vermin can get in.\\n1-8. Put in the windows and doors.\\nYou should have left holes for these, bridged with lintels (horizontal headers which support the weight above each opening for a window or door). Install the window and door casings, securing them to framing posts or to plastered walls outfitted with staves.\\n1-9. Apply breathable paints.\\nLook for mineral silicate paint that is free of artificial resins, petroleum solvents and biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant. Applying breathable paints is no different than applying conventional paints, although you need to follow manufacturer guidance as products do vary somewhat. To prepare for painting, make sure that the walls are sound, clean, dry, and free of oils.\\nThe exterior should be painted with breathable paint so that moisture can escape the walls. Paints are rated in Sd values: Paints with high Sd values have are detrimental to the underlying surface, as they do not allow it to breathe and dry out. Most non breathable paints will not disclose an Sd value as they can be much higher than 3. Paints with an Sd value less than 0.1 offer adequate breathability for most straw bale/plaster applications.\\nTips\\nA 23-inch-thick straw-bale wall has an R-value of about R-33. And, since virtually all straw-bale walls are plastered on both sides, these walls are relatively airtight.[7]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nThere are many articles online about designing straw bale building, construction, and techniques that you will enjoy and should find useful. You can sign up for a \\\"Free Straw Bale E-Course\\\". Watch \\\"Introductory Straw Bale Video\\\" and read FAQs. Visit various straw bale photo galleries.[8]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nMerrily throwing clay onto the bale walls seems like so much fun, you may want to build a starter house to vent your feelings about the housing market prices and collapse thing.[9]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWarnings\\nMake sure you follow health and safety guidelines and regulations to avoid hurting yourself, helpers or children, etc..\\nThis knowledge is not definitive, it is just here as guidance; always get a second opinion.\\nAlways make sure to choose a location with the materials (where clay and willow stems are available) and where such building is legal.\\nAlways consult a structural engineer where building permits are required, before building anything. Hay bale construction is often permitted in rural areas, but not in the usual towns and cities.\\nPermits: Get the relevant planning and the required building permits.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a straw bale and plaster house is a low-cost and environmentally friendly way to create a home. This guide covers the materials and methods you might use to build a straw bale house, a house that can last hundreds of years, is energy efficient and is cheap to maintain. For simplicity, this article will not include instruction on the installation of services such as natural gas, electricity or water and sewer: It covers only the details about how to build the shell.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a plan.\", \"描述\": \"How big? How many rooms? What services do you want? Where are the windows and doors going to go?\\nDraw up the floor plan. On your diagram, you should roughly sketch the room layouts and locate the drain lines precisely (for concrete slab) where the shower, bathtub and toilet drain connections will be (wood floors with a crawl space allows easier changes of such locations).\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/06\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/06\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid489058-v4-728px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":306,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":485,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nEach section of the exterior wall should be a multiple of the standard bale length you plan to use. This will allow you to minimize the number of bales that you cut and will also minimize waste.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/fa\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/fa\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid489058-v4-728px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":306,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":485,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide what type of base you will use to support the floor of the first story.\", \"描述\": \"Typical choices are a concrete pad or a timber base consisting of a double outside band with center beam(s) supported by columns and connected by floor joists on 16\\\" centers. If you opt for the traditional wood frame, check your local building code for the dimensions of each frame element.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare the foundation footings to be below the frost line in cold climates, and floor to be level, on an attractive slope or level ground (easier).\", \"描述\": \"Check your local building codes for the size and composition of exterior wall foundation. Fresh water plumbing, electrical wiring and natural gas pipes will be added above the slab, under timber floors, in walls or above ceilings.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build a frame of timber or metal.\", \"描述\": \"The frame transfers the load of the roof down on to the foundation and should be strong enough for this purpose. You can cut in 1X4 inch bracing \\\"straps\\\" (set in the thickness of the 1X4) into timber outer stud-walls (posts or pillars) diagonally from the corners near the floor into the top plate -- or 2X4 inch diagonal braces nailed or bolted between vertical elements -- to prevent lateral movement within the frame, and the base of each upright timber should be anchored well to the foundation. Cables may be stretched through the bales of the structure, if desired for stability, to share stresses of possible bulging or shifting of bales.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Stay dry during construction by putting the roof on before going any further.\", \"描述\": \"Put the roof on before adding the wall bales because you don't want your bales to get soaked with rain, snow or ice.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make straw bale walls, not using hay, but using straw.\", \"描述\": \"Straw is from harvested grain stalks (never use bales of grass). These need to remain dry, less than 20% moisture content, and tightly bound to prevent moist air (including fog) getting in before plastering. Both factors are important to prevent the rotting of the bales after construction. To build the wall, you start by sharpening some staves (inch thick willow stems) and then securing them vertically in the wood or concrete base (you will need to drill a hole, or perhaps poke them in when the concrete is still wet). Bales should then be further reinforced with \\\"U\\\" shaped willow stems that must be bent while the stems are green (or use another kind of straight staves, and bendable pipe for U shape ones).\\nMake U shaped staves: Select a one meter willow stave and mark the stave at 33 centimeter (13 in) from each end, take a big hammer and bash the green stave on these marks until the fibers of the wood are mashed, split and softened. These bashed areas are then bendable; bend the stave into U shape and then get to work. Each layer (or course) of bales are stacked up and pinning them until you have reached your desired height, during this process staves of willow should be driven down through alternate bails to fix it to the bail below. The U staves are use to attach between lined up blocks. This is especially important on the top course. When the desired height has been reached some kind of strap can be placed around the entire wall (top to bottom) to add further stability and strength, but not stressed extremely tightly.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2b\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-6Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-6Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2b\\\\/Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-6Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid489058-v4-728px-Build-a-Straw-Bale-House-Step-6Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Plaster the walls.\", \"描述\": \"There are many types of soft plaster that can be used, some based on formulations of locally available materials. Choose the best one by balancing availability, cost and effectiveness for your climate. Apply with traditional plastering tools for a smooth finish or with your hands for a rustic finish. Make sure, though to cover every last bit of exposed straw: None should be showing, unplastered. Otherwise fire is more easily started, and dampness or vermin can get in.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Put in the windows and doors.\", \"描述\": \"You should have left holes for these, bridged with lintels (horizontal headers which support the weight above each opening for a window or door). Install the window and door casings, securing them to framing posts or to plastered walls outfitted with staves.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Apply breathable paints.\", \"描述\": \"Look for mineral silicate paint that is free of artificial resins, petroleum solvents and biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant. Applying breathable paints is no different than applying conventional paints, although you need to follow manufacturer guidance as products do vary somewhat. To prepare for painting, make sure that the walls are sound, clean, dry, and free of oils.\\nThe exterior should be painted with breathable paint so that moisture can escape the walls. Paints are rated in Sd values: Paints with high Sd values have are detrimental to the underlying surface, as they do not allow it to breathe and dry out. Most non breathable paints will not disclose an Sd value as they can be much higher than 3. Paints with an Sd value less than 0.1 offer adequate breathability for most straw bale/plaster applications.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"A 23-inch-thick straw-bale wall has an R-value of about R-33. And, since virtually all straw-bale walls are plastered on both sides, these walls are relatively airtight.[7]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"There are many articles online about designing straw bale building, construction, and techniques that you will enjoy and should find useful. You can sign up for a \\\"Free Straw Bale E-Course\\\". Watch \\\"Introductory Straw Bale Video\\\" and read FAQs. Visit various straw bale photo galleries.[8]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Merrily throwing clay onto the bale walls seems like so much fun, you may want to build a starter house to vent your feelings about the housing market prices and collapse thing.[9]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure you follow health and safety guidelines and regulations to avoid hurting yourself, helpers or children, etc..\\n\", \"This knowledge is not definitive, it is just here as guidance; always get a second opinion.\\n\", \"Always make sure to choose a location with the materials (where clay and willow stems are available) and where such building is legal.\\n\", \"Always consult a structural engineer where building permits are required, before building anything. Hay bale construction is often permitted in rural areas, but not in the usual towns and cities.\\n\", \"Permits: Get the relevant planning and the required building permits.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,573 |
How to Build a Straw Bridge
|
1. Making a Strong Bridge
1-1. Purchase 24 straight straws.
You will need 24 plastic drinking straws to build this bridge. Purchase these from your local supermarket.
Make sure that the straws aren’t bendy. If you can only find bendy straws, cut of the bendy portion of the straw and make a smaller bridge.
If you want a longer bridge, purchase 34 straws.
1-2. Push the tip of a straw 1.5 in (3.8 cm) inside a separate straw.
Push down on one end of a straw to make the opening narrower and push it into another straw. This extends the length of the bridge, whilst maintaining its strength. These straws will form the base of the bridge.
1-3. Connect 14 more straws to create a bridge that is 8 straws wide.
These straws will form the base of the bridge. Use the method in 1.2 to connect 14 more straws into chains. Make a total of 8 chains. If you need a wider bridge, connect more straws together.
If you want a longer bridge, squeeze another straw and push it into one of the openings of the existing bridge base. Repeat this for each of the straws on the bridge base.
1-4. Tape the connection point on each straw chain.
Carefully pick up one of the straw chains you have created. Cut a small piece of tape that is approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) and wrap it around the joining point of the straws. Make sure that the tape touches the surface of both straws: otherwise, it won’t hold them in place.
If you have added a third straw to the length of the bridge, you will need to tape the second connection point as well.
1-5. Tape the 8 straw chains together to form the bridge base.
Push the 8 straw chains together so that they are all the same height and are lying flat on the ground. Cut a larger piece of tape that is approximately 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) and place it width-ways over the middle point of the bridge base.
1-6. Cut 8 straws to the width of the bridge.
Hold the straws against the base and use a permanent marker to mark how long the straws needs to be in order to span the width of the base. Use a pair of scissors to cut the straws. These straws are used to support the bridge and make it stronger.
Use 2 extra straws if you are building a longer bridge.
1-7. Spread the cut straws across the bridge and tape them down.
These straws will help to support the bridge and allow it to hold more weight. Place the cut straws perpendicular to the base of the bridge and evenly distribute them across the bottom side of the bridge base. Cut a small piece of tape and stick it over the piece of cut straw and onto the bridge base.
Repeat this process for each supporting straw.
Use 2 pieces of tape per cut straw to increase the strength of the bridge.
1-8. Place the bridge between 2 level objects.
Turn the bridge over so that the flat side is facing upwards. Balance the ends of the bridge on 2 flat surfaces and let the your straw bridge cover the gap. Balance a toy car, or a small weight, in the middle of the bridge to prove that it is stable.
If you want a longer bridge, add more straws to the base. You will need to use extra tape to support the extra length.
Try using piles of books to balance the bridge on.
The bridge is designed to hold small items. Avoid putting heavy items on the bridge as this will cause the bridge to break. Slowly increase the weight you put on the bridge to test how much it can hold.
2. Building a Bendy Bridge
2-1. Gather 9 straight straws.
You will need 9 plastic straws to complete this bridge. Use regular length drinking straws. Purchase these from your local supermarket.
2-2. Connect 2 sets of 2 straws to make a chain.
Squeeze one end of a straw. While you are squeezing it, push it 1.5 in (3.8 cm) through the open end of a second straw. Repeat this process with the remaining 2 straws. These connected straws will form the sides of the bridge.
2-3. Wrap tape around the joining points of the connected straws.
Cut 2 small pieces of tape that are approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm). Pick up the connected straws and wrap the tape around the joining point of the straws.
This will stop the straws from coming apart when weight is put on the bridge.
2-4. Cut 3 straws in half.
Use a ruler to measure how long the straws are. Divide the length of the straws in half to find the middle point. Use a permanent marker to mark the middle point of the straws. Cut the straws in half, at the marked point, using a pair of scissors.
Make sure each straw is cut to the same length: otherwise, they won’t reach the sides of the bridge.
These straws will be used to form the base of the bridge.
2-5. Assemble the cut straws so that they form a zig-zag pattern.
Place one side of the bridge about 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) inches below the other. Assemble the cut straws between the 2 sides of the bridge so that they form a zig-zag pattern. Each straw needs to be touching both sides of the bridge.
Make sure to assemble the straws on a flat surface.
The zig-zag pattern needs to extend the entire length of the bridge. If the straws don’t reach to the end of the bridge, reduce the width of the bridge, and adjust the angles of the cut straws so the angles between the triangles are wider.
2-6. Tape the cut straws to the sides of the bridge.
Cut pieces of tape that are approximately 2.5 inches (6.4 cm). Wrap them around the side of the bridge and around the ends of the straws that form a point (i.e. the tip of the triangle). You will need to wrap the tape around a few times to secure the straws in place.
You can use pins to secure the straws in place instead of tape. Make sure you are careful not to prick yourself if you use pins.
2-7. Place the bridge between 2 flat surfaces.
Balance the ends of the bridge between 2 flat surfaces and let the your straw bridge cover the gap. Stacks of big blocks or books work well.
If you feel like a challenge, add more straws to your bridge to extend its length. You may need to use extra tape and cut straws to support the extra lengths.
Try using piles of books to balance the bridge on.
2-8. Measure how much weight the bridge can hold.
Place a small weight on the middle of the bridge. If the bridge can hold the weight, add a little bit more weight. Keep adding weight until the bridge collapses. Measure how much weight the bridge held and see if you can build another bridge that holds more weight next time.
Have a competition with your friends and see whose bridge can hold the most weight.
Warnings
Ask an adult or older sibling to help you cut the straws.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:09",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Strong Bridge\\n1-1. Purchase 24 straight straws.\\nYou will need 24 plastic drinking straws to build this bridge. Purchase these from your local supermarket.\\nMake sure that the straws aren’t bendy. If you can only find bendy straws, cut of the bendy portion of the straw and make a smaller bridge.\\nIf you want a longer bridge, purchase 34 straws.\\n1-2. Push the tip of a straw 1.5 in (3.8 cm) inside a separate straw.\\nPush down on one end of a straw to make the opening narrower and push it into another straw. This extends the length of the bridge, whilst maintaining its strength. These straws will form the base of the bridge.\\n1-3. Connect 14 more straws to create a bridge that is 8 straws wide.\\nThese straws will form the base of the bridge. Use the method in 1.2 to connect 14 more straws into chains. Make a total of 8 chains. If you need a wider bridge, connect more straws together.\\nIf you want a longer bridge, squeeze another straw and push it into one of the openings of the existing bridge base. Repeat this for each of the straws on the bridge base.\\n1-4. Tape the connection point on each straw chain.\\nCarefully pick up one of the straw chains you have created. Cut a small piece of tape that is approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) and wrap it around the joining point of the straws. Make sure that the tape touches the surface of both straws: otherwise, it won’t hold them in place.\\nIf you have added a third straw to the length of the bridge, you will need to tape the second connection point as well.\\n1-5. Tape the 8 straw chains together to form the bridge base.\\nPush the 8 straw chains together so that they are all the same height and are lying flat on the ground. Cut a larger piece of tape that is approximately 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) and place it width-ways over the middle point of the bridge base.\\n1-6. Cut 8 straws to the width of the bridge.\\nHold the straws against the base and use a permanent marker to mark how long the straws needs to be in order to span the width of the base. Use a pair of scissors to cut the straws. These straws are used to support the bridge and make it stronger.\\nUse 2 extra straws if you are building a longer bridge.\\n1-7. Spread the cut straws across the bridge and tape them down.\\nThese straws will help to support the bridge and allow it to hold more weight. Place the cut straws perpendicular to the base of the bridge and evenly distribute them across the bottom side of the bridge base. Cut a small piece of tape and stick it over the piece of cut straw and onto the bridge base.\\nRepeat this process for each supporting straw.\\nUse 2 pieces of tape per cut straw to increase the strength of the bridge.\\n1-8. Place the bridge between 2 level objects.\\nTurn the bridge over so that the flat side is facing upwards. Balance the ends of the bridge on 2 flat surfaces and let the your straw bridge cover the gap. Balance a toy car, or a small weight, in the middle of the bridge to prove that it is stable.\\nIf you want a longer bridge, add more straws to the base. You will need to use extra tape to support the extra length.\\nTry using piles of books to balance the bridge on.\\nThe bridge is designed to hold small items. Avoid putting heavy items on the bridge as this will cause the bridge to break. Slowly increase the weight you put on the bridge to test how much it can hold.\\n2. Building a Bendy Bridge\\n2-1. Gather 9 straight straws.\\nYou will need 9 plastic straws to complete this bridge. Use regular length drinking straws. Purchase these from your local supermarket.\\n2-2. Connect 2 sets of 2 straws to make a chain.\\nSqueeze one end of a straw. While you are squeezing it, push it 1.5 in (3.8 cm) through the open end of a second straw. Repeat this process with the remaining 2 straws. These connected straws will form the sides of the bridge.\\n2-3. Wrap tape around the joining points of the connected straws.\\nCut 2 small pieces of tape that are approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm). Pick up the connected straws and wrap the tape around the joining point of the straws.\\nThis will stop the straws from coming apart when weight is put on the bridge.\\n2-4. Cut 3 straws in half.\\nUse a ruler to measure how long the straws are. Divide the length of the straws in half to find the middle point. Use a permanent marker to mark the middle point of the straws. Cut the straws in half, at the marked point, using a pair of scissors.\\nMake sure each straw is cut to the same length: otherwise, they won’t reach the sides of the bridge.\\nThese straws will be used to form the base of the bridge.\\n2-5. Assemble the cut straws so that they form a zig-zag pattern.\\nPlace one side of the bridge about 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) inches below the other. Assemble the cut straws between the 2 sides of the bridge so that they form a zig-zag pattern. Each straw needs to be touching both sides of the bridge.\\nMake sure to assemble the straws on a flat surface.\\nThe zig-zag pattern needs to extend the entire length of the bridge. If the straws don’t reach to the end of the bridge, reduce the width of the bridge, and adjust the angles of the cut straws so the angles between the triangles are wider.\\n2-6. Tape the cut straws to the sides of the bridge.\\nCut pieces of tape that are approximately 2.5 inches (6.4 cm). Wrap them around the side of the bridge and around the ends of the straws that form a point (i.e. the tip of the triangle). You will need to wrap the tape around a few times to secure the straws in place.\\nYou can use pins to secure the straws in place instead of tape. Make sure you are careful not to prick yourself if you use pins.\\n2-7. Place the bridge between 2 flat surfaces.\\nBalance the ends of the bridge between 2 flat surfaces and let the your straw bridge cover the gap. Stacks of big blocks or books work well.\\nIf you feel like a challenge, add more straws to your bridge to extend its length. You may need to use extra tape and cut straws to support the extra lengths.\\nTry using piles of books to balance the bridge on.\\n2-8. Measure how much weight the bridge can hold.\\nPlace a small weight on the middle of the bridge. If the bridge can hold the weight, add a little bit more weight. Keep adding weight until the bridge collapses. Measure how much weight the bridge held and see if you can build another bridge that holds more weight next time.\\nHave a competition with your friends and see whose bridge can hold the most weight.\\nWarnings\\nAsk an adult or older sibling to help you cut the straws.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a straw bridge is a popular school project and a fun family project. Straws are quite flimsy but can form a strong bridge if you join them in the right way. Using only straws and tape, you can make a really strong bridge or a bendy bridge.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Strong Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase 24 straight straws.\", \"描述\": \"You will need 24 plastic drinking straws to build this bridge. Purchase these from your local supermarket.\\nMake sure that the straws aren’t bendy. If you can only find bendy straws, cut of the bendy portion of the straw and make a smaller bridge.\\nIf you want a longer bridge, purchase 34 straws.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Push the tip of a straw 1.5 in (3.8 cm) inside a separate straw.\", \"描述\": \"Push down on one end of a straw to make the opening narrower and push it into another straw. This extends the length of the bridge, whilst maintaining its strength. These straws will form the base of the bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect 14 more straws to create a bridge that is 8 straws wide.\", \"描述\": \"These straws will form the base of the bridge. Use the method in 1.2 to connect 14 more straws into chains. Make a total of 8 chains. If you need a wider bridge, connect more straws together.\\nIf you want a longer bridge, squeeze another straw and push it into one of the openings of the existing bridge base. Repeat this for each of the straws on the bridge base.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tape the connection point on each straw chain.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully pick up one of the straw chains you have created. Cut a small piece of tape that is approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) and wrap it around the joining point of the straws. Make sure that the tape touches the surface of both straws: otherwise, it won’t hold them in place.\\nIf you have added a third straw to the length of the bridge, you will need to tape the second connection point as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tape the 8 straw chains together to form the bridge base.\", \"描述\": \"Push the 8 straw chains together so that they are all the same height and are lying flat on the ground. Cut a larger piece of tape that is approximately 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) and place it width-ways over the middle point of the bridge base.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut 8 straws to the width of the bridge.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the straws against the base and use a permanent marker to mark how long the straws needs to be in order to span the width of the base. Use a pair of scissors to cut the straws. These straws are used to support the bridge and make it stronger.\\nUse 2 extra straws if you are building a longer bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Spread the cut straws across the bridge and tape them down.\", \"描述\": \"These straws will help to support the bridge and allow it to hold more weight. Place the cut straws perpendicular to the base of the bridge and evenly distribute them across the bottom side of the bridge base. Cut a small piece of tape and stick it over the piece of cut straw and onto the bridge base.\\nRepeat this process for each supporting straw.\\nUse 2 pieces of tape per cut straw to increase the strength of the bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Place the bridge between 2 level objects.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the bridge over so that the flat side is facing upwards. Balance the ends of the bridge on 2 flat surfaces and let the your straw bridge cover the gap. Balance a toy car, or a small weight, in the middle of the bridge to prove that it is stable.\\nIf you want a longer bridge, add more straws to the base. You will need to use extra tape to support the extra length.\\nTry using piles of books to balance the bridge on.\\nThe bridge is designed to hold small items. Avoid putting heavy items on the bridge as this will cause the bridge to break. Slowly increase the weight you put on the bridge to test how much it can hold.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Bendy Bridge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather 9 straight straws.\", \"描述\": \"You will need 9 plastic straws to complete this bridge. Use regular length drinking straws. Purchase these from your local supermarket.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect 2 sets of 2 straws to make a chain.\", \"描述\": \"Squeeze one end of a straw. While you are squeezing it, push it 1.5 in (3.8 cm) through the open end of a second straw. Repeat this process with the remaining 2 straws. These connected straws will form the sides of the bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wrap tape around the joining points of the connected straws.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 2 small pieces of tape that are approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm). Pick up the connected straws and wrap the tape around the joining point of the straws.\\nThis will stop the straws from coming apart when weight is put on the bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut 3 straws in half.\", \"描述\": \"Use a ruler to measure how long the straws are. Divide the length of the straws in half to find the middle point. Use a permanent marker to mark the middle point of the straws. Cut the straws in half, at the marked point, using a pair of scissors.\\nMake sure each straw is cut to the same length: otherwise, they won’t reach the sides of the bridge.\\nThese straws will be used to form the base of the bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Assemble the cut straws so that they form a zig-zag pattern.\", \"描述\": \"Place one side of the bridge about 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) inches below the other. Assemble the cut straws between the 2 sides of the bridge so that they form a zig-zag pattern. Each straw needs to be touching both sides of the bridge.\\nMake sure to assemble the straws on a flat surface.\\nThe zig-zag pattern needs to extend the entire length of the bridge. If the straws don’t reach to the end of the bridge, reduce the width of the bridge, and adjust the angles of the cut straws so the angles between the triangles are wider.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Tape the cut straws to the sides of the bridge.\", \"描述\": \"Cut pieces of tape that are approximately 2.5 inches (6.4 cm). Wrap them around the side of the bridge and around the ends of the straws that form a point (i.e. the tip of the triangle). You will need to wrap the tape around a few times to secure the straws in place.\\nYou can use pins to secure the straws in place instead of tape. Make sure you are careful not to prick yourself if you use pins.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place the bridge between 2 flat surfaces.\", \"描述\": \"Balance the ends of the bridge between 2 flat surfaces and let the your straw bridge cover the gap. Stacks of big blocks or books work well.\\nIf you feel like a challenge, add more straws to your bridge to extend its length. You may need to use extra tape and cut straws to support the extra lengths.\\nTry using piles of books to balance the bridge on.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Measure how much weight the bridge can hold.\", \"描述\": \"Place a small weight on the middle of the bridge. If the bridge can hold the weight, add a little bit more weight. Keep adding weight until the bridge collapses. Measure how much weight the bridge held and see if you can build another bridge that holds more weight next time.\\nHave a competition with your friends and see whose bridge can hold the most weight.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Ask an adult or older sibling to help you cut the straws.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,574 |
How to Build a Stream
|
1. Laying the Foundation
1-1. Dig a top-pool or small well (40cm deep) at a higher ground level than your pond.
1-2. Construct your foundation gradually down from the top-pool into your pond, ensure the foundation is sloped steep enough to allow the water to flow freely.
1-3. If you want to create a waterfall, build steps into the foundation of your stream, (30cm in height).
1-4. At the base of each step, dig a small hole (15cm) to sink your pond liner into thereby creating a small pool where the water can fill up and flow over to the lower step.
1-5. You’ll need a strong enough water-pump (we used 2500 Gph) to pump the water up from your pond through a hose (we used 20mm for extra propulsion) into the top-pool which will feed the water down into your stream.
2. Adding the Pondliner
2-1. After you’ve constructed the foundation, run the pond liner up from your pond through the stream foundation, finishing in the top-pool.
Careful and precise fitting of the pond liner is probably the most important part of the entire process.
2-2. It’s best to fit the liner with plenty of overlap on all sides of your foundation.
2-3. Before you trim the liner to size be sure to fill your stream with water to see how rapidly your water flows and check for possible holes in the lining.
2-4. Run the hose from your pond water pump up to the top-tool, carefully hide the hose under the liner and be sure to check for kinks, again check your flow of water before covering over the hose and liner.
3. Building the Stream
3-1. Once the liner is in place, secure and bed down the edges with soil, be sure to choose soil conducive to plant growth.
3-2. If you have added steps to your stream you can build out the steps with garden slate allowing the edge of the slate to overhang creating a waterfall effect, the slate also hides the liner underneath.
3-3. Use good size rocks.
Garden rocks and stones don’t only add a great feature to your stream they help to weigh down your liner so don’t be afraid to use heavy ones.
3-4. You can cover the excess liner and soil with small stones (we used bags of ‘gold light’) and decorate the area with driftwood, logs, slate, granite and beach stones.
4. Planting for your Stream
4-1. Planting is where the real fun begins, border and embellish your water feature with a wide range of aquatic and semi-aquatic plants, we used water grass, water lilies, Japanese maple, ferns, alpine saxifrage.
4-2. Add some creative lighting.
We all know how glorious it is sit out by your pond on a summer’s day but you can make it equally beautiful by night, all one needs is some creative lighting to illuminate your garden and water feature, simple tea-lights and floating oil burners should do the trick.
4-3. Let it grow.
While it’s important to maintain and manage your garden pond and stream, it’s just as important to ‘let your garden grow’. Do the hard work and planting early in the season and sit back and enjoy the rewards through the summer.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:09",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Laying the Foundation\\n1-1. Dig a top-pool or small well (40cm deep) at a higher ground level than your pond.\\n\\n1-2. Construct your foundation gradually down from the top-pool into your pond, ensure the foundation is sloped steep enough to allow the water to flow freely.\\n\\n1-3. If you want to create a waterfall, build steps into the foundation of your stream, (30cm in height).\\n\\n1-4. At the base of each step, dig a small hole (15cm) to sink your pond liner into thereby creating a small pool where the water can fill up and flow over to the lower step.\\n\\n1-5. You’ll need a strong enough water-pump (we used 2500 Gph) to pump the water up from your pond through a hose (we used 20mm for extra propulsion) into the top-pool which will feed the water down into your stream.\\n\\n2. Adding the Pondliner\\n2-1. After you’ve constructed the foundation, run the pond liner up from your pond through the stream foundation, finishing in the top-pool.\\nCareful and precise fitting of the pond liner is probably the most important part of the entire process.\\n2-2. It’s best to fit the liner with plenty of overlap on all sides of your foundation.\\n\\n2-3. Before you trim the liner to size be sure to fill your stream with water to see how rapidly your water flows and check for possible holes in the lining.\\n\\n2-4. Run the hose from your pond water pump up to the top-tool, carefully hide the hose under the liner and be sure to check for kinks, again check your flow of water before covering over the hose and liner.\\n\\n3. Building the Stream\\n3-1. Once the liner is in place, secure and bed down the edges with soil, be sure to choose soil conducive to plant growth.\\n\\n3-2. If you have added steps to your stream you can build out the steps with garden slate allowing the edge of the slate to overhang creating a waterfall effect, the slate also hides the liner underneath.\\n\\n3-3. Use good size rocks.\\nGarden rocks and stones don’t only add a great feature to your stream they help to weigh down your liner so don’t be afraid to use heavy ones.\\n3-4. You can cover the excess liner and soil with small stones (we used bags of ‘gold light’) and decorate the area with driftwood, logs, slate, granite and beach stones.\\n\\n4. Planting for your Stream\\n4-1. Planting is where the real fun begins, border and embellish your water feature with a wide range of aquatic and semi-aquatic plants, we used water grass, water lilies, Japanese maple, ferns, alpine saxifrage.\\n\\n4-2. Add some creative lighting.\\nWe all know how glorious it is sit out by your pond on a summer’s day but you can make it equally beautiful by night, all one needs is some creative lighting to illuminate your garden and water feature, simple tea-lights and floating oil burners should do the trick.\\n4-3. Let it grow.\\nWhile it’s important to maintain and manage your garden pond and stream, it’s just as important to ‘let your garden grow’. Do the hard work and planting early in the season and sit back and enjoy the rewards through the summer.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you ever look at your garden pond and think something is missing? Well, allow us to give you some ideas to help you transform your pond into something wonderful: all you may be missing is a garden stream!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Laying the Foundation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig a top-pool or small well (40cm deep) at a higher ground level than your pond.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Construct your foundation gradually down from the top-pool into your pond, ensure the foundation is sloped steep enough to allow the water to flow freely.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"If you want to create a waterfall, build steps into the foundation of your stream, (30cm in height).\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"At the base of each step, dig a small hole (15cm) to sink your pond liner into thereby creating a small pool where the water can fill up and flow over to the lower step.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"You’ll need a strong enough water-pump (we used 2500 Gph) to pump the water up from your pond through a hose (we used 20mm for extra propulsion) into the top-pool which will feed the water down into your stream.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding the Pondliner\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"After you’ve constructed the foundation, run the pond liner up from your pond through the stream foundation, finishing in the top-pool.\", \"描述\": \"Careful and precise fitting of the pond liner is probably the most important part of the entire process.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"It’s best to fit the liner with plenty of overlap on all sides of your foundation.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Before you trim the liner to size be sure to fill your stream with water to see how rapidly your water flows and check for possible holes in the lining.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Run the hose from your pond water pump up to the top-tool, carefully hide the hose under the liner and be sure to check for kinks, again check your flow of water before covering over the hose and liner.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Stream\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Once the liner is in place, secure and bed down the edges with soil, be sure to choose soil conducive to plant growth.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"If you have added steps to your stream you can build out the steps with garden slate allowing the edge of the slate to overhang creating a waterfall effect, the slate also hides the liner underneath.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use good size rocks.\", \"描述\": \"Garden rocks and stones don’t only add a great feature to your stream they help to weigh down your liner so don’t be afraid to use heavy ones.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"You can cover the excess liner and soil with small stones (we used bags of ‘gold light’) and decorate the area with driftwood, logs, slate, granite and beach stones.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Planting for your Stream\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planting is where the real fun begins, border and embellish your water feature with a wide range of aquatic and semi-aquatic plants, we used water grass, water lilies, Japanese maple, ferns, alpine saxifrage.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add some creative lighting.\", \"描述\": \"We all know how glorious it is sit out by your pond on a summer’s day but you can make it equally beautiful by night, all one needs is some creative lighting to illuminate your garden and water feature, simple tea-lights and floating oil burners should do the trick.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Let it grow.\", \"描述\": \"While it’s important to maintain and manage your garden pond and stream, it’s just as important to ‘let your garden grow’. Do the hard work and planting early in the season and sit back and enjoy the rewards through the summer.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,575 |
How to Build a Strong Catapult
|
1. Preparing to Build
1-1. Gather the materials.
To ensure you build the best and safest catapult, find durable and strong materials to withstand the extreme forces your catapult will use when shooting objects. There are a great many materials you could use in the construction of your catapult, but at minimum you will need:
Broomstick or crank
Padding
Plywood (1/4" to 1/2" thick, 15" by 18 and 1/2")
Rope (strong, stretchy preferred,like kernmantle rope)
Screws or bolts
Weights (optional)
Wood (preferably non-flexible, like oak wood)
If using 2x4 planks collect: two pieces at 36", one piece at 30", four pieces at 15", and one piece at 18"
1-2. Contemplate base and weights.
Since your catapult utilizes such powerful forces to eject its payload, you will need a strong and sturdy platform for launching as well as a strong and stable foundation. Poor foundation can throw off your aim or cause your catapult to fail.
Torsion catapults, which is the technical name for a normal catapult, have historically been built with heavy, reinforced sides, as these would allow for heavier payload, greater tensile force, and greater stability.
1-3. Cut your plywood supports.
For the base of this catapult, you will use a 2x4 base supported with plywood triangles. To prepare your plywood supports, take one rectangular piece of plywood 1/4" to 1/2" thick, 15" by 18 and 1/2", and cut it diagonally into two equal triangles.
1-4. Choose the right material for your throwing arm.
Traditionally, spruce or fir wood were used for the throwing arm, as these woods were light and strong. Consult your local lumberyard to see if these are an affordable option and, if not, ask for some alternatives, two of which follow:
Thick PVC pipe
Metal pipe (lightweight, durable)
1-5. Cut your torsion handles.
You will need rope torsion to provide the launching force for your catapult. The more twists, the greater the torque, the more power your catapult will have. The amount of torsion (twisting) you can achieve is limited only by your strength and the strength of the materials you've used in making your catapult. To make your torsion handles, take a broomstick and cut into two 15 inch segments.
2. Forming the Base
2-1. Lay out the right side of your base.
Position your 36" 2x4 flat, longways on your workbench or another suitable sturdy surface. Place your 18" 2x4 at a right angle to your 36" piece at 15" from the end of the 36" piece and screw them into place.
2-2. Attach your plywood triangle.
Place it atop your 2x4 planks. The 18" side of your plywood will be vertical to your 36" plank, its base parallel with the 36" plank, and its diagonal will approximately span the distance between the two ends each 2x4 plank. Screw down your triangle securely to your 2x4s. This forms one base leg of your catapult.
2-3. Lay out the left side of your base and affix your other triangular plywood piece.
In the same fashion you constructed the right side, put your 36" and 18" 2x4 planks at a right angle 15" from the end of the long piece, and screw your triangular plywood piece into place atop the two 2x4 planks, with the base parallel to the 36" 2x4.
2-4. Connect the left and right sides of the base.
Using your two 15" long 2x4 planks, screw your left and right side, with the base of your triangle and base of your 36" 2x4 forming the bottom, leaving the hypotenuse (the diagonal) facing up. Use long screws to ensure your frame is sturdy.
Do not use nails for this part of your frame. Nails are sensitive to the stress your catapult will exert, and could come loose over time.
3. Forming the Arm
3-1. Turn your base right-side up.
Now that you have your frame constructed, you will begin working on constructing the throwing arm. The top side of your catapult will have the 18" vertical boards pointing straight up, and your 36" boards laying flat edgewise.
3-2. Screw in a cross brace between the sides.
At the topmost point of your 18" vertical boards, screw in another 18" piece between the two to form the cross brace of your catapult. The top of your cross brace should be level with the top of your vertical 18" 2x4 boards.
3-3. Prepare the arm.
Take your 30" 2x4 and measure 2.5" from one end. Drill a 1/2" centered hole clear on the narrow side of the board through the entire width of the 2x4.
3-4. Attach a cup or launching basket.
Screw a plastic cup to the center of the flat side of your 2x4. This should also be the opposite side from where you drilled a hole through the short side of your 2x4. Feel free to experiment with other materials and holding devices, like baskets, bowls, and cases.
3-5. Drill a hole in the base.
Drill a 1" hole in each side of the base into the end with your triangular support. This hole will need to be centered 6" from the end of the 36" piece where the end of your plywood triangle should also end. Then measure 2.5" up from the bottom edge of the device and drill.
3-6. Pad the arm.
The arm of your catapult operates by being pulled or winched back after applying tension to the rope that will be laced through the frame. Where the throwing arm of your catapult meets your cross brace, it's a good idea to add padding, like a blanket or several layers of wrapped rags. This will prevent your catapult from doing damage to itself when the arm is pulled back, released, and comes in contact with the cross brace.
4. Lacing the Arm
4-1. Lace the rope.
You will need about 20' of rope to complete the lacing process. Tie the rope around your broomstick handle, then take it through the hole in the right side of the base, through the hole you drilled in the arm of the catapult, out the opposite side of the base and back out to your second broomstick handle. Loop it around your second handle, then take it back through the frame to your first handle, where you will loop the cord again. Do this several times.
When choosing rope, look for strong material that has some stretch to it. Kernmantle rope, like parachute cord, is an excellent option.
Take your cord back and forth through the frame and arm several times to ensure your rope is securely fastened to the frame.
While lacing, don't worry about keeping the rope tight. When you turn your handles, you will tighten the rope and apply launching force.
4-2. Use an over under motion to complete lacing.
After you have run your cord through the base of your catapult and throwing arm several times to secure it to the frame and arm, starting with your second handle, bring the end of your cord around the second handle in a loop that passes through the hole in your frame and the throwing arm, passing through to the hole on the other side to loop around your first handle. Continue this motion, following each over-lacing of the arm with an under-lacing with each pass of the cord through the frame.
This should form a figure eight shape with your rope where you can clearly see the rope twisting together. The more twists you add through your over and under motion, the more tension and greater force your catapult will have.
After securing your rope to arm and frame, you should not continue threading your line through the throwing arm. To achieve the tension necessary to throw a projectile, you must finish lacing by going through the frame holes, around the broom handles in loops, and and the throwing arm.
Make sure your loops stay anchored around your broom handles.
4-3. Knot the end of your cord to the side of the arm.
When you are reaching the end of your rope, wrap it around the strings to one side of your catapult, then cross over and do the same on the other side. Now you can knot the end of your cord, ensuring it won't come lose with the added benefit of keeping your rope orderly.
4-4. Add a catch for your throwing arm.
As you twist your handles, the torsion of the rope will cause your throwing arm to ascend until its tension holds it against the cross brace. First allow your arm to rest fully back in the launching position and judge where to best install your catch, then drill a hole and insert your hook.
By installing a catch to the rear of your frame, you won't have to pull the arm back to launch your payload. Simply release the catch after applying tension, and your arm will spring forward, stopping at the cross brace and launching your payload.
4-5. Arm your catapult and apply torsion.
Your handles should now be off to each side of your catapult base, parallel to your 36" pieces and attached to the frame and throwing arm by rope. Turn the handles to create torsion in the rope. This will give the catapult tension, simply add a payload to your cup, wind your broomstick cranks, release your catch and fire.
Tips
Triangles are excellent supporting shapes to reinforce your catapult. The strongest are equilateral triangles so if you make the catapult and it is unstable, add triangular support.
Make the angle of the arm to the ground at release of projectile equal to 45 degrees unless it is released above the ground. For example, if the projectile is released at 1 meter (3.3 ft) off the ground, the optimum angle is 44.6 degrees. The optimal angle decreases as the height of the catapult increases.
Forget trying to build a catapult and build a trebuchet instead, as it is the superior siege engine and can launch 90 kilogram projectiles over 300 meters using a counterweight.
Warnings
Store this device in a safe place; children playing with a catapult without supervision could harm themselves or others.
Keep your face out of the swing of the arm of the catapult
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:09",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Build\\n1-1. Gather the materials.\\nTo ensure you build the best and safest catapult, find durable and strong materials to withstand the extreme forces your catapult will use when shooting objects. There are a great many materials you could use in the construction of your catapult, but at minimum you will need:\\nBroomstick or crank\\nPadding\\nPlywood (1/4\\\" to 1/2\\\" thick, 15\\\" by 18 and 1/2\\\")\\nRope (strong, stretchy preferred,like kernmantle rope)\\nScrews or bolts\\nWeights (optional)\\nWood (preferably non-flexible, like oak wood)\\nIf using 2x4 planks collect: two pieces at 36\\\", one piece at 30\\\", four pieces at 15\\\", and one piece at 18\\\"\\n1-2. Contemplate base and weights.\\nSince your catapult utilizes such powerful forces to eject its payload, you will need a strong and sturdy platform for launching as well as a strong and stable foundation. Poor foundation can throw off your aim or cause your catapult to fail.\\nTorsion catapults, which is the technical name for a normal catapult, have historically been built with heavy, reinforced sides, as these would allow for heavier payload, greater tensile force, and greater stability.\\n1-3. Cut your plywood supports.\\nFor the base of this catapult, you will use a 2x4 base supported with plywood triangles. To prepare your plywood supports, take one rectangular piece of plywood 1/4\\\" to 1/2\\\" thick, 15\\\" by 18 and 1/2\\\", and cut it diagonally into two equal triangles.\\n1-4. Choose the right material for your throwing arm.\\nTraditionally, spruce or fir wood were used for the throwing arm, as these woods were light and strong. Consult your local lumberyard to see if these are an affordable option and, if not, ask for some alternatives, two of which follow:\\nThick PVC pipe\\nMetal pipe (lightweight, durable)\\n1-5. Cut your torsion handles.\\nYou will need rope torsion to provide the launching force for your catapult. The more twists, the greater the torque, the more power your catapult will have. The amount of torsion (twisting) you can achieve is limited only by your strength and the strength of the materials you've used in making your catapult. To make your torsion handles, take a broomstick and cut into two 15 inch segments.\\n2. Forming the Base\\n2-1. Lay out the right side of your base.\\nPosition your 36\\\" 2x4 flat, longways on your workbench or another suitable sturdy surface. Place your 18\\\" 2x4 at a right angle to your 36\\\" piece at 15\\\" from the end of the 36\\\" piece and screw them into place.\\n2-2. Attach your plywood triangle.\\nPlace it atop your 2x4 planks. The 18\\\" side of your plywood will be vertical to your 36\\\" plank, its base parallel with the 36\\\" plank, and its diagonal will approximately span the distance between the two ends each 2x4 plank. Screw down your triangle securely to your 2x4s. This forms one base leg of your catapult.\\n2-3. Lay out the left side of your base and affix your other triangular plywood piece.\\nIn the same fashion you constructed the right side, put your 36\\\" and 18\\\" 2x4 planks at a right angle 15\\\" from the end of the long piece, and screw your triangular plywood piece into place atop the two 2x4 planks, with the base parallel to the 36\\\" 2x4.\\n2-4. Connect the left and right sides of the base.\\nUsing your two 15\\\" long 2x4 planks, screw your left and right side, with the base of your triangle and base of your 36\\\" 2x4 forming the bottom, leaving the hypotenuse (the diagonal) facing up. Use long screws to ensure your frame is sturdy.\\nDo not use nails for this part of your frame. Nails are sensitive to the stress your catapult will exert, and could come loose over time.\\n3. Forming the Arm\\n3-1. Turn your base right-side up.\\nNow that you have your frame constructed, you will begin working on constructing the throwing arm. The top side of your catapult will have the 18\\\" vertical boards pointing straight up, and your 36\\\" boards laying flat edgewise.\\n3-2. Screw in a cross brace between the sides.\\nAt the topmost point of your 18\\\" vertical boards, screw in another 18\\\" piece between the two to form the cross brace of your catapult. The top of your cross brace should be level with the top of your vertical 18\\\" 2x4 boards.\\n3-3. Prepare the arm.\\nTake your 30\\\" 2x4 and measure 2.5\\\" from one end. Drill a 1/2\\\" centered hole clear on the narrow side of the board through the entire width of the 2x4.\\n3-4. Attach a cup or launching basket.\\nScrew a plastic cup to the center of the flat side of your 2x4. This should also be the opposite side from where you drilled a hole through the short side of your 2x4. Feel free to experiment with other materials and holding devices, like baskets, bowls, and cases.\\n3-5. Drill a hole in the base.\\nDrill a 1\\\" hole in each side of the base into the end with your triangular support. This hole will need to be centered 6\\\" from the end of the 36\\\" piece where the end of your plywood triangle should also end. Then measure 2.5\\\" up from the bottom edge of the device and drill.\\n3-6. Pad the arm.\\nThe arm of your catapult operates by being pulled or winched back after applying tension to the rope that will be laced through the frame. Where the throwing arm of your catapult meets your cross brace, it's a good idea to add padding, like a blanket or several layers of wrapped rags. This will prevent your catapult from doing damage to itself when the arm is pulled back, released, and comes in contact with the cross brace.\\n4. Lacing the Arm\\n4-1. Lace the rope.\\nYou will need about 20' of rope to complete the lacing process. Tie the rope around your broomstick handle, then take it through the hole in the right side of the base, through the hole you drilled in the arm of the catapult, out the opposite side of the base and back out to your second broomstick handle. Loop it around your second handle, then take it back through the frame to your first handle, where you will loop the cord again. Do this several times.\\nWhen choosing rope, look for strong material that has some stretch to it. Kernmantle rope, like parachute cord, is an excellent option.\\nTake your cord back and forth through the frame and arm several times to ensure your rope is securely fastened to the frame.\\nWhile lacing, don't worry about keeping the rope tight. When you turn your handles, you will tighten the rope and apply launching force.\\n4-2. Use an over under motion to complete lacing.\\nAfter you have run your cord through the base of your catapult and throwing arm several times to secure it to the frame and arm, starting with your second handle, bring the end of your cord around the second handle in a loop that passes through the hole in your frame and the throwing arm, passing through to the hole on the other side to loop around your first handle. Continue this motion, following each over-lacing of the arm with an under-lacing with each pass of the cord through the frame.\\nThis should form a figure eight shape with your rope where you can clearly see the rope twisting together. The more twists you add through your over and under motion, the more tension and greater force your catapult will have.\\nAfter securing your rope to arm and frame, you should not continue threading your line through the throwing arm. To achieve the tension necessary to throw a projectile, you must finish lacing by going through the frame holes, around the broom handles in loops, and and the throwing arm.\\nMake sure your loops stay anchored around your broom handles.\\n4-3. Knot the end of your cord to the side of the arm.\\nWhen you are reaching the end of your rope, wrap it around the strings to one side of your catapult, then cross over and do the same on the other side. Now you can knot the end of your cord, ensuring it won't come lose with the added benefit of keeping your rope orderly.\\n4-4. Add a catch for your throwing arm.\\nAs you twist your handles, the torsion of the rope will cause your throwing arm to ascend until its tension holds it against the cross brace. First allow your arm to rest fully back in the launching position and judge where to best install your catch, then drill a hole and insert your hook.\\nBy installing a catch to the rear of your frame, you won't have to pull the arm back to launch your payload. Simply release the catch after applying tension, and your arm will spring forward, stopping at the cross brace and launching your payload.\\n4-5. Arm your catapult and apply torsion.\\nYour handles should now be off to each side of your catapult base, parallel to your 36\\\" pieces and attached to the frame and throwing arm by rope. Turn the handles to create torsion in the rope. This will give the catapult tension, simply add a payload to your cup, wind your broomstick cranks, release your catch and fire.\\nTips\\nTriangles are excellent supporting shapes to reinforce your catapult. The strongest are equilateral triangles so if you make the catapult and it is unstable, add triangular support.\\nMake the angle of the arm to the ground at release of projectile equal to 45 degrees unless it is released above the ground. For example, if the projectile is released at 1 meter (3.3 ft) off the ground, the optimum angle is 44.6 degrees. The optimal angle decreases as the height of the catapult increases.\\nForget trying to build a catapult and build a trebuchet instead, as it is the superior siege engine and can launch 90 kilogram projectiles over 300 meters using a counterweight.\\nWarnings\\nStore this device in a safe place; children playing with a catapult without supervision could harm themselves or others.\\nKeep your face out of the swing of the arm of the catapult\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The strength of a catapult could refer either to the sturdiness of the catapult frame and its ability to withstand use, or it could refer to the force with which the catapult launches projectiles. However, knowing how to build the frame of your catapult can actually help you understand how to build a sturdier machine and launch a projectile farther with even greater force. Using basic principles in engineering, you can create a large working catapult of your own, or you can use these principles to build a smaller scale model.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Build\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the materials.\", \"描述\": \"To ensure you build the best and safest catapult, find durable and strong materials to withstand the extreme forces your catapult will use when shooting objects. There are a great many materials you could use in the construction of your catapult, but at minimum you will need:\\nBroomstick or crank\\nPadding\\nPlywood (1/4\\\" to 1/2\\\" thick, 15\\\" by 18 and 1/2\\\")\\nRope (strong, stretchy preferred,like kernmantle rope)\\nScrews or bolts\\nWeights (optional)\\nWood (preferably non-flexible, like oak wood)\\nIf using 2x4 planks collect: two pieces at 36\\\", one piece at 30\\\", four pieces at 15\\\", and one piece at 18\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Contemplate base and weights.\", \"描述\": \"Since your catapult utilizes such powerful forces to eject its payload, you will need a strong and sturdy platform for launching as well as a strong and stable foundation. Poor foundation can throw off your aim or cause your catapult to fail.\\nTorsion catapults, which is the technical name for a normal catapult, have historically been built with heavy, reinforced sides, as these would allow for heavier payload, greater tensile force, and greater stability.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut your plywood supports.\", \"描述\": \"For the base of this catapult, you will use a 2x4 base supported with plywood triangles. To prepare your plywood supports, take one rectangular piece of plywood 1/4\\\" to 1/2\\\" thick, 15\\\" by 18 and 1/2\\\", and cut it diagonally into two equal triangles.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose the right material for your throwing arm.\", \"描述\": \"Traditionally, spruce or fir wood were used for the throwing arm, as these woods were light and strong. Consult your local lumberyard to see if these are an affordable option and, if not, ask for some alternatives, two of which follow:\\nThick PVC pipe\\nMetal pipe (lightweight, durable)\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut your torsion handles.\", \"描述\": \"You will need rope torsion to provide the launching force for your catapult. The more twists, the greater the torque, the more power your catapult will have. The amount of torsion (twisting) you can achieve is limited only by your strength and the strength of the materials you've used in making your catapult. To make your torsion handles, take a broomstick and cut into two 15 inch segments.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Forming the Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay out the right side of your base.\", \"描述\": \"Position your 36\\\" 2x4 flat, longways on your workbench or another suitable sturdy surface. Place your 18\\\" 2x4 at a right angle to your 36\\\" piece at 15\\\" from the end of the 36\\\" piece and screw them into place.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach your plywood triangle.\", \"描述\": \"Place it atop your 2x4 planks. The 18\\\" side of your plywood will be vertical to your 36\\\" plank, its base parallel with the 36\\\" plank, and its diagonal will approximately span the distance between the two ends each 2x4 plank. Screw down your triangle securely to your 2x4s. This forms one base leg of your catapult.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay out the left side of your base and affix your other triangular plywood piece.\", \"描述\": \"In the same fashion you constructed the right side, put your 36\\\" and 18\\\" 2x4 planks at a right angle 15\\\" from the end of the long piece, and screw your triangular plywood piece into place atop the two 2x4 planks, with the base parallel to the 36\\\" 2x4.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the left and right sides of the base.\", \"描述\": \"Using your two 15\\\" long 2x4 planks, screw your left and right side, with the base of your triangle and base of your 36\\\" 2x4 forming the bottom, leaving the hypotenuse (the diagonal) facing up. Use long screws to ensure your frame is sturdy.\\nDo not use nails for this part of your frame. Nails are sensitive to the stress your catapult will exert, and could come loose over time.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Forming the Arm\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Turn your base right-side up.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have your frame constructed, you will begin working on constructing the throwing arm. The top side of your catapult will have the 18\\\" vertical boards pointing straight up, and your 36\\\" boards laying flat edgewise.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw in a cross brace between the sides.\", \"描述\": \"At the topmost point of your 18\\\" vertical boards, screw in another 18\\\" piece between the two to form the cross brace of your catapult. The top of your cross brace should be level with the top of your vertical 18\\\" 2x4 boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare the arm.\", \"描述\": \"Take your 30\\\" 2x4 and measure 2.5\\\" from one end. Drill a 1/2\\\" centered hole clear on the narrow side of the board through the entire width of the 2x4.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach a cup or launching basket.\", \"描述\": \"Screw a plastic cup to the center of the flat side of your 2x4. This should also be the opposite side from where you drilled a hole through the short side of your 2x4. Feel free to experiment with other materials and holding devices, like baskets, bowls, and cases.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole in the base.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a 1\\\" hole in each side of the base into the end with your triangular support. This hole will need to be centered 6\\\" from the end of the 36\\\" piece where the end of your plywood triangle should also end. Then measure 2.5\\\" up from the bottom edge of the device and drill.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pad the arm.\", \"描述\": \"The arm of your catapult operates by being pulled or winched back after applying tension to the rope that will be laced through the frame. Where the throwing arm of your catapult meets your cross brace, it's a good idea to add padding, like a blanket or several layers of wrapped rags. This will prevent your catapult from doing damage to itself when the arm is pulled back, released, and comes in contact with the cross brace.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lacing the Arm\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lace the rope.\", \"描述\": \"You will need about 20' of rope to complete the lacing process. Tie the rope around your broomstick handle, then take it through the hole in the right side of the base, through the hole you drilled in the arm of the catapult, out the opposite side of the base and back out to your second broomstick handle. Loop it around your second handle, then take it back through the frame to your first handle, where you will loop the cord again. Do this several times.\\nWhen choosing rope, look for strong material that has some stretch to it. Kernmantle rope, like parachute cord, is an excellent option.\\nTake your cord back and forth through the frame and arm several times to ensure your rope is securely fastened to the frame.\\nWhile lacing, don't worry about keeping the rope tight. When you turn your handles, you will tighten the rope and apply launching force.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use an over under motion to complete lacing.\", \"描述\": \"After you have run your cord through the base of your catapult and throwing arm several times to secure it to the frame and arm, starting with your second handle, bring the end of your cord around the second handle in a loop that passes through the hole in your frame and the throwing arm, passing through to the hole on the other side to loop around your first handle. Continue this motion, following each over-lacing of the arm with an under-lacing with each pass of the cord through the frame.\\nThis should form a figure eight shape with your rope where you can clearly see the rope twisting together. The more twists you add through your over and under motion, the more tension and greater force your catapult will have.\\nAfter securing your rope to arm and frame, you should not continue threading your line through the throwing arm. To achieve the tension necessary to throw a projectile, you must finish lacing by going through the frame holes, around the broom handles in loops, and and the throwing arm.\\nMake sure your loops stay anchored around your broom handles.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Knot the end of your cord to the side of the arm.\", \"描述\": \"When you are reaching the end of your rope, wrap it around the strings to one side of your catapult, then cross over and do the same on the other side. Now you can knot the end of your cord, ensuring it won't come lose with the added benefit of keeping your rope orderly.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a catch for your throwing arm.\", \"描述\": \"As you twist your handles, the torsion of the rope will cause your throwing arm to ascend until its tension holds it against the cross brace. First allow your arm to rest fully back in the launching position and judge where to best install your catch, then drill a hole and insert your hook.\\nBy installing a catch to the rear of your frame, you won't have to pull the arm back to launch your payload. Simply release the catch after applying tension, and your arm will spring forward, stopping at the cross brace and launching your payload.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Arm your catapult and apply torsion.\", \"描述\": \"Your handles should now be off to each side of your catapult base, parallel to your 36\\\" pieces and attached to the frame and throwing arm by rope. Turn the handles to create torsion in the rope. This will give the catapult tension, simply add a payload to your cup, wind your broomstick cranks, release your catch and fire.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Triangles are excellent supporting shapes to reinforce your catapult. The strongest are equilateral triangles so if you make the catapult and it is unstable, add triangular support.\\n\", \"Make the angle of the arm to the ground at release of projectile equal to 45 degrees unless it is released above the ground. For example, if the projectile is released at 1 meter (3.3 ft) off the ground, the optimum angle is 44.6 degrees. The optimal angle decreases as the height of the catapult increases.\\n\", \"Forget trying to build a catapult and build a trebuchet instead, as it is the superior siege engine and can launch 90 kilogram projectiles over 300 meters using a counterweight.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Store this device in a safe place; children playing with a catapult without supervision could harm themselves or others.\\n\", \"Keep your face out of the swing of the arm of the catapult\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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How to Build a Strong Medical School Application
|
1. Making the Decision
Research the career field.
Use the internet and your own interpersonal skills to your advantage! Medical School Headquarters has a short blog post (and linked podcast episode) that will help you determine if medicine is the right career path for you.
Shadow various healthcare providers: physicians, nurses, physicians' associates, etc. to distinguish the differences between each. There are many providers that take part in caring for patients, and understanding each role can aid in deciding which route is best for you.
Understand that the road to becoming a physician is a 10+ year process- you want to make sure that it is something you are passionate about. Understanding specifically why the physician's role is what you want to pursue will help carry you through the process. Is it autonomy? Is it the leadership aspect? Or is it something more personal? Determining your reasoning for wanting to be a doctor will help solidify your decision when things get tough down the road.
Explore the costs of medical school. On average, it costs over $200,000 to attend medical school. Clearly, this is an expensive process. Make sure that medicine is the right path for you- it will be challenging to pay back debt without at least having an attending physician's income!
Take the job outlook into account. Although there is projected to be an increase in jobs for physicians, the increase is slower-than-average when compared to other career fields. Make sure that you are okay with this!
2. Gaining Insight on the Process
2-1. Understand the different components of the medical school application.
There are many aspects to the medical school application: GPA, MCAT score, letters of recommendation, clinical experience, research, and others. It is important to know what will be expected by admissions committees when they select which students to interview.
2-2. Understand the timeline.
The road to medical school varies person-to-person, but the application cycle is generally the same. Dr. Ryan Gray, MD writes a high-quality book that dives deep into the timeline and gives excellent, credible advice .
There are two main application portals (with the exception of Texas): AMCAS (allopathic) and AACOMAS (osteopathic). The timeline is generally the same, but keep in mind if you plan on applying to both types of schools, you will need to submit both applications.
The primary application for both allopathic and osteopathic schools opens at the beginning of May, with secondary applications getting sent out about one month after the primary application is received by the school.
Invitations for interviews typically go out from October-January, but this can vary by about two months.
Acceptance or waitlist spots vary significantly between programs, so it is best to check with each school you interview at to see what their relative timeline is.
3. Deciding Where to Apply
3-1. Research prospective programs.
Do you want to stay in-state or go out-of-state? How important is attending a prestigious program to you? Does the school's mission statement align with your values? These are all questions to take into consideration when creating a list of prospective schools.
3-2. Make a list of each potential program's statistics.
Each program will slightly vary in the required prerequisite coursework, so you want to make sure you take the necessary classes.
Find out the average accepted applicant statistics. There are two main databases that give this information: MSAR (allopathic) and the Choose DO Explorer (osteopathic) give invaluable information pertaining to the type of applicant that a program accepts. Take note of the average MCAT score and GPA for the programs that you may consider. Applying to medical school is expensive and you do not want to waste time and money on applying to unrealistic schools!
4. Building the Application
4-1. Maintain a strong GPA.
Although medical school admissions really are more holistic than ever, GPA is still one of the most crucial elements of an application.
Some schools have GPA cutoffs (e.g. a minimum of 3.0 GPA) and will not send secondary applications to students who do not meet that cutoff.
Prioritize your grades in your STEM-related classes. Many of these classes will compose your science GPA (sGPA), which is something that is heavily considered by admissions committees.
4-2. Take the MCAT.
Whether you take the MCAT during your undergraduate years or during a gap year, this test is another extremely important component of the application. This score will get sent to every school you apply to and it will be used as a measurement of your academic capabilities.
4-3. Shadow different specialties.
Although shadowing is fairly passive, it still assures admissions committees that you know what you are getting yourself into. The American Association of Medical Colleges (AAMC) website has a great guide on how to find shadowing opportunities.
If you work or volunteer in a healthcare field, ask one of the physicians you work with if they will allow you to shadow them.
If you don't already work in healthcare, cold-calling doctor's offices or asking your primary care physician if you can shadow them is a great place to start!
4-4. Gain clinical experience.
Admissions committees like to see that you are already aware of what it is like to work in healthcare.
Whether you are a medical scribe, EMT, patient care technician, or medical assistant, this is another critical aspect of the application.
If you cannot dedicate the number of hours that most clinical positions require, try reaching out to a local hospital or doctor's office. Oftentimes, these places allow members of the community to volunteer once or twice a week. This is a great, low-time commitment way to build connections while still prioritizing your grades.
4-5. Pursue other personal interests.
You are more than your future career! Yes, your MCAT score, GPA, and clinical experience all have a lot of weight when it comes to getting accepted into medical school; however, admissions committees also want to know who you are outside of medicine! If you play an instrument, enjoy painting, or love live music, these are all things that can be mentioned on your application. Plus, enjoying these hobbies can help prevent burnout.
4-6. Gather letters of recommendation.
This is another area that varies between schools. Schools usually have minimum/maximum letters that you can submit, so be sure to keep this in mind when you are obtaining them. Med School Insiders gives step-by-step instructions on the process of obtaining strong letters of recommendation.
A general rule of thumb is 1-2 letters from a science professor and 1 letter from a non-science professor.
In addition to professor letters, a strong letter from a physician who knows you very well is beneficial. You want to make sure that the people who write your letters can speak on your work ethic, quality of work, and dedication.
Note: some osteopathic schools require a letter from an osteopathic physician.
4-7. Conduct or assist with research.
Medicine is an ever-evolving field and research is necessary to maintain the progression. Participating in research shows admissions committees that you are already familiar with the scientific method. Whether it is clinical or bench research, it is definitely something that many medical schools seek out in future students.
Having a significant research background is a must if you plan on applying to public or private research universities.
If you do not currently have any research connections, try speaking with one of your science professors to see if they know anyone looking to fill a research assistant position.
Research can be both paid and unpaid, so make sure you take this into consideration prior to committing to a position.
4-8. Write an excellent personal statement.
The personal statement is just that- personal.
In addition to letters of recommendation, this is a key component in helping the admissions committees understand who you are as a person. The personal statement is so crucial that Dr. Ryan Gray wrote an entire book on it!
This is the place where you will elaborate on why you chose to become a doctor. Was it from a memorable experience with a patient during your clinical work? Did you fall in love with medical research and never looked back? Did you have your own memorable experience as a patient that led you to pursue medicine? Write about it!
Allow yourself plenty of time to curate your personal statement. This is another aspect of your application that can either make or break you!
Tips
Track your volunteering and shadowing hours! Either write them out on paper or keep track of them digitally, but it will save you a lot of time and confusion come application time.
Make notes of memorable interactions during your clinical and research experiences. Having different, specific experiences to write about will be very helpful when it comes to drafting your personal statement.
Take advantage of connections that you already have! Most doctors love to help give advice to future medical students- no one knows the process better than them.
Warnings
Do your best to find a balance between being a pre-medical student and having a personal life. It is easy to become consumed in the process but it is much better to prevent burnout than remedy it.
Do not go into medicine for the money. Yes, physicians are well-compensated, but keep in mind all of the sacrifices that go into it. If you want to make a lot of money, there are plenty of other career options that do not involve 10+ years of schooling!
If your mental/emotional well-being is suffering at the expense of your grades, seek professional guidance.
Make sure that the information you are engaging with is credible and take advice with a grain of salt. Every person's journey to medical school is vastly different and all advice may not be applicable to you.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:09",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the Decision\\nResearch the career field.\\nUse the internet and your own interpersonal skills to your advantage! Medical School Headquarters has a short blog post (and linked podcast episode) that will help you determine if medicine is the right career path for you.\\nShadow various healthcare providers: physicians, nurses, physicians' associates, etc. to distinguish the differences between each. There are many providers that take part in caring for patients, and understanding each role can aid in deciding which route is best for you.\\nUnderstand that the road to becoming a physician is a 10+ year process- you want to make sure that it is something you are passionate about. Understanding specifically why the physician's role is what you want to pursue will help carry you through the process. Is it autonomy? Is it the leadership aspect? Or is it something more personal? Determining your reasoning for wanting to be a doctor will help solidify your decision when things get tough down the road.\\nExplore the costs of medical school. On average, it costs over $200,000 to attend medical school. Clearly, this is an expensive process. Make sure that medicine is the right path for you- it will be challenging to pay back debt without at least having an attending physician's income!\\nTake the job outlook into account. Although there is projected to be an increase in jobs for physicians, the increase is slower-than-average when compared to other career fields. Make sure that you are okay with this!\\n2. Gaining Insight on the Process\\n2-1. Understand the different components of the medical school application.\\nThere are many aspects to the medical school application: GPA, MCAT score, letters of recommendation, clinical experience, research, and others. It is important to know what will be expected by admissions committees when they select which students to interview.\\n2-2. Understand the timeline.\\nThe road to medical school varies person-to-person, but the application cycle is generally the same. Dr. Ryan Gray, MD writes a high-quality book that dives deep into the timeline and gives excellent, credible advice .\\nThere are two main application portals (with the exception of Texas): AMCAS (allopathic) and AACOMAS (osteopathic). The timeline is generally the same, but keep in mind if you plan on applying to both types of schools, you will need to submit both applications.\\nThe primary application for both allopathic and osteopathic schools opens at the beginning of May, with secondary applications getting sent out about one month after the primary application is received by the school.\\nInvitations for interviews typically go out from October-January, but this can vary by about two months.\\nAcceptance or waitlist spots vary significantly between programs, so it is best to check with each school you interview at to see what their relative timeline is.\\n3. Deciding Where to Apply\\n3-1. Research prospective programs.\\nDo you want to stay in-state or go out-of-state? How important is attending a prestigious program to you? Does the school's mission statement align with your values? These are all questions to take into consideration when creating a list of prospective schools.\\n3-2. Make a list of each potential program's statistics.\\nEach program will slightly vary in the required prerequisite coursework, so you want to make sure you take the necessary classes.\\nFind out the average accepted applicant statistics. There are two main databases that give this information: MSAR (allopathic) and the Choose DO Explorer (osteopathic) give invaluable information pertaining to the type of applicant that a program accepts. Take note of the average MCAT score and GPA for the programs that you may consider. Applying to medical school is expensive and you do not want to waste time and money on applying to unrealistic schools!\\n4. Building the Application\\n4-1. Maintain a strong GPA.\\nAlthough medical school admissions really are more holistic than ever, GPA is still one of the most crucial elements of an application.\\nSome schools have GPA cutoffs (e.g. a minimum of 3.0 GPA) and will not send secondary applications to students who do not meet that cutoff.\\nPrioritize your grades in your STEM-related classes. Many of these classes will compose your science GPA (sGPA), which is something that is heavily considered by admissions committees.\\n4-2. Take the MCAT.\\nWhether you take the MCAT during your undergraduate years or during a gap year, this test is another extremely important component of the application. This score will get sent to every school you apply to and it will be used as a measurement of your academic capabilities.\\n4-3. Shadow different specialties.\\nAlthough shadowing is fairly passive, it still assures admissions committees that you know what you are getting yourself into. The American Association of Medical Colleges (AAMC) website has a great guide on how to find shadowing opportunities.\\nIf you work or volunteer in a healthcare field, ask one of the physicians you work with if they will allow you to shadow them.\\nIf you don't already work in healthcare, cold-calling doctor's offices or asking your primary care physician if you can shadow them is a great place to start!\\n4-4. Gain clinical experience.\\nAdmissions committees like to see that you are already aware of what it is like to work in healthcare.\\nWhether you are a medical scribe, EMT, patient care technician, or medical assistant, this is another critical aspect of the application.\\nIf you cannot dedicate the number of hours that most clinical positions require, try reaching out to a local hospital or doctor's office. Oftentimes, these places allow members of the community to volunteer once or twice a week. This is a great, low-time commitment way to build connections while still prioritizing your grades.\\n4-5. Pursue other personal interests.\\nYou are more than your future career! Yes, your MCAT score, GPA, and clinical experience all have a lot of weight when it comes to getting accepted into medical school; however, admissions committees also want to know who you are outside of medicine! If you play an instrument, enjoy painting, or love live music, these are all things that can be mentioned on your application. Plus, enjoying these hobbies can help prevent burnout.\\n4-6. Gather letters of recommendation.\\nThis is another area that varies between schools. Schools usually have minimum/maximum letters that you can submit, so be sure to keep this in mind when you are obtaining them. Med School Insiders gives step-by-step instructions on the process of obtaining strong letters of recommendation.\\nA general rule of thumb is 1-2 letters from a science professor and 1 letter from a non-science professor.\\nIn addition to professor letters, a strong letter from a physician who knows you very well is beneficial. You want to make sure that the people who write your letters can speak on your work ethic, quality of work, and dedication.\\nNote: some osteopathic schools require a letter from an osteopathic physician.\\n4-7. Conduct or assist with research.\\nMedicine is an ever-evolving field and research is necessary to maintain the progression. Participating in research shows admissions committees that you are already familiar with the scientific method. Whether it is clinical or bench research, it is definitely something that many medical schools seek out in future students.\\nHaving a significant research background is a must if you plan on applying to public or private research universities.\\nIf you do not currently have any research connections, try speaking with one of your science professors to see if they know anyone looking to fill a research assistant position.\\nResearch can be both paid and unpaid, so make sure you take this into consideration prior to committing to a position.\\n4-8. Write an excellent personal statement.\\nThe personal statement is just that- personal.\\nIn addition to letters of recommendation, this is a key component in helping the admissions committees understand who you are as a person. The personal statement is so crucial that Dr. Ryan Gray wrote an entire book on it!\\nThis is the place where you will elaborate on why you chose to become a doctor. Was it from a memorable experience with a patient during your clinical work? Did you fall in love with medical research and never looked back? Did you have your own memorable experience as a patient that led you to pursue medicine? Write about it!\\nAllow yourself plenty of time to curate your personal statement. This is another aspect of your application that can either make or break you!\\nTips\\nTrack your volunteering and shadowing hours! Either write them out on paper or keep track of them digitally, but it will save you a lot of time and confusion come application time.\\nMake notes of memorable interactions during your clinical and research experiences. Having different, specific experiences to write about will be very helpful when it comes to drafting your personal statement.\\nTake advantage of connections that you already have! Most doctors love to help give advice to future medical students- no one knows the process better than them.\\nWarnings\\nDo your best to find a balance between being a pre-medical student and having a personal life. It is easy to become consumed in the process but it is much better to prevent burnout than remedy it.\\nDo not go into medicine for the money. Yes, physicians are well-compensated, but keep in mind all of the sacrifices that go into it. If you want to make a lot of money, there are plenty of other career options that do not involve 10+ years of schooling!\\nIf your mental/emotional well-being is suffering at the expense of your grades, seek professional guidance.\\nMake sure that the information you are engaging with is credible and take advice with a grain of salt. Every person's journey to medical school is vastly different and all advice may not be applicable to you.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Are you interested in applying to medical school in the United States? The application cycle is long and grueling. Follow these steps to ensure your application is strong enough to land an interview!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the Decision\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Research the career field.\", \"描述\": \"Use the internet and your own interpersonal skills to your advantage! Medical School Headquarters has a short blog post (and linked podcast episode) that will help you determine if medicine is the right career path for you.\\nShadow various healthcare providers: physicians, nurses, physicians' associates, etc. to distinguish the differences between each. There are many providers that take part in caring for patients, and understanding each role can aid in deciding which route is best for you.\\nUnderstand that the road to becoming a physician is a 10+ year process- you want to make sure that it is something you are passionate about. Understanding specifically why the physician's role is what you want to pursue will help carry you through the process. Is it autonomy? Is it the leadership aspect? Or is it something more personal? Determining your reasoning for wanting to be a doctor will help solidify your decision when things get tough down the road.\\nExplore the costs of medical school. On average, it costs over $200,000 to attend medical school. Clearly, this is an expensive process. Make sure that medicine is the right path for you- it will be challenging to pay back debt without at least having an attending physician's income!\\nTake the job outlook into account. Although there is projected to be an increase in jobs for physicians, the increase is slower-than-average when compared to other career fields. Make sure that you are okay with this!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gaining Insight on the Process\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the different components of the medical school application.\", \"描述\": \"There are many aspects to the medical school application: GPA, MCAT score, letters of recommendation, clinical experience, research, and others. It is important to know what will be expected by admissions committees when they select which students to interview.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Understand the timeline.\", \"描述\": \"The road to medical school varies person-to-person, but the application cycle is generally the same. Dr. Ryan Gray, MD writes a high-quality book that dives deep into the timeline and gives excellent, credible advice .\\nThere are two main application portals (with the exception of Texas): AMCAS (allopathic) and AACOMAS (osteopathic). The timeline is generally the same, but keep in mind if you plan on applying to both types of schools, you will need to submit both applications.\\nThe primary application for both allopathic and osteopathic schools opens at the beginning of May, with secondary applications getting sent out about one month after the primary application is received by the school.\\nInvitations for interviews typically go out from October-January, but this can vary by about two months.\\nAcceptance or waitlist spots vary significantly between programs, so it is best to check with each school you interview at to see what their relative timeline is.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Deciding Where to Apply\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Research prospective programs.\", \"描述\": \"Do you want to stay in-state or go out-of-state? How important is attending a prestigious program to you? Does the school's mission statement align with your values? These are all questions to take into consideration when creating a list of prospective schools.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a list of each potential program's statistics.\", \"描述\": \"Each program will slightly vary in the required prerequisite coursework, so you want to make sure you take the necessary classes.\\nFind out the average accepted applicant statistics. There are two main databases that give this information: MSAR (allopathic) and the Choose DO Explorer (osteopathic) give invaluable information pertaining to the type of applicant that a program accepts. Take note of the average MCAT score and GPA for the programs that you may consider. Applying to medical school is expensive and you do not want to waste time and money on applying to unrealistic schools!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Building the Application\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Maintain a strong GPA.\", \"描述\": \"Although medical school admissions really are more holistic than ever, GPA is still one of the most crucial elements of an application.\\nSome schools have GPA cutoffs (e.g. a minimum of 3.0 GPA) and will not send secondary applications to students who do not meet that cutoff.\\nPrioritize your grades in your STEM-related classes. Many of these classes will compose your science GPA (sGPA), which is something that is heavily considered by admissions committees.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take the MCAT.\", \"描述\": \"Whether you take the MCAT during your undergraduate years or during a gap year, this test is another extremely important component of the application. This score will get sent to every school you apply to and it will be used as a measurement of your academic capabilities.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Shadow different specialties.\", \"描述\": \"Although shadowing is fairly passive, it still assures admissions committees that you know what you are getting yourself into. The American Association of Medical Colleges (AAMC) website has a great guide on how to find shadowing opportunities.\\nIf you work or volunteer in a healthcare field, ask one of the physicians you work with if they will allow you to shadow them.\\nIf you don't already work in healthcare, cold-calling doctor's offices or asking your primary care physician if you can shadow them is a great place to start!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Gain clinical experience.\", \"描述\": \"Admissions committees like to see that you are already aware of what it is like to work in healthcare.\\nWhether you are a medical scribe, EMT, patient care technician, or medical assistant, this is another critical aspect of the application.\\nIf you cannot dedicate the number of hours that most clinical positions require, try reaching out to a local hospital or doctor's office. Oftentimes, these places allow members of the community to volunteer once or twice a week. This is a great, low-time commitment way to build connections while still prioritizing your grades.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pursue other personal interests.\", \"描述\": \"You are more than your future career! Yes, your MCAT score, GPA, and clinical experience all have a lot of weight when it comes to getting accepted into medical school; however, admissions committees also want to know who you are outside of medicine! If you play an instrument, enjoy painting, or love live music, these are all things that can be mentioned on your application. Plus, enjoying these hobbies can help prevent burnout.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Gather letters of recommendation.\", \"描述\": \"This is another area that varies between schools. Schools usually have minimum/maximum letters that you can submit, so be sure to keep this in mind when you are obtaining them. Med School Insiders gives step-by-step instructions on the process of obtaining strong letters of recommendation.\\nA general rule of thumb is 1-2 letters from a science professor and 1 letter from a non-science professor.\\nIn addition to professor letters, a strong letter from a physician who knows you very well is beneficial. You want to make sure that the people who write your letters can speak on your work ethic, quality of work, and dedication.\\nNote: some osteopathic schools require a letter from an osteopathic physician.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Conduct or assist with research.\", \"描述\": \"Medicine is an ever-evolving field and research is necessary to maintain the progression. Participating in research shows admissions committees that you are already familiar with the scientific method. Whether it is clinical or bench research, it is definitely something that many medical schools seek out in future students.\\nHaving a significant research background is a must if you plan on applying to public or private research universities.\\nIf you do not currently have any research connections, try speaking with one of your science professors to see if they know anyone looking to fill a research assistant position.\\nResearch can be both paid and unpaid, so make sure you take this into consideration prior to committing to a position.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Write an excellent personal statement.\", \"描述\": \"The personal statement is just that- personal.\\nIn addition to letters of recommendation, this is a key component in helping the admissions committees understand who you are as a person. The personal statement is so crucial that Dr. Ryan Gray wrote an entire book on it!\\nThis is the place where you will elaborate on why you chose to become a doctor. Was it from a memorable experience with a patient during your clinical work? Did you fall in love with medical research and never looked back? Did you have your own memorable experience as a patient that led you to pursue medicine? Write about it!\\nAllow yourself plenty of time to curate your personal statement. This is another aspect of your application that can either make or break you!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Track your volunteering and shadowing hours! Either write them out on paper or keep track of them digitally, but it will save you a lot of time and confusion come application time.\\n\", \"Make notes of memorable interactions during your clinical and research experiences. Having different, specific experiences to write about will be very helpful when it comes to drafting your personal statement.\\n\", \"Take advantage of connections that you already have! Most doctors love to help give advice to future medical students- no one knows the process better than them.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do your best to find a balance between being a pre-medical student and having a personal life. It is easy to become consumed in the process but it is much better to prevent burnout than remedy it.\\n\", \"Do not go into medicine for the money. Yes, physicians are well-compensated, but keep in mind all of the sacrifices that go into it. If you want to make a lot of money, there are plenty of other career options that do not involve 10+ years of schooling!\\n\", \"If your mental/emotional well-being is suffering at the expense of your grades, seek professional guidance.\\n\", \"Make sure that the information you are engaging with is credible and take advice with a grain of salt. Every person's journey to medical school is vastly different and all advice may not be applicable to you.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,577 |
How to Build a Strong Retaining Wall with 4x4 Treated Post
|
1. Laying the Foundation
1-1. Dig a level trench a foot deep into stable soil.
Make the trench straight by staking out the location exactly and using a tight string to make a line between the stakes.
1-2. Add 6” of sand or crushed limestone as a base leveling material.
Compact the base material.
Check base material with a level or measure down from a leveled string line.
Add base material to low spots.
Repeat compacting.
1-3. Level the trench from one end to the other.
2. Building the First Course
2-1. Begin 1st course with a full length 4x4 post.
The word “course” means one row or one layer of the materials of which the wall is made.
2-2. Drill two half inch holes through post centered 4 feet (1.2 m) apart.
2-3. Hammer the post in place with rebar through the holes.
Hammer rebar until flush with top of 4x4 post.
2-4. Repeat for the entire length of the wall.
2-5. Measure the last post needed.
Transcribe measurement onto a post. Mark line around the post with speed square and pencil, and cut the lines with circular saw.
2-6. Check each post level horizontally and plumb vertically as subsequent courses will be affected.
Add wooden shims if necessary.
3. Constructing the Wall
3-1. Begin the second course with a post cut to half-length to stagger the joints.
Check posts for level and plumb before nailing.
Use the 4 pound sledge to hammer 60d wall tie nails through the top of the post into the course below.
Install the wall tie nails every 16 inches.
Install full length posts to complete the course cutting only the end post.
3-2. Begin third course/layer with ¼ length post to stagger seams.
Keep going until the layer is complete.
3-3. Begin fourth course with ¾ length post to stagger seams.
Keep going until the layer is complete.
3-4. Begin fifth course with full post again.
3-5. Add T-braces to the wall while being constructed for support.
Dig a T shaped trench behind the wall.
Build the T-brace horizontally behind the wall with 4x4 posts.
Incorporate the base of the T-brace by nailing it flush in between two posts in a course of the wall.
Hammer rebar down through the T-brace into the ground.
Bury the T-braces.
Locate all T-braces below the top of the finished wall so as to not become disturbed or visible.
3-6. Use the straightest and most visibly appealing 4x4 posts for the final top course the wall.
3-7. Backfill the wall.
Tips
The foundation will determine how level and straight the wall will be and assist drainage and longevity.
Use straight posts only to build the wall.
The posts should have a continuous footing.
Warnings
Wear ear and eye protection always when using a circular saw.
Wear safety glasses always when working with tools.
Wear personal protective equipment such as leather gloves, safety-toe work boots with good traction, and a protective hard hat.
Work with an assistant as the materials and tools are large and heavy.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:09",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Laying the Foundation\\n1-1. Dig a level trench a foot deep into stable soil.\\nMake the trench straight by staking out the location exactly and using a tight string to make a line between the stakes.\\n1-2. Add 6” of sand or crushed limestone as a base leveling material.\\nCompact the base material.\\nCheck base material with a level or measure down from a leveled string line.\\nAdd base material to low spots.\\nRepeat compacting.\\n1-3. Level the trench from one end to the other.\\n\\n2. Building the First Course\\n2-1. Begin 1st course with a full length 4x4 post.\\nThe word “course” means one row or one layer of the materials of which the wall is made.\\n2-2. Drill two half inch holes through post centered 4 feet (1.2 m) apart.\\n\\n2-3. Hammer the post in place with rebar through the holes.\\nHammer rebar until flush with top of 4x4 post.\\n2-4. Repeat for the entire length of the wall.\\n\\n2-5. Measure the last post needed.\\nTranscribe measurement onto a post. Mark line around the post with speed square and pencil, and cut the lines with circular saw.\\n2-6. Check each post level horizontally and plumb vertically as subsequent courses will be affected.\\nAdd wooden shims if necessary.\\n3. Constructing the Wall\\n3-1. Begin the second course with a post cut to half-length to stagger the joints.\\nCheck posts for level and plumb before nailing.\\nUse the 4 pound sledge to hammer 60d wall tie nails through the top of the post into the course below.\\nInstall the wall tie nails every 16 inches.\\nInstall full length posts to complete the course cutting only the end post.\\n3-2. Begin third course/layer with ¼ length post to stagger seams.\\nKeep going until the layer is complete.\\n3-3. Begin fourth course with ¾ length post to stagger seams.\\nKeep going until the layer is complete.\\n3-4. Begin fifth course with full post again.\\n\\n3-5. Add T-braces to the wall while being constructed for support.\\nDig a T shaped trench behind the wall.\\nBuild the T-brace horizontally behind the wall with 4x4 posts.\\nIncorporate the base of the T-brace by nailing it flush in between two posts in a course of the wall.\\nHammer rebar down through the T-brace into the ground.\\nBury the T-braces.\\nLocate all T-braces below the top of the finished wall so as to not become disturbed or visible.\\n3-6. Use the straightest and most visibly appealing 4x4 posts for the final top course the wall.\\n\\n3-7. Backfill the wall.\\n\\nTips\\nThe foundation will determine how level and straight the wall will be and assist drainage and longevity.\\nUse straight posts only to build the wall.\\nThe posts should have a continuous footing.\\nWarnings\\nWear ear and eye protection always when using a circular saw.\\nWear safety glasses always when working with tools.\\nWear personal protective equipment such as leather gloves, safety-toe work boots with good traction, and a protective hard hat.\\nWork with an assistant as the materials and tools are large and heavy.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a solid retaining wall using 4x4 treated posts is a straightforward project you can complete yourself with just some basic tools and supplies. In this article, we'll walk you through the best way to build the retaining wall step-by-step, from digging a trench to cutting and laying the posts. Follow the steps below, and before you know it, you'll have a beautiful, sturdy retaining wall made of treated posts.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Laying the Foundation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig a level trench a foot deep into stable soil.\", \"描述\": \"Make the trench straight by staking out the location exactly and using a tight string to make a line between the stakes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add 6” of sand or crushed limestone as a base leveling material.\", \"描述\": \"Compact the base material.\\nCheck base material with a level or measure down from a leveled string line.\\nAdd base material to low spots.\\nRepeat compacting.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Level the trench from one end to the other.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the First Course\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Begin 1st course with a full length 4x4 post.\", \"描述\": \"The word “course” means one row or one layer of the materials of which the wall is made.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill two half inch holes through post centered 4 feet (1.2 m) apart.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hammer the post in place with rebar through the holes.\", \"描述\": \"Hammer rebar until flush with top of 4x4 post.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat for the entire length of the wall.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Measure the last post needed.\", \"描述\": \"Transcribe measurement onto a post. Mark line around the post with speed square and pencil, and cut the lines with circular saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Check each post level horizontally and plumb vertically as subsequent courses will be affected.\", \"描述\": \"Add wooden shims if necessary.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Begin the second course with a post cut to half-length to stagger the joints.\", \"描述\": \"Check posts for level and plumb before nailing.\\nUse the 4 pound sledge to hammer 60d wall tie nails through the top of the post into the course below.\\nInstall the wall tie nails every 16 inches.\\nInstall full length posts to complete the course cutting only the end post.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Begin third course/layer with ¼ length post to stagger seams.\", \"描述\": \"Keep going until the layer is complete.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Begin fourth course with ¾ length post to stagger seams.\", \"描述\": \"Keep going until the layer is complete.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Begin fifth course with full post again.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add T-braces to the wall while being constructed for support.\", \"描述\": \"Dig a T shaped trench behind the wall.\\nBuild the T-brace horizontally behind the wall with 4x4 posts.\\nIncorporate the base of the T-brace by nailing it flush in between two posts in a course of the wall.\\nHammer rebar down through the T-brace into the ground.\\nBury the T-braces.\\nLocate all T-braces below the top of the finished wall so as to not become disturbed or visible.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Use the straightest and most visibly appealing 4x4 posts for the final top course the wall.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Backfill the wall.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The foundation will determine how level and straight the wall will be and assist drainage and longevity.\\n\", \"Use straight posts only to build the wall.\\n\", \"The posts should have a continuous footing.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wear ear and eye protection always when using a circular saw.\\n\", \"Wear safety glasses always when working with tools.\\n\", \"Wear personal protective equipment such as leather gloves, safety-toe work boots with good traction, and a protective hard hat.\\n\", \"Work with an assistant as the materials and tools are large and heavy.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,578 |
How to Build a Stylish Wardrobe (Guys)
|
1. Identifying Your Style
1-1. Do a quick search of men’s style.
Searching on male fashion websites such as GQ, Esquire, AskMen, or other e-magazines will give you a good idea of what men’s fashion looks like today. Identify a few looks, celebrities, or garments that you find interesting and would want to try out for yourself. Keep these in mind throughout the process of selecting pieces of clothing to put in your wardrobe.
1-2. Identify what style you’re looking to achieve.
Think about whether you would like to be perceived as sporty, edgy, classic, hipster, or something entirely different.
A sporty style incorporates items such as sneakers, athletic wear, baseball hats, sweatshirts and sports-themed t-shirts.
An edgy style can incorporate pieces with dark colors, leather jackets, boots, and scarves.
Classic style is more business-y and involves button-down shirts, slim dress pants, dress shoes, and suit jackets or blazers.
Hipster style is defined by flannel shirts, graphic t-shirts, slim-fitting pants, retro-style canvas sneakers, and beanie-style hats.
However, you don’t have to define yourself by just one style! There are many articles of clothing that fit into many different styles that can create a core wardrobe for you to choose from.
1-3. Sort through the garments you already have.
Take a look in your closet, and keep the clothing that reflects current fashion and suits your physique. Basics such as a good t-shirt or dress shirt may do wonders for your look, and provide an excellent base from which to start your new style.
1-4. Try on any piece of clothing you want to keep.
Make sure it fits properly in all of the right places. If it doesn’t fit properly and you aren’t able to get it tailored to fit, put it in a pile to donate to charity. If it needs to be tailored to fit properly, place it aside and take it to be fitted as soon as possible so you don’t forget about it.
It may be helpful to have a second opinion while trying on clothes, so reach out to an honest friend and ask them if they’ll assist you with the process of narrowing down your wardrobe.
2. Building a Core Wardrobe
2-1. Make a budget.
It will be helpful to have an idea of what you are looking to spend in relation to how many articles of clothing you will need to buy. This will determine what stores you should be shopping in.
There are options for any budget, with fast fashion such as Express and H&M, mid-priced options like Macy’s or other large retailers, and high-end options such as Saks or Nordstrom.
Keep an eye out for sales, especially online! You never know when you might find a great deal.
2-2. Purchase five well-fitting button-down shirts.
These items are staples in any man’s wardrobe, and you never know when you will need to use them. White and pale blue are universally flattering colors for button-down shirts, as well as small prints involving light colors. They’re versatile and will match any color of pants.
2-3. Purchase five solid-colored t-shirts.
Colors like white, black, navy blue, olive green, and gray will match with most of the other articles of clothing in your wardrobe. They’ll help you create a casual look.
2-4. Purchase one or two pairs of solid-colored jeans.
Dark wash jeans will match many other garments. Make sure the fit is the correct one for your body type. There are a few different styles of pants, including skinny, slim, regular, relaxed, and loose.
Most men prefer a close, but not tight, fit. Try on a few pairs to see how they look on you and what you feel most comfortable in.
2-5. Purchase one or two solid colored-sweaters.
Navy, olive, grey, or black will work best. You can use this to layer up for warmth during the colder months or just to wear by itself for a more casual look. Make sure that it is well-fitting and lightweight.
2-6. Purchase at least two pairs of dress pants.
Colors such as grey, black, khaki, or tan will work best with your other garments and make matching easy. Again, ensure that the pants are well-fitting and flattering on your body. If necessary, get measured so that you can make sure you’re purchasing the right size!
There are also options such as chinos and cords, which are less professional but can still work well with any wardrobe.
2-7. Purchase one or two pairs of casual shoes.
Pick your favorite style, but make sure they are comfortable and in a color that will match most of your wardrobe. Black and brown are the most popular options.
Casual shoes include canvas sneakers, boots, loafers, leather sneakers and oxfords.
2-8. Purchase a coat or jacket.
Depending on the weather where you live, you might need a heavier jacket. Select one that can transition from heavy to lighter depending on the weather. If you live in an area with a lot of rain, it might be helpful to purchase a rain jacket.
2-9. Purchase a suit.
Every adult man needs a well-fitting suit. You never know what opportunity might arise for you to wear it. Go to a store that specializes in fitting for men’s suits. Select a color such as black, navy, or gray.
2-10. Purchase at least one pair of dress shoes.
These will go with your suit as well as your dress pants and button-down shirts. Select a color such as black or brown that will complement your wardrobe.
Ensure that the shoes are comfortable and fit properly. You may want to walk around the store a bit while trying them on.
2-11. Try every selected article of clothing on while in the store.
Again, make sure you have an honest friend accompanying you. Check the clothing for the quality of the fabric and stitching, any tears or stains, and your ability to move in the piece. Inspect the seams closely and make sure the stitches are tight and close together. Have your friend check the fit of the garment on you as well.
Ensure that the buttons aren’t loose and there are no loose strings.
A good quality fabric will feel soft in your hand and have no tears, stains, or marks.
3. Finding Unique Pieces
3-1. Purchase a watch.
Besides being functional, a watch can pull your look together and show your style through accessorizing. Pick one that isn’t too large or too small, that fits well on your wrist, and that you can clearly read.
3-2. Purchase a pair of sunglasses.
If you live in an area with a lot of sun or with intense summers, sunglasses will definitely be useful. They can help communicate a mysterious vibe and complete your look when you’re dressing casually. Choose a pair that complement your face shape and aren’t too large or small for your face.
3-3. Purchase other accessories.
These will help to create an endless amount of different looks from a small number of outfits. Accessorizing with a tie, hat, belt, or even jewelry can take your outfit to the next level and make you stand out in a way that is unique to you.
3-4. Invest in one or two pieces of clothing that will define your style.
If you’re into the edgy look, this may be a real leather jacket. For someone interested in looking sporty, it might be a great pair of sneakers. These pieces will make you stand out and really pull together any look that you make with the basics that you purchased.
3-5. Update yourself on the latest trends.
Consider subscribing to magazines such as GQ or Esquire that specialize in men’s fashion. This will keep you updated and on-trend and thinking about new ways that you can style the pieces that you already have.
3-6. Rotate clothes seasonally.
It might be a good option for you to have a few garments that you rotate through seasonally, such as a lighter coat for spring, a few bulky sweaters or turtlenecks for autumn and winter, and tank tops for summer. This will keep your wardrobe constantly feeling refreshed and new, and it will prevent you from repeating outfits over a short period of time.
Tips
Always wear clothing that fits. Too small, and it will make you look strange as a hem is too short, or as every detail of your body shows through your shirt. By the same token, clothing that is far too big drowns the body and makes you look shorter and larger than you are.
Try to have a variety of colors and styles to mix and match, and always focus on neutrals like black, brown and white.
Be sure to have seasonal garments. Also, have garments for casual events and those for professional and dressy occasions.
Warnings
Don't be afraid to be an individual. If you like a garment and it fits, wear it!
When trying out the clothes at home, do not remove tags, you never know how you're going to feel about the clothes in a week. Only remove the tags when you are sure you're going to wear the clothes.
Try everything on before you buy it.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:10",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Identifying Your Style\\n1-1. Do a quick search of men’s style.\\nSearching on male fashion websites such as GQ, Esquire, AskMen, or other e-magazines will give you a good idea of what men’s fashion looks like today. Identify a few looks, celebrities, or garments that you find interesting and would want to try out for yourself. Keep these in mind throughout the process of selecting pieces of clothing to put in your wardrobe.\\n1-2. Identify what style you’re looking to achieve.\\nThink about whether you would like to be perceived as sporty, edgy, classic, hipster, or something entirely different.\\nA sporty style incorporates items such as sneakers, athletic wear, baseball hats, sweatshirts and sports-themed t-shirts.\\nAn edgy style can incorporate pieces with dark colors, leather jackets, boots, and scarves.\\nClassic style is more business-y and involves button-down shirts, slim dress pants, dress shoes, and suit jackets or blazers.\\nHipster style is defined by flannel shirts, graphic t-shirts, slim-fitting pants, retro-style canvas sneakers, and beanie-style hats.\\nHowever, you don’t have to define yourself by just one style! There are many articles of clothing that fit into many different styles that can create a core wardrobe for you to choose from.\\n1-3. Sort through the garments you already have.\\nTake a look in your closet, and keep the clothing that reflects current fashion and suits your physique. Basics such as a good t-shirt or dress shirt may do wonders for your look, and provide an excellent base from which to start your new style.\\n1-4. Try on any piece of clothing you want to keep.\\nMake sure it fits properly in all of the right places. If it doesn’t fit properly and you aren’t able to get it tailored to fit, put it in a pile to donate to charity. If it needs to be tailored to fit properly, place it aside and take it to be fitted as soon as possible so you don’t forget about it.\\nIt may be helpful to have a second opinion while trying on clothes, so reach out to an honest friend and ask them if they’ll assist you with the process of narrowing down your wardrobe.\\n2. Building a Core Wardrobe\\n2-1. Make a budget.\\nIt will be helpful to have an idea of what you are looking to spend in relation to how many articles of clothing you will need to buy. This will determine what stores you should be shopping in.\\nThere are options for any budget, with fast fashion such as Express and H&M, mid-priced options like Macy’s or other large retailers, and high-end options such as Saks or Nordstrom.\\nKeep an eye out for sales, especially online! You never know when you might find a great deal.\\n2-2. Purchase five well-fitting button-down shirts.\\nThese items are staples in any man’s wardrobe, and you never know when you will need to use them. White and pale blue are universally flattering colors for button-down shirts, as well as small prints involving light colors. They’re versatile and will match any color of pants.\\n2-3. Purchase five solid-colored t-shirts.\\nColors like white, black, navy blue, olive green, and gray will match with most of the other articles of clothing in your wardrobe. They’ll help you create a casual look.\\n2-4. Purchase one or two pairs of solid-colored jeans.\\nDark wash jeans will match many other garments. Make sure the fit is the correct one for your body type. There are a few different styles of pants, including skinny, slim, regular, relaxed, and loose.\\nMost men prefer a close, but not tight, fit. Try on a few pairs to see how they look on you and what you feel most comfortable in.\\n2-5. Purchase one or two solid colored-sweaters.\\nNavy, olive, grey, or black will work best. You can use this to layer up for warmth during the colder months or just to wear by itself for a more casual look. Make sure that it is well-fitting and lightweight.\\n2-6. Purchase at least two pairs of dress pants.\\nColors such as grey, black, khaki, or tan will work best with your other garments and make matching easy. Again, ensure that the pants are well-fitting and flattering on your body. If necessary, get measured so that you can make sure you’re purchasing the right size!\\nThere are also options such as chinos and cords, which are less professional but can still work well with any wardrobe.\\n2-7. Purchase one or two pairs of casual shoes.\\nPick your favorite style, but make sure they are comfortable and in a color that will match most of your wardrobe. Black and brown are the most popular options.\\nCasual shoes include canvas sneakers, boots, loafers, leather sneakers and oxfords.\\n2-8. Purchase a coat or jacket.\\nDepending on the weather where you live, you might need a heavier jacket. Select one that can transition from heavy to lighter depending on the weather. If you live in an area with a lot of rain, it might be helpful to purchase a rain jacket.\\n2-9. Purchase a suit.\\nEvery adult man needs a well-fitting suit. You never know what opportunity might arise for you to wear it. Go to a store that specializes in fitting for men’s suits. Select a color such as black, navy, or gray.\\n2-10. Purchase at least one pair of dress shoes.\\nThese will go with your suit as well as your dress pants and button-down shirts. Select a color such as black or brown that will complement your wardrobe.\\nEnsure that the shoes are comfortable and fit properly. You may want to walk around the store a bit while trying them on.\\n2-11. Try every selected article of clothing on while in the store.\\nAgain, make sure you have an honest friend accompanying you. Check the clothing for the quality of the fabric and stitching, any tears or stains, and your ability to move in the piece. Inspect the seams closely and make sure the stitches are tight and close together. Have your friend check the fit of the garment on you as well.\\nEnsure that the buttons aren’t loose and there are no loose strings.\\nA good quality fabric will feel soft in your hand and have no tears, stains, or marks.\\n3. Finding Unique Pieces\\n3-1. Purchase a watch.\\nBesides being functional, a watch can pull your look together and show your style through accessorizing. Pick one that isn’t too large or too small, that fits well on your wrist, and that you can clearly read.\\n3-2. Purchase a pair of sunglasses.\\nIf you live in an area with a lot of sun or with intense summers, sunglasses will definitely be useful. They can help communicate a mysterious vibe and complete your look when you’re dressing casually. Choose a pair that complement your face shape and aren’t too large or small for your face.\\n3-3. Purchase other accessories.\\nThese will help to create an endless amount of different looks from a small number of outfits. Accessorizing with a tie, hat, belt, or even jewelry can take your outfit to the next level and make you stand out in a way that is unique to you.\\n3-4. Invest in one or two pieces of clothing that will define your style.\\nIf you’re into the edgy look, this may be a real leather jacket. For someone interested in looking sporty, it might be a great pair of sneakers. These pieces will make you stand out and really pull together any look that you make with the basics that you purchased.\\n3-5. Update yourself on the latest trends.\\nConsider subscribing to magazines such as GQ or Esquire that specialize in men’s fashion. This will keep you updated and on-trend and thinking about new ways that you can style the pieces that you already have.\\n3-6. Rotate clothes seasonally.\\nIt might be a good option for you to have a few garments that you rotate through seasonally, such as a lighter coat for spring, a few bulky sweaters or turtlenecks for autumn and winter, and tank tops for summer. This will keep your wardrobe constantly feeling refreshed and new, and it will prevent you from repeating outfits over a short period of time.\\nTips\\nAlways wear clothing that fits. Too small, and it will make you look strange as a hem is too short, or as every detail of your body shows through your shirt. By the same token, clothing that is far too big drowns the body and makes you look shorter and larger than you are.\\nTry to have a variety of colors and styles to mix and match, and always focus on neutrals like black, brown and white.\\nBe sure to have seasonal garments. Also, have garments for casual events and those for professional and dressy occasions.\\nWarnings\\nDon't be afraid to be an individual. If you like a garment and it fits, wear it!\\nWhen trying out the clothes at home, do not remove tags, you never know how you're going to feel about the clothes in a week. Only remove the tags when you are sure you're going to wear the clothes.\\nTry everything on before you buy it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"With all of the various options for fashion that are available these days, everyone should have a wardrobe that makes them look their best. Looking good means feeling good! Though it can be difficult to dress stylishly as a guy, with the internet, a host of options in men’s clothing stores, and a little bit of time searching for the right clothes, you can create the wardrobe of your dreams.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Identifying Your Style\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Do a quick search of men’s style.\", \"描述\": \"Searching on male fashion websites such as GQ, Esquire, AskMen, or other e-magazines will give you a good idea of what men’s fashion looks like today. Identify a few looks, celebrities, or garments that you find interesting and would want to try out for yourself. Keep these in mind throughout the process of selecting pieces of clothing to put in your wardrobe.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Identify what style you’re looking to achieve.\", \"描述\": \"Think about whether you would like to be perceived as sporty, edgy, classic, hipster, or something entirely different.\\nA sporty style incorporates items such as sneakers, athletic wear, baseball hats, sweatshirts and sports-themed t-shirts.\\nAn edgy style can incorporate pieces with dark colors, leather jackets, boots, and scarves.\\nClassic style is more business-y and involves button-down shirts, slim dress pants, dress shoes, and suit jackets or blazers.\\nHipster style is defined by flannel shirts, graphic t-shirts, slim-fitting pants, retro-style canvas sneakers, and beanie-style hats.\\nHowever, you don’t have to define yourself by just one style! There are many articles of clothing that fit into many different styles that can create a core wardrobe for you to choose from.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sort through the garments you already have.\", \"描述\": \"Take a look in your closet, and keep the clothing that reflects current fashion and suits your physique. Basics such as a good t-shirt or dress shirt may do wonders for your look, and provide an excellent base from which to start your new style.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try on any piece of clothing you want to keep.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure it fits properly in all of the right places. If it doesn’t fit properly and you aren’t able to get it tailored to fit, put it in a pile to donate to charity. If it needs to be tailored to fit properly, place it aside and take it to be fitted as soon as possible so you don’t forget about it.\\nIt may be helpful to have a second opinion while trying on clothes, so reach out to an honest friend and ask them if they’ll assist you with the process of narrowing down your wardrobe.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Core Wardrobe\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a budget.\", \"描述\": \"It will be helpful to have an idea of what you are looking to spend in relation to how many articles of clothing you will need to buy. This will determine what stores you should be shopping in.\\nThere are options for any budget, with fast fashion such as Express and H&M, mid-priced options like Macy’s or other large retailers, and high-end options such as Saks or Nordstrom.\\nKeep an eye out for sales, especially online! You never know when you might find a great deal.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase five well-fitting button-down shirts.\", \"描述\": \"These items are staples in any man’s wardrobe, and you never know when you will need to use them. White and pale blue are universally flattering colors for button-down shirts, as well as small prints involving light colors. They’re versatile and will match any color of pants.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase five solid-colored t-shirts.\", \"描述\": \"Colors like white, black, navy blue, olive green, and gray will match with most of the other articles of clothing in your wardrobe. They’ll help you create a casual look.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Purchase one or two pairs of solid-colored jeans.\", \"描述\": \"Dark wash jeans will match many other garments. Make sure the fit is the correct one for your body type. There are a few different styles of pants, including skinny, slim, regular, relaxed, and loose.\\nMost men prefer a close, but not tight, fit. Try on a few pairs to see how they look on you and what you feel most comfortable in.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Purchase one or two solid colored-sweaters.\", \"描述\": \"Navy, olive, grey, or black will work best. You can use this to layer up for warmth during the colder months or just to wear by itself for a more casual look. Make sure that it is well-fitting and lightweight.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Purchase at least two pairs of dress pants.\", \"描述\": \"Colors such as grey, black, khaki, or tan will work best with your other garments and make matching easy. Again, ensure that the pants are well-fitting and flattering on your body. If necessary, get measured so that you can make sure you’re purchasing the right size!\\nThere are also options such as chinos and cords, which are less professional but can still work well with any wardrobe.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Purchase one or two pairs of casual shoes.\", \"描述\": \"Pick your favorite style, but make sure they are comfortable and in a color that will match most of your wardrobe. Black and brown are the most popular options.\\nCasual shoes include canvas sneakers, boots, loafers, leather sneakers and oxfords.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Purchase a coat or jacket.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the weather where you live, you might need a heavier jacket. Select one that can transition from heavy to lighter depending on the weather. If you live in an area with a lot of rain, it might be helpful to purchase a rain jacket.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Purchase a suit.\", \"描述\": \"Every adult man needs a well-fitting suit. You never know what opportunity might arise for you to wear it. Go to a store that specializes in fitting for men’s suits. Select a color such as black, navy, or gray.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Purchase at least one pair of dress shoes.\", \"描述\": \"These will go with your suit as well as your dress pants and button-down shirts. Select a color such as black or brown that will complement your wardrobe.\\nEnsure that the shoes are comfortable and fit properly. You may want to walk around the store a bit while trying them on.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Try every selected article of clothing on while in the store.\", \"描述\": \"Again, make sure you have an honest friend accompanying you. Check the clothing for the quality of the fabric and stitching, any tears or stains, and your ability to move in the piece. Inspect the seams closely and make sure the stitches are tight and close together. Have your friend check the fit of the garment on you as well.\\nEnsure that the buttons aren’t loose and there are no loose strings.\\nA good quality fabric will feel soft in your hand and have no tears, stains, or marks.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finding Unique Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase a watch.\", \"描述\": \"Besides being functional, a watch can pull your look together and show your style through accessorizing. Pick one that isn’t too large or too small, that fits well on your wrist, and that you can clearly read.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase a pair of sunglasses.\", \"描述\": \"If you live in an area with a lot of sun or with intense summers, sunglasses will definitely be useful. They can help communicate a mysterious vibe and complete your look when you’re dressing casually. Choose a pair that complement your face shape and aren’t too large or small for your face.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase other accessories.\", \"描述\": \"These will help to create an endless amount of different looks from a small number of outfits. Accessorizing with a tie, hat, belt, or even jewelry can take your outfit to the next level and make you stand out in a way that is unique to you.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Invest in one or two pieces of clothing that will define your style.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re into the edgy look, this may be a real leather jacket. For someone interested in looking sporty, it might be a great pair of sneakers. These pieces will make you stand out and really pull together any look that you make with the basics that you purchased.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Update yourself on the latest trends.\", \"描述\": \"Consider subscribing to magazines such as GQ or Esquire that specialize in men’s fashion. This will keep you updated and on-trend and thinking about new ways that you can style the pieces that you already have.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Rotate clothes seasonally.\", \"描述\": \"It might be a good option for you to have a few garments that you rotate through seasonally, such as a lighter coat for spring, a few bulky sweaters or turtlenecks for autumn and winter, and tank tops for summer. This will keep your wardrobe constantly feeling refreshed and new, and it will prevent you from repeating outfits over a short period of time.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Always wear clothing that fits. Too small, and it will make you look strange as a hem is too short, or as every detail of your body shows through your shirt. By the same token, clothing that is far too big drowns the body and makes you look shorter and larger than you are.\\n\", \"Try to have a variety of colors and styles to mix and match, and always focus on neutrals like black, brown and white.\\n\", \"Be sure to have seasonal garments. Also, have garments for casual events and those for professional and dressy occasions.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't be afraid to be an individual. If you like a garment and it fits, wear it!\\n\", \"When trying out the clothes at home, do not remove tags, you never know how you're going to feel about the clothes in a week. Only remove the tags when you are sure you're going to wear the clothes.\\n\", \"Try everything on before you buy it.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,579 |
How to Build a Successful Employee Recognition Program
|
1. Laying the Program's Groundwork
1-1. Understand the benefits of the program.
Employee recognition programs are designed to let employees know that their hard work is appreciated. Beyond letting your employees know that they are valued, these programs can also help boost productivity and performance. Before you create your employee recognition program, take a look at some of the main benefits that a program like this can bring:
Gain a better understanding of how you can improve company functions and policy.
Learn where you could save money and cut expenses.
Encourage your employees to go above and beyond regular duties.
Improve attitudes and teamwork.
1-2. Discover what the main goals of any program should be.
Although the specifics of your employee recognition program will be up to you, there are some common goals that all good programs will share. Knowing the basic goals can help make your program a success. Take a look at some of the following common goals to help you create a great employee recognition program.
Your program should inspire employees to be their best.
You'll need to learn how to clearly communicate your goals, needs, and expectations to those participating in your program.
Your employees should know how to participate in the program.
Let employees know how they make an impact on the company.
1-3. Include formal and informal recognition.
A good employee recognition program will have two methods of rewarding performance. These methods will allow your employees to feel recognized both personally and officially. Take a look at some of these examples of formal and informal rewards for your own program:
Covering for someone who is ill, staying late to work on a project with a coworker or going the extra mile for your team are all good examples of informal recognition.
Your official rewards program will deliver formal recognition for your employee's hard work.
2. Creating the Program
2-1. Set up a committee.
The first step in forming your employee recognition program will be to form a committee. The committee will handle the formation of the program, it's implementation, and the management of it once it's established. To help you form your committee, keep some of these tips in mind:
It can be a good idea to mix both employees and managers on your committee.
You'll want to determine how long members are appointed to the committee.
You should decide how members are selected to serve on the committee.
Decide how many members you will need for your group.
2-2. Outline the program's objectives.
Your employee recognition program will need to have clear objectives. These objectives will help your program have direct goals and develop steps to achieve them. A good employee recognition program will:
Match the needs of your employees.
Reward desirable behaviors.
Be fair and inclusive.
Comply with other company rules and regulations.
Be sincere, meaningful, adaptable, relevant, and timely.
2-3. Define the criteria for awards.
In order to offer rewards for certain actions, you'll need to decide which actions should be rewarded. Knowing which behaviors and actions lead to a reward can help you create a sensible and effective program. Any award criteria should encourage and reward key behaviors that you want to foster in your company. Review the following examples of behavioral criteria to learn which might be a good fit for your program:
Excellent customer service
Being a good leader
Putting in extra effort
Performing professional duties well
Being a good team member
Demonstrating flexibility or being innovative
2-4. Think about which rewards you want to offer.
After you've decided which behaviors you want to reward, you'll need to decide how you want to reward them. Your rewards could by anything, but they should be sincere, genuine and something that your employees feel is valuable or worth earning. You might consider using some of these examples when thinking about which rewards you want to offer to your employees:
Framed certificates of excellence.
Gift certificates.
Plaques
Tickets to local events
Gift cards
Pins or stickers
2-5. Decide who can earn an award and when.
Now that you know which behaviors are rewarded and how you plan on rewarding them, you can decide how often to offer those rewards. The committee tasked with building your recognition program will need to choose which employees are eligible for a reward, when they can receive an award and how often rewards are issued.
You'll want to decide how many awards an employee could win.
Decide how often an employee can win an award.
You should choose a regular time to send out rewards.
You will need to select which employees are eligible for a reward. For example, you may choose to offer rewards to only full-time employees or employees that have worked with the company for a number of years.
2-6. Decide the nomination and selection procedures.
After you decide who is eligible for a reward and when, you'll want to determine how they can be nominated for those rewards. You will also need to decide how you select the recipients of awards, making it clear who can win the award and when. Work with your committee to answer some of these questions regarding your employee recognition program:
Will nominations be kept confidential or will they be public?
Who can submit nominations?
What information about a nominee should be provided?
How should nominations be submitted?
Who will review nominations?
Who will be deciding the recipients of awards.
3. Launching the Recognition Program
3-1. Advertise your program.
Once you have the framework of your employee recognition program in place, you'll want to start promoting it. Getting employees excited and interested in the program can help them take part in it once you officially begin. Your employees will also know what to expect from the program, how to participate, and which rewards they can earn. Try promoting your program by using some of these methods:
Send detailed emails out to employees.
Include information about the program in your company's newsletter.
Promote the program on your company's website.
Post details of the program on company bulletin boards.
Hold meetings and discuss the program.
3-2. Launch the program.
Now that your program has been finalized and your employees have been made aware of it, it's time to officially launch the program. You'll want to have a clear start date for the program, allowing you to carefully track the effect it has on your company and to allow your employees to know when they can begin taking part. Make sure everyone at your company is aware of the recognition program to help make it a success.
You might have a small event or ceremony to build excitement and launch your program.
Keep track of employee engagement levels as your program beings.
You'll want to begin looking for any increase in the performance targets the program was designed around.
3-3. Monitor the program.
After your program launches, all that's left to do is make sure it's running properly. Carefully tracking the program will allow you to determine how well it's working, the effect it's having on your employees, and any changes that you might need to make. Keep track of the program and monitor its success to help engage your employees and recognize them for their hard work.
You'll want to track how satisfied employees are with the program.
You may need to change employee eligibility requirements for your program.
You may decide to offer different rewards.
You may need to assign more people to the reward program committee.
You might need to adjust the size of your program due to available funding.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:10",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Laying the Program's Groundwork\\n1-1. Understand the benefits of the program.\\nEmployee recognition programs are designed to let employees know that their hard work is appreciated. Beyond letting your employees know that they are valued, these programs can also help boost productivity and performance. Before you create your employee recognition program, take a look at some of the main benefits that a program like this can bring:\\nGain a better understanding of how you can improve company functions and policy.\\nLearn where you could save money and cut expenses.\\nEncourage your employees to go above and beyond regular duties.\\nImprove attitudes and teamwork.\\n1-2. Discover what the main goals of any program should be.\\nAlthough the specifics of your employee recognition program will be up to you, there are some common goals that all good programs will share. Knowing the basic goals can help make your program a success. Take a look at some of the following common goals to help you create a great employee recognition program.\\nYour program should inspire employees to be their best.\\nYou'll need to learn how to clearly communicate your goals, needs, and expectations to those participating in your program.\\nYour employees should know how to participate in the program.\\nLet employees know how they make an impact on the company.\\n1-3. Include formal and informal recognition.\\nA good employee recognition program will have two methods of rewarding performance. These methods will allow your employees to feel recognized both personally and officially. Take a look at some of these examples of formal and informal rewards for your own program:\\nCovering for someone who is ill, staying late to work on a project with a coworker or going the extra mile for your team are all good examples of informal recognition.\\nYour official rewards program will deliver formal recognition for your employee's hard work.\\n2. Creating the Program\\n2-1. Set up a committee.\\nThe first step in forming your employee recognition program will be to form a committee. The committee will handle the formation of the program, it's implementation, and the management of it once it's established. To help you form your committee, keep some of these tips in mind:\\nIt can be a good idea to mix both employees and managers on your committee.\\nYou'll want to determine how long members are appointed to the committee.\\nYou should decide how members are selected to serve on the committee.\\nDecide how many members you will need for your group.\\n2-2. Outline the program's objectives.\\nYour employee recognition program will need to have clear objectives. These objectives will help your program have direct goals and develop steps to achieve them. A good employee recognition program will:\\nMatch the needs of your employees.\\nReward desirable behaviors.\\nBe fair and inclusive.\\nComply with other company rules and regulations.\\nBe sincere, meaningful, adaptable, relevant, and timely.\\n2-3. Define the criteria for awards.\\nIn order to offer rewards for certain actions, you'll need to decide which actions should be rewarded. Knowing which behaviors and actions lead to a reward can help you create a sensible and effective program. Any award criteria should encourage and reward key behaviors that you want to foster in your company. Review the following examples of behavioral criteria to learn which might be a good fit for your program: \\nExcellent customer service\\nBeing a good leader\\nPutting in extra effort\\nPerforming professional duties well\\nBeing a good team member\\nDemonstrating flexibility or being innovative\\n2-4. Think about which rewards you want to offer.\\nAfter you've decided which behaviors you want to reward, you'll need to decide how you want to reward them. Your rewards could by anything, but they should be sincere, genuine and something that your employees feel is valuable or worth earning. You might consider using some of these examples when thinking about which rewards you want to offer to your employees:\\nFramed certificates of excellence.\\nGift certificates.\\nPlaques\\nTickets to local events\\nGift cards\\nPins or stickers\\n2-5. Decide who can earn an award and when.\\nNow that you know which behaviors are rewarded and how you plan on rewarding them, you can decide how often to offer those rewards. The committee tasked with building your recognition program will need to choose which employees are eligible for a reward, when they can receive an award and how often rewards are issued.\\nYou'll want to decide how many awards an employee could win.\\nDecide how often an employee can win an award.\\nYou should choose a regular time to send out rewards.\\nYou will need to select which employees are eligible for a reward. For example, you may choose to offer rewards to only full-time employees or employees that have worked with the company for a number of years.\\n2-6. Decide the nomination and selection procedures.\\nAfter you decide who is eligible for a reward and when, you'll want to determine how they can be nominated for those rewards. You will also need to decide how you select the recipients of awards, making it clear who can win the award and when. Work with your committee to answer some of these questions regarding your employee recognition program: \\nWill nominations be kept confidential or will they be public?\\nWho can submit nominations?\\nWhat information about a nominee should be provided?\\nHow should nominations be submitted?\\nWho will review nominations?\\nWho will be deciding the recipients of awards.\\n3. Launching the Recognition Program\\n3-1. Advertise your program.\\nOnce you have the framework of your employee recognition program in place, you'll want to start promoting it. Getting employees excited and interested in the program can help them take part in it once you officially begin. Your employees will also know what to expect from the program, how to participate, and which rewards they can earn. Try promoting your program by using some of these methods: \\nSend detailed emails out to employees.\\nInclude information about the program in your company's newsletter.\\nPromote the program on your company's website.\\nPost details of the program on company bulletin boards.\\nHold meetings and discuss the program.\\n3-2. Launch the program.\\nNow that your program has been finalized and your employees have been made aware of it, it's time to officially launch the program. You'll want to have a clear start date for the program, allowing you to carefully track the effect it has on your company and to allow your employees to know when they can begin taking part. Make sure everyone at your company is aware of the recognition program to help make it a success.\\nYou might have a small event or ceremony to build excitement and launch your program.\\nKeep track of employee engagement levels as your program beings.\\nYou'll want to begin looking for any increase in the performance targets the program was designed around.\\n3-3. Monitor the program.\\nAfter your program launches, all that's left to do is make sure it's running properly. Carefully tracking the program will allow you to determine how well it's working, the effect it's having on your employees, and any changes that you might need to make. Keep track of the program and monitor its success to help engage your employees and recognize them for their hard work. \\nYou'll want to track how satisfied employees are with the program.\\nYou may need to change employee eligibility requirements for your program.\\nYou may decide to offer different rewards.\\nYou may need to assign more people to the reward program committee.\\nYou might need to adjust the size of your program due to available funding.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Your employees work hard and recognizing their hard work can be a great way to let them know that you appreciate their efforts. One way to recognize your employee's contribution is to create an employee recognition program. This program will allow your employees to demonstrate their achievements, foster company values, and improve overall workplace efficiency and atmosphere. You'll need to carefully plan your program, decide who will be involved, and clearly inform your employees about it to help ensure it is a success.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Laying the Program's Groundwork\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the benefits of the program.\", \"描述\": \"Employee recognition programs are designed to let employees know that their hard work is appreciated. Beyond letting your employees know that they are valued, these programs can also help boost productivity and performance. Before you create your employee recognition program, take a look at some of the main benefits that a program like this can bring:\\nGain a better understanding of how you can improve company functions and policy.\\nLearn where you could save money and cut expenses.\\nEncourage your employees to go above and beyond regular duties.\\nImprove attitudes and teamwork.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Discover what the main goals of any program should be.\", \"描述\": \"Although the specifics of your employee recognition program will be up to you, there are some common goals that all good programs will share. Knowing the basic goals can help make your program a success. Take a look at some of the following common goals to help you create a great employee recognition program.\\nYour program should inspire employees to be their best.\\nYou'll need to learn how to clearly communicate your goals, needs, and expectations to those participating in your program.\\nYour employees should know how to participate in the program.\\nLet employees know how they make an impact on the company.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Include formal and informal recognition.\", \"描述\": \"A good employee recognition program will have two methods of rewarding performance. These methods will allow your employees to feel recognized both personally and officially. Take a look at some of these examples of formal and informal rewards for your own program:\\nCovering for someone who is ill, staying late to work on a project with a coworker or going the extra mile for your team are all good examples of informal recognition.\\nYour official rewards program will deliver formal recognition for your employee's hard work.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Program\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set up a committee.\", \"描述\": \"The first step in forming your employee recognition program will be to form a committee. The committee will handle the formation of the program, it's implementation, and the management of it once it's established. To help you form your committee, keep some of these tips in mind:\\nIt can be a good idea to mix both employees and managers on your committee.\\nYou'll want to determine how long members are appointed to the committee.\\nYou should decide how members are selected to serve on the committee.\\nDecide how many members you will need for your group.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Outline the program's objectives.\", \"描述\": \"Your employee recognition program will need to have clear objectives. These objectives will help your program have direct goals and develop steps to achieve them. A good employee recognition program will:\\nMatch the needs of your employees.\\nReward desirable behaviors.\\nBe fair and inclusive.\\nComply with other company rules and regulations.\\nBe sincere, meaningful, adaptable, relevant, and timely.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Define the criteria for awards.\", \"描述\": \"In order to offer rewards for certain actions, you'll need to decide which actions should be rewarded. Knowing which behaviors and actions lead to a reward can help you create a sensible and effective program. Any award criteria should encourage and reward key behaviors that you want to foster in your company. Review the following examples of behavioral criteria to learn which might be a good fit for your program: \\nExcellent customer service\\nBeing a good leader\\nPutting in extra effort\\nPerforming professional duties well\\nBeing a good team member\\nDemonstrating flexibility or being innovative\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Think about which rewards you want to offer.\", \"描述\": \"After you've decided which behaviors you want to reward, you'll need to decide how you want to reward them. Your rewards could by anything, but they should be sincere, genuine and something that your employees feel is valuable or worth earning. You might consider using some of these examples when thinking about which rewards you want to offer to your employees:\\nFramed certificates of excellence.\\nGift certificates.\\nPlaques\\nTickets to local events\\nGift cards\\nPins or stickers\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Decide who can earn an award and when.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you know which behaviors are rewarded and how you plan on rewarding them, you can decide how often to offer those rewards. The committee tasked with building your recognition program will need to choose which employees are eligible for a reward, when they can receive an award and how often rewards are issued.\\nYou'll want to decide how many awards an employee could win.\\nDecide how often an employee can win an award.\\nYou should choose a regular time to send out rewards.\\nYou will need to select which employees are eligible for a reward. For example, you may choose to offer rewards to only full-time employees or employees that have worked with the company for a number of years.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decide the nomination and selection procedures.\", \"描述\": \"After you decide who is eligible for a reward and when, you'll want to determine how they can be nominated for those rewards. You will also need to decide how you select the recipients of awards, making it clear who can win the award and when. Work with your committee to answer some of these questions regarding your employee recognition program: \\nWill nominations be kept confidential or will they be public?\\nWho can submit nominations?\\nWhat information about a nominee should be provided?\\nHow should nominations be submitted?\\nWho will review nominations?\\nWho will be deciding the recipients of awards.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Launching the Recognition Program\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Advertise your program.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the framework of your employee recognition program in place, you'll want to start promoting it. Getting employees excited and interested in the program can help them take part in it once you officially begin. Your employees will also know what to expect from the program, how to participate, and which rewards they can earn. Try promoting your program by using some of these methods: \\nSend detailed emails out to employees.\\nInclude information about the program in your company's newsletter.\\nPromote the program on your company's website.\\nPost details of the program on company bulletin boards.\\nHold meetings and discuss the program.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Launch the program.\", \"描述\": \"Now that your program has been finalized and your employees have been made aware of it, it's time to officially launch the program. You'll want to have a clear start date for the program, allowing you to carefully track the effect it has on your company and to allow your employees to know when they can begin taking part. Make sure everyone at your company is aware of the recognition program to help make it a success.\\nYou might have a small event or ceremony to build excitement and launch your program.\\nKeep track of employee engagement levels as your program beings.\\nYou'll want to begin looking for any increase in the performance targets the program was designed around.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Monitor the program.\", \"描述\": \"After your program launches, all that's left to do is make sure it's running properly. Carefully tracking the program will allow you to determine how well it's working, the effect it's having on your employees, and any changes that you might need to make. Keep track of the program and monitor its success to help engage your employees and recognize them for their hard work. \\nYou'll want to track how satisfied employees are with the program.\\nYou may need to change employee eligibility requirements for your program.\\nYou may decide to offer different rewards.\\nYou may need to assign more people to the reward program committee.\\nYou might need to adjust the size of your program due to available funding.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,580 |
How to Build a Sukkah
|
1. Designing Your Sukkah
1-1. Start building at the right time.
Most experts suggest that you should start building your sukkah right at the end of Yom Kippur. If you cannot start building at the end of the day, then start early the next morning. Ideally, the structure should be finished on the day after Yom Kippur, but don’t finish until the structure is built safely.
1-2. Choose a spot outdoors.
Building your sukkah near your home is ideal for convenience. One important condition, however, is that nothing must be blocking the top of your sukkah from the open sky. This means that no tree limbs, roofs, etc. should hang over it.
The sukkah must be exposed to open sky because it must be able to provide functional shade to represent the protection similar huts gave Jews in the wilderness. Functional shade means that the sukkah's roof will block most sunlight, but let some shine through to make a person aware of the shade.
If you do not have a yard, you can build a sukkah on a balcony (as long as it is not covered by another balcony).
1-3. Plan your sukkah.
A sukkah should have a minimum of at least two walls plus part of a third wall (at least 3.2 inches wide). However, it is preferable for the sukkah to have four full walls. There does not need to be an actual door, but there must at least be a doorway so that you can enter the structure. Your sukkah must also have a roof. The structure should be at least 32 inches high, but not taller than 30 feet (about 10 meters or 20 amount).
These size specifications are determined by traditional Jewish law to ensure that the sukkah is large enough to serve the basic functions of a dwelling: eating and sleeping.
You can make a sukkah that is larger than the minimum if you want to have room for more people in it, or space for other activities.
1-4. Gather materials.
You can use any materials to build the walls of the sukkah, but you must use special raw plant-based material (sechach) to build the roof. It helps to gather all of your materials before beginning to build your sukkah. However, you must build it in the right order. The roof material should not be laid until you have completed the walls.
2. Building and Using Your Sukkah
2-1. Build the walls.
Keep in mind that the walls of your sukkah should be at least 32 inches high, and larger than 22.4 inches in length and breadth. A floor space of at least 27 by 27 inches (70cm x 70cm or seven tefachim by seven tefachim) is recommended, to provide enough room for a person to sit down. There can be gaps in the material making up the sukkah’s walls. However, these gaps should not be wider than 9.6 inches. You can make the walls of your sukkah out of any material that is suitable enough not to be blown around in the wind. For instance, you could:
Stretch canvas, sheets, or plastic around metal poles.
Build simple walls of planks of wood
Stack cinder blocks
Use an existing wall of your home as a portion of the sukkah and build other walls out of materials to complete it.
2-2. Build the roof covering.
To be kosher, the roof of a sukkah must be made out of sechach, or raw plant material not used for any other purpose, as the Book of Deuteronomy (16:14) specifies. You can lay long strips of material over the walls of your sukkah, then build up layers of sechach until the roof is thick enough to block out most sunlight, but let some shine through. Do not tie down or support the roof with any non-sechach materials, especially metal. Possible materials for building the roof can include:
Bamboo
Evergreen branches
Reeds
Corn stalks
Straw
Special schechach mats (these must be designed and intended specifically for serving as the roof of a sukkah)
2-3. Embellish your sukkah.
You can add lighting (such as a portable lamp and an extension cord), chairs and/or a table, posters, or fresh fruit to decorate your sukkah. This makes the dwelling more festive and personal. However, Chabad custom encourages the act of building and using the sukkah in remembrance to be thought of as real beauty.
2-4. Rebuild your sukkah each year.
You can reuse the base of your sukkah each year. However, you must replace the sechach materials of the roof. Store the structure safely to protect it from wind and water.
2-5. Use the sukkah.
Once your sukkah is built, you should use it for seven days, according to Leviticus 23:42. This period serves as a remembrance of the time that Jews spent in the wilderness. The basic function of a sukkah is to provide shade, and room for sleeping and eating.
According to tradition, you should eat at least your meals (if not all snacks) in the sukkah during Sukkot.
You can sleep in the sukkah if you want, but you do not have to if it is uncomfortable (too hot, too cold, wet, etc.) or inconvenient.
The sukkah is a symbolic dwelling, so you can also use it for other activities you would normally do in your home, such as working, talking with friends and family, reading a book, etc.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:10",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing Your Sukkah\\n1-1. Start building at the right time.\\nMost experts suggest that you should start building your sukkah right at the end of Yom Kippur. If you cannot start building at the end of the day, then start early the next morning. Ideally, the structure should be finished on the day after Yom Kippur, but don’t finish until the structure is built safely.\\n1-2. Choose a spot outdoors.\\nBuilding your sukkah near your home is ideal for convenience. One important condition, however, is that nothing must be blocking the top of your sukkah from the open sky. This means that no tree limbs, roofs, etc. should hang over it.\\nThe sukkah must be exposed to open sky because it must be able to provide functional shade to represent the protection similar huts gave Jews in the wilderness. Functional shade means that the sukkah's roof will block most sunlight, but let some shine through to make a person aware of the shade.\\nIf you do not have a yard, you can build a sukkah on a balcony (as long as it is not covered by another balcony).\\n1-3. Plan your sukkah.\\nA sukkah should have a minimum of at least two walls plus part of a third wall (at least 3.2 inches wide). However, it is preferable for the sukkah to have four full walls. There does not need to be an actual door, but there must at least be a doorway so that you can enter the structure. Your sukkah must also have a roof. The structure should be at least 32 inches high, but not taller than 30 feet (about 10 meters or 20 amount).\\nThese size specifications are determined by traditional Jewish law to ensure that the sukkah is large enough to serve the basic functions of a dwelling: eating and sleeping.\\nYou can make a sukkah that is larger than the minimum if you want to have room for more people in it, or space for other activities.\\n1-4. Gather materials.\\nYou can use any materials to build the walls of the sukkah, but you must use special raw plant-based material (sechach) to build the roof. It helps to gather all of your materials before beginning to build your sukkah. However, you must build it in the right order. The roof material should not be laid until you have completed the walls.\\n2. Building and Using Your Sukkah\\n2-1. Build the walls.\\nKeep in mind that the walls of your sukkah should be at least 32 inches high, and larger than 22.4 inches in length and breadth. A floor space of at least 27 by 27 inches (70cm x 70cm or seven tefachim by seven tefachim) is recommended, to provide enough room for a person to sit down. There can be gaps in the material making up the sukkah’s walls. However, these gaps should not be wider than 9.6 inches. You can make the walls of your sukkah out of any material that is suitable enough not to be blown around in the wind. For instance, you could:\\nStretch canvas, sheets, or plastic around metal poles.\\nBuild simple walls of planks of wood\\nStack cinder blocks\\nUse an existing wall of your home as a portion of the sukkah and build other walls out of materials to complete it.\\n2-2. Build the roof covering.\\nTo be kosher, the roof of a sukkah must be made out of sechach, or raw plant material not used for any other purpose, as the Book of Deuteronomy (16:14) specifies. You can lay long strips of material over the walls of your sukkah, then build up layers of sechach until the roof is thick enough to block out most sunlight, but let some shine through. Do not tie down or support the roof with any non-sechach materials, especially metal. Possible materials for building the roof can include:\\nBamboo\\nEvergreen branches\\nReeds\\nCorn stalks\\nStraw\\nSpecial schechach mats (these must be designed and intended specifically for serving as the roof of a sukkah)\\n2-3. Embellish your sukkah.\\nYou can add lighting (such as a portable lamp and an extension cord), chairs and/or a table, posters, or fresh fruit to decorate your sukkah. This makes the dwelling more festive and personal. However, Chabad custom encourages the act of building and using the sukkah in remembrance to be thought of as real beauty.\\n2-4. Rebuild your sukkah each year.\\nYou can reuse the base of your sukkah each year. However, you must replace the sechach materials of the roof. Store the structure safely to protect it from wind and water.\\n2-5. Use the sukkah.\\nOnce your sukkah is built, you should use it for seven days, according to Leviticus 23:42. This period serves as a remembrance of the time that Jews spent in the wilderness. The basic function of a sukkah is to provide shade, and room for sleeping and eating.\\nAccording to tradition, you should eat at least your meals (if not all snacks) in the sukkah during Sukkot.\\nYou can sleep in the sukkah if you want, but you do not have to if it is uncomfortable (too hot, too cold, wet, etc.) or inconvenient.\\nThe sukkah is a symbolic dwelling, so you can also use it for other activities you would normally do in your home, such as working, talking with friends and family, reading a book, etc.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A sukkah is a simple hut used during the Jewish holiday of Sukkot. It is a symbolic dwelling that commemorates the time that the Israelites spent in the wilderness after they were freed from slavery in Egypt. With a few simple materials and a little time, you can build your own sukkah to use during this celebration.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing Your Sukkah\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start building at the right time.\", \"描述\": \"Most experts suggest that you should start building your sukkah right at the end of Yom Kippur. If you cannot start building at the end of the day, then start early the next morning. Ideally, the structure should be finished on the day after Yom Kippur, but don’t finish until the structure is built safely.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a spot outdoors.\", \"描述\": \"Building your sukkah near your home is ideal for convenience. One important condition, however, is that nothing must be blocking the top of your sukkah from the open sky. This means that no tree limbs, roofs, etc. should hang over it.\\nThe sukkah must be exposed to open sky because it must be able to provide functional shade to represent the protection similar huts gave Jews in the wilderness. Functional shade means that the sukkah's roof will block most sunlight, but let some shine through to make a person aware of the shade.\\nIf you do not have a yard, you can build a sukkah on a balcony (as long as it is not covered by another balcony).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plan your sukkah.\", \"描述\": \"A sukkah should have a minimum of at least two walls plus part of a third wall (at least 3.2 inches wide). However, it is preferable for the sukkah to have four full walls. There does not need to be an actual door, but there must at least be a doorway so that you can enter the structure. Your sukkah must also have a roof. The structure should be at least 32 inches high, but not taller than 30 feet (about 10 meters or 20 amount).\\nThese size specifications are determined by traditional Jewish law to ensure that the sukkah is large enough to serve the basic functions of a dwelling: eating and sleeping.\\nYou can make a sukkah that is larger than the minimum if you want to have room for more people in it, or space for other activities.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Gather materials.\", \"描述\": \"You can use any materials to build the walls of the sukkah, but you must use special raw plant-based material (sechach) to build the roof. It helps to gather all of your materials before beginning to build your sukkah. However, you must build it in the right order. The roof material should not be laid until you have completed the walls.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building and Using Your Sukkah\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Keep in mind that the walls of your sukkah should be at least 32 inches high, and larger than 22.4 inches in length and breadth. A floor space of at least 27 by 27 inches (70cm x 70cm or seven tefachim by seven tefachim) is recommended, to provide enough room for a person to sit down. There can be gaps in the material making up the sukkah’s walls. However, these gaps should not be wider than 9.6 inches. You can make the walls of your sukkah out of any material that is suitable enough not to be blown around in the wind. For instance, you could:\\nStretch canvas, sheets, or plastic around metal poles.\\nBuild simple walls of planks of wood\\nStack cinder blocks\\nUse an existing wall of your home as a portion of the sukkah and build other walls out of materials to complete it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the roof covering.\", \"描述\": \"To be kosher, the roof of a sukkah must be made out of sechach, or raw plant material not used for any other purpose, as the Book of Deuteronomy (16:14) specifies. You can lay long strips of material over the walls of your sukkah, then build up layers of sechach until the roof is thick enough to block out most sunlight, but let some shine through. Do not tie down or support the roof with any non-sechach materials, especially metal. Possible materials for building the roof can include:\\nBamboo\\nEvergreen branches\\nReeds\\nCorn stalks\\nStraw\\nSpecial schechach mats (these must be designed and intended specifically for serving as the roof of a sukkah)\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Embellish your sukkah.\", \"描述\": \"You can add lighting (such as a portable lamp and an extension cord), chairs and/or a table, posters, or fresh fruit to decorate your sukkah. This makes the dwelling more festive and personal. However, Chabad custom encourages the act of building and using the sukkah in remembrance to be thought of as real beauty.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Rebuild your sukkah each year.\", \"描述\": \"You can reuse the base of your sukkah each year. However, you must replace the sechach materials of the roof. Store the structure safely to protect it from wind and water.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use the sukkah.\", \"描述\": \"Once your sukkah is built, you should use it for seven days, according to Leviticus 23:42. This period serves as a remembrance of the time that Jews spent in the wilderness. The basic function of a sukkah is to provide shade, and room for sleeping and eating.\\nAccording to tradition, you should eat at least your meals (if not all snacks) in the sukkah during Sukkot.\\nYou can sleep in the sukkah if you want, but you do not have to if it is uncomfortable (too hot, too cold, wet, etc.) or inconvenient.\\nThe sukkah is a symbolic dwelling, so you can also use it for other activities you would normally do in your home, such as working, talking with friends and family, reading a book, etc.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,581 |
How to Build a Super Paper Airplane
|
1. Steps
1-1. Make sure the short side of the paper is facing you.
Fold it in half lengthwise.
1-2. Fold the top edges so they are aligned with the center.
1-3. Fold the top point down to the bottom edge and crease it .
1-4. Fold the top edges, so they are aligned with the middle.
1-5. Fold the little tab in the middle up, making a lock.
1-6. Fold it in half lengthwise.
1-7. Fold wings.
1-8. Finish!
For a good flight, throw it up as hard as you can.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:10",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Make sure the short side of the paper is facing you.\\nFold it in half lengthwise.\\n1-2. Fold the top edges so they are aligned with the center.\\n\\n1-3. Fold the top point down to the bottom edge and crease it .\\n\\n1-4. Fold the top edges, so they are aligned with the middle.\\n\\n1-5. Fold the little tab in the middle up, making a lock.\\n\\n1-6. Fold it in half lengthwise.\\n\\n1-7. Fold wings.\\n\\n1-8. Finish!\\nFor a good flight, throw it up as hard as you can.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"For anyone who’s ever dreamed of taking to the skies, there’s no better place to start than with a paper airplane. This wikiHow teaches you how to make an impressive paper airplane that flies very well in the air.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure the short side of the paper is facing you.\", \"描述\": \"Fold it in half lengthwise.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fold the top edges so they are aligned with the center.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fold the top point down to the bottom edge and crease it .\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fold the top edges, so they are aligned with the middle.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fold the little tab in the middle up, making a lock.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fold it in half lengthwise.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fold wings.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Finish!\", \"描述\": \"For a good flight, throw it up as hard as you can.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,582 |
How to Build a Supercomputer
|
1. Steps
1-1. First determine the hardware components and resources needed.
You will need one head node, at least a dozen identical compute nodes, an Ethernet switch, a power distribution unit, and a rack. Determine the electrical demand, cooling and space required. Also decide on what IP address you want for your private networks, what to name the nodes, what software packages you want installed, and what technology you want to provide the parallel computing capabilities (more on this later).
Though the hardware is expensive, all software listed in this how-to is free, and most are open source.
If you would like to see how fast your supercomputer would theoretically be, use this tool: http://hpl-calculator.sourceforge.net/
1-2. Build the compute nodes.
You will need to assemble the compute nodes or acquire pre-build servers.
Choose a computer server chassis that maximizes space, cooling, and energy efficiency.
Or you can utilize a dozen or so used, outdated servers - whose whole will outweigh the sum of their parts yet save you a sizable lump of cash. All processors, network adapters, and motherboards should be identical for the whole system to play together nicely. Of course, don't forget about RAM and storage for each node and at least one optical drive for the head node.
1-3. Install the servers into the rack.
Start from the bottom, so the rack isn't top heavy. You will need a friend to help you with this - the dense servers can be very heavy and guiding them into the rails that hold them into the rack is difficult.
1-4. Install the Ethernet switch above the server chassis.
Take this moment to configure the switch: allow for jumbo frame sizes of 9000 bytes, set the IP address to the static address you decided on in step 1, and turn off unnecessary routing protocols such as SMTP Snooping.
1-5. Install the PDU (Power Distribution Unit).
Depending on how much current your nodes may need at maximum load, you may need 220 volts for high performance computing.
1-6. With everything installed, you can begin the configuration process.
Linux is the de facto OS for HPC clusters–not only is it the ideal environment for scientific computing, but it doesn't cost a thing to install it on hundreds or even thousands of nodes. Imagine how much it would cost to install Windows on all those nodes!
Begin with installing the latest version of the motherboard BIOS and firmware, which should be the same on all nodes.
Install your preferred linux distro on each node, with a graphical UI for the head node. Popular choices include CentOS, OpenSuse, Scientific Linux, RedHat, and SLES.
This author highly recommends using the Rocks Cluster Distribution. In addition to installing all the tools necessary for a compute cluster to function, Rocks uses a great method for 'distributing' many instances of itself to the nodes very quickly using PXE boot and the Red Hat 'Kick Start' procedure.
1-7. Install the message-passing interface, resource-manager, and other necessary libraries.
If you didn't install Rocks in the previous step, you will have to manually setup the necessary software to enable the parallel computing mechanisms.
First you will need a portable bash management system, such as the Torque Resource Manager, which allows you to break-up and distribute tasks to multiple machines.
Pair Torque with the Maui Cluster Scheduler to complete the setup.
Next you will need to install the message passing interface, necessary for the individual processes on the separate compute nodes to share the same data. OpenMP is a no-brainer.
Don't forget the multi-threading math libraries and compilers to build your parallel computing programs. Did I mention that you should just install Rocks?
1-8. Network the compute nodes together.
The head node sends the compute tasks to the compute nodes, which in turn must send the result back, as well as sending messages to each other. The faster the better.
Use a private ethernet network to connect all the nodes in the cluster.
The head node can also act as a NFS, PXE, DHCP, TFTP, and NTP server over the Ethernet network.
You must separate this network from public networks, which ensures that broadcast packets don't interfere with other networks in your LAN.
1-9. Test the cluster.
The last thing you may want to do before releasing all this compute power to your users is test it's performance. The HPL (High Performance Lynpack) benchmark is a popular choice for measuring the computational speed of the cluster. You will need to compile it from source with all possible optimizations your compiler offers for the architecture you chose.
You must, of course, compile from source with all possible optimization options for your platform. For example, if using AMD CPUs, compile with Open64 with -0fast optimization level.
Compare your results on TOP500.org to compare your cluster to the fastest 500 supercomputers in the world!
Tips
For really high network speeds, look into the InfiniBand network interfaces. Be prepared to pay premium prices though.
IPMI can make administration of a large cluster a breeze by providing KVM-over-IP, remote power cycling, and more.
Use Ganglia to monitor the computational loads on the nodes.
Warnings
Make sure your infrastructure can handle the load.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:10",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. First determine the hardware components and resources needed.\\nYou will need one head node, at least a dozen identical compute nodes, an Ethernet switch, a power distribution unit, and a rack. Determine the electrical demand, cooling and space required. Also decide on what IP address you want for your private networks, what to name the nodes, what software packages you want installed, and what technology you want to provide the parallel computing capabilities (more on this later).\\nThough the hardware is expensive, all software listed in this how-to is free, and most are open source.\\nIf you would like to see how fast your supercomputer would theoretically be, use this tool: http://hpl-calculator.sourceforge.net/\\n1-2. Build the compute nodes.\\nYou will need to assemble the compute nodes or acquire pre-build servers.\\nChoose a computer server chassis that maximizes space, cooling, and energy efficiency.\\nOr you can utilize a dozen or so used, outdated servers - whose whole will outweigh the sum of their parts yet save you a sizable lump of cash. All processors, network adapters, and motherboards should be identical for the whole system to play together nicely. Of course, don't forget about RAM and storage for each node and at least one optical drive for the head node.\\n1-3. Install the servers into the rack.\\nStart from the bottom, so the rack isn't top heavy. You will need a friend to help you with this - the dense servers can be very heavy and guiding them into the rails that hold them into the rack is difficult.\\n1-4. Install the Ethernet switch above the server chassis.\\nTake this moment to configure the switch: allow for jumbo frame sizes of 9000 bytes, set the IP address to the static address you decided on in step 1, and turn off unnecessary routing protocols such as SMTP Snooping.\\n1-5. Install the PDU (Power Distribution Unit).\\nDepending on how much current your nodes may need at maximum load, you may need 220 volts for high performance computing.\\n1-6. With everything installed, you can begin the configuration process.\\nLinux is the de facto OS for HPC clusters–not only is it the ideal environment for scientific computing, but it doesn't cost a thing to install it on hundreds or even thousands of nodes. Imagine how much it would cost to install Windows on all those nodes!\\nBegin with installing the latest version of the motherboard BIOS and firmware, which should be the same on all nodes.\\nInstall your preferred linux distro on each node, with a graphical UI for the head node. Popular choices include CentOS, OpenSuse, Scientific Linux, RedHat, and SLES.\\nThis author highly recommends using the Rocks Cluster Distribution. In addition to installing all the tools necessary for a compute cluster to function, Rocks uses a great method for 'distributing' many instances of itself to the nodes very quickly using PXE boot and the Red Hat 'Kick Start' procedure.\\n1-7. Install the message-passing interface, resource-manager, and other necessary libraries.\\nIf you didn't install Rocks in the previous step, you will have to manually setup the necessary software to enable the parallel computing mechanisms.\\nFirst you will need a portable bash management system, such as the Torque Resource Manager, which allows you to break-up and distribute tasks to multiple machines.\\nPair Torque with the Maui Cluster Scheduler to complete the setup.\\nNext you will need to install the message passing interface, necessary for the individual processes on the separate compute nodes to share the same data. OpenMP is a no-brainer.\\nDon't forget the multi-threading math libraries and compilers to build your parallel computing programs. Did I mention that you should just install Rocks?\\n1-8. Network the compute nodes together.\\nThe head node sends the compute tasks to the compute nodes, which in turn must send the result back, as well as sending messages to each other. The faster the better.\\nUse a private ethernet network to connect all the nodes in the cluster.\\nThe head node can also act as a NFS, PXE, DHCP, TFTP, and NTP server over the Ethernet network.\\nYou must separate this network from public networks, which ensures that broadcast packets don't interfere with other networks in your LAN.\\n1-9. Test the cluster.\\nThe last thing you may want to do before releasing all this compute power to your users is test it's performance. The HPL (High Performance Lynpack) benchmark is a popular choice for measuring the computational speed of the cluster. You will need to compile it from source with all possible optimizations your compiler offers for the architecture you chose.\\nYou must, of course, compile from source with all possible optimization options for your platform. For example, if using AMD CPUs, compile with Open64 with -0fast optimization level.\\nCompare your results on TOP500.org to compare your cluster to the fastest 500 supercomputers in the world!\\nTips\\nFor really high network speeds, look into the InfiniBand network interfaces. Be prepared to pay premium prices though.\\nIPMI can make administration of a large cluster a breeze by providing KVM-over-IP, remote power cycling, and more.\\nUse Ganglia to monitor the computational loads on the nodes.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure your infrastructure can handle the load.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Are you in need of a machine that can deliver hundreds of trillions of floating-point calculations per second? Or are you in need of a bar story about how the supercomputer in your basement flipped a breaker? Building your own High-Performance Compute cluster, a.k.a. supercomputer, is a challenge any expert geek with a weekend of free time and some cash to burn can tackle. Technically speaking, a modern, multi-processor supercomputer is a network of computers working together in parallel to solve a problem. This article will briefly describe each step in the process, focusing on hardware and software.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"First determine the hardware components and resources needed.\", \"描述\": \"You will need one head node, at least a dozen identical compute nodes, an Ethernet switch, a power distribution unit, and a rack. Determine the electrical demand, cooling and space required. Also decide on what IP address you want for your private networks, what to name the nodes, what software packages you want installed, and what technology you want to provide the parallel computing capabilities (more on this later).\\nThough the hardware is expensive, all software listed in this how-to is free, and most are open source.\\nIf you would like to see how fast your supercomputer would theoretically be, use this tool: http://hpl-calculator.sourceforge.net/\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the compute nodes.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to assemble the compute nodes or acquire pre-build servers.\\nChoose a computer server chassis that maximizes space, cooling, and energy efficiency.\\nOr you can utilize a dozen or so used, outdated servers - whose whole will outweigh the sum of their parts yet save you a sizable lump of cash. All processors, network adapters, and motherboards should be identical for the whole system to play together nicely. Of course, don't forget about RAM and storage for each node and at least one optical drive for the head node.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the servers into the rack.\", \"描述\": \"Start from the bottom, so the rack isn't top heavy. You will need a friend to help you with this - the dense servers can be very heavy and guiding them into the rails that hold them into the rack is difficult.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the Ethernet switch above the server chassis.\", \"描述\": \"Take this moment to configure the switch: allow for jumbo frame sizes of 9000 bytes, set the IP address to the static address you decided on in step 1, and turn off unnecessary routing protocols such as SMTP Snooping.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install the PDU (Power Distribution Unit).\", \"描述\": \"Depending on how much current your nodes may need at maximum load, you may need 220 volts for high performance computing.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"With everything installed, you can begin the configuration process.\", \"描述\": \"Linux is the de facto OS for HPC clusters–not only is it the ideal environment for scientific computing, but it doesn't cost a thing to install it on hundreds or even thousands of nodes. Imagine how much it would cost to install Windows on all those nodes!\\nBegin with installing the latest version of the motherboard BIOS and firmware, which should be the same on all nodes.\\nInstall your preferred linux distro on each node, with a graphical UI for the head node. Popular choices include CentOS, OpenSuse, Scientific Linux, RedHat, and SLES.\\nThis author highly recommends using the Rocks Cluster Distribution. In addition to installing all the tools necessary for a compute cluster to function, Rocks uses a great method for 'distributing' many instances of itself to the nodes very quickly using PXE boot and the Red Hat 'Kick Start' procedure.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install the message-passing interface, resource-manager, and other necessary libraries.\", \"描述\": \"If you didn't install Rocks in the previous step, you will have to manually setup the necessary software to enable the parallel computing mechanisms.\\nFirst you will need a portable bash management system, such as the Torque Resource Manager, which allows you to break-up and distribute tasks to multiple machines.\\nPair Torque with the Maui Cluster Scheduler to complete the setup.\\nNext you will need to install the message passing interface, necessary for the individual processes on the separate compute nodes to share the same data. OpenMP is a no-brainer.\\nDon't forget the multi-threading math libraries and compilers to build your parallel computing programs. Did I mention that you should just install Rocks?\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Network the compute nodes together.\", \"描述\": \"The head node sends the compute tasks to the compute nodes, which in turn must send the result back, as well as sending messages to each other. The faster the better.\\nUse a private ethernet network to connect all the nodes in the cluster.\\nThe head node can also act as a NFS, PXE, DHCP, TFTP, and NTP server over the Ethernet network.\\nYou must separate this network from public networks, which ensures that broadcast packets don't interfere with other networks in your LAN.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Test the cluster.\", \"描述\": \"The last thing you may want to do before releasing all this compute power to your users is test it's performance. The HPL (High Performance Lynpack) benchmark is a popular choice for measuring the computational speed of the cluster. You will need to compile it from source with all possible optimizations your compiler offers for the architecture you chose.\\nYou must, of course, compile from source with all possible optimization options for your platform. For example, if using AMD CPUs, compile with Open64 with -0fast optimization level.\\nCompare your results on TOP500.org to compare your cluster to the fastest 500 supercomputers in the world!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"For really high network speeds, look into the InfiniBand network interfaces. Be prepared to pay premium prices though.\\n\", \"IPMI can make administration of a large cluster a breeze by providing KVM-over-IP, remote power cycling, and more.\\n\", \"Use Ganglia to monitor the computational loads on the nodes.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure your infrastructure can handle the load.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,583 |
How to Build a Survival Shelter
|
1. Building a Shelter Out of Tree Branches
1-1. Look around in your immediate area for the best spot to build a shelter.
If you’re in the woods, find a decently flat area with a tree that splits its trunk about 3 to 5 feet (0.91 to 1.52 m) off the ground. Or, if you’re in a coniferous area with trees that don't typically split their trunks, stick a sturdy "Y" shaped branch into the ground to simulate a tree with a split trunk.
Ideally, try to find 2 trees with low split trunks that are within 10 feet (3.0 m) of each other. If you can’t find this type of set-up, just look for 1 tree in a flat area.
Build your shelter near a strong, stable face of rock if you can. This can reduce your wind exposure as well as reflect the warmth of a fire back into your shelter.
Be sure to build on the flattest ground you can find, avoiding the tops of hills, bottoms of valleys, and any other low points or flood zones where colder air will settle.
1-2. Find a thick, straight tree branch that’s about 10 feet (3.0 m) long.
Make sure the branch is 3 to 6 inches (7.6 to 15.2 cm) thick; otherwise, it probably won’t be sturdy enough to support your shelter. The straighter the branch, the better.
If you have a serrated survival knife that doubles as a wood saw, you can also saw down any 10 ft (3.0 m) branch that you find to make it straight enough for your shelter.
1-3. Place 1 end of this branch in the “V” of a tree.
The “V” is the part of the tree where the trunk first splits as it moves upward. Place the end of the branch in a “V” that’s about 3 to 5 feet (0.91 to 1.52 m) off the ground. If there isn’t a tree with this low of a split trunk near you, you can also prop a long stick that ends in a “V” against a tree, then place the end of the branch in this “V.”
If you have rope with you or you have access to nearby vines, tie the branch to the tree to make it more secure.
You can also use this tying material to the branch to the side of a tree if there isn’t a tree with a split trunk nearby. However, make sure you use a very strong tying material if you do this.
1-4. Lay the second end of the branch against another tree or on the ground.
Place this end of the branch in the “V” of a nearby tree to make a horizontal frame for your shelter. If you leave the end of the branch on the ground, your shelter will have an A-frame, which will make it slightly smaller.
1-5. Lean several long, thick branches against this main branch.
Use relatively thin branches, about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) in diameter. Lean these branches along both sides of the branch at about a 45- to 50-degree angle so that they make “ribs” for your shelter. Avoid placing the branches at a smaller angle than 45 degrees, since this would make your shelter too big.
A small shelter will do a better job of keeping you warm than a large shelter. Yours should be small enough for you to lean on your side while you’re lying down.
Place smaller sticks along the sides of your main branch as well to fill in the space between the thicker “ribs.” These smaller sticks should be less than or equal to 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter.
1-6. Place insulation over these branches to protect you from the elements.
Use a tarp if you have one, but you can also use dead leaves, moss, and other forest debris as your insulation. Put some more small branches over this insulation to help keep it in place.
Other things you can use as insulation include thin twigs, leaves, brush, or even mud. Use these types of materials in whatever combination is available to you.
Add all of this to the frame of the shelter in order of decreasing size until you can't find any holes you can fit your fist through. Add as many layers of insulation as time will allow. This will increase heat retention and weather resistance.
1-7. Lay additional insulation on the ground to use as a bed.
Gather extra dead leaves, pine boughs or whatever other insulation materials you may have left over and spread them over the floor of your shelter. This will help stop the cold ground from sucking all of your precious body heat away.
In a pinch, you can even use a pile of branches as a bed. Although this probably won’t be very comfortable, it will do a better job of keeping you warm than the ground will.
1-8. Test your shelter’s stability by gently pushing down on the branches.
Do this very carefully! You want to check the structure's safety by finding a spot where it feels like it might start to give way, but you don't want to actually put enough pressure for it to collapse. Reinforce any weak spots with a couple of sticks tied together into a “Y” shape and propped up against the weak spot.
2. Making a Snow Shelter
2-1. Build a pile of snow about 7 to 8 feet (2.1 to 2.4 m) high.
Pile the snow in a rounded shape to make your eventual shelter less likely to collapse. Poke several 2 ft (0.61 m) long sticks through the top of the dome once you finish. These will serve as guide sticks when you eventually hollow out the inside.
If possible, mix snow of different temperatures (i.e., frozen snow with partially melted snow) to give your shelter a harder surface.
2-2. Poke several “guide sticks” through the top and sides of the mound.
You’ll use these sticks to keep the sides of your shelter equally thick when you go to hollow out the inside of the mound. Use sticks that are each 2 feet (0.61 m) long to give the sides of your shelter the optimal thickness.
Poke these sticks throughout the entire outside of your mound, keeping them about 1 to 2 feet (0.30 to 0.61 m) apart from each other.
2-3. Give the snow about an hour to freeze, if you can.
The snow will have partially melted when you piled it. If you give it time to freeze, your shelter will be much sturdier. If your situation is more urgent, try to allow at least 15 minutes for the snow to partially freeze.
If your situation isn’t urgent, allowing your snow up to 90 minutes to freeze will make your shelter even stronger.
2-4. Dig a small entrance to your mound on the downhill side.
Use a snow shovel to simply dig a small hole in the side of the mound that you’ll eventually use to enter and exit your shelter. Placing this entrance on the downhill side of the mound will make it less likely for the entrance to be sealed if more snow is piled in front of it (such as in an avalanche or a snowstorm).
2-5. Hollow out the center of the mound to create a small enclosure.
Starting from your entrance hole, continue digging into the center of the mound and begin hollowing out the inside by removing snow in each direction. Stop removing snow in a particular direction once you run into the 2 ft (0.61 m) guide stick you poked through the top of the mound earlier.
This will ensure that the walls of your shelter are 2 feet (0.61 m) thick, which is the ideal thickness for it.
If you didn’t use these guide sticks before, avoid making your walls so thin that they’re translucent. If you can see sunlight shining through, they’re too thin.
2-6. Make a fist-sized hole in the mound’s ceiling to provide ventilation.
Use a thin trowel or ice pick, if you have one, to create this hole without making it too wide. Try to place this hole in the center of the ceiling to best maintain the integrity of the structure.
3. Creating a Shelter in a Sunny Climate
3-1. Look for dry shrubbery or branches you can use to build a shelter.
Look for branches that are about 4 to 5 feet (1.2 to 1.5 m) tall, as this will make your shelter relatively tall but still easy to build. If you’re in an area with sparse vegetation, like a desert, you may need to resort to using shrubs and branches that are only 2 to 3 feet (0.61 to 0.91 m) tall.
Whatever branches you use, make sure they’re about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) thick to make it less likely for them to snap.
Don’t use branches that are shorter than 1.5 feet (0.46 m). This will make your shelter too short to be effective.
3-2. Drive 4 branches into the ground in a square formation to serve as posts.
Use your hands or a rock to drive them into the ground if you don’t have a better tool on hand. If you can’t drive the branches into the ground with your hands or a rock, dig a hole about 1 foot (0.30 m) deep, place the branch vertically in the hole, and replace the soil that you dug out. Place these branches about 5 feet (1.5 m) apart from each other.
You can also use 3 branches to make a triangle formation, if you’re in an area with sparse vegetation and can’t find 4 branches.
Be careful if you try to hammer the branches into the ground with a rock. You don’t want to inadvertently break them.
3-3. Tie lightweight branches in between these branches, if possible.
Use parachute cord, if you brought some with you, to tie a thin 5 ft (1.5 m) branch in between each pair of vertical branches. This will add stability to your shelter and make it less likely for your roof to fall down.
If you don’t have any tying material with you, you can also use vines or long, thick blades of grass as cordage.
Avoid using branches that are thicker than about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Anything bigger than this will probably be too heavy.
3-4. Lay your tarp across the top of this structure.
Place some thin, flat rocks on the corners of the tarp to keep it from being blown away or falling off of your shelter. If you don’t have a tarp, you can also use any long pieces of foliage to block out the sun.
Tips
Although you should spend some time looking for a good spot to build your shelter, you should also avoid wandering too far, since the best way to be found soon is to stay where you are.
You should also remember that building the shelter will probably take longer than you originally anticipate. Start building it as soon as possible to reduce your risk of being caught in the dark without a shelter.
If you go camping often, spend a few camping trips practicing making and sleeping in a survival shelter. Start early in the day, and spend all the time you need on your first few shelters. Treat these trips as opportunities to practice your shelter-building skills.
Warnings
Don’t be ignorant of your surroundings! You should always know and account for the specific dangers of the area you are in (such as large or venomous animals).
Your shelter can collapse during the night if you don't build it carefully and test it for sturdiness. In some cases, even snow build-up can cause a potentially dangerous collapse.
Always let other people know when you’re heading out on a camping trip, where you’re going, and what time they should expect you back. This is extremely important if you will be somewhere that has poor cell phone coverage.
Avoid camping by yourself whenever possible. Aim to have at least one other person with you. It is also a very good idea to make sure at least one of you has a cell phone with ample battery power and reception.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:10",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Shelter Out of Tree Branches\\n1-1. Look around in your immediate area for the best spot to build a shelter.\\nIf you’re in the woods, find a decently flat area with a tree that splits its trunk about 3 to 5 feet (0.91 to 1.52 m) off the ground. Or, if you’re in a coniferous area with trees that don't typically split their trunks, stick a sturdy \\\"Y\\\" shaped branch into the ground to simulate a tree with a split trunk.\\nIdeally, try to find 2 trees with low split trunks that are within 10 feet (3.0 m) of each other. If you can’t find this type of set-up, just look for 1 tree in a flat area.\\nBuild your shelter near a strong, stable face of rock if you can. This can reduce your wind exposure as well as reflect the warmth of a fire back into your shelter.\\nBe sure to build on the flattest ground you can find, avoiding the tops of hills, bottoms of valleys, and any other low points or flood zones where colder air will settle.\\n1-2. Find a thick, straight tree branch that’s about 10 feet (3.0 m) long.\\nMake sure the branch is 3 to 6 inches (7.6 to 15.2 cm) thick; otherwise, it probably won’t be sturdy enough to support your shelter. The straighter the branch, the better.\\nIf you have a serrated survival knife that doubles as a wood saw, you can also saw down any 10 ft (3.0 m) branch that you find to make it straight enough for your shelter.\\n1-3. Place 1 end of this branch in the “V” of a tree.\\nThe “V” is the part of the tree where the trunk first splits as it moves upward. Place the end of the branch in a “V” that’s about 3 to 5 feet (0.91 to 1.52 m) off the ground. If there isn’t a tree with this low of a split trunk near you, you can also prop a long stick that ends in a “V” against a tree, then place the end of the branch in this “V.”\\nIf you have rope with you or you have access to nearby vines, tie the branch to the tree to make it more secure.\\nYou can also use this tying material to the branch to the side of a tree if there isn’t a tree with a split trunk nearby. However, make sure you use a very strong tying material if you do this.\\n1-4. Lay the second end of the branch against another tree or on the ground.\\nPlace this end of the branch in the “V” of a nearby tree to make a horizontal frame for your shelter. If you leave the end of the branch on the ground, your shelter will have an A-frame, which will make it slightly smaller.\\n1-5. Lean several long, thick branches against this main branch.\\nUse relatively thin branches, about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) in diameter. Lean these branches along both sides of the branch at about a 45- to 50-degree angle so that they make “ribs” for your shelter. Avoid placing the branches at a smaller angle than 45 degrees, since this would make your shelter too big.\\nA small shelter will do a better job of keeping you warm than a large shelter. Yours should be small enough for you to lean on your side while you’re lying down.\\nPlace smaller sticks along the sides of your main branch as well to fill in the space between the thicker “ribs.” These smaller sticks should be less than or equal to 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter.\\n1-6. Place insulation over these branches to protect you from the elements.\\nUse a tarp if you have one, but you can also use dead leaves, moss, and other forest debris as your insulation. Put some more small branches over this insulation to help keep it in place.\\nOther things you can use as insulation include thin twigs, leaves, brush, or even mud. Use these types of materials in whatever combination is available to you.\\nAdd all of this to the frame of the shelter in order of decreasing size until you can't find any holes you can fit your fist through. Add as many layers of insulation as time will allow. This will increase heat retention and weather resistance.\\n1-7. Lay additional insulation on the ground to use as a bed.\\nGather extra dead leaves, pine boughs or whatever other insulation materials you may have left over and spread them over the floor of your shelter. This will help stop the cold ground from sucking all of your precious body heat away.\\nIn a pinch, you can even use a pile of branches as a bed. Although this probably won’t be very comfortable, it will do a better job of keeping you warm than the ground will.\\n1-8. Test your shelter’s stability by gently pushing down on the branches.\\nDo this very carefully! You want to check the structure's safety by finding a spot where it feels like it might start to give way, but you don't want to actually put enough pressure for it to collapse. Reinforce any weak spots with a couple of sticks tied together into a “Y” shape and propped up against the weak spot.\\n2. Making a Snow Shelter\\n2-1. Build a pile of snow about 7 to 8 feet (2.1 to 2.4 m) high.\\nPile the snow in a rounded shape to make your eventual shelter less likely to collapse. Poke several 2 ft (0.61 m) long sticks through the top of the dome once you finish. These will serve as guide sticks when you eventually hollow out the inside.\\nIf possible, mix snow of different temperatures (i.e., frozen snow with partially melted snow) to give your shelter a harder surface.\\n2-2. Poke several “guide sticks” through the top and sides of the mound.\\nYou’ll use these sticks to keep the sides of your shelter equally thick when you go to hollow out the inside of the mound. Use sticks that are each 2 feet (0.61 m) long to give the sides of your shelter the optimal thickness.\\nPoke these sticks throughout the entire outside of your mound, keeping them about 1 to 2 feet (0.30 to 0.61 m) apart from each other.\\n2-3. Give the snow about an hour to freeze, if you can.\\nThe snow will have partially melted when you piled it. If you give it time to freeze, your shelter will be much sturdier. If your situation is more urgent, try to allow at least 15 minutes for the snow to partially freeze.\\nIf your situation isn’t urgent, allowing your snow up to 90 minutes to freeze will make your shelter even stronger.\\n2-4. Dig a small entrance to your mound on the downhill side.\\nUse a snow shovel to simply dig a small hole in the side of the mound that you’ll eventually use to enter and exit your shelter. Placing this entrance on the downhill side of the mound will make it less likely for the entrance to be sealed if more snow is piled in front of it (such as in an avalanche or a snowstorm).\\n2-5. Hollow out the center of the mound to create a small enclosure.\\nStarting from your entrance hole, continue digging into the center of the mound and begin hollowing out the inside by removing snow in each direction. Stop removing snow in a particular direction once you run into the 2 ft (0.61 m) guide stick you poked through the top of the mound earlier.\\nThis will ensure that the walls of your shelter are 2 feet (0.61 m) thick, which is the ideal thickness for it.\\nIf you didn’t use these guide sticks before, avoid making your walls so thin that they’re translucent. If you can see sunlight shining through, they’re too thin.\\n2-6. Make a fist-sized hole in the mound’s ceiling to provide ventilation.\\nUse a thin trowel or ice pick, if you have one, to create this hole without making it too wide. Try to place this hole in the center of the ceiling to best maintain the integrity of the structure.\\n3. Creating a Shelter in a Sunny Climate\\n3-1. Look for dry shrubbery or branches you can use to build a shelter.\\nLook for branches that are about 4 to 5 feet (1.2 to 1.5 m) tall, as this will make your shelter relatively tall but still easy to build. If you’re in an area with sparse vegetation, like a desert, you may need to resort to using shrubs and branches that are only 2 to 3 feet (0.61 to 0.91 m) tall.\\nWhatever branches you use, make sure they’re about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) thick to make it less likely for them to snap.\\nDon’t use branches that are shorter than 1.5 feet (0.46 m). This will make your shelter too short to be effective.\\n3-2. Drive 4 branches into the ground in a square formation to serve as posts.\\nUse your hands or a rock to drive them into the ground if you don’t have a better tool on hand. If you can’t drive the branches into the ground with your hands or a rock, dig a hole about 1 foot (0.30 m) deep, place the branch vertically in the hole, and replace the soil that you dug out. Place these branches about 5 feet (1.5 m) apart from each other.\\nYou can also use 3 branches to make a triangle formation, if you’re in an area with sparse vegetation and can’t find 4 branches.\\nBe careful if you try to hammer the branches into the ground with a rock. You don’t want to inadvertently break them.\\n3-3. Tie lightweight branches in between these branches, if possible.\\nUse parachute cord, if you brought some with you, to tie a thin 5 ft (1.5 m) branch in between each pair of vertical branches. This will add stability to your shelter and make it less likely for your roof to fall down.\\nIf you don’t have any tying material with you, you can also use vines or long, thick blades of grass as cordage.\\nAvoid using branches that are thicker than about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Anything bigger than this will probably be too heavy.\\n3-4. Lay your tarp across the top of this structure.\\nPlace some thin, flat rocks on the corners of the tarp to keep it from being blown away or falling off of your shelter. If you don’t have a tarp, you can also use any long pieces of foliage to block out the sun.\\nTips\\nAlthough you should spend some time looking for a good spot to build your shelter, you should also avoid wandering too far, since the best way to be found soon is to stay where you are.\\nYou should also remember that building the shelter will probably take longer than you originally anticipate. Start building it as soon as possible to reduce your risk of being caught in the dark without a shelter.\\nIf you go camping often, spend a few camping trips practicing making and sleeping in a survival shelter. Start early in the day, and spend all the time you need on your first few shelters. Treat these trips as opportunities to practice your shelter-building skills.\\nWarnings\\nDon’t be ignorant of your surroundings! You should always know and account for the specific dangers of the area you are in (such as large or venomous animals).\\nYour shelter can collapse during the night if you don't build it carefully and test it for sturdiness. In some cases, even snow build-up can cause a potentially dangerous collapse.\\nAlways let other people know when you’re heading out on a camping trip, where you’re going, and what time they should expect you back. This is extremely important if you will be somewhere that has poor cell phone coverage.\\nAvoid camping by yourself whenever possible. Aim to have at least one other person with you. It is also a very good idea to make sure at least one of you has a cell phone with ample battery power and reception.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you like to spend time in the great outdoors, it may be helpful for you to know how to build a survival shelter. This kind of shelter helps protect people who are stranded in the wilderness from the elements until they can be rescued. Fortunately, whether you’re in the woods, in snow, or even in a desert, building a survival shelter out of natural materials is a relatively straightforward process.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Shelter Out of Tree Branches\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look around in your immediate area for the best spot to build a shelter.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re in the woods, find a decently flat area with a tree that splits its trunk about 3 to 5 feet (0.91 to 1.52 m) off the ground. Or, if you’re in a coniferous area with trees that don't typically split their trunks, stick a sturdy \\\"Y\\\" shaped branch into the ground to simulate a tree with a split trunk.\\nIdeally, try to find 2 trees with low split trunks that are within 10 feet (3.0 m) of each other. If you can’t find this type of set-up, just look for 1 tree in a flat area.\\nBuild your shelter near a strong, stable face of rock if you can. This can reduce your wind exposure as well as reflect the warmth of a fire back into your shelter.\\nBe sure to build on the flattest ground you can find, avoiding the tops of hills, bottoms of valleys, and any other low points or flood zones where colder air will settle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a thick, straight tree branch that’s about 10 feet (3.0 m) long.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the branch is 3 to 6 inches (7.6 to 15.2 cm) thick; otherwise, it probably won’t be sturdy enough to support your shelter. The straighter the branch, the better.\\nIf you have a serrated survival knife that doubles as a wood saw, you can also saw down any 10 ft (3.0 m) branch that you find to make it straight enough for your shelter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place 1 end of this branch in the “V” of a tree.\", \"描述\": \"The “V” is the part of the tree where the trunk first splits as it moves upward. Place the end of the branch in a “V” that’s about 3 to 5 feet (0.91 to 1.52 m) off the ground. If there isn’t a tree with this low of a split trunk near you, you can also prop a long stick that ends in a “V” against a tree, then place the end of the branch in this “V.”\\nIf you have rope with you or you have access to nearby vines, tie the branch to the tree to make it more secure.\\nYou can also use this tying material to the branch to the side of a tree if there isn’t a tree with a split trunk nearby. However, make sure you use a very strong tying material if you do this.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay the second end of the branch against another tree or on the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Place this end of the branch in the “V” of a nearby tree to make a horizontal frame for your shelter. If you leave the end of the branch on the ground, your shelter will have an A-frame, which will make it slightly smaller.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lean several long, thick branches against this main branch.\", \"描述\": \"Use relatively thin branches, about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) in diameter. Lean these branches along both sides of the branch at about a 45- to 50-degree angle so that they make “ribs” for your shelter. Avoid placing the branches at a smaller angle than 45 degrees, since this would make your shelter too big.\\nA small shelter will do a better job of keeping you warm than a large shelter. Yours should be small enough for you to lean on your side while you’re lying down.\\nPlace smaller sticks along the sides of your main branch as well to fill in the space between the thicker “ribs.” These smaller sticks should be less than or equal to 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place insulation over these branches to protect you from the elements.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tarp if you have one, but you can also use dead leaves, moss, and other forest debris as your insulation. Put some more small branches over this insulation to help keep it in place.\\nOther things you can use as insulation include thin twigs, leaves, brush, or even mud. Use these types of materials in whatever combination is available to you.\\nAdd all of this to the frame of the shelter in order of decreasing size until you can't find any holes you can fit your fist through. Add as many layers of insulation as time will allow. This will increase heat retention and weather resistance.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Lay additional insulation on the ground to use as a bed.\", \"描述\": \"Gather extra dead leaves, pine boughs or whatever other insulation materials you may have left over and spread them over the floor of your shelter. This will help stop the cold ground from sucking all of your precious body heat away.\\nIn a pinch, you can even use a pile of branches as a bed. Although this probably won’t be very comfortable, it will do a better job of keeping you warm than the ground will.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Test your shelter’s stability by gently pushing down on the branches.\", \"描述\": \"Do this very carefully! You want to check the structure's safety by finding a spot where it feels like it might start to give way, but you don't want to actually put enough pressure for it to collapse. Reinforce any weak spots with a couple of sticks tied together into a “Y” shape and propped up against the weak spot.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Snow Shelter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a pile of snow about 7 to 8 feet (2.1 to 2.4 m) high.\", \"描述\": \"Pile the snow in a rounded shape to make your eventual shelter less likely to collapse. Poke several 2 ft (0.61 m) long sticks through the top of the dome once you finish. These will serve as guide sticks when you eventually hollow out the inside.\\nIf possible, mix snow of different temperatures (i.e., frozen snow with partially melted snow) to give your shelter a harder surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Poke several “guide sticks” through the top and sides of the mound.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll use these sticks to keep the sides of your shelter equally thick when you go to hollow out the inside of the mound. Use sticks that are each 2 feet (0.61 m) long to give the sides of your shelter the optimal thickness.\\nPoke these sticks throughout the entire outside of your mound, keeping them about 1 to 2 feet (0.30 to 0.61 m) apart from each other.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Give the snow about an hour to freeze, if you can.\", \"描述\": \"The snow will have partially melted when you piled it. If you give it time to freeze, your shelter will be much sturdier. If your situation is more urgent, try to allow at least 15 minutes for the snow to partially freeze.\\nIf your situation isn’t urgent, allowing your snow up to 90 minutes to freeze will make your shelter even stronger.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig a small entrance to your mound on the downhill side.\", \"描述\": \"Use a snow shovel to simply dig a small hole in the side of the mound that you’ll eventually use to enter and exit your shelter. Placing this entrance on the downhill side of the mound will make it less likely for the entrance to be sealed if more snow is piled in front of it (such as in an avalanche or a snowstorm).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Hollow out the center of the mound to create a small enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"Starting from your entrance hole, continue digging into the center of the mound and begin hollowing out the inside by removing snow in each direction. Stop removing snow in a particular direction once you run into the 2 ft (0.61 m) guide stick you poked through the top of the mound earlier.\\nThis will ensure that the walls of your shelter are 2 feet (0.61 m) thick, which is the ideal thickness for it.\\nIf you didn’t use these guide sticks before, avoid making your walls so thin that they’re translucent. If you can see sunlight shining through, they’re too thin.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make a fist-sized hole in the mound’s ceiling to provide ventilation.\", \"描述\": \"Use a thin trowel or ice pick, if you have one, to create this hole without making it too wide. Try to place this hole in the center of the ceiling to best maintain the integrity of the structure.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Creating a Shelter in a Sunny Climate\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look for dry shrubbery or branches you can use to build a shelter.\", \"描述\": \"Look for branches that are about 4 to 5 feet (1.2 to 1.5 m) tall, as this will make your shelter relatively tall but still easy to build. If you’re in an area with sparse vegetation, like a desert, you may need to resort to using shrubs and branches that are only 2 to 3 feet (0.61 to 0.91 m) tall.\\nWhatever branches you use, make sure they’re about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) thick to make it less likely for them to snap.\\nDon’t use branches that are shorter than 1.5 feet (0.46 m). This will make your shelter too short to be effective.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drive 4 branches into the ground in a square formation to serve as posts.\", \"描述\": \"Use your hands or a rock to drive them into the ground if you don’t have a better tool on hand. If you can’t drive the branches into the ground with your hands or a rock, dig a hole about 1 foot (0.30 m) deep, place the branch vertically in the hole, and replace the soil that you dug out. Place these branches about 5 feet (1.5 m) apart from each other.\\nYou can also use 3 branches to make a triangle formation, if you’re in an area with sparse vegetation and can’t find 4 branches.\\nBe careful if you try to hammer the branches into the ground with a rock. You don’t want to inadvertently break them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tie lightweight branches in between these branches, if possible.\", \"描述\": \"Use parachute cord, if you brought some with you, to tie a thin 5 ft (1.5 m) branch in between each pair of vertical branches. This will add stability to your shelter and make it less likely for your roof to fall down.\\nIf you don’t have any tying material with you, you can also use vines or long, thick blades of grass as cordage.\\nAvoid using branches that are thicker than about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Anything bigger than this will probably be too heavy.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay your tarp across the top of this structure.\", \"描述\": \"Place some thin, flat rocks on the corners of the tarp to keep it from being blown away or falling off of your shelter. If you don’t have a tarp, you can also use any long pieces of foliage to block out the sun.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Although you should spend some time looking for a good spot to build your shelter, you should also avoid wandering too far, since the best way to be found soon is to stay where you are.\\n\", \"You should also remember that building the shelter will probably take longer than you originally anticipate. Start building it as soon as possible to reduce your risk of being caught in the dark without a shelter.\\n\", \"If you go camping often, spend a few camping trips practicing making and sleeping in a survival shelter. Start early in the day, and spend all the time you need on your first few shelters. Treat these trips as opportunities to practice your shelter-building skills.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don’t be ignorant of your surroundings! You should always know and account for the specific dangers of the area you are in (such as large or venomous animals).\\n\", \"Your shelter can collapse during the night if you don't build it carefully and test it for sturdiness. In some cases, even snow build-up can cause a potentially dangerous collapse.\\n\", \"Always let other people know when you’re heading out on a camping trip, where you’re going, and what time they should expect you back. This is extremely important if you will be somewhere that has poor cell phone coverage.\\n\", \"Avoid camping by yourself whenever possible. Aim to have at least one other person with you. It is also a very good idea to make sure at least one of you has a cell phone with ample battery power and reception.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,584 |
How to Build a Swimming Pool
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1. Planning Your Pool
1-1. Obtain the necessary building permits.
Your city will likely require you to have a residential building permit in order to put a swimming pool on your property. You can usually apply for a residential building permit on the website of your local Department of Building and Safety.
In addition to granting you permission to construct a swimming pool, the residential building permit will outline the exact requirements and specifications of your new pool.
There may be state or local guidelines that you have to follow for your pool, like how far it has to be from your property line.
Don’t forget to also check your neighborhood’s homeowners association guidelines before moving forward with the installation—not all neighborhoods allow pools.
Some municipalities may also expect you to have a separate electrical permit. However, the electrician you contract to take care of your pool’s inground wiring can often apply for an electrical permit on your behalf.
1-2. Pick out a suitable site for the pool.
Designate a part of your property that would work best for your new pool. Swimming pools are typically found in the backyards of most homes, though you could also situate yours to one side if you have enough space to play with.
Think carefully about where your pool will go. Installing a swimming pool in certain areas may require you to add or remove other outdoor features like trees or sections of fencing, which will drive up the cost of the project.
You may have a limited number of options in regards to your pool’s overall dimensions, depending on where you decide to put it.
You'll also need to make sure that the excavation equipment has access to the area where you want to dig your pool.
1-3. Come up with a basic design for your pool.
Think about how you want your new pool to look. Would you prefer a round, square, or rectangular shape? How deep will it be? How many entrances and exits will it have? These are all important details that you'll need to discuss with your contractor before the project gets underway.
Most home swimming pools come in standardized sizes like 10 feet (3.0 m) x 20 feet (6.1 m), 15 feet (4.6 m) x 30 feet (9.1 m), and 20 feet (6.1 m) x 40 feet (12 m), and may be anywhere from 4–15 feet (1.2–4.6 m) deep.
Keep in mind that the more complex your pool design is, the higher the total cost will be.
1-4. Create the foundation of your pool with concrete to ensure that it's built to last.
Most residential swimming pools are finished using 1 of 3 surfacing materials: poured concrete, fiberglass, or vinyl. Concrete is the strongest and most durable, but also the most expensive. It tends to be the best choice for large pools that are intended as a permanent addition to a home's exterior.
If you expect your pool to receive heavy use, investing in a long-lasting material like concrete can cut down on the cost of repairs in the long run.
A well-maintained concrete swimming pool can also add to the resale value of your home, in some cases.
1-5. Purchase a molded fiberglass pool for ease of installation.
Fiberglass pools are most often sold as one-piece premade forms. This make them a breeze to put in, as all the building crew has to do after excavating your site is lower them into place and backfill around them. Fiberglass also offers the best balance of durability and affordability.
For saltwater pools, you’ll want to go with fiberglass or vinyl lining, as salt can wear down concrete over time.
1-6. Go with a vinyl-lined pool if you want to spend less.
Vinyl swimming pool liners are essentially large, smooth sheets that are shaped to fit the contours of the completed pool. They're by far the most economical option for finishing a home swimming pool. The major downside is that they wear out much faster than both fiberglass and concrete.
Another disadvantage of vinyl pool liners is that they have a tendency to bubble, wrinkle, and pull loose. This means they may need regular adjusting in order to keep their attractive appearance.
A vinyl-lined pool will only run you $25,000-50,000 on average, compared to poured concrete, which can cost upwards of $80,000-100,000.
1-7. Hire a pool contractor to bring your vision to life.
Run a search for pool contractor companies in your area and compare your options carefully. You'll want to select a professional who holds a valid contractor's license signifying that they're qualified to install swimming pools. Experience building pools for at least several years is also a plus.
Read reviews from homeowners who have used the contractor in the past to get a sense of what kind of work they do.
The contractor you hire to put in your pool will charge a separate rate for labor, so don't forget to factor their pay into your initial budget.
2. Creating the Basic Structure
2-1. Excavate the area.
Once you’ve hired a certified pool contractor, they’ll begin by marking off and digging up the ground on the site you’ve selected. To do this, they may need to use a backhoe and other heavy machinery. Excavation is one of the most important parts of the building process, as proper installation of other the pool’s other components depends on it being done right.
The building crew make ask for your help making your property accessible to their equipment.
It’s critical that you have your residential building permit on file at this point. Otherwise, you run the risk of damaging or unearthing utility lines you didn't know about.
2-2. Grade the ground at the bottom of the hole.
Once the site has been excavated, the next step is to even out what will become the floor of the pool as much as possible. This will involve covering the bottom surface with a thick layer of washed gravel subsoil, which is then raked and compressed until it’s perfectly level.
There are a few different ways to grade a swimming pool. Some pools have flat bottoms, while others are built with sloping floors that establish a deep end and a shallow end. Be sure to tell your contractor which style you have in mind.
2-3. Frame the walls with steel supports.
With the ground dug up and the bottom surface graded, you’re now ready to begin forming the sides of the pool. The building crew will go around the circumference of the hole setting metal rebar and wooden boards. These materials are used to create shape and provide support.
Like the floor, it’s important that the walls of your new pool be flat, level, and in alignment with one another.
It may be necessary to hire a separate steel subcontractor to frame the walls of your pool if your building contractor isn’t licensed or equipped to do so.
2-4. Install all necessary plumbing fixtures.
At this point, you’ll need to bring in a licensed plumbing expert to set up the pool’s water circulation and filtration systems. This will include components like the drain, skimmers, 2- and 3-way valves, and the main pump that are responsible for filling, emptying, and moving water throughout the pool.
Be sure to hire someone with extensive experience working on pools—an inexperienced plumber could make a mess of your new pool before it’s even finished.
Note that plumbing systems may differ depending on the building codes where you live.
2-5. Wire the pool for electricity.
Before the pool is lined, an electrical contractor will need to run power to your in order to power the filtration system and any underwater lighting elements you wish to include. This is another time when it’s important to secure the services of a professional, as bad wiring and water can be a dangerous combination.
Ask your main building contractor for recommendations for trustworthy electricians that they’ve worked with in the past.
Swimming pool electrical safety is a major concern. Faulty wiring could increase swimmers’ risk of electrical shock.
3. Lining the Pool
3-1. Pour the walls and floor if you’re putting in a concrete pool.
With the plumbing and electrical fixtures in place, the building crew will use a concrete mixer to cover the steel forms set up along the interior of the pool. They’ll grade and smooth the concrete manually while it’s still wet.
For pools with varying depths, it will be necessary to check that the angle of slope is consistent from one end to the other.
The walls of concrete pools are typically finished with either cinder block or sprayed concrete. Your contractor might also install a plaster cap over the concrete so it has a nice finish.
Concrete needs time to cure—typically about 28 days—so talk to your contractor about how long you need to wait before you do any more work on your pool.
3-2. Have fiberglass pools set professionally.
Most fiberglass pools come in a single-piece construction. If you picked out a premade fiberglass pool for your yard, it will need to be put in place using a crane or similar piece of equipment. Afterwards, the building crew will fill in the space around the pool with dirt or concrete.
In some cases, fiberglass liners are installed by spraying the fiberglass material onto an existing frame rather than setting a premade pool in one piece.
3-3. Fit vinyl pools with a flexible liner.
Vinyl liners can only be installed after the concrete base has been poured and given 1-2 full days to dry. The installers will unroll the one-piece vinyl sheet and stretch it out to cover the entire inner surface of the pool. They’ll then attach it by securing the built-in liner tack around the outer edges and insert a vacuum nozzle to suction out the air between the liner and the walls of the pool.
Before installing the liner, the building crew will need to mark and cut out holes for the lights, skimmers, and any other fixtures on the pool’s interior.
Vinyl liners are often easy enough to put in yourself, although having the assistance of a professional will ensure that installation is carried out correctly and efficiently.
3-4. Fill up the pool.
With the construction complete, all that’s left to do is add water! Depending on how eager you are to take your first dip, you could run the water slowly using a hose connected to your home’s water supply, or rent a water truck to top it off in less time.
Filling a swimming pool with a single water hose can be an all day (maybe even all night) event. When you rent a water truck, the water will be dispensed into your pool via multiple hoses to fill it much faster.
While filling your new pool, check for leaks, plumbing malfunctions, or other complications. If you discover an issue, contact the building contractor to schedule repairs before you use the pool.
3-5. Treat your pool
Use a home water testing kit to find the pH of the water in your pool. Then, add chlorine and other chemicals like shock and algaecide as needed to bring it to the recommended levels for safe swimming. The ideal pH for the water in a swimming pool is 7.4-7.6, or just above neutral.
It usually takes about 10 days for the pH and chlorine levels in your pool to balance out.
You can pick up a water testing kit anywhere that sells pool supplies.
The exact amount of chlorine you'll need will depend on the volume of your pool. If you're unsure how much to add, contact a pool maintenance company for assistance.
If you're planning on having a salt water pool, you'll add the salt (along with the correct proportions of other chemicals) after the pool has been filled.
Tips
Take the time to research the various lining, plumbing, and filtration options you have available to you before finalizing the plans for your new pool.
Once your pool is finished, it will be up to you to see to the cleaning, chlorination, and general upkeep, unless you elect to hire a professional pool service.
Always keep your pool covered in the off-season when you’re not using it. This will both keep it clean and protect it from damage as a result of exposure to the elements.
Warnings
In some places, swimming pools and similar projects are considered taxable home additions. The exception to this is if the finished pool doesn’t increase your home’s property value.[35]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:10",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Pool\\n1-1. Obtain the necessary building permits.\\nYour city will likely require you to have a residential building permit in order to put a swimming pool on your property. You can usually apply for a residential building permit on the website of your local Department of Building and Safety.\\nIn addition to granting you permission to construct a swimming pool, the residential building permit will outline the exact requirements and specifications of your new pool.\\nThere may be state or local guidelines that you have to follow for your pool, like how far it has to be from your property line.\\nDon’t forget to also check your neighborhood’s homeowners association guidelines before moving forward with the installation—not all neighborhoods allow pools.\\nSome municipalities may also expect you to have a separate electrical permit. However, the electrician you contract to take care of your pool’s inground wiring can often apply for an electrical permit on your behalf.\\n1-2. Pick out a suitable site for the pool.\\nDesignate a part of your property that would work best for your new pool. Swimming pools are typically found in the backyards of most homes, though you could also situate yours to one side if you have enough space to play with.\\nThink carefully about where your pool will go. Installing a swimming pool in certain areas may require you to add or remove other outdoor features like trees or sections of fencing, which will drive up the cost of the project.\\nYou may have a limited number of options in regards to your pool’s overall dimensions, depending on where you decide to put it.\\nYou'll also need to make sure that the excavation equipment has access to the area where you want to dig your pool.\\n1-3. Come up with a basic design for your pool.\\nThink about how you want your new pool to look. Would you prefer a round, square, or rectangular shape? How deep will it be? How many entrances and exits will it have? These are all important details that you'll need to discuss with your contractor before the project gets underway.\\nMost home swimming pools come in standardized sizes like 10 feet (3.0 m) x 20 feet (6.1 m), 15 feet (4.6 m) x 30 feet (9.1 m), and 20 feet (6.1 m) x 40 feet (12 m), and may be anywhere from 4–15 feet (1.2–4.6 m) deep.\\nKeep in mind that the more complex your pool design is, the higher the total cost will be.\\n1-4. Create the foundation of your pool with concrete to ensure that it's built to last.\\nMost residential swimming pools are finished using 1 of 3 surfacing materials: poured concrete, fiberglass, or vinyl. Concrete is the strongest and most durable, but also the most expensive. It tends to be the best choice for large pools that are intended as a permanent addition to a home's exterior.\\nIf you expect your pool to receive heavy use, investing in a long-lasting material like concrete can cut down on the cost of repairs in the long run.\\nA well-maintained concrete swimming pool can also add to the resale value of your home, in some cases.\\n1-5. Purchase a molded fiberglass pool for ease of installation.\\nFiberglass pools are most often sold as one-piece premade forms. This make them a breeze to put in, as all the building crew has to do after excavating your site is lower them into place and backfill around them. Fiberglass also offers the best balance of durability and affordability.\\nFor saltwater pools, you’ll want to go with fiberglass or vinyl lining, as salt can wear down concrete over time.\\n1-6. Go with a vinyl-lined pool if you want to spend less.\\nVinyl swimming pool liners are essentially large, smooth sheets that are shaped to fit the contours of the completed pool. They're by far the most economical option for finishing a home swimming pool. The major downside is that they wear out much faster than both fiberglass and concrete.\\nAnother disadvantage of vinyl pool liners is that they have a tendency to bubble, wrinkle, and pull loose. This means they may need regular adjusting in order to keep their attractive appearance.\\nA vinyl-lined pool will only run you $25,000-50,000 on average, compared to poured concrete, which can cost upwards of $80,000-100,000.\\n1-7. Hire a pool contractor to bring your vision to life.\\nRun a search for pool contractor companies in your area and compare your options carefully. You'll want to select a professional who holds a valid contractor's license signifying that they're qualified to install swimming pools. Experience building pools for at least several years is also a plus.\\nRead reviews from homeowners who have used the contractor in the past to get a sense of what kind of work they do.\\nThe contractor you hire to put in your pool will charge a separate rate for labor, so don't forget to factor their pay into your initial budget.\\n2. Creating the Basic Structure\\n2-1. Excavate the area.\\nOnce you’ve hired a certified pool contractor, they’ll begin by marking off and digging up the ground on the site you’ve selected. To do this, they may need to use a backhoe and other heavy machinery. Excavation is one of the most important parts of the building process, as proper installation of other the pool’s other components depends on it being done right.\\nThe building crew make ask for your help making your property accessible to their equipment.\\nIt’s critical that you have your residential building permit on file at this point. Otherwise, you run the risk of damaging or unearthing utility lines you didn't know about.\\n2-2. Grade the ground at the bottom of the hole.\\nOnce the site has been excavated, the next step is to even out what will become the floor of the pool as much as possible. This will involve covering the bottom surface with a thick layer of washed gravel subsoil, which is then raked and compressed until it’s perfectly level.\\nThere are a few different ways to grade a swimming pool. Some pools have flat bottoms, while others are built with sloping floors that establish a deep end and a shallow end. Be sure to tell your contractor which style you have in mind.\\n2-3. Frame the walls with steel supports.\\nWith the ground dug up and the bottom surface graded, you’re now ready to begin forming the sides of the pool. The building crew will go around the circumference of the hole setting metal rebar and wooden boards. These materials are used to create shape and provide support.\\nLike the floor, it’s important that the walls of your new pool be flat, level, and in alignment with one another.\\nIt may be necessary to hire a separate steel subcontractor to frame the walls of your pool if your building contractor isn’t licensed or equipped to do so.\\n2-4. Install all necessary plumbing fixtures.\\nAt this point, you’ll need to bring in a licensed plumbing expert to set up the pool’s water circulation and filtration systems. This will include components like the drain, skimmers, 2- and 3-way valves, and the main pump that are responsible for filling, emptying, and moving water throughout the pool.\\nBe sure to hire someone with extensive experience working on pools—an inexperienced plumber could make a mess of your new pool before it’s even finished.\\nNote that plumbing systems may differ depending on the building codes where you live.\\n2-5. Wire the pool for electricity.\\nBefore the pool is lined, an electrical contractor will need to run power to your in order to power the filtration system and any underwater lighting elements you wish to include. This is another time when it’s important to secure the services of a professional, as bad wiring and water can be a dangerous combination.\\nAsk your main building contractor for recommendations for trustworthy electricians that they’ve worked with in the past.\\nSwimming pool electrical safety is a major concern. Faulty wiring could increase swimmers’ risk of electrical shock.\\n3. Lining the Pool\\n3-1. Pour the walls and floor if you’re putting in a concrete pool.\\nWith the plumbing and electrical fixtures in place, the building crew will use a concrete mixer to cover the steel forms set up along the interior of the pool. They’ll grade and smooth the concrete manually while it’s still wet.\\nFor pools with varying depths, it will be necessary to check that the angle of slope is consistent from one end to the other.\\nThe walls of concrete pools are typically finished with either cinder block or sprayed concrete. Your contractor might also install a plaster cap over the concrete so it has a nice finish.\\nConcrete needs time to cure—typically about 28 days—so talk to your contractor about how long you need to wait before you do any more work on your pool.\\n3-2. Have fiberglass pools set professionally.\\nMost fiberglass pools come in a single-piece construction. If you picked out a premade fiberglass pool for your yard, it will need to be put in place using a crane or similar piece of equipment. Afterwards, the building crew will fill in the space around the pool with dirt or concrete.\\nIn some cases, fiberglass liners are installed by spraying the fiberglass material onto an existing frame rather than setting a premade pool in one piece.\\n3-3. Fit vinyl pools with a flexible liner.\\nVinyl liners can only be installed after the concrete base has been poured and given 1-2 full days to dry. The installers will unroll the one-piece vinyl sheet and stretch it out to cover the entire inner surface of the pool. They’ll then attach it by securing the built-in liner tack around the outer edges and insert a vacuum nozzle to suction out the air between the liner and the walls of the pool.\\nBefore installing the liner, the building crew will need to mark and cut out holes for the lights, skimmers, and any other fixtures on the pool’s interior.\\nVinyl liners are often easy enough to put in yourself, although having the assistance of a professional will ensure that installation is carried out correctly and efficiently.\\n3-4. Fill up the pool.\\nWith the construction complete, all that’s left to do is add water! Depending on how eager you are to take your first dip, you could run the water slowly using a hose connected to your home’s water supply, or rent a water truck to top it off in less time.\\nFilling a swimming pool with a single water hose can be an all day (maybe even all night) event. When you rent a water truck, the water will be dispensed into your pool via multiple hoses to fill it much faster.\\nWhile filling your new pool, check for leaks, plumbing malfunctions, or other complications. If you discover an issue, contact the building contractor to schedule repairs before you use the pool.\\n3-5. Treat your pool\\nUse a home water testing kit to find the pH of the water in your pool. Then, add chlorine and other chemicals like shock and algaecide as needed to bring it to the recommended levels for safe swimming. The ideal pH for the water in a swimming pool is 7.4-7.6, or just above neutral.\\nIt usually takes about 10 days for the pH and chlorine levels in your pool to balance out.\\nYou can pick up a water testing kit anywhere that sells pool supplies.\\nThe exact amount of chlorine you'll need will depend on the volume of your pool. If you're unsure how much to add, contact a pool maintenance company for assistance.\\nIf you're planning on having a salt water pool, you'll add the salt (along with the correct proportions of other chemicals) after the pool has been filled.\\nTips\\nTake the time to research the various lining, plumbing, and filtration options you have available to you before finalizing the plans for your new pool.\\nOnce your pool is finished, it will be up to you to see to the cleaning, chlorination, and general upkeep, unless you elect to hire a professional pool service.\\nAlways keep your pool covered in the off-season when you’re not using it. This will both keep it clean and protect it from damage as a result of exposure to the elements.\\nWarnings\\nIn some places, swimming pools and similar projects are considered taxable home additions. The exception to this is if the finished pool doesn’t increase your home’s property value.[35]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A swimming pool can make a great addition to a big back yard, but installing one is far from a DIY project. In most cities, you won’t be allowed to build a pool yourself, as construction must be supervised by a licensed builder in order to be considered up to code. However, the installation process is similar, whether you’re putting in a fiberglass, vinyl, or concrete pool. Start by choosing a suitable location for your new pool, then deciding on your preferred shape and depth. You’ll then hire out a building crew, who will excavate the area, add the necessary plumbing and electrical wiring elements, and finally pour concrete or insert a water-retentive liner before filling the pool.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Pool\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain the necessary building permits.\", \"描述\": \"Your city will likely require you to have a residential building permit in order to put a swimming pool on your property. You can usually apply for a residential building permit on the website of your local Department of Building and Safety.\\nIn addition to granting you permission to construct a swimming pool, the residential building permit will outline the exact requirements and specifications of your new pool.\\nThere may be state or local guidelines that you have to follow for your pool, like how far it has to be from your property line.\\nDon’t forget to also check your neighborhood’s homeowners association guidelines before moving forward with the installation—not all neighborhoods allow pools.\\nSome municipalities may also expect you to have a separate electrical permit. However, the electrician you contract to take care of your pool’s inground wiring can often apply for an electrical permit on your behalf.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick out a suitable site for the pool.\", \"描述\": \"Designate a part of your property that would work best for your new pool. Swimming pools are typically found in the backyards of most homes, though you could also situate yours to one side if you have enough space to play with.\\nThink carefully about where your pool will go. Installing a swimming pool in certain areas may require you to add or remove other outdoor features like trees or sections of fencing, which will drive up the cost of the project.\\nYou may have a limited number of options in regards to your pool’s overall dimensions, depending on where you decide to put it.\\nYou'll also need to make sure that the excavation equipment has access to the area where you want to dig your pool.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Come up with a basic design for your pool.\", \"描述\": \"Think about how you want your new pool to look. Would you prefer a round, square, or rectangular shape? How deep will it be? How many entrances and exits will it have? These are all important details that you'll need to discuss with your contractor before the project gets underway.\\nMost home swimming pools come in standardized sizes like 10 feet (3.0 m) x 20 feet (6.1 m), 15 feet (4.6 m) x 30 feet (9.1 m), and 20 feet (6.1 m) x 40 feet (12 m), and may be anywhere from 4–15 feet (1.2–4.6 m) deep.\\nKeep in mind that the more complex your pool design is, the higher the total cost will be.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create the foundation of your pool with concrete to ensure that it's built to last.\", \"描述\": \"Most residential swimming pools are finished using 1 of 3 surfacing materials: poured concrete, fiberglass, or vinyl. Concrete is the strongest and most durable, but also the most expensive. It tends to be the best choice for large pools that are intended as a permanent addition to a home's exterior.\\nIf you expect your pool to receive heavy use, investing in a long-lasting material like concrete can cut down on the cost of repairs in the long run.\\nA well-maintained concrete swimming pool can also add to the resale value of your home, in some cases.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Purchase a molded fiberglass pool for ease of installation.\", \"描述\": \"Fiberglass pools are most often sold as one-piece premade forms. This make them a breeze to put in, as all the building crew has to do after excavating your site is lower them into place and backfill around them. Fiberglass also offers the best balance of durability and affordability.\\nFor saltwater pools, you’ll want to go with fiberglass or vinyl lining, as salt can wear down concrete over time.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Go with a vinyl-lined pool if you want to spend less.\", \"描述\": \"Vinyl swimming pool liners are essentially large, smooth sheets that are shaped to fit the contours of the completed pool. They're by far the most economical option for finishing a home swimming pool. The major downside is that they wear out much faster than both fiberglass and concrete.\\nAnother disadvantage of vinyl pool liners is that they have a tendency to bubble, wrinkle, and pull loose. This means they may need regular adjusting in order to keep their attractive appearance.\\nA vinyl-lined pool will only run you $25,000-50,000 on average, compared to poured concrete, which can cost upwards of $80,000-100,000.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Hire a pool contractor to bring your vision to life.\", \"描述\": \"Run a search for pool contractor companies in your area and compare your options carefully. You'll want to select a professional who holds a valid contractor's license signifying that they're qualified to install swimming pools. Experience building pools for at least several years is also a plus.\\nRead reviews from homeowners who have used the contractor in the past to get a sense of what kind of work they do.\\nThe contractor you hire to put in your pool will charge a separate rate for labor, so don't forget to factor their pay into your initial budget.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Basic Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Excavate the area.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve hired a certified pool contractor, they’ll begin by marking off and digging up the ground on the site you’ve selected. To do this, they may need to use a backhoe and other heavy machinery. Excavation is one of the most important parts of the building process, as proper installation of other the pool’s other components depends on it being done right.\\nThe building crew make ask for your help making your property accessible to their equipment.\\nIt’s critical that you have your residential building permit on file at this point. Otherwise, you run the risk of damaging or unearthing utility lines you didn't know about.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Grade the ground at the bottom of the hole.\", \"描述\": \"Once the site has been excavated, the next step is to even out what will become the floor of the pool as much as possible. This will involve covering the bottom surface with a thick layer of washed gravel subsoil, which is then raked and compressed until it’s perfectly level.\\nThere are a few different ways to grade a swimming pool. Some pools have flat bottoms, while others are built with sloping floors that establish a deep end and a shallow end. Be sure to tell your contractor which style you have in mind.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Frame the walls with steel supports.\", \"描述\": \"With the ground dug up and the bottom surface graded, you’re now ready to begin forming the sides of the pool. The building crew will go around the circumference of the hole setting metal rebar and wooden boards. These materials are used to create shape and provide support.\\nLike the floor, it’s important that the walls of your new pool be flat, level, and in alignment with one another.\\nIt may be necessary to hire a separate steel subcontractor to frame the walls of your pool if your building contractor isn’t licensed or equipped to do so.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install all necessary plumbing fixtures.\", \"描述\": \"At this point, you’ll need to bring in a licensed plumbing expert to set up the pool’s water circulation and filtration systems. This will include components like the drain, skimmers, 2- and 3-way valves, and the main pump that are responsible for filling, emptying, and moving water throughout the pool.\\nBe sure to hire someone with extensive experience working on pools—an inexperienced plumber could make a mess of your new pool before it’s even finished.\\nNote that plumbing systems may differ depending on the building codes where you live.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wire the pool for electricity.\", \"描述\": \"Before the pool is lined, an electrical contractor will need to run power to your in order to power the filtration system and any underwater lighting elements you wish to include. This is another time when it’s important to secure the services of a professional, as bad wiring and water can be a dangerous combination.\\nAsk your main building contractor for recommendations for trustworthy electricians that they’ve worked with in the past.\\nSwimming pool electrical safety is a major concern. Faulty wiring could increase swimmers’ risk of electrical shock.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lining the Pool\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pour the walls and floor if you’re putting in a concrete pool.\", \"描述\": \"With the plumbing and electrical fixtures in place, the building crew will use a concrete mixer to cover the steel forms set up along the interior of the pool. They’ll grade and smooth the concrete manually while it’s still wet.\\nFor pools with varying depths, it will be necessary to check that the angle of slope is consistent from one end to the other.\\nThe walls of concrete pools are typically finished with either cinder block or sprayed concrete. Your contractor might also install a plaster cap over the concrete so it has a nice finish.\\nConcrete needs time to cure—typically about 28 days—so talk to your contractor about how long you need to wait before you do any more work on your pool.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Have fiberglass pools set professionally.\", \"描述\": \"Most fiberglass pools come in a single-piece construction. If you picked out a premade fiberglass pool for your yard, it will need to be put in place using a crane or similar piece of equipment. Afterwards, the building crew will fill in the space around the pool with dirt or concrete.\\nIn some cases, fiberglass liners are installed by spraying the fiberglass material onto an existing frame rather than setting a premade pool in one piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fit vinyl pools with a flexible liner.\", \"描述\": \"Vinyl liners can only be installed after the concrete base has been poured and given 1-2 full days to dry. The installers will unroll the one-piece vinyl sheet and stretch it out to cover the entire inner surface of the pool. They’ll then attach it by securing the built-in liner tack around the outer edges and insert a vacuum nozzle to suction out the air between the liner and the walls of the pool.\\nBefore installing the liner, the building crew will need to mark and cut out holes for the lights, skimmers, and any other fixtures on the pool’s interior.\\nVinyl liners are often easy enough to put in yourself, although having the assistance of a professional will ensure that installation is carried out correctly and efficiently.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill up the pool.\", \"描述\": \"With the construction complete, all that’s left to do is add water! Depending on how eager you are to take your first dip, you could run the water slowly using a hose connected to your home’s water supply, or rent a water truck to top it off in less time.\\nFilling a swimming pool with a single water hose can be an all day (maybe even all night) event. When you rent a water truck, the water will be dispensed into your pool via multiple hoses to fill it much faster.\\nWhile filling your new pool, check for leaks, plumbing malfunctions, or other complications. If you discover an issue, contact the building contractor to schedule repairs before you use the pool.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Treat your pool\", \"描述\": \"Use a home water testing kit to find the pH of the water in your pool. Then, add chlorine and other chemicals like shock and algaecide as needed to bring it to the recommended levels for safe swimming. The ideal pH for the water in a swimming pool is 7.4-7.6, or just above neutral.\\nIt usually takes about 10 days for the pH and chlorine levels in your pool to balance out.\\nYou can pick up a water testing kit anywhere that sells pool supplies.\\nThe exact amount of chlorine you'll need will depend on the volume of your pool. If you're unsure how much to add, contact a pool maintenance company for assistance.\\nIf you're planning on having a salt water pool, you'll add the salt (along with the correct proportions of other chemicals) after the pool has been filled.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Take the time to research the various lining, plumbing, and filtration options you have available to you before finalizing the plans for your new pool.\\n\", \"Once your pool is finished, it will be up to you to see to the cleaning, chlorination, and general upkeep, unless you elect to hire a professional pool service.\\n\", \"Always keep your pool covered in the off-season when you’re not using it. This will both keep it clean and protect it from damage as a result of exposure to the elements.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"In some places, swimming pools and similar projects are considered taxable home additions. The exception to this is if the finished pool doesn’t increase your home’s property value.[35]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,585 |
How to Build a Swimming Pool from Wood and Plastic
|
1. Steps
1-1. Build braces for the side of the pool by placing two pieces of wood the length of the pool on the floor.
find out what height you want the pool and then cut wood to that length minus the width of the 2" by 4".
1-2. Screw the pieces into the wood at minimum 1" distances and maximum 2" distance.
1-3. Repeat step 1 and 2 until you have 4 braces like this.
1-4. Cut 4 pieces of plywood to the height and length of the braces.
Attach them on the front side of the bracing.
1-5. Now you need to build side bracing to hold the water in.
You can either design your own bracing or use this one. Build a box of 2" by 4" the height of the pool with another piece of 2" by 4" on the inside going diagonally. Try to make sure the wood on the inside goes from the top of the pool wall to the ground at the bottom of the base.
1-6. Build at least 4 for each side, and attach them to the 2" by 4" on the inside of wall bracing.
1-7. Attach the walls together by either putting them together and screwing the sides in, or you can use a block on the corners and connect them.
The first one is the simpler and easier one, you just require long screws.
1-8. Screw the pool walls into the floor from the braces and from the pool walls itself, use many, many, many screws.
1-9. Put the pool liner inside the pool walls you have connected, and then screw 1" by 4" or 1" by 3" into the top of the pool walls to secure the plastic.
1-10. Fill it with water.
1-11. Finished.
Tips
You do not need to set up a pump to fill the pool, but it would help to keep it clean.
If you don't put chemicals into the pool or use the new UV method, then the pool will get disgusting over only a few days at max, possibly a day at minimum.
You can line the floor of the pool with plywood to try to help it, but it doesn't matter.
Warnings
The deeper the pool is, the greater the water pressure pushes the walls out. Be prepared for catastrophic failure of the walls.
Water will leak out, you'll have to clean it up or the floor could be warped depending on how much.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:10",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Build braces for the side of the pool by placing two pieces of wood the length of the pool on the floor.\\nfind out what height you want the pool and then cut wood to that length minus the width of the 2\\\" by 4\\\".\\n1-2. Screw the pieces into the wood at minimum 1\\\" distances and maximum 2\\\" distance.\\n\\n1-3. Repeat step 1 and 2 until you have 4 braces like this.\\n\\n1-4. Cut 4 pieces of plywood to the height and length of the braces.\\nAttach them on the front side of the bracing.\\n1-5. Now you need to build side bracing to hold the water in.\\nYou can either design your own bracing or use this one. Build a box of 2\\\" by 4\\\" the height of the pool with another piece of 2\\\" by 4\\\" on the inside going diagonally. Try to make sure the wood on the inside goes from the top of the pool wall to the ground at the bottom of the base.\\n1-6. Build at least 4 for each side, and attach them to the 2\\\" by 4\\\" on the inside of wall bracing.\\n\\n1-7. Attach the walls together by either putting them together and screwing the sides in, or you can use a block on the corners and connect them.\\nThe first one is the simpler and easier one, you just require long screws.\\n1-8. Screw the pool walls into the floor from the braces and from the pool walls itself, use many, many, many screws.\\n\\n1-9. Put the pool liner inside the pool walls you have connected, and then screw 1\\\" by 4\\\" or 1\\\" by 3\\\" into the top of the pool walls to secure the plastic.\\n\\n1-10. Fill it with water.\\n\\n1-11. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nYou do not need to set up a pump to fill the pool, but it would help to keep it clean.\\nIf you don't put chemicals into the pool or use the new UV method, then the pool will get disgusting over only a few days at max, possibly a day at minimum.\\nYou can line the floor of the pool with plywood to try to help it, but it doesn't matter.\\nWarnings\\nThe deeper the pool is, the greater the water pressure pushes the walls out. Be prepared for catastrophic failure of the walls.\\nWater will leak out, you'll have to clean it up or the floor could be warped depending on how much.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You will require a lot of 2\\\" by 4\\\" pieces of wood, at least 8 as long as you want a side of the pool, and a lot of other ones for the bracing, at least 20 braces will be needed depending on height of pool.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build braces for the side of the pool by placing two pieces of wood the length of the pool on the floor.\", \"描述\": \"find out what height you want the pool and then cut wood to that length minus the width of the 2\\\" by 4\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw the pieces into the wood at minimum 1\\\" distances and maximum 2\\\" distance.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Repeat step 1 and 2 until you have 4 braces like this.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut 4 pieces of plywood to the height and length of the braces.\", \"描述\": \"Attach them on the front side of the bracing.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Now you need to build side bracing to hold the water in.\", \"描述\": \"You can either design your own bracing or use this one. Build a box of 2\\\" by 4\\\" the height of the pool with another piece of 2\\\" by 4\\\" on the inside going diagonally. Try to make sure the wood on the inside goes from the top of the pool wall to the ground at the bottom of the base.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build at least 4 for each side, and attach them to the 2\\\" by 4\\\" on the inside of wall bracing.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the walls together by either putting them together and screwing the sides in, or you can use a block on the corners and connect them.\", \"描述\": \"The first one is the simpler and easier one, you just require long screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Screw the pool walls into the floor from the braces and from the pool walls itself, use many, many, many screws.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Put the pool liner inside the pool walls you have connected, and then screw 1\\\" by 4\\\" or 1\\\" by 3\\\" into the top of the pool walls to secure the plastic.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Fill it with water.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You do not need to set up a pump to fill the pool, but it would help to keep it clean.\\n\", \"If you don't put chemicals into the pool or use the new UV method, then the pool will get disgusting over only a few days at max, possibly a day at minimum.\\n\", \"You can line the floor of the pool with plywood to try to help it, but it doesn't matter.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"The deeper the pool is, the greater the water pressure pushes the walls out. Be prepared for catastrophic failure of the walls.\\n\", \"Water will leak out, you'll have to clean it up or the floor could be warped depending on how much.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,586 |
How to Build a TARDIS Replica
|
1. Planning
1-1. Determine the final size.
This will make a big difference in your construction, materials, and of course, cost. Also consider that a full-sized replica will be incredibly heavy, so you'll want to build it in place.
For this article, the measurement used is referred to simply as "units" rather than inches or meters. For example, instead of 1 inch or 1 cm, the article uses the abbreviation 1u.
This will be the basis for all the relative dimensions you will need to calculate the final sizes. If your TARDIS is to be 4 cm square, then everything is multiplied by 4. For example, say that the vertical posts on each corner are 2u high by .1u square. Multiply everything by 4, and the final dimensions will be 8cm x .4cm x .4cm.
1-2. Gather your materials.
Refer to the Things You'll Need List below, and have all the pieces cut to size and ready build before you start.
For the balance of this article, it is assumed that you're building a scale replica. If you wish to build the full-sized version, be sure to build securely, using screws and braces as necessary.
2. Building the Frame
2-1. Start with the base.
Lay it down on a flat surface. If it’s small enough to be moved when the TARDIS is finished, lay it on a sheet of paper or other protective material. If it’s going to stay where you build it, make sure the ground is level and not subject to moisture. Lay down a tarp if necessary.
Base = 1u square x .2u high.
2-2. Add the corner posts and the ceiling.
This will be the framework for everything that follows, so build this part carefully.
2-3. Mark the corners.
With a pencil, mark the inside top of the base around all 4 corners at .05u. For example, if your base is 4 cm square, make a mark at .2 cm. (4 x .05 = .2)
2-4. Connect the dots.
Draw a line between the center points of your marks with pencil as a guide for placing the other parts of the TARDIS build.
2-5. Attach the posts.
Glue the posts to the base so that they sit inside the guidelines, as shown.
2-6. Attach the ceiling.
Place the ceiling board on top of the corner posts, aligned so that the edges are flush.
2-7. Allow the TARDIS frame time to dry and let the glue set.
3. Building the Roof
3-1. Build the outer roof frame.
Take the 4 outer roof pieces, and glue them together to form a picture-frame-like box.
3-2. Build the inner roof frame.
Using the 4 inner roof pieces, glue them together to form a box that will fit inside the outer roof frame.
If there are small gaps, don’t worry––those can be taken care of with filler before painting.
3-3. Attach the frame.
Center the frame structure on top of the roof, and mark the location. Apply glue to the bottom of the frame, and attach. Add the 4 support blocks on the inside corners of the frame, as shown.
3-4. Attach the top.
Apply glue to the support blocks, and set the roof top in place. It should be flush with the top of the frames.
3-5. Alternate roof assembly:
Replace the frames with solid pieces. Instead of an outer frame and an inner frame plus support blocks, center and attach one .7u square x .1u high piece, then top it with a .6u square x .1u high piece.
3-6. Add a roof cap for the lantern.
Center and glue this block to the top of the roof assembly.
3-7. Allow to dry.
Make sure the entire roof assembly is squared, and let dry.
3-8. Add a lantern.
4. Building the Sides
4-1. Attach between the posts.
For all sides but the door side, center the side panels horizontally between the posts. Glue these in place on the bottom and sides, and let dry.
If they are too tight, trim a little off one side until they fit snugly.
If too loose, add a small frame inside each side of the posts, then attach the side panel to that frame.
4-2. Add the windows.
Attach two window panels on each non-door side. They should fit snugly between the top of the side panels and the roof.
4-3. Add vertical trim.
Attach the long vertical strip in the center of the side panel on all 3 sides, and allow to dry.
4-4. Add horizontal trim.
Starting at .05u from the bottom of the side panel, make a mark every .5u. Do this on each side of the vertical trim piece, and on the edges of the side panels. Attach a horizontal trim piece at each point, as shown.
5. Adding the Door
5-1. Build the stationary side.
Attach the left door panel, centered on the left vertical post. Glue it to the post and to the base, and make sure it is straight across the bottom.
Allow to dry.
5-2. Attach the hinges.
The TARDIS opens inward, so attach the hinges to the inside of the right door panel. Center the door panel on the right vertical post, then attach the hinges to that post. Test to make sure it opens smoothly.
5-3. Add the windows.
Attach one window panels to the left door panel, gluing it in place on the panel, the post, and the ceiling. For the swinging door panel, glue only the bottom of the window.
5-4. Add the vertical trim.
Attach the long vertical strip to the left door panel so that the right edge of the strip is flush with the right edge of the door panel.
Attach the long vertical strip to the right door panel so that the left edge of the strip is flush with the left edge of the door.
5-5. Add horizontal trim.
Starting at .05u from the bottom of the door panel, make a mark every .5u. Do this on each side of the vertical trim pieces, and on the outer edges of the door panels. Attach a horizontal trim piece at each point, as was done with the side trim.
5-6. Let everything set and dry thoroughly.
6. Finish your TARDIS
6-1. Add personal touches, Now that you are done, you will want to personalize it.
Start by painting it a deep gray-blue. Here’s a color chip you can use as a reference.
The BBC approved Tardis blue is actually Pantone 2955C.
Be sure to mask off the windows, unless you want them blue too!
6-2. Add a handle.
When the paint has dried, add a door handle.
You can also add a magnetic latch to secure the door, or a stop on base and roof so that it can’t be pulled outward.
Finish the inside. Gold paint would be a good choice.
6-3. Add signage.
Add a panel across the top that says Police Public Call Box on the outside edges of the ceiling. It is white lettering on a black background.
The panel on the front of the TARDIS reads as follows:
6-4. You are now the proud owner of a TARDIS.
Safe travels!
Tips
Visit instructive websites such as: http://tardisbuilders.com/ for more inspiration.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:11",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning\\n1-1. Determine the final size.\\nThis will make a big difference in your construction, materials, and of course, cost. Also consider that a full-sized replica will be incredibly heavy, so you'll want to build it in place.\\nFor this article, the measurement used is referred to simply as \\\"units\\\" rather than inches or meters. For example, instead of 1 inch or 1 cm, the article uses the abbreviation 1u.\\nThis will be the basis for all the relative dimensions you will need to calculate the final sizes. If your TARDIS is to be 4 cm square, then everything is multiplied by 4. For example, say that the vertical posts on each corner are 2u high by .1u square. Multiply everything by 4, and the final dimensions will be 8cm x .4cm x .4cm.\\n1-2. Gather your materials.\\nRefer to the Things You'll Need List below, and have all the pieces cut to size and ready build before you start.\\nFor the balance of this article, it is assumed that you're building a scale replica. If you wish to build the full-sized version, be sure to build securely, using screws and braces as necessary.\\n2. Building the Frame\\n2-1. Start with the base.\\nLay it down on a flat surface. If it’s small enough to be moved when the TARDIS is finished, lay it on a sheet of paper or other protective material. If it’s going to stay where you build it, make sure the ground is level and not subject to moisture. Lay down a tarp if necessary.\\nBase = 1u square x .2u high.\\n2-2. Add the corner posts and the ceiling.\\nThis will be the framework for everything that follows, so build this part carefully.\\n2-3. Mark the corners.\\nWith a pencil, mark the inside top of the base around all 4 corners at .05u. For example, if your base is 4 cm square, make a mark at .2 cm. (4 x .05 = .2)\\n2-4. Connect the dots.\\nDraw a line between the center points of your marks with pencil as a guide for placing the other parts of the TARDIS build.\\n2-5. Attach the posts.\\nGlue the posts to the base so that they sit inside the guidelines, as shown.\\n2-6. Attach the ceiling.\\nPlace the ceiling board on top of the corner posts, aligned so that the edges are flush.\\n2-7. Allow the TARDIS frame time to dry and let the glue set.\\n\\n3. Building the Roof\\n3-1. Build the outer roof frame.\\nTake the 4 outer roof pieces, and glue them together to form a picture-frame-like box.\\n3-2. Build the inner roof frame.\\nUsing the 4 inner roof pieces, glue them together to form a box that will fit inside the outer roof frame.\\nIf there are small gaps, don’t worry––those can be taken care of with filler before painting.\\n3-3. Attach the frame.\\nCenter the frame structure on top of the roof, and mark the location. Apply glue to the bottom of the frame, and attach. Add the 4 support blocks on the inside corners of the frame, as shown.\\n3-4. Attach the top.\\nApply glue to the support blocks, and set the roof top in place. It should be flush with the top of the frames.\\n3-5. Alternate roof assembly:\\nReplace the frames with solid pieces. Instead of an outer frame and an inner frame plus support blocks, center and attach one .7u square x .1u high piece, then top it with a .6u square x .1u high piece.\\n3-6. Add a roof cap for the lantern.\\nCenter and glue this block to the top of the roof assembly.\\n3-7. Allow to dry.\\nMake sure the entire roof assembly is squared, and let dry.\\n3-8. Add a lantern.\\n\\n4. Building the Sides\\n4-1. Attach between the posts.\\nFor all sides but the door side, center the side panels horizontally between the posts. Glue these in place on the bottom and sides, and let dry.\\nIf they are too tight, trim a little off one side until they fit snugly.\\nIf too loose, add a small frame inside each side of the posts, then attach the side panel to that frame.\\n4-2. Add the windows.\\nAttach two window panels on each non-door side. They should fit snugly between the top of the side panels and the roof.\\n4-3. Add vertical trim.\\nAttach the long vertical strip in the center of the side panel on all 3 sides, and allow to dry.\\n4-4. Add horizontal trim.\\nStarting at .05u from the bottom of the side panel, make a mark every .5u. Do this on each side of the vertical trim piece, and on the edges of the side panels. Attach a horizontal trim piece at each point, as shown.\\n5. Adding the Door\\n5-1. Build the stationary side.\\nAttach the left door panel, centered on the left vertical post. Glue it to the post and to the base, and make sure it is straight across the bottom.\\nAllow to dry.\\n5-2. Attach the hinges.\\nThe TARDIS opens inward, so attach the hinges to the inside of the right door panel. Center the door panel on the right vertical post, then attach the hinges to that post. Test to make sure it opens smoothly.\\n5-3. Add the windows.\\nAttach one window panels to the left door panel, gluing it in place on the panel, the post, and the ceiling. For the swinging door panel, glue only the bottom of the window.\\n5-4. Add the vertical trim.\\nAttach the long vertical strip to the left door panel so that the right edge of the strip is flush with the right edge of the door panel.\\nAttach the long vertical strip to the right door panel so that the left edge of the strip is flush with the left edge of the door.\\n5-5. Add horizontal trim.\\nStarting at .05u from the bottom of the door panel, make a mark every .5u. Do this on each side of the vertical trim pieces, and on the outer edges of the door panels. Attach a horizontal trim piece at each point, as was done with the side trim.\\n5-6. Let everything set and dry thoroughly.\\n\\n6. Finish your TARDIS\\n6-1. Add personal touches, Now that you are done, you will want to personalize it.\\nStart by painting it a deep gray-blue. Here’s a color chip you can use as a reference.\\nThe BBC approved Tardis blue is actually Pantone 2955C.\\nBe sure to mask off the windows, unless you want them blue too!\\n6-2. Add a handle.\\nWhen the paint has dried, add a door handle.\\nYou can also add a magnetic latch to secure the door, or a stop on base and roof so that it can’t be pulled outward.\\nFinish the inside. Gold paint would be a good choice.\\n6-3. Add signage.\\nAdd a panel across the top that says Police Public Call Box on the outside edges of the ceiling. It is white lettering on a black background.\\nThe panel on the front of the TARDIS reads as follows:\\n6-4. You are now the proud owner of a TARDIS.\\nSafe travels!\\nTips\\nVisit instructive websites such as: http://tardisbuilders.com/ for more inspiration.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Wouldn't it be great to hop aboard the TARDIS from the BBC Series Doctor Who and take a trip through time and space? wikiHow tried contacting The Doctor––alas with no luck (yet)–– but we were able to locate plans to build your own. Since we have yet to defy the laws of physics, it will not be bigger on the inside than it is on the outside, but if you follow these simple steps, you'll be well on your way!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the final size.\", \"描述\": \"This will make a big difference in your construction, materials, and of course, cost. Also consider that a full-sized replica will be incredibly heavy, so you'll want to build it in place.\\nFor this article, the measurement used is referred to simply as \\\"units\\\" rather than inches or meters. For example, instead of 1 inch or 1 cm, the article uses the abbreviation 1u.\\nThis will be the basis for all the relative dimensions you will need to calculate the final sizes. If your TARDIS is to be 4 cm square, then everything is multiplied by 4. For example, say that the vertical posts on each corner are 2u high by .1u square. Multiply everything by 4, and the final dimensions will be 8cm x .4cm x .4cm.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"Refer to the Things You'll Need List below, and have all the pieces cut to size and ready build before you start.\\nFor the balance of this article, it is assumed that you're building a scale replica. If you wish to build the full-sized version, be sure to build securely, using screws and braces as necessary.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start with the base.\", \"描述\": \"Lay it down on a flat surface. If it’s small enough to be moved when the TARDIS is finished, lay it on a sheet of paper or other protective material. If it’s going to stay where you build it, make sure the ground is level and not subject to moisture. Lay down a tarp if necessary.\\nBase = 1u square x .2u high.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add the corner posts and the ceiling.\", \"描述\": \"This will be the framework for everything that follows, so build this part carefully.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the corners.\", \"描述\": \"With a pencil, mark the inside top of the base around all 4 corners at .05u. For example, if your base is 4 cm square, make a mark at .2 cm. (4 x .05 = .2)\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the dots.\", \"描述\": \"Draw a line between the center points of your marks with pencil as a guide for placing the other parts of the TARDIS build.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Glue the posts to the base so that they sit inside the guidelines, as shown.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the ceiling.\", \"描述\": \"Place the ceiling board on top of the corner posts, aligned so that the edges are flush.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Allow the TARDIS frame time to dry and let the glue set.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build the outer roof frame.\", \"描述\": \"Take the 4 outer roof pieces, and glue them together to form a picture-frame-like box.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the inner roof frame.\", \"描述\": \"Using the 4 inner roof pieces, glue them together to form a box that will fit inside the outer roof frame.\\nIf there are small gaps, don’t worry––those can be taken care of with filler before painting.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Center the frame structure on top of the roof, and mark the location. Apply glue to the bottom of the frame, and attach. Add the 4 support blocks on the inside corners of the frame, as shown.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the top.\", \"描述\": \"Apply glue to the support blocks, and set the roof top in place. It should be flush with the top of the frames.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Alternate roof assembly:\", \"描述\": \"Replace the frames with solid pieces. Instead of an outer frame and an inner frame plus support blocks, center and attach one .7u square x .1u high piece, then top it with a .6u square x .1u high piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add a roof cap for the lantern.\", \"描述\": \"Center and glue this block to the top of the roof assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Allow to dry.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the entire roof assembly is squared, and let dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add a lantern.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Building the Sides\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach between the posts.\", \"描述\": \"For all sides but the door side, center the side panels horizontally between the posts. Glue these in place on the bottom and sides, and let dry.\\nIf they are too tight, trim a little off one side until they fit snugly.\\nIf too loose, add a small frame inside each side of the posts, then attach the side panel to that frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add the windows.\", \"描述\": \"Attach two window panels on each non-door side. They should fit snugly between the top of the side panels and the roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add vertical trim.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the long vertical strip in the center of the side panel on all 3 sides, and allow to dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add horizontal trim.\", \"描述\": \"Starting at .05u from the bottom of the side panel, make a mark every .5u. Do this on each side of the vertical trim piece, and on the edges of the side panels. Attach a horizontal trim piece at each point, as shown.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Adding the Door\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build the stationary side.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the left door panel, centered on the left vertical post. Glue it to the post and to the base, and make sure it is straight across the bottom.\\nAllow to dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the hinges.\", \"描述\": \"The TARDIS opens inward, so attach the hinges to the inside of the right door panel. Center the door panel on the right vertical post, then attach the hinges to that post. Test to make sure it opens smoothly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add the windows.\", \"描述\": \"Attach one window panels to the left door panel, gluing it in place on the panel, the post, and the ceiling. For the swinging door panel, glue only the bottom of the window.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the vertical trim.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the long vertical strip to the left door panel so that the right edge of the strip is flush with the right edge of the door panel.\\nAttach the long vertical strip to the right door panel so that the left edge of the strip is flush with the left edge of the door.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add horizontal trim.\", \"描述\": \"Starting at .05u from the bottom of the door panel, make a mark every .5u. Do this on each side of the vertical trim pieces, and on the outer edges of the door panels. Attach a horizontal trim piece at each point, as was done with the side trim.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Let everything set and dry thoroughly.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Finish your TARDIS\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add personal touches, Now that you are done, you will want to personalize it.\", \"描述\": \"Start by painting it a deep gray-blue. Here’s a color chip you can use as a reference.\\nThe BBC approved Tardis blue is actually Pantone 2955C.\\nBe sure to mask off the windows, unless you want them blue too!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add a handle.\", \"描述\": \"When the paint has dried, add a door handle.\\nYou can also add a magnetic latch to secure the door, or a stop on base and roof so that it can’t be pulled outward.\\nFinish the inside. Gold paint would be a good choice.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add signage.\", \"描述\": \"Add a panel across the top that says Police Public Call Box on the outside edges of the ceiling. It is white lettering on a black background.\\nThe panel on the front of the TARDIS reads as follows:\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"You are now the proud owner of a TARDIS.\", \"描述\": \"Safe travels!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Visit instructive websites such as: http://tardisbuilders.com/ for more inspiration.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,587 |
How to Build a Talk Box
|
1. Steps
1-1. Get a computer speaker.
1-2. Remove the casing of the speaker.
1-3. Cut the wire going to the LED light.
1-4. Flip the Tupperware container upside down.
The lid should be on the ground.
1-5. Insert the speaker into the Tupperware container.
Make sure the circuit board is outside the container, only the wires and the speaker go inside.
1-6. Make sure the speaker cone is facing the bottom of the Tupperware container, about 2" away from it.
1-7. Duct Tape the speaker into place.
Make sure no Duct Tape touches the speaker cone!
1-8. Take out a drill with a large bit, a little bit smaller that your tubing width (the tubing should be no more that 1/2"-3/4" wide).
1-9. Drill a hole in the bottom of the Tupperware.
Be sure to avoid cutting into the speaker cone.
1-10. Insert your tubing in the hole.
The tubing should be 1/2" away from the speaker cone at most. The tube must not touch the speaker cone or it won't work.
1-11. Duct Tape the tube closed.
You might want to use some hot glue as well.
1-12. Stuff some cotton balls behind the speaker until the whole container is full.
Make sure the cotton balls do not touch the speaker cone.
1-13. Close the Tupperware lid.
1-14. Glue the lid down.
1-15. Insert the Tupperware into an airtight box.
Put old T-shirt and socks around the Tupperware.
1-16. Close the box.
1-17. Drill a hole in the side of the box to let the tubing go through.
1-18. Drill another hole in the box to let the cable go through.
1-19. Plug the cable into the CD or external speaker jack on your amp.
1-20. Turn up the volume to 3 o clock.
Don't worry, no sound will come out of your amplifier
1-21. Turn the gain up to 3 o clock.
1-22. Put the tube next to your ear to check for sound.
1-23. Put the tube in your mouth.
Make lip movements, but no sound. Pretend your lip syncing. You can say whatever you want.
Tips
Don't let anyone use your tube, it goes in your mouth.
A good song to try is "Sweet Emotion" by Aerosmith, as the beginning has a talk-box intro.
If your tube becomes foggy, stop playing and let it clear.
Warnings
This may hurt you amp, but it is very unlikely. Just use an old amp.
Use proper hearing protection.
If it begins to hurt when you are playing, stop.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:11",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Get a computer speaker.\\n\\n1-2. Remove the casing of the speaker.\\n\\n1-3. Cut the wire going to the LED light.\\n\\n1-4. Flip the Tupperware container upside down.\\nThe lid should be on the ground.\\n1-5. Insert the speaker into the Tupperware container.\\nMake sure the circuit board is outside the container, only the wires and the speaker go inside.\\n1-6. Make sure the speaker cone is facing the bottom of the Tupperware container, about 2\\\" away from it.\\n\\n1-7. Duct Tape the speaker into place.\\nMake sure no Duct Tape touches the speaker cone!\\n1-8. Take out a drill with a large bit, a little bit smaller that your tubing width (the tubing should be no more that 1/2\\\"-3/4\\\" wide).\\n\\n1-9. Drill a hole in the bottom of the Tupperware.\\nBe sure to avoid cutting into the speaker cone.\\n1-10. Insert your tubing in the hole.\\nThe tubing should be 1/2\\\" away from the speaker cone at most. The tube must not touch the speaker cone or it won't work.\\n1-11. Duct Tape the tube closed.\\nYou might want to use some hot glue as well.\\n1-12. Stuff some cotton balls behind the speaker until the whole container is full.\\nMake sure the cotton balls do not touch the speaker cone.\\n1-13. Close the Tupperware lid.\\n\\n1-14. Glue the lid down.\\n\\n1-15. Insert the Tupperware into an airtight box.\\nPut old T-shirt and socks around the Tupperware.\\n1-16. Close the box.\\n\\n1-17. Drill a hole in the side of the box to let the tubing go through.\\n\\n1-18. Drill another hole in the box to let the cable go through.\\n\\n1-19. Plug the cable into the CD or external speaker jack on your amp.\\n\\n1-20. Turn up the volume to 3 o clock.\\nDon't worry, no sound will come out of your amplifier\\n1-21. Turn the gain up to 3 o clock.\\n\\n1-22. Put the tube next to your ear to check for sound.\\n\\n1-23. Put the tube in your mouth.\\nMake lip movements, but no sound. Pretend your lip syncing. You can say whatever you want.\\nTips\\nDon't let anyone use your tube, it goes in your mouth.\\nA good song to try is \\\"Sweet Emotion\\\" by Aerosmith, as the beginning has a talk-box intro.\\nIf your tube becomes foggy, stop playing and let it clear.\\nWarnings\\nThis may hurt you amp, but it is very unlikely. Just use an old amp.\\nUse proper hearing protection.\\nIf it begins to hurt when you are playing, stop.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A talk box is a guitar effect that makes your guitar sound like its talking, using the power of your mouth.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a computer speaker.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove the casing of the speaker.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the wire going to the LED light.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Flip the Tupperware container upside down.\", \"描述\": \"The lid should be on the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Insert the speaker into the Tupperware container.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the circuit board is outside the container, only the wires and the speaker go inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make sure the speaker cone is facing the bottom of the Tupperware container, about 2\\\" away from it.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Duct Tape the speaker into place.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure no Duct Tape touches the speaker cone!\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Take out a drill with a large bit, a little bit smaller that your tubing width (the tubing should be no more that 1/2\\\"-3/4\\\" wide).\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole in the bottom of the Tupperware.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to avoid cutting into the speaker cone.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Insert your tubing in the hole.\", \"描述\": \"The tubing should be 1/2\\\" away from the speaker cone at most. The tube must not touch the speaker cone or it won't work.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Duct Tape the tube closed.\", \"描述\": \"You might want to use some hot glue as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Stuff some cotton balls behind the speaker until the whole container is full.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the cotton balls do not touch the speaker cone.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Close the Tupperware lid.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Glue the lid down.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Insert the Tupperware into an airtight box.\", \"描述\": \"Put old T-shirt and socks around the Tupperware.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Close the box.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole in the side of the box to let the tubing go through.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Drill another hole in the box to let the cable go through.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"Plug the cable into the CD or external speaker jack on your amp.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 20, \"标题\": \"Turn up the volume to 3 o clock.\", \"描述\": \"Don't worry, no sound will come out of your amplifier\"}, {\"编号\": 21, \"标题\": \"Turn the gain up to 3 o clock.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 22, \"标题\": \"Put the tube next to your ear to check for sound.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 23, \"标题\": \"Put the tube in your mouth.\", \"描述\": \"Make lip movements, but no sound. Pretend your lip syncing. You can say whatever you want.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Don't let anyone use your tube, it goes in your mouth.\\n\", \"A good song to try is \\\"Sweet Emotion\\\" by Aerosmith, as the beginning has a talk-box intro.\\n\", \"If your tube becomes foggy, stop playing and let it clear.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"This may hurt you amp, but it is very unlikely. Just use an old amp.\\n\", \"Use proper hearing protection.\\n\", \"If it begins to hurt when you are playing, stop.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,588 |
How to Build a Tarp Shelter
|
1. Finding a Good Spot
1-1. Find a flat area.
The best areas for building a tarp shelter are places that have flat ground. This can make creating the shelter a bit easier and will allow you a more comfortable place to sleep in. Take some time to find a nice, flat area before building your tarp shelter.
1-2. Look above for dead branches.
Once you've found a nice place on the ground for your shelter, you will want to look above it. Dead branches can pose a serious hazard to campers if they are knocked down by wind. Always avoid placing your shelter under any branches that look old, dead, or dangerous to avoid having one fall on you.
1-3. Look for trees you can use.
Many tarp shelter designs require you to place a sturdy cord or rope between two trees. This cord will act as the ridge-line for your tarp shelter. It's a good idea to look for a flat spot that has two trees for you to place this cord between.
If you can't find two trees, you could try placing two anchor branches in the ground instead.
These trees should be roughly as far apart as your tarp is long.
1-4. Consider the weather.
Although it may be sunny and dry when you set your tarp shelter up, the weather may change during your camping trip. It's important to consider what the weather might do in the near future, allowing you to stay comfortable and avoid any damage to your tarp shelter.
Figure out which way the winds are blowing. Any “wall” of your tarp shelter should face away from the wind.
Avoid putting your shelter in any areas that are low or seem like they could flood during rain storms.
2. Making an A-Frame Shelter
2-1. Create the ridge-line.
The ridge-line will support the top section of your tarp shelter. This line is created by stringing a length of cord between two trees. This gives your tarp an elevated point of support and will form the shape of the a-frame tarp shelter. Place the ridge-line using these steps:
Tie one section of the rope to a tree. Place it as high up the tree trunk as you would like the roof of your tarp shelter to be.
Bring the other end over to the adjacent tree and tie it at the same level.
Make sure the cord is as tight as it can be to ensure a strong ridge-line.
2-2. Lay the tarp over the rope.
Once your ridge-line has been created, you can lay the tarp over top of it. For an a-frame tarp shelter, place the tarp over the ridge-line in the center of the tarp. This will leave equal halves of the tarp hanging down from the ridge-line.
Make sure the tarp is equally hanging from both sides of the ridge-line to avoid problems.
2-3. Anchor the tarp to the ground.
After you've placed the tarp over the ridge-line, you can fasten it to the ground. Take one of the bottom sections of tarp and pull it outwards, away from the center of the tent. Once you've gotten it to a place that you like, secure it to the ground by taking these steps:
Place a tent stake into the ground, near to the point the tarps corner while it is stretched out.
Tie a length of cord between the tent stake and the corner of the tarp.
Make sure this cord is tight and holds the tarp securely to the ground.
Do the same thing for each of the other three corners of your a-frame tarp shelter.
3. Making a Lean-to Shelter
3-1. Find a good spot for the cord.
The lean-to tarp shelter makes use of a ridge-line. This ridge-line is created by tying a length of rope tightly between two trees or other points of support. This will create a point that you can secure your tarp to and finish your shelter.
Find two trees that are as far apart as your tarp is long.
Tie one end of the rope around the trunk of a tree. Tie it at the height that you want the top of your shelter to be at.
Tie the other end of the rope at the same level on the opposite tree.
It's very important that the ridge-line is as tight as it can be.
3-2. Fix one edge of the tarp to the cord.
The lean-to tarp shelter requires you to fix one edge of your tarp to your ridge-line. You can attach the tarp to the ridge-line using cord or rope and many tarps will come with grommets or loops built in. Make sure you attach the tarp to the ridge-line tightly to build a strong tarp shelter.
Your tarp may have holes pre-made along its edge. If so, you can thread the ridge-line through these for an easy way to join them together.
Many tarps will have loops along the corners or edges that can be used to tie them to your ridge-line.
3-3. Anchor the tarp to the ground.
Once the top edge has been tied to the ridge-line, you can secure the bottom edge of the lean-to tarp shelter. Pull the bottom edge away from the center until it is at an angle that you want. Place anchoring stakes in the ground at the corners of the tarp and tie the tarp to them. This will hold the bottom portion of your shelter securely in place.
Most people recommend using a 45 degree angle for their lean-to.
Try adjusting the angle to raise or lower the height of the shelter's "ceiling".
Tips
Find a flat area to build your tarp shelter.
Watch out for dead branches or limbs above your camp site.
A-frames require you to anchor down all four corners of your tarp shelter.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:11",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Finding a Good Spot\\n1-1. Find a flat area.\\nThe best areas for building a tarp shelter are places that have flat ground. This can make creating the shelter a bit easier and will allow you a more comfortable place to sleep in. Take some time to find a nice, flat area before building your tarp shelter.\\n1-2. Look above for dead branches.\\nOnce you've found a nice place on the ground for your shelter, you will want to look above it. Dead branches can pose a serious hazard to campers if they are knocked down by wind. Always avoid placing your shelter under any branches that look old, dead, or dangerous to avoid having one fall on you.\\n1-3. Look for trees you can use.\\nMany tarp shelter designs require you to place a sturdy cord or rope between two trees. This cord will act as the ridge-line for your tarp shelter. It's a good idea to look for a flat spot that has two trees for you to place this cord between.\\nIf you can't find two trees, you could try placing two anchor branches in the ground instead.\\nThese trees should be roughly as far apart as your tarp is long.\\n1-4. Consider the weather.\\nAlthough it may be sunny and dry when you set your tarp shelter up, the weather may change during your camping trip. It's important to consider what the weather might do in the near future, allowing you to stay comfortable and avoid any damage to your tarp shelter.\\nFigure out which way the winds are blowing. Any “wall” of your tarp shelter should face away from the wind.\\nAvoid putting your shelter in any areas that are low or seem like they could flood during rain storms.\\n2. Making an A-Frame Shelter\\n2-1. Create the ridge-line.\\nThe ridge-line will support the top section of your tarp shelter. This line is created by stringing a length of cord between two trees. This gives your tarp an elevated point of support and will form the shape of the a-frame tarp shelter. Place the ridge-line using these steps:\\nTie one section of the rope to a tree. Place it as high up the tree trunk as you would like the roof of your tarp shelter to be.\\nBring the other end over to the adjacent tree and tie it at the same level.\\nMake sure the cord is as tight as it can be to ensure a strong ridge-line.\\n2-2. Lay the tarp over the rope.\\nOnce your ridge-line has been created, you can lay the tarp over top of it. For an a-frame tarp shelter, place the tarp over the ridge-line in the center of the tarp. This will leave equal halves of the tarp hanging down from the ridge-line.\\nMake sure the tarp is equally hanging from both sides of the ridge-line to avoid problems.\\n2-3. Anchor the tarp to the ground.\\nAfter you've placed the tarp over the ridge-line, you can fasten it to the ground. Take one of the bottom sections of tarp and pull it outwards, away from the center of the tent. Once you've gotten it to a place that you like, secure it to the ground by taking these steps:\\nPlace a tent stake into the ground, near to the point the tarps corner while it is stretched out.\\nTie a length of cord between the tent stake and the corner of the tarp.\\nMake sure this cord is tight and holds the tarp securely to the ground.\\nDo the same thing for each of the other three corners of your a-frame tarp shelter.\\n3. Making a Lean-to Shelter\\n3-1. Find a good spot for the cord.\\nThe lean-to tarp shelter makes use of a ridge-line. This ridge-line is created by tying a length of rope tightly between two trees or other points of support. This will create a point that you can secure your tarp to and finish your shelter.\\nFind two trees that are as far apart as your tarp is long.\\nTie one end of the rope around the trunk of a tree. Tie it at the height that you want the top of your shelter to be at.\\nTie the other end of the rope at the same level on the opposite tree.\\nIt's very important that the ridge-line is as tight as it can be.\\n3-2. Fix one edge of the tarp to the cord.\\nThe lean-to tarp shelter requires you to fix one edge of your tarp to your ridge-line. You can attach the tarp to the ridge-line using cord or rope and many tarps will come with grommets or loops built in. Make sure you attach the tarp to the ridge-line tightly to build a strong tarp shelter.\\nYour tarp may have holes pre-made along its edge. If so, you can thread the ridge-line through these for an easy way to join them together.\\nMany tarps will have loops along the corners or edges that can be used to tie them to your ridge-line.\\n3-3. Anchor the tarp to the ground.\\nOnce the top edge has been tied to the ridge-line, you can secure the bottom edge of the lean-to tarp shelter. Pull the bottom edge away from the center until it is at an angle that you want. Place anchoring stakes in the ground at the corners of the tarp and tie the tarp to them. This will hold the bottom portion of your shelter securely in place.\\nMost people recommend using a 45 degree angle for their lean-to.\\nTry adjusting the angle to raise or lower the height of the shelter's \\\"ceiling\\\".\\nTips\\nFind a flat area to build your tarp shelter.\\nWatch out for dead branches or limbs above your camp site.\\nA-frames require you to anchor down all four corners of your tarp shelter.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Camping can be a lot of fun and a great way to enjoy nature. Many people enjoy using a tent for the ease at which they can be set up. However, tents can be heavy and bulky to carry with you on a camping trip. To make your camping trip less difficult, you may want to use a tarp shelter. Tarps are lightweight and fairly easy to build a shelter with, helping to make your camping trip a comfortable one.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Finding a Good Spot\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a flat area.\", \"描述\": \"The best areas for building a tarp shelter are places that have flat ground. This can make creating the shelter a bit easier and will allow you a more comfortable place to sleep in. Take some time to find a nice, flat area before building your tarp shelter.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Look above for dead branches.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've found a nice place on the ground for your shelter, you will want to look above it. Dead branches can pose a serious hazard to campers if they are knocked down by wind. Always avoid placing your shelter under any branches that look old, dead, or dangerous to avoid having one fall on you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look for trees you can use.\", \"描述\": \"Many tarp shelter designs require you to place a sturdy cord or rope between two trees. This cord will act as the ridge-line for your tarp shelter. It's a good idea to look for a flat spot that has two trees for you to place this cord between.\\nIf you can't find two trees, you could try placing two anchor branches in the ground instead.\\nThese trees should be roughly as far apart as your tarp is long.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider the weather.\", \"描述\": \"Although it may be sunny and dry when you set your tarp shelter up, the weather may change during your camping trip. It's important to consider what the weather might do in the near future, allowing you to stay comfortable and avoid any damage to your tarp shelter.\\nFigure out which way the winds are blowing. Any “wall” of your tarp shelter should face away from the wind.\\nAvoid putting your shelter in any areas that are low or seem like they could flood during rain storms.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making an A-Frame Shelter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create the ridge-line.\", \"描述\": \"The ridge-line will support the top section of your tarp shelter. This line is created by stringing a length of cord between two trees. This gives your tarp an elevated point of support and will form the shape of the a-frame tarp shelter. Place the ridge-line using these steps:\\nTie one section of the rope to a tree. Place it as high up the tree trunk as you would like the roof of your tarp shelter to be.\\nBring the other end over to the adjacent tree and tie it at the same level.\\nMake sure the cord is as tight as it can be to ensure a strong ridge-line.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay the tarp over the rope.\", \"描述\": \"Once your ridge-line has been created, you can lay the tarp over top of it. For an a-frame tarp shelter, place the tarp over the ridge-line in the center of the tarp. This will leave equal halves of the tarp hanging down from the ridge-line.\\nMake sure the tarp is equally hanging from both sides of the ridge-line to avoid problems.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Anchor the tarp to the ground.\", \"描述\": \"After you've placed the tarp over the ridge-line, you can fasten it to the ground. Take one of the bottom sections of tarp and pull it outwards, away from the center of the tent. Once you've gotten it to a place that you like, secure it to the ground by taking these steps:\\nPlace a tent stake into the ground, near to the point the tarps corner while it is stretched out.\\nTie a length of cord between the tent stake and the corner of the tarp.\\nMake sure this cord is tight and holds the tarp securely to the ground.\\nDo the same thing for each of the other three corners of your a-frame tarp shelter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making a Lean-to Shelter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a good spot for the cord.\", \"描述\": \"The lean-to tarp shelter makes use of a ridge-line. This ridge-line is created by tying a length of rope tightly between two trees or other points of support. This will create a point that you can secure your tarp to and finish your shelter.\\nFind two trees that are as far apart as your tarp is long.\\nTie one end of the rope around the trunk of a tree. Tie it at the height that you want the top of your shelter to be at.\\nTie the other end of the rope at the same level on the opposite tree.\\nIt's very important that the ridge-line is as tight as it can be.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fix one edge of the tarp to the cord.\", \"描述\": \"The lean-to tarp shelter requires you to fix one edge of your tarp to your ridge-line. You can attach the tarp to the ridge-line using cord or rope and many tarps will come with grommets or loops built in. Make sure you attach the tarp to the ridge-line tightly to build a strong tarp shelter.\\nYour tarp may have holes pre-made along its edge. If so, you can thread the ridge-line through these for an easy way to join them together.\\nMany tarps will have loops along the corners or edges that can be used to tie them to your ridge-line.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Anchor the tarp to the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Once the top edge has been tied to the ridge-line, you can secure the bottom edge of the lean-to tarp shelter. Pull the bottom edge away from the center until it is at an angle that you want. Place anchoring stakes in the ground at the corners of the tarp and tie the tarp to them. This will hold the bottom portion of your shelter securely in place.\\nMost people recommend using a 45 degree angle for their lean-to.\\nTry adjusting the angle to raise or lower the height of the shelter's \\\"ceiling\\\".\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Find a flat area to build your tarp shelter.\\n\", \"Watch out for dead branches or limbs above your camp site.\\n\", \"A-frames require you to anchor down all four corners of your tarp shelter.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,589 |
How to Build a Team from Scratch
|
1. Recruit
1-1. List the attributes of your ideal candidates.
A strong team has members with different strengths and weaknesses who can work together to achieve your business's goals. In addition to specific education and experience requirements for each role, list some personality attributes that your ideal candidates would have.
For example, you might want team members who have an entrepreneurial spirit and are willing to take risks. This personality type can be especially valuable in a start-up.
If you're hiring remote team members, you probably want people who are highly self-motivated and thrive in an environment with less supervision.
1-2. Look for people aligned with your mission and passions.
While skills are important, people who share your overall mission for your product or brand will be more enthusiastic team members. Posting employment listings on general online job boards is fine, but in addition, it's a good idea to reach out to groups or organizations where there are likely to be people who hold the same values you're trying to promote with your business.
For example, if you're producing organic vegan nutrition drinks, you might recruit team members at a local co-op or with local vegan groups on social media.
Look beyond your business's mission and consider people aligned with your personal values as well. Productive, enthusiastic team members are often people who like you as a person and have things in common with you.
1-3. Bring on one team member at a time.
Think about who you need to hire first and work to get that person in place, then move on to the next person on your list. That way, you can focus all of your efforts on finding the best person for each role.
Depending on your overall structure, you might also consider getting your first team members in on the selection process. This can help you ensure that everyone works well together. It also empowers your employees if they believe they have a say in who they work with.
1-4. Include remote workers in your hiring search.
During the COVID-19 pandemic, many business owners learned that employees could be productive when working from home. Allowing for remote workers means you don't have to restrict your hiring search to locals.
With some business models, you might not think remote workers would work for you. But even if you have a brick-and-mortar retail store, you could easily have a remote team member work on your website or social media presence, for example.
2. Onboard
2-1. Host a kick-off event to stoke enthusiasm and build momentum.
Getting your entire team together, either physically or virtually, allows everyone to get to know each other and get a sense of how they're going to work together. Have fun, but also take this opportunity to reinforce your mission and outline how the team is going to work together.
If your team is local, an activity that requires working as a team is a good way to break the ice and get everyone used to working together. For example, you might go to an escape room or organize a treasure hunt around your city.
Remote teams can also participate in virtual games and puzzles that encourage team building and help your team members get to know each other.
2-2. Define your mission and core values clearly.
Make sure all of your team members understand why they're there and what you're trying to achieve with your business. Discuss the mission with your team and get input from each member on what it means to them.
Encourage each team member to define what they bring to the table and how they'll personally help the team achieve its goals.
You can have a starter curriculum for the newcomers. It can include things they need to read and the exercises they need to do to catch up with the team.
Plan the processes so that the new people have a month for onboarding and ramping up.
Let each new person have one senior person who can help them in the initial stages.
2-3. Outline the team's goals and measurements of progress.
Set goals that are specific, measurable, achievable, realistic, and timely (SMART). For each goal, establish benchmarks that will indicate progress towards the ultimate goal.
Depending on the size of your team, you might have individual team members in charge of ensuring different goals are met. Make sure each team member understands their role in achieving each goal and what you expect from them.
2-4. Assign specific responsibilities to each team member.
Lay out responsibilities transparently so every team member knows what's expected of every other team member. This encourages your team members to be mutually accountable to each other.
Depending on the size of your team, you might designate specific team leaders who are responsible for coordinating efforts toward particular goals, or you might simply be the team leader yourself.
If different parts of your team are working toward different parts of the big picture, identify specific team members who will be in charge of integrating the results when the time comes.
2-5. Set ground rules to govern how team members will work together.
Your ground rules can be as simple as "respect each other" or "share ideas with the team," but they should be specific enough that everyone can understand and follow them. Include rules for communication, both in and out of meetings, as well as guidelines for resolving conflicts.
For example, you might promote email for routine communication, then have a text or instant messaging app available for urgent messages.
2-6. Cross-train team members in several different areas.
Flexible team members can pitch in and help if there's an issue in an area that's technically outside their sphere of duties. You increase the value of your team members and empower them to do what's necessary to achieve your business's goals.
For example, if you have a content writer who's interested in web design, you might have them shadow your web designer or take a class so they can learn the basics.
Encourage your team members to share their work processes and ideas with each other so they can better understand all the different roles and how they work together.
2-7. Include a trial period after initial training.
For longer-term projects, a trial period allows you to make sure each team member is going to be a great fit. It also takes the pressure off of your team members because they have the opportunity to back out if they have second thoughts.
Another idea is to start team members out as contractors, then hire them on as full employees after that. It gives you a chance to audition them and see how they work with other members of the team.
3. Lead
3-1. Create opportunities for team members to learn and grow.
This can be as simple as buying books or access to learning websites that help your team members advance their knowledge. If there are various certifications that might help team members, you might offer to pay for the certification process.
Providing these opportunities shows your team members that you're investing in them and you want them to enhance their value while they're working for you.
3-2. Arrange fun activities to encourage camaraderie and team spirit.
Use group activities to celebrate achievements and boost morale when you're facing challenges. Even something as simple as a picnic and hiking in a park can help bring your team closer together.
You can also use these activities as rewards for reaching milestones or achieving various goals. It shows you appreciate your team members as people and value the work they do.
3-3. Facilitate communication among team members.
Provide contact information for all of your team members so they can all reach out to each other at any time. If one team member is having a hard time communicating with another, you might meet with the two of them to help make things run more smoothly.
Provide multiple communication options to make sure all team members are able to communicate effectively. For example, some team members might be more comfortable with email while others prefer a phone call or face-to-face interaction.
3-4. Check in with remote team members daily.
Schedule daily check-ins so your remote members feel like a regular part of what you're doing. Ask about their progress and their plans for the day, then let them know what you and the rest of the team are doing. You might do one-on-ones or a single group meeting if you have multiple remote team members.
These check-ins help your remote team members establish a routine and understand what's expected of them on a daily basis. You also ensure accountability and stay abreast of developments.
Having a regular check-in on the calendar also gives your team members an opportunity to bring up any problems they're having so you can solve them in a timely fashion.
3-5. Evaluate your team members constantly and provide feedback.
Continual feedback keeps small problems from mushrooming into larger ones. It also gives you the opportunity to tell team members when they're doing a good job, which motivates them to perform at a higher level.
Immediate feedback saves time in the long run by allowing your team members to correct a mistake immediately before they repeat it multiple times.
Include regular formal evaluations in addition to continuous informal evaluation and feedback. In formal evaluations, emphasize what each team member is doing right as well as areas where they could improve.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:11",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Recruit\\n1-1. List the attributes of your ideal candidates.\\nA strong team has members with different strengths and weaknesses who can work together to achieve your business's goals. In addition to specific education and experience requirements for each role, list some personality attributes that your ideal candidates would have.\\nFor example, you might want team members who have an entrepreneurial spirit and are willing to take risks. This personality type can be especially valuable in a start-up.\\nIf you're hiring remote team members, you probably want people who are highly self-motivated and thrive in an environment with less supervision.\\n1-2. Look for people aligned with your mission and passions.\\nWhile skills are important, people who share your overall mission for your product or brand will be more enthusiastic team members. Posting employment listings on general online job boards is fine, but in addition, it's a good idea to reach out to groups or organizations where there are likely to be people who hold the same values you're trying to promote with your business.\\nFor example, if you're producing organic vegan nutrition drinks, you might recruit team members at a local co-op or with local vegan groups on social media.\\nLook beyond your business's mission and consider people aligned with your personal values as well. Productive, enthusiastic team members are often people who like you as a person and have things in common with you.\\n1-3. Bring on one team member at a time.\\nThink about who you need to hire first and work to get that person in place, then move on to the next person on your list. That way, you can focus all of your efforts on finding the best person for each role.\\nDepending on your overall structure, you might also consider getting your first team members in on the selection process. This can help you ensure that everyone works well together. It also empowers your employees if they believe they have a say in who they work with.\\n1-4. Include remote workers in your hiring search.\\nDuring the COVID-19 pandemic, many business owners learned that employees could be productive when working from home. Allowing for remote workers means you don't have to restrict your hiring search to locals.\\nWith some business models, you might not think remote workers would work for you. But even if you have a brick-and-mortar retail store, you could easily have a remote team member work on your website or social media presence, for example.\\n2. Onboard\\n2-1. Host a kick-off event to stoke enthusiasm and build momentum.\\nGetting your entire team together, either physically or virtually, allows everyone to get to know each other and get a sense of how they're going to work together. Have fun, but also take this opportunity to reinforce your mission and outline how the team is going to work together.\\nIf your team is local, an activity that requires working as a team is a good way to break the ice and get everyone used to working together. For example, you might go to an escape room or organize a treasure hunt around your city.\\nRemote teams can also participate in virtual games and puzzles that encourage team building and help your team members get to know each other.\\n2-2. Define your mission and core values clearly.\\nMake sure all of your team members understand why they're there and what you're trying to achieve with your business. Discuss the mission with your team and get input from each member on what it means to them.\\nEncourage each team member to define what they bring to the table and how they'll personally help the team achieve its goals.\\nYou can have a starter curriculum for the newcomers. It can include things they need to read and the exercises they need to do to catch up with the team.\\nPlan the processes so that the new people have a month for onboarding and ramping up. \\nLet each new person have one senior person who can help them in the initial stages.\\n2-3. Outline the team's goals and measurements of progress.\\nSet goals that are specific, measurable, achievable, realistic, and timely (SMART). For each goal, establish benchmarks that will indicate progress towards the ultimate goal.\\nDepending on the size of your team, you might have individual team members in charge of ensuring different goals are met. Make sure each team member understands their role in achieving each goal and what you expect from them.\\n2-4. Assign specific responsibilities to each team member.\\nLay out responsibilities transparently so every team member knows what's expected of every other team member. This encourages your team members to be mutually accountable to each other.\\nDepending on the size of your team, you might designate specific team leaders who are responsible for coordinating efforts toward particular goals, or you might simply be the team leader yourself.\\nIf different parts of your team are working toward different parts of the big picture, identify specific team members who will be in charge of integrating the results when the time comes.\\n2-5. Set ground rules to govern how team members will work together.\\nYour ground rules can be as simple as \\\"respect each other\\\" or \\\"share ideas with the team,\\\" but they should be specific enough that everyone can understand and follow them. Include rules for communication, both in and out of meetings, as well as guidelines for resolving conflicts.\\nFor example, you might promote email for routine communication, then have a text or instant messaging app available for urgent messages.\\n2-6. Cross-train team members in several different areas.\\nFlexible team members can pitch in and help if there's an issue in an area that's technically outside their sphere of duties. You increase the value of your team members and empower them to do what's necessary to achieve your business's goals.\\nFor example, if you have a content writer who's interested in web design, you might have them shadow your web designer or take a class so they can learn the basics.\\nEncourage your team members to share their work processes and ideas with each other so they can better understand all the different roles and how they work together.\\n2-7. Include a trial period after initial training.\\nFor longer-term projects, a trial period allows you to make sure each team member is going to be a great fit. It also takes the pressure off of your team members because they have the opportunity to back out if they have second thoughts.\\nAnother idea is to start team members out as contractors, then hire them on as full employees after that. It gives you a chance to audition them and see how they work with other members of the team.\\n3. Lead\\n3-1. Create opportunities for team members to learn and grow.\\nThis can be as simple as buying books or access to learning websites that help your team members advance their knowledge. If there are various certifications that might help team members, you might offer to pay for the certification process.\\nProviding these opportunities shows your team members that you're investing in them and you want them to enhance their value while they're working for you.\\n3-2. Arrange fun activities to encourage camaraderie and team spirit.\\nUse group activities to celebrate achievements and boost morale when you're facing challenges. Even something as simple as a picnic and hiking in a park can help bring your team closer together.\\nYou can also use these activities as rewards for reaching milestones or achieving various goals. It shows you appreciate your team members as people and value the work they do.\\n3-3. Facilitate communication among team members.\\nProvide contact information for all of your team members so they can all reach out to each other at any time. If one team member is having a hard time communicating with another, you might meet with the two of them to help make things run more smoothly.\\nProvide multiple communication options to make sure all team members are able to communicate effectively. For example, some team members might be more comfortable with email while others prefer a phone call or face-to-face interaction.\\n3-4. Check in with remote team members daily.\\nSchedule daily check-ins so your remote members feel like a regular part of what you're doing. Ask about their progress and their plans for the day, then let them know what you and the rest of the team are doing. You might do one-on-ones or a single group meeting if you have multiple remote team members.\\nThese check-ins help your remote team members establish a routine and understand what's expected of them on a daily basis. You also ensure accountability and stay abreast of developments.\\nHaving a regular check-in on the calendar also gives your team members an opportunity to bring up any problems they're having so you can solve them in a timely fashion.\\n3-5. Evaluate your team members constantly and provide feedback.\\nContinual feedback keeps small problems from mushrooming into larger ones. It also gives you the opportunity to tell team members when they're doing a good job, which motivates them to perform at a higher level.\\nImmediate feedback saves time in the long run by allowing your team members to correct a mistake immediately before they repeat it multiple times.\\nInclude regular formal evaluations in addition to continuous informal evaluation and feedback. In formal evaluations, emphasize what each team member is doing right as well as areas where they could improve.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you're launching a start-up or expanding an existing small business, building a cohesive team of employees who will work together to advance your vision is crucial to your ultimate success. It can be challenging to start from zero, but use it to your advantage! You have the opportunity to pull together an amazing group of people who will work together from day one to help your business take off.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Recruit\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"List the attributes of your ideal candidates.\", \"描述\": \"A strong team has members with different strengths and weaknesses who can work together to achieve your business's goals. In addition to specific education and experience requirements for each role, list some personality attributes that your ideal candidates would have.\\nFor example, you might want team members who have an entrepreneurial spirit and are willing to take risks. This personality type can be especially valuable in a start-up.\\nIf you're hiring remote team members, you probably want people who are highly self-motivated and thrive in an environment with less supervision.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Look for people aligned with your mission and passions.\", \"描述\": \"While skills are important, people who share your overall mission for your product or brand will be more enthusiastic team members. Posting employment listings on general online job boards is fine, but in addition, it's a good idea to reach out to groups or organizations where there are likely to be people who hold the same values you're trying to promote with your business.\\nFor example, if you're producing organic vegan nutrition drinks, you might recruit team members at a local co-op or with local vegan groups on social media.\\nLook beyond your business's mission and consider people aligned with your personal values as well. Productive, enthusiastic team members are often people who like you as a person and have things in common with you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Bring on one team member at a time.\", \"描述\": \"Think about who you need to hire first and work to get that person in place, then move on to the next person on your list. That way, you can focus all of your efforts on finding the best person for each role.\\nDepending on your overall structure, you might also consider getting your first team members in on the selection process. This can help you ensure that everyone works well together. It also empowers your employees if they believe they have a say in who they work with.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Include remote workers in your hiring search.\", \"描述\": \"During the COVID-19 pandemic, many business owners learned that employees could be productive when working from home. Allowing for remote workers means you don't have to restrict your hiring search to locals.\\nWith some business models, you might not think remote workers would work for you. But even if you have a brick-and-mortar retail store, you could easily have a remote team member work on your website or social media presence, for example.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Onboard\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Host a kick-off event to stoke enthusiasm and build momentum.\", \"描述\": \"Getting your entire team together, either physically or virtually, allows everyone to get to know each other and get a sense of how they're going to work together. Have fun, but also take this opportunity to reinforce your mission and outline how the team is going to work together.\\nIf your team is local, an activity that requires working as a team is a good way to break the ice and get everyone used to working together. For example, you might go to an escape room or organize a treasure hunt around your city.\\nRemote teams can also participate in virtual games and puzzles that encourage team building and help your team members get to know each other.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Define your mission and core values clearly.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure all of your team members understand why they're there and what you're trying to achieve with your business. Discuss the mission with your team and get input from each member on what it means to them.\\nEncourage each team member to define what they bring to the table and how they'll personally help the team achieve its goals.\\nYou can have a starter curriculum for the newcomers. It can include things they need to read and the exercises they need to do to catch up with the team.\\nPlan the processes so that the new people have a month for onboarding and ramping up. \\nLet each new person have one senior person who can help them in the initial stages.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Outline the team's goals and measurements of progress.\", \"描述\": \"Set goals that are specific, measurable, achievable, realistic, and timely (SMART). For each goal, establish benchmarks that will indicate progress towards the ultimate goal.\\nDepending on the size of your team, you might have individual team members in charge of ensuring different goals are met. Make sure each team member understands their role in achieving each goal and what you expect from them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Assign specific responsibilities to each team member.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out responsibilities transparently so every team member knows what's expected of every other team member. This encourages your team members to be mutually accountable to each other.\\nDepending on the size of your team, you might designate specific team leaders who are responsible for coordinating efforts toward particular goals, or you might simply be the team leader yourself.\\nIf different parts of your team are working toward different parts of the big picture, identify specific team members who will be in charge of integrating the results when the time comes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Set ground rules to govern how team members will work together.\", \"描述\": \"Your ground rules can be as simple as \\\"respect each other\\\" or \\\"share ideas with the team,\\\" but they should be specific enough that everyone can understand and follow them. Include rules for communication, both in and out of meetings, as well as guidelines for resolving conflicts.\\nFor example, you might promote email for routine communication, then have a text or instant messaging app available for urgent messages.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cross-train team members in several different areas.\", \"描述\": \"Flexible team members can pitch in and help if there's an issue in an area that's technically outside their sphere of duties. You increase the value of your team members and empower them to do what's necessary to achieve your business's goals.\\nFor example, if you have a content writer who's interested in web design, you might have them shadow your web designer or take a class so they can learn the basics.\\nEncourage your team members to share their work processes and ideas with each other so they can better understand all the different roles and how they work together.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Include a trial period after initial training.\", \"描述\": \"For longer-term projects, a trial period allows you to make sure each team member is going to be a great fit. It also takes the pressure off of your team members because they have the opportunity to back out if they have second thoughts.\\nAnother idea is to start team members out as contractors, then hire them on as full employees after that. It gives you a chance to audition them and see how they work with other members of the team.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lead\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create opportunities for team members to learn and grow.\", \"描述\": \"This can be as simple as buying books or access to learning websites that help your team members advance their knowledge. If there are various certifications that might help team members, you might offer to pay for the certification process.\\nProviding these opportunities shows your team members that you're investing in them and you want them to enhance their value while they're working for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Arrange fun activities to encourage camaraderie and team spirit.\", \"描述\": \"Use group activities to celebrate achievements and boost morale when you're facing challenges. Even something as simple as a picnic and hiking in a park can help bring your team closer together.\\nYou can also use these activities as rewards for reaching milestones or achieving various goals. It shows you appreciate your team members as people and value the work they do.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Facilitate communication among team members.\", \"描述\": \"Provide contact information for all of your team members so they can all reach out to each other at any time. If one team member is having a hard time communicating with another, you might meet with the two of them to help make things run more smoothly.\\nProvide multiple communication options to make sure all team members are able to communicate effectively. For example, some team members might be more comfortable with email while others prefer a phone call or face-to-face interaction.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Check in with remote team members daily.\", \"描述\": \"Schedule daily check-ins so your remote members feel like a regular part of what you're doing. Ask about their progress and their plans for the day, then let them know what you and the rest of the team are doing. You might do one-on-ones or a single group meeting if you have multiple remote team members.\\nThese check-ins help your remote team members establish a routine and understand what's expected of them on a daily basis. You also ensure accountability and stay abreast of developments.\\nHaving a regular check-in on the calendar also gives your team members an opportunity to bring up any problems they're having so you can solve them in a timely fashion.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Evaluate your team members constantly and provide feedback.\", \"描述\": \"Continual feedback keeps small problems from mushrooming into larger ones. It also gives you the opportunity to tell team members when they're doing a good job, which motivates them to perform at a higher level.\\nImmediate feedback saves time in the long run by allowing your team members to correct a mistake immediately before they repeat it multiple times.\\nInclude regular formal evaluations in addition to continuous informal evaluation and feedback. In formal evaluations, emphasize what each team member is doing right as well as areas where they could improve.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,590 |
How to Build a Teepee Camp Fire
|
1. Prepare for the Campfire
1-1. Select the area to build the camp fire in.
Criteria include: No low overhanging tree branches, these could catch fire if the flames leap, and is the Campfire far enough from the tents so that the tents won’t melt
1-2. Prepare the area:
Clear the area of debris and other flammable material.
Ring the Campfire area with rocks and dig a depression into the ground to help contain the fire and shelter it from wind
Pile the excess dirt near the fire and Have a bucket of water nearby to be used to put out the fire.
1-3. Gather firewood.
In order to begin building the Campfire, material must be gathered that will be burned in the Campfire.
The Camping Guide from LoveTheOutdoors.com classifies the three types of wood that will be needed to build a successful campfire:
tinder,
kindling,
fuel.
Use material that is already on the ground and is dry, using fresh cut or wet wood will make the fire smokier and is more difficult to catch fire. Pile the firewood a couple yards away from the fire so that it doesn’t catch fire
2. Build the Fire
2-1. Build the teepee camp fire.
Now the Campfire is ready to be built. The key to a successful Campfire is layers.
Place your campfire Tepee from campfiretepee.com in your fire pit.
Loosely place lots of tinder around the middle of the Campfire tepee.
Place a little kindling around the tinder.
Lean 3 pieces of fuel wood against your campfire tepee, one at 12 o clock, one at 4 o clock, and one at 8 o clock.
2-2. Light the fire.
Light the tinder first, and keep feeding the fire tinder until the kindling catches fire.
Once the kindling catches fire, continue feeding the fire kindling until the fuel catches fire.
Once the fuel catches fire, continue feeding the fire fuel wood until it is time to put the fire out.
2-3. Put out the fire.
First deconstruct it by removing the embers from each other with a stick. Then douse the fire with water, and stir the ashes with a stick. Continue dousing and stirring until the fire is out. Finally cover the stirred ashes with dirt.
Warnings
Never leave a Campfire unattended!
Make sure no branches are hanging closely over the fire.
Make sure the fire is at least 10 feet (3.0 m) away from tents.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:11",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Prepare for the Campfire\\n1-1. Select the area to build the camp fire in.\\nCriteria include: No low overhanging tree branches, these could catch fire if the flames leap, and is the Campfire far enough from the tents so that the tents won’t melt\\n1-2. Prepare the area:\\nClear the area of debris and other flammable material.\\nRing the Campfire area with rocks and dig a depression into the ground to help contain the fire and shelter it from wind\\nPile the excess dirt near the fire and Have a bucket of water nearby to be used to put out the fire.\\n1-3. Gather firewood.\\nIn order to begin building the Campfire, material must be gathered that will be burned in the Campfire.\\nThe Camping Guide from LoveTheOutdoors.com classifies the three types of wood that will be needed to build a successful campfire:\\ntinder,\\nkindling,\\nfuel.\\n\\nUse material that is already on the ground and is dry, using fresh cut or wet wood will make the fire smokier and is more difficult to catch fire. Pile the firewood a couple yards away from the fire so that it doesn’t catch fire\\n2. Build the Fire\\n2-1. Build the teepee camp fire.\\nNow the Campfire is ready to be built. The key to a successful Campfire is layers.\\nPlace your campfire Tepee from campfiretepee.com in your fire pit.\\nLoosely place lots of tinder around the middle of the Campfire tepee.\\nPlace a little kindling around the tinder.\\nLean 3 pieces of fuel wood against your campfire tepee, one at 12 o clock, one at 4 o clock, and one at 8 o clock.\\n2-2. Light the fire.\\nLight the tinder first, and keep feeding the fire tinder until the kindling catches fire.\\nOnce the kindling catches fire, continue feeding the fire kindling until the fuel catches fire.\\nOnce the fuel catches fire, continue feeding the fire fuel wood until it is time to put the fire out.\\n2-3. Put out the fire.\\nFirst deconstruct it by removing the embers from each other with a stick. Then douse the fire with water, and stir the ashes with a stick. Continue dousing and stirring until the fire is out. Finally cover the stirred ashes with dirt.\\nWarnings\\nNever leave a Campfire unattended!\\nMake sure no branches are hanging closely over the fire.\\nMake sure the fire is at least 10 feet (3.0 m) away from tents.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This how-to guide for construction of a proper Campfire is designed for people that are unfamiliar with building a Campfire as well as to provide a refresher for those that are experienced.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare for the Campfire\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select the area to build the camp fire in.\", \"描述\": \"Criteria include: No low overhanging tree branches, these could catch fire if the flames leap, and is the Campfire far enough from the tents so that the tents won’t melt\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare the area:\", \"描述\": \"Clear the area of debris and other flammable material.\\nRing the Campfire area with rocks and dig a depression into the ground to help contain the fire and shelter it from wind\\nPile the excess dirt near the fire and Have a bucket of water nearby to be used to put out the fire.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather firewood.\", \"描述\": \"In order to begin building the Campfire, material must be gathered that will be burned in the Campfire.\\nThe Camping Guide from LoveTheOutdoors.com classifies the three types of wood that will be needed to build a successful campfire:\\ntinder,\\nkindling,\\nfuel.\\n\\nUse material that is already on the ground and is dry, using fresh cut or wet wood will make the fire smokier and is more difficult to catch fire. Pile the firewood a couple yards away from the fire so that it doesn’t catch fire\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the Fire\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build the teepee camp fire.\", \"描述\": \"Now the Campfire is ready to be built. The key to a successful Campfire is layers.\\nPlace your campfire Tepee from campfiretepee.com in your fire pit.\\nLoosely place lots of tinder around the middle of the Campfire tepee.\\nPlace a little kindling around the tinder.\\nLean 3 pieces of fuel wood against your campfire tepee, one at 12 o clock, one at 4 o clock, and one at 8 o clock.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Light the fire.\", \"描述\": \"Light the tinder first, and keep feeding the fire tinder until the kindling catches fire.\\nOnce the kindling catches fire, continue feeding the fire kindling until the fuel catches fire.\\nOnce the fuel catches fire, continue feeding the fire fuel wood until it is time to put the fire out.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put out the fire.\", \"描述\": \"First deconstruct it by removing the embers from each other with a stick. Then douse the fire with water, and stir the ashes with a stick. Continue dousing and stirring until the fire is out. Finally cover the stirred ashes with dirt.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Never leave a Campfire unattended!\\n\", \"Make sure no branches are hanging closely over the fire.\\n\", \"Make sure the fire is at least 10 feet (3.0 m) away from tents.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,591 |
How to Build a Temporary Sundial
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1. Steps
1-1. Clear a circular area of bare ground and place a stick (gnomon) in the center.
1-2. Find which way is north.
If you place pebbles throughout a day at the point where the sun casts a shadow from the tip of the gnomon, the stones will describe a hyperbola and North is where the shadow is shortest. A more accurate way will be to find east-west first. Draw a circle centered at your vertical stick, at a radius given by a morning pebble, then wait until afternoon when the shadow just touches the circle. A line drawn between these two points will be due east-west and you can draw a line perpendicular to this to find a true north-south line.
1-3. Draw a new circle as large as you want to make your sundial, with the center where your east-west and north-south lines meet.
A good radius is about the same length as your shadow stick.
1-4. Make a mark every 15 degrees on the circle (use a pebble).
Start by dividing the arc between east and north in half, then divide each of these into three equal pieces. You should end up with 24 even spaces along the circle.
1-5. Find your approximate latitude, you can look it up online, or one way to find latitude in the northern hemisphere is to determine how far above the horizon the north star (Polaris) lies.
Polaris is at the end of the handle of the little dipper. Once you know your latitude, mark the point on the circle that corresponds to that angle (counterclockwise) from east. If your latitude is a multiple of 15 degrees, you can use one of the pebbles you have already used.
1-6. Extend a perpendicular line from the latitude stone to the north-south line
1-7. Draw an ellipse with the minor axis at this point, and the major axis where the circle intersects the east-west line.
The point where the ellipse crosses the north-south line will be 12 o'clock. The points where the ellipse crosses the east-west line will be 6 o'clock (AM to the west, PM to the east).
1-8. Extend a line straight south or north from each 15 degree mark on the circle to the ellipse and place a pebble at the intersections.
These will be your hours. Note the lines extending east-west out from the inner circle in the diagram and inward north-south from the outer circle, the intersections determine the hour points and instead of drawing an ellipse, you can just find these points.
Your sundial should look like this (this image was done in a drawing program and the 15 minute marks were added, you can simply divide each hour into 4 with three smaller pebbles):
1-9. Stand up a stick in the center of the circle.
The type of sundial you have just made is called an emblematic sundial. The exact position of the stick (gnomon) should change with the season (+/- 23.5 degrees) along the north-south line as the sun moves north and south of the equator, but this is a temporary structure so we will dispense with that for now.
1-10. Watch for a shadow to be cast, whatever number that shadow is cast on, that is your beginning to find out what time it is.
You must then correct for your longitude and the equation of time, and daylight savings time (if any).
Attached is a completed sundial with the construction lines removed and a declination line added. The mono (stick) should lie along the center of this in a position which corresponds to the time of year.
Tips
If you make the radius of your construction circle about equal to your height, you can be the shadow stick!
This presumes you are in the northern hemisphere a reasonable distance from the equator. In England 12 O'Clock is North, in Australia 12 O'Clock is South.
Since you are doing this just for fun, you can compare it to a watch to see how accurate your sundial really is! Apart from the accuracy of your construction, there are several factors which affect this.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:11",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Clear a circular area of bare ground and place a stick (gnomon) in the center.\\n\\n1-2. Find which way is north.\\nIf you place pebbles throughout a day at the point where the sun casts a shadow from the tip of the gnomon, the stones will describe a hyperbola and North is where the shadow is shortest. A more accurate way will be to find east-west first. Draw a circle centered at your vertical stick, at a radius given by a morning pebble, then wait until afternoon when the shadow just touches the circle. A line drawn between these two points will be due east-west and you can draw a line perpendicular to this to find a true north-south line.\\n1-3. Draw a new circle as large as you want to make your sundial, with the center where your east-west and north-south lines meet.\\nA good radius is about the same length as your shadow stick.\\n1-4. Make a mark every 15 degrees on the circle (use a pebble).\\nStart by dividing the arc between east and north in half, then divide each of these into three equal pieces. You should end up with 24 even spaces along the circle.\\n1-5. Find your approximate latitude, you can look it up online, or one way to find latitude in the northern hemisphere is to determine how far above the horizon the north star (Polaris) lies.\\nPolaris is at the end of the handle of the little dipper. Once you know your latitude, mark the point on the circle that corresponds to that angle (counterclockwise) from east. If your latitude is a multiple of 15 degrees, you can use one of the pebbles you have already used.\\n1-6. Extend a perpendicular line from the latitude stone to the north-south line\\n\\n\\n1-7. Draw an ellipse with the minor axis at this point, and the major axis where the circle intersects the east-west line.\\nThe point where the ellipse crosses the north-south line will be 12 o'clock. The points where the ellipse crosses the east-west line will be 6 o'clock (AM to the west, PM to the east).\\n1-8. Extend a line straight south or north from each 15 degree mark on the circle to the ellipse and place a pebble at the intersections.\\nThese will be your hours. Note the lines extending east-west out from the inner circle in the diagram and inward north-south from the outer circle, the intersections determine the hour points and instead of drawing an ellipse, you can just find these points.\\nYour sundial should look like this (this image was done in a drawing program and the 15 minute marks were added, you can simply divide each hour into 4 with three smaller pebbles):\\n1-9. Stand up a stick in the center of the circle.\\nThe type of sundial you have just made is called an emblematic sundial. The exact position of the stick (gnomon) should change with the season (+/- 23.5 degrees) along the north-south line as the sun moves north and south of the equator, but this is a temporary structure so we will dispense with that for now.\\n1-10. Watch for a shadow to be cast, whatever number that shadow is cast on, that is your beginning to find out what time it is.\\nYou must then correct for your longitude and the equation of time, and daylight savings time (if any).\\nAttached is a completed sundial with the construction lines removed and a declination line added. The mono (stick) should lie along the center of this in a position which corresponds to the time of year.\\nTips\\nIf you make the radius of your construction circle about equal to your height, you can be the shadow stick!\\nThis presumes you are in the northern hemisphere a reasonable distance from the equator. In England 12 O'Clock is North, in Australia 12 O'Clock is South.\\nSince you are doing this just for fun, you can compare it to a watch to see how accurate your sundial really is! Apart from the accuracy of your construction, there are several factors which affect this.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Have you ever wanted to know what time it was, but didn't have a watch? Instead of checking your cell phone or going inside to look at a clock try building a sundial! While these instructions are focused on a simple method for making an accurate sundial on a patch of level ground, there is no reason you cannot make it with more permanent materials and have a discussion piece in your backyard or garden.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Clear a circular area of bare ground and place a stick (gnomon) in the center.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find which way is north.\", \"描述\": \"If you place pebbles throughout a day at the point where the sun casts a shadow from the tip of the gnomon, the stones will describe a hyperbola and North is where the shadow is shortest. A more accurate way will be to find east-west first. Draw a circle centered at your vertical stick, at a radius given by a morning pebble, then wait until afternoon when the shadow just touches the circle. A line drawn between these two points will be due east-west and you can draw a line perpendicular to this to find a true north-south line.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Draw a new circle as large as you want to make your sundial, with the center where your east-west and north-south lines meet.\", \"描述\": \"A good radius is about the same length as your shadow stick.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make a mark every 15 degrees on the circle (use a pebble).\", \"描述\": \"Start by dividing the arc between east and north in half, then divide each of these into three equal pieces. You should end up with 24 even spaces along the circle.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Find your approximate latitude, you can look it up online, or one way to find latitude in the northern hemisphere is to determine how far above the horizon the north star (Polaris) lies.\", \"描述\": \"Polaris is at the end of the handle of the little dipper. Once you know your latitude, mark the point on the circle that corresponds to that angle (counterclockwise) from east. If your latitude is a multiple of 15 degrees, you can use one of the pebbles you have already used.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Extend a perpendicular line from the latitude stone to the north-south line\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Draw an ellipse with the minor axis at this point, and the major axis where the circle intersects the east-west line.\", \"描述\": \"The point where the ellipse crosses the north-south line will be 12 o'clock. The points where the ellipse crosses the east-west line will be 6 o'clock (AM to the west, PM to the east).\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Extend a line straight south or north from each 15 degree mark on the circle to the ellipse and place a pebble at the intersections.\", \"描述\": \"These will be your hours. Note the lines extending east-west out from the inner circle in the diagram and inward north-south from the outer circle, the intersections determine the hour points and instead of drawing an ellipse, you can just find these points.\\nYour sundial should look like this (this image was done in a drawing program and the 15 minute marks were added, you can simply divide each hour into 4 with three smaller pebbles):\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Stand up a stick in the center of the circle.\", \"描述\": \"The type of sundial you have just made is called an emblematic sundial. The exact position of the stick (gnomon) should change with the season (+/- 23.5 degrees) along the north-south line as the sun moves north and south of the equator, but this is a temporary structure so we will dispense with that for now.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Watch for a shadow to be cast, whatever number that shadow is cast on, that is your beginning to find out what time it is.\", \"描述\": \"You must then correct for your longitude and the equation of time, and daylight savings time (if any).\\nAttached is a completed sundial with the construction lines removed and a declination line added. The mono (stick) should lie along the center of this in a position which corresponds to the time of year.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you make the radius of your construction circle about equal to your height, you can be the shadow stick!\\n\", \"This presumes you are in the northern hemisphere a reasonable distance from the equator. In England 12 O'Clock is North, in Australia 12 O'Clock is South.\\n\", \"Since you are doing this just for fun, you can compare it to a watch to see how accurate your sundial really is! Apart from the accuracy of your construction, there are several factors which affect this.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,592 |
How to Build a Theatre Flat
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1. Broadway Flat
1-1. Cut lumber for the rails, which will form the top and bottom of the flat.
You need 2 4-foot (1.2 meter) boards from 1-by-3-inch (20 by 65 mm) or 1-by-4-inch (20 by 90 mm) of pine lumber.
1-2. Measure and cut 2 boards to form the sides of the flat, called the stiles.
The finished flat will measure 8 feet (2.4) tall.
Lumber dimensions refer to the unfinished boards, so 1-by-3-inch lumber actually measures ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) (19 mm) by 2-1/2 inches (64 mm). And, 1-by-4-inch lumber actually measures ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) (19 mm) by 3-1/2 inches (89 mm).
If you're using 1-by-3-inch lumber, the stiles should be cut to 91 inches (230 cm) (2.31 m); if using 1-by-4-inch lumber, cut the stiles to 89 inches (230 cm) (2.26 m).
1-3. Assemble the boards into a rectangle on the floor of your workspace.
Don't attach the boards to one another.
1-4. Measure and cut 3 additional boards from the same lumber.
One board will become the toggle. Place this inside the frame between the two stiles so it divides the frame into equal top and bottom sections.
Two boards will serve as corner braces. Cut these on the miter and place them between the top rail and left stile, and the bottom rail and left stile.
1-5. Cut 4 triangular pieces of plywood to serve as corner blocks.
Attach them to the 4 corners of the frame, where the rails meet the stiles, with carpenters glue and pneumatic staples.
1-6. Measure and cut 5 straps from the plywood.
Use these to attach the corner braces to the rails and stiles and to attach the left side of the toggle to the left stile. Use glue and staples.
1-7. Cut a trapezoidal piece of plywood to be the keystone.
Attach this to the right side of the toggle to the right stile with glue and staples.
1-8. Turn the frame over and cover the front with muslin or canvas.
Lay the cloth over the frame and staple it into place along the insides of the rails and stiles.
1-9. Fold the edges of the cloth back so the rails and stiles are exposed.
Paint the boards with thinned carpenter's glue and smooth the edges back do wn.
1-10. Go over the edges with a damp sponge, let the glue dry, then trim the cloth.
1-11. Cover the cloth with a coat of paint to size it.
It will stiffen and shrink slightly, becoming taut.
2. Hollywood Flat
2-1. Cut lumber for a frame.
Cut 1-by-2-inch (20 by 45 mm) or 1-by-3-inch (20 by 65 mm) pine lumber to create a frame that is 4 feet (1.2 meters) wide and 8 feet (2.4) meters tall. Cut a toggle as well.
2-2. Assemble the frame by nailing the boards together.
2-3. Cover the front with 1/4-inch (6 mm) or 1/8-inch (3 mm) lauan—a thin tropical plywood with a smooth surface that's easy to paint.
Tips
Both types of flats can be "skinned" on both sides so they can be turned around to form the backdrop of another scene. However, to make a Broadway flat two-sided, you first skin the front side, then remove the plywood corner blocks, straps, and keystone before skinning the back side. If you plan to make a Broadway flat two-sided, use a method of fastening the blocks, straps, and keystone that will allow them to be easily removed.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:11",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Broadway Flat\\n1-1. Cut lumber for the rails, which will form the top and bottom of the flat.\\nYou need 2 4-foot (1.2 meter) boards from 1-by-3-inch (20 by 65 mm) or 1-by-4-inch (20 by 90 mm) of pine lumber.\\n1-2. Measure and cut 2 boards to form the sides of the flat, called the stiles.\\nThe finished flat will measure 8 feet (2.4) tall.\\nLumber dimensions refer to the unfinished boards, so 1-by-3-inch lumber actually measures ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) (19 mm) by 2-1/2 inches (64 mm). And, 1-by-4-inch lumber actually measures ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) (19 mm) by 3-1/2 inches (89 mm).\\nIf you're using 1-by-3-inch lumber, the stiles should be cut to 91 inches (230 cm) (2.31 m); if using 1-by-4-inch lumber, cut the stiles to 89 inches (230 cm) (2.26 m).\\n1-3. Assemble the boards into a rectangle on the floor of your workspace.\\nDon't attach the boards to one another.\\n1-4. Measure and cut 3 additional boards from the same lumber.\\nOne board will become the toggle. Place this inside the frame between the two stiles so it divides the frame into equal top and bottom sections.\\nTwo boards will serve as corner braces. Cut these on the miter and place them between the top rail and left stile, and the bottom rail and left stile.\\n1-5. Cut 4 triangular pieces of plywood to serve as corner blocks.\\nAttach them to the 4 corners of the frame, where the rails meet the stiles, with carpenters glue and pneumatic staples.\\n1-6. Measure and cut 5 straps from the plywood.\\nUse these to attach the corner braces to the rails and stiles and to attach the left side of the toggle to the left stile. Use glue and staples.\\n1-7. Cut a trapezoidal piece of plywood to be the keystone.\\nAttach this to the right side of the toggle to the right stile with glue and staples.\\n1-8. Turn the frame over and cover the front with muslin or canvas.\\nLay the cloth over the frame and staple it into place along the insides of the rails and stiles.\\n1-9. Fold the edges of the cloth back so the rails and stiles are exposed.\\nPaint the boards with thinned carpenter's glue and smooth the edges back do wn.\\n1-10. Go over the edges with a damp sponge, let the glue dry, then trim the cloth.\\n\\n1-11. Cover the cloth with a coat of paint to size it.\\nIt will stiffen and shrink slightly, becoming taut.\\n2. Hollywood Flat\\n2-1. Cut lumber for a frame.\\nCut 1-by-2-inch (20 by 45 mm) or 1-by-3-inch (20 by 65 mm) pine lumber to create a frame that is 4 feet (1.2 meters) wide and 8 feet (2.4) meters tall. Cut a toggle as well.\\n2-2. Assemble the frame by nailing the boards together.\\n\\n2-3. Cover the front with 1/4-inch (6 mm) or 1/8-inch (3 mm) lauan—a thin tropical plywood with a smooth surface that's easy to paint.\\n\\nTips\\nBoth types of flats can be \\\"skinned\\\" on both sides so they can be turned around to form the backdrop of another scene. However, to make a Broadway flat two-sided, you first skin the front side, then remove the plywood corner blocks, straps, and keystone before skinning the back side. If you plan to make a Broadway flat two-sided, use a method of fastening the blocks, straps, and keystone that will allow them to be easily removed.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Theatre flats, or scenery flats, are placed at the back and sides of a stage and painted to provide a background for the performance. Flats come in two styles. A Broadway flat is made by stretching canvass over a frame to create a one-dimensional background. A Hollywood flat is made by turning the boards on their edges to make a three-dimensional, box-like frame. Each type is uniform in size and design so they can be stacked together and stored in a small space. You can build theatre flats from lumber, plywood, and cloth.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Broadway Flat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut lumber for the rails, which will form the top and bottom of the flat.\", \"描述\": \"You need 2 4-foot (1.2 meter) boards from 1-by-3-inch (20 by 65 mm) or 1-by-4-inch (20 by 90 mm) of pine lumber.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut 2 boards to form the sides of the flat, called the stiles.\", \"描述\": \"The finished flat will measure 8 feet (2.4) tall.\\nLumber dimensions refer to the unfinished boards, so 1-by-3-inch lumber actually measures ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) (19 mm) by 2-1/2 inches (64 mm). And, 1-by-4-inch lumber actually measures ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) (19 mm) by 3-1/2 inches (89 mm).\\nIf you're using 1-by-3-inch lumber, the stiles should be cut to 91 inches (230 cm) (2.31 m); if using 1-by-4-inch lumber, cut the stiles to 89 inches (230 cm) (2.26 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assemble the boards into a rectangle on the floor of your workspace.\", \"描述\": \"Don't attach the boards to one another.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut 3 additional boards from the same lumber.\", \"描述\": \"One board will become the toggle. Place this inside the frame between the two stiles so it divides the frame into equal top and bottom sections.\\nTwo boards will serve as corner braces. Cut these on the miter and place them between the top rail and left stile, and the bottom rail and left stile.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut 4 triangular pieces of plywood to serve as corner blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Attach them to the 4 corners of the frame, where the rails meet the stiles, with carpenters glue and pneumatic staples.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut 5 straps from the plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Use these to attach the corner braces to the rails and stiles and to attach the left side of the toggle to the left stile. Use glue and staples.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut a trapezoidal piece of plywood to be the keystone.\", \"描述\": \"Attach this to the right side of the toggle to the right stile with glue and staples.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Turn the frame over and cover the front with muslin or canvas.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the cloth over the frame and staple it into place along the insides of the rails and stiles.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Fold the edges of the cloth back so the rails and stiles are exposed.\", \"描述\": \"Paint the boards with thinned carpenter's glue and smooth the edges back do wn.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Go over the edges with a damp sponge, let the glue dry, then trim the cloth.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Cover the cloth with a coat of paint to size it.\", \"描述\": \"It will stiffen and shrink slightly, becoming taut.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hollywood Flat\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut lumber for a frame.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 1-by-2-inch (20 by 45 mm) or 1-by-3-inch (20 by 65 mm) pine lumber to create a frame that is 4 feet (1.2 meters) wide and 8 feet (2.4) meters tall. Cut a toggle as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assemble the frame by nailing the boards together.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover the front with 1/4-inch (6 mm) or 1/8-inch (3 mm) lauan—a thin tropical plywood with a smooth surface that's easy to paint.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Both types of flats can be \\\"skinned\\\" on both sides so they can be turned around to form the backdrop of another scene. However, to make a Broadway flat two-sided, you first skin the front side, then remove the plywood corner blocks, straps, and keystone before skinning the back side. If you plan to make a Broadway flat two-sided, use a method of fastening the blocks, straps, and keystone that will allow them to be easily removed.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,593 |
How to Build a Throne on Minecraft
|
1. Crafting the Necessary Tools
1-1. Make a Crafting Table.
To make some of the materials for your throne, you first need a crafting table. If you don't have one yet, open your inventory and place four Wood Planks on all the slots of the 2x2 crafting grid. Your Crafting Table will appear in the result slot next to the grid. Place it on the ground by right-clicking or pressing the Left Trigger button on your controller. You can then pull up the Crafting menu by facing the table and right-clicking or pressing the X button.
1-2. Make a Furnace.
You will need a Furnace to create Bricks. If you don't have a Furnace yet, create one by laying out Cobblestone on the Crafting Table using this pattern:
s = stone X = empty space s s s s X s s s s
1-3. Make a Pickaxe.
The Pickaxe will be used to mine the various stones you might need for your throne. If you don't have a pickaxe yet, make one in your inventory crafting grid with three blocks of wood, stone, metal or diamond, and two sticks like so:
m = material s = stick X = empty space m m m X s X X s X
To use, equip the pickaxe by pressing the number corresponding to your pickaxe in your hotbar (PC) or by pressing the Right and Left Bumper buttons (Xbox). Once selected, you can either left-click or press the Right Trigger button on your desired patch of stone to mine it.
2. Gathering Materials
2-1. Decide the materials to use on the throne.
A throne is supposed to be proof of your greatness, so first you must decide on what material to use. First, you'll be needing two blocks, four stairs, two fences or walls, and a slab. You can create the stairs and slabs using any type of Wood Planks, Bricks, Cobblestone, both types of Sandstone, Stone Bricks, Quartz Blocks, and Nether Brick. While the latter two are late-game acquisitions, the rest can be easily gathered and crafted early on in the game. You can create the walls using Cobblestone and the fences with Wood or Nether Brick. You'll also be needing sticks if you decide to make a wooden fence.
The next few steps will explain how to get the different materials you might want to make your throne out of; it is not necessary to gather each and every kind, just select one or two, or even three, that you want to use on your throne.
2-2. Get Wood and Cobblestone.
Wood and Cobblestone are the easiest to acquire, since they are the most abundant of the resources. You can immediately gather wood from nearby trees by left-clicking or pressing the Right Trigger button. Stone can be mined for cobblestone and is usually found by digging into the dirt or exposed on cliffs and hills, and can easily be mined with a pickaxe.
2-3. Gather Sandstone.
Sandstone can be found while digging in the Desert or Beach, and Red Sandstone can be found in Mesas; both can be mined with a pickaxe.
Alternately, you can make these blocks by gathering Sand or Red Sand found in the same areas Sandstone generates in, and filling all four slots of your inventory's 2x2 crafting grid with the Sand blocks.
Stone Bricks can be created in the same method as Sandstone blocks; simply pull out your inventory and lay Cobblestone in all four slots of the crafting grid.
2-4. Create Bricks.
Bricks can be made by gathering Clay, which are smooth, soft grayish blocks found underwater, and smelting them with a furnace.
Open the furnace by pressing the right mouse button or the X button. Place Clay on the top slot of the furnace, and then place a piece of fuel (flammable materials such as wood, planks, coal, saplings, or even a bucket of lava) on the bottom slot. Then simply wait for the item to be smelted on the result slot to the right. Do note that you might need to replenish your fuel often before you get enough Bricks. You can tell how much fuel there is left by looking at the fire symbol between the fuel and item slot. When it's fully red-orange, you have plenty of fuel left; the duller the color is, the less fuel remains, and it would need to be replenished.
You can then make Brick Blocks the same method as Sandstone—place the individual bricks on all the four slots of the inventory crafting grid and take the ensuing Brick Block.
2-5. Gather Quartz blocks and Nether Bricks.
Quartz blocks and Nether Brick are near-endgame items found in the Nether, which you can access through a Nether portal. You'll need an Obsidian and a Diamond pickaxe to even make the portal, which makes these two materials inaccessible for early players in Survival mode. You can gather Netherrack by hand to make bricks, and Quartz must be mined from Netherrack with larger white discolorations, which yields you small Quartz pieces.
Quartz blocks can be created with the same method as Sandstone, and you can smelt Netherrack to make Bricks, which act much like regular bricks of a different color.
3. Crafting the Throne Parts
3-1. Create the stairs and slabs.
First gather 9 blocks of your preferred material.
For your stairs, lay out the blocks in an ascending order on your crafting table's menu: m = material X = empty space m X Xm m Xm m morX X mX m mm m m
To make the slab, simply lay out three blocks of your chosen material in one of the rows in the crafting menu: X X Xm m mX X Xorm m mX X XX X XorX X XX X Xm m m
The crafting recipe for stairs yields 4 stairs, while the crafting recipe for slabs yield 6 slabs.
3-2. Craft wooden fences.
In the PC edition, you need 2 sticks and four wood planks, while for Xbox 360, you only needs 6 sticks. You then lay them out like this: s = stick p = plankX = empty space
PC X X X p s p p s p
Xbox 360 X X X s s s s s s
This will yield you 4 wooden fences.
3-3. Make walls and Nether Brick fences.
Take 6 blocks of Cobblestone or Nether Brick then lay it out:
m = material X = empty space X X X m m m m m m
This will yield you 6 walls or Nether Brick fences.
4. Constructing the Throne
4-1. Select an area to place your throne.
You can place your throne practically anywhere you want, but it's preferred to have it inside whatever castle or building you made, or in the middle of a village. Whatever the case, a throne is your proof of superiority over the world of Minecraft, so feel free to build it wherever you want to.
4-2. Lay down a slab in the area you selected.
On the PC, you can do this by pressing the number corresponding to the item in your hotbar, which can be located on the bottom of your screen, or using the mouse scroll button to select your item, then right-clicking on the area. On the Xbox, you can select your items by pressing the Right and Left Bumper buttons, and then placing it by pressing the Left Trigger button.
4-3. Put two stairs on the opposite sides of the slab.
They should be facing away from each other so that the back side of the stairs is connected to the slab. From the top, it should look like this:
S = slab st = stair B = block f = fence/wall X = empty space st S st
4-4. Add two more stairs to connect them.
Do this by placing a block on one of the free sides of the slab, and then attaching the other two stairs to it so that they connect to the first pair of stairs. It should look something like this:
st B st st S st
The end result would have the three sides of the slab surrounded, leaving one space open, and will already vaguely resemble a chair.
4-5. Place the second block on top of the first block.
This will give the chair a high back. It should look like this from the front:
X B Xst S st
4-6. Place a fence or a wall on each side of the block.
Do this right on top of where the back pair of stairs are to give it a wider and fancier back. This is what it should look like from the front and top:
front: f B f st S st top (bottom layer) st B st st S st top (top layer) f B f X X X
There you have it! A nice simple throne! Now relax and gaze upon your subjects on top of your throne!
Tips
You don't have to use the same materials for the entire thing. You can mix and match the blocks and items, and create your own colorful throne!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:12",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Crafting the Necessary Tools\\n1-1. Make a Crafting Table.\\nTo make some of the materials for your throne, you first need a crafting table. If you don't have one yet, open your inventory and place four Wood Planks on all the slots of the 2x2 crafting grid. Your Crafting Table will appear in the result slot next to the grid. Place it on the ground by right-clicking or pressing the Left Trigger button on your controller. You can then pull up the Crafting menu by facing the table and right-clicking or pressing the X button.\\n1-2. Make a Furnace.\\nYou will need a Furnace to create Bricks. If you don't have a Furnace yet, create one by laying out Cobblestone on the Crafting Table using this pattern:\\ns = stone X = empty space s s s s X s s s s\\n1-3. Make a Pickaxe.\\nThe Pickaxe will be used to mine the various stones you might need for your throne. If you don't have a pickaxe yet, make one in your inventory crafting grid with three blocks of wood, stone, metal or diamond, and two sticks like so:\\nm = material s = stick X = empty space m m m X s X X s X\\nTo use, equip the pickaxe by pressing the number corresponding to your pickaxe in your hotbar (PC) or by pressing the Right and Left Bumper buttons (Xbox). Once selected, you can either left-click or press the Right Trigger button on your desired patch of stone to mine it.\\n2. Gathering Materials\\n2-1. Decide the materials to use on the throne.\\nA throne is supposed to be proof of your greatness, so first you must decide on what material to use. First, you'll be needing two blocks, four stairs, two fences or walls, and a slab. You can create the stairs and slabs using any type of Wood Planks, Bricks, Cobblestone, both types of Sandstone, Stone Bricks, Quartz Blocks, and Nether Brick. While the latter two are late-game acquisitions, the rest can be easily gathered and crafted early on in the game. You can create the walls using Cobblestone and the fences with Wood or Nether Brick. You'll also be needing sticks if you decide to make a wooden fence.\\nThe next few steps will explain how to get the different materials you might want to make your throne out of; it is not necessary to gather each and every kind, just select one or two, or even three, that you want to use on your throne.\\n2-2. Get Wood and Cobblestone.\\nWood and Cobblestone are the easiest to acquire, since they are the most abundant of the resources. You can immediately gather wood from nearby trees by left-clicking or pressing the Right Trigger button. Stone can be mined for cobblestone and is usually found by digging into the dirt or exposed on cliffs and hills, and can easily be mined with a pickaxe.\\n2-3. Gather Sandstone.\\nSandstone can be found while digging in the Desert or Beach, and Red Sandstone can be found in Mesas; both can be mined with a pickaxe.\\nAlternately, you can make these blocks by gathering Sand or Red Sand found in the same areas Sandstone generates in, and filling all four slots of your inventory's 2x2 crafting grid with the Sand blocks.\\nStone Bricks can be created in the same method as Sandstone blocks; simply pull out your inventory and lay Cobblestone in all four slots of the crafting grid.\\n2-4. Create Bricks.\\nBricks can be made by gathering Clay, which are smooth, soft grayish blocks found underwater, and smelting them with a furnace.\\nOpen the furnace by pressing the right mouse button or the X button. Place Clay on the top slot of the furnace, and then place a piece of fuel (flammable materials such as wood, planks, coal, saplings, or even a bucket of lava) on the bottom slot. Then simply wait for the item to be smelted on the result slot to the right. Do note that you might need to replenish your fuel often before you get enough Bricks. You can tell how much fuel there is left by looking at the fire symbol between the fuel and item slot. When it's fully red-orange, you have plenty of fuel left; the duller the color is, the less fuel remains, and it would need to be replenished.\\nYou can then make Brick Blocks the same method as Sandstone—place the individual bricks on all the four slots of the inventory crafting grid and take the ensuing Brick Block.\\n2-5. Gather Quartz blocks and Nether Bricks.\\nQuartz blocks and Nether Brick are near-endgame items found in the Nether, which you can access through a Nether portal. You'll need an Obsidian and a Diamond pickaxe to even make the portal, which makes these two materials inaccessible for early players in Survival mode. You can gather Netherrack by hand to make bricks, and Quartz must be mined from Netherrack with larger white discolorations, which yields you small Quartz pieces.\\nQuartz blocks can be created with the same method as Sandstone, and you can smelt Netherrack to make Bricks, which act much like regular bricks of a different color.\\n3. Crafting the Throne Parts\\n3-1. Create the stairs and slabs.\\nFirst gather 9 blocks of your preferred material.\\nFor your stairs, lay out the blocks in an ascending order on your crafting table's menu: m = material X = empty space m X Xm m Xm m morX X mX m mm m m\\nTo make the slab, simply lay out three blocks of your chosen material in one of the rows in the crafting menu: X X Xm m mX X Xorm m mX X XX X XorX X XX X Xm m m\\nThe crafting recipe for stairs yields 4 stairs, while the crafting recipe for slabs yield 6 slabs.\\n3-2. Craft wooden fences.\\nIn the PC edition, you need 2 sticks and four wood planks, while for Xbox 360, you only needs 6 sticks. You then lay them out like this: s = stick p = plankX = empty space\\nPC X X X p s p p s p\\nXbox 360 X X X s s s s s s\\nThis will yield you 4 wooden fences.\\n3-3. Make walls and Nether Brick fences.\\nTake 6 blocks of Cobblestone or Nether Brick then lay it out:\\nm = material X = empty space X X X m m m m m m\\nThis will yield you 6 walls or Nether Brick fences.\\n4. Constructing the Throne\\n4-1. Select an area to place your throne.\\nYou can place your throne practically anywhere you want, but it's preferred to have it inside whatever castle or building you made, or in the middle of a village. Whatever the case, a throne is your proof of superiority over the world of Minecraft, so feel free to build it wherever you want to.\\n4-2. Lay down a slab in the area you selected.\\nOn the PC, you can do this by pressing the number corresponding to the item in your hotbar, which can be located on the bottom of your screen, or using the mouse scroll button to select your item, then right-clicking on the area. On the Xbox, you can select your items by pressing the Right and Left Bumper buttons, and then placing it by pressing the Left Trigger button.\\n4-3. Put two stairs on the opposite sides of the slab.\\nThey should be facing away from each other so that the back side of the stairs is connected to the slab. From the top, it should look like this:\\nS = slab st = stair B = block f = fence/wall X = empty space st S st\\n4-4. Add two more stairs to connect them.\\nDo this by placing a block on one of the free sides of the slab, and then attaching the other two stairs to it so that they connect to the first pair of stairs. It should look something like this:\\nst B st st S st\\nThe end result would have the three sides of the slab surrounded, leaving one space open, and will already vaguely resemble a chair.\\n4-5. Place the second block on top of the first block.\\nThis will give the chair a high back. It should look like this from the front:\\nX B Xst S st\\n4-6. Place a fence or a wall on each side of the block.\\nDo this right on top of where the back pair of stairs are to give it a wider and fancier back. This is what it should look like from the front and top:\\nfront: f B f st S st top (bottom layer) st B st st S st top (top layer) f B f X X X\\nThere you have it! A nice simple throne! Now relax and gaze upon your subjects on top of your throne!\\nTips\\nYou don't have to use the same materials for the entire thing. You can mix and match the blocks and items, and create your own colorful throne!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You can build pretty much anything in Minecraft. This means that whether you make your own house, become a homeless vagrant surviving on your own, or find a village and coexist with the villagers, you can build whatever you want or need. When you're feeling like you're on top of the world, you might want a throne. With the right materials, you can create it easily.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Crafting the Necessary Tools\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a Crafting Table.\", \"描述\": \"To make some of the materials for your throne, you first need a crafting table. If you don't have one yet, open your inventory and place four Wood Planks on all the slots of the 2x2 crafting grid. Your Crafting Table will appear in the result slot next to the grid. Place it on the ground by right-clicking or pressing the Left Trigger button on your controller. You can then pull up the Crafting menu by facing the table and right-clicking or pressing the X button.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a Furnace.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a Furnace to create Bricks. If you don't have a Furnace yet, create one by laying out Cobblestone on the Crafting Table using this pattern:\\ns = stone X = empty space s s s s X s s s s\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a Pickaxe.\", \"描述\": \"The Pickaxe will be used to mine the various stones you might need for your throne. If you don't have a pickaxe yet, make one in your inventory crafting grid with three blocks of wood, stone, metal or diamond, and two sticks like so:\\nm = material s = stick X = empty space m m m X s X X s X\\nTo use, equip the pickaxe by pressing the number corresponding to your pickaxe in your hotbar (PC) or by pressing the Right and Left Bumper buttons (Xbox). Once selected, you can either left-click or press the Right Trigger button on your desired patch of stone to mine it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gathering Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide the materials to use on the throne.\", \"描述\": \"A throne is supposed to be proof of your greatness, so first you must decide on what material to use. First, you'll be needing two blocks, four stairs, two fences or walls, and a slab. You can create the stairs and slabs using any type of Wood Planks, Bricks, Cobblestone, both types of Sandstone, Stone Bricks, Quartz Blocks, and Nether Brick. While the latter two are late-game acquisitions, the rest can be easily gathered and crafted early on in the game. You can create the walls using Cobblestone and the fences with Wood or Nether Brick. You'll also be needing sticks if you decide to make a wooden fence.\\nThe next few steps will explain how to get the different materials you might want to make your throne out of; it is not necessary to gather each and every kind, just select one or two, or even three, that you want to use on your throne.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get Wood and Cobblestone.\", \"描述\": \"Wood and Cobblestone are the easiest to acquire, since they are the most abundant of the resources. You can immediately gather wood from nearby trees by left-clicking or pressing the Right Trigger button. Stone can be mined for cobblestone and is usually found by digging into the dirt or exposed on cliffs and hills, and can easily be mined with a pickaxe.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather Sandstone.\", \"描述\": \"Sandstone can be found while digging in the Desert or Beach, and Red Sandstone can be found in Mesas; both can be mined with a pickaxe.\\nAlternately, you can make these blocks by gathering Sand or Red Sand found in the same areas Sandstone generates in, and filling all four slots of your inventory's 2x2 crafting grid with the Sand blocks.\\nStone Bricks can be created in the same method as Sandstone blocks; simply pull out your inventory and lay Cobblestone in all four slots of the crafting grid.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create Bricks.\", \"描述\": \"Bricks can be made by gathering Clay, which are smooth, soft grayish blocks found underwater, and smelting them with a furnace.\\nOpen the furnace by pressing the right mouse button or the X button. Place Clay on the top slot of the furnace, and then place a piece of fuel (flammable materials such as wood, planks, coal, saplings, or even a bucket of lava) on the bottom slot. Then simply wait for the item to be smelted on the result slot to the right. Do note that you might need to replenish your fuel often before you get enough Bricks. You can tell how much fuel there is left by looking at the fire symbol between the fuel and item slot. When it's fully red-orange, you have plenty of fuel left; the duller the color is, the less fuel remains, and it would need to be replenished.\\nYou can then make Brick Blocks the same method as Sandstone—place the individual bricks on all the four slots of the inventory crafting grid and take the ensuing Brick Block.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Gather Quartz blocks and Nether Bricks.\", \"描述\": \"Quartz blocks and Nether Brick are near-endgame items found in the Nether, which you can access through a Nether portal. You'll need an Obsidian and a Diamond pickaxe to even make the portal, which makes these two materials inaccessible for early players in Survival mode. You can gather Netherrack by hand to make bricks, and Quartz must be mined from Netherrack with larger white discolorations, which yields you small Quartz pieces.\\nQuartz blocks can be created with the same method as Sandstone, and you can smelt Netherrack to make Bricks, which act much like regular bricks of a different color.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Crafting the Throne Parts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create the stairs and slabs.\", \"描述\": \"First gather 9 blocks of your preferred material.\\nFor your stairs, lay out the blocks in an ascending order on your crafting table's menu: m = material X = empty space m X Xm m Xm m morX X mX m mm m m\\nTo make the slab, simply lay out three blocks of your chosen material in one of the rows in the crafting menu: X X Xm m mX X Xorm m mX X XX X XorX X XX X Xm m m\\nThe crafting recipe for stairs yields 4 stairs, while the crafting recipe for slabs yield 6 slabs.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Craft wooden fences.\", \"描述\": \"In the PC edition, you need 2 sticks and four wood planks, while for Xbox 360, you only needs 6 sticks. You then lay them out like this: s = stick p = plankX = empty space\\nPC X X X p s p p s p\\nXbox 360 X X X s s s s s s\\nThis will yield you 4 wooden fences.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make walls and Nether Brick fences.\", \"描述\": \"Take 6 blocks of Cobblestone or Nether Brick then lay it out:\\nm = material X = empty space X X X m m m m m m\\nThis will yield you 6 walls or Nether Brick fences.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Throne\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select an area to place your throne.\", \"描述\": \"You can place your throne practically anywhere you want, but it's preferred to have it inside whatever castle or building you made, or in the middle of a village. Whatever the case, a throne is your proof of superiority over the world of Minecraft, so feel free to build it wherever you want to.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay down a slab in the area you selected.\", \"描述\": \"On the PC, you can do this by pressing the number corresponding to the item in your hotbar, which can be located on the bottom of your screen, or using the mouse scroll button to select your item, then right-clicking on the area. On the Xbox, you can select your items by pressing the Right and Left Bumper buttons, and then placing it by pressing the Left Trigger button.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put two stairs on the opposite sides of the slab.\", \"描述\": \"They should be facing away from each other so that the back side of the stairs is connected to the slab. From the top, it should look like this:\\nS = slab st = stair B = block f = fence/wall X = empty space st S st\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add two more stairs to connect them.\", \"描述\": \"Do this by placing a block on one of the free sides of the slab, and then attaching the other two stairs to it so that they connect to the first pair of stairs. It should look something like this:\\nst B st st S st\\nThe end result would have the three sides of the slab surrounded, leaving one space open, and will already vaguely resemble a chair.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the second block on top of the first block.\", \"描述\": \"This will give the chair a high back. It should look like this from the front:\\nX B Xst S st\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place a fence or a wall on each side of the block.\", \"描述\": \"Do this right on top of where the back pair of stairs are to give it a wider and fancier back. This is what it should look like from the front and top:\\nfront: f B f st S st top (bottom layer) st B st st S st top (top layer) f B f X X X\\nThere you have it! A nice simple throne! Now relax and gaze upon your subjects on top of your throne!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You don't have to use the same materials for the entire thing. You can mix and match the blocks and items, and create your own colorful throne!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,594 |
How to Build a Tiny House
|
1. Is living in a tiny house a good idea?
If you don’t need a lot of space to be happy, then yes.
The main draw of a tiny house is downsizing your life, consuming less, and being happy with what you have. If you don’t need a lot of space or stuff to be happy, then a tiny house might be right for you. As a bonus, living in a tiny house is usually a lot cheaper than living in a normal-sized house.
Keep in mind that there are drawbacks of tiny houses too. You have to be very neat and organized to fit everything in there. If you live with other people, you might not like being so close to everyone all the time. You’ll also have to use smaller appliances, like ovens, refrigerators, and dishwashers. It might be tough to fit everything in these smaller types.
2. How much does building a tiny house cost?
Building your own tiny house costs an average of $12,000-35,000.
There is a lot of variation depending on what materials you use, how fancy you make your house, and whether or not you hire anyone to help you. If you’re very frugal you could spend $10,000 or less, or you could go all-out and spend over $40,000. If you’re on a budget, it’s best to plan the house out and add up all the materials you’ll need to get an idea of what you’ll spend.
This cost doesn’t include the land or property you'll need to build the house on. It also doesn't include local permits that you might need to do the construction on your tiny house.
3. Is it cheaper to buy or build a tiny house?
In general, building a tiny house is cheaper than buying one.
On average, building a tiny house costs $12,000-35,000. By comparison, buying a tiny house can cost $30,000-40,000, but might be a lot more depending on the area and amenities. If you're on a budget, building is cheaper than buying in most cases.
Keep in mind these are only averages. You could buy a very basic tiny house or build a very luxurious tiny house, and the prices will be different.
4. Is a tiny house cheaper than a regular house?
Overall tiny houses are cheaper, but they could cost more per sq.
Building or buying a tiny house is definitely overall cheaper than a full-size house. The average home cost in the US is around $230,000, so even an expensive tiny home is a lot cheaper than that. However, building a tiny home tends to cost more per square foot. A normal house costs about $150 per sq. ft., whereas a tiny house could be up to $400 per sq. ft. This is because you’ll be using less building materials, so you’ll miss out on bulk savings and discounts. Ironically, while a tiny house is cheaper overall, it might not be the best value for your dollar.
If you do hire contractors to do any work on your tiny home, they might also mark up their labor costs since they aren’t making as much on a smaller building.
5. Is building a tiny house hard?
This is a big construction project and it could definitely be difficult.
You’ll need some construction experience, planning and design skills, familiarity with tools and building materials, and tons of patience. Don’t get discouraged, but also be prepared to do a lot of hard work.
Just because you don’t have these skills at the moment doesn’t mean you can’t learn! There are tons of instructional videos online that can help you pull this project off.
You could also hire someone to help you. You’ll have the satisfaction of doing the work yourself but with a professional to watch and make sure you don’t make any mistakes.
You can also bring in a professional at any point to take over if you realize this is a bigger job than you planned on.
6. Are there ways to make building a tiny house easier?
6-1. Yes, you could use a pre-made house shell.
These shells give you the building exterior, so you’d just have to take care of the interior. If you’re not on board for a big construction project like building a whole house, then this option lets you exercise some creativity with a lot less work.
Note that these shells can be expensive, ranging from $17,000 to $37,000. This will definitely add to your budget.
6-2. You could also convert a small shed or garage into a tiny house.
These small buildings can work great as tiny houses. You’ll already have the exterior and foundation, so you’d just have to gut and rebuild the inside. This makes the job faster and easier.
If you are converting an old building into a tiny house, have a contractor inspect it first to make sure it’s structurally sound.
7. What materials do I need to build a tiny house?
All the same materials you'd need to build a regular house.
A tiny house might be small, but it's still a building. This means you'd need everything that a normal construction project would require. Some main materials to get include:
Lumber for the housing frame.
Plywood or drywall for the walls.
Cement for the foundation.
Siding, shingles, windows, and doors.
Insulation.
Wires, pipes, outlets, and appliances.
If you're building a mobile home, then you'll also need wheels and a large trailer bed.
8. How do I get started?
Planning the project is the most important first step.
You wouldn't try to build any other construction project without proper planning, so your tiny house is no different. Early steps include finding land or property for the house, designing the house, finding out where to get materials, and obtaining financing or loans if you need them.
If you don't have a lot of experience designing a house, it's best to have a professional look at your plans and determine if the house will be safe.
Also look into the legal side of building a tiny home before you start. States and counties all have different laws about the permits and codes you need to build a home.
You'll also need a wheeled trailer if you’re building a mobile home.
9. Do I have to build a foundation for my house?
If the house is fixed in one place, then you'll need a foundation.
Not only is the foundation necessary to support the house, but almost every locality requires fixed buildings to rest on a foundation. This means you'll need to dig a hole as large as the house will be and fill it with cement for a solid foundation.
You'll need a lot of cement for a foundation, so it's best to call in a contractor to lay the foundation.
If your house will be mobile like an RV, then you don't need a stone foundation. You will need wheels for it so you can move it around.
10. What do I do after laying the foundation?
Next you have to build the shell for the house.
This lays out the perimeter for your house. The shell includes flooring, outer walls, and the roof. This is very important for making sure you have a strong, durable house, so be sure to plan this carefully and use quality materials.
You could also make this easier by buying a pre-made house shell instead of building one.
11. What do I cover my tiny house with?
Siding and shingles are the most common coverings.
Just like with normal houses, tiny houses use regular siding and shingles for the roof. The only difference is that you'll need less of each material to cover your house.
12. How do I finish my tiny house?
Adding cosmetics and building the interior are the next steps.
Once you've completed the shell and roofing, there's still a lot of work to do. Constructing the interior is how you'll really make your house your own. These are some of the general steps involved:
Insulating the interior.
Putting up walls.
Hanging shelves and installing doors.
Adding cosmetics like painting or paneling.
Bringing in any appliances you’ll be using.
13. How do I get water into a tiny house?
You'll need a tank and pump system or a hookup to get indoor plumbing.
A water tank with a pump system is great for a mobile tiny house, like with an RV, or if you don't live near any water pipes. For a hookup, you'll need to attach your house to the local water system with a pipe or hose. This will only work for a house fixed in position. In either case, you'll need to build a plumbing system with pipes in your house.
If you're not familiar with building plumbing systems, then this is definitely something you'll need a professional for. Any problems with the plumbing can flood your house.
There is also the option of living totally off the grid and using an outhouse and well water instead of installing indoor plumbing.
14. Can I get electricity in a tiny house?
Yes, but you'll have to wire the house properly.
This requires running wires all throughout the home and installing outlets, light fixtures, and circuit boxes. To power the house, you have a few options. You could hook up your home to the local electricity supply and pay the power company. You could also use renewable methods like installing solar panels or windmills to generate electricity.
Working with electricity is dangerous, especially if you've never done it before. You could give yourself a shock or even start a fire. Don't hesitate to call in an electrician if you need some help wiring up the house.
It's also a good idea to have a backup generator in case your electricity supply fails.
15. What states allow tiny houses?
Tiny houses are legal in every state, but the particular laws vary.
Technically, no US states have outlawed tiny houses. But states and cities all have different regulations on what size dwellings are allowed, building codes, and zoning. Some of these laws are more hostile to tiny homes than others. The best thing to do is investigate your local laws to see how friendly your area is to tiny houses.
According to the Tiny House Society, Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Oregon, New Mexico, Texas, Michigan, and Georgia are the most friendly states to tiny houses.
Connecticut is currently the least friendly state for tiny houses, scoring a 0/10 on the Tiny House Society’s friendliness scale. The state has very strict building codes and zoning laws, and currently has no laws on the books for accommodating tiny houses.
16. Are there any laws I have to follow while building my house?
16-1. The main regulations are whether your house is mobile or fixed.
Tiny houses on wheels are usually classed as RVs, so you’ll have to register it as such in your state. You’ll also have to park it at a designated RV park or campground. Tiny houses fixed in place and built on a foundation is considered a dwelling. This means you’ll need property to put it on and follow building codes.
Some states don’t allow tiny houses to be the only dwelling on a property. This means you’d have to build it on someone else’s property with another house or add it to your own property as a guest house or cottage.
16-2. You’ll also need construction permits in most places.
This is especially important if your tiny house is on a foundation, meaning it will be classed as a dwelling or building. These laws all vary from place to place, so the best thing to do is check with your local zoning board to see which permits, if any, you’ll need to build your house.
Remember that construction permits cost money, so add them to your budget if you need them.
Tips
If you're building a mobile tiny house, remember that you'll need a truck and trailer to transport it.
Warnings
Tiny houses are usually not eligible for mortgages. If you need financing to build your house, you'll probably need a construction loan instead.
Always have a professional inspect your house when you're done with it to make sure it's structurally sound.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:12",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Is living in a tiny house a good idea?\\nIf you don’t need a lot of space to be happy, then yes.\\nThe main draw of a tiny house is downsizing your life, consuming less, and being happy with what you have. If you don’t need a lot of space or stuff to be happy, then a tiny house might be right for you. As a bonus, living in a tiny house is usually a lot cheaper than living in a normal-sized house.\\nKeep in mind that there are drawbacks of tiny houses too. You have to be very neat and organized to fit everything in there. If you live with other people, you might not like being so close to everyone all the time. You’ll also have to use smaller appliances, like ovens, refrigerators, and dishwashers. It might be tough to fit everything in these smaller types.\\n2. How much does building a tiny house cost?\\nBuilding your own tiny house costs an average of $12,000-35,000.\\nThere is a lot of variation depending on what materials you use, how fancy you make your house, and whether or not you hire anyone to help you. If you’re very frugal you could spend $10,000 or less, or you could go all-out and spend over $40,000. If you’re on a budget, it’s best to plan the house out and add up all the materials you’ll need to get an idea of what you’ll spend.\\nThis cost doesn’t include the land or property you'll need to build the house on. It also doesn't include local permits that you might need to do the construction on your tiny house.\\n3. Is it cheaper to buy or build a tiny house?\\nIn general, building a tiny house is cheaper than buying one.\\nOn average, building a tiny house costs $12,000-35,000. By comparison, buying a tiny house can cost $30,000-40,000, but might be a lot more depending on the area and amenities. If you're on a budget, building is cheaper than buying in most cases.\\nKeep in mind these are only averages. You could buy a very basic tiny house or build a very luxurious tiny house, and the prices will be different.\\n4. Is a tiny house cheaper than a regular house?\\nOverall tiny houses are cheaper, but they could cost more per sq.\\nBuilding or buying a tiny house is definitely overall cheaper than a full-size house. The average home cost in the US is around $230,000, so even an expensive tiny home is a lot cheaper than that. However, building a tiny home tends to cost more per square foot. A normal house costs about $150 per sq. ft., whereas a tiny house could be up to $400 per sq. ft. This is because you’ll be using less building materials, so you’ll miss out on bulk savings and discounts. Ironically, while a tiny house is cheaper overall, it might not be the best value for your dollar.\\nIf you do hire contractors to do any work on your tiny home, they might also mark up their labor costs since they aren’t making as much on a smaller building.\\n5. Is building a tiny house hard?\\nThis is a big construction project and it could definitely be difficult.\\nYou’ll need some construction experience, planning and design skills, familiarity with tools and building materials, and tons of patience. Don’t get discouraged, but also be prepared to do a lot of hard work.\\nJust because you don’t have these skills at the moment doesn’t mean you can’t learn! There are tons of instructional videos online that can help you pull this project off.\\nYou could also hire someone to help you. You’ll have the satisfaction of doing the work yourself but with a professional to watch and make sure you don’t make any mistakes.\\nYou can also bring in a professional at any point to take over if you realize this is a bigger job than you planned on.\\n6. Are there ways to make building a tiny house easier?\\n6-1. Yes, you could use a pre-made house shell.\\nThese shells give you the building exterior, so you’d just have to take care of the interior. If you’re not on board for a big construction project like building a whole house, then this option lets you exercise some creativity with a lot less work.\\nNote that these shells can be expensive, ranging from $17,000 to $37,000. This will definitely add to your budget.\\n6-2. You could also convert a small shed or garage into a tiny house.\\nThese small buildings can work great as tiny houses. You’ll already have the exterior and foundation, so you’d just have to gut and rebuild the inside. This makes the job faster and easier.\\nIf you are converting an old building into a tiny house, have a contractor inspect it first to make sure it’s structurally sound.\\n7. What materials do I need to build a tiny house?\\nAll the same materials you'd need to build a regular house.\\nA tiny house might be small, but it's still a building. This means you'd need everything that a normal construction project would require. Some main materials to get include:\\nLumber for the housing frame.\\nPlywood or drywall for the walls.\\nCement for the foundation.\\nSiding, shingles, windows, and doors.\\nInsulation.\\nWires, pipes, outlets, and appliances.\\nIf you're building a mobile home, then you'll also need wheels and a large trailer bed.\\n8. How do I get started?\\nPlanning the project is the most important first step.\\nYou wouldn't try to build any other construction project without proper planning, so your tiny house is no different. Early steps include finding land or property for the house, designing the house, finding out where to get materials, and obtaining financing or loans if you need them.\\nIf you don't have a lot of experience designing a house, it's best to have a professional look at your plans and determine if the house will be safe.\\nAlso look into the legal side of building a tiny home before you start. States and counties all have different laws about the permits and codes you need to build a home.\\nYou'll also need a wheeled trailer if you’re building a mobile home.\\n9. Do I have to build a foundation for my house?\\nIf the house is fixed in one place, then you'll need a foundation.\\nNot only is the foundation necessary to support the house, but almost every locality requires fixed buildings to rest on a foundation. This means you'll need to dig a hole as large as the house will be and fill it with cement for a solid foundation.\\nYou'll need a lot of cement for a foundation, so it's best to call in a contractor to lay the foundation.\\nIf your house will be mobile like an RV, then you don't need a stone foundation. You will need wheels for it so you can move it around.\\n10. What do I do after laying the foundation?\\nNext you have to build the shell for the house.\\nThis lays out the perimeter for your house. The shell includes flooring, outer walls, and the roof. This is very important for making sure you have a strong, durable house, so be sure to plan this carefully and use quality materials.\\nYou could also make this easier by buying a pre-made house shell instead of building one.\\n11. What do I cover my tiny house with?\\nSiding and shingles are the most common coverings.\\nJust like with normal houses, tiny houses use regular siding and shingles for the roof. The only difference is that you'll need less of each material to cover your house.\\n12. How do I finish my tiny house?\\nAdding cosmetics and building the interior are the next steps.\\nOnce you've completed the shell and roofing, there's still a lot of work to do. Constructing the interior is how you'll really make your house your own. These are some of the general steps involved:\\nInsulating the interior.\\nPutting up walls.\\nHanging shelves and installing doors.\\nAdding cosmetics like painting or paneling.\\nBringing in any appliances you’ll be using.\\n13. How do I get water into a tiny house?\\nYou'll need a tank and pump system or a hookup to get indoor plumbing.\\nA water tank with a pump system is great for a mobile tiny house, like with an RV, or if you don't live near any water pipes. For a hookup, you'll need to attach your house to the local water system with a pipe or hose. This will only work for a house fixed in position. In either case, you'll need to build a plumbing system with pipes in your house.\\nIf you're not familiar with building plumbing systems, then this is definitely something you'll need a professional for. Any problems with the plumbing can flood your house.\\nThere is also the option of living totally off the grid and using an outhouse and well water instead of installing indoor plumbing.\\n14. Can I get electricity in a tiny house?\\nYes, but you'll have to wire the house properly.\\nThis requires running wires all throughout the home and installing outlets, light fixtures, and circuit boxes. To power the house, you have a few options. You could hook up your home to the local electricity supply and pay the power company. You could also use renewable methods like installing solar panels or windmills to generate electricity.\\nWorking with electricity is dangerous, especially if you've never done it before. You could give yourself a shock or even start a fire. Don't hesitate to call in an electrician if you need some help wiring up the house.\\nIt's also a good idea to have a backup generator in case your electricity supply fails.\\n15. What states allow tiny houses?\\nTiny houses are legal in every state, but the particular laws vary.\\nTechnically, no US states have outlawed tiny houses. But states and cities all have different regulations on what size dwellings are allowed, building codes, and zoning. Some of these laws are more hostile to tiny homes than others. The best thing to do is investigate your local laws to see how friendly your area is to tiny houses.\\nAccording to the Tiny House Society, Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Oregon, New Mexico, Texas, Michigan, and Georgia are the most friendly states to tiny houses.\\nConnecticut is currently the least friendly state for tiny houses, scoring a 0/10 on the Tiny House Society’s friendliness scale. The state has very strict building codes and zoning laws, and currently has no laws on the books for accommodating tiny houses.\\n16. Are there any laws I have to follow while building my house?\\n16-1. The main regulations are whether your house is mobile or fixed.\\nTiny houses on wheels are usually classed as RVs, so you’ll have to register it as such in your state. You’ll also have to park it at a designated RV park or campground. Tiny houses fixed in place and built on a foundation is considered a dwelling. This means you’ll need property to put it on and follow building codes.\\nSome states don’t allow tiny houses to be the only dwelling on a property. This means you’d have to build it on someone else’s property with another house or add it to your own property as a guest house or cottage.\\n16-2. You’ll also need construction permits in most places.\\nThis is especially important if your tiny house is on a foundation, meaning it will be classed as a dwelling or building. These laws all vary from place to place, so the best thing to do is check with your local zoning board to see which permits, if any, you’ll need to build your house.\\nRemember that construction permits cost money, so add them to your budget if you need them.\\nTips\\nIf you're building a mobile tiny house, remember that you'll need a truck and trailer to transport it.\\nWarnings\\nTiny houses are usually not eligible for mortgages. If you need financing to build your house, you'll probably need a construction loan instead.\\nAlways have a professional inspect your house when you're done with it to make sure it's structurally sound.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The tiny house movement is popular in many parts of the world, and appeals to people looking to downsize their lives and reduce their footprint. Building your very own tiny house is a great project to personalize your home to your exact tastes. However, this is a big job, so you’re probably wondering how to get started. Luckily, we’re here to help! Read on to find answers to your most common questions about building a tiny house.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Is living in a tiny house a good idea?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"If you don’t need a lot of space to be happy, then yes.\", \"描述\": \"The main draw of a tiny house is downsizing your life, consuming less, and being happy with what you have. If you don’t need a lot of space or stuff to be happy, then a tiny house might be right for you. As a bonus, living in a tiny house is usually a lot cheaper than living in a normal-sized house.\\nKeep in mind that there are drawbacks of tiny houses too. You have to be very neat and organized to fit everything in there. If you live with other people, you might not like being so close to everyone all the time. You’ll also have to use smaller appliances, like ovens, refrigerators, and dishwashers. It might be tough to fit everything in these smaller types.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"How much does building a tiny house cost?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building your own tiny house costs an average of $12,000-35,000.\", \"描述\": \"There is a lot of variation depending on what materials you use, how fancy you make your house, and whether or not you hire anyone to help you. If you’re very frugal you could spend $10,000 or less, or you could go all-out and spend over $40,000. If you’re on a budget, it’s best to plan the house out and add up all the materials you’ll need to get an idea of what you’ll spend.\\nThis cost doesn’t include the land or property you'll need to build the house on. It also doesn't include local permits that you might need to do the construction on your tiny house.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Is it cheaper to buy or build a tiny house?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"In general, building a tiny house is cheaper than buying one.\", \"描述\": \"On average, building a tiny house costs $12,000-35,000. By comparison, buying a tiny house can cost $30,000-40,000, but might be a lot more depending on the area and amenities. If you're on a budget, building is cheaper than buying in most cases.\\nKeep in mind these are only averages. You could buy a very basic tiny house or build a very luxurious tiny house, and the prices will be different.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Is a tiny house cheaper than a regular house?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Overall tiny houses are cheaper, but they could cost more per sq.\", \"描述\": \"Building or buying a tiny house is definitely overall cheaper than a full-size house. The average home cost in the US is around $230,000, so even an expensive tiny home is a lot cheaper than that. However, building a tiny home tends to cost more per square foot. A normal house costs about $150 per sq. ft., whereas a tiny house could be up to $400 per sq. ft. This is because you’ll be using less building materials, so you’ll miss out on bulk savings and discounts. Ironically, while a tiny house is cheaper overall, it might not be the best value for your dollar.\\nIf you do hire contractors to do any work on your tiny home, they might also mark up their labor costs since they aren’t making as much on a smaller building.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Is building a tiny house hard?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"This is a big construction project and it could definitely be difficult.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need some construction experience, planning and design skills, familiarity with tools and building materials, and tons of patience. Don’t get discouraged, but also be prepared to do a lot of hard work.\\nJust because you don’t have these skills at the moment doesn’t mean you can’t learn! There are tons of instructional videos online that can help you pull this project off.\\nYou could also hire someone to help you. You’ll have the satisfaction of doing the work yourself but with a professional to watch and make sure you don’t make any mistakes.\\nYou can also bring in a professional at any point to take over if you realize this is a bigger job than you planned on.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Are there ways to make building a tiny house easier?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Yes, you could use a pre-made house shell.\", \"描述\": \"These shells give you the building exterior, so you’d just have to take care of the interior. If you’re not on board for a big construction project like building a whole house, then this option lets you exercise some creativity with a lot less work.\\nNote that these shells can be expensive, ranging from $17,000 to $37,000. This will definitely add to your budget.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"You could also convert a small shed or garage into a tiny house.\", \"描述\": \"These small buildings can work great as tiny houses. You’ll already have the exterior and foundation, so you’d just have to gut and rebuild the inside. This makes the job faster and easier.\\nIf you are converting an old building into a tiny house, have a contractor inspect it first to make sure it’s structurally sound.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"What materials do I need to build a tiny house?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"All the same materials you'd need to build a regular house.\", \"描述\": \"A tiny house might be small, but it's still a building. This means you'd need everything that a normal construction project would require. Some main materials to get include:\\nLumber for the housing frame.\\nPlywood or drywall for the walls.\\nCement for the foundation.\\nSiding, shingles, windows, and doors.\\nInsulation.\\nWires, pipes, outlets, and appliances.\\nIf you're building a mobile home, then you'll also need wheels and a large trailer bed.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"How do I get started?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the project is the most important first step.\", \"描述\": \"You wouldn't try to build any other construction project without proper planning, so your tiny house is no different. Early steps include finding land or property for the house, designing the house, finding out where to get materials, and obtaining financing or loans if you need them.\\nIf you don't have a lot of experience designing a house, it's best to have a professional look at your plans and determine if the house will be safe.\\nAlso look into the legal side of building a tiny home before you start. States and counties all have different laws about the permits and codes you need to build a home.\\nYou'll also need a wheeled trailer if you’re building a mobile home.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Do I have to build a foundation for my house?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"If the house is fixed in one place, then you'll need a foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Not only is the foundation necessary to support the house, but almost every locality requires fixed buildings to rest on a foundation. This means you'll need to dig a hole as large as the house will be and fill it with cement for a solid foundation.\\nYou'll need a lot of cement for a foundation, so it's best to call in a contractor to lay the foundation.\\nIf your house will be mobile like an RV, then you don't need a stone foundation. You will need wheels for it so you can move it around.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"What do I do after laying the foundation?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Next you have to build the shell for the house.\", \"描述\": \"This lays out the perimeter for your house. The shell includes flooring, outer walls, and the roof. This is very important for making sure you have a strong, durable house, so be sure to plan this carefully and use quality materials.\\nYou could also make this easier by buying a pre-made house shell instead of building one.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"What do I cover my tiny house with?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Siding and shingles are the most common coverings.\", \"描述\": \"Just like with normal houses, tiny houses use regular siding and shingles for the roof. The only difference is that you'll need less of each material to cover your house.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"How do I finish my tiny house?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Adding cosmetics and building the interior are the next steps.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've completed the shell and roofing, there's still a lot of work to do. Constructing the interior is how you'll really make your house your own. These are some of the general steps involved:\\nInsulating the interior.\\nPutting up walls.\\nHanging shelves and installing doors.\\nAdding cosmetics like painting or paneling.\\nBringing in any appliances you’ll be using.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"How do I get water into a tiny house?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You'll need a tank and pump system or a hookup to get indoor plumbing.\", \"描述\": \"A water tank with a pump system is great for a mobile tiny house, like with an RV, or if you don't live near any water pipes. For a hookup, you'll need to attach your house to the local water system with a pipe or hose. This will only work for a house fixed in position. In either case, you'll need to build a plumbing system with pipes in your house.\\nIf you're not familiar with building plumbing systems, then this is definitely something you'll need a professional for. Any problems with the plumbing can flood your house.\\nThere is also the option of living totally off the grid and using an outhouse and well water instead of installing indoor plumbing.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Can I get electricity in a tiny house?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Yes, but you'll have to wire the house properly.\", \"描述\": \"This requires running wires all throughout the home and installing outlets, light fixtures, and circuit boxes. To power the house, you have a few options. You could hook up your home to the local electricity supply and pay the power company. You could also use renewable methods like installing solar panels or windmills to generate electricity.\\nWorking with electricity is dangerous, especially if you've never done it before. You could give yourself a shock or even start a fire. Don't hesitate to call in an electrician if you need some help wiring up the house.\\nIt's also a good idea to have a backup generator in case your electricity supply fails.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"What states allow tiny houses?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Tiny houses are legal in every state, but the particular laws vary.\", \"描述\": \"Technically, no US states have outlawed tiny houses. But states and cities all have different regulations on what size dwellings are allowed, building codes, and zoning. Some of these laws are more hostile to tiny homes than others. The best thing to do is investigate your local laws to see how friendly your area is to tiny houses.\\nAccording to the Tiny House Society, Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Oregon, New Mexico, Texas, Michigan, and Georgia are the most friendly states to tiny houses.\\nConnecticut is currently the least friendly state for tiny houses, scoring a 0/10 on the Tiny House Society’s friendliness scale. The state has very strict building codes and zoning laws, and currently has no laws on the books for accommodating tiny houses.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Are there any laws I have to follow while building my house?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"The main regulations are whether your house is mobile or fixed.\", \"描述\": \"Tiny houses on wheels are usually classed as RVs, so you’ll have to register it as such in your state. You’ll also have to park it at a designated RV park or campground. Tiny houses fixed in place and built on a foundation is considered a dwelling. This means you’ll need property to put it on and follow building codes.\\nSome states don’t allow tiny houses to be the only dwelling on a property. This means you’d have to build it on someone else’s property with another house or add it to your own property as a guest house or cottage.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"You’ll also need construction permits in most places.\", \"描述\": \"This is especially important if your tiny house is on a foundation, meaning it will be classed as a dwelling or building. These laws all vary from place to place, so the best thing to do is check with your local zoning board to see which permits, if any, you’ll need to build your house.\\nRemember that construction permits cost money, so add them to your budget if you need them.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you're building a mobile tiny house, remember that you'll need a truck and trailer to transport it.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Tiny houses are usually not eligible for mortgages. If you need financing to build your house, you'll probably need a construction loan instead.\\n\", \"Always have a professional inspect your house when you're done with it to make sure it's structurally sound.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,595 |
How to Build a Torsion Box Workbench Top
|
1. Steps
1-1. Determine the correct proportions.
To build a workbench that is best for you, it must be the right height, width, and length, strong, durable and have features that make it user friendly. These features are things like a good vise or two, being a face vise or an end vise.
Other elements that make it user friendly are things that relate to your style of woodworking: boat building or just piddling in the shop. Tool tray, bench dogs, bench slave and cabinets or shelves under the bench. One note here: a woodworking workbench is to work wood, so build it to meet that need. If you add shelves or cabinets below the top; be sure you can still use your bench dogs and hold fasts. You should also be able to use a clamp under the top. Tool trays are handy, but get in the way when you need to add a clamp on both sides of the bench to hold your work. Think about how you will use this bench and what you need to make it work with you. Think about your seven "P's": "Prior proper planning prevents pee poor performance".
One word of caution here: don't build a workbench that is too large for your shop. Be sure you have room to work around the bench. If it is not what works for you, than it's not going to make you happy or productive.
1-2. Understand that it will need to be strong, heavy and durable.
All torsion boxes have one thing in common: they have small grids or boxes inside one large box. This grid is what gives the torsion box it's strength. It is also one that will hold its shape and not twist or bend under normal workbench use. But you have to build it to fit the type of work you do and for its intended use. This will determine the size and shape of your torsion box top.
1-3. Make a level surface.
Making a level surface to start building is the first step. Level a set of boxes or saw horses or an area large enough for your project. Set rails or long 2x4's on top of them and level those.
1-4. Now lay your first sheet of mid grade plywood or MDF on top of the 2x4's.
This will be the bottom of your workbench top, checking again to ensure that all is still level. This will make for a nice flat top when the torsion box is finished.
The 3/4" plywood or MDF should be slightly over-size to the top you want. This lets you lay out lines for your grid pattern and have room to trim it's flush with the main inside box. Lay out lines around the bottom plywood or MDF for the top size less the thickness of the outside hardwood trim boards that will rap around the top when done.
1-5. Start laying the inside grid of squares.
With the outside lines laid down, you can start laying out the inside grid or squares on the side of the outline. These squares should be of equal size along the length and width of the top. Here we will be using 1x2 lumber for the inside squares, so allow for the 3/4" thickness of each piece, all the short 1x2's across the width of the top should be the same length as should the long strips. This will ensure a strong and square grid pattern. Note: All the 1x2 lumber should be planed or run through the table saw to ensure they are all the same height.
1-6. Build your outside box frame, use the 1x2 lumber, pre-drill holes or use a brad nailer and glue.
Lay out the outside edge lines of the bench top on the MDF or plywood. Fit the frame together on these lines you laid out. Use screws or brad nails only long enough to pass through the width of the 1x2 and about 3/4 of the way into the plywood or MDF. Check the outside frame to ensure its square, measure from corner to corner in a diagonal manner. This outside frame will be glued and screwed or brad nailed to the bottom plywood or MDF. From here all is dependent on the squareness of the outside frame.
1-7. Cut your 1x2 lumber to the proper lengths for the grid, use long pieces the length of the bench and short 1x2's across the width.
1-8. Place the short strips at their pre-determined location of the grid against the outside frame along the length of the bench.
A carpenters square should be used on each short and long strip to ensure its square. Remove any excess glue, neatness is important to good craftsman like work.
1-9. With the short strips in place for the first row, you can now add a long strip in the same manner, glue and screws in pre-drilled holes or brad nails.
Place the long strip into place making sure it touches all the short strips and touching the outside frame at each end. Brad nail at the intersections of the short strips and the long strips. You now have one row of your grid done, check to ensure that all remaining rows will be of the same width across the bottom.
1-10. You can now place more short strips into place as you did the first row of short strips, glue and screw or brad nail them in place making sure they are square to the long strip.
Here you will have to toenail them to the long strip.
1-11. Now you can place another long strip in the same manner as the last long strip and then add the short strips as the previous row with glue screws and or brad nails.
Use glue at the intersections where the short strips meet the long strips, this makes everything strong.
Your last row of short strips should fit not too tight but touching the last long strip and outside frame as the first row of short strips. Check to ensure everything is square and the last row does not bow the outside frame member out.
1-12. Let the glue dry overnight before doing anything else.
After the grid has set overnight, attach it to the bottom plywood. This is the bottom of your workbench.
1-13. When the glue has dried overnight, get help and turn the bottom and grid over placing it back on the 2x4s you used to make a nice flat level surface.
Check to ensure all is still level and square. Lay out lines on the bottom to match the centers lines of the 1x2's on the underside. On these lines you can add brad nails from the outside. This makes for a very strong box.
1-14. When the brad nailing on the bottom is complete, you can again turn over the bottom, again check for flatness and square.
Place the top layer of plywood or MDF onto the grid. If you intend to use the torsion box for a very long time and intend to replace the top piece of plywood or MDF when its worn, than don't glue it in place. This can be done by laying out the center lines again for the grid below the top piece. Using pre-drilled holes, screw the top to the grid below, you can use nice brass or bronze screws and let them show for a nice contrast. Steel screws can be used if counter sunk and the holes plugged. Use enough screws into the grid and along the outside edges to make it very secure. No moment or giving of the top here. With this method you can replace the top plywood or MDF and have a new bench top again for very little money.
1-15. Once the new torsion box is together, you can trim the outside edges of the top and bottom plywood or MDF flush with the outside edges of the outside 1x2 frame.
1-16. The outside trim is a hardwood of 1" to 1-1/2' thick and the width of the thickness of the torsion box.
The . Glue and screw the outside trim into place, do not glue it to the top plywood or MDF. The hardwood outside frame top and bottom outside edges should be rounded over to prevent splintering. Your torsion box is now done and should be about 3" thick by what ever length and width you have chosen.
1-17. After rounding over edges and sanding the entire top, you can put a nice oil finish on the torsion box to keep it looking good and prevent any other problems from water or whatever may come in contact with it.
Oil finishes as 1/2 boiled linseed oil and 1/2 tongue oil,about 3 coats.
1-18. You should build a nice strong 2x frame with 3 layers of 2x6 material for legs.
This new torsion box top is not just strong, stiff and durable but heavy and should have a heavy frame to hold it.
1-19. The frame for your top can be very inexpensive and still look like a million dollars.
At your local lumberyard, pick out the best 2x6's and 2x8's you can find. The grade and quality of these depend on your budget. Yellow pine is really good for this and still much less than any hardwood.
1-20. Trim the outside edge of the 2x6 and 2x8's, cut the rounded edge off, about 1/4"-5/16" will square the edges.
1-21. Cut the 2x6's to length for the legs, this is up to you as to how high you want your bench top.
It should be high enough that you don't have to bend over to work and not so high that you have to reach up.
1-22. Cut one of the 3 2x6 lamination shorter by the width of the bottom trimmed 2x6 foot and the top trimmed 2x8 rail.
1-23. With the 2x6's cut to length and trimmed to width, glue and screw them together making sure you leave the right amount of space for the foot at the bottom and right amount at the top for the top rail.
You can use scrap pieces for this to ensure proper location of the short leg lamination.
1-24. Cut 2 trimmed 2x6's the length of the width of the base frame plus about 3" over on each side of the legs.
These pieces are for the foot, they should have a small amount of material removed from the center bottom section of each foot to let it set level.
1-25. Glue and lag screw the foot (trimmed 2x6) to the legs at the pre-determined end for the 2x6 foot.
Use a framing square to make sure that the legs and foot fit square. This should give you a nice inletted look for the foot. All lag screws should be long enough to pass through the foot/rails and about 2-1/2" into the legs, just don't let go completely through.
1-26. The next piece to add is the top rail, this should be just the length of the width of the bottom of your base frame.
As with the foot piece it should also be glued and lag screwed into place. This to should give you an inletted look.
1-27. Now that the leg assembly is complete, you can attach the long trimmed 2x8 side rails with glue and lag screws.
These should be the length of your bench less the amount of overhang used for mounting vises. The long side rails should overlap the end rails at the corners of the legs.
1-28. A stretcher between the foot pieces can be added if wanted.
Two trimmed 2x4's attached to the top edge of the foot will also make a good base to build shelves or storage cabinets under your new workbench.
1-29. The base frame can also have a nice oil finish after rounding any edges that are subject to splintering and sanding it all smooth.
1-30. The top torsion box can be placed on top of the base frame and attached with figure eights or you can install cross pieces about 2x3" at the top rails of the base frame.
Placing four pieces, one at each end of the base frame and two more evenly spaced from the ends and pre-drilled for screws to attach the top torsion box.
This inexpensive workbench can have lots of extras as, tool tray added to one side of the torsion box. It can also have vises attached to the overhang end as in a face vise and an end vise. You can add bench dog holes, these should be decided on before building the top torsion box. To have bench dogs in a torsion box, you need to install a trimmed 2x6 one row from the outside edge. This trimmed 2x6 is glued and screwed to the bottom inside and out. Placing screws at locations that will not interfere with the drilling of dog holes.
More features as built in cabinets or shelves under the center section of the base frame.
Tips
Be sure all your material for the inside of the torsion box is the same width and thickness before starting, this will save you time and work and make everything fit properly.
Don't get in a hurry, take your time and do a nice job, the workbench is the most noticed piece in your shop, be proud of it.
Have a good drawing and instructions before starting. Know all the elements of the bench top and base. Decide how and what you want it to look like before you start.
Warnings
These torsion boxes are heavy, get help moving and lifting them, the base is also heavy, make your design a size the will not let it overturn when pushing on any edge of the top. Height and width are the issues here.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:12",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Determine the correct proportions.\\nTo build a workbench that is best for you, it must be the right height, width, and length, strong, durable and have features that make it user friendly. These features are things like a good vise or two, being a face vise or an end vise.\\nOther elements that make it user friendly are things that relate to your style of woodworking: boat building or just piddling in the shop. Tool tray, bench dogs, bench slave and cabinets or shelves under the bench. One note here: a woodworking workbench is to work wood, so build it to meet that need. If you add shelves or cabinets below the top; be sure you can still use your bench dogs and hold fasts. You should also be able to use a clamp under the top. Tool trays are handy, but get in the way when you need to add a clamp on both sides of the bench to hold your work. Think about how you will use this bench and what you need to make it work with you. Think about your seven \\\"P's\\\": \\\"Prior proper planning prevents pee poor performance\\\".\\nOne word of caution here: don't build a workbench that is too large for your shop. Be sure you have room to work around the bench. If it is not what works for you, than it's not going to make you happy or productive.\\n1-2. Understand that it will need to be strong, heavy and durable.\\nAll torsion boxes have one thing in common: they have small grids or boxes inside one large box. This grid is what gives the torsion box it's strength. It is also one that will hold its shape and not twist or bend under normal workbench use. But you have to build it to fit the type of work you do and for its intended use. This will determine the size and shape of your torsion box top.\\n1-3. Make a level surface.\\nMaking a level surface to start building is the first step. Level a set of boxes or saw horses or an area large enough for your project. Set rails or long 2x4's on top of them and level those.\\n1-4. Now lay your first sheet of mid grade plywood or MDF on top of the 2x4's.\\nThis will be the bottom of your workbench top, checking again to ensure that all is still level. This will make for a nice flat top when the torsion box is finished.\\nThe 3/4\\\" plywood or MDF should be slightly over-size to the top you want. This lets you lay out lines for your grid pattern and have room to trim it's flush with the main inside box. Lay out lines around the bottom plywood or MDF for the top size less the thickness of the outside hardwood trim boards that will rap around the top when done.\\n1-5. Start laying the inside grid of squares.\\nWith the outside lines laid down, you can start laying out the inside grid or squares on the side of the outline. These squares should be of equal size along the length and width of the top. Here we will be using 1x2 lumber for the inside squares, so allow for the 3/4\\\" thickness of each piece, all the short 1x2's across the width of the top should be the same length as should the long strips. This will ensure a strong and square grid pattern. Note: All the 1x2 lumber should be planed or run through the table saw to ensure they are all the same height.\\n1-6. Build your outside box frame, use the 1x2 lumber, pre-drill holes or use a brad nailer and glue.\\nLay out the outside edge lines of the bench top on the MDF or plywood. Fit the frame together on these lines you laid out. Use screws or brad nails only long enough to pass through the width of the 1x2 and about 3/4 of the way into the plywood or MDF. Check the outside frame to ensure its square, measure from corner to corner in a diagonal manner. This outside frame will be glued and screwed or brad nailed to the bottom plywood or MDF. From here all is dependent on the squareness of the outside frame.\\n1-7. Cut your 1x2 lumber to the proper lengths for the grid, use long pieces the length of the bench and short 1x2's across the width.\\n\\n1-8. Place the short strips at their pre-determined location of the grid against the outside frame along the length of the bench.\\nA carpenters square should be used on each short and long strip to ensure its square. Remove any excess glue, neatness is important to good craftsman like work.\\n1-9. With the short strips in place for the first row, you can now add a long strip in the same manner, glue and screws in pre-drilled holes or brad nails.\\nPlace the long strip into place making sure it touches all the short strips and touching the outside frame at each end. Brad nail at the intersections of the short strips and the long strips. You now have one row of your grid done, check to ensure that all remaining rows will be of the same width across the bottom.\\n1-10. You can now place more short strips into place as you did the first row of short strips, glue and screw or brad nail them in place making sure they are square to the long strip.\\nHere you will have to toenail them to the long strip.\\n1-11. Now you can place another long strip in the same manner as the last long strip and then add the short strips as the previous row with glue screws and or brad nails.\\nUse glue at the intersections where the short strips meet the long strips, this makes everything strong.\\nYour last row of short strips should fit not too tight but touching the last long strip and outside frame as the first row of short strips. Check to ensure everything is square and the last row does not bow the outside frame member out.\\n1-12. Let the glue dry overnight before doing anything else.\\nAfter the grid has set overnight, attach it to the bottom plywood. This is the bottom of your workbench.\\n1-13. When the glue has dried overnight, get help and turn the bottom and grid over placing it back on the 2x4s you used to make a nice flat level surface.\\nCheck to ensure all is still level and square. Lay out lines on the bottom to match the centers lines of the 1x2's on the underside. On these lines you can add brad nails from the outside. This makes for a very strong box.\\n1-14. When the brad nailing on the bottom is complete, you can again turn over the bottom, again check for flatness and square.\\nPlace the top layer of plywood or MDF onto the grid. If you intend to use the torsion box for a very long time and intend to replace the top piece of plywood or MDF when its worn, than don't glue it in place. This can be done by laying out the center lines again for the grid below the top piece. Using pre-drilled holes, screw the top to the grid below, you can use nice brass or bronze screws and let them show for a nice contrast. Steel screws can be used if counter sunk and the holes plugged. Use enough screws into the grid and along the outside edges to make it very secure. No moment or giving of the top here. With this method you can replace the top plywood or MDF and have a new bench top again for very little money.\\n1-15. Once the new torsion box is together, you can trim the outside edges of the top and bottom plywood or MDF flush with the outside edges of the outside 1x2 frame.\\n\\n1-16. The outside trim is a hardwood of 1\\\" to 1-1/2' thick and the width of the thickness of the torsion box.\\nThe . Glue and screw the outside trim into place, do not glue it to the top plywood or MDF. The hardwood outside frame top and bottom outside edges should be rounded over to prevent splintering. Your torsion box is now done and should be about 3\\\" thick by what ever length and width you have chosen.\\n1-17. After rounding over edges and sanding the entire top, you can put a nice oil finish on the torsion box to keep it looking good and prevent any other problems from water or whatever may come in contact with it.\\nOil finishes as 1/2 boiled linseed oil and 1/2 tongue oil,about 3 coats.\\n1-18. You should build a nice strong 2x frame with 3 layers of 2x6 material for legs.\\nThis new torsion box top is not just strong, stiff and durable but heavy and should have a heavy frame to hold it.\\n1-19. The frame for your top can be very inexpensive and still look like a million dollars.\\nAt your local lumberyard, pick out the best 2x6's and 2x8's you can find. The grade and quality of these depend on your budget. Yellow pine is really good for this and still much less than any hardwood.\\n1-20. Trim the outside edge of the 2x6 and 2x8's, cut the rounded edge off, about 1/4\\\"-5/16\\\" will square the edges.\\n\\n1-21. Cut the 2x6's to length for the legs, this is up to you as to how high you want your bench top.\\nIt should be high enough that you don't have to bend over to work and not so high that you have to reach up.\\n1-22. Cut one of the 3 2x6 lamination shorter by the width of the bottom trimmed 2x6 foot and the top trimmed 2x8 rail.\\n\\n1-23. With the 2x6's cut to length and trimmed to width, glue and screw them together making sure you leave the right amount of space for the foot at the bottom and right amount at the top for the top rail.\\nYou can use scrap pieces for this to ensure proper location of the short leg lamination.\\n1-24. Cut 2 trimmed 2x6's the length of the width of the base frame plus about 3\\\" over on each side of the legs.\\nThese pieces are for the foot, they should have a small amount of material removed from the center bottom section of each foot to let it set level.\\n1-25. Glue and lag screw the foot (trimmed 2x6) to the legs at the pre-determined end for the 2x6 foot.\\nUse a framing square to make sure that the legs and foot fit square. This should give you a nice inletted look for the foot. All lag screws should be long enough to pass through the foot/rails and about 2-1/2\\\" into the legs, just don't let go completely through.\\n1-26. The next piece to add is the top rail, this should be just the length of the width of the bottom of your base frame.\\nAs with the foot piece it should also be glued and lag screwed into place. This to should give you an inletted look.\\n1-27. Now that the leg assembly is complete, you can attach the long trimmed 2x8 side rails with glue and lag screws.\\nThese should be the length of your bench less the amount of overhang used for mounting vises. The long side rails should overlap the end rails at the corners of the legs.\\n1-28. A stretcher between the foot pieces can be added if wanted.\\nTwo trimmed 2x4's attached to the top edge of the foot will also make a good base to build shelves or storage cabinets under your new workbench.\\n1-29. The base frame can also have a nice oil finish after rounding any edges that are subject to splintering and sanding it all smooth.\\n\\n1-30. The top torsion box can be placed on top of the base frame and attached with figure eights or you can install cross pieces about 2x3\\\" at the top rails of the base frame.\\nPlacing four pieces, one at each end of the base frame and two more evenly spaced from the ends and pre-drilled for screws to attach the top torsion box.\\nThis inexpensive workbench can have lots of extras as, tool tray added to one side of the torsion box. It can also have vises attached to the overhang end as in a face vise and an end vise. You can add bench dog holes, these should be decided on before building the top torsion box. To have bench dogs in a torsion box, you need to install a trimmed 2x6 one row from the outside edge. This trimmed 2x6 is glued and screwed to the bottom inside and out. Placing screws at locations that will not interfere with the drilling of dog holes.\\nMore features as built in cabinets or shelves under the center section of the base frame.\\nTips\\nBe sure all your material for the inside of the torsion box is the same width and thickness before starting, this will save you time and work and make everything fit properly.\\nDon't get in a hurry, take your time and do a nice job, the workbench is the most noticed piece in your shop, be proud of it.\\nHave a good drawing and instructions before starting. Know all the elements of the bench top and base. Decide how and what you want it to look like before you start.\\nWarnings\\nThese torsion boxes are heavy, get help moving and lifting them, the base is also heavy, make your design a size the will not let it overturn when pushing on any edge of the top. Height and width are the issues here.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This is an article to help the guy who is not ready to buy that $3,000 workbench. It is aimed at building a workbench that is useful, durable and good looking, all with inexpensive material - which makes it within the reach of almost everyone.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the correct proportions.\", \"描述\": \"To build a workbench that is best for you, it must be the right height, width, and length, strong, durable and have features that make it user friendly. These features are things like a good vise or two, being a face vise or an end vise.\\nOther elements that make it user friendly are things that relate to your style of woodworking: boat building or just piddling in the shop. Tool tray, bench dogs, bench slave and cabinets or shelves under the bench. One note here: a woodworking workbench is to work wood, so build it to meet that need. If you add shelves or cabinets below the top; be sure you can still use your bench dogs and hold fasts. You should also be able to use a clamp under the top. Tool trays are handy, but get in the way when you need to add a clamp on both sides of the bench to hold your work. Think about how you will use this bench and what you need to make it work with you. Think about your seven \\\"P's\\\": \\\"Prior proper planning prevents pee poor performance\\\".\\nOne word of caution here: don't build a workbench that is too large for your shop. Be sure you have room to work around the bench. If it is not what works for you, than it's not going to make you happy or productive.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Understand that it will need to be strong, heavy and durable.\", \"描述\": \"All torsion boxes have one thing in common: they have small grids or boxes inside one large box. This grid is what gives the torsion box it's strength. It is also one that will hold its shape and not twist or bend under normal workbench use. But you have to build it to fit the type of work you do and for its intended use. This will determine the size and shape of your torsion box top.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a level surface.\", \"描述\": \"Making a level surface to start building is the first step. Level a set of boxes or saw horses or an area large enough for your project. Set rails or long 2x4's on top of them and level those.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Now lay your first sheet of mid grade plywood or MDF on top of the 2x4's.\", \"描述\": \"This will be the bottom of your workbench top, checking again to ensure that all is still level. This will make for a nice flat top when the torsion box is finished.\\nThe 3/4\\\" plywood or MDF should be slightly over-size to the top you want. This lets you lay out lines for your grid pattern and have room to trim it's flush with the main inside box. Lay out lines around the bottom plywood or MDF for the top size less the thickness of the outside hardwood trim boards that will rap around the top when done.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Start laying the inside grid of squares.\", \"描述\": \"With the outside lines laid down, you can start laying out the inside grid or squares on the side of the outline. These squares should be of equal size along the length and width of the top. Here we will be using 1x2 lumber for the inside squares, so allow for the 3/4\\\" thickness of each piece, all the short 1x2's across the width of the top should be the same length as should the long strips. This will ensure a strong and square grid pattern. Note: All the 1x2 lumber should be planed or run through the table saw to ensure they are all the same height.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build your outside box frame, use the 1x2 lumber, pre-drill holes or use a brad nailer and glue.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out the outside edge lines of the bench top on the MDF or plywood. Fit the frame together on these lines you laid out. Use screws or brad nails only long enough to pass through the width of the 1x2 and about 3/4 of the way into the plywood or MDF. Check the outside frame to ensure its square, measure from corner to corner in a diagonal manner. This outside frame will be glued and screwed or brad nailed to the bottom plywood or MDF. From here all is dependent on the squareness of the outside frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut your 1x2 lumber to the proper lengths for the grid, use long pieces the length of the bench and short 1x2's across the width.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Place the short strips at their pre-determined location of the grid against the outside frame along the length of the bench.\", \"描述\": \"A carpenters square should be used on each short and long strip to ensure its square. Remove any excess glue, neatness is important to good craftsman like work.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"With the short strips in place for the first row, you can now add a long strip in the same manner, glue and screws in pre-drilled holes or brad nails.\", \"描述\": \"Place the long strip into place making sure it touches all the short strips and touching the outside frame at each end. Brad nail at the intersections of the short strips and the long strips. You now have one row of your grid done, check to ensure that all remaining rows will be of the same width across the bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"You can now place more short strips into place as you did the first row of short strips, glue and screw or brad nail them in place making sure they are square to the long strip.\", \"描述\": \"Here you will have to toenail them to the long strip.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Now you can place another long strip in the same manner as the last long strip and then add the short strips as the previous row with glue screws and or brad nails.\", \"描述\": \"Use glue at the intersections where the short strips meet the long strips, this makes everything strong.\\nYour last row of short strips should fit not too tight but touching the last long strip and outside frame as the first row of short strips. Check to ensure everything is square and the last row does not bow the outside frame member out.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Let the glue dry overnight before doing anything else.\", \"描述\": \"After the grid has set overnight, attach it to the bottom plywood. This is the bottom of your workbench.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"When the glue has dried overnight, get help and turn the bottom and grid over placing it back on the 2x4s you used to make a nice flat level surface.\", \"描述\": \"Check to ensure all is still level and square. Lay out lines on the bottom to match the centers lines of the 1x2's on the underside. On these lines you can add brad nails from the outside. This makes for a very strong box.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"When the brad nailing on the bottom is complete, you can again turn over the bottom, again check for flatness and square.\", \"描述\": \"Place the top layer of plywood or MDF onto the grid. If you intend to use the torsion box for a very long time and intend to replace the top piece of plywood or MDF when its worn, than don't glue it in place. This can be done by laying out the center lines again for the grid below the top piece. Using pre-drilled holes, screw the top to the grid below, you can use nice brass or bronze screws and let them show for a nice contrast. Steel screws can be used if counter sunk and the holes plugged. Use enough screws into the grid and along the outside edges to make it very secure. No moment or giving of the top here. With this method you can replace the top plywood or MDF and have a new bench top again for very little money.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Once the new torsion box is together, you can trim the outside edges of the top and bottom plywood or MDF flush with the outside edges of the outside 1x2 frame.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"The outside trim is a hardwood of 1\\\" to 1-1/2' thick and the width of the thickness of the torsion box.\", \"描述\": \"The . Glue and screw the outside trim into place, do not glue it to the top plywood or MDF. The hardwood outside frame top and bottom outside edges should be rounded over to prevent splintering. Your torsion box is now done and should be about 3\\\" thick by what ever length and width you have chosen.\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"After rounding over edges and sanding the entire top, you can put a nice oil finish on the torsion box to keep it looking good and prevent any other problems from water or whatever may come in contact with it.\", \"描述\": \"Oil finishes as 1/2 boiled linseed oil and 1/2 tongue oil,about 3 coats.\"}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"You should build a nice strong 2x frame with 3 layers of 2x6 material for legs.\", \"描述\": \"This new torsion box top is not just strong, stiff and durable but heavy and should have a heavy frame to hold it.\"}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"The frame for your top can be very inexpensive and still look like a million dollars.\", \"描述\": \"At your local lumberyard, pick out the best 2x6's and 2x8's you can find. The grade and quality of these depend on your budget. Yellow pine is really good for this and still much less than any hardwood.\"}, {\"编号\": 20, \"标题\": \"Trim the outside edge of the 2x6 and 2x8's, cut the rounded edge off, about 1/4\\\"-5/16\\\" will square the edges.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 21, \"标题\": \"Cut the 2x6's to length for the legs, this is up to you as to how high you want your bench top.\", \"描述\": \"It should be high enough that you don't have to bend over to work and not so high that you have to reach up.\"}, {\"编号\": 22, \"标题\": \"Cut one of the 3 2x6 lamination shorter by the width of the bottom trimmed 2x6 foot and the top trimmed 2x8 rail.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 23, \"标题\": \"With the 2x6's cut to length and trimmed to width, glue and screw them together making sure you leave the right amount of space for the foot at the bottom and right amount at the top for the top rail.\", \"描述\": \"You can use scrap pieces for this to ensure proper location of the short leg lamination.\"}, {\"编号\": 24, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 trimmed 2x6's the length of the width of the base frame plus about 3\\\" over on each side of the legs.\", \"描述\": \"These pieces are for the foot, they should have a small amount of material removed from the center bottom section of each foot to let it set level.\"}, {\"编号\": 25, \"标题\": \"Glue and lag screw the foot (trimmed 2x6) to the legs at the pre-determined end for the 2x6 foot.\", \"描述\": \"Use a framing square to make sure that the legs and foot fit square. This should give you a nice inletted look for the foot. All lag screws should be long enough to pass through the foot/rails and about 2-1/2\\\" into the legs, just don't let go completely through.\"}, {\"编号\": 26, \"标题\": \"The next piece to add is the top rail, this should be just the length of the width of the bottom of your base frame.\", \"描述\": \"As with the foot piece it should also be glued and lag screwed into place. This to should give you an inletted look.\"}, {\"编号\": 27, \"标题\": \"Now that the leg assembly is complete, you can attach the long trimmed 2x8 side rails with glue and lag screws.\", \"描述\": \"These should be the length of your bench less the amount of overhang used for mounting vises. The long side rails should overlap the end rails at the corners of the legs.\"}, {\"编号\": 28, \"标题\": \"A stretcher between the foot pieces can be added if wanted.\", \"描述\": \"Two trimmed 2x4's attached to the top edge of the foot will also make a good base to build shelves or storage cabinets under your new workbench.\"}, {\"编号\": 29, \"标题\": \"The base frame can also have a nice oil finish after rounding any edges that are subject to splintering and sanding it all smooth.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 30, \"标题\": \"The top torsion box can be placed on top of the base frame and attached with figure eights or you can install cross pieces about 2x3\\\" at the top rails of the base frame.\", \"描述\": \"Placing four pieces, one at each end of the base frame and two more evenly spaced from the ends and pre-drilled for screws to attach the top torsion box.\\nThis inexpensive workbench can have lots of extras as, tool tray added to one side of the torsion box. It can also have vises attached to the overhang end as in a face vise and an end vise. You can add bench dog holes, these should be decided on before building the top torsion box. To have bench dogs in a torsion box, you need to install a trimmed 2x6 one row from the outside edge. This trimmed 2x6 is glued and screwed to the bottom inside and out. Placing screws at locations that will not interfere with the drilling of dog holes.\\nMore features as built in cabinets or shelves under the center section of the base frame.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Be sure all your material for the inside of the torsion box is the same width and thickness before starting, this will save you time and work and make everything fit properly.\\n\", \"Don't get in a hurry, take your time and do a nice job, the workbench is the most noticed piece in your shop, be proud of it.\\n\", \"Have a good drawing and instructions before starting. Know all the elements of the bench top and base. Decide how and what you want it to look like before you start.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"These torsion boxes are heavy, get help moving and lifting them, the base is also heavy, make your design a size the will not let it overturn when pushing on any edge of the top. Height and width are the issues here.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,596 |
How to Build a Tower of Cards
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1. Steps
1-1. Get out a deck of cards.
It should be a relatively new deck - old, flimsy cards that are creased and folded will not fare well, but neither will a totally brand new slippery deck; see Tips. An interesting design usually adds a nice touch as well.
1-2. Select 2 cards from the deck.
Place them so that they are about 2 inches (5 cm) apart from each other at the base, and lean them together into an upside-down "V". The "/\", or apex, should balance independently when placed down on the surface.
1-3. Construct another apex beside the first; place about 1cm of space between them.
1-4. Place a card horizontally on top of the two points.
1-5. Construct another apex on top of the card laid horizontally.
Now you have a second story.
1-6. Add another apex next to the two existing points and repeat the process.
Make the base three points wide and you will have the potential of going three stories tall, make your base four points wide for going four stories tall, and so on.
1-7. Finished.
Tips
If you have a friend who is willing to help you build your card tower, that's great. As you try to build higher card towers, it's helpful to have someone brace the points that are already constructed on the row that you are on.
Relax and be patient! If you rush things, you might make it fall down, or construct weak foundations.
Try to get a surface that is not too slippery, the cards will just slide around. Work on a carpet away from most moving things.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:12",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Get out a deck of cards.\\nIt should be a relatively new deck - old, flimsy cards that are creased and folded will not fare well, but neither will a totally brand new slippery deck; see Tips. An interesting design usually adds a nice touch as well.\\n1-2. Select 2 cards from the deck.\\nPlace them so that they are about 2 inches (5 cm) apart from each other at the base, and lean them together into an upside-down \\\"V\\\". The \\\"/\\\\\\\", or apex, should balance independently when placed down on the surface.\\n1-3. Construct another apex beside the first; place about 1cm of space between them.\\n\\n1-4. Place a card horizontally on top of the two points.\\n\\n1-5. Construct another apex on top of the card laid horizontally.\\nNow you have a second story.\\n1-6. Add another apex next to the two existing points and repeat the process.\\nMake the base three points wide and you will have the potential of going three stories tall, make your base four points wide for going four stories tall, and so on.\\n1-7. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nIf you have a friend who is willing to help you build your card tower, that's great. As you try to build higher card towers, it's helpful to have someone brace the points that are already constructed on the row that you are on.\\nRelax and be patient! If you rush things, you might make it fall down, or construct weak foundations.\\nTry to get a surface that is not too slippery, the cards will just slide around. Work on a carpet away from most moving things.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"With the right technique and enough patience, you can build a three, four, or even a five-story card tower with just one deck of cards. Whether it's in the comfort of your own home or an elaborate party trick, it's sure to be impressive with the right technique.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get out a deck of cards.\", \"描述\": \"It should be a relatively new deck - old, flimsy cards that are creased and folded will not fare well, but neither will a totally brand new slippery deck; see Tips. An interesting design usually adds a nice touch as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Select 2 cards from the deck.\", \"描述\": \"Place them so that they are about 2 inches (5 cm) apart from each other at the base, and lean them together into an upside-down \\\"V\\\". The \\\"/\\\\\\\", or apex, should balance independently when placed down on the surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Construct another apex beside the first; place about 1cm of space between them.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place a card horizontally on top of the two points.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Construct another apex on top of the card laid horizontally.\", \"描述\": \"Now you have a second story.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add another apex next to the two existing points and repeat the process.\", \"描述\": \"Make the base three points wide and you will have the potential of going three stories tall, make your base four points wide for going four stories tall, and so on.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you have a friend who is willing to help you build your card tower, that's great. As you try to build higher card towers, it's helpful to have someone brace the points that are already constructed on the row that you are on.\\n\", \"Relax and be patient! If you rush things, you might make it fall down, or construct weak foundations.\\n\", \"Try to get a surface that is not too slippery, the cards will just slide around. Work on a carpet away from most moving things.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,597 |
How to Build a Tray Ceiling
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1. Steps
1-1. Attach drywall to the entire ceiling.
Cut drywall to size with a sharp utility knife and a straightedge. Smoothen the edges of the drywall with coarse sandpaper and a sanding block.
Utilize homemade 2-by-4 T-braces to assist yourself and a partner when installing the drywall. Rent a cradle lift for assistance if you are installing the drywall panels yourself.
Nail the drywall into place, leaving 6-inch (15 cm) intervals between the nails. Dimple the drywall by giving the nail an extra hit to break the surface material.
1-2. Tape the joints and use joint compound over the tape and nail dimples.
Let the compound dry for about 24 hours, then apply a second and third coat.
1-3. Feather the edges of the drywall with medium-grit sandpaper and a sanding block.
1-4. Tape the corners and areas where the walls meet the ceiling.
Apply joint compound and sandpaper.
1-5. Determine the width of the lowered area.
Tray ceilings are made by adding a lower rim to the ceiling, rather than removing material from the center. The width of this rim is typically 1 or 2 feet (0.30 or 0.61 m) (30 to 61 cm), depending on the dimensions of the room.
1-6. Determine the shape of the lowered area.
The shape of the lowered area on a tray ceiling often mimics the shape of the surrounding walls, although you can use a more intricate design. Use a chalk snap line to mark this outline.
1-7. Frame the outlined area with 1-1/2-inch-thick (3.8 cm) furring strips.
Secure the furring with glue and nails.
1-8. Attach 1/2-inch-thick (13 mm) drywall to the furring to cover the space from the edge of the wall to the edge of the furring strips.
1-9. Let the walls dry for a few days.
Wait as long as the manufacturer of your joint compound recommends.
1-10. Bridge the lowered section of ceiling to the upper level with a 3-inch-wide (7.6 cm) vinyl bead.
The bead runs around the perimeter of the outline at an angle.
Snap chalk to outline where the edge of the vinyl meets the upper level of ceiling.
Apply adhesive caulk to secure the bead in place.
Staple the vinyl bead where it meets the lowered section.
Attach the longer vinyl beads first.
1-11. Conceal the edges and seams of the drywall with joint compound.
1-12. Sandpaper the area and coat it with primer.
1-13. Apply more caulk to the edges as necessary.
1-14. Paint the ceiling.
Painting the lowered section of ceiling a few shades darker than the upper ceiling can enhance the contrast between levels.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:12",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Attach drywall to the entire ceiling.\\nCut drywall to size with a sharp utility knife and a straightedge. Smoothen the edges of the drywall with coarse sandpaper and a sanding block.\\nUtilize homemade 2-by-4 T-braces to assist yourself and a partner when installing the drywall. Rent a cradle lift for assistance if you are installing the drywall panels yourself.\\nNail the drywall into place, leaving 6-inch (15 cm) intervals between the nails. Dimple the drywall by giving the nail an extra hit to break the surface material.\\n1-2. Tape the joints and use joint compound over the tape and nail dimples.\\nLet the compound dry for about 24 hours, then apply a second and third coat.\\n1-3. Feather the edges of the drywall with medium-grit sandpaper and a sanding block.\\n\\n1-4. Tape the corners and areas where the walls meet the ceiling.\\nApply joint compound and sandpaper.\\n1-5. Determine the width of the lowered area.\\nTray ceilings are made by adding a lower rim to the ceiling, rather than removing material from the center. The width of this rim is typically 1 or 2 feet (0.30 or 0.61 m) (30 to 61 cm), depending on the dimensions of the room.\\n1-6. Determine the shape of the lowered area.\\nThe shape of the lowered area on a tray ceiling often mimics the shape of the surrounding walls, although you can use a more intricate design. Use a chalk snap line to mark this outline.\\n1-7. Frame the outlined area with 1-1/2-inch-thick (3.8 cm) furring strips.\\nSecure the furring with glue and nails.\\n1-8. Attach 1/2-inch-thick (13 mm) drywall to the furring to cover the space from the edge of the wall to the edge of the furring strips.\\n\\n1-9. Let the walls dry for a few days.\\nWait as long as the manufacturer of your joint compound recommends.\\n1-10. Bridge the lowered section of ceiling to the upper level with a 3-inch-wide (7.6 cm) vinyl bead.\\nThe bead runs around the perimeter of the outline at an angle.\\nSnap chalk to outline where the edge of the vinyl meets the upper level of ceiling.\\nApply adhesive caulk to secure the bead in place.\\nStaple the vinyl bead where it meets the lowered section.\\nAttach the longer vinyl beads first.\\n1-11. Conceal the edges and seams of the drywall with joint compound.\\n\\n1-12. Sandpaper the area and coat it with primer.\\n\\n1-13. Apply more caulk to the edges as necessary.\\n\\n1-14. Paint the ceiling.\\nPainting the lowered section of ceiling a few shades darker than the upper ceiling can enhance the contrast between levels.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Adding a tray ceiling to a room can create the illusion of spaciousness, or give the impression that a ceiling is higher than it actually is. Many people also apply tray ceilings simply for decorative purposes. Follow these instructions to build a tray ceiling in your home.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach drywall to the entire ceiling.\", \"描述\": \"Cut drywall to size with a sharp utility knife and a straightedge. Smoothen the edges of the drywall with coarse sandpaper and a sanding block.\\nUtilize homemade 2-by-4 T-braces to assist yourself and a partner when installing the drywall. Rent a cradle lift for assistance if you are installing the drywall panels yourself.\\nNail the drywall into place, leaving 6-inch (15 cm) intervals between the nails. Dimple the drywall by giving the nail an extra hit to break the surface material.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tape the joints and use joint compound over the tape and nail dimples.\", \"描述\": \"Let the compound dry for about 24 hours, then apply a second and third coat.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Feather the edges of the drywall with medium-grit sandpaper and a sanding block.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tape the corners and areas where the walls meet the ceiling.\", \"描述\": \"Apply joint compound and sandpaper.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Determine the width of the lowered area.\", \"描述\": \"Tray ceilings are made by adding a lower rim to the ceiling, rather than removing material from the center. The width of this rim is typically 1 or 2 feet (0.30 or 0.61 m) (30 to 61 cm), depending on the dimensions of the room.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Determine the shape of the lowered area.\", \"描述\": \"The shape of the lowered area on a tray ceiling often mimics the shape of the surrounding walls, although you can use a more intricate design. Use a chalk snap line to mark this outline.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Frame the outlined area with 1-1/2-inch-thick (3.8 cm) furring strips.\", \"描述\": \"Secure the furring with glue and nails.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach 1/2-inch-thick (13 mm) drywall to the furring to cover the space from the edge of the wall to the edge of the furring strips.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Let the walls dry for a few days.\", \"描述\": \"Wait as long as the manufacturer of your joint compound recommends.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Bridge the lowered section of ceiling to the upper level with a 3-inch-wide (7.6 cm) vinyl bead.\", \"描述\": \"The bead runs around the perimeter of the outline at an angle.\\nSnap chalk to outline where the edge of the vinyl meets the upper level of ceiling.\\nApply adhesive caulk to secure the bead in place.\\nStaple the vinyl bead where it meets the lowered section.\\nAttach the longer vinyl beads first.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Conceal the edges and seams of the drywall with joint compound.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Sandpaper the area and coat it with primer.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Apply more caulk to the edges as necessary.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Paint the ceiling.\", \"描述\": \"Painting the lowered section of ceiling a few shades darker than the upper ceiling can enhance the contrast between levels.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,598 |
How to Build a Trebuchet
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1. Planning
1-1. Decide where you will use your trebuchet.
This will determine what size of trebuchet you’ll want to make and what materials make it out of.
If you plan to use your trebuchet indoors, you’ll want to make a small trebuchet. You can make a wooden trebuchet with a base about 12 inches (30 cm) and a swing arm of about 16 inches (40 cm) or a smaller and lighter model out of popsicle sticks.
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If you plan to use your trebuchet outdoors, you’ll want to make a larger trebuchet. A backyard trebuchet could be made of wood or PVC pipe with a 24-inch (60 cm) base and a 32-inch (80 cm) swing arm. A trebuchet to demonstrate at a Renaissance faire could be several times larger than this, if you have sufficient space to launch its projectiles, but you’d have to design it to be taken apart for transport and reassembled on site unless you have a pickup or trailer to haul it around in.
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The instructions in the section “Building Your Trebuchet” are written for building a trebuchet using pieces of wood. You can adapt them to whatever building material you choose to use.
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1-2. Consider what you want to launch with your trebuchet.
This will have an impact on what material you make your trebuchet from, how large and durable your sling must be, and how heavy a counterweight you should obtain.
An indoor trebuchet could launch grapes, paper wads, or Nerf balls, while an outdoor trebuchet could launch water balloons, tennis balls (perfect for Renfaire mixed doubles), golf balls (for Renfaire golf), clay balls, ball bearings, croquet balls, billiard balls, or even actual rocks. (Medieval trebuchets launched not only rocks, but also chunks of burning pitch and dead horse carcasses, a Middle Ages form of chemical warfare.)
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Whatever you decide you want to launch with your trebuchet, your counterweight should be from 100 to 133 times the weight of your projectile. If you want to launch items of various weights, you can set up your trebuchet with a bucket or bag to hold and adjust the counterweight. (If you use a bucket, its weight forms part of the overall counterweight.)
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2. Building
2-1. Cut and sand the frame pieces and swing arm.
For an indoor trebuchet, you can use 1 x 6-inch (2.5 x 15 cm) planking. For an outdoor trebuchet, you can use 2 x 4-inch (5 x 10 cm) planking. You’ll need to cut 8 pieces:
Two long base pieces. For a small trebuchet, you may want to make them 1 foot (30 cm) long; for a larger trebuchet, they can be longer.
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Two uprights. These should be about 5/6 the length of the base pieces or as long as the base pieces, but no longer. If you made the long base pieces 1 foot (30 cm) long, they would be 10 to 12 inches (24 to 30 cm) long.
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Three cross pieces. These can be 1/2 the length of either the uprights or of the long base pieces. You want the trebuchet to be fairly narrow to ensure that it throws its projectiles in a straight line.
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One swing arm, or beam. This piece should be 1 1/3 times the length of the base pieces; if the base pieces are 1 foot (30 cm) long, the swing arm should be 16 inches (40 cm) long.
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2-2. Cut and sand the support braces.
The simplest way to make these is from a piece of plywood at least 1/4 inch (6.25 mm) thick. It should be 1/2 the length of either the uprights or the long base pieces. Draw a line from one corner of the square to the other and cut along this line, making a pair of right triangles.
If you prefer, you can design the support braces to look like isosceles triangles so that they will slope on both sides of the uprights when assembled.
2-3. Obtain an axle.
You’ll need either a metal bar or wooden dowel the same length as one of the cross pieces or slightly longer. The bar should be strong enough to stand up to the weight of the swing arm, the weights you plan to launch, and your counterweight.
A piece of rebar would make the strongest axle, but you can also use a screwdriver blade or the axle from a wheeled garbage can. For a small enough trebuchet, you can use the axle from a toy car. When you decide what to use as your axle, measure its diameter.
2-4. Attach the uprights to the long base pieces.
Measure 1/4 of the distance from one end of one of the long base pieces, and mark it. Place an end of one of the uprights against this mark and glue it in place, then reinforce the connection with nails or screws. Repeat for the second base piece and upright, using the first as a guide.
2-5. Attach the braces to the assembled base pieces and uprights.
Lay one of the assembled pieces down and lay a brace over it, flush with the bottom of the base piece and back edge of the upright and sloping toward the long end of the base piece. Glue the brace in place and reinforce it with nails or screws.
Repeat this process for the other assembled piece and brace, but this time point the long end of the base and the brace’s hypotenuse in the other direction.
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For a large trebuchet, you may instead want to cut lengths of planking to serve as braces instead of using plywood sheeting, and either cut the edges at an angle or use two pieces on each side to make a rectangular brace.
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2-6. Drill holes near the top of the uprights.
When you assemble the base, you’ll thread an axle through these holes for the swing arm to turn on.
Mark the drill holes about 1/10 of the way down from the top. You’ll want to use a drill bit that’s the same diameter or only slightly larger than the diameter of the axle.
2-7. Drill holes into the swing arm.
You’ll want to have the primary hole 1/4 of the way from one end to the other, with secondary holes on either side of it. (This will allow you to adjust the fulcrum point of the swing arm.)
When drilling holes through the swing arm, use the bit the next diameter larger than that of the axle or possibly even 2 sizes larger. The swing arm should turn freely on the axle without wobbling.
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Space the secondary holes out far enough that they won’t break out and form a larger hole would allow the swing arm to slip if threaded through it.
2-8. Attach eye hooks to either end of the swing arm.
These eye hooks are what you will attach the sling and counterweight to, respectively.
The eye hook for the sling will go on the end furthest from where you drilled the holes. It should be open to serve as a release pin, allowing one end of the sling to open and allow the swing arm to hurl the projectile forward. To keep the sling from opening too soon, drive a nail into the end, partially covering the release pin.
Cut the head off the nail to keep the sling from catching.
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The eye hook for the counterweight should be closed, unless you plan to change the counterweight often. Even then, you may want to attach a carabiner or split ring to the counterweight eye hook.
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2-9. Assemble the trebuchet frame.
Connect the 3 cross pieces to the long base pieces using glue, nails, screws, or bolts, depending on the size of your trebuchet. One of the cross pieces should be at each end of the frame, with the third just ahead of the uprights.
For a tabletop trebuchet, you may want to attach a piece of posterboard or cardboard to the bottom of the frame to protect the surface the trebuchet rests on when firing it.
2-10. Mount the swing arm.
Place the arm between the uprights with the long end of the arm toward the short end of the frame and the nail over the hook pointing up. Thread the axle through the hole in one of the uprights, then through one of the holes in the swing arm, and finally through the hole in the other upright.
The throwing side of the swing arm should rest on the short side of the trebuchet frame because the force generated when it moves will thrust the frame downward. If this thrust falls on the short side of the frame, it could pitch the trebuchet forward.
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The nail should be pointing up to ensure that the sling will open without coming off the swing arm entirely.
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If the axle extends past the frame, you may wish to affix cotter pins or caps to its ends to keep it from slipping out when you launch projectiles.
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2-11. Paint and decorate the trebuchet.
If your trebuchet is made of wood, paint will help preserve it, particularly if you plan to keep it outdoors when not in use. You can decorate the support braces with a historic flag, your family crest, or the logo of your SCA or Amtgard chapter.
2-12. Make the sling.
Take a piece of heavy cloth (or burlap, for a very large trebuchet) and fold it in half. Gather the corners on the two sides together and tie them with string, cord, or rope, forming a pouch. Tie loops in the loose ends of the string so you can slip them over the hook on the launching side of the swing arm.
If you like, you can tie the string holding the sling to the trebuchet directly to the hook and tie the other end to a loop of thin wire to make it easier to slide off the hook when launching the projectile. You can also tie both string ends to wire loops to make it easier to put the sling on and remove it from the hook.
3. Using
3-1. Mount the sling on the launching hook.
Slip the end of one of the sling strings over the hook, unless you chose to tie it to the hook.
3-2. Load the projectile into the sling.
Once you do, slip the other cord of the sling over the launching hook.
3-3. Prepare the counterweight.
You can use a single heavy item as the counterweight or a number of smaller items, contained in a bag or bucket.
3-4. Attach the counterweight to the trebuchet.
3-5. Release the counterweight.
The weight will pull the short end of the arm down and the long end up. The sudden acceleration will swing the projectile backward in the sling, causing one end of the sling to slip off the hook and propel the projectile forward.
If your trebuchet releases the projectile too soon, the projectile could fly upward or even backward. If it releases too late, the projectile will slam into the ground in front of the trebuchet. You can control the point at which the sling opens and the projectile releases by bending the release pin nail: bend it more if the projectile flies too high and bend it less if the projectile flies too low.
If you have trouble with the trebuchet releasing the projectile at the right time, you can adjust the weight of the counterweight or remount the swing arm through a different hole.
Tips
If you find the trebuchet’s sling too awkward to bother with, you can replace the sling and its hook with a scoop-shaped bucket. (The bowl on an ice cream scoop would work well for a smaller-sized catapult.) This turns your trebuchet into a mangonel, also called an onager after the wild donkey whose kicking the catapult’s recoil reminded its creators of.[14]
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If your trebuchet is small enough, you can launch the projectile by sharply pulling down on the short end of the swing arm instead of using a counterweight. This form of trebuchet, a traction trebuchet,[15]
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is similar to how you throw the pelota (ball) in jai alai using a curved cesta, how you launch a spear using an atl-atl, or even how you cast a fishing lure.
Some trebuchets feature a trough underneath the swing arm to rest the sling on when loading the projectile into it and help guide the projectile during launch.[16]
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Warnings
Use only soft projectiles for an indoor trebuchet, and for an outdoor trebuchet, make sure to have a wide open space in front of the siege engine. Also, stand or sit to the side when launching projectiles with it.
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"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning\\n1-1. Decide where you will use your trebuchet.\\nThis will determine what size of trebuchet you’ll want to make and what materials make it out of.\\nIf you plan to use your trebuchet indoors, you’ll want to make a small trebuchet. You can make a wooden trebuchet with a base about 12 inches (30 cm) and a swing arm of about 16 inches (40 cm) or a smaller and lighter model out of popsicle sticks.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2d\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2d\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nIf you plan to use your trebuchet outdoors, you’ll want to make a larger trebuchet. A backyard trebuchet could be made of wood or PVC pipe with a 24-inch (60 cm) base and a 32-inch (80 cm) swing arm. A trebuchet to demonstrate at a Renaissance faire could be several times larger than this, if you have sufficient space to launch its projectiles, but you’d have to design it to be taken apart for transport and reassembled on site unless you have a pickup or trailer to haul it around in.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c4\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c4\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe instructions in the section “Building Your Trebuchet” are written for building a trebuchet using pieces of wood. You can adapt them to whatever building material you choose to use.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f8\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f8\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-2. Consider what you want to launch with your trebuchet.\\nThis will have an impact on what material you make your trebuchet from, how large and durable your sling must be, and how heavy a counterweight you should obtain.\\nAn indoor trebuchet could launch grapes, paper wads, or Nerf balls, while an outdoor trebuchet could launch water balloons, tennis balls (perfect for Renfaire mixed doubles), golf balls (for Renfaire golf), clay balls, ball bearings, croquet balls, billiard balls, or even actual rocks. (Medieval trebuchets launched not only rocks, but also chunks of burning pitch and dead horse carcasses, a Middle Ages form of chemical warfare.)\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2d\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2d\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nWhatever you decide you want to launch with your trebuchet, your counterweight should be from 100 to 133 times the weight of your projectile. If you want to launch items of various weights, you can set up your trebuchet with a bucket or bag to hold and adjust the counterweight. (If you use a bucket, its weight forms part of the overall counterweight.)\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n2. Building\\n2-1. Cut and sand the frame pieces and swing arm.\\nFor an indoor trebuchet, you can use 1 x 6-inch (2.5 x 15 cm) planking. For an outdoor trebuchet, you can use 2 x 4-inch (5 x 10 cm) planking. You’ll need to cut 8 pieces:\\nTwo long base pieces. For a small trebuchet, you may want to make them 1 foot (30 cm) long; for a larger trebuchet, they can be longer.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/09\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/09\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nTwo uprights. These should be about 5/6 the length of the base pieces or as long as the base pieces, but no longer. If you made the long base pieces 1 foot (30 cm) long, they would be 10 to 12 inches (24 to 30 cm) long.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/33\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/33\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThree cross pieces. These can be 1/2 the length of either the uprights or of the long base pieces. You want the trebuchet to be fairly narrow to ensure that it throws its projectiles in a straight line.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/40\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/40\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nOne swing arm, or beam. This piece should be 1 1/3 times the length of the base pieces; if the base pieces are 1 foot (30 cm) long, the swing arm should be 16 inches (40 cm) long.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7b\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7b\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet4.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n2-2. Cut and sand the support braces.\\nThe simplest way to make these is from a piece of plywood at least 1/4 inch (6.25 mm) thick. It should be 1/2 the length of either the uprights or the long base pieces. Draw a line from one corner of the square to the other and cut along this line, making a pair of right triangles.\\nIf you prefer, you can design the support braces to look like isosceles triangles so that they will slope on both sides of the uprights when assembled.\\n2-3. Obtain an axle.\\nYou’ll need either a metal bar or wooden dowel the same length as one of the cross pieces or slightly longer. The bar should be strong enough to stand up to the weight of the swing arm, the weights you plan to launch, and your counterweight.\\nA piece of rebar would make the strongest axle, but you can also use a screwdriver blade or the axle from a wheeled garbage can. For a small enough trebuchet, you can use the axle from a toy car. When you decide what to use as your axle, measure its diameter.\\n2-4. Attach the uprights to the long base pieces.\\nMeasure 1/4 of the distance from one end of one of the long base pieces, and mark it. Place an end of one of the uprights against this mark and glue it in place, then reinforce the connection with nails or screws. Repeat for the second base piece and upright, using the first as a guide.\\n2-5. Attach the braces to the assembled base pieces and uprights.\\nLay one of the assembled pieces down and lay a brace over it, flush with the bottom of the base piece and back edge of the upright and sloping toward the long end of the base piece. Glue the brace in place and reinforce it with nails or screws.\\nRepeat this process for the other assembled piece and brace, but this time point the long end of the base and the brace’s hypotenuse in the other direction.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/21\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/21\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nFor a large trebuchet, you may instead want to cut lengths of planking to serve as braces instead of using plywood sheeting, and either cut the edges at an angle or use two pieces on each side to make a rectangular brace.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/ef\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/ef\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n2-6. Drill holes near the top of the uprights.\\nWhen you assemble the base, you’ll thread an axle through these holes for the swing arm to turn on.\\nMark the drill holes about 1/10 of the way down from the top. You’ll want to use a drill bit that’s the same diameter or only slightly larger than the diameter of the axle.\\n2-7. Drill holes into the swing arm.\\nYou’ll want to have the primary hole 1/4 of the way from one end to the other, with secondary holes on either side of it. (This will allow you to adjust the fulcrum point of the swing arm.)\\nWhen drilling holes through the swing arm, use the bit the next diameter larger than that of the axle or possibly even 2 sizes larger. The swing arm should turn freely on the axle without wobbling.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/ae\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-9Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-9Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/ae\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-9Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-9Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSpace the secondary holes out far enough that they won’t break out and form a larger hole would allow the swing arm to slip if threaded through it.\\n2-8. Attach eye hooks to either end of the swing arm.\\nThese eye hooks are what you will attach the sling and counterweight to, respectively.\\nThe eye hook for the sling will go on the end furthest from where you drilled the holes. It should be open to serve as a release pin, allowing one end of the sling to open and allow the swing arm to hurl the projectile forward. To keep the sling from opening too soon, drive a nail into the end, partially covering the release pin.\\nCut the head off the nail to keep the sling from catching.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d4\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d4\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe eye hook for the counterweight should be closed, unless you plan to change the counterweight often. Even then, you may want to attach a carabiner or split ring to the counterweight eye hook.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/81\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/81\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n2-9. Assemble the trebuchet frame.\\nConnect the 3 cross pieces to the long base pieces using glue, nails, screws, or bolts, depending on the size of your trebuchet. One of the cross pieces should be at each end of the frame, with the third just ahead of the uprights.\\nFor a tabletop trebuchet, you may want to attach a piece of posterboard or cardboard to the bottom of the frame to protect the surface the trebuchet rests on when firing it.\\n2-10. Mount the swing arm.\\nPlace the arm between the uprights with the long end of the arm toward the short end of the frame and the nail over the hook pointing up. Thread the axle through the hole in one of the uprights, then through one of the holes in the swing arm, and finally through the hole in the other upright. \\nThe throwing side of the swing arm should rest on the short side of the trebuchet frame because the force generated when it moves will thrust the frame downward. If this thrust falls on the short side of the frame, it could pitch the trebuchet forward.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/38\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/38\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe nail should be pointing up to ensure that the sling will open without coming off the swing arm entirely.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a1\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a1\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nIf the axle extends past the frame, you may wish to affix cotter pins or caps to its ends to keep it from slipping out when you launch projectiles.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/17\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/17\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n2-11. Paint and decorate the trebuchet.\\nIf your trebuchet is made of wood, paint will help preserve it, particularly if you plan to keep it outdoors when not in use. You can decorate the support braces with a historic flag, your family crest, or the logo of your SCA or Amtgard chapter.\\n2-12. Make the sling.\\nTake a piece of heavy cloth (or burlap, for a very large trebuchet) and fold it in half. Gather the corners on the two sides together and tie them with string, cord, or rope, forming a pouch. Tie loops in the loose ends of the string so you can slip them over the hook on the launching side of the swing arm.\\nIf you like, you can tie the string holding the sling to the trebuchet directly to the hook and tie the other end to a loop of thin wire to make it easier to slide off the hook when launching the projectile. You can also tie both string ends to wire loops to make it easier to put the sling on and remove it from the hook.\\n3. Using\\n3-1. Mount the sling on the launching hook.\\nSlip the end of one of the sling strings over the hook, unless you chose to tie it to the hook.\\n3-2. Load the projectile into the sling.\\nOnce you do, slip the other cord of the sling over the launching hook.\\n3-3. Prepare the counterweight.\\nYou can use a single heavy item as the counterweight or a number of smaller items, contained in a bag or bucket.\\n3-4. Attach the counterweight to the trebuchet.\\n\\n3-5. Release the counterweight.\\nThe weight will pull the short end of the arm down and the long end up. The sudden acceleration will swing the projectile backward in the sling, causing one end of the sling to slip off the hook and propel the projectile forward.\\nIf your trebuchet releases the projectile too soon, the projectile could fly upward or even backward. If it releases too late, the projectile will slam into the ground in front of the trebuchet. You can control the point at which the sling opens and the projectile releases by bending the release pin nail: bend it more if the projectile flies too high and bend it less if the projectile flies too low.\\nIf you have trouble with the trebuchet releasing the projectile at the right time, you can adjust the weight of the counterweight or remount the swing arm through a different hole.\\nTips\\nIf you find the trebuchet’s sling too awkward to bother with, you can replace the sling and its hook with a scoop-shaped bucket. (The bowl on an ice cream scoop would work well for a smaller-sized catapult.) This turns your trebuchet into a mangonel, also called an onager after the wild donkey whose kicking the catapult’s recoil reminded its creators of.[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nIf your trebuchet is small enough, you can launch the projectile by sharply pulling down on the short end of the swing arm instead of using a counterweight. This form of trebuchet, a traction trebuchet,[15]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n is similar to how you throw the pelota (ball) in jai alai using a curved cesta, how you launch a spear using an atl-atl, or even how you cast a fishing lure.\\nSome trebuchets feature a trough underneath the swing arm to rest the sling on when loading the projectile into it and help guide the projectile during launch.[16]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWarnings\\nUse only soft projectiles for an indoor trebuchet, and for an outdoor trebuchet, make sure to have a wide open space in front of the siege engine. Also, stand or sit to the side when launching projectiles with it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A trebuchet (pronounced TREB-you-shay) is a medieval English siege engine or catapult that consists of a large arm mounted on a cart or stand. In the counterpoise style of trebuchet, a counterweight pulls down the arm, launching a large stone or other projectile from its resting place in the sling opposite the counterweight toward the target, much like David using his sling against Goliath Trebuchets can be built large or small but all trebuchets, correctly built, illustrate the principle of leverage.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide where you will use your trebuchet.\", \"描述\": \"This will determine what size of trebuchet you’ll want to make and what materials make it out of.\\nIf you plan to use your trebuchet indoors, you’ll want to make a small trebuchet. You can make a wooden trebuchet with a base about 12 inches (30 cm) and a swing arm of about 16 inches (40 cm) or a smaller and lighter model out of popsicle sticks.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2d\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2d\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nIf you plan to use your trebuchet outdoors, you’ll want to make a larger trebuchet. A backyard trebuchet could be made of wood or PVC pipe with a 24-inch (60 cm) base and a 32-inch (80 cm) swing arm. A trebuchet to demonstrate at a Renaissance faire could be several times larger than this, if you have sufficient space to launch its projectiles, but you’d have to design it to be taken apart for transport and reassembled on site unless you have a pickup or trailer to haul it around in.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c4\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c4\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe instructions in the section “Building Your Trebuchet” are written for building a trebuchet using pieces of wood. You can adapt them to whatever building material you choose to use.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f8\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f8\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider what you want to launch with your trebuchet.\", \"描述\": \"This will have an impact on what material you make your trebuchet from, how large and durable your sling must be, and how heavy a counterweight you should obtain.\\nAn indoor trebuchet could launch grapes, paper wads, or Nerf balls, while an outdoor trebuchet could launch water balloons, tennis balls (perfect for Renfaire mixed doubles), golf balls (for Renfaire golf), clay balls, ball bearings, croquet balls, billiard balls, or even actual rocks. (Medieval trebuchets launched not only rocks, but also chunks of burning pitch and dead horse carcasses, a Middle Ages form of chemical warfare.)\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2d\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/2d\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nWhatever you decide you want to launch with your trebuchet, your counterweight should be from 100 to 133 times the weight of your projectile. If you want to launch items of various weights, you can set up your trebuchet with a bucket or bag to hold and adjust the counterweight. (If you use a bucket, its weight forms part of the overall counterweight.)\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut and sand the frame pieces and swing arm.\", \"描述\": \"For an indoor trebuchet, you can use 1 x 6-inch (2.5 x 15 cm) planking. For an outdoor trebuchet, you can use 2 x 4-inch (5 x 10 cm) planking. You’ll need to cut 8 pieces:\\nTwo long base pieces. For a small trebuchet, you may want to make them 1 foot (30 cm) long; for a larger trebuchet, they can be longer.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/09\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/09\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nTwo uprights. These should be about 5/6 the length of the base pieces or as long as the base pieces, but no longer. If you made the long base pieces 1 foot (30 cm) long, they would be 10 to 12 inches (24 to 30 cm) long.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/33\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/33\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThree cross pieces. These can be 1/2 the length of either the uprights or of the long base pieces. You want the trebuchet to be fairly narrow to ensure that it throws its projectiles in a straight line.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/40\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/40\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nOne swing arm, or beam. This piece should be 1 1/3 times the length of the base pieces; if the base pieces are 1 foot (30 cm) long, the swing arm should be 16 inches (40 cm) long.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7b\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7b\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet4.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-3Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut and sand the support braces.\", \"描述\": \"The simplest way to make these is from a piece of plywood at least 1/4 inch (6.25 mm) thick. It should be 1/2 the length of either the uprights or the long base pieces. Draw a line from one corner of the square to the other and cut along this line, making a pair of right triangles.\\nIf you prefer, you can design the support braces to look like isosceles triangles so that they will slope on both sides of the uprights when assembled.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Obtain an axle.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need either a metal bar or wooden dowel the same length as one of the cross pieces or slightly longer. The bar should be strong enough to stand up to the weight of the swing arm, the weights you plan to launch, and your counterweight.\\nA piece of rebar would make the strongest axle, but you can also use a screwdriver blade or the axle from a wheeled garbage can. For a small enough trebuchet, you can use the axle from a toy car. When you decide what to use as your axle, measure its diameter.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the uprights to the long base pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Measure 1/4 of the distance from one end of one of the long base pieces, and mark it. Place an end of one of the uprights against this mark and glue it in place, then reinforce the connection with nails or screws. Repeat for the second base piece and upright, using the first as a guide.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the braces to the assembled base pieces and uprights.\", \"描述\": \"Lay one of the assembled pieces down and lay a brace over it, flush with the bottom of the base piece and back edge of the upright and sloping toward the long end of the base piece. Glue the brace in place and reinforce it with nails or screws.\\nRepeat this process for the other assembled piece and brace, but this time point the long end of the base and the brace’s hypotenuse in the other direction.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/21\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/21\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nFor a large trebuchet, you may instead want to cut lengths of planking to serve as braces instead of using plywood sheeting, and either cut the edges at an angle or use two pieces on each side to make a rectangular brace.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/ef\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/ef\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-7Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill holes near the top of the uprights.\", \"描述\": \"When you assemble the base, you’ll thread an axle through these holes for the swing arm to turn on.\\nMark the drill holes about 1/10 of the way down from the top. You’ll want to use a drill bit that’s the same diameter or only slightly larger than the diameter of the axle.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Drill holes into the swing arm.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll want to have the primary hole 1/4 of the way from one end to the other, with secondary holes on either side of it. (This will allow you to adjust the fulcrum point of the swing arm.)\\nWhen drilling holes through the swing arm, use the bit the next diameter larger than that of the axle or possibly even 2 sizes larger. The swing arm should turn freely on the axle without wobbling.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/ae\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-9Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-9Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/ae\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-9Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-9Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSpace the secondary holes out far enough that they won’t break out and form a larger hole would allow the swing arm to slip if threaded through it.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach eye hooks to either end of the swing arm.\", \"描述\": \"These eye hooks are what you will attach the sling and counterweight to, respectively.\\nThe eye hook for the sling will go on the end furthest from where you drilled the holes. It should be open to serve as a release pin, allowing one end of the sling to open and allow the swing arm to hurl the projectile forward. To keep the sling from opening too soon, drive a nail into the end, partially covering the release pin.\\nCut the head off the nail to keep the sling from catching.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d4\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d4\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe eye hook for the counterweight should be closed, unless you plan to change the counterweight often. Even then, you may want to attach a carabiner or split ring to the counterweight eye hook.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/81\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/81\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-10Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Assemble the trebuchet frame.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the 3 cross pieces to the long base pieces using glue, nails, screws, or bolts, depending on the size of your trebuchet. One of the cross pieces should be at each end of the frame, with the third just ahead of the uprights.\\nFor a tabletop trebuchet, you may want to attach a piece of posterboard or cardboard to the bottom of the frame to protect the surface the trebuchet rests on when firing it.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Mount the swing arm.\", \"描述\": \"Place the arm between the uprights with the long end of the arm toward the short end of the frame and the nail over the hook pointing up. Thread the axle through the hole in one of the uprights, then through one of the holes in the swing arm, and finally through the hole in the other upright. \\nThe throwing side of the swing arm should rest on the short side of the trebuchet frame because the force generated when it moves will thrust the frame downward. If this thrust falls on the short side of the frame, it could pitch the trebuchet forward.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/38\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/38\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nThe nail should be pointing up to ensure that the sling will open without coming off the swing arm entirely.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a1\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a1\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nIf the axle extends past the frame, you may wish to affix cotter pins or caps to its ends to keep it from slipping out when you launch projectiles.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/17\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/17\\\\/Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid4325264-v4-728px-Build-a-Trebuchet-Step-12Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Paint and decorate the trebuchet.\", \"描述\": \"If your trebuchet is made of wood, paint will help preserve it, particularly if you plan to keep it outdoors when not in use. You can decorate the support braces with a historic flag, your family crest, or the logo of your SCA or Amtgard chapter.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Make the sling.\", \"描述\": \"Take a piece of heavy cloth (or burlap, for a very large trebuchet) and fold it in half. Gather the corners on the two sides together and tie them with string, cord, or rope, forming a pouch. Tie loops in the loose ends of the string so you can slip them over the hook on the launching side of the swing arm.\\nIf you like, you can tie the string holding the sling to the trebuchet directly to the hook and tie the other end to a loop of thin wire to make it easier to slide off the hook when launching the projectile. You can also tie both string ends to wire loops to make it easier to put the sling on and remove it from the hook.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mount the sling on the launching hook.\", \"描述\": \"Slip the end of one of the sling strings over the hook, unless you chose to tie it to the hook.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Load the projectile into the sling.\", \"描述\": \"Once you do, slip the other cord of the sling over the launching hook.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare the counterweight.\", \"描述\": \"You can use a single heavy item as the counterweight or a number of smaller items, contained in a bag or bucket.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the counterweight to the trebuchet.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Release the counterweight.\", \"描述\": \"The weight will pull the short end of the arm down and the long end up. The sudden acceleration will swing the projectile backward in the sling, causing one end of the sling to slip off the hook and propel the projectile forward.\\nIf your trebuchet releases the projectile too soon, the projectile could fly upward or even backward. If it releases too late, the projectile will slam into the ground in front of the trebuchet. You can control the point at which the sling opens and the projectile releases by bending the release pin nail: bend it more if the projectile flies too high and bend it less if the projectile flies too low.\\nIf you have trouble with the trebuchet releasing the projectile at the right time, you can adjust the weight of the counterweight or remount the swing arm through a different hole.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you find the trebuchet’s sling too awkward to bother with, you can replace the sling and its hook with a scoop-shaped bucket. (The bowl on an ice cream scoop would work well for a smaller-sized catapult.) This turns your trebuchet into a mangonel, also called an onager after the wild donkey whose kicking the catapult’s recoil reminded its creators of.[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"If your trebuchet is small enough, you can launch the projectile by sharply pulling down on the short end of the swing arm instead of using a counterweight. This form of trebuchet, a traction trebuchet,[15]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n is similar to how you throw the pelota (ball) in jai alai using a curved cesta, how you launch a spear using an atl-atl, or even how you cast a fishing lure.\\n\", \"Some trebuchets feature a trough underneath the swing arm to rest the sling on when loading the projectile into it and help guide the projectile during launch.[16]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Use only soft projectiles for an indoor trebuchet, and for an outdoor trebuchet, make sure to have a wide open space in front of the siege engine. Also, stand or sit to the side when launching projectiles with it.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,599 |
How to Build a Trebuchet (1 Meter Scale)
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1. Building the Base
1-1. Gather the necessary materials.
To build the base, you will need the following tools: hammer, electric drill, 1 inch (2.5 cm) drill bit, 10 nails, 12 wood screws, and a saw. Remember, power tools are dangerous; always use caution and have adult supervision when necessary. The supplies for the actual base include:
2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 36 inches (91 cm) long
2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 12 inches (30 cm) long
2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 23 inches (58 cm) long
⁄4 inch (0.64 cm)plywood that is between 20–24 inches (51–61 cm) square
1 piece of flat wood (can be plywood) that is 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) wide and 36 inches (91 cm)long to serve as baseboard
1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter dowel rod, 15 inches (38 cm) long
2 eye hooks
1-2. Cut the square plywood in half diagonally.
The plywood needs to be cut into triangles. These triangles will serve as supports to stabilize the trebuchet when it is in use. Using a jigsaw or table saw (whichever is available) cut the square from corner to corner through the center.
If you don’t have a table saw or jigsaw, many home improvement stores will cut wood for you before you take it home.
1-3. Construct the first side support.
Measure 13 inches (33 cm) from the left end of one of the 36 in (91 cm) long pieces of wood and make a mark. Place the center of the 23 in (58 cm) long piece of wood perpendicular to the 36 in (91 cm) long piece of wood at the mark that you made.
Lay one of the triangle-shaped pieces on top of these supports so that the base of the triangle is aligned horizontally with the bottom of the 36 in (91 cm) piece of wood.
Attach 1 screw to each corner and 2-3 screws along each side of the triangle.
1-4. Make the second side support with the same process.
Use the same process detailed above, but make it in a mirror image. This will ensure that when you build the base, both supports will face the same direction and the wooden triangles will face out.
When both sides are constructed, line them up and make sure they are identical mirror images of each other.
1-5. Attach the 12 in (30 cm) pieces of wood between the supports.
Stand the side supports up, making sure the triangle wood pieces face out. Place a 12 in (30 cm) long piece of wood between each side of the ends of the supports. Using the drill, attach the pieces together with 2 screws on each side.
At this point, the base is almost finished. You should have a rectangular base with 2 vertical supports.
1-6. Drill 1 inch (2.5 cm) holes into the top of the support arms.
Measure about 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of each arm and drill a hole about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Make sure the dowel rod fits through the holes. If it doesn’t, make the holes larger.
You don’t want the hole to be too large because you want the dowel rod to be secure.
1-7. Screw the baseboard to the trebuchet.
Place the baseboard on top of the bottom of the base. Evenly space nails nails along the edges and hammer them in to secure it in place. You can also screw the baseboard into place if you prefer.
Screw 2 eye hooks into the front end of the trebuchet baseboard about 8 inches (20 cm) apart.
2. Constructing the Arm
2-1. Gather the necessary materials.
A trebuchet works with a counterweight system. In addition to the materials listed, you will need something heavy to serve as a counterweight. You can use some hand weights, a brick, or a small bucket that you can fill as needed to vary the weight. To build the launching arm of the trebuchet, you will need the following supplies:
Hammer
2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood, 40 inches (100 cm) long
5 feet (1.5 m) of string
10 in × 6 in (25 cm × 15 cm) piece of cloth to make a pouch
2 eye hooks
1 long thin nail with the head removed
2-2. Drill a hole 10 inches (25 cm) down from the top of the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood.
This hole needs to be large enough for the dowel rod to fit through and rotate without friction. Measure 10 inches (25 cm) from the top of the 40 in (100 cm) long piece of wood and make a mark. Make the hole at this 10 in (25 cm) mark slightly larger than the diameter of the dowel rod (1 inch (2.5 cm)).
Test the rotation by putting the rod through the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood. If the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood rotates without resistance, the hole is large enough.
The end closest to the hold is the back end of the swing arm.
2-3. Attach eye hooks to the front of swing arm.
One eye hook will serve as the attachment point for the string and pouch while the other eye hook will be part of the trigger. Screw the first eye hook into the very end of the swing arm, on the bottom. Screw the second eye hook into the bottom of the swing arm about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end.
Hammer the first eye hook into the end until just the loop of the hook is sticking out.
2-4. Put the nail into the middle of the front end of the swing arm.
Make sure that the head of the nail has been completely removed. When the trebuchet launches, the string on the nail needs to be able to fly off the nail and it won’t be able to do that if it gets caught on the head. The head can be removed with a Dremel tool.
Hammer the nail into the flat end of the swing arm, approximately in the middle.
Bend it slightly forward so that the string will stay on until the trebuchet is launched. The angle of the bend will need to be optimized using trial and error launches.
2-5. Attach a counterweight to the back end of the swing arm.
The easiest counterweight to attach is a small bucket. You can vary the weight on the back easily by putting more or fewer rocks inside. Drill a small hole into the back end of the swing arm about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end. Feed some string through the hole and tie the bucket in place.
You want the bucket to hang vertically down but still be close to the arm. Tie it so that it hangs about 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) from the top of the arm.
Fill the bucket with rocks or heavy pieces of metal.
Alternatively, you can attach a heavy weight such as a 20 pounds (9.1 kg) hand weight directly to the end of the arm.
2-6. Attach the sling pouch to the arm.
Trim the corners of the 10 in × 6 in (25 cm × 15 cm) piece of cloth so that the shorter edges of the pouch are slightly tapered. This well help contain the object and let it release properly during launch. Make small holes in the middle of the shorter edges.
Tie a 27 in (69 cm) piece of string to one end of the pouch and make a small loop at the other end of the string. Hook the loop on the nail at the end of the arm. This piece is longer to account for the loop.
Tie a 24 in (61 cm) piece of string to the other end of the pouch. Tie the other end of the string to the second eye hook (the one still sticking out of the wood). The pouch should hang evenly off the back end of the arm when you are done.
3. Assembling and Using the Trebuchet
3-1. Gather the necessary materials.
To finish the trebuchet and assemble it together, you will need a coat hanger, wire cutters, and some string. These are the final materials necessary to complete the trebuchet.
The coat hanger must be made of wire so you can manipulate it for the trigger.
If you don’t have wire cutters, find another tool that will cut through the hanger.
You can use as much or as little string as you like for the trigger.
3-2. Attach the swing arm to the base.
Position the swing arm between the two supports of the base and slide the dowel rod in place. This will secure the swing arm in place. Without the trigger in place, the counterweight on the back end will cause the arm to stick up.
Again, make sure the swing arm can rotate freely around the dowel rod.
3-3. Make a coat hanger trigger.
Straighten out a coat hanger and cut a length about 15 inches (38 cm) long. Make a small loop on one end of the wire and attach some string to the loop. Bring the swing arm of the trebuchet down so that the counterweight is in the air. Feed the straight end of the hanger through the first hook on the base, then through the front hook on the swing arm, then through the second hook on the base.
Pulling the string releases the swing arm and launches whatever is in the pouch.
3-4. Adjust the lengths of the pouch strings as needed.
With everything set up and ready for launch, you can adjust the lengths of the strings attached to the pouch. Loop the end around the nail at the end of the swing arm and straighten the pouch so that it lies directly on top of the baseboard.
You want both sets of strings to be approximately the same length and for the pouch to sit close to the end of the baseboard.
3-5. Pull the trigger to launch the trebuchet.
Load the pouch with something round like a tennis ball or baseball. When the cargo is securely in place, stand back and pull the trigger. If the nail is positioned at the correct angle, you should see the ball sail through the air.
Alter the angle of the nail as needed to get the best launch distance. Trial and error is the best way to accomplish this.
Adding heavier items to the counterweight will allow you launch heavier things and/or launch things a further distance.
Don't stand in front of the throwing arm when releasing. It might hit you in the face and cause injury.
In early tests, the throwing can be unpredictable; stay clear of all moving parts.
Warnings
The best location to launch the trebuchet, especially one of this size, is outdoors. Launching indoors can result in property damage.
Use caution when working with tools: saws, hammers, drills, etc. Wear protective eyewear to prevent accidental injury to the eyes.
Make sure no one is standing in front of the trebuchet during launch.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:12",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Base\\n1-1. Gather the necessary materials.\\nTo build the base, you will need the following tools: hammer, electric drill, 1 inch (2.5 cm) drill bit, 10 nails, 12 wood screws, and a saw. Remember, power tools are dangerous; always use caution and have adult supervision when necessary. The supplies for the actual base include:\\n2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 36 inches (91 cm) long\\n2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 12 inches (30 cm) long\\n2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 23 inches (58 cm) long\\n⁄4 inch (0.64 cm)plywood that is between 20–24 inches (51–61 cm) square\\n1 piece of flat wood (can be plywood) that is 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) wide and 36 inches (91 cm)long to serve as baseboard\\n1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter dowel rod, 15 inches (38 cm) long\\n2 eye hooks\\n1-2. Cut the square plywood in half diagonally.\\nThe plywood needs to be cut into triangles. These triangles will serve as supports to stabilize the trebuchet when it is in use. Using a jigsaw or table saw (whichever is available) cut the square from corner to corner through the center.\\nIf you don’t have a table saw or jigsaw, many home improvement stores will cut wood for you before you take it home.\\n1-3. Construct the first side support.\\nMeasure 13 inches (33 cm) from the left end of one of the 36 in (91 cm) long pieces of wood and make a mark. Place the center of the 23 in (58 cm) long piece of wood perpendicular to the 36 in (91 cm) long piece of wood at the mark that you made.\\nLay one of the triangle-shaped pieces on top of these supports so that the base of the triangle is aligned horizontally with the bottom of the 36 in (91 cm) piece of wood.\\nAttach 1 screw to each corner and 2-3 screws along each side of the triangle.\\n1-4. Make the second side support with the same process.\\nUse the same process detailed above, but make it in a mirror image. This will ensure that when you build the base, both supports will face the same direction and the wooden triangles will face out.\\nWhen both sides are constructed, line them up and make sure they are identical mirror images of each other.\\n1-5. Attach the 12 in (30 cm) pieces of wood between the supports.\\nStand the side supports up, making sure the triangle wood pieces face out. Place a 12 in (30 cm) long piece of wood between each side of the ends of the supports. Using the drill, attach the pieces together with 2 screws on each side.\\nAt this point, the base is almost finished. You should have a rectangular base with 2 vertical supports.\\n1-6. Drill 1 inch (2.5 cm) holes into the top of the support arms.\\nMeasure about 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of each arm and drill a hole about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Make sure the dowel rod fits through the holes. If it doesn’t, make the holes larger.\\nYou don’t want the hole to be too large because you want the dowel rod to be secure.\\n1-7. Screw the baseboard to the trebuchet.\\nPlace the baseboard on top of the bottom of the base. Evenly space nails nails along the edges and hammer them in to secure it in place. You can also screw the baseboard into place if you prefer.\\nScrew 2 eye hooks into the front end of the trebuchet baseboard about 8 inches (20 cm) apart.\\n2. Constructing the Arm\\n2-1. Gather the necessary materials.\\nA trebuchet works with a counterweight system. In addition to the materials listed, you will need something heavy to serve as a counterweight. You can use some hand weights, a brick, or a small bucket that you can fill as needed to vary the weight. To build the launching arm of the trebuchet, you will need the following supplies:\\nHammer\\n2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood, 40 inches (100 cm) long\\n5 feet (1.5 m) of string\\n10 in × 6 in (25 cm × 15 cm) piece of cloth to make a pouch\\n2 eye hooks\\n1 long thin nail with the head removed\\n2-2. Drill a hole 10 inches (25 cm) down from the top of the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood.\\nThis hole needs to be large enough for the dowel rod to fit through and rotate without friction. Measure 10 inches (25 cm) from the top of the 40 in (100 cm) long piece of wood and make a mark. Make the hole at this 10 in (25 cm) mark slightly larger than the diameter of the dowel rod (1 inch (2.5 cm)).\\nTest the rotation by putting the rod through the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood. If the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood rotates without resistance, the hole is large enough.\\nThe end closest to the hold is the back end of the swing arm.\\n2-3. Attach eye hooks to the front of swing arm.\\nOne eye hook will serve as the attachment point for the string and pouch while the other eye hook will be part of the trigger. Screw the first eye hook into the very end of the swing arm, on the bottom. Screw the second eye hook into the bottom of the swing arm about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end.\\nHammer the first eye hook into the end until just the loop of the hook is sticking out.\\n2-4. Put the nail into the middle of the front end of the swing arm.\\nMake sure that the head of the nail has been completely removed. When the trebuchet launches, the string on the nail needs to be able to fly off the nail and it won’t be able to do that if it gets caught on the head. The head can be removed with a Dremel tool.\\nHammer the nail into the flat end of the swing arm, approximately in the middle.\\nBend it slightly forward so that the string will stay on until the trebuchet is launched. The angle of the bend will need to be optimized using trial and error launches.\\n2-5. Attach a counterweight to the back end of the swing arm.\\nThe easiest counterweight to attach is a small bucket. You can vary the weight on the back easily by putting more or fewer rocks inside. Drill a small hole into the back end of the swing arm about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end. Feed some string through the hole and tie the bucket in place.\\nYou want the bucket to hang vertically down but still be close to the arm. Tie it so that it hangs about 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) from the top of the arm.\\nFill the bucket with rocks or heavy pieces of metal.\\nAlternatively, you can attach a heavy weight such as a 20 pounds (9.1 kg) hand weight directly to the end of the arm.\\n2-6. Attach the sling pouch to the arm.\\nTrim the corners of the 10 in × 6 in (25 cm × 15 cm) piece of cloth so that the shorter edges of the pouch are slightly tapered. This well help contain the object and let it release properly during launch. Make small holes in the middle of the shorter edges.\\nTie a 27 in (69 cm) piece of string to one end of the pouch and make a small loop at the other end of the string. Hook the loop on the nail at the end of the arm. This piece is longer to account for the loop.\\nTie a 24 in (61 cm) piece of string to the other end of the pouch. Tie the other end of the string to the second eye hook (the one still sticking out of the wood). The pouch should hang evenly off the back end of the arm when you are done.\\n3. Assembling and Using the Trebuchet\\n3-1. Gather the necessary materials.\\nTo finish the trebuchet and assemble it together, you will need a coat hanger, wire cutters, and some string. These are the final materials necessary to complete the trebuchet.\\nThe coat hanger must be made of wire so you can manipulate it for the trigger.\\nIf you don’t have wire cutters, find another tool that will cut through the hanger.\\nYou can use as much or as little string as you like for the trigger.\\n3-2. Attach the swing arm to the base.\\nPosition the swing arm between the two supports of the base and slide the dowel rod in place. This will secure the swing arm in place. Without the trigger in place, the counterweight on the back end will cause the arm to stick up.\\nAgain, make sure the swing arm can rotate freely around the dowel rod.\\n3-3. Make a coat hanger trigger.\\nStraighten out a coat hanger and cut a length about 15 inches (38 cm) long. Make a small loop on one end of the wire and attach some string to the loop. Bring the swing arm of the trebuchet down so that the counterweight is in the air. Feed the straight end of the hanger through the first hook on the base, then through the front hook on the swing arm, then through the second hook on the base.\\nPulling the string releases the swing arm and launches whatever is in the pouch.\\n3-4. Adjust the lengths of the pouch strings as needed.\\nWith everything set up and ready for launch, you can adjust the lengths of the strings attached to the pouch. Loop the end around the nail at the end of the swing arm and straighten the pouch so that it lies directly on top of the baseboard.\\nYou want both sets of strings to be approximately the same length and for the pouch to sit close to the end of the baseboard.\\n3-5. Pull the trigger to launch the trebuchet.\\nLoad the pouch with something round like a tennis ball or baseball. When the cargo is securely in place, stand back and pull the trigger. If the nail is positioned at the correct angle, you should see the ball sail through the air.\\nAlter the angle of the nail as needed to get the best launch distance. Trial and error is the best way to accomplish this.\\nAdding heavier items to the counterweight will allow you launch heavier things and/or launch things a further distance.\\nDon't stand in front of the throwing arm when releasing. It might hit you in the face and cause injury.\\nIn early tests, the throwing can be unpredictable; stay clear of all moving parts.\\nWarnings\\nThe best location to launch the trebuchet, especially one of this size, is outdoors. Launching indoors can result in property damage.\\nUse caution when working with tools: saws, hammers, drills, etc. Wear protective eyewear to prevent accidental injury to the eyes.\\nMake sure no one is standing in front of the trebuchet during launch.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A trebuchet is a device used in the Middle Ages to launch very heavy objects at opponents during battle. Trebuchets work by using a counterweight system turning the falling energy of the back end into a high speed launch of a heavy projectile. You can build a smaller versions of a trebuchet on your own to learn about the physics behind them. Power tools are involved in the creation of this device so make sure you have the proper adult supervision if necessary.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the necessary materials.\", \"描述\": \"To build the base, you will need the following tools: hammer, electric drill, 1 inch (2.5 cm) drill bit, 10 nails, 12 wood screws, and a saw. Remember, power tools are dangerous; always use caution and have adult supervision when necessary. The supplies for the actual base include:\\n2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 36 inches (91 cm) long\\n2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 12 inches (30 cm) long\\n2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) wood pieces, 23 inches (58 cm) long\\n⁄4 inch (0.64 cm)plywood that is between 20–24 inches (51–61 cm) square\\n1 piece of flat wood (can be plywood) that is 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) wide and 36 inches (91 cm)long to serve as baseboard\\n1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter dowel rod, 15 inches (38 cm) long\\n2 eye hooks\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the square plywood in half diagonally.\", \"描述\": \"The plywood needs to be cut into triangles. These triangles will serve as supports to stabilize the trebuchet when it is in use. Using a jigsaw or table saw (whichever is available) cut the square from corner to corner through the center.\\nIf you don’t have a table saw or jigsaw, many home improvement stores will cut wood for you before you take it home.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Construct the first side support.\", \"描述\": \"Measure 13 inches (33 cm) from the left end of one of the 36 in (91 cm) long pieces of wood and make a mark. Place the center of the 23 in (58 cm) long piece of wood perpendicular to the 36 in (91 cm) long piece of wood at the mark that you made.\\nLay one of the triangle-shaped pieces on top of these supports so that the base of the triangle is aligned horizontally with the bottom of the 36 in (91 cm) piece of wood.\\nAttach 1 screw to each corner and 2-3 screws along each side of the triangle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make the second side support with the same process.\", \"描述\": \"Use the same process detailed above, but make it in a mirror image. This will ensure that when you build the base, both supports will face the same direction and the wooden triangles will face out.\\nWhen both sides are constructed, line them up and make sure they are identical mirror images of each other.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the 12 in (30 cm) pieces of wood between the supports.\", \"描述\": \"Stand the side supports up, making sure the triangle wood pieces face out. Place a 12 in (30 cm) long piece of wood between each side of the ends of the supports. Using the drill, attach the pieces together with 2 screws on each side.\\nAt this point, the base is almost finished. You should have a rectangular base with 2 vertical supports.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill 1 inch (2.5 cm) holes into the top of the support arms.\", \"描述\": \"Measure about 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of each arm and drill a hole about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Make sure the dowel rod fits through the holes. If it doesn’t, make the holes larger.\\nYou don’t want the hole to be too large because you want the dowel rod to be secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Screw the baseboard to the trebuchet.\", \"描述\": \"Place the baseboard on top of the bottom of the base. Evenly space nails nails along the edges and hammer them in to secure it in place. You can also screw the baseboard into place if you prefer.\\nScrew 2 eye hooks into the front end of the trebuchet baseboard about 8 inches (20 cm) apart.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Arm\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the necessary materials.\", \"描述\": \"A trebuchet works with a counterweight system. In addition to the materials listed, you will need something heavy to serve as a counterweight. You can use some hand weights, a brick, or a small bucket that you can fill as needed to vary the weight. To build the launching arm of the trebuchet, you will need the following supplies:\\nHammer\\n2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood, 40 inches (100 cm) long\\n5 feet (1.5 m) of string\\n10 in × 6 in (25 cm × 15 cm) piece of cloth to make a pouch\\n2 eye hooks\\n1 long thin nail with the head removed\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole 10 inches (25 cm) down from the top of the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood.\", \"描述\": \"This hole needs to be large enough for the dowel rod to fit through and rotate without friction. Measure 10 inches (25 cm) from the top of the 40 in (100 cm) long piece of wood and make a mark. Make the hole at this 10 in (25 cm) mark slightly larger than the diameter of the dowel rod (1 inch (2.5 cm)).\\nTest the rotation by putting the rod through the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood. If the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) piece of wood rotates without resistance, the hole is large enough.\\nThe end closest to the hold is the back end of the swing arm.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach eye hooks to the front of swing arm.\", \"描述\": \"One eye hook will serve as the attachment point for the string and pouch while the other eye hook will be part of the trigger. Screw the first eye hook into the very end of the swing arm, on the bottom. Screw the second eye hook into the bottom of the swing arm about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end.\\nHammer the first eye hook into the end until just the loop of the hook is sticking out.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put the nail into the middle of the front end of the swing arm.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the head of the nail has been completely removed. When the trebuchet launches, the string on the nail needs to be able to fly off the nail and it won’t be able to do that if it gets caught on the head. The head can be removed with a Dremel tool.\\nHammer the nail into the flat end of the swing arm, approximately in the middle.\\nBend it slightly forward so that the string will stay on until the trebuchet is launched. The angle of the bend will need to be optimized using trial and error launches.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach a counterweight to the back end of the swing arm.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest counterweight to attach is a small bucket. You can vary the weight on the back easily by putting more or fewer rocks inside. Drill a small hole into the back end of the swing arm about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end. Feed some string through the hole and tie the bucket in place.\\nYou want the bucket to hang vertically down but still be close to the arm. Tie it so that it hangs about 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) from the top of the arm.\\nFill the bucket with rocks or heavy pieces of metal.\\nAlternatively, you can attach a heavy weight such as a 20 pounds (9.1 kg) hand weight directly to the end of the arm.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the sling pouch to the arm.\", \"描述\": \"Trim the corners of the 10 in × 6 in (25 cm × 15 cm) piece of cloth so that the shorter edges of the pouch are slightly tapered. This well help contain the object and let it release properly during launch. Make small holes in the middle of the shorter edges.\\nTie a 27 in (69 cm) piece of string to one end of the pouch and make a small loop at the other end of the string. Hook the loop on the nail at the end of the arm. This piece is longer to account for the loop.\\nTie a 24 in (61 cm) piece of string to the other end of the pouch. Tie the other end of the string to the second eye hook (the one still sticking out of the wood). The pouch should hang evenly off the back end of the arm when you are done.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling and Using the Trebuchet\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the necessary materials.\", \"描述\": \"To finish the trebuchet and assemble it together, you will need a coat hanger, wire cutters, and some string. These are the final materials necessary to complete the trebuchet.\\nThe coat hanger must be made of wire so you can manipulate it for the trigger.\\nIf you don’t have wire cutters, find another tool that will cut through the hanger.\\nYou can use as much or as little string as you like for the trigger.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the swing arm to the base.\", \"描述\": \"Position the swing arm between the two supports of the base and slide the dowel rod in place. This will secure the swing arm in place. Without the trigger in place, the counterweight on the back end will cause the arm to stick up.\\nAgain, make sure the swing arm can rotate freely around the dowel rod.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a coat hanger trigger.\", \"描述\": \"Straighten out a coat hanger and cut a length about 15 inches (38 cm) long. Make a small loop on one end of the wire and attach some string to the loop. Bring the swing arm of the trebuchet down so that the counterweight is in the air. Feed the straight end of the hanger through the first hook on the base, then through the front hook on the swing arm, then through the second hook on the base.\\nPulling the string releases the swing arm and launches whatever is in the pouch.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Adjust the lengths of the pouch strings as needed.\", \"描述\": \"With everything set up and ready for launch, you can adjust the lengths of the strings attached to the pouch. Loop the end around the nail at the end of the swing arm and straighten the pouch so that it lies directly on top of the baseboard.\\nYou want both sets of strings to be approximately the same length and for the pouch to sit close to the end of the baseboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pull the trigger to launch the trebuchet.\", \"描述\": \"Load the pouch with something round like a tennis ball or baseball. When the cargo is securely in place, stand back and pull the trigger. If the nail is positioned at the correct angle, you should see the ball sail through the air.\\nAlter the angle of the nail as needed to get the best launch distance. Trial and error is the best way to accomplish this.\\nAdding heavier items to the counterweight will allow you launch heavier things and/or launch things a further distance.\\nDon't stand in front of the throwing arm when releasing. It might hit you in the face and cause injury.\\nIn early tests, the throwing can be unpredictable; stay clear of all moving parts.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"The best location to launch the trebuchet, especially one of this size, is outdoors. Launching indoors can result in property damage.\\n\", \"Use caution when working with tools: saws, hammers, drills, etc. Wear protective eyewear to prevent accidental injury to the eyes.\\n\", \"Make sure no one is standing in front of the trebuchet during launch.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,600 |
How to Build a Treehouse
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1. Preparing to Build Your Treehouse
1-1. Choose the right tree.
The health of the tree you select is absolutely crucial for building a foundation for your treehouse. If the tree is too old or too young, you won't have the support you need for your treehouse and you will be putting yourself and anyone else who goes into the treehouse in great danger. Your tree should be sturdy, healthy, mature, and living. Ideal trees for treehouse include oak, maple, fir, and apple. It's a good idea to have an arborist inspect your tree before you start building. An ideal tree has the following qualities:
A strong, sturdy trunk and branches.
Roots that are deep and well-established!
No evidence of disease or parasites that could weaken the tree.
1-2. Check with your local planning department
Take the time to learn about local regulations or ordinances that may be relevant to your treehouse project, such as height restrictions. You may even need a permit to build. If you have protected trees on your property, there may be restrictions on building in them.
1-3. Talk to your neighbors.
As a courtesy, it's a good idea to speak with your neighbors and let them know your plans. If your treehouse will be visible from or overlook a neighbor's property, they will be glad you're taking their opinion into consideration. This simple step can head off future complaints and even potential lawsuits. Though your neighbors will most likely comply, this will help make them more amenable to your project.
1-4. Talk to your insurance agent
Make a quick call to your insurance agent to make sure that a treehouse is covered under your homeowner's policy. If it's not, then any potential damage that is caused by the treehouse won't be covered by your insurance.
2. Making a Detailed Plan
2-1. Choose your tree.
If you're building a treehouse in your backyard, then you may only have so many trees to choose from. Once you have chosen a healthy tree, you can start thinking about the design of the house that can go on it; or you can take the opposite route and think of the design first, and then make sure that you have a fitting tree. Here are some things you keep in mind as you choose the tree for your treehouse:
For a standard 8'x8' treehouse, choose a tree with a trunk at least 12" in diameter.
To calculate your tree's diameter, measure its circumference by wrapping a string or measuring tape around the trunk at the point where you want the treehouse to sit. Divide that number by pi (3.14) to get the diameter.
2-2. Choose your design.
It's important to have a firm idea of the design of your dream treehouse before you hammer in the first nail. You can find treehouse designs online, or if you're knowledgeable about building, you can create your own. You need to make accurate measurements to ensure that your design works with the tree you've selected.
You may find it helpful to make a small cardboard model of your tree and treehouse to identify any potential issue areas.
In creating your design, don't forget to plan for tree growth. Allow ample space around the trunk of the tree for the tree to grow. It's worth doing some research on your specific tree species to determine its growth rate.
2-3. Decide on your support method.
There are several ways to support your treehouse. Whatever method you choose, it's important to remember that trees move with the wind. Sliding joists or brackets are essential to make sure your tree and treehouse are not damaged by winds. Here are the three main support methods for your tree:
The post method. This method involves sinking support posts into the ground close to the tree, rather than attaching anything to the tree itself. It is the least damaging to the tree.
The bolt method. Bolting the support beams or floor platform directly into the tree is the most traditional method of supporting a treehouse. However, this method is the most damaging to the tree. You can minimize the damage by using proper materials.
The suspension method. In this method, you would suspend the treehouse from strong, high branches using cables, rope or chains. This method will not work for every design, and it is not ideal for treehouses that are meant to carry any significant weight.
2-4. Decide on your access method.
Before you build your treehouse, you'll need to decide on a method of access, such as a ladder, which easily allows a person to enter the treehouse. Your method should be safe and sturdy, so this rules out the traditional treehouse ladder, which is made up of boards nailed to a tree trunk. Here are some safer methods of access for a treehouse:
The standard ladder. You can purchase or build an ordinary ladder for climbing into your treehouse. A ladder made for bunk or loft beds can work as well.
The rope ladder. This is a ladder made of rope and short boards, which is hung from the treehouse platform.
The staircase. A small staircase is the safest access method if it's compatible with your vision of a treehouse. If you choose this method, make sure to build a railing for safety.
2-5. Figure out what you'll do with branches that interfere with your treehouse.
How will you build around pesky branches? Will you cut them off, or incorporate them into the plans of the treehouse? If you decide to incorporate branches into the treehouse, will you build around them or frame them in a window? Ask yourself these questions before you start building. That way, your treehouse will reflect the care and preparation of its builder when finished.
3. Building and Securing a Platform
3-1. Keep safety in mind.
Before you begin to build your treehouse, you should remember to keep safety in mind. Falling out is one of the biggest hazards of a treehouse. There are a few precautions you can take to make sure that everyone who is building the treehouse stays safe.
Don't build too high. Building your treehouse too high could be dangerous. If your treehouse is going to be used mostly by children, the platform should not be any higher than 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m).
Construct a safe railing. The point of your railing, of course, is to make sure that the treehouse occupants don't fall out. Make sure the railing around your platform is at least 36" high, with balusters no more than 4" apart.
Cushion a fall. Surround the area below the treehouse with a soft natural material like wood mulch. This won't entirely prevent injury, but it will provide some cushioning for a fall.
3-2. Find a sturdy tree where two branches separate into a "V" shape.
You'll use this tree in order to rig up your treehouse. The "V" shape will add extra strength and support, providing an anchor point at four places instead of only at two.
3-3. Pre-drill the tree at four different locations, on each side of the "V".
Drill a 3/8" into each prong of the "V," making sure that the holes are all level. If they are not level with one another, the structure could be slanted and the support compromised.
3-4. Measure the distance between the holes at each side of the "V".
Depending on the tree, the holes may be spaced farther or shorter apart.
3-5. Subtract the measurement from 10', halve the rest, and mark the distance from one end of the 2x10.
Make a mark at the other end using the original measurement between the two holes in the tree. This will ensure that the 2x10s will be perfectly centered and bear equal weight when you hoist them onto the "V".
3-6. Create a 4" slot at each mark on both 2x10s.
This is so that the trees can sway in the wind and move without damaging the structural integrity of the treehouse. Do this by drilling two 5/8" holes, each 2" to either side of your mark. Then use a jigsaw to cut between the holes, creating a 4" slot, with your mark completely centered.
Now when the tree sways in the wind, the platform actually moves a bit to accommodate the swaying. If the platform were simply bolted onto the tree, it would move along with the tree. This is not good for the platform, as it could gradually or suddenly be pushed in different directions and begin cracking.
3-7. Mount two main supports to the tree at the appropriate height.
Choose two sturdy pieces of 2x10 (2x12 will do, too) and place them flush against your tree. Drive four 6" or 8" long, 5/8" diameter galvanized lag screws into the four 4" slots of the 2x10 using a wrench. Place washers in between the screw and the wood board. Repeat with the other board on the opposite side of the trunk, making sure both boards are at equal height and flush with one another.
Pre-drill both the tree and the 2x10s for an easier time installing the screws, and to minimize cracking in your boards.
Undercut both supports at each for an aesthetic finish. Of course, do this before mounting the supports to the trunk with your screws.
Consider doubling up each support with another 2x10 for added strength. In effect use two 2x10s on each side of the trunk, flush against one another. This allows the supports to bear more weight. If you do decide to double up on your supports, use bigger lag screws (at least 8" long and 1" diameter).
3-8. Place four 2x6s, evenly spaced, perpendicular across the main supports.
Instead of placing them flat across the main supports, place them up on their side so they stick up two feet into the air. Secure them with 3" deck screws.
3-9. Attach two 2x6s to the 2x6s nailed into place above.
Lay each 2x6 flush across the four ends of the 2x6s and nail them into place. Your platform should now be a square attached to the main supports. Check that your 2x6s are centered and square.
3-10. Attach the platform to the main supports with rafter ties.
Use 8 galvanized rafter ties to attach all four of the perpendicular 2x6s to the main supports.
3-11. Attach the middle of the platform to the sides of the platform with joist hangers.
Use 8 galvanized joist hangers to attach the ends of the perpendicular 2x6s to the abutting 2x6s.
3-12. Brace the platform with 2x4s.
As it stands now, the platform is still a bit wobbly. In order to make the platform more sturdy, you'll need to add at least two braces. These will be attached to a lower portion of the tree and then again on both edges of the platform.
Cut a 45-degree angle out of the top ends on each 2x4. This is so that you can attach the 2x4 to the inside of the platform.
Form a "V" with your 2x4 so that they overlap at a straight part of the tree but also cleanly abut onto the inside of the platform.
Attach the top of the bracing to the platform from the bottom and on the inside. Make sure both are completely flush before you drive nails into them.
Drive an 8" lag screw through the overlapping 2x4s at a sturdy point on the tree. Use a washer between the 2x4s and the lag screw for the best results.
4. Laying the Deck and Railing
4-1. Figure out where you'll need to cut around to fit the trees through your floorboards.
Make a measurement of where the trees come through the flooring and cut around the trunks with a jigsaw, leaving 1" to 2" around.
4-2. Screw in two screws at each board end with at least 4" deck screws.
Once your deck boards have been cut to accommodate the trunks of your tree, it's time to screw them into place. Use a ladder to hoist yourself up onto the platform and start screwing down with a drill. Leave a slight 1/4" or 1/2" distance between each floorboard.
4-3. Make an entrance from the main supports that travel past the platform.
Add covering and verticals to the platform to make a rectangle. Now an awkward part that formerly jutted out of the platform has been turned into a handy-dandy entrance.
4-4. Use two 2x4s at each corner to start making uprights for the railing.
Nail the two 2x4 (they should be at least 4 feet high) together, and then screw them to the platform at each corner.
4-5. Attach handrails to the uprights.
Use 2x4s as well, and if you want, mitre the edges of the handrails. Then, nail them down to the uprights. Next, screw the handrails into one another through their mitered corners.
4-6. Attach the siding to the bottom of the platform and the bottom of the handrails.
Nail any available woods — planks or plywood work fine — flush into the bottom of the platform. Then nail them into the railing at the top so that they form an effective fence.
Use whatever you want for siding. You can successfully use meshed-together rope if you want, as long as little kiddies cannot slip through. Safety should be the first priority, especially when you're dealing with small children.
5. Finishing Up
5-1. Build yourself a ladder and hoist it up to the platform.
There are a number of ways that you can do this. Have fun with this part of the project!
Build a rope ladder
Build a ladder using 2 12-foot 2x4s and 2 8-foot 2x3s. Place the 2x4s side by side in perfect symmetry, marking off where each rung should go. Cut out 2x3 notches about 1 ⁄8 inches (2.9 cm) deep into both sides of the 2x4s. Cut the 2x3s the appropriate length for rungs and glue them into their notches with wood glue. Secure your rungs with deck screws and wait for the glue to dry. Stain your ladder to give it a nice hue and protect it from the elements.
5-2. Add a simple roof to your treehouse.
This roof is made from a simple tarp, although you can also get more elaborate in designing and constructing your roof. Drive one hook into both trunks about 8 feet (2.4 m) above the bottom of the platform. String a bungee cord between the two hooks and slip a tarp overhead.
Next, build four outriggers several feet high and attach them to the four corners of your railing. Nail the tarp to the four corners of the outriggers, securing with a washer. Now your roof should have a better overhang.
5-3. Paint or stain the wood.
If you want to weatherproof your treehouse, or just give it a more appealing look, now's the time to stain or paint it. Consider a stain or paint that will work in combination with your house.
Tips
If you are bolting directly into your tree use fewer, bigger fasteners rather than a bunch of small ones. Otherwise, the tree will be more likely to treat the whole area of attachment as one wound and the entire area will decay.[6]
X
Research source
Keep your structure as lightweight as possible. The heavier your treehouse, the more support it will need, and the more potential damage it can cause to the tree. If you put furniture in your treehouse, buy the lightest weight furniture that is reasonable.
Most hardware stores will not carry lag bolts large enough for a treehouse project. Source this hardware online from a custom treehouse builder.
Warnings
Never climb on the roof of a treehouse.
Reclaimed wood is eco-friendly but may not be as strong as new wood. Use caution when choosing reclaimed wood, and don't use it for any load-bearing parts of your treehouse.
Never jump out of a treehouse to the ground. Always use the ladder or stairs.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:13",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Build Your Treehouse\\n1-1. Choose the right tree.\\nThe health of the tree you select is absolutely crucial for building a foundation for your treehouse. If the tree is too old or too young, you won't have the support you need for your treehouse and you will be putting yourself and anyone else who goes into the treehouse in great danger. Your tree should be sturdy, healthy, mature, and living. Ideal trees for treehouse include oak, maple, fir, and apple. It's a good idea to have an arborist inspect your tree before you start building. An ideal tree has the following qualities:\\nA strong, sturdy trunk and branches.\\nRoots that are deep and well-established!\\nNo evidence of disease or parasites that could weaken the tree.\\n1-2. Check with your local planning department\\nTake the time to learn about local regulations or ordinances that may be relevant to your treehouse project, such as height restrictions. You may even need a permit to build. If you have protected trees on your property, there may be restrictions on building in them.\\n1-3. Talk to your neighbors.\\nAs a courtesy, it's a good idea to speak with your neighbors and let them know your plans. If your treehouse will be visible from or overlook a neighbor's property, they will be glad you're taking their opinion into consideration. This simple step can head off future complaints and even potential lawsuits. Though your neighbors will most likely comply, this will help make them more amenable to your project.\\n1-4. Talk to your insurance agent\\nMake a quick call to your insurance agent to make sure that a treehouse is covered under your homeowner's policy. If it's not, then any potential damage that is caused by the treehouse won't be covered by your insurance.\\n2. Making a Detailed Plan\\n2-1. Choose your tree.\\nIf you're building a treehouse in your backyard, then you may only have so many trees to choose from. Once you have chosen a healthy tree, you can start thinking about the design of the house that can go on it; or you can take the opposite route and think of the design first, and then make sure that you have a fitting tree. Here are some things you keep in mind as you choose the tree for your treehouse:\\nFor a standard 8'x8' treehouse, choose a tree with a trunk at least 12\\\" in diameter.\\nTo calculate your tree's diameter, measure its circumference by wrapping a string or measuring tape around the trunk at the point where you want the treehouse to sit. Divide that number by pi (3.14) to get the diameter.\\n2-2. Choose your design.\\nIt's important to have a firm idea of the design of your dream treehouse before you hammer in the first nail. You can find treehouse designs online, or if you're knowledgeable about building, you can create your own. You need to make accurate measurements to ensure that your design works with the tree you've selected.\\nYou may find it helpful to make a small cardboard model of your tree and treehouse to identify any potential issue areas.\\nIn creating your design, don't forget to plan for tree growth. Allow ample space around the trunk of the tree for the tree to grow. It's worth doing some research on your specific tree species to determine its growth rate.\\n2-3. Decide on your support method.\\nThere are several ways to support your treehouse. Whatever method you choose, it's important to remember that trees move with the wind. Sliding joists or brackets are essential to make sure your tree and treehouse are not damaged by winds. Here are the three main support methods for your tree:\\nThe post method. This method involves sinking support posts into the ground close to the tree, rather than attaching anything to the tree itself. It is the least damaging to the tree.\\nThe bolt method. Bolting the support beams or floor platform directly into the tree is the most traditional method of supporting a treehouse. However, this method is the most damaging to the tree. You can minimize the damage by using proper materials.\\nThe suspension method. In this method, you would suspend the treehouse from strong, high branches using cables, rope or chains. This method will not work for every design, and it is not ideal for treehouses that are meant to carry any significant weight.\\n2-4. Decide on your access method.\\nBefore you build your treehouse, you'll need to decide on a method of access, such as a ladder, which easily allows a person to enter the treehouse. Your method should be safe and sturdy, so this rules out the traditional treehouse ladder, which is made up of boards nailed to a tree trunk. Here are some safer methods of access for a treehouse:\\nThe standard ladder. You can purchase or build an ordinary ladder for climbing into your treehouse. A ladder made for bunk or loft beds can work as well.\\nThe rope ladder. This is a ladder made of rope and short boards, which is hung from the treehouse platform.\\nThe staircase. A small staircase is the safest access method if it's compatible with your vision of a treehouse. If you choose this method, make sure to build a railing for safety.\\n2-5. Figure out what you'll do with branches that interfere with your treehouse.\\nHow will you build around pesky branches? Will you cut them off, or incorporate them into the plans of the treehouse? If you decide to incorporate branches into the treehouse, will you build around them or frame them in a window? Ask yourself these questions before you start building. That way, your treehouse will reflect the care and preparation of its builder when finished.\\n3. Building and Securing a Platform\\n3-1. Keep safety in mind.\\nBefore you begin to build your treehouse, you should remember to keep safety in mind. Falling out is one of the biggest hazards of a treehouse. There are a few precautions you can take to make sure that everyone who is building the treehouse stays safe.\\nDon't build too high. Building your treehouse too high could be dangerous. If your treehouse is going to be used mostly by children, the platform should not be any higher than 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m).\\nConstruct a safe railing. The point of your railing, of course, is to make sure that the treehouse occupants don't fall out. Make sure the railing around your platform is at least 36\\\" high, with balusters no more than 4\\\" apart.\\nCushion a fall. Surround the area below the treehouse with a soft natural material like wood mulch. This won't entirely prevent injury, but it will provide some cushioning for a fall.\\n3-2. Find a sturdy tree where two branches separate into a \\\"V\\\" shape.\\nYou'll use this tree in order to rig up your treehouse. The \\\"V\\\" shape will add extra strength and support, providing an anchor point at four places instead of only at two.\\n3-3. Pre-drill the tree at four different locations, on each side of the \\\"V\\\".\\nDrill a 3/8\\\" into each prong of the \\\"V,\\\" making sure that the holes are all level. If they are not level with one another, the structure could be slanted and the support compromised.\\n3-4. Measure the distance between the holes at each side of the \\\"V\\\".\\nDepending on the tree, the holes may be spaced farther or shorter apart.\\n3-5. Subtract the measurement from 10', halve the rest, and mark the distance from one end of the 2x10.\\nMake a mark at the other end using the original measurement between the two holes in the tree. This will ensure that the 2x10s will be perfectly centered and bear equal weight when you hoist them onto the \\\"V\\\".\\n3-6. Create a 4\\\" slot at each mark on both 2x10s.\\nThis is so that the trees can sway in the wind and move without damaging the structural integrity of the treehouse. Do this by drilling two 5/8\\\" holes, each 2\\\" to either side of your mark. Then use a jigsaw to cut between the holes, creating a 4\\\" slot, with your mark completely centered.\\nNow when the tree sways in the wind, the platform actually moves a bit to accommodate the swaying. If the platform were simply bolted onto the tree, it would move along with the tree. This is not good for the platform, as it could gradually or suddenly be pushed in different directions and begin cracking.\\n3-7. Mount two main supports to the tree at the appropriate height.\\nChoose two sturdy pieces of 2x10 (2x12 will do, too) and place them flush against your tree. Drive four 6\\\" or 8\\\" long, 5/8\\\" diameter galvanized lag screws into the four 4\\\" slots of the 2x10 using a wrench. Place washers in between the screw and the wood board. Repeat with the other board on the opposite side of the trunk, making sure both boards are at equal height and flush with one another.\\nPre-drill both the tree and the 2x10s for an easier time installing the screws, and to minimize cracking in your boards.\\nUndercut both supports at each for an aesthetic finish. Of course, do this before mounting the supports to the trunk with your screws.\\nConsider doubling up each support with another 2x10 for added strength. In effect use two 2x10s on each side of the trunk, flush against one another. This allows the supports to bear more weight. If you do decide to double up on your supports, use bigger lag screws (at least 8\\\" long and 1\\\" diameter).\\n3-8. Place four 2x6s, evenly spaced, perpendicular across the main supports.\\nInstead of placing them flat across the main supports, place them up on their side so they stick up two feet into the air. Secure them with 3\\\" deck screws.\\n3-9. Attach two 2x6s to the 2x6s nailed into place above.\\nLay each 2x6 flush across the four ends of the 2x6s and nail them into place. Your platform should now be a square attached to the main supports. Check that your 2x6s are centered and square.\\n3-10. Attach the platform to the main supports with rafter ties.\\nUse 8 galvanized rafter ties to attach all four of the perpendicular 2x6s to the main supports.\\n3-11. Attach the middle of the platform to the sides of the platform with joist hangers.\\nUse 8 galvanized joist hangers to attach the ends of the perpendicular 2x6s to the abutting 2x6s.\\n3-12. Brace the platform with 2x4s.\\nAs it stands now, the platform is still a bit wobbly. In order to make the platform more sturdy, you'll need to add at least two braces. These will be attached to a lower portion of the tree and then again on both edges of the platform.\\nCut a 45-degree angle out of the top ends on each 2x4. This is so that you can attach the 2x4 to the inside of the platform.\\nForm a \\\"V\\\" with your 2x4 so that they overlap at a straight part of the tree but also cleanly abut onto the inside of the platform.\\nAttach the top of the bracing to the platform from the bottom and on the inside. Make sure both are completely flush before you drive nails into them.\\nDrive an 8\\\" lag screw through the overlapping 2x4s at a sturdy point on the tree. Use a washer between the 2x4s and the lag screw for the best results.\\n4. Laying the Deck and Railing\\n4-1. Figure out where you'll need to cut around to fit the trees through your floorboards.\\nMake a measurement of where the trees come through the flooring and cut around the trunks with a jigsaw, leaving 1\\\" to 2\\\" around.\\n4-2. Screw in two screws at each board end with at least 4\\\" deck screws.\\nOnce your deck boards have been cut to accommodate the trunks of your tree, it's time to screw them into place. Use a ladder to hoist yourself up onto the platform and start screwing down with a drill. Leave a slight 1/4\\\" or 1/2\\\" distance between each floorboard.\\n4-3. Make an entrance from the main supports that travel past the platform.\\nAdd covering and verticals to the platform to make a rectangle. Now an awkward part that formerly jutted out of the platform has been turned into a handy-dandy entrance.\\n4-4. Use two 2x4s at each corner to start making uprights for the railing.\\nNail the two 2x4 (they should be at least 4 feet high) together, and then screw them to the platform at each corner.\\n4-5. Attach handrails to the uprights.\\nUse 2x4s as well, and if you want, mitre the edges of the handrails. Then, nail them down to the uprights. Next, screw the handrails into one another through their mitered corners.\\n4-6. Attach the siding to the bottom of the platform and the bottom of the handrails.\\nNail any available woods — planks or plywood work fine — flush into the bottom of the platform. Then nail them into the railing at the top so that they form an effective fence.\\nUse whatever you want for siding. You can successfully use meshed-together rope if you want, as long as little kiddies cannot slip through. Safety should be the first priority, especially when you're dealing with small children.\\n5. Finishing Up\\n5-1. Build yourself a ladder and hoist it up to the platform.\\nThere are a number of ways that you can do this. Have fun with this part of the project!\\nBuild a rope ladder\\nBuild a ladder using 2 12-foot 2x4s and 2 8-foot 2x3s. Place the 2x4s side by side in perfect symmetry, marking off where each rung should go. Cut out 2x3 notches about 1 ⁄8 inches (2.9 cm) deep into both sides of the 2x4s. Cut the 2x3s the appropriate length for rungs and glue them into their notches with wood glue. Secure your rungs with deck screws and wait for the glue to dry. Stain your ladder to give it a nice hue and protect it from the elements.\\n5-2. Add a simple roof to your treehouse.\\nThis roof is made from a simple tarp, although you can also get more elaborate in designing and constructing your roof. Drive one hook into both trunks about 8 feet (2.4 m) above the bottom of the platform. String a bungee cord between the two hooks and slip a tarp overhead.\\nNext, build four outriggers several feet high and attach them to the four corners of your railing. Nail the tarp to the four corners of the outriggers, securing with a washer. Now your roof should have a better overhang.\\n5-3. Paint or stain the wood.\\nIf you want to weatherproof your treehouse, or just give it a more appealing look, now's the time to stain or paint it. Consider a stain or paint that will work in combination with your house.\\nTips\\nIf you are bolting directly into your tree use fewer, bigger fasteners rather than a bunch of small ones. Otherwise, the tree will be more likely to treat the whole area of attachment as one wound and the entire area will decay.[6]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nKeep your structure as lightweight as possible. The heavier your treehouse, the more support it will need, and the more potential damage it can cause to the tree. If you put furniture in your treehouse, buy the lightest weight furniture that is reasonable.\\nMost hardware stores will not carry lag bolts large enough for a treehouse project. Source this hardware online from a custom treehouse builder.\\nWarnings\\nNever climb on the roof of a treehouse.\\nReclaimed wood is eco-friendly but may not be as strong as new wood. Use caution when choosing reclaimed wood, and don't use it for any load-bearing parts of your treehouse.\\nNever jump out of a treehouse to the ground. Always use the ladder or stairs.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A treehouse can be a magical hideaway, fort, or play destination for almost any child, as well as a fun project for any adult. Building a treehouse takes careful planning and construction, but your hard work will pay off. If you give your dream treehouse the care and attention that it deserves, then you can build a wooden sanctuary that you can enjoy for years.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Build Your Treehouse\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the right tree.\", \"描述\": \"The health of the tree you select is absolutely crucial for building a foundation for your treehouse. If the tree is too old or too young, you won't have the support you need for your treehouse and you will be putting yourself and anyone else who goes into the treehouse in great danger. Your tree should be sturdy, healthy, mature, and living. Ideal trees for treehouse include oak, maple, fir, and apple. It's a good idea to have an arborist inspect your tree before you start building. An ideal tree has the following qualities:\\nA strong, sturdy trunk and branches.\\nRoots that are deep and well-established!\\nNo evidence of disease or parasites that could weaken the tree.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Check with your local planning department\", \"描述\": \"Take the time to learn about local regulations or ordinances that may be relevant to your treehouse project, such as height restrictions. You may even need a permit to build. If you have protected trees on your property, there may be restrictions on building in them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Talk to your neighbors.\", \"描述\": \"As a courtesy, it's a good idea to speak with your neighbors and let them know your plans. If your treehouse will be visible from or overlook a neighbor's property, they will be glad you're taking their opinion into consideration. This simple step can head off future complaints and even potential lawsuits. Though your neighbors will most likely comply, this will help make them more amenable to your project.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Talk to your insurance agent\", \"描述\": \"Make a quick call to your insurance agent to make sure that a treehouse is covered under your homeowner's policy. If it's not, then any potential damage that is caused by the treehouse won't be covered by your insurance.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Detailed Plan\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose your tree.\", \"描述\": \"If you're building a treehouse in your backyard, then you may only have so many trees to choose from. Once you have chosen a healthy tree, you can start thinking about the design of the house that can go on it; or you can take the opposite route and think of the design first, and then make sure that you have a fitting tree. Here are some things you keep in mind as you choose the tree for your treehouse:\\nFor a standard 8'x8' treehouse, choose a tree with a trunk at least 12\\\" in diameter.\\nTo calculate your tree's diameter, measure its circumference by wrapping a string or measuring tape around the trunk at the point where you want the treehouse to sit. Divide that number by pi (3.14) to get the diameter.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your design.\", \"描述\": \"It's important to have a firm idea of the design of your dream treehouse before you hammer in the first nail. You can find treehouse designs online, or if you're knowledgeable about building, you can create your own. You need to make accurate measurements to ensure that your design works with the tree you've selected.\\nYou may find it helpful to make a small cardboard model of your tree and treehouse to identify any potential issue areas.\\nIn creating your design, don't forget to plan for tree growth. Allow ample space around the trunk of the tree for the tree to grow. It's worth doing some research on your specific tree species to determine its growth rate.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide on your support method.\", \"描述\": \"There are several ways to support your treehouse. Whatever method you choose, it's important to remember that trees move with the wind. Sliding joists or brackets are essential to make sure your tree and treehouse are not damaged by winds. Here are the three main support methods for your tree:\\nThe post method. This method involves sinking support posts into the ground close to the tree, rather than attaching anything to the tree itself. It is the least damaging to the tree.\\nThe bolt method. Bolting the support beams or floor platform directly into the tree is the most traditional method of supporting a treehouse. However, this method is the most damaging to the tree. You can minimize the damage by using proper materials.\\nThe suspension method. In this method, you would suspend the treehouse from strong, high branches using cables, rope or chains. This method will not work for every design, and it is not ideal for treehouses that are meant to carry any significant weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decide on your access method.\", \"描述\": \"Before you build your treehouse, you'll need to decide on a method of access, such as a ladder, which easily allows a person to enter the treehouse. Your method should be safe and sturdy, so this rules out the traditional treehouse ladder, which is made up of boards nailed to a tree trunk. Here are some safer methods of access for a treehouse:\\nThe standard ladder. You can purchase or build an ordinary ladder for climbing into your treehouse. A ladder made for bunk or loft beds can work as well.\\nThe rope ladder. This is a ladder made of rope and short boards, which is hung from the treehouse platform.\\nThe staircase. A small staircase is the safest access method if it's compatible with your vision of a treehouse. If you choose this method, make sure to build a railing for safety.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Figure out what you'll do with branches that interfere with your treehouse.\", \"描述\": \"How will you build around pesky branches? Will you cut them off, or incorporate them into the plans of the treehouse? If you decide to incorporate branches into the treehouse, will you build around them or frame them in a window? Ask yourself these questions before you start building. That way, your treehouse will reflect the care and preparation of its builder when finished.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building and Securing a Platform\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep safety in mind.\", \"描述\": \"Before you begin to build your treehouse, you should remember to keep safety in mind. Falling out is one of the biggest hazards of a treehouse. There are a few precautions you can take to make sure that everyone who is building the treehouse stays safe.\\nDon't build too high. Building your treehouse too high could be dangerous. If your treehouse is going to be used mostly by children, the platform should not be any higher than 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m).\\nConstruct a safe railing. The point of your railing, of course, is to make sure that the treehouse occupants don't fall out. Make sure the railing around your platform is at least 36\\\" high, with balusters no more than 4\\\" apart.\\nCushion a fall. Surround the area below the treehouse with a soft natural material like wood mulch. This won't entirely prevent injury, but it will provide some cushioning for a fall.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a sturdy tree where two branches separate into a \\\"V\\\" shape.\", \"描述\": \"You'll use this tree in order to rig up your treehouse. The \\\"V\\\" shape will add extra strength and support, providing an anchor point at four places instead of only at two.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pre-drill the tree at four different locations, on each side of the \\\"V\\\".\", \"描述\": \"Drill a 3/8\\\" into each prong of the \\\"V,\\\" making sure that the holes are all level. If they are not level with one another, the structure could be slanted and the support compromised.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure the distance between the holes at each side of the \\\"V\\\".\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the tree, the holes may be spaced farther or shorter apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Subtract the measurement from 10', halve the rest, and mark the distance from one end of the 2x10.\", \"描述\": \"Make a mark at the other end using the original measurement between the two holes in the tree. This will ensure that the 2x10s will be perfectly centered and bear equal weight when you hoist them onto the \\\"V\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create a 4\\\" slot at each mark on both 2x10s.\", \"描述\": \"This is so that the trees can sway in the wind and move without damaging the structural integrity of the treehouse. Do this by drilling two 5/8\\\" holes, each 2\\\" to either side of your mark. Then use a jigsaw to cut between the holes, creating a 4\\\" slot, with your mark completely centered.\\nNow when the tree sways in the wind, the platform actually moves a bit to accommodate the swaying. If the platform were simply bolted onto the tree, it would move along with the tree. This is not good for the platform, as it could gradually or suddenly be pushed in different directions and begin cracking.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Mount two main supports to the tree at the appropriate height.\", \"描述\": \"Choose two sturdy pieces of 2x10 (2x12 will do, too) and place them flush against your tree. Drive four 6\\\" or 8\\\" long, 5/8\\\" diameter galvanized lag screws into the four 4\\\" slots of the 2x10 using a wrench. Place washers in between the screw and the wood board. Repeat with the other board on the opposite side of the trunk, making sure both boards are at equal height and flush with one another.\\nPre-drill both the tree and the 2x10s for an easier time installing the screws, and to minimize cracking in your boards.\\nUndercut both supports at each for an aesthetic finish. Of course, do this before mounting the supports to the trunk with your screws.\\nConsider doubling up each support with another 2x10 for added strength. In effect use two 2x10s on each side of the trunk, flush against one another. This allows the supports to bear more weight. If you do decide to double up on your supports, use bigger lag screws (at least 8\\\" long and 1\\\" diameter).\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Place four 2x6s, evenly spaced, perpendicular across the main supports.\", \"描述\": \"Instead of placing them flat across the main supports, place them up on their side so they stick up two feet into the air. Secure them with 3\\\" deck screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Attach two 2x6s to the 2x6s nailed into place above.\", \"描述\": \"Lay each 2x6 flush across the four ends of the 2x6s and nail them into place. Your platform should now be a square attached to the main supports. Check that your 2x6s are centered and square.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Attach the platform to the main supports with rafter ties.\", \"描述\": \"Use 8 galvanized rafter ties to attach all four of the perpendicular 2x6s to the main supports.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Attach the middle of the platform to the sides of the platform with joist hangers.\", \"描述\": \"Use 8 galvanized joist hangers to attach the ends of the perpendicular 2x6s to the abutting 2x6s.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Brace the platform with 2x4s.\", \"描述\": \"As it stands now, the platform is still a bit wobbly. In order to make the platform more sturdy, you'll need to add at least two braces. These will be attached to a lower portion of the tree and then again on both edges of the platform.\\nCut a 45-degree angle out of the top ends on each 2x4. This is so that you can attach the 2x4 to the inside of the platform.\\nForm a \\\"V\\\" with your 2x4 so that they overlap at a straight part of the tree but also cleanly abut onto the inside of the platform.\\nAttach the top of the bracing to the platform from the bottom and on the inside. Make sure both are completely flush before you drive nails into them.\\nDrive an 8\\\" lag screw through the overlapping 2x4s at a sturdy point on the tree. Use a washer between the 2x4s and the lag screw for the best results.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Laying the Deck and Railing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Figure out where you'll need to cut around to fit the trees through your floorboards.\", \"描述\": \"Make a measurement of where the trees come through the flooring and cut around the trunks with a jigsaw, leaving 1\\\" to 2\\\" around.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw in two screws at each board end with at least 4\\\" deck screws.\", \"描述\": \"Once your deck boards have been cut to accommodate the trunks of your tree, it's time to screw them into place. Use a ladder to hoist yourself up onto the platform and start screwing down with a drill. Leave a slight 1/4\\\" or 1/2\\\" distance between each floorboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make an entrance from the main supports that travel past the platform.\", \"描述\": \"Add covering and verticals to the platform to make a rectangle. Now an awkward part that formerly jutted out of the platform has been turned into a handy-dandy entrance.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use two 2x4s at each corner to start making uprights for the railing.\", \"描述\": \"Nail the two 2x4 (they should be at least 4 feet high) together, and then screw them to the platform at each corner.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach handrails to the uprights.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2x4s as well, and if you want, mitre the edges of the handrails. Then, nail them down to the uprights. Next, screw the handrails into one another through their mitered corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the siding to the bottom of the platform and the bottom of the handrails.\", \"描述\": \"Nail any available woods — planks or plywood work fine — flush into the bottom of the platform. Then nail them into the railing at the top so that they form an effective fence.\\nUse whatever you want for siding. You can successfully use meshed-together rope if you want, as long as little kiddies cannot slip through. Safety should be the first priority, especially when you're dealing with small children.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Finishing Up\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build yourself a ladder and hoist it up to the platform.\", \"描述\": \"There are a number of ways that you can do this. Have fun with this part of the project!\\nBuild a rope ladder\\nBuild a ladder using 2 12-foot 2x4s and 2 8-foot 2x3s. Place the 2x4s side by side in perfect symmetry, marking off where each rung should go. Cut out 2x3 notches about 1 ⁄8 inches (2.9 cm) deep into both sides of the 2x4s. Cut the 2x3s the appropriate length for rungs and glue them into their notches with wood glue. Secure your rungs with deck screws and wait for the glue to dry. Stain your ladder to give it a nice hue and protect it from the elements.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add a simple roof to your treehouse.\", \"描述\": \"This roof is made from a simple tarp, although you can also get more elaborate in designing and constructing your roof. Drive one hook into both trunks about 8 feet (2.4 m) above the bottom of the platform. String a bungee cord between the two hooks and slip a tarp overhead.\\nNext, build four outriggers several feet high and attach them to the four corners of your railing. Nail the tarp to the four corners of the outriggers, securing with a washer. Now your roof should have a better overhang.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint or stain the wood.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to weatherproof your treehouse, or just give it a more appealing look, now's the time to stain or paint it. Consider a stain or paint that will work in combination with your house.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you are bolting directly into your tree use fewer, bigger fasteners rather than a bunch of small ones. Otherwise, the tree will be more likely to treat the whole area of attachment as one wound and the entire area will decay.[6]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Keep your structure as lightweight as possible. The heavier your treehouse, the more support it will need, and the more potential damage it can cause to the tree. If you put furniture in your treehouse, buy the lightest weight furniture that is reasonable.\\n\", \"Most hardware stores will not carry lag bolts large enough for a treehouse project. Source this hardware online from a custom treehouse builder.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Never climb on the roof of a treehouse.\\n\", \"Reclaimed wood is eco-friendly but may not be as strong as new wood. Use caution when choosing reclaimed wood, and don't use it for any load-bearing parts of your treehouse.\\n\", \"Never jump out of a treehouse to the ground. Always use the ladder or stairs.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,601 |
How to Build a Trellis for Wisteria
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1. Building a Wooden Trellis
1-1. Gather good quality wood boards.
The size and number of these hardwood boards depends on how large of a trellis you’re planning to build. For a simple trellis, we recommend at least 8 boards that are 5 ft (1.5 m) long and 2 in (5.1 cm) wide.
Wisteria is an aggressive grower that can overwhelm weaker structures with its weight. For longevity, use a hardwood that won’t rot easily, like white oak or mahogany.
If you’re having difficulty finding boards the right size, cut them using a power tool, like a circular saw.
1-2. Lay 2 wood boards next to each other.
These 2 boards will be the vertical edges of your trellis, so place them apart from each other at a distance that matches how wide you’d like your trellis to be.
For example, if you are planning to have a trellis that’s 4 ft (120 cm) wide, place your boards on the ground lengthwise 4 ft (120 cm) from each other.
1-3. Lay one horizontal board at the top of the frame and one at the bottom.
These 4 boards will create a square frame for the trellis. Depending on how close together your vertical boards are, you may need to cut the horizontal boards so that you can line up their outer edges with the outer edges of the vertical boards.
To make this trellis even stronger, apply a generous layer of wood glue between the horizontal and vertical boards.
This square frame trellis will be mounted directly onto your wall. Some people prefer to build trellises that dig into the earth as well—if that is the case for you, attach the bottom horizontal board at 1/3rd of the way up from the bottom of the vertical boards so there are legs on your trellis.
1-4. Drill the pieces of the external frame into place.
If possible, try using deck screws, which are coated with zinc to prevent corrosion. Use a power drill and screws to secure the external frame for your trellis together.
If you applied wood glue to the pieces of your trellis, give it time to cure before drilling—this may take up to 24 hours.
1-5. Measure the distance from the top to the bottom of the trellis.
This helps you mark the locations for your horizontal boards. Use a pencil or other instrument to mark out locations on the left-most vertical board at 1/3rd and 2/3rds of the way up from the bottom. Mark the same points on the right-most vertical board.
Be sure that the 2 horizontal boards from the frame are sticking out above the rest of the frame—if the vertical boards of the frame are resting on them, flip the trellis over before marking it.
If you would like to make a trellis with additional horizontal boards, mark locations at 1/4th or 1/5th intervals instead.
1-6. Attach the horizontal boards to the frame.
Place horizontal boards between the marks you made on the vertical boards of the frame, adjusting them if needed to make sure they’re straight. Then, screw in the horizontal boards with a power drill.
This trellis will be stronger if you apply a layer of wood glue between the horizontal boards and the frame before screwing them in. If you apply wood glue, wait 24 hours for it to cure before screwing in the boards.
1-7. Flip the trellis over.
Once you’ve secured the horizontal boards onto your trellis, flip it over to begin the process of adding vertical boards. This will keep your trellis from having more than 2 boards directly overlapping each other at once.
Your trellis should have all of its horizontal boards (including the frame) level with each other, and all of its vertical boards level with each other (also including the frame).
1-8. Measure the distance from the left side to the right side of the trellis.
Use this measurement to decide where to place the vertical boards within the trellis’ frame. For this trellis, mark locations on the bottom board 1/3rd of the way from the leftmost point, and once more 2/3rds of the way from the leftmost point. Make the same marks on the top board.
If you would like to make a larger trellis with more vertical boards, try marking locations every 1/4th or 1/5th of the board’s length, rather than every 1/3rd.
1-9. Secure the vertical boards to the frame.
Using the marks that you placed on the two horizontal boards of the frame, start by placing the vertical boards in the correct location. Adjust them if they seem slanted or at all out-of-place. Attach the vertical boards to the frame using screws and the drill.
For added strength, apply a generous layer of wood glue to the trellis first. Wait 24 hours for the glue to cure, then screw the vertical boards into the frame.
2. Installing Your Trellis for Wisteria
2-1. Choose a large wall that gets plenty of sun.
Wisteria can grow very quickly—around 10 ft (3.0 m) a year. Because of this, pick a wall that is at least 7 ft (2.1 m) tall.
Wisteria grows best when exposed to plenty of light. If you’re in the northern hemisphere, choose a south or west-facing wall. In the southern hemisphere, pick a north or east-facing wall.
2-2. Locate the wall studs.
To make sure your trellis is securely attached to your wall, find the wall studs using a stud finder. If you don’t already have a stud finder, you can purchase one on Amazon. When you’ve identified places on the wall where you can attach the trellis, mark your wall with a pencil or piece of chalk at these locations. Try to identify several (at least 6) places along the trellis’ frame to attach it to the wall.
2-3. Mark the parts of the trellis where you’ll be drilling.
Line up the trellis against the wall and use a pencil or other writing instrument to place a mark at the same locations you marked the wall.
2-4. Pre-drill
Hold the trellis against the wall and use a power drill to place holes through the trellis and into the wall at the locations you marked earlier. Making these pilot holes will help prevent the wood from splitting later when you screw the trellis into place.
2-5. Cut a PVC pipe into 2 in (5.1 cm) segments.
This PVC pipe prevents the wisteria from damaging your wall and gives it room to breathe. Use a pipe with a diameter of approximately 0.5 inches 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
To cut the pipe, you can use either a pipe cutter or a saw.
The number of PVC pipe segments you’ll need depends on how many holes you plan on placing in your trellis—if you plan on drilling 10 holes, cut 10 pipe segments.
2-6. Place the PVC pipe spacers between the trellis and wall.
These spacers should be placed so that you can stick a long screw into the trellis, through the pipe, and into the wall. You may want to ask a friend to help you hold the trellis as you place the PVC pipe segments in the correct positions.
2-7. Screw in the trellis.
Use long screws to connect the trellis to the wall. To fasten the trellis to the wall, use a power drill to screw through each of the marked and pre-drilled points of your trellis, letting the screw fit through the PVC pipe and penetrate the wall behind it by about 2 in (5.1 cm).
3. Growing Wisteria on Your Trellis
3-1. Plant wisteria
Keep in mind that wisteria needs plenty of space—if you’re planting more than one plant, space them apart at 10 foot (3.0 m) intervals.
There are several different types of wisteria. While Chinese and Japanese wisteria are very popular, these species are invasive in North America. American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) is a good alternative if you live in North America.
3-2. Lightly attach the wisteria to your trellis.
Weave any longer vines of wisteria through your trellis and use nursery tape or tomato string to attach the vines to the structure. A loose knot is more than enough to get the vines to start growing on the trellis.
3-3. Water the wisteria when its soil is dry.
When the wisteria is freshly planted or during dry seasons, be sure to water it regularly. Wisteria can consume a lot of water, so check every few days to see if the soil has dried out. Touch the soil with your finger and see if you can feel any moisture.
3-4. Feed wisteria in the spring.
Use a store-bought plant feed, and follow the instructions on its packaging. A potassium-rich fertilizer is especially good for wisteria. You only need to fertilize wisteria one time in the spring—liquid fertilizers work especially quickly to deliver nutrients to the wisteria, but solid ones are perfectly fine as well.
Tips
To keep your wisteria healthy and beautiful, prune it twice a year, in winter and summer.[22]
X
Trustworthy Source
Royal Horticultural Society
Leading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plants
Go to source
It can take around 3 years for wisteria to begin to bloom.[23]
X
Trustworthy Source
Royal Horticultural Society
Leading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plants
Go to source
Warnings
Wisteria can be toxic if eaten—keep it away from children and pets.[24]
X
Trustworthy Source
PubMed Central
Journal archive from the U.S. National Institutes of Health
Go to source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:13",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Wooden Trellis\\n1-1. Gather good quality wood boards.\\nThe size and number of these hardwood boards depends on how large of a trellis you’re planning to build. For a simple trellis, we recommend at least 8 boards that are 5 ft (1.5 m) long and 2 in (5.1 cm) wide.\\nWisteria is an aggressive grower that can overwhelm weaker structures with its weight. For longevity, use a hardwood that won’t rot easily, like white oak or mahogany.\\nIf you’re having difficulty finding boards the right size, cut them using a power tool, like a circular saw.\\n1-2. Lay 2 wood boards next to each other.\\nThese 2 boards will be the vertical edges of your trellis, so place them apart from each other at a distance that matches how wide you’d like your trellis to be.\\nFor example, if you are planning to have a trellis that’s 4 ft (120 cm) wide, place your boards on the ground lengthwise 4 ft (120 cm) from each other.\\n1-3. Lay one horizontal board at the top of the frame and one at the bottom.\\nThese 4 boards will create a square frame for the trellis. Depending on how close together your vertical boards are, you may need to cut the horizontal boards so that you can line up their outer edges with the outer edges of the vertical boards.\\nTo make this trellis even stronger, apply a generous layer of wood glue between the horizontal and vertical boards.\\nThis square frame trellis will be mounted directly onto your wall. Some people prefer to build trellises that dig into the earth as well—if that is the case for you, attach the bottom horizontal board at 1/3rd of the way up from the bottom of the vertical boards so there are legs on your trellis.\\n1-4. Drill the pieces of the external frame into place.\\nIf possible, try using deck screws, which are coated with zinc to prevent corrosion. Use a power drill and screws to secure the external frame for your trellis together.\\nIf you applied wood glue to the pieces of your trellis, give it time to cure before drilling—this may take up to 24 hours.\\n1-5. Measure the distance from the top to the bottom of the trellis.\\nThis helps you mark the locations for your horizontal boards. Use a pencil or other instrument to mark out locations on the left-most vertical board at 1/3rd and 2/3rds of the way up from the bottom. Mark the same points on the right-most vertical board.\\nBe sure that the 2 horizontal boards from the frame are sticking out above the rest of the frame—if the vertical boards of the frame are resting on them, flip the trellis over before marking it.\\nIf you would like to make a trellis with additional horizontal boards, mark locations at 1/4th or 1/5th intervals instead.\\n1-6. Attach the horizontal boards to the frame.\\nPlace horizontal boards between the marks you made on the vertical boards of the frame, adjusting them if needed to make sure they’re straight. Then, screw in the horizontal boards with a power drill.\\nThis trellis will be stronger if you apply a layer of wood glue between the horizontal boards and the frame before screwing them in. If you apply wood glue, wait 24 hours for it to cure before screwing in the boards.\\n1-7. Flip the trellis over.\\nOnce you’ve secured the horizontal boards onto your trellis, flip it over to begin the process of adding vertical boards. This will keep your trellis from having more than 2 boards directly overlapping each other at once.\\nYour trellis should have all of its horizontal boards (including the frame) level with each other, and all of its vertical boards level with each other (also including the frame).\\n1-8. Measure the distance from the left side to the right side of the trellis.\\nUse this measurement to decide where to place the vertical boards within the trellis’ frame. For this trellis, mark locations on the bottom board 1/3rd of the way from the leftmost point, and once more 2/3rds of the way from the leftmost point. Make the same marks on the top board.\\nIf you would like to make a larger trellis with more vertical boards, try marking locations every 1/4th or 1/5th of the board’s length, rather than every 1/3rd.\\n1-9. Secure the vertical boards to the frame.\\nUsing the marks that you placed on the two horizontal boards of the frame, start by placing the vertical boards in the correct location. Adjust them if they seem slanted or at all out-of-place. Attach the vertical boards to the frame using screws and the drill.\\nFor added strength, apply a generous layer of wood glue to the trellis first. Wait 24 hours for the glue to cure, then screw the vertical boards into the frame.\\n2. Installing Your Trellis for Wisteria\\n2-1. Choose a large wall that gets plenty of sun.\\nWisteria can grow very quickly—around 10 ft (3.0 m) a year. Because of this, pick a wall that is at least 7 ft (2.1 m) tall.\\nWisteria grows best when exposed to plenty of light. If you’re in the northern hemisphere, choose a south or west-facing wall. In the southern hemisphere, pick a north or east-facing wall.\\n2-2. Locate the wall studs.\\nTo make sure your trellis is securely attached to your wall, find the wall studs using a stud finder. If you don’t already have a stud finder, you can purchase one on Amazon. When you’ve identified places on the wall where you can attach the trellis, mark your wall with a pencil or piece of chalk at these locations. Try to identify several (at least 6) places along the trellis’ frame to attach it to the wall.\\n2-3. Mark the parts of the trellis where you’ll be drilling.\\nLine up the trellis against the wall and use a pencil or other writing instrument to place a mark at the same locations you marked the wall.\\n2-4. Pre-drill\\nHold the trellis against the wall and use a power drill to place holes through the trellis and into the wall at the locations you marked earlier. Making these pilot holes will help prevent the wood from splitting later when you screw the trellis into place.\\n2-5. Cut a PVC pipe into 2 in (5.1 cm) segments.\\nThis PVC pipe prevents the wisteria from damaging your wall and gives it room to breathe. Use a pipe with a diameter of approximately 0.5 inches 0.5 in (1.3 cm).\\n\\nTo cut the pipe, you can use either a pipe cutter or a saw.\\nThe number of PVC pipe segments you’ll need depends on how many holes you plan on placing in your trellis—if you plan on drilling 10 holes, cut 10 pipe segments.\\n2-6. Place the PVC pipe spacers between the trellis and wall.\\nThese spacers should be placed so that you can stick a long screw into the trellis, through the pipe, and into the wall. You may want to ask a friend to help you hold the trellis as you place the PVC pipe segments in the correct positions.\\n2-7. Screw in the trellis.\\nUse long screws to connect the trellis to the wall. To fasten the trellis to the wall, use a power drill to screw through each of the marked and pre-drilled points of your trellis, letting the screw fit through the PVC pipe and penetrate the wall behind it by about 2 in (5.1 cm).\\n3. Growing Wisteria on Your Trellis\\n3-1. Plant wisteria\\nKeep in mind that wisteria needs plenty of space—if you’re planting more than one plant, space them apart at 10 foot (3.0 m) intervals.\\nThere are several different types of wisteria. While Chinese and Japanese wisteria are very popular, these species are invasive in North America. American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) is a good alternative if you live in North America.\\n3-2. Lightly attach the wisteria to your trellis.\\nWeave any longer vines of wisteria through your trellis and use nursery tape or tomato string to attach the vines to the structure. A loose knot is more than enough to get the vines to start growing on the trellis.\\n3-3. Water the wisteria when its soil is dry.\\nWhen the wisteria is freshly planted or during dry seasons, be sure to water it regularly. Wisteria can consume a lot of water, so check every few days to see if the soil has dried out. Touch the soil with your finger and see if you can feel any moisture.\\n3-4. Feed wisteria in the spring.\\nUse a store-bought plant feed, and follow the instructions on its packaging. A potassium-rich fertilizer is especially good for wisteria. You only need to fertilize wisteria one time in the spring—liquid fertilizers work especially quickly to deliver nutrients to the wisteria, but solid ones are perfectly fine as well.\\nTips\\nTo keep your wisteria healthy and beautiful, prune it twice a year, in winter and summer.[22]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nRoyal Horticultural Society\\nLeading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plants\\nGo to source\\nIt can take around 3 years for wisteria to begin to bloom.[23]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nRoyal Horticultural Society\\nLeading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plants\\nGo to source\\nWarnings\\nWisteria can be toxic if eaten—keep it away from children and pets.[24]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nPubMed Central\\nJournal archive from the U.S. National Institutes of Health\\nGo to source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Wisteria is a majestic and eye-catching vine for your garden, but it needs structural support to thrive. By building a wooden trellis, you can help your wisteria grow and remain healthy. In no time at all, you’ll have an incredible display of gorgeous flowers to decorate your home. We’re here to show you how with this complete guide on how to build a trellis for wisteria.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Wooden Trellis\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather good quality wood boards.\", \"描述\": \"The size and number of these hardwood boards depends on how large of a trellis you’re planning to build. For a simple trellis, we recommend at least 8 boards that are 5 ft (1.5 m) long and 2 in (5.1 cm) wide.\\nWisteria is an aggressive grower that can overwhelm weaker structures with its weight. For longevity, use a hardwood that won’t rot easily, like white oak or mahogany.\\nIf you’re having difficulty finding boards the right size, cut them using a power tool, like a circular saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay 2 wood boards next to each other.\", \"描述\": \"These 2 boards will be the vertical edges of your trellis, so place them apart from each other at a distance that matches how wide you’d like your trellis to be.\\nFor example, if you are planning to have a trellis that’s 4 ft (120 cm) wide, place your boards on the ground lengthwise 4 ft (120 cm) from each other.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay one horizontal board at the top of the frame and one at the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"These 4 boards will create a square frame for the trellis. Depending on how close together your vertical boards are, you may need to cut the horizontal boards so that you can line up their outer edges with the outer edges of the vertical boards.\\nTo make this trellis even stronger, apply a generous layer of wood glue between the horizontal and vertical boards.\\nThis square frame trellis will be mounted directly onto your wall. Some people prefer to build trellises that dig into the earth as well—if that is the case for you, attach the bottom horizontal board at 1/3rd of the way up from the bottom of the vertical boards so there are legs on your trellis.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill the pieces of the external frame into place.\", \"描述\": \"If possible, try using deck screws, which are coated with zinc to prevent corrosion. Use a power drill and screws to secure the external frame for your trellis together.\\nIf you applied wood glue to the pieces of your trellis, give it time to cure before drilling—this may take up to 24 hours.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Measure the distance from the top to the bottom of the trellis.\", \"描述\": \"This helps you mark the locations for your horizontal boards. Use a pencil or other instrument to mark out locations on the left-most vertical board at 1/3rd and 2/3rds of the way up from the bottom. Mark the same points on the right-most vertical board.\\nBe sure that the 2 horizontal boards from the frame are sticking out above the rest of the frame—if the vertical boards of the frame are resting on them, flip the trellis over before marking it.\\nIf you would like to make a trellis with additional horizontal boards, mark locations at 1/4th or 1/5th intervals instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the horizontal boards to the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Place horizontal boards between the marks you made on the vertical boards of the frame, adjusting them if needed to make sure they’re straight. Then, screw in the horizontal boards with a power drill.\\nThis trellis will be stronger if you apply a layer of wood glue between the horizontal boards and the frame before screwing them in. If you apply wood glue, wait 24 hours for it to cure before screwing in the boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Flip the trellis over.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve secured the horizontal boards onto your trellis, flip it over to begin the process of adding vertical boards. This will keep your trellis from having more than 2 boards directly overlapping each other at once.\\nYour trellis should have all of its horizontal boards (including the frame) level with each other, and all of its vertical boards level with each other (also including the frame).\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Measure the distance from the left side to the right side of the trellis.\", \"描述\": \"Use this measurement to decide where to place the vertical boards within the trellis’ frame. For this trellis, mark locations on the bottom board 1/3rd of the way from the leftmost point, and once more 2/3rds of the way from the leftmost point. Make the same marks on the top board.\\nIf you would like to make a larger trellis with more vertical boards, try marking locations every 1/4th or 1/5th of the board’s length, rather than every 1/3rd.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Secure the vertical boards to the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Using the marks that you placed on the two horizontal boards of the frame, start by placing the vertical boards in the correct location. Adjust them if they seem slanted or at all out-of-place. Attach the vertical boards to the frame using screws and the drill.\\nFor added strength, apply a generous layer of wood glue to the trellis first. Wait 24 hours for the glue to cure, then screw the vertical boards into the frame.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Installing Your Trellis for Wisteria\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a large wall that gets plenty of sun.\", \"描述\": \"Wisteria can grow very quickly—around 10 ft (3.0 m) a year. Because of this, pick a wall that is at least 7 ft (2.1 m) tall.\\nWisteria grows best when exposed to plenty of light. If you’re in the northern hemisphere, choose a south or west-facing wall. In the southern hemisphere, pick a north or east-facing wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Locate the wall studs.\", \"描述\": \"To make sure your trellis is securely attached to your wall, find the wall studs using a stud finder. If you don’t already have a stud finder, you can purchase one on Amazon. When you’ve identified places on the wall where you can attach the trellis, mark your wall with a pencil or piece of chalk at these locations. Try to identify several (at least 6) places along the trellis’ frame to attach it to the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the parts of the trellis where you’ll be drilling.\", \"描述\": \"Line up the trellis against the wall and use a pencil or other writing instrument to place a mark at the same locations you marked the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pre-drill\", \"描述\": \"Hold the trellis against the wall and use a power drill to place holes through the trellis and into the wall at the locations you marked earlier. Making these pilot holes will help prevent the wood from splitting later when you screw the trellis into place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut a PVC pipe into 2 in (5.1 cm) segments.\", \"描述\": \"This PVC pipe prevents the wisteria from damaging your wall and gives it room to breathe. Use a pipe with a diameter of approximately 0.5 inches 0.5 in (1.3 cm).\\n\\nTo cut the pipe, you can use either a pipe cutter or a saw.\\nThe number of PVC pipe segments you’ll need depends on how many holes you plan on placing in your trellis—if you plan on drilling 10 holes, cut 10 pipe segments.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the PVC pipe spacers between the trellis and wall.\", \"描述\": \"These spacers should be placed so that you can stick a long screw into the trellis, through the pipe, and into the wall. You may want to ask a friend to help you hold the trellis as you place the PVC pipe segments in the correct positions.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Screw in the trellis.\", \"描述\": \"Use long screws to connect the trellis to the wall. To fasten the trellis to the wall, use a power drill to screw through each of the marked and pre-drilled points of your trellis, letting the screw fit through the PVC pipe and penetrate the wall behind it by about 2 in (5.1 cm).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Growing Wisteria on Your Trellis\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plant wisteria\", \"描述\": \"Keep in mind that wisteria needs plenty of space—if you’re planting more than one plant, space them apart at 10 foot (3.0 m) intervals.\\nThere are several different types of wisteria. While Chinese and Japanese wisteria are very popular, these species are invasive in North America. American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) is a good alternative if you live in North America.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lightly attach the wisteria to your trellis.\", \"描述\": \"Weave any longer vines of wisteria through your trellis and use nursery tape or tomato string to attach the vines to the structure. A loose knot is more than enough to get the vines to start growing on the trellis.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Water the wisteria when its soil is dry.\", \"描述\": \"When the wisteria is freshly planted or during dry seasons, be sure to water it regularly. Wisteria can consume a lot of water, so check every few days to see if the soil has dried out. Touch the soil with your finger and see if you can feel any moisture.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Feed wisteria in the spring.\", \"描述\": \"Use a store-bought plant feed, and follow the instructions on its packaging. A potassium-rich fertilizer is especially good for wisteria. You only need to fertilize wisteria one time in the spring—liquid fertilizers work especially quickly to deliver nutrients to the wisteria, but solid ones are perfectly fine as well.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"To keep your wisteria healthy and beautiful, prune it twice a year, in winter and summer.[22]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nRoyal Horticultural Society\\nLeading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plants\\nGo to source\\n\", \"It can take around 3 years for wisteria to begin to bloom.[23]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nRoyal Horticultural Society\\nLeading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plants\\nGo to source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wisteria can be toxic if eaten—keep it away from children and pets.[24]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nPubMed Central\\nJournal archive from the U.S. National Institutes of Health\\nGo to source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,602 |
How to Build a Tumbling Composter
|
1. Building an On-the-Ground Tumbling Composter
1-1. Gather the materials needed to build an “on-the-ground” tumbling composter.
An inexpensive and less complicated way to build your own tumbling composter is by creating an “on the ground” tumbling composter, which is simply a container outfitted to hold compost that you “turn” by simply rolling the container across the ground. Purchase or obtain a large cylindrical container with a lid that fits tight. A garbage can works best, and is likely the easiest to find. Select either a plastic or metal garbage can that will hold at least 30 gallons; large containers used for composting hold 55 gallons. Wash the garbage can or container thoroughly if it has been used. Additional materials you’ll need include:
Two 48" lengths of 1/2" metal/aluminum pipe
One 36" length of 1/4" steel threaded rod (zinc plated)
Four 2" long 1/4" bolts
Eight 1/4" nuts
A 1/4" metal drill bit
A 7/8" drill bit
Drill
Hacksaw
Measuring tape
Ear and eye protection
2 elastic bungee cords that are the same length as the can's diameter (optional)
1-2. Drill two holes into the lid and bottom of your container using a 7/8” drill bit.
The holes you’ll drill into the lid need to be 4” from the outer edge of the lid and directly across from each other, or specifically 180 degrees apart. The holes at the bottom of the container need to be 2” from the edge. You’ll need to place the holes at the bottom in a sunken part of the container’s base because you’ll be sticking metal or aluminum pipes through these holes and you want your tumbling composter to be able to stand upright once assembled.
1-3. Create aeration holes all over your container.
Drill several holes, about 15-20, into the top and bottom and along the sides of the container using your drill and a 1/4” drill bit. Space the holes evenly. The holes will allow oxygen to flow freely throughout your tumbling composter.
1-4. Drill two holes straight through each end of your two metal or aluminum pipes using a 1/4" metal drill bit.
Make sure to place them as close to the end of pipes as possible. Doing so will enable your tumbling composter to stand up properly.
1-5. Drill two additional holes into each pipe, and then thread your rod through those holes.
Once the pipes and connected rod are placed inside the container, the rod will need to rest in the middle of the container. Therefore, your two additional holes must measure at half the height of your container. Measure the height of your container and divide that measurement by two. The number you come up with will be the length you measure on your two pipes to determine where your two holes will be drilled. Use your 1/4" metal drill to drill the two holes straight through the pipe.
Before you thread your rod through the new holes, it’ll need to be cut down to size in order to fit inside your container. To do this, measure the diameter of the container at the point where the pipes’ holes will be. You found this point earlier by dividing the height of your container by two. When you come up with the diameter of the container, cut the rod 1” shorter than that, so it’ll fit easily inside the container.
Slide one end of the rod through one of the pipes until the pipe is about 3” from the other end of the rod. Then screw onto the rod two of the 1/4" nuts. Start at the end of the rod that is farthest from the pole. Each nut should be about 4" from each end of the rod. Once secured, the first nut will be right next to the pole, while the second nut will be about 4" from the end of the rod. Once the second nut is secured, slide the rod through the second pipe, stopping when the pipe touches the 1/4" nut. Secure the two pipes by screwing an additional 1/4" nut on the outer edges of the rod next to each pipe.
1-6. Secure the pipe and rod structure to your container.
Place the structure inside the container and then turn the container on its side to make it easier to thread the ends of the pipe through the two 7/8” holes in the bottom of the container. Secure the pipes by sliding a 2” bolt through the 1/4" holes you drilled into the ends of the pipes, and then screwing two 1/4" nuts onto the ends of each bolt. Stand the container upright and then secure the lid by threading the tops of the pipes through the two 7/8” holes.
You’ll need to drill holes into the length of the pipes just above the lid, so that once bolted the lid will stay secure when you roll it on the ground.
Use a marker to mark the spots where you’ll drill your holes, and then to ensure your holes are even, disassemble your tumbling composter, and lie the pipes flat on the ground when you drill them.
Drill two holes straight through each pipe using the metal 1/4" drill bit, and then reassemble your tumbling composter.
1-7. Fill your tumbling composter with composting ingredients and secure the lid.
To secure the lid, follow the same method used to secure the pipes to the bottom of the container. Use two bolts and nuts on each side of the bolts, after you’ve filled your tumbling composter with composting ingredients. Slide one bolt through each of the 1/4" holes you've just drilled, and then secure those bolts by attaching a 1/4" nut to each end of the bolts. If necessary, you can secure bungee cords over the top of the container by laying them in a crisscross pattern over the lid and securing the cords either underneath the handles of the lid or through a few newly drilled holes.
1-8. Test the security of your lid by rolling your new tumbling composter across the ground.
Make sure your lid is tightly secured by rolling it across the ground. If dirt begins to spill from around the top, adjust your bolts, or tighten or obtain bungee cords to further tie down your lid.
2. Building a Barrel-Roll Tumbling Composter
2-1. Gather the materials needed to construct a “barrel-roll” tumbling composter.
If you prefer to expend less energy turning your compost, building a “barrel-roll” tumbling composter will help. This type of tumbling composter sits atop a wooden structure and turns on an axle, such as a PVC or steel pipe, that runs directly through it. You’ll need to purchase or obtain a plastic or steel barrel, between 20 and 55 gallons (75-200 liters), including a 48 inch (1.25 meter) length of 2 inch (5 cm) schedule 80 PVC pipe, or a length of 1 1/2 to 2 inch (3.8-5 cm) galvanized steel pipe. You’ll also need:
2X4 treated lumber
Nails
Circular saw
Jigsaw
Drill motor, drill paddle bit, and drill bits
Hole saw
Basic hand tools (hammer, measuring tape, flexible metal ruler, framing square)
Hinges
Latches
Door handle
“L” brackets
2-2. Drill holes in the center of the top and bottom of your barrel.
Measure the diameter of each end of your barrel, and then divide that measurement by two to determine the center point. Your holes should be large enough to fit the pipe you’ll be using as the axle. If you can, cut off a small piece of your axle pipe, place it over each center mark, and trace a circle along the outside of the pipe. If you can’t, measure the diameter of your axle pipe and draw a circle of the same size around each center point. Once your circles have been created, use a drill paddle bit or hole saw of an equal size to create your holes.
2-3. Drill holes into the body of the barrel for aeration.
Using a 1-inch (2.5 cm) bit space 15-20 holes evenly along the sides of the barrel. This will allow oxygen to flow freely throughout the container.
2-4. Create a door on the side of your barrel.
Before you start cutting out a door, trace the shape of the door you want along one side of the barrel using a flexible metal ruler and a framing square. The measurements for the door will differ depending on the size of your barrel. If your barrel is on the smaller size, like 20 to 30 gallons, trace a 12” by 12” square. If it’s a 55 gallon barrel, you can outline an 18” by 12” rectangle. The longer side should be parallel to the length of the barrel.
Make a couple small holes in one of the corners using your drill to allow space for your jigsaw blade to start cutting. Continue to use the blade all the way around the outline of the door until the shape is removed.
The door will likely be a bit flimsy once secured. If your barrel is plastic, secure two pieces of wood to the inside of the barrel, one along the side where you’ve placed your hatches and the other on the opposite end where you’ll place your latches and handle. If your barrel is metal, use two steel plates instead of wood. Consider flattening two “L” brackets to use for your steel plates.
To secure the door, install two hinges at the top corners, then install two latches at the bottom corners to lock the door. You can place a handle at the center point of the two latches to help with opening and closing the door.
2-5. Attach a sheet of metal inside the barrel to act as a mixing fin to help turn the compost when the barrel rotates.
A long spare piece of galvanized sheet metal bent into an “L” shape and bolted to the interior wall of the barrel will do this nicely. Put the fin opposite from the hatch, so as to weight balance the empty container.
2-6. Pass the pipe or post through the center holes.
When you’re ready, slide the pipe through the center holes. The length of pipe sticking out of each side of the barrel should be long enough to rest each end on the wooden structure you’ll create.
If you’re using a plastic barrel, the weight of the compost inside your tumbling composter can break the plastic, so before inserting the pipe through the holes secure two slabs of wood to the barrel to distribute the weight of the compost.
Take two slabs of wood, such as 2”x4” pieces, and drill into each piece a hole large enough to fit your pipe through. Line each hole up to the holes on either end of your barrel and nail the boards to the barrel.
Alternately, you can secure an “L” bracket to each side of the pipe, which will also distribute the weight of the compost.
2-7. Build a wooden saw buck to support the compost barrel.
Nail 2 sets of 2x4s (pieces of wood that are 1.5″ × 3.5″ or 38×89 mm in terms of height and width, respectively) in an x-frame, and nail two 2x4s across the feet at the bottom for support.
2-8. Set the barrel with the pipe in the wooden 2x4 saw buck.
2-9. Rotate the barrel in the sawhorse frame using the pipe or post as an axle to ensure it works properly.
If it does, you can now fill your tumbling composter with leaves and other compostable material, and allow your new "garden helper" to do its job.
Tips
If using a plastic barrel and it’s a really light color, like white, paint it black. Your container needs to heat up in order to break down the compost. The darker the container, the more light it soaks up to generate more heat.[6]
X
Research source
If your container has been used previously, wash it out very well before getting started. Also, rinse out your container after drilling your holes to get rid of the fragments left behind.
Check the contents occasionally, and when they are broken down by the bacteria in the drum, remove them to use for soil amending, mulch, and other purposes around your lawn and garden.
Warnings
Work carefully when operating machinery and sharp tools.
Wear ear and eye protection when needed.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:13",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building an On-the-Ground Tumbling Composter\\n1-1. Gather the materials needed to build an “on-the-ground” tumbling composter.\\nAn inexpensive and less complicated way to build your own tumbling composter is by creating an “on the ground” tumbling composter, which is simply a container outfitted to hold compost that you “turn” by simply rolling the container across the ground. Purchase or obtain a large cylindrical container with a lid that fits tight. A garbage can works best, and is likely the easiest to find. Select either a plastic or metal garbage can that will hold at least 30 gallons; large containers used for composting hold 55 gallons. Wash the garbage can or container thoroughly if it has been used. Additional materials you’ll need include:\\nTwo 48\\\" lengths of 1/2\\\" metal/aluminum pipe\\nOne 36\\\" length of 1/4\\\" steel threaded rod (zinc plated)\\nFour 2\\\" long 1/4\\\" bolts\\nEight 1/4\\\" nuts\\nA 1/4\\\" metal drill bit\\nA 7/8\\\" drill bit\\nDrill\\nHacksaw\\nMeasuring tape\\nEar and eye protection\\n2 elastic bungee cords that are the same length as the can's diameter (optional)\\n1-2. Drill two holes into the lid and bottom of your container using a 7/8” drill bit.\\nThe holes you’ll drill into the lid need to be 4” from the outer edge of the lid and directly across from each other, or specifically 180 degrees apart. The holes at the bottom of the container need to be 2” from the edge. You’ll need to place the holes at the bottom in a sunken part of the container’s base because you’ll be sticking metal or aluminum pipes through these holes and you want your tumbling composter to be able to stand upright once assembled.\\n1-3. Create aeration holes all over your container.\\nDrill several holes, about 15-20, into the top and bottom and along the sides of the container using your drill and a 1/4” drill bit. Space the holes evenly. The holes will allow oxygen to flow freely throughout your tumbling composter.\\n1-4. Drill two holes straight through each end of your two metal or aluminum pipes using a 1/4\\\" metal drill bit.\\nMake sure to place them as close to the end of pipes as possible. Doing so will enable your tumbling composter to stand up properly.\\n1-5. Drill two additional holes into each pipe, and then thread your rod through those holes.\\nOnce the pipes and connected rod are placed inside the container, the rod will need to rest in the middle of the container. Therefore, your two additional holes must measure at half the height of your container. Measure the height of your container and divide that measurement by two. The number you come up with will be the length you measure on your two pipes to determine where your two holes will be drilled. Use your 1/4\\\" metal drill to drill the two holes straight through the pipe.\\nBefore you thread your rod through the new holes, it’ll need to be cut down to size in order to fit inside your container. To do this, measure the diameter of the container at the point where the pipes’ holes will be. You found this point earlier by dividing the height of your container by two. When you come up with the diameter of the container, cut the rod 1” shorter than that, so it’ll fit easily inside the container.\\nSlide one end of the rod through one of the pipes until the pipe is about 3” from the other end of the rod. Then screw onto the rod two of the 1/4\\\" nuts. Start at the end of the rod that is farthest from the pole. Each nut should be about 4\\\" from each end of the rod. Once secured, the first nut will be right next to the pole, while the second nut will be about 4\\\" from the end of the rod. Once the second nut is secured, slide the rod through the second pipe, stopping when the pipe touches the 1/4\\\" nut. Secure the two pipes by screwing an additional 1/4\\\" nut on the outer edges of the rod next to each pipe.\\n1-6. Secure the pipe and rod structure to your container.\\nPlace the structure inside the container and then turn the container on its side to make it easier to thread the ends of the pipe through the two 7/8” holes in the bottom of the container. Secure the pipes by sliding a 2” bolt through the 1/4\\\" holes you drilled into the ends of the pipes, and then screwing two 1/4\\\" nuts onto the ends of each bolt. Stand the container upright and then secure the lid by threading the tops of the pipes through the two 7/8” holes.\\nYou’ll need to drill holes into the length of the pipes just above the lid, so that once bolted the lid will stay secure when you roll it on the ground.\\nUse a marker to mark the spots where you’ll drill your holes, and then to ensure your holes are even, disassemble your tumbling composter, and lie the pipes flat on the ground when you drill them.\\nDrill two holes straight through each pipe using the metal 1/4\\\" drill bit, and then reassemble your tumbling composter.\\n1-7. Fill your tumbling composter with composting ingredients and secure the lid.\\nTo secure the lid, follow the same method used to secure the pipes to the bottom of the container. Use two bolts and nuts on each side of the bolts, after you’ve filled your tumbling composter with composting ingredients. Slide one bolt through each of the 1/4\\\" holes you've just drilled, and then secure those bolts by attaching a 1/4\\\" nut to each end of the bolts. If necessary, you can secure bungee cords over the top of the container by laying them in a crisscross pattern over the lid and securing the cords either underneath the handles of the lid or through a few newly drilled holes.\\n1-8. Test the security of your lid by rolling your new tumbling composter across the ground.\\nMake sure your lid is tightly secured by rolling it across the ground. If dirt begins to spill from around the top, adjust your bolts, or tighten or obtain bungee cords to further tie down your lid.\\n2. Building a Barrel-Roll Tumbling Composter\\n2-1. Gather the materials needed to construct a “barrel-roll” tumbling composter.\\nIf you prefer to expend less energy turning your compost, building a “barrel-roll” tumbling composter will help. This type of tumbling composter sits atop a wooden structure and turns on an axle, such as a PVC or steel pipe, that runs directly through it. You’ll need to purchase or obtain a plastic or steel barrel, between 20 and 55 gallons (75-200 liters), including a 48 inch (1.25 meter) length of 2 inch (5 cm) schedule 80 PVC pipe, or a length of 1 1/2 to 2 inch (3.8-5 cm) galvanized steel pipe. You’ll also need:\\n2X4 treated lumber\\nNails\\nCircular saw\\nJigsaw\\nDrill motor, drill paddle bit, and drill bits\\nHole saw\\nBasic hand tools (hammer, measuring tape, flexible metal ruler, framing square)\\nHinges\\nLatches\\nDoor handle\\n“L” brackets\\n2-2. Drill holes in the center of the top and bottom of your barrel.\\nMeasure the diameter of each end of your barrel, and then divide that measurement by two to determine the center point. Your holes should be large enough to fit the pipe you’ll be using as the axle. If you can, cut off a small piece of your axle pipe, place it over each center mark, and trace a circle along the outside of the pipe. If you can’t, measure the diameter of your axle pipe and draw a circle of the same size around each center point. Once your circles have been created, use a drill paddle bit or hole saw of an equal size to create your holes.\\n2-3. Drill holes into the body of the barrel for aeration.\\nUsing a 1-inch (2.5 cm) bit space 15-20 holes evenly along the sides of the barrel. This will allow oxygen to flow freely throughout the container.\\n2-4. Create a door on the side of your barrel.\\nBefore you start cutting out a door, trace the shape of the door you want along one side of the barrel using a flexible metal ruler and a framing square. The measurements for the door will differ depending on the size of your barrel. If your barrel is on the smaller size, like 20 to 30 gallons, trace a 12” by 12” square. If it’s a 55 gallon barrel, you can outline an 18” by 12” rectangle. The longer side should be parallel to the length of the barrel.\\nMake a couple small holes in one of the corners using your drill to allow space for your jigsaw blade to start cutting. Continue to use the blade all the way around the outline of the door until the shape is removed.\\nThe door will likely be a bit flimsy once secured. If your barrel is plastic, secure two pieces of wood to the inside of the barrel, one along the side where you’ve placed your hatches and the other on the opposite end where you’ll place your latches and handle. If your barrel is metal, use two steel plates instead of wood. Consider flattening two “L” brackets to use for your steel plates.\\nTo secure the door, install two hinges at the top corners, then install two latches at the bottom corners to lock the door. You can place a handle at the center point of the two latches to help with opening and closing the door.\\n2-5. Attach a sheet of metal inside the barrel to act as a mixing fin to help turn the compost when the barrel rotates.\\nA long spare piece of galvanized sheet metal bent into an “L” shape and bolted to the interior wall of the barrel will do this nicely. Put the fin opposite from the hatch, so as to weight balance the empty container.\\n2-6. Pass the pipe or post through the center holes.\\nWhen you’re ready, slide the pipe through the center holes. The length of pipe sticking out of each side of the barrel should be long enough to rest each end on the wooden structure you’ll create.\\nIf you’re using a plastic barrel, the weight of the compost inside your tumbling composter can break the plastic, so before inserting the pipe through the holes secure two slabs of wood to the barrel to distribute the weight of the compost.\\nTake two slabs of wood, such as 2”x4” pieces, and drill into each piece a hole large enough to fit your pipe through. Line each hole up to the holes on either end of your barrel and nail the boards to the barrel.\\nAlternately, you can secure an “L” bracket to each side of the pipe, which will also distribute the weight of the compost.\\n2-7. Build a wooden saw buck to support the compost barrel.\\nNail 2 sets of 2x4s (pieces of wood that are 1.5″ × 3.5″ or 38×89 mm in terms of height and width, respectively) in an x-frame, and nail two 2x4s across the feet at the bottom for support.\\n2-8. Set the barrel with the pipe in the wooden 2x4 saw buck.\\n\\n2-9. Rotate the barrel in the sawhorse frame using the pipe or post as an axle to ensure it works properly.\\nIf it does, you can now fill your tumbling composter with leaves and other compostable material, and allow your new \\\"garden helper\\\" to do its job.\\nTips\\nIf using a plastic barrel and it’s a really light color, like white, paint it black. Your container needs to heat up in order to break down the compost. The darker the container, the more light it soaks up to generate more heat.[6]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nIf your container has been used previously, wash it out very well before getting started. Also, rinse out your container after drilling your holes to get rid of the fragments left behind.\\nCheck the contents occasionally, and when they are broken down by the bacteria in the drum, remove them to use for soil amending, mulch, and other purposes around your lawn and garden.\\nWarnings\\nWork carefully when operating machinery and sharp tools.\\nWear ear and eye protection when needed.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"One of the keys to successful composting is aeration. Bacteria need oxygen to carry out the aerobic respiration that creates a rich compost. One way to aerate your compost is with a pitchfork or a compost turning tool. This can be an arduous task. Using a tumbling composter can make things easier. Since most tumbling composters can be fairly expensive, costing well over $100, consider building your own. For much less money and a few hours of your time, you can build your own tumbling composter by following the steps below.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building an On-the-Ground Tumbling Composter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the materials needed to build an “on-the-ground” tumbling composter.\", \"描述\": \"An inexpensive and less complicated way to build your own tumbling composter is by creating an “on the ground” tumbling composter, which is simply a container outfitted to hold compost that you “turn” by simply rolling the container across the ground. Purchase or obtain a large cylindrical container with a lid that fits tight. A garbage can works best, and is likely the easiest to find. Select either a plastic or metal garbage can that will hold at least 30 gallons; large containers used for composting hold 55 gallons. Wash the garbage can or container thoroughly if it has been used. Additional materials you’ll need include:\\nTwo 48\\\" lengths of 1/2\\\" metal/aluminum pipe\\nOne 36\\\" length of 1/4\\\" steel threaded rod (zinc plated)\\nFour 2\\\" long 1/4\\\" bolts\\nEight 1/4\\\" nuts\\nA 1/4\\\" metal drill bit\\nA 7/8\\\" drill bit\\nDrill\\nHacksaw\\nMeasuring tape\\nEar and eye protection\\n2 elastic bungee cords that are the same length as the can's diameter (optional)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill two holes into the lid and bottom of your container using a 7/8” drill bit.\", \"描述\": \"The holes you’ll drill into the lid need to be 4” from the outer edge of the lid and directly across from each other, or specifically 180 degrees apart. The holes at the bottom of the container need to be 2” from the edge. You’ll need to place the holes at the bottom in a sunken part of the container’s base because you’ll be sticking metal or aluminum pipes through these holes and you want your tumbling composter to be able to stand upright once assembled.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create aeration holes all over your container.\", \"描述\": \"Drill several holes, about 15-20, into the top and bottom and along the sides of the container using your drill and a 1/4” drill bit. Space the holes evenly. The holes will allow oxygen to flow freely throughout your tumbling composter.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill two holes straight through each end of your two metal or aluminum pipes using a 1/4\\\" metal drill bit.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to place them as close to the end of pipes as possible. Doing so will enable your tumbling composter to stand up properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill two additional holes into each pipe, and then thread your rod through those holes.\", \"描述\": \"Once the pipes and connected rod are placed inside the container, the rod will need to rest in the middle of the container. Therefore, your two additional holes must measure at half the height of your container. Measure the height of your container and divide that measurement by two. The number you come up with will be the length you measure on your two pipes to determine where your two holes will be drilled. Use your 1/4\\\" metal drill to drill the two holes straight through the pipe.\\nBefore you thread your rod through the new holes, it’ll need to be cut down to size in order to fit inside your container. To do this, measure the diameter of the container at the point where the pipes’ holes will be. You found this point earlier by dividing the height of your container by two. When you come up with the diameter of the container, cut the rod 1” shorter than that, so it’ll fit easily inside the container.\\nSlide one end of the rod through one of the pipes until the pipe is about 3” from the other end of the rod. Then screw onto the rod two of the 1/4\\\" nuts. Start at the end of the rod that is farthest from the pole. Each nut should be about 4\\\" from each end of the rod. Once secured, the first nut will be right next to the pole, while the second nut will be about 4\\\" from the end of the rod. Once the second nut is secured, slide the rod through the second pipe, stopping when the pipe touches the 1/4\\\" nut. Secure the two pipes by screwing an additional 1/4\\\" nut on the outer edges of the rod next to each pipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Secure the pipe and rod structure to your container.\", \"描述\": \"Place the structure inside the container and then turn the container on its side to make it easier to thread the ends of the pipe through the two 7/8” holes in the bottom of the container. Secure the pipes by sliding a 2” bolt through the 1/4\\\" holes you drilled into the ends of the pipes, and then screwing two 1/4\\\" nuts onto the ends of each bolt. Stand the container upright and then secure the lid by threading the tops of the pipes through the two 7/8” holes.\\nYou’ll need to drill holes into the length of the pipes just above the lid, so that once bolted the lid will stay secure when you roll it on the ground.\\nUse a marker to mark the spots where you’ll drill your holes, and then to ensure your holes are even, disassemble your tumbling composter, and lie the pipes flat on the ground when you drill them.\\nDrill two holes straight through each pipe using the metal 1/4\\\" drill bit, and then reassemble your tumbling composter.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fill your tumbling composter with composting ingredients and secure the lid.\", \"描述\": \"To secure the lid, follow the same method used to secure the pipes to the bottom of the container. Use two bolts and nuts on each side of the bolts, after you’ve filled your tumbling composter with composting ingredients. Slide one bolt through each of the 1/4\\\" holes you've just drilled, and then secure those bolts by attaching a 1/4\\\" nut to each end of the bolts. If necessary, you can secure bungee cords over the top of the container by laying them in a crisscross pattern over the lid and securing the cords either underneath the handles of the lid or through a few newly drilled holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Test the security of your lid by rolling your new tumbling composter across the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure your lid is tightly secured by rolling it across the ground. If dirt begins to spill from around the top, adjust your bolts, or tighten or obtain bungee cords to further tie down your lid.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Barrel-Roll Tumbling Composter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the materials needed to construct a “barrel-roll” tumbling composter.\", \"描述\": \"If you prefer to expend less energy turning your compost, building a “barrel-roll” tumbling composter will help. This type of tumbling composter sits atop a wooden structure and turns on an axle, such as a PVC or steel pipe, that runs directly through it. You’ll need to purchase or obtain a plastic or steel barrel, between 20 and 55 gallons (75-200 liters), including a 48 inch (1.25 meter) length of 2 inch (5 cm) schedule 80 PVC pipe, or a length of 1 1/2 to 2 inch (3.8-5 cm) galvanized steel pipe. You’ll also need:\\n2X4 treated lumber\\nNails\\nCircular saw\\nJigsaw\\nDrill motor, drill paddle bit, and drill bits\\nHole saw\\nBasic hand tools (hammer, measuring tape, flexible metal ruler, framing square)\\nHinges\\nLatches\\nDoor handle\\n“L” brackets\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill holes in the center of the top and bottom of your barrel.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the diameter of each end of your barrel, and then divide that measurement by two to determine the center point. Your holes should be large enough to fit the pipe you’ll be using as the axle. If you can, cut off a small piece of your axle pipe, place it over each center mark, and trace a circle along the outside of the pipe. If you can’t, measure the diameter of your axle pipe and draw a circle of the same size around each center point. Once your circles have been created, use a drill paddle bit or hole saw of an equal size to create your holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill holes into the body of the barrel for aeration.\", \"描述\": \"Using a 1-inch (2.5 cm) bit space 15-20 holes evenly along the sides of the barrel. This will allow oxygen to flow freely throughout the container.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a door on the side of your barrel.\", \"描述\": \"Before you start cutting out a door, trace the shape of the door you want along one side of the barrel using a flexible metal ruler and a framing square. The measurements for the door will differ depending on the size of your barrel. If your barrel is on the smaller size, like 20 to 30 gallons, trace a 12” by 12” square. If it’s a 55 gallon barrel, you can outline an 18” by 12” rectangle. The longer side should be parallel to the length of the barrel.\\nMake a couple small holes in one of the corners using your drill to allow space for your jigsaw blade to start cutting. Continue to use the blade all the way around the outline of the door until the shape is removed.\\nThe door will likely be a bit flimsy once secured. If your barrel is plastic, secure two pieces of wood to the inside of the barrel, one along the side where you’ve placed your hatches and the other on the opposite end where you’ll place your latches and handle. If your barrel is metal, use two steel plates instead of wood. Consider flattening two “L” brackets to use for your steel plates.\\nTo secure the door, install two hinges at the top corners, then install two latches at the bottom corners to lock the door. You can place a handle at the center point of the two latches to help with opening and closing the door.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach a sheet of metal inside the barrel to act as a mixing fin to help turn the compost when the barrel rotates.\", \"描述\": \"A long spare piece of galvanized sheet metal bent into an “L” shape and bolted to the interior wall of the barrel will do this nicely. Put the fin opposite from the hatch, so as to weight balance the empty container.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pass the pipe or post through the center holes.\", \"描述\": \"When you’re ready, slide the pipe through the center holes. The length of pipe sticking out of each side of the barrel should be long enough to rest each end on the wooden structure you’ll create.\\nIf you’re using a plastic barrel, the weight of the compost inside your tumbling composter can break the plastic, so before inserting the pipe through the holes secure two slabs of wood to the barrel to distribute the weight of the compost.\\nTake two slabs of wood, such as 2”x4” pieces, and drill into each piece a hole large enough to fit your pipe through. Line each hole up to the holes on either end of your barrel and nail the boards to the barrel.\\nAlternately, you can secure an “L” bracket to each side of the pipe, which will also distribute the weight of the compost.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Build a wooden saw buck to support the compost barrel.\", \"描述\": \"Nail 2 sets of 2x4s (pieces of wood that are 1.5″ × 3.5″ or 38×89 mm in terms of height and width, respectively) in an x-frame, and nail two 2x4s across the feet at the bottom for support.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Set the barrel with the pipe in the wooden 2x4 saw buck.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Rotate the barrel in the sawhorse frame using the pipe or post as an axle to ensure it works properly.\", \"描述\": \"If it does, you can now fill your tumbling composter with leaves and other compostable material, and allow your new \\\"garden helper\\\" to do its job.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If using a plastic barrel and it’s a really light color, like white, paint it black. Your container needs to heat up in order to break down the compost. The darker the container, the more light it soaks up to generate more heat.[6]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"If your container has been used previously, wash it out very well before getting started. Also, rinse out your container after drilling your holes to get rid of the fragments left behind.\\n\", \"Check the contents occasionally, and when they are broken down by the bacteria in the drum, remove them to use for soil amending, mulch, and other purposes around your lawn and garden.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Work carefully when operating machinery and sharp tools.\\n\", \"Wear ear and eye protection when needed.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,603 |
How to Build a Tunnel
|
1. Considerations
1-1. Consider where the tunnel will be built.
The proposed tunnel’s location will determine what tools and techniques are necessary to construct it and prepare it for its intended use. Tunnels can be divided into 3 types:
Soft-ground tunnels. These tunnels require support at the openings to keep the tunnel from collapsing. These tunnels are usually shallow and used for subways, water delivery, and wastewater removal systems.
Rock tunnels. Because they are excavated from solid rock, these tunnels require little added support or none at all. Train and car tunnels are usually of this variety.
Underwater tunnels. As the name indicates, these tunnels go under rivers, lakes, canals, and in the case of the “Chunnel,” straits such as the English Channel. These are the hardest tunnels to build, as water has to be kept away from the tunnel during and after construction.
Building a tunnel under a city offers problems similar to an underwater tunnel, in that the ground around the tunnel tends to sag under the weight of the buildings above it. A knowledge of the area’s geology helps predict how much the ground will sag and suggests what methods can minimize the sagging.
1-2. Consider the tunnel’s path.
A tunnel with a long, single, straight path is comparatively easy to bore with a tunnel boring machine. Tunnels that differ from this design offer problems that make constructing them more complex.
Short tunnels aren’t bored with tunnel boring machines because it isn’t cost-efficient to do so.
Tunnels that require different bore diameters at different parts of their routes also make the use of a tunnel boring machine impractical because of delays in adjusting the bore diameter.
Tunnels that turn sharp corners or have intersecting shafts also make use of a boring machine impractical.
1-3. Consider the tunnel’s purpose.
What the tunnel will be used for determines what additional work besides making the tunnel itself will be necessary before putting it into service.
Tunnels that carry passengers require some form of ventilation. For roadway tunnels, this usually means ventilation shafts to prevent buildup of carbon monoxide. For railway tunnels, this can mean forced-air ventilation to remove diesel engine exhaust. Both feature supplemental methods to deal with the smoke created should a fire break out in the tunnel.
Heavily-used tunnels, such as the Big Dig in Boston, may feature continuously manned operations centers with video equipment to monitor traffic within the tunnel and deal with emergencies.
Long roadway tunnels, such as the Eisenhower Tunnel in Colorado, may be lit with overhead lights for the convenience of drivers and passengers. Other roadway tunnels, such as those in Zion National Park in Utah, may feature scenic cutouts to allow natural light to enter the tunnel in places and provide passengers glimpses of the surrounding scenery.
Some tunnels, such as the Queensway Tunnel between Liverpool and Birkenhead, England and the Lion Rock Tunnel between Sha Tin and New Kowloon in Hong Kong, combine an upper passenger traffic deck with a lower service deck for water, pipes, or cables. Other tunnels, such as Malaysia’s SMART Tunnel can be used for either traffic or flood control.
2. Cut-and-Cover Method
2-1. Dig a trench.
The area where the tunnel will be is dug out completely, with the tunnel roof to be created and covered over when the tunnel is completed. This type of tunnel is constructed in one of two ways:
Bottom-up: Ground support is created first, then the tunnel is built up around it.
Top-down: The tunnel’s sides and roof are constructed at ground level, and the tunnel trench is dug out under it.
Both methods are used primarily for shallower tunnels, although the top-down method allows for digging deeper tunnels than the bottom-up method. Deeper tunnels are often excavated with the assistance of a tunneling shield, a box-like structure with small shutters opened to dig through. Once the dirt in front of the shield is removed, the shield is moved forward to continue digging.
2-2. Create the tunnel walls and roof.
The tunnel walls and roof can be built as the tunnel is being dug or may be pre-constructed and put into place as the tunnel is being dug. Materials today include the following:
Corrugated steel arches.
Precast concrete arches.
Precast concrete walls.
Poured or sprayed concrete. Often, this is used in conjunction with one of the formed-arch methods.
2-3. Complete the tunnel.
How this is done depends on whether the bottom-up or top-down method was used.
Tunnels created with the bottom-up method must be back-filled to cover over the tunnel roof and any surface that is to exist above the tunnel roof is then built or rebuilt.
Tunnels created with the top-down method are dug out below where the tunnel walls and roof were erected, and then a base slab, which serves as the tunnel floor, is created.
3. Immersed Tubes
3-1. Dredge a trench when the tunnel will go.
This method is similar to the cut-and-cover method, but is used for digging underwater tunnels. The trench needs to run the length the tunnel will run underwater.
3-2. Lay a series of steel tubes along the length of the trench.
Each tube is sealed at either end with a bulkhead. If the tube is for a car tunnel, as in the case of the Ted Williams Tunnel in Boston, the tubes include pre-built road sections.
3-3. Encase the tube with enough backfill to withstand the water pressure above it.
For the Ted Williams Tunnel, this was a 5-foot-thick (1.5 m-thick) layer of rock.
3-4. Connect the tubes by removing the intervening bulkheads.
Any road or rail segments built into the tubes would be connected at this time as well.
4. Tunnel Boring Machines
4-1. Choose the right tunneling machine for the job.
Tunnel boring machines, called TBMs for short or “moles,” feature circular plates on the front called shields. Disc-shaped cutters on the shield tear through rock and dirt, which passes through openings in the shield onto a conveyor belt inside the TBM that deposit it behind the machine.
The types of TBM shields vary according to whether the mole is to dig into soft, wet ground or hard rock. Shield diameters range from Aker Wirth’s 26.3-foot (8.03 m) shield on its TBM used for Switzerland’s Linth-Limmern power stations to Hitachi Zosen’s “Big Bertha,” with its diameter of 57.5 feet (17.5 m).
Moles designed to dig tunnels below the water table also feature chambers at the front to pressurize the ground being dug through.
For large jobs, multiple TBMs may be called for. The Channel Tunnel required 11.
4-2. Get the machine into position.
For a surface level tunnel, this is no problem. If the tunnel is to be bored deep underground, an access shaft, usually circular, is drilled and lined with concrete. The TBM is lowered into it, and the tunnel is excavated from that point.
For long tunnels, multiple access shafts are drilled.
When the tunnel is finished, the access shafts may become ventilation shafts and/or emergency exits. If they are not so employed, they are left in place for the life of the tunnel.
4-3. Erect tunnel supports as the machine bores through.
Segments of pre-cast concrete are erected behind the TBM to form a ring at pre-determined intervals.
4-4. Spray concrete on the excavated walls between the support rings.
The sprayed concrete, or shotcrete, coats and stabilizes the tunnel walls. The shotcrete may include steel or polypropylene fibers to strengthen it, much the way steel rebar is used to strengthen cast concrete. The shotcrete also contains an accelerant to help it stick to the tunnel walls and dry quickly.
Tips
Early tunnels were bored through rock by drilling holes and using explosives: first black powder and later dynamite. Temporary supports of wooden frames would be erected, replaced by brick and masonry. Later tunnels used segmented cast iron rings, bolted together, in place of the wood and masonry.[13]
X
Research source
Tunnels can also be drilled through soft earth by using jacks to push either tubes/pipes or box-shaped excavators tipped with cutting heads. Pipe-jacked tunnels tend to be narrow, no more than 10.5 feet (3.2 m) in diameter, while box-jacked tunnels can be as wide as 65.6 feet (20 m).[14]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:13",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Considerations\\n1-1. Consider where the tunnel will be built.\\nThe proposed tunnel’s location will determine what tools and techniques are necessary to construct it and prepare it for its intended use. Tunnels can be divided into 3 types:\\nSoft-ground tunnels. These tunnels require support at the openings to keep the tunnel from collapsing. These tunnels are usually shallow and used for subways, water delivery, and wastewater removal systems.\\nRock tunnels. Because they are excavated from solid rock, these tunnels require little added support or none at all. Train and car tunnels are usually of this variety.\\nUnderwater tunnels. As the name indicates, these tunnels go under rivers, lakes, canals, and in the case of the “Chunnel,” straits such as the English Channel. These are the hardest tunnels to build, as water has to be kept away from the tunnel during and after construction.\\nBuilding a tunnel under a city offers problems similar to an underwater tunnel, in that the ground around the tunnel tends to sag under the weight of the buildings above it. A knowledge of the area’s geology helps predict how much the ground will sag and suggests what methods can minimize the sagging.\\n1-2. Consider the tunnel’s path.\\nA tunnel with a long, single, straight path is comparatively easy to bore with a tunnel boring machine. Tunnels that differ from this design offer problems that make constructing them more complex.\\nShort tunnels aren’t bored with tunnel boring machines because it isn’t cost-efficient to do so.\\nTunnels that require different bore diameters at different parts of their routes also make the use of a tunnel boring machine impractical because of delays in adjusting the bore diameter.\\nTunnels that turn sharp corners or have intersecting shafts also make use of a boring machine impractical.\\n1-3. Consider the tunnel’s purpose.\\nWhat the tunnel will be used for determines what additional work besides making the tunnel itself will be necessary before putting it into service.\\nTunnels that carry passengers require some form of ventilation. For roadway tunnels, this usually means ventilation shafts to prevent buildup of carbon monoxide. For railway tunnels, this can mean forced-air ventilation to remove diesel engine exhaust. Both feature supplemental methods to deal with the smoke created should a fire break out in the tunnel.\\nHeavily-used tunnels, such as the Big Dig in Boston, may feature continuously manned operations centers with video equipment to monitor traffic within the tunnel and deal with emergencies.\\nLong roadway tunnels, such as the Eisenhower Tunnel in Colorado, may be lit with overhead lights for the convenience of drivers and passengers. Other roadway tunnels, such as those in Zion National Park in Utah, may feature scenic cutouts to allow natural light to enter the tunnel in places and provide passengers glimpses of the surrounding scenery.\\nSome tunnels, such as the Queensway Tunnel between Liverpool and Birkenhead, England and the Lion Rock Tunnel between Sha Tin and New Kowloon in Hong Kong, combine an upper passenger traffic deck with a lower service deck for water, pipes, or cables. Other tunnels, such as Malaysia’s SMART Tunnel can be used for either traffic or flood control.\\n2. Cut-and-Cover Method\\n2-1. Dig a trench.\\nThe area where the tunnel will be is dug out completely, with the tunnel roof to be created and covered over when the tunnel is completed. This type of tunnel is constructed in one of two ways:\\nBottom-up: Ground support is created first, then the tunnel is built up around it.\\nTop-down: The tunnel’s sides and roof are constructed at ground level, and the tunnel trench is dug out under it.\\nBoth methods are used primarily for shallower tunnels, although the top-down method allows for digging deeper tunnels than the bottom-up method. Deeper tunnels are often excavated with the assistance of a tunneling shield, a box-like structure with small shutters opened to dig through. Once the dirt in front of the shield is removed, the shield is moved forward to continue digging.\\n2-2. Create the tunnel walls and roof.\\nThe tunnel walls and roof can be built as the tunnel is being dug or may be pre-constructed and put into place as the tunnel is being dug. Materials today include the following:\\nCorrugated steel arches.\\nPrecast concrete arches.\\nPrecast concrete walls.\\nPoured or sprayed concrete. Often, this is used in conjunction with one of the formed-arch methods.\\n2-3. Complete the tunnel.\\nHow this is done depends on whether the bottom-up or top-down method was used.\\nTunnels created with the bottom-up method must be back-filled to cover over the tunnel roof and any surface that is to exist above the tunnel roof is then built or rebuilt.\\nTunnels created with the top-down method are dug out below where the tunnel walls and roof were erected, and then a base slab, which serves as the tunnel floor, is created.\\n3. Immersed Tubes\\n3-1. Dredge a trench when the tunnel will go.\\nThis method is similar to the cut-and-cover method, but is used for digging underwater tunnels. The trench needs to run the length the tunnel will run underwater.\\n3-2. Lay a series of steel tubes along the length of the trench.\\nEach tube is sealed at either end with a bulkhead. If the tube is for a car tunnel, as in the case of the Ted Williams Tunnel in Boston, the tubes include pre-built road sections.\\n3-3. Encase the tube with enough backfill to withstand the water pressure above it.\\nFor the Ted Williams Tunnel, this was a 5-foot-thick (1.5 m-thick) layer of rock.\\n3-4. Connect the tubes by removing the intervening bulkheads.\\nAny road or rail segments built into the tubes would be connected at this time as well.\\n4. Tunnel Boring Machines\\n4-1. Choose the right tunneling machine for the job.\\nTunnel boring machines, called TBMs for short or “moles,” feature circular plates on the front called shields. Disc-shaped cutters on the shield tear through rock and dirt, which passes through openings in the shield onto a conveyor belt inside the TBM that deposit it behind the machine.\\nThe types of TBM shields vary according to whether the mole is to dig into soft, wet ground or hard rock. Shield diameters range from Aker Wirth’s 26.3-foot (8.03 m) shield on its TBM used for Switzerland’s Linth-Limmern power stations to Hitachi Zosen’s “Big Bertha,” with its diameter of 57.5 feet (17.5 m).\\nMoles designed to dig tunnels below the water table also feature chambers at the front to pressurize the ground being dug through.\\nFor large jobs, multiple TBMs may be called for. The Channel Tunnel required 11.\\n4-2. Get the machine into position.\\nFor a surface level tunnel, this is no problem. If the tunnel is to be bored deep underground, an access shaft, usually circular, is drilled and lined with concrete. The TBM is lowered into it, and the tunnel is excavated from that point.\\nFor long tunnels, multiple access shafts are drilled.\\nWhen the tunnel is finished, the access shafts may become ventilation shafts and/or emergency exits. If they are not so employed, they are left in place for the life of the tunnel.\\n4-3. Erect tunnel supports as the machine bores through.\\nSegments of pre-cast concrete are erected behind the TBM to form a ring at pre-determined intervals.\\n4-4. Spray concrete on the excavated walls between the support rings.\\nThe sprayed concrete, or shotcrete, coats and stabilizes the tunnel walls. The shotcrete may include steel or polypropylene fibers to strengthen it, much the way steel rebar is used to strengthen cast concrete. The shotcrete also contains an accelerant to help it stick to the tunnel walls and dry quickly.\\nTips\\nEarly tunnels were bored through rock by drilling holes and using explosives: first black powder and later dynamite. Temporary supports of wooden frames would be erected, replaced by brick and masonry. Later tunnels used segmented cast iron rings, bolted together, in place of the wood and masonry.[13]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nTunnels can also be drilled through soft earth by using jacks to push either tubes/pipes or box-shaped excavators tipped with cutting heads. Pipe-jacked tunnels tend to be narrow, no more than 10.5 feet (3.2 m) in diameter, while box-jacked tunnels can be as wide as 65.6 feet (20 m).[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Tunnels were originally constructed as part of water delivery and sewage systems, dating back to the days of the Roman Empire. Their first use for transportation was as part of canal systems in the 17th century. With the development of railroads in the 19th century and automobiles in the 20th, tunnels became longer and more complex. The most common methods for building tunnels are the cut-and-cover method, the immersed tube method, or the use of a tunnel boring machine.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Considerations\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider where the tunnel will be built.\", \"描述\": \"The proposed tunnel’s location will determine what tools and techniques are necessary to construct it and prepare it for its intended use. Tunnels can be divided into 3 types:\\nSoft-ground tunnels. These tunnels require support at the openings to keep the tunnel from collapsing. These tunnels are usually shallow and used for subways, water delivery, and wastewater removal systems.\\nRock tunnels. Because they are excavated from solid rock, these tunnels require little added support or none at all. Train and car tunnels are usually of this variety.\\nUnderwater tunnels. As the name indicates, these tunnels go under rivers, lakes, canals, and in the case of the “Chunnel,” straits such as the English Channel. These are the hardest tunnels to build, as water has to be kept away from the tunnel during and after construction.\\nBuilding a tunnel under a city offers problems similar to an underwater tunnel, in that the ground around the tunnel tends to sag under the weight of the buildings above it. A knowledge of the area’s geology helps predict how much the ground will sag and suggests what methods can minimize the sagging.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider the tunnel’s path.\", \"描述\": \"A tunnel with a long, single, straight path is comparatively easy to bore with a tunnel boring machine. Tunnels that differ from this design offer problems that make constructing them more complex.\\nShort tunnels aren’t bored with tunnel boring machines because it isn’t cost-efficient to do so.\\nTunnels that require different bore diameters at different parts of their routes also make the use of a tunnel boring machine impractical because of delays in adjusting the bore diameter.\\nTunnels that turn sharp corners or have intersecting shafts also make use of a boring machine impractical.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider the tunnel’s purpose.\", \"描述\": \"What the tunnel will be used for determines what additional work besides making the tunnel itself will be necessary before putting it into service.\\nTunnels that carry passengers require some form of ventilation. For roadway tunnels, this usually means ventilation shafts to prevent buildup of carbon monoxide. For railway tunnels, this can mean forced-air ventilation to remove diesel engine exhaust. Both feature supplemental methods to deal with the smoke created should a fire break out in the tunnel.\\nHeavily-used tunnels, such as the Big Dig in Boston, may feature continuously manned operations centers with video equipment to monitor traffic within the tunnel and deal with emergencies.\\nLong roadway tunnels, such as the Eisenhower Tunnel in Colorado, may be lit with overhead lights for the convenience of drivers and passengers. Other roadway tunnels, such as those in Zion National Park in Utah, may feature scenic cutouts to allow natural light to enter the tunnel in places and provide passengers glimpses of the surrounding scenery.\\nSome tunnels, such as the Queensway Tunnel between Liverpool and Birkenhead, England and the Lion Rock Tunnel between Sha Tin and New Kowloon in Hong Kong, combine an upper passenger traffic deck with a lower service deck for water, pipes, or cables. Other tunnels, such as Malaysia’s SMART Tunnel can be used for either traffic or flood control.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut-and-Cover Method\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig a trench.\", \"描述\": \"The area where the tunnel will be is dug out completely, with the tunnel roof to be created and covered over when the tunnel is completed. This type of tunnel is constructed in one of two ways:\\nBottom-up: Ground support is created first, then the tunnel is built up around it.\\nTop-down: The tunnel’s sides and roof are constructed at ground level, and the tunnel trench is dug out under it.\\nBoth methods are used primarily for shallower tunnels, although the top-down method allows for digging deeper tunnels than the bottom-up method. Deeper tunnels are often excavated with the assistance of a tunneling shield, a box-like structure with small shutters opened to dig through. Once the dirt in front of the shield is removed, the shield is moved forward to continue digging.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create the tunnel walls and roof.\", \"描述\": \"The tunnel walls and roof can be built as the tunnel is being dug or may be pre-constructed and put into place as the tunnel is being dug. Materials today include the following:\\nCorrugated steel arches.\\nPrecast concrete arches.\\nPrecast concrete walls.\\nPoured or sprayed concrete. Often, this is used in conjunction with one of the formed-arch methods.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Complete the tunnel.\", \"描述\": \"How this is done depends on whether the bottom-up or top-down method was used.\\nTunnels created with the bottom-up method must be back-filled to cover over the tunnel roof and any surface that is to exist above the tunnel roof is then built or rebuilt.\\nTunnels created with the top-down method are dug out below where the tunnel walls and roof were erected, and then a base slab, which serves as the tunnel floor, is created.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Immersed Tubes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dredge a trench when the tunnel will go.\", \"描述\": \"This method is similar to the cut-and-cover method, but is used for digging underwater tunnels. The trench needs to run the length the tunnel will run underwater.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay a series of steel tubes along the length of the trench.\", \"描述\": \"Each tube is sealed at either end with a bulkhead. If the tube is for a car tunnel, as in the case of the Ted Williams Tunnel in Boston, the tubes include pre-built road sections.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Encase the tube with enough backfill to withstand the water pressure above it.\", \"描述\": \"For the Ted Williams Tunnel, this was a 5-foot-thick (1.5 m-thick) layer of rock.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the tubes by removing the intervening bulkheads.\", \"描述\": \"Any road or rail segments built into the tubes would be connected at this time as well.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tunnel Boring Machines\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the right tunneling machine for the job.\", \"描述\": \"Tunnel boring machines, called TBMs for short or “moles,” feature circular plates on the front called shields. Disc-shaped cutters on the shield tear through rock and dirt, which passes through openings in the shield onto a conveyor belt inside the TBM that deposit it behind the machine.\\nThe types of TBM shields vary according to whether the mole is to dig into soft, wet ground or hard rock. Shield diameters range from Aker Wirth’s 26.3-foot (8.03 m) shield on its TBM used for Switzerland’s Linth-Limmern power stations to Hitachi Zosen’s “Big Bertha,” with its diameter of 57.5 feet (17.5 m).\\nMoles designed to dig tunnels below the water table also feature chambers at the front to pressurize the ground being dug through.\\nFor large jobs, multiple TBMs may be called for. The Channel Tunnel required 11.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get the machine into position.\", \"描述\": \"For a surface level tunnel, this is no problem. If the tunnel is to be bored deep underground, an access shaft, usually circular, is drilled and lined with concrete. The TBM is lowered into it, and the tunnel is excavated from that point.\\nFor long tunnels, multiple access shafts are drilled.\\nWhen the tunnel is finished, the access shafts may become ventilation shafts and/or emergency exits. If they are not so employed, they are left in place for the life of the tunnel.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Erect tunnel supports as the machine bores through.\", \"描述\": \"Segments of pre-cast concrete are erected behind the TBM to form a ring at pre-determined intervals.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Spray concrete on the excavated walls between the support rings.\", \"描述\": \"The sprayed concrete, or shotcrete, coats and stabilizes the tunnel walls. The shotcrete may include steel or polypropylene fibers to strengthen it, much the way steel rebar is used to strengthen cast concrete. The shotcrete also contains an accelerant to help it stick to the tunnel walls and dry quickly.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Early tunnels were bored through rock by drilling holes and using explosives: first black powder and later dynamite. Temporary supports of wooden frames would be erected, replaced by brick and masonry. Later tunnels used segmented cast iron rings, bolted together, in place of the wood and masonry.[13]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Tunnels can also be drilled through soft earth by using jacks to push either tubes/pipes or box-shaped excavators tipped with cutting heads. Pipe-jacked tunnels tend to be narrow, no more than 10.5 feet (3.2 m) in diameter, while box-jacked tunnels can be as wide as 65.6 feet (20 m).[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,604 |
How to Build a Twig Chair
|
1. Steps
1-1. Look in your yard for twigs.
You want to use straight, bendable green twigs that are 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) to 1 inch (2.54 cm) in diameter from soft wooded trees when designing branch chairs.
Snip a variety of sizes and lengths with pruning clippers so you'll have plenty of twigs to work with.
Place twigs in a bucket of water to keep them fresh.
1-2. Cut the legs for your twig chair.
Use twigs with a 1 inch (2.54 cm) diameter. To build a wicker chair, you need strong legs, and these branches will become the back and front legs of your twig chair.
Cut 2 pieces 12 inches (30.48 cm) long with a bow saw. When designing wicker chairs, the back legs can extend to the back frame.
Saw 2 pieces 4 inches (10.16 cm) long with a bow saw. These will become the front legs of your twig chair.
1-3. Slice 10 twigs with a 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) diameter into 4 inch (10.16 cm) pieces with pruning clippers.
To design a twig chair, you want a supportive frame, and these will provide that support.
1-4. Soak the cut twigs in the bucket of water for at least 20 minutes.
To build a wicker chair, you want twigs that are soft and pliable.
1-5. Prepare the front legs of the chair.
Bore 1 set of holes 1 inch (2.54 cm) down from the top of the branches about 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) deep with a drill.
Drill another set of holes 2 inches (5.08 cm) from the bottom of the twigs about 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) deep. To design a twig chair, you are aiming for balance, and these holes need to line up.
1-6. Whittle the ends of the thinner 4 inch (10.16 cm) long twigs with a utility knife so that they will fit into the holes you drilled.
1-7. Glue the short twigs into the legs.
Squeeze wood glue in the holes you drilled.
Fit the 4 inch (10.16 cm) whittled twigs into the holes. Imagine a ladder when building twig chairs, because that is what the back and front legs will look like.
Clamp the pieces together with a large rubber band and let it dry.
1-8. Prepare the back legs.
Drill 4 sets of holes approximately 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) deep in the back legs.
Bore the top set of holes anywhere you like, keeping in mind that when you build a wicker chair, the holes on the back legs must match.
Drill the other sets of holes so that they will line up with the front legs.
1-9. Follow the directions for gluing the short sticks into the front legs for the back legs.
1-10. Cut small twigs the size of the base.
To build a wicker chair, you'll need a seat. Glue the sticks and attach them to the seat base.
1-11. Let the chair set overnight.
Tips
If you don't have trees in your yard, you can collect twigs from a friend's house. Be sure to ask permission before you start cutting branches from their trees.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:13",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Look in your yard for twigs.\\nYou want to use straight, bendable green twigs that are 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) to 1 inch (2.54 cm) in diameter from soft wooded trees when designing branch chairs.\\nSnip a variety of sizes and lengths with pruning clippers so you'll have plenty of twigs to work with.\\nPlace twigs in a bucket of water to keep them fresh.\\n1-2. Cut the legs for your twig chair.\\nUse twigs with a 1 inch (2.54 cm) diameter. To build a wicker chair, you need strong legs, and these branches will become the back and front legs of your twig chair.\\nCut 2 pieces 12 inches (30.48 cm) long with a bow saw. When designing wicker chairs, the back legs can extend to the back frame.\\nSaw 2 pieces 4 inches (10.16 cm) long with a bow saw. These will become the front legs of your twig chair.\\n1-3. Slice 10 twigs with a 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) diameter into 4 inch (10.16 cm) pieces with pruning clippers.\\nTo design a twig chair, you want a supportive frame, and these will provide that support.\\n1-4. Soak the cut twigs in the bucket of water for at least 20 minutes.\\nTo build a wicker chair, you want twigs that are soft and pliable.\\n1-5. Prepare the front legs of the chair.\\nBore 1 set of holes 1 inch (2.54 cm) down from the top of the branches about 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) deep with a drill.\\nDrill another set of holes 2 inches (5.08 cm) from the bottom of the twigs about 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) deep. To design a twig chair, you are aiming for balance, and these holes need to line up.\\n1-6. Whittle the ends of the thinner 4 inch (10.16 cm) long twigs with a utility knife so that they will fit into the holes you drilled.\\n\\n1-7. Glue the short twigs into the legs.\\nSqueeze wood glue in the holes you drilled.\\nFit the 4 inch (10.16 cm) whittled twigs into the holes. Imagine a ladder when building twig chairs, because that is what the back and front legs will look like.\\nClamp the pieces together with a large rubber band and let it dry.\\n1-8. Prepare the back legs.\\nDrill 4 sets of holes approximately 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) deep in the back legs.\\nBore the top set of holes anywhere you like, keeping in mind that when you build a wicker chair, the holes on the back legs must match.\\nDrill the other sets of holes so that they will line up with the front legs.\\n1-9. Follow the directions for gluing the short sticks into the front legs for the back legs.\\n\\n1-10. Cut small twigs the size of the base.\\nTo build a wicker chair, you'll need a seat. Glue the sticks and attach them to the seat base.\\n1-11. Let the chair set overnight.\\n\\nTips\\nIf you don't have trees in your yard, you can collect twigs from a friend's house. Be sure to ask permission before you start cutting branches from their trees.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Twig furnishings provide comfort and personality. If you like a rustic look, you may want to build a wicker chair. You don't need to spend a lot of money because twig furniture is made from renewable and sustainable resources, such as willow, bramble wood, laurel, cedar and other tree branches.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look in your yard for twigs.\", \"描述\": \"You want to use straight, bendable green twigs that are 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) to 1 inch (2.54 cm) in diameter from soft wooded trees when designing branch chairs.\\nSnip a variety of sizes and lengths with pruning clippers so you'll have plenty of twigs to work with.\\nPlace twigs in a bucket of water to keep them fresh.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the legs for your twig chair.\", \"描述\": \"Use twigs with a 1 inch (2.54 cm) diameter. To build a wicker chair, you need strong legs, and these branches will become the back and front legs of your twig chair.\\nCut 2 pieces 12 inches (30.48 cm) long with a bow saw. When designing wicker chairs, the back legs can extend to the back frame.\\nSaw 2 pieces 4 inches (10.16 cm) long with a bow saw. These will become the front legs of your twig chair.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Slice 10 twigs with a 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) diameter into 4 inch (10.16 cm) pieces with pruning clippers.\", \"描述\": \"To design a twig chair, you want a supportive frame, and these will provide that support.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Soak the cut twigs in the bucket of water for at least 20 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"To build a wicker chair, you want twigs that are soft and pliable.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Prepare the front legs of the chair.\", \"描述\": \"Bore 1 set of holes 1 inch (2.54 cm) down from the top of the branches about 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) deep with a drill.\\nDrill another set of holes 2 inches (5.08 cm) from the bottom of the twigs about 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) deep. To design a twig chair, you are aiming for balance, and these holes need to line up.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Whittle the ends of the thinner 4 inch (10.16 cm) long twigs with a utility knife so that they will fit into the holes you drilled.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Glue the short twigs into the legs.\", \"描述\": \"Squeeze wood glue in the holes you drilled.\\nFit the 4 inch (10.16 cm) whittled twigs into the holes. Imagine a ladder when building twig chairs, because that is what the back and front legs will look like.\\nClamp the pieces together with a large rubber band and let it dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Prepare the back legs.\", \"描述\": \"Drill 4 sets of holes approximately 1/2 an inch (1.27 cm) deep in the back legs.\\nBore the top set of holes anywhere you like, keeping in mind that when you build a wicker chair, the holes on the back legs must match.\\nDrill the other sets of holes so that they will line up with the front legs.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Follow the directions for gluing the short sticks into the front legs for the back legs.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Cut small twigs the size of the base.\", \"描述\": \"To build a wicker chair, you'll need a seat. Glue the sticks and attach them to the seat base.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Let the chair set overnight.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you don't have trees in your yard, you can collect twigs from a friend's house. Be sure to ask permission before you start cutting branches from their trees.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,605 |
How to Build a Utility Trailer
|
1. Before You Begin
1-1. Determine the type of trailer you'll need.
A utility trailer should be customized to your specifications. You will need to decide on the length, the weight capacity, and whether or not it will be enclosed. For example:
If the utility trailer will be used for lumber or building materials, it may need stronger suspension and larger wheels. For ease of loading and unloading—especially lumber—you would probably not want it enclosed. You would also want to make it long enough to hold lumber and sheeting.
For machinery and valuable tools, you would not only want it sturdy, but also enclosed and secure to prevent theft.
The vehicle that you will use to pull the utility trailer will also help determine the dimensions. For example, a utility trailer to haul groceries behind a bicycle will necessarily be much smaller than a utility trailer for a Suburban, built to haul a table saw.
1-2. Decide the method of construction.
You may choose to build a utility trailer from scratch or assemble a kit. Either way, the right tools and materials are essential. Search online websites for utility trailer kit plans or visit a home improvement store, or tractor supply dealer for ideas.
1-3. Confirm your level of ability.
In the planning stages, it's important to be aware of your construction and mechanical expertise and capabilities. Building a utility trailer from scratch will require welding skills, an aptitude for carpentry, and electrical knowledge to install taillights. It also helps if you're comfortable with heavy lifting.
2. Assembling the Utility Trailer
2-1. Gather the materials and tools.
Working according to a utility trailer plan will help you gather the right components. Once you have located a source for the materials, check with the customer service representative to arrange delivery. If you are a skilled welder and have the equipment you'll need, follow the manufacturer's recommended safety and procedural instructions.
Most designs consist of a bed, a hitch, a "tongue" (the wedge shape that extends from the front), an axle with wheels, taillights, and a license plate frame.
Many of the components for utility trailers (tongue, hitch, axle, jack, and taillight assembly) can be purchased fully assembled, allowing for easier construction.
2-2. Construct the trailer frame.
The frame will consist of 4 steel angle iron rods, 2 for the sides, and 2 for the front and back. Depending on the established length of the trailer, the sides might be longer than the front and back.
Weld the angle iron rods together for the bed frame. Assure the corners are squared.
Weld support beams made of flat iron across from side to side.
Bolt pressure-treated 2x6 inch (5.1 X 15.2 cm) boards to the frame, parallel with the sides inside the lip of the angle iron.
Cut lumber with a circular saw. Drill holes in the angle iron with a variable speed drill and drill-bit designed for metal.
Attach boards to frame bed.
2-3. Attach the axle and tires.
Use a hydraulic jack to raise up the frame. Block all 4 corners to keep it elevated. Weld the axle under the framing. On a rectangular frame, the axle should be attached with 60 percent of the frame in front and 40 percent in back to distribute the weight of the bed.
Using the lug bolts and nuts included with the axle kit, install the predetermined sized tires on the axle.
2-4. Finish out the other parts.
Weld the hitch to the tongue and attach the assembly to the front of the frame. Attach the jack behind the hitch on the tongue. Route electrical wires from the front to the rear for the taillights. Assure the taillight connector is in front.
The taillight assembly will consist of a combination of park, brake, and signal lights. The wiring harness should be secured under the trailer and the lights attached to rear with bolts on either side.
Tips
You may need special procedures to obtain a tag for your home built trailer. In Georgia for instance you take your home built trailer to a designated police station for inspection.[4]
X
Research source
If it passes you receive a metal tag you must rivet to the frame. The unique number on the tag and the paperwork from the police station allows you to receive a tag from the tag office and also get insurance on it.
Clean and then spray all metal parts with primer and paint before assembling tires or lights.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:13",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Before You Begin\\n1-1. Determine the type of trailer you'll need.\\nA utility trailer should be customized to your specifications. You will need to decide on the length, the weight capacity, and whether or not it will be enclosed. For example:\\nIf the utility trailer will be used for lumber or building materials, it may need stronger suspension and larger wheels. For ease of loading and unloading—especially lumber—you would probably not want it enclosed. You would also want to make it long enough to hold lumber and sheeting.\\nFor machinery and valuable tools, you would not only want it sturdy, but also enclosed and secure to prevent theft.\\nThe vehicle that you will use to pull the utility trailer will also help determine the dimensions. For example, a utility trailer to haul groceries behind a bicycle will necessarily be much smaller than a utility trailer for a Suburban, built to haul a table saw.\\n1-2. Decide the method of construction.\\nYou may choose to build a utility trailer from scratch or assemble a kit. Either way, the right tools and materials are essential. Search online websites for utility trailer kit plans or visit a home improvement store, or tractor supply dealer for ideas.\\n1-3. Confirm your level of ability.\\nIn the planning stages, it's important to be aware of your construction and mechanical expertise and capabilities. Building a utility trailer from scratch will require welding skills, an aptitude for carpentry, and electrical knowledge to install taillights. It also helps if you're comfortable with heavy lifting.\\n2. Assembling the Utility Trailer\\n2-1. Gather the materials and tools.\\nWorking according to a utility trailer plan will help you gather the right components. Once you have located a source for the materials, check with the customer service representative to arrange delivery. If you are a skilled welder and have the equipment you'll need, follow the manufacturer's recommended safety and procedural instructions.\\nMost designs consist of a bed, a hitch, a \\\"tongue\\\" (the wedge shape that extends from the front), an axle with wheels, taillights, and a license plate frame.\\nMany of the components for utility trailers (tongue, hitch, axle, jack, and taillight assembly) can be purchased fully assembled, allowing for easier construction.\\n2-2. Construct the trailer frame.\\nThe frame will consist of 4 steel angle iron rods, 2 for the sides, and 2 for the front and back. Depending on the established length of the trailer, the sides might be longer than the front and back.\\nWeld the angle iron rods together for the bed frame. Assure the corners are squared.\\nWeld support beams made of flat iron across from side to side.\\nBolt pressure-treated 2x6 inch (5.1 X 15.2 cm) boards to the frame, parallel with the sides inside the lip of the angle iron.\\nCut lumber with a circular saw. Drill holes in the angle iron with a variable speed drill and drill-bit designed for metal.\\nAttach boards to frame bed.\\n2-3. Attach the axle and tires.\\nUse a hydraulic jack to raise up the frame. Block all 4 corners to keep it elevated. Weld the axle under the framing. On a rectangular frame, the axle should be attached with 60 percent of the frame in front and 40 percent in back to distribute the weight of the bed.\\nUsing the lug bolts and nuts included with the axle kit, install the predetermined sized tires on the axle.\\n2-4. Finish out the other parts.\\nWeld the hitch to the tongue and attach the assembly to the front of the frame. Attach the jack behind the hitch on the tongue. Route electrical wires from the front to the rear for the taillights. Assure the taillight connector is in front.\\nThe taillight assembly will consist of a combination of park, brake, and signal lights. The wiring harness should be secured under the trailer and the lights attached to rear with bolts on either side.\\nTips\\nYou may need special procedures to obtain a tag for your home built trailer. In Georgia for instance you take your home built trailer to a designated police station for inspection.[4]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n If it passes you receive a metal tag you must rivet to the frame. The unique number on the tag and the paperwork from the police station allows you to receive a tag from the tag office and also get insurance on it.\\nClean and then spray all metal parts with primer and paint before assembling tires or lights.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Utility trailers are handy for a variety of applications, from hauling your tools to the job, or your gear to the gig. Whether you're planning on building a trailer for your business, or just need one occasionally for the family camping trips, this article will give you the information you need to build your own!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Before You Begin\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the type of trailer you'll need.\", \"描述\": \"A utility trailer should be customized to your specifications. You will need to decide on the length, the weight capacity, and whether or not it will be enclosed. For example:\\nIf the utility trailer will be used for lumber or building materials, it may need stronger suspension and larger wheels. For ease of loading and unloading—especially lumber—you would probably not want it enclosed. You would also want to make it long enough to hold lumber and sheeting.\\nFor machinery and valuable tools, you would not only want it sturdy, but also enclosed and secure to prevent theft.\\nThe vehicle that you will use to pull the utility trailer will also help determine the dimensions. For example, a utility trailer to haul groceries behind a bicycle will necessarily be much smaller than a utility trailer for a Suburban, built to haul a table saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide the method of construction.\", \"描述\": \"You may choose to build a utility trailer from scratch or assemble a kit. Either way, the right tools and materials are essential. Search online websites for utility trailer kit plans or visit a home improvement store, or tractor supply dealer for ideas.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Confirm your level of ability.\", \"描述\": \"In the planning stages, it's important to be aware of your construction and mechanical expertise and capabilities. Building a utility trailer from scratch will require welding skills, an aptitude for carpentry, and electrical knowledge to install taillights. It also helps if you're comfortable with heavy lifting.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Utility Trailer\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the materials and tools.\", \"描述\": \"Working according to a utility trailer plan will help you gather the right components. Once you have located a source for the materials, check with the customer service representative to arrange delivery. If you are a skilled welder and have the equipment you'll need, follow the manufacturer's recommended safety and procedural instructions.\\nMost designs consist of a bed, a hitch, a \\\"tongue\\\" (the wedge shape that extends from the front), an axle with wheels, taillights, and a license plate frame.\\nMany of the components for utility trailers (tongue, hitch, axle, jack, and taillight assembly) can be purchased fully assembled, allowing for easier construction.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Construct the trailer frame.\", \"描述\": \"The frame will consist of 4 steel angle iron rods, 2 for the sides, and 2 for the front and back. Depending on the established length of the trailer, the sides might be longer than the front and back.\\nWeld the angle iron rods together for the bed frame. Assure the corners are squared.\\nWeld support beams made of flat iron across from side to side.\\nBolt pressure-treated 2x6 inch (5.1 X 15.2 cm) boards to the frame, parallel with the sides inside the lip of the angle iron.\\nCut lumber with a circular saw. Drill holes in the angle iron with a variable speed drill and drill-bit designed for metal.\\nAttach boards to frame bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the axle and tires.\", \"描述\": \"Use a hydraulic jack to raise up the frame. Block all 4 corners to keep it elevated. Weld the axle under the framing. On a rectangular frame, the axle should be attached with 60 percent of the frame in front and 40 percent in back to distribute the weight of the bed.\\nUsing the lug bolts and nuts included with the axle kit, install the predetermined sized tires on the axle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finish out the other parts.\", \"描述\": \"Weld the hitch to the tongue and attach the assembly to the front of the frame. Attach the jack behind the hitch on the tongue. Route electrical wires from the front to the rear for the taillights. Assure the taillight connector is in front.\\nThe taillight assembly will consist of a combination of park, brake, and signal lights. The wiring harness should be secured under the trailer and the lights attached to rear with bolts on either side.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You may need special procedures to obtain a tag for your home built trailer. In Georgia for instance you take your home built trailer to a designated police station for inspection.[4]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n If it passes you receive a metal tag you must rivet to the frame. The unique number on the tag and the paperwork from the police station allows you to receive a tag from the tag office and also get insurance on it.\\n\", \"Clean and then spray all metal parts with primer and paint before assembling tires or lights.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,606 |
How to Build a UX Writing Portfolio with No Experience
|
1. Participate in a hackathon or UX writing challenge.
Compete to build UX material and connect with UX professionals.
Hackathon competitions last 1-3 days and bring UX designers, writers, and developers together to design something new. Enter to generate portfolio material quickly and to network and learn from more experienced UX workers.
Search online for hackathons in your area that fit your experience level. Participants range from beginners through advanced designers.
2. Seek out freelance gigs or internships.
Build and hone your skills while getting work experience.
Look for freelance work that tackles significant projects you can document in your portfolio. Make sure to clarify with your clients that you’re a beginner looking to build experience. If you’d prefer a slower paced learning environment, apply to internships in your area online or remotely.
Gradually, you’ll accumulate enough experience to successfully look for full-time work or build a freelance career.
3. Do spec work for existing brands or companies.
Practice rewriting microcopy for existing user experiences.
Look for login buttons, push notifications, or other text that look clunky or awkward and improve it. Ask fellow UX writers for feedback to hone your skills and get used to working with different mediums and tones.
Demonstrate how you'd improve real life microcopy in your portfolio. It isn't paid work, but employers will see what you’re capable of.
Describe your improvements respectfully (you never know if the person who wrote the original is looking at your work and process).
Spec work (short for “speculative work”) is creative work done for free by volunteer designers in the hopes that a company or client will hire them.
4. Volunteer to do UX writing work for free.
Ask to help friends, startups, or nonprofits build websites or blogs.
Reach out to organizations that don’t have a UX writer budget (or who don’t know what UX is) and explain how you can help them. This way, you can get experience on real projects and build connections with clients and companies that can vouch for your work.
Clarify that you’re planning to document your work for a portfolio and that you're a new professional looking for experience.
5. Take a UX writing course.
Find classes that let you work on real projects you can document.
Online or community college classes are great ways to improve your skills, add training to your resume, and get tangible experience. Be sure to get feedback from professors and classmates, plus other writers, designers, or developers you encounter.
Taking courses online or at a local college helps you improve your resume and prepare for your career in the field.
Your class might provide other online resources, like forums or Slack groups, where you can get feedback from other UX professionals.
When soliciting feedback in class or online, make sure to courteously offer your own critiques for other people’s work too.
6. Write microcopy for a fictional company.
Make up a product, service, or company and create a brief to redesign.
This will highlight your creativity and showcase your knack for problem-solving specific issues. For example, you could write notifications for an app that alerts you about rare bird sightings, or error messages for a fictional celebrity fan club website.
Since the product is fictitious, show off your graphic design experience by creating realistic items like loading pages or buttons.
7. Include non-UX writing samples too.
Show recruiters your natural writing skills in any form.
Prepare other samples like social media posts, blogs, magazine articles—anything you have. Categorize your non-UX writing into editorial work and copywriting work, and stick to just a few samples. Give a brief overview of the context for your work.
Good writing is good writing, and employers want to see how your mind works and your ability to think outside the box.
Many professional UX writers transition into their jobs from other writing fields.
8. Showcase 3 to 5 case studies.
Once you’ve gathered experience, highlight your absolute best work.
Choose cases that are both impressive and highlight your strongest skill sets. Compare this section to a resume—employers don’t need to see every single job or case you’ve ever done, just the ones that are relevant or stand out.
9. Know your portfolio audience.
Treat your portfolio like a UX project and design it for employers.
Browse through UX writing job descriptions and highlight the skills and requirements that pop up the most in your portfolio. What are their priorities for hiring, and who are they looking for? If you’re applying for one specific company, research their tone and voice and tailor your writing and cases to that.
Consider if the company wants writers for apps, websites, or other platforms. Include and highlight the most relevant samples you have to market yourself toward the perspective job opportunity.
10. Tell stories about how you solved UX problems with writing.
Narrate how you discovered and solved problems in each case study.
Use concise titles that identify the focus of projects (“Writing user login screens for a banking app”), then describe your role (“I wrote copy for 3 landing pages and 2 login screens”) and the quantitative outcome (“The app had 100,000 new logins 2 weeks after launch”).
Describe the goal and timeline of the project, plus the unique challenges or limitations you had to overcome to highlight your problem-solving skills.
Narrate your writing process step by step so employers can understand the rationale behind your choices and tone.
Optionally, include a few sentences about what you learned to showcase your commitment to professional growth and development.
11. Summarize your writing process.
Prove you’re an adaptable problem-solver by sharing your process.
Show employers you know what steps to take to come up with answers. These steps might include discovering issues, researching solutions, strategizing and implementing your ideas, writing microcopy, and testing your ideas.
In addition to a general process section, include your process and the outcomes for specific case studies too.
12. Include a personal statement.
Write a paragraph or two about yourself and what your special skills are.
Write a statement that highlights your soft skills, like working as part of a team or good interpersonal communication. Empathy is valuable as well—write about how you can understand users’ needs and work with your coworkers to accomplish goals.
Include some personal information that gives readers a sense of who you are and what you bring to a professional environment.
List your hard skills or unique work experience too, especially if it’s in a related field like marketing or engineering.
Remember, hard skills (like how to use a specific software) are easy to teach new employees. Soft skills are just as valuable to employers.
13. List your contact information.
Make it easy for clients or hiring managers to reach out to you.
Add as many ways to connect with you as you feel comfortable sharing—include your email address, phone number, and any professional social media accounts you have to start.
Supplement your contact information with online contact forms or creating an account on social networks for designers.
14. Include testimonials.
Ask previous employers or clients to write about your UX contributions.
Testimonials aren’t a must-have, but they’re great to include if you have any past professional experience. A few sentences about your accomplishments and how easy it was to work with you will catch the eyes of potential employers.
Send a polite email asking for a few sentences describing their experience with you. Try to ask right after you finish a project they’re happy with.
Think of testimonials like online reviews. They should be relatively short (2 to 3 paragraphs at the most) and highlight the most important information.
15. Present your portfolio as a website or PDF file.
Websites and PDFs are the most popular ways to share your work.
Design a website on a platform like Squarespace or Wix to get a personal domain name, hosting space, portfolio templates, and analytics information. Opt for a PDF to get a free, printable portfolio you can take to interviews.
The downside to website portfolios is the cost of a domain name, host, and content management system.
The cons of PDFs include the time it takes to design a portfolio from scratch and the files size limitations most online job applications have.
Tips
UX writing is a growing field, so there are not many hard rules about what to include in your portfolio or how to best format it. Do what makes sense for you and highlights your abilities and accomplishments best.
Look at professional UX writing portfolios online for design inspiration and to see more examples of what kinds of content and storytelling get people hired.
Design a portfolio that’s visually pleasing and easy to navigate. You’ll be sending it to people with design experience, so this is another way to showcase your user experience skills.
Warnings
Ask previous employers or clients if you can include work that was completed under an NDA (non-disclosure agreement) in your public portfolio.[18]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:13",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Participate in a hackathon or UX writing challenge.\\nCompete to build UX material and connect with UX professionals.\\nHackathon competitions last 1-3 days and bring UX designers, writers, and developers together to design something new. Enter to generate portfolio material quickly and to network and learn from more experienced UX workers.\\nSearch online for hackathons in your area that fit your experience level. Participants range from beginners through advanced designers.\\n2. Seek out freelance gigs or internships.\\nBuild and hone your skills while getting work experience.\\nLook for freelance work that tackles significant projects you can document in your portfolio. Make sure to clarify with your clients that you’re a beginner looking to build experience. If you’d prefer a slower paced learning environment, apply to internships in your area online or remotely.\\nGradually, you’ll accumulate enough experience to successfully look for full-time work or build a freelance career.\\n3. Do spec work for existing brands or companies.\\nPractice rewriting microcopy for existing user experiences.\\nLook for login buttons, push notifications, or other text that look clunky or awkward and improve it. Ask fellow UX writers for feedback to hone your skills and get used to working with different mediums and tones.\\nDemonstrate how you'd improve real life microcopy in your portfolio. It isn't paid work, but employers will see what you’re capable of.\\nDescribe your improvements respectfully (you never know if the person who wrote the original is looking at your work and process).\\nSpec work (short for “speculative work”) is creative work done for free by volunteer designers in the hopes that a company or client will hire them.\\n4. Volunteer to do UX writing work for free.\\nAsk to help friends, startups, or nonprofits build websites or blogs.\\nReach out to organizations that don’t have a UX writer budget (or who don’t know what UX is) and explain how you can help them. This way, you can get experience on real projects and build connections with clients and companies that can vouch for your work.\\nClarify that you’re planning to document your work for a portfolio and that you're a new professional looking for experience.\\n5. Take a UX writing course.\\nFind classes that let you work on real projects you can document.\\nOnline or community college classes are great ways to improve your skills, add training to your resume, and get tangible experience. Be sure to get feedback from professors and classmates, plus other writers, designers, or developers you encounter.\\nTaking courses online or at a local college helps you improve your resume and prepare for your career in the field.\\nYour class might provide other online resources, like forums or Slack groups, where you can get feedback from other UX professionals.\\nWhen soliciting feedback in class or online, make sure to courteously offer your own critiques for other people’s work too.\\n6. Write microcopy for a fictional company.\\nMake up a product, service, or company and create a brief to redesign.\\nThis will highlight your creativity and showcase your knack for problem-solving specific issues. For example, you could write notifications for an app that alerts you about rare bird sightings, or error messages for a fictional celebrity fan club website.\\nSince the product is fictitious, show off your graphic design experience by creating realistic items like loading pages or buttons.\\n7. Include non-UX writing samples too.\\nShow recruiters your natural writing skills in any form.\\nPrepare other samples like social media posts, blogs, magazine articles—anything you have. Categorize your non-UX writing into editorial work and copywriting work, and stick to just a few samples. Give a brief overview of the context for your work.\\nGood writing is good writing, and employers want to see how your mind works and your ability to think outside the box.\\nMany professional UX writers transition into their jobs from other writing fields.\\n8. Showcase 3 to 5 case studies.\\nOnce you’ve gathered experience, highlight your absolute best work.\\nChoose cases that are both impressive and highlight your strongest skill sets. Compare this section to a resume—employers don’t need to see every single job or case you’ve ever done, just the ones that are relevant or stand out.\\n9. Know your portfolio audience.\\nTreat your portfolio like a UX project and design it for employers.\\nBrowse through UX writing job descriptions and highlight the skills and requirements that pop up the most in your portfolio. What are their priorities for hiring, and who are they looking for? If you’re applying for one specific company, research their tone and voice and tailor your writing and cases to that.\\nConsider if the company wants writers for apps, websites, or other platforms. Include and highlight the most relevant samples you have to market yourself toward the perspective job opportunity.\\n10. Tell stories about how you solved UX problems with writing.\\nNarrate how you discovered and solved problems in each case study.\\nUse concise titles that identify the focus of projects (“Writing user login screens for a banking app”), then describe your role (“I wrote copy for 3 landing pages and 2 login screens”) and the quantitative outcome (“The app had 100,000 new logins 2 weeks after launch”).\\nDescribe the goal and timeline of the project, plus the unique challenges or limitations you had to overcome to highlight your problem-solving skills.\\nNarrate your writing process step by step so employers can understand the rationale behind your choices and tone.\\nOptionally, include a few sentences about what you learned to showcase your commitment to professional growth and development.\\n11. Summarize your writing process.\\nProve you’re an adaptable problem-solver by sharing your process.\\nShow employers you know what steps to take to come up with answers. These steps might include discovering issues, researching solutions, strategizing and implementing your ideas, writing microcopy, and testing your ideas.\\nIn addition to a general process section, include your process and the outcomes for specific case studies too.\\n12. Include a personal statement.\\nWrite a paragraph or two about yourself and what your special skills are.\\nWrite a statement that highlights your soft skills, like working as part of a team or good interpersonal communication. Empathy is valuable as well—write about how you can understand users’ needs and work with your coworkers to accomplish goals.\\nInclude some personal information that gives readers a sense of who you are and what you bring to a professional environment.\\nList your hard skills or unique work experience too, especially if it’s in a related field like marketing or engineering.\\nRemember, hard skills (like how to use a specific software) are easy to teach new employees. Soft skills are just as valuable to employers.\\n13. List your contact information.\\nMake it easy for clients or hiring managers to reach out to you.\\nAdd as many ways to connect with you as you feel comfortable sharing—include your email address, phone number, and any professional social media accounts you have to start.\\nSupplement your contact information with online contact forms or creating an account on social networks for designers.\\n14. Include testimonials.\\nAsk previous employers or clients to write about your UX contributions.\\nTestimonials aren’t a must-have, but they’re great to include if you have any past professional experience. A few sentences about your accomplishments and how easy it was to work with you will catch the eyes of potential employers.\\nSend a polite email asking for a few sentences describing their experience with you. Try to ask right after you finish a project they’re happy with.\\nThink of testimonials like online reviews. They should be relatively short (2 to 3 paragraphs at the most) and highlight the most important information.\\n15. Present your portfolio as a website or PDF file.\\nWebsites and PDFs are the most popular ways to share your work.\\nDesign a website on a platform like Squarespace or Wix to get a personal domain name, hosting space, portfolio templates, and analytics information. Opt for a PDF to get a free, printable portfolio you can take to interviews.\\nThe downside to website portfolios is the cost of a domain name, host, and content management system.\\nThe cons of PDFs include the time it takes to design a portfolio from scratch and the files size limitations most online job applications have.\\nTips\\nUX writing is a growing field, so there are not many hard rules about what to include in your portfolio or how to best format it. Do what makes sense for you and highlights your abilities and accomplishments best.\\nLook at professional UX writing portfolios online for design inspiration and to see more examples of what kinds of content and storytelling get people hired.\\nDesign a portfolio that’s visually pleasing and easy to navigate. You’ll be sending it to people with design experience, so this is another way to showcase your user experience skills.\\nWarnings\\nAsk previous employers or clients if you can include work that was completed under an NDA (non-disclosure agreement) in your public portfolio.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A UX portfolio is a valuable asset in getting noticed by recruiters and employers, but how do you build one when you have no work experience? It turns out there are a variety of creative ways to work on UX projects and gather shareable material for your portfolio without having official, professional experience. We’ve put together a list of the best ways to build UX writing experience you’ll be proud to present, plus more tips on how to talk about your case studies and what other information to include in your portfolio. If you’re ready to put the X in UX, keep scrolling!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Participate in a hackathon or UX writing challenge.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Compete to build UX material and connect with UX professionals.\", \"描述\": \"Hackathon competitions last 1-3 days and bring UX designers, writers, and developers together to design something new. Enter to generate portfolio material quickly and to network and learn from more experienced UX workers.\\nSearch online for hackathons in your area that fit your experience level. Participants range from beginners through advanced designers.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Seek out freelance gigs or internships.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build and hone your skills while getting work experience.\", \"描述\": \"Look for freelance work that tackles significant projects you can document in your portfolio. Make sure to clarify with your clients that you’re a beginner looking to build experience. If you’d prefer a slower paced learning environment, apply to internships in your area online or remotely.\\nGradually, you’ll accumulate enough experience to successfully look for full-time work or build a freelance career.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Do spec work for existing brands or companies.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Practice rewriting microcopy for existing user experiences.\", \"描述\": \"Look for login buttons, push notifications, or other text that look clunky or awkward and improve it. Ask fellow UX writers for feedback to hone your skills and get used to working with different mediums and tones.\\nDemonstrate how you'd improve real life microcopy in your portfolio. It isn't paid work, but employers will see what you’re capable of.\\nDescribe your improvements respectfully (you never know if the person who wrote the original is looking at your work and process).\\nSpec work (short for “speculative work”) is creative work done for free by volunteer designers in the hopes that a company or client will hire them.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Volunteer to do UX writing work for free.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ask to help friends, startups, or nonprofits build websites or blogs.\", \"描述\": \"Reach out to organizations that don’t have a UX writer budget (or who don’t know what UX is) and explain how you can help them. This way, you can get experience on real projects and build connections with clients and companies that can vouch for your work.\\nClarify that you’re planning to document your work for a portfolio and that you're a new professional looking for experience.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Take a UX writing course.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find classes that let you work on real projects you can document.\", \"描述\": \"Online or community college classes are great ways to improve your skills, add training to your resume, and get tangible experience. Be sure to get feedback from professors and classmates, plus other writers, designers, or developers you encounter.\\nTaking courses online or at a local college helps you improve your resume and prepare for your career in the field.\\nYour class might provide other online resources, like forums or Slack groups, where you can get feedback from other UX professionals.\\nWhen soliciting feedback in class or online, make sure to courteously offer your own critiques for other people’s work too.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Write microcopy for a fictional company.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make up a product, service, or company and create a brief to redesign.\", \"描述\": \"This will highlight your creativity and showcase your knack for problem-solving specific issues. For example, you could write notifications for an app that alerts you about rare bird sightings, or error messages for a fictional celebrity fan club website.\\nSince the product is fictitious, show off your graphic design experience by creating realistic items like loading pages or buttons.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Include non-UX writing samples too.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Show recruiters your natural writing skills in any form.\", \"描述\": \"Prepare other samples like social media posts, blogs, magazine articles—anything you have. Categorize your non-UX writing into editorial work and copywriting work, and stick to just a few samples. Give a brief overview of the context for your work.\\nGood writing is good writing, and employers want to see how your mind works and your ability to think outside the box.\\nMany professional UX writers transition into their jobs from other writing fields.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Showcase 3 to 5 case studies.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Once you’ve gathered experience, highlight your absolute best work.\", \"描述\": \"Choose cases that are both impressive and highlight your strongest skill sets. Compare this section to a resume—employers don’t need to see every single job or case you’ve ever done, just the ones that are relevant or stand out.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Know your portfolio audience.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Treat your portfolio like a UX project and design it for employers.\", \"描述\": \"Browse through UX writing job descriptions and highlight the skills and requirements that pop up the most in your portfolio. What are their priorities for hiring, and who are they looking for? If you’re applying for one specific company, research their tone and voice and tailor your writing and cases to that.\\nConsider if the company wants writers for apps, websites, or other platforms. Include and highlight the most relevant samples you have to market yourself toward the perspective job opportunity.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Tell stories about how you solved UX problems with writing.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Narrate how you discovered and solved problems in each case study.\", \"描述\": \"Use concise titles that identify the focus of projects (“Writing user login screens for a banking app”), then describe your role (“I wrote copy for 3 landing pages and 2 login screens”) and the quantitative outcome (“The app had 100,000 new logins 2 weeks after launch”).\\nDescribe the goal and timeline of the project, plus the unique challenges or limitations you had to overcome to highlight your problem-solving skills.\\nNarrate your writing process step by step so employers can understand the rationale behind your choices and tone.\\nOptionally, include a few sentences about what you learned to showcase your commitment to professional growth and development.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Summarize your writing process.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prove you’re an adaptable problem-solver by sharing your process.\", \"描述\": \"Show employers you know what steps to take to come up with answers. These steps might include discovering issues, researching solutions, strategizing and implementing your ideas, writing microcopy, and testing your ideas.\\nIn addition to a general process section, include your process and the outcomes for specific case studies too.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Include a personal statement.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Write a paragraph or two about yourself and what your special skills are.\", \"描述\": \"Write a statement that highlights your soft skills, like working as part of a team or good interpersonal communication. Empathy is valuable as well—write about how you can understand users’ needs and work with your coworkers to accomplish goals.\\nInclude some personal information that gives readers a sense of who you are and what you bring to a professional environment.\\nList your hard skills or unique work experience too, especially if it’s in a related field like marketing or engineering.\\nRemember, hard skills (like how to use a specific software) are easy to teach new employees. Soft skills are just as valuable to employers.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"List your contact information.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make it easy for clients or hiring managers to reach out to you.\", \"描述\": \"Add as many ways to connect with you as you feel comfortable sharing—include your email address, phone number, and any professional social media accounts you have to start.\\nSupplement your contact information with online contact forms or creating an account on social networks for designers.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Include testimonials.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ask previous employers or clients to write about your UX contributions.\", \"描述\": \"Testimonials aren’t a must-have, but they’re great to include if you have any past professional experience. A few sentences about your accomplishments and how easy it was to work with you will catch the eyes of potential employers.\\nSend a polite email asking for a few sentences describing their experience with you. Try to ask right after you finish a project they’re happy with.\\nThink of testimonials like online reviews. They should be relatively short (2 to 3 paragraphs at the most) and highlight the most important information.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Present your portfolio as a website or PDF file.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Websites and PDFs are the most popular ways to share your work.\", \"描述\": \"Design a website on a platform like Squarespace or Wix to get a personal domain name, hosting space, portfolio templates, and analytics information. Opt for a PDF to get a free, printable portfolio you can take to interviews.\\nThe downside to website portfolios is the cost of a domain name, host, and content management system.\\nThe cons of PDFs include the time it takes to design a portfolio from scratch and the files size limitations most online job applications have.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"UX writing is a growing field, so there are not many hard rules about what to include in your portfolio or how to best format it. Do what makes sense for you and highlights your abilities and accomplishments best.\\n\", \"Look at professional UX writing portfolios online for design inspiration and to see more examples of what kinds of content and storytelling get people hired.\\n\", \"Design a portfolio that’s visually pleasing and easy to navigate. You’ll be sending it to people with design experience, so this is another way to showcase your user experience skills.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Ask previous employers or clients if you can include work that was completed under an NDA (non-disclosure agreement) in your public portfolio.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,607 |
How to Build a Vacuum Former
|
1. Making the Vacuum Former Box
1-1. Measure and draw your guidelines.
On 3/4 inch plywood, draw three squares, 5 inches on a side.
Draw another, smaller 4 inch square centered inside each square.
1-2. Cut along the inner squares on all three frame pieces.
1-3. Cut along the outer guidelines to finish each frame piece.
1-4. Build the main box by stacking and gluing the three frame pieces together.
1-5. Clamp all four sides of the box and allow the glue to dry.
1-6. Drill a hole on one side using the hole saw so the vacuum hose (or adapter) will fit snugly.
2. Making the Platen
2-1. Measure and draw outside frame.
On the 5mm MDF, draw a 5 inch square.
2-2. Measure and draw a grid.
Start in from a corner at 0.5 inches from each side, draw straight vertical lines every 2/3 inches for a total of 7 lines.
Repeat the pattern for horizontal lines creating an intersecting grid pattern.
2-3. Drill 3/32 inch holes at each intersection.
2-4. Cut the final platen out of the MDF along the outside frame lines drawn earlier.
2-5. Glue the platen to the top of the former box created in the previous step, clamping all four sides until the glue dries.
3. Making the Bottom / Mount
3-1. Measure and draw cutting guidelines.
On the 5mm MDF, draw a 5 inch by 9 inch rectangle.
3-2. Cut frame from MDF.
3-3. Glue this final piece to the bottom of the vacuum former box, clamping the two flush sides until the it is fully dried.
4. Making the Sheet Holder Frame
4-1. Measure and draw guidelines.
On the 5mm MDF, draw two 7.5 inch squares
Centered inside each square draw another, 5.5 inch square.
4-2. Cut out the inner square of each frame piece.
4-3. Cut along the outer guideline to finish the frame pieces.
5. Using Your New Vacuum Former
5-1. Mount the box.
Set the box on a sturdy table.
Using the clams / quick clamps, firmly clamp the box to the table.
5-2. Attach the vacuum.
Firmly push the vacuum hose or adapter into the hole on the side of the former.
5-3. Gather your materials.
Cut your desired thermoplastic into 6 inch square sheets.
Choose or 3d print shapes to be formed.
5-4. Place the objects to be molded on the platen (top).
Take care to space the part around the holes to maintain clean edges.
5-5. Clamp the thermoplastic sheet between the frame pieces with the binder clips.
5-6. Hold frame with grips to keep heat away from your hands.
5-7. Heat plastic using slow, even motion with the heat gun.
Keep going until until the plastic sags about 1.5 to 2 inches
5-8. Turn on the vacuum.
5-9. Lower the heated thermoplastic onto former over objects.
5-10. Continue to heat the thermoplastic around edges and fine details to ensure a clean mold.
Warnings
Always adhere proper safety precautions (masks, safety glasses, etc).
Use former in a well-ventilated area as some thermoplastics emit toxic fumes when heated.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:14",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making the Vacuum Former Box\\n1-1. Measure and draw your guidelines.\\nOn 3/4 inch plywood, draw three squares, 5 inches on a side.\\nDraw another, smaller 4 inch square centered inside each square.\\n1-2. Cut along the inner squares on all three frame pieces.\\n\\n1-3. Cut along the outer guidelines to finish each frame piece.\\n\\n1-4. Build the main box by stacking and gluing the three frame pieces together.\\n\\n1-5. Clamp all four sides of the box and allow the glue to dry.\\n\\n1-6. Drill a hole on one side using the hole saw so the vacuum hose (or adapter) will fit snugly.\\n\\n2. Making the Platen\\n2-1. Measure and draw outside frame.\\nOn the 5mm MDF, draw a 5 inch square.\\n2-2. Measure and draw a grid.\\nStart in from a corner at 0.5 inches from each side, draw straight vertical lines every 2/3 inches for a total of 7 lines.\\nRepeat the pattern for horizontal lines creating an intersecting grid pattern.\\n2-3. Drill 3/32 inch holes at each intersection.\\n\\n2-4. Cut the final platen out of the MDF along the outside frame lines drawn earlier.\\n\\n2-5. Glue the platen to the top of the former box created in the previous step, clamping all four sides until the glue dries.\\n\\n3. Making the Bottom / Mount\\n3-1. Measure and draw cutting guidelines.\\nOn the 5mm MDF, draw a 5 inch by 9 inch rectangle.\\n3-2. Cut frame from MDF.\\n\\n3-3. Glue this final piece to the bottom of the vacuum former box, clamping the two flush sides until the it is fully dried.\\n\\n4. Making the Sheet Holder Frame\\n4-1. Measure and draw guidelines.\\nOn the 5mm MDF, draw two 7.5 inch squares\\nCentered inside each square draw another, 5.5 inch square.\\n4-2. Cut out the inner square of each frame piece.\\n\\n4-3. Cut along the outer guideline to finish the frame pieces.\\n\\n5. Using Your New Vacuum Former\\n5-1. Mount the box.\\nSet the box on a sturdy table.\\nUsing the clams / quick clamps, firmly clamp the box to the table.\\n5-2. Attach the vacuum.\\nFirmly push the vacuum hose or adapter into the hole on the side of the former.\\n5-3. Gather your materials.\\nCut your desired thermoplastic into 6 inch square sheets.\\nChoose or 3d print shapes to be formed.\\n5-4. Place the objects to be molded on the platen (top).\\nTake care to space the part around the holes to maintain clean edges.\\n5-5. Clamp the thermoplastic sheet between the frame pieces with the binder clips.\\n\\n5-6. Hold frame with grips to keep heat away from your hands.\\n\\n5-7. Heat plastic using slow, even motion with the heat gun.\\nKeep going until until the plastic sags about 1.5 to 2 inches\\n5-8. Turn on the vacuum.\\n\\n5-9. Lower the heated thermoplastic onto former over objects.\\n\\n5-10. Continue to heat the thermoplastic around edges and fine details to ensure a clean mold.\\n\\nWarnings\\nAlways adhere proper safety precautions (masks, safety glasses, etc).\\nUse former in a well-ventilated area as some thermoplastics emit toxic fumes when heated.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you have a need to create molds, masks, or other shapes out of plastic? Make your own 5-inch square vacuum former in just a few hours! The instructions below are based on materials that you might have around the house already or can be modified to use what you do have.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making the Vacuum Former Box\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and draw your guidelines.\", \"描述\": \"On 3/4 inch plywood, draw three squares, 5 inches on a side.\\nDraw another, smaller 4 inch square centered inside each square.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut along the inner squares on all three frame pieces.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut along the outer guidelines to finish each frame piece.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build the main box by stacking and gluing the three frame pieces together.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Clamp all four sides of the box and allow the glue to dry.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole on one side using the hole saw so the vacuum hose (or adapter) will fit snugly.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making the Platen\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and draw outside frame.\", \"描述\": \"On the 5mm MDF, draw a 5 inch square.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and draw a grid.\", \"描述\": \"Start in from a corner at 0.5 inches from each side, draw straight vertical lines every 2/3 inches for a total of 7 lines.\\nRepeat the pattern for horizontal lines creating an intersecting grid pattern.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill 3/32 inch holes at each intersection.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the final platen out of the MDF along the outside frame lines drawn earlier.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Glue the platen to the top of the former box created in the previous step, clamping all four sides until the glue dries.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making the Bottom / Mount\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and draw cutting guidelines.\", \"描述\": \"On the 5mm MDF, draw a 5 inch by 9 inch rectangle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut frame from MDF.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue this final piece to the bottom of the vacuum former box, clamping the two flush sides until the it is fully dried.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Making the Sheet Holder Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure and draw guidelines.\", \"描述\": \"On the 5mm MDF, draw two 7.5 inch squares\\nCentered inside each square draw another, 5.5 inch square.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut out the inner square of each frame piece.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut along the outer guideline to finish the frame pieces.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Using Your New Vacuum Former\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mount the box.\", \"描述\": \"Set the box on a sturdy table.\\nUsing the clams / quick clamps, firmly clamp the box to the table.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the vacuum.\", \"描述\": \"Firmly push the vacuum hose or adapter into the hole on the side of the former.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"Cut your desired thermoplastic into 6 inch square sheets.\\nChoose or 3d print shapes to be formed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the objects to be molded on the platen (top).\", \"描述\": \"Take care to space the part around the holes to maintain clean edges.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Clamp the thermoplastic sheet between the frame pieces with the binder clips.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Hold frame with grips to keep heat away from your hands.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Heat plastic using slow, even motion with the heat gun.\", \"描述\": \"Keep going until until the plastic sags about 1.5 to 2 inches\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Turn on the vacuum.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Lower the heated thermoplastic onto former over objects.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Continue to heat the thermoplastic around edges and fine details to ensure a clean mold.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Always adhere proper safety precautions (masks, safety glasses, etc).\\n\", \"Use former in a well-ventilated area as some thermoplastics emit toxic fumes when heated.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,608 |
How to Build a Vertical Garden
|
1. Choosing a Vertical Garden Structure
1-1. Buy a garden structure from a garden store.
Since vertical gardens are growing in popularity, home and garden stores increasingly carry a variety of structures suitable for building a vertical garden. Choose from among these options:
Buy simple poles you can set into the ground. Metal poles are better if you have dense or clay soil because they can be driven through hard ground. If your ground is loose, wooden poles will be fine. Stick the poles every few feet along a row of plants. As the plants grow, run a line of garden twine down one side, loop around the far pole, and tie off at the end where you started. Tie the twine to each pole along the way to support plants.
Buy a trellis. Trellises are often made of wood. They are built in the shape of a box with a cross-hatched top and sides, allowing vines and plants to weave themselves through the gaps in the wood.
1-2. Use vertical features you already have.
There's no need to go out of your way to buy a structure if you don't want to spend the money. You probably already have items you can use to grow a vertical garden. Consider the following:
A tree. That's right, you can train a plant to grow around a tree. The best type of tree for this is one with branches that begin more than 6 feet (1.8 m) up the tree.
Bamboo poles. Is there a stand of bamboo located near your home? Bamboo provides a sturdy base for a vertical garden, and it's often easy to get it for free. If you don't have bamboo, another strong, tall stick of some kind will do.
Your deck. If you have a deck that extends several feet or yards above the ground, you can train plants to grow up the sides.
A fence. Most any fence provides suitable structure for a vertical garden - the taller, the better!
1-3. Build your own vertical trellis.
For a completely customized vertical garden structure, build your own out of wood. Building your own structure allows you to create a garden with the right dimensions for your yard. Here's a step-by-step guide for building a 6-foot high garden structure:
Build a 2 foot (0.6 m) square by 11 inch (27.9 cm) high box from redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated 2 x 6s. Screw 8-foot pressure-treated 2 x 2s at the center and one corner in back, and 6-foot 2 x 2s at the other corner and 18 inches (45.7 cm) from the back on both sides.
Pre-drill, glue and screw 1 x 2s every 6 inches (15.2 cm), starting at the top of the box. Extend the 1 x 2s at least an inch beyond each 2 x 2 to minimize the danger of splitting.
Add platforms by screwing on 3-foot 1 x 2s, then screwing on 1 x 2s laid flat to create a miniature deck.
Add one more 6-foot long 2 x 2 in the center at the front, and screw it to the crosspieces.
Add a 1 x 4 crosspiece at the top of the two longest 2 x 2s. If you want, you can attach a bird house to the crosspiece.
Fill the box with good soil, then plant climbing plants and train them up the lattice. Add other plants in pots and hanging baskets.
2. Choosing the Right Plants
2-1. Grow vegetables vertically.
Many types of vegetables and legumes grow on vines, making them great candidates for a vertical garden. Peas and beans naturally twist and curl over stakes and trellises, and many of them also produce pretty flowers in the spring. Here are a few ideas:
Grow scarlet runner beans, which attract hummingbirds and have red and white blossoms.
Go with tomatoes, which must grow vertically in order to stay healthy and produce a lot of fruit. Your summer will be filled with juicy red goodness.
Some varieties of squash grow vertically, too. Try trombetta squash, which produces pretty flowers.
Cucumbers also grow well on trellises.
Hops, which are the essential ingredient in beer, grow at least 6 feet (1.8 m) into the sky.
2-2. Create a vertical flower and vine garden.
If you're keen on building a whimsical vertical garden - the kind you can stroll underneath with your sweetheart while you enjoy the fragrance of its flowers - look for flower and ivy varieties that prefer to grow toward the sky. Be sure to choose plants that do well in your particular region.
Morning glories grow fast and strong, and they produce gorgeous flowers in many different hues.
Wisteria, which blooms purple and produces a lovely scent, is a popular choice for vertical gardens.
English ivy provides a pleasing green backdrop for more colorful flowers.
Climbing roses will give your vertical garden a romantic touch.
2-3. Plant the three sisters.
For a completely natural vertical garden, you can't go wrong with the three sisters: beans, squash and corn. Native Americans planted these three vegetables together because they coexist so well with one another. They also make for a gorgeous natural vertical garden; the corn provides a "pole" for the beans while the squash will grow along the ground.
3. Starting the Garden
3-1. Pick a good spot.
A vertical garden, like any other type of garden, needs to be planted in an area with good soil drainage and the right combination of shade and sunlight. Figure out what conditions the plants you're growing need to thrive, then choose a suitable area in your yard or on your patio.
Most vertical gardens do well with a lot of sunlight.
Pick a spot close to a wall if you want your garden to eventually climb the walls of your house.
3-2. Make sure the garden structure is stable.
If you're using a trellis, a stake or a pole, be sure to bury it deep in the ground so that it doesn't wobble or fall over. Remember that the garden will get heavier as it grows, and it will need a solid foundation that can stand up to wind and rain.
Use a post driver to push your metal or wooden posts deep into the ground.
3-3. Plant around the base of the structure.
Taking into account the individual needs of the plants you are using, plant seeds or seedlings in holes spaced around the base of the trellis, pole or other structure you are using. Make sure they aren't too close to each other or the structure so that they'll have room to root and grow.
3-4. Care for the plants
Make sure they get adequate water and that you fertilize them, protect them with mulch, and take other measures they need to grow healthy and strong.
3-5. Train the plants.
When the seedlings get a few inches high, it's time to train them to wrap around the structure you erected. Gently wrap the stems of the plants around the base of the structure, taking care not to bend or break them. Use ties to hold the stems in place as they grow.
Don't tie the stems too tightly. This prevents them from growing properly and may actually damage the plant.
As the stems begin to grow and wind around the structure, continue using ties to train them to grow in the direction you want them to grow.
For vines like hops, tie a string to the trellis a few feet above the ground, and stake it to the ground near the plant. Train the plant up the string until it reaches the trellis. If you are using metal or other slick types of materials, run the string all the way to the top so the vines have something to grab onto.
Tips
Change dimensions of the homemade trellis as needed to fit your space or make multiple smaller beds with space in between for easy access.
Try training peas, beans, cucumbers, melons, or sweet potato vines up this structure. You can intersperse decorative plants, such as marigolds, or lower plants, such as strawberries, to make this an interesting and tasty planting. Don't use treated lumber if you're growing food.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:14",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing a Vertical Garden Structure\\n1-1. Buy a garden structure from a garden store.\\nSince vertical gardens are growing in popularity, home and garden stores increasingly carry a variety of structures suitable for building a vertical garden. Choose from among these options:\\nBuy simple poles you can set into the ground. Metal poles are better if you have dense or clay soil because they can be driven through hard ground. If your ground is loose, wooden poles will be fine. Stick the poles every few feet along a row of plants. As the plants grow, run a line of garden twine down one side, loop around the far pole, and tie off at the end where you started. Tie the twine to each pole along the way to support plants.\\nBuy a trellis. Trellises are often made of wood. They are built in the shape of a box with a cross-hatched top and sides, allowing vines and plants to weave themselves through the gaps in the wood.\\n1-2. Use vertical features you already have.\\nThere's no need to go out of your way to buy a structure if you don't want to spend the money. You probably already have items you can use to grow a vertical garden. Consider the following:\\nA tree. That's right, you can train a plant to grow around a tree. The best type of tree for this is one with branches that begin more than 6 feet (1.8 m) up the tree.\\nBamboo poles. Is there a stand of bamboo located near your home? Bamboo provides a sturdy base for a vertical garden, and it's often easy to get it for free. If you don't have bamboo, another strong, tall stick of some kind will do.\\nYour deck. If you have a deck that extends several feet or yards above the ground, you can train plants to grow up the sides.\\nA fence. Most any fence provides suitable structure for a vertical garden - the taller, the better!\\n1-3. Build your own vertical trellis.\\nFor a completely customized vertical garden structure, build your own out of wood. Building your own structure allows you to create a garden with the right dimensions for your yard. Here's a step-by-step guide for building a 6-foot high garden structure:\\nBuild a 2 foot (0.6 m) square by 11 inch (27.9 cm) high box from redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated 2 x 6s. Screw 8-foot pressure-treated 2 x 2s at the center and one corner in back, and 6-foot 2 x 2s at the other corner and 18 inches (45.7 cm) from the back on both sides.\\nPre-drill, glue and screw 1 x 2s every 6 inches (15.2 cm), starting at the top of the box. Extend the 1 x 2s at least an inch beyond each 2 x 2 to minimize the danger of splitting.\\nAdd platforms by screwing on 3-foot 1 x 2s, then screwing on 1 x 2s laid flat to create a miniature deck.\\nAdd one more 6-foot long 2 x 2 in the center at the front, and screw it to the crosspieces.\\nAdd a 1 x 4 crosspiece at the top of the two longest 2 x 2s. If you want, you can attach a bird house to the crosspiece.\\nFill the box with good soil, then plant climbing plants and train them up the lattice. Add other plants in pots and hanging baskets.\\n2. Choosing the Right Plants\\n2-1. Grow vegetables vertically.\\nMany types of vegetables and legumes grow on vines, making them great candidates for a vertical garden. Peas and beans naturally twist and curl over stakes and trellises, and many of them also produce pretty flowers in the spring. Here are a few ideas:\\n\\nGrow scarlet runner beans, which attract hummingbirds and have red and white blossoms.\\nGo with tomatoes, which must grow vertically in order to stay healthy and produce a lot of fruit. Your summer will be filled with juicy red goodness.\\nSome varieties of squash grow vertically, too. Try trombetta squash, which produces pretty flowers.\\nCucumbers also grow well on trellises.\\n Hops, which are the essential ingredient in beer, grow at least 6 feet (1.8 m) into the sky.\\n2-2. Create a vertical flower and vine garden.\\nIf you're keen on building a whimsical vertical garden - the kind you can stroll underneath with your sweetheart while you enjoy the fragrance of its flowers - look for flower and ivy varieties that prefer to grow toward the sky. Be sure to choose plants that do well in your particular region.\\nMorning glories grow fast and strong, and they produce gorgeous flowers in many different hues.\\nWisteria, which blooms purple and produces a lovely scent, is a popular choice for vertical gardens.\\nEnglish ivy provides a pleasing green backdrop for more colorful flowers.\\n Climbing roses will give your vertical garden a romantic touch.\\n2-3. Plant the three sisters.\\nFor a completely natural vertical garden, you can't go wrong with the three sisters: beans, squash and corn. Native Americans planted these three vegetables together because they coexist so well with one another. They also make for a gorgeous natural vertical garden; the corn provides a \\\"pole\\\" for the beans while the squash will grow along the ground.\\n3. Starting the Garden\\n3-1. Pick a good spot.\\nA vertical garden, like any other type of garden, needs to be planted in an area with good soil drainage and the right combination of shade and sunlight. Figure out what conditions the plants you're growing need to thrive, then choose a suitable area in your yard or on your patio.\\nMost vertical gardens do well with a lot of sunlight.\\nPick a spot close to a wall if you want your garden to eventually climb the walls of your house.\\n3-2. Make sure the garden structure is stable.\\nIf you're using a trellis, a stake or a pole, be sure to bury it deep in the ground so that it doesn't wobble or fall over. Remember that the garden will get heavier as it grows, and it will need a solid foundation that can stand up to wind and rain.\\nUse a post driver to push your metal or wooden posts deep into the ground.\\n3-3. Plant around the base of the structure.\\nTaking into account the individual needs of the plants you are using, plant seeds or seedlings in holes spaced around the base of the trellis, pole or other structure you are using. Make sure they aren't too close to each other or the structure so that they'll have room to root and grow.\\n3-4. Care for the plants\\nMake sure they get adequate water and that you fertilize them, protect them with mulch, and take other measures they need to grow healthy and strong.\\n3-5. Train the plants.\\nWhen the seedlings get a few inches high, it's time to train them to wrap around the structure you erected. Gently wrap the stems of the plants around the base of the structure, taking care not to bend or break them. Use ties to hold the stems in place as they grow.\\nDon't tie the stems too tightly. This prevents them from growing properly and may actually damage the plant.\\nAs the stems begin to grow and wind around the structure, continue using ties to train them to grow in the direction you want them to grow.\\nFor vines like hops, tie a string to the trellis a few feet above the ground, and stake it to the ground near the plant. Train the plant up the string until it reaches the trellis. If you are using metal or other slick types of materials, run the string all the way to the top so the vines have something to grab onto.\\nTips\\nChange dimensions of the homemade trellis as needed to fit your space or make multiple smaller beds with space in between for easy access.\\nTry training peas, beans, cucumbers, melons, or sweet potato vines up this structure. You can intersperse decorative plants, such as marigolds, or lower plants, such as strawberries, to make this an interesting and tasty planting. Don't use treated lumber if you're growing food.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If your horizontal garden space is limited, or you're interested in adding a new level of texture and beauty to your yard, consider building a vertical garden. Many plants naturally grow, vine-like, up trees and walls, and these can easily be trained to grow upward on the structure of your choice. Read on to find out how to start your vertical garden.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing a Vertical Garden Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy a garden structure from a garden store.\", \"描述\": \"Since vertical gardens are growing in popularity, home and garden stores increasingly carry a variety of structures suitable for building a vertical garden. Choose from among these options:\\nBuy simple poles you can set into the ground. Metal poles are better if you have dense or clay soil because they can be driven through hard ground. If your ground is loose, wooden poles will be fine. Stick the poles every few feet along a row of plants. As the plants grow, run a line of garden twine down one side, loop around the far pole, and tie off at the end where you started. Tie the twine to each pole along the way to support plants.\\nBuy a trellis. Trellises are often made of wood. They are built in the shape of a box with a cross-hatched top and sides, allowing vines and plants to weave themselves through the gaps in the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use vertical features you already have.\", \"描述\": \"There's no need to go out of your way to buy a structure if you don't want to spend the money. You probably already have items you can use to grow a vertical garden. Consider the following:\\nA tree. That's right, you can train a plant to grow around a tree. The best type of tree for this is one with branches that begin more than 6 feet (1.8 m) up the tree.\\nBamboo poles. Is there a stand of bamboo located near your home? Bamboo provides a sturdy base for a vertical garden, and it's often easy to get it for free. If you don't have bamboo, another strong, tall stick of some kind will do.\\nYour deck. If you have a deck that extends several feet or yards above the ground, you can train plants to grow up the sides.\\nA fence. Most any fence provides suitable structure for a vertical garden - the taller, the better!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build your own vertical trellis.\", \"描述\": \"For a completely customized vertical garden structure, build your own out of wood. Building your own structure allows you to create a garden with the right dimensions for your yard. Here's a step-by-step guide for building a 6-foot high garden structure:\\nBuild a 2 foot (0.6 m) square by 11 inch (27.9 cm) high box from redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated 2 x 6s. Screw 8-foot pressure-treated 2 x 2s at the center and one corner in back, and 6-foot 2 x 2s at the other corner and 18 inches (45.7 cm) from the back on both sides.\\nPre-drill, glue and screw 1 x 2s every 6 inches (15.2 cm), starting at the top of the box. Extend the 1 x 2s at least an inch beyond each 2 x 2 to minimize the danger of splitting.\\nAdd platforms by screwing on 3-foot 1 x 2s, then screwing on 1 x 2s laid flat to create a miniature deck.\\nAdd one more 6-foot long 2 x 2 in the center at the front, and screw it to the crosspieces.\\nAdd a 1 x 4 crosspiece at the top of the two longest 2 x 2s. If you want, you can attach a bird house to the crosspiece.\\nFill the box with good soil, then plant climbing plants and train them up the lattice. Add other plants in pots and hanging baskets.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choosing the Right Plants\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Grow vegetables vertically.\", \"描述\": \"Many types of vegetables and legumes grow on vines, making them great candidates for a vertical garden. Peas and beans naturally twist and curl over stakes and trellises, and many of them also produce pretty flowers in the spring. Here are a few ideas:\\n\\nGrow scarlet runner beans, which attract hummingbirds and have red and white blossoms.\\nGo with tomatoes, which must grow vertically in order to stay healthy and produce a lot of fruit. Your summer will be filled with juicy red goodness.\\nSome varieties of squash grow vertically, too. Try trombetta squash, which produces pretty flowers.\\nCucumbers also grow well on trellises.\\n Hops, which are the essential ingredient in beer, grow at least 6 feet (1.8 m) into the sky.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a vertical flower and vine garden.\", \"描述\": \"If you're keen on building a whimsical vertical garden - the kind you can stroll underneath with your sweetheart while you enjoy the fragrance of its flowers - look for flower and ivy varieties that prefer to grow toward the sky. Be sure to choose plants that do well in your particular region.\\nMorning glories grow fast and strong, and they produce gorgeous flowers in many different hues.\\nWisteria, which blooms purple and produces a lovely scent, is a popular choice for vertical gardens.\\nEnglish ivy provides a pleasing green backdrop for more colorful flowers.\\n Climbing roses will give your vertical garden a romantic touch.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plant the three sisters.\", \"描述\": \"For a completely natural vertical garden, you can't go wrong with the three sisters: beans, squash and corn. Native Americans planted these three vegetables together because they coexist so well with one another. They also make for a gorgeous natural vertical garden; the corn provides a \\\"pole\\\" for the beans while the squash will grow along the ground.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Starting the Garden\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick a good spot.\", \"描述\": \"A vertical garden, like any other type of garden, needs to be planted in an area with good soil drainage and the right combination of shade and sunlight. Figure out what conditions the plants you're growing need to thrive, then choose a suitable area in your yard or on your patio.\\nMost vertical gardens do well with a lot of sunlight.\\nPick a spot close to a wall if you want your garden to eventually climb the walls of your house.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure the garden structure is stable.\", \"描述\": \"If you're using a trellis, a stake or a pole, be sure to bury it deep in the ground so that it doesn't wobble or fall over. Remember that the garden will get heavier as it grows, and it will need a solid foundation that can stand up to wind and rain.\\nUse a post driver to push your metal or wooden posts deep into the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plant around the base of the structure.\", \"描述\": \"Taking into account the individual needs of the plants you are using, plant seeds or seedlings in holes spaced around the base of the trellis, pole or other structure you are using. Make sure they aren't too close to each other or the structure so that they'll have room to root and grow.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Care for the plants\", \"描述\": \"Make sure they get adequate water and that you fertilize them, protect them with mulch, and take other measures they need to grow healthy and strong.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Train the plants.\", \"描述\": \"When the seedlings get a few inches high, it's time to train them to wrap around the structure you erected. Gently wrap the stems of the plants around the base of the structure, taking care not to bend or break them. Use ties to hold the stems in place as they grow.\\nDon't tie the stems too tightly. This prevents them from growing properly and may actually damage the plant.\\nAs the stems begin to grow and wind around the structure, continue using ties to train them to grow in the direction you want them to grow.\\nFor vines like hops, tie a string to the trellis a few feet above the ground, and stake it to the ground near the plant. Train the plant up the string until it reaches the trellis. If you are using metal or other slick types of materials, run the string all the way to the top so the vines have something to grab onto.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Change dimensions of the homemade trellis as needed to fit your space or make multiple smaller beds with space in between for easy access.\\n\", \"Try training peas, beans, cucumbers, melons, or sweet potato vines up this structure. You can intersperse decorative plants, such as marigolds, or lower plants, such as strawberries, to make this an interesting and tasty planting. Don't use treated lumber if you're growing food.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,609 |
How to Build a Vertical Garden from Soda Bottles
|
1. Create a Base for the Tower
1-1. Cut around the base of one soda bottle.
Make the cut a bit below where the label ends, ideally so that a tiny bit of the bottom curve inward is preserved. This will help the bottles nest tightly together when you stack them. Discard base of bottle
1-2. Poke two drainage holes with scissors, on opposite sides, about three inches above the cap.
How big? No bigger than the diameter of a Bic pen.
1-3. Fill the bottle with potting mix, compost or garden soil, pressing the soil in lightly.
Leave an inch of space at the top of the bottle.
1-4. Tie the base for your tower onto a supporting structure, such as chain-link fencing or wire, with twine.
2. Build the Tower Levels
2-1. Cut the bottom off a bottle, just as you did to create the base.
Remove the cap and discard.
2-2. Fill the bottle gently with soil, as for the base, reserving one inch of space at the top.
2-3. Nest the bottle firmly atop the base, and tie it on.
2-4. Repeat this part 1-3 times, depending on how tall you want your tower to be.
3. Create a Drip Irrigation System
3-1. Cut a bottle in half about midway toward the top.
This bottle will be shorter than the others, and will serve as a funnel for watering.
3-2. Cut the bottom off a final bottle, just as you did for the base and tower levels.
This will be the watering bottle.
3-3. Drill a one mm hole in the cap, or pierce with a nail, and replace cap.
3-4. Place the funnel atop the tower, nesting it firmly in the soil of the level below.
3-5. Place the watering bottle atop the funnel, and (optionally) tie down.
4. Plant and Grow
4-1. Cut three lines in each soil bottle with a box cutter, as if you were drawing the top and sides of a square.
(Each side of the square should be about 1.5-2 inches.) Leave the bottom of the square uncut, and instead fold down the flap. This creates a valve to hold the soil and seedling in.
4-2. Poke a hole, and insert a small seedling or seeds.
4-3. Fill the watering bottle every few days, as needed.
4-4. Finished.
Tips
If the watering bottle ceases to drip, check the drainage hole in the cap for clogging.
Try adding a handful of sand to the watering bottle to slow the drip rate and allow more gradual and efficient watering.
Wondering what to plant? This method can work for growing smaller veggies such as lettuce, arugula, dandelion greens, beets, radishes, beans, or peas. Also try various herbs or medicinal plants (aloe, parsley, mint, basil, oregano) and flowers (marigolds and zinnias do very well).
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:14",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Create a Base for the Tower\\n1-1. Cut around the base of one soda bottle.\\nMake the cut a bit below where the label ends, ideally so that a tiny bit of the bottom curve inward is preserved. This will help the bottles nest tightly together when you stack them. Discard base of bottle\\n1-2. Poke two drainage holes with scissors, on opposite sides, about three inches above the cap.\\nHow big? No bigger than the diameter of a Bic pen.\\n1-3. Fill the bottle with potting mix, compost or garden soil, pressing the soil in lightly.\\nLeave an inch of space at the top of the bottle.\\n1-4. Tie the base for your tower onto a supporting structure, such as chain-link fencing or wire, with twine.\\n\\n2. Build the Tower Levels\\n2-1. Cut the bottom off a bottle, just as you did to create the base.\\nRemove the cap and discard.\\n2-2. Fill the bottle gently with soil, as for the base, reserving one inch of space at the top.\\n\\n2-3. Nest the bottle firmly atop the base, and tie it on.\\n\\n2-4. Repeat this part 1-3 times, depending on how tall you want your tower to be.\\n\\n3. Create a Drip Irrigation System\\n3-1. Cut a bottle in half about midway toward the top.\\nThis bottle will be shorter than the others, and will serve as a funnel for watering.\\n3-2. Cut the bottom off a final bottle, just as you did for the base and tower levels.\\nThis will be the watering bottle.\\n3-3. Drill a one mm hole in the cap, or pierce with a nail, and replace cap.\\n\\n3-4. Place the funnel atop the tower, nesting it firmly in the soil of the level below.\\n\\n3-5. Place the watering bottle atop the funnel, and (optionally) tie down.\\n\\n4. Plant and Grow\\n4-1. Cut three lines in each soil bottle with a box cutter, as if you were drawing the top and sides of a square.\\n(Each side of the square should be about 1.5-2 inches.) Leave the bottom of the square uncut, and instead fold down the flap. This creates a valve to hold the soil and seedling in.\\n4-2. Poke a hole, and insert a small seedling or seeds.\\n\\n4-3. Fill the watering bottle every few days, as needed.\\n\\n4-4. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nIf the watering bottle ceases to drip, check the drainage hole in the cap for clogging.\\nTry adding a handful of sand to the watering bottle to slow the drip rate and allow more gradual and efficient watering.\\nWondering what to plant? This method can work for growing smaller veggies such as lettuce, arugula, dandelion greens, beets, radishes, beans, or peas. Also try various herbs or medicinal plants (aloe, parsley, mint, basil, oregano) and flowers (marigolds and zinnias do very well).\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Here is a way to maximize your limited porch or garden space by growing vertically. You'll learn to make drip-irrigating garden towers out of recycled 2-liter soda bottles. This method works well for growing flowers, herbs, and small veggies.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a Base for the Tower\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut around the base of one soda bottle.\", \"描述\": \"Make the cut a bit below where the label ends, ideally so that a tiny bit of the bottom curve inward is preserved. This will help the bottles nest tightly together when you stack them. Discard base of bottle\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Poke two drainage holes with scissors, on opposite sides, about three inches above the cap.\", \"描述\": \"How big? No bigger than the diameter of a Bic pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill the bottle with potting mix, compost or garden soil, pressing the soil in lightly.\", \"描述\": \"Leave an inch of space at the top of the bottle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tie the base for your tower onto a supporting structure, such as chain-link fencing or wire, with twine.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the Tower Levels\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the bottom off a bottle, just as you did to create the base.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the cap and discard.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill the bottle gently with soil, as for the base, reserving one inch of space at the top.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Nest the bottle firmly atop the base, and tie it on.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat this part 1-3 times, depending on how tall you want your tower to be.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a Drip Irrigation System\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut a bottle in half about midway toward the top.\", \"描述\": \"This bottle will be shorter than the others, and will serve as a funnel for watering.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the bottom off a final bottle, just as you did for the base and tower levels.\", \"描述\": \"This will be the watering bottle.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill a one mm hole in the cap, or pierce with a nail, and replace cap.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the funnel atop the tower, nesting it firmly in the soil of the level below.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the watering bottle atop the funnel, and (optionally) tie down.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Plant and Grow\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut three lines in each soil bottle with a box cutter, as if you were drawing the top and sides of a square.\", \"描述\": \"(Each side of the square should be about 1.5-2 inches.) Leave the bottom of the square uncut, and instead fold down the flap. This creates a valve to hold the soil and seedling in.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Poke a hole, and insert a small seedling or seeds.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill the watering bottle every few days, as needed.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If the watering bottle ceases to drip, check the drainage hole in the cap for clogging.\\n\", \"Try adding a handful of sand to the watering bottle to slow the drip rate and allow more gradual and efficient watering.\\n\", \"Wondering what to plant? This method can work for growing smaller veggies such as lettuce, arugula, dandelion greens, beets, radishes, beans, or peas. Also try various herbs or medicinal plants (aloe, parsley, mint, basil, oregano) and flowers (marigolds and zinnias do very well).\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,610 |
How to Build a Violin
|
1. Building the Rib Structure
1-1. Trace a violin mould template onto a piece of wood that’s 400 × 250 × 12 mm (15.75 × 9.84 × 0.47 in).
Look online for templates for 4/4 violins, which are the standard sizes for adults, and print one out at full size so you can work off of it. Make sure the template you find has 8 large holes in the middle of the outline or else you won’t know where to cut. Transfer the outline directly onto a piece of plywood that’s 400 × 250 × 12 mm (15.75 × 9.84 × 0.47 in), making sure you’re as accurate as possible or else your finished violin may not fit together well.
Any type of plywood works for making your mould template since it won’t be included in the final instrument.
You can choose a template for a smaller violin, such as a 1/2 or 3/4, if you want to make one for a younger violinist.
Violin templates may vary slightly in size and decoration, so pick a template that you like to work from.
1-2. Cut the rib mould out from your wood with a scroll saw.
Put on safety glasses before you start working with your saw to protect your eyes. Turn on your scroll saw and carefully guide the blade around the outline for your template. Make sure the saw blade stays on the outside of your outline so you don’t remove too much material from the template. Work slowly around the edge of the entire outline until you're able to remove the piece from the block of wood.
If you aren’t able to remove all of the excess wood with your saw, use a sander or file to shape it to size.
Be mindful of where the saw blade is at all times so you don’t accidentally cut yourself while you’re working.
Try to avoid cutting sharp turns continuously when you're using a scroll saw. Instead, cut one angle and then cut another angle separately. You might find that backing out of your current cut and approaching from a different angle is helpful when cutting fine turns or small details.
1-3. Use a drill press to remove the holes from the middle of the template.
Change the drill bit in the press to one that’s the same diameter as the circles on your template mould. Set the template on a drill press so the bit lines up with one of the circular holes you need to cut. Pull the handle down on the drill press to slowly cut through the hole. Let go of the handle to raise the drill bit and adjust your mould. Continue drilling all of the holes on the mould.
If you don’t have access to a drill press, then you can use a regular handheld drill with your largest drill bit to make a starting hole, and then use your scroll saw to cut along the holes’ outlines.
1-4. Shape the wooden C-blocks to fit into the mould’s mortises.
The mould has 6 different mortises on the top, bottom, and sides of the template that are used to hold the ribs, or sides, of the violin in place. Use blocks of wood and cut them to size using a bandsaw or scroll saw. Sand the edges of the blocks with 220-grit sandpaper so they can fit into the mortises on the mould perfectly.
The size of your top C-block is 32 by 50 by 22 millimetres (1.26 × 1.97 × 0.87 in).
The bottom C-block will be 34 by 46 by 20 millimetres (1.34 × 1.81 × 0.79 in).
The upper side C-blocks are 33 by 25 by 28 millimetres (1.30 × 0.98 × 1.10 in).
The lower side C-blocks will be 33 by 25 by 28 millimetres (1.30 × 0.98 × 1.10 in).
1-5. Glue the C-blocks to the mortises of the mould.
Spread a thin layer of wood glue on the longest side of each mortise on the template mould using your finger or a small flat paintbrush. Press the C-blocks into each of the mortises where they fit. Secure C-clamps onto the mould and blocks so one end of each clamp is in one of the holes you drilled. Leave the C-blocks clamped for at least 24 hours so the glue has time to set.
Only apply glue to one side of each mortise or else you won’t be able to easily remove it later.
1-6. Chisel the C-blocks on the side to match the corners of your violin template.
Lay the template you originally traced on top of the mould so you know where the corners on each side of the violin lie. Draw the corners onto the C-blocks glued to each side of the mould so you know what you need to cut off. Use a chisel to cut through the blocks so the C-shape on either side of the violin has a curved edge. Sand any rough edges with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth them down.
Don’t chisel the outer side of the C-block yet since it will help hold the ribs in place.
1-7. Cut out the rib pieces of your violin so they’re 34 mm (1.3 in) wide.
Look for a flexible sheet of maple wood that’s at least 334 millimetres (13.1 in) long to make your ribs. Run the sheet through a bandsaw or a circular saw to cut the pieces until they’re 34 millimetres (1.3 in) wide. Cut out 5-6 strips of wood to use for the ribs so you have enough to bend and shape around the outline of your template.
If you want to know exactly how long your strips need to be, measure around the edge of your mould with a flexible tape measure so you know the circumference of the instrument.
Maple is the standard wood that violins are made from, but you can use other hardwoods if you want.
1-8. Plane the ribs so they’re 1 ⁄2 mm (0.059 in) thick.
Clamp the strips of wood to a flat work surface, and guide a wood plane on top of each strip to shave off some of their thickness. Continue planing each strip, checking the thickness after each pass until you reach 1 ⁄2 mm (0.059 in). Be careful not to take too much material off of the ribs since your instrument won’t be as sturdy otherwise.
Use a manual planer rather than an electric one since it will give you better control over the thickness.
1-9. Soak the C-rib pieces in water for 2-3 minutes.
The C-rib pieces are the shortest pieces that fit into the C-shaped sections on the sides of your violin. Submerge the strips under cold water so they can absorb some and become more flexible (and won’t burn when you start bending them). After 2-3 minutes, pull the strips out and shake off the excess water.
Only soak 2 of the strips you cut at first so the other pieces don’t get too waterlogged.
1-10. Bend the C-ribs into shape using a bending iron.
A bending iron is a round piece of heated metal used to heat wood and bend it into curves. Heat the bending iron to 200–250 °C (392–482 °F) before you start bending the ribs or else they may break. Guide the rib pieces over the bending iron and shape them around the curve on the iron. Try to get the curve close to matching with the C-shape curves on the sides of the violin mould.
You can buy a bending iron from your local hardware store or online.
Wear gloves while working with a bending iron since it’s hot and will cause the wood to heat up as well.
Be careful around the bending iron since it will cause severe burns if you touch it.
1-11. Glue and clamp the C-ribs onto the mould.
Guide the bent rib pieces into the C-shaped curves on the sides of the template mould and fit them tightly against the edge. Lift the ends of the ribs and place a small amount of glue on the C-blocks on the tops and bottoms of each curve. Press the rib pieces against the glue and place a flat piece of scrap wood between the C-blocks to hold the ribs in place. Clamp the scrap wood to the mould and let the glue dry for 24 hours.
If your rib pieces are too long for the curves, cut them down carefully with a utility knife so they extend 1–2 millimetres (0.039–0.079 in) past the points of the corner.
1-12. Cut the C-blocks so they’re flush with the corners.
Remove the clamps from your mould so you can easily cut off pieces from your C-blocks. Use a wood gouge or chisel to shape the C-blocks into the corners of the violin. Continue shaping the C-blocks until the edges are flush with the rest of your template mould and sand them if you need to smooth them out.
Be careful not to remove too much material from the C-blocks or else you may ruin the shape of your violin.
1-13. Bend and glue the top and bottom ribs into place.
Heat the bending iron to 200–250 °C (392–482 °F) while you soak the rib pieces for the top and bottom of your violin. Guide the rib pieces along the bending iron to shape them as closely as you can to the shape of the violin. Set the ribs along the edge of the template mould and press them tight against the side. Apply a small amount of glue to the ends and centers of the ribs so they adhere to the C-blocks. Clamp the ribs in place and let them dry for at least 24 hours so the glue has time to set.
You may need to use curved pieces of scrap wood to hold the ribs in position so they don’t dry crooked.
You can either use 1 or 2 different rib pieces for both the top and bottom curves of the violin. It may be easier to shape 2 rib pieces than a single piece.
1-14. Pop the ribs out from the mould once the glue has set.
As soon as the glue is completely dry, undo the clamps and carefully try to pull the entire rib structure up and off of the mould. If it sticks in places, carefully shimmy a small chisel between the mould and the ribs so you can pry it out. Eventually, the ribs and the C-blocks will come free from the mould.
Don’t try to force the rib structure out of the mould since you could break the wood.
1-15. Round the inside edges of the C-blocks with a file.
Place the edge of a file on the inside edges of the C-blocks and carefully sand them down. Work the C-blocks on the side corners of the violin so they make a smooth curve that follows the angle of the rib pieces. Round the corners on the bottom and top pieces so they aren’t sharp.
2. Carving the Front of the Violin
2-1. Trace 2 mm (0.079 in) around the rib structure onto a piece of wood.
Set your rib structure onto a piece of maple that’s at least 375 by 220 by 20 millimetres (14.76 × 8.66 × 0.79 in). Place a pencil along the edge of the rib structure and follow along the outline closely so your front piece is the right size. Hold your pencil at the same angle for the entire outline so it doesn’t affect your tracing.
Make sure the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the violin or else it won’t be as sturdy.
If you didn’t use maple for your rib pieces, then use the same wood for the front of your violin so it looks cohesive.
2-2. Cut the shape for the front of your violin using a bandsaw.
Wear safety glasses before starting on the bandsaw so you don’t hurt yourself. Guide the piece of wood through the blade of the saw to cut around the outside of the outline. Don’t cut right on your line or else the front piece will be too small when you try to attach it. Work your way around the sides of the piece until it’s completely cut out.
Use caution while working with a bandsaw so you don’t accidentally cut yourself.
2-3. Gouge the outer border to a thickness of 4 ⁄2 mm (0.18 in).
A wood gouge is a tool to remove and smooth out pieces of wood. Measure in from the edge of the front piece about 7 millimetres (0.28 in) so you know how much you need to gouge. Use a wood gouge to flatten the edge around the violin to make the platform, which is where the violin connects to the ribs. Continue flattening the edge of the front piece until it’s only 4 millimetres (0.16 in) thick.
You can buy a wood gouge from your local hardware store.
Don’t remove too much material or else you could break through the bottom of the front piece.
2-4. Carve a channel on the front piece that’s 3 ⁄2 mm (0.14 in) from the edges.
Use a chisel or a wood gouge to carve the channel out of the violin. Measure in from the edge by 3 ⁄2 millimetres (0.14 in) and cut it to a depth of 2 millimetres (0.079 in). Work completely around the edge of the front piece so the channel goes completely around it.
2-5. Bend strips of purfling with your bending iron.
Purfling is a decorative wooden border around the edge of your violin that also helps support the instrument. Heat up your bending iron to 200 °C (392 °F) and soak the strips in water for 2-3 minutes. Guide the purfling around the curves of the bending iron so they’re close to the curves in the channel you carved.
In total, you will need about 500 millimetres (20 in) of purfling for the front of your violin.
Wear gloves while working with the bending iron so you don’t burn yourself.
The bending iron is extremely hot and will cause severe burns if you touch it.
You can buy purfling strips from a music shop or online.
2-6. Glue purfling strips into the channel you just carved.
Starting from the corners on the sides of the violin, apply a small amount of hot glue into the channel and guide the purfling into the shape. Press the purfling into the channel so it has firm contact with the glue and dries in place. If you need to, use a small hammer to tap the purfling into the channel.
You do not need to clamp the purfling in place since hot glue sets quickly.
Don’t apply hot glue directly on the purfling since the glue could cause it to warp.
2-7. Use a wood scraper to arch the violin along the center line.
Guide a wood scraper down the length of the violin to remove the excess wood that’s on top. Make smooth slopes coming from the center of the violin to the flat edge around the outside you already carved. Make sure the highest point of the arch is about 16–18 millimetres (0.63–0.71 in) up from the bottom of the piece.
As you start working on more detailed sections of the violin, switch to smaller hand planes so you can be more accurate with how much wood you remove.
2-8. Flip the front of the violin over to carve out the backside.
Flip the wood over so the arched side is face-down. Clamp the front piece in place so you can easily hollow out the bottom of the violin. Leave the area that’s 7 millimetres (0.28 in) from the edge flat and use a wood scraper or gouge to hollow out the center of the violin. Continue removing material until it’s between 4–6 millimetres (0.16–0.24 in) thick.
Be gentle while working with your violin since you could break the wood if you use too much force.
Make sure you use new, sharp tools to make cutting the wood easier.
2-9. Cut out the f-holes for your violin.
The f-holes are the hollowed-out sections where the sound of the violin comes from. Flip the front piece over so the arched side is face-up again, and position the f-holes so the top of each one is 42 millimetres (1.7 in) from one another and about 150 millimetres (5.9 in) from the top of the piece. Use a handheld drill to bore through the spots where you’re placing the f-holes and then use a scroll saw to cut out the shape.
You can print out templates for f-holes so they’re already positioned correctly and so you don’t need to draw them freehand.
2-10. Glue a bass bar onto the backside of the front piece.
Turn the front piece over so the hollowed-out side is face-up. Cut a piece of spruce to 350 by 20 by 8 millimetres (13.78 × 0.79 × 0.31 in) and plane the sides so they’re parallel with one another. Place the bass bar so it’s 12 millimetres (0.47 in) to the right of the center line of the instrument. Glue the bass bar in place with wood glue and clamp it in place for 24 hours. When the glue is set, you can remove the clamp.
The bass bar helps the sound inside your violin resonate to make a more pleasant tone.
Spruce is the traditional wood to use for a violin, but you can use other hardwoods if you want.
3. Shaping the Violin Back
3-1. Trace 2 mm (0.079 in) around the rib structure onto a flat piece of wood.
Place your rib structure on a piece of wood that’s 375 by 220 by 20 millimetres (14.76 × 8.66 × 0.79 in), and make sure the wood grain follows the length of the mould. Put the point of your pencil against the edge of the rib structure and slowly trace around the outline so you know what shape to cut out from your wood.
Don’t change the angle that you’re holding your pencil since it could affect the size and shape of your outline.
3-2. Draw a platform in the top center of your outline for the neck button.
The neck piece of your violin directly connects to the bottom of the instrument, so you need to include a platform at the top, also known as the button. Use a straightedge to draw a 22 mm (0.87 in) line that intersects the center line of the violin. Extend straight lines down from the ends of the one you just drew so they connect with the outline you traced.
Make sure the button is symmetrical across the centerline or else the violin neck will be crooked when you place it.
3-3. Cut the bottom piece out using a bandsaw.
Wear safety glasses while you work so you don’t get anything in your eyes. Guide the piece of wood through the bandsaw, slowly working around the curves of the instrument. Make sure you cut outside of the outline you drew so you don’t remove too much material from the back piece.
If you can’t cut out the details around the corners with a bandsaw, then use a file or a scroll saw instead.
3-4. Carve a channel around the outside border of the back piece.
Measure 3 ⁄2 millimetres (0.14 in) in from the edge of the back piece and use a gouge to cut a channel into the back. Make sure the channel is about 2 millimetres (0.079 in) thick and deep so you can easily fit the purfling strips into them later.
Work slowly so you don’t accidentally remove too material, or else the purfling won’t have a tight fit.
3-5. Bend and glue purfling into the channel you just carved.
Heat your bending iron to 200 °C (392 °F) and soak the purfling strips in water for 2-3 minutes so they don’t burn. Guide the purfling strips around the curves of the bending iron so they closely resemble the channel you carved out. Starting in the corners of the instrument, apply hot glue in the channel and tap the purfling into place. Let the glue set completely before continuing.
You will need about 500 millimetres (20 in) of purfling for the back of your violin.
Use the same purfling you used on the front piece so your instrument looks cohesive.
3-6. Carve the back piece of your violin so it arches in the center.
Use a wood plane or scraper to curve the wood on the back piece. Keep the center of the instrument 16 millimetres (0.63 in) tall and smoothly arch the wood toward the edges, which you can plane down to 6 millimetres (0.24 in) thick. As you start working on smaller detailed areas of the violin, switch to smaller hand planes or a thumb plane to control how much wood you’re removing.
Try to get the back of the violin as smooth as possible with your hand plane so it has a gentle curve.
3-7. Flip the back piece over and hollow out the wood.
Set the back piece on your work surface so the arched side is face-down. Clamp the back piece in place and use a wood scraper to hollow out the bottom. Keep the edges flat so you can easily attach them to the ribs later, but remove enough wood in the middle so that the back piece is only 4–6 millimetres (0.16–0.24 in) thick.
Don’t use too much pressure or remove too much material since you could break the wood or affect the sound of the final instrument.
4. Carving the Neck
4-1. Trace a template for the violin’s neck onto a block of wood.
Use a template for the neck that matches the body of the violin you’re making. Print out the templates for the profile and top-down view of the neck, and transfer the outlines to a block of wood that’s at least 250 by 42 by 55 millimetres (9.8 × 1.7 × 2.2 in). Make sure the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the length of the neck or else it won’t be as strong.
4-2. Drill through the peg hole locations on your template.
Look where the 4 holes on the side of the violin’s neck line up and find a drill bit that’s the same size. Set the wood block underneath a drill press and make sure the hole lines up with the drill bit. Pull the handle on the drill press to cut through the wood. Once you drill through the wood, ease the handle back up to pull the drill bit out. Repeat the process for the other 3 holes along the neck.
Wear safety glasses while working with a drill press so you don’t get any sawdust in your eyes.
If you don’t have a drill press, use a handheld drill with a matching drill bit.
4-3. Cut out your template from the block of wood.
Use a bandsaw to cut out the main shape of the neck. Keep your cuts outside of the lines you drew so you don’t cut the neck too small. Start by working from the profile view so you can cut out the general shape of the neck first. Then work from the outline for the top-down view so the neck is the correct thickness.
You may need to redraw either your top-down or profile outline as you cut off more wood.
4-4. Carve out the scroll and peg box with a chisel.
Work with a gouge and chisel to detail your neck and remove any wood you couldn’t get off with your saw. Carve out a rectangular shape between the holes you drilled to make the peg box, which is where you’ll place your tuning pegs and strings. Then add details to the scroll, which is spiraled part at the end of the neck. Follow your template closely to remove the excess wood.
The peg box is usually 72 millimetres (2.8 in) long and 19 ⁄2 millimetres (0.77 in) wide.
4-5. Cut the fingerboard out from a piece of ebony.
Use a block of ebony that’s about 280 by 50 by 15 millimetres (11.02 × 1.97 × 0.59 in) to use for your fingerboard. Draw the outline from a template onto your piece of ebony so the bottom edge of the fingerboard is wider than the top edge. Use a bandsaw to cut through the ebony along your outlines and arch the fingerboard so it’s 10 millimetres (0.39 in) thick at the tallest point. Hollow out the bottom at the wide end of the fingerboard so it’s arched and the wood is 6 millimetres (0.24 in) thick.
Ebony is the traditional material used for the neckboard, but you can use any type of hardwood if you need to.
4-6. Glue the fingerboard to the neck.
Spread your wood glue on the bottom side of the fingerboard with your finger or a small paintbrush so it has an even application. Press the fingerboard in the center of the neck and clamp it in 3 different places along the length so it adheres to the neck. Let the glue set for 24 hours before removing the clamps and continuing your work.
Put cushions or something soft between the wood and your clamps if you don’t want to leave any marks or scratches on the fingerboard or neck.
5. Assembling the Body
5-1. Clamp the back piece to the rib structure with multiple spool clamps.
Set the rib structure on a flat work surface and place the back piece on top of it. Carefully line up the edges of the back piece with the edges of the rib structure and clamp them in place. Use about 32 spool clamps total so you can apply even pressure around the sides of the back piece and rib structure.
You can find a diagram of where to place your spool clamps here: http://www.makingtheviolin.com/Fitting%20the%20back.
5-2. Apply your glue between the back piece and the ribs with a knife.
Take off 2-3 clamps near one of the corners of your violin so you can apply the glue. Dip the blade of a parting knife into the glue you’re using and slide the blade between the rib structure and the back piece. The glue will transfer to the edge of the ribs and adhere to the back piece. Reclamp the area, making sure everything is still aligned.
Pull the rib structure and back piece slightly apart with your hands if you can’t fit the knife easily between them.
5-3. Work your way around the back piece and let the glue dry.
Continue gluing the rest of the corners by removing clamps, applying the glue with your knife, and then again clamping them. Once the corners are glued, work around the curves of the instrument so the glue holds the pieces together. Once you’ve applied glue around the entire back piece, let the glue set for at least 24 hours before removing your clamps.
Before you put the clamps back on, make sure the back piece is still lined up with the edges of the rib structure so you don’t accidentally warp the wood.
5-4. Repeat the process for attaching the front side.
After the back piece is attached, line up the front piece on the opposite side of the rib structure and clamp it in place so it doesn’t move around. Apply glue to the corners first, and slowly work around the curves until it’s completely glued. Tighten your clamps and let the glue set for at least 24 hours so it can completely dry.
5-5. Cut out a mortise in the top piece and ribs for the neck piece.
The bottom of the neck piece connects to the button you made on the bottom piece, but it also cuts into the top piece of the instrument slightly. Dry-fit the neck into place and mark the thickness on the front piece and rib structure. Use a utility knife or a sharp chisel to cut out the rib material and edge of the front piece.
Work slowly while you’re cutting out the mortise since you could damage the rest of the violin.
5-6. Glue the neck piece to the violin body.
Apply a layer of glue to the mortise, the button on the back piece, and the neck joint. Press the neck piece into place and make sure the center lines up with the middle of the instrument. Clamp the neck in place and let it dry for at least 24 hours so the glue has time to set.
Wipe off any excess glue so it doesn’t dry on the violin’s body and cause any damage.
5-7. Apply 2-3 coats of varnish onto the violin body.
Use an oil-based varnish for your violin to change the color of the wood and make it shiny. Use a small flat paintbrush to paint a thin coat of the varnish onto the maple pieces of your violin. Wait for the first coat of varnish to dry for at least 24 hours before applying a second coat. You can add as many coats of the varnish as you want to change the instrument’s color.
Don’t apply varnish to the fingerboard since it could affect the overall sound of the instrument.
6. Adding the Peripherals
6-1. Place the tuning pegs in the holes you drilled on the neck.
The tuning pegs tighten the strings and are what you use to tune the instrument. Place the pegs for the A-string and E-string in the first hole, which is the top one, and the third hole from the right side of the instrument. Put the pegs for the D-string and G-string in the second and fourth holes from the left side and tap them into place so they go completely through the peg box.
You can buy tuning pegs online or from music supply stores.
Make sure the pegs for the correct strings are in the right place, or else your strings won’t sit correctly on the instrument.
6-2. Put the soundpost inside of the violin.
The soundpost is a small dowel placed inside the violin that helps the instrument resonate. Put the soundpost in the jaws of a soundpost setter and guide it through the f-hole on the front of your violin. Move the soundpost into the center of the violin and make sure it fits tightly between the top and bottom pieces of the violin. Let go of the soundpost and pull the setting tool back out.
You can buy soundposts and soundpost setting tools from music stores or online.
6-3. Attach the tailpiece to the bottom of the violin.
Drill a 6 mm (0.24 in) hole in the center of the ribs on the end of your violin. Screw an end pin into the hole so you can hook the tailpiece around it. Set the tailpiece against the bottom edge of the violin so it lines up with your fingerboard and hook the looping metal piece around the end pin to secure it.
You can buy a tailpiece from a music store or online.
6-4. Put the strings on so they stretch between the tailpiece and tuning pegs.
Place your strings in the proper tuning pegs and start winding them to add a small amount of tension to them. Place the other ends of the strings in the base of the tailpiece so you can secure them in place. Tighten the strings until they feel taut across the instrument.
From left to right, the strings should be G, D, A, and E.
You can buy new violin strings from music stores or online.
6-5. Set the bridge for the violin underneath the strings near the end of the fingerboard.
The bridge supports the strings, lifts them away from the body of the violin, and helps them resonate throughout the instrument. Slide the bridge into position about 50 millimetres (2.0 in) from the end of the fingerboard and stand it up so the arched side touches the strings. Position the feet of the bridge at a 90-degree angle to the body of the violin.
You can buy violin bridges from music stores or online.
The tension of the strings will hold the bridge in place so you do not need to use any glue or adhesive.
Warnings
Wear safety glasses while you work with power tools to protect your eyes.
Use caution while working with saws and power tools so you don’t accidentally hurt yourself.
Bending irons get extremely hot, so be sure not to touch them or else you will severely burn yourself.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:14",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Rib Structure\\n1-1. Trace a violin mould template onto a piece of wood that’s 400 × 250 × 12 mm (15.75 × 9.84 × 0.47 in).\\nLook online for templates for 4/4 violins, which are the standard sizes for adults, and print one out at full size so you can work off of it. Make sure the template you find has 8 large holes in the middle of the outline or else you won’t know where to cut. Transfer the outline directly onto a piece of plywood that’s 400 × 250 × 12 mm (15.75 × 9.84 × 0.47 in), making sure you’re as accurate as possible or else your finished violin may not fit together well.\\nAny type of plywood works for making your mould template since it won’t be included in the final instrument.\\nYou can choose a template for a smaller violin, such as a 1/2 or 3/4, if you want to make one for a younger violinist.\\nViolin templates may vary slightly in size and decoration, so pick a template that you like to work from.\\n1-2. Cut the rib mould out from your wood with a scroll saw.\\nPut on safety glasses before you start working with your saw to protect your eyes. Turn on your scroll saw and carefully guide the blade around the outline for your template. Make sure the saw blade stays on the outside of your outline so you don’t remove too much material from the template. Work slowly around the edge of the entire outline until you're able to remove the piece from the block of wood.\\nIf you aren’t able to remove all of the excess wood with your saw, use a sander or file to shape it to size.\\nBe mindful of where the saw blade is at all times so you don’t accidentally cut yourself while you’re working.\\nTry to avoid cutting sharp turns continuously when you're using a scroll saw. Instead, cut one angle and then cut another angle separately. You might find that backing out of your current cut and approaching from a different angle is helpful when cutting fine turns or small details.\\n1-3. Use a drill press to remove the holes from the middle of the template.\\nChange the drill bit in the press to one that’s the same diameter as the circles on your template mould. Set the template on a drill press so the bit lines up with one of the circular holes you need to cut. Pull the handle down on the drill press to slowly cut through the hole. Let go of the handle to raise the drill bit and adjust your mould. Continue drilling all of the holes on the mould.\\nIf you don’t have access to a drill press, then you can use a regular handheld drill with your largest drill bit to make a starting hole, and then use your scroll saw to cut along the holes’ outlines.\\n1-4. Shape the wooden C-blocks to fit into the mould’s mortises.\\nThe mould has 6 different mortises on the top, bottom, and sides of the template that are used to hold the ribs, or sides, of the violin in place. Use blocks of wood and cut them to size using a bandsaw or scroll saw. Sand the edges of the blocks with 220-grit sandpaper so they can fit into the mortises on the mould perfectly.\\nThe size of your top C-block is 32 by 50 by 22 millimetres (1.26 × 1.97 × 0.87 in).\\nThe bottom C-block will be 34 by 46 by 20 millimetres (1.34 × 1.81 × 0.79 in).\\nThe upper side C-blocks are 33 by 25 by 28 millimetres (1.30 × 0.98 × 1.10 in).\\nThe lower side C-blocks will be 33 by 25 by 28 millimetres (1.30 × 0.98 × 1.10 in).\\n1-5. Glue the C-blocks to the mortises of the mould.\\nSpread a thin layer of wood glue on the longest side of each mortise on the template mould using your finger or a small flat paintbrush. Press the C-blocks into each of the mortises where they fit. Secure C-clamps onto the mould and blocks so one end of each clamp is in one of the holes you drilled. Leave the C-blocks clamped for at least 24 hours so the glue has time to set.\\nOnly apply glue to one side of each mortise or else you won’t be able to easily remove it later.\\n1-6. Chisel the C-blocks on the side to match the corners of your violin template.\\nLay the template you originally traced on top of the mould so you know where the corners on each side of the violin lie. Draw the corners onto the C-blocks glued to each side of the mould so you know what you need to cut off. Use a chisel to cut through the blocks so the C-shape on either side of the violin has a curved edge. Sand any rough edges with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth them down.\\nDon’t chisel the outer side of the C-block yet since it will help hold the ribs in place.\\n1-7. Cut out the rib pieces of your violin so they’re 34 mm (1.3 in) wide.\\nLook for a flexible sheet of maple wood that’s at least 334 millimetres (13.1 in) long to make your ribs. Run the sheet through a bandsaw or a circular saw to cut the pieces until they’re 34 millimetres (1.3 in) wide. Cut out 5-6 strips of wood to use for the ribs so you have enough to bend and shape around the outline of your template.\\nIf you want to know exactly how long your strips need to be, measure around the edge of your mould with a flexible tape measure so you know the circumference of the instrument.\\nMaple is the standard wood that violins are made from, but you can use other hardwoods if you want.\\n1-8. Plane the ribs so they’re 1 ⁄2 mm (0.059 in) thick.\\nClamp the strips of wood to a flat work surface, and guide a wood plane on top of each strip to shave off some of their thickness. Continue planing each strip, checking the thickness after each pass until you reach 1 ⁄2 mm (0.059 in). Be careful not to take too much material off of the ribs since your instrument won’t be as sturdy otherwise.\\nUse a manual planer rather than an electric one since it will give you better control over the thickness.\\n1-9. Soak the C-rib pieces in water for 2-3 minutes.\\nThe C-rib pieces are the shortest pieces that fit into the C-shaped sections on the sides of your violin. Submerge the strips under cold water so they can absorb some and become more flexible (and won’t burn when you start bending them). After 2-3 minutes, pull the strips out and shake off the excess water.\\nOnly soak 2 of the strips you cut at first so the other pieces don’t get too waterlogged.\\n1-10. Bend the C-ribs into shape using a bending iron.\\nA bending iron is a round piece of heated metal used to heat wood and bend it into curves. Heat the bending iron to 200–250 °C (392–482 °F) before you start bending the ribs or else they may break. Guide the rib pieces over the bending iron and shape them around the curve on the iron. Try to get the curve close to matching with the C-shape curves on the sides of the violin mould.\\nYou can buy a bending iron from your local hardware store or online.\\nWear gloves while working with a bending iron since it’s hot and will cause the wood to heat up as well.\\nBe careful around the bending iron since it will cause severe burns if you touch it.\\n1-11. Glue and clamp the C-ribs onto the mould.\\nGuide the bent rib pieces into the C-shaped curves on the sides of the template mould and fit them tightly against the edge. Lift the ends of the ribs and place a small amount of glue on the C-blocks on the tops and bottoms of each curve. Press the rib pieces against the glue and place a flat piece of scrap wood between the C-blocks to hold the ribs in place. Clamp the scrap wood to the mould and let the glue dry for 24 hours.\\nIf your rib pieces are too long for the curves, cut them down carefully with a utility knife so they extend 1–2 millimetres (0.039–0.079 in) past the points of the corner.\\n1-12. Cut the C-blocks so they’re flush with the corners.\\nRemove the clamps from your mould so you can easily cut off pieces from your C-blocks. Use a wood gouge or chisel to shape the C-blocks into the corners of the violin. Continue shaping the C-blocks until the edges are flush with the rest of your template mould and sand them if you need to smooth them out.\\nBe careful not to remove too much material from the C-blocks or else you may ruin the shape of your violin.\\n1-13. Bend and glue the top and bottom ribs into place.\\nHeat the bending iron to 200–250 °C (392–482 °F) while you soak the rib pieces for the top and bottom of your violin. Guide the rib pieces along the bending iron to shape them as closely as you can to the shape of the violin. Set the ribs along the edge of the template mould and press them tight against the side. Apply a small amount of glue to the ends and centers of the ribs so they adhere to the C-blocks. Clamp the ribs in place and let them dry for at least 24 hours so the glue has time to set.\\nYou may need to use curved pieces of scrap wood to hold the ribs in position so they don’t dry crooked.\\nYou can either use 1 or 2 different rib pieces for both the top and bottom curves of the violin. It may be easier to shape 2 rib pieces than a single piece.\\n1-14. Pop the ribs out from the mould once the glue has set.\\nAs soon as the glue is completely dry, undo the clamps and carefully try to pull the entire rib structure up and off of the mould. If it sticks in places, carefully shimmy a small chisel between the mould and the ribs so you can pry it out. Eventually, the ribs and the C-blocks will come free from the mould.\\nDon’t try to force the rib structure out of the mould since you could break the wood.\\n1-15. Round the inside edges of the C-blocks with a file.\\nPlace the edge of a file on the inside edges of the C-blocks and carefully sand them down. Work the C-blocks on the side corners of the violin so they make a smooth curve that follows the angle of the rib pieces. Round the corners on the bottom and top pieces so they aren’t sharp.\\n2. Carving the Front of the Violin\\n2-1. Trace 2 mm (0.079 in) around the rib structure onto a piece of wood.\\nSet your rib structure onto a piece of maple that’s at least 375 by 220 by 20 millimetres (14.76 × 8.66 × 0.79 in). Place a pencil along the edge of the rib structure and follow along the outline closely so your front piece is the right size. Hold your pencil at the same angle for the entire outline so it doesn’t affect your tracing.\\nMake sure the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the violin or else it won’t be as sturdy.\\nIf you didn’t use maple for your rib pieces, then use the same wood for the front of your violin so it looks cohesive.\\n2-2. Cut the shape for the front of your violin using a bandsaw.\\nWear safety glasses before starting on the bandsaw so you don’t hurt yourself. Guide the piece of wood through the blade of the saw to cut around the outside of the outline. Don’t cut right on your line or else the front piece will be too small when you try to attach it. Work your way around the sides of the piece until it’s completely cut out.\\nUse caution while working with a bandsaw so you don’t accidentally cut yourself.\\n2-3. Gouge the outer border to a thickness of 4 ⁄2 mm (0.18 in).\\nA wood gouge is a tool to remove and smooth out pieces of wood. Measure in from the edge of the front piece about 7 millimetres (0.28 in) so you know how much you need to gouge. Use a wood gouge to flatten the edge around the violin to make the platform, which is where the violin connects to the ribs. Continue flattening the edge of the front piece until it’s only 4 millimetres (0.16 in) thick.\\nYou can buy a wood gouge from your local hardware store.\\nDon’t remove too much material or else you could break through the bottom of the front piece.\\n2-4. Carve a channel on the front piece that’s 3 ⁄2 mm (0.14 in) from the edges.\\nUse a chisel or a wood gouge to carve the channel out of the violin. Measure in from the edge by 3 ⁄2 millimetres (0.14 in) and cut it to a depth of 2 millimetres (0.079 in). Work completely around the edge of the front piece so the channel goes completely around it.\\n2-5. Bend strips of purfling with your bending iron.\\nPurfling is a decorative wooden border around the edge of your violin that also helps support the instrument. Heat up your bending iron to 200 °C (392 °F) and soak the strips in water for 2-3 minutes. Guide the purfling around the curves of the bending iron so they’re close to the curves in the channel you carved.\\nIn total, you will need about 500 millimetres (20 in) of purfling for the front of your violin.\\nWear gloves while working with the bending iron so you don’t burn yourself.\\nThe bending iron is extremely hot and will cause severe burns if you touch it.\\nYou can buy purfling strips from a music shop or online.\\n2-6. Glue purfling strips into the channel you just carved.\\nStarting from the corners on the sides of the violin, apply a small amount of hot glue into the channel and guide the purfling into the shape. Press the purfling into the channel so it has firm contact with the glue and dries in place. If you need to, use a small hammer to tap the purfling into the channel.\\nYou do not need to clamp the purfling in place since hot glue sets quickly.\\nDon’t apply hot glue directly on the purfling since the glue could cause it to warp.\\n2-7. Use a wood scraper to arch the violin along the center line.\\nGuide a wood scraper down the length of the violin to remove the excess wood that’s on top. Make smooth slopes coming from the center of the violin to the flat edge around the outside you already carved. Make sure the highest point of the arch is about 16–18 millimetres (0.63–0.71 in) up from the bottom of the piece.\\nAs you start working on more detailed sections of the violin, switch to smaller hand planes so you can be more accurate with how much wood you remove.\\n2-8. Flip the front of the violin over to carve out the backside.\\nFlip the wood over so the arched side is face-down. Clamp the front piece in place so you can easily hollow out the bottom of the violin. Leave the area that’s 7 millimetres (0.28 in) from the edge flat and use a wood scraper or gouge to hollow out the center of the violin. Continue removing material until it’s between 4–6 millimetres (0.16–0.24 in) thick.\\nBe gentle while working with your violin since you could break the wood if you use too much force.\\nMake sure you use new, sharp tools to make cutting the wood easier.\\n2-9. Cut out the f-holes for your violin.\\nThe f-holes are the hollowed-out sections where the sound of the violin comes from. Flip the front piece over so the arched side is face-up again, and position the f-holes so the top of each one is 42 millimetres (1.7 in) from one another and about 150 millimetres (5.9 in) from the top of the piece. Use a handheld drill to bore through the spots where you’re placing the f-holes and then use a scroll saw to cut out the shape.\\nYou can print out templates for f-holes so they’re already positioned correctly and so you don’t need to draw them freehand.\\n2-10. Glue a bass bar onto the backside of the front piece.\\nTurn the front piece over so the hollowed-out side is face-up. Cut a piece of spruce to 350 by 20 by 8 millimetres (13.78 × 0.79 × 0.31 in) and plane the sides so they’re parallel with one another. Place the bass bar so it’s 12 millimetres (0.47 in) to the right of the center line of the instrument. Glue the bass bar in place with wood glue and clamp it in place for 24 hours. When the glue is set, you can remove the clamp.\\nThe bass bar helps the sound inside your violin resonate to make a more pleasant tone.\\nSpruce is the traditional wood to use for a violin, but you can use other hardwoods if you want.\\n3. Shaping the Violin Back\\n3-1. Trace 2 mm (0.079 in) around the rib structure onto a flat piece of wood.\\nPlace your rib structure on a piece of wood that’s 375 by 220 by 20 millimetres (14.76 × 8.66 × 0.79 in), and make sure the wood grain follows the length of the mould. Put the point of your pencil against the edge of the rib structure and slowly trace around the outline so you know what shape to cut out from your wood.\\nDon’t change the angle that you’re holding your pencil since it could affect the size and shape of your outline.\\n3-2. Draw a platform in the top center of your outline for the neck button.\\nThe neck piece of your violin directly connects to the bottom of the instrument, so you need to include a platform at the top, also known as the button. Use a straightedge to draw a 22 mm (0.87 in) line that intersects the center line of the violin. Extend straight lines down from the ends of the one you just drew so they connect with the outline you traced.\\nMake sure the button is symmetrical across the centerline or else the violin neck will be crooked when you place it.\\n3-3. Cut the bottom piece out using a bandsaw.\\nWear safety glasses while you work so you don’t get anything in your eyes. Guide the piece of wood through the bandsaw, slowly working around the curves of the instrument. Make sure you cut outside of the outline you drew so you don’t remove too much material from the back piece.\\nIf you can’t cut out the details around the corners with a bandsaw, then use a file or a scroll saw instead.\\n3-4. Carve a channel around the outside border of the back piece.\\nMeasure 3 ⁄2 millimetres (0.14 in) in from the edge of the back piece and use a gouge to cut a channel into the back. Make sure the channel is about 2 millimetres (0.079 in) thick and deep so you can easily fit the purfling strips into them later.\\nWork slowly so you don’t accidentally remove too material, or else the purfling won’t have a tight fit.\\n3-5. Bend and glue purfling into the channel you just carved.\\nHeat your bending iron to 200 °C (392 °F) and soak the purfling strips in water for 2-3 minutes so they don’t burn. Guide the purfling strips around the curves of the bending iron so they closely resemble the channel you carved out. Starting in the corners of the instrument, apply hot glue in the channel and tap the purfling into place. Let the glue set completely before continuing.\\nYou will need about 500 millimetres (20 in) of purfling for the back of your violin.\\nUse the same purfling you used on the front piece so your instrument looks cohesive.\\n3-6. Carve the back piece of your violin so it arches in the center.\\nUse a wood plane or scraper to curve the wood on the back piece. Keep the center of the instrument 16 millimetres (0.63 in) tall and smoothly arch the wood toward the edges, which you can plane down to 6 millimetres (0.24 in) thick. As you start working on smaller detailed areas of the violin, switch to smaller hand planes or a thumb plane to control how much wood you’re removing.\\nTry to get the back of the violin as smooth as possible with your hand plane so it has a gentle curve.\\n3-7. Flip the back piece over and hollow out the wood.\\nSet the back piece on your work surface so the arched side is face-down. Clamp the back piece in place and use a wood scraper to hollow out the bottom. Keep the edges flat so you can easily attach them to the ribs later, but remove enough wood in the middle so that the back piece is only 4–6 millimetres (0.16–0.24 in) thick.\\nDon’t use too much pressure or remove too much material since you could break the wood or affect the sound of the final instrument.\\n4. Carving the Neck\\n4-1. Trace a template for the violin’s neck onto a block of wood.\\nUse a template for the neck that matches the body of the violin you’re making. Print out the templates for the profile and top-down view of the neck, and transfer the outlines to a block of wood that’s at least 250 by 42 by 55 millimetres (9.8 × 1.7 × 2.2 in). Make sure the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the length of the neck or else it won’t be as strong.\\n4-2. Drill through the peg hole locations on your template.\\nLook where the 4 holes on the side of the violin’s neck line up and find a drill bit that’s the same size. Set the wood block underneath a drill press and make sure the hole lines up with the drill bit. Pull the handle on the drill press to cut through the wood. Once you drill through the wood, ease the handle back up to pull the drill bit out. Repeat the process for the other 3 holes along the neck.\\nWear safety glasses while working with a drill press so you don’t get any sawdust in your eyes.\\nIf you don’t have a drill press, use a handheld drill with a matching drill bit.\\n4-3. Cut out your template from the block of wood.\\nUse a bandsaw to cut out the main shape of the neck. Keep your cuts outside of the lines you drew so you don’t cut the neck too small. Start by working from the profile view so you can cut out the general shape of the neck first. Then work from the outline for the top-down view so the neck is the correct thickness.\\nYou may need to redraw either your top-down or profile outline as you cut off more wood.\\n4-4. Carve out the scroll and peg box with a chisel.\\nWork with a gouge and chisel to detail your neck and remove any wood you couldn’t get off with your saw. Carve out a rectangular shape between the holes you drilled to make the peg box, which is where you’ll place your tuning pegs and strings. Then add details to the scroll, which is spiraled part at the end of the neck. Follow your template closely to remove the excess wood.\\nThe peg box is usually 72 millimetres (2.8 in) long and 19 ⁄2 millimetres (0.77 in) wide.\\n4-5. Cut the fingerboard out from a piece of ebony.\\nUse a block of ebony that’s about 280 by 50 by 15 millimetres (11.02 × 1.97 × 0.59 in) to use for your fingerboard. Draw the outline from a template onto your piece of ebony so the bottom edge of the fingerboard is wider than the top edge. Use a bandsaw to cut through the ebony along your outlines and arch the fingerboard so it’s 10 millimetres (0.39 in) thick at the tallest point. Hollow out the bottom at the wide end of the fingerboard so it’s arched and the wood is 6 millimetres (0.24 in) thick.\\nEbony is the traditional material used for the neckboard, but you can use any type of hardwood if you need to.\\n4-6. Glue the fingerboard to the neck.\\nSpread your wood glue on the bottom side of the fingerboard with your finger or a small paintbrush so it has an even application. Press the fingerboard in the center of the neck and clamp it in 3 different places along the length so it adheres to the neck. Let the glue set for 24 hours before removing the clamps and continuing your work.\\nPut cushions or something soft between the wood and your clamps if you don’t want to leave any marks or scratches on the fingerboard or neck.\\n5. Assembling the Body\\n5-1. Clamp the back piece to the rib structure with multiple spool clamps.\\nSet the rib structure on a flat work surface and place the back piece on top of it. Carefully line up the edges of the back piece with the edges of the rib structure and clamp them in place. Use about 32 spool clamps total so you can apply even pressure around the sides of the back piece and rib structure.\\nYou can find a diagram of where to place your spool clamps here: http://www.makingtheviolin.com/Fitting%20the%20back.\\n5-2. Apply your glue between the back piece and the ribs with a knife.\\nTake off 2-3 clamps near one of the corners of your violin so you can apply the glue. Dip the blade of a parting knife into the glue you’re using and slide the blade between the rib structure and the back piece. The glue will transfer to the edge of the ribs and adhere to the back piece. Reclamp the area, making sure everything is still aligned.\\nPull the rib structure and back piece slightly apart with your hands if you can’t fit the knife easily between them.\\n5-3. Work your way around the back piece and let the glue dry.\\nContinue gluing the rest of the corners by removing clamps, applying the glue with your knife, and then again clamping them. Once the corners are glued, work around the curves of the instrument so the glue holds the pieces together. Once you’ve applied glue around the entire back piece, let the glue set for at least 24 hours before removing your clamps.\\nBefore you put the clamps back on, make sure the back piece is still lined up with the edges of the rib structure so you don’t accidentally warp the wood.\\n5-4. Repeat the process for attaching the front side.\\nAfter the back piece is attached, line up the front piece on the opposite side of the rib structure and clamp it in place so it doesn’t move around. Apply glue to the corners first, and slowly work around the curves until it’s completely glued. Tighten your clamps and let the glue set for at least 24 hours so it can completely dry.\\n5-5. Cut out a mortise in the top piece and ribs for the neck piece.\\nThe bottom of the neck piece connects to the button you made on the bottom piece, but it also cuts into the top piece of the instrument slightly. Dry-fit the neck into place and mark the thickness on the front piece and rib structure. Use a utility knife or a sharp chisel to cut out the rib material and edge of the front piece.\\nWork slowly while you’re cutting out the mortise since you could damage the rest of the violin.\\n5-6. Glue the neck piece to the violin body.\\nApply a layer of glue to the mortise, the button on the back piece, and the neck joint. Press the neck piece into place and make sure the center lines up with the middle of the instrument. Clamp the neck in place and let it dry for at least 24 hours so the glue has time to set.\\nWipe off any excess glue so it doesn’t dry on the violin’s body and cause any damage.\\n5-7. Apply 2-3 coats of varnish onto the violin body.\\nUse an oil-based varnish for your violin to change the color of the wood and make it shiny. Use a small flat paintbrush to paint a thin coat of the varnish onto the maple pieces of your violin. Wait for the first coat of varnish to dry for at least 24 hours before applying a second coat. You can add as many coats of the varnish as you want to change the instrument’s color.\\nDon’t apply varnish to the fingerboard since it could affect the overall sound of the instrument.\\n6. Adding the Peripherals\\n6-1. Place the tuning pegs in the holes you drilled on the neck.\\nThe tuning pegs tighten the strings and are what you use to tune the instrument. Place the pegs for the A-string and E-string in the first hole, which is the top one, and the third hole from the right side of the instrument. Put the pegs for the D-string and G-string in the second and fourth holes from the left side and tap them into place so they go completely through the peg box.\\nYou can buy tuning pegs online or from music supply stores.\\nMake sure the pegs for the correct strings are in the right place, or else your strings won’t sit correctly on the instrument.\\n6-2. Put the soundpost inside of the violin.\\nThe soundpost is a small dowel placed inside the violin that helps the instrument resonate. Put the soundpost in the jaws of a soundpost setter and guide it through the f-hole on the front of your violin. Move the soundpost into the center of the violin and make sure it fits tightly between the top and bottom pieces of the violin. Let go of the soundpost and pull the setting tool back out.\\nYou can buy soundposts and soundpost setting tools from music stores or online.\\n6-3. Attach the tailpiece to the bottom of the violin.\\nDrill a 6 mm (0.24 in) hole in the center of the ribs on the end of your violin. Screw an end pin into the hole so you can hook the tailpiece around it. Set the tailpiece against the bottom edge of the violin so it lines up with your fingerboard and hook the looping metal piece around the end pin to secure it.\\nYou can buy a tailpiece from a music store or online.\\n6-4. Put the strings on so they stretch between the tailpiece and tuning pegs.\\nPlace your strings in the proper tuning pegs and start winding them to add a small amount of tension to them. Place the other ends of the strings in the base of the tailpiece so you can secure them in place. Tighten the strings until they feel taut across the instrument.\\nFrom left to right, the strings should be G, D, A, and E.\\nYou can buy new violin strings from music stores or online.\\n6-5. Set the bridge for the violin underneath the strings near the end of the fingerboard.\\nThe bridge supports the strings, lifts them away from the body of the violin, and helps them resonate throughout the instrument. Slide the bridge into position about 50 millimetres (2.0 in) from the end of the fingerboard and stand it up so the arched side touches the strings. Position the feet of the bridge at a 90-degree angle to the body of the violin.\\nYou can buy violin bridges from music stores or online.\\nThe tension of the strings will hold the bridge in place so you do not need to use any glue or adhesive.\\nWarnings\\nWear safety glasses while you work with power tools to protect your eyes.\\nUse caution while working with saws and power tools so you don’t accidentally hurt yourself.\\nBending irons get extremely hot, so be sure not to touch them or else you will severely burn yourself.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Violins are the smallest stringed instrument in an orchestra and can be used for a wide variety of musical styles. While you can always buy a violin from a music store, making your own can create a unique sound and make your instrument one of a kind. Building a homemade violin can be a complicated and intricate process that requires a lot of time and patience, but it can be rewarding to play an instrument that you made yourself!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Rib Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Trace a violin mould template onto a piece of wood that’s 400 × 250 × 12 mm (15.75 × 9.84 × 0.47 in).\", \"描述\": \"Look online for templates for 4/4 violins, which are the standard sizes for adults, and print one out at full size so you can work off of it. Make sure the template you find has 8 large holes in the middle of the outline or else you won’t know where to cut. Transfer the outline directly onto a piece of plywood that’s 400 × 250 × 12 mm (15.75 × 9.84 × 0.47 in), making sure you’re as accurate as possible or else your finished violin may not fit together well.\\nAny type of plywood works for making your mould template since it won’t be included in the final instrument.\\nYou can choose a template for a smaller violin, such as a 1/2 or 3/4, if you want to make one for a younger violinist.\\nViolin templates may vary slightly in size and decoration, so pick a template that you like to work from.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the rib mould out from your wood with a scroll saw.\", \"描述\": \"Put on safety glasses before you start working with your saw to protect your eyes. Turn on your scroll saw and carefully guide the blade around the outline for your template. Make sure the saw blade stays on the outside of your outline so you don’t remove too much material from the template. Work slowly around the edge of the entire outline until you're able to remove the piece from the block of wood.\\nIf you aren’t able to remove all of the excess wood with your saw, use a sander or file to shape it to size.\\nBe mindful of where the saw blade is at all times so you don’t accidentally cut yourself while you’re working.\\nTry to avoid cutting sharp turns continuously when you're using a scroll saw. Instead, cut one angle and then cut another angle separately. You might find that backing out of your current cut and approaching from a different angle is helpful when cutting fine turns or small details.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a drill press to remove the holes from the middle of the template.\", \"描述\": \"Change the drill bit in the press to one that’s the same diameter as the circles on your template mould. Set the template on a drill press so the bit lines up with one of the circular holes you need to cut. Pull the handle down on the drill press to slowly cut through the hole. Let go of the handle to raise the drill bit and adjust your mould. Continue drilling all of the holes on the mould.\\nIf you don’t have access to a drill press, then you can use a regular handheld drill with your largest drill bit to make a starting hole, and then use your scroll saw to cut along the holes’ outlines.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Shape the wooden C-blocks to fit into the mould’s mortises.\", \"描述\": \"The mould has 6 different mortises on the top, bottom, and sides of the template that are used to hold the ribs, or sides, of the violin in place. Use blocks of wood and cut them to size using a bandsaw or scroll saw. Sand the edges of the blocks with 220-grit sandpaper so they can fit into the mortises on the mould perfectly.\\nThe size of your top C-block is 32 by 50 by 22 millimetres (1.26 × 1.97 × 0.87 in).\\nThe bottom C-block will be 34 by 46 by 20 millimetres (1.34 × 1.81 × 0.79 in).\\nThe upper side C-blocks are 33 by 25 by 28 millimetres (1.30 × 0.98 × 1.10 in).\\nThe lower side C-blocks will be 33 by 25 by 28 millimetres (1.30 × 0.98 × 1.10 in).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Glue the C-blocks to the mortises of the mould.\", \"描述\": \"Spread a thin layer of wood glue on the longest side of each mortise on the template mould using your finger or a small flat paintbrush. Press the C-blocks into each of the mortises where they fit. Secure C-clamps onto the mould and blocks so one end of each clamp is in one of the holes you drilled. Leave the C-blocks clamped for at least 24 hours so the glue has time to set.\\nOnly apply glue to one side of each mortise or else you won’t be able to easily remove it later.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Chisel the C-blocks on the side to match the corners of your violin template.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the template you originally traced on top of the mould so you know where the corners on each side of the violin lie. Draw the corners onto the C-blocks glued to each side of the mould so you know what you need to cut off. Use a chisel to cut through the blocks so the C-shape on either side of the violin has a curved edge. Sand any rough edges with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth them down.\\nDon’t chisel the outer side of the C-block yet since it will help hold the ribs in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut out the rib pieces of your violin so they’re 34 mm (1.3 in) wide.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a flexible sheet of maple wood that’s at least 334 millimetres (13.1 in) long to make your ribs. Run the sheet through a bandsaw or a circular saw to cut the pieces until they’re 34 millimetres (1.3 in) wide. Cut out 5-6 strips of wood to use for the ribs so you have enough to bend and shape around the outline of your template.\\nIf you want to know exactly how long your strips need to be, measure around the edge of your mould with a flexible tape measure so you know the circumference of the instrument.\\nMaple is the standard wood that violins are made from, but you can use other hardwoods if you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Plane the ribs so they’re 1 ⁄2 mm (0.059 in) thick.\", \"描述\": \"Clamp the strips of wood to a flat work surface, and guide a wood plane on top of each strip to shave off some of their thickness. Continue planing each strip, checking the thickness after each pass until you reach 1 ⁄2 mm (0.059 in). Be careful not to take too much material off of the ribs since your instrument won’t be as sturdy otherwise.\\nUse a manual planer rather than an electric one since it will give you better control over the thickness.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Soak the C-rib pieces in water for 2-3 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"The C-rib pieces are the shortest pieces that fit into the C-shaped sections on the sides of your violin. Submerge the strips under cold water so they can absorb some and become more flexible (and won’t burn when you start bending them). After 2-3 minutes, pull the strips out and shake off the excess water.\\nOnly soak 2 of the strips you cut at first so the other pieces don’t get too waterlogged.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Bend the C-ribs into shape using a bending iron.\", \"描述\": \"A bending iron is a round piece of heated metal used to heat wood and bend it into curves. Heat the bending iron to 200–250 °C (392–482 °F) before you start bending the ribs or else they may break. Guide the rib pieces over the bending iron and shape them around the curve on the iron. Try to get the curve close to matching with the C-shape curves on the sides of the violin mould.\\nYou can buy a bending iron from your local hardware store or online.\\nWear gloves while working with a bending iron since it’s hot and will cause the wood to heat up as well.\\nBe careful around the bending iron since it will cause severe burns if you touch it.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Glue and clamp the C-ribs onto the mould.\", \"描述\": \"Guide the bent rib pieces into the C-shaped curves on the sides of the template mould and fit them tightly against the edge. Lift the ends of the ribs and place a small amount of glue on the C-blocks on the tops and bottoms of each curve. Press the rib pieces against the glue and place a flat piece of scrap wood between the C-blocks to hold the ribs in place. Clamp the scrap wood to the mould and let the glue dry for 24 hours.\\nIf your rib pieces are too long for the curves, cut them down carefully with a utility knife so they extend 1–2 millimetres (0.039–0.079 in) past the points of the corner.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Cut the C-blocks so they’re flush with the corners.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the clamps from your mould so you can easily cut off pieces from your C-blocks. Use a wood gouge or chisel to shape the C-blocks into the corners of the violin. Continue shaping the C-blocks until the edges are flush with the rest of your template mould and sand them if you need to smooth them out.\\nBe careful not to remove too much material from the C-blocks or else you may ruin the shape of your violin.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Bend and glue the top and bottom ribs into place.\", \"描述\": \"Heat the bending iron to 200–250 °C (392–482 °F) while you soak the rib pieces for the top and bottom of your violin. Guide the rib pieces along the bending iron to shape them as closely as you can to the shape of the violin. Set the ribs along the edge of the template mould and press them tight against the side. Apply a small amount of glue to the ends and centers of the ribs so they adhere to the C-blocks. Clamp the ribs in place and let them dry for at least 24 hours so the glue has time to set.\\nYou may need to use curved pieces of scrap wood to hold the ribs in position so they don’t dry crooked.\\nYou can either use 1 or 2 different rib pieces for both the top and bottom curves of the violin. It may be easier to shape 2 rib pieces than a single piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Pop the ribs out from the mould once the glue has set.\", \"描述\": \"As soon as the glue is completely dry, undo the clamps and carefully try to pull the entire rib structure up and off of the mould. If it sticks in places, carefully shimmy a small chisel between the mould and the ribs so you can pry it out. Eventually, the ribs and the C-blocks will come free from the mould.\\nDon’t try to force the rib structure out of the mould since you could break the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Round the inside edges of the C-blocks with a file.\", \"描述\": \"Place the edge of a file on the inside edges of the C-blocks and carefully sand them down. Work the C-blocks on the side corners of the violin so they make a smooth curve that follows the angle of the rib pieces. Round the corners on the bottom and top pieces so they aren’t sharp.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Carving the Front of the Violin\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Trace 2 mm (0.079 in) around the rib structure onto a piece of wood.\", \"描述\": \"Set your rib structure onto a piece of maple that’s at least 375 by 220 by 20 millimetres (14.76 × 8.66 × 0.79 in). Place a pencil along the edge of the rib structure and follow along the outline closely so your front piece is the right size. Hold your pencil at the same angle for the entire outline so it doesn’t affect your tracing.\\nMake sure the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the violin or else it won’t be as sturdy.\\nIf you didn’t use maple for your rib pieces, then use the same wood for the front of your violin so it looks cohesive.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the shape for the front of your violin using a bandsaw.\", \"描述\": \"Wear safety glasses before starting on the bandsaw so you don’t hurt yourself. Guide the piece of wood through the blade of the saw to cut around the outside of the outline. Don’t cut right on your line or else the front piece will be too small when you try to attach it. Work your way around the sides of the piece until it’s completely cut out.\\nUse caution while working with a bandsaw so you don’t accidentally cut yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gouge the outer border to a thickness of 4 ⁄2 mm (0.18 in).\", \"描述\": \"A wood gouge is a tool to remove and smooth out pieces of wood. Measure in from the edge of the front piece about 7 millimetres (0.28 in) so you know how much you need to gouge. Use a wood gouge to flatten the edge around the violin to make the platform, which is where the violin connects to the ribs. Continue flattening the edge of the front piece until it’s only 4 millimetres (0.16 in) thick.\\nYou can buy a wood gouge from your local hardware store.\\nDon’t remove too much material or else you could break through the bottom of the front piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Carve a channel on the front piece that’s 3 ⁄2 mm (0.14 in) from the edges.\", \"描述\": \"Use a chisel or a wood gouge to carve the channel out of the violin. Measure in from the edge by 3 ⁄2 millimetres (0.14 in) and cut it to a depth of 2 millimetres (0.079 in). Work completely around the edge of the front piece so the channel goes completely around it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Bend strips of purfling with your bending iron.\", \"描述\": \"Purfling is a decorative wooden border around the edge of your violin that also helps support the instrument. Heat up your bending iron to 200 °C (392 °F) and soak the strips in water for 2-3 minutes. Guide the purfling around the curves of the bending iron so they’re close to the curves in the channel you carved.\\nIn total, you will need about 500 millimetres (20 in) of purfling for the front of your violin.\\nWear gloves while working with the bending iron so you don’t burn yourself.\\nThe bending iron is extremely hot and will cause severe burns if you touch it.\\nYou can buy purfling strips from a music shop or online.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Glue purfling strips into the channel you just carved.\", \"描述\": \"Starting from the corners on the sides of the violin, apply a small amount of hot glue into the channel and guide the purfling into the shape. Press the purfling into the channel so it has firm contact with the glue and dries in place. If you need to, use a small hammer to tap the purfling into the channel.\\nYou do not need to clamp the purfling in place since hot glue sets quickly.\\nDon’t apply hot glue directly on the purfling since the glue could cause it to warp.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Use a wood scraper to arch the violin along the center line.\", \"描述\": \"Guide a wood scraper down the length of the violin to remove the excess wood that’s on top. Make smooth slopes coming from the center of the violin to the flat edge around the outside you already carved. Make sure the highest point of the arch is about 16–18 millimetres (0.63–0.71 in) up from the bottom of the piece.\\nAs you start working on more detailed sections of the violin, switch to smaller hand planes so you can be more accurate with how much wood you remove.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Flip the front of the violin over to carve out the backside.\", \"描述\": \"Flip the wood over so the arched side is face-down. Clamp the front piece in place so you can easily hollow out the bottom of the violin. Leave the area that’s 7 millimetres (0.28 in) from the edge flat and use a wood scraper or gouge to hollow out the center of the violin. Continue removing material until it’s between 4–6 millimetres (0.16–0.24 in) thick.\\nBe gentle while working with your violin since you could break the wood if you use too much force.\\nMake sure you use new, sharp tools to make cutting the wood easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Cut out the f-holes for your violin.\", \"描述\": \"The f-holes are the hollowed-out sections where the sound of the violin comes from. Flip the front piece over so the arched side is face-up again, and position the f-holes so the top of each one is 42 millimetres (1.7 in) from one another and about 150 millimetres (5.9 in) from the top of the piece. Use a handheld drill to bore through the spots where you’re placing the f-holes and then use a scroll saw to cut out the shape.\\nYou can print out templates for f-holes so they’re already positioned correctly and so you don’t need to draw them freehand.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Glue a bass bar onto the backside of the front piece.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the front piece over so the hollowed-out side is face-up. Cut a piece of spruce to 350 by 20 by 8 millimetres (13.78 × 0.79 × 0.31 in) and plane the sides so they’re parallel with one another. Place the bass bar so it’s 12 millimetres (0.47 in) to the right of the center line of the instrument. Glue the bass bar in place with wood glue and clamp it in place for 24 hours. When the glue is set, you can remove the clamp.\\nThe bass bar helps the sound inside your violin resonate to make a more pleasant tone.\\nSpruce is the traditional wood to use for a violin, but you can use other hardwoods if you want.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Shaping the Violin Back\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Trace 2 mm (0.079 in) around the rib structure onto a flat piece of wood.\", \"描述\": \"Place your rib structure on a piece of wood that’s 375 by 220 by 20 millimetres (14.76 × 8.66 × 0.79 in), and make sure the wood grain follows the length of the mould. Put the point of your pencil against the edge of the rib structure and slowly trace around the outline so you know what shape to cut out from your wood.\\nDon’t change the angle that you’re holding your pencil since it could affect the size and shape of your outline.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Draw a platform in the top center of your outline for the neck button.\", \"描述\": \"The neck piece of your violin directly connects to the bottom of the instrument, so you need to include a platform at the top, also known as the button. Use a straightedge to draw a 22 mm (0.87 in) line that intersects the center line of the violin. Extend straight lines down from the ends of the one you just drew so they connect with the outline you traced.\\nMake sure the button is symmetrical across the centerline or else the violin neck will be crooked when you place it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the bottom piece out using a bandsaw.\", \"描述\": \"Wear safety glasses while you work so you don’t get anything in your eyes. Guide the piece of wood through the bandsaw, slowly working around the curves of the instrument. Make sure you cut outside of the outline you drew so you don’t remove too much material from the back piece.\\nIf you can’t cut out the details around the corners with a bandsaw, then use a file or a scroll saw instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Carve a channel around the outside border of the back piece.\", \"描述\": \"Measure 3 ⁄2 millimetres (0.14 in) in from the edge of the back piece and use a gouge to cut a channel into the back. Make sure the channel is about 2 millimetres (0.079 in) thick and deep so you can easily fit the purfling strips into them later.\\nWork slowly so you don’t accidentally remove too material, or else the purfling won’t have a tight fit.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Bend and glue purfling into the channel you just carved.\", \"描述\": \"Heat your bending iron to 200 °C (392 °F) and soak the purfling strips in water for 2-3 minutes so they don’t burn. Guide the purfling strips around the curves of the bending iron so they closely resemble the channel you carved out. Starting in the corners of the instrument, apply hot glue in the channel and tap the purfling into place. Let the glue set completely before continuing.\\nYou will need about 500 millimetres (20 in) of purfling for the back of your violin.\\nUse the same purfling you used on the front piece so your instrument looks cohesive.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Carve the back piece of your violin so it arches in the center.\", \"描述\": \"Use a wood plane or scraper to curve the wood on the back piece. Keep the center of the instrument 16 millimetres (0.63 in) tall and smoothly arch the wood toward the edges, which you can plane down to 6 millimetres (0.24 in) thick. As you start working on smaller detailed areas of the violin, switch to smaller hand planes or a thumb plane to control how much wood you’re removing.\\nTry to get the back of the violin as smooth as possible with your hand plane so it has a gentle curve.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Flip the back piece over and hollow out the wood.\", \"描述\": \"Set the back piece on your work surface so the arched side is face-down. Clamp the back piece in place and use a wood scraper to hollow out the bottom. Keep the edges flat so you can easily attach them to the ribs later, but remove enough wood in the middle so that the back piece is only 4–6 millimetres (0.16–0.24 in) thick.\\nDon’t use too much pressure or remove too much material since you could break the wood or affect the sound of the final instrument.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Carving the Neck\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Trace a template for the violin’s neck onto a block of wood.\", \"描述\": \"Use a template for the neck that matches the body of the violin you’re making. Print out the templates for the profile and top-down view of the neck, and transfer the outlines to a block of wood that’s at least 250 by 42 by 55 millimetres (9.8 × 1.7 × 2.2 in). Make sure the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the length of the neck or else it won’t be as strong.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill through the peg hole locations on your template.\", \"描述\": \"Look where the 4 holes on the side of the violin’s neck line up and find a drill bit that’s the same size. Set the wood block underneath a drill press and make sure the hole lines up with the drill bit. Pull the handle on the drill press to cut through the wood. Once you drill through the wood, ease the handle back up to pull the drill bit out. Repeat the process for the other 3 holes along the neck.\\nWear safety glasses while working with a drill press so you don’t get any sawdust in your eyes.\\nIf you don’t have a drill press, use a handheld drill with a matching drill bit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut out your template from the block of wood.\", \"描述\": \"Use a bandsaw to cut out the main shape of the neck. Keep your cuts outside of the lines you drew so you don’t cut the neck too small. Start by working from the profile view so you can cut out the general shape of the neck first. Then work from the outline for the top-down view so the neck is the correct thickness.\\nYou may need to redraw either your top-down or profile outline as you cut off more wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Carve out the scroll and peg box with a chisel.\", \"描述\": \"Work with a gouge and chisel to detail your neck and remove any wood you couldn’t get off with your saw. Carve out a rectangular shape between the holes you drilled to make the peg box, which is where you’ll place your tuning pegs and strings. Then add details to the scroll, which is spiraled part at the end of the neck. Follow your template closely to remove the excess wood.\\nThe peg box is usually 72 millimetres (2.8 in) long and 19 ⁄2 millimetres (0.77 in) wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the fingerboard out from a piece of ebony.\", \"描述\": \"Use a block of ebony that’s about 280 by 50 by 15 millimetres (11.02 × 1.97 × 0.59 in) to use for your fingerboard. Draw the outline from a template onto your piece of ebony so the bottom edge of the fingerboard is wider than the top edge. Use a bandsaw to cut through the ebony along your outlines and arch the fingerboard so it’s 10 millimetres (0.39 in) thick at the tallest point. Hollow out the bottom at the wide end of the fingerboard so it’s arched and the wood is 6 millimetres (0.24 in) thick.\\nEbony is the traditional material used for the neckboard, but you can use any type of hardwood if you need to.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Glue the fingerboard to the neck.\", \"描述\": \"Spread your wood glue on the bottom side of the fingerboard with your finger or a small paintbrush so it has an even application. Press the fingerboard in the center of the neck and clamp it in 3 different places along the length so it adheres to the neck. Let the glue set for 24 hours before removing the clamps and continuing your work.\\nPut cushions or something soft between the wood and your clamps if you don’t want to leave any marks or scratches on the fingerboard or neck.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Body\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Clamp the back piece to the rib structure with multiple spool clamps.\", \"描述\": \"Set the rib structure on a flat work surface and place the back piece on top of it. Carefully line up the edges of the back piece with the edges of the rib structure and clamp them in place. Use about 32 spool clamps total so you can apply even pressure around the sides of the back piece and rib structure.\\nYou can find a diagram of where to place your spool clamps here: http://www.makingtheviolin.com/Fitting%20the%20back.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply your glue between the back piece and the ribs with a knife.\", \"描述\": \"Take off 2-3 clamps near one of the corners of your violin so you can apply the glue. Dip the blade of a parting knife into the glue you’re using and slide the blade between the rib structure and the back piece. The glue will transfer to the edge of the ribs and adhere to the back piece. Reclamp the area, making sure everything is still aligned.\\nPull the rib structure and back piece slightly apart with your hands if you can’t fit the knife easily between them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Work your way around the back piece and let the glue dry.\", \"描述\": \"Continue gluing the rest of the corners by removing clamps, applying the glue with your knife, and then again clamping them. Once the corners are glued, work around the curves of the instrument so the glue holds the pieces together. Once you’ve applied glue around the entire back piece, let the glue set for at least 24 hours before removing your clamps.\\nBefore you put the clamps back on, make sure the back piece is still lined up with the edges of the rib structure so you don’t accidentally warp the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat the process for attaching the front side.\", \"描述\": \"After the back piece is attached, line up the front piece on the opposite side of the rib structure and clamp it in place so it doesn’t move around. Apply glue to the corners first, and slowly work around the curves until it’s completely glued. Tighten your clamps and let the glue set for at least 24 hours so it can completely dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut out a mortise in the top piece and ribs for the neck piece.\", \"描述\": \"The bottom of the neck piece connects to the button you made on the bottom piece, but it also cuts into the top piece of the instrument slightly. Dry-fit the neck into place and mark the thickness on the front piece and rib structure. Use a utility knife or a sharp chisel to cut out the rib material and edge of the front piece.\\nWork slowly while you’re cutting out the mortise since you could damage the rest of the violin.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Glue the neck piece to the violin body.\", \"描述\": \"Apply a layer of glue to the mortise, the button on the back piece, and the neck joint. Press the neck piece into place and make sure the center lines up with the middle of the instrument. Clamp the neck in place and let it dry for at least 24 hours so the glue has time to set.\\nWipe off any excess glue so it doesn’t dry on the violin’s body and cause any damage.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Apply 2-3 coats of varnish onto the violin body.\", \"描述\": \"Use an oil-based varnish for your violin to change the color of the wood and make it shiny. Use a small flat paintbrush to paint a thin coat of the varnish onto the maple pieces of your violin. Wait for the first coat of varnish to dry for at least 24 hours before applying a second coat. You can add as many coats of the varnish as you want to change the instrument’s color.\\nDon’t apply varnish to the fingerboard since it could affect the overall sound of the instrument.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Adding the Peripherals\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the tuning pegs in the holes you drilled on the neck.\", \"描述\": \"The tuning pegs tighten the strings and are what you use to tune the instrument. Place the pegs for the A-string and E-string in the first hole, which is the top one, and the third hole from the right side of the instrument. Put the pegs for the D-string and G-string in the second and fourth holes from the left side and tap them into place so they go completely through the peg box.\\nYou can buy tuning pegs online or from music supply stores.\\nMake sure the pegs for the correct strings are in the right place, or else your strings won’t sit correctly on the instrument.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put the soundpost inside of the violin.\", \"描述\": \"The soundpost is a small dowel placed inside the violin that helps the instrument resonate. Put the soundpost in the jaws of a soundpost setter and guide it through the f-hole on the front of your violin. Move the soundpost into the center of the violin and make sure it fits tightly between the top and bottom pieces of the violin. Let go of the soundpost and pull the setting tool back out.\\nYou can buy soundposts and soundpost setting tools from music stores or online.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the tailpiece to the bottom of the violin.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a 6 mm (0.24 in) hole in the center of the ribs on the end of your violin. Screw an end pin into the hole so you can hook the tailpiece around it. Set the tailpiece against the bottom edge of the violin so it lines up with your fingerboard and hook the looping metal piece around the end pin to secure it.\\nYou can buy a tailpiece from a music store or online.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put the strings on so they stretch between the tailpiece and tuning pegs.\", \"描述\": \"Place your strings in the proper tuning pegs and start winding them to add a small amount of tension to them. Place the other ends of the strings in the base of the tailpiece so you can secure them in place. Tighten the strings until they feel taut across the instrument.\\nFrom left to right, the strings should be G, D, A, and E.\\nYou can buy new violin strings from music stores or online.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Set the bridge for the violin underneath the strings near the end of the fingerboard.\", \"描述\": \"The bridge supports the strings, lifts them away from the body of the violin, and helps them resonate throughout the instrument. Slide the bridge into position about 50 millimetres (2.0 in) from the end of the fingerboard and stand it up so the arched side touches the strings. Position the feet of the bridge at a 90-degree angle to the body of the violin.\\nYou can buy violin bridges from music stores or online.\\nThe tension of the strings will hold the bridge in place so you do not need to use any glue or adhesive.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Wear safety glasses while you work with power tools to protect your eyes.\\n\", \"Use caution while working with saws and power tools so you don’t accidentally hurt yourself.\\n\", \"Bending irons get extremely hot, so be sure not to touch them or else you will severely burn yourself.\\n\"]}]}}",
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wikihow
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How to Build a Vivarium
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1. Choosing Your Featured Animal and Enclosure
1-1. Pick a single species to feature in your future vivarium.
The featured animal species is the biggest variable and most challenging component of establishing and maintaining a vivarium. By limiting your vivarium to a single species, you’ll make things that much easier on yourself.
Only experienced vivarium builders who know how to set up and maintain exceptionally large enclosures should try to handle more than one species in a single vivarium.
Talk to other vivarium enthusiasts to get recommendations on species choices.
Good species options include corn snakes, bearded dragons, poison dart frogs, monkey frogs, anoles, geckos, pygmy chameleons, green tree pythons, and emerald tree boas, among others.
1-2. Plan your vivarium around the specific needs of your chosen species.
Always build your vivarium to suit your featured creature, not the other way around. That way, you can recreate—as much as possible—the ideal natural habitat for that species. In turn, your chosen species will live a healthier and happier life in the vivarium.
Use online resources and the knowledge of any vivarium experts you know to plan out the ideal habitat for your chosen species.
1-3. Choose a large glass tank as the best enclosure option.
In most cases, glass is the best option for a vivarium enclosure. It aids in moisture and temperature control, and is great for viewing inside the vivarium. If you need a more lightweight option, however, choose a vivarium enclosure made of sturdy plastic materials.
The ideal size of the enclosure depends on the featured species. In most cases, though, aim for an enclosure in the 50–100 US gal (190–380 L) range. A glass tank in this size range can cost $50-$200 USD.
Cages make poor vivariums because of the difficulty in maintaining the proper temperature and humidity.
2. Adding Layers to the Vivarium Floor
2-1. Put down a drainage layer of store-bought material (option 1).
Shop at pet retailers or online and choose a vivarium drainage layer material—it’s often made up of small, lightweight plastic pellets or balls. Pour a 2.5–3 in (6.4–7.6 cm) layer in the bottom of the enclosure.
As the name indicates, excess water in the enclosure will drain down into this bottom layer, preventing oversaturation of the earthen layers above.
You can use aquarium pebbles instead, but your vivarium enclosure will be substantially heavier.
2-2. Create a “false bottom” with hardware store materials (option 2).
Buy about 12 PVC pipe connectors that are cylindrical in shape and about 3 in (7.6 cm) in length. Stand them upright and spread them over the floor of the empty enclosure. Then, cut to size and place a single layer of egg-crate material on top of the upright pipe connectors.
Egg crate material is usually made of white plastic, about 1 in (2.5 cm) thick, and made up of a grid of hollow squares. You can find it online, or at hardware stores or some pet retailers.
The pipe connectors serve as piers that create a gap between the bottom of the enclosure and the underside of the egg crate material. Excess water will filter down into this void.
2-3. Add a layer of a mesh fabric screen separator.
Choose a screening material that lets water and air pass through but blocks fine dirt particles. You can use weed-blocking landscaping fabric if you wish, but it’s better to buy a fabric screening material made specifically for vivariums—look for it online or in larger pet stores.
Your choice of screening material is especially important if you’re adding microfauna (tiny organisms that will help keep the vivarium clean) to the enclosure. Vivarium-specific fabrics will let them pass through, while landscaping fabrics may not.
The screening material comes in rolls that you can cut to size with scissors.
If you're not using a screening material marketed specifically for vivariums, make sure it's labeled as non-toxic.
2-4. Use a tried-and-true mix for your substrate layer.
Don’t just use potting soil, compost, coconut fiber, or another single material. Instead, search online and consult with knowledgeable friends about the best substrate material for your particular vivarium. Lay 2.5–3 in (6.4–7.6 cm) of your chosen substrate on top of the screening fabric.
One of the most common vivarium substrates is called “ABG substrate” and contains the following mix: 2 parts tree fern fiber, 1 part peat (or, in some cases, coconut fiber), 1 part charcoal, 1 part sphagnum, and 2 parts orchid bark.
While you can mix up the substrate yourself, it’s easier to buy pre-mixed substrate online or at a pet retailer.
Single-material substrates (like just potting soil) lack the nutrient diversity and varying textures that create a healthy and welcoming substrate for plant and animal life in a vivarium.
2-5. Apply 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) of “leaf litter” on top.
For the top layer of your vivarium floor, use “leaf litter”—that is, dried leaves from tropical plants. You can buy leaf litter at retailers that sell vivarium substrate materials.
Some vivarium enthusiasts prefer to use moss as the top layer for aesthetic purposes. However, leaf litter gives a more natural look and provides shading and hiding spots for the animals inside the enclosure. You can use a combination of moss and leaf litter if desired.
3. Completing the Environment
3-1. Create a background, if desired, for aesthetic purposes.
Some vivarium enthusiasts like to adhere a natural-looking background to the back wall of the enclosure. In many cases, this is done by using silicone adhesive to stick on pieces of rigid foam made to look like rocks, tree limbs, and so on. Such background materials can usually be purchased at retailers that sell other vivarium supplies.
You also can cut and decorate background materials out of rigid foam yourself. Consult with other vivarium enthusiasts for advice on the best materials to use and procedures to follow.
A background can help conceal mechanical equipment (for lighting, heating, moisture, etc.) placed behind the enclosure.
3-2. Install a moisture system based on your chosen species’ needs.
Most vivarium-suited species require humidity levels of at least 60%, and often over 75%. Check with vivarium equipment suppliers to find the best moisture control system for your chosen species and enclosure setup.
Your setup may include, for instance, a humidity control monitor and a misting sprayer to add moisture as needed.
You can help to maintain the right humidity level by using an enclosure lid that is part glass and part screening. In most cases, a top that is 75% glass and 25% screening will help maintain 60%-75% humidity inside.
You may also want to buy and install a vivarium drainage system that uses PVC pipe drain lines to help you rapidly reduce the moisture level. However, in most cases, it's sufficient to adjust the humidity manually by increasing or decreasing the amount of screening on the enclosure lid.
3-3. Control the temperature based on your chosen species.
There are numerous heating options for vivariums, and it’s usually best to use a combination of them to get the proper balance of conditions inside the enclosure. Make sure you know both the ideal air and surface temperatures for your chosen species, and use thermostat- and timer-controlled heating elements to maintain the proper ranges.
For example, you might use heating lamps to maintain the proper air temperature, and an under-tank heating mat to create a higher surface temperature in one section of the tank—this creates a basking area for your chosen species.
As with humidity control, proper temperature control is vital. Consult with experts to get the right equipment for your vivarium setup.
3-4. Use bright, mid-warmth lighting that simulates day and night.
For aesthetic purposes, it’s best to go with lighting that’s in the 5000-6500 kelvin range, which is in the mid-range of the warm-to-cool lighting scale. In terms of light intensity, it’s very difficult to make your vivarium too bright for the health of the life inside it—so choose lighting that makes it easy to see everything inside the vivarium.
Always make sure you use timers to keep your lighting on a day-night routine. Also make sure there is adequate shading—created by plant life, leaf litter, and other materials inside the enclosure—so the creatures inside can get relief from the lighting when desired.
As with moisture and temperature control systems, a vivarium novice should consult with experts and buy a lighting system from a vivarium supply retailer. Only try to design your own lighting system if you’re fully confident in your abilities.
4. Filling the Vivarium with Life
4-1. Add habitat-appropriate plants, but don’t overdo it.
It can be tempting to pack your vivarium with 20 or even 30 different plant species to add visual interest. However, a vivarium can quickly look overly cluttered this way, and it’s also easier to maintain an enclosure that has only around 8-12 different plant species.
Choose plants that are appropriate for the environmental conditions inside your vivarium, as well as for the featured species you’ve selected for it.
Consider buying a pre-selected plant mix from a vivarium supply retailer. This is easier than buying the mix of plants individually.
Follow the instructions for each plant type or plant mix for installing and maintaining the plants. In most cases, you’ll need to do very little once the plants become established in the vivarium.
4-2. Add microfauna to keep the vivarium naturally clean.
For most vivarium enthusiasts, the goal is to create an enclosure that is practically a self-sustaining habitat. To achieve this, microfauna—tiny critters that love to eat things like droppings, leaf decay, and mold—are essential. The most common microfauna options for vivariums are springtails and woodlice (also called isopods).
You can buy microfauna at vivarium supply retailers or online. Simply add the recommended amount to the enclosure once the proper environment is established.
So long as the proper environmental conditions are maintained, the microfauna will take care of themselves and you won't need to clean the vivarium so long as everything inside is healthy.
If any plants appear diseased, however, or if one of your featured creatures dies of a possible infection or disease, you'll have to remove everything from the vivarium, sanitize what can be salvaged and replace what can't be, and re-create the habitat.
4-3. Quarantine each chosen animal for 3 weeks.
Before adding your first animal or any subsequent creatures to the vivarium, you should isolate and observe them for illness for 3 weeks. Doing so helps prevent the introduction of unwanted bacteria or illnesses into the closed ecosystem.
For the quarantine period, set up a smaller enclosure with environmental conditions that match the vivarium as closely as possible. Your vivarium species supplier can help you get the necessary supplies for setting up a proper quarantine.
Check on the quarantined animals regularly, and know what signs of illness to watch for in that species. Do not introduce them to the vivarium if they display potential signs of illness.
4-4. Observe the animals closely for the first several days.
The first 3-7 days are usually the most critical for the adjustment of your featured species to the vivarium. Watch for any signs of illness or distress, and remove any animals that appear to be ill.
The care needs for the many vivarium-suited species varies widely, so it’s difficult to give anything more than very general care guidance. Make sure you know exactly what your featured species needs—in terms of things like food, water, environmental conditions, companionship, and so on—and make every effort to meet those needs in the vivarium.
With the proper setup, your vivarium will offer a spectacular display of flora and fauna in realistic habitat for years to come!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:14",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing Your Featured Animal and Enclosure\\n1-1. Pick a single species to feature in your future vivarium.\\nThe featured animal species is the biggest variable and most challenging component of establishing and maintaining a vivarium. By limiting your vivarium to a single species, you’ll make things that much easier on yourself.\\nOnly experienced vivarium builders who know how to set up and maintain exceptionally large enclosures should try to handle more than one species in a single vivarium.\\nTalk to other vivarium enthusiasts to get recommendations on species choices.\\nGood species options include corn snakes, bearded dragons, poison dart frogs, monkey frogs, anoles, geckos, pygmy chameleons, green tree pythons, and emerald tree boas, among others.\\n1-2. Plan your vivarium around the specific needs of your chosen species.\\nAlways build your vivarium to suit your featured creature, not the other way around. That way, you can recreate—as much as possible—the ideal natural habitat for that species. In turn, your chosen species will live a healthier and happier life in the vivarium.\\nUse online resources and the knowledge of any vivarium experts you know to plan out the ideal habitat for your chosen species.\\n1-3. Choose a large glass tank as the best enclosure option.\\nIn most cases, glass is the best option for a vivarium enclosure. It aids in moisture and temperature control, and is great for viewing inside the vivarium. If you need a more lightweight option, however, choose a vivarium enclosure made of sturdy plastic materials.\\nThe ideal size of the enclosure depends on the featured species. In most cases, though, aim for an enclosure in the 50–100 US gal (190–380 L) range. A glass tank in this size range can cost $50-$200 USD.\\nCages make poor vivariums because of the difficulty in maintaining the proper temperature and humidity.\\n2. Adding Layers to the Vivarium Floor\\n2-1. Put down a drainage layer of store-bought material (option 1).\\nShop at pet retailers or online and choose a vivarium drainage layer material—it’s often made up of small, lightweight plastic pellets or balls. Pour a 2.5–3 in (6.4–7.6 cm) layer in the bottom of the enclosure.\\nAs the name indicates, excess water in the enclosure will drain down into this bottom layer, preventing oversaturation of the earthen layers above.\\nYou can use aquarium pebbles instead, but your vivarium enclosure will be substantially heavier.\\n2-2. Create a “false bottom” with hardware store materials (option 2).\\nBuy about 12 PVC pipe connectors that are cylindrical in shape and about 3 in (7.6 cm) in length. Stand them upright and spread them over the floor of the empty enclosure. Then, cut to size and place a single layer of egg-crate material on top of the upright pipe connectors.\\nEgg crate material is usually made of white plastic, about 1 in (2.5 cm) thick, and made up of a grid of hollow squares. You can find it online, or at hardware stores or some pet retailers.\\nThe pipe connectors serve as piers that create a gap between the bottom of the enclosure and the underside of the egg crate material. Excess water will filter down into this void.\\n2-3. Add a layer of a mesh fabric screen separator.\\nChoose a screening material that lets water and air pass through but blocks fine dirt particles. You can use weed-blocking landscaping fabric if you wish, but it’s better to buy a fabric screening material made specifically for vivariums—look for it online or in larger pet stores.\\nYour choice of screening material is especially important if you’re adding microfauna (tiny organisms that will help keep the vivarium clean) to the enclosure. Vivarium-specific fabrics will let them pass through, while landscaping fabrics may not.\\nThe screening material comes in rolls that you can cut to size with scissors.\\nIf you're not using a screening material marketed specifically for vivariums, make sure it's labeled as non-toxic.\\n2-4. Use a tried-and-true mix for your substrate layer.\\nDon’t just use potting soil, compost, coconut fiber, or another single material. Instead, search online and consult with knowledgeable friends about the best substrate material for your particular vivarium. Lay 2.5–3 in (6.4–7.6 cm) of your chosen substrate on top of the screening fabric.\\nOne of the most common vivarium substrates is called “ABG substrate” and contains the following mix: 2 parts tree fern fiber, 1 part peat (or, in some cases, coconut fiber), 1 part charcoal, 1 part sphagnum, and 2 parts orchid bark.\\nWhile you can mix up the substrate yourself, it’s easier to buy pre-mixed substrate online or at a pet retailer.\\nSingle-material substrates (like just potting soil) lack the nutrient diversity and varying textures that create a healthy and welcoming substrate for plant and animal life in a vivarium.\\n2-5. Apply 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) of “leaf litter” on top.\\nFor the top layer of your vivarium floor, use “leaf litter”—that is, dried leaves from tropical plants. You can buy leaf litter at retailers that sell vivarium substrate materials.\\nSome vivarium enthusiasts prefer to use moss as the top layer for aesthetic purposes. However, leaf litter gives a more natural look and provides shading and hiding spots for the animals inside the enclosure. You can use a combination of moss and leaf litter if desired.\\n3. Completing the Environment\\n3-1. Create a background, if desired, for aesthetic purposes.\\nSome vivarium enthusiasts like to adhere a natural-looking background to the back wall of the enclosure. In many cases, this is done by using silicone adhesive to stick on pieces of rigid foam made to look like rocks, tree limbs, and so on. Such background materials can usually be purchased at retailers that sell other vivarium supplies.\\nYou also can cut and decorate background materials out of rigid foam yourself. Consult with other vivarium enthusiasts for advice on the best materials to use and procedures to follow.\\nA background can help conceal mechanical equipment (for lighting, heating, moisture, etc.) placed behind the enclosure.\\n3-2. Install a moisture system based on your chosen species’ needs.\\nMost vivarium-suited species require humidity levels of at least 60%, and often over 75%. Check with vivarium equipment suppliers to find the best moisture control system for your chosen species and enclosure setup.\\nYour setup may include, for instance, a humidity control monitor and a misting sprayer to add moisture as needed.\\nYou can help to maintain the right humidity level by using an enclosure lid that is part glass and part screening. In most cases, a top that is 75% glass and 25% screening will help maintain 60%-75% humidity inside.\\nYou may also want to buy and install a vivarium drainage system that uses PVC pipe drain lines to help you rapidly reduce the moisture level. However, in most cases, it's sufficient to adjust the humidity manually by increasing or decreasing the amount of screening on the enclosure lid.\\n3-3. Control the temperature based on your chosen species.\\nThere are numerous heating options for vivariums, and it’s usually best to use a combination of them to get the proper balance of conditions inside the enclosure. Make sure you know both the ideal air and surface temperatures for your chosen species, and use thermostat- and timer-controlled heating elements to maintain the proper ranges.\\nFor example, you might use heating lamps to maintain the proper air temperature, and an under-tank heating mat to create a higher surface temperature in one section of the tank—this creates a basking area for your chosen species.\\nAs with humidity control, proper temperature control is vital. Consult with experts to get the right equipment for your vivarium setup.\\n3-4. Use bright, mid-warmth lighting that simulates day and night.\\nFor aesthetic purposes, it’s best to go with lighting that’s in the 5000-6500 kelvin range, which is in the mid-range of the warm-to-cool lighting scale. In terms of light intensity, it’s very difficult to make your vivarium too bright for the health of the life inside it—so choose lighting that makes it easy to see everything inside the vivarium.\\nAlways make sure you use timers to keep your lighting on a day-night routine. Also make sure there is adequate shading—created by plant life, leaf litter, and other materials inside the enclosure—so the creatures inside can get relief from the lighting when desired.\\nAs with moisture and temperature control systems, a vivarium novice should consult with experts and buy a lighting system from a vivarium supply retailer. Only try to design your own lighting system if you’re fully confident in your abilities.\\n4. Filling the Vivarium with Life\\n4-1. Add habitat-appropriate plants, but don’t overdo it.\\nIt can be tempting to pack your vivarium with 20 or even 30 different plant species to add visual interest. However, a vivarium can quickly look overly cluttered this way, and it’s also easier to maintain an enclosure that has only around 8-12 different plant species.\\nChoose plants that are appropriate for the environmental conditions inside your vivarium, as well as for the featured species you’ve selected for it.\\nConsider buying a pre-selected plant mix from a vivarium supply retailer. This is easier than buying the mix of plants individually.\\nFollow the instructions for each plant type or plant mix for installing and maintaining the plants. In most cases, you’ll need to do very little once the plants become established in the vivarium.\\n4-2. Add microfauna to keep the vivarium naturally clean.\\nFor most vivarium enthusiasts, the goal is to create an enclosure that is practically a self-sustaining habitat. To achieve this, microfauna—tiny critters that love to eat things like droppings, leaf decay, and mold—are essential. The most common microfauna options for vivariums are springtails and woodlice (also called isopods).\\nYou can buy microfauna at vivarium supply retailers or online. Simply add the recommended amount to the enclosure once the proper environment is established.\\nSo long as the proper environmental conditions are maintained, the microfauna will take care of themselves and you won't need to clean the vivarium so long as everything inside is healthy.\\nIf any plants appear diseased, however, or if one of your featured creatures dies of a possible infection or disease, you'll have to remove everything from the vivarium, sanitize what can be salvaged and replace what can't be, and re-create the habitat.\\n4-3. Quarantine each chosen animal for 3 weeks.\\nBefore adding your first animal or any subsequent creatures to the vivarium, you should isolate and observe them for illness for 3 weeks. Doing so helps prevent the introduction of unwanted bacteria or illnesses into the closed ecosystem.\\nFor the quarantine period, set up a smaller enclosure with environmental conditions that match the vivarium as closely as possible. Your vivarium species supplier can help you get the necessary supplies for setting up a proper quarantine.\\nCheck on the quarantined animals regularly, and know what signs of illness to watch for in that species. Do not introduce them to the vivarium if they display potential signs of illness.\\n4-4. Observe the animals closely for the first several days.\\nThe first 3-7 days are usually the most critical for the adjustment of your featured species to the vivarium. Watch for any signs of illness or distress, and remove any animals that appear to be ill.\\nThe care needs for the many vivarium-suited species varies widely, so it’s difficult to give anything more than very general care guidance. Make sure you know exactly what your featured species needs—in terms of things like food, water, environmental conditions, companionship, and so on—and make every effort to meet those needs in the vivarium.\\nWith the proper setup, your vivarium will offer a spectacular display of flora and fauna in realistic habitat for years to come!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A vivarium is an enclosed, live ecosystem, containing flora and fauna that are typically tropical in nature. Done right, it can provide a burst of living beauty to your living room! Before building your vivarium, decide which single animal species you want to feature, then go about creating the appropriate environment for it. Lay down healthy, well-draining layers of ground cover, and buy and install moisture, heating, and lighting systems. After that, add appropriate plants and microfauna, then add your featured creature to complete your vivarium.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing Your Featured Animal and Enclosure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick a single species to feature in your future vivarium.\", \"描述\": \"The featured animal species is the biggest variable and most challenging component of establishing and maintaining a vivarium. By limiting your vivarium to a single species, you’ll make things that much easier on yourself.\\nOnly experienced vivarium builders who know how to set up and maintain exceptionally large enclosures should try to handle more than one species in a single vivarium.\\nTalk to other vivarium enthusiasts to get recommendations on species choices.\\nGood species options include corn snakes, bearded dragons, poison dart frogs, monkey frogs, anoles, geckos, pygmy chameleons, green tree pythons, and emerald tree boas, among others.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan your vivarium around the specific needs of your chosen species.\", \"描述\": \"Always build your vivarium to suit your featured creature, not the other way around. That way, you can recreate—as much as possible—the ideal natural habitat for that species. In turn, your chosen species will live a healthier and happier life in the vivarium.\\nUse online resources and the knowledge of any vivarium experts you know to plan out the ideal habitat for your chosen species.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose a large glass tank as the best enclosure option.\", \"描述\": \"In most cases, glass is the best option for a vivarium enclosure. It aids in moisture and temperature control, and is great for viewing inside the vivarium. If you need a more lightweight option, however, choose a vivarium enclosure made of sturdy plastic materials.\\nThe ideal size of the enclosure depends on the featured species. In most cases, though, aim for an enclosure in the 50–100 US gal (190–380 L) range. A glass tank in this size range can cost $50-$200 USD.\\nCages make poor vivariums because of the difficulty in maintaining the proper temperature and humidity.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding Layers to the Vivarium Floor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put down a drainage layer of store-bought material (option 1).\", \"描述\": \"Shop at pet retailers or online and choose a vivarium drainage layer material—it’s often made up of small, lightweight plastic pellets or balls. Pour a 2.5–3 in (6.4–7.6 cm) layer in the bottom of the enclosure.\\nAs the name indicates, excess water in the enclosure will drain down into this bottom layer, preventing oversaturation of the earthen layers above.\\nYou can use aquarium pebbles instead, but your vivarium enclosure will be substantially heavier.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a “false bottom” with hardware store materials (option 2).\", \"描述\": \"Buy about 12 PVC pipe connectors that are cylindrical in shape and about 3 in (7.6 cm) in length. Stand them upright and spread them over the floor of the empty enclosure. Then, cut to size and place a single layer of egg-crate material on top of the upright pipe connectors.\\nEgg crate material is usually made of white plastic, about 1 in (2.5 cm) thick, and made up of a grid of hollow squares. You can find it online, or at hardware stores or some pet retailers.\\nThe pipe connectors serve as piers that create a gap between the bottom of the enclosure and the underside of the egg crate material. Excess water will filter down into this void.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a layer of a mesh fabric screen separator.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a screening material that lets water and air pass through but blocks fine dirt particles. You can use weed-blocking landscaping fabric if you wish, but it’s better to buy a fabric screening material made specifically for vivariums—look for it online or in larger pet stores.\\nYour choice of screening material is especially important if you’re adding microfauna (tiny organisms that will help keep the vivarium clean) to the enclosure. Vivarium-specific fabrics will let them pass through, while landscaping fabrics may not.\\nThe screening material comes in rolls that you can cut to size with scissors.\\nIf you're not using a screening material marketed specifically for vivariums, make sure it's labeled as non-toxic.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use a tried-and-true mix for your substrate layer.\", \"描述\": \"Don’t just use potting soil, compost, coconut fiber, or another single material. Instead, search online and consult with knowledgeable friends about the best substrate material for your particular vivarium. Lay 2.5–3 in (6.4–7.6 cm) of your chosen substrate on top of the screening fabric.\\nOne of the most common vivarium substrates is called “ABG substrate” and contains the following mix: 2 parts tree fern fiber, 1 part peat (or, in some cases, coconut fiber), 1 part charcoal, 1 part sphagnum, and 2 parts orchid bark.\\nWhile you can mix up the substrate yourself, it’s easier to buy pre-mixed substrate online or at a pet retailer.\\nSingle-material substrates (like just potting soil) lack the nutrient diversity and varying textures that create a healthy and welcoming substrate for plant and animal life in a vivarium.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Apply 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) of “leaf litter” on top.\", \"描述\": \"For the top layer of your vivarium floor, use “leaf litter”—that is, dried leaves from tropical plants. You can buy leaf litter at retailers that sell vivarium substrate materials.\\nSome vivarium enthusiasts prefer to use moss as the top layer for aesthetic purposes. However, leaf litter gives a more natural look and provides shading and hiding spots for the animals inside the enclosure. You can use a combination of moss and leaf litter if desired.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Completing the Environment\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a background, if desired, for aesthetic purposes.\", \"描述\": \"Some vivarium enthusiasts like to adhere a natural-looking background to the back wall of the enclosure. In many cases, this is done by using silicone adhesive to stick on pieces of rigid foam made to look like rocks, tree limbs, and so on. Such background materials can usually be purchased at retailers that sell other vivarium supplies.\\nYou also can cut and decorate background materials out of rigid foam yourself. Consult with other vivarium enthusiasts for advice on the best materials to use and procedures to follow.\\nA background can help conceal mechanical equipment (for lighting, heating, moisture, etc.) placed behind the enclosure.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install a moisture system based on your chosen species’ needs.\", \"描述\": \"Most vivarium-suited species require humidity levels of at least 60%, and often over 75%. Check with vivarium equipment suppliers to find the best moisture control system for your chosen species and enclosure setup.\\nYour setup may include, for instance, a humidity control monitor and a misting sprayer to add moisture as needed.\\nYou can help to maintain the right humidity level by using an enclosure lid that is part glass and part screening. In most cases, a top that is 75% glass and 25% screening will help maintain 60%-75% humidity inside.\\nYou may also want to buy and install a vivarium drainage system that uses PVC pipe drain lines to help you rapidly reduce the moisture level. However, in most cases, it's sufficient to adjust the humidity manually by increasing or decreasing the amount of screening on the enclosure lid.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Control the temperature based on your chosen species.\", \"描述\": \"There are numerous heating options for vivariums, and it’s usually best to use a combination of them to get the proper balance of conditions inside the enclosure. Make sure you know both the ideal air and surface temperatures for your chosen species, and use thermostat- and timer-controlled heating elements to maintain the proper ranges.\\nFor example, you might use heating lamps to maintain the proper air temperature, and an under-tank heating mat to create a higher surface temperature in one section of the tank—this creates a basking area for your chosen species.\\nAs with humidity control, proper temperature control is vital. Consult with experts to get the right equipment for your vivarium setup.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use bright, mid-warmth lighting that simulates day and night.\", \"描述\": \"For aesthetic purposes, it’s best to go with lighting that’s in the 5000-6500 kelvin range, which is in the mid-range of the warm-to-cool lighting scale. In terms of light intensity, it’s very difficult to make your vivarium too bright for the health of the life inside it—so choose lighting that makes it easy to see everything inside the vivarium.\\nAlways make sure you use timers to keep your lighting on a day-night routine. Also make sure there is adequate shading—created by plant life, leaf litter, and other materials inside the enclosure—so the creatures inside can get relief from the lighting when desired.\\nAs with moisture and temperature control systems, a vivarium novice should consult with experts and buy a lighting system from a vivarium supply retailer. Only try to design your own lighting system if you’re fully confident in your abilities.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Filling the Vivarium with Life\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add habitat-appropriate plants, but don’t overdo it.\", \"描述\": \"It can be tempting to pack your vivarium with 20 or even 30 different plant species to add visual interest. However, a vivarium can quickly look overly cluttered this way, and it’s also easier to maintain an enclosure that has only around 8-12 different plant species.\\nChoose plants that are appropriate for the environmental conditions inside your vivarium, as well as for the featured species you’ve selected for it.\\nConsider buying a pre-selected plant mix from a vivarium supply retailer. This is easier than buying the mix of plants individually.\\nFollow the instructions for each plant type or plant mix for installing and maintaining the plants. In most cases, you’ll need to do very little once the plants become established in the vivarium.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add microfauna to keep the vivarium naturally clean.\", \"描述\": \"For most vivarium enthusiasts, the goal is to create an enclosure that is practically a self-sustaining habitat. To achieve this, microfauna—tiny critters that love to eat things like droppings, leaf decay, and mold—are essential. The most common microfauna options for vivariums are springtails and woodlice (also called isopods).\\nYou can buy microfauna at vivarium supply retailers or online. Simply add the recommended amount to the enclosure once the proper environment is established.\\nSo long as the proper environmental conditions are maintained, the microfauna will take care of themselves and you won't need to clean the vivarium so long as everything inside is healthy.\\nIf any plants appear diseased, however, or if one of your featured creatures dies of a possible infection or disease, you'll have to remove everything from the vivarium, sanitize what can be salvaged and replace what can't be, and re-create the habitat.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Quarantine each chosen animal for 3 weeks.\", \"描述\": \"Before adding your first animal or any subsequent creatures to the vivarium, you should isolate and observe them for illness for 3 weeks. Doing so helps prevent the introduction of unwanted bacteria or illnesses into the closed ecosystem.\\nFor the quarantine period, set up a smaller enclosure with environmental conditions that match the vivarium as closely as possible. Your vivarium species supplier can help you get the necessary supplies for setting up a proper quarantine.\\nCheck on the quarantined animals regularly, and know what signs of illness to watch for in that species. Do not introduce them to the vivarium if they display potential signs of illness.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Observe the animals closely for the first several days.\", \"描述\": \"The first 3-7 days are usually the most critical for the adjustment of your featured species to the vivarium. Watch for any signs of illness or distress, and remove any animals that appear to be ill.\\nThe care needs for the many vivarium-suited species varies widely, so it’s difficult to give anything more than very general care guidance. Make sure you know exactly what your featured species needs—in terms of things like food, water, environmental conditions, companionship, and so on—and make every effort to meet those needs in the vivarium.\\nWith the proper setup, your vivarium will offer a spectacular display of flora and fauna in realistic habitat for years to come!\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,612 |
How to Build a Wall Bed
|
1. Constructing the Mattress Frame
1-1. Cut 2 pieces of plywood 80 in (200 cm) long and 15 in (38 cm) wide.
These are the standard dimensions for a queen-sized bed. Use a tape measure or ruler and measure each piece of wood carefully. Then use a straight edge and pencil to mark the lines that you’ll cut. Make sure these lines are perfectly straight before you cut. Then cut straight along each line. These pieces form the side rails for the mattress frame.
Use either a table saw or circular saw. If you use a circular saw, set up the wood on 2 sawhorses so it stays stable while you measure and cut.
Whenever you use a saw, wear goggles and gloves. Keep your fingers at least 6 inches (15 cm) away from the blade.
Remember that these dimensions are for a standard queen-size bed. Always measure the mattress you’re using to get the correct dimensions. Other bed dimensions are:
King: 80 in (200 cm) long and 76 in (190 cm) wide
Full: 75 in (190 cm) long and 53 in (130 cm) wide
Twin: 75 in (190 cm) long and 38 in (97 cm) wide
1-2. Cut 2 more pieces of plywood 60 in (150 cm) long and 15 in (38 cm) wide.
These pieces form the header and footer of the bed frame. Use the same measuring and cutting techniques to complete the cutting for the frame.
1-3. Screw the 4 sides of the frame together.
Lay 1 of the side rails on its edge. Then take the header and overlap it with the edge of the side rail. Drill 2 screws through the header to attach the 2 pieces. Then screw the other side rail to the opposite side of the header. Finally, screw the footer at the bottom of the frame to complete the rectangular bed frame.
Check and make sure all the edges are even. If not, remove the screws by running the drill in reverse and drill them again.
1-4. Cut 2 plywood boards to 30 inches (76 cm) by 80 inches (200 cm).
These 2 boards form the base of the mattress frame. Use a straightedge and pencil to measure and mark the cutting lines on each board. Then use your circular saw or table saw to cut these boards to the correct size.
Standard plywood boards are 48 inches (120 cm) by 96 inches (240 cm). If you’re using a standard board, cut 18 inches (46 cm) from the width and 16 inches (41 cm) from the length.
Adjust these measurements if you’re building a frame for a different-sized mattress. Make sure the boards cover the same dimensions as the frame.
1-5. Lay the boards lengthwise on top of the frame and line up the edges.
Line up each board with the corners of the mattress frame. Make sure each board covers half the frame. Line up the board edges with the edges of the frame so everything is even.
Push the boards together so there is no space between them.
1-6. Drill a screw every 6 inches (15 cm) around the frame border.
Drill through the flat boards and into the mattress frame. Work around the whole border and drill screws at this regular interval. Make sure all of the screws go straight into the support frames and don't pierce the sides of the frame. If any do, remove them and drill another screw 1 inch (2.5 cm) away.
Re-check the board positioning every few screws to make sure the boards didn’t shift. Keep everything even through the whole process.
1-7. Cut ten 2 in (5.1 cm) x 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of wood 60 inches (150 cm) long.
These wood strips form the support beams for the bed frame. Cut 2 in (5.1 cm) x 2 in (5.1 cm) strips until you have 10 pieces that are 60 inches (150 cm) long.
If you can't find 2 x 2 wood blocks, get 2 x 4s and split them in half with a saw.
Be very careful splitting these pieces of wood. Keep your fingers safely away from the saw blade.
Cut carefully to ensure that you split a straight line through these wooden blocks.
1-8. Drill a horizontal support beam every 10 inches (25 cm) inside the frame.
Start by placing one support beam at the far end of the frame. Press it into the frame so it runs alongside the header and touches both sides. Then drill a screw into each end, through the frame and into the support block. Place another support every 10 inches (25 cm) until you reach the other side.
The support blocks may be a bit too long to fit inside the frame perfectly. If they are, just shave the end until it fits snuggly. Don’t cut too much or it won’t attach securely.
1-9. Paint
Decorating the bed is up to you. You can leave the wood bare, or color it with stain or paint. If you want to paint, it's much easier to do while the bed is still in pieces. Do all the painting before completing the assembly.
Paint in a well-ventilated area. Open the window in the room you're working in and use a window fan to pull fumes out of the area.
Set up a sheet or drop cloth so you don't make a mess with the paint.
You can always stain or paint the bed later, after you've assembled the whole thing.
2. Building the Cabinet
2-1. Cut 2 pieces of plywood to 84 inches (210 cm) by 17 inches (43 cm).
These boards form the vertical supports for the bed frame. Measure and cut these boards the same as you cut the boards before. Work slowly and carefully to make sure all your boards are the correct length.
These measurements are designed for a homemade queen wall bed. If you’re using a kit or pre-made plan, follow those measurements instead.
If you have a lot of room to work, you may want to assemble the cabinet in the room you’re placing the bed. This is easier than transporting the whole cabinet. Remember that this is a big job, so only work in the installation room if you have enough room.
2-2. Cut 2 more pieces of plywood to 64 in (160 cm) by 17 in (43 cm).
These boards form the horizontal supports of the cabinet. Use a straightedge and pencil to draw straight cutting lines onto the wood. Then saw along the lines.
2-3. Attach the 4 pieces of plywood together.
Once you’ve cut the 4 boards to form the cabinet, join them together to complete the frame. Lay 1 of the verticals on its edge. Then overlap its edge with 1 of the horizontal pieces. Drill 2 screws through the horizontal piece to connect the pieces. Do the same with the other 2 boards to complete the rectangular cabinet.
2-4. Paint
If you want to decorate the cabinet, then apply any stain or paint that you’d like. If you already painted the bed frame, make sure you match the colors.
Wear gloves and goggles while you’re painting. Work in a well-ventilated area or open a window in the room you’re working in.
2-5. Move the cabinet into the area that you’re going to install the bed in.
This is much easier with 2 people. Either lift the cabinet with a partner or put a sheet down and slide it along the floor. Then stand the cabinet up along the wall that you’re installing the bed in.
3. Installing the Hardware
3-1. Attach the cabinet to the wall with 2 L-brackets.
Press the cabinet against the wall as close as you can. Find 2 studs in the wall near the center of the cabinet. Arrange the cabinet so the 2 studs are evenly-spaced inside the cabinet. Then take 1 L-bracket and screw 1 side into the stud and the other side into the top support of the cabinet. Do the same for the other L-bracket.
L-brackets are available at hardware stores or online.
Studs are usually 16 inches (41 cm) or 24 inches (61 cm) apart. If the studs in your wall are 16 inches (41 cm) apart, find the next stud instead to space out the L-brackets.
3-2. Fasten the rotating brackets to the inside of the cabinet 6 inches (15 cm) from the floor.
Most rotating mechanisms have 4 holes for that fasten to the cabinet. Hold the piece against the cabinet 6 inches (15 cm) from the bottom and even with the cabinet’s front edge. Then drill a hole into the wood through each hole in the bracket. Insert the bolts that came with the bracket and secure them with nuts. Do the same for the other side of the cabinet.
Tighten each bolt with a wrench to make sure it’s secure.
There are many different kinds of hardware kits for Murphy beds, so follow the specific directions on the product you use.
The distance you install the rotating mechanism from the bottom also depends on the particular kit you use. Follow the provided instructions to install the pieces correctly.
3-3. Screw the mattress frame to the rotating mechanism.
Slide the mattress frame into the cabinet so the header lines up with the rotating brackets. Lift the frame by its header and line it up with the brackets on each side of the cabinet. Drill into the frame using the bracket holes as guidance. Then insert the bolts from your kit into each hole and secure them with nuts.
For easier installation, prop up the frame with wood while you work. That way the frame will stay stable while you install the brackets.
Remember that the specific instructions depend on the hardware kit you’re using. Follow those directions for proper installation.
3-4. Attach the stand to the mattress frame.
Hardware kits also come with a stand that supports the bed when it’s in the down position. Take the stand in your kit and center it on the footer of the mattress frame. Drill through the holes on the stand and install the bolts and nuts to attach the stand.
Test the stand by letting the bed stay in the down position and see if it supports the weight of the mattress. For a more realistic test, try laying in the bed and make sure it holds a person’s weight.
Some stands loop over the mattress when they’re closed and some tuck under the mattress. Refer to your instruction manual for the correct storage position.
3-5. Drill 2 in (5.1 cm) bolts through the cabinet to keep the bed closed.
Close the bed and have someone else hold it shut. Then drill a hole through the cabinet and mattress frame just below the footer of the bed. Insert a 2 in (5.1 cm) bolt to work as a latch and keep the bed up while it’s closed. Repeat the process for the other side.
Do this step before you put a mattress on the bed to prevent drilling into the mattress.
Hold the bed frame while you remove the bolts so the bed doesn’t suddenly drop down while you’re opening it.
3-6. Install a handle on the front of the bed.
Finally, complete this job with a handle to pull the bed open with. Install the handle 1 foot (0.30 m) down from the top of the cabinet so you can pull the bed down. The hardware kit you use may come with a handle. Otherwise, simply drill a piece of wood to the front of the cabinet to use as a makeshift handle.
If you’re installing shelves on the front of the cabinet to hide the bed, these can work as handles. No need to install a separate handle in this case.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:14",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the Mattress Frame\\n1-1. Cut 2 pieces of plywood 80 in (200 cm) long and 15 in (38 cm) wide.\\nThese are the standard dimensions for a queen-sized bed. Use a tape measure or ruler and measure each piece of wood carefully. Then use a straight edge and pencil to mark the lines that you’ll cut. Make sure these lines are perfectly straight before you cut. Then cut straight along each line. These pieces form the side rails for the mattress frame.\\nUse either a table saw or circular saw. If you use a circular saw, set up the wood on 2 sawhorses so it stays stable while you measure and cut.\\nWhenever you use a saw, wear goggles and gloves. Keep your fingers at least 6 inches (15 cm) away from the blade.\\nRemember that these dimensions are for a standard queen-size bed. Always measure the mattress you’re using to get the correct dimensions. Other bed dimensions are:\\nKing: 80 in (200 cm) long and 76 in (190 cm) wide\\nFull: 75 in (190 cm) long and 53 in (130 cm) wide\\nTwin: 75 in (190 cm) long and 38 in (97 cm) wide\\n1-2. Cut 2 more pieces of plywood 60 in (150 cm) long and 15 in (38 cm) wide.\\nThese pieces form the header and footer of the bed frame. Use the same measuring and cutting techniques to complete the cutting for the frame.\\n1-3. Screw the 4 sides of the frame together.\\nLay 1 of the side rails on its edge. Then take the header and overlap it with the edge of the side rail. Drill 2 screws through the header to attach the 2 pieces. Then screw the other side rail to the opposite side of the header. Finally, screw the footer at the bottom of the frame to complete the rectangular bed frame.\\nCheck and make sure all the edges are even. If not, remove the screws by running the drill in reverse and drill them again.\\n1-4. Cut 2 plywood boards to 30 inches (76 cm) by 80 inches (200 cm).\\nThese 2 boards form the base of the mattress frame. Use a straightedge and pencil to measure and mark the cutting lines on each board. Then use your circular saw or table saw to cut these boards to the correct size.\\nStandard plywood boards are 48 inches (120 cm) by 96 inches (240 cm). If you’re using a standard board, cut 18 inches (46 cm) from the width and 16 inches (41 cm) from the length.\\nAdjust these measurements if you’re building a frame for a different-sized mattress. Make sure the boards cover the same dimensions as the frame.\\n1-5. Lay the boards lengthwise on top of the frame and line up the edges.\\nLine up each board with the corners of the mattress frame. Make sure each board covers half the frame. Line up the board edges with the edges of the frame so everything is even.\\nPush the boards together so there is no space between them.\\n1-6. Drill a screw every 6 inches (15 cm) around the frame border.\\nDrill through the flat boards and into the mattress frame. Work around the whole border and drill screws at this regular interval. Make sure all of the screws go straight into the support frames and don't pierce the sides of the frame. If any do, remove them and drill another screw 1 inch (2.5 cm) away.\\nRe-check the board positioning every few screws to make sure the boards didn’t shift. Keep everything even through the whole process.\\n1-7. Cut ten 2 in (5.1 cm) x 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of wood 60 inches (150 cm) long.\\nThese wood strips form the support beams for the bed frame. Cut 2 in (5.1 cm) x 2 in (5.1 cm) strips until you have 10 pieces that are 60 inches (150 cm) long.\\nIf you can't find 2 x 2 wood blocks, get 2 x 4s and split them in half with a saw.\\nBe very careful splitting these pieces of wood. Keep your fingers safely away from the saw blade.\\nCut carefully to ensure that you split a straight line through these wooden blocks.\\n1-8. Drill a horizontal support beam every 10 inches (25 cm) inside the frame.\\nStart by placing one support beam at the far end of the frame. Press it into the frame so it runs alongside the header and touches both sides. Then drill a screw into each end, through the frame and into the support block. Place another support every 10 inches (25 cm) until you reach the other side.\\nThe support blocks may be a bit too long to fit inside the frame perfectly. If they are, just shave the end until it fits snuggly. Don’t cut too much or it won’t attach securely.\\n1-9. Paint\\nDecorating the bed is up to you. You can leave the wood bare, or color it with stain or paint. If you want to paint, it's much easier to do while the bed is still in pieces. Do all the painting before completing the assembly.\\nPaint in a well-ventilated area. Open the window in the room you're working in and use a window fan to pull fumes out of the area.\\nSet up a sheet or drop cloth so you don't make a mess with the paint.\\nYou can always stain or paint the bed later, after you've assembled the whole thing.\\n2. Building the Cabinet\\n2-1. Cut 2 pieces of plywood to 84 inches (210 cm) by 17 inches (43 cm).\\nThese boards form the vertical supports for the bed frame. Measure and cut these boards the same as you cut the boards before. Work slowly and carefully to make sure all your boards are the correct length.\\nThese measurements are designed for a homemade queen wall bed. If you’re using a kit or pre-made plan, follow those measurements instead.\\nIf you have a lot of room to work, you may want to assemble the cabinet in the room you’re placing the bed. This is easier than transporting the whole cabinet. Remember that this is a big job, so only work in the installation room if you have enough room.\\n2-2. Cut 2 more pieces of plywood to 64 in (160 cm) by 17 in (43 cm).\\nThese boards form the horizontal supports of the cabinet. Use a straightedge and pencil to draw straight cutting lines onto the wood. Then saw along the lines.\\n2-3. Attach the 4 pieces of plywood together.\\nOnce you’ve cut the 4 boards to form the cabinet, join them together to complete the frame. Lay 1 of the verticals on its edge. Then overlap its edge with 1 of the horizontal pieces. Drill 2 screws through the horizontal piece to connect the pieces. Do the same with the other 2 boards to complete the rectangular cabinet.\\n2-4. Paint\\nIf you want to decorate the cabinet, then apply any stain or paint that you’d like. If you already painted the bed frame, make sure you match the colors.\\nWear gloves and goggles while you’re painting. Work in a well-ventilated area or open a window in the room you’re working in.\\n2-5. Move the cabinet into the area that you’re going to install the bed in.\\nThis is much easier with 2 people. Either lift the cabinet with a partner or put a sheet down and slide it along the floor. Then stand the cabinet up along the wall that you’re installing the bed in.\\n3. Installing the Hardware\\n3-1. Attach the cabinet to the wall with 2 L-brackets.\\nPress the cabinet against the wall as close as you can. Find 2 studs in the wall near the center of the cabinet. Arrange the cabinet so the 2 studs are evenly-spaced inside the cabinet. Then take 1 L-bracket and screw 1 side into the stud and the other side into the top support of the cabinet. Do the same for the other L-bracket.\\nL-brackets are available at hardware stores or online.\\nStuds are usually 16 inches (41 cm) or 24 inches (61 cm) apart. If the studs in your wall are 16 inches (41 cm) apart, find the next stud instead to space out the L-brackets.\\n3-2. Fasten the rotating brackets to the inside of the cabinet 6 inches (15 cm) from the floor.\\nMost rotating mechanisms have 4 holes for that fasten to the cabinet. Hold the piece against the cabinet 6 inches (15 cm) from the bottom and even with the cabinet’s front edge. Then drill a hole into the wood through each hole in the bracket. Insert the bolts that came with the bracket and secure them with nuts. Do the same for the other side of the cabinet.\\nTighten each bolt with a wrench to make sure it’s secure.\\nThere are many different kinds of hardware kits for Murphy beds, so follow the specific directions on the product you use.\\nThe distance you install the rotating mechanism from the bottom also depends on the particular kit you use. Follow the provided instructions to install the pieces correctly.\\n3-3. Screw the mattress frame to the rotating mechanism.\\nSlide the mattress frame into the cabinet so the header lines up with the rotating brackets. Lift the frame by its header and line it up with the brackets on each side of the cabinet. Drill into the frame using the bracket holes as guidance. Then insert the bolts from your kit into each hole and secure them with nuts.\\nFor easier installation, prop up the frame with wood while you work. That way the frame will stay stable while you install the brackets.\\nRemember that the specific instructions depend on the hardware kit you’re using. Follow those directions for proper installation.\\n3-4. Attach the stand to the mattress frame.\\nHardware kits also come with a stand that supports the bed when it’s in the down position. Take the stand in your kit and center it on the footer of the mattress frame. Drill through the holes on the stand and install the bolts and nuts to attach the stand.\\nTest the stand by letting the bed stay in the down position and see if it supports the weight of the mattress. For a more realistic test, try laying in the bed and make sure it holds a person’s weight.\\nSome stands loop over the mattress when they’re closed and some tuck under the mattress. Refer to your instruction manual for the correct storage position.\\n3-5. Drill 2 in (5.1 cm) bolts through the cabinet to keep the bed closed.\\nClose the bed and have someone else hold it shut. Then drill a hole through the cabinet and mattress frame just below the footer of the bed. Insert a 2 in (5.1 cm) bolt to work as a latch and keep the bed up while it’s closed. Repeat the process for the other side.\\nDo this step before you put a mattress on the bed to prevent drilling into the mattress.\\nHold the bed frame while you remove the bolts so the bed doesn’t suddenly drop down while you’re opening it.\\n3-6. Install a handle on the front of the bed.\\nFinally, complete this job with a handle to pull the bed open with. Install the handle 1 foot (0.30 m) down from the top of the cabinet so you can pull the bed down. The hardware kit you use may come with a handle. Otherwise, simply drill a piece of wood to the front of the cabinet to use as a makeshift handle.\\nIf you’re installing shelves on the front of the cabinet to hide the bed, these can work as handles. No need to install a separate handle in this case.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A wall bed, also called a Murphy bed, is a bed that folds up into a cabinet to make more space in a room. Pre-made wall beds are expensive—they can cost several thousand dollars. Building your own, however, costs a fraction of that price. This is a complicated job, but you can do it with some carpentry skills. First, construct the mattress frame and cabinet out of plywood boards and wooden blocks. Then, attach the cabinet to the wall. Use a hardware kit to install the rotating mechanism to lift and lower the bed. Finish up by adding a bed stand and security bolts to hold everything in place.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Mattress Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 pieces of plywood 80 in (200 cm) long and 15 in (38 cm) wide.\", \"描述\": \"These are the standard dimensions for a queen-sized bed. Use a tape measure or ruler and measure each piece of wood carefully. Then use a straight edge and pencil to mark the lines that you’ll cut. Make sure these lines are perfectly straight before you cut. Then cut straight along each line. These pieces form the side rails for the mattress frame.\\nUse either a table saw or circular saw. If you use a circular saw, set up the wood on 2 sawhorses so it stays stable while you measure and cut.\\nWhenever you use a saw, wear goggles and gloves. Keep your fingers at least 6 inches (15 cm) away from the blade.\\nRemember that these dimensions are for a standard queen-size bed. Always measure the mattress you’re using to get the correct dimensions. Other bed dimensions are:\\nKing: 80 in (200 cm) long and 76 in (190 cm) wide\\nFull: 75 in (190 cm) long and 53 in (130 cm) wide\\nTwin: 75 in (190 cm) long and 38 in (97 cm) wide\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 more pieces of plywood 60 in (150 cm) long and 15 in (38 cm) wide.\", \"描述\": \"These pieces form the header and footer of the bed frame. Use the same measuring and cutting techniques to complete the cutting for the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw the 4 sides of the frame together.\", \"描述\": \"Lay 1 of the side rails on its edge. Then take the header and overlap it with the edge of the side rail. Drill 2 screws through the header to attach the 2 pieces. Then screw the other side rail to the opposite side of the header. Finally, screw the footer at the bottom of the frame to complete the rectangular bed frame.\\nCheck and make sure all the edges are even. If not, remove the screws by running the drill in reverse and drill them again.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 plywood boards to 30 inches (76 cm) by 80 inches (200 cm).\", \"描述\": \"These 2 boards form the base of the mattress frame. Use a straightedge and pencil to measure and mark the cutting lines on each board. Then use your circular saw or table saw to cut these boards to the correct size.\\nStandard plywood boards are 48 inches (120 cm) by 96 inches (240 cm). If you’re using a standard board, cut 18 inches (46 cm) from the width and 16 inches (41 cm) from the length.\\nAdjust these measurements if you’re building a frame for a different-sized mattress. Make sure the boards cover the same dimensions as the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lay the boards lengthwise on top of the frame and line up the edges.\", \"描述\": \"Line up each board with the corners of the mattress frame. Make sure each board covers half the frame. Line up the board edges with the edges of the frame so everything is even.\\nPush the boards together so there is no space between them.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill a screw every 6 inches (15 cm) around the frame border.\", \"描述\": \"Drill through the flat boards and into the mattress frame. Work around the whole border and drill screws at this regular interval. Make sure all of the screws go straight into the support frames and don't pierce the sides of the frame. If any do, remove them and drill another screw 1 inch (2.5 cm) away.\\nRe-check the board positioning every few screws to make sure the boards didn’t shift. Keep everything even through the whole process.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut ten 2 in (5.1 cm) x 2 in (5.1 cm) pieces of wood 60 inches (150 cm) long.\", \"描述\": \"These wood strips form the support beams for the bed frame. Cut 2 in (5.1 cm) x 2 in (5.1 cm) strips until you have 10 pieces that are 60 inches (150 cm) long.\\nIf you can't find 2 x 2 wood blocks, get 2 x 4s and split them in half with a saw.\\nBe very careful splitting these pieces of wood. Keep your fingers safely away from the saw blade.\\nCut carefully to ensure that you split a straight line through these wooden blocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Drill a horizontal support beam every 10 inches (25 cm) inside the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Start by placing one support beam at the far end of the frame. Press it into the frame so it runs alongside the header and touches both sides. Then drill a screw into each end, through the frame and into the support block. Place another support every 10 inches (25 cm) until you reach the other side.\\nThe support blocks may be a bit too long to fit inside the frame perfectly. If they are, just shave the end until it fits snuggly. Don’t cut too much or it won’t attach securely.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Paint\", \"描述\": \"Decorating the bed is up to you. You can leave the wood bare, or color it with stain or paint. If you want to paint, it's much easier to do while the bed is still in pieces. Do all the painting before completing the assembly.\\nPaint in a well-ventilated area. Open the window in the room you're working in and use a window fan to pull fumes out of the area.\\nSet up a sheet or drop cloth so you don't make a mess with the paint.\\nYou can always stain or paint the bed later, after you've assembled the whole thing.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Cabinet\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 pieces of plywood to 84 inches (210 cm) by 17 inches (43 cm).\", \"描述\": \"These boards form the vertical supports for the bed frame. Measure and cut these boards the same as you cut the boards before. Work slowly and carefully to make sure all your boards are the correct length.\\nThese measurements are designed for a homemade queen wall bed. If you’re using a kit or pre-made plan, follow those measurements instead.\\nIf you have a lot of room to work, you may want to assemble the cabinet in the room you’re placing the bed. This is easier than transporting the whole cabinet. Remember that this is a big job, so only work in the installation room if you have enough room.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 more pieces of plywood to 64 in (160 cm) by 17 in (43 cm).\", \"描述\": \"These boards form the horizontal supports of the cabinet. Use a straightedge and pencil to draw straight cutting lines onto the wood. Then saw along the lines.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the 4 pieces of plywood together.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve cut the 4 boards to form the cabinet, join them together to complete the frame. Lay 1 of the verticals on its edge. Then overlap its edge with 1 of the horizontal pieces. Drill 2 screws through the horizontal piece to connect the pieces. Do the same with the other 2 boards to complete the rectangular cabinet.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Paint\", \"描述\": \"If you want to decorate the cabinet, then apply any stain or paint that you’d like. If you already painted the bed frame, make sure you match the colors.\\nWear gloves and goggles while you’re painting. Work in a well-ventilated area or open a window in the room you’re working in.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Move the cabinet into the area that you’re going to install the bed in.\", \"描述\": \"This is much easier with 2 people. Either lift the cabinet with a partner or put a sheet down and slide it along the floor. Then stand the cabinet up along the wall that you’re installing the bed in.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Hardware\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach the cabinet to the wall with 2 L-brackets.\", \"描述\": \"Press the cabinet against the wall as close as you can. Find 2 studs in the wall near the center of the cabinet. Arrange the cabinet so the 2 studs are evenly-spaced inside the cabinet. Then take 1 L-bracket and screw 1 side into the stud and the other side into the top support of the cabinet. Do the same for the other L-bracket.\\nL-brackets are available at hardware stores or online.\\nStuds are usually 16 inches (41 cm) or 24 inches (61 cm) apart. If the studs in your wall are 16 inches (41 cm) apart, find the next stud instead to space out the L-brackets.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fasten the rotating brackets to the inside of the cabinet 6 inches (15 cm) from the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Most rotating mechanisms have 4 holes for that fasten to the cabinet. Hold the piece against the cabinet 6 inches (15 cm) from the bottom and even with the cabinet’s front edge. Then drill a hole into the wood through each hole in the bracket. Insert the bolts that came with the bracket and secure them with nuts. Do the same for the other side of the cabinet.\\nTighten each bolt with a wrench to make sure it’s secure.\\nThere are many different kinds of hardware kits for Murphy beds, so follow the specific directions on the product you use.\\nThe distance you install the rotating mechanism from the bottom also depends on the particular kit you use. Follow the provided instructions to install the pieces correctly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw the mattress frame to the rotating mechanism.\", \"描述\": \"Slide the mattress frame into the cabinet so the header lines up with the rotating brackets. Lift the frame by its header and line it up with the brackets on each side of the cabinet. Drill into the frame using the bracket holes as guidance. Then insert the bolts from your kit into each hole and secure them with nuts.\\nFor easier installation, prop up the frame with wood while you work. That way the frame will stay stable while you install the brackets.\\nRemember that the specific instructions depend on the hardware kit you’re using. Follow those directions for proper installation.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the stand to the mattress frame.\", \"描述\": \"Hardware kits also come with a stand that supports the bed when it’s in the down position. Take the stand in your kit and center it on the footer of the mattress frame. Drill through the holes on the stand and install the bolts and nuts to attach the stand.\\nTest the stand by letting the bed stay in the down position and see if it supports the weight of the mattress. For a more realistic test, try laying in the bed and make sure it holds a person’s weight.\\nSome stands loop over the mattress when they’re closed and some tuck under the mattress. Refer to your instruction manual for the correct storage position.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill 2 in (5.1 cm) bolts through the cabinet to keep the bed closed.\", \"描述\": \"Close the bed and have someone else hold it shut. Then drill a hole through the cabinet and mattress frame just below the footer of the bed. Insert a 2 in (5.1 cm) bolt to work as a latch and keep the bed up while it’s closed. Repeat the process for the other side.\\nDo this step before you put a mattress on the bed to prevent drilling into the mattress.\\nHold the bed frame while you remove the bolts so the bed doesn’t suddenly drop down while you’re opening it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install a handle on the front of the bed.\", \"描述\": \"Finally, complete this job with a handle to pull the bed open with. Install the handle 1 foot (0.30 m) down from the top of the cabinet so you can pull the bed down. The hardware kit you use may come with a handle. Otherwise, simply drill a piece of wood to the front of the cabinet to use as a makeshift handle.\\nIf you’re installing shelves on the front of the cabinet to hide the bed, these can work as handles. No need to install a separate handle in this case.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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How to Build a Wardrobe from Scratch
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1. Creating a Foundation of Staple Pieces
1-1. Take note of your fashion needs for your lifestyle.
Think about your day to day activities and decide what kind of clothing you need to wear to accommodate them. For example, if you are super athletic, you may need more sporty clothes. If you work in a professional office environment, you may need a few business casual outfits.
You can also try to define yourself in a new way. If you were previously super sporty but you want to change up your look, feel free to go for a more elegant or chic style.
Ultimately, your wardrobe should really reflect who you are as a person.
1-2. Pick out a color palette or style you like.
Think about the colors you normally gravitate towards: pastels, nudes, or bold colors are all great options. You can also take a look at different styles that you like: streetwear, high-fashion, or boho are all styles you can create in your own wardrobe.[[Image:Build a Wardrobe from Scratch Step 2.jpg|center]]
You can also pick out a print that you love, like zebra or leopard.
Look at the pieces you already have as a starting point.
1-3. Measure your body to find out your clothing size.
It’s important that your new clothes fit you well. Take the measurements of your upper and lower body to give you an idea of what size you are. You should always buy clothes that fit your body as it is now, even if you are planning on losing or gaining weight in the future.
1-4. Select 3 to 4 solid colored T-shirts for versatile options.
A good white, black, and gray T-shirt are essential items for any wardrobe. Pick out a couple of these T-shirts with a V-neck or crew neck to make a base for the rest of your clothing.
You can also grab a few long sleeve shirts in the same colors for the winter time.
1-5. Grab 2 to 3 button-downs for professional outfits.
Even if you don’t work in a professional environment, it’s always good to have a few button-downs for formal events or job interviews. Find a few white or blue button-downs to add to your wardrobe.
You can also use button-downs in streetwear looks or more casual outfits.
1-6. Pick out some black, dark wash, or light wash skinny jeans for casual pants.
Denim is a great staple to have in your wardrobe. Pick out different colors of jeans to pair them with almost any top in your closet for multiple outfit variations.
Black jeans are great for solid-colored outfits, while light or dark wash denim pair great with almost any color.
Purchase a pair of white denim jeans if you want to wear them in the summer.
Add in a pair of straight-legged or flare jeans for some variation in your style.
1-7. Pick out 1 to 2 pairs of comfortable, casual shoes.
Ballet flats, loafers, or boat shoes all work well with many outfits and keep your feet comfortable. Grab a few of these shoes in black or brown to be able to wear them with a ton of different outfits.
2. Expanding with Casual Pieces
2-1. Purchase a lightweight sweater for the fall.
Make sure you have enough clothes to keep you warm in the chilly weather. Add a gray, black, or white lightweight crewneck sweater to your wardrobe to wear in the fall or winter.
Add an oversized sweater to your wardrobe if that’s more your style.
2-2. Grab a waterproof jacket for the rainy season.
A lightweight, waterproof jacket is great to have during the warm and wet months. Find a solid raincoat with a hood to keep you dry during the fall and winter.
Choose a neutral-colored jacket so you can wear it over any outfit.
2-3. Select a bold floral piece for the spring and summer time.
A floral mini dress or button-down looks great when the flowers start to bloom. Find a bright-colored dress or button-down shirt with a floral print to complement the warmer months of the year.
2-4. Buy a maxi dress to keep your outfit casual.
If you wear dresses a lot, you may want to cover up your legs sometimes. Find a solid-colored maxi dress to make your outfit casual and have a good staple in your wardrobe.
2-5. Pick up a pair of sneakers for physical activity.
Pick up some running shoes to exercise or spend time outside in. Make sure they’re super comfortable and that you can wear them during long stretches of physical activity.
Pick all white sneakers for a minimalist look, or go for black ones for a versatile option.
3. Adding Dressy and Professional Clothes
3-1. Buy dress pants for any formal events.
Pick up some khaki, black, or navy blue slacks to complement any outfit you wear for formal or professional events. If you work in a formal office environment, you may want to buy 2 or 3 pairs.
If you wear suits to work, you can purchase a matching suit jacket for versatility.
3-2. Grab a little black dress for nights out.
Find a black mini dress that hugs your figure to wear out on dates or to clubs. Pick one with spaghetti straps for the summer months or find one with long sleeves to wear in the winter.
Buy a black slip dress for a more silky, high-fashion look.
3-3. Add 1 to 2 pairs of heels or dress shoes for formal events.
Pick out some black, brown, or nude heels to complement dresses or skirts, or find some laced up dress shoes or loafers to pair with suits and slacks. Start out with 1 pair and add a second pair if you wear them often.
3-4. Buy a peacoat or a trench coat for formal outfits.
It’s always good to have a longer piece of outerwear to wear over suits or dresses. Find a black or camel-colored peacoat or trench coat that hits below your knees.
3-5. Add a blazer to your wardrobe for professional looks.
Buy a structured blazer that fits you well in the arms and the waist to wear over button-downs or blouses. You can buy a black blazer for a versatile piece, or grab a checkered one for a more casual option.
Blazers work great in streetwear outfits as well as professional ones.
4. Incorporating Accessories
4-1. Grab 1 large handbag for everyday wear.
If you carry a purse with you, make sure it can fit all of your essentials, like your wallet, keys, phone, makeup, and any other items you travel around with daily. Use a structured handbag in a professional environment or a more slouchy one to keep it casual.
4-2. Buy a backpack to take your things on the go.
If a handbag isn’t big enough for you or you prefer a sporty look, invest in a large backpack to hold your phone, keys, and wallet, as well as your laptop, water bottle, or books. Backpacks are especially helpful if you spend a lot of time outside the house.
Try to find a waterproof backpack to protect your things from the rain and make your backpack last longer.
4-3. Add in jewelry or watches slowly.
Although pieces like necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and watches aren’t totally necessary to wear an outfit, they do make it feel more complete. As you start wearing your new wardrobe, buy pieces of jewelry in the same color scheme as your clothes to complement your new look.
4-4. Select a few scarves and hats to keep you warm.
If the winters where you live get super cold, invest in a few wool or cotton scarves and hats to bundle up in. If you live in a warmer climate, you can find a few silk scarves or sun hats to wear instead.
Baseball caps are also great for keeping the sun out of your face.
Tips
Try on your clothes before you buy them to make sure they fit you well.
If you are buying clothes online, make sure the store has a return policy in case they don’t fit you.
Finding your style is a process. Don’t be afraid to try on new and different pieces to find out what you like!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:15",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating a Foundation of Staple Pieces\\n1-1. Take note of your fashion needs for your lifestyle.\\nThink about your day to day activities and decide what kind of clothing you need to wear to accommodate them. For example, if you are super athletic, you may need more sporty clothes. If you work in a professional office environment, you may need a few business casual outfits.\\nYou can also try to define yourself in a new way. If you were previously super sporty but you want to change up your look, feel free to go for a more elegant or chic style.\\nUltimately, your wardrobe should really reflect who you are as a person.\\n1-2. Pick out a color palette or style you like.\\nThink about the colors you normally gravitate towards: pastels, nudes, or bold colors are all great options. You can also take a look at different styles that you like: streetwear, high-fashion, or boho are all styles you can create in your own wardrobe.[[Image:Build a Wardrobe from Scratch Step 2.jpg|center]]\\nYou can also pick out a print that you love, like zebra or leopard.\\nLook at the pieces you already have as a starting point.\\n1-3. Measure your body to find out your clothing size.\\nIt’s important that your new clothes fit you well. Take the measurements of your upper and lower body to give you an idea of what size you are. You should always buy clothes that fit your body as it is now, even if you are planning on losing or gaining weight in the future.\\n1-4. Select 3 to 4 solid colored T-shirts for versatile options.\\nA good white, black, and gray T-shirt are essential items for any wardrobe. Pick out a couple of these T-shirts with a V-neck or crew neck to make a base for the rest of your clothing.\\nYou can also grab a few long sleeve shirts in the same colors for the winter time.\\n1-5. Grab 2 to 3 button-downs for professional outfits.\\nEven if you don’t work in a professional environment, it’s always good to have a few button-downs for formal events or job interviews. Find a few white or blue button-downs to add to your wardrobe.\\nYou can also use button-downs in streetwear looks or more casual outfits.\\n1-6. Pick out some black, dark wash, or light wash skinny jeans for casual pants.\\nDenim is a great staple to have in your wardrobe. Pick out different colors of jeans to pair them with almost any top in your closet for multiple outfit variations.\\nBlack jeans are great for solid-colored outfits, while light or dark wash denim pair great with almost any color.\\nPurchase a pair of white denim jeans if you want to wear them in the summer.\\nAdd in a pair of straight-legged or flare jeans for some variation in your style.\\n1-7. Pick out 1 to 2 pairs of comfortable, casual shoes.\\nBallet flats, loafers, or boat shoes all work well with many outfits and keep your feet comfortable. Grab a few of these shoes in black or brown to be able to wear them with a ton of different outfits.\\n2. Expanding with Casual Pieces\\n2-1. Purchase a lightweight sweater for the fall.\\nMake sure you have enough clothes to keep you warm in the chilly weather. Add a gray, black, or white lightweight crewneck sweater to your wardrobe to wear in the fall or winter.\\nAdd an oversized sweater to your wardrobe if that’s more your style.\\n2-2. Grab a waterproof jacket for the rainy season.\\nA lightweight, waterproof jacket is great to have during the warm and wet months. Find a solid raincoat with a hood to keep you dry during the fall and winter.\\nChoose a neutral-colored jacket so you can wear it over any outfit.\\n2-3. Select a bold floral piece for the spring and summer time.\\nA floral mini dress or button-down looks great when the flowers start to bloom. Find a bright-colored dress or button-down shirt with a floral print to complement the warmer months of the year.\\n2-4. Buy a maxi dress to keep your outfit casual.\\nIf you wear dresses a lot, you may want to cover up your legs sometimes. Find a solid-colored maxi dress to make your outfit casual and have a good staple in your wardrobe.\\n2-5. Pick up a pair of sneakers for physical activity.\\nPick up some running shoes to exercise or spend time outside in. Make sure they’re super comfortable and that you can wear them during long stretches of physical activity.\\nPick all white sneakers for a minimalist look, or go for black ones for a versatile option.\\n3. Adding Dressy and Professional Clothes\\n3-1. Buy dress pants for any formal events.\\nPick up some khaki, black, or navy blue slacks to complement any outfit you wear for formal or professional events. If you work in a formal office environment, you may want to buy 2 or 3 pairs.\\nIf you wear suits to work, you can purchase a matching suit jacket for versatility.\\n3-2. Grab a little black dress for nights out.\\nFind a black mini dress that hugs your figure to wear out on dates or to clubs. Pick one with spaghetti straps for the summer months or find one with long sleeves to wear in the winter.\\nBuy a black slip dress for a more silky, high-fashion look.\\n3-3. Add 1 to 2 pairs of heels or dress shoes for formal events.\\nPick out some black, brown, or nude heels to complement dresses or skirts, or find some laced up dress shoes or loafers to pair with suits and slacks. Start out with 1 pair and add a second pair if you wear them often.\\n3-4. Buy a peacoat or a trench coat for formal outfits.\\nIt’s always good to have a longer piece of outerwear to wear over suits or dresses. Find a black or camel-colored peacoat or trench coat that hits below your knees.\\n3-5. Add a blazer to your wardrobe for professional looks.\\nBuy a structured blazer that fits you well in the arms and the waist to wear over button-downs or blouses. You can buy a black blazer for a versatile piece, or grab a checkered one for a more casual option.\\nBlazers work great in streetwear outfits as well as professional ones.\\n4. Incorporating Accessories\\n4-1. Grab 1 large handbag for everyday wear.\\nIf you carry a purse with you, make sure it can fit all of your essentials, like your wallet, keys, phone, makeup, and any other items you travel around with daily. Use a structured handbag in a professional environment or a more slouchy one to keep it casual.\\n4-2. Buy a backpack to take your things on the go.\\nIf a handbag isn’t big enough for you or you prefer a sporty look, invest in a large backpack to hold your phone, keys, and wallet, as well as your laptop, water bottle, or books. Backpacks are especially helpful if you spend a lot of time outside the house.\\nTry to find a waterproof backpack to protect your things from the rain and make your backpack last longer.\\n4-3. Add in jewelry or watches slowly.\\nAlthough pieces like necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and watches aren’t totally necessary to wear an outfit, they do make it feel more complete. As you start wearing your new wardrobe, buy pieces of jewelry in the same color scheme as your clothes to complement your new look.\\n4-4. Select a few scarves and hats to keep you warm.\\nIf the winters where you live get super cold, invest in a few wool or cotton scarves and hats to bundle up in. If you live in a warmer climate, you can find a few silk scarves or sun hats to wear instead.\\nBaseball caps are also great for keeping the sun out of your face.\\nTips\\nTry on your clothes before you buy them to make sure they fit you well.\\nIf you are buying clothes online, make sure the store has a return policy in case they don’t fit you.\\nFinding your style is a process. Don’t be afraid to try on new and different pieces to find out what you like!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you’ve been feeling stuck in a rut with the clothes you wear or you aren’t happy with your style, it may be time to build a new wardrobe. With so many options and clothing types out there, it can be hard to know where to start! By taking your own style into account and finding staple pieces to build your closet on, you can find pieces that make you look and feel good when you wear them.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating a Foundation of Staple Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take note of your fashion needs for your lifestyle.\", \"描述\": \"Think about your day to day activities and decide what kind of clothing you need to wear to accommodate them. For example, if you are super athletic, you may need more sporty clothes. If you work in a professional office environment, you may need a few business casual outfits.\\nYou can also try to define yourself in a new way. If you were previously super sporty but you want to change up your look, feel free to go for a more elegant or chic style.\\nUltimately, your wardrobe should really reflect who you are as a person.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick out a color palette or style you like.\", \"描述\": \"Think about the colors you normally gravitate towards: pastels, nudes, or bold colors are all great options. You can also take a look at different styles that you like: streetwear, high-fashion, or boho are all styles you can create in your own wardrobe.[[Image:Build a Wardrobe from Scratch Step 2.jpg|center]]\\nYou can also pick out a print that you love, like zebra or leopard.\\nLook at the pieces you already have as a starting point.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure your body to find out your clothing size.\", \"描述\": \"It’s important that your new clothes fit you well. Take the measurements of your upper and lower body to give you an idea of what size you are. You should always buy clothes that fit your body as it is now, even if you are planning on losing or gaining weight in the future.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select 3 to 4 solid colored T-shirts for versatile options.\", \"描述\": \"A good white, black, and gray T-shirt are essential items for any wardrobe. Pick out a couple of these T-shirts with a V-neck or crew neck to make a base for the rest of your clothing.\\nYou can also grab a few long sleeve shirts in the same colors for the winter time.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Grab 2 to 3 button-downs for professional outfits.\", \"描述\": \"Even if you don’t work in a professional environment, it’s always good to have a few button-downs for formal events or job interviews. Find a few white or blue button-downs to add to your wardrobe.\\nYou can also use button-downs in streetwear looks or more casual outfits.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pick out some black, dark wash, or light wash skinny jeans for casual pants.\", \"描述\": \"Denim is a great staple to have in your wardrobe. Pick out different colors of jeans to pair them with almost any top in your closet for multiple outfit variations.\\nBlack jeans are great for solid-colored outfits, while light or dark wash denim pair great with almost any color.\\nPurchase a pair of white denim jeans if you want to wear them in the summer.\\nAdd in a pair of straight-legged or flare jeans for some variation in your style.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Pick out 1 to 2 pairs of comfortable, casual shoes.\", \"描述\": \"Ballet flats, loafers, or boat shoes all work well with many outfits and keep your feet comfortable. Grab a few of these shoes in black or brown to be able to wear them with a ton of different outfits.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Expanding with Casual Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase a lightweight sweater for the fall.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you have enough clothes to keep you warm in the chilly weather. Add a gray, black, or white lightweight crewneck sweater to your wardrobe to wear in the fall or winter.\\nAdd an oversized sweater to your wardrobe if that’s more your style.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Grab a waterproof jacket for the rainy season.\", \"描述\": \"A lightweight, waterproof jacket is great to have during the warm and wet months. Find a solid raincoat with a hood to keep you dry during the fall and winter.\\nChoose a neutral-colored jacket so you can wear it over any outfit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Select a bold floral piece for the spring and summer time.\", \"描述\": \"A floral mini dress or button-down looks great when the flowers start to bloom. Find a bright-colored dress or button-down shirt with a floral print to complement the warmer months of the year.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Buy a maxi dress to keep your outfit casual.\", \"描述\": \"If you wear dresses a lot, you may want to cover up your legs sometimes. Find a solid-colored maxi dress to make your outfit casual and have a good staple in your wardrobe.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pick up a pair of sneakers for physical activity.\", \"描述\": \"Pick up some running shoes to exercise or spend time outside in. Make sure they’re super comfortable and that you can wear them during long stretches of physical activity.\\nPick all white sneakers for a minimalist look, or go for black ones for a versatile option.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding Dressy and Professional Clothes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy dress pants for any formal events.\", \"描述\": \"Pick up some khaki, black, or navy blue slacks to complement any outfit you wear for formal or professional events. If you work in a formal office environment, you may want to buy 2 or 3 pairs.\\nIf you wear suits to work, you can purchase a matching suit jacket for versatility.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Grab a little black dress for nights out.\", \"描述\": \"Find a black mini dress that hugs your figure to wear out on dates or to clubs. Pick one with spaghetti straps for the summer months or find one with long sleeves to wear in the winter.\\nBuy a black slip dress for a more silky, high-fashion look.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add 1 to 2 pairs of heels or dress shoes for formal events.\", \"描述\": \"Pick out some black, brown, or nude heels to complement dresses or skirts, or find some laced up dress shoes or loafers to pair with suits and slacks. Start out with 1 pair and add a second pair if you wear them often.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Buy a peacoat or a trench coat for formal outfits.\", \"描述\": \"It’s always good to have a longer piece of outerwear to wear over suits or dresses. Find a black or camel-colored peacoat or trench coat that hits below your knees.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add a blazer to your wardrobe for professional looks.\", \"描述\": \"Buy a structured blazer that fits you well in the arms and the waist to wear over button-downs or blouses. You can buy a black blazer for a versatile piece, or grab a checkered one for a more casual option.\\nBlazers work great in streetwear outfits as well as professional ones.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Incorporating Accessories\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Grab 1 large handbag for everyday wear.\", \"描述\": \"If you carry a purse with you, make sure it can fit all of your essentials, like your wallet, keys, phone, makeup, and any other items you travel around with daily. Use a structured handbag in a professional environment or a more slouchy one to keep it casual.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy a backpack to take your things on the go.\", \"描述\": \"If a handbag isn’t big enough for you or you prefer a sporty look, invest in a large backpack to hold your phone, keys, and wallet, as well as your laptop, water bottle, or books. Backpacks are especially helpful if you spend a lot of time outside the house.\\nTry to find a waterproof backpack to protect your things from the rain and make your backpack last longer.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add in jewelry or watches slowly.\", \"描述\": \"Although pieces like necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and watches aren’t totally necessary to wear an outfit, they do make it feel more complete. As you start wearing your new wardrobe, buy pieces of jewelry in the same color scheme as your clothes to complement your new look.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select a few scarves and hats to keep you warm.\", \"描述\": \"If the winters where you live get super cold, invest in a few wool or cotton scarves and hats to bundle up in. If you live in a warmer climate, you can find a few silk scarves or sun hats to wear instead.\\nBaseball caps are also great for keeping the sun out of your face.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Try on your clothes before you buy them to make sure they fit you well.\\n\", \"If you are buying clothes online, make sure the store has a return policy in case they don’t fit you.\\n\", \"Finding your style is a process. Don’t be afraid to try on new and different pieces to find out what you like!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,614 |
How to Build a Washer Game
|
1. Getting Started
1-1. Know where you will be playing.
Because the game is usually played outdoors, make sure you create a durable box able to withstand the elements as well as the pounding from the game itself. If you will be playing at a specific location, make sure to measure the dimensions to create a suitable board.
Know what type of surface you’ll be playing on. Some surfaces, like sand, may need extra design features to increase the durability of your board.
1-2. Create a budget.
Whether you’re creating a simple box for your background or a mobile box with wheels and a graphic design, budget how much time and resources will be needed to create your design.
1-3. Know your playing style.
There are a lot of variations to the washer game. Whether your rules require 3 hole boards, one hole boxes, nesting 3 hole boards, octagon boxes, or washer pits, make sure you design your board accordingly.
2. Cutting Your Materials
2-1. Gather your materials.
Head to your local hardware store for two 6-ft two-by-fours, two 17-by-17-inch squares of plywood, two 14-by-14-inch squares of carpet (or fake grass) and two 3.5-inch pieces of PVC pipe, each with a 4-inch diameter.
2-2. Cut four pieces of two-by-four to create a square.
Cut each two-by-four to 17 inches in length. Create a 17-by-17-inch square by cutting the ends of each of these four two-by-fours at 45-degree angles with a miter saw or box saw. Ensure that they can fit together to form perfect 90-degree angles in order to give the corners of the box a more finished look. Alternatively, cut two pieces of two-by-four to 14 inches (35.6 cm) and another two to 17 inches (43.2 cm). Place the shorter pieces between the longer ones; this will still give you a 17-by-17-inch square without the hassle of making angled cuts.
You may use plywood, OSB, or any type of wood that suits your budget and playing needs.
Be sure to lay the two-by-fours down on their narrow sides, not on the fat sides.
2-3. Create the targets using PVC pipe.
Cut PVC pipe into two sections of about 3 ½”. You can also use other type of pipe but PVC is best for durability and budget.
2-4. Draw an X on the backside of your square of carpet.
Flip the carpet face-down and, using a straight edge, trace two diagonal lines connecting the opposite corners. This will mark the center of the square.
2-5. Trace the PVC pipe onto the center of the backside of the carpet.
Center it according to the X you drew in the previous step and, using a marker, trace both the inside and the outside of the pipe onto the fabric.
2-6. Cut the traced areas out of the carpet.
Using the utility knife, first cut the smaller circle out of the carpet. Try to keep the shape intact and set it aside, as you will need it later. Then, cut the remaining larger circle out of the carpet. Since you will not need this piece later, don’t worry about keeping it intact.
3. Assembling the Boxes
3-1. Screw the square frame together.
Make sure the wood screws you use are long enough to pierce both pieces of two-by-four at each corner. Use a power drill to ensure that the ends are firmly locked together.
3-2. Measure and cut a piece of square plywood.
Create the square piece of plywood to fit beneath the square frame. Use the frame to trace the cutting lines directly onto your plywood. Cut the plywood once you have measured the shape.
3-3. Screw the square of plywood to the bottom of the square frame.
Simply flip the nicer side of the frame downwards (if applicable), place the plywood on top, and screw down through the plywood into the two-by-fours. Make sure your screws aren’t too short for the plywood or too long for the two-by-fours.
3-4. Assemble the carpet and PVC pipe inside the wooden box to test the fit.
First, place the carpet right-side-up in the box to make sure it fits snugly within the square frame. Then, place the PVC pipe in the center of the carpet; you may have to twist it back and forth a few times as you press it into the hole (or even lift the carpet and insert it from the back) to get it all the way through. Finally, insert the saved circle of carpet into the center of the PVC pipe. Make adjustments as necessary.
3-5. Glue the carpet and PVC pipe to the wooden frame.
Do this in the same order in which you test-assembled the pieces. Let the glue set for the amount of time recommended on the bottle.
For additional stability, use finishing nails and a punch to nail the carpet to the plywood base.
When applying construction adhesive, be sure to press the the PVC pipe and carpet firmly together.
You may also use 1’ L brackets or a 4” toilet flange to firmly set the PVC pipe.
4. Finishing The Boards
4-1. Choose your finished look.
Whether you add graphic logos or wheels for transportation, your boards are meant to accommodate your game play. Make sure that they are durable.
4-2. Paint and prime the box.
Depending on the paint you choose, you may also need to use primer to increase durability and protection. This will help cover screw heads and scratches. You might even want to paint the colors according to the way you plan to distribute points. (See Rules for pointers.)
Alternatively, you could use Polyurethane to help seal and stain the wood.
4-3. Create the second washer box.
Repeat the exact same steps of cutting your materials, assembly, and finish to create a second washer box.
Tips
If you do not have the time or money to create a washer board, simply bury a cup, jar or can into the ground and clear a playing area around it.
Give ample time for adhesive glue to dry. Read the label for best results.
Warnings
Be extremely careful with the utility knife; it’s extremely sharp and is easy to lose your grip on.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:15",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Started\\n1-1. Know where you will be playing.\\nBecause the game is usually played outdoors, make sure you create a durable box able to withstand the elements as well as the pounding from the game itself. If you will be playing at a specific location, make sure to measure the dimensions to create a suitable board.\\nKnow what type of surface you’ll be playing on. Some surfaces, like sand, may need extra design features to increase the durability of your board.\\n1-2. Create a budget.\\nWhether you’re creating a simple box for your background or a mobile box with wheels and a graphic design, budget how much time and resources will be needed to create your design.\\n1-3. Know your playing style.\\nThere are a lot of variations to the washer game. Whether your rules require 3 hole boards, one hole boxes, nesting 3 hole boards, octagon boxes, or washer pits, make sure you design your board accordingly.\\n2. Cutting Your Materials\\n2-1. Gather your materials.\\nHead to your local hardware store for two 6-ft two-by-fours, two 17-by-17-inch squares of plywood, two 14-by-14-inch squares of carpet (or fake grass) and two 3.5-inch pieces of PVC pipe, each with a 4-inch diameter.\\n2-2. Cut four pieces of two-by-four to create a square.\\nCut each two-by-four to 17 inches in length. Create a 17-by-17-inch square by cutting the ends of each of these four two-by-fours at 45-degree angles with a miter saw or box saw. Ensure that they can fit together to form perfect 90-degree angles in order to give the corners of the box a more finished look. Alternatively, cut two pieces of two-by-four to 14 inches (35.6 cm) and another two to 17 inches (43.2 cm). Place the shorter pieces between the longer ones; this will still give you a 17-by-17-inch square without the hassle of making angled cuts.\\nYou may use plywood, OSB, or any type of wood that suits your budget and playing needs.\\nBe sure to lay the two-by-fours down on their narrow sides, not on the fat sides.\\n2-3. Create the targets using PVC pipe.\\nCut PVC pipe into two sections of about 3 ½”. You can also use other type of pipe but PVC is best for durability and budget.\\n2-4. Draw an X on the backside of your square of carpet.\\nFlip the carpet face-down and, using a straight edge, trace two diagonal lines connecting the opposite corners. This will mark the center of the square.\\n2-5. Trace the PVC pipe onto the center of the backside of the carpet.\\nCenter it according to the X you drew in the previous step and, using a marker, trace both the inside and the outside of the pipe onto the fabric.\\n2-6. Cut the traced areas out of the carpet.\\nUsing the utility knife, first cut the smaller circle out of the carpet. Try to keep the shape intact and set it aside, as you will need it later. Then, cut the remaining larger circle out of the carpet. Since you will not need this piece later, don’t worry about keeping it intact.\\n3. Assembling the Boxes\\n3-1. Screw the square frame together.\\nMake sure the wood screws you use are long enough to pierce both pieces of two-by-four at each corner. Use a power drill to ensure that the ends are firmly locked together.\\n3-2. Measure and cut a piece of square plywood.\\nCreate the square piece of plywood to fit beneath the square frame. Use the frame to trace the cutting lines directly onto your plywood. Cut the plywood once you have measured the shape.\\n3-3. Screw the square of plywood to the bottom of the square frame.\\nSimply flip the nicer side of the frame downwards (if applicable), place the plywood on top, and screw down through the plywood into the two-by-fours. Make sure your screws aren’t too short for the plywood or too long for the two-by-fours.\\n3-4. Assemble the carpet and PVC pipe inside the wooden box to test the fit.\\nFirst, place the carpet right-side-up in the box to make sure it fits snugly within the square frame. Then, place the PVC pipe in the center of the carpet; you may have to twist it back and forth a few times as you press it into the hole (or even lift the carpet and insert it from the back) to get it all the way through. Finally, insert the saved circle of carpet into the center of the PVC pipe. Make adjustments as necessary.\\n3-5. Glue the carpet and PVC pipe to the wooden frame.\\nDo this in the same order in which you test-assembled the pieces. Let the glue set for the amount of time recommended on the bottle.\\nFor additional stability, use finishing nails and a punch to nail the carpet to the plywood base.\\nWhen applying construction adhesive, be sure to press the the PVC pipe and carpet firmly together.\\nYou may also use 1’ L brackets or a 4” toilet flange to firmly set the PVC pipe.\\n4. Finishing The Boards\\n4-1. Choose your finished look.\\nWhether you add graphic logos or wheels for transportation, your boards are meant to accommodate your game play. Make sure that they are durable.\\n4-2. Paint and prime the box.\\nDepending on the paint you choose, you may also need to use primer to increase durability and protection. This will help cover screw heads and scratches. You might even want to paint the colors according to the way you plan to distribute points. (See Rules for pointers.)\\nAlternatively, you could use Polyurethane to help seal and stain the wood.\\n4-3. Create the second washer box.\\nRepeat the exact same steps of cutting your materials, assembly, and finish to create a second washer box.\\nTips\\nIf you do not have the time or money to create a washer board, simply bury a cup, jar or can into the ground and clear a playing area around it.\\nGive ample time for adhesive glue to dry. Read the label for best results.\\nWarnings\\nBe extremely careful with the utility knife; it’s extremely sharp and is easy to lose your grip on.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"“Washers” is also known as “Southern horseshoes” and involves throwing washers into a box to score points. Create your own board with some two-by-fours, PVC piping, carpet, and paint. Remember to measure your materials and set a budget for your project to ensure that you create a board specific to your playing needs.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Started\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know where you will be playing.\", \"描述\": \"Because the game is usually played outdoors, make sure you create a durable box able to withstand the elements as well as the pounding from the game itself. If you will be playing at a specific location, make sure to measure the dimensions to create a suitable board.\\nKnow what type of surface you’ll be playing on. Some surfaces, like sand, may need extra design features to increase the durability of your board.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a budget.\", \"描述\": \"Whether you’re creating a simple box for your background or a mobile box with wheels and a graphic design, budget how much time and resources will be needed to create your design.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Know your playing style.\", \"描述\": \"There are a lot of variations to the washer game. Whether your rules require 3 hole boards, one hole boxes, nesting 3 hole boards, octagon boxes, or washer pits, make sure you design your board accordingly.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cutting Your Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"Head to your local hardware store for two 6-ft two-by-fours, two 17-by-17-inch squares of plywood, two 14-by-14-inch squares of carpet (or fake grass) and two 3.5-inch pieces of PVC pipe, each with a 4-inch diameter.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut four pieces of two-by-four to create a square.\", \"描述\": \"Cut each two-by-four to 17 inches in length. Create a 17-by-17-inch square by cutting the ends of each of these four two-by-fours at 45-degree angles with a miter saw or box saw. Ensure that they can fit together to form perfect 90-degree angles in order to give the corners of the box a more finished look. Alternatively, cut two pieces of two-by-four to 14 inches (35.6 cm) and another two to 17 inches (43.2 cm). Place the shorter pieces between the longer ones; this will still give you a 17-by-17-inch square without the hassle of making angled cuts.\\nYou may use plywood, OSB, or any type of wood that suits your budget and playing needs.\\nBe sure to lay the two-by-fours down on their narrow sides, not on the fat sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create the targets using PVC pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Cut PVC pipe into two sections of about 3 ½”. You can also use other type of pipe but PVC is best for durability and budget.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Draw an X on the backside of your square of carpet.\", \"描述\": \"Flip the carpet face-down and, using a straight edge, trace two diagonal lines connecting the opposite corners. This will mark the center of the square.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Trace the PVC pipe onto the center of the backside of the carpet.\", \"描述\": \"Center it according to the X you drew in the previous step and, using a marker, trace both the inside and the outside of the pipe onto the fabric.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut the traced areas out of the carpet.\", \"描述\": \"Using the utility knife, first cut the smaller circle out of the carpet. Try to keep the shape intact and set it aside, as you will need it later. Then, cut the remaining larger circle out of the carpet. Since you will not need this piece later, don’t worry about keeping it intact.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Boxes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Screw the square frame together.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the wood screws you use are long enough to pierce both pieces of two-by-four at each corner. Use a power drill to ensure that the ends are firmly locked together.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut a piece of square plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Create the square piece of plywood to fit beneath the square frame. Use the frame to trace the cutting lines directly onto your plywood. Cut the plywood once you have measured the shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw the square of plywood to the bottom of the square frame.\", \"描述\": \"Simply flip the nicer side of the frame downwards (if applicable), place the plywood on top, and screw down through the plywood into the two-by-fours. Make sure your screws aren’t too short for the plywood or too long for the two-by-fours.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Assemble the carpet and PVC pipe inside the wooden box to test the fit.\", \"描述\": \"First, place the carpet right-side-up in the box to make sure it fits snugly within the square frame. Then, place the PVC pipe in the center of the carpet; you may have to twist it back and forth a few times as you press it into the hole (or even lift the carpet and insert it from the back) to get it all the way through. Finally, insert the saved circle of carpet into the center of the PVC pipe. Make adjustments as necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Glue the carpet and PVC pipe to the wooden frame.\", \"描述\": \"Do this in the same order in which you test-assembled the pieces. Let the glue set for the amount of time recommended on the bottle.\\nFor additional stability, use finishing nails and a punch to nail the carpet to the plywood base.\\nWhen applying construction adhesive, be sure to press the the PVC pipe and carpet firmly together.\\nYou may also use 1’ L brackets or a 4” toilet flange to firmly set the PVC pipe.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finishing The Boards\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose your finished look.\", \"描述\": \"Whether you add graphic logos or wheels for transportation, your boards are meant to accommodate your game play. Make sure that they are durable.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint and prime the box.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the paint you choose, you may also need to use primer to increase durability and protection. This will help cover screw heads and scratches. You might even want to paint the colors according to the way you plan to distribute points. (See Rules for pointers.)\\nAlternatively, you could use Polyurethane to help seal and stain the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create the second washer box.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat the exact same steps of cutting your materials, assembly, and finish to create a second washer box.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you do not have the time or money to create a washer board, simply bury a cup, jar or can into the ground and clear a playing area around it.\\n\", \"Give ample time for adhesive glue to dry. Read the label for best results.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be extremely careful with the utility knife; it’s extremely sharp and is easy to lose your grip on.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,615 |
How to Build a Water Hand Pump
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1. Building the water hand pump
1-1. Build the foot valve assembly.
The purpose of the foot valve is to allow water into the cylinder without allowing it to fall back out. (The cylinder is the lower pipe section containing the foot valve and plunder assemblies.) It is composed of, from bottom to top:
a. 2in cap (not shown)
b. 2in pipe screen with drilled holes (about 9in long)
c. 2in coupler
d. 2x3/4 reducer
e. 2x3/4 reducer with the lip filed out to allow the 3/4in pipe to slide all the way through.
f. 2in coupler (not shown in assembled image)
g. 3/4in pipe (about 4 in long)
h. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter
i. 3/4in brass check valve
j. 2in pipe about 36in long (not shown). It fits into coupler (f).
1-2. Build the plunger assembly.
The plunger serves two purposes. First, it provides a seal with the cylinder to generate suction. Second, it contains a second check valve to allow water in the upper cylinder.
a. 3/4in threaded pipe extender. Screws into bottom of check valve (d).
b. Spacers. The purpose of the spacers is to keep the gasket rigid. They should not contact the cylinder. You can use a 2in hole saw to score a ring in each side, then use a 1-1/8in Forstner bit to bore out the inner hole. The hole saw can be again used to finish the outer cut. These can be made from wood or plastic.
c. Leather gasket. Can also be made from rubber. Carefully cut this to fit snugly in the cylinder and on the pipe extender. When inserting the assembly in the cylinder to test the fit, first soften the leather with water. Otherwise, you will trim it too small and need to start over.
d.3/4in brass check valvee.3/4in slip-male thread adapter
f.3/4in pipe 6in long with drilled holes. This allows water to enter the upper cylinder after passing through the check valve.
g.3/4x1/2in slip reducer
h.Rubber stopper. Held in place by the 1/2in pipe (i). Prevents water coming up the pipe (i).
i.1/2in pipe
1-3. Identify how much connecting pipe is needed.
Pipe is needed to connect the cylinder to a pump head and the plunger to a handle at the surface. The amount of pipe depends on the depth of the static water level in the well. From the top of the cylinder, you can reduce the pipe down to a 1-1/4in diameter pipe to save on cost and weight. However, it does increase the force required to pull the water to the surface (hydraulic principles).
Before measuring the static water depth and well depth, first remove the well cap. This will reveal a secondary cap and the electrical connections. This cap is cemented to a pipe which connects to the pitless adapter (the device that holds the pump in place and connects the water from the pump to the line leading to the house below the frost level). You do not need to remove this cap or lift the pump at this time, as you only need to measure the static water depth.
To measure the static water depth, tie a weight to some string or light rope. It is difficult to hear or see when the weight enters the water. Therefore, lower the weight down a few feet and bring it back up, feeling for water on the rope. Continue lowering the rope a couple feet further each time, until the rope comes up wet. Each time, mark the rope at the top of the well before pulling the rope out. Measure the distance from the weight to highest mark on the rope. This is the static water depth.
Measuring the total depth of the well is more of a challenge because it is difficult to know when you hit bottom (or the top of the pump). Using fishing line may be helpful.
Nevertheless, the static water depth is the important measurement. This indicates how much pipe (both the 1-1/4in outer pipe and the 1/2in inner pipe) is needed. To cover the 15 feet (4.6 m), and have the cylinder well below the static water level, use 20 feet (6.1 m) of pipe. The pipe will be connected with threaded couplers to aid in assembly and disassembly without cement.
One additional detail to mention here is to drill a small hole in the side of the 1-1/4in pipe a few feet below the ground level. This will slowly drain water from the top of the pipe back into the well and thus prevent freeze damage.
1-4. Build the pump head assembly.
The pump head diverts the water coming up from the well out to a spigot. The 1/2in pipe from the plunger extends up to pump head and through the top where a handle is attached to operate the pump.
a.1-1/4x1/2in reducer. Ream out the bore with a 7/8in Forstner bit to allow the 1/2in pipe to slide freely.
b.1-1/4x3/4in threaded T coupler.
c.3/4in slip-male thread adapter
d.3/4in pipe
e.3/4in 45° elbow
f.3/4in pipe
g.3/4x1/2in slip-male thread reducer (optional)
h.Brass female pipe, male hose adapter (optional)
To prevent water seeping up through the 1-1/4x1/2in reducer (a) around the pipe handle a gasket (b) needs to be inserted. A washer (c) holds the gasket tight to the reducer and a 3/4x1/2in reducer (d) (cut short and reamed out) is cemented into the reducer (a) to hold the washer and gasket in place.
1-5. Build the handle and lever arm.
At the top of the 1/2in pipe, a T handle can be added for direct manipulation of the pump. A lever handle can also be attached to the pump head assembly if needed for deeper wells.
You might also add to your to-do list an alternative well cap that will accept the pump head assembly.
1-6. Protect the PVC pipe.
UV rays from the sun will make PVC pipe brittle and can weaken cemented joints. Any exposed PVC pipe can be spray painted with an opaque paint to protect against this effect.
1-7. Understand how the pump works.
When the pump handle is pulled up, water is drawn in to the lower cylinder through the foot valve. When the pump handle is pushed down the water is forced through the check valve above the plunger and into the upper cylinder. When the pump is pulled up again, water is pulled in through the foot valve, and also the water that was pushed into the upper cylinder in the previous cycle is pulled up to the surface.
2. Alternative pump operation
2-1. Make an alternative pump operation if needed.
With the configuration described above, water is lifted to the surface when the handle is pulled up. If not using a lever handle, this may be awkward and/or difficult as you are relying entirely on your arm muscles to lift the water. The pump can be reconfigured to push the water on the down stroke, which would leverage your body weight. To accomplish this, simply connect the 1/2in pipe handle directly to the brass check valve above the plunger. In this configuration, the water will go up the handle and thus require a completely different pump head. (One option is to connect a hose to the T handle used to operate the pump.)
2-2. Be aware that you may prefer the original design for the following reasons:
You may not want the water coming out of the handle.
You might plan to use a lever handle (which pulls the water up when you push down on the handle).
The force of pushing down on the 1/2in pipe to do the work may lead to buckling issues.
The water in the pipe must still be pulled up to the surface with the alternative design.
The alternative assumes the cylinder above the plunger is dry. There is a good chance the gasket will not form a perfect seal and leak water into the chamber anyway.
It is not as easy to drain water from the internal pipe to prevent freeze damage.
2-3. Make alternative pipe configuration.
Another alternative design uses a rigid pusher rod rather than the 1/2in pipe (which could also be employed in the original design above) and a separate supply pipe to the surface. This design uses more materials, may not fit in most wells, and the pump head may be more complicated. This option operates just like the previous one. The only difference is the water pipe and pusher rod are separated.
Tips
A winch may be needed when removing an existing pump from a well.
Attach an eye bolt to the bottom of the cylinder and attach a rope to the surface. It can be used to help lift the hand pump out of the well and also prevent dropping the entire system out of reach down the well.
Anchor equipment and hardware to prevent dropping into the well.
Warnings
Follow all local zoning laws and building codes.
Accessing a well may lead to contamination. Take steps to treat equipment with appropriate disinfectants.
Use hearing and eye protection.
Seek professional help if you are not comfortable accessing or modifying an existing well system.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:15",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the water hand pump\\n1-1. Build the foot valve assembly.\\nThe purpose of the foot valve is to allow water into the cylinder without allowing it to fall back out. (The cylinder is the lower pipe section containing the foot valve and plunder assemblies.) It is composed of, from bottom to top:\\na. 2in cap (not shown)\\nb. 2in pipe screen with drilled holes (about 9in long)\\nc. 2in coupler\\nd. 2x3/4 reducer\\ne. 2x3/4 reducer with the lip filed out to allow the 3/4in pipe to slide all the way through.\\nf. 2in coupler (not shown in assembled image)\\ng. 3/4in pipe (about 4 in long)\\nh. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter\\ni. 3/4in brass check valve\\nj. 2in pipe about 36in long (not shown). It fits into coupler (f).\\n1-2. Build the plunger assembly.\\nThe plunger serves two purposes. First, it provides a seal with the cylinder to generate suction. Second, it contains a second check valve to allow water in the upper cylinder.\\na. 3/4in threaded pipe extender. Screws into bottom of check valve (d).\\nb. Spacers. The purpose of the spacers is to keep the gasket rigid. They should not contact the cylinder. You can use a 2in hole saw to score a ring in each side, then use a 1-1/8in Forstner bit to bore out the inner hole. The hole saw can be again used to finish the outer cut. These can be made from wood or plastic.\\nc. Leather gasket. Can also be made from rubber. Carefully cut this to fit snugly in the cylinder and on the pipe extender. When inserting the assembly in the cylinder to test the fit, first soften the leather with water. Otherwise, you will trim it too small and need to start over.\\nd.3/4in brass check valvee.3/4in slip-male thread adapter\\nf.3/4in pipe 6in long with drilled holes. This allows water to enter the upper cylinder after passing through the check valve.\\ng.3/4x1/2in slip reducer\\nh.Rubber stopper. Held in place by the 1/2in pipe (i). Prevents water coming up the pipe (i).\\ni.1/2in pipe\\n1-3. Identify how much connecting pipe is needed.\\nPipe is needed to connect the cylinder to a pump head and the plunger to a handle at the surface. The amount of pipe depends on the depth of the static water level in the well. From the top of the cylinder, you can reduce the pipe down to a 1-1/4in diameter pipe to save on cost and weight. However, it does increase the force required to pull the water to the surface (hydraulic principles).\\nBefore measuring the static water depth and well depth, first remove the well cap. This will reveal a secondary cap and the electrical connections. This cap is cemented to a pipe which connects to the pitless adapter (the device that holds the pump in place and connects the water from the pump to the line leading to the house below the frost level). You do not need to remove this cap or lift the pump at this time, as you only need to measure the static water depth.\\nTo measure the static water depth, tie a weight to some string or light rope. It is difficult to hear or see when the weight enters the water. Therefore, lower the weight down a few feet and bring it back up, feeling for water on the rope. Continue lowering the rope a couple feet further each time, until the rope comes up wet. Each time, mark the rope at the top of the well before pulling the rope out. Measure the distance from the weight to highest mark on the rope. This is the static water depth.\\nMeasuring the total depth of the well is more of a challenge because it is difficult to know when you hit bottom (or the top of the pump). Using fishing line may be helpful.\\nNevertheless, the static water depth is the important measurement. This indicates how much pipe (both the 1-1/4in outer pipe and the 1/2in inner pipe) is needed. To cover the 15 feet (4.6 m), and have the cylinder well below the static water level, use 20 feet (6.1 m) of pipe. The pipe will be connected with threaded couplers to aid in assembly and disassembly without cement.\\nOne additional detail to mention here is to drill a small hole in the side of the 1-1/4in pipe a few feet below the ground level. This will slowly drain water from the top of the pipe back into the well and thus prevent freeze damage.\\n1-4. Build the pump head assembly.\\nThe pump head diverts the water coming up from the well out to a spigot. The 1/2in pipe from the plunger extends up to pump head and through the top where a handle is attached to operate the pump.\\na.1-1/4x1/2in reducer. Ream out the bore with a 7/8in Forstner bit to allow the 1/2in pipe to slide freely.\\nb.1-1/4x3/4in threaded T coupler.\\nc.3/4in slip-male thread adapter\\nd.3/4in pipe\\ne.3/4in 45° elbow\\nf.3/4in pipe\\ng.3/4x1/2in slip-male thread reducer (optional)\\nh.Brass female pipe, male hose adapter (optional)\\nTo prevent water seeping up through the 1-1/4x1/2in reducer (a) around the pipe handle a gasket (b) needs to be inserted. A washer (c) holds the gasket tight to the reducer and a 3/4x1/2in reducer (d) (cut short and reamed out) is cemented into the reducer (a) to hold the washer and gasket in place.\\n1-5. Build the handle and lever arm.\\nAt the top of the 1/2in pipe, a T handle can be added for direct manipulation of the pump. A lever handle can also be attached to the pump head assembly if needed for deeper wells.\\nYou might also add to your to-do list an alternative well cap that will accept the pump head assembly.\\n1-6. Protect the PVC pipe.\\nUV rays from the sun will make PVC pipe brittle and can weaken cemented joints. Any exposed PVC pipe can be spray painted with an opaque paint to protect against this effect.\\n1-7. Understand how the pump works.\\nWhen the pump handle is pulled up, water is drawn in to the lower cylinder through the foot valve. When the pump handle is pushed down the water is forced through the check valve above the plunger and into the upper cylinder. When the pump is pulled up again, water is pulled in through the foot valve, and also the water that was pushed into the upper cylinder in the previous cycle is pulled up to the surface.\\n2. Alternative pump operation\\n2-1. Make an alternative pump operation if needed.\\nWith the configuration described above, water is lifted to the surface when the handle is pulled up. If not using a lever handle, this may be awkward and/or difficult as you are relying entirely on your arm muscles to lift the water. The pump can be reconfigured to push the water on the down stroke, which would leverage your body weight. To accomplish this, simply connect the 1/2in pipe handle directly to the brass check valve above the plunger. In this configuration, the water will go up the handle and thus require a completely different pump head. (One option is to connect a hose to the T handle used to operate the pump.)\\n2-2. Be aware that you may prefer the original design for the following reasons:\\nYou may not want the water coming out of the handle.\\nYou might plan to use a lever handle (which pulls the water up when you push down on the handle).\\nThe force of pushing down on the 1/2in pipe to do the work may lead to buckling issues.\\nThe water in the pipe must still be pulled up to the surface with the alternative design.\\nThe alternative assumes the cylinder above the plunger is dry. There is a good chance the gasket will not form a perfect seal and leak water into the chamber anyway.\\nIt is not as easy to drain water from the internal pipe to prevent freeze damage.\\n2-3. Make alternative pipe configuration.\\nAnother alternative design uses a rigid pusher rod rather than the 1/2in pipe (which could also be employed in the original design above) and a separate supply pipe to the surface. This design uses more materials, may not fit in most wells, and the pump head may be more complicated. This option operates just like the previous one. The only difference is the water pipe and pusher rod are separated.\\nTips\\nA winch may be needed when removing an existing pump from a well.\\nAttach an eye bolt to the bottom of the cylinder and attach a rope to the surface. It can be used to help lift the hand pump out of the well and also prevent dropping the entire system out of reach down the well.\\nAnchor equipment and hardware to prevent dropping into the well.\\nWarnings\\nFollow all local zoning laws and building codes.\\nAccessing a well may lead to contamination. Take steps to treat equipment with appropriate disinfectants.\\nUse hearing and eye protection.\\nSeek professional help if you are not comfortable accessing or modifying an existing well system.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This hand pump can be inserted into an existing well to obtain water during a period of prolonged loss of electrical power. While high quality commercial hand pumps are available for as much as $900, this effective DIY alternative costs about $100. All pipe and fittings are Schedule 40 PVC material.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the water hand pump\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build the foot valve assembly.\", \"描述\": \"The purpose of the foot valve is to allow water into the cylinder without allowing it to fall back out. (The cylinder is the lower pipe section containing the foot valve and plunder assemblies.) It is composed of, from bottom to top:\\na. 2in cap (not shown)\\nb. 2in pipe screen with drilled holes (about 9in long)\\nc. 2in coupler\\nd. 2x3/4 reducer\\ne. 2x3/4 reducer with the lip filed out to allow the 3/4in pipe to slide all the way through.\\nf. 2in coupler (not shown in assembled image)\\ng. 3/4in pipe (about 4 in long)\\nh. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter\\ni. 3/4in brass check valve\\nj. 2in pipe about 36in long (not shown). It fits into coupler (f).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the plunger assembly.\", \"描述\": \"The plunger serves two purposes. First, it provides a seal with the cylinder to generate suction. Second, it contains a second check valve to allow water in the upper cylinder.\\na. 3/4in threaded pipe extender. Screws into bottom of check valve (d).\\nb. Spacers. The purpose of the spacers is to keep the gasket rigid. They should not contact the cylinder. You can use a 2in hole saw to score a ring in each side, then use a 1-1/8in Forstner bit to bore out the inner hole. The hole saw can be again used to finish the outer cut. These can be made from wood or plastic.\\nc. Leather gasket. Can also be made from rubber. Carefully cut this to fit snugly in the cylinder and on the pipe extender. When inserting the assembly in the cylinder to test the fit, first soften the leather with water. Otherwise, you will trim it too small and need to start over.\\nd.3/4in brass check valvee.3/4in slip-male thread adapter\\nf.3/4in pipe 6in long with drilled holes. This allows water to enter the upper cylinder after passing through the check valve.\\ng.3/4x1/2in slip reducer\\nh.Rubber stopper. Held in place by the 1/2in pipe (i). Prevents water coming up the pipe (i).\\ni.1/2in pipe\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Identify how much connecting pipe is needed.\", \"描述\": \"Pipe is needed to connect the cylinder to a pump head and the plunger to a handle at the surface. The amount of pipe depends on the depth of the static water level in the well. From the top of the cylinder, you can reduce the pipe down to a 1-1/4in diameter pipe to save on cost and weight. However, it does increase the force required to pull the water to the surface (hydraulic principles).\\nBefore measuring the static water depth and well depth, first remove the well cap. This will reveal a secondary cap and the electrical connections. This cap is cemented to a pipe which connects to the pitless adapter (the device that holds the pump in place and connects the water from the pump to the line leading to the house below the frost level). You do not need to remove this cap or lift the pump at this time, as you only need to measure the static water depth.\\nTo measure the static water depth, tie a weight to some string or light rope. It is difficult to hear or see when the weight enters the water. Therefore, lower the weight down a few feet and bring it back up, feeling for water on the rope. Continue lowering the rope a couple feet further each time, until the rope comes up wet. Each time, mark the rope at the top of the well before pulling the rope out. Measure the distance from the weight to highest mark on the rope. This is the static water depth.\\nMeasuring the total depth of the well is more of a challenge because it is difficult to know when you hit bottom (or the top of the pump). Using fishing line may be helpful.\\nNevertheless, the static water depth is the important measurement. This indicates how much pipe (both the 1-1/4in outer pipe and the 1/2in inner pipe) is needed. To cover the 15 feet (4.6 m), and have the cylinder well below the static water level, use 20 feet (6.1 m) of pipe. The pipe will be connected with threaded couplers to aid in assembly and disassembly without cement.\\nOne additional detail to mention here is to drill a small hole in the side of the 1-1/4in pipe a few feet below the ground level. This will slowly drain water from the top of the pipe back into the well and thus prevent freeze damage.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build the pump head assembly.\", \"描述\": \"The pump head diverts the water coming up from the well out to a spigot. The 1/2in pipe from the plunger extends up to pump head and through the top where a handle is attached to operate the pump.\\na.1-1/4x1/2in reducer. Ream out the bore with a 7/8in Forstner bit to allow the 1/2in pipe to slide freely.\\nb.1-1/4x3/4in threaded T coupler.\\nc.3/4in slip-male thread adapter\\nd.3/4in pipe\\ne.3/4in 45° elbow\\nf.3/4in pipe\\ng.3/4x1/2in slip-male thread reducer (optional)\\nh.Brass female pipe, male hose adapter (optional)\\nTo prevent water seeping up through the 1-1/4x1/2in reducer (a) around the pipe handle a gasket (b) needs to be inserted. A washer (c) holds the gasket tight to the reducer and a 3/4x1/2in reducer (d) (cut short and reamed out) is cemented into the reducer (a) to hold the washer and gasket in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build the handle and lever arm.\", \"描述\": \"At the top of the 1/2in pipe, a T handle can be added for direct manipulation of the pump. A lever handle can also be attached to the pump head assembly if needed for deeper wells.\\nYou might also add to your to-do list an alternative well cap that will accept the pump head assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Protect the PVC pipe.\", \"描述\": \"UV rays from the sun will make PVC pipe brittle and can weaken cemented joints. Any exposed PVC pipe can be spray painted with an opaque paint to protect against this effect.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Understand how the pump works.\", \"描述\": \"When the pump handle is pulled up, water is drawn in to the lower cylinder through the foot valve. When the pump handle is pushed down the water is forced through the check valve above the plunger and into the upper cylinder. When the pump is pulled up again, water is pulled in through the foot valve, and also the water that was pushed into the upper cylinder in the previous cycle is pulled up to the surface.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Alternative pump operation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make an alternative pump operation if needed.\", \"描述\": \"With the configuration described above, water is lifted to the surface when the handle is pulled up. If not using a lever handle, this may be awkward and/or difficult as you are relying entirely on your arm muscles to lift the water. The pump can be reconfigured to push the water on the down stroke, which would leverage your body weight. To accomplish this, simply connect the 1/2in pipe handle directly to the brass check valve above the plunger. In this configuration, the water will go up the handle and thus require a completely different pump head. (One option is to connect a hose to the T handle used to operate the pump.)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Be aware that you may prefer the original design for the following reasons:\", \"描述\": \"You may not want the water coming out of the handle.\\nYou might plan to use a lever handle (which pulls the water up when you push down on the handle).\\nThe force of pushing down on the 1/2in pipe to do the work may lead to buckling issues.\\nThe water in the pipe must still be pulled up to the surface with the alternative design.\\nThe alternative assumes the cylinder above the plunger is dry. There is a good chance the gasket will not form a perfect seal and leak water into the chamber anyway.\\nIt is not as easy to drain water from the internal pipe to prevent freeze damage.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make alternative pipe configuration.\", \"描述\": \"Another alternative design uses a rigid pusher rod rather than the 1/2in pipe (which could also be employed in the original design above) and a separate supply pipe to the surface. This design uses more materials, may not fit in most wells, and the pump head may be more complicated. This option operates just like the previous one. The only difference is the water pipe and pusher rod are separated.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"A winch may be needed when removing an existing pump from a well.\\n\", \"Attach an eye bolt to the bottom of the cylinder and attach a rope to the surface. It can be used to help lift the hand pump out of the well and also prevent dropping the entire system out of reach down the well.\\n\", \"Anchor equipment and hardware to prevent dropping into the well.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Follow all local zoning laws and building codes.\\n\", \"Accessing a well may lead to contamination. Take steps to treat equipment with appropriate disinfectants.\\n\", \"Use hearing and eye protection.\\n\", \"Seek professional help if you are not comfortable accessing or modifying an existing well system.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,616 |
How to Build a Water Pump
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1. Assembling the Impeller
1-1. Fit a PVC pipe into 1 of the branches of a PVC tee socket.
Take a 10 in (25 cm) long, 1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter PVC pipe and slide it into 1 of the branch openings of a 1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter PVC tee socket, leaving the other end open. Push the pipe far enough into the tee socket to hold it securely without blocking the run opening, which is the single opening that branches into 2.
You may need to warm up the end of the PVC pipe in hot water to soften it enough to fit into the tee socket.
Look for PVC pipes and PVC tee sockets at hardware stores, home improvement stores, department stores, and online.
1-2. Insert a 3 in (7.6 cm) long PVC pipe into the run of the tee socket.
Once the longer PVC pipe has been fitted into 1 of the branch openings of the tee socket, take a smaller length of pipe and slide it into the run opening. Push it far enough into the tee socket to be held in place, but not so far that it’s flush against the back wall of the tee socket.
If you insert the pipe too far into the tee socket, the water won’t be able to flow through it.
1-3. Cut sheet metal to fit the diameter of the pipe for the impeller blade.
Take a strip of sheet metal about ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) thick and place it on top of the PVC pipe. Use a marker to trace the size of the inside of the pipe over the piece of metal. Take a pair of tin snips or wire cutters to trim the sheet metal to size.
Slide the piece of metal in and out of the pipe to make sure it fits.
The sheet metal will serve as the impeller that rotates and drives water through the pump.
1-4. Clip the outer edges of the metal to form a propeller shape.
Take a pair of tin snips or wire cutters and clip the outer edges of the piece of metal about ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) in toward the center. Make 6 cuts around the metal, then pry the edges up slightly so they form a raised, propeller-like shape.
Use your fingers or the tin snips or wire cutters to pry the edges up slightly.
1-5. Insert a bicycle spoke through the center of the metal and solder it.
Find the center of the piece of sheet metal and punch a hole through it with a centerpunch, nail, or another sharp object. Slide a 10 in (25 cm) bicycle spoke through the hole so the sheet metal is on the end of the spoke. Take a soldering iron and apply solder to the top and bottom of the sheet metal to bond it to the spoke.
If you aren’t used to it, practice soldering first before you attach the sheet metal to the bicycle spoke.
You can find soldering irons at craft supply stores and online.
Look for bicycle spokes at bicycle repair shops, department stores, and online.
1-6. Solder a rotor to the other end of the bicycle spoke.
Take a rotor that fits onto a 12V DC motor and connect it to the other end of the bicycle spoke. Use a soldering iron to solder the rotor onto the end of the spoke so it’s firmly connected. Allow the solder to cool completely and wiggle the rotor to make sure it’s securely attached.
If the bicycle spoke is curved at the end, use a pair of wire cutters to clip off the curve so it’s straight.
You can find a rotor for a 12V DC motor at hobby shops that sell parts for remote-controlled airplanes and vehicles, as well as online.
2. Connecting the Motor
2-1. Drill a hole through a piece of plastic to fit the rotor end of the motor.
Place the end of the 12V DC motor with the small rod that the rotor fits onto against a sheet of plastic at least ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) thick and trace the outline of it with a marker. Take a power drill and attach a bit that matches the size of the outline on the plastic. Drill through the plastic to create an opening that fits your motor.
The motor needs to fit snugly into the piece of plastic to create a tighter seal.
You can find thin squares of plastic at hardware stores, home improvement stores, and online.
2-2. Slide the rotor end of the motor into the slot and seal it with hot glue.
Fit the motor into the opening you drilled in the plastic and use a glue gun to apply hot glue where the motor connects to the plastic. Apply pressure to the motor to hold it in place for about 10 seconds so the glue can harden enough to remain attached.
The glue will also help keep water from getting onto the motor when the pump is working.
Look for hot glue and hot glue guns at craft supply stores, department stores, and online.
2-3. Insert the motor into the opening on the rotor to connect it.
Slide the small rod sticking out of the rotor end of the motor into the opening on the rotor that’s connected to the bicycle spoke. Push them together or rotate the rotor to tighten it so they’re securely connected.
Some rotors may click or snap into place on the motor.
2-4. Fit the impeller into the open branch of the tee socket and seal it with glue.
Once the glue is dry, slide the end of the bicycle spoke with the impeller on it into the open branch of the tee socket. Apply hot glue to the top of the branch socket and press the plastic sheet with the motor attached to it against it. Hold it in place for about 10 seconds so it sticks. Allow the glue to dry for about 10 minutes.
Keep pressure on the motor and the tee joint so the glue creates a tight seal.
2-5. Connect the red and black wires on the motor to a 12V battery.
Locate the 2 wires on the back of your 12V DC motor. Connect the red wire to the positive terminal on a 12V battery, which will have a plus sign (+) on it. Then, connect the black wire to the negative terminal, which will have a minus symbol (-) on it. The motor will start turning the impeller blade in the PVC pipe.
2-6. Place the end of the pipe across from the motor into water to pump it.
Once the pump has power from the battery, stick the end of the PVC pipe with the impeller blade into a body of water. The pressure created by the blade will pull the water out and push it through the run opening of the tee socket. Hold the pump in the water for as long as you want to pump it out.
Use a small swimming pool or a bucket of water to test out your pump.
Do not submerge the motor.
Disconnect the black wire first, then the red wire to deactivate the pump.
Warnings
Soldering irons are extremely hot. Be careful not to burn yourself when you’re using it and be sure not to place it down on a flammable surface while it’s still hot.
Always connect the positive wire first, then the negative. When you’re disconnecting them, always remove the negative wire, then the positive.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:15",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling the Impeller\\n1-1. Fit a PVC pipe into 1 of the branches of a PVC tee socket.\\nTake a 10 in (25 cm) long, 1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter PVC pipe and slide it into 1 of the branch openings of a 1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter PVC tee socket, leaving the other end open. Push the pipe far enough into the tee socket to hold it securely without blocking the run opening, which is the single opening that branches into 2.\\nYou may need to warm up the end of the PVC pipe in hot water to soften it enough to fit into the tee socket.\\nLook for PVC pipes and PVC tee sockets at hardware stores, home improvement stores, department stores, and online.\\n1-2. Insert a 3 in (7.6 cm) long PVC pipe into the run of the tee socket.\\nOnce the longer PVC pipe has been fitted into 1 of the branch openings of the tee socket, take a smaller length of pipe and slide it into the run opening. Push it far enough into the tee socket to be held in place, but not so far that it’s flush against the back wall of the tee socket.\\nIf you insert the pipe too far into the tee socket, the water won’t be able to flow through it.\\n1-3. Cut sheet metal to fit the diameter of the pipe for the impeller blade.\\nTake a strip of sheet metal about ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) thick and place it on top of the PVC pipe. Use a marker to trace the size of the inside of the pipe over the piece of metal. Take a pair of tin snips or wire cutters to trim the sheet metal to size.\\nSlide the piece of metal in and out of the pipe to make sure it fits.\\nThe sheet metal will serve as the impeller that rotates and drives water through the pump.\\n1-4. Clip the outer edges of the metal to form a propeller shape.\\nTake a pair of tin snips or wire cutters and clip the outer edges of the piece of metal about ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) in toward the center. Make 6 cuts around the metal, then pry the edges up slightly so they form a raised, propeller-like shape.\\nUse your fingers or the tin snips or wire cutters to pry the edges up slightly.\\n1-5. Insert a bicycle spoke through the center of the metal and solder it.\\nFind the center of the piece of sheet metal and punch a hole through it with a centerpunch, nail, or another sharp object. Slide a 10 in (25 cm) bicycle spoke through the hole so the sheet metal is on the end of the spoke. Take a soldering iron and apply solder to the top and bottom of the sheet metal to bond it to the spoke.\\nIf you aren’t used to it, practice soldering first before you attach the sheet metal to the bicycle spoke.\\nYou can find soldering irons at craft supply stores and online.\\nLook for bicycle spokes at bicycle repair shops, department stores, and online.\\n1-6. Solder a rotor to the other end of the bicycle spoke.\\nTake a rotor that fits onto a 12V DC motor and connect it to the other end of the bicycle spoke. Use a soldering iron to solder the rotor onto the end of the spoke so it’s firmly connected. Allow the solder to cool completely and wiggle the rotor to make sure it’s securely attached.\\nIf the bicycle spoke is curved at the end, use a pair of wire cutters to clip off the curve so it’s straight.\\nYou can find a rotor for a 12V DC motor at hobby shops that sell parts for remote-controlled airplanes and vehicles, as well as online.\\n2. Connecting the Motor\\n2-1. Drill a hole through a piece of plastic to fit the rotor end of the motor.\\nPlace the end of the 12V DC motor with the small rod that the rotor fits onto against a sheet of plastic at least ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) thick and trace the outline of it with a marker. Take a power drill and attach a bit that matches the size of the outline on the plastic. Drill through the plastic to create an opening that fits your motor.\\nThe motor needs to fit snugly into the piece of plastic to create a tighter seal.\\nYou can find thin squares of plastic at hardware stores, home improvement stores, and online.\\n2-2. Slide the rotor end of the motor into the slot and seal it with hot glue.\\nFit the motor into the opening you drilled in the plastic and use a glue gun to apply hot glue where the motor connects to the plastic. Apply pressure to the motor to hold it in place for about 10 seconds so the glue can harden enough to remain attached.\\nThe glue will also help keep water from getting onto the motor when the pump is working.\\nLook for hot glue and hot glue guns at craft supply stores, department stores, and online.\\n2-3. Insert the motor into the opening on the rotor to connect it.\\nSlide the small rod sticking out of the rotor end of the motor into the opening on the rotor that’s connected to the bicycle spoke. Push them together or rotate the rotor to tighten it so they’re securely connected.\\nSome rotors may click or snap into place on the motor.\\n2-4. Fit the impeller into the open branch of the tee socket and seal it with glue.\\nOnce the glue is dry, slide the end of the bicycle spoke with the impeller on it into the open branch of the tee socket. Apply hot glue to the top of the branch socket and press the plastic sheet with the motor attached to it against it. Hold it in place for about 10 seconds so it sticks. Allow the glue to dry for about 10 minutes.\\nKeep pressure on the motor and the tee joint so the glue creates a tight seal.\\n2-5. Connect the red and black wires on the motor to a 12V battery.\\nLocate the 2 wires on the back of your 12V DC motor. Connect the red wire to the positive terminal on a 12V battery, which will have a plus sign (+) on it. Then, connect the black wire to the negative terminal, which will have a minus symbol (-) on it. The motor will start turning the impeller blade in the PVC pipe.\\n2-6. Place the end of the pipe across from the motor into water to pump it.\\nOnce the pump has power from the battery, stick the end of the PVC pipe with the impeller blade into a body of water. The pressure created by the blade will pull the water out and push it through the run opening of the tee socket. Hold the pump in the water for as long as you want to pump it out.\\nUse a small swimming pool or a bucket of water to test out your pump.\\nDo not submerge the motor.\\nDisconnect the black wire first, then the red wire to deactivate the pump.\\nWarnings\\nSoldering irons are extremely hot. Be careful not to burn yourself when you’re using it and be sure not to place it down on a flammable surface while it’s still hot.\\nAlways connect the positive wire first, then the negative. When you’re disconnecting them, always remove the negative wire, then the positive.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building an energy efficient mini water pump is a cool project that you can easily do at home. In this article, we'll teach you everything you need to know to build a fully functional DIY water pump. First, we'll explain how to assemble the pump using simple materials and tools. Then, we'll walk you through how to connect the motor and start pumping water through it. Read on to get started!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Impeller\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fit a PVC pipe into 1 of the branches of a PVC tee socket.\", \"描述\": \"Take a 10 in (25 cm) long, 1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter PVC pipe and slide it into 1 of the branch openings of a 1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter PVC tee socket, leaving the other end open. Push the pipe far enough into the tee socket to hold it securely without blocking the run opening, which is the single opening that branches into 2.\\nYou may need to warm up the end of the PVC pipe in hot water to soften it enough to fit into the tee socket.\\nLook for PVC pipes and PVC tee sockets at hardware stores, home improvement stores, department stores, and online.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Insert a 3 in (7.6 cm) long PVC pipe into the run of the tee socket.\", \"描述\": \"Once the longer PVC pipe has been fitted into 1 of the branch openings of the tee socket, take a smaller length of pipe and slide it into the run opening. Push it far enough into the tee socket to be held in place, but not so far that it’s flush against the back wall of the tee socket.\\nIf you insert the pipe too far into the tee socket, the water won’t be able to flow through it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut sheet metal to fit the diameter of the pipe for the impeller blade.\", \"描述\": \"Take a strip of sheet metal about ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) thick and place it on top of the PVC pipe. Use a marker to trace the size of the inside of the pipe over the piece of metal. Take a pair of tin snips or wire cutters to trim the sheet metal to size.\\nSlide the piece of metal in and out of the pipe to make sure it fits.\\nThe sheet metal will serve as the impeller that rotates and drives water through the pump.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Clip the outer edges of the metal to form a propeller shape.\", \"描述\": \"Take a pair of tin snips or wire cutters and clip the outer edges of the piece of metal about ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) in toward the center. Make 6 cuts around the metal, then pry the edges up slightly so they form a raised, propeller-like shape.\\nUse your fingers or the tin snips or wire cutters to pry the edges up slightly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Insert a bicycle spoke through the center of the metal and solder it.\", \"描述\": \"Find the center of the piece of sheet metal and punch a hole through it with a centerpunch, nail, or another sharp object. Slide a 10 in (25 cm) bicycle spoke through the hole so the sheet metal is on the end of the spoke. Take a soldering iron and apply solder to the top and bottom of the sheet metal to bond it to the spoke.\\nIf you aren’t used to it, practice soldering first before you attach the sheet metal to the bicycle spoke.\\nYou can find soldering irons at craft supply stores and online.\\nLook for bicycle spokes at bicycle repair shops, department stores, and online.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Solder a rotor to the other end of the bicycle spoke.\", \"描述\": \"Take a rotor that fits onto a 12V DC motor and connect it to the other end of the bicycle spoke. Use a soldering iron to solder the rotor onto the end of the spoke so it’s firmly connected. Allow the solder to cool completely and wiggle the rotor to make sure it’s securely attached.\\nIf the bicycle spoke is curved at the end, use a pair of wire cutters to clip off the curve so it’s straight.\\nYou can find a rotor for a 12V DC motor at hobby shops that sell parts for remote-controlled airplanes and vehicles, as well as online.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connecting the Motor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole through a piece of plastic to fit the rotor end of the motor.\", \"描述\": \"Place the end of the 12V DC motor with the small rod that the rotor fits onto against a sheet of plastic at least ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) thick and trace the outline of it with a marker. Take a power drill and attach a bit that matches the size of the outline on the plastic. Drill through the plastic to create an opening that fits your motor.\\nThe motor needs to fit snugly into the piece of plastic to create a tighter seal.\\nYou can find thin squares of plastic at hardware stores, home improvement stores, and online.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Slide the rotor end of the motor into the slot and seal it with hot glue.\", \"描述\": \"Fit the motor into the opening you drilled in the plastic and use a glue gun to apply hot glue where the motor connects to the plastic. Apply pressure to the motor to hold it in place for about 10 seconds so the glue can harden enough to remain attached.\\nThe glue will also help keep water from getting onto the motor when the pump is working.\\nLook for hot glue and hot glue guns at craft supply stores, department stores, and online.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert the motor into the opening on the rotor to connect it.\", \"描述\": \"Slide the small rod sticking out of the rotor end of the motor into the opening on the rotor that’s connected to the bicycle spoke. Push them together or rotate the rotor to tighten it so they’re securely connected.\\nSome rotors may click or snap into place on the motor.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fit the impeller into the open branch of the tee socket and seal it with glue.\", \"描述\": \"Once the glue is dry, slide the end of the bicycle spoke with the impeller on it into the open branch of the tee socket. Apply hot glue to the top of the branch socket and press the plastic sheet with the motor attached to it against it. Hold it in place for about 10 seconds so it sticks. Allow the glue to dry for about 10 minutes.\\nKeep pressure on the motor and the tee joint so the glue creates a tight seal.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect the red and black wires on the motor to a 12V battery.\", \"描述\": \"Locate the 2 wires on the back of your 12V DC motor. Connect the red wire to the positive terminal on a 12V battery, which will have a plus sign (+) on it. Then, connect the black wire to the negative terminal, which will have a minus symbol (-) on it. The motor will start turning the impeller blade in the PVC pipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the end of the pipe across from the motor into water to pump it.\", \"描述\": \"Once the pump has power from the battery, stick the end of the PVC pipe with the impeller blade into a body of water. The pressure created by the blade will pull the water out and push it through the run opening of the tee socket. Hold the pump in the water for as long as you want to pump it out.\\nUse a small swimming pool or a bucket of water to test out your pump.\\nDo not submerge the motor.\\nDisconnect the black wire first, then the red wire to deactivate the pump.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Soldering irons are extremely hot. Be careful not to burn yourself when you’re using it and be sure not to place it down on a flammable surface while it’s still hot.\\n\", \"Always connect the positive wire first, then the negative. When you’re disconnecting them, always remove the negative wire, then the positive.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,617 |
How to Build a Waterfall
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1. Planning the Waterfall
1-1. Choose a location.
You can install a waterfall on a natural slope or hill, or you can dig out the slope yourself. Alternately, if the soil or foundation you're digging into is difficult to excavate, consider building the stream above ground using a combination of rocks and gravel as your base.
How much of a slope will you need? The absolute minimum slope you need is a 2 inch (5cm) drop for every 10 feet (3m) of stream. Of course, the steeper the slope, the faster the water runs and the louder the sound of the waterfall.
1-2. Think about placing your waterfall near an electrical source.
You want your lower basin, which sends water back up to the top of the waterfall, to be located near an electrical source so that you don't have to string an unsightly extension cord across your otherwise pristine garden.
1-3. Plan the size of your stream.
Knowing just how much water passes through your stream and waterfalls will help you determine how large your upper pool and lower basin need to be. (You don't want your garden overflowing when you turn the pump off.) Here's how do to that:
First, estimate the amount of water that passes through a linear foot of your stream. If your stream is relatively small — say it's about 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) wide and 2 to 3 inches deep — estimate about 5 gallons (18.9 L) of water per linear foot. Add to or subtract from that estimate depending on the size and depth of your proposed stream.
Next, measure the total stream capacity. Measure out how many linear feet your entire stream takes up. Now, simply make sure that either your upper pool or lower basin holds more than the total stream capacity. So if your stream capacity is 100 gallons (378.5 L), a 50 gallon (189.3 L) basin and a 200 gallon (757.1 L) pool will easily accommodate the stream.
1-4. Get your boulders, rocks, and gravel.
Generally, waterfalls contain three different sizes of stone: boulders, or larger stones, which frame the waterfall(s); rocks, or medium-sized stone, which serve as the connecting stones; and gravel, which fills in the bottom of the stream and in between cracks and crevasses.
Visit a "rock," "quarry," or "gravel and stone" dealer in person to get a feel for what kinds of stones your waterfall might enjoy. This is a much more reliable way of getting exactly what you want, as opposed to merely ordering a kit and hoping that the stones are ones that will look good in your backyard.
Here's what you can expect to order when it comes time to buying stones for your waterfall:
1.5 - 2 tons of large (12 - 24 inches) boulders for upper pool and lower basin, plus 2 - 6 tons extra for 10 feet (3.0 m) portions of stream that are above ground
.75 ton of medium (6 - 24 inches) rocks per 10 feet (3.0 m) of stream
.5 ton of small (.5 - 2 inches) gravel per 10 feet (3.0 m) of stream, plus 1 - 2 tons for the upper pool and lower basin each
2. Setting up the Basics
2-1. Prepare for any digging you may need to do by outlining the waterfall placement with spray paint and calling the relevant utility authority.
Spray-painting the outline of your stream — and any waterfalls — will help greatly when it comes time to dig. Calling 811 and making sure your excavation won't damage any water or gas mains is a must.
2-2. Start excavating your foundation if you need to.
Dig out any part of your stream that'll be below ground. Next, dig out a large enough area for your lower sump basin, making sure to leave space for surrounding gravel and stone. Finally, place medium-sized rocks and larger boulders around the perimeter of the stream to begin to hem in the stream.
2-3. Measure out and cut both underlayment and rubber liner.
Starting with underlayment and then finishing with the liner, stretch them over the entire distance of the waterfall, into the lower basin, and across pond (if there is one). Place some of the rocks on the membrane plastic to hold it in place, or use poly rock panels in sheets to save time.
When placing the underlayment and liner, be sure to leave slack at the bottom of each waterfall. Placing rocks and boulders onto these areas can stretch out the liners, causing rips and piercings if there's not enough slack.
2-4. Set up your lower basin.
Drill holes into your sump basin if it doesn't already come with them. (See below for more instructions.) Place your sump basin into the excavated hole at the bottom of the waterfall, above the underlayment and liner. Insert the pump to the sump basin, connect the water line, and make sure the hose extends all the way up to the upper pool. Once the basin is set up, secure in place by adding layers of small - medium size stone (not gravel) around the basin. Attach the lid of the sump basin.
Some sump basins will come already perforated, but many will not. Basins need holes to allow the water to come in. If you need to perforate the basin yourself, the job isn't difficult. Starting from the bottom, drill a hole into the side of the basin using a 2 inch bit. Moving around the side, drill a hole every 4 inches. After you've drilled around once, move up an inch or two and continue drilling another revolution.
When the bottom third of the basin is perforated, graduate to a 1 inch bit for the middle third section, and finally a 3/8 inch bit for the top third.
3. Crafting Individual Waterfalls
3-1. Start from the bottom up, placing larger boulders first.
Always start from lower elevation and work your way up to higher elevation when placing the first rocks. A good bet is to start off with your largest boulders in place so that they give context and contrast. Backfill any soil beneath large boulders as needed, paying particular attention to boulders perched on elevation.
Placing a larger character boulder behind a the actual beginning of the waterfall itself is a great way to build dimension in your waterfall. Character boulders to the sides of the waterfall work great as well.
3-2. Use larger stones near each waterfall if possible.
In nature's streams, especially near waterfalls, smaller stones and pebbles tend to get swept away down current. That's why larger stones look more natural close to waterfalls. Stick with a good combination of medium and larger stones for a more natural look if you feel like your waterfall looks artificial.
3-3. Periodically step back from your waterfall and look at the piece from a different angle.
In the moment, placing stones gives you a great idea of how things will look up close. What it doesn't do is give you a perspective of how things look from afar. Periodically take a steps back from stone placement and decide whether you like the arrangement of stones where they are. You may place a single stone or boulder four or five times before you're happy with where it's placed.
3-4. Place the spillway rocks carefully.
Slate makes for an excellent spill stone. Don't be afraid to use smaller stones or even small pebbles to create the base for your spillway. Here are some other things to keep in mind when building spillways:
If you're having trouble keeping your spillway stone in place, sometimes a larger stone on top of it will anchor it in place while you build its base.
Always measure the slope of your spillway with a level. This is important for two big reasons. First, going front to back, you'll want your spillway stone to be either level or sloped slightly downward; if it's sloped upward, water isn't going to travel down it nicely. Second, going side to side, make sure your spillway stone is level; this will ensure that the water travels over the entire surface evenly and doesn't pool on one side.
Small cobblestones or rocks jutting out from beneath spillways can give accent to an otherwise uniform waterfall.
4. Putting it All Together
4-1. Use mortar to stabilize any larger stones.
If you're dealing with a particular large group of stones on a bigger waterfall, don't be afraid to mortar them together into place. Mortaring larger stones will help stabilize them and ensure that none of them will tip over should the landscape shift slightly.
4-2. Force smaller stones and gravel beneath all sides and spillways to keep water from seeping through.
This also gives the waterfall a more natural look, shielding eyes from unsightly liner material.
4-3. Foam in between any small cracks and crevasses using a specially-made dark foam sealant.
Foam sealant works best on cool and damp stone surfaces, so mist your stream and waterfall if necessary beforehand. Start spraying only a little at a time as you begin; the foam may expand more than you anticipate, and once it's applied, it's harder to remove en masse.
Although other foam sealants can be used in place of specially-made waterfall sealants, they do contain toxic chemicals that are harmful to fish. So if you're planning on introducing fish into your pond, be sure to use one that's specifically designed for use alongside fish.
Give the foam at least 30 minutes, and up to an hour, to dry completely. If you're ready to, you can finish foaming and start your waterfall easily in the same day.
Consider sprinkling neutral-colored gravel or sediment on top of the drying foam. This will disguise the black foam and cause it to blend into the surroundings more.
When foaming, wear gloves and be sure to wear something that wouldn't mind throwing away. If you accidentally get foam onto a boulder, you can easily wait for it to dry and then scrape it off.
4-4. Install a bacteria tank for any fish you may want to keep in your pond (optional).
If you decide to have Koi in your pond, this is a good time to install a bacteria tank to help keep the Koi alive.
4-5. Layer gravel carefully across the bottom of any exposed surfaces of the liner.
4-6. Turn on the garden hose and spray down the entire area of your stream until the water level in the bottom basin is full.
4-7. Turn on the power for the pump and check that the water is flowing correctly.
When the water begins running clear, move the pump over to the start of the waterfall and turn off the water from the garden hose. Make the pump less conspicuous by covering it with gravel or burying it in foliage.
4-8. Check for incorrect water flow.
Your waterfall should now begin flowing without the help of a garden hose. Check to make sure that the liner levels are all correct and that any splashing is contained by rocks.
4-9. Finish off by trimming away any excess liner.
Add aquatic or semi-aquatic plants to any bogs in your stream, and consider stocking your pond with fish. If you'd like, add drama with submersible lighting or outdoor lighting.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:15",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning the Waterfall\\n1-1. Choose a location.\\nYou can install a waterfall on a natural slope or hill, or you can dig out the slope yourself. Alternately, if the soil or foundation you're digging into is difficult to excavate, consider building the stream above ground using a combination of rocks and gravel as your base.\\nHow much of a slope will you need? The absolute minimum slope you need is a 2 inch (5cm) drop for every 10 feet (3m) of stream. Of course, the steeper the slope, the faster the water runs and the louder the sound of the waterfall.\\n1-2. Think about placing your waterfall near an electrical source.\\nYou want your lower basin, which sends water back up to the top of the waterfall, to be located near an electrical source so that you don't have to string an unsightly extension cord across your otherwise pristine garden.\\n1-3. Plan the size of your stream.\\nKnowing just how much water passes through your stream and waterfalls will help you determine how large your upper pool and lower basin need to be. (You don't want your garden overflowing when you turn the pump off.) Here's how do to that:\\nFirst, estimate the amount of water that passes through a linear foot of your stream. If your stream is relatively small — say it's about 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) wide and 2 to 3 inches deep — estimate about 5 gallons (18.9 L) of water per linear foot. Add to or subtract from that estimate depending on the size and depth of your proposed stream.\\nNext, measure the total stream capacity. Measure out how many linear feet your entire stream takes up. Now, simply make sure that either your upper pool or lower basin holds more than the total stream capacity. So if your stream capacity is 100 gallons (378.5 L), a 50 gallon (189.3 L) basin and a 200 gallon (757.1 L) pool will easily accommodate the stream.\\n1-4. Get your boulders, rocks, and gravel.\\nGenerally, waterfalls contain three different sizes of stone: boulders, or larger stones, which frame the waterfall(s); rocks, or medium-sized stone, which serve as the connecting stones; and gravel, which fills in the bottom of the stream and in between cracks and crevasses.\\nVisit a \\\"rock,\\\" \\\"quarry,\\\" or \\\"gravel and stone\\\" dealer in person to get a feel for what kinds of stones your waterfall might enjoy. This is a much more reliable way of getting exactly what you want, as opposed to merely ordering a kit and hoping that the stones are ones that will look good in your backyard.\\nHere's what you can expect to order when it comes time to buying stones for your waterfall:\\n1.5 - 2 tons of large (12 - 24 inches) boulders for upper pool and lower basin, plus 2 - 6 tons extra for 10 feet (3.0 m) portions of stream that are above ground\\n.75 ton of medium (6 - 24 inches) rocks per 10 feet (3.0 m) of stream\\n.5 ton of small (.5 - 2 inches) gravel per 10 feet (3.0 m) of stream, plus 1 - 2 tons for the upper pool and lower basin each\\n2. Setting up the Basics\\n2-1. Prepare for any digging you may need to do by outlining the waterfall placement with spray paint and calling the relevant utility authority.\\nSpray-painting the outline of your stream — and any waterfalls — will help greatly when it comes time to dig. Calling 811 and making sure your excavation won't damage any water or gas mains is a must.\\n2-2. Start excavating your foundation if you need to.\\nDig out any part of your stream that'll be below ground. Next, dig out a large enough area for your lower sump basin, making sure to leave space for surrounding gravel and stone. Finally, place medium-sized rocks and larger boulders around the perimeter of the stream to begin to hem in the stream.\\n2-3. Measure out and cut both underlayment and rubber liner.\\nStarting with underlayment and then finishing with the liner, stretch them over the entire distance of the waterfall, into the lower basin, and across pond (if there is one). Place some of the rocks on the membrane plastic to hold it in place, or use poly rock panels in sheets to save time.\\nWhen placing the underlayment and liner, be sure to leave slack at the bottom of each waterfall. Placing rocks and boulders onto these areas can stretch out the liners, causing rips and piercings if there's not enough slack.\\n2-4. Set up your lower basin.\\nDrill holes into your sump basin if it doesn't already come with them. (See below for more instructions.) Place your sump basin into the excavated hole at the bottom of the waterfall, above the underlayment and liner. Insert the pump to the sump basin, connect the water line, and make sure the hose extends all the way up to the upper pool. Once the basin is set up, secure in place by adding layers of small - medium size stone (not gravel) around the basin. Attach the lid of the sump basin.\\nSome sump basins will come already perforated, but many will not. Basins need holes to allow the water to come in. If you need to perforate the basin yourself, the job isn't difficult. Starting from the bottom, drill a hole into the side of the basin using a 2 inch bit. Moving around the side, drill a hole every 4 inches. After you've drilled around once, move up an inch or two and continue drilling another revolution.\\nWhen the bottom third of the basin is perforated, graduate to a 1 inch bit for the middle third section, and finally a 3/8 inch bit for the top third.\\n3. Crafting Individual Waterfalls\\n3-1. Start from the bottom up, placing larger boulders first.\\nAlways start from lower elevation and work your way up to higher elevation when placing the first rocks. A good bet is to start off with your largest boulders in place so that they give context and contrast. Backfill any soil beneath large boulders as needed, paying particular attention to boulders perched on elevation.\\nPlacing a larger character boulder behind a the actual beginning of the waterfall itself is a great way to build dimension in your waterfall. Character boulders to the sides of the waterfall work great as well.\\n3-2. Use larger stones near each waterfall if possible.\\nIn nature's streams, especially near waterfalls, smaller stones and pebbles tend to get swept away down current. That's why larger stones look more natural close to waterfalls. Stick with a good combination of medium and larger stones for a more natural look if you feel like your waterfall looks artificial.\\n3-3. Periodically step back from your waterfall and look at the piece from a different angle.\\nIn the moment, placing stones gives you a great idea of how things will look up close. What it doesn't do is give you a perspective of how things look from afar. Periodically take a steps back from stone placement and decide whether you like the arrangement of stones where they are. You may place a single stone or boulder four or five times before you're happy with where it's placed.\\n3-4. Place the spillway rocks carefully.\\nSlate makes for an excellent spill stone. Don't be afraid to use smaller stones or even small pebbles to create the base for your spillway. Here are some other things to keep in mind when building spillways:\\nIf you're having trouble keeping your spillway stone in place, sometimes a larger stone on top of it will anchor it in place while you build its base.\\nAlways measure the slope of your spillway with a level. This is important for two big reasons. First, going front to back, you'll want your spillway stone to be either level or sloped slightly downward; if it's sloped upward, water isn't going to travel down it nicely. Second, going side to side, make sure your spillway stone is level; this will ensure that the water travels over the entire surface evenly and doesn't pool on one side.\\nSmall cobblestones or rocks jutting out from beneath spillways can give accent to an otherwise uniform waterfall.\\n4. Putting it All Together\\n4-1. Use mortar to stabilize any larger stones.\\nIf you're dealing with a particular large group of stones on a bigger waterfall, don't be afraid to mortar them together into place. Mortaring larger stones will help stabilize them and ensure that none of them will tip over should the landscape shift slightly.\\n4-2. Force smaller stones and gravel beneath all sides and spillways to keep water from seeping through.\\nThis also gives the waterfall a more natural look, shielding eyes from unsightly liner material.\\n4-3. Foam in between any small cracks and crevasses using a specially-made dark foam sealant.\\nFoam sealant works best on cool and damp stone surfaces, so mist your stream and waterfall if necessary beforehand. Start spraying only a little at a time as you begin; the foam may expand more than you anticipate, and once it's applied, it's harder to remove en masse.\\nAlthough other foam sealants can be used in place of specially-made waterfall sealants, they do contain toxic chemicals that are harmful to fish. So if you're planning on introducing fish into your pond, be sure to use one that's specifically designed for use alongside fish.\\nGive the foam at least 30 minutes, and up to an hour, to dry completely. If you're ready to, you can finish foaming and start your waterfall easily in the same day.\\nConsider sprinkling neutral-colored gravel or sediment on top of the drying foam. This will disguise the black foam and cause it to blend into the surroundings more.\\nWhen foaming, wear gloves and be sure to wear something that wouldn't mind throwing away. If you accidentally get foam onto a boulder, you can easily wait for it to dry and then scrape it off.\\n4-4. Install a bacteria tank for any fish you may want to keep in your pond (optional).\\nIf you decide to have Koi in your pond, this is a good time to install a bacteria tank to help keep the Koi alive.\\n4-5. Layer gravel carefully across the bottom of any exposed surfaces of the liner.\\n\\n4-6. Turn on the garden hose and spray down the entire area of your stream until the water level in the bottom basin is full.\\n\\n4-7. Turn on the power for the pump and check that the water is flowing correctly.\\nWhen the water begins running clear, move the pump over to the start of the waterfall and turn off the water from the garden hose. Make the pump less conspicuous by covering it with gravel or burying it in foliage.\\n4-8. Check for incorrect water flow.\\nYour waterfall should now begin flowing without the help of a garden hose. Check to make sure that the liner levels are all correct and that any splashing is contained by rocks.\\n4-9. Finish off by trimming away any excess liner.\\nAdd aquatic or semi-aquatic plants to any bogs in your stream, and consider stocking your pond with fish. If you'd like, add drama with submersible lighting or outdoor lighting.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A waterfall is the perfect accent for a backyard. The lush, calming noise of water hitting rocks begins to drown out the sound of noisy cars, transporting you away into a more serene setting. For the serious builder or the curious homeowner, making the waterfall is a lot of fun. All it takes is a little insight on creating your flowing waterfall itself, and you'll be ready to make your own.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the Waterfall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a location.\", \"描述\": \"You can install a waterfall on a natural slope or hill, or you can dig out the slope yourself. Alternately, if the soil or foundation you're digging into is difficult to excavate, consider building the stream above ground using a combination of rocks and gravel as your base.\\nHow much of a slope will you need? The absolute minimum slope you need is a 2 inch (5cm) drop for every 10 feet (3m) of stream. Of course, the steeper the slope, the faster the water runs and the louder the sound of the waterfall.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Think about placing your waterfall near an electrical source.\", \"描述\": \"You want your lower basin, which sends water back up to the top of the waterfall, to be located near an electrical source so that you don't have to string an unsightly extension cord across your otherwise pristine garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plan the size of your stream.\", \"描述\": \"Knowing just how much water passes through your stream and waterfalls will help you determine how large your upper pool and lower basin need to be. (You don't want your garden overflowing when you turn the pump off.) Here's how do to that:\\nFirst, estimate the amount of water that passes through a linear foot of your stream. If your stream is relatively small — say it's about 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) wide and 2 to 3 inches deep — estimate about 5 gallons (18.9 L) of water per linear foot. Add to or subtract from that estimate depending on the size and depth of your proposed stream.\\nNext, measure the total stream capacity. Measure out how many linear feet your entire stream takes up. Now, simply make sure that either your upper pool or lower basin holds more than the total stream capacity. So if your stream capacity is 100 gallons (378.5 L), a 50 gallon (189.3 L) basin and a 200 gallon (757.1 L) pool will easily accommodate the stream.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get your boulders, rocks, and gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Generally, waterfalls contain three different sizes of stone: boulders, or larger stones, which frame the waterfall(s); rocks, or medium-sized stone, which serve as the connecting stones; and gravel, which fills in the bottom of the stream and in between cracks and crevasses.\\nVisit a \\\"rock,\\\" \\\"quarry,\\\" or \\\"gravel and stone\\\" dealer in person to get a feel for what kinds of stones your waterfall might enjoy. This is a much more reliable way of getting exactly what you want, as opposed to merely ordering a kit and hoping that the stones are ones that will look good in your backyard.\\nHere's what you can expect to order when it comes time to buying stones for your waterfall:\\n1.5 - 2 tons of large (12 - 24 inches) boulders for upper pool and lower basin, plus 2 - 6 tons extra for 10 feet (3.0 m) portions of stream that are above ground\\n.75 ton of medium (6 - 24 inches) rocks per 10 feet (3.0 m) of stream\\n.5 ton of small (.5 - 2 inches) gravel per 10 feet (3.0 m) of stream, plus 1 - 2 tons for the upper pool and lower basin each\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Setting up the Basics\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare for any digging you may need to do by outlining the waterfall placement with spray paint and calling the relevant utility authority.\", \"描述\": \"Spray-painting the outline of your stream — and any waterfalls — will help greatly when it comes time to dig. Calling 811 and making sure your excavation won't damage any water or gas mains is a must.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start excavating your foundation if you need to.\", \"描述\": \"Dig out any part of your stream that'll be below ground. Next, dig out a large enough area for your lower sump basin, making sure to leave space for surrounding gravel and stone. Finally, place medium-sized rocks and larger boulders around the perimeter of the stream to begin to hem in the stream.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure out and cut both underlayment and rubber liner.\", \"描述\": \"Starting with underlayment and then finishing with the liner, stretch them over the entire distance of the waterfall, into the lower basin, and across pond (if there is one). Place some of the rocks on the membrane plastic to hold it in place, or use poly rock panels in sheets to save time.\\nWhen placing the underlayment and liner, be sure to leave slack at the bottom of each waterfall. Placing rocks and boulders onto these areas can stretch out the liners, causing rips and piercings if there's not enough slack.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set up your lower basin.\", \"描述\": \"Drill holes into your sump basin if it doesn't already come with them. (See below for more instructions.) Place your sump basin into the excavated hole at the bottom of the waterfall, above the underlayment and liner. Insert the pump to the sump basin, connect the water line, and make sure the hose extends all the way up to the upper pool. Once the basin is set up, secure in place by adding layers of small - medium size stone (not gravel) around the basin. Attach the lid of the sump basin.\\nSome sump basins will come already perforated, but many will not. Basins need holes to allow the water to come in. If you need to perforate the basin yourself, the job isn't difficult. Starting from the bottom, drill a hole into the side of the basin using a 2 inch bit. Moving around the side, drill a hole every 4 inches. After you've drilled around once, move up an inch or two and continue drilling another revolution.\\nWhen the bottom third of the basin is perforated, graduate to a 1 inch bit for the middle third section, and finally a 3/8 inch bit for the top third.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Crafting Individual Waterfalls\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start from the bottom up, placing larger boulders first.\", \"描述\": \"Always start from lower elevation and work your way up to higher elevation when placing the first rocks. A good bet is to start off with your largest boulders in place so that they give context and contrast. Backfill any soil beneath large boulders as needed, paying particular attention to boulders perched on elevation.\\nPlacing a larger character boulder behind a the actual beginning of the waterfall itself is a great way to build dimension in your waterfall. Character boulders to the sides of the waterfall work great as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use larger stones near each waterfall if possible.\", \"描述\": \"In nature's streams, especially near waterfalls, smaller stones and pebbles tend to get swept away down current. That's why larger stones look more natural close to waterfalls. Stick with a good combination of medium and larger stones for a more natural look if you feel like your waterfall looks artificial.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Periodically step back from your waterfall and look at the piece from a different angle.\", \"描述\": \"In the moment, placing stones gives you a great idea of how things will look up close. What it doesn't do is give you a perspective of how things look from afar. Periodically take a steps back from stone placement and decide whether you like the arrangement of stones where they are. You may place a single stone or boulder four or five times before you're happy with where it's placed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the spillway rocks carefully.\", \"描述\": \"Slate makes for an excellent spill stone. Don't be afraid to use smaller stones or even small pebbles to create the base for your spillway. Here are some other things to keep in mind when building spillways:\\nIf you're having trouble keeping your spillway stone in place, sometimes a larger stone on top of it will anchor it in place while you build its base.\\nAlways measure the slope of your spillway with a level. This is important for two big reasons. First, going front to back, you'll want your spillway stone to be either level or sloped slightly downward; if it's sloped upward, water isn't going to travel down it nicely. Second, going side to side, make sure your spillway stone is level; this will ensure that the water travels over the entire surface evenly and doesn't pool on one side.\\nSmall cobblestones or rocks jutting out from beneath spillways can give accent to an otherwise uniform waterfall.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Putting it All Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use mortar to stabilize any larger stones.\", \"描述\": \"If you're dealing with a particular large group of stones on a bigger waterfall, don't be afraid to mortar them together into place. Mortaring larger stones will help stabilize them and ensure that none of them will tip over should the landscape shift slightly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Force smaller stones and gravel beneath all sides and spillways to keep water from seeping through.\", \"描述\": \"This also gives the waterfall a more natural look, shielding eyes from unsightly liner material.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Foam in between any small cracks and crevasses using a specially-made dark foam sealant.\", \"描述\": \"Foam sealant works best on cool and damp stone surfaces, so mist your stream and waterfall if necessary beforehand. Start spraying only a little at a time as you begin; the foam may expand more than you anticipate, and once it's applied, it's harder to remove en masse.\\nAlthough other foam sealants can be used in place of specially-made waterfall sealants, they do contain toxic chemicals that are harmful to fish. So if you're planning on introducing fish into your pond, be sure to use one that's specifically designed for use alongside fish.\\nGive the foam at least 30 minutes, and up to an hour, to dry completely. If you're ready to, you can finish foaming and start your waterfall easily in the same day.\\nConsider sprinkling neutral-colored gravel or sediment on top of the drying foam. This will disguise the black foam and cause it to blend into the surroundings more.\\nWhen foaming, wear gloves and be sure to wear something that wouldn't mind throwing away. If you accidentally get foam onto a boulder, you can easily wait for it to dry and then scrape it off.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install a bacteria tank for any fish you may want to keep in your pond (optional).\", \"描述\": \"If you decide to have Koi in your pond, this is a good time to install a bacteria tank to help keep the Koi alive.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Layer gravel carefully across the bottom of any exposed surfaces of the liner.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Turn on the garden hose and spray down the entire area of your stream until the water level in the bottom basin is full.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Turn on the power for the pump and check that the water is flowing correctly.\", \"描述\": \"When the water begins running clear, move the pump over to the start of the waterfall and turn off the water from the garden hose. Make the pump less conspicuous by covering it with gravel or burying it in foliage.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Check for incorrect water flow.\", \"描述\": \"Your waterfall should now begin flowing without the help of a garden hose. Check to make sure that the liner levels are all correct and that any splashing is contained by rocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Finish off by trimming away any excess liner.\", \"描述\": \"Add aquatic or semi-aquatic plants to any bogs in your stream, and consider stocking your pond with fish. If you'd like, add drama with submersible lighting or outdoor lighting.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,618 |
How to Build a Wedding Arch
|
1. Preparing the Wood
1-1. Cut 4 posts so that each one is 80 inches (2.0 m) long.
These bigger pieces are going to serve as the legs of your arch. You can put them aside for now while you prepare the smaller pieces.
To cut the wood evenly make sure you support both sides of the piece by holding one side and placing the other on a flat surface. Using a handsaw is the easiest way to get smooth, straight lines.
You can alter the size of the legs to your preference.
1-2. Cut shorter pieces from the last two posts.
From each post you'll want to cut: one piece that’s 48 inches (1.2 m) with opposing 45 degree angles on either side, one piece that’s 12 inches (30 cm) with opposing 45 degree angles on either side, and a piece that’s 24 inches (61 cm) with straight angles on the sides.
1-3. Clean the pieces.
Some of the wooden pieces may have dust or sap on them. You'll want to scrape off any sap or other sticky material and wipe the pieces with a rag.
A putty knife is the perfect tool to scrape off any sap from the wood.
1-4. Sand the wood.
You can either sand by hand or by using an electric sander. But it's important to do this with even strokes to get rid of any rough patches or bumps in the wood. This is something that'll be in a lot of pictures, so you'll want it to look nice and smooth.
Medium-grit sandpaper is best for sanding wood.
1-5. Stain the wood.
If you aren't happy with the appearance of the wood, you can always stain them. Apply a wiping motion, using a paint sponge, rather than a brushing motion. Purchase a stain from your local hardware store and paint the wooden pieces on a large piece of cloth.
Be sure to follow any instructions that come with the stain.
This is best to do outside.
2. Assembling the Pieces
2-1. Mark 2 inches (5.1 cm) from each end of the pieces that are 48 inches (1.2 m) long.
Mark the pieces with a pencil, so they won’t show once your arch is assembled. Once you’ve marked at 2 inches (5.1 cm) from either end, cut at a straight angle.
2-2. Assemble the top frame using the smaller pieces.
Line up the pieces that are 24 inches (61 cm) to where the markings are on the pieces that are 48 inches (1.2 m). The pieces should fit perfectly in those spots.
Use a drill and wooden nails to secure these pieces in place. Once you drill these pieces into place you should have a rectangular top frame that will be the top of your arch.
2-3. Attach the legs to each corner of the top frame.
Now that you have the top of your arch done, it's time to give it that beautiful height. Place one of the longer pieces that are 80 inches (2.0 m) long perpendicular to each corner of the top frame and drill these pieces into place using the wooden screws. Make sure they're nice and secure.
You'll most likely need a few more people to do this part.
You may need to attach smaller pieces of wood in between the legs (at the very bottom, this part won't be noticeable) to give the legs more support if you feel that they aren't strong enough on their own.
2-4. Add on the diagonal pieces.
These are the pieces that are 12 inches (30 cm) long with angled cuts on the sides. At this point you can position them right under either side of the top of the frame and drill them securely into the legs of the arch.
3. Decorating Your Arch
3-1. Pick cloth and/or flowers.
This is where your creativity comes in! You may want to coordinate with the season or the theme of the wedding when choosing any specific flowers or items to put onto your arch.
Make sure the decoration of the arch doesn't clash with other decorations for the wedding.
3-2. Drape the fabric around the arch.
You can either drape it along either side of the arch. If you don’t like that method, you can also gently twirl the fabric up and around each leg.
3-3. Attach the flowers to the arch.
Using either a hot glue gun or a staple gun, attach the flowers and other decorative materials that you think will look great. You'll want to attach them so that they're evenly spread out in the arch in the pattern that you like.
Be sure not to leave any huge gaps of the arch completely uncovered.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:15",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing the Wood\\n1-1. Cut 4 posts so that each one is 80 inches (2.0 m) long.\\nThese bigger pieces are going to serve as the legs of your arch. You can put them aside for now while you prepare the smaller pieces.\\nTo cut the wood evenly make sure you support both sides of the piece by holding one side and placing the other on a flat surface. Using a handsaw is the easiest way to get smooth, straight lines.\\nYou can alter the size of the legs to your preference.\\n1-2. Cut shorter pieces from the last two posts.\\nFrom each post you'll want to cut: one piece that’s 48 inches (1.2 m) with opposing 45 degree angles on either side, one piece that’s 12 inches (30 cm) with opposing 45 degree angles on either side, and a piece that’s 24 inches (61 cm) with straight angles on the sides.\\n1-3. Clean the pieces.\\nSome of the wooden pieces may have dust or sap on them. You'll want to scrape off any sap or other sticky material and wipe the pieces with a rag.\\nA putty knife is the perfect tool to scrape off any sap from the wood.\\n1-4. Sand the wood.\\nYou can either sand by hand or by using an electric sander. But it's important to do this with even strokes to get rid of any rough patches or bumps in the wood. This is something that'll be in a lot of pictures, so you'll want it to look nice and smooth.\\nMedium-grit sandpaper is best for sanding wood.\\n1-5. Stain the wood.\\nIf you aren't happy with the appearance of the wood, you can always stain them. Apply a wiping motion, using a paint sponge, rather than a brushing motion. Purchase a stain from your local hardware store and paint the wooden pieces on a large piece of cloth.\\nBe sure to follow any instructions that come with the stain.\\nThis is best to do outside.\\n2. Assembling the Pieces\\n2-1. Mark 2 inches (5.1 cm) from each end of the pieces that are 48 inches (1.2 m) long.\\nMark the pieces with a pencil, so they won’t show once your arch is assembled. Once you’ve marked at 2 inches (5.1 cm) from either end, cut at a straight angle.\\n2-2. Assemble the top frame using the smaller pieces.\\nLine up the pieces that are 24 inches (61 cm) to where the markings are on the pieces that are 48 inches (1.2 m). The pieces should fit perfectly in those spots.\\nUse a drill and wooden nails to secure these pieces in place. Once you drill these pieces into place you should have a rectangular top frame that will be the top of your arch.\\n2-3. Attach the legs to each corner of the top frame.\\nNow that you have the top of your arch done, it's time to give it that beautiful height. Place one of the longer pieces that are 80 inches (2.0 m) long perpendicular to each corner of the top frame and drill these pieces into place using the wooden screws. Make sure they're nice and secure.\\nYou'll most likely need a few more people to do this part.\\nYou may need to attach smaller pieces of wood in between the legs (at the very bottom, this part won't be noticeable) to give the legs more support if you feel that they aren't strong enough on their own.\\n2-4. Add on the diagonal pieces.\\nThese are the pieces that are 12 inches (30 cm) long with angled cuts on the sides. At this point you can position them right under either side of the top of the frame and drill them securely into the legs of the arch.\\n3. Decorating Your Arch\\n3-1. Pick cloth and/or flowers.\\nThis is where your creativity comes in! You may want to coordinate with the season or the theme of the wedding when choosing any specific flowers or items to put onto your arch.\\nMake sure the decoration of the arch doesn't clash with other decorations for the wedding.\\n3-2. Drape the fabric around the arch.\\nYou can either drape it along either side of the arch. If you don’t like that method, you can also gently twirl the fabric up and around each leg.\\n3-3. Attach the flowers to the arch.\\nUsing either a hot glue gun or a staple gun, attach the flowers and other decorative materials that you think will look great. You'll want to attach them so that they're evenly spread out in the arch in the pattern that you like.\\nBe sure not to leave any huge gaps of the arch completely uncovered.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Wedding arches are easily one of the most photographed and appreciated parts of a wedding. They add a level of elegance and can be used where the couple is getting married, as a photo booth, surrounding a gift table, and in other creative ways. While purchasing or renting an arch is one way to go, building your own can be a less expensive and more rewarding approach to take.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Wood\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 4 posts so that each one is 80 inches (2.0 m) long.\", \"描述\": \"These bigger pieces are going to serve as the legs of your arch. You can put them aside for now while you prepare the smaller pieces.\\nTo cut the wood evenly make sure you support both sides of the piece by holding one side and placing the other on a flat surface. Using a handsaw is the easiest way to get smooth, straight lines.\\nYou can alter the size of the legs to your preference.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut shorter pieces from the last two posts.\", \"描述\": \"From each post you'll want to cut: one piece that’s 48 inches (1.2 m) with opposing 45 degree angles on either side, one piece that’s 12 inches (30 cm) with opposing 45 degree angles on either side, and a piece that’s 24 inches (61 cm) with straight angles on the sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clean the pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Some of the wooden pieces may have dust or sap on them. You'll want to scrape off any sap or other sticky material and wipe the pieces with a rag.\\nA putty knife is the perfect tool to scrape off any sap from the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Sand the wood.\", \"描述\": \"You can either sand by hand or by using an electric sander. But it's important to do this with even strokes to get rid of any rough patches or bumps in the wood. This is something that'll be in a lot of pictures, so you'll want it to look nice and smooth.\\nMedium-grit sandpaper is best for sanding wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Stain the wood.\", \"描述\": \"If you aren't happy with the appearance of the wood, you can always stain them. Apply a wiping motion, using a paint sponge, rather than a brushing motion. Purchase a stain from your local hardware store and paint the wooden pieces on a large piece of cloth.\\nBe sure to follow any instructions that come with the stain.\\nThis is best to do outside.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark 2 inches (5.1 cm) from each end of the pieces that are 48 inches (1.2 m) long.\", \"描述\": \"Mark the pieces with a pencil, so they won’t show once your arch is assembled. Once you’ve marked at 2 inches (5.1 cm) from either end, cut at a straight angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assemble the top frame using the smaller pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Line up the pieces that are 24 inches (61 cm) to where the markings are on the pieces that are 48 inches (1.2 m). The pieces should fit perfectly in those spots.\\nUse a drill and wooden nails to secure these pieces in place. Once you drill these pieces into place you should have a rectangular top frame that will be the top of your arch.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the legs to each corner of the top frame.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have the top of your arch done, it's time to give it that beautiful height. Place one of the longer pieces that are 80 inches (2.0 m) long perpendicular to each corner of the top frame and drill these pieces into place using the wooden screws. Make sure they're nice and secure.\\nYou'll most likely need a few more people to do this part.\\nYou may need to attach smaller pieces of wood in between the legs (at the very bottom, this part won't be noticeable) to give the legs more support if you feel that they aren't strong enough on their own.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add on the diagonal pieces.\", \"描述\": \"These are the pieces that are 12 inches (30 cm) long with angled cuts on the sides. At this point you can position them right under either side of the top of the frame and drill them securely into the legs of the arch.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decorating Your Arch\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick cloth and/or flowers.\", \"描述\": \"This is where your creativity comes in! You may want to coordinate with the season or the theme of the wedding when choosing any specific flowers or items to put onto your arch.\\nMake sure the decoration of the arch doesn't clash with other decorations for the wedding.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drape the fabric around the arch.\", \"描述\": \"You can either drape it along either side of the arch. If you don’t like that method, you can also gently twirl the fabric up and around each leg.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the flowers to the arch.\", \"描述\": \"Using either a hot glue gun or a staple gun, attach the flowers and other decorative materials that you think will look great. You'll want to attach them so that they're evenly spread out in the arch in the pattern that you like.\\nBe sure not to leave any huge gaps of the arch completely uncovered.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
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